Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v3.0

[Pro3/nmt105]

actually I think these arem them, can anyone verify this?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJY03&P=K
talk about expensive8.59 for 12 tiny nuts

[SimonFDR]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXWS38&P=K

^^^^^ Those fit ^^^^^

[Pro3/nmt105]

what do u think of these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRP63&P=K

Rookie saloria I see you used 1 1/2 in screws on your fix, will these screws fit if I use regular thinner servo washers rather than the eyecandy ones? (sorry for so many questions)

[SimonFDR]

Pro, where do you see rookies pics?

[SimonFDR]

Heres a pic of my setup

[Canada]

simon where is your handle do you not use it to save weight or something :)

[GP40X]

I'm thinking about a NTC3 RTR with a 2 speed kit. Do I need extra pinion gears, or does the 2 speed kit come with 2 pinion gears? (I know the kit has the spur gears...)

I won't be racing....just parking lot running.

Oh....I've looked all over the Associated NTC3 forum (on their website), and can't find anything on break-in on the .12 engine. One of the forum moderators, who answers questions, said the info is in the engine manual on the website. NO IT's NOT! Does anyone know where it can be found online?

I can't find any McCoy MC-59 glow plugs anywhere online. Will an OS #A3 work? If not, what will work in place of a McCoy MC-59??

Anything else I need to know before I get one?

Thanks!

Allen T

Allen,

The 2 speed will come with a 50 & 54 tooth spur gears & the 22 & & 26 pinion gears. Remember, if you are using the 50 & 54 tooth spur gears, it's best to keep the pinion split to 4 teeth (20/24 21/25, 22/26, or 23/27). If you get a 48 tooth second gear you can use a 20/26 or a 21/27 for both more low end & top end.

The AE.15 & the AE .12 instructions arer virtually the same (same break-in procedure). You can go th the AE site & get the .15 engine manual. Also when you get the car, it will come with an engine manual for the .12 engine.

If you are using the AE 12 engine, use the MC-59 plug. You can pick up one for aboutr $4.00 or $5.00 each. It would cost more in shipping to mail order unless you order a couple of cards of 8 plugs.

Bill (NTC3 RTR)

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by Canada
simon where is your handle do you not use it to save weight or something :)

Who needs a handle lol =) Funny how you noticed. Yes, my car is on a diet and thats the only think I can take off right now =(... LoL no, My handle has a hole thats clogged by the bottom of a screw. I think I'm going to leave it off.

[Allen T]

GP40X,

Thanks for the reply!

Allen T

[JREEVES]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Holy Cow! Now that's a chasis! Now, with the fix and chasis, it sounds almost worth $150. Will the top deck have the left side brace as well? And will the 'fix' be in a color to match the chasis? it would be a shame if it weren't
Yes the top deck will have the left side brace and yes the Fix will be blue anodized to match the chassis unless anyone wants them both brite anodized.

[JREEVES]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
The only thing about that chassi is that it might be too ridged and it might cause more agreessive(twitchy IMO) handeling like the hard core chassi. If you like that its ok but for some people itll make it harder for them to drive.
Part of the design of this chassis is to eliminate the torque-steer that is inherent in the stock chassis from side twisting under load.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Rookie Saloria who makes those purple nuts that your using to hold on your shocks? are they trinity? I was looking to get those in blue could one of these fit?:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWS39&P=K

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWS38&P=K

anybody tried these?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRP63&P=K

Sorry to ask this again but no one responded when I asked it a few pages back.

Thanks

They are TRINITY, the small one, forgot the # and the size.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
what do u think of these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRP63&P=K

Rookie saloria I see you used 1 1/2 in screws on your fix, will these screws fit if I use regular thinner servo washers rather than the eyecandy ones? (sorry for so many questions)

If you use regular metal washer (like 1mm thick), try to use 1-1/4" long 4-40 instead of 1-1/2"........those eye candy washer does raise up the screw a little so 1-1/2" will work perfectly, but if you are using regular washer, get shorter screw like 1-1/4".

The last thing you want to see it the screen touching the TOP of the screws coming from the bottom of the chassis........

Also, you can cut a little bit material off the 1-1/2" 4-40 and get a perfect fit.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
Pro, where do you see rookies pics?

They are all here............enjoy (ALL SHOW and NO GO...mofo)

BTW, nice setup system, like I said, you will not regrat that you pick INTEGY over Hudy..........especially those end wheel nuts, it fit wheel axle on metric threads like Serpent, Kyosho, Mugen, Tamiya, but it also fit NTC3 Standard threads.......how wonderfull.

NTC pictures (http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/)

[Distro]

Me thinks jim should let me run with that prototype chassis against barry this weekend..

[Drive4fun]

Hehe that will be cool

[Drive4fun]

Hehe that will be cool

[JREEVES]

Hey Distro, are you in Clearwater? I know Barry is due at Speedline this weekend and some of us will be there! Not sure if the prototype will make an appearance though, but we'll have The Fix! I've been told Barry had it in his car at Ft.Myers for the winternats but haven't seen pics to verify that.

[fastharry]

nice jim....I'm in a NJ winter,and your sunning yourself....:p

are those things ready yet?...

[SimonFDR]

JREEVES, I need a chassis... When can I get one?

[JWF_FRANI]

wow that chasis is nice the machining looks top notch

[xfader]

I have a NTC3 kit and a Mugen MT12 motor. When I assembled it, I didn't use the collet that came with the kit. It looked like if I put it on, the gears would not line up properly. My question is how important is it to have it on, or is it simply a spacer to line up the gears in case it doesn't w/o it. Any advice?

Also, what's going on with the fix? I just broke my front upper tranny case, and I was wondering if I should try the fix or just buy more cases.

Thanks,

x

[Distro]

Originally posted by JREEVES
Hey Distro, are you in Clearwater? I know Barry is due at Speedline this weekend and some of us will be there! Not sure if the prototype will make an appearance though, but we'll have The Fix! I've been told Barry had it in his car at Ft.Myers for the winternats but haven't seen pics to verify that.

Yeah i'm evan, pretty sure i know you.

[Distro]

Originally posted by xfader
I have a NTC3 kit and a Mugen MT12 motor. When I assembled it, I didn't use the collet that came with the kit. It looked like if I put it on, the gears would not line up properly. My question is how important is it to have it on, or is it simply a spacer to line up the gears in case it doesn't w/o it. Any advice?

Also, what's going on with the fix? I just broke my front upper tranny case, and I was wondering if I should try the fix or just buy more cases.

Thanks,

x

Pretty sure you need the collet that came with the ntc3 on there because of the size difference between the stock one and the flywheel.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by xfader
I have a NTC3 kit and a Mugen MT12 motor. When I assembled it, I didn't use the collet that came with the kit. It looked like if I put it on, the gears would not line up properly. My question is how important is it to have it on, or is it simply a spacer to line up the gears in case it doesn't w/o it. Any advice?

Also, what's going on with the fix? I just broke my front upper tranny case, and I was wondering if I should try the fix or just buy more cases.

Thanks,

x


Uh...I think you answered your own question..get the fix.....

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
They are all here............enjoy (ALL SHOW and NO GO...mofo)

BTW, nice setup system, like I said, you will not regrat that you pick INTEGY over Hudy..........especially those end wheel nuts, it fit wheel axle on metric threads like Serpent, Kyosho, Mugen, Tamiya, but it also fit NTC3 Standard threads.......how wonderfull.

NTC pictures (http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/)

Hi Rookie,

I got the setup kit from Integy, but the end wheel nuts did not fit the NTC3. Do I need to force the nuts on? Is there any proper procedure in doing the setup? Can I find it somewhere?
The reason I ask is that setting the camber with the wheel on using the AE camber gauage is different from setting the camber using integy kit when the wheel is not on.

I've gotten the laser tweak kit too. but not sure if I am using it the right way...

[Distro]

Did you get one with metric nuts? The stock nuts for the setup system, atleast in the U.S. are standard.

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Rookie,

I got the setup kit from Integy, but the end wheel nuts did not fit the NTC3. Do I need to force the nuts on? Is there any proper procedure in doing the setup? Can I find it somewhere?
The reason I ask is that setting the camber with the wheel on using the AE camber gauage is different from setting the camber using integy kit when the wheel is not on.

I've gotten the laser tweak kit too. but not sure if I am using it the right way...


They fit my NTC3 perfectly

[JREEVES]

Hey Harry!! Thanks again, we sent 300 Fixes off to the anodizer this week, I'll let you know when we get em back. Hope ole man winter lets go of you guys soon!

Hey Distro [Evan]!! You should have won the Pro main Sunday, if not for that extra pit stop... Guess I'll see ya this weekend!

SimonFDR, I'll let everybody know as soon as the chassis go to production, working on the topdeck now...

[SimonFDR]

jreeves thats cool. =)

[Striker]

Quick question. Does "Take Off" have a websight? I've been looking to see who distribites these tires. Is "Take Off" the brand name, or just the tire name? Need to know. Thanks for the help.

[Allen T]

Does the RTR version have a single or two needle carb? (.12 engine)

Thanks,

Allen T

[Striker]

The RTR comes with a 2 needle carb.

[thefuzzclub]

After my stock .12 ae engine, I am buying my 2nd engine tomorrow for my ntc3. Will try racing this time, our track(asphalt) is more technical less straights. Still confuse between the two. Need your inputs please.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by JREEVES
Hey Harry!! Thanks again, we sent 300 Fixes off to the anodizer this week, I'll let you know when we get em back. Hope ole man winter lets go of you guys soon!

