Associated RC10T3 v2.0

[k_sw31]

Make sure that the pic is under 61 kb first of all...

Then scroll down below the text box where it says "attach image" and hit the choose file button. :)

[litegide]

OK, I'll give it a try...

[k_sw31]

Now lets see a T3!

[pudder]

I won't have any pictures for a while now. There is racing today, and next sunday, then I have about a month break and offroad starts June 1 Yay!

I'm going to be doing a shock and diff rebuild on my T3 though, it needs it, so I guess I won't have pics for quite some time then. Or maybe not... I might get the rebuilds next weekend...

...stupid rant...

[litegide]

T3 PICTURE NO PROBLEM.

[litegide]

All is going pretty well with the t3 exception of the body. was wondering if you can help me...

I painted the first original body last week, set it outside for about 45 minutes to dry, went out there and it was gone! My wife says it was the wind, I think it might of started w/the wind only to be carried away by some kid?

Anyway, the body that came with the kit was a Proline chevy truck lexan body, I never got a chance to line it up with the mounting pins to see how well it fit on the chassis. After the original body was gone I opted to go to the hs to see if I could find the same lexan body. I was in luck, they had the same proline body I thought.

I trimmed out the wheel wells of the proline '99 chevy 3082-00 body which seemed identical to the first - right down to the blue peel off sticker on top and the spoiler cut out in back. This body isn't painted yet, I alligned the clear body onto the just built chassis and I just realized the two pins in front and the center in the rear are not going to line up with the perferration (that needs to be drilled out) seems as if the body is about 1/4 - 3/8" of an inch off where the holes line up - the body seems short for the chassis - the rear shock towers will barely make it up inside the body cavity in back, the body seems short for the truck?

Is this the same body that came with the electric factory team kit? I suppose I could drill holes just in front of the predrill-perferation in the hood and the back hoping it would allign ok even though it's getting close in the front and the shock towers are against the far rearend of the cavity of the bodies raised shock tower mold?

Thank you,

l:confused

[k_sw31]

Looks great :D

I am pretty clueless on the body though, best take it into you lhs. :confused:

[litegide]

OK, I'm getting closer to makin this kit complete.

The ESC is a LRP Quantum Super Reverse, it came with (3) small capacitors and a heat sync, the directions that came w/the ESC says Never INstall a shotsky diode, then it says Motor Supression, if a racing motor is installed solder the capacitors or inadaquete supression mau occur - solder the capacitors supplied.

Question #1 - Do I need these three capacitors? if I do not sure of exactly where to solder them...

The motor is a Speed Gem Pro Titanite 15T Double.

Question #2 - The leads from the ESC are to short to reach to the motor, what are the extensions from the motor (that it looks like I'll need) called?

Thanks,

Phil

[k_sw31]

With your motor you dont need capacitors, they are incorparated into the endbell design :)

For the leads, search on tower hobbies, they carry a lot of parts..you should be able to find some, other wise your lhs should have some too.

[litegide]

k_sw31

Thanks for the good news with not neading the capacitors :)

The leads, it would be probably alittle less from tower, but I an't see an order that small from Tower so I'll probably get them from the LHS as you mentioned.

Thanks again!

Phil

[k_sw31]

No prob. :D

BTW, if you are heading into your lhs, I suggest you see if they carry the rpm rear a-arm mounts for the T3, the stock ones break very easily.

[RC10's]

i think that body may be the GMC sierrra body which isnt meant for the T3 which would explain your problem. the pro-line chevy body for the T3 says "for T3" on the label. I think that the speedgem motors have capacitors built into the endbell (most trinity motors do) and you just need bullet connectors which you can get 2 for 2 bucks from your lhs or 10 for 79cents at a hardware store (their just electrical connectors, female and male bullet).

[litegide]

RC10's thanks for the reply.

here is a end shot photo of the Trinity Titanite Speed Gem Pro, are the little braids what takes the place of the capacitor.

The Proline body that I purchased has the exact same blue sticker, the exact same '99 Chevy Siverado decals as the one that came w/my T3 kit (that I lost outside in the wind... :confused: )

I have the new body cardboard and bag w/tag in my hand "3082 '99 Chevy Fits RC10T3 Part # 3082-00"

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDW76&P=7

If I drilled into the body in the back or front 1/8"-1/4" away from the perf holes would it present a problem?

Phil

[litegide]

.

[pudder]

Yesterday there was not much competition at racing at all, I took first in all the qualifiers and a-main.

[pudder]

I talked to the track's owner, he is in contact with AE quite a bit, and I asked him about the T4. He told me they were working on it of course, and that he does have the part number for it when it is to be released. I will try to find out more details, as well as the part number for it.

I also asked him about a FT B4. He said there most likely won't be an FT for around a year.

[mochunk]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Rule number 1, dont hit curbs! :p

Just have fun, set up a few jumps :D

I can atest (http://mochunk.net/rccars/gfx/rccrash.wmv) to that!! :D

Troll

[Crashinj]

:rolleyes: I had a RC10T when they first came out, that was years ago. I got out of the hobby and now I'm trying to get back in.

I'm looking pretty hard at the T3, but want to know is there a list somewhere of mods for it? How about upgrades? Anyplace around that has really good prices. As usual I have to do everything on a tight budget.

Last thing, is there anywhere that has a active chat room for cars? I've been to several actually lost count but no one was home at any of them.

Thanks guys.

Crashin J

[pudder]

If you look around the Radio Control Zone, there is a chat. Try the link from www.rccaraction.com and go to Radio Control Zone, then there should be a link near top of page to the chat. I think they still have the chat anyways, there is usually people in there. I haven't been there for a while.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Crashinj


I'm looking pretty hard at the T3, but want to know is there a list somewhere of mods for it? How about upgrades? Anyplace around that has really good prices. As usual I have to do everything on a tight budget.


Well, the T3 is a great truck. Really the biggest upgrade that you need is the rpm rear a-arm mounts because the stock ones tend to break very easily. Luckily these will only run you 5$. :D

That is pretty much it, and I'd suggest buying a team or factory team version so you dont have to add in bearings and all the other goodies, plus you have the pleasure of building it yourself. :D

[k_sw31]

Hey, this link is in about 3 or 4 different threads in the electric forum, but I may as well post it here.

Its just a raw clip, but it flys. 2.8 megs. The jump is about 5 ft tall and my T3 flew about 35 feet on the best jump. Hlaf dumped pack also! :D

My BL T3 powered by a lehner basic 5300, 6 cells (http://www.brushless.net/~tc3punk/k_sw31.wmv)

[mochunk]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Hey, this link is in about 3 or 4 different threads in the electric forum, but I may as well post it here.

Its just a raw clip, but it flys. 2.8 megs. The jump is about 5 ft tall and my T3 flew about 35 feet on the best jump. Hlaf dumped pack also! :D

My BL T3 powered by a lehner basic 5300, 6 cells (http://www.brushless.net/~tc3punk/k_sw31.wmv)

Not bad, definately have better aim than I do ;) But then again. I've only had like 6 runs with the truck so far, and I've never aligned it properly.

For some reason, it's fun to jump this thing way to far and high, and it takes it as long as you don't land too crooked.

