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RcBum
04-30-2001, 09:27 PM
Does anyone have any painting tips to paint a body with twin racing stripes???

Thanks

PS: please reply asap because i want to start soon.

R/C Homie
04-30-2001, 10:10 PM
well not really just take ur time my mistakes where not takin my time and tryin to do all the car in one coat make sure to spray just a tiny bit to lay a seal so no paint runs under the masks then do another coat or 2 thats all u need to know and u should be ok cya be=====> :cool:

Cosmo
04-30-2001, 10:32 PM
Well, you can take some masking tape (I prefer 3M) and if it is the width you want, then just put it on the body and go. If it is not the width you want, you can take a piece of glass and put the tape on it. Using a metal straight edge and a sharp xacto, cut the tape to the width you want. Peel it up carefully from the glass, and put it on your body. If you have any more questions, feel free to e-mail me at upfromtheskies@aol.com and I'll be glad to help.

digex
05-01-2001, 12:55 AM
In the new Car Action they show a cutting tool that makes parallell(spelling? I hate that word) cuts perfectly. I forgot it's name but I'm sure someone else here will think of it.

ProjectTwin
05-01-2001, 06:18 AM
You can go to Wal-Mart and get a 1" wide roll of 3M blue masking tape. On the outside of the body, find centers (left to right) of the hood, nose of the car, and the rear end/trunk area. You can use a Sharpie to draw a line down the middle of the car. (be sure it has the protective film!! I've done the sharpie thing on bodies without film and it's left stains in the lexan...they wouldn't budge!)

Measure 1/4" from either side of your centerline. Do this in several places along the car. Then you can use your straightedge to connect the dots. Come back with the tape and put a stripe along the inside of the body, following the last two lines you made. You should be able to see the center line, it should't be covered by tape. Burnish the tape down so paint doesn't seep under it.

Then you can shoot your main color, say..Blue. Spray light coats so the laquer doesn't eat the tape's adhesive. Once you've got a good even coat of your main color, you can either remove the masking tape and back the color with white and make the stripes white at the same time, or leave the tape and back your main color, let the backing coat dry, then peel the tape and shoot your color for the stripes.

Hope I didn't confuse you.

Jason

shifter125
05-01-2001, 09:54 PM
ProjectTwin,

Great note...you mention burnishing the tape...please elaborate. Is there a tool for this or is it simpler than that?

Thanks.

MJ
05-01-2001, 10:06 PM
You can use your fingernail or even the back of a spoon to burnish the tape. The main thing is to get the edges of the tape to seal so paint does not bleed underneath.

RcBum
05-01-2001, 11:53 PM
This may be a stupid thing to ask but oh well.

What exactly does 3M mean???

Nairb
05-02-2001, 01:13 AM
3M is a brand. More accurately, a Lab that invents and refines common things like tape, sandpaper, post-its, etc... His point is that you should buy high-quality tape.

ProjectTwin
05-02-2001, 04:56 AM
3M orginally stood for Minesota Mining and Manufacturing Company (3M). They were mining for material to make sandpaper and grinding wheels!

Now they're pretty diverse. I got certified through 3M for Fiber-optic cable fabrication/splicing and repair (fusion splicing).

In my opinion, the 3M blue tape is the best (affordable, readily available) tape out. You can buy the other stuff labled specifically for hobby use, but this stuff rocks! It never leaves residue and always seals well along the edges.


for burnishing...

You can get a tool from your LHS to do burnishing. It's called a "Bunishing Tool" (go figure!!). Look in the Woodland Scenics section. They have lots of dry transfer decals for trains and scenery, and there's a dedicated tool they sell to work with. You can use anything from a popscicle stick to thumbnails to an old body post...just be sure to use something that's not going to gouge the tape or scratch your new body.

Jason

ammoace
05-03-2001, 01:21 AM
I was wondering what type of paint people are using in thier airbrushes. Also what brand do you suggest?
AMMOACE

ProjectTwin
05-03-2001, 02:15 AM
Depends..a budy of mine swears by Parmas acrylics. He loves them. I always paint from the 3oz. spray cans. I used the Pactra stuff once..trying to learn how to set the airbrush up right..too bad I left it in the states..

Jason

illbreakit
05-03-2001, 03:06 AM
Parama Faskolor. These are exccellent paints. They spray really easy and cleanup/colour change is a breze, just run under water till clean. The Faschange colours leave a really neat effect, and you can back them with any base colour so at one angle it is the base colour, the next angle it is the Faschange colour. Works really well for ghost flames. Oh, the Faschange coat should be really thin, too thick and the base coat won't change it very much- 2-3 fog coats works really well. Just pick up a desk blotter (a clear sheet of plastic used to cover desktop calenders) availible at office supply stores, to practice w/different colours and thickness of coats. Hope you like em cause I'm hooked on em.
Happy painting

StephenB
05-03-2001, 11:18 AM
Faskolor paints are very nice. They don't run or bleed under maskings if you spray a light dusting coat on first. Plus their colors are awesome--very rich and deep for an acrylic paint.

HauntedMyst
05-04-2001, 10:15 AM
Read this! http://www.balakracing.com/body_painting.htm

HauntedMyst
05-04-2001, 10:18 AM
Project,
BTW, the best burnishing tool I've found I swiped from my wifes nail polish kit. It's a thing for pushing back cuticles and really does a nice job of pushing down tape in tight areas.

hslillie
05-04-2001, 10:54 AM
Hey that's cool I always wondered what 3M was an acronym for - thanks

ProjectTwin
05-04-2001, 08:45 PM
LOL, R/C can be educational, eh?

:)

Jason

bluesy
05-05-2001, 10:06 AM
Parma Fast Colors are the ones to try. I even got a great paint job using some flame masks and brushing it on. Can't pack an airbrush while I travel for my job. One thing about Parma colors....Dont spray window tint on after the paint job is finished...it leaks under the main colors and screws up all the hard work. LIVE and LEARN. :eek: :confused:

ProjectTwin
05-05-2001, 10:57 AM
bluesy,
I'm not sure if it would help, but Parma has a sealer for the Acrylics that might prevent that..

Jason

Obi112
05-05-2001, 03:28 PM
Does anyone know where I can buy the Tamiya Airbrush System from?

ammoace
05-05-2001, 11:38 PM
HauntedMyst,
We use almost the same airbrush, I have the A4308. The only differance that I can tell is the amount of goodies they come with. Yours has more tips and things. I'm greatful for the information on your site. I wasn't sure if I should get a moisture filter or not. Now I am going to get one for sure.
Anyone,
I want to paint mud splatters on the side of my truck. Would the splatter tip work for this? By name it seems that it should. Just to let you know I am painting a Pro-Line Ford Excursion body for my T-Maxx. I was going to try "Liquid Mask" instead of masking tape. Has anyone else tried this stuff? If so how well does it work and are there any tips you could pass on to the rest of us?
Thanks,
AMMOACE

ProjectTwin
05-06-2001, 02:58 AM
Ammoace,

I did a lot of 1/24 static model in my time..my first diorama was a Jeep CJ rockcrawler. I twisted up the suspension and all, painted the body, mounted it to teh chassis and started getting it "muddy"

I thinned out the mixture of paint and gave the entire body a "wash" with the thinned paint. The splatter effect came with a bit thicker paint, I dipped the brush into the paint, held the brush with the tip up, and gave the handle a gentle "flip" with the tip of my finger (just like you'd flip a piece of dirt off your table..)

You can actually control it, by the direction and how hard you smack the brush. I managed to pull off an effect so realistic people asked, "How'd you get the mud on there?"

I had a couple of bodies done by Torn Creations up in NJ, he used the same effect on the front of a couple of Durango bodies for me, but did it with black and grey to produce a kind of granite look. If you'd like to see those bods, go to my homepage..click on the house Icon, and go to reviews, then Bodies and Acessories. Then you should see the Torn Creations link.

It's easy to do, and would probably be a bigger hassle to pull off with an airbrush.

Jason

WhoKnowsWho
05-06-2001, 03:41 AM
Hey HauntedMyst, nice page, maybe after I have a chance to read it all, I will actually paint two of my bodies that I keep on putting off! :)

ammoace
05-06-2001, 09:41 PM
ProjectTwin,
I love the granite job on the Durango! :cool: You better be carefull though, people might just get the impression that you know what you are talking about. :D (That was sarcasim, a joke.) ;) I think it was you that was helping me with my T-Naxx after I installed the MIP Stinger kit. I just wanted to let you know that the reason it wouldn't run but a few seconds was the there was a small piece of fuel tubing that had broken off inside the pipe and was blocking the exhaust. This caused the pressure to go to the tank instead. Which inturn was causing the engine to be VERY rich. But your advise about tiping the truck and letting the fuel drain out does help it start faster.
Thanks again for your very good insight and advise. :)
Am I correct that I should do the splatter trick with the brush before the main color goes on?
AMMOACE

ProjectTwin
05-06-2001, 11:00 PM
Ammoace,

If the fuel line is giving you headaches, get yourself a 10-32 pressure tap and some JB Weld or JB Quick (Sets in 4 minutes). Install the pressure tap and slap som JB to it. Let the JB set and voila! Just be sure to get all the oil off the pipe, or the JB will never stick. It also helps to scuff the area the JB will attach to, to give it a better tooth.

Jason