E-Maxx Forum v1.0

[Lord Radeon]

Jeff, the lehner motor is $189 at rum runner. It shows that price under your order page, not on the maiin page. :-)

The hacker master car comp controller is on this page

http://pages.infinit.net/icarerc/motor-controls.htm

[Lord Radeon]

Note: You need the COMP controller (111 amps) the sport controller isn't powerful enough for a lehner motor. it will overheat, and thermal

[JeffK95Z]

Thx for the pages Lord!

So i'm looking at a large list of expensive parts to start shopping for :)

but I'm figuring this is the best way to do it... Rather then just spend 600 on a new truck (Canadian) I can peice it together myself and have something that I won't need to upgrade and will destroy just about everything around!! hehehe Fun Fun!!

So i'm going to go with the SuperMaxx Wide-Trac Suspension (while the EXT looks killer, its NASTY in price!)

Bulkheads would need to be upgraded... I've only seen mention of GA 7075 alum ones thus far, but they're supposedly the best?

Make sure all the driveshafts/cvd's are Titanium... So there are how many of these exactly? 2 going from the tranny to the diff's, and then 2 from each diff to the wheels? So 6 in total?

some kind of slipper for the tranny? Along with steel idler gear

And upgraded Diff's... Any recommendations here?

Anyone think of anything else i'm forgetting...

Of course the batteries and chargers and other electrionics, but i'll get into that later... For now i'm just concerned with solid-state componets...

Thanks guys!! I can't wait to start getting this beast together!!

Jeff

[civicds]

Does any one know anything about torsion diffs? they are made for 1/8 scale buggies i guess and i've seen people put them in t-maxxes and was wondering if you could put them in a e-maxx? Also brushless is better from what you guys say but I plan to make my e-maxx into a rock crawler so how would that work out w/a brushless setup or would I be better off sticking w/stock motors and locked diffs. thanks for the input and hope to have pics soon.

[Lord Radeon]

Torsen diffs are nice, but they can't handle BL torque... they'll work with stock motors if you have 1/8 diff cases from Trophy Class or UE

[Hairball]

Originally posted by tadium54
hairball- prepare to have your truck stolen!:D just kiddin

That is one sexy truck. do you still have the shifter in there?? i canm't see the mont for it. What BL sysytem are you planning on using?

thx

Yes, still has the shifter. I just haven't mounted the servo up yet. :) Lazy I guess.....

Right now the Hacker C50 motors are in the lead. Lehner seems good too, but for the ESCs I'd have to use, it would cost me $200 more PER esc ($800 for two ESCs is insane).

So, Hacker is winning right now.

[Soya]

I have a Hacker:D

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Soya
I have a Hacker:D

Is it worthy? Which model?

[Soya]

Is it worthy?!? Surely you jest! It's ungodly. I have the B508S. It's one mean mother SHUT YO MOUTH! I was jus' talkin' 'bout Hacker:D

[Hairball]

I was looking at the C50 8T model. How many cells do you run yours on?

I *really* want to go dual brushless, but I may end up just getting one because of the costs involved. :p :p

Just building the truck is costing me a pretty penny I'm finding...

[Soya]

I ran 12 in the maxx, quite insane:D
Mine's an 8 turn, BTW.

[Hairball]

You ever have any problems with it? Overheating? Gearing?

My original plan was to use two C50 motors, and run about 8 or 9 cells per motor. Kinda heavy, but TONS of power. :)

Do you run a seperate Rx pack as well?

(sorry about all the questions, but you're the first person I've met that has a Hacker, everyone else has modeltech or lehner)

-Andy

[Soya]

Yeah, I feel different;)
No problems with overheating, motor wise. The controller wasn't happy with me, but whatever. I had to gear it a bit lower, but the RPM's are abundant. For crawling, I have it at 8/76 :D

[TC3_racer_14]

I was making a project emaxx, i bought two super roosters, one XR3, a Y-harness, 2 stock motors, and I bought a receiver battery pack so that all twelve cells wouldn't be packed into the receiver. I also bought two 1500 packs (I know theyre weak but i was running low on cash). I plugged everything in and started to run it. The truck ran at about half the speed it should be going and just a little bit later i herd a sizzling sound and saw smoke, I literaly ripped the body off and saw what the problem was, one of the 1500 battery packs was frying itself. and after i took it inside the house i noticed wen i put my hand on the ESC that it was very hot(only one of the super roosters was hot) i spent so much money on this project and look what it did in return!! what went wrong? why is one of my ESC's really hot and why did my battey burn up? by the way, the battery that burned up was the battery which was connected to the hot super rooster. can anyone figure out this problem? thanks.

[tadium54]

TC3- Possibilities are reversed polarity, wrong soldering, loose connection, bad soldering, unprotected connections, or infection of water(i like saying it that way lol)

[Soya]

Infection of water, lol :D

[Lord Radeon]

Sounds like your SR shorted inside, drawing insane amps from the battery, frying itself and the batt

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

My diagnosis: bad batteries

[TC3_racer_14]

Yes! I found out what was going on, I cut open the batteries shrink wrap and that cheap battery bar on the end of the battery was pushed in and was short circuting the battery, thats proly what caused the super rooster to get really hot. I bent the battery bar back to a good shape and popped the batt into the charger and it charged fine! I didnt expect that, anyway I ran the truck and it is a little bit slower than usual but thats expected from what happened to the battery. I also mounted the batteries on the bottom of the chassis, and i took the truck out to run it in the street today and it corners so well! i bet i could corner almost as good as a touring car. well anyway thanks for all the help!

[TC3_racer_14]

ive been hearing a lot about dual-rate springs on the emaxx. What are they and how do they work? could someone post a picture of a dual rate shock setup? thanks

[TC3_racer_14]

never mind about the dual rate springs i found out what they are. but i have a new problem:I already know how to solve most of my rc problems by myself, but this one baffled the guys at the hobby shop and me! ok heres the problem, I got two super roosters two 540 stock motors a Y-harness, and hooked it all up to my XR3. The problem is that the emaxx will not do wheelies like it did before with the EVX and the 2, 540 stock motors, or go as fast on the top speed side as well. I cut the comms and got new brushes, the porblem still persists. The batteries are not bad, and they are fully charged. the super roosters are set so that they are synchronized. and the problem still persists. all the soldering is right and tight. I can't figure it out!! the big club race in the monster truck event is on Saturday!!! help some one please!

[civicds]

You say that you run 2 540 size motors is that a typo. Because the stock e-maxx motors are 550 size, and if they are 540s what turn are they? This might be your speed and wheelie problem. The fact that the motors and escs are wired right i cant help you on that. i can only think of the motors. Oh one more thing is 1 motor turning faster than the other this could cause a problem so you can check that as well. good luck and hope u do good in the race.

[TC3_racer_14]

Originally posted by civicds
You say that you run 2 540 size motors is that a typo. Because the stock e-maxx motors are 550 size, and if they are 540s what turn are they? This might be your speed and wheelie problem. The fact that the motors and escs are wired right i cant help you on that. i can only think of the motors. Oh one more thing is 1 motor turning faster than the other this could cause a problem so you can check that as well. good luck and hope u do good in the race. I am running one P2K and one P2K2, and like I said before when I had the same setup on the EVX it could pull wheelies and go really fast.

[civicds]

Thats what i thought it is the motors. even though it worked w/the evx the set up of the motors running off 2 escs instead of 1 will create more power from 1 motor in turn decreasing the power you once had. I had this problem in a clod before so i suggest if you can to switch back to the titans or the evx.

[Lord Radeon]

The EVX would give each motor 14.4 volts, double what the SRs will give the motors. (assuming 6 cell packs)

Consider bumping to 7 cells if your gonna run stock motors

[TC3_racer_14]

is there a way to solder a wire combo so that each motor gets 14.4 volts?

[Matt (aka R/C)]

Hey everyone, I wish i had a maxx:) to bad i dont:mad:. anyways, Could it be that you somehow wired the ESCs so that they were producing 2ce the capcity instead of 14.4 volts? Good Luck.Just my thoughts. Have fun with your Maxxes.

Matt

[tadium54]

In theroy, you couyld get two super roosters, and wire them in series to the motor. it would have alot less speed, but the runtime would be extended. I could be wrong(its been a while since tempermental physics and grade 9 science lol)

TC3- you could if the titans didn't explode. I just can't remember how to do it now

[TC3_racer_14]

Originally posted by Matt (aka R/C)
Hey everyone, I wish i had a maxx:) to bad i dont:mad:. anyways, Could it be that you somehow wired the ESCs so that they were producing 2ce the capcity instead of 14.4 volts? Good Luck.Just my thoughts. Have fun with your Maxxes.

