Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v3.0

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Yeah this friday will be the opening ceremony where i start it for the first time and start the "break in procedure"....
the rubber will do for this period... then i'll try to find a place that evens sells foams here :-)

btw.. u guys on foams...
when the foam is finished.. do u throw away the rim... or do u get like just the foam to go around the rim...
if so where do u find it??
i couldnt find it on tower

Cheers

NTC3, You get the foams with the rims. You can PM me. I have many Jaco Nitro Shoes in stock.

[tamiyajoe]

ok, well i was savin up for a tmaxx, but decided against it b/c there are a lot of parkin lots near me.now, for get the rtr, im guna get the team kit (i think its that.) whats a good racing motor w/ side exhaust? i dont want to pay too much, but i want this car to be able to do over 50 (or more...:D )

[xfader]

if you get the kit, go all the way. Get a starter box and a rear exhaust motor. Mugen MT12 is what I have. O.S.'s are good too. People say they are easy to tune. RB is good too. with that setup and a little experience driving, you can hang with any dude with a Mugen or Serpent.

[waileun]

Originally posted by Distro
The one way will give you more steering, but once you hit something on power, you will strip the gears inside the diff.

Two person at my track used the one way, it seem to work fine. They said they gain steering on a track design for serpent.
(sorry, don't understand what they meant by that statment)

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Canada
hey NTC3 fan what bodie is that and where can I find it. sorry if you have posted it before but im lazy:rolleyes:

Racers Choice Lola GTP...
cheapest GTP Body avail on tower for only $15.59

Hers the link to the Racers Choice Body (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSN8&P=7)

[NTC3Fan]

well i got my stuff earlier... and was able to start it.....
couple of probs i have....

the engine is idling very high - have to let go on the throttle to stop the wheels spinning....

the engine cuts out after like 15 seconds....

what else shud i check or what other info do u need?

[xfader]

Well, there are a few reasons why you have high idle. The first thing to do is set your high speed idle needle. Check for a billow of bluish-white smoke at near top speed. If you are running too lean, you will not see the smoke. If you have a temp gun, make sure you are in decent running temp.
After you are satisfied that the high end is slightly on the rich side, then you can adjust the low speed needle. if its still idling high, turn it counter-clockwise at most an hour at a time to richen the mixture. It should drop the idle. Some people check by pinching the fuel line. The car should start to rev up a bit a few seconds after the pinch is on. If the car doesn't, it may be too lean. Again, turn the needle counter-clockwise an hour or so until the desired affect occurs. If it bogs as you try to throttle it, it may be slightly too rich. Close up the needle by turning it clockwise an hour at a time.
If it still runs high at idle, you might need to close the idle speed needle (if you have one). This needle controls the amount that the carb is open at fully closed throttle. Some engine manufacturers say .06mm is about right.

as far as the car dying after 15 secs or so, I think it starts to get too rich when the car sits around and idles too long. Either cut off the engine, or give it a quick burst of throttle to clear out all the unburnt fuel in the carb.

Good luck. Feel free to correct me if I said something wrong or left anything out.

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I have a MT-12 engine and its time to change air filter. Do you guys use K & N filter? Are they good? (I know it looks good but does it really need it?) I could not find the right carb size. Do you know (URL) where i can get the air filter?

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Hi,

I have a MT-12 engine and its time to change air filter. Do you guys use K & N filter? Are they good? (I know it looks good but does it really need it?) I could not find the right carb size. Do you know (URL) where i can get the air filter?

I also wanted one... but u dont get them in South Africa.. :-(

[Canada]

the k&N air filters are no good for rc use. They do look good and I was looking for one too but I found a thread with a rep from that company saying they don't filter small enough for rc scale, so basically it will let dirt into your engine.

Thanks for the info on the body NTC3fan:D

[ALJR]

hey all. this is my first post in the ntc3 area. i bought my car from some one in here at the end of last season, but didn't have a chance to run it yet (i have run the emgine in my nmt)...

any ways, where can i buy k-factory parts on line? i have been to www.speetech.com, but was wondering where else i could buy there stuff. i have also been to www.the-border.com. but i am nervious about ordering out side of the united states..

any sugestions of where/who to order from??

[nhearnest]

What is a good starting point with the OS .12 tr low speed needle? I just put this engine in along with the dynamite header to run the side ae pipe. The engine is not new and has had five break in tanks by previous owner. I am running the low speed flush with the carb body and getting and the high speed a little less than two turns out. I changed plugs. My fuel from late last fall but was stored at room temperature. I engine fired up the first time I put it on the box and ran 5 seconds. I will pick up a new plug and fresh fuel this weekend. The temperature outside was about 74.

[Distro]

Originally posted by waileun
Two person at my track used the one way, it seem to work fine. They said they gain steering on a track design for serpent.
(sorry, don't understand what they meant by that statment)

They mean a high speed track, something without really tight corners.

[Rookie Solara]

If you want something like this.......be prepare to get a new engine as well, I too got the filter so called K&N, but good things I've got the better information later before I break in the engine (my cars are still in winter break now)

According from Nova Rossi, they received about 30 engine problem email regarding the carb/piston/sleeve not working well after about 1/2-1 gallon of fuel thru it......from engine like MT-12 to RS-12 T5 Turbo....however, all of those engines are all USING the so called K&N filter.....and like someone said, the filter is just not FINE enough to filter thru objects like small sand and rock especially for RC use....

On top of that, I personally email K&N and realzied that they DID NOT authorize or engineered nor manufactured this RC use Filter........so I think they will work with their lawyer soon and find out who's behind that.....

Some ppl I talked to use the filter on BUGGY and have no problem with that.....but most of them replace or repair their engine every single season, that explain WHY......

Last......Nova Rossi's respond letter mentioned one very interesting point......if that filter is as good as the real deal, how come you don't see any ROAR IFMAR team driver EVER use that on their car...? They don't like their car go any faster and breath better....? :confused:

I sold mine immediately after the email respond by Nova Rossi.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm03.jpg

[ALJR]

Rookie Solara...
thanks for the info. i have been telling my fellow racers about the K&N filter hype for some time now, but never had any proof.. ill send them to this page from now on :) ohh ya... i have seen those filters at my LHS, but it looks like who ever is packaging them, is also including a foam piece that goes in the center!!

by the way,what else do you have attached to your throttle servo horn? i see you brake, throttle, but it looks like you have a third (of some thing) opposit your brake arm? of am i just seeing thing?

[NTC3Fan]

Okay i've got 2 tanks thru my car... running rich enuff i think cos fuel was spitting out...
what is the next step......
anything i shud look out for?????

i couldnt run it on a track/road cos i need to get new Nicds for my Radio....
which btw what batterys do u guys use in ur Tx...

anyway other than that i sorted out the engine so far...
still learning how o tune :-)

Cheers
Bevan

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by ALJR
Rookie Solara...
thanks for the info. i have been telling my fellow racers about the K&N filter hype for some time now, but never had any proof.. ill send them to this page from now on :) ohh ya... i have seen those filters at my LHS, but it looks like who ever is packaging them, is also including a foam piece that goes in the center!!

by the way,what else do you have attached to your throttle servo horn? i see you brake, throttle, but it looks like you have a third (of some thing) opposit your brake arm? of am i just seeing thing?

its a throttle return spring... so the car doesnt go hit someones poor cat if his radio or whatever malfunctions :-)

[NTC3Fan]

ive seen some ppl use PC PSU's for powering their 12v chargers....
can u use this also for a AE starter box??

[Canada]

rookie how does that spring work in that location as I just made on that goes on the carb to the engine mount. It is not very strong because if it is the carb won't open all of the way. did you try that location:cool:

[Collari-Tc3]

Having a great weekend so far. Lhs has paved their parking lot and will be holding nitro tc races on weekends. What a perfect thing for me because the nearest track besides this new one is a cool 1.5 hours away. Now I can show them whos boss w/ my ntc3. Might be a little small for my Collari 5 port but we'll see. I'm heading to Sprint car races tonight so on the way, I can check it out.:D

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Canada
rookie how does that spring work in that location as I just made on that goes on the carb to the engine mount. It is not very strong because if it is the carb won't open all of the way. did you try that location:cool:

the spring was connected to the silver tabs like in the picture below:
http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003736.JPG

from the aerial mount to the servo horn

[Distro]

You guys should reverse the servo from its stock position, makes breaking smoother and it opens the slide carb better. Thats my tip for now.

[Drive4fun]

What are good glow plugs there are so many available i dont know which too choose for my new ntc3 some suggestions please ~
thx

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Drive4fun
What are good glow plugs there are so many available i dont know which too choose for my new ntc3 some suggestions please ~
thx

I'm using mc59's at the mo...
only ones i can get..

[Canada]

NTC3 fan I have seen your antenna mount before but forget how you made it. Ho wdid you do it as I want to rework mine also. Thanks for the awnsers

[GP40X]

Well guys, somebody has gone & done it. Check out NitroTC3.net (http://www.nitrotc3.net/) . Not much information there yet but it looks like a god start. I'm not connected with the site other than joining last night, just passing along information. I found the link at NitroRC.com

Bill (Nitro TC3 RTR Racer)

[Canada]

what is your name their as I hang out their quite a bit

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Canada
NTC3 fan I have seen your antenna mount before but forget how you made it. Ho wdid you do it as I want to rework mine also. Thanks for the awnsers

no no....
Thats Rookies car............
i sooooo wish that was my car... just cos its so cool....
yeah best person 2 ask whud be himself...

[Drive4fun]

Ok im wondering how fast will my ntc3 rtr go out of the box? what about with some new gearing and a two speed my goal is to reach 50-55 top end.. how can i make it possible if it doesnt reach it?
thx

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Distro
You guys should reverse the servo from its stock position, makes breaking smoother and it opens the slide carb better. Thats my tip for now.

Don't worry Distro...some us got the value of that tip..thanks.;)

[Distro]

Originally posted by Drive4fun
Ok im wondering how fast will my ntc3 rtr go out of the box? what about with some new gearing and a two speed my goal is to reach 50-55 top end.. how can i make it possible if it doesnt reach it?
thx

The car should reach 50+ with proper gearing an an engine producing 1.3hp +

[Drive4fun]

Im tryin to hit 50+ with the rtr engine... is that possible if not then what top speed i can reach with it and how?
Thank you

[Canada]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
no no....
Thats Rookies car............
i sooooo wish that was my car... just cos its so cool....
yeah best person 2 ask whud be himself...

my bad.... Hey rookie what do you think:D

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by fastharry
Don't worry Distro...some us got the value of that tip..thanks.;)

Elighten me some more please............
what do u for this... or any pics?

[GP40X]

what is your name their as I hang out their quite a bit

Canada,

GP40X, same as here & every other board I'm on :D

Bill (Nitro TC3 RTR Racer)

[waileun]

Hi,
Did anyone do a comparison between the dual chamber pipes and the stock pipes(single chamber)?

Isn't the dual chamber of the pipes serve to silent the engine exhaust and in doing so reduces the power of the engine?

If that is true, isn't the single chamber better?

[mugenracer123]

has any one tryed the kawahara cintax clutch? how is it?

[mckrooz]

How do you guys get access to your low end needle? It seems the header is in the way. Did you guys turn the carb so you can get to it? I have an OS CV-R.

[Canada]

I have my carb so the low end needle side of the carb is towards the middle of the car ;)

[xfader]

I freakin hate the screws for the TC3. The 1/16 screws are just way too small for the amount of torque they get. I can't even count how many times I stripped one of those using a wrench. I've given up on maintaining certain things because a stripped screw is still holding it together. Please tell me there is a better solution than those ridiculous screws. Thanks. Venting session is over. :mad:

[Canada]

Do you have a good set of allen drivers, I do and It makes a big difference:D

[Pro3/nmt105]

Get a good set of hex drivers and you will have no problems those cheap L wrenches that come with the kit and just L wrenched in gereral strip the screws. I used the the 5/64 wrench that came with my gt kit to take out the angine mount, and the screw didnt want to move easily so what happened was the L wrench was twisted around three times rather that the screw moving, Ill try to get a pic of it. I used a hex driver after that and it came out right away..,

[tamiyajoe]

wtas a good cheep motor i could get just to get my kit started?? TO SIMPLIFY EVERYTHING, IM GUNNA GET a kit, so i wanted to now about a good cheappy motor. sry bout caps

[fastharry]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
wtas a good cheep motor i could get just to get my kit started?? TO SIMPLIFY EVERYTHING, IM GUNNA GET a kit, so i wanted to now about a good cheappy motor. sry bout caps

pul start or non?

[NTC3Fan]

I Use the Hudy wrenches and have found no problems with any of the hex screws.... evens the tiny ones which keep the pins in the Arms....

[tamiyajoe]

Originally posted by fastharry
pul start or non?

pull start

[Canada]

try a OS .12 CV-X I have that in my car and it runs great

[tamiyajoe]

direct fit rite? why is the (s) one cheeper?

[nhearnest]

If any of you are running the OS .12tr engine what are some good starting settings especially on the low speed needle. I heard 2.5 turns out but that is not flush with the carb body.

[HauntedMyst]

Tamiyajoe,

Take a good look at the Fantom FR12 03 pullstart. It's a great engine and not that expensive at only $130 or so from Stormer. Mine has broken in wonderfully (starts on the first try every time), has good power and great speed. It's definately faster then my OS CV-RX, which has better torque. Either will serve you well.

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by xfader
I freakin hate the screws for the TC3. The 1/16 screws are just way too small for the amount of torque they get. I can't even count how many times I stripped one of those using a wrench. I've given up on maintaining certain things because a stripped screw is still holding it together. Please tell me there is a better solution than those ridiculous screws. Thanks. Venting session is over. :mad:

I think better screws.. I've stripped alot of blue screws, but never a ti screw. Its not the drivers fault all the time either. I have got a very good set and i still strip the cheap screws.

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by nhearnest
If any of you are running the OS .12tr engine what are some good starting settings especially on the low speed needle. I heard 2.5 turns out but that is not flush with the carb body.

I had that engine. It was a good engine. If I have time I can tell you my settings, I run it as lean as possible.

[tamiyajoe]

wat screw set do you guys suggest i buy?i really dont want to strip any screws, so im buyin new hew drivers. but wich screws are gooD? (links)

[Canada]

I wouldn't reccomend hardcore racing srew kit I not sure if they even make them any more but it requires alot of cutting them to size and their is not enough for the whole car. I even broke one screwing it into my radio tray, it is freakin titamnuim:mad: . That preety much pissed me off now since the head has broke right off I can't get the rest out to get another screw in their. So basically they are expensive and I haven't seen the stregnth that titanium should have. It cost me $120 canadian too so I am preety mad. I suggest you buy from elsewhere, but I do agree that the stock screws must go in some areas:rolleyes:

[xfader]

I have hex drivers, and they still strip. And the engine mount screws always get shaved down from race friction. I think its the last draw. I wanted to give the TC3 the best chance I could, but something always breaks, needs adjusting, or just doesn't work and I spend all my time at the track wrenching when all the guys with the Mugens are out turning laps and only having to worry about tire compounds and fuel mixture settings. I think its time to jump ship and get me a MTX-3. Good luck with your cars guys! I enjoyed for the few months I had mine, but now its time to play with the big boys.

[fastharry]

heres a qoute frtom MODELLOR,a guy whose opinion I respect on RC TECH...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Definately the 705. I have just finished building one and I built a MTX3 a few weeks ago and there is no comparison.

The MTX3 was sent back to the distributor without even seeing a track. It didnt even get the engine in it. But I did find out why Mugens are so hard to pass The slop in the rear pivotballs was so bad they must extend out to 210mm in the corners to stop other cars get past

As for the 705. This car is gonna rock. I couldnt find any slop (everything is nice and tight and will require a few runs to free up) and the build quality was perfect. Serpent have really came a long way in 14yrs.

Aggghhh, 14yrs since I last drive a Serpent. Any they call Frank Calandra Snr the 'Flying Fossil'.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Maximum Performance Parts


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I'd say,if you want to back to a belt car,get the Impulse...

with 12 touring cars to my credit(incl 2 tc3's,3 hPI's,a reflex and a Impulse Lola outlaw,not to mention a Super) let me say this...NO CAR is maintence free.....

getting a Mtx 3(esp after reading their forum) is like jumping from the fry pan into the fire....but good luck anyway..

BTW,why do you think they worry about tire compund and fuel mixture?...

[xfader]

I'm not going to get into a debate about which car is better. From my personal experience at the track, the majority of the good drivers are running Mugens. Except for a few Ofna sponsored cats running LD3's, pretty much everyone is running Mugens. Now I'm sure a RC is like a real car. Everyone has their preference. But from what I see, those Mugens take a beating, and they still come back fine. I KNOW if I had the exact same accident, I'd be done for the day with my TC3. I'm not saying that they don't break, but I think their tolerance for impact is a lot better than a TC3's.
I must admit that I haven't seen the new Serpent run, so I can't comment on that. I'm sure its a great car as are most that are at that level. I really believe its driver's preference. But the simple fact is, Mugens run great, and with so many people owning one, parts are a bit easier to come by too when you're in a bind.

As far as the tire comment, I'm going to pass on that cuz if you've never changed your tires to get a better shore compound going, or adjusted your needles on your motor, then you ain't running nitros. EVERYONE does that at the track.

[mckrooz]

Anyone know where I can find these online? Ebay doesn't have them.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by xfader
I'm not going to get into a debate about which car is better. From my personal experience at the track, the majority of the good drivers are running Mugens. Except for a few Ofna sponsored cats running LD3's, pretty much everyone is running Mugens. Now I'm sure a RC is like a real car. Everyone has their preference. But from what I see, those Mugens take a beating, and they still come back fine. I KNOW if I had the exact same accident, I'd be done for the day with my TC3. I'm not saying that they don't break, but I think their tolerance for impact is a lot better than a TC3's.
I must admit that I haven't seen the new Serpent run, so I can't comment on that. I'm sure its a great car as are most that are at that level. I really believe its driver's preference. But the simple fact is, Mugens run great, and with so many people owning one, parts are a bit easier to come by too when you're in a bind.

As far as the tire comment, I'm going to pass on that cuz if you've never changed your tires to get a better shore compound going, or adjusted your needles on your motor, then you ain't running nitros. EVERYONE does that at the track.

Come on xfader... dont diss ur NTC3 just like that.......
maybe its just something ur not doing right......
give it another chance..... and see what happens.....
If u dont want it... i'll take it.... :D :D :D

[nad138]

Originally posted by mckrooz
Anyone know where I can find these online? Ebay doesn't have them.

Not to discourage you on getting one but in my experience with aluminum A-arms, I'm always breaking the pillow ball (be it steel or stock) with the screw still in the arm, though I haven't tried the TI pillow ball yet but I don't like to risk it. Investing in "craftsman screw out" helps taking out stripped or broken screws.

GPM has aluminum A-arms. But I can't remember the site I bought it from.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by ALJR
by the way,what else do you have attached to your throttle servo horn? i see you brake, throttle, but it looks like you have a third (of some thing) opposit your brake arm? of am i just seeing thing?

That is the most expensive and most important piece of hardware on the car (no, not the RS-12 T5)......

Team Losi Throttle reture springs set.....$3.00 and can save my car running away.....:D

Must have item.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by mckrooz
Anyone know where I can find these online? Ebay doesn't have them.

Cannot tell you where to get it, but the question is do you need it.....

However, you might need the universal.....I found that much better then the CVD/CVT crap that came with the car, especially the LONG HOUR 45 minutes main....no need to worry about that stupid set screws came out due to heat.

I have plenty of those for sale.....you can PM me direct.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm02.jpg

[NTC3Fan]

Rookie ur mailbox is full .............. :-)

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Cannot tell you where to get it, but the question is do you need it.....

However, you might need the universal.....I found that much better then the CVD/CVT crap that came with the car, especially the LONG HOUR 45 minutes main....no need to worry about that stupid set screws came out due to heat.

I have plenty of those for sale.....you can PM me direct.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm02.jpg

Rookie you have the cvd's for sale? PM me with prices.

[tmaxx212002]

hey guy, I have a ntc 3 RTR. I put a two speed in it with the stock gearing. I order the O.S. TR (P) Slide carb, and i order a header and pipe for it.. I know i need a starter box too but i am buying parts as i get the money for them.... What do i need to get my ntc 3 up to 60mph or better, I am all about speed hehe.. ok




thank...

[NTC3Fan]

Well....
I was just looking on Tower Hobbies website.. wishing i could buy me another nitro car.... maybe a Super :-) just for size tho... and i came across the Mugan MTX3.....
Yep tower now stocks it... either with the MR12 or without....


Now for the best part:

Mugen 1/10 MTX-3 Nitro Touring Car : $419.99

Mugen 1/10 MTX-3 w/MR12 Touring Car : $649.99

i was like ROTFLMAO!!!!

I hope thats the price for 2 kits haahhahaahhaa
No way i whud spend that amount of cash on that car.. esp since its a belt driven car.....

Heres the link for those of u wanting to laugh about anything :-)

Mugen 1/10 MTX-3 Nitro Touring Car (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWB7&P=7)

Mugen 1/10 MTX-3 w/MR12 Touring Car (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDWB8&P=7)

[SimonFDR]

Yup thats really expensive

[ALJR]

for you guys that have dun this, how do you set up the linkage (for both the throttle and brake)? any one have a pic of how they did theres, it would be greatly appreciated?

[waileun]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
wat screw set do you guys suggest i buy?i really dont want to strip any screws, so im buyin new hew drivers. but wich screws are gooD? (links)
I used Stainless Steel.
Titanium is hard, but I do not know if that makes it brittle too.

[waileun]

Originally posted by xfader
I'm not going to get into a debate about which car is better. From my personal experience at the track, the majority of the good drivers are running Mugens. Except for a few Ofna sponsored cats running LD3's, pretty much everyone is running Mugens. Now I'm sure a RC is like a real car. Everyone has their preference. But from what I see, those Mugens take a beating, and they still come back fine. I KNOW if I had the exact same accident, I'd be done for the day with my TC3. I'm not saying that they don't break, but I think their tolerance for impact is a lot better than a TC3's.
I must admit that I haven't seen the new Serpent run, so I can't comment on that. I'm sure its a great car as are most that are at that level. I really believe its driver's preference. But the simple fact is, Mugens run great, and with so many people owning one, parts are a bit easier to come by too when you're in a bind.

As far as the tire comment, I'm going to pass on that cuz if you've never changed your tires to get a better shore compound going, or adjusted your needles on your motor, then you ain't running nitros. EVERYONE does that at the track.
HI Maybe it is not that most good drivers use Mugen, maybe it is just that the car is easier to handle. I have tried the MTX3 too. Comparing the MTX3 and NTC3, I find that the NTC3 is not for beginner. It is for the accomplished driver. The feeling of NTC3 is like driving a 1:1 manual transmission car that disengage the gear everytime you release the accelerator. For those who has a manual car, they will probably do this(only if they are experience driver). Because they know the car can go a little faster without the 'drag' from the engine.

Corners that need a lot of concentration from a NTC3 driver will be a breeze for MTX driver.

As for whether NTC3 breaks more often than MTX3, there is little doubt that NTC3 is tougher than MTX3. I have yet to go to the track to look for fallen parts. Good thing that NTC3 don't come with dog bone. The parts of MTX3 do look more polish than the NTC3. The NTC3 parts have a rough look and unrefine look.


But honestly speaking, I will get a MTX3 too. Because I'm a beginner and after a few weeks with NTC3, driving the MTX3 will make me look like a pro.
:D

[fastharry]

you think the NTC3 is a tougher car than the Mugen?...why do you say that?..Have you seen the MTX breaking?....also,what does that comment about the dogbones mean?

[waileun]

Originally posted by fastharry
you think the NTC3 is a tougher car than the Mugen?...why do you say that?..Have you seen the MTX breaking?....also,what does that comment about the dogbones mean?

That is based on my observation. I have noticed things coming off the MTX. but that is easily fix by picking up the parts and re-tightening it at the pit. Don't MTX3 uses dogbones? At least over here, the package comes with dogbones. and most of the time I see players looking for dogbones when they have a crash.
Of course if there isn't a crash, the MTX3 will be a very tough car.

:)

[waileun]

Originally posted by waileun
That is based on my observation. I have noticed things coming off the MTX. but that is easily fix by picking up the parts and re-tightening it at the pit. Don't MTX3 uses dogbones? At least over here, the package comes with dogbones. and most of the time I see players looking for dogbones when they have a crash. Again this is easily fix by adding a third party CVD or whatever Universal.

Of course if there isn't a crash, the MTX3 will be a very tough car.

:)

hey Fastharry,

with enough budget, I see that MTX3 will be in my 'garage' soon.
;)

[us_matrix]

Hi Rookie,

Where did you get the Front/Rear body post? How much are they?


Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Cannot tell you where to get it, but the question is do you need it.....

However, you might need the universal.....I found that much better then the CVD/CVT crap that came with the car, especially the LONG HOUR 45 minutes main....no need to worry about that stupid set screws came out due to heat.

I have plenty of those for sale.....you can PM me direct.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm02.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

Rear are stock NTC3 post, front are something I used on my Serpent 12 years ago......I forgot, but I can garantee you will find something similar then that on Towers....just search alum. body post or something similar....

Again, no performance gain, just another eye candy collection of mine......the stock plastic body post works just as great, the alum one just happened to be just perfect for my S60 body without cutting the extra length of the post (I meant if I use the stock one, I have to cut some plastic off.....I hate the look of the extra length of the plastic post)

[Rookie Solara]

I would like to share my opinion........I too jumped the boat from SERPENT to NTC3.........2 reasons, ONE - Serpent parts are hard to get and expensive (Chicago) TWO - car is just simply FASTER (NTC3) then Serpent.......not matter how you tune it, run it, drive it.....NTC3 is clearly a little faster car ALL AROUND.....of course, I am talking about using the same engine, same setting, same tires and same dirver.........

Don't know anything about MTX3, and I am sure it is a GREAT CAR, Mugen took over the 1/8th scale championship from Serpent, that answered all of our question.......and I believed the most recent race between MTX3 and NTC3 with Baker, they are just seconds behind the NTC3.........

But again, they are BEHIND NTC3, for apple to apple, NTC3 is still clearly the fastest TC car on the market (oh, don't forget about the newbie Schmacher .12 Fusion, they are not NEW company, just a new TC but very fast...)

I am not saying NTC3 is the best.....actually, they are FAR from the best.....if I have to do comparison with 705, V1RR and MTX3.....NTC3 will be the last touring car on construction and quality....the plastic/screws combination is absolutely horrible, front/rear diff with shock towers design is so FORD (Forgive our retarded desiger).....the gas tank facing the hot HEADER design, the special tune pipe.....too many reasons that I cannot immagine this car can take the pole................but the truth is, NTC3 does run faster then all the the above, you just cannot denied that, it is the fact. Shaft drive does performs better in this case......and I cannot 100% tell everyone that SHAFT DRIVE is better, because if that so, Serpent will have the new 951 (after 950) in shaft instead of belt.....but apparently, that is not the case.....but I can only tell you what I feel after drivng Belt cars for more then decade (from Kyosho Optima, Hirobo Zerda, to Serpent Impact Impulse....) the PUNCH feeling of the NTC3 is something no belt driven car can provide, period.

I remembered last year in Chicago Hobby show.....I was complainting about the quality of the steering knuckles of the impulse, and Serpent said that the steering knuckles are the #1 replacement parts of the Impulse (right ahead of the front belt) but then he asked how I break the steering knuckles.....I said I hitted the wall.............then he asked me "WHY I HITTED the wall?"

You see, that is the answer......I just can't blame the car anymore, it is not the car, it was ME.....each car has their own weak point, and NTC3 just have more then average of problems then others, BUT, so does 705 and MTX3, they are no bulletproof.....So, if I have to pick only ONE car, I will pick the fastest one, with parts support at almost every hooby shops, and CHEAP on parts, and EASY to tune and adjust...........NTC3 definitely is on the lead.

To be honest, 705 is NO beginner car, no way, I don't know about MTX3, but NTC3 took me only 1 race to fully adjusted......my old Impulse....3 years, I am still trying to push it a little untill I sold her....there is no way Serpent can be tune as easy as NTC3.

That's my opinion and I am more then welcome to accept others to correct anything that it was wrong.

[NTC3Fan]

Excellent Post Rookie......
no arguing with that.....

[SimonFDR]

Hm.

[Canada]

where did you get the body clip on the front posts or how did you make it

[tamiyajoe]

hey guys, will this motor work in the ntc3? it looks good for the price.


HERE (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN6506)

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by Canada
where did you get the body clip on the front posts or how did you make it

Its a long body pin, available at most hobby shops.

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
hey guys, will this motor work in the ntc3? it looks good for the price.


HERE (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN6506)

I believe it fits, but I dont recommend that engine... There are very nice engines for under $150 if you want to save a few bucks.

[tamiyajoe]

what motor do you reccomend? i can barely afford that one, so i need a cheep one. but, i want it to be really nice to, so i dont mind saving up a lil

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
what motor do you reccomend? i can barely afford that one, so i need a cheep one. but, i want it to be really nice to, so i dont mind saving up a lil

Mugen Seiki MT12 is a very good engine.

You can get a similar one its called STS MT12. I heard its about the same.

[tamiyajoe]

SimonFDR, thanks soo much for the quik reply's. but i forgot to mention one thing, it has to be pull start (and cheep of course)

[Canada]

thanks for the reply simon

[SimonFDR]

Canada - you can get it here

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDUR9&P=7

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
SimonFDR, thanks soo much for the quik reply's. but i forgot to mention one thing, it has to be pull start (and cheep of course)

Sorry, I dont associate with lawn mowers.. :D but you should consider a non pull start

[tamiyajoe]

lmao, lolol. any way, rite now i dont have the money to get a starter box so im goin pull start. i will eventually go to non-pull

[jscamry]

Hey all I am looking for a list of bodies and their characteristics. I think that I have seen a list on this forum, but I can't seem to find it now. I plan to start to race and I just wanted to get an inside info on bodies and their handling.

I hope someone can help

THanks Jason

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by jscamry
Hey all I am looking for a list of bodies and their characteristics. I think that I have seen a list on this forum, but I can't seem to find it now. I plan to start to race and I just wanted to get an inside info on bodies and their handling.

I hope someone can help

THanks Jason

I think it depends on which class you want to race in. But if your going to bash around, Lola's tend to give better handling IMO

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
Mugen Seiki MT12 is a very good engine.

You can get a similar one its called STS MT12. I heard its about the same.

I need to say something about STS MT-12.....this is not the first time, STS MT-12 is NOT a bootleg of Mugen MT-12...the STS MT-12 is for OFF ROAD buggy use only......it is not on-road engine. On road engines are RS3 and RS5 for .12......

http://www.teamcrc.com/inventory2003/stsmt12.htm

Besides, I was convinced one point this STS (engine made in Taiwan) are any good.....but after several months of ppl testing the engine, they all said that their engines are not up to standard (compare to OS, RB or NR).....better spend the money on OS if you want something cheap.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by jscamry
Hey all I am looking for a list of bodies and their characteristics. I think that I have seen a list on this forum, but I can't seem to find it now. I plan to start to race and I just wanted to get an inside info on bodies and their handling.

I hope someone can help

THanks Jason

Don't get the LOLA for now, cause NTC3 will not fit the lola unless you mod the front shock tower, then you have to punch 3 big holes for fuel, engine head and filter, you will hate the look of it, but it does get you faster....

I think you just need to pick up a V2.0 or V2.1 PROTOFORM Dodge Stratus....all the team driver (almost all) using that body, especially Team AE, if they use it, that means business.....so try that first.

If your track allow you to run LOLA, then you can try one...after you ran the Stratus first.

The key is....body must be from Protoform, not HPI, otherwise, better get several HPI body cause they are all show and no go (they are thinner and easy to get crack)

[Rookie Solara]

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/fire705.jpg

Picture better then thousand words............if you don't want to see this happen to your NTC3.....double check your wires connection and never let that hang to the ground.

I think NTC3 has one very good features over MTX3,V1RR and 705.....wires are all enclosed.

Check out the rest of the damage pictures here, and don't worry about those chinese word....

705 is HOT action (http://groups.msn.com/RacingCar/forum1.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=2870&LastModified=4675416654837272090)

[xfader]

Hey Rookie,

Great reply. Like I told you before, I respected your posts and I personally learned a lot from them. I have to agree with you on many points, but I do have a few of my own.

1. I will be the first to say that the NTC3 can match up if not beat other TC's on any given day. That being said, the problem I had with them was what you pointed out about the design of the car. When I bought my TC3 I was torn between the Mugen or the TC3. I was a beginner driver and I chose the TC3 because I didn't want to deal with belts, parts were cheap, and readily available. Now after having a few laps under my belt, the problem was with keeping the car in ready-to-run shape. Yes parts are cheap, but I went to the LHS very frequently to stock up on replacement parts. The trips added up. So there goes that argument. I was getting frustrated mostly with all the screw getting stripped. I can understand when plastics break. It comes with the territory, but when I can't replace it because a stripped screw is in my way, that gets very frustrating.

2. I'm not Barry Baker so I'm bound to bounce off a wall or two and I don't have the luxury of being sponsored and having every part imaginable to fix any breaks I may get during a track day. I stocked up on what I thought were suspect pieces to breakage. The problem was every time I had damage, it was a new problem that I didnt have a quick solution for (meaning it wasn't a piece that was in my replacement inventory). So there went my track time. Plus, everyone who had a TC3 at the track got rid of it and went to the Mugen. I'm not saying I want to jump on the bandwagon, but they have a lot more experience than I do and since they weren't running the same car, parts support was at a minimum for TC3's.

3. As far as blaming the car, I never did. The car would have been fine had it not been for me hitting boards, other cars hitting me etc etc. Thats part of the learning curve. I did everything I could to reduce the chances of breakage including getting the Fix, which I highly reccomend by the way. But a friend of mine started at the same time as I did, but he went the way of Mugen. We are at similar driving skill levels but he is a bit more wild (and blind) then me, and I noticed that he had much more track time than I did because his car withstood more impact and remained undamaged, whereas I would have to start wrenching. This guy was nuts too. Frozen throttle finger, never used the brakes, need to pass everyone, bad eyesite, you name it. I was very conservative compared to him.

When it all comes down to it, in the hands of a pro a TC3 can hang with the best of them. But as a guy who just wants to go out to the local track and spin a few laps with his buddies, I feel like the Mugen gives me the best chance to make some errors and not have as much downtime as I did with my NTC3. Yes, no car is bulletproof and it seems like drivers always want to test the limits of their cars to see where the break point is. To me, the break point for a Mugen is higher than a TC3's. And since many other guys are running them, parts will be more available at the track.

But I still love my TC3. I made the mistake of getting a HPI as my first car. (I won't even start with that car!) I think I will continue to run it after a few more mods.

--Mike

[kellhound99]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
The key is....body must be from Protoform, not HPI, otherwise, better get several HPI body cause they are all show and no go (they are thinner and easy to get crack)

Not only that but some of the HPI bodies do not line up with the NTC3. Take the Supra for instance. Coolest looking car out there but... the fuel lid is located just below the engine hood of the car. After you cut your cooling hole in the windshield you will have to cut another just below it to fuel the car. Plus the exhaust pipe does not fit inside the car. It pushes the body out.

But man it looked good

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
http://users.rcn.com/arsa/fire705.jpg

Picture better then thousand words............if you don't want to see this happen to your NTC3.....double check your wires connection and never let that hang to the ground.

I think NTC3 has one very good features over MTX3,V1RR and 705.....wires are all enclosed.

Check out the rest of the damage pictures here, and don't worry about those chinese word....

705 is HOT action (http://groups.msn.com/RacingCar/forum1.msnw?action=get_message&mview=0&ID_Message=2870&LastModified=4675416654837272090)
Hey rookie,

it look as if your car got fried! Was it on fire literally?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by waileun
Hey rookie,

it look as if your car got fried! Was it on fire literally?

Waileun, sounds like you are chinese, go to the site and read the posts, that is not my car (gosh.....lucky me), I can't afford Serpent anymore, and I doubt that I will have that problem.

Yes, the car DOES caught on fire........first, the throttle servo's wires rubbing the ground, and finally snap, and the servo was on WOT position, car is head on to the wall WOT and later cracked the tank in the middle (don't know how that happen) and somehow it spark the fuel and BBQ'ed the 705........

Somone's got his tea on his hand and use the whole bottle to stop the fire since you really don't want to STEP on the car.....but not after like good 2-3 minutes of baking and bbq....

One more thing to know.....besides all the necessary tools that you ahve to have.........always bring a extra bottle of water, you will never know.

What happen if everyone around him were drink BEER or Mai Tai? And what happened someone POUR those extra "LIQUID" onto the originally baking 705...?

That would be FUN to watch.....

Again, that is not my 705, I know better....

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by kellhound99
Not only that but some of the HPI bodies do not line up with the NTC3. Take the Supra for instance. Coolest looking car out there but... the fuel lid is located just below the engine hood of the car. After you cut your cooling hole in the windshield you will have to cut another just below it to fuel the car. Plus the exhaust pipe does not fit inside the car. It pushes the body out.

But man it looked good

I had an HPI Supra.... It fit perfectly, don't know what your talking about.

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Waileun, sounds like you are chinese, go to the site and read the posts, that is not my car (gosh.....lucky me), I can't afford Serpent anymore, and I doubt that I will have that problem.

Yes, the car DOES caught on fire........first, the throttle servo's wires rubbing the ground, and finally snap, and the servo was on WOT position, car is head on to the wall WOT and later cracked the tank in the middle (don't know how that happen) and somehow it spark the fuel and BBQ'ed the 705........

Somone's got his tea on his hand and use the whole bottle to stop the fire since you really don't want to STEP on the car.....but not after like good 2-3 minutes of baking and bbq....

One more thing to know.....besides all the necessary tools that you ahve to have.........always bring a extra bottle of water, you will never know.

What happen if everyone around him were drink BEER or Mai Tai? And what happened someone POUR those extra "LIQUID" onto the originally baking 705...?

That would be FUN to watch.....

Again, that is not my 705, I know better....

Haha, just squirt fuel or nitro clean. =)

Somebody also said something about the lola, Hey my lola fits perfectly. All I had to do was heat the lexan and make it bend around the shock towers.

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Waileun, sounds like you are chinese, go to the site and read the posts, that is not my car (gosh.....lucky me), I can't afford Serpent anymore, and I doubt that I will have that problem.

Yes, the car DOES caught on fire........first, the throttle servo's wires rubbing the ground, and finally snap, and the servo was on WOT position, car is head on to the wall WOT and later cracked the tank in the middle (don't know how that happen) and somehow it spark the fuel and BBQ'ed the 705........

Somone's got his tea on his hand and use the whole bottle to stop the fire since you really don't want to STEP on the car.....but not after like good 2-3 minutes of baking and bbq....

One more thing to know.....besides all the necessary tools that you ahve to have.........always bring a extra bottle of water, you will never know.

What happen if everyone around him were drink BEER or Mai Tai? And what happened someone POUR those extra "LIQUID" onto the originally baking 705...?

That would be FUN to watch.....

Again, that is not my 705, I know better....
Hi Rookie,
your quess is right. I'm Chinese. I was shock when I saw the picture. And I did consider buying a small bottle of fire extinguisher. Not that I'm afraid that my RC car will end up like the Serpent in your picture, but I'm afraid of those guys smoking around me at the pit area when I'm refueling... And most of us know that it is quite common to spill some fuel around the refilling area, and with those burning cigeratte around me, I'm afraid my rc car will end up like the serpent.

I'm sure if someone is drinking the Mao Tai, they will just let the car burn. They will not let a good drink go up in flames... :D

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by waileun

I'm sure if someone is drinking the Mao Tai, they will just let the car burn. They will not let a good drink go up in flames... :D

But Mai Tai with burning 705 = Serpent Celebration = FIREWORKS

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
But Mai Tai with burning 705 = Serpent Celebration = FIREWORKS

Highly priced fireWorks.
By the way Rookie, which third party makes a good replacement chassis. When is it necessary to change the chassis?

[dc92]

Does anyone here know when and if Assocated will release a Factory Team version of the ntc3. What does everyone
think the price will be.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by waileun
Highly priced fireWorks.
By the way Rookie, which third party makes a good replacement chassis. When is it necessary to change the chassis?

To be honest, I stick with AE.....saw plenty of 3rd party chassis are nothing but eye candy.....NTC3 are not like Serpent/MTX or V1RR....flex is not a major issue.....cause hte chassis are so wide and with the carbon radio deck, the whole thing is so regid.

I saw one last night, I believed that is the 7075 from K-Factory, looks pretty good.........also, I heard RD logic are coming out a new one....as well as HSC from HK, but that one is quite expansvie....

[Distro]

Originally posted by dc92
Does anyone here know when and if Assocated will release a Factory Team version of the ntc3. What does everyone
think the price will be.

The FT version is the kit, same as their team drivers use.

[ragamuffin]

After running my Mugen XR Works and a 2.5 T-Maxx all winter the weather here in NorCal is finally shaping up. :p I dragged my NTC-3 out of mothballs and reinstalled the radio system. On another board there was big talk of the rear-exhaust RD Logics pipe, and lo, the LHS just happened to get a shipment in. I can say that fluctuating carb settings are a thing of the past. The car ran the tank bone-dry every time. For now the car is totally outlaw: Kawahara Lola body, foams all around, front one-way and an Ofna/Picco 7-port Turbo. :D Oh, and it handles better with the sway bars removed. Go figure...

One thing I am curious about. I wonder, after all this time, if someone finally came up with a 1/8-scale type rear 'floating' body mount? I saw one someone had hacked from a piece of aluminum stock. Worked well but looked rather naff.

I was considering the Mugen MTX-3 but will capaign the AE this season and see what happens. ;)

[nitrohead3000]

HEY,SHOWTIME How is that 100mile an hour nitro tc3 coming along? Were you able to get the special spur gears made? I have a fusion and I got bored this winter and decided to modify the motor boy you were right when you said the tranny was no adjustable! The fusion starts of in third gear now I am trying to find springs of different strenghts to resolve this.

[NTC3Fan]

Anyone using a Centax clutch on their NTC3??
If so how has it helped ur performance?

[RokleM]

Hey guys, I just brought the NTC3 out of the closet from last fall and was doing some practice lines out front of my place.

I'm having one issue I can't track down. When I hit the gas it shoots straight with no issues, little to no drag break, everything is going well. However, when I let off the gas, it cuts drastically to the left. It doesn't matter if I'm going 15 or 40 mph, it still does it.

Pretty new to this road stuff. I purchased the NTC3 at the end of last season and got a little practice in. It's almost completely stock with a few modifications/additions (OS .12 CV-R, relocated pressure value, 3 shoe clutch, etc). Are there any excellent upgrades you guys are using for racing? I'll be running on a road track (foams only) all summer.

-RokleM

[frank13]

get the rd logics chasis,, its 3 mm think , priced right , at 59 bucks, and is beyond stiff, and its nice looking,, and is already silver so scratching isnt that noticable, and is narrower, so you dont get hung up with too much body rol l

just my 2 cents,

[waileun]

Originally posted by frank13
get the rd logics chasis,, its 3 mm think , priced right , at 59 bucks, and is beyond stiff, and its nice looking,, and is already silver so scratching isnt that noticable, and is narrower, so you dont get hung up with too much body rol l

just my 2 cents,

Thanks Frank13 and Rookie.

I saw the K-factory Chassis, wow, I must say Cool. But I'm not sure if it has the quality of AE chassis. One thing good about the AE chassis is that the side is curved upwards. It kind of provide protection the the battery, receiver and servo. But the K-Factory and RdLogic version is totally flat. Don't know if they provide the rigidity of AE chassis.

[SimonFDR]

Originally posted by waileun
Thanks Frank13 and Rookie.

I saw the K-factory Chassis, wow, I must say Cool. But I'm not sure if it has the quality of AE chassis. One thing good about the AE chassis is that the side is curved upwards. It kind of provide protection the the battery, receiver and servo. But the K-Factory and RdLogic version is totally flat. Don't know if they provide the rigidity of AE chassis.

Are you sure about that?

I have an RD, and it curves up on both sides.

[tamiyajoe]

ok, i really want a ntc3 but i got one more comparison for you.

ntc3 vs. n4-tec pro

imagine everything was the same, motor, wheels, body, springs oils EVERYTHING. wich would be faster? wich would handle better?

[NTC3Fan]

well after running 4 tanks thru my Sirio.....
is there anything i should look out for??

other than that the car runs great.... i'm still running rich as i end up with fuel on the side of my body lol...
but i rather run it rich so long....

[RokleM]

Originally posted by RokleM
Hey guys, I just brought the NTC3 out of the closet from last fall and was doing some practice lines out front of my place.

I'm having one issue I can't track down. When I hit the gas it shoots straight with no issues, little to no drag break, everything is going well. However, when I let off the gas, it cuts drastically to the left. It doesn't matter if I'm going 15 or 40 mph, it still does it.

Pretty new to this road stuff. I purchased the NTC3 at the end of last season and got a little practice in. It's almost completely stock with a few modifications/additions (OS .12 CV-R, relocated pressure value, 3 shoe clutch, etc). Are there any excellent upgrades you guys are using for racing? I'll be running on a road track (foams only) all summer.

-RokleM

Anybody have any ideas? I see a lot of hop-up talk (fell like I'm back reading the Maxx forums), but not a lot of technical talk. I've double checked the diffs, and it still seems to be happening.

-RokleM

[Rookie Solara]

If you pictures yourself inside the NTC3, once the car in idle, it pull to the left, there are several possibility there...

(1) steering is off - do check

(2) Wheels/tires are off - do check

(3) Tires does not have good traction on the road....it can pull to any direction.

(4) if your car ONLY pull left, check ride height, camber, caster droop.....etc, check all those suspension fine setting....

(5) Last....if your car ONLY pull left while braking or idleing...that means the NTC3's RIGHT side (tires) are spinning and the left side are stopping.....just like a military tank or bulldozer usiing left/right conveyer steering system.....check your LEFT side wheel/tires, ball bearings, and item (4)'s everything.....concentrate on the left side of the car...small rock, and any binding items...

I will break the car up into pieces and check piece by piece.

P.S. please tell me you are not running stock steering servo.

[waileun]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
Are you sure about that?

I have an RD, and it curves up on both sides.
Ok, I will go take another look at it to confirm...

[Stelli]

I have a NTC3 rtr and i was thinking of gettin a new engine
ok, so i looked on ebay and i found this engine...Fantom .12 SPS Engine (http://**************/ws/*******************************3126406936&category=34062)
I was wondering if the flyweel and the cluch from my other engine ( the engine that came with the NTC3 RTR) will fit on this new one, or will i need to get a diffent kind.
Wat do you guys think about the fantom engines?, how much will a slide carb conversion kit cost and wat part # is it? What do you think about the price of this engine?. What is the difference with the new model and older model fantom engines? ( i noticed the head is a different colour)... are there any internal differences?

Thanks alot for the help !!!!!
:)

Best regards... Stelli

[frank13]

the rd logics 3 mm 7075 chasis is completely flat,, the 6061 chasis has curved sides,

7075 is stronger and has a lot of machining

[RokleM]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
If you pictures yourself inside the NTC3, once the car in idle, it pull to the left, there are several possibility there...

(1) steering is off - do check

(2) Wheels/tires are off - do check

(3) Tires does not have good traction on the road....it can pull to any direction.

(4) if your car ONLY pull left, check ride height, camber, caster droop.....etc, check all those suspension fine setting....

(5) Last....if your car ONLY pull left while braking or idleing...that means the NTC3's RIGHT side (tires) are spinning and the left side are stopping.....just like a military tank or bulldozer usiing left/right conveyer steering system.....check your LEFT side wheel/tires, ball bearings, and item (4)'s everything.....concentrate on the left side of the car...small rock, and any binding items...

I will break the car up into pieces and check piece by piece.

P.S. please tell me you are not running stock steering servo.

No, I've got a Hitec 625 in there (actually works properly). I purchased the non pull kit.

I noticed today when doing some testing, that the left front tire is wobbling ever so slightly. I did a quick tire swap, and it stayed on the left, so I'm going to tear it down. Not sure if that's causing it, but it's worth a look.

-RokleM

[clgq2]

how long do foam tires last?
an average life span or something?

[mckrooz]

What are these? Are they just a different kind of metal?

[Distro]

Originally posted by clgq2
how long do foam tires last?
an average life span or something?

Minutes wise usually about 60 minutes, on 35's but that depends on the track temp and how much rubber is on the track. They do wear fast, but to get the grip you get with foam tires on rubber tires you would have to use such soft rubber that it would get shredded even faster.. But there are also different hardnesses known as shore rating, 35 is pretty soft, usually 40 is the average.

[waileun]

Originally posted by Stelli
I have a NTC3 rtr and i was thinking of gettin a new engine
ok, so i looked on ebay and i found this engine...Fantom .12 SPS Engine (http://**************/ws/*******************************3126406936&category=34062)
I was wondering if the flyweel and the cluch from my other engine ( the engine that came with the NTC3 RTR) will fit on this new one, or will i need to get a diffent kind.
Wat do you guys think about the fantom engines?, how much will a slide carb conversion kit cost and wat part # is it? What do you think about the price of this engine?. What is the difference with the new model and older model fantom engines? ( i noticed the head is a different colour)... are there any internal differences?

Thanks alot for the help !!!!!
:)

Best regards... Stelli

what about The OS TR?

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by mckrooz
What are these? Are they just a different kind of metal?

They have a titianium coating on them for smoother action and longer life. Unobtainium is just Associateds silly name for them.

As for the Fantom engine, they are very nice. I have the FR .12 03 with the slide carb, rear exhaust and boost chamber. It's the easiest running engine I've every had. From breakin through running it's only ever required a one second tap on the starter box. The thing just seems to make lots of usable power through its RPM range.

[xfader]

I bought an extra "Fix" for a guy at the track, but I think he flaked out. If anyone needs/wants a Fix in Los Angeles, let me know. I can also sell a used for cheaper. The new one is still in its original package. I'll be at Crystal Park Fri-Sun also.

-Mike with the white Subaru WRX at Crystal Park.

[mckrooz]

Is it just one set of the "fix"? How much? I may be out there on Saturday morning. I think I've seen your car. Bronze rims right? I own a blue '00 Civic Si. I'll probably see ya out there.

Marvin

[mckrooz]

Is it just one set of the "fix"? How much? I may be out there on Saturday morning. I think I've seen your car. Bronze rims right? I own a blue '00 Civic Si. I'll probably see ya out there.

Marvin

[tamiyajoe]

wats the "fix"?

[kojak61]

Pic of my newly built NTC3

[Justin Phillips]

What is a good muffler for the TC3? Also what upgrades would you recomend on the RTR version. I already have the two speed conversion, an OS CVR engine with O'donnell race head w/ non-pull mount and flywheel. Is there anything else I should look hard at?

[tallyrc]

ok, it's official. the aluminum cvd's are crap! i ahve now eaten 3 of them. does anybody have a part number for shiny steel ones that fit???????

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by Justin Phillips
What is a good muffler for the TC3? Also what upgrades would you recomend on the RTR version. I already have the two speed conversion, an OS CVR engine with O'donnell race head w/ non-pull mount and flywheel. Is there anything else I should look hard at?

I would look at getting some CVD's if you don't have them. Get the carbon upper a-arms too. I've broke 4 of them in 3 days at the track. Look into getting different shock oils and springs. Oh, you may also want to get threaded shocks too.




NTC3
OS CV-R

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by tallyrc
ok, it's official. the aluminum cvd's are crap! i ahve now eaten 3 of them. does anybody have a part number for shiny steel ones that fit???????

It is NOT the aluminum, it is those CVD.......this is your solution.

http://www.niktin.com/Ebay/GPM/IMG_0818.JPG

[tallyrc]

rookie, how much, and from where can i get them? please...

[NTC3Fan]

Yup i agree 100%
I also just bought a pair of those...
if anyone wants 2 know more PM me...

Cheers!!
Bevan

[xfader]

Originally posted by mckrooz
Is it just one set of the "fix"? How much? I may be out there on Saturday morning. I think I've seen your car. Bronze rims right? I own a blue '00 Civic Si. I'll probably see ya out there.

Marvin

Well, my buddy Mon also has a white WRX and he's out there a lot more than I am. I may not be able to make it out there this weekend so let me know if you're interested by emailing me. I have 2 sets. 1 for the front and 1 for the rear. I will sell them for $25 which is how much you can get them for from Jim. I don't want to make any money, but just recover what I paid for them. I also have 2 used sets that I can take off my NTC3 that I am selling also. I have a lot of extra parts and hop ups if you need them including the natural Dual Chamber pipe and header that I used just one time at the track.

For those of you that don't know, the "fix" reinforces the shock tower assembly by having a 1 1/2" screw come up from the chassis, through the lower tranny case, and out the top of the upper tranny case. It attaches to a metal sleeve that goes down through the two extra holes on the shock tower and attaches to the screw via threads inside the tubing. So what it does is lock down the shock tower to the chassis to reinforce it during impact. As we all know, that is the weakness of the TC3 design. There are pics of it earlier in this thread. You might have to check the earlier versions of this thread since they broke it up into 3 segments.

-Mike

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by Justin Phillips
What is a good muffler for the TC3? Also what upgrades would you recomend on the RTR version. I already have the two speed conversion, an OS CVR engine with O'donnell race head w/ non-pull mount and flywheel. Is there anything else I should look hard at?

If you race on a short track, the the Paris Turbo Ring pipe. The combination of that pipe and the CVR makes tons of torque. If you race on a long track, look at the dual chamber from Associated or Fantom. I have the Associated & Paris, but I've heard the Fantom's are killer.

[Canada]

does anyone make universal joints either than GPM as i find them to be a little on the pricey side. So those won't have any pins to lose right and will probably be alot more durable

[SimonFDR]

If the front top arms are mounted on the outer hole, does the rear have the be the same?

[Drive4fun]

Ok i just got my ntc3 rtr my first nitro and it was a beautiful weather so i decided to break my engine with a friend it was 75* F and it wasnt raining perfect justa bit cloudy ok i had trouble at first fuel didnt go through in the carb so i opened the lid a couple of times then it flooded so i took out the plug and filter and emptied it out... ok so i read the break in etc then i got pebbles stuck in my spur gear and then my car wouldnt go and it started to overheat i think so i stoped it and i took them out and i started again well after it started to rain after the 3 tanks of breaking in so i stoped when i got inside i notice that the *clutch*( i think) its about 1 inch between the pinion and the flywheel it turned colors half of it now is blue and half of it is yellow what is my problem i wonder if i did it to hot my engine i made a mistake or something or is this normal car runeed smooth until the pebbles but im curious and worried about what happened? is this a big deal what should i do? what is it? i hoped i explained myself enough any questions feel free to ask i need your help thank you

[Canada]

you could have overheated the clutch bell and shoes when the pebbles were stuck . Take your engine out by the four screws in the bottom of the chassis underneath the engine mounts. the clutch bell can be removed by the screw at the end of the gears. Once you screw that out slide off your clutch bell (two bearings with itand washer) Check your clutch shoes for excessive wear. they should be alomost white and smooth since you have hardly used them. The clutch bell should not be out of round and if it is replace it. if the shoes are bad you will have to replace them. reverse for assembly and use locktight for the engine mount screws.

[frank13]

ok has anyone tried to put the ld3 diffs in the ntc3 yet, i am curious , as i would love to have a gear diff in my ntc3 especially one that is sealed ,

if anyone has tried , please let me know ,



ffrank13
rcca moderator,

[Drive4fun]

thank you canada ill check that tom later gn all

[tamiyajoe]

will a mugen/novarossi mt 12 fit into the ntc3? (it say "nova" and "m12" on the sides) cuz it has a crank that has threads (near the flyweel) and then its a smoothe rod like thing w/ a thread on the end.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
will a mugen/novarossi mt 12 fit into the ntc3? (it say "nova" and "m12" on the sides) cuz it has a crank that has threads (near the flyweel) and then its a smoothe rod like thing w/ a thread on the end.

U mean a MT12 SG Crank like this one below:

Yup it will fit fine with no hassles.....

http://www.mugenracing.com/images/image_mt12_tourbo_engine.jpg

Cheers!

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
will a mugen/novarossi mt 12 fit into the ntc3? (it say "nova" and "m12" on the sides) cuz it has a crank that has threads (near the flyweel) and then its a smoothe rod like thing w/ a thread on the end.

There are 2 shaft of engine type, SG crank, like the picture above, or STANDARD crank, that is usually a short with thread one, usually you can see that on HPI cars or OFF-ROAD like T-maxx.

No matter what shaft you are using, MT-12 from Mugen/Nova Rossi will work on NTC3...........many ppl used that engine on NTC3 with great result, you won't go wrong on that.

But I think a 4 years old (design) engine might not be UP TO PAR compare to the newbie like OS TR, Sirio, Fantom, Paris or Pixie Black (Rossi), those engines are within the same power spec and same price (around $140 to $160 range)..........

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by tallyrc
ok, it's official. the aluminum cvd's are crap! i ahve now eaten 3 of them. does anybody have a part number for shiny steel ones that fit???????

If you want, you can get the Shiny bones from MIP meant for the electric TC3 and use them with the stock axles.

[speedydave]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
There are 2 shaft of engine type, SG crank, like the picture above, or STANDARD crank, that is usually a short with thread one, usually you can see that on HPI cars or OFF-ROAD like T-maxx.

Actually, the T-Maxx uses either a short shaft engine( OS (S) engines), or you have to cut the shaft on a standard engine, or you can use the 2.5, which has a special, shorter IPS crank, to fit a pilot shaft engine in the T-Maxx. A good example of an offroad that uses a standard crank is the XXXNT. Just thought I'd clarify that, not really sure why though... :rolleyes:

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I am trying to order a socket driver for the nut where to tighten the wheels. Do you guys know what size of the socket driver i need to get? They have 5 sizes below:

1/4" ( 6.35 mm )
3/8" ( 9.525 mm )
3/16" ( 4.763 mm )
5/16" ( 7.938 mm )
11/32

Thanks.

[tamiyajoe]

yupp, that pic was my motor. thanksa lot you guys. does anyone know were i can get the instructions for the carb settings or anythjing like that? aslo, wat starter box should i get? should i use a 12v batery? or 2 stick packs? thanks

[mckrooz]

Anyone running this? How is the handling compared to stock. Any pros and cons?

I see guys at the track, and when they hold their cars and rev them, the front wheels spin forever while the rears stop spinning as soon as they let off the throttle. Is that what a one way will do? I tried to get the same effect by loosening my front diff and tightening the rear but it's not the same. BTW, all these guys are running the Mugen MTX-3. I saw one guy whose front wheels weren't spinning at all. What do you think he was running? These guys were hauling ass around the corners at almost full throttle while I have to blip around the corners.

[cbr74]

matrix... you want 11/32" for the wheel nuts.

[Maverick Racer]

mckrooz: that is what a one way will do. It will essentially make your car 2wd off power then 4wd on power. It lets the front wheel spin independently of each other when your off power. It will give you much more steering off power and make you have less steering on power.

[Raydee]

I am using two 6 cell stick packs in my AE box and I wondered if anyone has tried charging them together at the same time. My charger will handle up to 24 cells so i don't see that being a problem.

[tamiyajoe]

wat starter box should i get? should i use a 12v batery? or 2 stick packs? thanks

well? any ideas? thanks

[torchedlh]

i say 12v batteries as they last MUCH longer than 2 stick packs. 2 stick packs might last a day of racing, but a 12v battery will last like 3 or 4. and they're a lot cheaper.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by tamiyajoe
yupp, that pic was my motor. thanksa lot you guys. does anyone know were i can get the instructions for the carb settings or anythjing like that? aslo, wat starter box should i get? should i use a 12v batery? or 2 stick packs? thanks

Again, there are NO standard carb setting for any engine in this world.....engine will change due to the temperature and the plug you use......

However, I have the MT-12 START-UP needle setting for you to use, but I have to post later, cause my book is at home....but using that needle setting, you can BREAK-IN the engine without any problem, then you can start LEANING the high end.......then maybe a little on the low-end, then you are done.......

That setting will give you a good starting point for your MT-12, the other company that do a great job of that is OS, I wish Nova Rossi can do the same, but they are they are BETTER, and they never include a setting in their engine.....the reason they do that is because they expect only experienced racer should use their engine, if you have no idea how to (or when to) richen or leaning needles, you should not use thier ENGINE......:mad:

Also, starter box..........hands down on the NTC3 starter box....like $70-80 range but it will last forever.....and the box have 3 different setting (rubber wheel location) so if you decided bouncing to MTX3 or 705 or V1RR....to 1/8th off-road race, that starter box will start almost any car (almost)....about the power supply, (2) 7.2V just won't cut the deal.....UNLESS you are full time parking lot bashing worry, that really doesn't matter. If you race every SAT or SUNDAY this summer, get yourself the Hobbico 12V 7amps Gel cell, add some foam cord around the cell and it should fit the gel cell within the box perfectly. It is a little heavier, but one fully charged gel cell can last you 3-4 weeks of racing....that is 3-4 weeks of SAT and SUN races, almost like 8-10 races before you have to recharge the cell......Gel cell with charger from tower is like $30....so $100 you should get the top of the line starter box that can start more then just NTC3. Great deal.

[Wyle E. Coyote]

I understand the stearing issues with a front 1-way, and am going to pick one up. I have a question about going with a solid rear axel. What are the benefits/detriments to doing this?

I have a realitively good grasp on suspension charectoristics, and the setup. I am considering purchasing a new "upper deck" or "radio tray" whatever you call it on the ntc3, but was wondering, before I spend the money, will I really notice a difference in the handling, with a stiffer chassis? Are there any in particular that y'all would recomend?

I apologise for this redundant question, but where can I purchase "the fix"?

[Canada]

you can find the fix on e-bay I belive

[Striker]

I don't want this to sould like every other post asking what's the fastest... I need an engine, for one race.

I'm looking for the badest .12 or .15 engine out there. Modded not not. I'm building a car for someone, who has to win a drag race againest a friend. Money isn't a problem. The car's a NTC3 with a two chamber pipe, three shoe flywheel and copper springs. For now, the car just has to win this race. The person he's going to be racing has a Fourtec with an unknown Sirio. I'd perfure the race not to be close. What would all of you suggest? Thanks for all the help.

Currently the car has a MT-12, but I'm looking for all options. I'm going to be putting a 6 tooth split for the gearing, 21/27 with 54/48. If you don't think that is wise, tell me otherwise. Thanks again.

[us_matrix]

Anyone using Hudy #10 8250 setup system? Are they perfect fit?
I remember i used to try my friend's Hudy setup system (but don't remember what model, i had hard time to put the camber board into the AXLE. I guess becasue NTC3 Axle is larger than other touring car axle. I just want to make sure if i get the #10 8250 will not run into the same AXLE problem like before.

I am using Integy but just like to try Hudy instead.

Thanks in advance.

[fastharry]

all you have to do is SLIGHTLY take a little out of the hole with a dremel,and take a small little bit out of 2 of the stands to clear the rear toe links...I had no problem with doing it(and I HATE to change anything I buy like that)...

[tamiyajoe]

ok, this going to be my setup:

mugen/novarossi mt 12
ntc3 (of course)
AE starter box
hobbico gell cell (7 amp) and charger
mx3 radio
i dunno what body im going to use (prolly stratus)

how is this? look good?

also, wat fuels are you guys using? i like odonnell but i herd guys sayin that it smells bad (like...??) any other suggestions?

[Collari-Tc3]

Striker,

Get a Jp Modified Rts 5 port rear exhaust. That thing will annihilate your competition. Or if you wanna go all out, get the Rb Concepts x12 Rody Roem. Either one you'll win.
;)

[clgq2]

I have been looking at the O.S. 12TR engine for some parking lot racing. Any other engines I should look at?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Striker
I don't want this to sould like every other post asking what's the fastest... I need an engine, for one race.

I'm looking for the badest .12 or .15 engine out there. Modded not not. I'm building a car for someone, who has to win a drag race againest a friend. Money isn't a problem. The car's a NTC3 with a two chamber pipe, three shoe flywheel and copper springs. For now, the car just has to win this race. The person he's going to be racing has a Fourtec with an unknown Sirio. I'd perfure the race not to be close. What would all of you suggest? Thanks for all the help.

Currently the car has a MT-12, but I'm looking for all options. I'm going to be putting a 6 tooth split for the gearing, 21/27 with 54/48. If you don't think that is wise, tell me otherwise. Thanks again.
you could get a sirio outlaw, even If you run the same engine as the 4-tec you will still win because the ntc3 is naturally faster because of its smooth drivetrain and should beat it in acceleration and top speed...

[TC3Kamikaze]

Originally posted by clgq2
I have been looking at the O.S. 12TR engine for some parking lot racing. Any other engines I should look at?

All depends on the track size, the O.S. is a great choice though. Either it or a novarossi based engine would do.

TC3

[wilson_bryant]

does any company make al suspension parts for this car?? like lower and upper arms, shocks and stuff like that?

[speedydave]

GPM (http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/catalog2.cgi?car_id=112&cat=&man=all) makes a lot of stuff for the NTC3. Associated makes aluminum body VCS shocks for the NTC3, and if you buy the kit, it comes with the threaded aluminum body VCS shocks.

[kreidel1]

Who sells the Rb Concepts x12 Rody Roem?

[tallyrc]

has anybody used the gpm titanium universals with any luck, do you all like them?

[Collari-Tc3]

www.brucknerhobbies.com sells the Rody Roem

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by tallyrc
has anybody used the gpm titanium universals with any luck, do you all like them?

If you are comparing with the stock CVD, I will never go back to those CVD.................NEVER. You just don't have to worry about that stupid set screws coming off (EVEN you thread lock the damn thing X number of times, it will still come off).

[fuse01]

what is the best combination for a CVR 12 engine---- pipe?
and gearing for a long straight of a tennis court length? 21/25?or 21/27?
what about 2 speed? i'm on 4 rounds out and still dont feel a thing.


please help.


cvr is not fast but very smoooth and can idle for ages and does not over heat.

[HauntedMyst]

What size foam are you guys running on your NTC3's?

Front 26 or 28?
Rear 28 or 30?

Thanks in advance!

[nitro#1]

RE : What size foam are you guys running on your NTC3's?

Im running 26s in the front and 30s in the rear

Nitro#1

[Collari-Tc3]

Believe it or not......26s all around:eek:

[mckrooz]

I am also running 26's all around. I'll be switching to 30 rears and 28's in front soon.

[HauntedMyst]

Thanks guys!

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
What size foam are you guys running on your NTC3's?

Front 26 or 28?
Rear 28 or 30?

Thanks in advance!

Just to give you some extra information.......not all the FOAMS created the same........especially FRONT and REAR foam compound.....front foams are for FRONT use only, and rears for rear use....

Ellegi's foams are very much like 26mm wide for front and 30mm for rear.....and their shores are different then Nitro shoes, so don't mix them up....

For NTC3, ppl use Nitro shoes over Ellegi, cause that is the foams designed for NTC3 specificly......but of course, you can always use Ellegi for NTC3, I used them because I still have some left from last season....

But Nitro shoes only came in 28mm and 30mm, versus Ellegi 26mm and 30mm.........that's why some ppl say using 28mm front versus Ellegi 26mm front, and I am not sure that extra 2mm of foams from Nitro shoes will give you more steering or not...

Hope that will help............

[Drive4fun]

I recently bought a ntc3 rtr. It all started my breaking the gears inside the servo so i bought a new one with meatle gears and some ball bearings a hobbico one. My lhs said its much better than the stock so i bought it. I had to make a bigger hole for the steering arm and it came out good but one problem when i turn left the car brakes and when i turn right it accelerates more im stumped i am close to buying the old steering servo again and just start from stock again i dont know what to do anyone know the solution to this problem?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Drive4fun
I recently bought a ntc3 rtr. It all started my breaking the gears inside the servo so i bought a new one with meatle gears and some ball bearings a hobbico one. My lhs said its much better than the stock so i bought it. I had to make a bigger hole for the steering arm and it came out good but one problem when i turn left the car brakes and when i turn right it accelerates more im stumped i am close to buying the old steering servo again and just start from stock again i dont know what to do anyone know the solution to this problem?

Ah.........you plug the servo onto the WRONG plug location, you suppose to plug the STEERING servo to the STEERING slot....apparently, you plugged the steering servo to the THROTTLE slot..........plug the steering (your new hobbico servo) to the slot number 1 (or the lowest slot toward the edge of the receiver....)

[Drive4fun]

Heh i wish that was my solution but thank you for your reply i think i wasnt to specific ok... When i set the sensitivity at high the highest it goes and i turn to my left while applying throttle the car brakes im pretty sure its none of the servos but the controller itself but im not sure so im asking you guys to see if any of you have been through this problem or just know the solution thanks

[Ford850]

Does the NTC-3 require a short shaft motor?

[nitro#1]

Heh i wish that was my solution but thank you for your reply i think i wasnt to specific ok... When i set the sensitivity at high the highest it goes and i turn to my left while applying throttle the car brakes im pretty sure its none of the servos but the controller itself but im not sure so im asking you guys to see if any of you have been through this problem or just know the solution thanks

Hey i had the same problem you have...you have to set your servos to reverse on your controller if it has one. when you turn right it turns left and when hit throttle you brake...yup there should be a switch on your controller to reverse it...not sure how to do this on the rtr kit.... hope this helps

nitro#1

[Distro]

Actually you are wrong about nitro shoe fronts, they are 26mm. I've tried running 28mms (speedmind) up front with 30mms but the car doesn't handle right, atleast right as fast. This could also be due to the tires, but more then likely its the contact patch. The sweet spot for the car tire wise is 26mm frotns and 30mm rears, 40 shore is what i'd use unless its really hot out or the track has alot of grip.

Ford, it can use both short shaft and sg shaft (long, or P shaft). The kit comes with an adapter for the short shaft so which ever engine you want will work, even rotary carb engines (although i don't recommend them, i'd stick with a nova varient, either mugen or serpent motors as they seem to be the best).

[Distro]

Originally posted by Drive4fun
Heh i wish that was my solution but thank you for your reply i think i wasnt to specific ok... When i set the sensitivity at high the highest it goes and i turn to my left while applying throttle the car brakes im pretty sure its none of the servos but the controller itself but im not sure so im asking you guys to see if any of you have been through this problem or just know the solution thanks

Ok lets get this hammered out. First set all the dials on the radio to the neutral settings. Then tell us when you pull back on the trigger, does it open up the carb, or does it apply the brakes. Next, just turn the wheel left (don't do anything else) and watch to make sure the wheels point left, and see if the throttle servo does anything. You should also do this for turning the wheel right. Do this when the car isn't running, should beable to do it on your work bench, tell us the results

[Drive4fun]

Ok i did at what was told and here are the results when i turn left with accelerating with the car off just electronics on the wheels turn left but the throttle servo brakes at the same time but this is only on high sensitivity only when i lower it down it works fine and when i turn right the wheels turn right but the throttle servo twichtes a bit

when i turn right it turns right when i turn left it turns left when i accelerate it accelerates when i brake it brakes

just when i turn left at full sensitivity it brakes at the same time withought holding brake and when i turn right it give a bit more acceleration is it clear?

[fastharry]

maybe the metal gears in the servo are causing a glitch with the radio....I'd take it back the the hobby shop..maybe he has a std nylon gear servo hanging around you could pop in..


also,hobbico servos are made by hitec..and its possible you got a bad servo thatys causing feedback to teh reciever..

[Drive4fun]

Thanks all for replys ive figured it out the problem was the dual right on steering was set too high and it wouldnt go any farther so it just braked for some reason i just got one question

why when i turn left or right why does the throttle servo twitch? is that normal it effects my car a lil but its worth fixing for sure thanks


Yeah i will see i will open up the servo and maybe get the nylon ones or something aight thx if what i said solved it then tell me thanks all for replys

[Pro3/nmt105]

How much does it twitch? It could be because of interference or it could be because its under load. Do you mean it buzzes? because when my servos are under load and not in the perfect neutral position that I have them adjusted for they buzz.

[Nexus]

Just wondering...

All I have ever owned and raced are electrics...I currently race a TC3.

How difficult is it to learn to use/race a Nitro TC3? I figure I can build it no problem but I don't really know about maintenence and tuning.

[Pro3/nmt105]

The suspension is completly diffrent from the regular TC3, so itll be diffrent from tuning your regulartc3 because it has ball pivor suspension, but its one of the easiest cars to set-up so you shouldnt have a problem. The only thing that you might have trouble is tuning the eninge, that is if this is your first nitro. I suggest a cv-r as a first engine because its very easy to tune and the ntc3 is pretty fast with it.

[spenzalii]

Gentlemen,
I committed heresy. I went out and bought a LD3. And as much as it may pain you to hear it, the car is the real deal. At the track this weekend, the car got more attention than anything else, and the motor wasn't even broken in or running in the races. The things everyone agreed on that ruled were the gear diffs, the rear suspension (no tie rods to adjust toe!), the plastics, especially the shock tower design, and the value. You get a whole bunch for $300, more than any other RTR. The fail safe is a really nice touch, as is the bag. The lack of a carry handle sux, as does the fact it takes a bit more disassembly to access stuff (the shock towers and upper arms have to move to get to the radio tray screws. Then of course is the Force .12, a lowly motor for sure, but does have a slide carb now.
In a nutshell, I like the car. I'll post a review in a bit and review some of your pointers for gearing ideas, among others. Give it a look, you may be surprised.

[speedydave]

Guys, I just got my NTC3 put together(and I have pics, but I'm sure nobody wants to see those...). With the stock gearing, is the 2nd speed's mesh supposed to be slightly looser than the 1st speed's? So far the car is stock, but two packages of The Fix are on their way, and I'll definitely be getting an RPM front bumper when the stocker breaks(which I trimmed with my Dremel). Also, I know the car is pretty good stock(needs The Fix), but what other hopups would you recommend? I was going to pick up steering bearings when I bought the car, but they didn't have any. :( Thanks!

[torchedlh]

i'm not sure if it's supposed to be like this, but my bigger spur/smaller pinion mesh is looser than the other.

read this over:
HPI, I'd reccomend having some spare arms, shock towers, screws of the common sizes, pivot balls, some spare diff rings/balls/thrust balls, CVD rebuild kit(s), and some extra CVD bones (try the composite ones for back-ups since they are cheap).

05", 1/16", 3/32", and 5/64"

tips:
1) Pre-cut some threads with a tap before trying to install the screws into the plastic parts.
This is especially important for the 4-40 sized screws. Do not do this for the pivot balls
though! Doing so will make them too loose and you may constantly loose your suspension settings.
DO grease the pivot ball threads before installing though.

2) When installing screws into metal parts (engine mounts, brake bracket, etc.), use threadlock
(the blue type, not red).

3) When assembling the swing rack assembly, install an extra flat washer under the servo saver
spring (p/n 3929) to stiffen up the servo saver action. This will help reduce front end "push"
and tighten up the turning radius under power. Some people have had good luck replacing the
stock spring with the one from the RC10GT slipper clutch.

4) Pay close attention when assembling the steering/hub carriers (p/n 2247). There is a top and
a bottom to them. If you get it wrong, you'll have a very strange looking suspension. Don't ask
me how I know this.

5) When running the car, keep an eye on your brake pads. On my car, the engine's crankshaft
output bearing is right in line with the brake pads. A small amount of fuel/oil was leaking
pass the bearing and was being thrown onto the brake pads/disc and caused poor braking.

6) If you replace the factory fuel line with another brand, make sure you get one with the
same O.D. The reason is because of the fuel tank pressure line that goes into the muffler.
Since Associated does not provide a fitting on the muffler for the connection, the pressure
line is just pushed into a hole in the muffler and relies on friction to keep it in place.

7) Paint one of the 2-speed clutch shoes (not on the surface that contacts the clutch bell)
with a light color paint (lexan body paint works great). This will aid in adjusting the clutch
because there's less chance of getting the two clutch shoes mixed up while adjusting.

8) Don't use grease on the pinion/crown gears in the differentials - it gets thrown off in a
short amount of time. Instead, use 100,000 weight silicon differential oil. Don't fill the diff
housings with oil! Just coat the gear teeth.