E-Maxx Forum v1.0

[Prinler]

Not sure where ya talkin... go onto the traxxas website and look at the exploded views.. tell us the # of the part.

[Grant Tokumi]

The spur gear shaft is going to be loose with the gearbox apart. But if it is loose (side to side movement) with the gearbox put back together, then I'd say you have a problem. I took apart my tranny this morning. The only way I can see that would create your scenario seems to be if one or both of the bearings that hold the shaft to the tranny case is missing. Maybe one of those bearing fell out as you were taking it apart. Thats the only thing I can think of.

Slip n slide. I can see now how that spacer should fit inside the gear to eliminate that basklash. I didn't realize it had to be that large. I thought the piece would be around the same size of that protrution in the cog piece that creates the contact with the gear. Now I see it has to be almost a semi circle size. Its gonna take some craftsmanship to get the piece to fit in that hole nicely. I know it has to be done with good tolerances, otherwise only 1 of the 2 spacers will transmit 100% of the drive forces (instead of forces being distributed between the 2 spacers) and could result in breaking the gear, or something else in that area. I'm thinking drilling a hole in the material to create a nice circular inside radius of the spacer, and then perhaps a circle saw or some other type of bit to get the outer radius, and then cut to size. At least the cog and the gear will sandwich the piece in there so it can't really just slide or pop out like how I thought I might be able to. Another issue is that my HDPE material I have is 1/4" thick. Thats too thick. I need to think of something else there.

[slid'in sideway]

Grant Tokumi,
Yeah yeah, you got the it. You might use two differant hole saws. One for the outside demension and one for the inside. Man I wish I would have thought of that. Man spent a lot of time dermnaling(shaping) mine to go into those two cut outs. The kaydex I got from my LHS is 1/8", it seams to work well. Hope it works out as well for you as it did for me. Good luck racing, too.
Slid'in Sideway

[thanghoang]

"Houston, I think we have a problem."

I went to run my Emaxx and something weird happened. I put the truck on my driveway and slowly hit the throttle. NOTHING! NADA! ZIPPO! The truck didn't move. I removed the cover and motors were turning but the truck just wasn't moving.

When I picked it up to check underneath, the half shafts that are connected to the transmission wouldn't spin either when the throttle was applied. Now here's the weird thing. When I set the truck back down, all seemed to be fine.

That's not the end of it though. I noticed that the truck no longer generates enough torque to pop wheelies.

Also, reverse was extremely unresponsive. At one point, it actually failed (brakes still worked though). I had the throttle control set for 70/30. I switched it back to 50/50 and adjusted the throttle trim. It still wasn't that responsive. After I turned the truck on and off, the responsiveness seemed to return.

Any ideas what may have caused some of these problems? I was thinking the drivetrain might have a loose part somewhere but I didn't really see anything obvious based on a visual inspection.

I'm thinking the "reverse" issue could have been radio interference. I did have a Jeep Cherokee running right next to me. Can a running SUV cause radio interference?

Thanks for any help you can provide me.

[Prinler]

Make sure you turn on the Tx before applying the battery. If done and it still does that. it mean you just didnt get a perfect setup. It didnt detect your controls perfectly.

just pull the plug.. let it sit till it calms down and then plug it back in. sounds weird i know.

[thanghoang]

That might explain the situation with reverse. But would that explain the issue with the motors turning but the drive train not?

[Prinler]

Well check to see there isnt anything binding in where the pinions are.

[Grant Tokumi]

thanghoang,
Regarding the motors turning but the drivetrain not. It sounds to me like the gears were just not engaged into 1st or 2nd. You say you picked it up, and then when you put it back down, everything worked fine? If that is the case, I would not worry too much about it. If it happens consistantly, then maybe the shifter needs adjustments, or it may be another thing causing the problem.

[Lord Radeon]

Yeah.... i'd have to agree there. check your shift servo and make sure it pushed the shift rod all the way in, and pulls all the way out (compared to you doing it by hand) if it doesnt, adjust the linkage. If that's not the problem, check your pinion gears and make sure they're tight. If thats STILL not your problem, you've either broken a pin on a transmission shaft, or toasted an idler gear ;)

[thanghoang]

Thanks all. I'll check the servo linkage for the gear shift.

[Grant Tokumi]

FYI, I started a thread called:
Powerline MAXX aluminum rims. $40 for a set of 4 rims!!
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=868933#post868933

Smokin deal on aluminum rims if anyone is in the market for some. Call Powerline directly to get that price.

[Prinler]

Diff balls are here woot. but i didnt realize you have to have two working idlers to make it work. :(

[Prinler]

Hey guys!!!! is the t-maxx Trani the same as the e-maxx? I see steel t-maxx Idlers are those the same as the E-maxx?

[Lord Radeon]

Nope, they're way diff. BTW you get the ones i sent you?

[Prinler]

nope

[Grant Tokumi]

Anyone of you ever tried these Maximizer rims? You don't have to glue the tires no more. I was looking into the aluminum set. Uses a composite plastic rim with an aluminum faceplate. Looks pretty good, but a bit pricey at $85 a pair.

http://www.maximizerproducts.com/index.html

[Prinler]

I think your nuts. Just get the beadlockers... those are awsome and are only $29 a pair

[Grant Tokumi]

You know they are awesome because you used them or because you just saw their website? Their concept seems awesome, thats for sure.

I've been stripping the plastic rims in the hex area. Thats why I need the rims to be aluminum at least in the hex area. Those Maximizer aluminum rims seem to be a good fix. I'm a bit torn because I just ordered myself 12 Powerline rims yesterday, and then today I see these Maximizers today. :(

But again, the Maximizers are still a bit pricey at $85 a pair when you can get Powelines for $20 a pair.

[Prinler]

I have seen them in RL.... somone at the local hobby shop had them... I read somewhere you will tear the rubber before the bead breads... thats good when your full speed in the air..... my tires balooon huge. im not complain :cool: I got some jumbo maxx tires anyone want them?

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Grant Tokumi
Anyone of you ever tried these Maximizer rims? You don't have to glue the tires no more. I was looking into the aluminum set. Uses a composite plastic rim with an aluminum faceplate. Looks pretty good, but a bit pricey at $85 a pair.

http://www.maximizerproducts.com/index.html

I have the all plastic 5(or was it 6) hole ones. I love it. It took about 30 minutes to mount all 4 rims. They feel tough and look great. The fact that they're going to be usable is another great plus. People say that even the all plastic ones are a little on the heavy side for racing. I don't race but I'm sure a brushless system should have no problem handling them.

I bought a pair of Road Rage tires for my stock rims. I glued them and wished I never did. The foams in them have shifted recently for some odd reason. I really wish I had beadlocks on them as well. Soaking them in acetone is going to be a pain in the ass.

I understand you want the aluminum ones for durability but they are going to be really heavy. They look great though. I think it's highway robbery what aluminum rims cost though.

Click for the beadlock rims (http://www.ultimatetraxxas.com/review_beadlocks1.html)

[Lord Radeon]

Thats odd. They should get there today then, or tomorrow. I sent them out like a week ago. A steel, two spare plastics, and two fresh bearings

[Grant Tokumi]

Thanks for the insights people.

Yeah, if I was racing this vehicle, then weight would be a bigger issue. But its going into my 60 lb robot smashing robot. :) There is ALOT of torque going into those rims. Enough where I was twisting MIP CVDs like chalk. Well, maybe not chalk, but maybe like a pencil. I could use plastic rims, and I was for a while, but this past summer, I think it must have been the heat that made the plastic rims (stock rims) softer and then I kept stripping then out, and consistantly too. I ruined 8 plastic rims that way, in 2 runs. I saw my money going down the tubes FAST!! And since it was "glued", I had to cut the tire to save the foams. Then I tried a method of saving the tires by putting them in the oven, but when I did that, my foams disintergrated. Save the tire, lose the foam. What can you do. :)

I guess since I already invested in the Powerline rims, I won't get these Maximizers. But if the Powerlines aren't up to the task for whatever reason, then it looks like I now have a backup.

[Lord Radeon]

Grant what did you end up using as driveshafts? Supermaxx cvds?

[Grant Tokumi]

Yeppers. Supermaxx CVDs. I've run those Supermaxx axles through 2 packs so far, and no signs of twisting yet. Thats good. Whew.

Using the MAXX system as my base drivetrain sure has its advantages. So many choices for upgrades. But this bot building stuff introduces many challenges as well. For example. I have my bot designed to use the old style MAXX arms and axle lengths, not the wide stance. And I have protective armor on the outside of the tires to protect them, so a wide stance may make the tires touch my armor. When deciding to order the Supermaxx CVDs, I found out that Unlimited Engineering stopped making the shorter old style axles because they would eventually get faded out anyways and replaced with the new longer axles. Bad news for me. That puts me in a predicament now if I need new axles down the road because I need the shorter ones. And since I couldn't order them, I had to find mine through ebay. Fortunately I did find some, and I now have 1 full set in the robot, and 1 set spare. That should be enough for a little while. But if I start shredding axles like I have been doing to rims, I could be down and out in no time.

[Lord Radeon]

To this day ive never seen a supermaxx axle bent. Just keep the CV joint well lubricated, as that's what wears out. Also red (green if you never want them to move again :D) loctite on the hex grub screws and you'll be set

[slid'in sideway]

Back on page 40 "Hairball" brought up the idea of a single speed trans for the E-Maxx and a thinner 3 gear trans would be much lighter, less rotating mass, good for brushed motors. Traxxas itself could do this very easily. I think offering this as a option would be great.
As for the 1/8th center diff setup, I think this might be have to be made by an after market manufacturer, Extreme would seem to have the best platform for this setup. I think this would be a hot BL setup. One or two motors.
Lets hear your thoughts on this, I'm going to start E-mailing the manufacturers to see if anyone has this in the works. I think both of this are ideas that this folks should consider this.

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Grant Tokumi
...60 lb robot smashing robot...

???:confused: :confused: :confused: ???

OK, I have to ask. What are you building a 60lb robot for? Battlebots? Special effects house? Chasing the neighborhood dog?;)

Any pictures we can see?

I'd like to see your robot destroy the new one by Kyosho. :D

[Prinler]

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1616968&uid=887958


Here ya go check these out.

[Grant Tokumi]

Yup. Battlebot. I don't chase the dog, but I do chase around a 12 lb bowling ball for practice and do head on collisions with it too to test structural integrity of the bot. Its a little tricky to hit a bowling ball. I've gotten better, but I sucked at first.

The main drivetrain components:
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/stand.jpg

With the armor on.
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/irrigator.jpg

Action shot:
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/buzz_fight2.jpg

More early construction pictures (3 different dates) and writeups.

http://www.rcarchive.com/robot/

[Grant Tokumi]

And if you want to see a mangled CVD, I started this thread :) :

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=87975&highlight=cvd

[Lord Radeon]

that cvd is disgusting... lol...


One minor question: why not use treads or slicks on the bot? why stock tires?

[Grant Tokumi]

haha. You like that cvd eh? I keep it in my toolbox.

I use stock tires because I could get them cheaper on ebay. ~$30 for all 4 with rims. And since I was breaking axles and really stressing the drivetrain, "more traction" was something I didn't want. But thinking a little more now, perhaps a low profile tire like road tires would allow me to gear up a tooth or so and reduce the stress on the drivetrain just a little.

Who makes a tire that has a really low profile (small outer diameter)?

[Hairball]

Proline makes some nice street tires.

[Grant Tokumi]

I forgot, I boycotted Proline a while ago for "lack of innovation" in the off-road tire/rim market. Specifically, tire mounting. If no innovation, at least drop the prices after all these years. Anyways, that another topic.

Perhaps I'll conveniently end my campaign if the street tires look tempting enough. I can mount them on Maximizers. :) The stock tires have plenty of traction for me. Perhaps after this next event in a couple weeks, if I get pushed around enough, then I may start looking.

[Lord Radeon]

Panther tire makes slicks that fit maxx rims

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=PAN0952

Use them with the ultra firm trinity blue inserts, and you'd get awesome traction and support for that heavy thing

[Grant Tokumi]

I didn't know Panther made tires too.

I'm actually using foams from Panther. Those things are even more firm than the Trinity blue foam. I like those.