Hey Distro [Evan]!! You should have won the Pro main Sunday, if not for that extra pit stop... Guess I'll see ya this weekend!

SimonFDR, I'll let everybody know as soon as the chassis go to production, working on the topdeck now...
Are you anodizing the fixes a color, if so what color? or are you having them hard anodized?

[theShark]

Originally posted by tOrcHed Lh

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL61/959237/1779036/21054441.jpg



nice....what tires are those?

[waileun]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
They fit my NTC3 perfectly

Hi Simon,

just wonder if you need to apply force to screw it on the ntc3? Does it lock all the way in?

[Drive4fun]

I have tried too aply a picture but it says that the image is too big how to i make it smaller to be able to post it?
Thanks
CHeers

[penggoy]

anyone here knows the size of the screw thats on the servo( futaba 9404). Its the screw that hold the servo arm. Is it ok to apply threadlock on it because I already lost 2 screws? Are u guys using rubber grommets for the servo? Also where can I buy the rx battery (separate because Im going to make it myself) AND the glow plug battery ( sanyo cadnica kf-1300sc). I called the 2 LHS here and they both told me that they dont have those parts. Homedepot, walmart etc. would be better but if they don't have those I'll just have to order them online. thnx

btw what's the maximum current (maH) that I should have on rx battery?

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Simon,

just wonder if you need to apply force to screw it on the ntc3? Does it lock all the way in?


Its just perfect. No force

[Pro3/nmt105]

I finally got a hosting site so I can post some pics of my ntc3, it has celiphane over the carb hole and glow plug hole because I havent gotten an airfilter or glowplug yet and Im afraid dust'll get in.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid55/pd937cceb5e6ef89d5fb1d1dc7cfe7925/fc81450b.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid55/p61064f40c70cfb11b3288cceb24ee8fb/fc814450.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid55/pf93bf169e730e95f2be5d7f0f8d69e3d/fc81447f.jpg

[tallyrc]

john..errr, striker here is the distributer info you need...magmarc int. (http://www.magmarc.com/pages/catalog/magma.htm)

[tOrcHed Lh]

Originally posted by theShark
nice....what tires are those?

thoes are medial pro's... by far the best treaded tire i've ever used.

[tallyrc]

striker, the ias tires i also mentioned, by gs silicones, are the same ones torched is referencing as the best he'd ever used. they are visible in the pic above with the car with the cv-r. see them at generalsilicones.com

[nad138]

Am also using the medial pro IAS and seems to be pretty good. It doesn't need inserts as it uses the same rubber compound and forms hex patterns as a replacement.

I do have a question. My GPM pivot ball in my lower front arm broke when I hit the wall. I managed to remove the half stuck in the thread so I tried replacing it with the standard pivot ball (AE# 2246) but seems that the thread is different from the GPM one. Do you guys know where I can score a replacement. I can't seem to find it on-line. Thanks guys.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by nad138
Am also using the medial pro IAS and seems to be pretty good. It doesn't need inserts as it uses the same rubber compound and forms hex patterns as a replacement.

I do have a question. My GPM pivot ball in my lower front arm broke when I hit the wall. I managed to remove the half stuck in the thread so I tried replacing it with the standard pivot ball (AE# 2246) but seems that the thread is different from the GPM one. Do you guys know where I can score a replacement. I can't seem to find it on-line. Thanks guys.

Speak to NTC3NUT or Rookie Solara - they got those GPM arms also.....

[OutKast]

For all you RTR'ers out there how about some Alum. Threaded shocks? http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=938276#post938276

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by nad138
Am also using the medial pro IAS and seems to be pretty good. It doesn't need inserts as it uses the same rubber compound and forms hex patterns as a replacement.

I do have a question. My GPM pivot ball in my lower front arm broke when I hit the wall. I managed to remove the half stuck in the thread so I tried replacing it with the standard pivot ball (AE# 2246) but seems that the thread is different from the GPM one. Do you guys know where I can score a replacement. I can't seem to find it on-line. Thanks guys.
ebay, ive seen many of them

[nad138]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
ebay, ive seen many of them

checked but none from GPM. If I do find one, it comes with the suspension arms as a set which I don't need.

tnx for the reply.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Ive seen sets of just the ti pivot balls for the aluminum arms on ebay, they should show up sometime soon.

[NTC3NUT]

You should be able to get a complete titanium set (8) off Ebay for $25. They are a smaller metric thread. I'll see if I can find them for you.

Ok, Here you go. I know we're not supposed to put in links to Ebay adds, but this is the guy to contact about the GPM stuff. I bought my titanium pillow ball set from him, I think he can get anything GPM.

http://**************/ws/*******************************3121768058&category=19168

[Drive4fun]

Hi,
I will be getting a nitro tc3 rtr at the end of this month and i cant wait! My first nitro I have an electric right now 1/10 scale. The first thing is i will practice and get to learn the car but after that i will be racing later on and i wanted to know what are the best hop ups for the car arms, hubs, engine, electronics, batteries, Pipe, Tools, chassis, etc.. There are so many hop up parts made by so many different companies and i dont know which one to choose from?!? Graphite, Aluminum etc... I will also be needing setups... If you guys would be kind enough please list some things that are at top quality and worth the money Thank you Very much I appriciate it
Cheers

[Drive4fun]

Can I find anyplace that have the parts to these cars and what they used like in electronics and hop ups?!?! Ive seen the pictures but i got no idea what the parts are and from which company Anyone know anywhere that shows the parts used in either one of these cars?

Barry Baker's TQ NTC3

Mark Pavidis' winning NTC3

Thank you
Cheers
I hope im not asking too much

[Twist 2 Go]

Mark's winning car has been in a couple of magazines lately. Iwant to say RC Car Action and I think it's this month's Xtreme RC CArs as well.

[Drive4fun]

Yes Ive seen the Rc Car Action but i didnt see the parts that he was running does anyone know where i can find the parts he uses on the net? thank you
cheers

[penggoy]

Originally posted by penggoy
anyone here knows the size of the screw thats on the servo( futaba 9404). Its the screw that hold the servo arm. Is it ok to apply threadlock on it because I already lost 2 screws? Are u guys using rubber grommets for the servo? Also where can I buy the rx battery (separate because Im going to make it myself) AND the glow plug battery ( sanyo cadnica kf-1300sc). I called the 2 LHS here and they both told me that they dont have those parts. Homedepot, walmart etc. would be better but if they don't have those I'll just have to order them online. thnx

btw what's the maximum current (maH) that I should have on rx battery?

anyone?

[theShark]

Originally posted by tOrcHed Lh
thoes are medial pro's... by far the best treaded tire i've ever used.

thanks...i saw a few people using them and they seem to hold up pretty good

[Distro]

Barry's car is pretty much stock depending on the track, i also noticed he is using the steel RTR driveshafts up front though..

[Drive4fun]

Yeah but im getting the rtr... so its different from the kit but ill be making mine into the kit i guess if thats the best thing to do or what should i be using ?? what are good parts to put into the car and worth the money?

[fastharry]

if your that intent on Barry bakers car,get the kit..the material in the RTR is a lower grade and more flexible...with a chassis thats made by Thunder tiger,not to mention other parts...(and that TT chassis bends)...

barry was running a kit car,with upgraded factory team chassis,and ALL the factory team graphite parts......


I would'nt worry about barrys car..I'd get the kit,biuld it STOCK,and learn how to drive it first..

[TAW]

Hey PRO3/NMT105, you need to take the head off that Sirio and turn it 90 degrees. If you look from the front to the back of the car right now you will see that no air can pass through the head. This will make the motor run hotter.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by TAW
Hey PRO3/NMT105, you need to take the head off that Sirio and turn it 90 degrees. If you look from the front to the back of the car right now you will see that no air can pass through the head. This will make the motor run hotter.

Yeah i noticed that 2......
i done mine when i first put the engine in my car.....
u gotta turn it so cooling holes are in line with the car...

[NTC3Fan]

Got my Package on Friday containing "The FIX"
Jim Reeves ur one awsome guy... u were right it would arrive a week later and it did....
Yes this really does work... u have no idea how rigid the whole assembly is now..... if i hit something now... i doubt it will ever rip the shock tower out.... no way....
Heres a pic on how $25 can save ur bacon.....

http://home.worldonline.co.za/~20149680/Pictures/THEFIXjpg.jpg

Rather spend $25 on "The FIX" then some eye candy bolt that goes around ur antenna.....:D :D

Cheers
Bevan

[fastharry]

that is a great product...and please...no more "I can make my own [almost] fix for 3 dollars and 98 cents" threads.....

[Drive4fun]

Yes once i get my ntc3 i will make the fix all i need to do is go back and read how to make one it looks nice but kind of expensive heh aight
Cheers

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by fastharry
that is a great product...and please...no more "I can make my own [almost] fix for 3 dollars and 98 cents" threads.....

ROTFL!!

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Drive4fun
Yes once i get my ntc3 i will make the fix all i need to do is go back and read how to make one it looks nice but kind of expensive heh aight
Cheers

Ur not gonna be able to make it the same as the "Original $25 Fix"
they specially machined the screws and the top bolt section so they basically screw into each other.... ive looked and nobody makes those screws so i think its worth $25 for them to make them......

Lol!! and further proof they make them... mine came with 2 pieces of shavings in the packet from the mill.....:D :D

[Drive4fun]

Then i will buy it :D haha

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Drive4fun
Then i will buy it :D haha

Was that so hard to say????:D :D

cmon everyone now.... "I will buy the $25 Fix"

Yes my brothers and sisters we have saved another one.......:p :p :p

Cheers!!

[Drive4fun]

LoL i think you guys make a big profit out of this dont you hehe dont look like $25 to me though hehe

[NTC3Fan]

i need some help here....
has someone got a few pics of what happend to their shock tower when they hit/were hit by somebody and were not using the fix??


Cheers

[cbr74]

Annodize it blue and nobody'd ever question the price tag.

[JREEVES]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Yes this really does work... u have no idea how rigid the whole assembly is now..... if i hit something now... i doubt it will ever rip the shock tower out.... no way....
Heres a pic on how $25 can save ur bacon.....

Cheers
Bevan

Thanks Bevan, we sold out of them at the state race here in Clearwater today, I think every NTC3 but Barry Baker's had The Fix! And he may have wished he did, he ran the first 25 minutes flawlessly but in the last 5 he hit the wall twice, popped ballcups and loosened all 5 top screws in his diff case/shocktower even though he says he used red threadlocker in them. He blamed it all on his Rx pack failing, but it seemed odd that he could still turn the wheels and throttle the engine! Even though he went from 12.7 second laps to 17+ second laps he managed to win the A by about a dozen!

[fastharry]

Originally posted by JREEVES
Thanks Bevan, we sold out of them at the state race here in Clearwater today, I think every NTC3 but Barry Baker's had The Fix! And he may have wished he did, he ran the first 25 minutes flawlessly but in the last 5 he hit the wall twice, popped ballcups and loosened all 5 top screws in his diff case/shocktower even though he says he used red threadlocker in them. He blamed it all on his Rx pack failing, but it seemed odd that he could still turn the wheels and throttle the engine! Even though he went from 12.7 second laps to 17+ second laps he managed to win the A by about a dozen!




all right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



the fix and the Nitro TC3......can ANYTHING stop this runaway freight train????????????:D :D :D


hey jim...how about a little race report...how many tc3's vs Srpents and mugens were there...and how did teh tc3's do overall...any other big names there?............

[JREEVES]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan

Lol!! and further proof they make them... mine came with 2 pieces of shavings in the packet from the mill.....:D :D
Hey NTC3Fan, no extra charge for the shavings man!

[JREEVES]

Here's a rundown...
Barry Baker NTC3
Randy Coleman NTC3
Dave Franklin NTC3
Evin Eckert NTC3
Ronny Setser NTC3
Victor Franco NTC3
Paul Wynn Schumacher RS12 Fusion...
I'm not sure who else ran or where they placed outside of Barry and Randy, check www.speedlinehobbies.com in the next couple days for the results. The Schumacher was the fastest on the track but broke with 1:30 minutes to go in the 30 minute main. Barry was the smoothest by far of course. Always a pleasure to watch a pro in action!

[frank13]

i hate to do this to you just but selling or promoting products from ebay ,, or as a business, is not permitted in this forum.


frank13
moderator

[GP40X]

i need some help here....
has someone got a few pics of what happend to their shock tower when they hit/were hit by somebody and were not using the fix??

No, but I can describe it to you in great detail. While having a REAL BAD day at the track (See below) I hit the board hard in the main & thought I had just broken a pivot ball cap since I could still drive the car. When I got back to my pit after the main, I found the shock tower ripped out of the diff case & was only held on by the right side screw. The left screw hole & the center screw hole in the diff case were broken out & the center screw was missing (somewhere in the track). When I pulled it apart yesterday, I found out the right screw was bent & I bounced off the boards so many times, I bent both front lower pivot balls. BTW, the RTR outdrives are definitely tough. I bet I het the boards about 20 times that day & didn't bend any outdrive shafts.

The car is all better now ($14.00 in parts & some elbow grease later). I also added the half inch 4-40 screws to the center and gear side of both cases to help hold it until I can pick up a couple of sets of "The Fix."

To give you an idea of my first race day in 12 years & my first day of Nitro racing ever, I couldn't get it to handle in practice (pushing on power, loose off power) because I couldn't keep the engine running and never got the engine tuned quite right or the car adjusted to handle. The "C" alkaline glow plug igniter had an intermittant open circuit & I still had the engine too rich & it was flodding. The battery for the new starter box died so I had to use the battery from the 1:1 car. I didn't start the first heat due to a tap on the board while warming up & one of the alkaline batteries moved in the holder shutting down the radio. I got that fixed & was able to get 4 laps in before the end if the heat. In the second heat, the engine was still too rich & the engine flamed out after a full throttle blast down the back straight. It loaded up on the sweeper & when I nailed it again, flame out (still pushing but not as bad thanks to the help of the other racers there). After some more help from Brian (he loaned me a good glow plug igniter & helped me get the car straightened out) I started warming up for the main & was glad the car is finally turning now. I had also leaned out the top end needle by 1/8th turn & the low speed needle by 1/4 turn. About two minutes into the main, I overshot a turn & hit the pit wall board so hard the engine came loose & I lost gear mesh. Chris, the guy helping me pit for the main got the engine readjusted & I was able to continue the race. With about three minutes to go I had a brain fade & hit the same board in the same plave again hard enough to break the diff case. I did finish the race since the car was still running & I was able to limp it around the track. Somehow after all the trouble I had that day, I still managed to pull off a third place finish (Novice Nitro Main 8 cars started & six finished including my broke NTC3 RTR). That made the whole day seem much better.

Bill (NTC3 RTR)

[fastharry]

Originally posted by frank13
i hate to do this to you just but selling or promoting products from ebay ,, or as a business, is not permitted in this forum.


frank13
moderator

and this is adressed to who??????

[frank13]

not to be rude, but i think it is obvious.

[fastharry]

not to be rude,but its not obvious to me...(and I'm not playin' you)....if your talking about the fix,we've been talking about this for awhile...3 pages back they were taling about GPM balls and arms for the tc3..avail on Ebay...so I'm not following teh point..

[mckrooz]

Wow, this thing is top notch! Everything went together perfect. The ONLY thing I didn't like was the crappy hex wrench they give you to screw 100 screws. My fingers are sore:mad: I replaced the screws for the radio tray with philips head screws to make it easy to take on/off. Didn't get to break in yet (OS CV-R) because I'm still waiting to get a starter box. We'll see...

[fastharry]

do yourself a favor and pick up a set of good hex wrenches..

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by frank13
not to be rude, but i think it is obvious.

But I think you are addressing to the wrong direction......every 10 threads there will be someone want to ask the fellow NTC3 racers and find out what radio, engine, tires or aftermarket parts/ pipe to use on NTC3.......I don't think they will give me the asnwer like the following....

"ah, yeah, some .12 engine with rear exhaust..."

"ah, some radio with 2 channels and a receiver..."

"ah, some pipe that fit NTC3...."

My point is, we are trying to GIVE the best opinion from our experience.....I will name Sirio, MT-12, OS-TR....etc for Engine, and AE dual chamber pipe for NTC3, stay away from GPM, some GH products are OK.............etc. We have to NAME the products, and on the other hand, we MUST provide our best advise to prove that the product is the best fit for NTC3.....that is consider promoting too.

"THE FIX" was a long issue on the NTC3 thread, some ppl think $25 is way overpriced, but some ppl said that is the best buy.......For me, I think that is one of the MUST HAVE item and best deal product for the NTC3, and we just have several racers here tried it and STRONGLY recommand others to use it, not because it is $25 or looks good, but simply "because IT WORKS"......

Also, where else you can find the alternative....? Like me, I tried to save me $25 and did a $3.80 "the cheap fix"..........but the concept is far from "the fix", my setup is NOT impact prove, and I can only tell when my NTC3 crash to the wall or something, but if I didn't do the cheap fix at the beginning, I am sure I've already got a pair of "THE FIX" on my NTC3 now.....

[frank13]

i believe he knows who i am talking to- no its, not you fastharry ,,,an di understand you have all been talking about the so called fix, but people are NOT allowed to promote thier products in the forums,



thanks
frank13
rcca moderator

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by frank13
i believe he knows who i am talking to- no its, not you fastharry ,,,an di understand you have all been talking about the so called fix, but people are NOT allowed to promote thier products in the forums,



thanks
frank13
rcca moderator

Ok, now I understood what you are trying to say......

[frank13]

thats not what i mean , it is fine to ask and recommend products , but it is not OK to promote products you are the manufactorer of. or advertise them for sale. Not my rules , but my rules to promote.

so no it is not ok for jreeves to promote his products on this forum , as it is not ok for hpi, associated or trinity to do it ,

thanks
frank

[JREEVES]

Sorry Frank, didn't mean to break the rules here... I'll shutup now.

[fastharry]

if those are the rules,thats teh deal....But jims been a registered poster since 2001....and has never had a problem that I'm aware of....and now he's verboten..


the reasomn this bothers me is this...

in the new products forum,under the "HPI intro's the PRO 4 and r 40" thread',when kent Clausen came on to defend his company aginst critisism,HE didn't get the boot..or a public warning...but he was allowed to belittle me(and others) on the forum for stating a public opinion..and a true one at that.....

that to me is a double standard...so if Jim can't speak...make sure no other MFG's can't either......

[GTAffiliate]

Hey Guys,
I am a little confused about the setup of the front and rear diff's on the NTC3.

In the associated manual it says to loosen the front diff and tighten the rear diff for more steering.

I have been chasing more steering, and the only way i have found is to tighten the front diff and loosen the rear- the opposite of what associated are saying.

Has associated got it wrong in the manual? Or am i going crazy.

I am now running the front at 1/4 turn out and the rear at 1/2 turn out and there is much more steering.

Let me know what you think.

[Distro]

Jus tto let you guys know i sent barry flying on the third round ofqualifying.thought i as movin out of the way (which i'm not ever doing again btw) but i blocked him and he drove over the top of me and cartwheeled off the track. He came back on and went even faster... He didn't undertsand why i moved right. Oh well. Then before the race i adjusted my diffs for some more steering, which was too much causing my car to traction roll on the 2 sweepers. So i took them slow, but i was still shredding body clicps when i went in too fast.. not the best day. Or mabye the traction roll was from this hugely blown front ball bearing..

[us_matrix]

Hi,

Has anyone of you tried the new NTC3 Fuel tank? Any comments on this new tank? Is it worth to replace the stock tank?
I am still using the stock fuel tank but there is a lot of bubble when is in idle, but other than that car run fine.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=7719&FVPROFIL=++

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I am just rebuilding the front and rear ball diff. I set it based on the manual said for front diff, make 1/4 turn from close postion, but i feel very tight at that point. Do you guys just make 1/4 turn for front diff or turn more? I am afraid if i do it based on manual said, it will just like running no diff.
What about rear diff? Do u guys make looser than front?

Thanks in advance

[Distro]

the diff will loosen up when the grease starts to get flung out. 1/4th out for the front and 1/2-3/4ths out in the rear is normal.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by GP40X
No, but I can describe it to you in great detail. While having a REAL BAD day at the track (See below) I hit the board hard in the main & thought I had just broken a pivot ball cap since I could still drive the car. When I got back to my pit after the main, I found the shock tower ripped out of the diff case & was only held on by the right side screw. The left screw hole & the center screw hole in the diff case were broken out & the center screw was missing (somewhere in the track). When I pulled it apart yesterday, I found out the right screw was bent & I bounced off the boards so many times, I bent both front lower pivot balls. BTW, the RTR outdrives are definitely tough. I bet I het the boards about 20 times that day & didn't bend any outdrive shafts.

The car is all better now ($14.00 in parts & some elbow grease later). I also added the half inch 4-40 screws to the center and gear side of both cases to help hold it until I can pick up a couple of sets of "The Fix."

To give you an idea of my first race day in 12 years & my first day of Nitro racing ever, I couldn't get it to handle in practice (pushing on power, loose off power) because I couldn't keep the engine running and never got the engine tuned quite right or the car adjusted to handle. The "C" alkaline glow plug igniter had an intermittant open circuit & I still had the engine too rich & it was flodding. The battery for the new starter box died so I had to use the battery from the 1:1 car. I didn't start the first heat due to a tap on the board while warming up & one of the alkaline batteries moved in the holder shutting down the radio. I got that fixed & was able to get 4 laps in before the end if the heat. In the second heat, the engine was still too rich & the engine flamed out after a full throttle blast down the back straight. It loaded up on the sweeper & when I nailed it again, flame out (still pushing but not as bad thanks to the help of the other racers there). After some more help from Brian (he loaned me a good glow plug igniter & helped me get the car straightened out) I started warming up for the main & was glad the car is finally turning now. I had also leaned out the top end needle by 1/8th turn & the low speed needle by 1/4 turn. About two minutes into the main, I overshot a turn & hit the pit wall board so hard the engine came loose & I lost gear mesh. Chris, the guy helping me pit for the main got the engine readjusted & I was able to continue the race. With about three minutes to go I had a brain fade & hit the same board in the same plave again hard enough to break the diff case. I did finish the race since the car was still running & I was able to limp it around the track. Somehow after all the trouble I had that day, I still managed to pull off a third place finish (Novice Nitro Main 8 cars started & six finished including my broke NTC3 RTR). That made the whole day seem much better.

Bill (NTC3 RTR)

Shows how strong the NTC3 really is.......
wheres everyone who changed from a NTC3 to a MTX3 cos the MTX is more durable and doesnt break like the NTC3.....:cool:

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Shows how strong the NTC3 really is.......
wheres everyone who changed from a NTC3 to a MTX3 cos the MTX is more durable and doesnt break like the NTC3.....:cool:
I don't know about MTX3, but my Serpent Impulse, almost break a steering knuckles once every 1-2 races, sometimes just a small tap, it will break.........

There are not perfect car, and no durable car....if there are no such car to race, I rather pick a FASTER car........

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Shows how strong the NTC3 really is.......
wheres everyone who changed from a NTC3 to a MTX3 cos the MTX is more durable and doesnt break like the NTC3.....:cool:
I don't know about MTX3, but my Serpent Impulse, almost break a steering knuckle once every 1-2 races, sometimes just a small tap, it will break.........

There are not perfect car, and no durable car....if there are no such car to race, I rather pick a FASTER car........

[tallyrc]

get the new tank. end of story.

jreeves or anyone else down there. how often do you guys run down there at speedline?

[Distro]

friday nights and sundays at speedline.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Distro
friday nights and sundays at speedline.

Whats/Wheres Speedline???

[Distro]

Largo florida.

[Yokomo_King]

Ok you know the NTC3 is a damn good car for a great price. I have Abused my NTC3 its true. If anyone goes to crystal and knows the tires at the end of the Straight away i hit it like 3-4 times when im there **** i never broke a part hiting it all that happend was my paint chiped and my engine or Speed Is not slow. all i broke was a Bulkhead cap that was a Full throttle down the Straight and i hit my Friend he spun out. These are the things i broke since i had this car from July of 2002. Front bulk head cap and bent a pillow ball and a few bumpers but thats it. if you want to spend your money on the MTX-3 or Serpent Good way to spend money if you have the money in the first place. I dont know how you people Say NTC3 Breaks AlOt :confused: but hell i aint changing Companys for any reason the NTC3 is the new generation of nitro we wont have Belt it will be a thing of the pass

[fastharry]

I never understood that one either..we race on a 150 x75 ft fire hose race course...with a LONG sweeping strait,and LONG sweeper,and through the infield.....we race Impulse's and nitro tc3's..and just about everone has a 5 port RB turbo in their car of choice......in over 2 gallons of HARD racing last year,I never broke a part..only 1 tank got cracked..and that was from a T bone hit fron an impulse.....

those Mugen owners make me laugh.......they complain that teh tc3 is weak....Go read the MTX 3 forum.....belts,brakes,parts...and everone is modifiying teh cars to make them better.....

[Distro]

I find myself taking out 4 pivot balls per weekend right now.. (in the front) but that is about all that goes, a shocktower every now and then but that is rather rare. But i race on a pvc pipe'ed track with a wood outside wall.

[xardjetx]

hello fellow ntc3 owners. i wanted to know what pipe do you guys suggest for my ntc3 with OS 12tr in it?

[Distro]

Once the stock pipe breaks you should upgrade to the dual chamber pope. Not really worth it to upgrade to the dual chamber pipe off the bat unless you want the small edge it offers.

[Yokomo_King]

My NTC3 is BONE stock i dont buy any hop ups for it. Im going to buy Blade type sway of course.all i bought for the car is Gears.THe Stock Pipes are nice i tryed a diffrent pipe for the side exhaust and it was good for tight tracks but crystal is not a tight track. I was thinking of hope ups but then:rolleyes: why should I. Im happy with the performance of the NTC3 i just Cant wait for the FTNTC3:D

[SimonFDR]

Whos the Best Engine Modifier As of now?

[brncat1]

OK I am setting up my car like this but am confused on two of the parts the ones with the ? besides them would be the ones i would need part numbers for. I will be getting these parts from tower.

Front:
shocks 60 wt - ok
#3 piston - ok
springs yellow - ok
sway bar blade type 60 degrees - ok
2 degrees neg camber - ok
0 degrees toe - ok
tires 45 shore 26mm - ok
9 degree caster - ok
4mm droop - ok
5.5mm ride heigth - ok

Rear
shocks 40 wt - ok
#3 piston - ok
springs red - ok
sway bar wire type - ok
3 degrees neg camber - ok
2 degrees to in - ok
tires 40 shore 30mm - ok
4mm droop - ok
5.5mm ride heigth - ok

Both diffs set up like manual

Lightweight clutch bell - ok
lightweight 2 speed - ?
lightweight first speed housing - ?

[Distro]

Here is a helpful tip for you guys, since the geometry on this car is pretty much the same from front and rear use the same shock settings on all four corners. It will greatly increase how stable the car is. The light weight housings will silightly decrese the drag on the drivetrain but not by much.

[GP40X]

Shows how strong the NTC3 really is.......
wheres everyone who changed from a NTC3 to a MTX3 cos the MTX is more durable and doesnt break like the NTC3.....

NTC3Fan,

I think what makes the cars fragile are the guys installing all the "Factory Team" & "Bling-Bling" parts on them trying to go faster & blaming the equipment instead of their driving skills. The Associated carbon fiber Factory Team parts are really meant for the way above average driver that can "Keep it off the boards." While these parts are lighter & more rigid, they aren't necessarily stronger. I've seen several guys break "Factory Team" hub carriers on an NTC3 after 1 good hard hit on a board. Most of them were replacing them with more "Factory Team" carbon fiber hub carriers. The regular Team parts & the RTR parts seem to have a little more give & take a lot more punishment. For those of you who can drive a near perfect race, get the team parts, it will shave a few seconds off the lap times but for drivers like me who are getting starter or just starting again, I'll leave the hardcore parts to the big boys for awhile.

Bill (NTC3 RTR)

[brncat1]

are there any on-road tracks that are open year round in dallas,tx

[need4speed4]

Hey, I was wondering what screws you guys are using on your NTC3's. (the blue ones) Are they aluminum? In the Associated Insiders Newsletter, it says that because they are not strong enough, never use aluminum screws on the chassis.

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
Whos the Best Engine Modifier As of now?

There is no one best motor guy out there, but here is a list of the top guys around:
Smeltz
DWR
Murnan
Carlsen
Richey

There are probably others, but those are the ones that I know of.

[nitrohead3000]

Originally posted by GP40X
NTC3Fan,

I think what makes the cars fragile are the guys installing all the "Factory Team" & "Bling-Bling" parts on them trying to go faster & blaming the equipment instead of their driving skills. The Associated carbon fiber Factory Team parts are really meant for the way above average driver that can "Keep it off the boards." While these parts are lighter & more rigid, they aren't necessarily stronger. I've seen several guys break "Factory Team" hub carriers on an NTC3 after 1 good hard hit on a board. Most of them were replacing them with more "Factory Team" carbon fiber hub carriers. The regular Team parts & the RTR parts seem to have a little more give & take a lot more punishment. For those of you who can drive a near perfect race, get the team parts, it will shave a few seconds off the lap times but for drivers like me who are getting starter or just starting again, I'll leave the hardcore parts to the big boys for awhile.

Bill (NTC3 RTR) I agree with you 100 % light is usually faster, you might lose a little durabilty but you get a better handling faster car. Serpents are heavier a little bit more durable but not indestrucable like it's hyped to be. YOU wanna win races avoid hitting the wall.

[Distro]

Just to let you guys know some of you are getting the carbon fiber and carbon composite confused. Carbon fibre is an expoy and carbon based material. It is layered with expoy and carbon strands and compressed. This is what the option radio plate deck is madeout of. The hub carriers and the other factory team plastic parts are carbon composite. They are more ridged and lighter, but will not bend, instead they just break.

[cbr74]

Hey, I was wondering what screws you guys are using on your NTC3's. (the blue ones) Are they aluminum? In the Associated Insiders Newsletter, it says that because they are not strong enough, never use aluminum screws on the chassis

The blue screws I use are aluminum, but I only use them in non-structurally significant areas to save weight.

[NTC3Fan]

i think hitec servos are the ntc3 of the servo world when they work they are great but mess up and they are destroyed

ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!

pfffft can only be a MTX3 owner........
i cant question his judgement cos i'm a noob to nitro - this is my first Nitro car and my NTC3 has only run 2m ( pushed it to make a joke with my dad)
but he's a veteran with 12Yrs experience.... so i cant question his judgement at all....

evens i'm new but that statement reads a 12.4 on my bullshitemeter...:D :D

[Distro]

Myself, i wouldn't use another hitec servo. They are great when they are working but die at the worst time possible. They may have a great warrenty but you will be lucky to get it to that period..

[Yokomo_King]

Hi Tech servos are crap to me, I have the 625MG hi torque for my Throttle and its broke second time. The way that Hitec makes the money is basically you send it back ahaha oyu pay the shipping cost 2-3weeks later its back and ready to break again. I Trust Futabababababa haha and Airtronic. havent tried any servos beside them .but futabababa they last for a long while. well anyways i have to go to the hobby shop and pick up some stuff hopefully it would pass my $20 limit hahhaha:p :p

[Canada]

hey guys i need some help. Does the screw that hold the servo horns on have to be the same as the stock one. I am sure you can tell by now that I lost one :rolleyes: and am wondering if I could find one or have to buy a certain type. Is where you screw it in plastic and if it is could'nt I just use another small screw without a problem. Thanks in advance :D

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by Canada
hey guys i need some help. Does the screw that hold the servo horns on have to be the same as the stock one. I am sure you can tell by now that I lost one :rolleyes: and am wondering if I could find one or have to buy a certain type. Is where you screw it in plastic and if it is could'nt I just use another small screw without a problem. Thanks in advance :D

No they do not. But the same length would be good :rolleyes:

[brncat1]

What battery pack is everyone using in their ntc3.
I noticed in alot of the pics is a trinity type but what is the model number?

[brncat1]

What battery pack is everyone using in their ntc3.
I noticed in alot of the pics is a trinity type but what is the model number?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by brncat1
What battery pack is everyone using in their ntc3.
I noticed in alot of the pics is a trinity type but what is the model number?


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG16&P=7

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by TAW
Hey PRO3/NMT105, you need to take the head off that Sirio and turn it 90 degrees. If you look from the front to the back of the car right now you will see that no air can pass through the head. This will make the motor run hotter. a little late, but I didnt rotate it because I was told on this forum that you didnt need to, I actually thought you had too but I was holding off because of what that guy said. Im definitly going to rotate it though, although I really dont wanna take the head off my new engine because im afraid of srtipping the head screws(did that on my cv-r), but I will.

[brncat1]

What type charger for that pack i have a one hour ratshack charger will that work i use it for my 7.2 and 9.6 packs

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Yokomo_King
Hi Tech servos are crap to me, I have the 625MG hi torque for my Throttle and its broke second time. The way that Hitec makes the money is basically you send it back ahaha oyu pay the shipping cost 2-3weeks later its back and ready to break again. I Trust Futabababababa haha and Airtronic. havent tried any servos beside them .but futabababa they last for a long while. well anyways i have to go to the hobby shop and pick up some stuff hopefully it would pass my $20 limit hahhaha:p :p
I think Hitec makes great budget servos and the warrenty is great, I have a 645 mg in my gt and I blew the motor I sent it in and with in 4 days of them recieveing it I had it back with no charge for the new motor or shipping (except for to them).

I'm probably gonna get the fix and I know the guy who makes them mentioned that they will make them anodized blue, any word on when these will be available? I would just get the regular but I like eyecandy. I also noticed that Ntc3fan's fix looks diffrent than all the others ive seen It has hex shaped heads rather than the round flat heads, has the design been changed?

[waileun]

Originally posted by GP40X
NTC3Fan,

I think what makes the cars fragile are the guys installing all the "Factory Team" & "Bling-Bling" parts on them trying to go faster & blaming the equipment instead of their driving skills. The Associated carbon fiber Factory Team parts are really meant for the way above average driver that can "Keep it off the boards." While these parts are lighter & more rigid, they aren't necessarily stronger. I've seen several guys break "Factory Team" hub carriers on an NTC3 after 1 good hard hit on a board. Most of them were replacing them with more "Factory Team" carbon fiber hub carriers. The regular Team parts & the RTR parts seem to have a little more give & take a lot more punishment. For those of you who can drive a near perfect race, get the team parts, it will shave a few seconds off the lap times but for drivers like me who are getting starter or just starting again, I'll leave the hardcore parts to the big boys for awhile.

Bill (NTC3 RTR)

Hi ,

I thought I would just give my two cents on the parts of NTC3. To be honest, I am a really bad RC car driver. I bang my NTC3 basically everywhere on the track. That much banging so much so that even the guys who tried to teach me how to drive gave up on me. But the NTC3 never give up on me. The only time when I actually broke something is when my car slided and hit the sharp corner of the board at full speed. WIth the sharp corner hitting the arms, anything will break.
I am very surprise that the Composite material on the NTC3 that look so much like cheap plastic can withstand so much abuse from me.
If things break on my NTC3, I will not blame it for the material it was made of, but I would rather keep very quiet and re-examine my own driving skills. Unless, I have been a decently safe RC driver and never bang the car before, then if things break and fall apart , I will jump too.

Hey, to be fair, can I blame the 1:1 car manufacturer for making a car out of cheap material when I drive the 100k Car straight into the wall? hmm...... ?

[brncat1]

Are ops engines any good I wanna replace my stock one with one.

[Distro]

Originally posted by brncat1
Are ops engines any good I wanna replace my stock one with one.

In short, no. Your better off saving up for a good engine.

[Twist 2 Go]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi ,

If things break on my NTC3, I will not blame it for the material it was made of, but I would rather keep very quiet and re-examine my own driving skills. Unless, I have been a decently safe RC driver and never bang the car before, then if things break and fall apart , I will jump too.

Hey, to be fair, can I blame the 1:1 car manufacturer for making a car out of cheap material when I drive the 100k Car straight into the wall? hmm...... ?

Well said!I agree completely, I think that people should really step back and examine the ROOT cause of the component failure. As for the 1:1 cars, remember that FORD= Forgive Our Retarded Designers (p.s. I do work for them!)

[waileun]

Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
Well said!I agree completely, I think that people should really step back and examine the ROOT cause of the component failure. As for the 1:1 cars, remember that FORD= Forgive Our Retarded Designers (p.s. I do work for them!)

Ha..ha.. this thing about "FORD" is a new one.

PS: but I love the Mustang.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
I think Hitec makes great budget servos and the warrenty is great, I have a 645 mg in my gt and I blew the motor I sent it in and with in 4 days of them recieveing it I had it back with no charge for the new motor or shipping (except for to them).

I'm probably gonna get the fix and I know the guy who makes them mentioned that they will make them anodized blue, any word on when these will be available? I would just get the regular but I like eyecandy. I also noticed that Ntc3fan's fix looks diffrent than all the others ive seen It has hex shaped heads rather than the round flat heads, has the design been changed?




the new fix's will be hex heads........the blue one should be ready shortly....

[waileun]

Originally posted by need4speed4
Hey, I was wondering what screws you guys are using on your NTC3's. (the blue ones) Are they aluminum? In the Associated Insiders Newsletter, it says that because they are not strong enough, never use aluminum screws on the chassis.

Yes, Alu screws are just nor strong enough for engine mount. Even if they manage to hold your engine, you will have a tough time removing it after a few run. Did they also mention not to put locktide there?

[Distro]

1 don't use loctite to secure engine screws... Make sure all the metal to metal contact areas are free of dirt and cross tighten the screws. When you do this none of the screws should loosen up at all.

[us_matrix]

Speaking of engine mounting screws... I just stripped the engine mounting screw, Now i can't remove the engine mount.... Do you guys have any idea of how to remove the stripped screw from the engine mount???

[PeTroL420]

Remove the other screw from the bottom. Don't use the Allen wrenches that came with the kit. I bought some Craftsmen Allen wrenches which are very strong and have a lifetime warranty. I think they're only like 3 bucks for 2 different sizes. Anyways, after you remove the other engine mount screw, remove the screws from the top where the engine is attached to the engine mounts. With the engine removed, you should just be able to twist the engine mount a little so then you could use the Allen wrench to twist off the stripped screw.

[us_matrix]

I used GOOD Hex driver when i tried to remove that screw from the bottom but still stripped. I have no way to remove that stripped screw even w/ a GOOD hex driver....

[Distro]

Take a rotery tool and a cut off disc and cut a groove in it and unscrew it with a flat bladed screwdriver. Or use some vice grips and grab the screw that way.

[GP40X]

What battery pack is everyone using in their ntc3.
I noticed in alot of the pics is a trinity type but what is the model number?
brncat1

Here is the one I am waiting for. New Rx Battery from Associated. Found out in the March 3rd newsletter.

Quote from Associated:

"#614, Ni-MH 5 Cell Receiver Battery Pack, 1100MaH, flat, $24.99"

Ni-MH 5 Cell Receiver Battery Pack, 1100MaH, flat. Recommended for the NTC3 and similar applications.

My LHS said they have them on order but they weren't in yet.

Here's a photo:

[tOrcHed Lh]

this one's only $15:
http://www.racerhobbies.com/rxpacks.shtml

[brncat1]

check this one out from ebay comes with charger if you use buy now option just search for auction number 3122437350

[mugenracer123]

Originally posted by tOrcHed Lh
this one's only $15:
http://www.racerhobbies.com/rxpacks.shtml

yes but that one is onlt 1000MaH the AE one is 1100MaH witch means that it will have more power

[NTC3NUT]

I remember an old timer at our electric indoor track telling me that an extra 150mah (reciever pack for my 12 scale car) was worth an extra 30 seconds of run time. That's alot for an 8 min. race, but it's very little for a 15 min.-1 hr. nitro race. The extra 100mah will not keep you from reducing your charging intervals. If it's alot cheeper buy the lower mah pack. Look at the poor MTX-3 guys, the max they can get right now for their rides is 730mah.

[nitro#1]

Hey wussup, i got a question on the steering, its kinda got alot of play. if you hold one wheel and move the other wheel theres some slop. any ideas on how to fix this.

thanx in advance
nitro#1

[Rookie Solara]

2/3A 1100mah batteries for receiver (http://www.batteryspace.com/product.asp?3=84)

Go there and make your own receiver pack.......I garantee all those TRINTIY, REEDY or whoever brand batteries are exactly the same underneath as the one above........made in china stuff. They are not going to give you PRO-MATCH Sanyo batteries like 12th scale cars.....

16 pieces of 2/3A 1100 mah with TABS for $25 (including shipping) and you can make 2 pack so you can race 8 hours endurance race NON-STOP.

You can use your old receiver pakc's plug, soldering is a no brainer, so they are like free.........then you can sell 1 to your friend for $25 (then you will have a pack for FREE).

[waileun]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Speaking of engine mounting screws... I just stripped the engine mounting screw, Now i can't remove the engine mount.... Do you guys have any idea of how to remove the stripped screw from the engine mount???

Is it the screws under the chassis or above it?
I did strip the bottom screws before. As I do not have a dremel tool, I remove the engine from the mount and twist the mount counter clockwise to loosen the screws.(lots of 40wd However, that is provided you strip only one screws on each mount. If you strip both screws, then try the dremel tool and slit a slot on it. Then use a flat screw driver to get it out.

Good luck to you.

[us_matrix]

Yes, It works.
I used a dremel tool to make a slot on it and then removed by a Flat screw driver.

Thanks

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by brncat1
check this one out from ebay comes with charger if you use buy now option just search for auction number 3122437350

1000 or 1100 it ain't a thing but a chicken wing. I have that battery pack. Or something like it from the same guy Works great.

[Drive4fun]

What filter is everyone using what do they recommend on getting?

[cbr74]

I run the AE two stage filter and oil the pre-filter with K&N oil.

[tamiyajoe]

hey guys, waddup. as you can see, im new to this thread. im goin to buy the ntc3. (non rtr) just a few Q'S:

the tc3, non rtr, is it a kit?

where is the cheapest kit? (i no tower is 270)

and how is this engine: here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHL3&P=M)

[tamiyajoe]

double post

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
hey guys, waddup. as you can see, im new to this thread. im goin to buy the ntc3. (non rtr) just a few Q'S:

the tc3, non rtr, is it a kit?

where is the cheapest kit? (i no tower is 270)

and how is this engine: here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHL3&P=M)

Non rtr is kit. Also, that engine is .15, try to get a .12 You can do a search on yahoo for STS mt12, thats the immatation of the Mugen MT12, If you have 150 to spend on an engine then get the Mugen Seiki MT12 Slide Carb non turbo.

Kit..... I think you can find it on ebay or even in the buy/trade forums for cheaper.

[Distro]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
hey guys, waddup. as you can see, im new to this thread. im goin to buy the ntc3. (non rtr) just a few Q'S:

the tc3, non rtr, is it a kit?

where is the cheapest kit? (i no tower is 270)

and how is this engine: here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHL3&P=M)

It is in kit form as of all associated race kits. I wouldn't go for that engine, the only OS i would go for is this:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM6&P=M
You will need to get the starterbox for it, but this is the better deal believe me, because within a month you will wish you had bought it. That is if you buy a pull start motor.

[GP40X]

hey guys, waddup. as you can see, im new to this thread. im goin to buy the ntc3. (non rtr) just a few Q'S:

the tc3, non rtr, is it a kit?

where is the cheapest kit? (i no tower is 270)

tamayia joe

If you are going to get an O.S. side exhaust engine, check your LHS (Local Hobby Shop) for the side exhaust kits. Two of the local Hobby Town USA's in the Dallas/Fort Worth area sell the side exhaust kit for $249.00 (that beats the heck out of Tower's price). I would recommend you get a .12 CV-R or .12 CV-RX though instead of the .15 CV-RX if you plan on racing. .12 engines are legal where the .15 engines are not (if your local track follows ROAR, IFMAR, or NORCA rules). HTH

Bill (NTC3 RTR)

[sbmon]

that question a while back i was wondering also
my ntc3 also has some steering slop, the ball cups retainers
are tightened correctly and no i didn't change the steering
servo saver with the gt spring (yet) but the slop that i am
talking about does not bring the servo saver spring into
effect has anyone else noticed this of been able to remedy it

and that os cvrx motor is great but i would definitely recomend
the 12 , i have a cvrx 12 and 15 , and the difference in power
is very very negligable, the good thing about the cvrx is the
pull start (very convenient imo),but you do sacrifice a liitle
grunt in the mid range the tr has , my only complaint about
using a pull start motor on the ntc3 is that the exhaust desingn
is vulnerable, the header is in a place where if you get t-boned
the header is gona bend bad, oh well i think i might try one of
those new o3 fantom engines i saw they now have a rear
exhaust pull start 12 and 15 available, has anyone had any
experiences with fantom mils are they easy to tune like the os
sorry so long winded it's my first post here i had alot to ask
any info greatly appreciated , good day
shawn

[waileun]

Hi All,

I am just curious what are the symptoms of a tweak chassis.
I ask because today I was driving the NTC3 fine till I did a terrible flip. I check the car, nothing was broken. However afterwards, the tail end of the car swing at the slightest throttle. Initially I thought it was my driving skills. But I realised it was the car when even the most proficient driver on the track couldn't drive my car properly.

Could it be the differential or the chassis? Any idea?


Wai Leun

[Rookie Solara]

I think if your chassis is bent/twisted.......your car will PULL to left or right, just cannot drive a straight line......so if your car suddenly losing traction at the tail, I think that is something else....

My feeling is something rubbing/binding at the rear.......to cause the wheel not spinning freely......check every pieces, start with the wheel, bearing, CVS, shocks then ball bearings....

[tallyrc]

check your shock shafts, outdrives for chips, and axles for bends. goodluck. if you can't find it, piece by piece dissassemble the rear end

[nitrojunkee]

anyone else having problems with left turn spin outs? anytime under descent acceleration while turning left, my ntc3 spins out hard. anyone have this problem? care to share fixes? thanks, mark.

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by nitrojunkee
anyone else having problems with left turn spin outs? anytime under descent acceleration while turning left, my ntc3 spins out hard. anyone have this problem? care to share fixes? thanks, mark.

My left turns tighter than the right... =( Dont know what can fix this.

[frank13]

:D

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I think if your chassis is bent/twisted.......your car will PULL to left or right, just cannot drive a straight line......so if your car suddenly losing traction at the tail, I think that is something else....

My feeling is something rubbing/binding at the rear.......to cause the wheel not spinning freely......check every pieces, start with the wheel, bearing, CVS, shocks then ball bearings....

Hi Rookie,

I have gone to the extend of strip out the dif and readjusting it. The setting of the front and back dif are still at the recommended setting. Something that is quite off is the front shock. Something was binding at the front and the ride height was binded at an abnormally low height. One side of the camber was off too.

Somehow when I was removing the front dif, I unbind something and the ride height shot up very high at the front. I put the whole car through the setup board and readjusted everything. After I have set the car, I have managed to run the car straight without the tail swinging at the slightest throttle. Now the car is ok.

Thanks for your help Rookie.

[Canada]

hey guys i have a question :rolleyes: . if I were to make the suspension setup the same for the front and rear how would that handle. I will probably try it once the snow is gone:( but was wondering if you guys tried it and how were the results. Would it be a neutral handling car. Thanks in advance.

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by Canada
hey guys i have a question :rolleyes: . if I were to make the suspension setup the same for the front and rear how would that handle. I will probably try it once the snow is gone:( but was wondering if you guys tried it and how were the results. Would it be a neutral handling car. Thanks in advance.

Well you can have the same springs, but I recommend more weight on the shock oil in the front.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Does anybody use bladders in the shocks on their ntc3? I have alot of trouble filling the shocks so that not alot air gets in and i heard that bladders make it easier to build shocks and not get air in them because the bladder seperates the air from the oil. Do they change performance in anyway?

Thanx

[Distro]

I don't use shock bladders, but i do let the shocks sit 10-15 minutes after i fill them and move the piston back and forth.

[NTC3NUT]

Yokomo makes plastic shock caps with bleeder screws installed in the top. I believe they are $3-4 a pair. Buy them and throw all your AE caps in the trash. They make shock assembly a breeze.

[waileun]

Hi Guys,

I'm just wondering if there is anything on the NTC3 that prevents it from squating too much? The track that I am running on, is way too bumpy. I am using red spring and the chassis keep hitting the track surface, at times(in fact most of the time, it cuts the engine). is it too much if I set a 6.7mm ride height?

[Aluma]

who makes/sells aluminum shock towers for the nitro tc3?

[Distro]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Guys,

I'm just wondering if there is anything on the NTC3 that prevents it from squating too much? The track that I am running on, is way too bumpy. I am using red spring and the chassis keep hitting the track surface, at times(in fact most of the time, it cuts the engine). is it too much if I set a 6.7mm ride height?

Set a higher ride hieght, try 8mm and work your way down. You can mark the bottom of the chassis with a perment marker to see when the chassis starts hitting.

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I was just wondering that did you put any material inside of the body to make it stronger. I tried HPI and Protoform Stratus bodies but they both are so weak (i guess i hit too much).

[Distro]

I use some masking tape to prevent some of the paint getting messed up underneath the body but that is all.

[Yokomo_King]

put shoe goo where the wheel well is on the front. And dont CRASH.

[Pro3/nmt105]

An easy solution to the body problem is to use proline bodys, hpi bodys stink, sure they look nice but they are like half as thin as proline bodies, I know from experience proline podies hold up twice as well.

NTC3NUT you got a site got a website that sells those shock caps, or a part number, some pics would also be great, what exactly do they do are they like progressive piggyback revisors?

thanks

Any way I still want to know how bladders work on the ntc3 and how they affect performance, if they do.

[fastharry]

just out of curiosity,how are all your cars running..esp the rear exhaust guys.....

and problems with the latest generation kits,with the new tanks and all?..


hey ROOKIE,how about you..and ntc3 nut?....

I'm having a HEATED discussion with guys on RC tech who still think the car is flawed(overheating,running problems,etc..even with the new tank)....stop by and give your support...

[number 17]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I forgot who wants to know about the Integy system, here are some of the pictures of the Integy/Hudy on my NTC3, the advantage of Integy (over Hudy) is the aluminum finishes, those numbers are easy to read (compare to the clear plastic), and the wheel lock, it works on STANDARD thread (like NTC3) and Metric (like Kyosho, Serpent, Mugen and Yokomo) BOTH, I don't know how they do it but I am glad that I choose Integy over Hudy (I believed it is like $30 cheaper)

The rest of the pictures are all here.........

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/setup/

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/setup/P0003530.JPG

Hey Rookie
Where did you get the Integy stuff from? Do you have a website link I can't check out?

[penggoy]

Originally posted by number 17
Hey Rookie
Where did you get the Integy stuff from? Do you have a website link I can't check out?
u can buy it here
http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/75.html

or u can check this on ebay
http://**************/ws/*******************************3123748582&category=34063

hope these help

[zerotorc]

Originally posted by fastharry
just out of curiosity,how are all your cars running..esp the rear exhaust guys.....

and problems with the latest generation kits,with the new tanks and all?..


hey ROOKIE,how about you..and ntc3 nut?....

I'm having a HEATED discussion with guys on RC tech who still think the car is flawed(overheating,running problems,etc..even with the new tank)....stop by and give your support...

Hi fastharry, been reading your posts in RC Tech and the "problem". I'm quite new to the hobby and I've experienced the "problem". Almost the same setup - NTC3 with a RE Novarossi S5 and single chambered pipe. The strange thing is, the "problem" comes and goes. I've not changed the tuning radically, but at times, it just would stall for no reason no matter how rich or lean (not too lean, though - smoke still comes out) and at other times, it runs great.

The "normal" temp for my engine is approx. 260F. If the engine stalls, while refueling, I've got to wait awhile for it to cool down. Another strange thing, even if the temp is lower than 260F (water not evaporating fast on the cooling head), I still can't get it started - fuel from the tank goes into carb and gets rejected from the carb. Sometimes you can see it sizzling back. Oh, tank is old style but modded.

I really don't quite know how the car can affect the engine tuning but there's something definitely wrong. At my track NTC3 drivers are switching to RBs - cos the engine seems to perform well with NTC3s.

[fastharry]

why not try the new tank?..BTW,Thanks for your input..

[veesix]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Does anybody use bladders in the shocks on their ntc3? I have alot of trouble filling the shocks so that not alot air gets in and i heard that bladders make it easier to build shocks and not get air in them because the bladder seperates the air from the oil. Do they change performance in anyway?

Thanx

GS Silicone makes shock bladders & o-rings. I haven't tried them on my NTC-3, but I do use them on my Serpent Impact and they work well (they're much stiffer than the Serpent bladders). The only thing is you have to get the amount of shock fluid almost perfect or you will have to much or to little rebound.

[johnnybp7]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
An easy solution to the body problem is to use proline bodys, hpi bodys stink, sure they look nice but they are like half as thin as proline bodies, I know from experience proline podies hold up twice as well.

NTC3NUT you got a site got a website that sells those shock caps, or a part number, some pics would also be great, what exactly do they do are they like progressive piggyback revisors?

thanks

Any way I still want to know how bladders work on the ntc3 and how they affect performance, if they do.

I found some shock caps and bladders on SpeedTech for the NTC3. There made by Yokomo. Here's a link and a picture, it's at the bottom of the page.

http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/174.html

[sbmon]

this problem you are referring to is it the low end
fuel thing, where the pressure line is also affecting the
fuel flow, and have you experienced this same problem with
other motors, specifically the os tr cause i was contemplating
getting that mill
also i have a question concerning the use of setup stations
(that integy one above looks sweet) my question is for
the people with the stations, if you were to set your car
up with just the basic tools provided by associated , how
close to correct is your set up when you then place the
car on the set up station, how close are your camber, toe in
settings specifically
any information is greatly appreciated
thankyou

[waileun]

Hi Guys,

I'm just thinking, if I ever put my NTC3 on a very smooth and very slippery surface , if I give it a very hard throttle, will the wheel spin at the same rate? Since it is a four wheel drive, power should be distributed to the four wheels evenly.
I suppose that have to do with the diff.
If the back wheel is spinning more than the front wheel, does that mean that the rear diff is harder than the front?
Should we ever need to adjust the car and achieve equal spinning on the four wheels?

Wai Leun

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Guys,

I'm just thinking, if I ever put my NTC3 on a very smooth and very slippery surface , if I give it a very hard throttle, will the wheel spin at the same rate? Since it is a four wheel drive, power should be distributed to the four wheels evenly.
I suppose that have to do with the diff.
If the back wheel is spinning more than the front wheel, does that mean that the rear diff is harder than the front?
Should we ever need to adjust the car and achieve equal spinning on the four wheels?

Wai Leun

Correct me if I am wrong, when the car is on the straight, not TURNING, I don't think the diff are fuctioning at that moment, especially when all four wheels are going straight (again, not turning).......and on NTC3, front and rear diff gears (# of tooth)are the same (someone can verify that), so I assume they are equally 50/50 front and rear (left and right) already.

When you are talking about diff. and wheels combination, the only time you can see the differences is when they are turning, then you may see the rear spin MORE then the front (or the other way around, depends on the traction).......about the diff spin faster or not, that is pertaining to the thickness of the grease or in NTC3 case, the tighteness of the ball diff.

[kellhound99]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Guys,

I'm just thinking, if I ever put my NTC3 on a very smooth and very slippery surface , if I give it a very hard throttle, will the wheel spin at the same rate? Since it is a four wheel drive, power should be distributed to the four wheels evenly.
I suppose that have to do with the diff.
If the back wheel is spinning more than the front wheel, does that mean that the rear diff is harder than the front?
Should we ever need to adjust the car and achieve equal spinning on the four wheels?

Wai Leun

I believe it does matter how you set the diffs up. Lets say you set the rear diff up at 1/8th of a turn out and you set the front 3/4 quarters out. When you get on the gas the rear diff will not slip being as tight as it is and the front diff will slip. So your rear tires are spinning on the pavement and the front tires (diff slipping) will not be rotating at the same revolution. Setting the car up like this causes it to run a little loose (more steering) so you will see more tire wear in the rear than in the front.

Off-Road Nitro cars come with a slipper. So instead of putting a huge load on the diff and the gears the spur gear slips and the diffs dont.

To test how tight you have your diff set you need to hold the right hand tire with one hand. engage the break so the drive shaft does not turn or just use something to lock it down and turn the left wheel with your other. Make sure you turn against the the oneway bearing. With the rear set to 1/8th you will notice that the left rear does not spin easily. Do the same test in the front at 3/4 quarters of a turn out and you will not have difficulties turing the left front wheel.

I am sure this was more info than anyone needed to know but I just felt like rambling.

[number 17]

Originally posted by penggoy
u can buy it here
http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/75.html

or u can check this on ebay
http://**************/ws/*******************************3123748582&category=34063

hope these help

Cool thanks penggoy I had the hardest time finding those.

[Pro3/nmt105]

I think even going straight on a slippery surface your diffs will not be giving exactly 50/50 power because one wheel may have more traction that the other causing the diff to give more power to the wheel that had less traction but on a flat pavement surface I think it should be about 50/50 I mean, front wheels and back wheels seperately. I think that If your rear wheels were moving faster that your front wheels on a high traction suface you'd strip out you diff gears, but what would probably happen in most cases is that the diff thats set loosely and can slip will slip so that It can be moving at the same speed as the other diff.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by johnnybp7
I found some shock caps and bladders on SpeedTech for the NTC3. There made by Yokomo. Here's a link and a picture, it's at the bottom of the page.

http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/174.html
Ntc3NUT are these the caps your talking about?

Does anyone know if you have to fill the cap with oil when building shocks? because I think this is what causes my problems. I fill the cap and some of the oil spills out when Im putting it on and diffrent amounts of oil spill out when I do diffrent shocks so the rebound is diffrent and I have to spill some out of some of them which usually causes me to get alot of air in the shocks.

[Canada]

Pro3
Start with the shocks almost filled with all of the bubbles out then fill so there is a buble of oil over the top of the shock. Then put some oil in the shock cap like you said and put it on top of the shock body quickly enough so that it does not all leak out. Some might still come out but that is normal, then tighten the shock cap. Squeeze the shock in and if it won't bottom out you have to much oil in it but if it does not rebound you don't have enough. So go from their once you are done.;)

[number 17]

This is probably a dumb question but I have never seen anyone talk about this. I have an OS .15 cvr in my NTC3 and a friend of mine has a OS .12 cvr. How can you tell the difference from the 2 motors? The only thing that looks different to me is the head the .12 is blue and the .15 is black. If I changed my head to the blue one would anyone be able to tell the difference? Can someone explain this to me.

[tl01boi]

there are to different ways the piston and sleeve on the .15 is bigger than the .12 and the . 15s crank case should be a slight bigger

[number 17]

Originally posted by tl01boi
there are to different ways the piston and sleeve on the .15 is bigger than the .12 and the . 15s crank case should be a slight bigger

But that is only internally, externally it looks the same.

[SimonFDR]

I have a problem. The screw where I adjust the camber, and the one on the bottom are different on front right and front left. I do the track width on the bottom of the left and right arms. Then I adjust both sides to 2 Degree Camber and then the right side is longer than the left but the trackwidth is the same. So basically its the same at the bottom but when I do the camber, it shows up 2 degree for both sides even though oneside is a little out more than the other. I'm really stumped. Could this be bent hinge pins? I'm going to give it a tune up tomorrow.

[waileun]

Originally posted by kellhound99
I believe it does matter how you set the diffs up. Lets say you set the rear diff up at 1/8th of a turn out and you set the front 3/4 quarters out. When you get on the gas the rear diff will not slip being as tight as it is and the front diff will slip. So your rear tires are spinning on the pavement and the front tires (diff slipping) will not be rotating at the same revolution. Setting the car up like this causes it to run a little loose (more steering) so you will see more tire wear in the rear than in the front.

Off-Road Nitro cars come with a slipper. So instead of putting a huge load on the diff and the gears the spur gear slips and the diffs dont.

To test how tight you have your diff set you need to hold the right hand tire with one hand. engage the break so the drive shaft does not turn or just use something to lock it down and turn the left wheel with your other. Make sure you turn against the the oneway bearing. With the rear set to 1/8th you will notice that the left rear does not spin easily. Do the same test in the front at 3/4 quarters of a turn out and you will not have difficulties turing the left front wheel.

I am sure this was more info than anyone needed to know but I just felt like rambling.

HI KellHound99,

you should do more 'rambling'. I learnt more from your message than from the pages of tuning guide from AE. I wrote my original question because I notice my NTC3 behaving like this on a very smooth and slippery cement pathment. The material of the front and rear tyres are of the same material. But the rear tyres are broader than the front tyres. I remember the same thing happening to me years back when I drove the Mustang on a icy road. The mustang rear wheel was spinning rapidly. I believe it was only a two wheel drive. So when I try to relate the incident with the four wheel drives of the NTC3, it seems like the NTC3 is behaving much like a two drive rather than a four wheel drive.
Your explanation of the diff makes sense. and it is true that my rear dif is stiffer than the front. I will readjust and see how it work out.
By the way, are you having winter over your end? Maybe you can try the NTC3 on the icy ground? :)

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by number 17
This is probably a dumb question but I have never seen anyone talk about this. I have an OS .15 cvr in my NTC3 and a friend of mine has a OS .12 cvr. How can you tell the difference from the 2 motors? The only thing that looks different to me is the head the .12 is blue and the .15 is black. If I changed my head to the blue one would anyone be able to tell the difference? Can someone explain this to me.

Both motors are cast "CV" or "CVR" into the side of the case.

[mckrooz]

I also have a 12 CV and just recently got a 12 CV-R that I've yet to break in. Does your friend with the CVR smoke you really bad? I just want to compare these two motors and see how much of a difference .44 HP makes.

[number 17]

Originally posted by mckrooz
I also have a 12 CV and just recently got a 12 CV-R that I've yet to break in. Does your friend with the CVR smoke you really bad? I just want to compare these two motors and see how much of a difference .44 HP makes.

No the .12 does not smoke me actually my car is much faster. For the size track I have been racing on it almost seems like to much power. I will be racing on a bigger track next month but it is a roar track so I will need to get a .12 motor. There are so many choices I can't figure out what to get.

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by number 17
No the .12 does not smoke me actually my car is much faster. For the size track I have been racing on it almost seems like to much power. I will be racing on a bigger track next month but it is a roar track so I will need to get a .12 motor. There are so many choices I can't figure out what to get.

My bad, I read the original post wrong. I thought I read that you had a CV and your buddy had a CV-R.

[Distro]

Since these diffs are ball diffs yes a tighter diff will give you better acceleration and a loose diff will slow your acceleration. If it was a planetary diff you wouldn't lose any acceleration in changing the oil weights inside it (but there are no planetary diffs for this car).

[Iamspeed]

Originally posted by fastharry


I'm having a HEATED discussion with guys on RC tech who still think the car is flawed(overheating,running problems,etc..even with the new tank)....stop by and give your support...

got a link to RC Tech ????

[fastharry]

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=316999#post316999

[tamiyajoe]

im going to get the ntc3, not the RTR. what is a good engine to put in it? i have been lookin at the OS .15 ( idunno those other leters). i was also lookin into the trinity/picco .15. any other suggestions? any other motors i should look into?


THNX ALOT

[Distro]

Get a .12, .15s are just junk, they won't have more power then the .12s. (since they are not big block .15s)

[fastharry]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
im going to get the ntc3, not the RTR. what is a good engine to put in it? i have been lookin at the OS .15 ( idunno those other leters). i was also lookin into the trinity/picco .15. any other suggestions? any other motors i should look into?


THNX ALOT


Joe...is this your first nitro car...and what are your plans with it?...(parking lot play,parking lot racing with yout freinds,club level racing?)...

[Iamspeed]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
im going to get the ntc3, not the RTR. what is a good engine to put in it? i have been lookin at the OS .15 ( idunno those other leters). i was also lookin into the trinity/picco .15. any other suggestions? any other motors i should look into?


THNX ALOT

OS MAX .12 CV-R or CV-RX(pullstart) http://www2.gpmd.com/image/o/osmg2046.jpg

[sbmon]

if your looking at os motors and
don't need a pull start i think most
people would definitely recomend the
os tr. similar hp to cvr but alot more
mid range power/torq

[kellhound99]

Originally posted by waileun
HI KellHound99,

you should do more 'rambling'. I learnt more from your message than from the pages of tuning guide from AE. I wrote my original question because I notice my NTC3 behaving like this on a very smooth and slippery cement pathment. The material of the front and rear tyres are of the same material. But the rear tyres are broader than the front tyres. I remember the same thing happening to me years back when I drove the Mustang on a icy road. The mustang rear wheel was spinning rapidly. I believe it was only a two wheel drive. So when I try to relate the incident with the four wheel drives of the NTC3, it seems like the NTC3 is behaving much like a two drive rather than a four wheel drive.
Your explanation of the diff makes sense. and it is true that my rear dif is stiffer than the front. I will readjust and see how it work out.
By the way, are you having winter over your end? Maybe you can try the NTC3 on the icy ground? :)

We are just breaking free from the cold grip of winter here near our nation’s capitol. It’s been warm just long enough for me to smack a curb or two at a high rate of velocity. Hehe. Needless to say I am awaiting a few ball cup covers from Tower Hobbies.

I sit here waiting for these parts because I have been chasing the handling on this car from day one, but I feel I am on the brink of a new discovery that will revolutionize the way I have been driving this car up till now. I read a post from way back that stated the spring in the servo saver was far less than adequate. Basically my car pushed so bad that I had to tighten the rear end Diff to a point that I could slide the rear end around so I could go through the turn at a reasona