Matt what is 2ce?

[Lord Radeon]

2ce = twice, i'm guessing... if you want to run stock motors in the EMaxx, your much better off using chameleon 19-turns as opposed to stocks...

[tadium54]

Guys, I need a different steering servo saver-just got myslelf a nice new hitec servo(traded a 9 turn motor and armature for it). the stock spines don't line up on the saver, so I was wondering what you guys use a a aftermarket servo saver?

[Hairball]

Kimbrough #104 (black in color, designed for 1/8th scale stuff)

[speedydave]

Get the Pro Line steering kit($45-ish) and use an aluminum servo horn, or at least the stock servo horn(not a servo saver on the servo itself like it is stock). It's relatively inexpensive, and takes a lot of slop out of the steering.

[Hairball]

Oh yeah, forgot about that one.

Thanks Speedy!

[Lord Radeon]

proline or supermaxx SS with an alum servo horn does wonders for steering

[speedydave]

There are two things I like about the Pro Line more than the SM. First is price. The Pro Line is about $45, where the SM is about $70. Second, the PL has plastic bellcranks, where the SM has aluminum. This *may* be slightly stiffer, but it's aluminum on aluminum, and add in the fact that you will drive in dirt(I hope you drive your MT in dirt :p ), it can eventually get to the point where the servo saver can't operate properly any more, which defeats the purpose of having it. The SM is a great servo saver, but, in my opinion/experience(I know someone who sold his SM to buy a PL for the reasons I just stated), the SM will need more work to keep operating correctly.

[metalry101]

Is the Pro-Line steering kit really that quality? It looks way good, but geez, 45 bux for molded plastic and one piece of aluminum? Please, I got my Pro-Line Suspension for 56, and that's a lot more plastic and even titanium. I want a steering system becuz I've stripped like 4 of the Traxxas servo savers now. I didn't strip any b4 I got a new servo, and then I put in my Hitec 5645 Digital servo in, and I strip the damn things after like 10 runs. Right now I'm running a Kimbrough servo saver, hopefully it will hold up, cuz I don't have 45 bones right now. Anyways, I g2g, cya guys

[jjlove]

Just finished swithing my emaxx to a brushless setup and I can't wait to run it out side. I installed a hacker 10xl with a schultz 12/97 controller running on 12 cells.
It will flip right over if I hit the gas too hard in 1st gear, and if I hold the truck up in the air and hold the gas in 2nd it will balloon the tires. It should be pretty fast outside as soon as it stops raining.

[Soya]

12/97 and a 10T? Sweet! I've got an 18.61 and a 8T, almost overkill on 12 cells. Almost:D

[thanghoang]

Maximizer Beadlock wheels (http://www.maxxtraxx.com/reviews/maximizer_compositebl.shtml)

Has anyone tried these wheels?

What did you think about them. It seems the wheels are a "flat" color. It would've been nice if they were metallic red, blue, or black instead of flat red, blue, or black. Or was it just my browser that was showing flat colors.

I figure they're a great buy if the wheels are durable. I was quite surprised when I learned that you had to glue your tires on these days. My old Tamiya frog had 2 part wheels that locked the beads.

It must get expensive (and tedious) to replace your tires AND rims everytime you wear down a set of tires. Not that this is a cheap hobby. :D

[Lord Radeon]

They work, but they are HEEEEAAAVVVYY wheels... for bashing, they're fine

[Soya]

Yes, quite portly.

[Lord Radeon]

In other news, I ran full speed into a curb today... broke a skid in three places, two bulks, the bulk brace, bumper, shock tower, and bent two hinge pins. Good times, good times :D :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[Lord Radeon]

And my parents ordered a package from stormer hobbies (who carry the bulk of my christmas list)

6.8 pounds.... oh boy, am I drooling and wondering now :D

[Soya]

Probably 6.8 pounds of body clips:p

[Lord Radeon]

I know part of it's a reedy quasar... but for the rest, i dunno

[thanghoang]

The beadlock rims that I'm referring to are the plastic ones not the aluminum ones. I know the aluminum ones are very heavy...and very expensive!:mad:

I was looking to get the plastic ones (click on the link in my previous message you'll see which ones I'm referring to.)

I can't imagine them being relatively that much heavier than say my rims for my Frog. I know they're probably heavier than the one piece rims but it can't be that much (at least the plastic ones.)

One quick question: I've read thru all 30 some pages of this thread and was just wondering...HOW YOUNG ARE YOU GUYS?:)

I'm 31 and can't even fathom spending the money some of you must be spending. I know when I was in high school, to purchase an EMaxx would've been out of the question. I'm not saying it's bad what you're doing. Hey, better that you spend it on a hobby like this than drugs. :D

It is a way cool hobby!:cool: I really liked it in high school but it seems to be so much cooler now. The hobby has come a loooong way!!

[Lord Radeon]

I'm talking about the PLASTIC ones :rolleyes:

They're roughly 3 times heavier then any other plastic rim out there

[Hairball]

Originally posted by thanghoang

One quick question: I've read thru all 30 some pages of this thread and was just wondering...HOW YOUNG ARE YOU GUYS?:)

I'm 31 and can't even fathom spending the money some of you must be spending. I know when I was in high school, to purchase an EMaxx would've been out of the question. I'm not saying it's bad what you're doing. Hey, better that you spend it on a hobby like this than drugs. :D



I'm 23. :p

[Soya]

17 and single:D

[Lord Radeon]

15 and overrated

[tadium54]

17, collecting loans, keeping a job down, and seling stuff/trading for it:D

Guess whos getting a HCR e maxx chassis for less than a leg? ;)

[Soya]

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY overrated;)

[jjlove]

an old fart @ 33

[tadium54]

Super overrated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Lord Radeon]

http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/17198690.jpg

MY local track.... did this montage today... do a better one come saturday

[thanghoang]

my wife said I have to wait till Christmas to open it. DARN!!!

I'm already looking at ways to personalize the truck. My first "hop up" will probably be a new body for the truck. I dig the GMC Sierra body that Proline has out for the EMaxx. The "stadium truck" look on the Emaxx is way sleek!:cool:

Thanks for the replies on the beadlocks. I might get the plastic ones for bashing. I'm not aware of any race tracks in my area but I'll check with some LHS's to confirm. Even then, I might still use the beadlocks for racing. I'm in it for the fun. I don't really care if I win or not...right now.;)

For guys so young, I am impressed by your maturity levels. You guys display a very generous nature with your willingness to help other's out. It says alot of about the kind of people you are the good upbringing you received. :) I've been on some other forums for other hobbies and you should see how they treat people who ask basic questions. :mad:

[thanghoang]

Man I would love to try that track out! In all the years that I ran my Tamiya Frog, I never found a track like that. I was pretty much confined to local baseball fields and parking lots. Even with that, I had a ton of fun. I can't wait to see how much fun a track like above would be.

[Lord Radeon]

It's a ton of fun, great guys. The best 1/8 scales are turning high 20 / low 21 second laps... my personal best is a 25.9 with the emaxx. I'll do a better montage come saturday, take some more pics

[Lord Radeon]

Got a basic/warrior BL system for XMas with my money, also got a set of mulchers with racers edge foams on the new traxxas sports wheels... awesome lookin wheels. Also got an xtreme rc carbon chassis... and sold me batts to get some new 3300s... :-) cant wait to get back to the track when my BL arrives

[Lord Radeon]

Awating a chassis (now suspended by four shocks and some REALLY heavy springs)

New body and kicks too

http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/17431826.jpg

http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/17431822.jpg

[slither262]

Originally posted by NOTSR6
Does anyone out there use a Lynx 3d for their emaxx? I just got the emaxx, and am having a hard time programming the lynx to "shift" on channel 3...any help would be very appreciated.:) I was just wondering if you figured out how to set your lynx to shift your e-maxx. i am having the same problem.

[spoolin]

Hey everyone im just about to order my E MAXX and i have some money left over...i have $67 us left over and i was wondering what should i get? i was looking at skid plaits or botom braces but i thought i would ask you guys first...i also have heard some stories about ppl breaking bulkheads.

I have enough batteries i have 6 2400 so i have everything to make it run but was wondering what to make it stronger with?

thanks guys/girls :)

[Lord Radeon]

Spend it on a better servo if you don't have one yet.

Bottom braces are nice, but pricey

Alum. skids are overrated.
Ti will run you more then $67.


New shocks would work too

[spoolin]

wowa thanks for the super quick reply! yeh i dont have a good survo yet....although i have a good 1/10 tc survo...its a $60 one would that work?? :confused:

[spoolin]

what about tyres??? i was thinking of getting the most important things first

[Lord Radeon]

Tires would work. But you'll want good inserts, your looking at about $80 for a new set of four. Or you could just use the inserts they come with... but i'd rather get good inserts


$46 for tires
$16 for rims
$15 for inserts
$3 for glue

[oodlesonoodles5]

hey guys,spoolin i would suggest a Hitec 645 servo or an equivalent, and some shocktowers. Anyways guys my maxx isnt runnin and its killin me in savin for the kind of set-up Radeon is gettin a basic 4200 with warrior 7018 controller, but i need drivetrain hop-ups and a better radio so i need 450 bux, its drivin me nuts i havent run my maxx since august!

[Lord Radeon]

The basic wont murder your drivetrain like more expensive setups will. Shouldn't be a big problem... my setup should arrive here in a week or two

[spoolin]

Originally posted by oodlesonoodles5
hey guys,spoolin i would suggest a Hitec 645 servo or an equivalent, and some shocktowers. Anyways guys my maxx isnt runnin and its killin me in savin for the kind of set-up Radeon is gettin a basic 4200 with warrior 7018 controller, but i need drivetrain hop-ups and a better radio so i need 450 bux, its drivin me nuts i havent run my maxx since august!
hahah this has to be the bigest coincidences i have had.....the survo i have is a hitec 645MG i think that soo funny hehe so i have a good survo then. So what do you think i should get? what is the first thing you guys break?

thanks everyone :)

[Lord Radeon]

The EMaxx has no real break point. If anything, its the rear driveshafts... you'll break bulks every now and then... possibly a shock tower or two...

[spoolin]

ok thanks for all the help everyone! most appreciated well i just painted another neighbours fence and now i have $112 us as spare so i will see what i can get at the same time as a i get the maxx :D

[AErules]

hello i am planing to buy a E-MAXX but i have a few questions:1does it have ballbearing everywhere.2are the prices going to drop or rise with the savage and BFT.3are the stock motors and esc any good.4how long can you drive with the stock tires

thanx
merry X-MAS
happy new year

[tadium54]

AE- the e maxx has bearings all around, except for in the steering bellcranks. the prices may drop a bit, but probably not too much. the stock esc and motors are good. i still have mine and they are good. the stock tires last a long time. mine still workgreat.

[Lord Radeon]

I agree with tadium there... the stock tires last forever

[AErules]

where can i download the manual.do you get one with the truck

[Lord Radeon]

You get one with the truck

[thanghoang]

Arrrrgggghhhh!!!!:mad:

Opened up my EMaxx Christmas morning but thanks to all the freakin' snow (up here in northwest NJ), I still haven't taken it offroad. I've only used it once since Christmas and that was on my parent's deck and patio (snow melted there). Everywhere else including at my own house and yard has about 3-6 inches of snow still left. SUCKS!!!

On a side note, I put the stock tires onto my new Beadlocks that I got. They are pretty cool looking. I got the red 5 hole Beadlocks. It looks pretty sharp. I haven't put any decals on the body yet. Although, I have scuffed up the back bumper big time. That plastic chrome finish didn't take too long to come off. Of course it's due to me flipping the truck half a dozen times.

Since there is snow everywhere but on the asphalt and concrete surfaces, I think I'm going to pick up 4 Proline Road Rage tires. I'll probably just glue them on the stock Maxx rims (why let a perfectly good pair of rims just sit on the shelf.) This way, I can still race it on the street by my house. Given the fact that it might snow again New Year's eve up here by me, there's no way I can wait till all the snow is melted.

One quick question: I noticed that the EMaxx, if I push the front or back down with my hand to compress the shocks, won't spring back 100% to its max height. The shocks stay compressed somewhat. Is this normal? It doesn't appear to occur when I drive the truck; only when its turned off and I push it down with my hand.

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Tires would work. But you'll want good inserts, your looking at about $80 for a new set of four. Or you could just use the inserts they come with... but i'd rather get good inserts


$46 for tires
$16 for rims
$15 for inserts
$3 for glue

Lord Radeon,

Is that $16 for 4 rims or 2 rims? What type of rims are you referring to?

[Lord Radeon]

4 rims.... it was just a ballpark guess. I figured 2 rims was about $8, thats how much the ones i bought were. (TRX sports rims)

As for your truck and the bumper... I HEAR YOU!!! I totalled my first body because of flipping so many times. It's all in throttle control, which you'll pick up on subliminally over time. Soon, you wont flip it hardly at all.
For the shocks and the ride height, thats normal. Add some spacers, and it will get better. But what you really need to do is get some stiffer springs. The stock ones are really way too soft for the EMaxx. Try some of the trinity light blues. They work good all-around. Some people also have had success with RC Raven dual-rates, but I never liked them much.

[AErules]

does the maxx have hex drives or phillips.
are the stock motor open endbell
where can i download the manual

[Prinler]

Good thing i ordered the BL i just blew both my motors!
the "TITAN" they slide. It Slid over the fan cooling vents... and they fried. I wondered if that would be a problem... i GUESS SOO! lol
I sware to god i didnt do this on pourpose!!! or how ever you spell it


http://www.traxxas.com/products/electric/emaxx/trx_emaxx.htm

look on the right side

has Philips
the motors are not openable.. you dont have to do maitnance
you can spary and lube thats it.

just dont cover the vents :( /cry oh well the Novak c50 should be a good replacment :)

[Prinler]

Oh DUH,,,, i forgot my question



When going to brushless.... what parts am i going to need to upgrade? Anything in my Trani?

[tadium54]

probably the diffs and the transfer axles will be the first to go.

[spoolin]

http://www.imagemagician.com/images/spoolin/jumpgif.gif :p

[oodlesonoodles5]

Lord Radeon i have some questions for you. So far i have Rear CVD's. this is what is in my list:
Kippster Cup
Alum Diff Case
SM Idlers
Center CVD's
MX-3 Radio
4200
7018
is there any of this that i really dont need, i am really anxious to have this running when the rain stops, so i only got a cpl of months and would love to not have to buy some of this stuff. I am probably going to get the CEnter CVd's though because i got outkasts chassis and dont want to be running long sliders. please give me your info!

[Lord Radeon]

Well, the only thing you dont really *need* is the radio

[oodlesonoodles5]

yeah well i want the radio cause i also plan on using it in my T3, but is there anything that isnt necessary, i also am thinking about ditching the case and the kipp cup and goin with a spool.

[Lord Radeon]

Spools suck.... trash your turning radius and handling in rough stuff. Go with kipps

[Prinler]

WHat are Kipps....
Also SO EVERYONE KNOWS!!!! E-MAXX's FLOAT! :) i put mine in the tub after i roasted the motors. Took out the elecs. and it floats... just above the chassis. :) woot woot...

[Lord Radeon]

FLoats until the tires fill up with water ;)



Kipps = Kippster diff cups and/or gears

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by spoolin
http://www.imagemagician.com/images/spoolin/jumpgif.gif :p

Spoolin,

Do you have footage of the truck coming out of the jump? I'd like to see how it rode afterwards. That was an awesome jump! :cool:

[Prinler]

whats a diff cup? hehe :(

Also whats the best CVD's? for the best price? I was looking at MIPs $120? + shiping? EEEK Anyone have a full set they want to sell?

There is a guy on ebay selling a full set.. 59.99 on ebay... If someone will buy those i will buy them off of you. He canceled my bid cause i have 2 negitive feedbacks. What a dork. Thanks who ever sells them to me :)

http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=3103415885&rd=1

Item # 3103415885

I will pay the cost. :) just dont make me pay $120 ;(

[Lord Radeon]

Prinler if you can contact me upfront and front the cash, I'd be happy to bid for you.


The best cvds unquestionable are supermaxx, but unless your running godly horsepower, they're just extra weight... the MIPs work fine for me. (I've used both)


The diff cup is what the spiders gears inside the diffs sit in. Kippster cups are aluminum, and wont let the gears move around like the stock plastic will.

