Associated RC10T3 v2.0

[k_sw31]

Maxxmtpro-

Yeah, the inner body works good :) I went swamp bogging my self :D

But it still didn't save my Dually from frieing when I tried to hydroplane it :p

jdm3849- Sounds fun :D

[t3customdriver]

Were do i get a inner body,what is the site?

[k_sw31]

Just follow the instructions here (http://homepage.mac.com/pottymouth/t3_underbody/underbody.html)

(you have to build it yourself)

But it only takes 15-30 minutes :)

[t3customdriver]

k_sw31-How do i get the servo to stay on my micro rs4? It keeps moving around, even though it has a piece of double sided tape under it. Any suggestions to hold the servo down?

[Prinler]

Post in that forum. Screw it down. there has to be a way. No way a servo uses tape.

[t3customdriver]

it uses that on a micro

[pudder]

Originally posted by k_sw31
I wouldn't bother re-assembling the front with the blue screws because they snap a lot easier than the black ones, and since the front usually takes the most impact, its a good Idea to have stronger stuff in the front :)

I wouldn't worry about blue screws snapping, you really have to give the truck a beating to do that, which I have never seen through my countless crashes I have had wtih things, almost all of my front end it assembled with the blue screws. :)

"t3customdriver: ok thanks
Does anybody here do carpet racing?"

I WILL be doing carpet racing on Jan 5'th with my t3 until sometime in April. I raced carpet last winter with truck, but that was a different truck I used. If you are thinking about racing carpet, you should give it a try, it is pretty fun. :)

[k_sw31]

Well I sure can snap the blue screws :p :D

[pudder]

Ya, YOU can. ;)

[t3customdriver]

ok thANKS pudder. Where could i do carpet racing around Santa Clara,CA?

[Prinler]

So cal raceway :)

[pudder]

Also, check out the track listings at www.rccaraction.com

[t3customdriver]

What city is the So Cal Raceway?

[brittonlj77]

Construction is coming along pretty well. I didn't rebuild the front and as a matter of fact I went ahead and continued to use the steel screws throughout. If I find that weight is an issue later on I can always rebuild, but they just didn't impress me too much.

I do have a line on some inexpensive titanium screws, but they are across seas and shipping is slooow. That's going to be one of the few hopups I am considering. The others are to eventually lighten up the tranny parts with some titanium replacements someday.

I may be completely alone on this, but I just can't find much on this truck that I want to replace! I know Pudder and some others recommended buying the aluminum tranny brace, but is that actually a real weak link?

The only piece that truly felt like a weakness in the truck is the front bulkhead. It felt like some pretty soft plastic, but that may be by design so it gives before something more important does.

I haven't finished building it yet, but I'm getting close. I'm at the shocks portion. I figure once it warms up and I get some practice in I will have a better feel for what to put my money into.

Anyway, thanks for the help all.

[pudder]

It sounds like you are looking for some upgrades. What version of the truck do you have?

I can tell you, for good looks and to add to the durability, RPM parts are great. I don' t think I have seen a T3 without any RPM parts. Parts available for the T3:
-rear a arm mounts (reccomended, stock are weak)
-rear bumper
-gear cover
-ballcups
-front bumper
-shock nuts&wheel nuts

I think that is it, I have all of the RPM stuff on my truck. RPM parts also come in a few colors, I think Blue, black and yellow.

I would get the rear a arm mounts forsure, I broke one off of a small jump, bought the RPM ones and have never broken another.

[brittonlj77]

Thanks Pudder. I have the FT.

One quick question about ESC placement. I can't be sure, but I swear I heard someone recommend tieing it to the rear shock tower or something. Is that better than the recommended location on the side?? I have a GT7 ESC.

TIA

[pudder]

Put it on the side of the chassis, opposite of the reciever. The reciever side is the one with the antenna mount. You can tell you are supposed to mount the ESC on the side of the chassis because there is a small hole mid way down the ribs in the chassis where the battery goes. Look for them, you run your ESC wire down through that, and to your RX.

Should be something like this:

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02977.JPG

[Prinler]

Britton, Use some Servo tape or something. PLace it on the shock tower. Its a lifesaver..... When you Accidently hit a small patch of water lets say in a grassy field. And the chassis Fills with a bit of water your ESC is literally HIGH and dry. :)

[brittonlj77]

Does the proximity to the receiver make it more prone to glitching when you mount it on the shock tower?

I do think I will be doing a minimum amount of bashing though. Mostly racing and practicing on the track.

[pudder]

In that case, I would just mount it on the chassis. Unless you are going mud bogging, you will be fine with it mounted on the chassis. I don't think it would increase glitching too much, but you are supposed to keep that stuff away from each other.

[brittonlj77]

Hey Pudder, what ESC is that? Is it mounted on it's side?? It's hard to see exactly.

[pudder]

It is a Tekin 411 G2 mounted on the side of my chassis.

[pudder]

Take a look at this picture, see how the ESC wire goes through the slots in the chassis to the reciever.

[t3customdriver]

What r/c car is better for racing,jumping,speed, and has very good hopups? either the b3/4 or the t3/4

[pudder]

They don't have the B4 or T4 out yet so that is out of the question.

The B3 and T3 have basically the same amount of hopups, so that doesn't matter much either.

Generally buggies (like the B3) are better for racing and not bashing. They can go faster than trucks, have more acceleration, are lighter, but they can't take rough tracks as easily as trucks. Trucks are used more for bashing, they are a bit more slow to accelerate and dont have much less top speed than buggies. They are easier to get a good jump with, and will handle bumpy surfaces better than buggies.

[t3customdriver]

ok thanks

[RCfun]

A word of concern Britton, put the ESC wire (the one that goes through the chassis and plugs into the reciever) in the hole first; if you don't, and you go ahead and tape the ESC to the chassis, you won't be able to fit the ESC wire through the hole. Hope that makes sense. :D

[RC10's]

just out of curiousity what have all you guys broken on your T3? In 3 1/2 years i have broken a front bulkhead, 2 rear a-arm mounts, a front body mount and thats it. Im wondering how this truck is holding for other people...

[sledgeU812]

hey guys im new here but to answer RC10's question, ive had my T3 for almost a year and ive broken the stock front bumper, the top plate, blew a bearing, and cracked the rear arm mounts but im still using them. but, i bought my truck used and it was heavily used. also, my friend was driving it and hit the side of his garage and took a chunk out of the right front a arm but it was still good i used it for a little while then took it off and put on a new one and i have the broken one in my box for a spare. also, i am concerned about the factory team screw set. i got one for christmas and i went to put it on and most of the screws r the wrong size so i ended up putting the screws in holes that were too small for them and completely stripping one screw and damaging another. i eamiled AE about it and they showed me this link to a page on their website that was supposed to tell me where all the screws went, but it was so vaugue and i couldnt understand what they were saying. has anyone else had problems with this too and what did u do???

[pudder]

I have had no problems. One broken rear a arm mount, thats it. I replaced it with RPM parts.

[k_sw31]

Lets see- After a good 2-3 years, I have been pretty heavily bashing it, using some pretty hot motors, even brushless :D Heres what I can recall :)

-about 3 broken rear a arms
-1 front a arm
-1 bulkhead
-4-5 top plates
-Rear (aluminum) chassis plate, pure skill :D
- two chassis (where the shock tower mounts) really bad jumps :D
-4 or 5 rear a arm mounts (finally got RPM ones)
-Rear motor plate (hard to explain)
-A few knuckles (f/r)
-Lots of slightly bent hinge pins (till I got ti ones)
-Quite a few bent turnbuckles (need ti ones)
-One or two tranny braces
-One front axel (threads stripped)

Thats all I can recall, except for a few blown bearings :)
BL t3-
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=731508

Broken rear arm (with my brushless)
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=724620

[pudder]

May I ask how did you manage to strip a front axle if the nuts are plastic? Or did you somehow get metal nuts for it?

[k_sw31]

Oh I was using metal locknuts because I was in a place (at hte time) where I was 150 miles from the nearest hobby shop :p

Soooooooo, I went into the local hardware store and found the right size nut, cept it was metal threaded :p

[Maxxmtpro]

i just bought some blue turnbuckles from ae and wondering if you guys had any problems with threading them into the stock ball cups

i took them out and the new ones woulnd screw in

im gettin new ball cups anyways but wondering if you guys had the same problem

finally got my two orders from tower and boy those blue clawz and dirt works look awsome on these trucks

also put on all the stuff from RPM/motor mount/gear cover/rear mounts/front & rear bumper/ i still have to pick up some connectors for my P2k pro but that should be on soon

[pudder]

Make sure that you are tightening them on the right way. I have never had problems threading the titanium turnbuckles from AE

[Mystracing]

I've been racing a T3 every weekend, 8 months out of the year, with a few breaks since the T3 was released (about 6 years ago I think), I'm on my 4th ar 5th truck (lost count) and I've broken about everything except the chassis aluminum plates and tranny housing. Never broke an RPM steering block but many of the stock blocks in the early days before Associated changed the plastic. I tried the RPM rear a-arm carriers and they are stronger but far from bullet proof; if you get loose and smack a rear wheel against a barrier in mod class, so I just run the stock ones because they're cheap, and not as bad as they used to be before they were changed to the newer style. I've broken more rear a-arm carriers than I care to count though. I'm not saying the truck is weak, I break it very seldom but we are talking 6 years or so of racing.

[pudder]

I raced yesterday. I had the worst setup for the first two races, and am starting to get things worked out now. For next weekend I will try some different springs, as well as lower the truck by placing tubing inside the shocks.

I think I placed last in the first two races, or somewhere near. The first race I got a hung brush somehow, then my antenna tube came out, but I pulled around and got a not too great 3'rd in the a main. Once I get a setup I'll be expecting myself to place better, but I am having a riot now!

[t3customdriver]

Does anybody want to buy a p2k pro off of me? You can reccomend the price, if it is reasonable i'll make the deal. I'll accept cash in the mail only. It already has the wires connected and soldered to it. E-mail me bak or post a reply if you are interested.

[Se_12alty]

hello fellow T3 owners. I have a question that may have been asked already. can someone tell me if the graphite front shock tower will fit my T3 from an RC10GT? thanks alot.

[aspiringrcracer710]

t3customdriver- 10 bux

[pudder]

No I don't think the shock tower will be interchangable Buy a new one for your truck if you need to.

[k_sw31]

Se_12alty- No I'm 95% sure you cant, although the two trucks are similar (I own both, selling my gt), the have almost no parts in common, they are each unique ;)

[t3customdriver]

Does anybody want to buy a p2k pro for $20?

[k_sw31]

Try the b/s/t forum ;)

[pudder]

Originally posted by t3customdriver
Does anybody want to buy a p2k pro for $20?

Well figure your price deppending on how much it has been used, is the comm freshly cut, how many times it has been cut, how clean it is, how good the brushes are, ect. If it is almost new, I would pay 20$ (if I were to buy it), otherwise I'd pay maybe 10$ if it is well used and doesnt come with brushes, or worn down brushes, and a driven comm.

[t3customdriver]

ok thanks

[brittonlj77]

After some radio trouble, some electronics experimentation and just getting around to it, my T3 is finaly finished. I still have to paint the body but it's too cold to do that right now. ;)

I have a few brand new stock motors that I need to break in. I was using a cheapy stick pack that I split in two to break one in and I noticed that it was arcing a little inside. Is that normal during break in? I remember hearing that arcing is bad for the brushes and the comm.

Also I know for a fact that my mesh is too tight, but I just can't get the motor to go further back. I'm using a 20 tooth pinion and the stock spur with a stock motor (it looks like the can on the P2k but it's called Da Ripper). What should I do?

Thanks all.
Britt

[pudder]

Are you sure you can't get the mesh any looser? You must be using the wrong set of motor screw holes on the vehicle if you look at the motor, you can see that there is two sets of screwholes, try out the other ones and that should fix he problem. Also make sure that the two screws that holed the motor gaurd and rear chassis plate right on the back arent hittitng and motor and preventing it from moving back any further. :)

[k_sw31]

Little sparks are common to see between the brushes and comm, you will always have them.

But if they are large sparks extending beyond the brushes and comm, that is arcing, it can happen when you are breaking them in...

[trxstr1961]

what kind of tires would be goos for parking lots?? would foams work ok??

[jdm3849]

Pro-Line Road Hawg II's. They look really cool and are very sticky.
Don't bother with foams for a parking lot because with aggressive driving they will chunk. And they will end up burning a hole in your pocket after a while. Unless you get a tire truer(sp).

[pudder]

I second the Road Hawg II's. I have some, they are good tires. Foam tires are for carpet racing.

[k_sw31]

Yeah, go for the road hawgs or any other street tire (rubber) made by pro line :)

[pudder]

Road Hawg II's are dead sexy!

[Se_12alty]

Originally posted by pudder
Road Hawg II's are DAMN sexy!

I second that notion!

[k_sw31]

And I third it!



I also start the motion that I am dead sexy :D

[AznJunkie]

okay this is turning into a post ***** thread, lets stick to the script.... uh i mean T3. :D

[k_sw31]

Nothing wrong with a few extra posts :D


Ok, I need a new chassis (look a few pages back and you know why :p), so are there any places I can pick one up (I want the plain composite XL one) for pretty cheap? (Right now I'm looking at getting it from tower)



PS- I am dead sexy :p

[Se_12alty]

This morning we had some frost on the roof but around 1ish the sun was out and the temp. was in the 70's. Pics well tell rest:

[Se_12alty]

having croping and posting the other two. it was great though, my friend and i built a ghetto ramp it is about 16" high, 2' wide and about 4' long. i have a t3 w/ 19turn trinity chamelon(sp) motor stock front tires and proline speed hog's front. my friend has a evader st stock motor and some other goodies. i'll post more pics when i finish croping them. :)

[k_sw31]

this sure is exciting, all the replys and such

:p

[RC10's]

just thinking the same thing, the other T3 forum seems to be more active

[RC10's]

I run a 12x2 Orion Chrome touring modified in my T3. the other day i noticed the back plating was loose so i tightened it back up and the motor and speed control got very hot. so i took the back plate off completely and cleaned everything, resolderd all my connections and it still got hot but not as hot. Then today it stopped working completely, i pushed it and it started to work but went extremely slow at full throttle then stopped and it has not worked since then....... I dont know motor internals well enough to even know where to start solving the problem...any theorys or suggestions would be nice....the brushes are new and are making contact and the speed control is good. dont know what to do now....????

[pudder]

Why do we have 2 T3 forums?

[k_sw31]

Because that proves the T3 is best :)

[pudder]

I guess so.... Losi doesn't have two XXXT forums. ;)

[kilrbzz]

Just got a T3 team. I've been racing a B3 for almost a year now. I'll be racing the T3 in modified. What are the most common parts for breakage that I should bring with me to the track. Thanks.

[pudder]

Look at my post in the other T3 forum.

[Se_12alty]

my rear bulk head was a common in my first month of trashing and my front bulk head broke recently hitting a boulder by accident. (dun ask maybe the radio glitched on me). other than that i wouldn't know what you may need for race replacements.

Originally posted by kilrbzz
Just got a T3 team. I've been racing a B3 for almost a year now. I'll be racing the T3 in modified. What are the most common parts for breakage that I should bring with me to the track. Thanks.

[Maxxmtpro]

hello again all tis the first run with my new novak explorer 2 in my t3 and i put in a farely brand new shark 1500 and took it out side and my truck lasted about 2 min

before any of you say discharge your battery i will say that i discharge after every run

and also im running the stock 20 turn motor that comes with the RTR version

anybody know what could be the problem here please let me know

Thanks
Dan

[Maxxmtpro]

hello again all tis the first run with my new novak explorer 2 in my t3 and i put in a farely brand new shark 1500 and took it out side and my truck lasted about 2 min

before any of you say discharge your battery i will say that i discharge after every run

and also im running the stock 20 turn motor that comes with the RTR version

anybody know what could be the problem here please let me know

Thanks
Dan

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/readers_rides.htm

[k_sw31]

Well, what is the voltage reading on your pack, when it is fully charged it should be around 8.1-8.2 ... i think

You may have a bad cell, the sharks suck :(

[Maxxmtpro]

lol im not sure for voltage but i have 3 sharks and the fisrt one i ran was great i had lots of run time

[k_sw31]

Well, try running your other pack, see what that does, if its like the last one, then there is probably something screwed wiht your charger...

or, if it runs great, then you have a bad cell in that pack most likley ... :(

[pudder]

Originally posted by Maxxmtpro
lol im not sure for voltage but i have 3 sharks and the fisrt one i ran was great i had lots of run time

It looks like you still have bushings, that is most of your problem.

[Maxxmtpro]

lol yea i do still have bushings but i still ran way longer than 2 min on each charge

[Maxxmtpro]

the battery is brand new ive only used it twice what you think i should do if my other new pack runs fine

new battery is on charger now

Dan

[kilrbzz]

Need a new Chassis. Can someone tell me the difference between the long chassis, standard and short for the T3. Thanks

[k_sw31]

Get the longer one, it offers more battery positions for better handly or more rear traction. A lot more tunability and space there :)

[pudder]

I would just get the standard... standard Graphite that is ;)

[kilrbzz]

I've heard composite is stronger. Is the graphite that much lighter?

[k_sw31]

The graphite will be stronger and lighter, and more rigid. I personally found the graphite caused a lot of interferance wiht weaker AM radios...my MX-3 solved that :)

[ibanezcollector]

does anyone know if someone makes replacement arms besides AE, all the rpm ones I see say T,T2,GT no T3..

Im looking for anything other than AE A-arms..

thanks all..

[k_sw31]

If you are breaking T3 a arms then you need to work on your driving...or just be more careful ;)

I dont know of anyone who makes T3 arms, but you might be able (through the use of a dremel, some GT hubs and some other stuff) to retro fit hte GT a arms...then you can get blue ones :D

[ibanezcollector]

never broke one, just wanted to make it look pretty....

[pudder]

You could always spraypaint your parts.... but you have to be pretty dumb to do that.

[Se_12alty]

why is that? your blue titanium turnbuckles are sprayed blue! as long as you cover the necessary parts that won't be affected and sand down before you spray it'll be fine, and you won't be stuck with some bland flourscent green or some nasty blue gear cover/bumper. You can also do the same with battery strap, ball cups, motor plate, rims, shock caps......list goes on and on. point is its all about creativity and exploration. good luck and have fun. :D


Originally posted by pudder
You could always spraypaint your parts.... but you have to be pretty dumb to do that.

[k_sw31]

No, blue ti buckles are dyed. After they are anodized, they are dyed. The dyeing works because when it is anodized the dye 'soaks' into the oxide that has been formed. Totally different from spray painting a part...

[dontazio]

i own a rc10t3 and have set it up for spec racing and the track i will be racing is a tri oval with approx 40-50' straightaways
can someon tell me what gearing i should use?
all and any help would be appreciates also if anyone knows any tricks of the trade to get the most outa my spec car would be great


thanks dontazio

[k_sw31]

Well, for starters, try around 18 or 19. But I would also suggest that you pick up abunch of pinions...ranging from 16 to 21. So if you want more top speed, then you can throw a 20 on there, or if you want more punch try a 17 :)

[Se_12alty]

k_sw69 is right! if you want more high end speed for long straights use a larger pinion, but if you have more twisties a lower pinion would be more ideal for low end and exiting. i would reccomend getting the even and odd pinion sets, they come in handy when u have more then one car or multiple motors.

[pudder]

I would start with a 17.

Having a selection is always good. :)

[k_sw31]

I was thinking 18 because he was racing oval so he is going pretty fast....or 19.

But, selection IS good :)

[Se_12alty]

i would go 20 or 21 if its a after market stocker motor. :D

[RC10's]

I would run a 27. Just kidding, have a selection and see what works best for YOU! Word!

[k_sw31]

As some of you may remember a while back, I had a peak jaguar 11x2. It was a cheap motor. but only lasted a week. The hobby shop said I should have been running a 14 tooth, when I was running a 16 tooth...but c'mon, that still doesn't explain this!:rolleyes:

[tc3punk]

lol, that looks more like it was just plain cheap!:p

[k_sw31]

Yep, all of 20$.

Whats sad is the commutator wasn't even copper. That brassish color there is its true color. (the excessive wear was from me still dumping a pack or two through the motor with the commm like that...it still ran :p.) Plus the endbell wasn't secured in anyway...you just pry it off, no tabs! Oh yeah, they claim to have ball bearings, well, it did have a ball bearing in the endbell, but not one it the can, it was a bushing. What a rip! :p

[Se_12alty]

that just looks grand k_sw69. but forreal thats the nastiest communator i've ever seen, including the one i tried to dermal! lol :p don't doubt the dermaling the comm. with the cotton attacment and some alchol it works good. but save yourself from pain take it to a lathe.

[dontazio]

thanks for all the replies on the pinion suggestions
but now what spur should i match to the pinion
i bought the truck used and it came with no gears at all.
so i have no reference points
thanks again

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Se_12alty
that just looks grand k_sw69. but forreal thats the nastiest communator i've ever seen, including the one i tried to dermal! lol :p don't doubt the dermaling the comm. with the cotton attacment and some alchol it works good. but save yourself from pain take it to a lathe.

No, its not even worth taking it to a lathe. I'm gonna use it as practice, I am working on winding my own armatures.

(was the k_sw69 intentional, a typo, or do you have no clue what 69 means? :p)

[Se_12alty]

it was intentional. http://216.40.249.192/s/contrib/dvv/cwmddd.gif http://www.click-smilies.de/sammlung/trave_abc/smilie_6.gif http://www.click-smilies.de/sammlung/trave_abc/smilie_9.gif

[k_sw31]

you have too much time on your hands.


:p

[pudder]

I had a bad experience of wearing down the brushes to the point that the shunt wires went through and made a deep groove in the comm. I had to throw that motor out.

[Maxxmtpro]

im out looken for people interested in buying my RTR T3 im hopen to get more than 300 for it since its pretty much brand new.

if any of you are interested here is my thread

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=118344&goto=newpost

thanks
Dan

[dontazio]

hi sorry new to electric can anyone suggest the range of gearing i should try on a spec setup rc10t3 has spec motor and spec batteries
will be racing a tri oval on dirt thanks for your help

[Mystracing]

Killer BEEEZZZZZZZZ,

Here's my t3 setup, I couldn't find your e-mail addy so I figured I'd just post it here.


Myst! Racing Text Vehicle Setup
Associasted RC10T3
Driver Name: Jodie Grein Setup Date 3/2/2003
Track Conditions: Damp -Medium -Bumpy -Medium Traction

Front End:
Caster Block: 25 Degrees Standard
Kingpin Position: Lower
Steering Ackerman: Standard
Washers on Steering Block: None
Front Camber: 1 1/2 Degrees
Inner Camber Mount: Middle
Outer Camber Mount: Kingpin
Weight in Bulkhead: None
Front Ride Height: Arms Level
Front Toe: Toe In 1/2 Degree
Front end Note: Overall Length of shock from top to bottom is 3.76" not sure hot many spacxers inside but they are limited.

Front Shocks:
Shock Body: Gray Team
Front Spring: Truck Black Front
Tower Shock Mount: Outside
A-Arm Shock Mount: Outside
Limiters Inside Shock: ??
Limiters Outside Shock: 0
Overall Shock Length: 3.76"
Shock Oil: 25 Weight
Shock Piston: #2 55
Wheel Rate: 8.42 Ounces / Inch
Front Tire: T Pro-Line Edge M3
Front Foam: Standard
Anti Roll Bar: None
Front Shock Note:

Rear End:

Hub Carrier: Standard 0 Degree
Wheel Base: Short
A-Arm Carrier: 3-3 Carriers
Shims Under Carrier: None
Rear Camber: 1 1/2 Degrees
Inner Camber Mount: Outside
Outer Camber Mount: Standard
Rear Ride Height: Bones Level
Rear Toe: 3 Degrees
Rear end Note: Overall shock length is 4.33" not really sure about spacers.

Rear Shocks:
Shock Body: Gray Team
Rear Spring: Rear Silver
Tower Shock Mount: Inside
A-Arm Shock Mount: Middle
Limiters Inside Shock: ??
Limiters Outside Shock: 0
Overall Shock Length: 4.33"
Shock Oil: 30 Weight
Shock Piston: #1 54
Wheel Rate: 16.23 Ounces / Inch
Rear Tire: T Pro-Line Holeshot M3
Rear Foam: Standard
Anti Roll Bar: None
Rear Shock Note: Standard Lower Mount

General Setup Stuff:
Chassis: Extra Long
Battery Position: Middle

If you move the top of the front shock in it works better on tight, point and shoot type tracks. If you wan't it to make the corners more round put green springs on the front and go to 30 wt Oil.

[pudder]

Here's some pics of my T3 from Sundays racing. I placed third in the a-main, after getting hacked all race, I would have taken first because I was in first in the last 5 seconds, but I got t-boned.

I did TQ with 25 laps 5:12 time, which was just over a lap ahead of the other two top qualifiers. :)

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04308.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04305.JPG

[xtrout]

Hi All, I'm new to RC and my first car is a TA RC10T3 RTR. Please forgive my occasional stoopid question as I am a true noob.

First one, I want to get an additional set of rear tires for RC'ing loose dirt. Do other manufacturers tires work on a T3? Or am I limited to what Team Associated has to off. Any suggestions will help. I'm looking for the spikey nobs on my rear tires.

Thanks in advance,
Clint:cool:

[pudder]

You can use other brands stuff, you just need the right rims. Pro-Line makes plain dish rims, as well as a variety of tires to suit you.

One tire I really like a lot is made by Team Losi. It is called the Smasher. They are made for loose dirt, mid, grass, whatever. You will have to buy new rims to mount them on too, and also some CA glue to glue them.

http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2002pics/smasher.jpg

If you need any more help, let us know.

[xtrout]

Those tires look just about right. Thanks for the info!

[pudder]

I managed to break an RPM rear a-arm mount... I think I'll email them about that one. Unbreakable phhh!

[jdm3849]

Been there done that. lol


Jumped over a storage shed with my T3 yesterday, weird thing is that I only had a 7-cell and 17T speed gem pro in! The only casualties after about 25 jumps were: 2 bolts, one for shock,and one for shock tower. (replaced with zip ties temporarily) A piece of drywall (ran into off the jump, my car was covered in white powder), some battery bars on my packs came undone, and a pair of brushes on my motor. lol

I perfected the back flip and the barrel roll, scary though! I did all this with no body so I'm suprised my truck is intact. The jump started at a 45 degree angle and progressed to an 80 degree angle. Jumped about 30 feet in the wrong direction and narily avoided a picnic table and landed on some cardboard boxes. LOL
Now that the temp is up I'm takin out my XNT for some REALLY crazy air. I'll keep you updated. :) (I know you dont care):D

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by pudder
I managed to break an RPM rear a-arm mount... I think I'll email them about that one. Unbreakable phhh!

Hehe, how'd you manage that? :p

[pudder]

I got hit by my friends drag car...

JDM-be sure to take it easy on your Losi, those things tend to break a lot you know. ;)

[jdm3849]

Na, My Losi's have held up better than my AE's over my years. I ran into a F-250 full speed with the losi because my radio went dead and no breakage whatsoever. (40+MPH) I also jumped over 6 of my friends standing up and nose dived into the cement my 8th try only breaking an a-arm. Best cars I have ever owned. My T3 on the other hand.......lol And I run a Core stock and 17x2. I have only broke one thing on my losi in one year. Pretty good considering I was jumping cars at my grandma's land.

Heh...oh well

[mochunk]

Hi t3'ers.

Those tires look good! Seem pretty soft and grippy. Rock on. I may have to try a set once my t3 arrives.

I picked up a full FT t3 rolling chassis off of ebay for what I thought was a good deal. With body and extra set of foams. I have several other cars and have been wanting to play in the dirt and jumps again, not since I was like 14 (trust me, that was quite awhile ago!) have I had an offroad car.

What better than the most common and probably cheaply fixed and best parts availabilty than a classic AE truck? :)

I do have a little toy that can somewhat play in the dirt, but has no suspesion, and dirt gets in the gearbox and chews up gears.

check it out :) (http://mochunk.net/rccars/jeep.shtml)

I guess I'll let you know how the new truck is once it arrives. Hope I'm not too long winded and just saying hi. I've got several other cars so you may see me around other message bases.

Troll

[k_sw31]

Good to have ya here :D

[pudder]

Alright, here are a few pics of my T3 from the other day...

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04395.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04397.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04398.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04422.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04376.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04389.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04393.JPG

[Se_12alty]

oh my God what in the world is that? Is that your infamous *****....cat.....pudder? Pudder?

Originally posted by pudder
Alright, here are a few pics of my T3 from the other day...
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04393.JPG

[k_sw31]

That would be pudder, note the "extra large footers" :p

[pudder]

Today I was over at my friends place, I didn't have my truck with me because I just came from school, so we took out his T3. We did some cool jumps off of a dirt hill, and the funniest thing was when he decided to jump a snowbank.

He took a run from down the street, his truck hit the snowbank and slid off, landing upside down in a ditch with 4 inches of water. Luckily he suffered no losses.

I'm going over to his place tomorrow, and to Winnipeg, so I should get a few vids.

[RC10's]

for those of you searching for tires i would suggest the pro-line Dirt Works or Dirt Hawg 2. I have a set of dirt works and they are a perfect compromise tire between dirt and street, they work good on both but not great on either. If your not sure if your gonna be racing street or dirt or maybe a little of both give them a shot. Tread life is very good so far.

[xtrout]

Hey All, Thanks to Pudder's suggestion, I have a new set of Losi Smasher's on the way . I also splurged to upgrage to a Sonic 2 modified motor and LRP F1 super reverse ESC. I should be screamin' soon. Thanks all for the suggestion on tires.

L8,
xtrout:eek:

[pudder]

No problem, I really like those tires, and have heard good stuff about them too.

As I said before too, I should have a new video or two out in the next few days.

[k_sw31]

I like those losi tires, I would pick up a pair myself, but the lhs doesn't carry many losi things, and my dirt hawgs seem to work great for the places my T3 goes :D

[xtrout]

I think the thing that confuses me most about the RC hobby is that it is hard to determine which products can be used on which car models.

TMaxx seems to have a bunch of parts/accesories made by different manufacturers but Associated seems pretty limited. From what I can tell, Assoc. is defacto best beast out there.

Anbody now of any part/manufacturer cross reference guides on the net? The Team Associated site is like...so 1998. :D

[xtrout]

OK Pudder....My car must smell like tuna! Good ol' Uncle Butter likes the ride!
http://xtrout.net/images/100_0033.jpg

[FSU427P]

What would be the best gearing to use with a 13t triple. Thanks for your help.

[mochunk]

Ok got mine today, quickly popped in the new F1 pro reverse (xtrout, no gripes yet, works ok, granted it's not the super, but I wanted no motor limit) And my old 27mhz xxl, since Tower completely screwed my receiver order up. Kinda neat that it all arrived on the same day. Shoved in my 11tx2 T1 (wheelies on carpet, right to the motor guard!)

Anyways, I've put 5 packs through this thing already, and I like it. It's nice to be able to tear around in the grass and dirt, and to JUMP! I've tried all that with my tc3, and well, it doesn't like it ;) hehe. We rigged up about a 3 foot tall jump and had it soaring about 10 feet or so. I had little traction in our dusty dirty sealed concrete warehouse. Pretty nicely balanced in the air, as long as your takeoff is clean, it's sure to land clean. Nice.

I'm happy. It's been far too long since I played in the dirt.

Great, yet another car to sink money into ;)

Troll

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by FSU427P
What would be the best gearing to use with a 13t triple. Thanks for your help.

I'd say a max or a 16 tooth, and try around a 14 tooth for starters, and work your way up or down, depending on what kinda performance your getting. :)

welcome to the off road world :) BTW there are these new things called wallet band aids that help when you get a new car...;)

[pudder]

I was pulling wheelies the other day with a p2k 2 pro arm in a cham 2 can with 3300's. :)

I have a few pics, and vids that will be coming probably later today or tomorrow. :)

[k_sw31]

Now heres a real T3 ;)

[k_sw31]

...and here is my T3 as of fairly recently, (I'm bored :p).

[pudder]

Evader anyone?

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02279.JPG

[k_sw31]

Attack of the mini sts! :p

[Se_12alty]

if you plan on selling it you must post Pic is actual size of car.:D

[k_sw31]

Hey all, I guess some posts got deleted when they repaired the board, guess I'm the thread starter now ;)

Anyways, doing it a bit of testing with my new dsl :D heres my rebuilt T3, all shiny, rebuilt diff, new shocks, this thing drives better than the day I got it :D

[pudder]

I had a good few days racing, I was right behind the only guy who could beat me. I took first in a few qualifiers.

The a-main was off to a good start, I just about lapped my fast opponent, nearing the end of the race, my axle pin broke, so I lost all acceleration, and was forced into 3'rd for the finish.

Was a good weekend, but a shame that my truck had to break the most important race all weekend.

I'll get some pics later.


I also had a good trip to North Dakota. My T3 pulled some good wheelies on the pavement. I ran a Traxxas Stinger armature in my C2 pro can, really good performance. I stopped driving my truck after my 3'rd encouter with a tree... There was one tree beside the sidewalk I was jumping off of, I must have been getting atleast 4 feet high and about 10 far off of it.

The first time I hit the tree, one RPM nut blew off the shock tower. The second time I hit the tree, my rear shock came off the arm and I stripped the rear tranny brace. The third time I stripped all holes for screws holding rear shock tower, loosing some screws, and my whole rear shock came off.

That was the end.

[pudder]

I had a good few days racing, I was right behind the only guy who could beat me. I took first in a few qualifiers.

The a-main was off to a good start, I just about lapped my fast opponent, nearing the end of the race, my axle pin broke, so I lost all acceleration, and was forced into 3'rd for the finish.

Was a good weekend, but a shame that my truck had to break the most important race all weekend.

I'll get some pics later.


I also had a good trip to North Dakota. My T3 pulled some good wheelies on the pavement. I ran a Traxxas Stinger armature in my C2 pro can, really good performance. I stopped driving my truck after my 3'rd encouter with a tree... There was one tree beside the sidewalk I was jumping off of, I must have been getting atleast 4 feet high and about 10 far off of it.

The first time I hit the tree, one RPM nut blew off the shock tower. The second time I hit the tree, my rear shock came off the arm and I stripped the rear tranny brace. The third time I stripped all holes for screws holding rear shock tower, loosing some screws, and my whole rear shock came off.

That was the end.

[xtrout]

Took my new Sonic 2 12T out for a ride this weekend. Pretty quick until you catch your rear tire on a railroad tie. Broke the frikkin suspension mount. The new motor also melted the rubber casing where the wires between the motor and the ESC meet.

It was a bad run for two of my friends too. One was taking his B3 for its first run. He managed to dump it into bog completely sudmerging it. Can you say "new ESC"? I think ya can. Other friend collided with me somehow and lost a shock cap. I have 30wt stains on my new smashers now. boohoo.

Up on blocks for now. Anyone know how much I need to disassemble to get to the suspension mount?

ciao-
Clint

[k_sw31]

By rear suspension mount, I'm assuming you mean rear arm mount, right? Those are a common break, and I highly suggest you buy an rpm unit :) basically all you need to do is remove the two screws that hold it on, remove the hinge pin, and install the arm on the new mount, and secure it back on :)

BTW, I ordered a D5 14x1 a few days ago, I should receive it thursday (tomorrow) :D I'll let you guys know how it runs :)

[pudder]

Here is my T3 and 3'rd place trophy. This is my 4'th trophy so far, 3 of them earned by the T3.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04545.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04547.JPG

The broken axle pin...
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04539.JPG


My Vacation to the US of A.

My little area I set up...
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04548.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04554.JPG

Some damage from hitting a tree the first time...
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04549.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04550.JPG

My tire blew off the rim:
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04553.JPG

My final encounter with the tree:
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC04598.JPG

One other thing I really liked; continental breakfeasts. These things are great, free doughnuts, coffee, waffles, and all that good stuff. Myself, I went for the juice and doughnuts. :D

[k_sw31]

I still dont get how your roll pin broke in the middle :p

I wonder if possibly the rim was just slightly off the pin, screwing something up...

[pudder]

I have no clue either... I went back to my table and that is how it fell out of the rim. :P Atleast my rim wasn't stripped. :)

[k_sw31]

Yeah, it sucks when rims strip, but its only happend to me when the homemade pin I was using was way to small, the other time when I was running brushless and a really old and soft plastic rim. Dont have that problem any more though, got rpm rims :D

[litegide]

Pudder never really considered racing but after seeing that trophy, it makes me want to try and race at one of the local tracks!

I'm sure I'm far from a Trophy getter :(

Is that body trashed from hitting the tree or will you try and repair it?

Phil

[litegide]

Pudder i couldn't help but notice the RC10T3 box on the floor.

I just ordered a RC10T3 today, I'm pretty Dam excited! It was a real coin toss whether it be the buggy or the truck anfd the truck prevailed!

Phil

[litegide]

I ordered my RC10T3 today, although I can't say for sure if I missed anything or not, have not built an RC car before so all of this is a learning expirement.

The truck: RC10T3 Factory Team kit
The Motor:

[k_sw31]

So you dont have a motor yet then? Try a chameleon or something similar, also, I would highly suggest you buy a set of hex drivers to built your kit with. The cheap allen keys strip very easily. :)

For hex drivers, check out the rpm ones, and I have heard (from pudder) that the racers edge wrenches are good also :)

[litegide]

I ordered my RC10T3 today, although I can't say for sure if I missed anything or not, have not built an RC car before so all of this is a learning expirement.

The truck: RC10T3 Factory Team kit
The Motor: Trinity Speed Gem Pro Titanian 15T Dbl.
The ESC: LRP Quantum pro reverse
The Pinnion: 48 pitch 16 - 26 tooth (set of 5 Robinson gears)
The Radio: Airtronics MX-3, comes with receiver and hight torgue servo.

I bought some Dupont flames decals - and skipped the paint for now. Now I believe I would have needed the motor wires (extension plugs...)

How long does it take a beginner to build a truck like this? Do you think the setup is decent?

Any advice would certainly be appreciated.

Thanks,

Phil

[pudder]

Well, you would like my other trophies then too. :) They are more of an added bonus, the driving is the real fun, and seeing how good you can do with something you made and tuned.

If you follow the instructions the way it says, as a first time builder of the truck, you should be able to complete the building in less than a day. Right now I could probably tear down and put back together my whole truck in less than half an hour, but first time building sure is a rare pleasure. :)

For motor, I reccomend the Chameleon 2 Pro, It is fast, but you don't have to worry about timing, and some other aspects of a hardcore modified. You should be able to pull wheelies on pavement with the right setup. :)

Good luck with your T3 when you get it, I look forward to getting a FT B3 soon too.

[bomber 1]

hi
my brother is planning to get an rc10t3 in a week or two how good are they ? I have an evader and i love it but no local hobby stores carry their parts and that is the reason he is going to get an rc10t3 because they carry them. we are both kind of new to r/c and we were wondering if we will be able to race together. how do we do that if the frecuencys are the same . sorry if this is a stupid question. please help thanks alot
Bomber 1

[litegide]

Bomber, I was wondering these same things four weeks ago. I had just bought the Evader BX for my son and was wanting to buy a T3 or B4. I paid attention to the forum and asked many questions that would sound like common sense to even those who knew very little about RC - (lijke I do now) So there are no dumb questions.

These guys can probably tell you in greater detail than I but I'll try to answer your question.

If I'm not 100% on what I'm telling you (experts please forgive me) the Evader RTR comes with a 27 MHZ frequency and an AM radio, you can choose several frequencies in AM although I understand that FM radios offer many many frequencies. I just ordered the T3 Factory Team Kit, it didn't come with a radio - I ordered the Airtronics MX-3 which comes with a receiver and a high torque servo, the radiochip and the receiver can be ordered with any choice of frequencies - all of which will differ from the evader.

The Evader if I remember correctly comes with different painted bodies which determine which the color is coodinated to the frequency of the vehicle. Just look at your radio on the Evader or receiver in the car and write down the frequency it's on.

I chose frequency 79 for my T3's new radio whcih will work fine for with my sons evader.


Hope this helps some.

Phil

[pudder]

I like the T3 110% better than my Evader. I have had virtually no parts breakage, and it takes a real beating to do damage to this truck.

You will be able to race with your friends, If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

[bomber 1]

thanks my radio is a 27.145 will my brothers be diferent for sure and if not how do you change because my dad may be getting a savage.
thanks bomber 1

[bomber 1]

thanks both of you this forum is great.
bomber 1

[pudder]

They are numbered like channel "2" or "85", the 27.0987 or whatever doesn't matter. As long as you don't have two radios on the same frequency, it will be peachy.

You need to buy new crystals to change them, usually they are located on teh rear of the TX, and top of your RX, you just need to pull them out and put the new ones in.

[bomber 1]

now this makes sense thank you are you saying my evader sucks then. i love it.

[k_sw31]

Well, what he is saying, that in comparison to a T3, the evader is not the best truck in the world.

A note on removing the crystals, be very careful not to damage or drop them in any way, a slight bit of damage can cause glitching.

BTW, a crystal looks like this :)-

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/a/airl56.jpg

[bomber 1]

thanks any special parts my brother should get like common broken parts.
thanks bomber 1

[k_sw31]

Well, the most common part broken on the T3 is the rear a arm mount, so I suggests he buys rpm rear a arm mounts for the T3 right off the bat. :)

Also the stock gear cover is pretty crappy, tell him to get an rpm one as well :)

[bomber 1]

thanks alot that will help alot
bomber 1

[RC10's]

rear A-arm mounts like to break, I have also broken front bulkhead and front toplate. I would replace the turnbuckles with a lunsford set too, they arent too epxensive and theyre titanium so if you break one your being just plain mean. Good luck T3's rule!

[pudder]

Well I decided not to race today, my T3 needs a lot of work and a new gearbox brace (stripped). I'm getting a B3 today too, it should come with extra parts so I can replace mine on T3. And one thing I really like, it has aluminum rear a-arm mounts!

I managed to break my friends RPM bumper yesterday too, He was driving one way and stopped because he saw me coming, my Kyosho Outrage's right rear wheel slammed into the bumper and it shattered. :D

Looks like RPM has some part replacing to do :D.

[k_sw31]

Thats the third case that I've heard of the mini bumpers breaking, luckily mine has held up for nearly 2 years and still goin strong :D

[pudder]

Actually, Kale has broken 2 so far, but he didn't know about the warranty the first time round...

[ViperStrike]

Racing season around here starts on Sunday so I dusted my T3 off and gave her a new body to get ready.

I can't wait, I was going through withdrawrals.

http://www.viperstrike.net/photos/fttribal1.jpg
http://www.viperstrike.net/photos/fttribal2.jpg
http://www.viperstrike.net/photos/fttribal3.jpg

[pudder]

Have you ever tried Losi Step Pins? I used Red Losi Step Pins last season, I like them better than the Pro-Line, I think also the nipples on them might be a little bigger.

By T3 has another friend. I picked up a FT B3 yesterday. :D I'm going to race them offroad when the season starts (early June) and this year I'm going to try my hand at modified. I will run a Corally 12 turn tripple.

I still need to fix up my T3 for the weekend, oh well. :p

[ViperStrike]

Yes Pudder I have the Losi pins in the Red compound too.
they are much better then the Pro-lines in my opinion.
they are longer and softer. I have the prolines on for the pictures because my Losi's are on white rims.

I race mod and its a blast.
I use an Integy 10X3

You will love it.

[pudder]

Okay, I understand. :)

I replaced the rear tranny brace on my T3 and found some screws that work. :) I just need to throw electronics in, put tires on and go.

If you want to look at some pics of my B3:

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/b3.htm

[litegide]

Viper, awsome paint job on the T3! Can't get enough of seeing pictures of cool T3's!

You guys are racers who put these things together in your sleep, is there anyting I'm forgetting to buy to make this kit complete?

I should be getting my factory team kit tomorrow,
I bought the ESC, the motor, the MX-3 radio (I believe it comes with a radio and servo) I also bought some dupont flames decals, what is the best paint to blend red and blue? This whole project is gonna be a learn as you go experience.

I saw some small motor lead extensions in a catalog, will I need those? Now I need to figure out the art of two - tone paint and decals! I can't wait, I'm very excited about this T3! ANy pointers on the two tone would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Phil

[pudder]

I don't like motor lead extentions iwth the plugs. They get hot and the connectors can melt together, I have had it happen a lot to me. I hardwire to my motor.

[Mystracing]

ViperStrike - Nice paint job.

LiteGide - You made a good decision with the T3. My B4 is awesome on the track, but she does sit pretty low to the ground.

I don't see anything your missing except batteries and a charger but I assume you have that taken care of elsewhere.

The stock tamiya plugs on the battery and the pigtails on the motor will most likely melt. If not right away it won't be very long. It's a good idea to replace all of the connectors with Deans plugs, it doesn't make any difference if they are the old 4 pins or the new power plugs. They will gove you a lot more power to the motor due to less resistance and they last forever, but you can use the stock connectors or hardwire if you wan't.

Radio Frequencies;

There are usually 6 frequencies in the 27 MHZ band in the U.S. they are numbered 1-6. There are actually 12 frequencies in that band but the 1/2 frequencies aren't available in the US to the best of my knowledge. One thing to note it's better to know the channel number like 1 or 2 instead of the color, I have seen different colors turn out to be on the same frequency and I beleive KO numbers thiers like Channel 3 is numbered 06. The most important thing to know is the actual frequency, that's what the 27.095 etc. I don't have the 27 meg band memorized, in my opinion it's best to stay away from it because most all radio shack and rtr's come on the 27mhz band.

The 75mhz band is much simpler,
there are 30 frequencies numbered 61 - 90.

An easy way to figure out the actual frequency is just to remember that channel 81 is frequency 75.810

then you just add or subtract .200 for each of the other frequecies.

ie. Channel 80 is 75.810 - .200 = 75.790
channel 79 is 75.790 - .200 = 75.770

Often the crystals are under a plastic cover with the channel written on it so you often won't see something that looks like the ones pictured but they're in there.

[k_sw31]

Viperstrike- Its nice to know you and your T3 are back and out of hybernation :D

litegide- Everything sounds good, except, if you dont have a good set of hex drivers, definatly get some, rpm and losi make good drivers :) I wouldn't even bother with those motor connecters, I just hard wire all my motors :)

[pudder]

Also on the topic of hex drivers, AE, Racer's Edge, Hudy, Trinity, and a few more companies make them. I use Racer's Edge ones.

[litegide]

Pudder, Mystracing and k_sw31 - thanks for the tips on the motor leads - deans and or hardwired. The channel for the Airtronics MX-3 w/ receiver is 79.

The T-3 looks dam good in the pictures above, after seeing those two beautifuly painted painted B4's in the B4 post, I decided that I need to work on my slush fund to get a B4 too! 189.00-20.00 = 169.00 no tax, no shipping - I'd be satisfied with a rolling chassis for now or I'll just have to transfer the Quantum pro reverse from truck to car for a while!

Are the two-tone paint schemes difficult, what's the methodolligy when blending or doing custom designs like those B4's or even the T3's nifty purple/white paint scheme on the box.

Thanks,

Phil

[k_sw31]

Well, if you are going to be tranferring your esc and/or motor a lot, then I'd suggest you put deans for the motor and battery wires, just for simplicity's sake. :)

[litegide]

Home Depot has the Allen head (is that the same as Hex?) The long T -handled sets are by Husky and some other brand, they look pretty good for around 20.00 ish?

Phil

[pudder]

Well, I am not great at painting stuff fancy, but as far as I can tell you, do your dark colors first, light last, and for some reason if you have to do light first on something, make sure to do lots of coats so the dark won't effect it much.

[pudder]

Originally posted by litegide
Home Depot has the Allen head (is that the same as Hex?) The long T -handled sets are by Husky and some other brand, they look pretty good for around 20.00 ish?

Phil

I wouldn't bother getting these, get a high quality RC brand hex drivers. They are more, but the thing is they are made of high quality metal, usually have life time warranties, as where the ones at hardware stores tend to break, as well as wear out quickly.

Another thing about RC ones, the tips are usually replaceable, so if you happen to strip or snap one, you can buy new ones.

[litegide]

k_sw31

I wouldn't transfer the motor, I'd probably buy a P2K2 for one or the other and a 69.00 rooster as funds become available.

I have allot of ogauge train stuff to sell 1st.

Mystracing is it neat to have both the T-3 and the B4! Sounds like a good idea to me too!

I do have an old 1991 futabo magnum junior 75 mhz radio - it's in an old car - the Tamiya mad cap, I'd bought the buggy and the clodbuster monster truck from a friend last year for 50.00, we (me and my 6 yr old son) all summer long last year, he loved the buggy since it was so fast and easy to steer (as compared to the 4WS dual motored clod buster) he finally he a tree in the late fall that split the car in half - I could salvage the receiver, servo and radio from that car, it's just the car is a super beater and the B4 and T3 are new and state of the art.

Phil

Phil

[litegide]

Pudder, I'll check out the tower website for the rc hex wrenches, will I need these to build the T3?

Your T3 looks like a genuine racer and very sharp painted blue, although the several encounters with the tree sure hurt!

If I'm not mistaken on your website there was another photo of a T3 taking a stance with some trick wheels and a polished up blue paint job.


" Dark first light last - several coats if necessary" - OK I'll remember that.

Phil

[k_sw31]

In that case I'd suggest you hard wire :)

[k_sw31]

On the paint jobs-

Well, I personally dont care for the super complex jobs, mainly cause I cant paint them ;). I myself am perfectly happy with a one or two, maybe three color, I in general like bodies one solid color with like a racing stripe or trim. Although I dont mind flames :)

My suggestion is just to keep it simple, but keep in mind what it will look like sitting on the car, you can have an awesome looking body but it might not look good on your tires, wheels, etc, there fore defeating the purpose :)

[pudder]

The buggy is the fanciest body I have done, probably the fanciest I will do. Buggy bodies are alright to do special, they don't take as much damage as my truck ones. My Pro-Line one will defiantly need replacing on my T3 by the end of next season, I think I'll do a similar pain scheme, maybe some other stuff...

[mochunk]

Hello again,

Again, seems like I also lost some posts there... And it's been a few weeks since I checked back.

I've been out enjoying my t3, and properly... ahem, breaking it in. Literally.

http://mochunk.net/rccars/gfx/rccrash.wmv

Wasn't that bad of a fix really. Of course my buddy edits in all the bad jumps, and not the other 10 I landed fine at double the speed!

I like this truck, even though I've already replace like 6 pieces and a few screws. And tore up one receiver, but then again, as you can see, I haven't exactly been nice to it. So all that said, it's one tough little truck. I've actually considered racing it once the weather warms up. Since I tried my hand at some on road with the tc3 and couldnt stay off the boards ;) Maybe I'd have better luck in the dirt.

Also I really like the Smasher rear tires, enough grip to set it up on two wheels in loose dirt even. And good traction on our VERY dusty sealed concrete warehouse.

Anyways, for some more air pics and other goodies, check out the pics dir as well. Thanks for lookin.

http://mochunk.net/rccars/gfx/t3/

Troll

[pudder]

I can't believe you missed that jump. :p

I accidently ran over my b3 wit my mom's car. :( I was going alongside it, and I hit a large rock on the road and it went under the rear tire. I'm lucky I only broke a rear shock tower and my front rim. :(

[RCDoon]

Hello All,
Does anybody have any tricks or tips about the Stealth Transmission on the T3, I am kind new to this truck and would love any tips or even a website to get information. I think I have set up right but I am not sure? Thanks in advance.

RCDoon :confused:

[mochunk]

Originally posted by pudder
I can't believe you missed that jump. :p

I accidently ran over my b3 wit my mom's car. :( I was going alongside it, and I hit a large rock on the road and it went under the rear tire. I'm lucky I only broke a rear shock tower and my front rim. :(

Well, stupid me, was standing on the landing side off to the left, so once I got within 20 feet of it, I lost site of it. Which is right about when you see it veer off course. I won't be trying to jump from behind the ramp like that again anytime soon :) You think my buddy could have told me to stop! rather than just getting out of the way.

Troll

[pudder]

What motor are you running too? Looked pretty quick. :)

I did figure out a temporary fix to my B3's shock tower. I will just take my T3's and it is a direct fit, but I will have to use the inside holes, I should still be able to use the buggy shocks with it how it is... I had to leave for school when I started to work on it this morning.

[mochunk]

Originally posted by pudder
What motor are you running too? Looked pretty quick. :)

I did figure out a temporary fix to my B3's shock tower. I will just take my T3's and it is a direct fit, but I will have to use the inside holes, I should still be able to use the buggy shocks with it how it is... I had to leave for school when I started to work on it this morning.

Speed gems 2 9x2 with a 16t pinion on it. I hadn't messed with the timing yet, and I think it was around 10 degrees out of the package. Not a bad motor for the price. It's a little beefier with around 20 degrees in it now. I have a tc3 also and swap motors back and forth. So when I cracked the magnet in my TC1 motor in this truck (too many 8 foot jumps landed on concrete with too soft of suspension), I had no mod motor period! So I picked up that one. Can't complain. It was still pulling some speed in that video when I had impact :)

Troll

[k_sw31]

Good job dude, gettin some nice air with that sucker :D Gotta love the canyonero music too :)

Oh, and I can relate with the curb hitting, done it a few times myself :p

Oh, btw, I found the plastic on the speed gems 2 motors like to melt, and you are geared pretty high for a 9x2. I'd suggest you go down to around 13-14/87 :)

oh, and take your tc3 off that jump, just for the hell of it ;)

[pudder]

I like the TC3 idea too... I see a lack of jumping touring cars...

[k_sw31]

Yeah, I have a bud thats done some tc3 jumping, and gets some pretty good air too :D

[RC10's]

yeah lets jump som tc3s now thats pure simple fun...wouldnt a 16tooth pinion give you way too much low-end??? i run a 19tooth with a 12x2.....am i missing something here?

[k_sw31]

Well, unless you are running a bigger spur, I'd say your over geared. I'd guess that your motor is getting really hot, and your run times aren't the best. I'd say 15-16 is good for a 12x2, 19/87 is quite high.

[pudder]

I agree, gear down!

I ran a 16 tooth with a 14 tripple once in the summer, it was too much, but I didn't have any other pinions. I guess I'll have to pick up some more since I'm going to be racing 12 turn tripple this year...

[mochunk]

Nah it seems fine really. I don't know for sure if it's the stock spur or not, it's kind of clear plastic, sound right? I haven't bothered to count it.

But with the 16 on there it's not bad at all, it comes up on the ass end all the time with traction. So maybe it's a bigger spur. The p2k2 it came with had an 18 tooth on it.

But the motor never gets HOT, sure quite warm, but most do. And my pack stays cooler than it does in my tc3. Which has a bit taller gearing at the moment, since I trashed the bigger spur I had on it.

Troll

[pudder]

Must be a different spur then. I think kimbrough makes clear spurs, no wait, RRP does. I remember I bought one for my T3, but my friend needed it... It stripped easily though, personally I like the Kimbrough ones.

Man, I still haven't gotten time to work on my RC's. I had a girl over last night and nearly got caught, parents got home early, so I took it easy last night. :p

[k_sw31]

Naughty naughty there pudder ;)

We all know where your comin from though :D

Well, this is bugging me. I ordered a D5 14x1 a few weeks ago, 2 day air shipping so I could get it asap, but I still haven't gotten it. I am assuming that they dont have it in stock (ordered from sheldons hobbies), but I guess I'll call tomorrow.

BTW, any one have suggestions for gearing? I'm thinking 15-16/87, sounds good?

[litegide]

Hey T3 experts, I received my T3 Fctory team kit with all of the other goodies - lotsa lotsa aparts :confused:

IYYYYIIIYYYIIIII sure hope I can build this hunk of bolts ito a mean machine!

Phil

[k_sw31]

Building should go smoothly if you follow directions, good luck :D

[RC10's]

hey k_sw31.....it might be a while on your motor....it just so happens I work at sheldons and we only have like 10 D5s in stock and havent a clue when more will come....when we do get them its usually like 2 at a time just to annoy us.........

[k_sw31]

Oh dang, that sucks, could you let me know when you get a 14x1 in? Chances are it will probably go to me :)

[Crashmaxx]

Hey guys.

Finally got my T3 up and running again. I have a green machine 3 pro motor in it now and I am racing. But I need new gearing, I think I am still running 16/87, what would work well for this motor? I need to know, cause I am racing tomorrow and want to buy a new pinion. Thanks.

[k_sw31]

Hey crash- long time no see,

The gm3 is a high rpm stocker right? I think about 19/87 would go about right, maybe 18/87, but I'm just guessing...:)

[pudder]

Well, if anyone ever breaks their shock tower, I have a good fix for some things...

Take two pieces of sheet metal, thin preferably, make the template of the shock tower on it, cut and drill, then if you want, make addidtional holes for strength. Sandwich the suspension arm in there, works good. :)

[Crashmaxx]

From AE's site, I would think 24/81 would work great, but due to the mounting and the fact I want more conservative gearing(anything would be better then 16/87) I will probably go with 20/87, I was considering 21-24/87, but that big a pinion won't fit with that big a spur. Thanks anyway, and good to be back.

[pudder]

The maximum I fit into my T3 was a 22 pinion...

[k_sw31]

The only time I have heard of anyone going over 22 teeth in a practical application is brushless, plus, I heard the gm3 is a pretty windy stocker with little torque (well, compared to a p2k), so I'd figure sorta low gearing for a stock motor :)

[pudder]

I also agree. For offroad stock that I had setup last season I ran 17/87 with a P2k 2 Pro and Reedy MVP

[Crashmaxx]

I had to get a 21t, that was all they had. I had to use a 84t spur to make it fit, it is geared too high now, I am getting a 19/87 the next time I go to the LHS. I didn't race, it was too muddy.

Anyway, I put my name on my battery bar, I used an old punch set we had lying around, looks even better now. I really think I should start selling these, would any of you buy one if I did? Heres the best pic I got.

[pudder]

Ugh, the word "Maxx" on a t3, something horribly wrong there.

[Crashmaxx]

Well, my name isn't crasht3.

[FSU427P]

Haha I like the dead leaves in there! Running through some brush lately??

[FSU427P]

By the way that is a neat battery strap.

[Crashmaxx]

You should have seen how much grass and leaves were in my NMT, it looked like a birds nest. Kinda funny there are still leaves in my front yard in April.

[FSU427P]

also kind of funny that its still chilly lately down here in Florida! It just finally warmed up today, and I took the T3 down to the BMX track for some newly rebuilt shock testing. As always, it ran flawlessly and hit the 6 foot jumps, took massive air, and landed level every time. I love this truck!

[k_sw31]

I got some good t3 running in today as well, some good video as well, I'll see if I can whip something up if I got time. :)

[pudder]

Ya, well uh, I got some 15 foot far jumps with my B3. :p

Racing T3 tomorrow. Should be an easy day, I don't think my main competition will be there. I only have 3 more weeks of indoor carpet left. Offroad racing at the club starts June 1.

[RC10's]

what springs and oil do you guys like to run for off-road racing? Just put a new trinity D4 10 turn double in my T3, fastest its ever gone...not happy with my gearing though im running 20/85 (overestimated the torque of the motor a little) im gonna try a 19 or 18 instead.

[pudder]

You should try something more like 16 tooth.

For offroad setup I ran green springs with 30 wt all around and 2 hole pistons. Preload so the arms sit level.

BTW: I placed first in all my qualifiers and the a-main yesterday. My main competition wasnt there so it was an easy day. :)

[k_sw31]

Well, for my setup, in the front I have 35 weight shock oil with green springs, and in the rear, I have 45 wt with silver springs, and 2 hole pistons all the way around. If you were racing, I would suggest a little softer setup, this setup seems to do really well with bigass jumps :D

[RC10's]

thanks guys, your advice is similar to that of most peoples. I would really like to get threaded shocks because of the easy and quick adjustibility but the only ones i know of are losi and i will not put a losi prouct on my T3. Anwyays i geared to a 18 and this motor kicks ass!!! almost makes me wanna quit nitro completly because of the annoyance, but when the battery ran out after 4 minutes i changed my mind.

[k_sw31]

I really dont see a whole lot of need for threaded shocks, but it is just my opinion.

Although, I believe AE will be coming out with threaded teflon coated shocks soon, because they are coming out with them for the B4 and I heard something to the effect of "threaded shocks will be available as FT options for all AE vehicles, or something to that effect. :)

You also may want to drop down a few more teeth, to say a 15-16 tooth. You wont have quite the speed as before but you'll get a little more run time. :)

[litegide]

Servo installation trouble :confused:

I hope somebody can tell me what I'm doing wrong, I'm building my first RC car - (The RC10 T3 Factory Team) and everything had been going OK with the exception of the servo installation, the Servo that came with my MX-3 is an Airtronics 9410 2Z.

It just keeps binding when I attempt to rotate the tires, the T3 maual is extremely vague, all it says is:
- use the horn with the A on it for Airtronics.
- Use the link shaped plastic spacers with the Airtronics servo's?

Nothing about the position of the arm before it's mounted, this has been the only frusturating part of the build...

With the exception of my paint job encounters.

Please help

Thank you,

Phil

[k_sw31]

Well with the "- Use the link shaped plastic spacers with the Airtronics servo's?" you are supposed to use these black spacers that go on the servo mounts for your servo.

Basically, when you put the servo arm on, turn your esc on, and make sure the steering trim is at neutral, then shut the esc off. Now just put the servo arm on at basically a 90 degree angle, and you should be good. :)

[litegide]

I took the truck, the servo and the manual to the hs today, they said the T3 manaul was made in '98 and the MX-3 radio and servo were new.

So..."no spacer needed" in addition they said that the radio must be powered on to align the servo to a straight up neutral position and then the horn can be mounted vertically up and down.

Phil

[litegide]

I have a really dumb question...

When I put the servo in the car the guy at the hs said to make sy=ure I tuen the radio on. The MX-3 itronics radio had come with the servo, receiver and 4 AA battery pack holder that plus into the receiver. In ordwer for me to get the car to work I'd needed to put the 4 AA batteries into the harness and plus it into the reveiver.

Queation - do I need to have that haarness in the car with the ESC nd receiver? Doesn't show in the RC10T3 manual or the MX-3 Manual. What is this holster for?

Thank you, Phil

[k_sw31]

You wont need the four double A holder once you have an esc in there, since the esc will power the servo and receiver.:)

[litegide]

s_kw31

Thank you, the esc is most likely tomorow nights project.

Phil

[RC10's]

thanks to BEC you dont need that battery back....Have you guys seen the B4 yet? They look really slick im tempted to get one but im thinking i will wait for the T4.......If i can

[k_sw31]

I have one on order from stormerhobbies right now...still waiting for it though...:(

[litegide]

RC10's - whats a BEC?

I had ordered a B4 in early March from Tower - but then got impatient and orded the T3, I had previously joined their 15.00 membership that entitles free shipping w/orders over 150.00,

On Friday the mailer came with the membership price of 174.00 - I called and they reduced the backorder price from 189.00 to to 174.00 - their 15.00 promo coupon.

So 159.00 no shipping/no tax - I can't resist, Tuesday the email came that said it has been shipped!

Phil

[pudder]

Originally posted by RC10's
thanks to BEC you dont need that battery back....Have you guys seen the B4 yet? They look really slick im tempted to get one but im thinking i will wait for the T4.......If i can

I was talking to my race director, and he said that the T4 should be done in a few months or so. I am not sure if AE has made anything public yet, but that would be my guess too. I know this guy also keeps in close contact with AE since they sponsor the track, so it should all be good. :)

litegide- BEC stands for "Battery Elimination Ciruitry" or something like that...

[speedydave]

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/b4_2.asp

Bottom of the page...interview...



RCCA: Any word on the possibility of a T4 racing truck and a nitro truck after that?
CL: I'd be lying if I told you that we weren't considering a racing truck. Of course, we designed the B4 chassis with a racing-truck application in mind. We'd be fools if we didn't. I don't have any details because that project is so far down the line. A new gas truck? I think that you're getting ahead of yourself, George. Don't make me slap you!

[pudder]

Well it is more than predictable that they will shortly be coming out with a T4 soon. :p

[k_sw31]

Yeah hopefully (assuming the T4 and B4 share a similar design) that it won't take a whole lot of time to come out with a T4...but who knows...maybe AE will design the two differently for more of an edge in the truck class as well. :)

liteguide- Yes, BEC does stand for Batter Elimination Circuitry. Basically it is just circuitry in the ESC that sends electricity to the receiver, and servo, eliminating the need for a receiver pack. :)

[pudder]

They'll probably do the usual truck things from the buggy, possibly longer chassis, longer a-arms, shock towers, shocks, blah blah blah...

[Crashmaxx]

I was thinking of getting a T4 when they come out, but I already have a T3 and don't really want 2 trucks, so I will probably get a B4, not right now though, I first have no money, second, am waiting for the race version of the novak brushless to come out, and third, would hope to get a FT B4 if they are out in time.

[FSU427P]

It could be quite a while before associated brings out the FT B4. It could be up to 2 years if they feel like it. I'm thinking they'll wait until the T4 comes out so they can make FT parts in conjunction with both chassis' on the market, plus they would like to wait until everyone who has bought the original (team, not FT) cars to buy all of the FT hop ups (which will cost more) before the car is offered in a cost-affective package. That way everyone will have to buy all of the graphite and blue pieces separately from the kit.

[k_sw31]

I think it will be a short period of time until an FT B4 comes out, since they have most of the FT options already available for the B4. :)

[litegide]

Thanks for the tip on the BEC.

Now I have another question, the rear camber on the T3 has two an inner and an outer holes near the tire and on the chassis, presently I have my "turnbuckle" postioned into the outer holes - the furthest distance for the turnbuckle to reach - thus causing the wheels to angle in hard, can I relocate either of the two - to the iner holes, I 'm afraid if I do both it'll be to much?

What's a good rule of thumb for a FT T3 used for racing up and down the street etc.

Thank you,

Phil

[speedmonkey]

Originally posted by pudder
It sounds like you are looking for some upgrades. What version of the truck do you have?

I can tell you, for good looks and to add to the durability, RPM parts are great. I don' t think I have seen a T3 without any RPM parts. Parts available for the T3:
-rear a arm mounts (reccomended, stock are weak)
-rear bumper
-gear cover
-ballcups
-front bumper
-shock nuts&wheel nuts

I think that is it, I have all of the RPM stuff on my truck. RPM parts also come in a few colors, I think Blue, black and yellow.

I would get the rear a arm mounts forsure, I broke one off of a small jump, bought the RPM ones and have never broken another.



my t3 doesn't have any rpm parts YET! (keyword here is YET i think by about may 22 i will gave
rpm parts.)

[pudder]

Originally posted by litegide
Thanks for the tip on the BEC.

Now I have another question, the rear camber on the T3 has two an inner and an outer holes near the tire and on the chassis, presently I have my "turnbuckle" postioned into the outer holes - the furthest distance for the turnbuckle to reach - thus causing the wheels to angle in hard, can I relocate either of the two - to the iner holes, I 'm afraid if I do both it'll be to much?

What's a good rule of thumb for a FT T3 used for racing up and down the street etc.

Thank you,

Phil

Um, try adjusting them so your wheels sit flat on the ground, zero (or close to) camber. I think the manual calls for inside holes on hub carriers, inside on chassis, I am not sure, but it is good to use the farthest holes apart, you just need to adjust your turnbuckles to accomodate the extra length. If you need instructions how, let us know.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by litegide


What's a good rule of thumb for a FT T3 used for racing up and down the street etc.

Thank you,

Phil

Rule number 1, dont hit curbs! :p

Just have fun, set up a few jumps :D

[litegide]

k_sw31

my neighbor took his new hpi nitro stadium truck up and down the street a few times, he was jumping the curbs left and right, it wasn't until it clipped my mailbox post at about 35 mph that smeared it but good, still have not seen it back in action :o

Phil

[k_sw31]

You must have sloped curbs, I'm talking about the nasty sidewalk curbs! :p

[litegide]

Yeah we have the sloped curves, you could get some good air with them.'

How do you post images into this window?

Phil