Troll

[k_sw31]

Yeah, these trucks are great! :D

[RC10's]

what kinda run time do you get with 6 cells with that motor? And more importantly what type of cells are you running? Also was that motor a direct fit and do normal pinions fit on it and what controller are you using? thanks

[k_sw31]

Well, runtime goes for around 10-12 minutes, but I have never timed it, just an estimate. Thats generally on sanyo 3000 hvs, with my GP3300s I notice a minute or two more. Most important is with 18/87 gearing I can touch a little over 40 mph, that vid was with 16/90 gearing. :D

The controller is a POS lehner warrior 4018. Let me tell you...IT SUCKS. :p

That was the reason I had such low gearing, so I could have as little cogging as possible with out having to run a receiver pack (the cogging is still very bad :(). I am currently saving up for a hacker esc. :)

The shaft is a standard 1/8th in diameter, the only thing you need to do is grind a flat spot on it with a dremel. :)

[vtjvt]

Hey guys, I am new to R/C cars and such, just got my first about a month ago, (T3 team kit) I have some weird problems I can't figure out, when the truck gets 20 or so feet away it tends to studder when accelerating, and sometimes loses steering, I have replaced the reciever antenna changed the diodes on motor, tried running a battery pack for the reciever, what else can I do???? I am running a speed gems 2 14x2 motor, 18/87 gearing, a duratrax streek esc, and a futuba radio system. the truck runs great up close, even pulls the front wheels off the ground once in a great while (not trying for that) also I have the motor timing set to 20 deg. thanks for any help in advance.

[pudder]

Gee Kyle, think you might have been able to edit out about a minute of the video when you're getting your truck lined up and all :p

[pudder]

Originally posted by vtjvt
Hey guys, I am new to R/C cars and such, just got my first about a month ago, (T3 team kit) I have some weird problems I can't figure out, when the truck gets 20 or so feet away it tends to studder when accelerating, and sometimes loses steering, I have replaced the reciever antenna changed the diodes on motor, tried running a battery pack for the reciever, what else can I do???? I am running a speed gems 2 14x2 motor, 18/87 gearing, a duratrax streek esc, and a futuba radio system. the truck runs great up close, even pulls the front wheels off the ground once in a great while (not trying for that) also I have the motor timing set to 20 deg. thanks for any help in advance.

Try running with your ESC on the shock tower, and so the ESC wire that goes to the reciever is not under the battery. Apparently, when it is under the battery, it kills the range, I also found this to be true for me too. I got a lot more range running with the ESC on shock tower, and ESC wire running on side of the chassis, not under the battery like most people...

[RCDoon]

Hey Pudder,
I was having the same problem with Glitching and I have a question. Someone told me to make sure the antenna wire is insulated if it is not in the tube. (the part that is in the car)They said to put it in fuel tubing or something like that?? Have you heard of this, Also should any antenna wire hang out of the top of the antenna tube? Thanks

[vtjvt]

Originally posted by pudder
Try running with your ESC on the shock tower, and so the ESC wire that goes to the reciever is not under the battery. Apparently, when it is under the battery, it kills the range, I also found this to be true for me too. I got a lot more range running with the ESC on shock tower, and ESC wire running on side of the chassis, not under the battery like most people...

If the dang rain stops I will give it a try, I have tried mountint the reciever on the shock tower, but not the esc, also to add a little for future help my radio is a 75mhz AM system.

[FSU427P]

If this helps any, you might want to consider a good FM system. Lately FM has become much more affordable compared to what it used to be. I run my T3 with a JR Xr3i and have yet to experience any problems. An FM system will definitely help your distance problems.

[vtjvt]

yea FM is comming to my house in the not to distant future, I am just trying to convince the wife that the kids really want me to have one.:D :D

[pudder]

Originally posted by RCDoon
Hey Pudder,
I was having the same problem with Glitching and I have a question. Someone told me to make sure the antenna wire is insulated if it is not in the tube. (the part that is in the car)They said to put it in fuel tubing or something like that?? Have you heard of this, Also should any antenna wire hang out of the top of the antenna tube? Thanks

Um... I don't know about the fuel tubing thing, and yes, it is fine to hang out, mine always hangs out... the antenna that is.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by pudder
Gee Kyle, think you might have been able to edit out about a minute of the video when you're getting your truck lined up and all :p

Lol, yeah, it was dark when I got in, had homework to do so I just captured a raw clip and sent it out to a friend of mine. :p

[litegide]

k_sw31,

I looked on the motor and nowhere does it say + or -

The speed gem decal is on the top the
right and left sides are copper with tabs on the top and bottm, is one side usaully considered the hot?

Maybe if I remove the motor it might say somewhere on the underside which is + or - :confused:

If there is a simple solution - forgive me

Phil

[k_sw31]

Simple, look on the back of the endbell, there will be a + on the positive side or the motor, attach the red wire to that side. :)

[pudder]

Yes, the + should be on the right side of the bearing on the endbell.

[litegide]

Got it guys!:)

Thank you

Phil

[litegide]

The first run! man this t3 is fast! The evader is my sons - the T 3 is both of ours and in the background is MY next build.

Too bad I can't afford the ESC, the radio and the motor for a while :(

The T3 is a blast!!! Thanks guys for helping me with the kit.

Phil

[k_sw31]

Looks great! :D

[FSU427P]

I wish I had a B4 to build!

I have a question. What is the best ride height setting for the T3? I think mine is set too high and I want to know what is perfect for racing. Thanks for any help.

[k_sw31]

Well, it depends on your track, but as a starting setting, set the preload so when you drop the truck fully loaded from about a foot or so, the dogbones are level and the front arms are level.

But take it to your track and experiment for a day, see what works.

[RC10's]

If im not mistaken the speed gems have capacitors incorporated into the endbell like the D-5s do??? If this is the case you would be hurting your range by adding more capacitors, so taht could be your interference problem. Or you could always go FM, becuase FM is gonna give you at least a half mile range, last think you want is to run out of range!

[k_sw31]

Well, the speed gems pros have capaciters in their endbells, but not quite like the D5 (no circuit board). I actually dont see how more capacitators could hurt, seeing as all they do is "absorb electrical noise".

[litegide]

The T3 I just built has a Speed Gem Pro Titanite 15T Dbl, I didn't add any of the capacitors that came with the ESC?

Their are braids on the end... I wasn't real sure about that myself, but it runs great without adding the capacitors.

Phil

[RC10's]

If there is no interference without the capacitors dont bother to add them. My T3 is tired...at almost 4 years old with 3 million batterys through it its pretty beat up. I think im gonna buy a new factory team T3.

[k_sw31]

RC10's, have you seen any D5s getting in yet?

I finally got my B4, working on building it, I'd like to have it some time soon. ;)

[RCDoon]

Hey Guys need some Help!

I have a FT T3 and everytime I run the Pin in the rear CVD comes loose. It has not fallen out yet, but has come pretty darn close, When it comes out the tires cannot spin freely because it hits the A-Arm (Kinda how I noticed it) Any ideas, My first thought was threadlock or CA Glue, Has anybody else experienced this?

RCDoon

[pudder]

You are supposed to threadlock the setscrew that holds the pin in when you put it together. I do this every time I take apart my CVD's. You will also want to tighten the setscrew down real tight to prevent against backing off.

[litegide]

k_sw31

I'm about to build my B4 also, with one car under my belt I feel more confident. Although, wanted to ask you before I buy the components to make it run - What kind of motor, gear and ESC are you installing, and what kind of speeds to you hope to achieve?

Thanks,

Phil

[k_sw31]

Well, I got the majority of the car done last night, it went together very smoothly, read my post in the B4 forum for the "full report". ;)

I will be using a 14x1 D5, but I haven't gotten that yet, so I think I will run a friends 19x2 for starters, maybe take some video too. :D

I will probably just be running a novak fusion for now, nice and small, it will fit in the buggy well. :)

I am not all that concerend about speed, because any time I want some serious speed I can throw in my brushless setup. :D I am not quite sure what to expect out of the 14x1 but I'd say between 30-35. :)

RCDoon- Make sure the set screw is tightend and thread locked. For insurances, get a large peice of heatshrink around where the pin is to prevent it coming out in the future.

[RC10's]

I havent seen a 14x1 D5 come in yet, and come to think of it I dont think i have ever seen one. Im assuming you still have it on order? You may be best off cancelling the order and going somewhere else, we have all kinds of D4s in the back...anyway good luck

[FSU427P]

I think he wants that new 'flatliner' technology.

[pudder]

I talked to one hardcore racer at my track and he has a D5 Flatliner. He said that the performance is real good, but the effeciency sucks. He had one of the fastest cars, and it looks like the D4 got it around the track pretty quick.

