View Full Version : E-Maxx Forum v1.0
I haven't, but I think it might work. The transmission mounts into the same spot and so do the bulkheads. Maybe even the servos do! Hmm...I might try that:D
MaxxQbn
06-01-2002, 05:57 PM
If you looking for the simplicity of the T-Maxx chassis, try the Xtreme Maxx chassis from Xtreme Racing. The chassis is made from Carbon fiber, looks cool and lowers the center of gravity by lowering the batteries. Check it out.
wolfen
06-01-2002, 08:49 PM
its not simplicity, its the price, I dont see why they charge so much for a aluminum e-maxx chassis and so little for a t-maxx chassis. I have got a t-maxx chassis from ebay, im going to see if I can convert it to a e-maxx chassis.
Could I use two brushless motors on an E-maxx with two super roosters? If I put two super roosters on an E-maxx where would I put the reciever? Is it worth to put two s-roosters on an E-maxx and how would it increase performance? Thanks.
speedydave
06-02-2002, 02:58 AM
Wolfen, think about it. The T-Maxx chassis is essentially a flat piece of aluminum with holes drilled in it. However, the E-Maxx chassis must be machined to have the separate "compartments", and the battery trays, as well as the holes. I'd think all the extra cost comes from extra machining costs, and the fact that it does use slightly more aluminum than a T-Maxx chassis.
Edit: Alla, you MUST use a special BL ESC with the BL motors, or they simply won't work. It's a different technology. If you do get a BL motor, you should really only need one, especially if you buy something with outrageous power, like the Modeltech. I don't know why you'd want to pay for a second one, either... One BL should be enough.:D
Okay then, thanks. I have a couple more questions. If I don't use brushless motors, and use regular motors, what's the adventage to using two esc(like super roosters)? Is there one? Also, I still don't know where I would put the reciver.
With using 2 ESC's you can use lower turn motors without toasting the EVX. Hell, I toasted it twice with the stockers:mad:
As for the reciever, tape it to the back of one of the ESC's, and then tape the one side of the ESC to the chassis.
Originally posted by Soya
Hell, I toasted it twice with the stockers:mad:
Hmmm... When you say "toasted it", do you mean in your thruck, or by pouring gasoline on it and setting it on fire? You have been known to do that to things. :D
haha. No, I mean in my truck. Hahahahahaha:D
Fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire fire:D :D :D
JerryL
06-03-2002, 08:19 PM
Just thought I would pop in and say hello to my fellow E-Maxxers. It has been a while and I have a LOT to catch up on.
JerryL
Has anybody used these or had any expirience with em? Or are they just crap?
Powerline? Seriously overpriced, but good.
Yeah I proabably should have said they were Powerline. I don't care too much about price difference, if I'm gonna upgrade shocks, I might as well get the best I like. And I like threaded shocks.
wolfen
06-06-2002, 10:02 PM
Well, here it is, I converted a T-MAXX chassis to a E-MAXX chassis, it took me about 3 to 4 hours to do it, I still need to mount the on/off switch but I got everything else done. I will try to secure the batteries a little bit better in the future but they work pretty good now.
wolfen
06-06-2002, 10:06 PM
Heres a side view..
wolfen
06-06-2002, 10:09 PM
top view...
wolfen
06-07-2002, 05:56 PM
Went to the LHS today and got some better stuff to hold the batteries on with, I will show some updated pics when I get it done.
wolfen
06-07-2002, 09:59 PM
updated pics..
wolfen
06-07-2002, 10:00 PM
one more...
Can I have your Maxx?:D :(
TC3B3L3T3GT
06-14-2002, 10:36 PM
I just got a set of TOP shocks for the emaxx.
They are AWESOME!
with the springs loosened all the way to the top, the truck sits about 3/4 of an inch off the ground, and handles like a buggy!!
offroader
06-16-2002, 02:52 PM
Originally posted by TC3B3L3T3GT
I just got a set of TOP shocks for the emaxx.
They are AWESOME!
with the springs loosened all the way to the top, the truck sits about 3/4 of an inch off the ground, and handles like a buggy!!
Is the name of them actually "TOP shocks"? if not what kind of shocks are they and where did you get them?
Thanks.
offroader
06-16-2002, 02:53 PM
I was just wondering if someone could help me out here. I put new oil in the shocks on my EMaxx and was just wondering...with the truck sitting on a flat surface, when you push the truck down (you know to test the shocks) how far is it suppose to come back up on it's own? When I push mine down it only comes back up about half way...is that the way it is suppose to be?
Thanks
It's not supposed to be that way unless you want it to be. I'm not sure how to fix it, you could try moving the springs down or getting stiffer springs. What weight oil are you using?
offroader
06-16-2002, 08:59 PM
it's Trinity 40 weight oil
JeepsDaddy
06-18-2002, 12:32 PM
what you are doing is checking ride height... make sure when you do that test that you have the batteries installed as their weight is needed ensure proper set-up....
if you are racing your EM you will want the drive bones to be level with the ground after doing this test..... if the bones aren't level, you can remove pre-load spacers until it sits properly..... if removing preload spacers alone won't get the proper ride height, then you will have to get different springs....
if you are just a basher, you will probably want a taller ride height than bones level for more ground clearance... so you may need to add pre-load spacers for more static height.... just experiment, and see what ride height would work best for your driving area...
peace out... :)
offroader
06-18-2002, 01:41 PM
Thanks
soulja657
06-19-2002, 08:47 PM
i have an e-maxx and i am thinking of changing the motors my uncle also has an e-maxx, but he put two 19 turn badd maxx motors on his. i will get him in the take off but he will come back and eat my lunch.so i want to get two trinity monster maxx 17 turn motors. do u think i should get the monster maxx motor or the badd maxx motor
soulja657
06-19-2002, 09:06 PM
would anybody recommend the proline maxx suspension kt
TC3 Benjammin
06-20-2002, 02:19 PM
offroader - I had the same problem. Get stiffer springs, thats what the problem is - not the oil.
Soulja - I've heard much better things about the Reedy motors.:)
soulja657
06-20-2002, 11:08 PM
thanks
Anthony
06-22-2002, 08:02 PM
does anyone have a spare tranny that they would like to get rid of want to trans plant in txt-1
Nope, I'm still using mine:p
soulja657
06-22-2002, 11:26 PM
I AM JUST WONDERING WHAT TYPE AND SIZE BATTERIES WOULD YOU ALL RECOMMEND
Anthony
06-23-2002, 09:42 AM
selling wise
rcfreak2003
06-27-2002, 08:34 PM
Can you put a touring car body on a E MAXX?
rcfreak:D
Anthony
06-28-2002, 05:55 AM
if its a new body and you stilll have to make holes it should be fine make sure that in its discription it tell you how long the body is so that it dose not look stupid with the body too short
NOTSR6
07-04-2002, 03:21 AM
Does anyone out there use a Lynx 3d for their emaxx? I just got the emaxx, and am having a hard time programming the lynx to "shift" on channel 3...any help would be very appreciated.:)
MaxxQbn
07-05-2002, 07:51 PM
MaxxTraxx.com has a whole article on modifying the XR3 to work with the E-Maxx.
Sorry I misread the message, disregard my comment
I nearly smoked my D4 when I put it in my E-Maxx. I'll never do that again:rolleyes:
Anthony
07-07-2002, 08:26 PM
what made you put a 7.2 in a 14.4 system? :confused:
My EVX blew up a while ago, and I wanted to run my Maxx. I used a Novak Rooster. Man, did that sucker get HOT:p
Is this a big enough heat sink?:D
Lord Radeon
07-08-2002, 06:39 PM
MY MAxx... won the B-main in monster truck class here.. only electric out of 17 trucks!
Lord Radeon
07-08-2002, 06:42 PM
2
Lord Radeon
07-08-2002, 06:44 PM
Not half-bad for a mostly stock truck eh? I have some nuclear voltage ballistic batteries that i use in the truck. They're great. Any q's/comments, feel free to im/email me.
Rear shocks are losi threaded ones, kept popping stock caps. Will upgrade to full losi shocks/dual rate springs on corners when i get the cash
AIM - Thewisdomwithin
Email - pouncer7@swirve.com
speedzone
07-10-2002, 02:54 PM
what kind of motors are those? And what is that mounted under the read body mounts?
New to this…many quest.
:confused:
Lord Radeon
07-10-2002, 03:16 PM
Those are the stock motors with heatsinks. That is a homeade receiver pack under the rear body mounts
speedzone
07-10-2002, 05:58 PM
Sorry to bother you,
how are those heatsinks attached? How much are they and how do they improve performance?
Thanks for the slipper insight, VERY helpful!
:D
Interesting choice, going for the stock motors....
Anthony
07-10-2002, 08:30 PM
it wont matter if you over heat the moter:D
do the 550 mod moters have cooling fans also?
Lord Radeon
07-11-2002, 01:00 AM
The heatsinks were $16- 17 a piece if I recal right, they lower motor temperature, and lower temps = more efficient = longer runtimes. They get lukewarm. I'm running 20t pinions with 66t spur, using both speeds on tranny. And soya, the stock motors are the best out there for the truck. bulletproof suckers ;)
except I stripped one of the mounting holes on the motor:rolleyes:
Anthony
07-11-2002, 03:15 PM
what did you use a torque wrench to tighten them i have never stripped a nut/bolt (badly) on any of my r/c cars i did on my mini-bike though
I didn't tighten it too much. I was running it and I noticed a grinding sound from the gear cover. I took off the cover and saw that the motor has almost completely come off the mount, and the pinion was SERIOUSLY chewed up. Good thing I was running the steel spur:D
Lord Radeon
07-12-2002, 12:47 AM
Get a plastic spur :-p steel ones will rob you of power
Anthony
07-12-2002, 07:33 PM
thats odd i never thought they would do that.
well if their heavy they could be used for high torque appplications
Lord Radeon
07-13-2002, 01:59 PM
Anything heavy like that gear will rob you of power.
It's not that heavy. I'd rather lose a teeny bit of power than pay for more spurs:rolleyes:
Lord Radeon
07-13-2002, 07:45 PM
ive had the same plastic spur for 3 months :rolleyes:
Yeah, but you don't know how I drive:p
oodlesonoodles2001
07-13-2002, 08:50 PM
hey guiys been a long while scince i posted here, but i jus wanted to ask if ne 1 needs a new EVX, i fired 1 got a new 1 and am now runnin a dual F1 super reverse set-up with some rush 15 turns love it, and well i have a new EVX , that if any wants lmk, at oodlesonoodles69@hotmail.com im askig 90 obo.
Anthony
07-13-2002, 10:20 PM
more power as if you hade a light weight flywheel youd get more rpm but if you had a heavy one youd have more consistant power band and its better for off-roading
Lord Radeon
07-13-2002, 10:37 PM
Anthony, what are you smoking? This is an ELECTRIC truck
Anthony
07-14-2002, 06:30 AM
O
well i would not care if i lost a little speed, id rather have all torque than speed pull kid on skatebords:)
Lord Radeon
07-15-2002, 06:55 PM
Think abotu it... ELECTRIC truck.. there are NO FLYWHEELS... :rolleyes:
Lord Radeon
07-16-2002, 12:30 AM
New pics
Lord Radeon
07-16-2002, 12:32 AM
My now 7-cell 3000 packs... bought an extra matched cell... holy CRAP this thing flies on 14 cells... supermaxx CVDs have been ordered... these rear drives wont last long ;)
Lord Radeon
07-16-2002, 12:32 AM
another view
Lord Radeon
07-16-2002, 12:35 AM
Inside of body shot: that is industrial strength velcro that was gotten at home depot in the rear. IT holds the body on well enough, the front is still done by clips. i found that without clips in the front, the body would come off in hard flip-landings or upside down slides. This works wonderful, and lets me get the body off for quick batt changes in mains. The batts are also held down by the same type of velcro.
Lord Radeon
07-16-2002, 12:35 AM
Shot w/ body on
Lord Radeon
07-16-2002, 12:37 AM
from top...
Lord Radeon
07-16-2002, 12:40 AM
And the batts.
A USEFUL tip, color the negative side of all your deans plugs with a black sharpie, so you know which side is negative and you dont lose those few seconds swapping in the mains when it matters. I found this VERY effective in getting them in right the first time.
ballistic matched 2400s... (These cells have insane punch and voltage... 1.13@25 amps... crazy voltage for ni-cds)
ballistic matched 3000s... (about even with the ni-cds, but with less punch IMO, about 5% longer runtime. adding the 7th cell really brought these cells to life. CRAZY power.)
Dyna-Sport 1500s (What can I say? cheap practice packs)
Lord Radeon
07-16-2002, 12:40 AM
urgh, close-up
(my apologies to all you poor dial-uppers out there)
What's with those wheels?!? Yuck!!
Lord Radeon
07-16-2002, 11:33 PM
velocity dish rims are the lightest rims out there, the black angle is so i can tell what direction the wheels are pointed when i get packed in with a group of trucks
Everybody's says velocity rims look the best, and I think they're full of it.
speedzone
07-18-2002, 02:28 PM
opinions opinions:o
Anthony
07-18-2002, 07:59 PM
to anyone of interist: how about putting a pair of traxxes 20 turn stinger moters, there matinace free and there cheap
Lord Radeon
07-19-2002, 05:31 PM
YEah... just like titans which are bigger and have more torque ;)
Besides, stingers arent meant for 14.v volts, you'd fry em
Lord Radeon
07-20-2002, 02:01 AM
Anthony for someone who's (supposedly) 17, you have the spelling, grammar, and vocabulary of a 10 year old. Not to mention, some just plain idiotic suggestions. I'm not trying to rail you or anything, but use your brain! :rolleyes:
light weight flywheel
:rolleyes:
stinger motors
:rolleyes:
it wont matter if you overheat the motor
:rolleyes:
Lord Radeon
07-20-2002, 08:51 PM
Newest mod: Air conditioning :cool:
This is how i connected the fan connector, just off of the deans plugs (didnt have to splice any wires = good thing)
Lord Radeon
07-20-2002, 08:52 PM
fan as it is connnected to the body
(long 4-40 screws, fan actually sits about 1cm off of body for more airflow, it is mounted on team losi plastic shock mounts
Lord Radeon
07-20-2002, 08:53 PM
fan connected
(note: plugs are opposite of the plugs on the evx, so i dont accidentaly plug a batt pack into the fan instead of the EvX)
Lord Radeon
07-20-2002, 08:54 PM
Plug is accessible with body on and can be tucked back in. Last pic. Notice all the holes drilled on top for airflow that the fan can suck in and blow on the motors
I put a fan like that on my charger. It needed it more:p
I was going to take a picture of it, but I left it at my friend's house:rolleyes:
Anthony
07-21-2002, 06:47 PM
well LORD RADEON, im sorry that i dont meet your expectations
running the stinger motors on 14.4v will make it more powerfull just they will burn up real quick ( heat wise not blow-up ).
you can even do this you self just get two stock 540's and stick them in with the evx. i also did not say that it wont matter if if they over heat.
i get posts like yours all the time and i just dont care i spell the way i want, im not going to look up each word to make others happy
and about the flywheels i assume that you know nothing about lager scale cars and trucks, the heavier the flywheel the more torque you have the lighter the flywheel the more rpm you get.
Lord Radeon
07-21-2002, 08:34 PM
Anthony, WAKE UP. THERE ARE NO FLYWHEELS ON AN EMAXX! IT IS AN *ELECTRIC* TRUCK
Anthony
07-21-2002, 09:02 PM
i relize that, but my point is that the heiver it is the more rotational force it has it dose not matter if it is gas or not.
and it dose not evn have to be a flywheel it can be a sper gear
I have to go with Radeon here. If the "flywheel" is heavier, you don't get more torque. You get more momentum, but not torque. The lighter it is, the faster it spools and the more torque you get, because the motor is wasting less torque on the heavy spur. Duh.
Lord Radeon
07-22-2002, 03:36 AM
Like soya said, heavier gives momentum, not torque. Lighter is better ;)
Anthony
07-22-2002, 06:07 AM
well on real cars and trucks thats how it works i would figure that the same basics would apply to mintureized versions
Real cars also have clutches and several speed transmissions:rolleyes:
Anthony
07-22-2002, 12:49 PM
http://www.miponline.com/flywheels.html
by having a heavier flywheel it incresies the mometem therfor makeing it harder to slow down while going up grades and hills.
by haveing a heavy sper gear on an electric would prvent it from accelerating as fast as it could, but it could reach top speed
you are right (if you said this) it probly would matter for an electric becuse the of lack of torque/rpm comeing from the motor
Lord Radeon
07-22-2002, 05:11 PM
Heavier gear would reduce top speed, because it wastes torque, torque that is needed to get the motor up to maximum speed, and increases the drag coefficient on the motor, which doesn't help any either. I know what your saying, but there really is no benefit to a heavier gear for electric r/c purposes. For nitro, sure, it helps the engine idle, but seeing as electrics are solid state, it negated the point.
Anthony
07-22-2002, 09:06 PM
i agree with you so i hope that the war has ended so ill drop the subject
Lord Radeon
07-23-2002, 12:36 AM
Ahem, now then... i have super maxx 1/8th scale diffs and front steel/ center Ti CVDs in the mail, as well as trinity stiff blue springs for all around, (my beast is HEAVY) and some 22 tooth pinions for the motors due to the 1/8th gear reduction... i need to pick up a 64 toooth spur! i cant wait for the diffs to get here. Also, can anyone recommend some cheap aluminum bulkheads?
Lord Radeon
07-23-2002, 10:40 PM
Since ive gotten no replies, i think i'll go with the GA bulks. I've heard nothing but good things about them... they're $130 a set and come with alum. braces f/r
Anthony
07-24-2002, 06:05 AM
yo ushould get the same kind of maker of the braces that are on the rest of your truck so you dont have about50 or so differnt parts on bord
Mykroe
07-24-2002, 10:54 AM
Where are modeltech's brushless motors and controls available at?
Lord Radeon
07-24-2002, 12:29 PM
MYkroe, modeltech stopped producing brushless because they're working on a new system. But why buy modeltech? there are MUCH more powerful systems out there. A Hacker 8s/ Shulze or lehner/lehner brushless would do you quite well in any situation. Now that my drivelines are fully upgraded, my next upgrades will be a hacker brushless motor and shulze controller, along with some alum. ladder braces and a supermaxx SS
I was thinking of a Modeltech. Tell me more about the Hacker and Lehner BL's. Price also.
P.S. You have too much money:(
Mykroe
07-24-2002, 08:06 PM
Thanks for the reply lord radeon. I was just doing some research on brushless motors. The hacker b50 8s is more powerful? thanks for the info.
Lord Radeon
07-24-2002, 09:07 PM
The hacker/shulze is the most powerful system out there just about, it puts out about 4700 rpm/volt
here's a link
your looking at about $400+
Hacker 8s/ shulze 18.97 is what I want. the 18.61 will work, but the 18.97 accepts more current, and wouldnt overheat and thermal as often
http://www.finedesignrc.com/cars-trucks.asp
Lord Radeon
07-24-2002, 09:08 PM
And soya: I'm only 15. I WORK for EVERY PENNY I have in my truck. Nuff said'
I'm 16 and I have 2 jobs. And my BL money stash seems to be getting smaller and smaller:( :( :( :(
P.S. 400?!?! Yikes!! I couldn't save that much in a year:(
Anthony
07-26-2002, 06:26 AM
that looks like there betterthan the ones at tower i forgot the name but suposedly thair have problems becuse they just came out and there about 80-90 for a motor and 260 for the esc
i dont have any thing that would diserve that setup yet maybe in a year or so
www.dictionary.com
USE IT!
Anthony
07-26-2002, 03:58 PM
wise ass
i just cant spell very good
hence the dictionary link:rolleyes:
Lord Radeon
07-28-2002, 09:42 PM
lol, AMEN soya
Lord Radeon
07-29-2002, 11:33 PM
rebuilt shocks today, front end re-built with CVDs and Ti centers, 1/8th diffs wont be in until mid august so i'm putting a new rear diff in so i can race until then... all shocks rebuilt with 40 wt, new stiff springs on there, this baby should be DIALED, ill take some pics of the under reconstruction maxx
I built a rollcage out of brass rod and held it together with zipties. Didn't have anything hot enough to braze it together. I'd post a pic, but it's on my other computer.
ConniePede
07-30-2002, 09:27 PM
You may think that an Emaxx is unbreakable.. well you are wrong. I will explain why soon. I just got mine about 2 weeks after driving my friend's Emaxx. I did a double front flip and a single front flip with it... it is soooooooo sick. Then my friend and I broke the rear bulkheads in half!!!!! Never go off a jump that is about 15 feet above the landing going full speed in second gear where you will get about 20 feet in distance off the jump, the results won't be good. We spent 2 hours putting the ones from someones Tmaxx onto it. I have videos of it also... (both flips and the crash) This truck rules!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My site ... ~~~ Spank Racing (http://www.geocities.com/spankrc)
Anthony
07-31-2002, 09:07 AM
if the brass rod is small in dia. you can use a 175 watt iron
Conniepede--I wasn't thinking that. In fact, I was thinking quite the opposite. I've had many a thing break on that "beast." ESC, bulks, skids, chassis, shocktowers, arms, the list goes on.
ConniePede
07-31-2002, 11:53 AM
Originally posted by Soya
Conniepede--I wasn't thinking that. In fact, I was thinking quite the opposite. I've had many a thing break on that "beast." ESC, bulks, skids, chassis, shocktowers, arms, the list goes on.
Nice job, but I have heard many people say it is unbreakable... which you and I both know isn't true........
tadium54
07-31-2002, 02:00 PM
I just got one. I must have been lucky, because I have cartwheeled it, flipped it and alot of cracy stuff, and i havent broken anything yet(except some stuff on the body, but I got it used, and it had alredy been started, so there ya go
I think I found the ultimate E-maxx chassis:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Lets count the battery slots:1..2..3..4..5..6..7..8..9..10..11.....
Lord Radeon
07-31-2002, 08:02 PM
Supermaxx is nice, but expensive. Slots for 8 cells on either side, lower CG.
On my maxx i've broke
Rear bulks (both snapped on hard landing off of a tabletop)
Body posts - Bent them anyway... no biggie, hard landing
Bent a shock shaft when shock came off lower mount
Twisted a few driveshafts, but I bought CVDs, so its irrelevant
MY idler gears are going out on me i believe, 7 cells and nuclear voltage is taking its toll. Time for SM Idlers
Lord Radeon
07-31-2002, 08:17 PM
MY upgrades consist of
MOtor heatsinks
Supermaxx CVDS
Supermaxx Ti Centers
SUpermaxx 1/8th diffs (in mail)
20 tooth pinions
Hitec 5945mg steering (kimbrough saver)
Megatech Alum. Ladder Braces (in mail)
Two losi threaded shocks, in the rear rear, to solve the popped caps
Stiff trinity springs
R/C Raven Chrome Center skid
Misc
~~~
Velcro battery straps
Digital intellipeak charger
7 cell matched packs from ballistic batteries (awesome batts)
Good driver (always helps)
Sponsors
~~~~~~~
Mother's credit card
My wallet
I think that's the second time you've told us all that:rolleyes:
I just got a wicked idea. Since I live in a very warm climate (97), I was wondering how I could cool off the motor. I made a heatsink out of a computer heatsink, but I thought of something else. Perhaps I could find a water cooling system used for boats. And maybe drive the pump off the other pinion or something.
crayon
08-01-2002, 06:52 AM
Is the E Maxx really that tough? I'm thinking about getting one because I not really that happy with my Jugg2 and TXT-1.
I've been reading the previous post and saw some people getting broken escs, overheating motors ...etc. I want a tough 4x4 with speed!:D
Lord Radeon
08-01-2002, 08:09 AM
THe early batch of EVXs had bad FETs, and many failed. The problem has been since fixed, and the ESC is great. It's a tough truck all in all, and I've been more than pleased with it. go for it crayon! Just be sure you have some extra cash to buy a pair of good chargers and some decent matched batteries and you'll enjoy the truck 3x more (no powermaxx crap)
Soya~Try putting a fan in your body like I did, I like in Georgia and it's quite hot here every day. The fan keeps everything so much cooler, its astounding. I read on maxxtraxx a guy is doing R&D on a liquid nitrogen :eek: cooling system for his Maxx...
crayon
08-01-2002, 10:29 AM
How will I know if the E Maxx I'm getting includes the new EVX? Whats the powermaxx crap? How come the E maxx has 2 servos? Sorry for my questions, I just want to make sure I don't make the mistake I did with my 2 previous trucks. I bought them cause they look good.:D
Hey, I have powermaxx batts. They're decent and they're cheap 2400's. Liquid nitrogen?!?! That's, um, kinda dangerous. Make sure you don't get a leak in the lines!
Crayon--Why don't you like the TXT-1? I have an E-maxx and would consider a trade for the TXT-1. I've always wanted one. And it would be wicked with a BL!!!!
JB_The_Evader
08-01-2002, 01:55 PM
Originally posted by crayon
How come the E maxx has 2 servos? ,
The e-maxx has two servos because it needs one for steering (that's obvious), plus it needs one for shifting.
Anthony
08-01-2002, 04:30 PM
this is what you maybe looking for: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXM123&P=7
and about the txt-1 you can swap in a e-maxx tranny tho get two speeds
and for the e-maxx with only two servos lets see
1 esc
2 steering
3 evx speed control no third servo needed
Lord Radeon
08-01-2002, 09:51 PM
Add a shock tower to the broken parts list :rolleyes:
Hehe. Get the XTM aluminum ones. Really cheap:D
crayon
08-02-2002, 05:41 AM
Soya: I want a truck that has independent arms and I could fully hop up:D
Yeah, then go for the E-maxx. Beware, though, it'll suck the money out of you. BTW, you're the first person to capitalize the first letter in my name. Thanks!
HAHAHAHA!!! FINALLY, BL HERE I COME!!!!!!!:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
flomofo
08-03-2002, 04:08 PM
hey crayon i have a modified 4 stroke t-maxx for sale here i want to trade for a txt-1 ... if your interested.
Lord Radeon
08-03-2002, 08:41 PM
Soya, were you the one who snatched that BL setup off of maxxtraxx? Just be aware, that that controler is only full brake. It will lock your drivelines whenever you hit brake, and put mucho stress on every moving part (think diffs, driveshafts) unless you have bulletproof diffs (1/8) and some ultra CVDs all around I would advise getting a different controller. Anyways, congrats on getting a BL... I wish I had the cash :p
Wasnt able to find those XTM towers, but the nitegy ones are cheap too, i might pick up a couple of those
No, I bought mine from www.finedesignrc.com. It's cool, 'cause I have Dynamite steel cvd's in the rear and a dogbone in the center.
BTW, you wish you had that much money? You've spent about 3 times as much on your E-maxx than I have. It took me all summer to save up enough :(
Lord Radeon
08-04-2002, 12:59 PM
I realy havent spent that much
Misc. broken parts - $50
UE CVDs&Centers - 180
UE Diffs - 220
Motor Sinks &misc pinions - 40
One set tires & Rims - 80
thats only 570....
batts I got off of ebay, 7th cell came later
$110 for batts
chargers i already had from my nitro....
So i figure i've spent $680 beyond original price... holy cow... lol didn't realize it was that much. Money pit, go figure
Lord Radeon
08-04-2002, 01:01 PM
The way I see it, brushless will DESTROY stock drivelines, so I had to get bulletproof drivelines before I even thought about BL.... just my opinion
$680?!? That's twice as much, even with the $300 BL!!:eek:
BTW, If something breaks in the driveline, I'll upgrade that part;)
Prinler
08-04-2002, 10:31 PM
Alright here it goes. My buddy just bought an E-Max and It is completly stock. What Upgrades would you recomend? We both noticed it doesnt turn very good. Like it has a delay. What would you recomend? he has 2 6 cell 2400mAh packs ummm and original everything. We were thinking heat sink battery straps ( do they even make those?) motor heat sinks? new stearing servo? ( what one is the best?) Let me know everything so we can have as much fun as we can with this MONSTER! Oh yeah and do they make faster motors? Thanks
SteveP
Evader Owner
Lord Radeon
08-05-2002, 12:18 AM
The first upgrades i'd recommend are
New steering servo
Look for
Hitec 645MG - $40 (~150 oz/in, .20 sec)
or for better steering still
Hitec 5945MG - $90 (180 oz/in, .13 sec)
Personally I run a 5945 MG and I love it, night and day over stock. Don't forget to buy a kimbrough #124 servo saver for it either!
Consider buying a rechargable receiver pack and not using the EVX to power your servos. The EVX only puts out 5 volts, not a full 6 volts like a receiver pack would. This too, would improve steering response.
Motor heatsinks are a must! Trinity makes a set, but the Associated TC3 motor heatsinks have more surface area. Logically, you'll need two.
Heatsink battery straps are nice, but not worth the $$ IMO... they don't make much of a difference.
~
Motorwise, STICK WITH THE STOCK MOTORS! Do not, and i repeat DO NOT buy the reedy BaddMaxx or Trinity Maxx motors. Both of those are junk, they suffer from terrible brush life, melted endbells, and more. If you want more speed, consider upgrading to seven cell battery packs. Put those in, and your E will RIP!
Also if you'r stickign with 6 cell packs, get some 20 tooth motor pinions. That will boost your top end up a few MPH, and the motors dont have too much trouble pulling the gear.
(DO GLUE THE TIRES, just in case you haven't, do it)
IF you have a few more bucks to spend still, consider the pro-ine suspention kit, or some offset rims with LIGHTWEIGHT tires. Maxx Mulchers, or Bow-Ties from proline work well, as well as Meat Grinders from Panther Tire, or IMEX Baja tires.
Your battery charger is also your main link to battery life, power, and runtime. $200 chargers are always worth it. I personally recommend the Duratrax intellipeak digital for Ni-Cd packs ($90ish), or the Reedy Quasar (also $90ish) for charging Ni-Cd and Ni-Mh.
Matched battery packs are also nice, but your ventureing into the wallet!
Try
www.ballisticbatteries.com
OR
www.racerhobbies.com
Either battery place can hook you up with some AWESOME matched battery packs built to suit your needs.
One last thing, switch your tamiya plugs over to dean's plugs. Tamiya plugs are lossy, and can MELT:eek: which is never a good thing.
Any other q's, post here, or feel free to email me.
pouncer7@swirve.com
crayon
08-05-2002, 08:35 AM
Soya: Thanks for warning me:D
Flomofo: I prefer an E Maxx, I'll trade my TXT if you have one.
My TXT has:
- Tamiya blue Aluminum cantilevers
- New Era Center skidplate
- Ofna foam inserts
- Hi Tec 645MG
- 2 Tamiya Type T motors (23 turns) with blue heatsinks
- Kimbrough servo saver
- Blue nuts
- Full ball bearings
crayon
08-05-2002, 08:43 AM
BTW its in very good condition and I still have the original clear lexan body
yingying
08-05-2002, 04:16 PM
i am planning to buy an electric monster truck i already have a nitro buggy. and i plan on doing every thing with the truck like mudding, hill climbing, rock crawling and not racing i want something with torque that will get traction to climb on loose dirt and with a good top speed my friend just got a t-maxx and he likes it but to turn u have to slow down to next to nothing to stop it from rollin over so which one is bst for wat i'm going to be doin
yingying
08-05-2002, 06:30 PM
if i got an e-maxx i would put on the imex jumbo tires will i have to get a high torque steering servo before i can get those or am i save to get the servo later and if i do get those tires is there anything else i should get
PLEASE use punctuation. Anyway, check out these skids I made out of some 6061 I got off Ebay. They aren't complete skids, that'd be too hard. Instead, I covered up 75% of the stock ones. The rear has a nylon spacer as a wheelie bar (didn't have any wheels).
yingying
08-05-2002, 09:09 PM
It seems like everyone on here buys there stuff off of ebay is it worth buying it used and is it abuse bad.
Lord Radeon
08-05-2002, 11:39 PM
You can get almost anything for a cheap price on EBAy... used... I've bought many items, and sold many as well. So long as the seller has a decent feedback, and the item looks decent in pics, go for it
Yeah, Ebay's awesome. I bought 4 12X12 plates of .250" aluminum for $9! I gave 2 plates to my friend 'cause I didn't need so many. He's made a lot of parts for his Stampede. Rear ladder bar, front bumper, he's almost finished on a new chassis. Actually, the Stampede is about 90% mine because of all my parts that are on it, mainly aluminum arms and shock tower, but almost all the plastic parts are from mine also. I started to give him parts after my Stampede snapped the rear end off from a jump. Then I starting piling my stuff onto his. Sort of a group project. I'd post a pic, but he's in Colorado right now:(
yingying
08-06-2002, 10:05 PM
Is the rpm nylon parts any good? because it only $45 for all the set of suspension arms upper and lower
Lord Radeon
08-07-2002, 12:19 AM
Ying: RPM parts are fine, but why bother unless you break a stock part? I'd spend the cash elsewhere. BTW nice job on those skids soya, 1/4" alum. is a mother to work with
Thanks. Yeah, .250" is....challenging. I have to cut it with a jigsaw, a dremel will take hours (I tried it). Weighs a TON, but unbendable. My friend's front bumper on the Stampede is indestructable. Once landed from about 6 feet onto the bumper alone. Didn't even scratch it:D
I was thinking of making a chassis for my E out of the stuff, but I figured it'd be too heavy. I think I'm going to pick up a stock T-maxx chassis off Ebay. God bless the internet!!
Anthony
08-07-2002, 09:41 PM
soya and lord radeon
you should take a metal fab class (if you in high school) then you dont have to use small tools to do the work, im in one myself
you think 1/4 inch is heavy try 1 3/4x 6x12 steel this one had to weigh about 70 lbs
but any way you can get and make stuff for free and make money also
Duh, steel's heavier. I was talking practical:rolleyes:
BTW, no metal classes:(
Anthony
08-07-2002, 10:24 PM
you cant take them at all or there not offered?
the thickist aluminum that i worked with was a 5x5x54 inck bar (i was making a sliding track for a telescope (the finished product was not that long but the wa sthe size of it raw)
and how did you bend that? i think that you should protect the front skid more than the center
They're not offered. Bending--a REALLY big hammer:D
I just bought a T-maxx chassis off Ebay for $12!! Brand new!!:D
Anthony
08-07-2002, 11:11 PM
that sucks
well is it the one plate piece of the whole center?
i might get an e-maxx to go with my txt-1
but im trying to lean twordes a touring car a rs4 pro 2 or a tc3
Originally posted by Anthony
well is it the one plate piece of the whole center?
What?
Anthony
08-08-2002, 04:36 PM
like on the e-maxx where the batterys and tranny are, and all of the other goodies like that
yingying
08-09-2002, 05:38 PM
what type of battscan u us more than once a day
Uh, yeah, it's all one piece. P.S.--Why are you posting in the E-maxx forum when you don't have one?:confused:
yingying
08-10-2002, 11:07 AM
I plan on buying one this week so i'm trying to learn as much as i can
aedriver15
08-13-2002, 05:36 PM
hey have any of ou guys pulled a 360 wit your e-maxx?
Lord Radeon
08-13-2002, 05:49 PM
On the ground, mine can do donuts... off of the track tabletop I can do a full backflip or front flip... just takes practice...
aedriver15
08-13-2002, 06:08 PM
man I've pulled a 360 with my friends e-maxx
Lord Radeon
08-13-2002, 11:52 PM
I smell BS... no ordinary EMaxx can do 60... with 20 cells on a dual brushless you'd be pushing it.....:rolleyes:
aedriver15
08-14-2002, 11:43 AM
I have done a 360 in the air with my friends emaxx off of a double at my bmx track
Lord Radeon--Not exactly. I've heard some guy with 2 hackers and 12 cells went 68.
Lord Radeon
08-14-2002, 02:14 PM
I'm talking 20 in parallel (10 cell voltage), for runtime.... 20 cells would effectively fry most any motor out there..... they are rated to 100k rpm unloaded....... 60k with a load, most controllers limit at 50k rpms.... the hacker 8s unloads ~5,600 rpm/ volt....... times 24 volts....... well you get the idea... just wouldnt work out too well!
It's possible, I just don't believe him :-p
Burnout
08-15-2002, 02:36 PM
Excuse me for the interruption but I finally got me an E Maxx yesterday! I purchased it used though. Knowing that I have a hard time finding used e maxxes I ran across an ad for it on the net. It was priced for $240, so I talked him down and he can only let me have it for $220. So after some talking he said that the truck is in great shape and been less than 15 runs through it. So I figured it would be in great shape. So I drove (very far) to go check it out. My first reaction was a little disappointment. The skids, bumpers, body posts, and the body was trashed. There was also numerous scratches on the arms and driveshafts with some mud caked onto a few places. I mean it is no big deal but the way they described to me as if it was 'like new'. Oh yeah and the truck is equipped with the VX12 speed controller with all Deans Ultra plugs installed. The owner told me that he always beats other e maxxes with the Novak EVX's. So the truck is basically bone stock except the Kimbrough servo saver that he installed also (=P). He did let me test drive it, and I have never driven an E Maxx before...all I had to say was wow, I loved it. Then I saw him drive it and I could tell already that this person does not take care of his stuff. Well anyways I did buy it $220 and he threw in some cheap 1300mah batteries along with batteries for the remote (the box, intructions, tools, and other things that came with it are still there and sealed, except the box). Then I got home and it took me the whole day cleaning this sucka up with a brush and a damped rag. Left the bumpers off (which I think looks better without bumpers) and armor all the tires for the final touch. I would have to say that I turned this e maxx around and it looks in excellent shape now. All I really need is to replace is the crooked bodyposts. So guys, what do you think? An E Maxx for $220?
Burnout
08-15-2002, 02:54 PM
I wish I took the 'before' pic of it but I got lazy.
Welcome to the club, Burnout:)
I'm just about finished with the T-maxx chassis. The tranny sits about .250" lower, which is cool, but the center skid doesn't fit anymore. Oh well, I'll work on that later;)
rcfreak2003
08-15-2002, 09:34 PM
I have a couple questions for you people that own the EMAXX. I just bought the emaxx about two weeks ago and some how I bent one of my drive lines that comes off the tranny. What caused it to bend was it to much TORQUE or was it just from poping wheelies all the time? When i bought the car I also bought a PIRAHRA PEAK CHARGER, is it nomal for it to get so hot I can't touch it with out burning myself? Thank You
rcfreak :cool:
Lord Radeon
08-15-2002, 11:22 PM
Nice job on the chassis Soya, LMK how it works out for you. And burnout, you just cant beat a deal like that, dirty or not, its still $100 off~!
RcFreak ~ Yes, it's simply caused by torque of the motors in the EMaxx... get used to it :rolleyes:
You may want to consider CVDs
The pirahna charger is known to get hot, its not the best as dissipating heat. Try keeping a small fan blowign on it and see if it helps.
~LR
BTW broke a shock tower and bent two shock shafts on a hard landing upside-down today... go me!
I seem to bend the shock shafts on my big bores all the time.
Lord Radeon
08-16-2002, 06:50 AM
Not mildly, i'm talking a 45 degree bend... the rear two were losi shocks, and didnt bend at all :eek: :D, but the upper rear two both bent at about a 45 degree angle.. stock shocks, i'll take a pic tonight
Way back when I had my Stampede, I needed thicker oil, but didn't have any, so I changed the pistons to 1-holes. I test dropped the truck from about 3 feet and bent the rear shock shafts at about 45 degrees
offroader
08-16-2002, 02:28 PM
I just installed the pro-line suspension kit, but I didn't get the MIP CVD's cause they are just too expensive. is it a given that i'm gonna twist my stock drive shafts or is there something I can do to help avoid this from happening?
Thanks
You should be fine as long as you use the stockers. Try inserting wooden dowel (I forgot the exact size) in the axles with some CA. It should hold together.
Lord Radeon
08-16-2002, 11:47 PM
3 feet.... ha! With my 13 pound EMaxx, I get about 4 feet of air off the tabletop jump. It's abotu 5 feet high, so I figure about 9 feet. I fell full force full upside-down from 9 feet up, going about 32 MPH straight into a PVC pipe... :D
Oh, offroader, I think it's 3/8" dowel.
Anthony
08-17-2002, 12:09 PM
i think 3/8's is too large, i think its about 1/8 to 3/16
this is only from looking at my shafts
K, I just measured it with my luxo calipers-.185"
Burnout
08-17-2002, 01:17 PM
Thanks for the reply guys! Now that I have a better knowledge of the truck I can see how the bodyposts and bumpers can easily get thrashed. The truck is so heavy, and rollovers and flips put so much amount of stress on the bumpers and posts (duh). I also been going to the rcmt and maxxtraxx boards to read more about the maxx and see that many people also have this problem. Luckily they are inexpensive replacement parts. Maybe sometime in the future I'm gonna make some Madforce type wheelie bar, I hate the look of the 'airplane wheels' sticking out from the back. And I won't go with the aluminum stuff and plus its damn expensive!
And Soya, wassup with the purple arms? Howcome you didn't get a full set of them? Cool job on the chassis, and even though its converted to electric it still kinda looks like a nitro to me. =P
Anthony
08-17-2002, 02:19 PM
the closest size to .182" is .187" which is 3/16" you might have to shave it down a bit to make it fit
Lord Radeon
08-17-2002, 08:14 PM
3/16 dowel will fit, BUT you will just twist and break your drive Yoke instead of the shaft...
Burnout
08-17-2002, 10:32 PM
I forgot to mention that the rims are losing its umm...brushed aluminum look. So I removed most of the chrome from the rims using wd-40. I guess it does work as some guys say it does, but its not that great. There are some chrome left in the insides of the spokes but just a little. I also hear that simple green and oven cleaner works great but I didn't have those products at home. Took lots of scrubbing and its not that bright the way it looks in the photos. I will soon dye them black anyways. I don't need to remove ALL the chrome in order to dye them right? Oh well, here it is!
Burnout
08-17-2002, 10:35 PM
You can still see some chrome in the pics.
Anthony
08-17-2002, 10:49 PM
i would try useing a dremel with a small polishing wheel and use it at high speed it should remove the chrome plateing
i tried to polishing mt txt-1's rims and it removed some of the chrome so it might work
Burnout--I bought the RPM arms 'cuz I broke the stock ones. I haven't broken the rears yet, so the upgrade wasn't needed.
Lord Radeon--I was just offering a quick fix, not a solution:rolleyes:
StevePond
08-22-2002, 06:52 PM
Road work ahead...
StevePond
08-22-2002, 06:55 PM
Fixed. :D
Cool. Thanks a bunch. I was getting worried BC I couldn't see any of the new posts:(
yingying
08-22-2002, 09:01 PM
i ordered my e-maxx off of tower yesterday and i still have around $260 and i plan on spending it on hop-ups ijust want to know what are the first hop-ups i should get i'm looking for durability
Racer88622
08-22-2002, 09:37 PM
Hey Has anyone made an E-maxx into a Rally car? ive seene it done but i dont know how well it works
i want to turn an E-Maxx into a Rally car and use my Hacker Brushless motor to power it
so any help or experience would be great! thanx:D
Lord Radeon
08-22-2002, 11:44 PM
Yingying, the only things i'd suggest you buying off the bat are stiffer springs. Spend the rest of your money on GOOD CHARGERS (Reedy Quasars, Novak Milleniums, Digital Intellipeaks, etc etc) (2) and some decent batts
It's not something you'll ever regret
yingying
08-23-2002, 05:29 PM
i already ordered duratrax twin pulse charger and 2 maxx paxx batteries
i'm thinking of getting the duratrax skid plates, braces, rpm bumpers and i have a old t-maxx chassis so i'm goin to try what soya did or get some thick fiber glass to build a chassis
MaxxQbn
08-23-2002, 11:00 PM
Interesting idea, I have seen an e-maxx turned into a 1/8 buggy style racer but not a rally car. Is there a body wide enough to cover the tires. I use an Xtreme Maxx chassis, so it is already dropped low. I would try it with my maxx.
slid'in sideway
08-24-2002, 07:34 AM
Go to Ultimate R.C.com, on the ultimate traxxas bb, theres a guy named the jang, he has made one and seams to be very pleased with it.
Lord Radeon
08-24-2002, 02:32 PM
You will be very dissappointed with those batteries... also, aluminum skids are about 97% worthless. They bend, and the stock ones are just fine. RPM bumpers are also not any better than stock. Try buying useful hop-ups first
edpauly
08-24-2002, 07:22 PM
I installed the new UltraLite 7.5 Differentials in my E-Maxx after replacing the spider gears in my GPM AL diff cases with the Kipper Kit and RRP gears. Theses 1/8 scale diff's should hold up to the torque of the Brushless systems. If you are having problems with the spiders, then this is the fix.
Thanks for looking:
http://a4.cpimg.com/image/48/0A/12229704-cf4b-02000180-.jpg
http://a5.cpimg.com/image/EF/07/12229615-700e-02000180-.jpg
http://a5.cpimg.com/image/49/0A/12229705-1dbd-02000180-.jpg
http://a8.cpimg.com/image/7E/0C/12229758-15f0-01800200-.jpg
http://a0.cpimg.com/image/72/B9/10036850-f5aa-02000180-.jpg
http://a5.cpimg.com/image/11/BE/12108305-d06a-02000180-.jpg
http://a9.cpimg.com/image/6B/0B/11079019-06bb-02000180-.jpg
:cool:
Ed
edpauly@rushmore.com
krisI.925
08-25-2002, 12:20 PM
Very Nice truck. Like all the aluminum. What brushless set up do you have/are you getting in your e-maxx. Im probably gonna be getting a set up soon but havent quit desided on the motor.
edpauly
08-25-2002, 01:05 PM
Thanks I'm running the single system right now, last 20 months, and had the dual untill I started to break gears in the diff's and tranny. Now I installed SM idler gears in the tranny and a single ModleTech system and everything is Ok. I do get thermals after 6 to 7 min of hard running in tall grass or in 2 gear all the time, but I bash, No racing so it is great for me. Will be looking for the new water proof controller by the end of the year from MT. If not then what I have is Ok. I run a PC fan on the controller to get rid of some of the heat. works good.
http://a1.cpimg.com/image/B9/BB/10036921-21e9-02000180-.jpg
http://a0.cpimg.com/image/C2/BB/10036930-d0d0-02000180-.jpg
http://a4.cpimg.com/image/6C/B9/10036844-169b-02000180-.jpg
Skribble
08-25-2002, 03:31 PM
yingying, get Pro-line's Wide Suspension Kit, or their Offset rims, or both. Or you could get the Xtreme Racing Chassis which lowers the CG ..
Which costs quite a chunk of money.:rolleyes:
Lord Radeon--The stock skids ARE NOT fine. I break 'em all the time.
yingying
08-25-2002, 09:11 PM
i would rather get something like the trophy class rc suspension but it is $400 us which is like $650 canadian and i have already spent all my money on clothes and all i have left is the money for the e-maxx and $260 i can't find any suspension like that for cheaper
Racer88622
08-25-2002, 09:29 PM
ya i saw the jangs truck and thats what im going after
do you know of any other ppl that have done that?
Skribble
08-25-2002, 09:35 PM
Unlimited Engineering WideTrac Stage 3 Suspension. http://unlimitedengineering.com/wt-susp.shtml
$160 bucks. http://stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=UE&man=Unlimited%20Engineering
Prinler
08-25-2002, 09:35 PM
On my buddies e-max... We took it apart to replace/upgrade some parts on it.... When we removed the motors and the mount... we can turn the crank on the trani almost 3/4 of a turn before it catches on a gear.... Is This normal? Let me know if you dont know what im talking about :)
yingying
08-25-2002, 10:10 PM
can u use the stock universals of do u have to us aftermarket
randalee
08-26-2002, 01:37 PM
Prinler,
The play in the transmission is normal. There are a couple of discs with slots and pegs that mate together inside. The slots go around the circumference of the disc. If you pull apart the transmission, you will see the part I am talking about -- I can't describe it really well in words.
It is a normal part of the transmission. Maybe it's there to help protect the transmission from slamming forward and reverse on the old VX-12 speed control.
I'm not exactly sure WHY it is the way it is, but I do know that it is normal.
Randy Clements
Salt Lake City, UT
Edpauly--I officially envy you now;) :(
Skribble
08-26-2002, 06:21 PM
can u use the stock universals of do u have to us aftermarketYou can use stock, but when you do get aftermarket, buy the Unlimited Engineering extended driveshafts made for it.
yingying
08-26-2002, 08:22 PM
thanks skribble
i plan on gettin that soon but i have to get some hop-ups first and i plan on gettin those driveshaft to
WhoKnowsWho
08-28-2002, 02:14 PM
I am now a member of the E-Maxx owners guild!
That play in the tranny sure is strange, and is it normal to make a pretty large amount of tranny noise? Or does that go away?
I checked the mesh of the pinions and spur after the EVX died, 10 minutes into the first run. Must have been a bad FET or something, I already exhanged it for another at my shop though.
Join the club. The only reason I went BL is because my EVX toasted twice. Power is just a benefit:D
msyco
08-28-2002, 04:47 PM
the steering works but the truck won't run, what could be the problem:( thanks
WhoKnowsWho
08-28-2002, 07:23 PM
msyco: That's what happened when my EVX died... all you can probably do is recheck the connections.
Can't wait for my BL... if that works okay, maybe I can shoehorn the Titan setup into my Clod.
msyco
08-28-2002, 07:43 PM
i had a feeling that was what was wrong. Should i take it to my lhs, or should i send the evx to traxxas ? Thanks
msyco
08-28-2002, 07:46 PM
what's BL, and i thought that was the problem
WhoKnowsWho
08-29-2002, 10:42 AM
BL is used to mean Brushless motor. Sorry, forgot I wasn't in the BL thread. :)
Try calling the hobby shop first, they might swap you one, they might not. And if you changed the plugs, change them back before you send it anywhere.
Haha, I believe jeepinator had an "incident" with aftermarket connectors:p
msyco
08-29-2002, 04:55 PM
thanks, whoknowswho, 1 more thing what if i have not filled out my warrenty card, will they still exchange it ?
WhoKnowsWho
08-29-2002, 08:00 PM
Not sure... and thanks for reminding me! I still haven't filled out my card, nor have I run the truck again... work sucks. :(
WhoKnowsWho
08-30-2002, 10:41 AM
Actually, work was a lot nicer last night 'cause I went ahead and took the E-Maxx with me. :) A friend with a TC3 wanted to see it so I drove it around the parking lot and up the rocks and down the stairs and over the curb. Lots of fun, hehe. It put on a good show for 20 minutes for everyone. And the TC3 guy wants one bad now.
slid'in sideway
09-01-2002, 09:51 AM
Hay,
I was just wondering if anyone out there has tried any other ESC's on there E. I picked up a good used Tekin 4-20 G2 from a friend of mine. Yes, I know it doesn't have reverse, but going just going to race anyway. Booklet said it will take 4 to 20 cells and twin no motor limit. Anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks
Slid'in Sideway
msyco
09-01-2002, 11:58 AM
doesn't it have to be 14.4 volts, i beileve that esc 7.2 volts
slid'in sideway
09-01-2002, 07:07 PM
From what I understand the Tekin 4-20 G2 could handle 4 to 20 cells in series with two motors and with no limit on the motors turn count. It was made for drag racers and truck pullers in mind.
Once I get this thing all wired in and test it I'll let you know how it works.
STILL waiting for my BL controller....:mad: :(
Lord Radeon
09-02-2002, 10:47 AM
Victor makes a nice ESC for the E MAXX, beats the heck out of the EVX, it's a little bigger and heavier, but you'll get a bit more punch and much better runtimes. Only problem is it's just as much as a brushless setup... D'OH! I feel for you Soya, my maxx is out of commision, waiting on Alum. rims (stripped out 7 plastic ones already)
You mean you stripped out 7 hexes already?!?! Yikes! I think I've driven my E-maxx a total of about 10 minutes in the last 4 months:(
Mmmm....Mud:)
This is my friend's custom Radioshack. He took an old Radioshack 4X4 frame and axles and added a 3 link suspension out of Stampede camber links and dogbones from an HPI Nitro MT. He also added an Associated Stealth tranny and a D4 along with MY Rooster. Sweet, huh?
Here's an articulation shot. Not bad for a Radioshack, eh?
WhoKnowsWho
09-03-2002, 04:14 AM
Not too bad at all... it's got more than my stock clod! :)
MORTER MAN
09-06-2002, 12:07 AM
i hey guys i got an e-maxx for sale no trades and hers what its got. rpm front shock tower , rpm front a-arms [4] and it needs front drive shafts ,its got a chipped bulk head in the front and thats it . it runs fine now but its 2 wd i am asking 185.00 but can bargain
My controller should be coming in tomorrow:D
Lord Radeon
09-10-2002, 11:07 PM
I'm green with Envy on the BL, i took out the first primary and the idler gear from my tranny and locked in second. I'm sick of the hassle... can't say yet if it runs any better. My Proline kit & extended cvds should be in next week some time. The 1/8 diffs are holding great (the wheels, however, arent) i've strippde out all of my offset wheels. So i bought the PL kit, so i could keep wideness and use stock wheels, which are said to hold up the best, as far as plastic goes. time to boil/reglue my bow-ties... what a hassle. Cheers
~LR
Here it is with the BL. It overheats a lot, but I'm working on it. And if you were wondering, yes, it's INSANELY fast:D
Lord Radeon
09-12-2002, 10:33 PM
drop the pinion to a 14 and see how the heat goes
Lord Radeon
09-18-2002, 04:29 PM
EMaxx on a diet... I saved about half a pound with little mods, new pro-line kit and cvds... (those supermaxx ones was heavy!) took out the first speed idler gear, and primary in tranny, servo... added a stiffener in the servo's place... new losi shocks... i'll post a pic or two here in a second
WhoKnowsWho
09-18-2002, 06:29 PM
My BL setup gets here tomorrow! Hope I don't have as many problems as you Soya! :) I'm just having a hard time deciding what car it should go in first!