Thanks for the link.

[Prinler]

those panter slicks are total FATTIES... I bet they give mad tracktion on lets say lenolium

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Grant Tokumi
I forgot, I boycotted Proline a while ago for "lack of innovation" in the off-road tire/rim market. Specifically, tire mounting. If no innovation, at least drop the prices after all these years. Anyways, that another topic.

Perhaps I'll conveniently end my campaign if the street tires look tempting enough. I can mount them on Maximizers. :) The stock tires have plenty of traction for me. Perhaps after this next event in a couple weeks, if I get pushed around enough, then I may start looking.

The Proline tires have smaller than stock bead on the tires. When using the beadlocks, you'll need to make sure you get their special adapter ring. I think the updated aluminum rims do come with this "buffer" ring. Just make sure. Otherwise your tires are basically "unglued" to the rim.

I have to say, I do like the look and performance of the Road Rage tires. Considering that that's all I have been running with since I got the truck on Christmas, they've held up pretty well on the salt laden asphalt roads. ;)

Oh, as Lord Radeon mentioned in a previous posting, the stock Proline foams are definitely way too soft. Mine seem to be losing their shape.

[Lord Radeon]

Alls quiet in Emaxx Land...

(note: never let your girlfriend drive your truck :rolleyes:)

[thanghoang]

Hey, at least your girlfriend is interested enough to even try driving the truck. My wife is still in shock over the fact that I spent over $400 for a remote control "toy" (as she put it) that only runs for 10-15 minutes at a time. I keep telling her that it's not amount of time but the quality of fun I'm having during that time.:D

Lord, I have a quick question. In an old post, you mentioned that you had a Duratrax Intellipeak digital peak charger. How did you like that charger? How was it with handling the new 3000+ nimh battery packs?

Also, while charging, did the milliamp "charged" display revert to 0000 after it hit 1999. The info at Tower Hobbies alludes to the fact that 1999 is the largest value it will count up to. However, they said this was for discharging which didn't make sense to me. Am I missing something here? My thing is I don't want to sit there and watch the display to know if it went past 1999 or not. I just want to plug it in, start charging, and then come back when the thing tells me I'm done. I have the Duratrax Piranha digital peak charger and that's what it does. I was looking at getting the Intellipeak as well since it also discharges.

By the way, did anyone catch the really crappy article RC Car Action had this month regarding the "80 styles" for the Maxxes? I was so dissappointed. While this forum is pretty good, the cover of the mag was quite misleading as to what the article was about. They had maybe 5 pictures in the whole article. Shameful!
:mad:

[Grant Tokumi]

My wife is still in shock over the fact that I spent over $400 for a remote control "toy" (as she put it) that only runs for 10-15 minutes at a time. I keep telling her that it's not amount of time but the quality of fun I'm having during that time.

I hear ya there. My fiance isn't too happy on my current investments in my robot either. Others freak out too when I tell them how much I've invested, especially when intended to be used with the understanding that having it totally destroyed in 3 minutes is not only acceptable, but is the main objective. :) I justify it by thinking the lessons learned in building bots and rc cars makes us a better person. And for me, it helps me with my work too. Managing time, budgets, and one of the best things I think we learn is to develop good foresight. Predicting how modifications affect the vehicle in the positive and negative ways, with more focus on the negative because those are the things often overlooked. As they say, "hindsight is 20/20", referring to when a design fails.

My 12 Powerline rims should be arriving today or tomorrow according to the fedex site. Hopefully someone is home when they knock on my door.

I finished some mods on the bot (make it lighter and reinforce some areas) and is ready for the next event in a couple weeks. www.steelconflict.com. Well, I still have to take it out and smash it around a bit to test and make sure things hold up. Its amazing how much effort it takes just to shift things around a little bit. I've been slaving over this makeover since early November.
The main goal was to move the drivetrains in around 2 inches (make the vehicle 2 inches narrower) and that caused all kinds of conflicts. After all is said and done, the bot weighs in at around 58.5 lbs, limit is 60lb, so thats good.

Tonight I plan on working on my 12 lb modified clod. That one was also a little overweight, so its the next brainbuster.