[k_sw31]

RC10's, I dont see any D4s listed on the web site, or a way to cancel my order. If I call the phone number off the website and try to order a D4 can I do that over the phone?

I think I'll try callin in a little bit.

[xtrout]

My rear RPM bumper vs. shock tower on B3...guess who won!:cool:

[RC10's]

you could call and see if you get order a D4 or cancel the order on your D5, give it a shot.

[pudder]

RC10's, nice Bronco. My neighbor has one, early 90's model, its okay I guess.

[RC10's]

it took me a few minutes to figure out how the hell you knew I had a Bronco, then I remeberd that www button...For a minute though im thinking...stalker...LOL...thanks, I just put in a new system so now im "bumpin".

[k_sw31]

RC10's, I tried calling the shop and ordering dept. today, they both said that their telephone service was not working. Any idea what was happening?

[RC10's]

Im going into work tomorrow so I will see if I can find your order and have the manager call you or something like that.....

[k_sw31]

Well, I can try and call again this weekend, with school and track I am getting home at 4:30 or so, if he calls (not sure how late you guys are open) then anywhere from 4:30 to 5:30 should be good. :)

thanks,
Kyle

[RC10's]

we got in 14x1 D5s today, i took out the one with the best specs and gave it to my manager, hopefully you should be getting a new motor soon...:)

[k_sw31]

Thanks dude! :D

I decided to just go with a D5 so I didn't bother calling last weekend.

With the money I'll be making soon I can just buy a D4 if I want one later. :)

[pudder]

I picked up this body the other day. My Silverado is getting beat up, and I thought I may as well have a fresh body for a new season. :)

I used Pactra Blue Streak for the main color, then into a Pactra Outlaw Black fade, with a Pactra Racing Red design outlined in Pactra Indy Silver, along with a few decals from Pro-Line, Kimbrough, JR Racing and Autographics of California. :)

This is my first attempt at a few things like the fade, as well as having the large designs on the body. Most of my other bodies are pretty plain. :)

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/files/DSC05009.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/files/DSC05011.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/files/DSC05012.JPG

[k_sw31]

Well I received the 14x1 today not sure if I'll throw it in my B4 or T3, but I'll have to dig up a cvd pin for my B4 so we'll see....

Nice paint job pudder! :D

[k_sw31]

I just put a couple of packs through my D5 and man this thing flies! I need some parts for my T3 so I was running it in my B4, properly geared with the slipper slipping it lofts the front wheels up nicely, and if I were to go a few turns lower it would be comparable to my brushless. :)

So far its a nice motor, but we'll see how it wears....:)

[RC10's]

did they send you the motor?

[Mini Z]

Ne one have videos or links to videos of thier or others T3? running arround? lol i just watched a video posted on this forums for a T3 with some Canyonaro Music and hey it was cool till the end when the guy missed the jump and it slam right into a curb! Jebus! THats hardcore LMAO. BTW I'm getting the Sport T3 :) I'm a bit a a cheap person :P

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by RC10's
did they send you the motor?

Yeah I stated above....(received it on monday)

After a few more packs I am liking it even more! :)

Mini z- Here is a vid of my T3 doing a few jumps, keep in mind its just a raw clip so its sorta boring, but I get some good jumps in:
http://www.brushless.net/~tc3punk/k_sw31.wmv

also check out pudder's site http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder and go into the videos section, he has quite a few there. :)

[pudder]

Originally posted by Mini Z
Ne one have videos or links to videos of thier or others T3? running arround?

I have quite a few vids on my site @ http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder and the videos page is http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/movies.htm

Take a look. I don't think that I have any clearly labelled that show what vehicles is in what video, but most of the vids are good.

[Mini Z]

yay!!! I'm so happy someone in my hometown wants to trade my Micro RS4 for a T3 tomorrow... :D YAY!!! **Sniff Sniff... Tear rolling down from eye...** Woohoo now to Make a RC10T3 Area on my forums www.GTArc.TK

[Mini Z]

Hmm... Well since I'm getting my truck this after noon... I'm mainly gonna usethis truck on-road any suggestions for tires and gearing??? The motor is a 17T unknown ATM and a Novak Reactor for the ESC :D Also i've been seeing on the forums of some people using these trucks as Carpet Racers... ***? They look crazy... What Type of tires and rims could i use that would make my car a Carpet racer... Thanx All :D

[pudder]

Don't give your truck a carpet track setup unless you are planning to only race carpet with it. The only other place a carpet track setup is good on is really smooth streets, but even then any little bumps bottom it out. If you want to race carpet track a lot, PM me and I'll let you know what all you need to get, I have a few seasons of carpet track experience now with trucks.

You might also want to get bearings for your truck too, the stock bushings really suck.

[k_sw31]

For street cruising try some pro-line road hawg tires (or road rage, whichever you can get) on just some rpm rims. The look and work great. :)

[Mini Z]

On the stock T3 Rims can i mounth the RS4 MT onroad tires?

[k_sw31]

Yes you can, but the rs4 mt tires are not that great...really hard compound.

[pudder]

I have the Road Hawg II's, awsome tires, with enough power on a decent parking lot I can pull wheelies. Great grip! I have mine on HPI rims.

[RC10's]

the road rage and road hawg tires are about as good as it gets for off-road truck racing on-road, keep in mind it is an OFF-ROAD truck. I drive mine on the street too, but it doesnt perform that good and I dont expect it to.

[mochunk]

Originally posted by Mini Z
yay!!! I'm so happy someone in my hometown wants to trade my Micro RS4 for a T3 tomorrow... :D YAY!!! **Sniff Sniff... Tear rolling down from eye...** Woohoo now to Make a RC10T3 Area on my forums www.GTArc.TK

I have both, and have enjoyed the T3 much more, and had it a third of the time. And BTW that was MY t3 slamming into the curb. I have a bunch of other .mov movies of it about 8 feet in the air, but they are horrible quality and not worth posting. I think I got over the high jumping early on. I'm not driving it right now since for some reason the motor I have in it keeps desoldering off the positive wire it gets so hot, and no it's not gearing, I've ran like 10 packs through it before it started happening, I think it just needs a good cleaning and inspection. It's been quite a few packs in the dirt since I've done that, and I'm too lazy to drop a stock motor back in it. I also have to rebuild the front half of my tc3 since so much is tweaked, it just doesnt drive straight right now.

Oh and my micro is awaiting a complete rebuild (AGAIN) since I wasn't happy with the last setup. (that and I was the first to order AktionDans 540 chassis). Ahem...

So much on my plate and I'm full at the moment :)

Troll

[smallman28]

I was thinking about a RTR RC10T3 and wondered if some one with a bit of knowledge could answer me a couple questions.
What is the motor that comes in the kit and what is the speed control capable of handling in terms of motor and battery size ?

[k_sw31]

Well, if you are talking about the team built RTR (I think thats what they call it :rolleyes: ) includes a stock 27 turn motor, and basically any speed controller can take it with six cells. The regular RTR has a 20 turn motor and most any esc should not have a problem with it. :)

[RC10's]

the speed control in the RTR is a LRP Runner capable of handling 18-36 turns, its digital. The motor is a 19 turn reedy "Stock". The truck is actually surpisiingly quick with this setup and is well worth 210.00$.

[SST'99Pro]

Hello to all RC fellows....:) This is my fisrt post in this forum.:D and i start with a tuff one.. Does anybody now when the new T4 will come Out???? I'm interested in byuing a Stadium Truck electric and i like AE very much. I own a Mission electric touring car to complete my on-road needs, but now i want to try Off and Dirt Road electric. Should i buy the T3 or wait a little more (days or month)) for the new T4???
Thanks for everything and sorry my lousy English ( I'm from Portugal you see...:rolleyes: )

[FSU427P]

A lot have asked this question before. Associated has plans for a T4 in the distant future, but for now the T3 reigns supreme, and should do so for at least another year and a half, if not longer. Your best bet right now is to go with the T3. It will provide you with years of enjoyment, and even if the T4 is released sooner than I am saying, there will not be a factory team version of it for at least another year after that, so what is the point. Get a Factory Team edition T3 now and enjoy!