[Lord Radeon]

ALso note these are stock length. They won't work with longer arms (Proline, 2.5, etc)

[Prinler]

You got a pm. I know they are stock. I dont want the wide just yet.

[Lord Radeon]

Okay, YGM

You can reach me on AIM if that is easier.


SN is Thewisdomwithin

[spoolin]

Originally posted by thanghoang
Spoolin,

Do you have footage of the truck coming out of the jump? I'd like to see how it rode afterwards. That was an awesome jump! :cool: yeh i have it but i cant upload it anywhere...

have any of you guys looked on tower hobbies at the new wide maxx E MAXX they have done the same as the T MAXX but with the e maxx there are no pics but in the description it says it has the wider suspension arms! :)

[Lord Radeon]

Thats old news. All new emaxxes have have the wider arms, new shock towers, and new driveshafts for about 2 months now :rolleyes:

[oodlesonoodles5]

well, i guess i still need 500 bux, lol. ill just go play wit my T3.

[spoolin]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Thats old news. All new emaxxes have have the wider arms, new shock towers, and new driveshafts for about 2 months now :rolleyes: sorry i did know :rolleyes:

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by spoolin
yeh i have it but i cant upload it anywhere...

have any of you guys looked on tower hobbies at the new wide maxx E MAXX they have done the same as the T MAXX but with the e maxx there are no pics but in the description it says it has the wider suspension arms! :)

How big is the file? If it's under two megs, you can private email it to me.

I have the new widemaxx EMaxx. I just got it for Christmas. The only mention of "widemaxx" is on the box. There is no mention of it in the instructions or any other printed material.

I can't really tell you if it makes a difference or not because I've never used the old EMaxx. Plus I haven't really had a chance to really run my EMaxx hard...too much snow up here in NJ. :(

[Grifter]

Originally posted by thanghoang
One quick question: I noticed that the EMaxx, if I push the front or back down with my hand to compress the shocks, won't spring back 100% to its max height. The shocks stay compressed somewhat. Is this normal? It doesn't appear to occur when I drive the truck; only when its turned off and I push it down with my hand.

This is competly normal, the shocks wont Bounce right back up. Actually, it's somewhat better to drive with them NOT all the way up, it allows the suspension to work better. And gives it a slightly lower Center of Gravity, without sacrifing much ground clearence.

[spoolin]

Originally posted by thanghoang
How big is the file? If it's under two megs, you can private email it to me.

I have the new widemaxx EMaxx. I just got it for Christmas. The only mention of "widemaxx" is on the box. There is no mention of it in the instructions or any other printed material.

I can't really tell you if it makes a difference or not because I've never used the old EMaxx. Plus I haven't really had a chance to really run my EMaxx hard...too much snow up here in NJ. :( I will try and email it to you now!

alothough i dont have your email..... :):p

[thanghoang]

I just got a set of Proline Road Rage tires for my stock EMaxx rims. I put them on but I just can't seem to get the tires to be perfectly round. I didn't seem to have any problems with putting my stock EMaxx tires on my beadlock rims.

What am I doing wrong?

I did notice that the foams and tires were sort of an oval shape in the package. Could they have been "stretched" into this shape. It seems that there are "flat" spots. When I roll the tire on a table, it doesn't roll smoothly.

Will this matter that much after it's glued up and mounted on the EMaxx?

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by spoolin
I will try and email it to you now!

alothough i dont have your email..... :):p

Ooops! My bad. :rolleyes:


Sorry. I thought private emailing would give you my email address.

thanghoang@comcast.net.

[Grifter]

Originally posted by thanghoang
Will this matter that much after it's glued up and mounted on the EMaxx?

Yes! It will matter a lot. Imagine that tire on you E-Max when you're driving it!! It will create a lot of vibration. It would be like driving with square wheels.

Try trimming the foam inserts and drill a little hole in the rims(if ones not already there) to allow the Foam to "breath."

[Lord Radeon]

Road tires NEED their foams trimmed, and the foams that come with them are way too soft for the tire. Pick up some trinity grey or blue foams to use.

[AErules]

wil you please post pics of your eMAXX i really would like to look at them

[spoolin]

Originally posted by thanghoang
Ooops! My bad. :rolleyes:


Sorry. I thought private emailing would give you my email address.

thanghoang@comcast.net. no private emailing didnt give me your email
Anys i sent it and its 1.6 meg! :)

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Road tires NEED their foams trimmed, and the foams that come with them are way too soft for the tire. Pick up some trinity grey or blue foams to use.

Damn!! I had spot glued 2 of them before noticing they weren't perfectly round.

Any suggestions for getting glued tires off of the rims without ruining the rim and tire?

I did notice that the foams were pretty soft compared to the stock Traxxas foams that came with the truck. I thought it was normal for more traction on asphalt. Double damn!!! :rolleyes:

[Prinler]

Holly cow bones! This is ugly!

[spoolin]

Originally posted by thanghoang
Damn!! I had spot glued 2 of them before noticing they weren't perfectly round.

Any suggestions for getting glued tires off of the rims without ruining the rim and tire?

I did notice that the foams were pretty soft compared to the stock Traxxas foams that came with the truck. I thought it was normal for more traction on asphalt. Double damn!!! :rolleyes: The best way i think so get the tyre off is get a hobby knife and streach the tyre and cut as close as you can to the rim :)

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by spoolin
no private emailing didnt give me your email
Anys i sent it and its 1.6 meg! :)

Got it. Thanks! It was way cool. I think it's amazing how much abuse these trucks can take.

[Lord Radeon]

soak the tires in acetone... that'll do it in a day or so. it rubberizes the glue and the tires will come right off the rims. neither is damaged, but the foam will be trashed. stiff foams are needed for asphalt because soft foams dont give enough sidewall support and your tires will "float" on the rim

[spoolin]

Originally posted by thanghoang
Got it. Thanks! It was way cool. I think it's amazing how much abuse these trucks can take. yeh i know! but you dont see it go after that realy lol

well im having 2nd thoughts on the e maxx....i dont know if i go the E or the T now?? convince me ppls :p

[Prinler]

Electric is quieter... You can run it anytime.... The T-maxx you have to rebuild all the time. With the E-maxx you run it.. toss it in the back of your truck. toss it in your garage and forget for a month no one will care. The T need after run oil, blah blah blah
T-maxx = longer run times thats it! E-maxx is cheeper to run. Easyer to run, and work on. :)

[Prinler]

im a sin~or membor now :)

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
soak the tires in acetone... that'll do it in a day or so. it rubberizes the glue and the tires will come right off the rims. neither is damaged, but the foam will be trashed. stiff foams are needed for asphalt because soft foams dont give enough sidewall support and your tires will "float" on the rim

I used to use acetone to take acrylic paint off of my painted fantasy miniatures.

What will the acetone do to the chrome finish on the stock rims?

[Lord Radeon]

Nothing, it doesnt hurt the chrome

[Lord Radeon]

The mail lady just brought my BL system and my pro-match 3300s.... first impressions, the batts are awesome #s, 415 seconds, 1.14 volts... at 30 amps. built one pack, that deans jig is AWESOME... makes things so easy.

As for the BL.... i was amazed at how small the motor was. It's literally barely more then 1/2 as long as one titan. And it puts out 2.5x as much power as two of them. Crazy....

[adas123]

who makes motors that are powerful?
I've had my maxx for a while, and i've looked at hacker brussless, but 220 bucks for each motor,plus the 200 dollar esc to control them?!:eek: I need powerful but ALOT cheaper.

Can Somebody help in that?:(

[Lord Radeon]

A lehner basic brushless/ warrior controller will run you around $260. Cheapest brushless out there

[BLK]

Originally posted by adas123
who makes motors that are powerful?
I've had my maxx for a while, and i've looked at hacker brussless, but 220 bucks for each motor,plus the 200 dollar esc to control them?!:eek: I need powerful but ALOT cheaper.

Can Somebody help in that?:(

I may be wrong, but I don't think you will need to hacker c-50 motors for the emaxx. 1 should be plenty. However, if you go to finedesignrc.com or rumrunnerhobbies.com they have some customer pics with various setups. I think I saw lehner setup with two motors. That thing will cook! Not sure if the drivetrain can stand up to that sort of power or not. I think the truck was running 12 cells, from the looks of things.

I highly encourage you to check out the bl thread. Its like 54 pages long and has tons of information about setups, esc's etc.

BTW, I'm thinking of setting up a bl emaxx so lord radeon, i'd like to see how your setup works out for you.

Thanks!
BLK

[Prinler]

I Talked to Chris Fine from finedesignrc .... He Told me the C50 is to much power :) Well Worth the money. One motor will blow away the other combo's, One thing i remember he told me is. Dont be a fool, buy 2 $100+ motors, then 2 $120+ Controlers. BUY ONE GOOD SETUP. Ie the C50 :) will blow the 2 motor set up enless your using like the lehner 1940's at $240 each.. but as i quote..... good luck not flipping :)

[Hairball]

I've been planning on putting TWO Hacker C50s into this rig for quite awhile... Hopefully I'll get it finished soon. :D

http://home.jps.net/~hairball/smside.jpg

[speedydave]

Psycho... :rolleyes:

[Prinler]

Thats what Spoiled kids do with there money. Waste it, you dont even know how 1 Brushless c50 will work and he wants to get 2 just to do it. $800 later lol oh man. dont get me started.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Prinler
Thats what Spoiled kids do with there money. Waste it, you dont even know how 1 Brushless c50 will work and he wants to get 2 just to do it. $800 later lol oh man. dont get me started.

Hmm, where do I start?

Oh yeah, I'm 24 years old (well, close enough). I work for a living. I pay my own bills. I'm older than you, so you have no right calling me a kid. Did I mention I'm married, AND I own my own home (not rent, OWN).

Its my money, not yours, so just shut up already jerk.

[Prinler]

Jerk lol i was joking foo. heh
what wheelie bar your gonna run?

[Hairball]

Dunno yet. Whatever my mind comes up with I suppose.

[speedydave]

Custom built using airplane landing gear wheels! :D

[Prinler]

http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=184

[speedydave]

That'll just get bent the first time he lands a jump wrong.

[Lord Radeon]

Eh, got to run a cycle through the bl. It's overgeared by two pinion teeth (18/66 on 1/8 diffs, so 16/66 on stocks) BUT even with the cogging, it was amazing. So powerful and so fast. Race day tomorrow, if i cant get a smaller pinion, ill get a bigger spur. The 3300s rock too... awesome stuff. Cheers :D

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Eh, got to run a cycle through the bl. It's overgeared by two pinion teeth (18/66 on 1/8 diffs, so 16/66 on stocks) BUT even with the cogging, it was amazing. So powerful and so fast. Race day tomorrow, if i cant get a smaller pinion, ill get a bigger spur. The 3300s rock too... awesome stuff. Cheers :D

What system did you end up getting again? Motor / ESC?

[Prinler]

http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=1459

[Lord Radeon]

4200/warrior 70

lightweight truck, 4 shocks, no bumpers, cut skid

[adas123]

Hmmmm... nice!

[oodlesonoodles5]

Hey guys i just got my new chassis installed ordered it from Bomb-Proof Products (http://www.bomb-proofproducts.com) and i gota say this thing is sweet. its extended so it can hold up to 9 cells per side (unstacked) and 28 cells if stacked! it comes with Rix gear extended chassis braces, and just looks so cool! Now some pics!
http://pic1.picturetrail.com:80/VOL111/775710/1358683/17913933.jpg
http://pic1.picturetrail.com:80/VOL111/775710/1358683/17913802.jpg
http://pic1.picturetrail.com:80/VOL111/775710/1358683/17913798.jpg

[racer234]

Does anyone know if I can run 540's with my EVX? And If i can what's the turn limit? Or could I use a super rooster? Thanks a ton:) I'd really like to go brushless but it is way to much money for a 14 year old kid :(
Have a good day :D

[adas123]

You know, I don't totally remember, but I think it's like 17-turn?!

so, maybe you should try a super rooster with no turn limit. but I don't know if it will handle a modified motor. A 540? 550's are more powerful. I don't remember the price so maybe that's why!:D

[speedydave]

540's will burn up on an EVX. Just ask Hairball. :)

[Lord Radeon]

Day at the track. DAMN that thing put a smile on my face :D. So fast, it was unreal. OVergeared, so i was thermalling like nuts. Going to get a fan, and drop the pinion 3 teeth (from 18/72 to 15/72). Hopefully that will solve my problems. Din break a part either... somehow. Some insane airtime.

[Lord Radeon]

Pics

Awaiting BL system

http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/17967203.jpg
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/17967225.jpg

After first day at the track...
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/17967232.jpg
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/17967237.jpg

The day's body damage
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/17967247.jpg



And tonight's innovation that's soon to also receive a radioshack fan. the OS 15CV heatsink on the BL controller. Done with Aluminum tape, thermal grease, shoe goo around the edges to help hold, and a dremel tool. Fits snug.

(pics arent great, had trouble focusing)
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/17967178.jpg
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/17967163.jpg
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/17967191.jpg

Cheers

[Prinler]

On a c50 the website says 72 tooth spur and a 18 tooth pinion. When i called chris. he told me to run bone stock with a 19 tooth pinion. Stock is 66 tooth. 66/18 is way different then 72/18

[Soya]

I'm running 76/8:D

[Prinler]

your a crawler eh?

[Hairball]

In about 45 days, i should have my Dual Brushless rig up and running... :D :D

(Thats when I'll be back in California)

[Prinler]

What ya getting Hairball?

[Hairball]

Right now the vote is for two Hacker C50 systems.

I keep hearing Lehner is better, but I don't believe it. When it comes time to drop the cash, I'll be sure to have done my homework.

The plan is for a PART-TIME dual brushless setup in my E-Maxx (the one featured above) and when I want to run something else, I'll pull one of the brushless systems for whatever else. (my other E-maxx maybe, one of my TXT-1s, whatever I feel like breaking I guess.. hehehe)

[Prinler]

the c50 is large. "size of a hand granade" so i hear..... The lehners are awsome. the 1940's very long and have more torque then you could belive. not that much more then the c50. and works with the hacker ESC. a duel setup like that , with out a doubt, will rip a maxx's trani, diffs, twist cheep cvd's, MAn i could even imagie :(

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Prinler
the c50 is large. "size of a hand granade" so i hear.....

What kind of grenade? They come in a few different shapes and sizes.. and I've used most of them in training ops.. :) (I'm a US Marine if you didn't know)

Nothing cooler thatn the first time you hear one of those babies go off and you're within 100 feet of it. (down in pit of course).

4th of July FireWorks don't even come close.... :D

[Prinler]

Damn i need to stop with that compairison. your the 3rd marine i have confused lol.... Im talkiing about the "clasic" granade.. Giligans island... the pinaple one. :) WWII or something. :)

can ya send me one in the mail? i wanna hear one :)

[Hairball]

Ya right, we'll both be in jail... :p

You're talking about a "Frag" grenade.. :)

[Soya]

Yeah, it's in my mud truck. Torque is your friend:D

[tmaxx_1]

hi, anyone know if 2.2 wheels fit the e-maxx?
i have seen buggie wheels on e-maxx's but im hoping a brand of 2.2 truck wkeels will fit. i want to lower the truck and make it lighter.

[Lord Radeon]

No, they dont fit. And no, dont try. 2.2 wheels would get trashed by the driveline/power of the maxx.

[tadium54]

Lord, or anyone else who ahs aftermarket wheels and tires:

I am looking at proline or rpm wheels and proline tires. i am inyerested in the mulchers or mashers. can you guys notice any difference in performance in the two? i will be driving on construction sites and maybe on baseball fields and grass. what rpm or proline wheels do you guys use. They ar my only options, and I need to get a proline jepp body.

thanks
tadium

[Lord Radeon]

Mulchers grip better in soft stuff, and loose dirt
Downside is they wear on hard stuff, asphalt, and cement.

Mashers grip better all-around, and on grass. Can be used on hard surfaces without excessive wear liek the mulchers.

Personal preference really, but i like the mulchers

[thanghoang]

I have an old Tamiya Frog as well as the EMaxx. I've found that I've always preferred offroad tires for offroad use and onroad tires for onroad use. With that said, as I did with my Frog, I purchased a set of road tires for my EMaxx. I bought the Proline Road Rage tires.

I've been using them exclusively since I got my EMaxx this past Christmas. All the snow up here in NJ has prevented me from taking it offroad. The Road Rage tires grip pretty well, even with the wet asphalt. They grip so well that I have to be careful with how much throttle I give it starting off or I'll flip the truck every single time. Wheelies are fun but flipping sucks!!!:D

I've heard that the foams for the Road Rage are a little soft. I'm just bashing around right now so it's not a big concern of mine. I did have some problems with one tire not being perfectly round when I first glue it up. Since I had glued it, I decided to try to massage the foam in it around first to fix the problem. The massaging and running the car with the tire seemed to fix the problem. Thank god.:) I was prepared to do the whole acetone thing but I'm glad I didn't have to.

I like the look of the mulchers. I had a set like that for my Frog and it was excellent in the dirt. I'll see how the stock tires do when the snow melts and the ground dries up.

My only complaint is that these tires are ALL just so expensive. I can understand why aluminum hop up parts are expensive but there really isn't any reason for why molded rubber is so expensive. I guess someone has to pay for all the advertising. My road rage tires cost me $55 for 4!!!!:mad:

[thanghoang]

I have a dumb question but I just can't seem to find the answer. I want to customize/personalize the look of my new EMaxx a bit. I was looking at getting some nice looking aluminum parts to "dress" it up.

My question is, I know that the metal aluminum parts will be stronger but will they also be heavier?

I've seen some all metal EMaxxes and if each part is heavier, than those trucks must weigh a ton. The motors on them would have to be huge monster motors to move them.

I don't want to sacrifice performance (due to the extra weight) on the truck just so I can personalize it. I know I can buy more powerful motors but that's beyond my technical level right now. Plus I'm still learning the nuances of driving the truck. The last thing I need is to add more power to it.

Also, I'm looking at parts made by Duratrax, Trinity, Hardcore Racing, and Traxxas. Does anyone have any particular reason why I should stay away from one or more of these manufacturers? Or why I should go with anyone of these manufacturers? Any other manufacturers you personally like? There are just so many to choose from.

Thanks for your help in advance. I read thru all the pages on this EMaxx forum and I've learned a great deal.

[Lord Radeon]

A fully loaded plastic emaxx with batts weighs in around 12 pounds. The same with alum. weighs in around 15 pounds. There's your comparison. The greatest weight is in CVDs, and in the motors/tyres. Aluminum is fine to replace the plastic with.


Hardcore I wouldn't buy, only because their parts are rediculously overpriced, although very high quality. The cheapest high quality parts are made by integy (www.integy.com). Duratrax makes decent stuff, i use their ladder braces. Traxxas makes decent aluminum parts... but you can get the same parts cheaper from other mfrs (integy).


Best aluminum things to get are

Ladder Braces
Bulkheads
Bulkhead braces
Diff Cases
HIGH QUALITY shock towers (lesser ones will bend, consider UE knuckleheads)

Things NOT to get in aluminum
-
Skids (bend way too easy, get Ti skids)
Body mounts (bend too easy)
Bumper mounts (plastic is better, because alum sends the shock of impact into your chassis, which is bad. Plastic flexes and absorbs impact)



Alum. wheels are nice, but pricey, AND heavy. They can also bend under extreme circumstances. Not worthwhile unless your destroying plastic rims

[thanghoang]

Radeon,

Thanks for the info. I did consider the aluminum beadlocks (and some other aluminum wheels.) They were way more than I was willing to spend on just wheels. I figure I could easily get some of the mirror finish chrome wheels for a fraction of the cost and they would be fine.

What is U/E? I've seen that name(?) mentioned before but haven't been able to locate it at towerhobbies.com or stormerhobbies.com.

I'll check out more of the Integy as well...the chassis braces alone are half the cost of the Duratrax.

Thanks again.

[Hairball]

www.unlimitedengineering.com

[tmaxx_1]

hi, i have the evx speed control with stock titans and 2 - 8.4 volt packs.
what is the biggest pinion i can use without over heating? (it would be for street and hard packed dirt)

[Lord Radeon]

UE = Unlimited Engineering AKA Supermaxx by some

www.ueusa.net



Tmaxx_1. on 7 cells, you dont want to use more then an 18 tooth pinion

[Hairball]

Didn't I already cover that Radeon?

[Lord Radeon]

But its ueusa.net ;) unlimited.com is their old webby

[Hairball]

Bah! They both lead to the same place!

:p :p

[HauntedMyst]

I just did a trade and got a brand new emaxx. It is for me and my 5 yr old son to play with who has zero concept on turning or accident avoidance (much like the chuckleheads in the street racing thread, he just wants it to go fast) . I'm too lazy to read through 37 pages of posts so if some one can post their opions on what you think are the must have durability hop up (not just shiney or cool looks hop ups) I would appreciate it.

[Prinler]

alum Bulk head(at least front) and RPM a-arms. Loc-tite all screws. If you "romp" "stomp" or even "bash" get a set of bottom Skids. well worth the money.

[Hairball]

As you know the "Maxx" is a very versatile vehicle. What is your goal for the truck? Terrain it will be used on most? Speed preferance?

Brushless? I'd at the very least get aluminum front and rear bulkheads, aluminum center braces, and a set of titanium skids for it, but thats just me.

CVDs are a nice upgrade. It gets really old replacing those plastic sliders all the time. Motor heatsinks will pro-long the life of the Titan motors. A PC cooling fan mounted to your EVX ESC will prevent the ESC from thermaling all the time, so you can bash all day without a problem.

-Andy

[Prinler]

Echo? j/k 12v dc fan on 14.4 volts... never though of it.. i got fans. im a computer nerd. someone smack me.

[tadium54]

From stock, the bulkheads and skids are absolute junk. the aluminum may bend, but it won't shatter like the stock plates. titanium turnbuckles and hinge pins are also a good idea. i have yet to have a problem with them, but maybe I will in the future.

[Lord Radeon]

12volt fans are great ^_^ :D

[Soya]

*Smacks Prinler*

[Hairball]

Do this -

[Prinler]

Dont have an EVX.... Well im selling it anyone wanna Trade the EVX for some money or Alum parts for my maxx? I need bulkheads! alum ones! lemme know!

[Prinler]

I just checked my tracking # from new era. My chassis should be here tomorrow via UPS. :) its gonna be great. My Hacker and Lehner ESC and Motors should be here too. Come to think about it my tower should be here tomorrow too HAHA woot its like Xmass all over!!! :)

Anyone own a Newera 3.5 chassis? would love to know more about it

[Prinler]

ALright i got the chassis. Its amazing. Only problem where the hell do i put the reciver and esc? shesh lol


Seriously Does anyone have this chassis?

[Hairball]

Do you mean the 3.2mm Main Chassis by New Era Models?

[4wdmt]

Guys, I run 7cells on my e-maxx lately and I keep twisting my rear half shafts after a few runs. What can i do to prevent this? I dont have enough money to buy CVDs. are the new T-maxx half shafts a direct fit for the old model e-maxx? if ever, what are the parts and part numbers needed in order to be able to install them on my E. thanks in advance guys.

[Soya]

You mean the 2.5 sliders? Yes, they fit. I have some. They're stronger, too. Check Tower for the parts numbers.

[4wdmt]

You mean, just buying the sliders (new half shaft) will be a direct fit on the old e-maxx parts? Thanks Soya.

[Soya]

Yep.

[Prinler]

CVD's arnt that expensive..... Mowe some lawns or something :p Or pull weeds with your maxx :)

[4wdmt]

Nice one Prinler, maybe I will go for rent-a-maxx? :D

I think I will try the new half shafts for the meantime.:)

[Prinler]

Brushless maxx with paddle tires. Solf dirt. Hmmm would be awsome!

[Lord Radeon]

Watch yourself on thermals with paddles. They draw a lot of current because they have a lot of rolling resistance

[Burnout]

Finally ran the damn truck for a little bit. So after only 5 runs I ever had I decided to put it away before I spend more money on it. Its nothing much but here is my almost stock E Maxx.

[Burnout]

another pic. x_x

[tmaxx_1]

burnout you call that allmost stock? lot more changes than mine!
looks GREAT. how do you like the baja tire? thinking about getting them myself.
i have read that they are the lightest tire, even lighter than the street tires.

[Burnout]

Thanks! I call it almost stock because it doesn't compare to those $1000 ones out there! Mines is more like $500...give or take a few. :p .

As for the Bajas? I don't like them. Sure the thread pattern looks cool but for in my case using it in the backyard its crap. The truck feels very skiddish. I switched back to stock tires and they definitely hook up way better for my use. My Bajas are medium compound. They are light because the damn thing feels thin, it does not feel thick or has strong as the stock ones. Plus the diameter is a little smaller, the stocks have that beefy bigger look to them. IMO I would go with some Proline tires better. The IMEX's aren't working that great for ME.

[t3customdriver]

Does anybody now somebody that is selling a e-maxx, because i have a Rc10T3 and now i decided that i want an e-maxx? This would help a lot. What upgrades should i think about putting on it?

[Lord Radeon]

Pics of bl tonight... finally got around to it :cool: :D

[tadium54]

Got my MX-3, along with some srprings, to go along with 8 2000 packs, 3 dischargers, and a few other doo dads. My problem is with the MX-3. My Hitec servo, novak esc and everythiong else won't fit into the little reciver slots. stupid airtonics. the radio is great however. very light and well balanced

any way as to fix the problem with the RX?

[Lord Radeon]

Tadium: They'll fit. My stepdad uses hitec on his airtronics radio. It's a *tight* fit but they will fit in there. Airtronics slots are just as small as can be.







Here's the pics...



From the top.
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/18339533.jpg

Front, note 12 volt fan spliced into battery connectors.
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/18339563.jpg

Rear, great shot of the digital switch. It's nice.
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/18339576.jpg

Side, gives a good look at just how much lower the chassis puts the batteries. Compare to stock. Huge difference. http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/18339553.jpg


One happy BLer.

~LR

[tadium54]

Lord- ask him if he had to modify the pug to make it fit. i had to, and it wasn't too hard, just an inconvience. now all I have to wait for it my hardcore Chassis, alumiunum braces and then some CA glue. That should finish it off. ill be back in the saddle soon enough:)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Tadium: They'll fit. My stepdad uses hitec on his airtronics radio. It's a *tight* fit but they will fit in there. Airtronics slots are just as small as can be.
From the top.
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/18339533.jpg


LR - From this pic, it looks like you've done away with the shifting servo. True?

What gear to you choose to run all the time, and why?

Thanks

[Soya]

Probably second, heh:D
Need more lighting, buddy! Looks cool, though:D

[Lord Radeon]

Tadium: No, because I installed all the radio equipment. Maybe the mold on your receiver was just slightly out of spec. Who knows.


And Hairball, yeah, its locked in second. The first speed idler is removed, and the first speed steel primary gear removed from the shaft (took out the pin, gear glides right off). Saves more weight, and the motor has no issues whatsoever working in full time second on a light truck like mine.

[Lord Radeon]

And oh man, did you order the hardcore emaxx chassis? :eek: :( It's an exact copy of the stock chassis.... only a LOT heavier... not worth $10 if you ask me. You'd be better off with a supermaxx/xtreme/bomb proof chassis.... some chassis that actually improves performance. But hey, whatever floats your boat...:(

[Prinler]

hahaha
http://www.rb-rc.com/new_york_city_times_square_webcam/new_york_city_times_square_webcam.htm

[tadium54]

lord- i got the e maxx chassis from hadrdcore racing. i snapped my stock, so i got an aluminum one

[Prinler]

I suport ya 100% tad. I purchased a Newera alum chassis. It looks amazing. When i jump it off a 3 story building.... it will hold up better then the carbon one :p hehehe.


count down!


less then 12 hours till brushless gets here!!!! everyone cross your fingers!

[thanghoang]

Yeah!!!! :D :D I finally got some real runtime with my EMaxx this past weekend since I got it on Christmas. The roads were dry and the snow was all hardened over enough that the truck could just "skate" over it.

However, I noticed 2 things about my stock EMaxx today. I was running it today on a mixture of asphalt and hard snow.

As I was climbing some small snow/ice mounds, I noticed that at times not all the wheels were spinning. For example, at one point I saw the left rear wheel spinning (and slipping on the ice) and the right wheel just sitting there "almost" spinning. The right was actually catching some traction and trying to work the truck up the mound. Is this intended and OK behavior? And if so, what mechanism on the truck allows each wheel to act independantly like this?

The other thing I noticed was there were points where the truck wasn't moving (again as it was climbing up on the snow/ice mounds), the wheels weren't moving, but I could hear the gears moving. It was the same high pitch sound the truck makes when it takes off down the street. Is this OK?

I'm kinda paranoid of stripping the gears in the transmission because that is what I did on my first rc car years back. I was driving my stock Emaxx with the stock offroad tires.

Other than those 2 instances, the truck was a blast to drive and ungodly fast on the asphalt in 2nd gear (with Road Rage tires). I am definitely going to have to work on my steering skills. :rolleyes:

[Prinler]

Its called a differential :)

[thanghoang]

One more quick question...what causes the front of truck to raise up when accelerating full throttle? Is it all the torque of the transmission from the back end?

[Prinler]

physics :)

something about things wanting to stay the same. like when you floor your REAL car.. you head snaps back into the seat :) Same thing. The truck wants to stay still and well being so top heavy it rolls back onto itself :)


my .02

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Prinler
Its called a differential :)

I thought the differential was used to take power from the main axle and shift its motion 90degrees to the axles that move the wheels? Am I correct in understanding that it allows the gears to "slip" in order to keep the motors from burning out?

As you might be able to tell, I'm a little clueless with "automotive" technology. I'm having a blast learning more about the EMaxx though.

[Prinler]

Diff's are to let one tire spin seperatly.
When a Car or truck turns... one tire can come to a compleat stop while in a 360 deg. turn if you didnt both tires would roll the same making it VERY hard to make a trun. Think about it a bit

[Prinler]

Take your truck.... pivot it on one back tire. Then act like your turning... then imagine your tires haveing to turn at the same time. you should get it then

[thanghoang]

Prinler,

Thanks dude for the explanation. I understand your explanation with the turning radius example. I just didn't realize it was the differential that allowed the truck to do so.

Thanks again dude!

[Prinler]

Well if your on Aim or yahoo add PRINLER to your list... or on MSN its my E-mail addy :)

I have lots of knowedge :) i asked all the same questions at one point in time. :) msg me any time.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon

And Hairball, yeah, its locked in second. The first speed idler is removed, and the first speed steel primary gear removed from the shaft (took out the pin, gear glides right off). Saves more weight, and the motor has no issues whatsoever working in full time second on a light truck like mine.

Thanks. I may end up doing the same with mine because with the Xtreme Maxx chassis, there really inst a good place to mount the servo AND your Receiver using the optional lower CG motor mount.

Better rid of the servo means one less thing to mess with. :D

[tmaxx_1]

hi, who sells the carbon fiber chassis for the e-maxx?

[Soya]

X-treme Racing makes one, I'm not sure about other companies.

[tmaxx_1]

do you know the web address?

[Lord Radeon]

MAnufacturer website

http://www.xtremercracing.com/emaxx.htm

Buy them here

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=XTR&man=Xtreme%20Racing

part # _
XTR1002

:cool:

[Hairball]

or here

www.rc4wd.com

:p :p

[tmaxx_1]

hi, ok i would like some suggestions on the evx esc. i run two 8.4 volt packs and two titan motors with stock gearing.
i have seen a esc with a fan on it(how is this done? just screw into heat sinks?)
would adding reciever batteries instead of bec be benificial to power?
can i go to 9.6 volts?
what are the metal bands on the motors that have the titan stickers for? do they serve a purpose?

anyone have a good website that can help me?

any tricks for the evx titan setup?

thanks

[Lord Radeon]

You can either screw the fan into the heatsinks (just dont screw between them, itll short your evx out) or ziptie it to the top of the evx. two 9.6 volts will fry both the ESC and your motors. 8.4 is the max. The metal bands have something theoretically to do with magnetic flux, but in my opinion, they make no difference. Take them off if you want

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Prinler
Well if your on Aim or yahoo add PRINLER to your list... or on MSN its my E-mail addy :)

I have lots of knowedge :) i asked all the same questions at one point in time. :) msg me any time.

I tried looking for you on Yahoo instant messenger. I looked up PRINLER by yahoo id and by "friend". I couldn't find ya!

[tmaxx_1]

can anyone explain what gears to remove in the transmission to eliminate 1st gear?
i have removed the shift servo and locked the shift lever in second gear but i would like to reduce the rotating weight.

[Lord Radeon]

Well, TMaxx its sort of a trick deal. What you remove is the biggest plastic gear, the idler gear (smaller plastic gear) that meshes with that big gear, and the steel gear on the shaft with the two steel gears. Here is where the problem is. When you take the big gear and idler gears out, there's nothing on the shaft. You need to slip bearings on the shaft to take up the space that the gears took up, else your gears in the transmission will move around freely, and it won't work at all. I might get around to posting a detailed walkthrough later if i decide to open up my transmission again.

[Hairball]

Somebody should make a conversion kit to make your tranny a one speed only, with a new thinner case and everything. :D

[tmaxx_1]

got it, thank you. when you open it up it makes sense.

[Lord Radeon]

Hairball: Someone needs to make a conversion to a 1/8 buggy style center diff. That would solve the transmission problem, and eliminate tons of weight.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Hairball: Someone needs to make a conversion to a 1/8 buggy style center diff. That would solve the transmission problem, and eliminate tons of weight.

Didn't Hardcore Racing (www.racinghardcore.com) already do this?

Yeah, they made a new chassis to use an 1/8th center diff instead of the tranny. Why couldn't we just build a bracket and mount brushless motors to it.

[Prinler]

Anyone know if i can get just a pin for my CVD i broke?

[speedydave]

Andy, Hardcore made a .21 flat chassis conversion. It'll cost you about $400 to get just the chassis stuff though(at least if you're keeping it nitro...)...

MIP should sell rebuild kits, or just the pin. Check Tower, I think I've seen them there.

[Lord Radeon]

hairball: because the hardcore mutant chassis is the biggest POS out there it isnt even funny. not designed around BL anyway

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
hairball: because the hardcore mutant chassis is the biggest POS out there it isnt even funny. not designed around BL anyway

one question.

Why? (besides its insanely overpriced, as with all of hardcore stuff)

[Lord Radeon]

Its HEAVY, it STILL FLEXES way too much, the price which you mentioned, there are no LOGICAL gearing choices for it (blame bad r&d on this one). Even the shortest gearing is way too tall. (geared way too high for top end). The blasted thing should never have been released. Poor chap at my local track has one, he gave up on it and went back to stock. the thing sits in his trailer now. it's sad, really. such a waste

[Hairball]

Makes sense. :D

Thanks for the info. I just wanted to hear your opinion really. :p :p

[Lord Radeon]

Saddest part is with a little more R&D it could be one of the best chassis' out there. Oh well, that's hardcore for you...

[Lord Radeon]

Sorry for lighting&quality, but this gives you an idea of what to do.

First, i'll start with my slipper setup. 10 1/8" diff balls instead of 12 pegs. Run with locked spring. Works like a dream
http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/18515505.jpg

The shiny silver things are bearings on the main shaft to take up the space. This is the only shaft you need bearings on, because its the only shaft that floats around. Note the first gear is removed in pic http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/18515508.jpg

The primary shaft with the first speed steel gear removed. Take out/drill out the pin, and the gear slides off. http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/18515511.jpg

What is removed http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/18515515.jpg

All gears in place, ready to go! http://pic4.picturetrail.com:80/VOL53/812824/1446171/18515519.jpg

[Prinler]

Purchased a new Servo. Um how do i fit it onto my the Servo Saver? I dont get it... What am i missing? should i purchase a new servo saver?

[Prinler]

Will this work for the e-maxx? I would love this! this looks like a really awsome upgrade to the bogus stock servosaver....

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/parts/6019/6019.html

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/parts/6019/6019.jpg

[Hairball]

Yes, it will.

[Grant Tokumi]

Lord Radeon,

Nice step by step photos. I didn't know what they were for at first, but I read back and found out its to remove 1st gear gears. I'm assuming you can do the same concept to remove the 2nd gear gears (to lock it in 1st gear only).

By the looks of that extra bearing placement and your description, it seems that your setup allows it to lock the shifter shaft internally so that you won't have to externally lock the shifter (the silver thing the servo moves in and out) to the chassis. Is that right?

On a separate but similar subject. Now that you've eliminated the shifting, there is no need for all the backlash slop in the tranny. Anyone know of a way to eliminate that backlash? The backlash is like 1/4 turn of the tire which is a bit excessive IMO.

[Lord Radeon]

Well grant... to be honest, im not sure abotu the shifter. i've had it locked in second since i got the tranny... since before i took the gears out. can't hurt. i just shoe gooed the shifter knob with a dab. its held for 9 months no problems. The same thing, yes, would apply to lock the tranny in first gear. I see no reason why it wouldnt.


Now on backlash, i guess you *could* shoe goo a piece of plastic to take up the space in the gear so the shifter mechanism doesnt float for that 1/4 turn to engage the gear. The backlash doesnt hurt me any, as i race, but im sure it would be useful to eliminate it for crawlers.

[Grant Tokumi]

I've considered inserting spacers like you recommend in that slot to take up the extra space that causes the backlash. But I'm a little nervous about strength. Whatever object that is placed in there will experience a lot of force on it. I'm worried that enough wear and tear may work glues or other fasteners loose and the obect would slide out, being loose in the tranny and wreaking havoc in there. I was hoping someone would reply with so and so website that sells a replacement gear that eliminates that backlash. :) Oh well. At least your gear elimination frees up some space in that tranny. I may end up doing some kind of insert thing like you mention.

I don't experience any significant driving hardships too with the slop, but I'm thinking all that backlash has to be putting some major extra stress on the gears that would not normally be there if that extra backlash wasn't there.

What I was thinking along the lines of those spacers was using rubber inserts. It would eliminate/reduce the backlash, but the rubber would also serve to soften the initial shock forces on the gears.

Going back to locking the shifter, here's what I've been doing to lock my tranny into 1st gear. Simply slot the shaft with a dremel and put a body clip to keep the shaft from sliding back into the tranny. This method would only work for locking into 1st though, not 2nd.
http://www.rcarchive.com/robot/1-9-02/P1010109.jpg

[slid'in sideway]

Grant Tokumi,
I have also noticed this backlash in the trans. What I did was to take some kaydex and cut some peices out shaped them to the same curvature as the spaces in the gear where the shifting pegs go into. Then removing the same width( that the shifting peg is) of material from the kaydex peice with a dermal tool. I put into the slots, pushed shifting cog into place and checked to see how tight the fit was. after I was sure their was no slop I drilled two very small holes through the peices first then through the part of the gear that the peices go into and fasten them with some short 2-56 threaded button head screws. If I didn't explain it that well let me know what part needs more explaination, I will try get that part across better.
Slid'in Sideway

[Grant Tokumi]

I've heard that term kaydex, but I'm not exactly sure what it is. I think its related to HDPE (high-density polyethylene) which is whats used to make those white plastic cutting boards. Is that right? I have some HDPE, maybe I'll try and use that.

I think I see the overall concept of what you are saying you did. But I'm thinking the hole in the gear goes all the way through, so the 2-56 screw can't screw onto anything. I must not be understanding that part right. Maybe the drill holes are oriented in another direction than what I'm visualizing. Or maybe you tack the piece onto the "shifting cog" (the gear like piece with no gear teeth sandwiched between the 2 gears right?) and not the gear. I'll have to open up my tranny again and look inside. Then I may see it more clearly.

Have you used that setup enough to know that its reliable? Stock EMAXX electronics or modified? I can see some potential there.

[Lord Radeon]

Got to thinking. How about some 2000 pound epoxy for the hole? (JB weld)

[Grant Tokumi]

Can you drill into jb weld?

[slid'in sideway]

Grant Tokumi,
You've got the right idea, either side of the gear has the cut outs for the shifting cog peg to go into.When you fit the kaydex peices in put them one side of the gear, top and bottom cog slot. If you've done it right the shifting cog itself will snap into place and hold tight. Everthing should be lined up straight so the it rides on the trans shaft like normal. I did drill two holes in the gear cog slot(very small drill) also in the peice I made. The holes in the cog slot are just slightly larger then the ones in the kaydex peices so when you put in the 2-56 screws they are doing a self tapping job which holds them in. So far I've had no problem with this set up, but keep in mind I'm only running modified mayhems for motors not a BL. At this point I have started to lighten my Extreme chassis more so I'll pulling everything a part and if you still need more help figuring it out I'll take some pic's to help. LMK.
Slid'in Sideway

[tmaxx_1]

hi, i have a question i am working on my e-maxx (trans mainly) and i removed 1 st gear i noticed that the spur shaft has a lot of up-down-side to side play. this does not seem normal. it is not the spur it self but the shaft it rides on.
any ideas?
thanks.