Associated RC10T3 v2.0

[k_sw31]

The RPM gear cover is a must, I have had mine for a few years and after tons of abuse it still works fine.

If you are that nervous about riuning something, the best I can do is reassure you that with an 18 tooth you will not cook anything. But, you can pull the truck off after about 2 mins of running and make sure it is just warm to the touch. Basically if you cant hold your thumb on it for a few seconds, gear down.

[LearjetMinako]

I have a question for you guys. What kind of motors do recommend for stock and also for mod racing. I'm new to this fourm but not new to the T3 (owned it since 1998). It is originally a RTR with bushing but I'll replace those soon with a ball bearing kit. I love this truck, never broke a part but I do lose parts (e-clips, nuts, screws).

[pudder]

For stock, the Reedy MVP, P2k 2 pro, or Revenge of the Monster Pro are good motors. Between the P2k's and the MVP, I like the MVP best. Though I havent tried the Revenge of the Monster Pro, I have heard it is an excellent motor and will probably purchase one this fall for onroad.

Modified there is a wide variety. If you are going to be getting into modified racing, the Reedy Ti's or KR or Trinity D5's are good motors. Corally also makes some really wicked mods, which I personally like one of the best, but most places don't carry them.

If you are going to just be bashing modified, get something like the Speed Gems series.

Just remember for motors, you get what you pay for.

[LearjetMinako]

I already own a D5 12t, P2K2 pro and non-pro, and revenge of the monster. I mostly race in stock and mod 4wd sedan touring (I race the TC3). So basicly, I'm already set-up with the right motor for stock racing. But what pinion size should I use for stock? I currently have 18t, 24t, 26t, 28t, & 32t size of pinions.

[pudder]

I like 17 for my MVP, so try the 18 on the Revenge of the Monster Pro.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Hey, Im using the stock spur. whats a good pinion for the GM3? Im getting it worked on by a friend of mine

[pudder]

For racng, try a 17.

[RCDoon]

Ok I see you all are talking about Gearing the Monster, I am still having trouble gearing this motor correct. No matter what I try it is burning up after 3 or 4 minutes. I now have a 90T Spur and a 17T pinion and it gets way too hot. Anybody else here using a T3 with a monster pro, What Spur and pinion do you use ? Thanks for the help

RCDoon

[LearjetMinako]

I have the same problem with all my motors. No matter what gearing or motor, they still get so hot that it can't be touched until it cools off. I never had this problem before or with my TC3. But bigger wheels do take more effort to turn. It could be normal (I hope).

Still trying to find a LHS that carries a BB kit. If I can't find one, I'll the one from Tower Hobbies that is made by Duratrax.

[pudder]

Make sure there is no extra friction in your drive line. As well make sure that your motor is shimmed in the "hot spot" and that it has a small amount of play on the motor shaft so it can slide a fraction of a mm either way to make sure it will spin without any unnecessary friction.

[bomber 1]

Hello every one i am new to the t3 forum i have a FT T3 and i plan to race it very soon. i used to run electric but know i run nitro but im getting into electric now. i was wondering a recomendation for an esc, motor and what pinion. i will be running stock and its my first time racing. i don't want to spend a lot of money i was thinking of a novak ESC and a p2k2 pro. thanks guys

[k_sw31]

The novak dually is one of the most reliable, cheap esc out there. It features no turn limit and stock and mod modes. At 90$ its a bargain, plus it has the best costumer service around. :D

For what motor to use for stock racing it really depends on your track size, but this is what I have heard.

P2K2= Tight tracks, lots of twisties and a short back stretch
Reedy MVP= Medium size tracks
Revenge of the Monster= Larger tracks (highest rpm motor)

With those three motors I have heard great things about each, so you should be pretty well off to start. :)

[brittonlj77]

Anybody seen any price drops on T3 RTR Electric kits since the T4 is about here?

My wife is thinking about getting into it too.

[microrcdude]

yeah, the kits are gettin' real cheap. so is the RTR

[pudder]

I raced my T3 sunday, ran really good. Motor is just too slow for the truck, needs a tune up, but I still ran 2'nd most of the day. The main I had a bad start and ended up taking 3'rd.

[RC10's]

Ive seen the RTR as cheap as 209.99 which is a hell of a deal considering what you get.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

my friend put an order for FT T3 from tower this morning.
He also bought, 2phka with mc230cr and a s3003 digital piranha peak charger and peak emaxx batts (the ones with 2 pairs)

I was wondering,
does ft t3 kit come with a pinion?
if not, what should he run?

[k_sw31]

It doesn't include a pinion. What # of teeth he will need depends on the motor he will be using...17tooth is a good starting place for most motors though.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

oops,
i forgot to mention,
He also got 27T monster hp pro motor

[k_sw31]

In that case I would say go a little high, maybe try a 20 tooth. But, I would suggest picking up a selection of gearings, maybe 16-22 teeth pinions. :)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

will 19t pinion make the motor overheat?

We are just going to be jumpuing and bashing.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

o and ftt3 with the revenge motor will be faster then an evader with a green machine 2, right?

[LearjetMinako]

I would be careful with a 20t pinion installed. I got one for the T3 with a P2K2 stock motor, well I pushed the motor too far. It ended up driving with a trail of smoke behind it. The motor is toasted.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

ah...
i guess i will go safe and suggest 18 to my friend then

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

there will be no other suprises right?
nothing else that my friend needs to get?

[BCat125]

I have had my t3 for 3 years now and i have only broken two different types of parts ever. This is the best truck i have ever had. I went up to Ohio for the NR/CTPA worlds and set the record for the 2WD long jump.
I also bring it to monster truck shows and take it off ramps.
Here are some videos and a picture
T3 doing a backflip
http://eastcoastrc.com/wecrc2758.JPG
About to crash
http://eastcoastrc.com/wecrc2759.JPG
Small ramp
http://eastcoastrc.com/wt3cars.MPG
http://eastcoastrc.com/wt3cars2.MPG
Big ramps
http://eastcoastrc.com/T3%20RampFlip.MPG
http://eastcoastrc.com/T3clears5cars.MPG

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

my friend's T3 still hasn't came from the mailman :(

[KandL Racing]

I just got my first T3 Sunday, it's a used one, in pretty nice shape though. It's FT model came with 4 motors and 1 battery. I haven't completely inventoried it yet, but there is a 12turn mod and a P2K2? Pro I think. No spare parts to speak of, but from what I hear I don't need to stock up on much. Maybe some different gears for the different motors?

I've been running a GT for 2-3 months now, so I do have parts for it, which most will probably work on the T3 if needed.

[pudder]

If you are going to buy some spare parts, it would be good to buy the RPM rear a-arm mounts, because the stock ones will probably break. That is about all I can think of for parts. You should also get pinions ranging from about 13-21 tooth, and an extra spur or two can't hurt.

[paulct]

I am having some problems with the ride height on the rear of my RC10T3. Its a Team kit, and its been assembled exactly as per the instructions. Using the Green springs that came with it, and the suggested shock spacers.

when I press down on the rear, it will not bounce back to "bones level". Its still dropping. The front bounces back exactly as it should.

There is no binding in the arms. with the shocks removed, everything seems smooth.

Any ideas? Thanks!

Paul

[pudder]

Unless you are racing, put more spacers in so it sits bones level. For racing, it is better to have a lower stance. What I do is put enough spacers so the spring at its full length and not compressed by spacers at all. Ya, you do bottom out over higher jumps easier, but the handling you gain is worth it.

[paulct]

Thanks Pudder. I tried some extra spacers, but that started to compress the spring when it was sitting on the wheels.

If you drop the truck from 6 inches or so, it will come to rest bones level, its only when you fully press it to the ground, it won't come up.

So are you saying, leave the wheels hanging, and then start to put in spacers until the spring is just starting to compress?

I am thinking of trying a stronger spring too, but I don't want to get the thing totally whacked so it drives wierd!

Paul

[pudder]

"So are you saying, leave the wheels hanging, and then start to put in spacers until the spring is just starting to compress?"

Yes, that is exactly what I mean :) However, you will probably only want to do this if you are racing, for basing the bones level idea is good, then put as much spacers in as you want until it sits bones level. :)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Sweetness!!!
My friend received his FTT3 today!!!

so niiiiice...
We build the front end and part of the rear end.
We just started on the stealth tranny but i had to go!
we are continuing tommorow or on friday!
then it is super speed running time!!!
yahoo!

[RC10's]

I've been running a GT for 2-3 months now, so I do have parts for it, which most will probably work on the T3 if needed.

The GT and T3 parts are not interchangeable. I cant think of any piece that is the same besides wheels and tires. Shocks, turnbuckles I suppose but things like A-arms shock towers and major chassis parts are not the same at all.

[KandL Racing]

Originally posted by RC10's
The GT and T3 parts are not interchangeable. I cant think of any piece that is the same besides wheels and tires. Shocks, turnbuckles I suppose but things like A-arms shock towers and major chassis parts are not the same at all.

Well, ok most of the big things won't interchange, but ball cup ends, screws, etc. will work as well. So some of the spare parts are taken care of :). Thanks for the info though!

[RAYMAN1OO7]

hey, how much do you guys think i could sell my t3 factory team for it is like brand new, and will come with everything it came with in the kit but with one spare set of wheels and tires glued. so i can get the new t4, or do you guys like the t3 better?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

man,
we are almopst finished building the FTT3

one of the screws that are for the shocktower to hold the shock is messed up. It is missing a head and the thread is all screwy...

I have some questions.
Do you guys get some what play between the CVD axle and the hub?
Right now, there are 2 thin shims >hub > 1 thick shim >pin

And also, are you suppose use the blue screws wherever we want?
I mean, they just supply them and do not tell us to use them.
Should we not use them since they are weaker?

We can not find the part 7373 which is suppose to be a "gasket" that goes between the motor plate and the gearbox, what does it suppose to do?

On the CVDs, should we grind a flat spot before we run?
Or risk few runs and run it without a flat spot till we come over to my house for the dremel.

We were short one sponge thing that goes over the ball-ends, are they suppose to be 1 less (like you are not su ppose to put one on the servo saver that is closest to the servo?)




This thing looks great so far!
Help me on those Qs when you guys get the time,
Thank you!

[pudder]

About all of the defective/missing parts, contact Team Associated and they will probably replace them and give you some free stuff. You can find contact info at www.rc10.com.

The Missing gasket thinger for the gearbox and motor plate is justfor keeping dirt out of the bearing and gears. It would be good to have before you run the truck.

Yes, I did have a little bit of play in the CVD where you have it, as long as it is just a little bit, don't worry about it.

As for the foam washer things for on the ball studs, I put them on all of them, it is best to.

You can put the blue screws wherever you feel like. I wouldnt worry about them breaking since I have never had them break on me and my truck has gone through a good beating.

However, I don't know what you mean by "grind a flat spot" on the cvd's. You dont need to grind anything on them as far as I know. Let me know what you meant in a bit more detail and I could probably help you out.

I hope what I have said is okay information, post back if you need anything else :)

[k_sw31]

I think you are talking about the cvd pin that the set screw threads on? For now, just use a very liberal amount of the supplied threadlock and let it sit for awhile before running.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

ok,
i am just scared that my friend will lose the pin, because it would take us like 3 weeks till we get one

Anyways,
we could not put the spongy thing for all the balls,
There is one more ball overall then there are the white spongy things.

If the gasket thing is just suppose to keep the dirt out, we will run it. We only run it on clean surface because we don't have any dirt tracks around here.

Is there a blue screw thing for the shocktower screw?
we did take a quick glance at it, but looked like there was none?

I am going over his house tommorow to finish the kit and run it!
Hopely, i am going to have movies on saturday.

[pudder]

Yes, like ksw_31 said, just use a good amount of thread lock on the setscrew for the pin. I have never lost a pin, and I dont even think that I have ever had one move at all. :)

You can pick up some more foam washer things, they should only be like a dollar for a whole bunch. You should get that sponge gasket thing too, but if you are running on a clean surface, it is not a huge deal.

[RC10's]

My T3 is 4 years old and a few months ago I had the original cvd pin come out, some new thread lock and it was fixed. So dont worry about them coming out, as long as you use the thread lock and let it set it will be fine.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

cool,
here is some movies...
These aren't the best.
The batts weren't freshly charged.
It is still pretty fast i think.

Anyways, we bought the 21T Robinson racing pinion

Aftwer we discharged a whole 2400mah, the batt was warm and the motor plate aread was really warm...(almost HOT)

Is it too high?
The reverse on it is really bad.
I have set it right ( i know that speed controller very well, since i have a same model in my micro for 2 years)
It will not go reverse when the truck is on the ground.
When it's up in the air, the tires spin fast enough to ballon.

At first, we set the slipper at the factory setting, (nut flush with the stud) however, it slipped alot when we gunned the throttle on ashphalt. Later, we tightened it so the spring was all the way compressed (i think? the diff started to slip when we tried to tighten it more)

It still slips for like a foot,
I know that's what it's suppose to do, but should we lock it out?
my other friend's evader who we ran it the same time had not shad his slipper slipping.

I think we should get a smaller T pinion.
the evader with a trinity spec motor (pardox stock) can ecceralte faster down the drive way, but toward the last 1/4 of the road, the T3 starts catching up fast. And i think it would make going revers alot easier? (hopely?) because it BARELY moves.

Any suggestions?

The motor is = Revenge of the monster
The esc is = MC230cr

The radio was set properly and esc was set.
I dunno why we won't go in reverse...

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

oops
here are the movies
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=11087



http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=11088



http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=11089

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

and a chassis pic,
it was taken indoors with flash, so it looks junky...
i think i will take more pics tommorow
http://www.******.net/media/115_1510.jpg

[pudder]

For that motor you should be running maybe 18-19 tooth. Try that. And it is normal for the batteries to be warm after running them. When you hold a finger on the motor, you should be able to do it for more than 4 seconds without burning it, that is how you know somewhat that your motor is at a fair temperature.

[pudder]

Oh, BTW, I dont like the carpet. :p

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

LOL!
k,
we will try to get some 18t at the lhs,
hopely they have them stock.
if not, should we go 17 or 19?

Like the movies?
and can you tell me if the slipper is too loose?
you can hear it in the first movie


thanks

[pudder]

It sounds like the diff is slipping in the first video, not the slipper. THe diff is probably too loose. In the instructions I think it says to tighten the diff screw down, then back off 1/8 of a turn.

Other than that, it sounds alright.

Ya, if you can't get an 18, try a 17 or 19. It is good to have a variety of pinions.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

like, if we can't et 18, should we get 17 or 19?

lol...

Like... can you choose one?
Can't go wrong with 17 eh?

[pudder]

They should have all the teeth available. If anything 17 might be too low, but the only way you will know is trial and error.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

you were right, we tightened the diff and now it's better now.

[pudder]

Good, I hope his diff isn't damaged, slipping diff is real hard on it.

[KandL Racing]

I am having some weird glitching with my T3 and wanted to see if there is any suggestions anyone has. I have checked the wiring, changed radios and receivers. Only things I have not changed is motor and ESC. The ESC is a Novak Fusion, it currenlty has a P2K in it. The problem is glitching, usual stuff, and weird stuff like brakes applying when cranking steering to full.

I bought this T3 used, so I am unsure of what condition it is in, but it looks in good shape. I plan on picking up a new motor today, change that out and see if glitching is fixed, if not then I guess I'll send the ESC off to Novak.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

[pudder]

Your crystals could be fried, your antenna wire could be ripped somewhere inside, there is a lot of possibilities.

Make sure your electronics are well spaced out too, like your ESC is not by the reciever, and so on.

[KandL Racing]

Originally posted by pudder
Your crystals could be fried, your antenna wire could be ripped somewhere inside, there is a lot of possibilities.

Make sure your electronics are well spaced out too, like your ESC is not by the reciever, and so on.

Well, I did change receivers, so that leaves that one out. And the receiver/ESC are on opposite sides of the car. I am going to double check the crystals & wiring this evening and swap out motors. If still having problems, guess I'll see about shipping the ESC to Novak for repairs.

[KandL Racing]

Ok, turning off the fan next to my work table helped a bit! Never thought of that before :), but I still had a little problem with the ESC braking when I used the steering servo. So I swapped servos and all seems ok now. I'll take it out this weekend and test it out to make sure.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

MY friend's FTT3 is glitchy too if you drive it more then 30 meters or so.

new pic,
size of a wall paper
it was much bigger but ****** resized it
http://www.******.net/media/wallpaper.jpg


And here is a movie, i have more, jumping but when we were jumping, the batt was dead...
i will upload and post if you guys want

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=11310

[pudder]

You should maybe get some pics with the body on. I still havent seen any yet.

[KandL Racing]

Below is a list of the 4 motors that I got with the T3 I bought (used). Should I change gears when swapping motors and are these motors any good? or should I just get some new powerplants.

Trinity D3.5 12x2
Trinity P2K 27x1
Trinity P2K Pro 27x1
Racers-Edge Racer-X 15x?

I am assuming the D3.5 is pretty old (since they have D4/D5's now), the 2 P2K's look in pretty good shape, and Racer-X I know nothing about. I currently have 21/87 gears (20 or 21... lost count :> ) with the P2K in the T3 now.

Thanks

[pudder]

You should swap gears when changing motors. There is a gearing chart near the back of the T3 manual I think, it usually has a good reccomendation there.

Deppending what you are using your truck for, I wouldn't worry too much about the motors condition unless you are racing. Take them apart and look at the shape they are in. You will want to look for discolored brushes, commutator, and how even the wear is on the commutator and brushes. If either are discolored, you will need to replace the brushes, and get the comm cut, same with if they are worn down a lot. You could take them to your LHS if you are unsure what specifically to look for, and they may charge a small fee for their services.

Hope this helps a bit.

[KandL Racing]

Thanks Pudder! I did look at the gearing chart in a T3 manual at my LHS. I did not receive one with the T3 itself and the downloadable one at www.teamassociated.com does not have it either. :( But I found a chart elsewhere on the net that looked similar to what I saw the the LHS.

As for the motors, I do plan on racing this truck, but it will mainly be for me to learn electrics with (currently running nitro), then pass it on to my wife or kids and getting me a T4 or similar (actually thinking of a XXXT MFE... /me runs). I've been leary of tearing the motors down, but I'll dive in and take a look :) Thanks for the advice.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

ah...
lol i keep forgetting to make some body shots
since my XXX is here, I will try to take some pics with him...

the body is silver... lol no special paint schemes

[pudder]

KandL Racing- If there isn't one good motor out of all of those, you should get a new good one for racing. If one of the ones you already have is good, you should keep it for racing, and nothing else. I have atleast 1 can and about 5 armatures for bashing at home if I ever want to. I save my good motors strictly for racing. :)

[burritobob]

hey im gonna start racing stock soon with a p2k2. what pinion should i use with an 87 tooth spur?

thanx,
zach:cool:

[pudder]

It would help to know what kind of surface you are running on, what kind of track and stuff like that, but I can tell you to start out at maybe a 18 tooth pinion, and see how it goes from there. I always reccomend people to start at a lower gearing than they may need just so that they don't risk blowing the motor on the first run on the track. :)

[GT Freak]

Hello, Does any1 have a copy of the stelth diff instructions i could see?? im rebuilding my diff, and need them.

[pudder]

It will be in the T3 manual that you can find at www.rc10.com

[GT Freak]

that i have to ORDER! which i dont want to do :mad:

any other ideas :confused:

[KandL Racing]

GT Freak,

You don't *have* to order it, further down the "manuals" page is a link to off-road manuals which goes to this page

Off-Road Parts, Manuals & Drawings (http://www.rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/cathub_offroad.htm)

Scroll down and you will find manuals for the T3 in PDF format

[burritobob]

hey guys (and girls) somehow i melted a spur gear and one of the little screws that hold the spue on came off. is this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2832&P=0) the right size screw? if not, can someone give me a link to the right one or at least the measure of the correct screw?:confused:

thanx, zach:cool:

[RC10's]

The spur gear screws are sold by associated in a pack of 4 with the label "spur gear screws" I do not know the part number for it and I could not find it on Towers site. In the past i have cut 4-40 button heads into the appopriate length. I think the screws you are looking at there are too long and if the screw you use is too long it will push the spur gear away from the slipper plate and the spur will spin out of round and will be eaten by the pinion in nothing flat. Good luck

[pudder]

Look in your T3 manual for the part number of the spur gear screws.

[GT Freak]

:)thank u pudder, youve been very helpful :cool:

[pudder]

No problem. :)

[burritobob]

ok thanks for the help with my problem i found it in tower. just search for 'associated spur gear screws'. the part number on tower is LX2862 if anyone is curious.

thanx,
zach:cool:

[burritobob]

:confused: did everyone die? anyways i got my gearing and stuff set for the p2k2. would a novak elektra(explorer 2) be ok for stock racing?

thanx,
zach:cool:

[pudder]

Ya, the Elektra will be alright for stock racing. I think it is rated for 20 turn minimum, so that is all it's really good for.

[k_sw31]

Yeah, you can pretty much use any esc for stock motors, that elektra should be fine.

And dont worry about running an old esc, the old novaks work just fine. :)

[Nanminator]

Yo
I am nan, the guy who owns the FTT3
i will try to post pics of the truck with the body soon although my body stinks now with lots of scratches.

I am gonna see if i can find pics of the car before i scratched the body.

Thanks


-Nanminator

[WDGuy]

If anyone needs any extra parts for a T3 send a email or Pm this way. I have all the parts you would need for a T3 except, battery strap, servo holder, chassis, and someother things.

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all

I am setting up my T3 for next weeks race. It is on an asphalt lot sprayed with Sugar water. It will have numerous ramps so I am think to setup the car per the manual. Any thoughts? I am using ProLine Dirt Hawg tires and a stock motor.

2nd question - How do you know when to replace the slipper disc?

[RC10's]

If I were running on street, I would not use the dirt hawgs because of there size, they are more off an off-road tire, though pro-line calls them an "all-terrain". I would probably run road rage 2's or road hawg 2's for there low profile street tread. On suspension I would probably go green springs all around with some heavier oil, like 50, to give less body roll in the corners.

[pudder]

Good asphalt setup is red springs all around, shocks mounted to the farthest outward positions, with #2 pistons, and 80 wt oil. You should also put shock limiters inside the shock on the piston so that your truck always is low, and has minimal body roll. It is good to have your truck about 3/4 of an inch of ground clearance with the limiters in the shocks. I used this setup for carpet racing last year and it worked amazing. I also tried it with Pro-Line Road Hawg II's on untreated pavement, worked great.

[Rinkrat99]

Hey Pudder

Long time no see.

I can't go too low cause of the 12-18" jumps. I think it might hit way hard with a low setup.

[pudder]

Oh, well that is too bad. I always race on a flat carpet track. We don't have any jumps. But, I would use atleast 80 wt oil. It may not be the best off jumps, but in the turns it will be nice. You could try red springs too, I'm thinking with the heavy oil the rebound wont be enough to bounce your truck.

Let me know what you think.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

http://www.******.net/media/115_1600.jpg


pics of nan's truck and my buggy.

[pudder]

Eewww! A Lowtec Cripple X! Get it out! Get it out! ;)

[k_sw31]

Just stare at it hard enough and it will break!!!

j/k ;)

[pudder]

Lol! That is a great one! I'm gonna have to use that one at racing sometime!

[aspiringrcracer710]

Well the worlds are coming up in a few weeks down in sunny Florida. any of yall gonna pilgrimage down? I have a marching band engagement that first weekend so I cant go

[brittonlj77]

Hey guys,

What is the main difference between a P2K Pro and a P2K2 Pro? Is it torque vs RPM or something?

Also, anyone who's a had a P2k Pro, do they all come with surface mount caps as they advertise? I couldn't find them on the one I have and thought that might be something "new".

On a different note, I've successfuly suckered my wife and best friend into getting t3's. We had a blast last Saturday crashing all over the track after the races were done.

Lord I suck. (for now) :p

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all,

Where do you reccomend that I mount my transponder? and how does one mount to the car? Is it doublesided tape?

[pudder]

"What is the main difference between a P2K Pro and a P2K2 Pro? Is it torque vs RPM or something?

Also, anyone who's a had a P2k Pro, do they all come with surface mount caps as they advertise? I couldn't find them on the one I have and thought that might be something "new"."

The difference is the P2k has more low end torque, and less top end than the p2k 2, so it is meant for smaller, tighter tracks where acceleration is needed. The P2k 2 is meant for medium, but is good for just about anything.

They both come with surface mount capacitors too.

--------------

"Where do you reccomend that I mount my transponder? and how does one mount to the car? Is it doublesided tape?"

Deppending on your track, but usually you make a hole somewhere in the front window of your body on the truck and mount it in there with a body clip. That is what my track does anyways.

[brittonlj77]

I have a question about my diff.

When I turn one wheel (with the diff being held still) the other wheel spins freely in the opposite direction like it's supposed to.

My question is should there be any play in it? It takes about a millimeters worth of movement before I can feel the diff catch and start spinning the other wheel. That is a millimeter of rotational movement (not sliding movement) estimated from the outer tire edge.

Should there be slight rotational play there or should it immediately engage?

The reason I ask is I have never had to tighten it yet and I wondered if that was an indication that i needed to.

TIA

[pudder]

That is just the space between your cvd and outdrive that causes the play. Dont worry about it.

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all

I am running my first race on Sunday which will be onroad 4min runs with a few 6" jumps and one 18" jump.

I will be using the stock 87t spur and either a Team Orion Core Pro stock motor or my old trusty Reedy DS Motor.

What do you reccomend for Pinions?

I was thinking 19t for the Reedy but that proved to be a bit slow at a ratio 10.99:1

Thanks

[RC10's]

associated reccomends a 20 tooth pinion for stock motors, in my experience it tends to be a little high, but it does depend on the track. I would start with a 19 as to ensure not frying anything.

[Rinkrat99]

Hey RC10

I ran a 19t pinion with the Reedy DS Motor and it was pretty slow. It might be that the motor has seen better days. On sunday I will run 3 classes, Truck (T3) Class 4 mins, Pan car (Tamiya F201) 5 mins, and Touring Car (HPI RS4 Rally) 5 mins. I am using the Tamiya Black can Stock motor for the F201 and should be fine. The Truck was going to run the DS Motor and the HPI the Orion Core Spec (Brand New) but I might swap motors for the races. Do you think 6 to 8 races on the motor in one day will be a bad thing?

[k_sw31]

What turn is that reedy DS motor? You may need to gear it down further.

When your gearing something its best to start low and work your way up. I would say start out with a 19 tooth and go from there. :)

[brittonlj77]

Hey Pudder, do you know if that guy you bought that body with the integrated wing is still selling them?

I tried some searching on eBay and couldn't find him.

[pudder]

I have never bought a body with an integrated wing. I think you are confusing me with someone else. I remember seeing that body, but I dont remember who made it... maybe hot bodies or dahms?

[Rinkrat99]

Th DS Spec motor is 27T single wind with 24d timing

[RC10's]

with those specs the DS should be geared somewhere around 19 or 20. My friend has an old DS in one of his trucks and its pretty unimpressive. Its likely that your DS is slightly used and has weakened magnets due to age and use or a worn com. All of these things, plus the fact that it isnt a great motor to start with, result in poor performance. I would run the new Orion motor in the T3 geared to 19 or 20 and not bother running the rally.

[Rinkrat99]

Actually I found out today that the OFFROAD class is OPEN. Its open to all trucks Gas or Electric modified or stock so I may run my Trinity SpeedGems Onyx 14 double. I should gear it around 16t pinion with a 87t spur for 13:1 ratio.

That way I will have some power for the jumps?!

[Rinkrat99]

Here are the results of my first race in 12 years.

I ran the T3 in an offroad class with a 14 x 2 Trinity motor. I ran against XXXT's, E-Maxx, T-Maxx etc...

Well lets say it was an interesting practice as the car hooked up fairly well for a 50F day. The Dirt Works were working pretty good with decent traction. Now for the race. The jumps were placed in very demanding locations. Most jumps were 6" high. I ran 6 laps with lots of trouble keeping the nose up. I had some wild tumbles end over end maybe 50ft worth. This was all after running all out for a 100ft straighaway then full spedd through the sweeping right hand turn right to a hairpin. Just before the hairpin was a 6" jump which I hit full throttle and WHAM! end over end mutliple times.

I broke the top plate and the servo gears. The store had no parts for the truck in stock so goodbye T3 for the day.

I am now ordering A new Front Bulkhead, Front Top Plate, RPM Mini Bumper and a Factory Front Kickup. Am I crazy or is the standard Front Kickup aluminum?

[pudder]

Standard front kickup and rear chassis plate are aluminum, and are available in both blue and black.

What did you do when jumping that caused you to do endos? What was your approach and how did you handle the throttle in and before the jump? It would be good for you to understand what you did wrong and what you can improve on for next time.

[k_sw31]

To keep from nose diving you might try these tips:

Right before you hit the jump, let off the throttle, once air born give it some juice.

Try thicker shock oil.

I would try the first tip before messing with your suspension settings.

[k_sw31]

On another note, check out what I just found...

http://www.variantracing.com/

[Rinkrat99]

Hey Pudder

I think I hit the jump full speed and let off the throttle in the air and landed nose down and kicked up end over end.

I had trouble all day lining up the jumps straight because the surface temp was cool and the tires were not fully grabbing.

I watched the final 2 races and they all slowed prior to the jumps unlike me! I think the one that may have killed me was the 16" jump and right where we land was a right turn 90 degrees. Also I landed on the PVC corner.

PS - I broke my Tamiya F201 front ssuspension arms right off the third lap and was done for the day too.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

holy shiet!
That is a cool chassis!
how would the body stay on during turning tho?

[pudder]

If you hit it full throttle your back end should have gone down because of the geometrical spinning of the rear wheels. Kinda weird that you went nose down. It could have been your suspension setup too.

[k_sw31]

If you notice, they have a new single front body mount, so it just pivots on that.

Pudder- With the jumps he's talking about, which sound like they are just plywood placed on pavement, they are not smooth to hit at all, so letting off the throttle right before the jump will sorta settle your suspension getting it ready for the jump.

It sounds like all you need to do is give it some gas in the air though.

[msyco]

anyone know if i can buy aluminum hop-ups for my t3 ? like a-arms, shock towers, ect........

Msyco@comcast.net

[k_sw31]

I don't know of any, and you shouldn't need them. I have yet to break a shock tower, I have broken 1 front a arm, and a couple of rear a arms.

[msyco]

ok, thanks, i guess i could make some if i wanted to.

[pudder]

Originally posted by msyco
anyone know if i can buy aluminum hop-ups for my t3 ? like a-arms, shock towers, ect........

Msyco@comcast.net

There are a few companies that make aluminum hopups for the T3. Racers Edge makes an aluminum front top plate, and front hingepin brace. Trinity makes an aluminum rear transmission brace. HG makes a few parts, aluminum spring cups are one I can think of. That is about all of the aluminum upgrades I know of. There isn't really much point to having them though, they are just for looks, but they do look really good.

Here is a picture of my B3. It has the B3/T3 front hingepin brace and front top plate from Racers Edge, as well as the rear transmission brace from Trinity.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04647.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04641.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04645.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04644.JPG

I dont have any of these aluminum upgrades for my T3, just on my B3, but they are interchangable.

[msyco]

ok, thanks

[brittonlj77]

Originally posted by pudder
I have never bought a body with an integrated wing. I think you are confusing me with someone else. I remember seeing that body, but I dont remember who made it... maybe hot bodies or dahms?

Sorry man, I found it. You were right. It was ViperStrike who had it. Here's the link if anyone is interested.
Rattlesnake Body (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3147746702&category=2565).

[Rinkrat99]

Hi Guys,

I am in the process of finishing up an Excel spreadsheet for my 4 cars that have the final drive ratio for each model. It will be much easier foir me to pull-out 1 sheet and look at the T3 and say ok what do I need for gearing.

My question to you is?

What is the max and min Spur size that the T3 takes?
What is the max and min Pinion size that the T3 takes?
If possible, if you could provide Spur 90 takes a 14t to 19t pinion, 87 spur takes a 13t to 23 pinion etc.

Thanks

[pudder]

As far as I know, the largest the T3 will accept is 90 spur with a (I think) 17 pinion. I am not sure what the smallest gearing would be with a 90 tooth spur, I would estimate around 11 maybe? The smallest spur, I think is 69 or 70 tooth needs I believe a 28 tooth pinion for the smallest for it to mesh properly. I dont think you can buy pinions big enough so that there is not enough room to mesh properly. With the 87 spur I believe that the highest gearing is 21-22 teeth, and I am not sure about the lowest.

I hope this helps somewhat.

I worked on my T3 somewhat tonight. I put my new front body mount on, and installed my electronics and new Fantom F404 motor. Maybe I'll get some pics in the next little while. :) I'm looking forward to carpet racing. If my setup is good like last year, I will have no problem with handling, and the new motor will help too. :D

[Rinkrat99]

Hey Pudder,

Thanks for the info.

If I recall correctly, the manual specs a 87t spur with a 20t pinion for Stock 24d motors. If you read the FAQ's on the Associated site, they recc a 22t or 23t for Stock racing. I ranSunday onroad with a 14 x 2 motor, 87t spur and 14t pinion for a 14.91 ratio. I was a bit slower thasn some of the others but I noticed that I was slower in most classes by at least 1 or 2 teeth.

I think what I am struggling to understand is why a specific car/truck has a reccomended STOCK 27t 24d Final Gear ratio that are much diff.

The T3 (87s, 20p, final ratio of 10.44:1)
TC3 (72s, 28p, final ratio of 6.43:1)
RS4 (90s, 30p for a final ratio of 6.30:1)

Now is the T3 diff because of the tire sizing?

[RC10's]

Tire size makes a considerable difference, if youve ever ran a low profile tire like a road rage2 and then switched to something huge like a masher 2000 you will notice a huge difference in effective gearing. So yes tire size is the reason why those numbers are so different

[dagass]

Hey all,

I'm an electric "noob". I've been running nitros for quite some time though. I just bought my son the T3 RTR for his birthday and after running it, I'm shocked at how slow it is. I know it's not a nitro, but I thought the stock T3 ran in the neighborhood of 25-30 mph.

His truck is box stock and I'd say it's running 15-18 mph at best. I know it comes with a 20 turn motor and the ESC will handle an 18 turn at best. Am I missing something in the setup? It doesn't take off very fast and it's top speed is almost laughable. Am I expecting too much from it or does it sound like something may be wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Rinkrat99]

Hi Dagass,

I have a T3 which I run with a stock motor, 87t spur and 20t pinion and the truck runs about the same as what you are saying. Mine came with the Reedy DS motor which was not up to speed with other tradional stock motors. You probably can go up to a 20t pinion and be fine. How hot was the motor when running the 20 x 1 AE motor?

[brittonlj77]

A lot of the speed depends on the batteries too.

I've used cheap packs and expensive packs and there is a definate difference to me.

[dagass]

The motor didn't appear to be too hot. as far as the actual temp though, that I don't know. I've been using the standard Tower Hobbies stick pack that they provide with the RTR.

Are there any inexpensive mods I can do to improve acceleration and top speed? Is there a gearing change that will help? My son is only 9 but he's been driving my 1/8 scale nitro buggy for a while so he knows that his truck is kinda slow and we'd both like it to be a little quicker. Thanks again for the help!

[Rinkrat99]

I would say try the larger pinion maybe a 20 tooth.

The 20t pinion gives you a 10.44:1 ratio and the 18 tooth gives you 11.6

Then try a better Stock motor. I have a Trinity Core motor right now and thats ok

[pudder]

Just buy a better motor. The RTR's equipment isn't really all that great to start out with. The ESC is low budget, motor is slow, and the battery isn't all too great either. But, that is what you start out with. There isn't a super cheap fix to all of this. Make sure that when you are charging your batts that you charge them until they get slightly warm to the touch, that is around when they are at their peak voltage. Other things that will help are better motors, better esc's, better batteries, and better chargers.

[RC10's]

like pudder said there is no cheap solution. Re-gearing will increase acceleartion but you will loose acceleration and run time. My friend bought a trinity speed gems 18 turn motor for his T3 RTR and ran it with a stock speed control and the thing ws reasonably fast with decent acceleration. Those speed gems sell for about 30 bucks so I would try one of those first. Better batteries will also drastically increase performance. Going from a 1500 nicd to a 3300 nimh is like night and day. But good batterys are expensive....so there is a price on speed.

[LearjetMinako]

Speed tricks are not cheap, but there are ways to get more power to the motor. One of the most missed things is that people upgrade the battery, esc, and motor and think that they got it tuned out. But if you add Dean's Ultra Plugs to the battery and motor connections. You will see at least a 10% increase on acceleration because more power is being transfered from the batteries through the esc to the motor and not being transformed into heat in the Tamyia plugs. I've learnt this speed secert the hard way with melting the Tamyia plugs on a D5 12t motor.;)

[dagass]

Thanks for the suggestions! I think I'll grab him a new motor and see where that gets us. Any other motor suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've been looking at the Epic 19 turn as a possible replacement. Anybody have any experience with the Epic motors? Thanks again!!!!

[pudder]

The Epic motors should be prettymuch the same as Trinity ones since trinity uses Epic cans and all that stuff.

I had the Chameleon 2 Pro 19 turn from Trinity a while ago, it was a great motor and I can only imagine that the epic one will be an improvement of that motor.

Give it a shot. :)

[k_sw31]

Yeah, I would say go with a Chameleon 2 pro or an epic 19 turn spec, both are excellent motors.

[brittonlj77]

This may be a very broad question, but how does one go about choosing a mod motor? I know a lot depends on track shape/size and driving style...

Our track is about average length, with some small and large jumps. Two jumps are easily 3 feet tall or more. There are several twisting sections with 1 long straight and 1 medium straight. The twists out-weigh the straights.

The dirt is pretty mixed. There is a light layer of dirt (roughly an inch in the corners, less everywhere else) over some very hard packed ground. The main traffic areas are pretty much free of the loose stuff, but it's really easy to get off the trail.

So... I consider myself an educated noob (second degree noob??) but I find myself accelerating a whole hell of a lot. Especially up those monster jumps using my stock motor.

I'd be comfortable staying in stock, but there are only 2 of us who care to drive stock. Everything else is nitro and electric mod.

So how do you determine the turns you want? Or how many wires?

On a side note: can someone explain what a "blue groove" track is like?

[dagass]

Any recommendations on where to buy the Epic 19 turn Spec motor? Thanks again for all the help and suggestions!

[LearjetMinako]

On the mod motor to choose for what track question. I'll go with a 10turn motor, because that is the lowest turn motor that is allowed in ROAR events (unless they changed the rules again). As for the number of wires (strands), that will depend on kind of condition the track is in. Ex: Single strand motors will offer better acceleration and torque in the lower range of the RPM's. While a higer strand motor is better suited to handle more constant speed (oval, figure 8's, etc) becuase they have the torque in the higher RPM's. All ROAR stock 24* motors are single 27turns. Spec motors are single (I forgot the number of strands) 19turns. Mods are any thing ranging from 7-21 turns and 1-5 strands. But the trick to mod racing is to keep the car running for the 5 minutes. So timing on the motor in the mod racing class is critial. So all in all, I recommend that you go with what you feel is right or pick a D5 single or double 10turn motor for what is descriped of your track.

"Blue Groove Track": Nothing special about it except they pack the dirt down and lightly spary it with water to keep it from breaking up and to dust down. The track is more like racing on road with hills not off road with jumps.

[pudder]

Check to see what most of the guys are running for mods at your track. Myself, I run on a loose track, so I run a 12 triple from CoRally. :)

[BJMFH1.01]

I finally broke down and bought a dremel just so I could enlarge the battery tray to better accommodate matched cells. I don't know why AE made the tray so small. The only packs that fit with ease are stick packs.

It ain't like my packs are all jacked up either. There is no space between the cells and they aren't crooked either. I build all my matched packs with a Dean's battery jig so they're perfectly aligned. I simply don't get it.

Does anyone know if AE fixed this problem in the T4? Am I the only idiot who has this problem?

[jdm3849]

RCCA keeps failing to e-mail me when there is a new post. And when they do they give me multiple e-mails. Getting my T3 up and running after 5 months of downtime:( . Was jumping it real good and broke a few suspension screws. Never seemed to get them fixed. I may have asked this question before: My servo does not seem to center real strong, it makes a buzzing/humming noise after I center the radio wheel, because the servo does not go back to full center. Whaddi do?

[I8A4RE]

Hi guys, qc:

I'm wanting to put some Tmaxx/Savage tires on my T3. I've seen videos of setups like this and really want to try it. Any suggestions on what I would have to do?

Thx

[pudder]

I wouldnt bother with it. You would have to make some sort of adapters for it as well. It wouldn't be super easy to make good adapters. Plus you are forgetting one other thing. The final ratio would be all messed up because of the huge tires. You couldnt even gear it that low, so it is prettymuch pointless.

[RC10's]

The big tires would look cool because of the monster truck feel, but you would have major problems with making them fit and gearing. The TMAXX tires use a hex pattern like the on road sedans and the axles are different sizes too. Like Pudder said you could make it work but it probably isnt worth it. If you want a little bit of a monster truck feel, get some MASHER 2000s from proline, they are a very big tire for the truck.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

my friend has his ftt3 for sale and it is posted under buy/sell/trade forum

It is about a month old.

[pudder]

Here are a few pics I took of my T3 today, all ready for carpet racing. :)

The truck has:

JR XR3 radio
Novak Atom ESC
Fantom 404 stock motor
RPM blue ballcups
RPM blue gear cover
RPM blue rear bumper
RPM blue rear a-arm mounts
RPM blue lower spring collars
Hitec HS-5625 MG servo
Blue antenna tube
Blue RPM Front Skid
Blue RPM nuts
JACO Foam Tires
Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer T3 body
Custom made rear shock mounts

Here are pics:

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06283.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06284.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06285.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06287.JPG

[bomber 1]

Hello every one I have a rtr t3 and i am planning on runnig a 19 turn motor in it what pinion do i need thanks guys

[pudder]

17 tooth should be fine.

[RCisLife]

This is the only info I have:

A guy offered to sell me his RC10 T3 Truck RTR with an extra set of 1400 mah battery, Panda charger, and a small box full of extras (tools, parts etc.) for $90 bucks. He sent me pics of it and it does look in decent condition. Except for the tires being bald.. I want to offer $80 for it.. do you guys think $80 - $90 bucks is a relatively good price for it ????

Please.. any help on this is appreciated.

[pudder]

Ya, sounds like a good deal if the truck is in good shape and everything works.

[microrcdude]

I would buy it!!!

[RC10's]

Does it come with a radio, ESC, motor etc... just cuz the truck a cheap charger and a 10$ battery isnt worth 80-90. JMO

[pudder]

He said RTR with some extras, so I'm guessing it has everything.

[RC10's]

Has anyone ran aluminum CVDs and what sort of luck have you had with them. I recently tore apart a set of them and was wondering if anyone else had has issues with them.

[k_sw31]

I'm running the standard steel ones...and I have tweaked them through some hard bashing, but that is about it.

[pudder]

I'm just running the standard steel ones on My T3 and B3. I wouldnt bother running aluminum ones on the truck because they will get twisted too easily, but I have seen many people run them on B3's with great success, mostly because of their shorter shaft length makes them harder to twist.

[jdm3849]

I run Shiny cvd's on my T3 with sucess.

[RC10's]

Shinys or standard are the way to go...I learned it the hard way, the aluminum ones just looked so cool...

[pudder]

Ya, I'd only get aluminum for buggy.

[WDGuy]

I turned my T3 into a 4x6, Im going to get a Duratrax 8T esc and some 16T's, I need to find a body that is pretty long and that would look good.

[k_sw31]

4x6?

Post pics, please!

[pudder]

Yes! :D

[RC10's]

I agree that we need pics... I would stay away from the duratrax ESC as I have heard lots of bad things about it... are you running dual motors? It sounds like youve added a second tranny and rear end assembly in which case it will be hard to find a body that long...Maybe a T-Maxx body...

[pudder]

Check Parma/PSE for bodies. They make several drag/puller truck bodies, but they would still probably be a bit too long. Also check Bolink out too.

[WDGuy]

Yes Im going to be running dual motors, I think a pulling body would work because overall the truck is 22" long. Its still in the process of being finished, I need to get some aluminum to use instead of the plastic Im using now. I did add a whole rear end assembly, because I had 2 T3's and I thought it would be pretty cool. I will get some pics here soon, but be aware it's not pretty.

[pudder]

Just a few questions:

When you connected the second gearbox, how did you do it? Did you make a whole new rear chassis plate to accept both gearboxes?

Also, how did you brace the second shock tower, did you make a piece that comes up to the bottom of the shock tower?

Just wondering if you did thiese things. If you didn't, your design might not be all too strong though.

[WDGuy]

Now Im making a new template setup out of plastic, Im going to try to make some kind of braces when I get the aluminum.

[pudder]

Cool. It would probably be best to make a tepmlate on a piece of lexan, or paper.

Just for some ideas, you could take the original rear chassis plate, and trace it with the holes, then just add further back as space allows, another part for the second gearbox and suspension arms mounts. From there you could take the peice of lexan or paper and trace it onto aluminum, cut out your design and bolt the pieces onto it.

Just a suggestion for the shock tower brace on the second gearbox, it might be a good idea to make an L shaped brace. The lower part could have about a quarter inch material, with just enough space to bolt onto the rear chassis plate behind the first gearbox, then the upper portion would be drilled to match the 4 lower holes on the shock tower. Easy brace right there. :)

[k_sw31]

I agree with pudder. I'm too damn lazy to come up with an idea of my own. :D

[WDGuy]

I was going to take a piece of aluminum and cut it out to the shape of the first and second rear chassis plate, then drill holes and mount it to the bottom of the (Already on chassis) first rear chassis plate and on the top of the little square piece of the second rear chassis plate, then I would make some braces off of the firt shock tower. I was think of put pulling tires on it, tell me what yall think would look good, and would work good for off-roading.

[pudder]

I think it woud just be easier, and less hack to just make one rear chassis plate, drill and countersink the holes, and cut the little squares out than making another one and putting it over the first one.

For tires, I'd probably use something like a Masher 2000, or maybe IMEX tire, You will want to make sure to leave space between the two rear axles to allow plenty of room for larger diameter tires as well. Also, it would be best to have the same tires all around, this will keep the truck sitting the most level, providing equal grip to the rear tires. :)

Tire choice is up to you though, I'd just take something that looks really good. :)

[WDGuy]

I made my template out of cardboard, all I need to do is go get the aluminum, and cut out the piece. I was thinking of using just one rear chassis plate, but that's goinging to take longer and be harder to make. I should be able to get the aluminum sometime this week. This is the biggest project yet in my 14 years of being on this planet.

[k_sw31]

Street signs!

Possibly the best solution for free, very tough sheet aluminum. Its suprisingly easy to find, just dont steal a road marker sign, especially a stop sign.

Maybe a street sign...that would be good. Whoops, I didnt say or suggest anything now did I?

[WDGuy]

I used to have a stop sign and a MPH sign, Im going to get my cousin to get me to go take one.

[k_sw31]

Word of advice: Do not take stop signs or any other "warning" signs off the road. It is possible to be charged with attempted murder by stealing a stop sign and getting caught.

Just take a street sign (IE "275 parkway ave." signs) that you "found" on the ground after someone unsrewed them from the post. :p

[RC10's]

Thats a pretty crazy ass way of getting aluminum, but hey whatever works for you.......we need pictures of this contraption.:)

[brittonlj77]

I am probably wrong but I thought street signs were steel or something. I'm most likely mistaken.

You may be able to go to your local dept. of transportation and get old signs that were removed from service. It's better than stealing one if you can do it.

One question though, if it's easy for him to bend it into the shape he wants, won't it be easily bent on crashes and jumps? Just curious.

[pudder]

One thing you could to to strengthen it up a bit is put a brace between the two rear shock towers. This will keep the chassis plate from flexing and bending. It's not really hard to think up an easy effective design either. If you need a drawing of something I have in mine, just let me know.

Also, why would you go and ask for a sign, when you could go less of a distance and just steal a nice new one for free :D

Also, ya, street signs are aluminum. They most likely do this because they don't rust like steel does.

[LearjetMinako]

Taking street signs:eek: . Now thats just wrong, but on the other hand, if they are laying around on the road or side. Nobody would notice if its gone. I live in Oklahoma, so alot of street signs do get ran over. All I have to do is pick it up and get lost before the cops get me. Or do what I did one year and have a friend riding in the bed of truck with a chain laso attached to the trailer hitch. Have him laso the sign as we drive by. :D Street sign metal is great stuff to curve out of and strong too. But I think its galanzed steel & not aluminum. Seems too heavy to be aluminum.

[k_sw31]

No, I am pretty sure its aluminum, atleast the stuff I have.

And, from my experience, street sign aluminum is really tough to bend. In order to get a good bend, you'll need a sheet metal break with a sturdy mount.

[pudder]

Well all of the street signs here where I live are aluminum. As far as I know, they are everywhere. Galvanized steel has a different look to it, and it is also much more heavy.

Anyways, street signs work great.

[RC10's]

you guys are crazy...

[k_sw31]

No, just hicks! :D

[pudder]

I as well am a hardcore hick.

You can tell if I hang around people who look like this...

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05236.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05274.JPG

:D:D:D

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by pudder

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC05236.JPG


I dunno, the poop master looks like he's ballin to me! :D

[pudder]

Ya, that's him in wigger mode.

[RC10's]

damn, I was right you guys are crazy...

[pudder]

In the words of BTO: You ain't seen nothing yet!

[microrcdude]

wow! This threat went off topic!!

[k_sw31]

I agree

[RC10's]

yeah it sure did....so anyone here have a T4? Hows it working for you?

[aspiringrcracer710]

My T3 needs some new screws! Im lookin for servo mount screws and motor screws. anybody know the AE part #s?

[WDGuy]

7673, Servo mount screws. And the motor screws are 6515.

[pudder]

Maybe I'll get a T4 when the FT comes around... maybe... My T3 is just sitting there waiting for indoor season.

[k_sw31]

I'm thinkin on a T4.

Sometime within the next few months I'll probably buy a T4, MGT, Xray T1r, or maybe somethin else. I'm still deciding.

Whenever I go to buy something new though, I am gonna part out my T3....because its going to hell. :D

[aspiringrcracer710]

Originally posted by WDGuy
7673, Servo mount screws. And the motor screws are 6515.

Hey I cant find 7673 on their parts listings. I'll ask them if they still have taht or if its under a different part number, but I did find the motor mount screws, thanks a bunch

[RustlerBoy]

hey, ry the lunsfordmotor mount screws. Also, you dont have to use the exact servo mounting screws. Just find some that fit.

[microrcdude]

I like them lunsford motor screws. I'm gonna get some, cause they are sponsoring a race at my LHS. Gotta find some sponsors.....

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by k_sw31
I'm thinkin on a T4.

Sometime within the next few months I'll probably buy a T4, MGT, Xray T1r, or maybe somethin else. I'm still deciding.
That's what i hate about having so much money:p :p :D :p :p

[RC10's]

I wish i could say the same, I want a MGT they are beautiful looking but 500 bucks is a little much.

[k_sw31]

Yeah. I have 300$ sitting in front of me right now.

Most is just in pay checks I haven't cashed though.

For now a MGT is outta the question. I'm leaning towards the T4. But I also need to buy some christmas presents (crunch time!) and I wanna buy some stuff for my computer too.

we'll see.

[jdm3849]

I have the Lunsford titanium motor screws on another vehicle. They work just like any other screw I think.

[pudder]

I have lunsford screws for my Stampede. They aren't anything special. They look okay, and serve their purpose. The only reason I got them was because I lost my other motor screws I had.

[RC10's]

Stainless screws are the only way to go. They can be a little more pricey but will not break on you, better then the rediculously overpriced titanium screw sets from rip off companys like hardcore.

[jdm3849]

I have stainless screws and do not think they are needed. Some people say they are better because they dont rust , but they do.(well the nickel oxidizes(sp). And there is no weight savings because the nickel is slightly heavier than the steel. I run the aluminum screws in low stress area's, and steel in high stress on my T3.

_Mike

[pudder]

I use aluminum usually for however many screws I have. I dont care about the little weight it will save, I just like the blueness of them.

[RC10's]

I have broken enough aliminum screws to never want to use them again. I buy stainless screws from a local vendor pretty cheap.

[pudder]

Here's some new pics of what I will be mainly racing indoor this year.

The truck features:
JR XR3 radio
Novak Atom ESC
Fantom 404 stock motor
RPM blue ballcups
RPM blue gear cover
RPM blue rear bumper
RPM blue rear a-arm mounts
RPM blue lower spring collars
Hitec HS-5625 MG servo
Blue antenna tube
Blue RPM Front Skid
Blue RPM nuts
JACO Foam Tires
Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer T3 body
Custom made rear shock mounts

Heres pics:

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06626.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06628.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06632.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06634.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06636.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06641.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC06642.JPG

[RustlerBoy]

Guys. My friend is selling me a BRAND NEW Airtronics MX-3 ith reciever and crystals for 60 bux!!!!

Anyone here race at TRCR in Tacoma Washington? I am racing tonight. I drive a T3(duh) that is red with lue on the bottom, front rims are white, ack are yellow. Name is Derek

[jdm3849]

pudder- nice T3, is competition alot more close when racing on carpet?

Rustlerboy-that is a great deal.


I am going to the track friday (just for a place to run) and put in my 17t Amber motor, do you think 19/85 is too tall of gearing for it? the track is not very technical anymore.

www.twincityhobby.com ( TCHR ) rustler, when I first read you post i thought you said TCHR.

[pudder]

Ya, carpet racing is TOTALY different than offroad. Much closer competition on a tighter track, setups make a huge difference, more into tuning than offroad. I dont want to spend 600$ on a touring car and only be able to race it once a week a few months a year. T3 I just convert back and forth from winter and summer. :)

If you get chance to race carpet for a season, you should do it.

[jdm3849]

I was going to start carpet racing but then they announced the track was moving and there was no longer going to be indoor carpet. Just indoor dirt.

I have never raced with any of my vehicles, I want to start but I don't know anyone and will not know what to do.

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by RustlerBoy
Guys. My friend is selling me a BRAND NEW Airtronics MX-3 ith reciever and crystals for 60 bux!!!!

Anyone here race at TRCR in Tacoma Washington? I am racing tonight. I drive a T3(duh) that is red with lue on the bottom, front rims are white, ack are yellow. Name is Derek
What is their website, and what are you guys runnin on? carpet, or dirt?

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by jdm3849
I was going to start carpet racing but then they announced the track was moving and there was no longer going to be indoor carpet. Just indoor dirt.

I have never raced with any of my vehicles, I want to start but I don't know anyone and will not know what to do.
Talk to some guys in the pits, and see if they can help you out. Ask the track owner how the races are set up. that's what i did.

[pudder]

Ya, dont worry about getting started, Just hang around the track and get to know what goes on. Luckily I started racing and had a friend that already raced for a while to help me along. :)

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all

I have just gotten my T3 back together after a very large summer crash which broke the front end. I have been running my TC3 lately and noticed that there is a huge difference in the amount of front end slop between cars.

I noticed that the front steering blocks wobble a bit when installed with the hinge pin. HAs anyone used shims to tighten this up?

Secondly, I noticed some play in the steering linkages. IS this normal?

Thanks

[pudder]

A small amount of play is normal. I dont have really any at all in my steering blocks, some between the bulkhead and suspension arms but that is because the parts are getting worn out.

[RC10's]

Slop is fairly common, especially in off-road trucks. The best way to eliminate slop is to replace the plastic parts in the steering, as they do wear over time. I also swear by RPM ball cups becuase they have a much tighter fit then stock plastic ones.

[Rinkrat99]

I already swapped out the RPM Ballcups for my TC3 but haven't had time for the T3. There is no offroad racing in the area and I spent a lot of time playing onroad so it was time to wipe the dust off the good old T3 and play with it during lunch today.

[pudder]

I bought Blue RPM ballcups before I even owned my T3 :D

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by pudder
I bought Blue RPM ballcups before I even owned my T3 :D
Same here, but for my B3

[WDGuy]

I have a question, my pinion gear on my T3 keeps on slipping off of the comm of my 15x2 Team Orion motor, what can I do to stop this.

[pudder]

Loctite the pinion with blue loctite. It will hold on to the max, but will be easy to remove.

[microrcdude]

use small screw threadlock. It's more suited for R/C

[pudder]

Threadlock, loctite, same stuff really. As long as you have the right strength. :)

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by pudder
Threadlock, loctite, same stuff really. As long as you have the right strength. :) Small screw threadlock is made by loktite!

[pudder]

I like rc cars. I like beer. I like women.

[WDGuy]

Thanks, for the help. I wasn't too sure if I should use lock-tite, threadlock or that kind of stuff, because I was thinking it might not want to come off, but thank's again and hopefully I can have someone run me down to the hardware store. I would ride my dirtbike down there but I know I would get a ticket or something.

[pudder]

Just buy some blue strength loctite/threadlock. It is medium strength, will hold good but still come off when you want to.

[WDGuy]

Ok cool, thanks for all the help. I was tired of putting it back on every other minute. I will see if they have a sheet of aluminum, or tin at the hardware store so I can complete my 4x6 T3 project.

[microrcdude]

4x6 t3, can you post a pic!!!

[WDGuy]

I will post many many pics when I finish it all I need now is to get the metal and start cutting and drilling.

[microrcdude]

cool! I can't wait to see it!

[Spraguepsycho1]

My son told me he wanted a inner body for his T3 the other day, for when he runs it in the snow. When I started looking at it I noticed the shape of the chassis pan was very close to the bellypan/body on an old Yokomo YZ-10 I had sitting in the r/c boneyard box. The buggy body fits perfectly under the front shock tower, and if you cut the rear of the body off right before the T3 rear shock tower, you can hold it on with velcro along both sides. I don't know if this body is still available, but there might be a similar buggy body out still, that will fit the same.I just thought I'd mention this for anybody looking for a way to keep snow and mud out of the car and off the radio while bashing. If my daughter wouldn't have taken my digital camera to school and lost it, I could put up some picsto show how it looks.:(

[streetracer]

Well, i just bought a team t3 from some one on this forum, and will be racing it next friday, hopefully, at amian raceway in vancouver. ive had this truck befor and loved it, but did something stupid and sold it. anyway, i will be running a lynx 3d
,monster stock motor, cyclone esc, and a set of 2400's.

i cant wait! havnt raced this truck in ages it feels like.

[microrcdude]

i race at amain too! but, i race stock buggy.

[streetracer]

realy.
wats ur name?
i mite know u.

i should be there tonite to do transponders.
lmk
kyle

[microrcdude]

my name is Kyle too! I will be racing novice at the winter rage.

[streetracer]

Originally posted by microrcdude
my name is Kyle too!

SHibBy!:D :)

[pudder]

Hey guys. Havent been around lately with all the holiday stuff. Been drinkin' and stuff. Anyways I have racing tomorrow so I'll give a day end report on stuff.

[streetracer]

Remember!
Dont drink and drive.
not good for the car or paint job:) :D

[k_sw31]

Thats weird.

My names is kyle too. And I live in washington too, but Im way north of vancouver, I'm near seattle.

[pudder]

Ya, well I'm quitting drinking for at least 6 weeks, maybe more. So then stuff.

[Spraguepsycho1]

My names not Kyle, lol but I live 5 1/2 hrs south of Vancouver/Portland about 45 miles NE of Klamath Falls, Oregon. :D

[streetracer]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Thats weird.

My names is kyle too. And I live in washington too, but Im way north of vancouver, I'm near seattle.

LMFAO!!! thats awsome. Shibby!
you otta come down to amain raceway. ile be driving my t3 with a lynx 3d.

Kyle #1

[pudder]

Had a really good day of racing today.

First qualifier I placed second by an eighth of a second.
Second qualifier I placed first and took TQ.
Third qualifier I placed second.
The a-main I placed 3'rd.

Truck ran good, fast, handled great all day but in the main it started hooking in the turns so that set me back a bit. Other than that I had a great day.

[microrcdude]

^^^Pretty good day. Good job

[LearjetMinako]

Glad to hear that you had a good race. :cool:

[k_sw31]

Hey guys.

Sorry to tell ya'll but I've parted my T3 out and have the auction for everything thats left on ebay.

I'll still be around though.

Check out the auction link in this thread:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=153235

[microrcdude]

I was about to bid on that last night!!! To bad i'm out of money.