[k_sw31]

I agree with FSU427P, I know there is a T4 in the works, but it will not be out for some time. It sounds as if rather than basing it off the the B4 they are taking an entirley new path (this is just me speaking though) and designing this truck from scratch. So basically you wont be seeing a T4 for awhile, just pick up an FT T3 and have fun. :)

[Mini Z]

YEA! I got my T3 although its a Sport. Is the chasis a LONG Chasis???

[xtrout]

Hi All,

Anyone happen to know when the Team Orion V2 modified engine will be released. I know this is not really a T3 question, but the will be going in a T3.

Thanks,
Xtrout:D

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Mini Z
YEA! I got my T3 although its a Sport. Is the chasis a LONG Chasis???

If you can fit 3-4 of those little foam blocks then it is the XL chassis, 1-2 of the foam blocks and it is a short chassis.


xtrout- I haven't been keeping up with this motor in particular, but I have not heard anything about it since the show it was unveiled at. As soon as it is realesed you should be able to get it from some hobby shops and most online shops though. :)

[Mini Z]

well looks like i have an Extra Large Chasis :D BTW where can u get the Graphite FT Chasis? or only available for FT T3'z only??? and Hop-ups any sites on where i can find some besides ebay?

[RC10's]

I too would just get the FT T3 because who knows how long it will be until the T4 is released, sure it is gonna be a totally kick ass truck but I could easily see it taking into next year. My work (sheldons hobbies) has the FT T3 on sale for 179.99$ www.sheldonshobbies.com Im pretty sure thats one of the cheapest prices around. (and we actually have those in stock so it wont take 2 months to get to you....:) )

[FSU427P]

Mini Z,

You can get every available factory team part, including all graphite chassis components, in seperate packaging. Try your local hobby shop, or tower hobbies online. The chassis should set you back about $35, and it's worth that for it's rigidity.

[Anemic_SluG]

Originally posted by RC10's
I too would just get the FT T3 because who knows how long it will be until the T4 is released, sure it is gonna be a totally kick ass truck but I could easily see it taking into next year. My work (sheldons hobbies) has the FT T3 on sale for 179.99$ www.sheldonshobbies.com Im pretty sure thats one of the cheapest prices around. (and we actually have those in stock so it wont take 2 months to get to you....:) )


Just a funny thought I used to get Hpo up parts for my original Tamiya Hotshot there when I lived in Cali. Hella cool place if any of you plan on buysing a FT T3. Man brings back good times!!:cool:

[Anemic_SluG]

Man I need to learn how to spell!!! carry on!

[SST'99Pro]

Originally posted by FSU427P
A lot have asked this question before. Associated has plans for a T4 in the distant future, but for now the T3 reigns supreme, and should do so for at least another year and a half, if not longer. Your best bet right now is to go with the T3. It will provide you with years of enjoyment, and even if the T4 is released sooner than I am saying, there will not be a factory team version of it for at least another year after that, so what is the point. Get a Factory Team edition T3 now and enjoy!


:) thanks for your opinion. I think i will do that.
FT T3 on the way.....

[pudder]

Damn, I've missed too much to post to. I for some reason has stopped getting email notifications.

I'm sitting in school, got expelled from keyboarding for 2 days. :p

Also havent had time at home to reply to anything.

Talk later,

Mike

[Mini Z]

LMAO what did you do to get expelled? Or Suspended? hehehe... that sux...

==========
GTA R/C Zone
www.GTArc.tk

[RC10's]

yeah sheldons hobbies rules!!! lol, I work there so maybe thats a jaded opinion though. We have our T3s on clearance sale though to get rid of the stock to make room for the T4s.

[RCDoon]

Hey All,
I have a T3 and have a RPM Gear Cover on it. For some reason I am getting grains of sand in between the gear mesh now and then (pinion + Spur). When this happens a clicking sound comes from the spur+pinion. If I take my gear cover off and look, sure enough there are little grains of sand stuck in the teeth, once I remove them, noise goes away. I have looked at where the gear cover meets the plate and there are no spaces, anybody have this problem or an idea to keep sand out? Thanks in advance

RCDoon

[Mini Z]

Maybe there is Sand in your motor... Might wanna check that out and check to see if the motor screws are on tightly that there is no gap... between the motor and motor plate... Heh I Finally can drive my Truck tonight cuz I'm picking up a servo and ESC from my friend! Sweet Bliss...

[pudder]

Yes, it is highly likely that you are getting the sand and other small crap coming through your motor.

After running in fine dirt, or dusty areas, I find that my spur and pinion, as well as inside the gear cover, and motor plate, are dusty, I have never gotten any small grains of anything in but dust is about all. :)

-----

MiniZ It is a really stupid story how I got suspended. I just finished a test, and then I asked if I could hand out papers to people when they came out of the printer, teacher says "No." I said "Well I will get bored and then probably disturb the rest of the class." She said "No, go sit down" So then my cousin comes up with his test, he was going to staple the corner of a few pieces together, so I offered to do it, he said sure, I did, he said thanks, hand it back to him, teacher starts to yell at me again and then I got suspended for 2 days.

I think I am actually supposed to be doing work right now, but she can go blow goats.

[RCDoon]

Is there anyway to keep the sand out? I really don't know how it is getting in through the motor?

[k_sw31]

Well, you can try putting electrical tape over where the gear cover meets the plate, to make sure it is completely sealed. You should also make sure there is no dirt inside the gear cover when you put it on.

The best thing to do is not run in sand. It gets into everything, and totally screws your commutator and brushes.

[Mini Z]

yay!I got my T3 Wired up! :D and RTR woohoo! now what things will mostlikly break? and what should i stock up on? for the T3? AND i would really like to know what tires and rims from Carpet Cars would fit the T3 because the Track close to me is indoor carpet only and I've seen a few T3'z with Carpet Tires and rims quite Wide though please let me know thanx...

[k_sw31]

The first thing that will break are the rear a arm mounts, I highly suggest you buy the ones offered by rpm, I have yet to break one. (broken about 3-4 stock ones.) basically get a lot of the rpm parts, the look great and work great. The T3 does not need much in the way of upgrades, but if it does not already have cvds, ti turnbuckles and bearings, then I suggest you pick those up asap.

I dont know which rims and stuff fit the T3 but check out pudders site http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder , he had/has a cool carpet setup for his t3, and can probably tell you what rims/tires he used. :)

BTW, check out his truck cam!

[RC10's]

most common broken part is rear A-arm mounts. Next common is probably the top plate, or front bulkhead, get RPM if possible. definetly get titanium turnbuckles, the lunsfords are reasonably priced. RPM parts are great, I would highly reccomend there gear cover, and rear bumper / motor protector.

[Mini Z]

Can someone give me a site on where i can get the T3 RPM A Arm mounts? as well as the TI Turnbukle'z?

[FSU427P]

Towerhobbies.com

[pudder]

Mini Z- if you want to get into detail about my T3 setup, talk to me on MSN. I can tell you everything you need.

[Mini Z]

ok'z couldn't find the T3 A-Arms or the Turnbuckle'z on Tower... Maybe I'm not searching right...

[pudder]

Okay, tower does have the RPM parts. Here are the part numbers off the RPM site:

70572 3 Deg. Rear Mounts for the Assoc. B3 & T3 (Black)
70575 3 Deg. Rear Mounts for the Assoc. B3 & T3 (Blue)
70577 3 Deg. Rear Mounts for the Assoc. B3 & T3 (Yellow)

They are available in the three colors listed above. All RPM parts have warranty as well.

Here is the part number for the blue titanium turnbuckle set for T3:

1280 Blue Titanium Turnbuckle Kit, RC10GT / T2 / T3

And yes, tower does have the turnbuckle set in as well.

Just enter the part number that you want from above, put it in their search field and search.

Good luck.

[k_sw31]

Enter the words "rc10t3" and "T3" in the search field, you should come up with all of the above if you scroll through a few pages. :)

[crono man]

anybody knows if someone makes a longer motor guard that covers the whole motor?

[k_sw31]

Look for the rpm rear bumber/motor guard. :)

In different colors too! :)

[RC10's]

After bending the end bell on my motor I too asked the same question, and the RPM gaurd is the solution. RPM makes some of the best products out there.

[CAMRY17]

Hi

I've just bought a T3 Team model and the plastic battery strap is too short. I cannot connect the hook into the rear tower.

Do associated do a long battery strap or does anyone know of any solutions to my problem.

Cheers

[k_sw31]

You probably got the strap for the shorter chassis on accident.

This should be what you need: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3266&P=7

:)

[CAMRY17]

Thanks ordered from my local hobby shop will be here tomorrow.

Appears I had the short one for the buddy.

[pudder]

Well I havent been around here for a while...

I agree that RPM makes some of the greatest parts that not only look great, but serve an actual purpose! My rear bumper has saved my ass many a time.

I still have to get my T3 ready for racing in just over a week, I dont even have shocks on it yet!

[xtrout]

Yeah, the rear bumper is handy. Friend crashed into the back at me. I still have my motor but his front shock tower on his B3 is toast. Busted it right in half.

[xtrout]

Yeah, the rear bumper is handy. Friend crashed into the back at me. I still have my motor but his front shock tower on his B3 is toast. Busted it right in half.

[CHEVYMAN07]

Hello everybody. My sister wants to get into the hobby and she wants a good truck. Something that can go off-road fairly well, be able to race and be pretty durable. I recommended the t3 rtr because all I have heard is good news about this truck. Anybody have any opinions on the RTR? Thanks again

[k_sw31]

Yeah the rtr should be good for her, but I would get the team built rtr from stormer hobbies, that way you get bearings and a better motor. :)

[CHEVYMAN07]

They have a team built rtr T3? Never heard of it. Ill check it out and thanks

[k_sw31]

It looks to be pretty good: https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=ASC7008

[dragracer28]

I have a team built T3 that i got from Hobby People. It is a great truck for someone starting out. The only downsides are the dogbones and the blue shocks not the hard ones like the regular team truck. The body is also not the best but it looks ok from a distance.

[pudder]

Racing starts next weekend, I got my truck all polished and ready to get a beating! First time racing mod for a season!

Here's an update on the features:

JR XR3 radio
Tekin 411 G2 ESC
Corally 12 turn triple hand wound modified motor
RPM blue ballcups
RPM blue gear cover
RPM blue rear bumper
RPM blue rear a-arm mounts
RPM blue lower spring collars
Hitec HS-5625 MG servo
Blue antenna tube
Blue RPM Front Skid
Blue RPM nuts
Blue DuraTrax front and rear dish rims
Pro-Line Edge front tires
Team Losi Step Pin red rear tires
Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer T3 body

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05149.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05154.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05155.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05156.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05157.JPG

[k_sw31]

Lookin good!

[RC10's]

nice looking truck pudder, I like that new crowd pleazer body. Im about to tear into my T3 for some rebuilding.

[FSU427P]

Those are nice rims pudder.

[pudder]

The rims are nice, however I was unaware of one thing when I got them. The fronts are much more narrow offset than the T3 will accept. Since they are made for the Evader ST, I just took the Evader front axle and axle block and used that. :)

Thanks for the comments guys.

[k_sw31]

Grab a set of the blue rpm clawz and some more tires are you'll be lookin great!

[pudder]

No, those are too heavy/chrome will come off in races. If anything I will just get some white dishes and dye them when these rims are toast. :)

[FSU427P]

On the subject of dying rims, what is the best method of doing it?

[Se_12alty]

Don't get me started again PUdder! Again its dyno proven that "YeRRow" is faster. You need more yerrow parts. Well truck looks good. Good Luck this season, let us know how it goes.

[pudder]

Originally posted by FSU427P
On the subject of dying rims, what is the best method of doing it?

Buy RIT brand dye, I think you should be able to get it from WalMart or Shoppers Drug Mart if you have it there...

The instructions in the box are pretty good.

If you need a bit more of an understanding, take a look at this article...

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/how_to_dye_plastics.htm

[aspiringrcracer710]

Hey, I need to replace the servo in my T3 RTR. Its a Hitec servo, and I want to replace it with another one of the same brand, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The radio is a Hitec Lynx Sport AM

[FSU427P]

Well I know that Hitec makes nice digital servo's if you wanted to stay brand loyal. Look them up on Towerhobbies.com.
JR also makes quality servos. Their z590m is a metal gear high-torque servo with 85oz of torque. That's what I use in my T3.

[k_sw31]

The hitec 625 mg should be good, search for it on tower. :)

[pudder]

I have th 625, great servo, use it for racing.

[k_sw31]

Yeah, I have been using one too, until recently, I broke one of the mounting ears off in a crash...:(

[RC10's]

Hitec servos are of good quality and are priced reasonably well. JR servos seem a little pricey to me. The HS-625MG is a really good servo at a very reasonable price. that is all the servo you really need a light truck like the T3.

[Jhstud50]

I have a T3 with a 2400 batteries, F1 Pro Reverse, and a D4 motor. My gear ratio is 10.44:1 with a 20t pinion and 87t spur. What is your prediction of how fast con my car go with my stuff above?:confused:

[xtrout]

Thought I would uploade a pic of my lates paint job and new tires before they get thrashed beyond recognition. I must say pre-glued tires sure do make it easy.

http://xtrout.net/Purplecar003.jpg

[pudder]

Thats a real nice looking truck. What brand of tires are those? I like the rims too. :)

Keep up the good work.

[xtrout]

Thanks Pudder!

They are from Team Orion. The rear are Militias Fresh Kicks on Revover rims. The fronts are straight rails and the same rims. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXCZM8

Color is Pearl Purple with a silver back coat.

[pudder]

Those are some really good looking tires. Be sure to tell how they perform! :)

[xtrout]

It rides some nice wheelies on asphalt. Ill let you know about the dirt soon.

[FSU427P]

That's a nice shade of deep purple. It almost looks black

[k_sw31]

You should make a decal for it that says "Purple Losi Eater". :p

[aspiringrcracer710]

any thoughts on the 605BB MG from Hitec guys?

[Jhstud50]

I have a T3 with a 2400 batteries, F1 Pro Reverse, and a D4 motor. My gear ratio is 10.44:1 with a 20t pinion and 87t spur. What is your prediction of how fast con my car go with my stuff above? :confused:

[pudder]

Originally posted by k_sw31
You should make a decal for it that says "Purple Losi Eater". :p

How about "Purple Losi Beater" ?

[coasterfreak]

Hey guys, i was wondering what speed gems pro motor you would recommend for a mostly bashing/ little racing T3. I don't want something too low, i was considering a 15 turn or 17 turn double. how does that sound?

BTW- my esc is a Novak Duster II and it can take down to 12 turn.

[pudder]

Sounds alright, but keep in mind that with a lower turn motor your runtimes will decrease, and maitenence will increase. Also, if you are thinking about racing too, you might want to pick up a separate motor for that if your budget allows. That way you can have one good motor for racing that you should always keep clean, freshly cut comm, good brushes, and one for beating around that you might skip some maitenence on. :)

[Lord Hobbes]

what is the ebst first upgrade for the RTR t3? Im thinking about one with a blazer sport radio and a tekin gs-12 esc, a 1500 and a 2000 mah battery.Its the RTR version. WHo makes aluminum and graphite parts for it? i want to be able to have people ooooo and ahhhhh at my car with or without the body on. any suggestions? BTW it still has a stock rtr parts exept for those i lested. the motor is the 20 turn stock motor.

