Racing Numbers

[Cragar]

I'm wanting to get into racing and was wandering how to go about getting a number for my truck. Is this number assigned by your local track or can you just go buy any number you desire and put it on?

[Obi112]

Numbers are usually just for show (at local tracks). They use a transponder system that automatically counts the number of laps you complete, so there is no need to have numbers on the cars. If you still want some, go to your LHS and browse through their decals.

[XXXER]

I know that my local track, only uses Transponders for larger races, and yes, they ARE needed, so that the announcer can keep track, of who is where, and whatnot. Your number will be assigned to you when you sign up to race. They usually have a pretty big stock pile of stickers, and your car requires 3, one on the front windshield of your car, and one on each side.

If you have any more questions, just ask.

[Cragar]

Thanks XXXer. I kind of thought they would be assigned. I suppose this means I need to choose one specific track for racing until I can get another body. :rolleyes: That's fine. I just wish the closest track to me had races on Saturday rather than Sunday. :(

I have an electric Stampede that I'm hopping up for racing. Is there a class for this truck? I'm sure it depends on the track and whether or not there are enough trucks to justify a class, but how often have you seen electric Stampedes racing? Just wandering.

[XXXER]

Cragar, firstly, the numbers that are assigned you are just stickers. Nothing special, you can put more on, or take them off with ease, you do not need a body for each track, hehe.

Sure, i see Stampedes and Rustlers a lot. Mainly, they are pretty much only raced in Novice class, or, if your track has one, a Monster Truck class.

Run a stock motor, because that is usual, for novice class, so get one of those, P2K motors, and MVP's are excellent choices.

[JoeTheShmoe]

the numbers at my local track are .25 cents for 3 (front window, and 2 side windows...) They are assigned to you from how well you did in the previous race, and fro the first quilifyer i guess it is just when your name gets put in the computer.. We use transponders too, the numbers are for the announcers sake.

[Cragar]

That's cool. It's just that when I typically see a pic of a race truck, it usually has one of those Pro-Line or other name brand numbered stickers on them. You can even purchase them thru Pro-Line for like $10.00 for three. I will check around at my local tracks for regulations concerning the numbers. I'm sure I'm getting concerned over nothing.

The Stampede I have has a 20 turn Stinger motor and an MC230CR Futaba ESC which is not suppose to be paired up with anything larger than a 20 turn motor (and, yes, I understand motor lingo....I work for a motor company). However, I'm not exactly sure what the turn count of the P2K is. From what I see in the ads, it appears to be designed for torque which leads me to believe it has a larger wire diameter with fewer number of turns. For now, I think the Stinger is plenty fast. Once I get better at racing and have the need for speed, I will upgrade my motor/ESC combo. If I'm mistaken and you think the Stinger doesn't have what it takes, please let me know. I don't believe P2Ks are too expensive (somewhere around the $30 - $50 range?).

Thanks for the info. XXXer (and the little nudge concerning the stickers....I get excited about the little things sometimes). :D

[Nairb]

Your Futaba ESC will do great, but be sure to disable reverse for racing (it's illegal to use reverse in a race). I'll let you in on a little secret...any new stock motor will kick the pants off that cheapo stinger motor, even though they are 27 turn singles. Stock motors are big business, and lots of money is spent trying to maximize their performance. You should get that stinger replaced with a good stock motor as soon as you can.

[Nairb]

One more thing. it's illegal for a stock motor to be priced at more than $40. So you can count on it costing less than $40 to get a better motor than you currently have.

[XXXER]

Actually, the reason for the increase in torque, is because of the design of the poles, where the wires wrap around the motor. All ROAR/NORCCA stock motors must be 27 turn singles, of 22AWG wire. The lamination designs are the reason for the torque :)

[Cragar]

Yeah , I noticed in one of my catalogs this morning prior to logging on that the P2K is a 27 turn motor. I already knew about disabling the reverse to abide by R.O.A.R. regulations, but thanks anyway. I also see how the cost is only about $35.00. That's cool. Not a big deal.

I agree that the Stinger is a high production motor and a motor in the likes of a P2K has had much more engineering time involved. So I will have to succumb to the pressure here and upgrade as soon as possible.

I'm taking my daughters to a local race tonight just to get an idea of how the drivers and pit crews handle things. I'm sure most of these guys/gals will be available and courteous enough to answer any questions I may have.

Thanks for the info, again, guys. I think sometimes I learn more from this BBS than I do from RCCA (but don't let the editors know that). Doh! :eek: