Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v3.0

[fastharry]

heres the info on the new gears...





all the gears are a running change....and right now,they are the only ones on asssociated's shelves..


thhe ball diff ring gear has the same #...(2329)..they will now be packaged 1 to a bag for 2.50$ each

teh pinions are still 2 to a pack and are 4 bucks...

the solid axle and OLD one way gear have the same #...3939...they are 6 bucks because they are hand drilled....


the NEW one way gear for the HD one way is also the same #1732...and they are 4 bucks....

[cbr74]

Anybody given the Venom wheels and tires a try yet?

[OutKast]

Question about the "look alike fix" you take out the trans case screws right? top and bottom(4 total) then you just thread the 1 1/2" screw from the top and it is threaded through the holes and to the bottom of the chassis? or does it just threads into the trans case? thanks.

[Drive4fun]

Hello all sup?
I decided to get a ntc3 for the summer since i am on a budget im going with the ntc3 rtr. My goal here is to go between 55-65 top speed. My friend owns a street force gp which he spent $1,500 with hop ups etc. And only reaches at 58 top speed. I dont have that kind of money and i know with my low budget i can reach that spending much less than that. I will add the 2 speed into the car. What would you do if your on a low budget and tryin to reach those speeds spending the least money you can.
Thank You

[cbr74]

two speed, tall gears, and a hot engine.

[Drive4fun]

Can you be a bit ,more specific?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by OutKast
Question about the "look alike fix" you take out the trans case screws right? top and bottom(4 total) then you just thread the 1 1/2" screw from the top and it is threaded through the holes and to the bottom of the chassis? or does it just threads into the trans case? thanks.

Ok......first of all, I have to clear this up, I was totally misunderstood the idea of the original "THE FIX" that you saw on E-bay, technically, that one is the BULLETPROOF version of fixing the diff case came loose problem, that 2 silver posts on THE FIX are actually have 4-40 threads INSIDE that works as the lock nuts, that will capturn the 1.5" 4-40 that dial thru from the bottom of the chassis.......and that is the correct FIX.

About "THE FIX look alike", that is just 2 MORE screws added onto the shock towers, and just 2 more screws stronger, STILL NOT GOING to be as strong as "THE FIX" cause I just dailed two 4-40 thru the shock towers and onto the LOWER diff case - NOT thru the chassis, cause I got NOTHING to capturn the 4-40 and there are NO such thing is 1-3/4" or even 2" 4-40 unless someone custom made them.

But again, for like $5......you guys can give my idea a try (actlually, not really just my idea, lots of pple thought about that, so I don't want to take any credit)......but if you have any major wrack on the track, and found out the tower still stripped, then get yourself $25 (for both front and back) and give "THE FIX" a try, I will only if I broke my shock towers.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Drive4fun
Hello all sup?
I decided to get a ntc3 for the summer since i am on a budget im going with the ntc3 rtr. My goal here is to go between 55-65 top speed. My friend owns a street force gp which he spent $1,500 with hop ups etc. And only reaches at 58 top speed. I dont have that kind of money and i know with my low budget i can reach that spending much less than that. I will add the 2 speed into the car. What would you do if your on a low budget and tryin to reach those speeds spending the least money you can.
Thank You

You should get the FUSION (3-speed and .21 engine) if you are just drag racing..... I wish my NTC3 can be 50 mph ALL AROUND including cornering........NTC3 with 2-speed, and with any kind of average engine like Sirio or OS TR should be able to reach 50-55mph range, anything beyond that , it WON'T be cheap - means, no low budget (ie. .15 or .21 engines..?)

[Drive4fun]

Yes i know it wont be cheap but i dont have money to really go around right now so im just finding the cheapest way and i will be racing at a time so i want to go with the tc3 there is a track 30 min away from here which i will go once a week or so i want to reach 60 so i dont know how to so i am asking what engine and what gearing should i use? maybe 55 will do i dont know on how fast the gp can accelerate

[cbr74]

Can you be a bit ,more specific?
2285 NTC3 Two-Speed Assembly Set
2301 NTC3 23 tooth Pinion Gear (gold)
2303 NTC3 27 tooth Pinion Gear (purple)
2263 NTC3 48 tooth Kimbough Spur Gear, 2nd
2265 NTC3 52 tooth Kimbough Spur Gear, 1st

I don't know if the RTR engine will pull those gears, but a Collari XS12PSS will. It is the shag nastiest pullstart side exhaust engine I've ever seen. Smokes the CV-R big time.

With those parts and a Paris ripple pipe, my NTC3 is too fast for most parking lots. It runs out of road at a rapid pace.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by cbr74
2285 NTC3 Two-Speed Assembly Set
2301 NTC3 23 tooth Pinion Gear (gold)
2303 NTC3 27 tooth Pinion Gear (purple)
2263 NTC3 48 tooth Kimbough Spur Gear, 2nd
2265 NTC3 52 tooth Kimbough Spur Gear, 1st


Something doesn't look right here.......6 tooth different on the spurs and 4 tooth diff on the pinions........so your 2nd gears are barely touching each other or you have no gap on your 1st.

Double check that.

[cbr74]

Something doesn't look right here.......6 tooth different on the spurs and 4 tooth diff on the pinions........so your 2nd gears are barely touching each other or you have no gap on your 1st.

Double check YOUR math rookie. 27-23=4, 52-48=4

[spenzalii]

It is the shag nastiest pullstart side exhaust engine I've ever seen

I'm thinking of getting one (maybe for the LD3? Don't hit me...). Is the motor a SG, slide carb, or did you have to modify it?

[cbr74]

It's a slide carb, threaded shaft.

[nitrojunkee]

Anyone using Nitro shoes and having good luck? the rubber tires that came with the kit dont seem to be a good match for the Sirio engine im running. If anybody is using Nitro shoes please share what compound is working for you. Im mainly running on unprepped parking lots right now and just lookin for more traction. thanks.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Rookie Solara who makes those blue cone washers u have on ure car? cold either of these be them ?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSD2&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSD5&P=7

i know hpi makes them in silver and purple but i was looking for some blue eyecandy.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by cbr74
Double check YOUR math rookie. 27-23=4, 52-48=4

What a dumb ass..............I must smoked something BAD that morning, my bad...............

But still, what was your question....? I just won't let my NTC3 run on 23T on first...way too high for any kind of race track except parking lot bashing.

To improve the all around setting on the gear box, keep them alittle bit further on gear.....ie, most of the team AE driver running 21/27 with 48/54.............in my local SMALL track, I am planning to run 20/26 with 48/54......that way, you will have monster low-end power (launching) and super fast straight when you need it.

Again, sorry about the gear tooth differences comment, I was sleeping....or brain dead at that moment.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Rookie Solara who makes those blue cone washers u have on ure car? cold either of these be them ?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSD2&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDSD5&P=7

i know hpi makes them in silver and purple but i was looking for some blue eyecandy.

I don't have the package here anymore, but I know they are from local Chicago ppl..............my LHS (2 minutes from my house) has plenty of them in different color............$6.99 (for 10 pieces)plus 6.8% tax plus $2-3 shipping (like $10 to $10.50)......send me some cash and I can pick some up for you, again, I made NO MONEY on that, and I just want to help you to get some of those.....I didn't realized that those washer are that hard to find at the beginning.

Send me PM if you want.

[Pro3/nmt105]

I was asking so i could have my lhs order me some I dont really wanna spend ten bux on some washers even though theyre really sweet. Thanks for the offer though, its very generous of you to offer to send them to me.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Im looking for some eyecandy nuts to hold my shocks on i found several of possibilities:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWS38&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWS39&P=7

anybody tried these
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRP63&P=7 theyre made for the tc3 but i guess theyd fit the ntc3

I dunno what these are made for but ill just put them as a possibility
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPW15&P=7

can somebody tell me which you think will fit and look best
Thanx

[cbr74]

The NTC3 uses SAE fasteners, not metric. I got all my blue screws and locknuts from here: Fastener Express (http://www.fastener-express.com/store.asp)

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Im looking for some eyecandy nuts to hold my shocks on i found several of possibilities:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWS38&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWS39&P=7

anybody tried these
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRP63&P=7 theyre made for the tc3 but i guess theyd fit the ntc3

I dunno what these are made for but ill just put them as a possibility
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPW15&P=7

can somebody tell me which you think will fit and look best
Thanx

I'm using these in many places:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMW71&P=7

And these to hold the wheels on. The low profile means that more threads go through the locking part of the nut.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMW72&P=7

[cbr74]

Uh... no. The low profile means they are shorter and have less over all threads.

[SimonFDR]

Heres my little car. =)

[SimonFDR]

2x p

[Pro3/nmt105]

I was looking for some blue nuts to hold the shots on I know these will fit but I was looking for just a plain blue nut like the ones I asked about to hold the shocks on. I know Rookie Saloria has them in purple anyone know what size they are?

Thanks

oh also I need an adapter to charge my trinity reciever pack can I use this connector http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVJ47&P=7 on this chager http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUF43&P=7(I already own it) to charge it? I will use only the two wires that are used on the battery on the adaptor.

[Distro]

Anyone else blown the 2 speed gear off their bell housing? This is the second time it has happend, where its just bew the screws right through it and you can see whast left of the hub in that spot. Think i have too much horse power? :D

[Drive4fun]

quote-
2285 NTC3 Two-Speed Assembly Set
2301 NTC3 23 tooth Pinion Gear (gold)
2303 NTC3 27 tooth Pinion Gear (purple)
2263 NTC3 48 tooth Kimbough Spur Gear, 2nd
2265 NTC3 52 tooth Kimbough Spur Gear, 1st

I don't know if the RTR engine will pull those gears, but a Collari XS12PSS will. It is the shag nastiest pullstart side exhaust engine I've ever seen. Smokes the CV-R big time.

With those parts and a Paris ripple pipe, my NTC3 is too fast for most parking lots. It runs out of road at a rapid pace.

__________________________________________________ __


Ok for the engine and the pipe im having trouble to find in a website where they sell it. Can you recommend me something else that i can find on towerhobbies or on Stormerhobbies?? thank you

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Drive4fun
quote-
2285 NTC3 Two-Speed Assembly Set
2301 NTC3 23 tooth Pinion Gear (gold)
2303 NTC3 27 tooth Pinion Gear (purple)
2263 NTC3 48 tooth Kimbough Spur Gear, 2nd
2265 NTC3 52 tooth Kimbough Spur Gear, 1st

I don't know if the RTR engine will pull those gears, but a Collari XS12PSS will. It is the shag nastiest pullstart side exhaust engine I've ever seen. Smokes the CV-R big time.

With those parts and a Paris ripple pipe, my NTC3 is too fast for most parking lots. It runs out of road at a rapid pace.

__________________________________________________ __


Ok for the engine and the pipe im having trouble to find in a website where they sell it. Can you recommend me something else that i can find on towerhobbies or on Stormerhobbies?? thank you

found the stuff you need at www.acehardwarehobbies.com

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/default.php?cPath=108_118_119&osCsid=ef750387391f582550eed01aac1f595f collari motor

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20_40&products_id=2228&osCsid=ef750387391f582550eed01aac1f595f paris racing ripple pipe

[Drive4fun]

Aight thank you

[Drive4fun]

Ok im getting the ntc3 rtr in 1 month and i wanted to know to turn it into a racer for the summer what should i do i would work with a .12 engine maybe a os, picco etc but what are good pipes what are good setups what should i buy, how should i keep my car to run its best it can etc how do i transform a rtr to a racer ?! I wont be doing it right away i will learn the car first then buy all the stuff and be prepared to race!
Thanks!

[SimonFDR]

First of all, why waste money on an RTR. Just get a roller, and start from there. As for engines, and pipes I can't help you.

[Drive4fun]

Im on a low budget.....

[Pro3/nmt105]

you could probably pick up a roller off ebay or the b/s/t forum for cheap

[SimonFDR]

Crap. I think I have fuel leakage. Very little but enough to get me to buy another tank. Whats a good fuel tank to get ?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Id just stick with the stock updated AE tank because Its cheaper and works just as well as the K-factory tank which isnt any stronger, from what ive heard.

[cbr74]

I had a leaky tank, I called AE to ask what I could use to seal it. They sent me a new tank for free. Go AE!

[SimonFDR]

Did they as for any info when they sent you a new one?

[cbr74]

They asked for my name and address and requested that I return the faulty tank in the SASE that they sent with the new tank.

[pep88]

I just got a '03 fantom .12 non pull, and the crank is too long! I cut the crank down so the pilot shaft would fit on it, but I still need a shim between the bearing and collet because the threads on the crank dont go down far enough.

The flywheel had a little play in it without the shim. "Cept that made the whole assembly a little too long and now there is a slight rub on the clutchbell from the small spur gear (there wasnt much space to begin with).

Anybody else noticing this prob? Is there a fix for it? Or does the '03 fantom not work on a NTC3?

:confused:

Thanks

[brncat1]

I just got my rtr ntc3 last week and it runs fine to me.
I don't think i broke it in properly. I have ran a little more than half a gallon through it.
Should i start at 2 1/2 turns out on both and leave low speed at 2 1/2 and slowly bump up the high using the clock method or just buy another engine form hooby town.
If i need a nother engine what be the chepest and best to get from them they have a dynamite for $69.95 or try to tune engine still and see if it heats up and blows.
Also any hopups i should get.
Tires for one.
shocks.

[spenzalii]

Shag Nastiest... still too funny...

Anybody tried the Novarossi CX12 line or the TOP line of motors yet? I wonder how they stack up to the Collari (still want a pull start, but it may go in another car.

Oh yeah, the Collari is a side exhaust, yes? Round or standard port exhaust?

[cbr74]

The Collari I have is standard port, side exhaust. The stock side exhaust AE header fits it just fine. Collari also makes rear exhaust, but I haven't tried them.

[SimonFDR]

Why wouldyou want the cheapest engine? Just invest a good sum of money and get a better one, As for breaking in your engine, there are guides out there that can help you.


Originally posted by brncat1
I just got my rtr ntc3 last week and it runs fine to me.
I don't think i broke it in properly. I have ran a little more than half a gallon through it.
Should i start at 2 1/2 turns out on both and leave low speed at 2 1/2 and slowly bump up the high using the clock method or just buy another engine form hooby town.
If i need a nother engine what be the chepest and best to get from them they have a dynamite for $69.95 or try to tune engine still and see if it heats up and blows.
Also any hopups i should get.
Tires for one.
shocks.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by brncat1

If i need a nother engine what be the chepest and best to get from them they have a dynamite for $69.95 or try to tune engine still and see if it heats up and blows.


I think most ppl will agree with me that $70 a engine is NOT even considered an engine for RC car, if you want something CHEAP and still able to RACE..........OS CVR side exhaust with 1.0HP 30,000 rpm for like $99.99 at Towers, and I am sure some place can get that for like $90.

And that engine is cheap but still able to race, and that engine is the right way to go if you have a RTR and wanted to beef it up a little.

[spenzalii]

Since he's running the RTR version, I believe he's going to need a p/s engine. Of course, I'm assuming (and hoping I'm not wrong). In which case the CVR won't do him much good, unless he shells out a few more bucks for a starter box. How 'bout a less expensive ps motor if he can find it? I too think TT that came with the TC3 woule be a better bet than the Dynamite.

[TopKatz]

This is the area that patentice realy pays off. Save up and wait untill you can afford the motor you want. For $150 you should be able to get a very good motor. Granted a pull-start motor is a little more, but the money is well spent here.

The $50 difference from a $100 motor to a $150 is huge.... Dont even bother getting a motor for $100... not worth the money!

[cbr74]

My buddy went the inexpensive route and got a Dynamite .12... it ran fairly well... until the crank pin sheared at the con rod after about half a gallon.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by TopKatz
This is the area that patentice realy pays off. Save up and wait untill you can afford the motor you want. For $150 you should be able to get a very good motor. Granted a pull-start motor is a little more, but the money is well spent here.

The $50 difference from a $100 motor to a $150 is huge.... Dont even bother getting a motor for $100... not worth the money!

couldnt have said it better my self..

[Rookie Solara]

Like what McDonald said...."what you paid is what you get"......of couse, I wouldn't even use my CVR to race seriously because it is just waste of fuel.......for $150, you can get some engine that will last you at least 2-3 season without major checkup, engine like MT-12, OS TR and Sirio are like $150 and CAN BE race seriously.

However, engine like that required a starter box, that will be another $90 (NTC3 one plus Gel cell and charger).......for again, those are like ONE TIME DEAL, you spend the money for once, and will last you at least 2-3 seasons.......you'll probably sell/upgrade the car before the engine/starter box decided to DIE.

[cbr74]

Put some frech rolling stock on my NTC3... Gumbies were a bit beat up.

These are Venom Zurg's:

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Feb/20032247405633798158824.jpg

[TopKatz]

I love the modena! I have a couple of tamiya 182mm ferrari challenge bodys that I run on my RFX. They dont quite fit right, but they work. I want to grab a pro-line 200mm at some point! Nice man!

[Drive4fun]

Ok the reason for me getting the rtr ntc3 is because of many reasons first and far most is that i am new to nitro ive been racing electric recently and im going to nitro second of all if i mess up doing something in the rtr it will be ok because im just learning and im not ready for the advanced yet. Once i learned everything i need to know i will get many hop ups and change the engine and get a starter box etc. i dont like the rtr's myself much but if your new to the hobby you might as well get an rtr and then learn the things from there and thats basicaly it aight thank you

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by cbr74
Put some frech rolling stock on my NTC3... Gumbies were a bit beat up.

These are Venom Zurg's:

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Feb/20032247405633798158824.jpg

I have to say that is one nice body........good job

And we are also trying to have a Ferrari challenge on Nitro/elect as well, nothing but Ferrari 360 by protoform and ONLY RED in color.......the only way to seperate your car to the others is the NUMBER on the body........so beside competing the skill of racing, you MUST have a lot of concentration from a group of 10 RC 200mm/190mm TC with the same color, same body type. Usually, ppl will get confused on the first turn cause most of the time there are accident there, and there is the FUN begin....one time one of the driver keep looking at someone's car for like 20 second (and thought THAT is his car) untill he realized that his car is still inside the PIT hitting the board.

[TopKatz]

My NTC3 nearing compleation....

Im still waiting for my k-factory decks and servo mounts from my main man Lance....



http://www.intercityinc.com/tkrc/ntc3-5.gif



http://www.intercityinc.com/tkrc/ntc3-3.gif

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by TopKatz
My NTC3 nearing compleation....

Im still waiting for my k-factory decks and servo mounts from my main man Lance....

lance bingham? car looks good btw

http://www.intercityinc.com/tkrc/ntc3-5.gif



http://www.intercityinc.com/tkrc/ntc3-3.gif

lance bingham? car looks good btw

[TopKatz]

My bad, I ment Terence.

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/

:o

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by TopKatz
My bad, I ment Terence.

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/

:o

lol momentary flash back there? ;)

[thefuzzclub]

Originally posted by Drive4fun
Ok the reason for me getting the rtr ntc3 is because of many reasons first and far most is that i am new to nitro ive been racing electric recently and im going to nitro second of all if i mess up doing something in the rtr it will be ok because im just learning and im not ready for the advanced yet. Once i learned everything i need to know i will get many hop ups and change the engine and get a starter box etc. i dont like the rtr's myself much but if your new to the hobby you might as well get an rtr and then learn the things from there and thats basicaly it aight thank you
Drive4fun,
Consider getting the kit, I bet you'll get hook to it once you start bashing in the parking lot. In the long run, you will save money since you will feel that you have to upgrade like servo, engine, shocks, radio.....

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by TopKatz
My bad, I ment Terence.

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/

:o

yo TopKatz thanks for the link just ordered some stuff from there:D

[kellhound99]

Originally posted by pep88
I just got a '03 fantom .12 non pull, and the crank is too long! I cut the crank down so the pilot shaft would fit on it, but I still need a shim between the bearing and collet because the threads on the crank dont go down far enough.

The flywheel had a little play in it without the shim. "Cept that made the whole assembly a little too long and now there is a slight rub on the clutchbell from the small spur gear (there wasnt much space to begin with).

Anybody else noticing this prob? Is there a fix for it? Or does the '03 fantom not work on a NTC3?

:confused:

Thanks

PePP88,

I had this same problem with my Siro12. The shank on the shaft is too long. After cutting the shaft all you have to do is mill out the nut that locks the flywheel on. Just get a hold of a drill bit that is same size as the shank on the shaft and mill out as little as possible. Just depends on the amount of "shank" that is visible on the other side of the flywheel. You might want to use some of the extra mip thread lock that came with the kit when you tighten the nut to the flywheel. I will try and post a picture of what I am talking about. You may have to map the picture by plugging in the url in your browser. BTW I don’t recommend using a washer between the collet and the bearing. You may extend the pinion past its designed threshold causing damage to the spurs due to a misalignment of the gears. I could be wrong on that though. I do remember testing your theory prior to reaming the nut.

http://www.geocities.com/kellhound99/picture.jpghttp://www.geocities.com/kellhound99/picture.jpg

[nitrojunkee]

Does anyone happen to know what the recomended break in time is for this engine. The manual is really vague, and i know it has a hard coated piston and sleeve. Just dont want to do any damage to this engine. Ive gotten one tank thru at idle, and 2 more through putsing along with half throttle blips. I know its pretty rich cause of the smoke trail, and temps havent exceeded 160 degrees. Anyone running this engine? any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. thanks.

[Distro]

Just run it baby it alittle for the first tank, don't go over half for the second, and just slowly increase the revs on the engine for the next 2-3 tanks.

[nitrojunkee]

Thanks distro, are you running the sirio .12 outlaw? if so how has it compared to the other performance engines out there? what is still faster? etc.....

[Distro]

Nah i don't run piccos, i've seen them run, they are quick but i still like novamega.

[Rookie Solara]

It is no rocket science, the metal to metal contact need OIL and run time to get the perfect combination (perfect contact), the more time you spend on running in the engine, the better it will be.....again, that is $180 of your hard earning money, why take any risk and rush a FINE engine like that to the track.

I use slow break-in for 3 tanks (idle, car on ground and keep it around 200 degree, once temperature get above 200, shut down and cool down and start again......for 3 FULL tank), then I will do the FAST run break-in for 5 more tanks (drop the car on the track and slow throttle on STRAIGHT, however, you can GIVE a little more gas on TURNS, that actually help breaking-in the engine....but remember, don't GUN it on the straight cause there are NO STRESS to the engine on the striaght, only at turns).....total 8 tanks, and should take you ONE FULL day, but after that day, your engine will last you 2-3 season....

Again, you are running TURBO plug engine, need more care of that......but I do that for ANY kind of engine.....1 full day and 8 tanks.

[Drive4fun]

:::: thefuzzclub ::::

Yes i will probably get hooked on the car
Im new to the hobby and i dont want to mess up anything especialy if im spending much more money i know the kit would save a lot in the long run but the thing is i dont have the money for a $600 dollar set up right now so im just going with the rtr and im going to upgrade it to whatever i need and prolly i will be getting one of these engines for racing Sirio, NovaRossi, Os, or Picco. Thats what i hear everyone is racing and thats what i see in the Winter Race on the Ntc3's. hehe thanks again you understand me now? or you need a better explenation

[Pro3/nmt105]

From what I hear most people reccomend running it on the ground very slowly for the first tank to heat it up to 200F so the metals expand and you avoid unnessecary ware. Rookie how do you get it to run at 200F while Idleing? none of my engines have Idled at temps that high unless I have them tuned poorly.

[pep88]

Originally posted by kellhound99
PePP88,

I had this same problem with my Siro12. The shank on the shaft is too long. After cutting the shaft all you have to do is mill out the nut that locks the flywheel on. Just get a hold of a drill bit that is same size as the shank on the shaft and mill out as little as possible. Just depends on the amount of "shank" that is visible on the other side of the flywheel.
http://www.geocities.com/kellhound99/picture.jpghttp://www.geocities.com/kellhound99/picture.jpg

Wow, thats exacly the problem I have. Thanks for the response! I like your idea of milling out the pilot shaft. What kind of bit did you use to do that? I'm not sure if mine are rated for metal, but then, maybe it wouldnt hurt too much to mill out a millimetre or so. I'd be in great shape if I could get that to work.

So..That extra little nub that goes past the flywheel is called a "shank"? What the heck is it for? Looks to me that it doesnt do anything cept cause problems.

Thanks again
:D

[Wyle E. Coyote]

OK, after many moons, I'm about ready to "break in" my new O.S. tr motor.

It's been recommended that I use the fuel I'm going to use to race to break in my motor. It's also been recommended that I race with 30% Nitro fuel. O.S' manual/website, recomend using a nitro fuel that has 18% oil content.

My problem, is that I haven't yet found a nitro fuel that's both 18% oil and 30% nitro.

Should I use a fuel that's 20% nitro with the proper oil content, for break in?

Or should I use a fuel with 30% nitro, and the highest oil content I can find, and prey?

[Pro3/nmt105]

You wont find any race fuels with 18% youll be lucky If you can get 12% all manufactures reccomend 18% oil as a way to say that its your fault if somthing goes wrong with the engine. Just try to get 12% oil and youll be fine, anyway the 18% oil wont do much for your performance.

[fastharry]

THE most important thing to remember when breaking in an engine,and after you're using it...when its cooling down,MAKE SURE the piston is at the bottom of the stroke.....NOT at the top of the cylinder...

[Yokomo_King]

ok since i see you guys have trouble with the new or old tanks i havent broke 1 yet
what i did

[Yokomo_King]

sorry that the pic is small it wouldnt let me put a bigger one whree the yellow is thats where you apply the shoe goo

[Pro3/nmt105]

I think you could protect the tank by using a strip of foam the kind where one side is sticky mabey 1/4 or so thick to the side of the tank where the pipe hits it and it will absorb the impact in a side collision.

[thefuzzclub]

Please help me to decide what steering servo to replace my standard servo in my ntc3. I'm looking at futaba s9350 digital and Sanwa erg-vr. In terms of torque sanwa has 200 oz. and futaba has I think 120 oz(not sure but lower than sanwa). Which is better? or Do you have any suggestions? What I wanted is to cope up with the sharp cornering at the track on high speed. I have a sirio 5 port engine.

[Yokomo_King]

Well yeah but the Shoe goo would help alot more cuz it would hold it more .

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by thefuzzclub
Please help me to decide what steering servo to replace my standard servo in my ntc3. I'm looking at futaba s9350 digital and Sanwa erg-vr. In terms of torque sanwa has 200 oz. and futaba has I think 120 oz(not sure but lower than sanwa). Which is better? or Do you have any suggestions? What I wanted is to cope up with the sharp cornering at the track on high speed. I have a sirio 5 port engine.

Well I'm running a Futaba S9304 which has 70 oz of torque. Geezz I hope that's enough?

[kellhound99]

Originally posted by pep88
Wow, thats exacly the problem I have. Thanks for the response! I like your idea of milling out the pilot shaft. What kind of bit did you use to do that? I'm not sure if mine are rated for metal, but then, maybe it wouldnt hurt too much to mill out a millimetre or so. I'd be in great shape if I could get that to work.

So..That extra little nub that goes past the flywheel is called a "shank"? What the heck is it for? Looks to me that it doesnt do anything cept cause problems.

Thanks again
:D


The drill bits I used were of no specific brand or type. Just a cheap set I purchased from k-mart many moons ago.

The shank is for the collet.

Good luck!

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
From what I hear most people reccomend running it on the ground very slowly for the first tank to heat it up to 200F so the metals expand and you avoid unnessecary ware. Rookie how do you get it to run at 200F while Idleing? none of my engines have Idled at temps that high unless I have them tuned poorly.

I lifted the car OFF the ground, open up the idle mixture needle a little bit over then necessary (so it will never stall) and I leave the high and low-end needle alone.

The reason the engine will get HOT is because your car is not running, there are no COOL WIND blowing toward to the heat sink, that cause the high temp much faster then running on the track, and I didn't say my engine will reach 200 degree constantly, I was just saying if you see your engine reaching 200 degree, shut it down, cool it off and start again........my engine can be range from 150 to 190 plus on just idleing (from OS to Nova Rossi Modified) also, different plug can generate different temp, not to mention those pain in the butt Turbo plug.

[nhearnest]

I was curious if anyone has tried the long dynamite header to run the standard pipes. What kind of performance was noticed or disliked? I have decided to go with an os 12tr and was considering the dynamite header to run with the ae pipe that came in the side exhaust kit. If the header turns out not being up to par I may then try the new RD Logics one piece pipe that is suppose to be next month.

[TopKatz]

anyone have any pics or info on said RD pipe?

[nhearnest]

There are some pictures in the ntc3 forums at www.rctech.net of the new RD Logics one piece pipe. The pipe is around inch shorter and testing has shown to have better mid-top end than the ae dual chamber pipe. They are working on where to place the pressure fitting currently. They are also taking preorders with $5 off. It does look like a nice pipe.

[Drive4fun]

What will i do to a nitro tc3 rtr what i mean by this is hop ups electronics, engine etc what would be my next steps in order if you can please as much as you can really helps out and what should i do anyone know any good website on nitro mantianee what i should know about nitro cleaning break into an engine etc ? any good websites?? thank for helping out

[nitroguy2001]

hey guys whats up.
I have been racing my NTC3 for about 6-7 months now and wow is it great. I dont think i would trade it for anything.
I just want to tell you guys that last weekend was awsome. It was like my 5th race in pro and I won in the 10 min a-main. It was a really good race!!! but i won hehehehe.
I am 15 almost 16 and getting extremely good really fast. Some of the really knowledgeable guys are helping me out and its great. I was talking to the pro guys and they want to take me to some of the reall good tracks in Los Angles. There is a race on March 21,22,23 at this track sponsord by airtronics and i am planning on going if all goes well!! Its a day after my B-day so maybe it will by my present hehe. if any of you guys are going let me know maybe we could talk!

Brian~

[kreidel1]

I need some help on gearing on my NTC3. What gear ratios do you reccomend for a huge, fast track? I am racing at Daytona International Speedway at the end of March and need to know a couple different gear ratio options since I am used to racing on a tighter, smaller track. I am running a MT12 and I use the stock clutch. Any help would be appreciated.

[show2ime]

Run 23-27 pinions with 52-48 spurs. Pretty much the tallest you can go and still have good mesh....It should be a rocket..

[Morpehus2be]

I need opinions from people who owns multiple nitro TCs (e.g; fastharry). I own an Impulse Pro, I know how it handles. I can push it to the limits. I know how to set it up just the way I like it. I drive with front one-ways and no rear stabilizer bars. I'm equally proficient with rubber or foam tires.

Now, I want to learn something new....but I'm also looking for a platform where I can improve my skills.

If I made the switch to an NTC3, would there be a lot of catching up for me to do? Are there fundamental differences in the handling chracteristics of the NTC3 that would make it a different drive altogether than my Impulse?

I'm contemplating another car and the V-One-RR is right there near the top of my list, but it uses a 3-belt system similar to my Impulse and while the design geometry may be different, the handling characteristics might not be too far off. I heard Kyosho might be releasing a shaft version of the V-One-R/RR soon.

Which is where the NTC3 comes in. Its a proven shaft design...and its available NOW. Unfortunately, I can't test drive it.

You know how some people drive a certain way and they've become used to the way a certain car handles. Well, I'd like to know if the NTC3 can be a different driving experience (as compared to the usual belt driven cars).

I've had some experience driving electrics and I love the acceleration, but not the precise handling that it requires. With my Impulse, I can afford to drive aggressively and still maintain control.

How would you all describe handling an NTC3, especially after your experiences with other belt driven cars e.g; Impulse, V-One-R/RR, Reflex etc.?

Did you regret making the switch?

Have you discovered a whole new chapter to add to your driving skill repertoire?

Do you think you'll ever go back to belt driven cars?

Do you wish you could combine the strenghts of your previous belt cars with the strenghts of the NTC3 platform?

Is there anything about the NTC3 that you wish could just be more like your previous car?

All opinions welcome.

tq

[cbr74]

Run 23-27 pinions with 52-48 spurs. Pretty much the tallest you can go and still have good mesh....It should be a rocket..

It IS a rocket. :D

Speed 6 body
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Feb/20032272821226119706320.jpg

Stratus race trim
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Feb/20032275160943622234583.jpg

[show2ime]

nice body...but it's not nearly the rocket this is.....

[show2ime]

.21 power is the way to go....keep blowing diffs so I am waiting for the new ones and see if they hold up...the os vzr ,21 is a beast..

[wrxdan]

Will the standard bar type anti-roll bar work on the front of the NTC3? Or is the blade type the only one that works.

[cbr74]

Rocket is right... goes really fast, then explodes. LOL

[show2ime]

don't be jealous! Someone has to have the slow car! I regeared it to 23/27 and 52/48 and they are actually holding up now. The other gears made the launch too hard. It would probably snap the belt on an 1/8 scale with the gearing I had on it.

[cbr74]

I'm not jealous, that car wouldn't be allowed on the track with other 10 scales. Maybe you could race the 1/8's.

[show2ime]

have a novamega 5p ms 12 for track racing....

[cbr74]

Cool

[show2ime]

what do u have under the top cbr...

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Morpehus2be
I need opinions from people who owns multiple nitro TCs (e.g; fastharry). I own an Impulse Pro, I know how it handles. I can push it to the limits. I know how to set it up just the way I like it. I drive with front one-ways and no rear stabilizer bars. I'm equally proficient with rubber or foam tires.


Sup Morpehus2be........this is RS from Impulse thread before, like you said, I jumped the boat last year (don't even bother to try the 705). Without saying too much word, try BORROW a NTC3 and do some test run. I can still remember that feeling on that day when I was running a OS 12 cvr side exhaust NTC3........I am not sure from other ppl, but that NTC3 can almost outrun my 3 years tunned Serpent PRO with MT-12 engine - that is one of the reason I jumped the boat to NTC3.

Again, you are wasting your time to go for V1RR or MTX3, you can not going to find the different, you cannot feel that and you will never see that.......because they are all the same geometry design (3 belts, front 1-way with rear gear/ball diff....etc)

From what I see for the last 9 months, almost all the former Serpent racers sold their Impulse or V1RR or MTX2 and get a used or new NTC3, and they never went back.........I cannot tell you how much NTC3 is better then the other, but I can say that, the car is just simply FASTER.

Not to mention, cheap parts, parts can be find everywhere, car is much easier to adjust/tunned, and their manuel, 100 times better then Serpent, they have every step by step process and explaination to tell you why and how to adjust all the feature of the NTC3, that is something SERPENT will not tell you (they assumed you are GOOD ENOUGH to know everything if you purchase Serpent products)

Again, try to borrow one from your friend, and you will know........if you can wait, they might have the TEAM FACTORY version coming out soon, but I won't, I will get one ASAP cause driving NTC3 is totalling different then all those belt cars, the car is seems much faster on corner and straight, and apply BRAKE correctly is the key of controlling the NTC3. It took me 4 races to adjust myself (driving habbit) to the NTC3 configeration from the Serpent way of driving.

[tallyrc]

Originally posted by show2ime
have a novamega 5p ms 12 for track racing....

perhaps i'm a little confused. you can't legally run the 21, so when you race you replace it with a 5p 12ms, isn't that illegal too? i thought legal was 4 total ports, 3 transfer and 1 exhaust..

[Pro3/nmt105]

Some tracks allow you to race 5 ports and If they dont he can race in an outlaw class

[need4speed4]

OMG!! i just completed the break-in process and finished tunin my new Sirio! This thing rips!!I REALLY smoked my friend's(who works @ the hobby shop) Mugen Mt 12. I killed him, both ntc3's have stock gearing runin foams. I am soooo happy with the Sirio, so far it holds its tune, has a very consistent powerband, and dominates!! It is very smooth and breaks off the line so fast! I'll
be racing at castle hobbies in two months, cant wait! This engine's definitely got what it takes to dominate! I definitely recomend it, fit right into my ntc3 with no mods. Although, like any other high performance, Italian engine, its a beast to start the first couple times. You have to really heat it up with a hairdryer and have a powerful starter box, a lot of fun though!

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by need4speed4
OMG!! i just completed the break-in process and finished tunin my new Sirio! This thing rips!!I REALLY smoked my friend's(who works @ the hobby shop) Mugen Mt 12. I killed him, both ntc3's have stock gearing runin foams. I am soooo happy with the Sirio, so far it holds its tune, has a very consistent powerband, and dominates!! It is very smooth and breaks off the line so fast! I'll
be racing at castle hobbies in two months, cant wait! This engine's definitely got what it takes to dominate! I definitely recomend it, fit right into my ntc3 with no mods. Although, like any other high performance, Italian engine, its a beast to start the first couple times. You have to really heat it up with a hairdryer and have a powerful starter box, a lot of fun though!

NICE!!:cool: :D

[JWF_FRANI]

just wanted to let you guys know that RD logics is coming
out with a new one peice dual chambered pipe. it should
be available in two weeks.

[JWF_FRANI]

heres the other side

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by JWF_FRANI
heres the other side

is there a price tag on it yet?

[lbckevin]

Where can i pick up one of those RD Logics pipes ?

THanks...

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
That is the LOLA body I've got, the cheapest LOLA I have ever seen, no sticker, but pretty strong plastic (like Protoform)....I ordered it from Towers.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/r/rccc0217.jpg

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=lola&FVPROFIL=++

Get 2 choose from a few.....
I just ordered this 1......
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LC3038&P=1

[NTC3Fan]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDUS3&P=7

Now this is my Body.....
Hide ur NTC3 under this baby...

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDUS3&P=7

Now this is my Body.....
Hide ur NTC3 under this baby...

LOL. Nice!

[fastharry]

just too let you know..


1.....I got the new gears from associated....they are white alright......and do seem to be a different material..

second....I ordered "THE FIX" shock tower treatment...



Finally,after spending 50,000 on this hobby I buy something for 25 bucks and the dam thing actually fits...AND strengthens the whole shock tower and bulkhead together as a pair....


you can't even twist the towers now........


this is a highly recommended option........


the whole key is that the top screw has threads on the inside..and the bottom screw goes through BOTH halves of the gearbox and threads into the top insert......the nice part is that the machined upper bolt that goes through the shock tower has machined perfectly.........NO PLAY side to side....


you gotta get this..........

[NTC3Fan]

My weird Gear Mesh.....

http://community.webshots.com/user/ntc3fan

Check last 2 photo's......
notice how much the extra thread on the Sirio engine sets the clutchbell....

sry but the site... dont have any other place 2 put my photo's

Cheers

[JWF_FRANI]

you guys can go to RDlogics.com
or ask your local hobby to order
if you want to as for pricing im not
sure on it.

[kreidel1]

I am wondering whick of my 2 engines to run on a big fast track...my MT12 or OS 12? Also is the dual chamber a better top end pipe over the stock one?

[johnnybp7]

Originally posted by fastharry
just too let you know..


1.....I got the new gears from associated....they are white alright......and do seem to be a different material..

second....I ordered "THE FIX" shock tower treatment...



Finally,after spending 50,000 on this hobby I buy something for 25 bucks and the dam thing actually fits...AND strengthens the whole shock tower and bulkhead together as a pair....


you can't even twist the towers now........


this is a highly recommended option........


the whole key is that the top screw has threads on the inside..and the bottom screw goes through BOTH halves of the gearbox and threads into the top insert......the nice part is that the machined upper bolt that goes through the shock tower has machined perfectly.........NO PLAY side to side....


you gotta get this..........

Where could I get "The Fix" that you bought.

[Pro3/nmt105]

I saw one on ebay for to bucks. I think if you could find the long screw you could make prettymuch the same thing yourself, you could just use a pice of aluminum tubing and a bolt that fits the screw.

[kreidel1]

Email this guy jreeves@aaahawk.com he sells them for $13 shipped for 1 or 2 for $25 shipped

[fastharry]

the whole trick is that the screw that fits through the shock tower is the perfect size for the hole.....and it locks down to the screw through the gearbox..its now a support like a piece of tubing..it actually locks everything together..


email him at that adress...

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
I saw one on ebay for to bucks. I think if you could find the long screw you could make prettymuch the same thing yourself, you could just use a pice of aluminum tubing and a bolt that fits the screw.

Not exactly.......I was thinking about the same thing (and wondering how can they charged me $25 for 2 pairs).........if you read what FastHarry wrote, the key is " that the top screw has threads on the inside..and the bottom screw goes through BOTH halves of the gearbox and threads into the top insert". I was misunderstood that concept before, but realzied that the silver top screw has machined threads INSIDE, and that is something I cannot do unless I have some kind of (god know how much) machine to custom fabricate that....

But of course, if you work at a machine shop, of course you can do anything......but you need to concern about copy right.

I just ordered a pair for myself..........and I think "THE FIX" is really the final fix of the shock towers problem.

[Yokomo_King]

Hi everyone how are you doing today?
I was wondering is there anything i need to do to make a lola body fit? What parts do i need etc. thanks

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by JWF_FRANI
you guys can go to RDlogics.com
or ask your local hobby to order
if you want to as for pricing im not
sure on it.

That is one good looking 1-piece....however, do they decided on WHERE to put the pressure output 90 degree nipple? No matter what, please DO NOT copy AE design on this pipe...........

[NTC3Fan]

I'm looking for those blue upper arms like Rookie has got... i cant find anyone who sells them and ships 2 South Africa

[Drive4fun]

Is there any way that my local hobby shop can get the fix and i buy it from them? the first thing im doing to my ntc3 rtr is to do is the change for the 2speed anyone know about shocks for the tc3 what are good shocks what front and what back and what size a setup sheet would help and what shocks thank you

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
I'm looking for those blue upper arms like Rookie has got... i cant find anyone who sells them and ships 2 South Africa

I can tell you this............so far the upper arms DOES do their job (really unlike GPM typical poor quality products), the alum. material prevented the pillow balls PUSH IN after impact to the boards or cars, and that is the reason why I just got the upper arms, the alum. thread are much stronger then the original plastic (AE plastic, who am I kidding...?) and the 2nd upper screws for the extra security.......so far so good.

However, they are still in one piece is because I only used it to race 1 race and one 2.4 hours endurance race, and I didn't really have any major accident with it.....so, it is not really the material, it is my GOOD driving skill :D

2nd, the pillow balls GPM used on those upper arms ARE NOT the same as the AE original one, GPM is from HK, and HK use metric system, some how they have their balls to design an upper arms that USE Metric pillow balls other then the original AE pillow balls......YOU JUST CANNOT BELIEVE THAT.....

Good thing NTC3NUTS told me and hooked me up a set of 8 GPM use pillow balls so now I have 8 extra GPM pillow balls JUST FOR those arms.....and you just cannot find those on EBAY or any place else (oh, you can get them thry hobbyetc for 4 times the price...)

So what I am saying is.....use the original arms and just stay away from board. If I decided to sell mine, you will be the first to know

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I can tell you this............so far the upper arms DOES do their job (really unlike GPM typical poor quality products), the alum. material prevented the pillow balls PUSH IN after impact to the boards or cars, and that is the reason why I just got the upper arms, the alum. thread are much stronger then the original plastic (AE plastic, who am I kidding...?) and the 2nd upper screws for the extra security.......so far so good.

However, they are still in one piece is because I only used it to race 1 race and one 2.4 hours endurance race, and I didn't really have any major accident with it.....so, it is not really the material, it is my GOOD driving skill :D

2nd, the pillow balls GPM used on those upper arms ARE NOT the same as the AE original one, GPM is from HK, and HK use metric system, some how they have their balls to design an upper arms that USE Metric pillow balls other then the original AE pillow balls......YOU JUST CANNOT BELIEVE THAT.....

Good thing NTC3NUTS told me and hooked me up a set of 8 GPM use pillow balls so now I have 8 extra GPM pillow balls JUST FOR those arms.....and you just cannot find those on EBAY or any place else (oh, you can get them thry hobbyetc for 4 times the price...)

So what I am saying is.....use the original arms and just stay away from board. If I decided to sell mine, you will be the first to know

Thnxs Rookie.....

[NTC3Fan]

thats just great...... RDLogics dont ship outside the USA....
I was was so wanting to get that Set which incl the diff cases and shock tower.. u evens get a free chassis ...


oh well

[SimonFDR]

Do they sell Setup Systems for the NTC3 like the Huddy one but cheaper?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Not exactly.......I was thinking about the same thing (and wondering how can they charged me $25 for 2 pairs).........if you read what FastHarry wrote, the key is " that the top screw has threads on the inside..and the bottom screw goes through BOTH halves of the gearbox and threads into the top insert". I was misunderstood that concept before, but realzied that the silver top screw has machined threads INSIDE, and that is something I cannot do unless I have some kind of (god know how much) machine to custom fabricate that....

But of course, if you work at a machine shop, of course you can do anything......but you need to concern about copy right.

I just ordered a pair for myself..........and I think "THE FIX" is really the final fix of the shock towers problem. you would be doing essientially the same thing it you got the long screws put them through the chassi diffcases and shocktower put a piece of tubing through the holes in the shock tower (just to hold down the upper diffcase) and put a bolt above the shock tower on the screw that sticking through and bolting it down tightly. Its really the same thing you might have to make the tubing a fraction too short so the shock tower can be bolted down all the way but other than that it should work fine. The nut and tubing replace the expensive machined tubing with threading in it.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
Do they sell Setup Systems for the NTC3 like the Huddy one but cheaper? I heard the Intergy one is good its $50 at speedtechrc.com

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
you would be doing essientially the same thing it you got the long screws put them through the chassi diffcases and shocktower put a piece of tubing through the holes in the shock tower (just to hold down the upper diffcase) and put a bolt above the shock tower on the screw that sticking through and bolting it down tightly. Its really the same thing you might have to make the tubing a fraction too short so the shock tower can be bolted down all the way but other than that it should work fine. The nut and tubing replace the expensive machined tubing with threading in it.


in my opinion,its not the same.....One,the screw rattles around the inside of the tubing....that will still let everything FLEX and move in a "hit"...the idea of the fix is that the top screw meets teh bottom screw and torns into a 1 piece NON FLEXING unit..esp since the top screw is a perfect fit for the hole in the shock tower..


and heres the difference between my opinion and others..


I have the THE FIX on my car....it works perfectly....I tried the other cheapo fix........IT DON"T

end of story

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fastharry
in my opinion,its not the same.....One,the screw rattles around the inside of the tubing....that will still let everything FLEX and move in a "hit"...the idea of the fix is that the top screw meets teh bottom screw and torns into a 1 piece NON FLEXING unit..esp since the top screw is a perfect fit for the hole in the shock tower..


and heres the difference between my opinion and others..


I have the THE FIX on my car....it works perfectly....I tried the other cheapo fix........IT DON"T

end of story

to each his own fix...... two of the guys at my lhs use the non ebay fix with tubes and 1 1/4 screws... only difference is they use stainless steel tubeing instead of the auminum tubing...... half way throught the season,(FL) they still havent busted thier diff cases and they are both #'s1 & 2 in the points race.

[fastharry]

how are they tying teh gearboxes together with that short of a screw?......all they are doing is holding down the tower..they're not preventing the unit as a whole from twisting..

[KronicRacer]

twisting..... ... i understand what your getting at: how is an empty cylinder barrel gonna prevent twisting when its just a long screw and an empty barrel holding it down. the common logic is that more screws are better. with either fix there are five screws the stock has only three in each of the solutions. that has gotta say something.... just pick you poison. just use stainless steel if you do the non ebay fix:p

btw 1&1/4 inch is long enuff ;).:p

[NTC3Fan]

okay i have a slight prob with my manifold... see below

http://home.worldonline.co.za/~20149680/Pictures/MVC-039F.JPG

it doesnt look that great at all.....

can i [A] spray it with like heat resistent spray....
or [B] do u get stuff to clean that like residue off thats from welding...

Cheers

[NTC3NUT]

I polished my original pipe & manifold, then had them anodized blue. I have since switched to the FT dual chamber pipes, those I bought anodized already.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
twisting..... ... i understand what your getting at: how is an empty cylinder barrel gonna prevent twisting when its just a long screw and an empty barrel holding it down. the common logic is that more screws are better. with either fix there are five screws the stock has only three in each of the solutions. that has gotta say something.... just pick you poison. just use stainless steel if you do the non ebay fix:p

btw 1&1/4 inch is long enuff ;).:p

I'm glad you see my point.....but your right,the more screws the better...its just not THE BEST cause it doesn't lock the 3 pieces together as a unit...

and I don't get why people won't spend 25 bucks for a part that works so well,and is well made to boot...I guarentee if I saw thsoe cars with the home made fix,they have more than 25 dollars worth of USELESS hop ups or mods on them...

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by fastharry
I'm glad you see my point.....but your right,the more screws the better...its just not THE BEST cause it doesn't lock the 3 pieces together as a unit...

and I don't get why people won't spend 25 bucks for a part that works so well,and is well made to boot...I guarentee if I saw thsoe cars with the home made fix,they have more than 25 dollars worth of USELESS hop ups or mods on them...

This fix..... is it only the screws and stuff...
or is it the diff cases and shock tower with it????

[Rookie Solara]

After reading from FastHarry to KronicRacer, I think we should let the rest of the ppl know about the different betweeen these 2 "FIXs"

The CHEAP fix (like the one I made and everyother NTC3 owners made) are simply adding 2 more 1.5" 4-40 screws dialed right down to the bottom of the diff case, it is simple adding 2 more screws and added 2 more screws security, the CHANCE of the shock tower still popping UP is still there - period, but the % of that chance should be much smaller, at least that is how I feel, pulling a freash 1.5" 4-40 screws from the lower diff case is very difficult, I think that will required several MAJOR WRACK to make those 2 long bolts come loose, and my feeling is I think I will break the shock towers FIRST before those screws come loose.

The REAL FIX - that is the real fix, it prevent the shock tower popping up, it is NOT adding to more screws, the top washer shape threaded tubbings are holding down the tower, while the threaded tubbing inside LOCKED with the 4-40 screws coming from the bottom of the chassis that thread thru the diff case, that is the idea solution for fixing the shock towers problem.

If I didn't invested my $4.25 and 1 hours of my time doing my own fix, I will defintiely spend my hard earning $25 and get 4 FIX and don't need to worry about that problem (for a while I think).....but now, I think I will give the cheap fix a try, since I can feel that will reinforced the shock towers by a little, and if I don't have some 60 mph heading directly to the CMU wall, I think the cheap FIX should work.

We don't have to debate this issue over and over.....and like FastHarry said, I don't believe ppl cannot afford $25 for a GOOD SET of RC parts (to be honest, there are not too many RC parts actually DO THEIR JOB, most of them are eye candies)..........but for ppl like me, we did the cheap fix, why don't we just give it a shot before we handed out hard earning $25 to THE FIX.

We can talk about this like 3-4 months later (KronicRacer already mentioned his friend's cheap fix does work for a while), at least I will, season start in 2 months, and I will give the cheap fix 1-2 months of testing, and will see does $4.25 parts really = to $25.00 parts?

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
After reading from FastHarry to KronicRacer, I think we should let the rest of the ppl know about thedifferent betweeen these 2 "FIX"

The CHEAP fix (like the one I made and everyother NTC3 owners made) are simple adding 2 more 1.5" 4-40 screws dialed right to the bottom of the diff case, it is simple adding 2 more screws and added 2 more screws security, the CHANCE of the shock tower still popping UP is still there - period, but the % of that chance should be much smaller, at least that is how I feel, pulling a freash 1.5" 4-40 screws from the lower diff case is very difficult, I think that will required several MAJOR WRACK to make those 2 long bolts come loose, and my feeling is I think I will break the shock towers FIRST before those screws come loose.

The REAL FIX - that is the real fix, it prevent the shock tower popping up, it is NOT adding to more screws, the top washer shape threaded tubbings are holding down the tower, while the threaded tubbing inside LOCKED with the 4-40 screws coming from the bottom of the chassis that thread thru the diff case, that is the idea solution for fixing the shock towers problem.

If I didn't invested my $4.25 and 1 hours of my time doing my own fix, I will defintiely spend my hard earning $25 and get 4 FIX and don't need to worry about that problem (for a while I think).....but now, I think I will give the cheap fix a try, since I can feel that will reinforced the shock towers by a little, and if I don't have some 60 mph heading directly to the CMU wall, I think the cheap FIX should work.

We don't have to debate this issue over and over.....and like FastHarry said, I don't believe ppl cannot afford $25 for a GOOD SET of RC parts (to be honest, there are not too many RC parts actually DO THEIR JOB, most of them are eye candies)..........but for ppl like me, we did the cheap fix, why don't we just give it a shot before we handed out hard earning $25 to THE FIX.

We can talk about this like 3-4 months later (KronicRacer already mentioned his friend's cheap fix does work for a while), at least I will, season start in 2 months, and I will give the cheap fix 1-2 months of testing, and will see does $4.25 parts really = to $25.00 parts?

Anyone got a picture of the proper fix???
i whud definitly spend $25 on that then buying my radio and starter box b4 i can evens run my car... ( yes my car hasnt run 2 metres yet)

cheers

[fastharry]

we'll see what happens....but I'm only saying this once more...

THE FIX,because the screw goes in through the bottom,and threads through the 2 gearbox halves...and THEN locks down together with the top shaft,holds everything togther..and solves 2 problems....The gear cases from breaking in a hard hit..AND t6he shock towers from coming loose...which in my opinion is happening cause the gearbox's are twisting in a PIPE or board hit...

the cheap fix does nothing but give the tower more support..

[fastharry]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Anyone got a picture of the proper fix???
i whud definitly spend $25 on that then buying my radio and starter box b4 i can evens run my car... ( yes my car hasnt run 2 metres yet)

cheers


go to ebay and punch in "tc3 the fix"......if it doesn't come up,go to completed sales in the search mode..

[Rookie Solara]

This is "THE FIX"....( I am not working for them, and I hope they are not sueing me for copy right this picture...)

http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/flyr0/TheFix3.jpg

THE FIX only came with two 4-40 screws and 2 machined tubbing with thread inside, you have to use your own towers and diff cases....see pic.

http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/flyr0/TheFix.jpg

THE FIX are $25 for front and rear both...$13 for front or rear ONLY (front and rear are the same).....NTC3Fan, you need to contact them and see they will ship to South Africa, but I am sure it will be more then $25 (more shipping)

Like Fast Harry said, THE FIX is a LOCK TIGHT system, the cheap fix is just adding 2 more screws system, nothing different then the original 3 screws system.

You can see their auction on ebay, type "NTC3" on search, then you HAVE to go to "completed items" at the left cause there are none on the active auction now....then look for "THE FIX"...

or here...

http://**************/ws/*******************************3115229213&category=19168

[NTC3Fan]

thnxs Guys...
I'll try to find a pair of them soon...

[SimonFDR]

1st, Will the Integy work for the NTC3. What function is this missing? Can it measure Droop?

2nd, Where can I get the board and decal sheet.

3rd, How do you guys keep your car so clean? I raced yesterday for about 1 1/2 hours and my car was BLACK

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
1st, Will the Integy work for the NTC3. What function is this missing? Can it measure Droop?

2nd, Where can I get the board and decal sheet.

3rd, How do you guys keep your car so clean? I raced yesterday for about 1 1/2 hours and my car was BLACK

(1) Just get the Integy one, I can't remember how many times we all mentioned that, it is better then the HUDY one, just get it. And also, HUDY one have problem at the rear hub on the NTC3, you have to shave some material of the HUDY guages or shave some on your NTC3 hub.....for me, that is stupid.
DROOP cannot be measure with the SETUP system, Droop measured with the DROOP GUAGE, Integy or HUDY setup system only measure cambers, caster (on INTEGY for sure, not sure about Hudy)and toes.

(2) LHS or Hudy....I've got my board from Ikea, 50 cents, decal is from Hudy.....make sure get the 1/8th scale one (bigger is better)

(3) I have 6 months to clean the car up for this summer, I will clean ,wax and rust proofing my NTC3 if I want to (I am just kidding)......one very good tool to clean your NTC3 - Serpent Cleaning GUM, $10, can clean all the dirt after race without using denature alcohol or any clean chemical/spray.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Im pretty sure the fix I explained would work almost as well as the real thing. Im not sure if people understand what i was talking about so ill explain it again. You would use 2 long countersunk screws just like in the real fix, put them through the bottom of the chassi, through the diffcases, then through the holes in the shock tower. Next you would have to replace the machined threaded piece to hold down the upperdiffcase you use a piece of tubing, u make it a hair too short so it leaves room for you to lock down the shock tower. You insert the tubing into the holes in the shocktower with the screw that goes from the bottom of the chassi and through the diffcases inside it and the end of it sticking out above the holes in the shocktower. You then put a nut on the end of the screw thats sticking out and lock it down. This will hold the shocktower and diff cases to the chassi and should definitly prevent the shocktowers from poping up but probably wont prevent them from twisting as well as the real fix.

[fastharry]

well,you'rte right...that would help....of course,you'de have to find the right length screws,then the right size ID and OD tubing..and then you could do it..


but like I said.spend the 25,get the right product,and be done with it...

[Pro3/nmt105]

I havent run my ntc3 yet because all of the snow and cold weather so I dont know if ill have a problem with the diff cases, but if I do first ill try the cheapo fix and if that dosnt help ill buy the real thing or make what I mentioned above. The only problem with that fix is that I dont know where Ill ever find countersunk 4-40 screws that are that long they have to be at least 2inches if not longer because they have to go all the way through the chassi and above the holes in the shock towers. Im the eye cany type and I dont like the looks of the fix much but if it works ill probably get it.

[NTC3NUT]

NTC3Fan,
You have a PM.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Im pretty sure the fix I explained would work almost as well as the real thing. Im not sure if people understand what i was talking about so ill explain it again. You would use 2 long countersunk screws just like in the real fix, put them through the bottom of the chassi, through the diffcases, then through the holes in the shock tower. Next you would have to replace the machined threaded piece to hold down the upperdiffcase you use a piece of tubing, u make it a hair too short so it leaves room for you to lock down the shock tower. You insert the tubing into the holes in the shocktower with the screw that goes from the bottom of the chassi and through the diffcases inside it and the end of it sticking out above the holes in the shocktower. You then put a nut on the end of the screw thats sticking out and lock it down. This will hold the shocktower and diff cases to the chassi and should definitly prevent the shocktowers from poping up but probably wont prevent them from twisting as well as the real fix.

I think we all know what you are talking about, and we all know that if we can FIND that 2.5" long 4-40 (or 3mm) countersink screws, along with the right ID and OD tubing (that prevent flex inside the tubing and the shock towers) then you can skip the $25 the fix....

But the problem is.......you (and myself) just can't find any of those (there are no such thing is 2" or 2.5" long 4-40 screws when my LHS called the mfr that made their screws, due to the length is very easy to get bent/flex and there are no market for those type of screws)at any hardware store or LHS......and if you do find one, please let us know......

And if you can find someone custom made those 2 items, find out who much will that be........I am sure you will turn around and go back to "THE FIX".

[Pro3/nmt105]

Ill probably just get "the fix" if I cant find the screws and the chepo fix dosnt help, I just like to design and make things myself and test how well they work.

[tOrcHed Lh]

has anyone considered the $20 set of front and rear aluminum diff cases from rdlogics as an alternative to THE FIX?

[KronicRacer]

i agree with pro/nmt105. i like to do stuff myself once in a blue moon.... bottom line about this whole disscussion is that the cheap fix is not as strong as the ebay fix in terms of the flexing that may occur. the ebay fix is for those that want to "bullet proof" the car the shock towers are still gonna bust if the car is in a brutal wreck, but the diff and diff case will be saved in theory.

i tinks imma get the ebay fix also for my ground up hardcore tc3 and stick to the cheap fix for the stock ntc3.

i think im fixed with this topic:D

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by tOrcHed Lh
has anyone considered the $20 set of front and rear aluminum diff cases from rdlogics as an alternative to THE FIX?

those al;uminum cases that were on ebay are crap the guys at the track had a laughing fit when we saw the cases after a wrek there not even cnc'd.....there are crap.... if anything use the carbon diff cases and the fix.

[fastharry]

where'd you see carbon diff cases?...

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fastharry
where'd you see carbon diff cases?...

i may have been jumping the gun on that one. but i thought they were included in the factory carbon upgrade...... right?

[KronicRacer]

damnit it says diff braces and i thought it said diff cases sorry bout the misinfo:o

[Rookie Solara]

KronicRacer, you are not necessary WRONG about the material of the diff case, do you guys know that all the so called "Plastic Parts" of the entire NTC3 are some kind of mixture of carbon fiber with something something (that I don't know what they mixed with)...? It does made in Carbon, but not 100% carbon fiber.....they added something so it looks like carbon, not meshed carbon graphite like the upgrade radio deck, but they are carbon.

The carbon upgrade is a joke, they are lighter, but snap like a chop stick.

I never try the RDLogic diff case, I was thinking about that untill I saw the material that they used on the diff case - CASTING ALUMINUM, then I know I can save my $20.

[thefuzzclub]

Just wansted to ask if anyone have tried this engine to your ntc3. Please advise if there will be modifications when installing the engine.

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I have been using FAST rear tire 30mm w/o any rubbing problem. But when i tried JACO rear tire 30mm and it is touching the steering hub... I was wondering has anyone of you guys using JACO tire with this problem? Any idea to prevent rubbing???

Thanks.

[supra528]

ok, i know that a lot of you guys have sirios so ill ask here.... what temp. do i want the car to be running at when im running at the track???? and what are the factory settings on this engine??? like in turns out???? and is there anything really diff. that i have to do when i break it in???

[johnnybp7]

Originally posted by thefuzzclub
Just wansted to ask if anyone have tried this engine to your ntc3. Please advise if there will be modifications when installing the engine.

I have this engine in my NTC3 with the K-Factory Centax Clutch and there is zero modifications required. Now I'm not 100% sure if you need to modify any thing using the stock clutch, I don't think you do.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Hi,

I have been using FAST rear tire 30mm w/o any rubbing problem. But when i tried JACO rear tire 30mm and it is touching the steering hub... I was wondering has anyone of you guys using JACO tire with this problem? Any idea to prevent rubbing???

Thanks.

That's what I heard (they are suppose to design for NTC3 only and it rubs...), but I think adding a small washer after teh hex nut of the wheel should resolve the problem.

[Rookie Solara]

Just want to share these diagrams with you guys about the shock towers FIX or cheap FIX, and you go decide which one you are going forward....

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/cad/ntc-1.jpg

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/cad/ntc-2.jpg

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/cad/ntc-3.jpg

[KronicRacer]

excellent desciption!!!!:eek:

[kreidel1]

I am not sure I get it????? Are there any videos available? Maybe some college courses on " the Fix" After all the time spent on explaining how well the Fix works to some people just seems crazy. It works great....buy them...dont buy them... Bam...your choice. You know some of you guys debating buying the Fix would buy a flashy gas cap lid and everyone knows thats worthless and exspensive. But here is a guy making these and they work and they are realitively cheap and you order them and install them and your done, or you can go to the hardware store, spend time in traffic and driving there and look to see if you can find the stuff to make them and them still spend money to purchase the stuff and then spend the time to rig it all up. I am sure I didnt have to go into detail about all that but think about it alittle. I see alot of other questions going unanswered...lets look at those and leave this subject to rest.

[wrxdan]

Sweet diagram Howard! Did you use AutoCad? I know a guy that owns a machine shop in Elmhurst, I should ask what he charges to make various aluminum parts. He has a nice CNC machine there. He does work for Navistar (sp?) Not sure if he is equipped to make small parts. He also pits crews on a alcohol funny car.

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
those al;uminum cases that were on ebay are crap the guys at the track had a laughing fit when we saw the cases after a wrek there not even cnc'd.....there are crap.... if anything use the carbon diff cases and the fix.

They work great for me. After a wreck, things tend to break don't you think so? How did that person wreck his car?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by wrxdan
Sweet diagram Howard! Did you use AutoCad? I know a guy that owns a machine shop in Elmhurst, I should ask what he charges to make various aluminum parts. He has a nice CNC machine there. He does work for Navistar (sp?) Not sure if he is equipped to make small parts. He also pits crews on a alcohol funny car.

Lets bootleg the whole thing and sell them in ebay for $15 instead of $25 (just kidding).......yeah, if you can, let me know, I can do cad, cadcam, Pro-E, 3Ds max4, lightscape, lightwave.....I can't do CGI cause I cannot afford one.

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Lets bootleg the whole thing and sell them in ebay for $15 instead of $25 (just kidding).......yeah, if you can, let me know, I can do cad, cadcam, Pro-E, 3Ds max4, lightscape, lightwave.....I can't do CGI cause I cannot afford one.

No kidding! Just think of the markup! Material cost for these parts is probably pennies. I own him a favor for fixing a stripped bolt on my old camaro intake. I'll have to stop in and clean his shop or do some small lathe work. Then I can ask him. What NTC3 parts should I show him? Tranny cases, shock towers, arms? He may just laugh at me, his shop makes intake manifolds for large turcks.

[frank13]

ok i need to buy some tires for my ntc3 for the racing season , and am curious on what to get ,,, there are soo many choices,, i see the nitro shoes on tower , but at 20 a piece they are pretty pricey ,,

also what size and if anyone knows of anyone with any really good deals please let me in ,,

i just need to know what to start with and what sizes and shores/colors to get

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by wrxdan
No kidding! Just think of the markup! Material cost for these parts is probably pennies. I own him a favor for fixing a stripped bolt on my old camaro intake. I'll have to stop in and clean his shop or do some small lathe work. Then I can ask him. What NTC3 parts should I show him? Tranny cases, shock towers, arms? He may just laugh at me, his shop makes intake manifolds for large turcks.

No....forget about the RC car, pull in your WRX and start wrenching the intake of yours......Com'on, you just cannot run STOCK WRX in Chicago, did you know that...? At least not the Rally BLUE one, that is against the law......

I know the WRX Chicago Forum deviision ppl and they are more then happy to help you to SPEND some nice money on your WRX (may be some STi option direct from Japan will help)....then you can have your friend to relocate the intercooler to a better location or increase the size of the turbo booster....etc

[Distro]

Originally posted by frank13
ok i need to buy some tires for my ntc3 for the racing season , and am curious on what to get ,,, there are soo many choices,, i see the nitro shoes on tower , but at 20 a piece they are pretty pricey ,,

also what size and if anyone knows of anyone with any really good deals please let me in ,,

i just need to know what to start with and what sizes and shores/colors to get

The tires you want to look for are Jaco 26mm fronts and 30mm rears and Fast Tires 26mm and 30mm. The average compound would be E or 40 shore (same just different rating styles).

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
No....forget about the RC car, pull in your WRX and start wrenching the intake of yours......Com'on, you just cannot run STOCK WRX in Chicago, did you know that...? At least not the Rally BLUE one, that is against the law......

I know the WRX Chicago Forum deviision ppl and they are more then happy to help you to SPEND some nice money on your WRX (may be some STi option direct from Japan will help)....then you can have your friend to relocate the intercooler to a better location or increase the size of the turbo booster....etc

Never said mine was stock:)

[frank13]

just one tire,, not that i am complaining ,,


and the tires you mean are they the nitro shoes, or the dish ones, .. just curious,,

[tOrcHed Lh]

woohooo i got a digital camera so check out my car

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL61/959237/1779036/21054441.jpg

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL61/959237/1779036/21054456.jpg

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL61/959237/1779036/21054426.jpg

things to note:
my ghetto failsafe smashed in the rx box
my bling bling roll bar
my dremel skillzzz demonstrated by the great shave job i did on the bumper :D

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
They work great for me. After a wreck, things tend to break don't you think so? How did that person wreck his car?


coming off the straight the guy gets t boned by a reflex in the right front tire area into the wall into the rear end lifts up procceds to a tumble and flip 3-4 times flew 8 feet across the track when the dust settled the entire front end was cracked amd shattered (the guy with the reflexhad a radio glitch). :(

yea things tend to break i agree. the cases could have better construction i.m.o. ;)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by wrxdan
Never said mine was stock:)

Wait, TYPE-R or Powered by NISMO stickers are not considered MODIFICATION man..........:D (just kidding)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by frank13
just one tire,, not that i am complaining ,,


and the tires you mean are they the nitro shoes, or the dish ones, .. just curious,,

Yes, he was referring to JACO, they made a new line called Nitro shoes just for NTC3 (I think).....40 shore front and rear are most team driver use but with different width and offset (from 0-2) and from 30-45 shores.

Beside Nitro shoes, try the Serpent Impulse PRO rims/tires by Ellegi, the yellow 5-spokes, however, the rim construction are not top of the line, easy to break. Shores like 30-45 and 26 front and 30 rear......they are exactly the same with FAST TIRES and several others with different name, they just re-batch them into different name and different rims. DISH or SPOKES, personal preference, but DISH is more for race over spokes, cause it is a little faster, and no rim/spokes breaking problem, but ugly and you cannot adjust your camber without removing the rim from the car....

You want more, try CRC track magnet rear, 35mm outlaw foams, if your car still fish tail with that foams, you should stick with the Radio shack RC car instead......but you will need spacer, otherwise it will rub.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Wait, TYPE-R or Powered by NISMO stickers are not considered MODIFICATION man..........:D (just kidding)

dont forget mazda speed or trd last i heard those sticker pump out and additional 150 hp:D ;)

[wrxdan]

Don't forget the 4 tier aluminum wing. I need the down force when I hit the NAWWSS. My stock aluminum hood wasn't good enough and I didn't have the money for a carbon fiber hood so I sculpted some paper mache to make a hood. That's got to add 20+ HP.:)

My car is mostly stock, just a CAI. If I’m not lazy this summer I may put an uppipe and down pipe on. I wish I had the money for a nice set of rims and tires. Wife thinks that's not a good way to spend 2+Gs. I guess I wait.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by wrxdan
Don't forget the 4 tier aluminum wing. I need the down force when I hit the NAWWSS. My stock aluminum hood wasn't good enough and I didn't have the money for a carbon fiber hood so I sculpted some paper mache to make a hood. That's got to add 20+ HP.:)

My car is mostly stock, just a CAI. If I’m not lazy this summer I may put an uppipe and down pipe on. I wish I had the money for a nice set of rims and tires. Wife thinks that's not a good way to spend 2+Gs. I guess I wait.

I told my wife that those 18x8 rims are $300 for 4 with new tires, they are made in china so they are cheap......my S-afc is something from Radio shack, so it is cheap, my RMM intake is from my RC car, so it is cheap, my Supercharger is from some no name TRD brand, so it is cheap, and my Apex N1 exhaust is from the morning coffee can modified, so it is free.......the most expensive parts are those TRD carbon Graphite badge........$9.99 each from Japan....and the spec said it will generate extra laterial force and down force for my car........I can actually feel the different, especially when my car parked in the garage.

I have plenty of Carbon Fiber stickers, I think I can do a carbon fiber hood for you for like............$500 an hour sounds OK to you?

Not to mention I just installed 75 shox/bottles of NOSESXXXXXXXXXXX manufactured by Videl Sassoon, $3.99 each from local super market, and I will do a Dyno tomorrow, and I will post the result of it compare to my NTC3 and Micro. (They said garantee 200 plus HP gain per inch, I don't believe it, may be 185)

[DOOD]

About the Fix, is it easy to install? With that long 4-40x 1 1/4" screw, is it easy to thread in from the bottom of the chassis all the way to the tube?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by DOOD
About the Fix, is it easy to install? With that long 4-40x 1 1/4" screw, is it easy to thread in from the bottom of the chassis all the way to the tube?

just make sure you have a good hex wrench set:)

[fastharry]

Originally posted by DOOD
About the Fix, is it easy to install? With that long 4-40x 1 1/4" screw, is it easy to thread in from the bottom of the chassis all the way to the tube?


they tell you to use a4 40 tap to get the treads in teh middle of the case that the stock screws didn't come near..I did mine with teh cases in the car..I used an MIP wrench(very good) and some losi teflon assembly lube....I just took it nice and slow..it went in fine..

[Mook9304]

Can anyone give me some information on tc3 far as breaking in the engine .How it handles, is it a good a car to get .

[JWF_FRANI]

mook it is a great handling car that is easy to work on
as for breaking in the engine I idle the engine 4 tanks
first two tanks using 3 min intervals. to let it cool off.
on the fifth tank i gradually lean it out and putter around
less than half throttle till the 8th tank where I put the
needle settings close to race settings.

[Mook9304]

Thank You jwf frani

[JWF_FRANI]

how do you guys post those pictures i tried posting a pic
of my car but it got denied because the file was to big.

[pep88]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rookie Solara
[B]Just want to share these diagrams with you guys about the shock towers FIX or cheap FIX, and you go decide which one you are going forward....

Dang! I cant see squat! Can you repost? I wanted to check out the pics!
:D

Thanks

[wrxdan]

Anybody installed any Golden Horizons parts on their NTC3? Is this stuff junk? How do they compare to AEs parts?

Dan

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by pep88

Dang! I cant see squat! Can you repost? I wanted to check out the pics!
:D

Thanks

Those diagrams still there............

[Rookie Solara]

Dan......I know I would get the GH front blade sway bar, it is like $20 less then the AE one, still alum, and they look the same, and I don't think AE one are that much ($20) better......

Beside the front blade, they are like K-factory and GPM. Eye candy option parts.

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Dan......I know I would get the GH front blade sway bar, it is like $20 less then the AE one, still alum, and they look the same, and I don't think AE one are that much ($20) better......

Beside the front blade, they are like K-factory and GPM. Eye candy option parts.

Thanks!!

I have one confession. I was trying to figure out how to make the NTC3's crappy antenna mount work. I found an old plastic mount from my old Bolink pan car. Drilled out the bottom, slipped it over the existing mount. Then ran a 4-40 screw and nut to hold it down. I finish this last night, then jump on here and found a pic of your car. Mine looks like yours! Doh!! Not intentional, just the best way I think to do this. Sorry to copy, but it's sound engineering. I just blame AE.

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I am going to change the gear combination to 20/26 and 54/48 and hope will give me more punch and top end. While i am going to do this and thinking about may replace the clutch shoe as well if neccessary. I had about 2 gallons on my NTC3. Just wondering how often to change the clutch shoe. I don't have the manual with me and wondering is it the stock one from below? Where i can download NTC3 Kit manual? I can't find it from AE web site.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBMD4&P=7


Thanks.

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Hi,

I am going to change the gear combination to 20/26 and 54/48 and hope will give me more punch and top end. While i am going to do this and thinking about may replace the clutch shoe as well if neccessary. I had about 2 gallons on my NTC3. Just wondering how often to change the clutch shoe. I don't have the manual with me and wondering is it the stock one from below? Where i can download NTC3 Kit manual? I can't find it from AE web site.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBMD4&P=7


Thanks.

On AEs site (rc10.com) click the Parts Catalog link on the left side. Then scroll down to the picture of the NTC3 box. You will see a 1, 2, and a 3. Download all 3 to get the complete manual.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by wrxdan
Thanks!!

I have one confession. I was trying to figure out how to make the NTC3's crappy antenna mount work. I found an old plastic mount from my old Bolink pan car. Drilled out the bottom, slipped it over the existing mount. Then ran a 4-40 screw and nut to hold it down. I finish this last night, then jump on here and found a pic of your car. Mine looks like yours! Doh!! Not intentional, just the best way I think to do this. Sorry to copy, but it's sound engineering. I just blame AE.

You know, I take COPYRIGHT and PIRACY very seriously..........what are you going to copy next? My S60 body scheme or my chinese accent? (just kidding)
Like I told you before, my NTC3 was used, I don't even know that antanna stand is not from AE......

[NTC3NUT]

wrxdan,
I have the GH chassis & adjustable handle, both very nice pieces. I have also seen first hand several of their other pieces, as well as several pieces from GPM & K-Factory.I would put them above GPM (mostly junk), and K-Factory (a few worth while parts). The main reason is that most of the GPM stuff appears machined from billet, while alot of the GPM & K-Factory stuff looks like it's machined from cast. Just my 2 cents.

[socaliracer]

Can someone tell me if a Collari .12RTs6s5 is a good motor or not,it has 5 ports and heard it is pretty fast but hard to tune so drop me a line and give me some input before i go and buy one of these things thanks doug

[pep88]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Those diagrams still there............

oh, ya I can see it now. For some reason I couldnt see it for 2 days :confused:

Great work, thanks a lot!
:D

[coastal-tony]

socall
Collari makes good engines, but quite touchy to tune. I changed carbs on two of mine.
I have had REAL good luck with the Sirios. YGM