[pudder]

Bearings are the first upgrade you should get. Hands down.

[vtjvt]

yes bearings are a must, you will notice a differance, I would also recomend some titainum turnbuckles because the stock ones snap very easily.

[pudder]

After those two upgrades, I reccomend getting ANY part you can in the color blue, it is a real performance enhancer.

[RC10's]

yeah we have proven (dont ask how) that blue is faster. RPM makes many nice T3 parts I would reccomend such as front and rear bumpers, A-arm mounts (rear) and a lot of other nice things. Look around you will find a lot of cool stuff for the truck. A lot of the HPI rims will fit and look really cool.

[RC10's]

I have a T3 with a 2400 batteries, F1 Pro Reverse, and a D4 motor. My gear ratio is 10.44:1 with a 20t pinion and 87t spur. What is your prediction of how fast con my car go with my stuff above?
You failed to mention one incredibly important fact, the number of turns of your motor....that makes all the difference in the world...and are the baterys matched?

[xtrout]

I added Blue aluminum screws and a Blue front kickup. My T3 goes at least 10MPH faster. Dont even get me started on the torque improvements.;)

[Lord Hobbes]

oooo u mean like when a long time ago when i had my gt, i painted the body blue and it went faster? also, one of my blue screws was missing in the kit, and then when i added an orange one, the left side seemed to have more power.....

[Lord Hobbes]

meaning the side with the blue screw. the blue screw was on the left

[Lord Hobbes]

ok, nother question. i need about 500 grand to buy some land.
some jackass bought the land that the local track was on and totally destroyed it. i also need about 5 truckloads of dirt. anyone have an idea?:(

[pudder]

On the topic of blue some more, me and another blue T3 took the two top spots in the a-main and qualifiers today. :) I had a bit of an edge with my blue motor endbell though.

Ya, I said I was going to race modified, but I was having some trouble with my steering, I seemed to get it fixed before the races, and I raced stock instead. For some reason my comm and brushes are black, and in bad shape, I got 4 laps on the first qualifier and DNS on the second. I threw in some new brushes and armature which solved the problem. I was back in for the 3rd qualifier and took TQ by about 10 seconds, following a stressful a-main. The main was bad at the start because I kept getting stuck behind a slow Evader ST which was blocking me out and took me out a few times in turns. Then I accidently took out my friend who took second a few times, but of course I was nice and waited for him to catch up.

In the end I won Stock Truck A-Main by 1 second. :)

Blue pulls through!

I'll have some pictures later

---------

I'll be racing my B3 in mod next weekend so I won't have any T3 race report. :)

[Lord Hobbes]

nother question. can a fully modded t3 with a good driver beat a relatively stock XXXNT or team GT with a good driver?

[LavaPunk]

Can anyone tell me ground clearence of a t3? (inches preferable as converstions make my brain hurt :rolleyes: )

[k_sw31]

Depending on the setup it can range for 1/3 on an inch to 3 inches.

Lord Hobbes, if you are talking about laps on the track, the size of the track matters, but it is fairly common for electrics to get more laps in than nitro.

[RC10's]

nother question. can a fully modded t3 with a good driver beat a relatively stock XXXNT or team GT with a good driver?

Its all about the driver. All the power and speed in the world doesnt do anything if the driver cant handle it. I find electric drivers to generally be in more control....

[pudder]

I would have to say the same. At my track, the surface is usually really loose and dry, but they have to soak the track down for the nitro trucks, whereas electrics can easily run on dry or just tacky track here. At my offroad track yesterday electric cars had better times than nitro.

But really, it is all in the cars setup, and most of all the driver.

[Crashmaxx]

Originally posted by Lord Hobbes
nother question. can a fully modded t3 with a good driver beat a relatively stock XXXNT or team GT with a good driver?

Been there done that. I raced against the nitro stadium trucks with my T3, and won the A-main, I even had to change batteries half way through. And I was only running a stock motor! I had to be the slowest guy there but I still beat them all. Granted, we run on a small track, but on the straitway, you could tell how slow I was. And these were not stock GTs or XXXNTs, they had some nice engines. Everyone keep joking about how it was so quiet, so on my new body I have an OS sticker on the front and underneath it says "Stealth Tech!". I haven't mounted it yet, but I will post some picks when I do.

[FSU427P]

Nitro guys (at least new to nitro guys) tend to have a complex with their throttle. They seem to know only what full throttle is, therefore they jump too high on the jumps and spin out around the corners. I've beat many GT's and xxx-nt's without trying hard, it's all about the driver and how much control they have.

[Lord Hobbes]

lol that was me with my GT, flipping on the turns and spinning out on the jumps. (no, i didnt say that wrong) loved it like it was my life, just hated the gas, it left oil everywhere in the car, dirt clods in the screws dried rock solid from the gas, and it was a pain running it in a crowded neighborhood with kids hearing it and running from 3 blocks away. loved the car itself though. thats why im getting back into the hobby with a T3. The only problem is, the track i used to drive on was destroyed. Anyone got 500 grand i can borrow for a patch of land and 10 truckloads of dirt?

[pudder]

Here is a picture of my T3 sitting on my pit table, and a picture of the track I race on. The side battery table was a bit messy because I had about 2 soldering guns, 2 chargers, and a bunch of my friends stuff on it.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05333.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05288.JPG

If you want to see any of the racing action pics, or download some of the current vids, take a look at the tracks site:

http://www.midcanadarcautoracing.com/

[Lord Hobbes]

anyone ever heard of the tekin gs-12 esc? im gettin one, but dont know much about it

[pudder]

If you need any help on this ESC when you get it, let me know and I could probably tell you what to do. I do have some Tekin 411's, and have the manual for a few other models.

[RC10's]

I think the GS-12 was pretty much the top of the line controller from Tekin. I believe it was no motor limit with no reverse....dont quote me on any of this this is just what I remeber.

[Deviant]

Hi guys. First post! :)

Can anyone recomend a good grass setup for my factory team T3? I'm racing tomorrow and I'd like at least the chance not to be lapped :D (first race in about 7 years!).

Ok, I'm running a Trinity P2K2 Pro stock motor, 20 pinion and 87 spur. I don't have that many spares available as yet, but I do have a good range of pinions.

What weight oil should I be using?about 20/25 is what I'm predicting. This track has no jumps, just a more or less flat grass track.

Unfortunatley I haven't got any spare tyres at the moment, so I'm stuck with some Pro-Line Bow Tie's on the rear, and some (slightly warn) Pro-Line "The Edge" blade fronts.

Any suggestions would be great thanks!

[Deviant]

damn, doble post/slow ness!

[pudder]

The Bow Ties should be okay, but you should consider using Pro-Line Step Pins, or the new Lug Nuts. If you experience a lack of steering, you can always use pin type tires up front for some more steering, it seems to be a popular thing at my track. :)

[aspiringrcracer710]

Hey guys, Im geting a Hitec 605 BB servo. how are those in a T3?

[FSU427P]

I have a 625MG hitec that I use. I love that servo. The 605BB is along the same lines.

[Deviant]

Any suggestions about shock setup? I'm a little unsure, as I say, I'd expect a little lighter weight oil for grass compared to dirt. Any truth in this?

[pudder]

Use the stock setup and go from there.

[RC10's]

Your gearing seems a little low but I suppose for grass its about right, thats a lot of hard work on a motor. How thick is the grass your racing on? I have never really heard of people racing on grass.

[Deviant]

thats how we do it in the UK mainly, from past experiance at least.

Some pictures here of "first race day in 8 years" if u wanna see...

http://firestorm.tilehill.ac.uk/~steve/images/radio_control/

Man I'm sunburnt :(

[pudder]

Eww, a Losi, what were you thinking! :p

Man, I am glad I didn't go to racing today! It was about +35 degrees celcius here today! I had to do a few things at home, mow lawn, work on ATV' suspension, take care of the puppy...

Sadly, I burnt my already burnt arms some more. :( As quite a few people, I have a "farmers" tan, well I have been wearing a shirt with shorter sleeves the last two days (hey, it's the weekend, I dont need to change clothes :p) and I have a burnt spot about 3-4 inches up my arm where it is usually covered by a shirt. :( Oh well.

[k_sw31]

You should see my neck! Its even more red than usual! :p

[xtrout]

Hi All you redneck! :p

Got a tech question fer all you experienced re-builders out there. I rebuilt the tranny and diff this weekend on my T3 upgrading bushings to bearings. Go it all reassembled according to spec (i think) and am having an issue with my CVD's not spinning to drive the wheels.

It appears the outdrives hubs may not be fully engaged but I know they are assembled correctly. The only thing I can think of is that I did not tighten the hub bolt enough to engage them. I don't really want to pull the whole backend apart again.

Has anyone experienced this one before? If so, please share.

Thanks,
Xtrout

[xtrout]

Nevvvvver mind. I was correct. re-tightening the hub bolt fixed the issue. sorrrrry.

[Floop]

double posted the next one... sorry.:o

[Floop]

I currently have a RC10GT and am concidering picking up an electric truck for my son. I'm just wondering if the T3 shares a lot of the same parts as the GT. Might be nice to only have to have one set of spares where possible.

[FSU427P]

Unfortunately the two truck are completely different. The GT has different arms, tranny, and suspension pieces thn the T3.

[pudder]

If you want a good truck that the Gt shares parts with, take a look at the T2. They share quite a few parts, I think things like suspension arms, shock towers, bumpers....

If you can get your hands on one, they are really good trucks.

[k_sw31]

Pretty much the only common things between the GT and T3 are turnbuckles, CVDs, and tires/rims (As well as shocks). They are very different trucks, but suited well for their purpose. :)

[gubby]

Deviant, in this picture (http://firestorm.tilehill.ac.uk/~steve/images/radio_control/DSCF0120.JPG)

is that a Citroen CX wagon?

[xtrout]

Straight from the horse...errr....distributors mouth.

http://www.rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_t4/rc10t4_kits.htm

:cool:

[Deviant]

Originally posted by gubby
Deviant, in this picture (http://firestorm.tilehill.ac.uk/~steve/images/radio_control/DSCF0120.JPG)

is that a Citroen CX wagon?

No mate, its an older style Peugeot 405 estate (station wagon?) like this one:

http://www.peter-waugh.co.uk/405auto.jpg

Anyway, back on topic :D

I noticed yesterday that the main page on www.rc10.com has changed. The T3 has gone, and the T4 is now there. You can still get to T3 info by clicking "All other kits" or whatever... Hope this means the T4 is due out soon!

[pudder]

"Anticipated release date: end of July 2003"

[aspiringrcracer710]

Speaking of T3, I am having trouble installing my Hitec 605 servo. Ideas?

[pudder]

If you are having trouble fitting it into the chassis, shave a bit of plastic off the edge of the mounting tabs on the servo.

[k_sw31]

Consult your manual because I beleive you need to use some spacers in the servo mounts.

[pudder]

I concur.

[aspiringrcracer710]

well I used the specail spacers that came with the servo mounts, but I will look into shaving plastic off

[RC10's]

I cant wait for the T4 good thing I already started saving for one....

[BigBadTahoe]

I just wanted to say that about a week ago I was wondering about motors, and I decided to buy the Chamelion pro 19 turn and all I can say is WOW! After already having a 19 turn AE motor in the car I thought is would just run a little bit better but this thing really runs like a mod motor!:eek: There can't be many other spec motors out there that can be much better that this. Sorry just had to get that out of my system.:D

[RC10's]

I have heard several people rave about the chamelions, if I didnt love mod so much I would consider getting one.

[Jhstud50]

Yea I have the camelegon motor also and it is sweet!! I am thinking to use my truck for on road racing and I don't know how to install foam tires since it wont fit 2.2 wheels. Please tell me what size of wheel and what kind foam tires should I get.:)

[ttweedle]

aspiring racer you must grind down the post that the screw goes into that the battery hold down strap attaches to. I have a Hitec 605 in a T3 and the case is too tall to just drop in. You must grind away a portion of the round portion until the servo drops in with clearance. The only way around this is get a different servo, or sell the T3 and save teh money for the new T4, it won't have that problem.

[pudder]

Originally posted by Jhstud50
Yea I have the camelegon motor also and it is sweet!! I am thinking to use my truck for on road racing and I don't know how to install foam tires since it wont fit 2.2 wheels. Please tell me what size of wheel and what kind foam tires should I get.:)

JACO foam tires will be a direct fit. You don't need foam tires though unless you are racing on a carpet track.

[Jhstud50]

Thanks for the help! I think I will buy street slicks instead because I am not going to carpet races since I like to race on taft streets.:D

[pudder]

Ya, foams just slide around and get ripped up on the street. Rubbers work much better.

Don't get slicks either, a good road tire with a tread pattern will work much better. Pro-Line makes a few good tires for the road such as the Road Hawgs and Speed Hawgs.

Check them out at www.pro-lineracing.com

-----------------------

I think I'm racing my T3 next weekend. I raced my B3 the last 2 weeks that I raced, just wanted to get it setup good so I have 2 setup vehicles. :)

[Deviant]

I just ordered a Reedy Krypton 12 double :D What gearing would you recommend? I have a good range of pinions, down to about 15, but only the one spur, which is 87 and obviously too high. I'm going to buy some spurs, but what would you recommend?

Basically, I want a nice setup for next weekend, so I can try to kick a few buggies off the track ;) (mixed race)

[pudder]

87 is a good spur to use on the T3. All of the guys I know use that one. I have never played around with spurs because there is really no point when you can just change the pinion.

I would try out a 16 tooth pinion for starters. That is what I use with my Corally 12 turn on my track.

Have fun trying to kick the buggies off, it is easy to do, just that they are usually faster than trucks it might be hard to catch them. :)

[RCGuru1]

So is it worth it to buy a T3 now or should I jus wait for the t4? I have a chance to get a good Factory Team T3 at a good price so I was wondering what u guys thought. Are the parts similar or mostly interchangeable? Your thoughts would be appreciated.

[pudder]

I would go for it. The FT T4 won't be out for a LONG time, and besides, the truck is only as good as the driver. To your question about parts interchangability, most, if no parts will be interchangable. They are totaly different platforms.

It is your choice, but if I were you I would take the FT T3 right now, and maybe in a year or so when the FT T4 is out, you can get that. :)

[FSU427P]

Associated is saying that the T4 will be out by the end of this month, but I agree with pudder. Right now the T3 is still very competitive and will be so for at least another year. Even though I'm getting a T4 at the end of this month, I will still race my T3 frequently, heck, I might race both trucks on the same weekend!

[pudder]

Ya, the only thing is if you buy the T4 now, you won't have the FT parts. I am not sure if all of you don't care about this, but I sure know I would want all the FT stuff right away. Mostly because it is expensive for me to upgrade with Canadian prices being high for stuff like this. :(

[FSU427P]

Even down here in the states, that's the hard way of doing things. All of the FT parts will be availible when the T4 kit comes out, but you must purchase them seperately, and if you want a full FT T4, it's gonna cost twice as much as the FT kit that will be released within a year.

[pudder]

Exactly my point, being which I would wait the year or whatever, buy a FT T3 now, then buy the FT T4 later on. Plus, you can always sell your T3 later if you want, or keep it around as a basher, or even race it once in a while. :)

I will probably do the same with the B4. I bought a B3 in spring time even though I knew the B4 was coming out. Though it may be a "better" buggy, I still say my driving can improve before I need a better vehicle, and by the time the FT B4 comes around I will be ready for it. :)

[xtrout]

Hey all, anyone know of a battery charging chart on the web? I am looking for optimum charges amps for 2400 NiCds and 3000 Nimhs. I tend to charge them at around 6 but I think thats a little high.
Thx,
Clint

[k_sw31]

I charge all my batts (3300s-1500s) on either 5 or 5.5 amp settings. :)

[RC10's]

Everything I have read said NIMH batterys should be charged at lower amps like 4 or less. Some people say charging at higher amps gives you better peak voltage and less run time and lower amps is better run time less peak voltage.....Several people I know swear by this technique.....Good luck.

[Deviant]

Ok, wrong thread, but he started it! *points* :)

Whats a good charger? I'm looking for something that will charge two packs at once of anything (I have 2400 NiCads) up to 3300NiMH.

I have on order a Yokomo YZBCS (http://www.modelsportuk.com/v20020702/dynamic/ms_dynam_20020702/main_page.php?PageName=Power&PageRef=list_products.php?CategoryID=441&ManufacturerID=64). (I can cancel the order if needs be).

Anyone have any recomendations?

I'm also looking at this (http://www.mtroniks.co.uk/discharger.htm) discharger from M-Troniks. I don't seem to be able to find a great deal on offer over hear in the UK :( Any suggestions on this?

[pudder]

I charge my batts a 5 amps. All my batts. 4-5 amps is a good range.

About the charger, look at some of the LRP and Novak models. I am not sure if either of them offer a charger that will do two packs at once, but they are really good quality chargers.

If you are looking into a charger ONLY that does two packs, I can tell you DON'T get the DuraTrax Intellipeak dual peak charger. My friend had one of those and it gave him and me nothing but trouble. We ended up smashing it on a street after the capacitors blew up inside.

[xtrout]

Thanks for the charging tips all! I was wondering why my batteries got to hot on the charger and didnt last long. I was charging them at about 6 amps.

[pudder]

It's not only the amp rate that will make your batts hot, but it is also the cutoff rate that your charger has. NICD batteries need a higher cutoff rate than NIMH, so make sure you are on the rite mode (deppending on your charger)

Good luck.

[mj_bandit]

Anyone of you T3 Owner's wanna sell me a your T3 as a Roller? Thanks.. :D

[mj_bandit]

Anyone of you T3 Owner's wanna sell me a your T3 as a Roller? Thanks.. :D

[Deviant]

Anyone got any links to places for extra hop-ups/trick bits for the T3? I have the factory team kit, and I'd like to basically upgrade whatever I can (well, within reason). For instance, I'm replacing my shock caps with aluminum ones...

Are the Lunsford hingepin sets worth buying, considering the FT kit is sposed to have titanium hingepins?

I've seen a blue aluminum Trinity rear brace, and a front bulkhead too somewhere, its just I can't seem to find anything easy to get hold off (I'm in the UK).

But appart from fancey looking blue stuff, is there anything mechanical that'd be worth upgrading? I;ve seen a titanuim topshaft from Robinson Racing which looks intresting. Also a lightened blue slipper kit which looks good...

Anything else worth looking at?

Any links would be great :)

[FSU427P]

I too have the Factory team kit, and the titanium top shaft from Robinson Racing is a must. It gets you snappier acceleration. I also installed Lunsford titanium turnbuckles. They are beefier and stronger than the blue titanium turnbuckles that come with the kit.

[ViperStrike]

I'm going to sell my T3 as a roller.
It was an RTR but I upgraded everything on it.
I just need to rebuild the diff before I sell it.

[RC10's]

The best T3 upgrades come from RPM, like rear A-arm mounts, front bulkhead, front and rear bumpers, gear cover, and A-arms if you arent gonna race. they also have universal fit things like shock clips and cups and ball ends. The robinson top shaft, idler gear, diff and outdrives are all nice pieces but not totally neccesary. The new crowd pleazer bodys from proline look pretty good too...

[Deviant]

I'm still in 2 minds about the crowd pleazer body... At first I really wanted one, but now they are fairly common... still, look better than the average truck body I guess...

[FSU427P]

I personally like the GMC Sierra body. I think it looks better than the Chevy that comes with the FT Kit. I haven't tried a crowd pleazer yet.

[pudder]

I have the Crowd Pleazer body for mine and I like it a lot. I find it is a bit thicker than the other GMC and Chevy bodies as well, and I like the look of it better than each.

Here is a pic of it:

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05156.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05157.JPG

[pudder]

Oh ya, I raced my T3 on the weekend too. The first qualifier was ****** because I put my battery in the wrong way and the wires came disconnected. The second and third qualifiers went good, I placed first in them I think... maybe second? And the main was great. I placed second because one screw up near the end, but it was a good race. My poor old MVP just didnt feel fast for some reason, I think it needs some new brushes and a comm cut... oh well. :)

[aspiringrcracer710]

nice ride pudder. Hey, you wouldnt happen to know what to use to disassemble the shocks would you? Id like to knowso that once I get some new oil for my stuff, I can fiddle with settings a little better

[k_sw31]

Disassembling associated shocks is pretty simple. Basically you unscrew the top cap and pour (it helps to move the piston up and down while you do this) the oil out. Next spray the inside with motor cleaner or brake cleaner, now simply refill the shock with new oil as directed in your manual. :)

[pudder]

Just as he said. :)

[aspiringrcracer710]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Disassembling associated shocks is pretty simple. Basically you unscrew the top cap and pour (it helps to move the piston up and down while you do this) the oil out. Next spray the inside with motor cleaner or brake cleaner, now simply refill the shock with new oil as directed in your manual. :)

Ive been trying that but the top cap isnt moving. Ive tried screwdrivers, Ive tried the included tool, Ive tried everything short of putting the top cap in a vise

[k_sw31]

Well, that cap must be on there pretty tight. Start by putting the hexangonal part of the shock body on the opposite end of the largest hex driver (the plastic ones) and put the screw hole through the end of the medium hex driver. Those caps can get on pretty tight. If worse comes to worst, put the shock body in a vice, and use some heavy pliers (careful not to damage the screw hole) and try and unscrew it that way.

Hope this helps. :)

[pudder]

One thing you can do is use some pliers on the top of the shock body, and put a hex driver, or screwdriver shaft through the caps hole. Hold the body with the pliers and turn the screwdriver and it should loosen. That is what I do when I tighten mine too hard. Just to let you know, when you put them back on, don't use tools to do it. It should only be tight enough you can barely get it off with your hands. Using tools really is risking stripping it. I always put mine on hand tight and have never had a leaking problem.

[paulct]

Ok, I've made the plunge, and will be building my new T3 Team kit over the next week or so!

I am a bit clueless as to selection of pinion. I'll be using a Chameleon 19T motor, Novak Rooster ESC.

Can you gurus recommenda a good starting pinion size?

Tnx

[k_sw31]

Well, start by buying some pinions ranging from 16-20 teeth. I would say throw a 18 tooth in and go from there. If you are running to hot then gear down a bit, if you want more speed gear up. :)

While your picking up those pinions, pick up a couple of extra 87 tooth spurs. It is always handy to have some extras if you accidently set your gear mesh too loose, and strip it a bit (or get a bunch of dirt in it).

[pudder]

18 tooth is good. I ran a 17 tooth at practice at my track on the weekend with fair results.

[RC10's]

Having a good selection of gears is nice so you can change depending on track conditions. Spare spur gears is a good idea too as they arent too hard to kill. Do yourself and get the RPM gear cover to cover up those gears, its a nice piece and keeps stuff out way better then the junky stock one.

[paulct]

Thanks all. I ordered the bolink set from tower. Has a whole range. I would guess, based on what seemed like a great price, they can't be the best pinions around, but enough to get me started, and when I find the right gear, I can get better ones.

Is there a scientific way to know if I a running too hot, BEFORE I melt something?? I've heard the rule of thumb is being able to touch the motor for 5 seconds and not burn yourself!

Appreciate the info on the RPM cover too.

Paul

[pudder]

RPM one has been doing me good for over a year now. I actually broke the stock one off a bad jump landing. :rolleyes: