E-Maxx Forum v1.0

[Lord Radeon]

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[Lord Radeon]

2

[Lord Radeon]

Thats right, Low Emissions Baby!

[Soya]

Get a bit bored, did we?

[Lord Radeon]

Just a wee bit :p :rolleyes: :rolleyes: , but it's great when you whoop up on a TMaxx or four... :cool:

[Soya]

With the stock motors?

[Lord Radeon]

yup, thats the best part. batteries with nuclear voltage :D

[Soya]

My Integy has TONS of power. I charge it 3/4 full, trickle overnight, then charge the rest. It easily has twice the power of my Peak packs:D
You have the SMC packs, right? I might get some of those....

[Lord Radeon]

SMC? ::laugh::

I run solely matched ballistics :cool:

www.ballisticbatteries.com

[Soya]

Ahhhh....

[Prinler]

I come asking for the lord :)

Lord I just purchased a E-maxx that needs some TLC. Has a Broken arm and his turn buckles are lose.... I havent recived it. I was looking to buy new parts for ti b4 it gets here so i can run it asap. http://**************/ws/*******************************1768497478

or check out 1768497478 on ebay.... that is the auction i won. The guy is super nice. "I've used this Emaxx not more than 15 times. It's beat up but it still runs like a monster! The front arms need some fixin' and one of the turnbuckles needs to be tightened with a longer screw. I have Aluminum guards for both front and back. Other than that what you see is what you get. "

say the front arms.... What parts do i get for those? and the turnbuckles need to be tightened? Any ideas? on my evader... they are either on or not.... having some ajustment but still how do they get loose? you think maybe there stripped? Lord or anyone else who wants to reply, What parts do i need to order so i can rebreak some more parts :)


thanks
stevep

[Prinler]

Alright i have one more question. Looks like the antenna is all messed up... my buddy is having a problem with his tubes... we are both looking for osmething more stiff. What do you all use?

[Lord Radeon]

About the antenna tubes, just a piece of plactic tubing from the LHS, they're more or less all the same. Stiff isnt good though, so a flexible one is good (The truck rolls over, will trash a stiff antenna tube)

As for the arm, just order another upper arm. Shouldnt be more than $10.

The turnbuckle sounds like one of the ends isnt very tight where it's screwed into the chassis. Long screw and locknut will solve that. Can't tell you much more until you get your truck ;) enjoy!

[WhoKnowsWho]

You could always run the antenna tube out through the back window by adding a new hole. Then when it rolls, it will not chew up the tube.

[Lord Radeon]

that works on a tmaxx, but on an emaxx, it will do strange things to your truck. routing an antenna over two motors is NOT a wise thing to do. Glitches like mad, and your range gets effectively 1/4'ed. Up and out is better

[slid'in sideway]

Couple of weeks ago I asked if any one had tried any other ESC's in their E-Maxx and told that I just got hold of a used Tekin 4-20 G-2. It took me awhile to get it installed, I work alot of hours, and since the guy I bought it from didn't have the booklet for it, setting the transmiter and pods( it's not a one touch set up ), that took a little while.
Unlike the EVX that I took out, it dosen't have reverse, but thats ok, I'm racing so you can't use it. The tekin is about 1 1/2 ounces lighter then the EVX and about 1/2 the size. A person I knew years ago used one in his clod with 10 cells and 13 turn motors and never had a problem, so I thought I might try one in my E with 12 cells and 14 triples in it.
Since it's 90's technology I expected it to run a little warmer then todays ESC's, and it did, but most ESC's now a days can't run that many cells anyway.
I will test it with 18 cells in series to see if it wiil burn down, but first I have to make up the 2 nine cell packs. If it will run those with out frying, even for a short time then it should be able to race with two 9 cell packs in parallel and be ok. I'll be racing with 10 turn motors though. I'll let you all know what happens after I try the 18 cells in it.
Please let me know what you think.
Thanks
Slid'in sideway

[Lord Radeon]

Prepare to have one fried ESC and two fried motors... lol :rolleyes:

[speedydave]

Hey guys. I'm thinking about slowly beefing up my E-Maxx, and then eventually I will buy a BL motor(maybe around Christmas). For now, I'll keep running te EVX/Titans(I need to send the EVX in, though :( ), and beef up the truck(I'm thinking some RPM stuff, PL suspension, full CVD's, RRP slipper, and possibly 7.5 diffs, to take the power of the future BL motor). I'm not too good with the names/models of the BL motors, but I know either Hacker/schulze, or ModelTech are good, but I'm not sure which is the E-Maxx motor/ESC. Can you guys help me out with this? Which BL motor/ESC would be best for the E-Maxx? I'd like to have reverse, but reverse is by no means necessary. I'd rather have a smooth running, reliable motor/ESC than reverse with a not-so-reliable ESC. Thanks for the suggestions!

[Lord Radeon]

Don't buy the RRP slipper. Slips too much or not enough for a BL setup

[Soya]

Don't listen to Radeon (no offense). I have the RRP slipper with a BL and it works fine. The stock diffs have also held up.
Try the BL motor forum for all your BL needs;)

[Lord Radeon]

curious, i've heard nothing but bad things about the RRP slipper on maxxtraxx. Oh well ::Shrugs::

[Soya]

Perhaps it's because I have the steel spur.

[speedydave]

Steel spurs are icky.

[Lord Radeon]

Well, that could explain some of it :p . The main problem was the centers melting out from excess slippage... but with a steel spur, thats not bound to happen.

[Soya]

Originally posted by speedydave
Steel spurs are icky.
What do you mean?

[speedydave]

Uhm...I dunno. Whenever I see a steel spur on a T-Maxx, it causes more problems than it solved.

[Soya]

I just ordered an 8 tooth pinion. Hopefully that'll cool things down a bit:)

[Lord Radeon]

EIGHT tooth? I think that's a bit excessive... try 11 or 12 tooth first. You may not get enough speed with an 8

[Soya]

You're kidding, right? Say it with me, BRUSHLESS:rolleyes:

[Lord Radeon]

i'm not kidding. even with a bl

[Soya]

With the 16, My Maxx was WAY faster than my Rally, which had a 25/72 and weighed less than half. RPM=54,000. I think it'll be fine:rolleyes:

[Soya]

Who makes the 4-wheel steering kit? I can't find it anywhere.:confused:

[Lord Radeon]

I think ESP makes one, but i'm not really sure... Let me know how that gearing works, i do think it will be a tad low though.

On another note, what's the runtime difference your noticing, and does the BL motor get hot/warm?

[RogueRacing]

I was going to do this conversion to my e-maxx. have you tried it out yet? how did it work? Oh Lord Radeon the Tekin is made to handle any motor and up to 20 cells i don't think it's gunna melt down anytime soon.

[Lord Radeon]

I don't care what it says. That controller will burn up under that load and 18-20 cells. that's effectively a 7 turn motor with 18 cells in a 13 pound truck. The parallel packs should be fine, but I wouldn't even attempt the series connection... too much current for motors anyway. 7.2v motors on....... 20.6 volts? talk about comm wear...

[RogueRacing]

well Tekin was a little smarter than novak in that deparment... They have a fuse. can't really hurt the controler but the motors may be a problem.i was only planning on running 12-14 cels myself anyway. i don't want the added wieght of too many cells

[Soya]

The runtime's not spectacular, and the motor gets slightly warm.

[slid'in sideway]

Hi,
Just one little thought on the experiment with the Tekin 4-20 G-2. I believe that it depends on how you wire the motors, series or parallel. I'm still working on getting those 9 cell pack together.

[RogueRacing]

yep one halves it one doubles it...i have the thing somewheres..

[Soya]

The pinion didn't reach, so I ran out for another spur. 72/8!!! TORQUE!!!!!!!!

[Soya]

Ahhhh............Rockcrawling:D
I easily got 20 minutes of runtime, and the torque is incredible. Now all I need is some Nitro Quake Tires, lock the diffs, and put some sheet aluminum on the lower arms; they're getting a bit chewed;)

[Soya]

Huh, pics didn't work:(

[Soya]

Another....

[Soya]

Last one.

[WhoKnowsWho]

Hey, has anyone seen or tried either of the New Era Models aluminum chassis' for the E-Maxx?

[RC-addy]

iv'e had my e for about a month now, and it breaks every other time i drive it !:(

[RC-addy]

i was just looking at those pics you posted, and i was just thinking..... isnt that a little risky running an ELECTRIC truck right next to a LAKE, especially since it sounds like you've put a lot of money into it!

[Soya]

Yeah, it's a bit risky. I stand between the truck and the water, and it's got quite a bit of ground clearance. I've had it in about 3" of water and nothing electronic got even close to being wet:D

[Soya]

Whatever works, right? Now, for those servos....

[Soya]

Cmon, guys, am I talking to myself here?
In case you were wondering, rockcrawling is quite difficult in the rain:p

[WhoKnowsWho]

My E-Maxx is sitting on scale cinder blocks right now. I just installed the RPM skid plates and bulkhead braces. But also picked up the Pro-Line suspension kit finally. And I have been bouncing the brushless motor between cars. I think I need a different brushless motor for the E-Maxx though... so the one I have hasn't been put in there. I also have 2 pairs of masher tires on StableMaxx rims, which probably won't work too well with the pro-line suspension, so I am stuck between stuff right now.

I see some fried stuff in your future Soya! :)

[Soya]

It's been raing for about 14 hours now, gonna do some serious swamping afterschool:D

[Lord Radeon]

that's ghetto!You should join the ghetto EMaxx club.... lol there's 3 of us.... be a fourth!

[Soya]

Well, mine just turned "ghetto." My Integy, my best battery, my most expensive battery, shorted out on my chassis. Suffice to say, I'm quite pissed:mad:

[Lord Radeon]

ouch.... how did you manage to do that?

[Soya]

Well, the battery bar at the end was showing, and one of the wires was showing in the front. When connected by an aluminum chassis and steel standoffs, ZZZAAPPPPPP!!! :mad:

[Lord Radeon]

well that's why you shrink wrap everything twice :-p... go to radioshack and buy some big shrink wrap (clear), and shrink all of your packs with it once or twice. works with SxS packs or Stick, stops the shorting.

I doused all my electrics a week ago, i might pop some batt sin tonight... hope they still work... heh heh

[Soya]

I just hope it didn't toast my controller:(

[ConniePede]

Soya, I must be blind, but I cant seem to see your truck in those pics with the rocks...

[Soya]

Hehe, my truck was broke at the time.

[slid'in sideway]

Hay,
I got those two 9 cell packs put together and tested that old ESC. The last time I tested it was with two 6 cell packs in series ( 14.4 volts ). At that tme the ESC ran a little warm, but seamed ok, even the 14 turn triples I had put I it weren't that warm. Their seamed to be a gliching problem with the steering servo, at least thats what I though it was.
OK, time for the real test, charged up the two 9 cell packs ( 18 cells in series ) and plug them in. When I turned on the ESC everything seamed normal. No gliching, steering seamed fine, nothing fried at that point. Just to check it I ran it in my basement a little before going outside. I could put my finger on the ESC heat sinks no problem. Their is one fet on those ESC's that a part from the others, I did notice it was a little warmer then the rest , but not hot.
So i took it outside to see what it would do. I jammed the trigger down to see if it would fry. Man that thing was FAST, I made 4 long full speed runs up and down my street. I pulled it in and everything seam ok, but that one fet, it seamed way hotter then anything else. The other heat sinks didn't seam any hotter then when I ran it with 12 cell like that and the motors wern't any warmer either.
Well after making 4 more runs up and down the street the same way I started to lose the steering. That one fet was now blazing hot. I figured there was something going on with it, but this is a test right? I knew I had another heat sink around so I thought I would put it on. Being to much in a hurry and not thinking I just tried shove it on, unfortunately it touched one of the other heat sinks, ZAP !!! Then nothing. Funny thing the pop fuse didn't go. There is a guy that fixes those things so maybe I'll send it in.
The way I'm thinking their must have been a problem in the fet that controls the voltage for the BEC.
If anyone has any thoughts on this please feel free to comment.
Slidin Sidway

[tadium54]

Mine now has 20 tooth pinnions, rpm shock towers and skidplates, titanium turnbuckles on all corners, deans plugs, 40wt oil and proline disc brake rotors.

soon to have harder springs, bowties on velocities, extra spurs, and a few better bodies.

[Lord Radeon]

My two cents is to skip on the velocities and stick with stock wheels. I've stripped out SEVEN velocity wheel hexus and not a single stocker

[Soya]

And the stockers look better:)

[DannyBoy05]

have u guys seen this new stuff from proline??
the tires are the 40 series "Big Joes", the rims are the new 40 series Velocity 6s, and the body is a Dodge Power Wagon. the new tires are an inch wider and 3/4 inches taller. they also came out with new road rages that are the same size(jnot pictured). the rims are increased in size as well. proline says the rims are a a scale 40". bling bling:D

[Soya]

Those are kinda.......uhh.....big. Too big.

[Lord Radeon]

I might get some of the big pro-lines for on-road. no sidewall flex, et al. BEsides, they're pimp!


In other news, I ordered a pair or new motors today. Graupner speed600 Ball bearing motors... hopefully these will perform like the titans and last a bit longer. We'll see!

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/speed600.htm

(btw the 600bb 12v turbo are the ones i bought)

[WhoKnowsWho]

Lord Radeon: Is less than 11,000 loaded RPM going to be enough for speed? It sure sounds like a small amount... do you happen to know what the stock Titan RPM rating is?

[Soya]

I'm guessing 16,000 to 20,000 for a stock 550.

[Lord Radeon]

The loaded is irrelevant, that is referring to airplanes when prop-loaded. (Airplane motor)

The stock titans are rated at 1,500 RPM/volt
These motors are ALSO rated at 1,500 rpm/volt.

Same speed, only they'll last longer, and run smoother and slightly faster because they're ball bearing motors. :-) gotta love it

[WhoKnowsWho]

Sounds good, good luck with that setup!

[Lord Radeon]

They should be in tomorow, I'll post how things work out

[Soya]

My E's kinda grounded since I've started my project. What is my project? I thought you'd never ask:D
I'm making a solid axle mt. I'm using Radioshack axles, cut tires, a ladder chassis out of some 3/16" aluminum I just bought, cantilever suspension with 8 shocks, and the maxx tranny with BL. Sounds like fun:D

[Lord Radeon]

First thoughts on 600BB motors.... runtime si INSANE, I got about twice - 2.5 times what I got on the titans... wow...

speed is not quite that of the titans,,, VERY CLOSE, but maybe 5% or 10% less... though, also count in the motors aren't broken in yet. Should improve over a few runs.

Motors didnt get anywhere near as hot as titans... speed control stayed cool-lukewarm... not any slight bit hot at all.

Motors are much QUIETER than titans
So far, I'm quite pleased

[Soya]

Yay, I'm an Addict:D

[Lord Radeon]

Regeared these motors for a bit more top speed. Tomorrow's race day. We'll see!

[tadium54]

Drove the truck again today. Broke it again within the first 10 minutes, damn, these stock front bulkheads suck. Ohwell, onto the LHS I go in a few for some more mods.

[Soya]

My E's in a pile in my basement after I took the tranny and shocks;)

[super_maxx]

HERES MY Emaxx

[Soya]

Hehe, forgot to put in the pic?:p

[mr.big.rc]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
First thoughts on 600BB motors.... runtime si INSANE, I got about twice - 2.5 times what I got on the titans... wow...

speed is not quite that of the titans,,, VERY CLOSE, but maybe 5% or 10% less... though, also count in the motors aren't broken in yet. Should improve over a few runs.

Motors didnt get anywhere near as hot as titans... speed control stayed cool-lukewarm... not any slight bit hot at all.

Motors are much QUIETER than titans
So far, I'm quite pleased does the esc get hot stock?

[Lord Radeon]

running on 14 cells, it gets hot to very hot stock

[E-MaxxDestroyer]

Here's my E-Maxx. I run trinity heatsinks on the Titans to keep them cool. Even with these I have fried the EVX 6 times.:( I like to drive it the river though.....:p :rolleyes:

Click Here for More Pics. (http://hometown.aol.com/convoy315/myhomepage/gallery.html)

[super_maxx]

:) maybe

[super_maxx]

lol..

[super_maxx]

well i tried lol:D

[super_maxx]

LOL.... what can i Say!@!



http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbumPhoto.asp?userid=super_maxx&album_id=105237&image_id=0

[Soya]

Sweet:)

[Prinler]

What are the advantages of Hard springs on shocks?


Also Im having a problem with the max's screws falling out the bottom of it.... the screws that hold the front skid pla te on :( I have lost 2 sets now.

[tadium54]

From stock, I have discovered this:

1. Stock front bulkheads are junk
2. Stock front skidplate is junk
3. Stock hinge pins are junk(atleast the front ones.)

Thats all for now.

[Soya]

And the stock driveshafts are junk.

[super_maxx]

hey soya thanks:)

[Soya]

Sure:)

[Prinler]

Alright.... Kinda mad... I only take my maxx to the corner lot... they put 6 foot piles of dirt... very ez and very ez to get up with a good start. .. My drive shaft broke.!!!!!!! I have no rear power.... Im so sad. What are the replacments for these? Upgrades? I have seen a CVD drive shaft replacment for the maxx... $120? I think that has to be wrong.... i mean ouchy. HELP!

[Soya]

Get Dynamite's CVD's for the center. Only $38 and solid steel:D

[Prinler]

OK i see the center drive shaft...... Says Drive shaft CVD for T-maxx.. they are both the same... arnt they?

let me know asap so i can buy these.

[Soya]

Yes, they are the same.

[Soya]

Doo doo do do doo, the chores!

[Hairball]

I thought that the E-Maxx had the same size center drive shafts, and the T-Maxx had two different sized ones.

[Soya]

I'm pretty sure they're the same.

[Hairball]

I'll bet money on the fact that they are different. The T-Maxx tranny is longer in the rear than the E-Maxxs

[Prinler]

Originally posted by E-MaxxDestroyer
Here's my E-Maxx. I run trinity heatsinks on the Titans to keep them cool. Even with these I have fried the EVX 6 times.:( I like to drive it the river though.....:p :rolleyes:

Click Here for More Pics. (http://hometown.aol.com/convoy315/myhomepage/gallery.html)




Hey E-MaxxDestroyer how do you make your E- Swim... with out blowing up? lol

[Grant Tokumi]

Hairball,
I'll take you up on that bet. I only have an EMAXX too, not a TMAXX so I don't know for sure, but I'd be willing to take on your bet. Just to clarify position, "I think the TMAXX uses the same length center shaft in the front and rear".

What shall we wager? A new TMAXX? Thats a bit much. Actually, I need a couple MAXX diff assemblies. That or a pair of CVDs (main drive axles, not center drive axles). How bout it?

[Hairball]

Well, here is my proof

T-Maxx

http://**************/ws/*******************************1779466052

http://**************/ws/*******************************1779805203

http://**************/ws/*******************************1780132119

E-Maxx

http://**************/ws/*******************************1779805229

(Its hard to see the *bones* but you can tell they are the same length in the baggy.

You can tell by the pictures that the shafts are in fact different lengths.

What do I win? :D :D

The stock plastic sliders will have the same part number for both trucks (E and T) because then are adjustable, where the CVDs are not.

[Hairball]

Ahhh Hell. Why is RCCA so f***ed up?

I have links to a few ebay auctions showing the difference, BUT NO!!! RCCA has to be jerks and not allow that sort of thing.

RCCA - GROW UP ALREADY!

[Lord Radeon]

ACtually, youre both right and wrong? The difference is the output shafts on the EMaxx tranny are 6MM and the outputs on the TMaxx are 5MM, so the drive cups Id (inner diameter) is slightly different by one millimeter. Hope that clears things up :-)

[Grant Tokumi]

TMAXX
http://ebay0.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_3ba308a9affa0a78581340f085ef82e5/i-1.JPG


EMAXX
http://users.sisna.com/hcamper/1/mip/mip1495.jpg

DOH!!
From your link, I got these pics. It might disappear in a few days though. Interesting. I thought I could wiggle out with a technicality (stock vs CVD), but seems the discussion was directly speaking to MIP CVDs. I lose. Darn it. I'm still gonna check my LHS to verify, but from the looks of it, you're right, EMAXX and TMAXX MIP center CVD kits are different kits. Good thing I didn't go with the new TMAXX. hahahaha. PM me your mailing address. I'll send new main drive CVDs out to ya.

[Hairball]

Really? Wow, how kind of you. :)

But since we never "offically" made this a wager, its not nessicary. Very kind of you though.

I've already got main drive CVDs all around my E-Maxx, just need to get a set of center ones.

[Grant Tokumi]

I lose, I pay fair and square, especially since I decided the wager. I'll purchase you a set of center drive "EMAXX" CVDs then. Hopefully, my loss will result in more savings to those out there thinking the TMAXX and EMAXX kits are the same. :)

[Hairball]

Well, If you insist! :D

Thank you kind Sir. I'll PM you with my mailing address.

[E-MaxxDestroyer]

How do I make my E swim without blowing up....hmmm........I rarely do! I just get on the throttle too much and throw water into the chassis and the esc. :rolleyes: One of the pics in the gallery shows that..... I just got it back from the last time(the one in the pic)

P.S. Anyone who wants to send me main drive CVD's is more than welcome to as I still need them in the front...:p

'Destroyer

[Grant Tokumi]

Lure me into a little bet that I feel I could win, and maybe you can just get yourself a new set of cvds. I felt pretty confident with my thinking that TMAXX and EMAXX center drives were the same length. I even had the TMAXX parts list and verified that the front and rear both used the same stock number. Not only was I wrong with length, Lord Radeon also added:

"difference is the output shafts on the EMaxx tranny are 6MM and the outputs on the TMaxx are 5MM, so the drive cups Id (inner diameter) is slightly different by one millimeter."

So even the stock center drives should be different between EMAXX and TMAXX.

I learned something.

[Hairball]

Me too. Didn't know the shafts were different diameters....

[Lord Radeon]

not the shafts themselves, just the outputs on the tranny. The inner diameter of the yokes are different by 1MM

;)

[Grant Tokumi]

"not the shafts themselves, just the outputs on the tranny."

Right. Thats what I meant. I wonder why the TMAXX would have a smaller diameter output shaft than the EMAXX? For clearance reasons?

[Soya]

Maybe the nitro doesn't have as much torque?

[Lord Radeon]

Why it is, I have no idea... torque could be why, like soya said. who knows

[Prinler]

Sum it up. The E-maxx needs the 1495 Cvd's right?


Everyone name off the CVD's your using....
XTM?
MIP?
Dynamite?

What do you got? what problems have you experienced? If you could do it all over what would you go with now and why?

I need a 10 page essay on this by tomorrow ... couldnt resist haha
Thanks for your imput guys... I dont have crap to spend on these but they are very needed part... only got front wheel drive atm HAHA

[Hairball]

I has Dynamite CVDs in the front and rear (stock sliders in the center right now).

The rear went on without issue. Prefect fit. The front I had to break out the dremel and grind on the cups a bit (took about 5 minutes) to get them to fit on the diff right.

I'm not sure if it was my diff, or the set of CVDs I got. Anyway, now that they are installed, they're great. No worries anymore.

[Soya]

Yep, mine too:)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Soya
Yep, mine too:)

You had to grind on yours too, or they were a perfect fit first try? I'm curious....

[Soya]

They fit fine.
I bent one of the shafts because I had the pivotballs too far in:rolleyes:

[Lord Radeon]

i'm using the MIPs for the prolnie kit, before these, the supermaxx, which were about twice as thick. those things were beef, wish i had the cash for some extended ones... mmm...

[civicds]

i just a e-maxx a week ago. love it. i put an atomik f-350 sd body w/ flames, and imex j-dawg tires on it plus i put orion v-maxx 2400's in it and this thing can haul. i beat my friends touring car in a drag race, im impressed. tip: dont punch the gas from a standstill unless you want to land on your roof every time. on the power vs. the t-maxx it puts the t-maxx to shame in brute strenght, outpulled many t-maxxes. i plan on getting mip cvd's but i dont know what are the best motors.

[Grant Tokumi]

Hairball (and others),

I'm having a tough time locating a set of MIP CVD center drives for the EMAXX. I've checked my 2 LHS and both are out. Checked Tower Hobbies (website and phone call), and they apparently don't carry that part no more. Checked Stormer Hobbies website and they show the part in their catalog, but its says "out of stock". Can anyone help me find somewhere (website) that has these so I can pay off a debt? :)

[Soya]

Ebay:)

[Hairball]

ebay auction # 1782118076

Its weird that they don't have em for sale anywhere else....

[Burnout]

Well I been gone for awhile. Now I'm back and got a few things for my Maxx. Well my Maxx isn't quite done yet, I still have to replace the red springs with blue and get Trinity or AE motorsinks. And of course there are little things I would like to do with it. The body hasn't been mounted yet and obviously I haven't applied any stickers yet to it. So far I have added white RPM arms, blue RPM bulkhead braces, Dynamite chassis braces (EZ off'ed the blue), Powerline shock towers (EZ Offed the blue), Trinity Batterstraps (ez offed the blue), Xtm blue wheelnuts =P, Imex Baja maxxes, Orion painted PL Excersion body, and TRC offroad wide offset wheels.

[Burnout]

more pics

[Burnout]

more.

[Soya]

I can tell by the color of your arms that you haven't driven it yet;)

[Burnout]

Wow, you sure know whats up. That is what I forgot to mention. I haven't ran my truck since I bought it! I only ran it once at the sellers house, and very few times up and down my living room. Since I don't have a charger my batteries have died (I had the previous owner charge the batts for me). Instead of spending all my money on parts I know I should've gotten a charger! But I couldn't let my truck get dirty yet until I am satisfied with what I have done to my Maxx. I hope you guys think my truck is atleast decent.

[Soya]

Yes, it's quite cool:)

[Lord Radeon]

love the tires/wheels. look great

[tadium54]

yah, it looks like it would give mine a run for it's money.

[Burnout]

Thanks for the compliments guys! Yeah I just purchased those TRC Offroad wheels like 3 days ago. I absolutely love them. And they are also pretty cheap for aftermarket wheels($11.99). Well before these rims I had Proline Super Singles on them, it must be something about it but they certainly did not go too well with my combination. Although Proline's chrome finish is flawless, the TRC's chrome finish had lots of dullness and spots in it (in other words, poor finish). Thats the only thing that I am not happy about.

[Burnout]

No more pics for now.

[super_maxx]

hey thats a nice truck

o ya how do you get the big pics on here... i tried and it saids the picture is TOO BIG its making me mad!!!

thanks


*SM*

[Hairball]

When you save the JPG file, reduce the quailty (not resolution) to make the files smaller...

[Burnout]

Hmmm...I am a total dumbarse when it comes to digi cam stuff. I use my bro's cam, so its all set up already. And whenever I try to post pics in here and it says too big, all I do is go back to whatever program I use (MS Paint) then trimm the backgrounds down. I never resize it because it comes out awful using MS Paint. I lost a lot of quality. You can also set up the pic size on your digicam. I assume all cams have this feature. Anyways this is how I do it and thanks for the compliment!

[Lord Radeon]

If you want a pic to be posted, just email it to me at kamanawannalaya@swirvemail.com

I'll format it and compress it so it can be posted with good quality and small size

[super_maxx]

ygm Lord

[Lord Radeon]

Here are dominic (super maxx) 's pics

[Lord Radeon]

2

[NitroRookie]

Can I use WD-40 to clean my Titan motor. Or can you tell me what I can use to clean my Titans.

[Lord Radeon]

Dont use wd-40, it leaves some nasty residue that will trash your motor. Go buy some electric motor cleaner. It's labeled electric motor cleaner. Any auto parts, or warehouse (wal-mart, home depot, etc) will carry it,

[tadium54]

Who made the aluminum chassis from a stock T maxx chassis? I need to do that to mine to get it back up running!

[tadium54]

Also, how does everyone find the MX-3? I am thinking of getting it too.

[super_maxx]

i love the MX-3 its very cheap to ( 109.99) also it works great, also i think it's the best hopups around for your money!!:D



thanks

[Lord Radeon]

i believe it was soya with the TMaxx chassis. I'm also getting the mx-3 for christmas...

[NitroRookie]

What would you guys suggest I use to clean my E-Maxx motors ?

[Lord Radeon]

Electric motor cleaner!

[NitroRookie]

Which electric motor cleaner should I use ?

P.S. What brand name electric motor cleaner ?

[Lord Radeon]

they're all the same. the cheapest stuff works fine

[nmt6789]

Hi this is my first post on this board. I was on the hpi forum for a long time but now they closed it. I am thinking of buying an E-maxx. Are the motors that come with it good? I have seen in the previous pictures on this board that people have changed their motors. What kind of motors can you put in a stock e-maxx to make it faster?

[Hairball]

In order to have true E-Maxx fun, go brushless. :)

[Lord Radeon]

I'm green with envy over guys with BL setups. At my local track I can outrun all but the fastest drivers on the track in lap times. my truck even on 7 cell nuclear batteries cant keep up to any of the nitro motors out there. But, I'm the best truck driver there, hands down. it teaches you how to drive, when you have to drive well to win races and earn respect. i'm getting bl for christmas. rock on :cool:

[Soya]

Why on Earth would you envy me?
I was rummaging around the Ballistic Batteries site and noticed something outrageous. Two 3300 7 cells packs are $174!! That's $12.50 per cell!! That's on the edge of extortion!!:eek:

[Lord Radeon]

sanyo 3300s are crap, GPs are much better, and cheaper. try pro-match

[Hairball]

Screw that.

Stick with tried and true 2400 NiCD cells. 3000s are good, but still a big wiggy.

[nmt6789]

I have seen how much brushless costs and its pretty expensive. Do the motos hae to be 550 motors are could i put two 540 motors in???

[Soya]

Yes, you could....
Try Kyosho's Magnetic Mayhem 22X1. It's a 550, but has ungodly amounts of torque. And they're under $20:D

[tadium54]

Hmm, I must look into some aftermarket motors, aswell as the always growing list of stuff my e maxx needs.

[nmt6789]

I saw the aftermarket motors made by reedy i think and they had three kinds, wild, mild and pro if you got two pro motos would you have to change the esc???

[Lord Radeon]

reedy motors suck :-p

[Soya]

At least the 550's do. Mine did, anyway.

[Hairball]

Question.

Does anyone know the 7.2v modified motor equivelent of the 14.4v Titan motor?

thanks

-Andy

[Lord Radeon]

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/speed600.htm


The 7.2 volt motor on this page is the 7.2 volt titan equivalent. cheers

[Hairball]

LR -

Thank you, but not exactly what I was looking for. More.

Titan power output = X

540 7.2 mod motor = X

See?

Like, 8x1? 10x2? 14x3?

How does it compare up?

thanks

[Lord Radeon]

Titan = 1,500 rpm/volt

so... 14.4 volts * 1500 rpm/volt =
or.... 16.8 volts (7 cell packs)

21,600 rpm on 6 cell packs.
25,200 rpm on 7 cell packs.


Graupner 7.2V motor = 2,930 rpms/volt
Which is rougly the same speed as a titan on half the voltage of a titan, thus the 7.2 volt titan equivalent. Hope that made sense, cheers

[nmt6789]

At www.rumrunnerhobbies.com they have a selection of brushless motors. I want a pretty good setup. They have the basic 4200 motor and they suggest the warrior 7018/2bec controller. Is this setup any good?? How fast will it go? Should i think about getting a better one or is that one good?? Sorry for the long post

[Soya]

Go to the Brushless Forum for all your BL needs:)

[Hairball]

Got a link to the "Brushless Forum"?

thanks

[Soya]

This probably won't work....

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=772976#post772976

[Lord Radeon]

NMT: that setup is plenty faster than stock, just not as torquey. geared right, it'll be really close torque-wise, but still still have much more top speed.

[Prinler]

E-Maxx's are Fing loud. Does anyone know the equizelant to the stock setup? or better yet the optimal set up if i went to 48p? Im sure some of you have or have tryed 48p. Lemme know if im crazy,

Prinler

[Hairball]

I'm assuming you're talking about 48 pitch gears (spur and pinions).

It would be the same number or teeth for all the gears. The gears are just smaller and not as strong as 32 pitch gears.

Most of the noise comes from inside the tranny though, and there is not much you can do about that.

[Prinler]

Nothing i can do? yikes. it sounds worse then a cat in a tin trashcan. Is horrible. Especiall running at 2 am. Guess i will have to get the parts for my pro2. mayve i will get a 6 turn brushless. And Replace parts with alum as they break :) hehe then i will know the week parts :)


On a second thought. Rent out the brushless. For people who want to test the strength of there maxx's parts. *scratches his head* people will pay for anything these days lol

I seen an ebay auction for used undies. Now who the hell? or even used socks?

Stevep

[Hairball]

At first, your "rent out the brushless" idea sounded quite appealing! Then I thought about the damage you can cause with an E-Maxx traveling 50 mph....

"Sure, its 10 per run, and please sign these waivers, and I'll need to hold your credit card in case you break it, and you have health insurance right??"

A brushless E-Maxx setup correctly is a torpedo on wheels just waiting to break some poor bastard's leg....


-Andy

[Soya]

Or break half the parts on the truck, as I found out:p

[Lord Radeon]

I'm looking at a 5 turn lehner 1930/5 motor brushless system for christmas... heh heh heh....:eek: :D :D

[Hairball]

I was thinking about that same motor, but TWO. The E-Maxx has mounts for two motors, so I'm damn well going to use two. :p

But the price of the controllers from Lehner is outrageous! $400!! Ya, ok....... NOT!

[Lord Radeon]

two of those would put out about 4.5 HP... lol... insane...

[Hairball]

Thats the idea... :p

[Soya]

One is fine, TRUST ME. With the stock gearing and 12 cells, mine was pushing 50:eek: :D

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Soya
One is fine, TRUST ME. With the stock gearing and 12 cells, mine was pushing 50:eek: :D

I know one would be fine, BUT I WANT TWO DAMNIT! :p :p

I know I'm nuts, but its me money, and I'll spend it however I want, thank you. hehehe

[Lord Radeon]

donate me some :-p

[Prinler]

Hmmm drop the suspention. Put a TC body on it. Low pro tires. oh oh dont forget the wings. See if you can make it lift off the ground. 2 motors. 12 cells. yeah i think we have a winner. Darwin awards here you come :p


On a different note. Is the Brushless your talking about the best? I mean hacker makes better dont they?


lastly :) how do i shut my maxx up. It makes lots of gear noise. Even after i removed the motors and cleaned them with motor spray. Any ideas? I want it to pur like a little kitten :p

[Prinler]

Can you guys post picks how you have the cells attached? for more then 6 cell packs? Thanks

[TitansGT4]

Hey guys whats up? christmas is comin up soon.........guesss whats santas bringin this year?! TRAXXAS EMAXX time baby! i hav a TMaxx(the old 1) n' i liked it, but im tired of nitro n' i wanna go back 2 electric. I heard this truck is great,and it must be cause it was the truck of the year. I wanted to know what battery packs I should get with the truck. Should I get special E-maxx packs or buy 4 3000's separately?(i know the truck runs on 2 batteries, but i want 4 so i can rotate) And are the run times really bad after you put a mod motor in there? I luv this truck cause i know it works great w/ the suspension and all and plus most of the (aluminum) upgrades I have on the Tmaxx i can just transfer 2 the E:D . Anyways guys any opinions would be great talk 2 you all later!

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Prinler
Hmmm drop the suspention. Put a TC body on it. Low pro tires. oh oh dont forget the wings. See if you can make it lift off the ground. 2 motors. 12 cells. yeah i think we have a winner. Darwin awards here you come :p
On a different note. Is the Brushless your talking about the best? I mean hacker makes better dont they?
lastly :) how do i shut my maxx up. It makes lots of gear noise. Even after i removed the motors and cleaned them with motor spray. Any ideas? I want it to pur like a little kitten :p

Its supposed to make noise silly. Honeslty, its just noise by design. Something you have to live with. :)

There is a big debate about Hacker Vs. Lehner. I honestly don't know which is best, but I know Lehner controllers are $200 MORE. Hmmm..... :p

Drop the suspension - Check.
TC Body - Naa, I like the truck body
2 motors, 12 cells a piece - I was thinking more like 8 cells per motor, for a total of 16.

Darwin awards? No. T-Maxx killing brushless powerhouse? Yes.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Prinler
Can you guys post picks how you have the cells attached? for more then 6 cell packs? Thanks

I'll try and get a pic or two up tonight...

-Andy

[Prinler]

12 cells per motor? ACK! how? lol

[Soya]

Use the Dynamite 4 battery chassis. I would if my motor wasn't limited to 12:(

[civicds]

The gears would'nt be the same number of teeth. Because of the size difference this would create a whole new gear ratio that wouldn't be the same. I race touring cars and trust me this kind of racing is all about gear ratios. By the way stick w/ 32p if you want to keep your gears.

[Lord Radeon]

hacker is powerful, but lehner is more powerful. the controllers are more, because the motors pull tons more amps. the 1930/5 is a FIVE TURN brushless motor. IT pulls close to 4000 rpm/volt, and has insane torque. it's also longer then the hacker (torque). It's the most powerful production single motor out there for the EMaxx atm, bar none

[Hairball]

How do the the Lehners match up against the Modeltech B50 8T motors?

Blow em out of the water?

[Lord Radeon]

Your thinking hacker B50 motors. And yes, no comparison whatsoever. Top end is roughly the same, but lehners out-torque the hackers by a huge margin, and can gear up with that torque for more speed. :cool:

[Lord Radeon]

I'm planning on getting a Lehner 1930/5 Motor with a Hacker Master Competition ESC... 111 amps, only costs $240... great price for a brushless ESC of high amperage, it was just released. Can't wat for Xmas :D :D :D

[Prinler]

Hey lord, How much is your purchase going to be?

[Lord Radeon]

$190 for motor, $240 for controller. So, I'd say $430... :-)

[Prinler]

Payed less then that on my fiance' s ring! Jeepers weepers were'ed ya get that much cash? lol
how hard is it to install a brushless set up? If i purchased a motor and controler ..... would it run good just like that? with stock gearing to start out with?

[Lord Radeon]

You have to regear, because brushless puts out about 2.5x the amount of rpms of the titans with same batts.... lol... but it's VERY simple and easy to use. Money will be from christmas and a job :-p

[Soya]

My Hacker has 4173 RPM/Volt:D

[Soya]

Bum Bum Bum Bum Bum Bum Bum Bum Bum Bum....

[Lord Radeon]

Alls quiet in EMaxxville

[tadium54]

when i get a chassis and the rest of my gear, it won't be

[Skribble]

would it run good just like that? with stock gearing to start out with?You'd probably want to upgrade your tranny first. Kippster Diff Cups with RRP Hardened Gears ..

[JeffK95Z]

Hey guys, i'm looking to get me an E-Maxx and start to build myself a nice fun somewhat in-expensive hobby...

What i'm wondering is, how much of a difference is the new style E-Maxx suspension, compared to an E-Maxx with the pro-line suspension kit?

I know that when I get my truck (really thinking about buying new) that i'll be wanting to upgrade some parts. (I've been racing street cars at local 1/4 mile tracks for the past 5 years so i'm never happy with stock :))

OR I could just buy used with some parts already upgraded for a killer deal, and sink the cash that I saved right back into the truck for more upgrades...

I see lots of the older style (non widemaxx susp.) for sale, but i'm not too sure on the differences, if any...

If anyone can comment or give opinions on buying used and freshening it up vs. buying new stock I'd LOVE to hear them.

Thanks and I look forward to the information!

Jeff

[PCC]

I'm not an E-Maxx owner (yet!) but I do have some insight into the suspensions available.

I was asking at my LHS about the three plastic suspension upgrades available (Traxxas 2.5, RPM 2.5, and ProLine WideMaxx) and they told me that the Traxxas suspension is flexible and will break. The ProLine is stiffer but still breaks. The RPM is very stiff and has a lifetime guarantee so it doesn't matter if it breaks.

Now, how does this relate to your question? If you buy the new E-Maxx with the wide suspension you will probably replace the suspension with RPM stuff eventually. If you start with an older Maxx, upgrading can be more difficult. When I upgraded my older T-Maxx to the wider stance I also replaced the older, weaker sliders with the newer, stronger ones. Not at all hard to do (hardest part was assembling the sliders themselves) but the newer E-Maxx should already come with these.

In short, I would buy new and replace parts as they break.

[JeffK95Z]

PCC, thx for the reply dude...

I also like the idea of going new and just replace stuff as it breaks... Not only do i know the entire life of the truck then, but I also learn alot from my trials and experience with a truly stock truck...

But then I see used ones going for signifigantly less then a new one, and know that I could have a badass machine for the price of a brand new one...

thankfully? christmas has broken me, so it'll be jan. at least before I buy, so lots of time for research!!

Thanks again,

Jeff

[Hairball]

Originally posted by PCC
I'm not an E-Maxx owner (yet!) but I do have some insight into the suspensions available.

I was asking at my LHS about the three plastic suspension upgrades available (Traxxas 2.5, RPM 2.5, and ProLine WideMaxx) and they told me that the Traxxas suspension is flexible and will break. The ProLine is stiffer but still breaks. The RPM is very stiff and has a lifetime guarantee so it doesn't matter if it breaks.

Now, how does this relate to your question? If you buy the new E-Maxx with the wide suspension you will probably replace the suspension with RPM stuff eventually. If you start with an older Maxx, upgrading can be more difficult. When I upgraded my older T-Maxx to the wider stance I also replaced the older, weaker sliders with the newer, stronger ones. Not at all hard to do (hardest part was assembling the sliders themselves) but the newer E-Maxx should already come with these.

In short, I would buy new and replace parts as they break.

Get the SuperMaxx stuff. It won't break on you. :)

[Lord Radeon]

All plastic breaks. Doh. But your hobby guy has it wrong. The TRX wide arms, are the most flexy, with RPM in the middle, and ProLine as the stiffest. As for breakage, there really is no noticeable difference. It takes a !#($)&!#$ to break suspension arms, and if your putting that much stress on your parts, then any of the plastic pieces WILL break. If it's that much cheaper, just buay a used MAXX and buy a PL kit for it. Economical, and you end up better in the end. Spend the extra cash on some good batts or a better servo/charger


In other news, i managed to waller out a gear post inside my hitec 5945MG servo. I have no idea how it happened, but alas, it did. Gotta love 2 year warranties ^_^. Hitec has the greatest customer service. cheers

~LR

[Lord Radeon]

As hairball also said, Supermaxx is a great way to go. stormer hobbies sells the widetrac kit for around $160.... awesome price for what you get. EXT arms, turnbuckles, hingepins, and shock towers. Nice stuff.




Oh, and I've never broken a maxx arm since i've owned my truck

[Soya]

I have, but that's because I ran it into a basketball post at full tilt:p

[tadium54]

Hey guys, about to get soem cash for christmas, and heres my list of rc stuff that I am getting:


Ballistic stupidity
-aluminum chassis braces
- front and rear aluminum skidplates
- aluminum servo skidplate

RPM
-bumpers
-arms

HB
- 8 aluminum threaded shocks

Airtronics
-MX-3

lunsford
hingepin and turnbuckle combo

RRP
32 pitch pinnions

traxxas
-diff spool
-maxx chassis(the one i have now is fried lol)



And i would like some aluminum bulkheads




What do you guys think?

[supernitro_guy1]

wow! Im impressed with the e-maxx's potential! my cousin's hopped-up e-maxx smoked a 2.5 t-maxx so bad that the t-maxx driver almost went home crying and he sold his t-maxx, LOL I never thought that e-maxx could be that fast, or maybe i've been living in a cave!

[Lord Radeon]

I can smoke just about every TMaxx at our track. On stock motors, I turned the second fastest monster truck time ever, second to Richard Abernathy, great T maxx racer. Though my truck isnt nearly as fast as the T'x in the straights, on 7 cells, it's close enough. I can smoke them all in the technical sections of the track. Not only because of the torque of the motors, but because my truck is the best handling truck out there. I like to think that a good driver counts too. My laps are all within 2 tenths of a second within each other, and unless I get in a tangle, don't flip or get stuck but maybe once in a race. My favorite part about EMaxxing, is watching the crowd awe at the lone electric, beating out 7 or 8 TMaxxes for #1 spot. It's a gratifying thing. I never win the mains, because of battery runtime issues VS gas, but I usually always TQ, because quals are only 6 minutes long. It's brought back the fun of racing for me. Beats 1/10 scale stadium truck gas anyday.

~

Tadium, your list looks good, but I suggest you ditch the Al skids, and save for Ti or stick with the stockers. Al bends too easily. Also consider the dynamite/losi shocks over the HB shocks. They have no caps, so they don't leak, and the design is superior to any other 1/10 shock out there. Not any more expensive either. Just a suggestion, I LOVE mine. Like I said though, the rest looks good.

[tadium54]

Lord, thanks.

I won't be going back to the stock ones, because I have broken 3 already. If i have the cash at hand, titanium sounds very nice. I can get the shocks for a good price, but thanks for the feedback.

[Soya]

That's alotta cash!
BTW, Lord Radeon, you can get down off your soapbox now:p

[Lord Radeon]

naw-uh, its my soapbox... i think my saving grace is they can't drive. i'd be in trouble if they could:p :rolleyes: :p

[Prinler]

Alright. Back to the basics... What do you guys (or did you) use to lube the Titan motors? Im using the same lube i always have but these ones, after a little run in, are squaking at me. from lack of lube. Wheres it all going... what would you suggest i do?

[Lord Radeon]

Never lubed the titans except right when i got me truck. They don't really need it... the only things you can lube are the bushings. Any bushing lube would do just fine

[Prinler]

Then what is this noise? I pull the trigger. its ok at low rpm's ... then alittle more. and one motor starts to sqeeeeeeeeeek Wiiiiine ect... Whats going on?

[Lord Radeon]

Sounds like a thrown bearing somewhere in your drivetrain. Also check gear mesh, and make sure your pinions are tight

[supernitro_guy1]

check the ball bearings

[civicds]

Has anyone seen 1 of the new e-maxxes w/the wide track suspension go? I have, my friend just got 1 and I have the older e-maxx. I've heard that the new e-maxx is faster so my friend and I drag raced. I'll remind you that he had 2 3000 cells and I had 2 2400s. Who won? me of course. The new e-maxx has a little more on acceleration but I still blew it away. As for the batts my 2400s have a little bit more punch than his 3000s. But I guess it doesnt matter now because all the new t-maxxes and e-maxxes come with this wide track suspension.

[Lord Radeon]

The new and old EMaxx are exactly the same speed... the only difference is the driveshafts, and suspension

[JeffK95Z]

Ok guys...

I've decided that when I get my E-Maxx (still a few months) It'll be a used one, so its cheaper and I can spend more on upgrades...

I've been reading that bulkheads are a problematic item, along with driveshafts... So replace the bulkheads (these are the main mounting point on the front and rear of the truck? where all your suspension attachs and all that stuff?) And as for driveshafts, I hear CVD's, again, not too sure on these...

I know NOTHING about radio's, but I've seen some of the more knowledgable (at least I think so, heheh) say they're getting/have a MX-3? Radio... Is it an Airtronics radio? (I think thats the company) How hard is it to swap freq.'s on these radios, as I will definately wanna hang out with other RC'ers and no doubt there will be conflicts... I'm not sure whats involved with changing freq's either so some kinda physical description would be great as well... I heard talk of crystals, but I don't have a clue what those are or what it means :)

I'll be fine with the stock motors, but what about servo's? And I've been noticing that some radios come with servo's? Are the servo's that come with radios worth using? Or do you hardcore people go with a standalone unit or something... Also, I'm assuming that the radio will control the servo directly, so the servo must have some sort of receiver? Or does it just run electrionly, and there is one main receiver in the truck and it sends singles to the different units (speed control, which is the EVX or something?, hehe and the servo's, which are used to control steering and gear changing?)

sorry for so many questions, but again i'm new to this and even tho i've been reading alot here and on other sites, it doesn't really explain alot of this stuff in detail enough for me :)

But thanks everyone!

Jeff

[civicds]

wow jeff you got a lot to learn. The mx-3 is a airtronics radio and yes it does come with a servo and reciever. as for swaping crystals its a breeze. you have about 30 different frequencys you can run on 75mhz and 6 for 27mhz. And generally the more advanced racers have fm radio systems. go to your local hobby shop and they should give you a hand.

[Lord Radeon]

Jeff... the stock radio works fine, it's not a necessary upgrade, and i'd suggest putting the money in a good charger or batteries before you upgrade it.

Bulkheads are the only major trouble spot on the truck. They DONT BREAK A LOT, but they do break from time to time. In 3 months, i've broken three sets. Alum is nice, but expensive. driveshafts will break over time, they just cant handle the electric torque.

Servos that come with radios are generally junk $8 servos that aren't worth using in your truck. A good servo would be anything over 110 oz/in torque and under .15sec transmit time. I personally recommend the Hitec 5945MG servo... 180 oz/in and .13sec transmit time, all metal gears. I've used several of them over the past two years, and they're flawless. Hitec has the best customer service. The servo's retail for $90. Consider one of them in place of a new radio.



Crystals are little two-prong metal pieces. no bigger then three dimes stacked together, they are what controls frequency. They have two prongs on one end, which is inserted into the radio. Changing is as simple as taking one out, and swapping with another.

[JeffK95Z]

Thx for the replies guys!

Ok, so i'll live with the stock radio (Does it run on the 75mhz, so I have lots of options for freq's? Or would I be limited to the 27mhz and only 6 freq's as per civicds post?)

When I buy my used truck, honestly plan on going through it completely... Both to confirm every is in order and to get familar with the workings of the truck. So I plan on upgrading most parts (I'm hoping to make this into a big hobby of mine, but only time will tell). Is Alum the best for upgraded hardware, such as bulkheads?

And are cvd's different then driveshafts? Or just a different way of connecting the driveshafts to the diff's? (I assume it works that way, driveshafts coming out of the tranny into the diff's which spin axles and then wheels?)

And then how about suspension peices like A-Arms and such, whats the common weak point there thats easy to upgrade?

Again, thanks for the patience and kind answers guys!!

Jeff

[Lord Radeon]

CVDs are different. They are fixed length metal shafts. They won't break on ya :cool:

Stock radio is limited to 27 mhz band, but that hasnt been an issue for me. Even racing, theres always 2 or 3 freqs open.

Aluminum is good for

Ladder braces
Bulkheads
Bulkhead braces
Shocks (Another good upgrade... stockers arent that great)
Titanium skidplates are good investments, aluminum bends too easily to be used for skids.
Ti turnbuckles & hinge pins
Consider also motor heatsinks.

If you have an old style mass with short arms, buy a pro-line wide suspension kit. GREAT investment, cheap, and excellent products. You get arms, Ti turnbuckles, and shock towers



Also, buy a receiver battery pack. It will power your servos with full voltage. If you buy one, clip the red wire on the EVX's input to the receiver, and plug the battery into the battery slot on the receiver, or buy a switch for it. Either way works

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
CVDs are different. They are fixed length metal shafts. They won't break on ya :cool:


Unless you go brushless of course. Normal CVDs will snap like twigs with a good brushless setup. You'll need something stronger like SuperMaxx steel or titanium CVDs. Center CVDs too.

And the steel idler gears in the tranny arent a bad idea either.

But for a stock motor e-maxx, things like MIP or ProLine CVDs are a great investment.

[JeffK95Z]

How do you guys feel about buying a rolling chasis and building a Brushless Maxx?

I think i've seen the cost to be rather expensive (400 or so for the motor and controller? Cuase you can't use the EVX?)... But I mean, why not do it right the first time... In the long run, it'll save money :)

Also, I've seen some video's of trucks that pull the wheels like crazy... Thats almost too much power! (note, almost ;)) So perhaps I shouldn't even think about brushless...

Ok ok :)

but thanks guys, I've a great list of parts to watch out for and such when looking into used trucks... I've been keeping an eye out on E-Bay and you can get some killer deals there for already hopped up trucks... So I think i'll be watching closer in the coming months!

Jeff

[Lord Radeon]

Ebay's great. You can get anything cheap there. I can pull wheelies like crazy with stock motors... heh...

[Hairball]

Originally posted by JeffK95Z
How do you guys feel about buying a rolling chasis and building a Brushless Maxx?


Thats what I wish I would have done. I would have saved MEGA money.. :)

-Andy

[JeffK95Z]

Hairball, do you run a brushless setup now?

Lord, how do you feel about Brushless?

And Soya? I think i remember seeing you post you were going for a brushless setup as well?

I'm reading some sites now on brushless setups
http://www.gtdodd.demon.co.uk/emaxx/test1.htm
That one in particular is quite good!! But i'm only in a few pages, but it was done back in 2001 and i'm sure the technology has improved since then...

When I visited my local hobby shop, they mentioned brushless like it wasn't available yet so I don't think anyone there runs one...

Also, the issue I have with lhs's is that they are they're own little group... I prefer to do my research online where we have lots of different people from all over the world giving input on alot of different styles... I find I get a better idea of whats going on this way :)

I hope i'm not bringing up old info as I know how painful it can be to watch day after day someone bringing up the same 'ol info :)

BUT, i've read just about this whole post and I didn't really find the info i'm looking for, and honestly, i'd rather ask the questions myself so I can direct the flow, hehe.

Bare with me guys, again, i'm quite new... And I just wanna do this right the first time. I don't mind spending the cash on the truck (I'm 25, work in the IT field for the past 5 years, race street cars at the local track - 95 Z-28 thats mildly modifed) and I figure i'll spend 1,000 to 1,500 Canadian on this to start out my hobby...

Thx for all the info however!! I look forward to lots more :)

Jeff

[JeffK95Z]

just got to page 2 of the above mentioned site...

Holy ****... this crazy mofo installed 2 brushless motors!!!

heheh

insanity at its best :)

[Lord Radeon]

Best brushless combo out there is a lehner 1930/5 motor and a hacker master comp controller


The motor is $190, the controller $240. That's $430 for a top-of-the-line brushless setup.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by JeffK95Z
Hairball, do you run a brushless setup now?


No, not yet. I'm building my E-Maxx up a little at a time for the brushless motors. Yes, thats motors, I'm installing two. :D

http://home.jps.net/~hairball/stuff/Dscn1431.jpg

Thats my E-Maxx so far. I JUST got the SuperMaxx Wide Trac suspension system in the mail today, so I'll be installing that later.

My E-Maxx started out as an idea to build a stock e-maxx COMPLETELY out of parts bought of ebay. Nothing bought in a store. I completed that about six months ago. I ran the E-Maxx stock for quite awhile, but wasnt impressed with the power it had. Just not enough for my tastes...

So the only logical solution was to tear it completely apart and do it right this time.

But, I also just bought a Kyosho Inferno MP7.5 Kanai 1/8th scale buggy, and I'm going to start racing that in February, so that may slow this project down a little. But I'm in no rush to spend $900 on brushless motors, so it'll happen when it happens. :p :p

[Lord Radeon]

I envy you. The carbon fiber, and the schocks/springs contrast look quite sexy on that truck. Going to get the carbon fiber chassis for christmas... quite excited.

[Soya]

Yes, I've got a BL setup. Wicked fast in a Maxx; with stock gearing, somewhere around 40. I'm using it in my project truck now:D
Here's what it looked like:

[Lord Radeon]

OH jeff, wise investment. Go to wal-mart and spend $10 on a big thing of 1000 assorted zip-ties. You won't regret it. Zip ties are a necessity :-) just look at soya's truck... teehee

[Soya]

Yes, Zipties are a gift from God:D

[JeffK95Z]

hehehe, zipties duely noted :)

I found this site in my searchs

http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com

They have Brushless E-Maxx packages with the Lehner motors... But not the hacker controllers...

They sell a 1930 Lehner for 212 bucks... No doubt US (this damnable conversion kills me everytime!! I'm unfortunately all too familar with it... I order all my car parts from the States too)

Ahhh, a better site...

http://www.finedesignrc.com/

They have the Lehner motors as well as the Hacker Master comp's... But they only list the 1930 w/ 6 turn (I assume thats what yer talkin about with the 5?)

And so, the motors are rated @ 30 amps... So I need to look for a controller that is capable of those amps, but does anything else affect the controller? its JUST speed control right? And brakes of course...

This place has the Hacker comps, the but most expensive one it 225 bucks (Master/Navy 99 Waterproof, water-cooled and pistol grip compatible) And its rated for 99 amps!! I'm pretty sure its meant for a boat, heheh

They have another one however, thats rated for 40 amps (wouldn't that be enough? As the motor is only rated for 30?) The Master 40 that has some sort of BEC option *shrug* that runs 105...

www.hackerbrushless.com is pretty neat too... They have a killer E-Maxx setup!

Performance: Low Gear
In Low gear on pavement E-Maxx will instantly "Flip" when the throttle is pulled to quickly Note: For extended run time (10 min+) the low gear should be selected.


hehehe... But thats what I want... the extended run time! Of course the extra power, but I would like 15-20 minutes of run time if possible... Certinally not just 5-10. I do plan on getting some great batteries so that should help towards it.

http://www.hackerbrushless.com/cars/otd/emax_otd.shtml

They do however list they're top of the line controllers with BEC
Master CAR Sport $199.00

------------
Enough of that for now... I wanna go back and drool over Hairball's ride... My god man that looks great ;)
But seriously, wouldn't 2 BL motors be total over kill? Like I pasted above, from a stop going full throttle will result in a complete flip! Not just nice wheelies, but off the wall end over end, hehe.

But this is another decision thats been made... I'll go the used route for chassis and brushless setup :) Oh the fun to be had!

Soya, I think i've seen another post from you about your project truck? A custom chassis n all? Hows it coming along, or are you done?

Thanks again guys!! Even tho my wallet won't :)

Jeff

[Soya]

Not quite done, but getting there:D

[tadium54]

Same here. Luckily, i have 2 weeks off that are called the Christmas Holidays!:D

During that, i will take my cash i get for christmas, drop it all into the new bank account(old one charged me for DEPOSITING into my account from the home branch), go to a hobby store, and let the good times go!

My truck is still stripped down, but hopefully not for much longer

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
I envy you. The carbon fiber, and the schocks/springs contrast look quite sexy on that truck. Going to get the carbon fiber chassis for christmas... quite excited.

Thanks! Its been a slow project, but still keeps my interest.

And you think that last pic was sexy, check this out -

http://www.jps.net/~hairball/smside.jpg

I just got done installing the SuperMaxx Wide Trac suspension system. Best stuff out there if you ask me.

[tadium54]

hairball- prepare to have your truck stolen!:D just kiddin

That is one sexy truck. do you still have the shifter in there?? i canm't see the mont for it. What BL sysytem are you planning on using?

thx