Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v3.0

[show2ime]

???what r u saying?

[puma1824]

Originally posted by show2ime
???what r u saying?

YGPM = You have Private Mail

- it's about the Centax clutch

[puma1824]

Originally posted by show2ime
???what r u saying?

YGPM = You have Private Mail

- it's about the Centax clutch

[show2ime]

i emailed u back...Email me at show2ime2000@yahoo.com
the answer is yes....

[tallyrc]

hpi rims nd tires work, but the bodies are actually about 1/4 of an inch shorter wheelbase then associated/proline bodies. if the hpi bodies are uncut, line up the front wheels and adjust accordingly for the rears. get prololine bodies anyway...

[SimonFDR]

I want to attach fuel like from the exhaust and lead it to the back of the car so that the smoke doesnt even touch the car. Is this possible? Is it safe?

[SimonFDR]

I want to attach fuel like from the exhaust and lead it to the back of the car so that the smoke doesnt even touch the car. Is this possible? Is it safe?

[SimonFDR]

I want to attach fuel like from the exhaust and lead it to the back of the car so that the smoke doesnt even touch the car. Is this possible? Is it safe?

[show2ime]

You are going to ruin your car, lol. It can't breathe like that. Take a straw and put it in your mouth..now try to breathe out of that straw while running around the block...That tubing from your stinger tip will have the same effect on your car.....

[hpi#1]

ya that ain't that greta of an idea. what I did on my car is i bought some tubing from a hardware store and cut 4 cm long piece that fits AROUND the stinger so it basicaly extends the stinger by 2 cm, cuz it covers the whole sitnger which is like 2 cm long. this keeps alot of exhaust from hitting ur car and keeps it alot cleaner. if you dont want to do that, ur hobby store will most likely carry some tubing made to put over ur stinger.

[Pro3/nmt105]

if you want rear exaust you can use the stock rear exaust hedar and get a mip stinger pipe you just have to see if the pipe will fit over the shock tower with the body on. It will give u rear exaust but will change performance.

[Pro3/nmt105]

you could also buy an exaust deflector to keep the oil off your car

[puma1824]

show2ime:

I emailed you back...please let me know.

Thanks,
Puma

[waileun]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
I want to attach fuel like from the exhaust and lead it to the back of the car so that the smoke doesnt even touch the car. Is this possible? Is it safe?

Hi Simon,
I see that you are still using the stock pipe,you may want to upgrade to the dual chamber pipe before you try the extention to the exhaust pipe using the fuel tube. If you are going to use other brand's pipes, then you will need some creativity to mount the pipe.

[Grifter]

Like Pro3/nmt105 said an Exhaust Deflector should work fine.

I wouldnt trust that the exhaust would be able to push any oil all the way to the back through some tubing.

I think the Exhaust Deflector should work just fine

[Pro3/nmt105]

a deflector will work fine but if wants the exaust to come out of the rear he can definitly use a mip stinger with the stock hedar, im just not sure how itll fit under the body.

[SimonFDR]

This is the engine I have: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM6&P=7

Which exhaust would be best with this engine?

[show2ime]

I emailed u back....Let me know if u got it.

[need4speed4]

hey, I'm soo excited! I just ordered a Sirio .12, blue polished dual chamber exhaust pipe and header, ofna true start-starter box, and a venom fail safe! My ntc3 is gonna be fast!

I broke in my rtr ntc3 engine so I pretty much know how to do it, but any tips on breaking in and tuning the Sirio would be appreciated.

thanks: Thomas

[show2ime]

ygpm.....

[adlawoo]

:D thus AE sell a special tool to remove the pinion gears on the clutch bell, want to change my gear set-up and also has anyone tried or running a GH Front Blade Roll Bar? Thinking of getting it, but don't know if it really works like the AE team. Many thanks! :)

[hyperstang]

There is a tool that they sell on ebay to take off your pinion gears...But all I do is put a rag on and use a pair of pliers. Here is a pic of my crowd pleazer powered by a JP modified engine. Very fast engine...

Race on..

[2Fast2Furious]

I just ordered my NTC3 and was wondering how often do the diffs have to be rebuilt.? the reason I ask Is my buddy had an electric TC3 that was maybe run 3-4 times max and he decided he didnt want it so I took and was going to try to sell it for him. I took it apart for cleaning and decided to take the diff apart to make sure it had enough grease in it and the front diff balls where welded to the gear like it had got real hot. I had to take a knife and pick the balls out Is this a common problem or did he just screw up.?

[Twist 2 Go]

I'd say he had them too loose. They should be much more reliable/durable than that.

[derekbond]

Any thoughts on the Sirio .18? The specs at Trinity look pretty
good!

1.9 hp
40,000 rpm

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by derekbond
Any thoughts on the Sirio .18? The specs at Trinity look pretty
good!

1.9 hp
40,000 rpm

Well, Trinity screw up big time on the Sirio .12 engine's spec, and I would WAIT to see what this 18 can do in the future, just let SOMEONE try that first......

But 1.9 hp / 40,000 rpm is possible on 18, assuming this Sirio .18 is supposed to be bigger and faster then big block .15 that is.......

[hyperstang]

Isn't the Sirio actuall 1.4 bhp and not the 1.8 bhp as stated in some sites?

Just need a clarification...because if this is so, I might as well sell my JP modified and get this engine. Way cheaper then what I spent on my engine....

Race on

[cbr74]

All claimed HP numbers are BS. Sirio is no exception.

I wouldn't put a .18 in a touring car. The extra torque of the added displacement is wasted on a car as light as the NTC3.

[hyperstang]

I agree, way to much low end....better off in a tmaxx.

Race on

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by hyperstang
Isn't the Sirio actuall 1.4 bhp and not the 1.8 bhp as stated in some sites?


The 1.8hp/39000rpm BS are not from some other site, it is from SIRIO/Trinity themselve, they created their own BS and trouble and forced to tune down the spec to 1.4hp/36000 rpm. (More believable)

About this .18 engine (well, it is a bigger and more powerfull engine) the SPEC does look belieable, but putting engine like that on a TC is not FUN at all......if you want OUTLAW, simply drop a $500 JP .21 Nova Rossi engine onto a pan car and do 100 plus MPH for less then $1000.

[NTC3NUT]

I recieved my parts order from RD Logics today. Thought you guys might want to take a look. I only plan on using the upper transmission cases for now, but the rest of the stuff looks good too.

[Unregistered]

You got 4 diff cases, 4 shock towers, & 8 chassis braces for $80? Aw, come on you're pulling my leg

[2Fast2Furious]

Went to the RD Logics site cant find any of the products pictured above what gives.?????

[NTC3NUT]

You have to contact them directly thru their website. They'll give you the pricing & delivery info.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
You have to contact them directly thru their website. They'll give you the pricing & delivery info.

All those for $80...? Where did you get that information...? All I really interesting is the upper diff case cause that is the only problem of the NTC3.

[2Fast2Furious]

NTC3NUT...Thanks for the info.

[waileun]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
I recieved my parts order from RD Logics today. Thought you guys might want to take a look. I only plan on using the upper transmission cases for now, but the rest of the stuff looks good too.

WOW! What material are they made of? Alloy or 'plastic' ?

[ae#1]

CAN YOU GUY PLEAAAASSEEE HELP ME!!

this is the link to my prob please click

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=114443

[ice-wolf]

ntc3 ruleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[ice-wolf]

hi! everyone did any one try putting 15jp on ntc3, is it good or bad?

thank for the info,,,:confused: :D :) :(;)

[fastharry]

I'll assume you have a Factory team tray(thats the associated one).....If you look on page 20 of your manual,it shows spacers that go underneath your throttle servo(depending on the brand).....AND,if you look at the instructions that came with the deck,there are 2 more you have to add when you install the deck..they go underneath the servo mounts,and lift teh servo up....check to make sure you have these in....

I don't have the RTR,I have the kit..I don't know what changed in teh RTR,but you can always go to associateds site and look at the original manual(for the kit) and compare...


as far as the deck itself hitting,mine is about 1 mm away,thats pretty close also..once agian,I'd get teh servo out of teh way,and trim the deck a tad..


what batterys are you using?...

[NTC3NUT]

waileun,
They are cast aluminum.

[ae#1]

Originally posted by fastharry
I'll assume you have a Factory team tray(thats the associated one).....If you look on page 20 of your manual,it shows spacers that go underneath your throttle servo(depending on the brand).....AND,if you look at the instructions that came with the deck,there are 2 more you have to add when you install the deck..they go underneath the servo mounts,and lift teh servo up....check to make sure you have these in....

I don't have the RTR,I have the kit..I don't know what changed in teh RTR,but you can always go to associateds site and look at the original manual(for the kit) and compare...


as far as the deck itself hitting,mine is about 1 mm away,thats pretty close also..once agian,I'd get teh servo out of teh way,and trim the deck a tad..


what batterys are you using?...

Thanks you, ya in the manual it tells u weather not u need spacers for ur specific model of servo mine did not need so i put the ones i needed to put in anyway, anyway i fixed it i had to trim everything up, as for the battery its a no mercy NiMH battery pack recharchable, its to big to put unterneatheath the tray, so i geuss i have to put it on top of tray with zip ties. THANKS AGAIN

[fastharry]

Originally posted by ae#1
Thanks you, ya in the manual it tells u weather not u need spacers for ur specific model of servo mine did not need so i put the ones i needed to put in anyway, anyway i fixed it i had to trim everything up, as for the battery its a no mercy NiMH battery pack recharchable, its to big to put unterneatheath the tray, so i geuss i have to put it on top of tray with zip ties. THANKS AGAIN


what does that pack look like?......why not get the 5 cell flat pack they show in teh instructions?...putting a battery pack on top changes your CG......looks ugly..........AND,stands the possibility of comming loose in a collision....


BTW,your very welcome....

[SimonFDR]

RD Logics has the while tranny case, brace ... kit for 69.95 with free shipping. They are also giving the T6 Chassis for free! Ordered my self a set.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by ae#1
Thanks you, ya in the manual it tells u weather not u need spacers for ur specific model of servo mine did not need so i put the ones i needed to put in anyway, anyway i fixed it i had to trim everything up, as for the battery its a no mercy NiMH battery pack recharchable, its to big to put unterneatheath the tray, so i geuss i have to put it on top of tray with zip ties. THANKS AGAIN
the spacers that come with the upperdeck must be used the spacers that the manual says you need for some servos are much smaller spacers that come with the kit. look at the direction sheet that comes with it it dosnt say put it in if you have a certain servo just to put it in, you need them for all servos.

[TopKatz]

Sup yall!!!

Just ordered up a NTC3 rear kit. Im going to strip my Rs4-3 of all its equipment (JR electronics, RB x12 3port) and drop that stuff intot eh AE. That will give me a RB powered RFX and NTC3. Im not sure what Im going to do with my Rs4 yet. Ill probaly put the 12rs motor back in with some old equipment so I can let my freinds bash it.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by TopKatz
Sup yall!!!

Just ordered up a NTC3 rear kit. Im going to strip my Rs4-3 of all its equipment (JR electronics, RB x12 3port) and drop that stuff intot eh AE. That will give me a RB powered RFX and NTC3. Im not sure what Im going to do with my Rs4 yet. Ill probaly put the 12rs motor back in with some old equipment so I can let my freinds bash it.




'bout time;) ...........enjoy..

[TopKatz]

lol...

I gave up the HPI fight last year Harry. Once I drove a real car(read RFX) it became painfully obvious how lacking the Rs4 is. The Rs4 did serve its purpous though. It got me back into the hoby, and focused on TC's... so it was money well spent in that sense.

Now its time to move on, try some thing new. Im sure I will enjoy building and running the NTC3....

[hyperstang]

Enjoy TopKatz,
I enjoyed every part of my NTC3 and now I have 3 (yikes). Since the day it hooked up at my first RC Car race, I like the looks and feel of the car. I even had a partner of mine change from his RS43 SS (about 4 months old) and change to NTC3. So enjoy and take some pictures...

Race on

[TopKatz]

Thanks for the encouragement guys!

Ill besure and post some pics on my web site, and link them in here...

www.intercityinc.com/tkrc

BTW: Just for kicks, type my name into a google search "topkatz", then scroll down. I think Im the last listing.... kinda cool to be listed in google!

[Wyle E. Coyote]

Here comes another question, from a guy new to nitro. I'm getting ready to break in my engine, and realized I don't yet have any fuel.

1. Should I use a fuel with a lower nitro content to break in my motor?

2. I am planning to race, and want to know if I should stick with a fuel that is 20%, 25%, or 30% nitro?

Just for y'alls information, I'm running the O.S. .12 tr motor.

[TopKatz]

Brake the motor in with the fuel your going to use.

What type of racing are you going to be doing? Some weekend parking lot racing? Some light semi organized track racing?

If so then %20 is fine. Its easy to get, and will give you good life expectancy out of your Mill. Pick some brand that you can get all the time, and stick with it. I run Blue Thunder because my LHS has it all the time.

If you are going to be more serious about racing, and dont mind rebuilding your motor often, tehn you could go with some %30. However this will change the timming of your motor, and you will nead to get a different head shim to compencate and get the timming back to teh correct place. Im not sure what shime you would nead with that OS motor and %30, but your LHS might help, or try searching for "OS .12 TR + %30 nitro" or some thing like that.

Good luck!

[cbr74]

Once I got my NTC3, the RS4's went on E-Bay.

[TopKatz]

I thought about e-baying my Rs4, the problem is that my Rs4 is so pimped out that I would jsut take a bath selling it. Even if I sell it as RTR I would only get like 250-300 ... which is just not enuff money for me to sell it. My rs4 3 has about every posible worth while hop-up. Its not a bad car, its just not a good one either...... ohwell...live and learn!

[hyperstang]

I totaly agree with TOPKATZ,
break in the engine with the same nitro you plan on racing with. I personly use 30% O'Donnel with my Nitro TC3, running my JP Modified engine. But again I race competitively in ROAR races every other sunday, but for just the parking lot stuff and maybe the occasional get together with freinds....20% is more than sufficiant. I wouldn't go less than that though...especially with the OS 12 TR....

Race on....

[OutKast]

double post.

[OutKast]

I just received my ntc3 today. I planned on getting the kit, but when i went to my LHS the price difference was a mere $30.00 for the rtr. They had a sale on, so i got the ae .12 and that ace transmitter...not to bad for $30.00...lol anyway, i have the threaded shocks on order, but what shock oil, and front/rear springs do you recomend i start with? its mostly for parking lot and club races, but i do need to compete with the fusions...lol and what else, beside the 2-speed is the difference between the kit and the RTR? And also, i saw a RX pack on ebay, and was wondering if your guys knew if it would fit of hand? thanks again guys.

6V 1000 MAH NIMH FLAT RECEIVER PACK

[fastharry]

this is where me and topkatz don't agree....I did not like Blue tthunder....and with only a 10% oil content,I don't think its enough oil for OS engines....

I run Trinity monster HP....also HPI's power fuel.....they are all mixed my Wildcat fuels..I had nothing but problems with BT(read:engine failure).....esp. since I don't use temp as a tuning guide,only performance....

[Wyle E. Coyote]

Thank ya'll for the help!

[OutKast]

Heres a picture...does anyone know if thse are worth the money? the distrabuted by racers hobbies, and sell for like $14.99??? i just thought it seemed like a good deal, but have never owned a RX pack before? thanks.

6V 1000+ MAH NIMH FLAT RECEIVER PACK

[nhearnest]

I was curious if you guys were familiar with a good .12 side exhaust engine for the ntc3. Maybe I should just switch over to rear exhaust set up for my ntc3. What parts are needed to switch from side exhaust to rear exhaust and is it worth the cost? I saw some people tested that funky looking dynamite header and was wondering if that would be a cheaper alternative so I could use rear exhaust engine.

[hyperstang]

OutKast,
I bought the AE shock kit thing with all the different shocks and I run the blue in the fronts and reds in the back, or vise versa...Well its the softs in the back and the stiffer ones in the front. In the rear I run 50wt Losi and front more....I think in the 60's or 70's. I forget, I am at work.

I needed way more traction on the at our track, and punching the throttle through our sweeper, I needed my car to hang in there to rage in the staright away right after. This set up seems to work. I also run Sorex 36R in the rear and Sorex 40's in the front. I toed in the rears and set in the camber.

But there are guys running the stock springs and kicking butt out there. Also I think you RTR kit doesn't come with CVD's, but I maybe wrong. Congrats on the new NTC3....you will enjoy it.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by nhearnest
I was curious if you guys were familiar with a good .12 side exhaust engine for the ntc3. Maybe I should just switch over to rear exhaust set up for my ntc3. What parts are needed to switch from side exhaust to rear exhaust and is it worth the cost? I saw some people tested that funky looking dynamite header and was wondering if that would be a cheaper alternative so I could use rear exhaust engine.

If you decided to use SIDE exhaust engine, hands down to OS .12 CVR, and get yourself a $25 Paris Turbo Ring tune pipe, the best combo for side exh engine. Awesome low-end and still get Great high output for like $100 at Towers.

[hyperstang]

My first engine in my Nitro TC3 was actually a good engine, it was the Evolution II HPI 12. This was a great side exhaust engine, made by novarossi, and this thing kicked some serious booty. It kept up with the MT12's and OS motors.

Then I converted to a rear exhaust engine which I run right now. The JP Modified engine. Big difference from my HPI. I got hooked up with an AE dual chamber muffler and I am gone. I went to a lower pinion set up and my take off is awesome. I think 21/24 or something like that.

To switch from a side to rear exhuast, which is exactly what I did, was I just bought a non pull flywheel and non pull motor mounts. About 20.00-25.00. Or do the easy way and on the rear exhuast motor use the same flywheel and motor mounts you used on the side exhaust engine and put them on the new rear exhaust engine. When you use the starter box (another expense if you don't have one) the clearance for the flywheel should be about the same as non pull set up......

Oh yeah...you need a rear exhaust header and pipe..

Keep us posted..
Race on

[cbr74]

I started out with an O.S. 12 CV-RX in my NTC3, then switched to a Collari XS12PSS. The Collari puts the O.S. to shame. It is the shag nastiest side exhaust engine I've ever run.

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Feb/2003254271751703980997.jpg

[nhearnest]

Are the collari engines easy to tune and do they hold a tune well? I just checked the collari website and they are not showing any side exhaust engines. The only thing they show are the rear exhaust engines I hope they did not drop side exhuast line. How do you like the performance of your collari compared to some of the other hotter .12 engines on the market? What pipe are you using and do you like it better than the stock ae pipe?

Thanks for the quick reply.

[cbr74]

It's not as forgiving as an O.S. in the tuning department. But if you are at least decent with your tuning skills, it isn't hard to get it to scream.

Ace has the XS12 side exhaust on their site.

I'm running a Paris pipe which I really like.

[Way2Fast]

Originally posted by cbr74
It's not as forgiving as an O.S. in the tuning department. But if you are at least decent with your tuning skills, it isn't hard to get it to scream.

Ace has the XS12 side exhaust on their site.

I'm running a Paris pipe which I really like.

Can you post the link? I've looked and don't find it...

Thanks.

[cbr74]

Collari at Ace (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_118_119&products_id=2531&osCsid=b4a6f870f6914ed8a7f23999b568fbe9)

;)

[waileun]

Hi Guys,

I hope some of you out there can help me with this noise that I am experiencing with the digital servo.
I have bought the 3PK for my NTC3. It comes with 2 units of S9451 servo. After I mounted the servo on the NTC3 and turned it on, the servo driving the steering is constantly making noise. Initially I thought that the servo is spoilt but when I removed the servo horn, the noise disappeared.
So, it seems that the servo is experiencing some form of load when the servo horn is mounted. I did the sub trim for the steering. It did get rid of the noise at that point of time. But as soon as i turn the steering wheel left or right and then return it to neutral, the noise comes back.

Is this noise normal for digital servo? or have I mounted the servo wrongly? Can anyone help me with this? Thanks in advance.

[TopKatz]

Most digital servos will make noise when they have a load on them. What your describing sounds normal...

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Guys,

I hope some of you out there can help me with this noise that I am experiencing with the digital servo.
I have bought the 3PK for my NTC3. It comes with 2 units of S9451 servo. After I mounted the servo on the NTC3 and turned it on, the servo driving the steering is constantly making noise. Initially I thought that the servo is spoilt but when I removed the servo horn, the noise disappeared.
So, it seems that the servo is experiencing some form of load when the servo horn is mounted. I did the sub trim for the steering. It did get rid of the noise at that point of time. But as soon as i turn the steering wheel left or right and then return it to neutral, the noise comes back.

Is this noise normal for digital servo? or have I mounted the servo wrongly? Can anyone help me with this? Thanks in advance.

You SHOULD NOT have any noise when both servos are on NEUTRAL position (dead center position) cause there should not be any load there....then turn yoru steering to LEFT or RIGHT (all the way), if you can hear noises from both sides, that means your servos are pulling too much (steer too far to left or right)......use the 3PK screen page #1 then option #1, that should be able to trim the FAR LEFT and FAR RIGHT setting....trim them down a little untill the noise are disappear. (do exactly the same to your trottle servo).

I never be able to eliminate all those noise 100%, but you should try to let the servos turn to the RIGHT point, not too far and not too short....btw, I use Futaba analogy servos on my 3PK only. One more advise, the steering part of NTC3 are kinda funky, make sure follow the manual and get the right distance (You have to adjust that servo horn into some degree - like 8 degree or something)......and you cannot use servo saver onto your servo.

[cbr74]

Digital servos "chatter" it's perfectly normal. They are very sensitive to load and will engage to "hold" their position with the slightest pressure.

[OutKast]

Hey, I bought a ae spring kit so i dont need to know that anymore...but what weight oil should i start with in the front and rear? thanks.

[sook]

How about follow the instruction manual Outkast, it is a great starting point.:rolleyes:

[wrxdan]

Hey Rookie.... Did you replace the steering break-away spring with a stiffer one? The stock one seems kinda weak, I can see high grip foam tires causing inacurate steering due to this weak spring.

[Pro3/nmt105]

aslot of us replaces the stock servo saver spring with the spring for the gts slipper clutch.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2879

[puma1824]

Originally posted by TopKatz
Sup yall!!!

Just ordered up a NTC3 rear kit. Im going to strip my Rs4-3 of all its equipment (JR electronics, RB x12 3port) and drop that stuff intot eh AE. That will give me a RB powered RFX and NTC3. Im not sure what Im going to do with my Rs4 yet. Ill probaly put the 12rs motor back in with some old equipment so I can let my freinds bash it.

Topkatz

How you like the NTC3? I went back to mine after pouring a ton of cash into my RS4 3 SS. How's the NTC3 compared to your Reflex?

-Puma

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by wrxdan
Hey Rookie.... Did you replace the steering break-away spring with a stiffer one? The stock one seems kinda weak, I can see high grip foam tires causing inacurate steering due to this weak spring.

Yes I did, I can immediately see the different, and can't wait to get the real road test, I also replaced the stock bushing to ball bearings one.....

[Rookie Solara]

Sorry, double post...........

[TopKatz]

puma1824 - I have not got the NTC3 yet. It should be here tomorow, or monday.

Once I get everything built up and dialed Ill let you know what I think. My gut tells me that the NTC3 will make better use of the power then the RFX. I think the clean layout of the NTC3 shaft drive, and the layout of the transmition is realy slick.

[thefuzzclub]

will the 26mm front and 30mm rear foam tires fit on the ntc3 without shaving?

[NTC3NUT]

Yes, the tires will fit. Zero offset in the rear with 30mm, right guys? You may have to trim the rear hub, check to see if the rim makes contact with it where the toe-link attaches. I had this problem with a few brands that I tried last year.

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
You SHOULD NOT have any noise when both servos are on NEUTRAL position (dead center position) cause there should not be any load there....then turn yoru steering to LEFT or RIGHT (all the way), if you can hear noises from both sides, that means your servos are pulling too much (steer too far to left or right)......use the 3PK screen page #1 then option #1, that should be able to trim the FAR LEFT and FAR RIGHT setting....trim them down a little untill the noise are disappear. (do exactly the same to your trottle servo).

I never be able to eliminate all those noise 100%, but you should try to let the servos turn to the RIGHT point, not too far and not too short....btw, I use Futaba analogy servos on my 3PK only. One more advise, the steering part of NTC3 are kinda funky, make sure follow the manual and get the right distance (You have to adjust that servo horn into some degree - like 8 degree or something)......and you cannot use servo saver onto your servo.

Hi Rookie,

I have done what you say and prevented the servo from over travelling the right and left limit. The noise come when it is in the neutral position. I manage to get rid the noise in the throttle servo. But getting rid of the noise at the steering servo is really a challenge. My speculation is that the servo cannot generate the minute torque to return the steering to the "stressless" position. The servo knows that it is slightly off the preset neutral position, but it just cannot adjust itself for that small change.

As for the servo saver, initially I did not mount it to the servo, but later I realise that the servo link is not in a straight line. but in an angle. So I added in the saver. This also give some clearance space for me to accomodate the antenna wire from the reciever. But I have to loosen the screw(the one with a ball end) on the servo arm. If not the 'screw' will hit the chasis. I will continue to explore ways to remove the noise, but in the mean time if you or anyone out there has any suggestion on how to solve the noise issue, please feel free to drop me a line. Thanks.

Wai Leun

[waileun]

Originally posted by cbr74
Digital servos "chatter" it's perfectly normal. They are very sensitive to load and will engage to "hold" their position with the slightest pressure.
Hi cbr74,
Thanks for your reply.

Wai Leun

[thefuzzclub]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Yes, the tires will fit. Zero offset in the rear with 30mm, right guys? You may have to trim the rear hub, check to see if the rim makes contact with it where the toe-link attaches. I had this problem with a few brands that I tried last year.
Thank you NTC3NUT. I remembered you selling a NTC3 way back last year. Anyways thanks again.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Rookie,
As for the servo saver, initially I did not mount it to the servo, but later I realise that the servo link is not in a straight line. but in an angle. So I added in the saver. This also give some clearance space for me to accomodate the antenna wire from the reciever. But I have to loosen the screw(the one with a ball end) on the servo arm. If not the 'screw' will hit the chasis. I will continue to explore ways to remove the noise, but in the mean time if you or anyone out there has any suggestion on how to solve the noise issue, please feel free to drop me a line. Thanks.

Wai Leun

The easiest way to check your servo.....Take the servo out, leave the servo HORN on the servo and listen...In neutral position you should not hear any noise that is unusual......then use your thumb and add a little pressure (while the servo is still in the neutral position) and see you can hear any noise came from the servo due to the stress (like you before when you turn left and right before adjusting the trim)....

And let us know what you hear...

[tallyrc]

anyone out there gonna try the trinity piston and sleeve for their os .12tr? instant turbo motor... just interested to hear what some of you all think.

[SimonFDR]

Where can I get some blue aluminum or Ti arms for my car?

Also where can I get a blue aluminum or Ti Radio tray?

[wrxdan]

One question. The pinion gears are not aligning properly. I understand how to adjuster in & out (gear mesh). But how critical is front to back alignment? My pinion gears cover 2/3s to the spur gears, but it's not a perfect alignment. Is this an issue? I am using AEs aftermarket blue mounts. I can post pics if needed. Thanks!

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
The easiest way to check your servo.....Take the servo out, leave the servo HORN on the servo and listen...In neutral position you should not hear any noise that is unusual......then use your thumb and add a little pressure (while the servo is still in the neutral position) and see you can hear any noise came from the servo due to the stress (like you before when you turn left and right before adjusting the trim)....

And let us know what you hear...

Hi Rookie,

I tried that. When the servo is off the chasis but with the servo horn on, it did not make any noise. A vertical pressure down at the horn also create no noise. But a slight horizontal pressure to the left or right will create the noise that is similar to the noise created when the servo is mounted on the chasis with the linked joined.

Any clue?

Wai Leun

[Distro]

Originally posted by wrxdan
One question. The pinion gears are not aligning properly. I understand how to adjuster in & out (gear mesh). But how critical is front to back alignment? My pinion gears cover 2/3s to the spur gears, but it's not a perfect alignment. Is this an issue? I am using AEs aftermarket blue mounts. I can post pics if needed. Thanks!

Best way to align the gears is to take a peice of paper and put it between the spur and pinion gears, push them together, spin them and lock the screws down. Then take the paper out and it should be a good mesh.

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by Distro
Best way to align the gears is to take a peice of paper and put it between the spur and pinion gears, push them together, spin them and lock the screws down. Then take the paper out and it should be a good mesh.

Nope.. I can get the mesh fine, it's the front to back alignment I am wondering about.

Dan

[tallyrc]

my friend that uses the same mounts has the same alignment problem. it may be a shimming issue.

[waileun]

Hi Guys,

I am just wondering if it is good practice to wash the car after each run. Or should I just dust it?
And, is constant removal of the radio tray from the chasis bad?
For the residual of the fuel inside the AE dual chamber pipe, what is the best way to clean the inside of the pipe?

(Sorry for so many questions, I'm new to RC and is getting really hooked to it)
Wai Leun

[NTC3NUT]

anyone out there gonna try the trinity piston and sleeve for their os .12tr? instant turbo motor... just interested to hear what some of you all think.

Rookie, I think I'm going to get an OS just to try this out. No one at my track races anything but NovaRossi's (myself included), and I would love to see the look on their faces if they got motored by a "stock" OS. Yes, I know it's cheeting, but it's strictly for a little fun at the club level. I was supprised to see Trinity sell it that cheep. I honsestly thought it would be at least the price of the motor, really. I think I'll skip the button and just go for the piston/sleeve/rod combo. If I do I'll let you know how it goes.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by wrxdan
One question. The pinion gears are not aligning properly. I understand how to adjuster in & out (gear mesh). But how critical is front to back alignment? My pinion gears cover 2/3s to the spur gears, but it's not a perfect alignment. Is this an issue? I am using AEs aftermarket blue mounts. I can post pics if needed. Thanks!


same here..I think they are all a little off...when I put mine together last year(I got ythe first one on the shelf),same thing..I called associated and they said as long as 80% is hitting the gear,its OK....I shimmed it up a little better,and left it...no problems,even with a RB turbo 5 port...

the funny part is,I checked my Impulse(with centax),my 5 HPI's,my Kyoshos's,and you know what?...they are all a little off..either at the bell,at the sp gears,etc...

as long as you got 80% of the gears together,try shimming the clutchbell..and go enjoy the car..

[waileun]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Rookie, I think I'm going to get an OS just to try this out. No one at my track races anything but NovaRossi's (myself included), and I would love to see the look on their faces if they got motored by a "stock" OS. Yes, I know it's cheeting, but it's strictly for a little fun at the club level. I was supprised to see Trinity sell it that cheep. I honsestly thought it would be at least the price of the motor, really. I think I'll skip the button and just go for the piston/sleeve/rod combo. If I do I'll let you know how it goes.

Hi NTC3NUT,

yesterday I ran my 12TR Turbo under very rich setting and using the plug that is provided by the engine(Still running in). It can take on any 5 port NovaRossi with no problem. Even those Jp engine. I think this is largely due to the layout of the track.

Wai Leun

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by wrxdan
Nope.. I can get the mesh fine, it's the front to back alignment I am wondering about.

Dan

If you have time, bring your NTC3 over, and I can take a look for you....and I can show you what I did to the shock towers, I just found a better way to re-inforce the tower for less then $5.

I think you might did something wrong on the clutch spacing.....since you CANNOT adjust the engine forward and backward on NTC3.

Let me know.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi NTC3NUT,

yesterday I ran my 12TR Turbo under very rich setting and using the plug that is provided by the engine(Still running in). It can take on any 5 port NovaRossi with no problem. Even those Jp engine. I think this is largely due to the layout of the track.

Wai Leun

OS is a good engine, and the TURBO is their FIRST EVER Turbo engine from OS, and I don't think it will be anything LESS then regular OS.....and about the Nova Rossi and JP engine, well, their engine MUST and WILL be faster then yours, that is the fact, but at least you know, that is base upon the track, small track with TURBO engine, wasting time, any OS CVR are good enough to race.....but track like Ohio IFMAR track (or any track with the size like that).....you will find those high price engine will have the EDGE, but NOT NECESSARY blow you away....at last, it really depends on the driver's setting and his skill......if I need to race someone with LOTS of money but don't even know how to set High/low end needle......all I need is Tamiya Grasshopper to beat him because those NR and JP motors will eat him alive.

[Pro3/nmt105]

rookie anre these the gauges you have?
http://www.sslorder.com/Shop/Images/speedtechrc/imageC22305.jpg
there 60bux and look like yours but I dont see the clear plastic piece that goes above the gauges to adjust toe-in is it included?

[Pro3/nmt105]

oh and it dosnt say it can measure rear camber, can it?

[SimonFDR]

I need some Ti arms....

[cbr74]

Integy at Speedtech (http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/75.html)

[Pro3/nmt105]

i kno speed tech has it thats where i got the pic I was just asking if it could measure rear camber because it dosnt mention it with the list of other things it can do.

[tallyrc]

are you guys talking about running the os .12tr-t, or the os .12tr with the sirio piston and sleeve? i have a standard os 12 tr and was thinking of getting the sirio piston and sleeve.

[fastharry]

yeah..is that sleeve a replacement(upgrade) for the TR...or a replacment for the TR(Turbo)?.....

[Pro3/nmt105]

if they use the same crankcase Id guess it would be for both(i know that the turbo case is black). Its probably designed for the regulat tr though because trinity sells a turbo button also. What really bothers me is how they can sell a tr p/s for 60bux but for a sirio .12 its 90bux, and the tr p/s is 6 port and AAC.

[tallyrc]

you didn't really believe pricing was based on cost did you? it's upply and demand, and nobody else makes a p/s for the serio, but someone does for the os obviously... i hope it is for the standard 12tr, they may use the same case, but the milling i'm sure is different.

[Pro3/nmt105]

yea I know It just bothers me how they do that they made the tr p/s 60bux because its the same price as the regular p/s.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
i kno speed tech has it thats where i got the pic I was just asking if it could measure rear camber because it dosnt mention it with the list of other things it can do.

Yes, the one from speedtech is EXACTLY the same as mine, and I believe it will come with the TOP CLEAR Toe guage along with the rest of the stuff...........and yes, the front and rear guage 99% identicle except the front guages can check the CASTER....since we won' t have REAR caster to measure, and I believed they are trying to say rear CASTER instead of rear camber, if the setup system cannot measure rear camber, that is NOT a setup system.....

Pro3/nmt105...enough question, I think you NEED to buy one now and you can call STEVE and double check with him and make sure that one come with a storage case (mine is $10 cheaper without the case)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
I need some Ti arms....

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/catalog2.cgi?car_id=112&cat=&man=all

I htink they have what you need, only IF you have plenty of money to waste.....

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Yes, the one from speedtech is EXACTLY the same as mine, and I believe it will come with the TOP CLEAR Toe guage along with the rest of the stuff...........and yes, the front and rear guage 99% identicle except the front guages can check the CASTER....since we won' t have REAR caster to measure, and I believed they are trying to say rear CASTER instead of rear camber, if the setup system cannot measure rear camber, that is NOT a setup system.....

Pro3/nmt105...enough question, I think you NEED to buy one now and you can call STEVE and double check with him and make sure that one come with a storage case (mine is $10 cheaper without the case)

I not sure if it is I dont think it comes with one because under it they sell the case for 10bux. So you paid $50? Im planning on getting one in a month or 2 because Its too cold to use my ntc3 now.

[AE#1!]

hey, i dont know if u remeber me but i was ae#1, that account got deleted, so i got this one, so im not really new member, sorrybout that.

[Twist 2 Go]

Hey gang, I disassembled my NTC3 today and spent about 15 minutes in the shop at my drill press and now have a lightweight two-speed one-way hub. Total cost= NOTHING!! I used the LW 2-spd clutch houising as a guide and drilled (9) 11/64" holes in it. Deburred them with a small file and it turned out great.

[kreidel1]

Why dont you post some pics of it?

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by tallyrc
you didn't really believe pricing was based on cost did you? it's upply and demand, and nobody else makes a p/s for the serio, but someone does for the os obviously... i hope it is for the standard 12tr, they may use the same case, but the milling i'm sure is different.

I hope it's for the standard TR also. Heck, I just purchased a second TR used just to use this new piston/sleeve when it comes out.

[Rookie Solara]

Hi all, I woudl like to collect some information from NTC3 owner about the Low speed/High speed Gearing setting suggestion..........here is the deal.

I have 2 tracks planning to go this summer, one is small, lots of turns and required most of the low-end power....the other one, longer and bigger, less turn and WIDE, so top speed is more appreciated.

The stock gears setting are.....(Spur) 54/50 (Pinion) 22/26 (OEM Stock) (4 teeth diff...) CAN someone verify that...? I forgot what exactly they are.........

My small track setting will be (Spur) 54/50 (no change) (Pinion) 21/26 (5 teeth diff)

My large track setting will be (Spur) 54/50 (no change) (Pinion) 22/27 (5 teeth diff)

Can I do that on my PINION gears...? Or I have to change the 1st (or 2nd gear) with the same differences tooth like 21/25 (+4) and 22/26 (+4 again)..?

I think I just want to get some suggestion from those who used something beside the stock gearing.....what are the gearing for small tight technical track and what's that for HIGH speed track...?

Thanks.......

[johnnybp7]

The Six Port AAC Piston and Sleeve will fit either the TR or the TR-T. I e-mail OS and they said that the crankcases for the two TR engines are identical, the only difference is the black colouring on the TR-T crankcase.

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Hi all, I woudl like to collect some information from NTC3 owner about the Low speed/High speed Gearing setting suggestion..........here is the deal.

I have 2 tracks planning to go this summer, one is small, lots of turns and required most of the low-end power....the other one, longer and bigger, less turn and WIDE, so top speed is more appreciated.

The stock gears setting are.....(Spur) 54/50 (Pinion) 22/26 (OEM Stock) (4 teeth diff...) CAN someone verify that...? I forgot what exactly they are.........

My small track setting will be (Spur) 54/50 (no change) (Pinion) 21/26 (5 teeth diff)

My large track setting will be (Spur) 54/50 (no change) (Pinion) 22/27 (5 teeth diff)

Can I do that on my PINION gears...? Or I have to change the 1st (or 2nd gear) with the same differences tooth like 21/25 (+4) and 22/26 (+4 again)..?

I think I just want to get some suggestion from those who used something beside the stock gearing.....what are the gearing for small tight technical track and what's that for HIGH speed track...?

Thanks.......


Hi Rookie,

I hope the following will be useful to you:

(54 divided by 20) x 2.5 =6.75(Fast acceleration, lowest top spd)
(54 divided by 21) x 2.5 =6.43(next fastest acceleration)
(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(next fastest acceleration, more top speed)

Wai Leun

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Rookie,

I hope the following will be useful to you:

(54 divided by 20) x 2.5 =6.75(Fast acceleration, lowest top spd)
(54 divided by 21) x 2.5 =6.43(next fastest acceleration)
(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(next fastest acceleration, more top speed)

Wai Leun

Thanks, but I think I was misleading you, I don't have problem to figure out which one got the best low-end power and which one got the best top-speed, I am more concern about the ACTUAL gears on the pinions and spurs that ppl use......

Especially I am changing the amount of gears differences from 4 teeth to 5 teeth difference.....I am not sure that is OK to do so...? (you know, that means my 2nd gears MESH might be bery tight and my 1st gear mesh might just OK).

And on top of that, I have to disagree your theroy about that calcaulation.......I think they should be explain this way...

(54 divided by 20) x 2.5 =6.75(Fastest and strongest acceleration, lowest top spd)
(54 divided by 21) x 2.5 =6.43(A little slower then 20 and less power then 20 acceleration, faster top spd then 20)
(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(The weakest and Slowest acceleration, Fastest top speed)

Also, if "(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(next fastest acceleration, more top speed)" got the best acceleration and best top speed, no one will use anything less then 22 tooth on spur gear then.

Correct me if I am wrong...........or you can imagine you are riding a 18 speeds mountain bike on a mountain....

[Rookie Solara]

The original Serpent GTP butterfly rear downforce system on NTC3.........the concept is very CLOSE, but of course, the construction is far from close, what he did was mounted 2 Serpent GTP body post w/body leveler (Serpent parts # 808143) in front of the rear toe linkages nuts position (he drillled 2 more holes which I think that will weaken the rear uprights by A LOT) the rear toe linkage........the concept is the DOWNFORCE created by the LOLA body will directly transferred to the rear WHEELS (just like the butterfly kits from Serpent chassis)

NTC3 cannot use the same concept because of their rear upright are totally different then the 705/V1RR.....etc, but this is the closest that you can do if you do have a GTP/Lola body and want to take advantage of the hugh rear downforce....

http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/races/2002_photos/2002_39e_JavierHernandez.jpg

http://www.mytsn.com/products/glrimage.aspi?prid=339&imid=16451

[wrxdan]

Dumb question Howard, but how does the rear suspension stay independent when tied to the body. And how is this an advantage over higher spring rates and thicker shock oil?

Do you think RCs with ever use the underside of the chassis to produce downforce? Much like F1 cars do?

[Rookie Solara]

Too bad you guys cannot read chinese and japanese, I got a forum oversea that have plenty of thread regarding Barry Baker's international race in HK in 2002, and ONE of the topic is the NTC3 chassis........I can tell you this, this NTC3 chassis is actually one of the most important reason why NTC3 are so easy to drive and so stable in corner......(on the other hand, that HARDCORD open chassis just killed the most important part of the NTC3 chassis)

Yes, Wrxdan, you are correct, the rear will no longer be INDEPENDENT suspension, and that's why I said the construction of the above setting are FAR DIFFERENT (less engineered) then the real Serpent/Kyosho GTP butterfly system (you can see that on V1RR or Serpent Impact), because THAT ONE will not eliminate the rear ind. suspension geometry and travel.

But the travel of the rear suspension (esp. on NTC3) is like 5-6mm the most.......your rear sway bar probably killed the idea of Independent suspension already....and the idea of this is convert the FREE AIR into some useable force that can create trackion, and the PART of the idea of independent suspension is actually for the RIDE Comfort, RC car does not need ride comfort, but need a lot of trackion, I don't think you will find yourself COMFY to ride one of those NASCAR in Daytona, right...?

The theory of this design is by using the Lola body, the wind will PUSH the rear of the Lola body down and create downforce, then it will transfer the force to the body posts and directly forwarded to the rear 2 wheels instead of the rear shock tower (If so, then you will ended up slamming).....With the help of downforce to the rear wheels, rear trackion will be increase, and that works very well on Serpent Impulse/Kyosho V1RR and MTX3.........not to mention that is a MUST for 1/10 235mm and 1/8 on-road racer that required hugh amount of downforce at rear.

One more disadvantage of this setting is rear tires usually got shaved much faster (esp. foams).

Unlike F1, RC car does not have a complete enclosed chassis, and I believed downforce is generated from ABOVE, not below chassi, the FIN you see from the F1 are CHANNELS, to channel and stablized all the force THRU undersize of the body AS FAST AS POSSIBLE.......without the right calculation and engineering, the wind/force below will ended up working AGAINST you, from going thru to work UPWARD, ended up to be UP-FORCE. The thing is, you want the wind/force below your chassis PASS THRU the chassis as fast and as much as possible......do you still remember 5-6 years ago LeMan - team Mercedes had forced to call off their team by finishing the race because 2 out of the 3 CLK got flip in high speed at the PEAK of the track.....? They found out their OVER ENGINEERED chassis and FINS actually converted the under body force to the UP FORCE, and their CLK ended up flipping like a airplant........

[Twist 2 Go]

Originally posted by kreidel1
Why dont you post some pics of it?

Here is the Associated part I modeled it after. Very easy to do.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBMJ7&P=7

[fuse01]

Rookie Solara


i have actually tried a lola with the body post mod done to the rear hubs to support the cover.


i found that i needed a harder spring in the rear or i will understeer..

as for gearing, try to fit 4 tooth split with 4 tooth gearing for the best fit, anthing else might end up a strip gear.

for a big high flowing track i like the 21/27 54/48 combo. for tight tracks i run stock gearing ( 5 port engine)

for my sirio 3 port ( very bad low end...) small tracks i run 20/24 54/50 -- all on a 3 shoe clutch and stiff spring.

the only issue i had with the car is tail throwing during powered exit turns.. is there any way top solve this?

[RacerM]

Hi,

I am currently building my NTC-3 and have a question about the battery.

What type of batteries do you guys normally use?

I have a AAA sized packs and the normal straight packs. I am not sure which one to use.

This is mainly due to the balance of the chassis and the weight.

All the new cars(705 and MTX-3) uses smaller ones, so I am just wondering which one I should use.

Will the chassis balance be off totally if I used AAA sized ones?

Anyone with experience with smaller batteries in their NTC-3?

[jscamry]

Hey all i have a Ntc3 and love it!! I currently have an Os cvr in it and and i have rebuilt the engine a number of times(i have had the engine since it was relased in earlier 99 or 01), now i think that I would benifit from a newer engine(rear exhaust,slide carb). I an looking into the Orion .12 wasp roar legal, trinity sirio standard .12 and the Os cvr(Since they are reliable, i have owned many os engines, so i kina want to try something else)

Any thouhts??

Thanks Jason

[tallyrc]

i guess i am terribly confused as to this whole crazy suspension thing when it comes to lola bodies. regardless of how or where the body is attached, any downforce created by a wing or body is ultimately transfered to the wheels regardless of where the wing or body attaches. it's like putting lead in the car and thinking because it's not in the rims, it's not wheighting them down right? this is not like a sprung and unsprung weight issue is it? that affects the reflexivity of the suspension... can someone explain as to why there is so much intricacty in mounting them and why don't we have fancy mounts for all wings that tie them directly or indirectly to the arms?

[tallyrc]

contender, please let us all know that sleeve works out for ya. i am very interested...

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Thanks, but I think I was misleading you, I don't have problem to figure out which one got the best low-end power and which one got the best top-speed, I am more concern about the ACTUAL gears on the pinions and spurs that ppl use......

Especially I am changing the amount of gears differences from 4 teeth to 5 teeth difference.....I am not sure that is OK to do so...? (you know, that means my 2nd gears MESH might be bery tight and my 1st gear mesh might just OK).

And on top of that, I have to disagree your theroy about that calcaulation.......I think they should be explain this way...

(54 divided by 20) x 2.5 =6.75(Fastest and strongest acceleration, lowest top spd)
(54 divided by 21) x 2.5 =6.43(A little slower then 20 and less power then 20 acceleration, faster top spd then 20)
(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(The weakest and Slowest acceleration, Fastest top speed)

Also, if "(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 =6.14(next fastest acceleration, more top speed)" got the best acceleration and best top speed, no one will use anything less then 22 tooth on spur gear then.

Correct me if I am wrong...........or you can imagine you are riding a 18 speeds mountain bike on a mountain....

Hi Rookie,

It was written in relative sense. What it was suppose to mean was that if you don't have a <20>, the next fast you can get is the <21> and if you can't get that, the next fastest <22>. All in relative sense. Of course the easier way to understand is the way you have described.

by the way, the way you have explain the downward force of the wind on the body was interesting.

Wai Leun

[C0NTENDER]

Originally posted by tallyrc
contender, please let us all know that sleeve works out for ya. i am very interested...

The same day that tower gets them in stock, will be the same day that I order one, so I will let you know.

[Rookie Solara]

I was planning to get the light weight 2-speed housing for my NTC3 cause I just found out my stock housing, one of the screw was stripped........but then I found out AE discontinued this "1701 NTC3 FT Light Weight Two-speed Clutch Housing - DISCONTINUED "

I emailed AE and they said their team drivers experienced major gears chipping problems on the light weight housing (that explain why ppl stripping their gears)

Their answer is because they shaved too much metal off the housing and cause one or more screws that mounted from the 2nd gear onto the housing getting loose, then rub the first spur gear and start wobbling, then strip with the pinion gears......

Their solution is.......use the stock housing.

I think that make sense, however, what do you guys think...?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by fuse01
Rookie Solara
I have actually tried a lola with the body post mod done to the rear hubs to support the cover.
i found that i needed a harder spring in the rear or i will understeer..
as for gearing, try to fit 4 tooth split with 4 tooth gearing for the best fit, anthing else might end up a strip gear.
for a big high flowing track i like the 21/27 54/48 combo. for tight tracks i run stock gearing ( 5 port engine)
for my sirio 3 port ( very bad low end...) small tracks i run 20/24 54/50 -- all on a 3 shoe clutch and stiff spring.
the only issue i had with the car is tail throwing during powered exit turns.. is there any way top solve this?

Fues01, that make perfect sense.......with the help of the LOLA and the butterfly system, more then enough trackion should be generated to your rear wheels..........however, that has nothing to do with the springs cause (like the Serpent and V1RR setup) your downforce were transfer directly between these 2 items - LOLA body to REAR wheel hubs..........The only time it will transfer to the shock/springs is when you have your body posts mounted on the SHOCK TOWERS........then the downforce from the LOLA will forwarded to the shock towers, then to the shocks, and to the hubs, and to the wheels.

So your UNDER steering problem is not necessary caused by the REAR, is at the front, try lower the shore on your front foam compound, use 40 or 35 oils, 3 holes damper,sway bar stay flat, and softer springs (Red or below).....but of course, your way to do it is also a solution, but you just eliminated the whole idea of using LOLA body, you are not taking advantage of the body.

The LOLA body with body posts on hubs gave you the extra trackion that you need by using downforces from the body, your front understeering is something absolutely normal (that means the LOLA and the system works @ rear). The solution is INCREASE trackion in the front, and that way you can take full advantage of the LOLA and have a great controlled car. But if you change the springs (harder springs) at rear just to decrease the trackion of the rear and make the front gaining trackion, then why use LOLA body to increase rear trackion at the beginning?

Again, I am worrying myself saying too much before actually doing it, and I would love to hear other ppl's opinion.........

One thing I realized yesterday about this idea is.........my rear CAMBER is set at 3 degree....that means the body post will have a camber of 3 degree pointing thru the body, that doesn't make much sense at all...........

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by tallyrc
any downforce created by a wing or body is ultimately transfered to the wheels regardless of where the wing or body attaches.

Yes, of course, at the end of the journey, everything will ended up to the TIRES, because they are the only item that has full contact on the track..........but the different between this system versus the body post on shock towers system is the STEPS of transfer in between.

Typical setting (OEM NTC3 rear setting) - body->body posts->shock tower->shock/springs->suspension arms->rear hubs->rim/tires.

Serpent/V1RR/Butterfly system on NTC3 - body->body posts->rear hubs->rim/tires.

There are at least 3 items(steps) skipped..........that means downforce can be transfer much faster and much more by using Butterfly system then the traditional system. Not to mention, if you look at the typical setting path, one of the item is shock/springs when the SHOCK and springs are under pressure, guess where are they going.........? They are going DOWN, that means it will bring the rear part of the chassis alone with the tires toward the ground. It is true that is also trackion, but rubbing chassis to the ground to create MORE trackion is the last thing you want to do (but believe it or not, Serpent team driver Micheal Salvon actually used the rear chassis rubbing the track methrod to create trackion, but of course, that is just one of the reason why Serpent discontinued Veteq as well).

I think I saw a article from RCTek.com pertaining to this topic....can someone verify that...?

Also, NTC3 cannot have this fancy butterfly system cause the rear hubs of NTC3 are not pointing upward like 705, MTX3 and V1RR, and this system won't work unless NTC3 redesign the rear hubs, WHICH I don't think is necessary (cause one of the reason I like NTC3 is their front steering knuckles are exactly the same as the rear hubs.......much cheaper to replace them)

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I emailed AE and they said their team drivers experienced major gears chipping problems on the light weight housing (that explain why ppl stripping their gears)


Dang! Well we will see how long my spurs last. I already installed the lightweight 2 speed. The lightweight 2 speed does feel flimsy.

Howard, I may have to make my way to your place sometime. I haven't had much time to look into my mis-aligned gears. I thought of shimming out the bell, but didn't know how far I could shim before losing clutch grip. I would say I need 1/8 of an inch to have full engagement. I also want to show how I hopefully added strength to the shock towers.

[Rookie Solara]

Dan......give me a call first before you swing by, may be this SAT or something....I looked at my car last night and realized the SAME thing, the gears are NOT 100% meshed with the spurs (like 90% only), but like the rest of us here, I don't think that is the problem because I have been driving this NTC3 for at least 5 races last year with the same setting including one 2.4 endurence race........no gear stripping, except I found out last week one of the 2nd speed spur gears screw on the housing was stripped and the screw was loosen up far enough to rub the FIRST spur gear causing the 2nd spur gear wobbling and got some rubbing noise (I was worrying where was that noise came from) - but that has nothing to do about gear meshing.

About your light weight 2-speed - use it, I think it should be OK, but you must do this..........add LOCK TIGHT onto that 3 screws area immediately, as long as one of the screw get loose, it will damage the housing (including the damaging the 1st spur gear)

I will show you the more improved way to do "THE FAX", basicly, it is "THE FAX" but it is a little bit different then your epoxy lock nut version........

[Twist 2 Go]

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I emailed AE and they said their team drivers experienced major gears chipping problems on the light weight housing (that explain why ppl stripping their gears)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I thought the only gear sthat were being stripped were the diff gears. I have almost a gallon of fuel through mine since I added the LW 2 spd housing and haven't had any problem. Maybe if you change gears alot they might strip. Only gear problem I have had is very tiny rocks get caught in the teeth of the spur gear and messes up the spur gear and pinion gear.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I was planning to get the light weight 2-speed housing for my NTC3 cause I just found out my stock housing, one of the screw was stripped........but then I found out AE discontinued this "1701 NTC3 FT Light Weight Two-speed Clutch Housing - DISCONTINUED "

I emailed AE and they said their team drivers experienced major gears chipping problems on the light weight housing (that explain why ppl stripping their gears)

Their answer is because they shaved too much metal off the housing and cause one or more screws that mounted from the 2nd gear onto the housing getting loose, then rub the first spur gear and start wobbling, then strip with the pinion gears......

Their solution is.......use the stock housing.

I think that make sense, however, what do you guys think...? That sux I bought one of those and havent used it yet. mabey ill give it a try and see what it does.

[nad138]

Hey guys, a newb here.

Got a question I hope you guys could give input to. I got my front/rear on a 2deg. camber angle and a toe in (rear) 2deg. Whenever I gun for the trigger during the backstraight, it seems
to steer itself on the left during acceleration. I'm running on my hobbyshop's track and using a new set of medialpro (IAS) tires. Any ideas why this happens ? Thanks.

[thefuzzclub]

Planning to buy a new engine for my ntc3. Choosing between OS 12TR and novamega 3p. Please advise recommendations. I plan to race and our track is technical with less straights.

[Way2Fast]

Originally posted by nad138
Hey guys, a newb here.

Got a question I hope you guys could give input to. I got my front/rear on a 2deg. camber angle and a toe in (rear) 2deg. Whenever I gun for the trigger during the backstraight, it seems
to steer itself on the left during acceleration. I'm running on my hobbyshop's track and using a new set of medialpro (IAS) tires. Any ideas why this happens ? Thanks.

Can you see your wheels turn left if you lift up the car and gun it for a sec?

[show2ime]

Both are good engines, But I would go with the novamega. The OS is getting some good reviews though. You can't go worng with the nova though. It's reputation is rock solid. And we all know how nova based engines last as far as durability and screaming speed.

[nad138]

Originally posted by Way2Fast
Can you see your wheels turn left if you lift up the car and gun it for a sec?

On my old tires, I saw that it was wobbling a bit (Factory didn't do a good job gluing it) which I thought was the problem. After 1 of my rims broke, changed all of them. I did that what you suggested prior to running and it seems to be ok. But it still does it. My buddy said that it might be the uneven weight at the rear that's causing the right rear tire to have more traction thereby pushing it slightly to the left when accelerating.

[waileun]

Originally posted by nad138
On my old tires, I saw that it was wobbling a bit (Factory didn't do a good job gluing it) which I thought was the problem. After 1 of my rims broke, changed all of them. I did that what you suggested prior to running and it seems to be ok. But it still does it. My buddy said that it might be the uneven weight at the rear that's causing the right rear tire to have more traction thereby pushing it slightly to the left when accelerating.

If that's the case, have you tried using the tweak board to check if the car is pressing more on the rear right?

Wai Leun
PS: Just a suggestion.

[Pro3/nmt105]

sounds like your diffs need adjusting look at the chart in the manual

[thefuzzclub]

Originally posted by show2ime
Both are good engines, But I would go with the novamega. The OS is getting some good reviews though. You can't go worng with the nova though. It's reputation is rock solid. And we all know how nova based engines last as far as durability and screaming speed.
Hello show2ime,
thanks for the advice, i'm also geared on getting the novamega. by the way, i read your posts in the schumacher fusion thread, more power to you bro.

[pilothyer]

I am about to switch to foams on my NTC3. I have decided to try JACO NITRO SHOES. On the rear I have the option of either getting 30 mm with or without the offset.......Will the ones without the off set fit the NTC3 without modification? Also which width (maximum) would I use for the front without modification? If there is anyone using them that could answer my questions or add any other comments I would most appreciate it ......

[show2ime]

Np man. They were ticking me off on the fusion thread, lol

[fuse01]

anyone tried the ntc3 one way?

does it still strip gears?


what is the part number?


thanks

[fastharry]

I have the new one way....Its WAy beefier than the old one....Its still cold in NJ..so I haven't tried it yet...BUT the gear has HD handwritten on ythe back...and is a differnnet size than the old gear..

[wrxdan]

Has anyone mounted a HPI Nissan Silvia GT body on their NTC3? I have a HPI WRX body that doesn't fit well so I hope it's not all HPI bodies. HPI bodies look gooood, to bad there weak.

[tOrcHed Lh]

I've never ran an HPI body.... but how could they be so much weaker than other brands such as protoform or proline? both use .030" thick lexan....

[Striker]

I use a HPI Porsche GT3 body on my NTC3. It's not bad. All of their bodies are about 1/4" shorter then the protoform and I think the proline. I just take my time mounting it and not following most of the "cut here" lines.

[tOrcHed Lh]

i'm looking into lola bodies... what manufacturer's is the most durable? or who even makes them besides Kawahara and Yokomo?

[xardjetx]

hey wrx your not talking about a rally wrx bod right?? cuz thats what im using right now and it fits perfectly. i cut those on the side front bumper cuz my bumper from the stock tc3 didnt fit but then it soon broke so i bought a rpm one and now i dndt have to cut it out at all! but as you can see the back posts are teeny and i only have space for 1. so the front poles cut out the reg. place that they tell you to and the back do as i did. but you might wnat to cut the holes a little more to the left.

[xardjetx]

2

[xardjetx]

last one. hey i also got a question. i was wondering what are you factory team edition tc3 ppl running? as in which engine? i got a os 12tr and i have to say its been running great. high rpms and NEVER stalled. only when i ran out of fuel lol.

[xardjetx]

sorry bout that you can disregard my last question imma noob to this forum. haha i just checked and like a bunch of pages are talking about the 12tr okie dok.

[nhearnest]

I believe serpent has made a 200 mm lola body. I currently have the Yokomo GTP body on my ntc3 and it fits great and has nice downforce.

[TopKatz]

I sort of in a holding pattern in my kit build up (waiting on a package from HardcoreRacing ). In the mean time I noticed on this site:

http://www.deleos.com/NTC3/NTC3_Tips.htm

that he sugest using this spring in the stearing rack/ servo saver:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2879

is this the way to go?

[NTC3NUT]

pilothyer,
Use the 30mm rears with the zero offset, up front I think they're 26 or 28mm. I ran 45 shore fronts & 40 shore rears last season, really good tires.

[tOrcHed Lh]

nhearnest,
yea i already have a yokomo GTP body however I found that i had to cut out the windows to get proper airflow to the engine head. So i wanted a lola that doesnt' require me to do so and would also make it easier accessing things such as the fuel tank.
which do is most the durable lola body?

topkatz,
yea that rc10gt slipper clutch spring IS the way to go. it replaces the servo saver spring and gets rid of the steering play.

[TopKatz]

nice! thanks!

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by TopKatz
I sort of in a holding pattern in my kit build up (waiting on a package from HardcoreRacing ). In the mean time I noticed on this site:

http://www.deleos.com/NTC3/NTC3_Tips.htm

that he sugest using this spring in the stearing rack/ servo saver:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2879

is this the way to go?

i second the use of that spring being used on the steering rack.

out of curiosity what hardcore components are you getting.... im doing a hardcore racing ntc3 ground up project myself.

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by tOrcHed Lh
topkatz,
yea that rc10gt slipper clutch spring IS the way to go. it replaces the servo saver spring and gets rid of the steering play.

I never thought about my servo gears. I'm using a Futaba S9304 for steering, I think it has plastic gears?? How easy is it to strip out the servo gears when using the slipper clutch spring?

[waileun]

Originally posted by KronicRacer
i second the use of that spring being used on the steering rack.

out of curiosity what hardcore components are you getting.... im doing a hardcore racing ntc3 ground up project myself.

By the way, what is the purpose of using the spring?

[TopKatz]

Kronic - I basicaly got all of the drivetrain stuff. Center Bulk, brake block, brake disk, front cup, and motor mounts.

wailen - its to tighten p the servo saver so that high performance servos dont waste there power on engaging the servo saver. This way all the power gos to turning the wheels

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by wrxdan
I never thought about my servo gears. I'm using a Futaba S9304 for steering, I think it has plastic gears?? How easy is it to strip out the servo gears when using the slipper clutch spring?

If your servo gears stripped, that is NOT the servo problem.....I've got the slipper springs on and you SHOULD set the Far left/right steering margin from your RADIO correctly in order for your servo to reach the "JUST RIGHT" distance.....you don't want the servo push too FAR OFF and that will stripped those gear....again, that slipper spring is actually reduced the PLAY of the softer springs, but on the other hand, it reduced the fuction of the SERVO SAVER, it is no longer saving your servo, so proper setting must required.

I think I got the S9303 on my Impact and now ntc3, never gave me a problem....

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
If your servo gears stripped, that is NOT the servo problem.....I've got the slipper springs on and you SHOULD set the Far left/right steering margin from your RADIO correctly in order for your servo to reach the "JUST RIGHT" distance.....you don't want the servo push too FAR OFF and that will stripped those gear....again, that slipper spring is actually reduced the PLAY of the softer springs, but on the other hand, it reduced the fuction of the SERVO SAVER, it is no longer saving your servo, so proper setting must required.

I think I got the S9303 on my Impact and now ntc3, never gave me a problem....

Thanks Howard. I have the endpoints set on the servo. But it will strip out easier in a wreck becuase of the stiffer saver action. Note to self: wreck into the boards nose first:)

[Guld]

Originally posted by wrxdan
Has anyone mounted a HPI Nissan Silvia GT body on their NTC3? I have a HPI WRX body that doesn't fit well so I hope it's not all HPI bodies. HPI bodies look gooood, to bad there weak.

200mm HPI bodies fit the NTC3 just fine. Right now, I'm using an HPI M5 body on my car (enclosed). The default wheelbase is a couple of mm shorter than our car, but it is very hard to notice and do not represent any type of obstruction for the suspension. On the issue of durability, I've found that these bodies are less durable than, for example, my Protoform 350Z. It's a beautiful and detailed body nonetheless.

http://home.att.net/~srodrigu72/wsb/media/152032/site1013.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

Dan, yeah, if you are counting the accident on the gear issue, then only GODS know..........so better stay away from those board.

Regarding bodies, I am second on the Protoform bodies......and I will never good back to HPI unless I need something for show only, Protoform are much stronger in race and I have no idea why but there bodies last a little longer then HPI, the easiest way to find that out is the front wheel area, the area just above the front wheels, that can tell the body is good or not.

Just told some pics about my NTC3, did the pipe thing and the "THE FIX" thing, and I got one shock tower just for LOLA body, I try not to say much cause I think I am sick now...later.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003734.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003735.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003736.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003737.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003738.JPG

[Rookie Solara]

Well, I got a feeling that 2 extra screws does help to prevent the shock towers get popped off.........make sure you add THREAD LOCK onto all 5 of those screws.

Here are the spec.

(4) 4-40 by 1.5" long screws......less then $1.00
(1) Aluminum or brass tube.......I think it is 3/16".....$.50
(4) Blue (or red or whatever color that you want, I am ALL SHOW and NO GO) washer - $6.99 per 12, or you can just use regular washer.....$0.20.

You have to use dremel to shave a little (just a little) of the material off the shock tower in order to slide the tubing inside, then you can cut off the tube and sand the top edge flat.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/thefix/P0003744.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

wrxdan Regarding the gear mesh, you can compare yours to mine and see is there any difference....after reading your post and I realized that mine is not 100% covered with the spur gears, but like AE said, as long as we'be got more then 80%, that should be fine.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/ntc3/pipe/P0003740.JPG

[wrxdan]

I swear Rookie, you car changes everytime I see it:) Where are you allowed to run the LOLA body?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by wrxdan
I swear Rookie, you car changes everytime I see it:) Where are you allowed to run the LOLA body?

Yupe.......that is called "OFF SEASON" or called "WINTER" or "SNOW", when you are locked in the basement and got nothiing to do beside watching Jerry Springers show, playing around the car and take pictures is the only thing left that you can do.

Only thing I haven't do.........WAX and detailing the whole NTC3.

There are no rules against the LOLA body (at least there are NONE from HTOP, Tinley, Venture and AJ here).........however, you cannot use LOLA in national (only approved 200mm TOURING CAR aka 4-doors body allow...).........NTC3 need some modificaiton in order to fit LOLA, and only if necessary, I don't really like the layout of NTC3 with LOLA cause I have to punch too many opening on the LEFT SIDE of the car and none on the right...

BTW, I got my LOLA from Towers thru special discount, ended up cost me like $10.50 only....what a deal.

[Drive4fun]

Hey all sup?!
Ok well im getting a tc3 but im not sure which should i get the kit or the rtr? im kinda short on budget i mean real short like $400-450 max for now. Im getting it during the summer so what should i get the rtr or the kit i dont think ill have enough money to buy everything i need for the kit with only 400-450 hehe.. ok well im prolly going to start off with the rtr. Im a newbie at nitro and i need to know everything on what to do and what to expect and how to prevent! what are the major problems what should i do to see if everything is ok on my car? A list of things i will need if i want to start racing my car competetive things like what do i need to start racing expect new motor and radio gear like the parts that would normaly brake etc aight thx guys please provide me with a list of what things are good and worth buying for the tc3 nitro..!! k thx guys later

[tOrcHed Lh]

rookie solara,
what brand lola are you running and how is it working out?

did you have to cut holesout for the tips of the shock tower so the body could mount properly? or did you melt the area around the shock towers?

and lastly, what parts/mods were required to mount those body posts on top of the bumper like you showed in the pics?

thanks

[NTC3NUT]

rookie, Nice job with the extra screws on the radio plate to keep your reciever pack in position. I've been using 2 zip ties, one in the normal position, and one around the tray to keep the battery pack from sliding out. Now I know what to do with all these extra titanium screws!

[Pro3/nmt105]

Rookie did u get the parts online? if so what site an could you give me links.(for the fix)

Thanks

[us_matrix]

Hi Rookie,

I want to do the fix too. Where did you get the blue/purple washer? All we need just 2 pieces 4-40 1.5" screws and brass tube for each case?

[us_matrix]

Is this the same size of your BRASS TUBE?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXR829&P=7

[penggoy]

Rookie

Can u pls tell me how did u do to put the pressure nipple on ur pipe? Does it affect ur car's performance?

[wrxdan]

Here is a pic of my gear mesh. I guess it looks okay?

[wrxdan]

Here is a pic of my fubared WRX body:(

[xardjetx]

omg im soo sorry dan i think i mislead you there. i you have to mod the front. sorry man real sorry...:(

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Dan, yeah, if you are counting the accident on the gear issue, then only GODS know..........so better stay away from those board.

Regarding bodies, I am second on the Protoform bodies......and I will never good back to HPI unless I need something for show only, Protoform are much stronger in race and I have no idea why but there bodies last a little longer then HPI, the easiest way to find that out is the front wheel area, the area just above the front wheels, that can tell the body is good or not.

Just told some pics about my NTC3, did the pipe thing and the "THE FIX" thing, and I got one shock tower just for LOLA body, I try not to say much cause I think I am sick now...later.



Hey Rookie,

your NTC3 looks very clean. Is it brand new? If not, you have really maintained it very well.

[TopKatz]

wrxdan - your first gear mesh does not look good. Looks like your motor is not strait...

[wrxdan]

Originally posted by TopKatz
wrxdan - your first gear mesh does not look good. Looks like your motor is not strait...

Oh I should explain. I took that pic using my dig video cam. It tends to distort the pic. The engine is as straight as I can get it.

Thanks

[TopKatz]

It just looks like the first gear is not "square" to the 2speed gear. I would make sure that the mesh is fairly tight, and that there is not to much play in it.

[Rookie Solara]

wrxdan - yeah, I think you are very close, but something just not quite right, when you swing by, I can do a quick check for you, but DEFINTIELY not today or tomorrow.......6" of snow is not fun to drive your AWD WRX turbo LOL.

OK.....for those of you want to mount LOLA on NTC3, please take a look at my first and third pics about the shock tower, I shaved most of the mounting points on the tower except the last one (use dremel of course), because I think that is the best for LOLA and that is the LOWEST mount point that I can use to mount LOLA without punching 2 holes on the body......no, I am not planning to punch 2 holes on my new body...and no melting.

tOrcHed Lh - I have no idea what parts are those front body post, just some aluminum POS that looks good, but work like the OEM plastic.....eye candy.

NTC3NUT - thats why I am here....sharing my idea to the fellow NTC3 racer.......I think 2 eye candy screws look much better then another zip-ties accross the battery, don't you think..? It is not x'mas gift wrapping, so better be fancy and professional - another eye candy item.

Pro3/nmt105 - NO.....those parts are from my LHS, you can find a full 12" long rod for only 50 cents, and you can split that with your buddies NTC cause all you need is like 6". You can find those 4-40 x 1.5" long screws in any LHS, about those eye candy washer......you don't really need that, but if you guys have problem finding them, I can get them for $6.99 plus shipping for like 12 or 14 each bag.......definitely good enough to cover the entire NTC3....color are blue, silver, red, purple, gold and something else........let me know ONLY if you really really need those eye candy, I don't really want to send something that small.......

us_matrix - yes, (2) 4-40 screws, (2) 5/16" rod and 2 washer on EACH case, total are like $5.00 or less....see above for those blue washers.

penggoy - well, hold on for this MOD, if you know NTC3NUT, he took quite a few pics from Team AE pit pertaining to the WORLD FINAL at OHIO last September, some of the drivers relocate the pressure relief to the upper FRONT part of the pipe, and they claimed that get give more consistant of fuel transferring and idleing......but NO performance gain (like better high or low-end speed)........I did it because I want to add the pressure nipple for security issue, so I might as well try this new setting......since I have to punch new opening and close old opening....I use drill, and of course, JB-Weld to mount the new pressure elbow nipple....but like I said, I think the different is very minimal compare to the stock setting, if you are not handy enough of using JB weld or drilling holes, don't do it, cause each pipe is almost $50.

waileun - I brought my NTC3 used from someone, it was a side exhuast kit, and raced that 5 races and (1) 2.4 hour endurence race.....broke lots of parts before, so it is no new kits, but personally, I am a CLEAN FREAK, I brush my car after every heat and race, and open up everything and clean after every race day..........and don't forget, we have WINTER break, that is the real cleaing about, if I want to, I can clean and wax every single screw and nuts on the NTC3....actually, I cleaned my NTC3 2 times already in this winter even though I didn't even start the engine on this car in this winter period....just got nothing better to do beside cleaning.

If I can answer any question, please let me know.......

[spenzalii]

Any question?
Why is the sky Blue?
Why is Water wet?

Ok seriously. I'be been following this thread pretty much from page 45 or so, in the hopes of gleaning all I could about this car if (when) I get one. The one thing I haven't quite figured out yet is, what is the 'fix' for? I see what you used, and instructions are burried somewhere in the thread, but the reason for it has escaped me. Call me slow, just not late for dinner.:rolleyes:

And by the looks of it, if I got the aluminum cases from RD Logics, I wouldn't need the 'fix', for whatever reason that is. And is that what Ofna was making a dig at in their ad for the LD3?

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara

waileun - I brought my NTC3 used from someone, it was a side exhuast kit, and raced that 5 races and (1) 2.4 hour endurence race.....broke lots of parts before, so it is no new kits, but personally, I am a CLEAN FREAK, I brush my car after every heat and race, and open up everything and clean after every race day..........and don't forget, we have WINTER break, that is the real cleaing about, if I want to, I can clean and wax every single screw and nuts on the NTC3....actually, I cleaned my NTC3 2 times already in this winter even though I didn't even start the engine on this car in this winter period....just got nothing better to do beside cleaning.

If I can answer any question, please let me know....... [/B]

Since you strip your car apart very often, isn't there an increase risk to strip the threading of the screw hole? Someone has advice me not do so, but like you, I like a clean car. But I'm just afraid to spoil the parts if I take them apart too often. What do you think?

[nad138]

Originally posted by waileun
Since you strip your car apart very often, isn't there an increase risk to strip the threading of the screw hole? Someone has advice me not do so, but like you, I like a clean car. But I'm just afraid to spoil the parts if I take them apart too often. What do you think?

I've noticed this when I was taking off my hub carrier alot when setting my rear diffs. The force I needed to drive the screw back on was much more compared to now. What's a good thread locking solution for a non-metal-to-metal without permanently locking it together ?

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by waileun
Since you strip your car apart very often, isn't there an increase risk to strip the threading of the screw hole? Someone has advice me not do so, but like you, I like a clean car. But I'm just afraid to spoil the parts if I take them apart too often. What do you think?

its all about the finess on how you screw the allens in. also its the quality of your tools.

spenzalii

the fix.... it is what it is.. an alternative to the rd logics parts . its a cheaper and lighter solution to implement the fix than it is to use the rd logic cases which are heavier, but stonger. damn catch 22's:D

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by waileun
Since you strip your car apart very often, isn't there an increase risk to strip the threading of the screw hole? Someone has advice me not do so, but like you, I like a clean car. But I'm just afraid to spoil the parts if I take them apart too often. What do you think?

THREAD LOCK.

[Rookie Solara]

That is the LOLA body I've got, the cheapest LOLA I have ever seen, no sticker, but pretty strong plastic (like Protoform)....I ordered it from Towers.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/r/rccc0217.jpg

[tOrcHed Lh]

Racer's Choice right?:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSN8&P=7

[penggoy]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara

penggoy - well, hold on for this MOD, if you know NTC3NUT, he took quite a few pics from Team AE pit pertaining to the WORLD FINAL at OHIO last September, some of the drivers relocate the pressure relief to the upper FRONT part of the pipe, and they claimed that get give more consistant of fuel transferring and idleing..........

whats the part # of the pressure nipple that you put on your pipe? I have to put pressure nipple on my pipe so its easier for me to attach my fuel line to my exhaust pipe (and also like you said security issue) and Im not relocating the hole anymore since you told me there's no performance gain in doing that. thnx

[Rookie Solara]

Yes, that body is from Racer choice, not brand name item, but again, CHEAP is what I want cause I still don't know LOLA is any good on NTC3.

Also yes, I ordered the 90 degree pressure nipple from towers, use the search and find the right one, as long as they are 90 degree and for RC car return pressure fitting, that should work.

However, I think there might be some technical issue on installing a elbow nipple onto the existing opening, cause that hole is WAY bigger (almost 2 times bigger) then the elbow fitting, I am not sure how you can use JB weld to HOLD that nipple by dropping into the hole too far, and I believed JB does not get dry for at least 6-8 hours minimum........unless you want to HOLD that nipple for 8 hours........beside drilling a new hole and closing the existing one, I don't know how you can JB weld that nipple.

One solution is use HOT GLUE to hold the nipple, then use JB weld around it, when you race your car, the hot glue will melt in no time, but the JB weld will not....that is the ONLY way I can think of.........or you can actually WELD it....but very tought on alum.

[penggoy]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara

Also yes, I ordered the 90 degree pressure nipple from towers, use the search and ...
thnx a lot

[DOOD]

here's my pipe setup.....

[spenzalii]

OK, so the 'fix' is to keep the diff case from breaking, or to strenthen the shock tower? I'm still a bit confused.

[OutKast]

I just got my Ntc3 rtr yesterday. And I have a stupid question, and i will probably regret asking it but here it goes...What is the Blue ribbon thing that comes in the RTR package? Ive looked in the manual and cant find any use for it? i figured it has a purpose, but for the life of me cant figure out what it is for? Thanks.

[mugenracer123]

i just bought an rb rear exhast. mark pavidis won the worleds with an rb with a mr12 truck head it looks like. do you know if that is the head that he used or not?

[fastharry]

Baker wins 200mm class
B