[Lord Radeon]

Yeah, I use the intellipeak digital right beside by Reedy Quasar. The MaH does reset once it hits 2000. Just goes back to zero. You get used to it though, it doesnt really effect the charger any. The charger charges 3000s and 3300s fine. If I had to do it all again, I'd buy another Reedy quasar instead of the digital, only because its a little more sturdy, and the power supply is built into the charger, instead of outside. The quasar's a little louder though, and about USD $10 more. Both are great chargers, and I'd recommend either.

[540ismiley]

can this be done? I am thinking about buying a emaxx. I want it super fast. can I get some help? How much should i expectt o pay to do this setup?
josh

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Yeah, I use the intellipeak digital right beside by Reedy Quasar. The MaH does reset once it hits 2000. Just goes back to zero. You get used to it though, it doesnt really effect the charger any. The charger charges 3000s and 3300s fine. If I had to do it all again, I'd buy another Reedy quasar instead of the digital, only because its a little more sturdy, and the power supply is built into the charger, instead of outside. The quasar's a little louder though, and about USD $10 more. Both are great chargers, and I'd recommend either.

Do you have the non-digital Reedy Quasar? My only concern with non-digital peak chargers is how do you determine if you peak charged or false peaked. With my Pirahna digital peak charger, I can just look at the final reading and see if I fully peaked charged or false peaked.

I would get the Reedy Quasar Pro but that is quite costly. I'd rather pump that kind of money into a Supermaxx suspension or other bling bling type hop ups. :cool: I'm only getting a second charger to cut down on charge times of both batts.

[Lord Radeon]

Non-digital. Its never false peaked on me. Won't false peak any more or less then digital will. Charger charge readings are worthless ;)

[Grant Tokumi]

I would not put a 10 turn with the EVX if that is what you are thinking of doing. Maybe 19 or 20 turn. Or lots of people are going brushless nowadays too.

Seems to me that 14.4 volts kind of puts a twist on the motor turn rating, as far as using the turn #s as a guide to get an idea of power. For example, you see a friend with a RC10T3 and he uses a 10 turn motor. I would not interpret that and think you can put a 10 turn with the 14.4 volts and kick butt. You'd probably fry stuff. I'd guess maybe a 19 or 20 turn at 14.4 volts might put you be in the ballpark of a 10 turn at 7.2 volts as far as power is concerned. You might actually have MORE power than a 10 turn at 7.2 volts. Now you double that power because you have 2 motors, and now you have a whole bunch of ponies (relatively :)) turning those wheels.

I heard of some people burning out EVXs and my suspicion is that that happens when people try and put in a motor intended for ~7.2 volts and stick it in with the EVX.

[smojoe]

can anyone give me a list of CVDs that fit the widemaxx (or 2.5) suspension that are hopefully under $50 a pair?



oh, and the slider part didn't break, it was the universal.

[Lord Radeon]

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=pro6010

Pro-Line by MIP cvds, $45 a pair

[jkerr0043]

OK guys, I'm thinking about getting an Emaxx. (I race touring cars and micros but I have an acre of dirt in the back yard that's begging for one of these.) I've got some matched 2400's I don't use racing TC's anymore. I'm just wondering if after racing TC's, will I be disappointed with the speed of the stock motors and want to upgrade to the Trinity mods right away, or do the stock one's hold their own? Also, do the new E-maxxes come with the wide suspension like the ProLine kit or not? (Sorry if these have been ansewed a hundred times but I'm not going to read through a thousand posts:)

[smojoe]

so the Pro-Line ones fit the widemaxx?! sweet! thanks for the info Lord Radeon.

[Lord Radeon]

JKerr: The EMaxx comes standard with all the Wide suspension goodies. Your set in that department.

As for speed, there are no aftermarker motors worth buying. The trinity mods are junk. The reedy mods are double-junk. If you want more speed, make your packs into 7 cell packs. If you want more speed still, your looking at a $250+ investment into the brushless arena. But to answer your question, no. The speed is hardly disappointing on 7 cells. :-)

[jkerr0043]

The Novak ESC that comes with it can handle two 7 cell packs? That's great if I don't have to spend extra money on motors. All I need to do is get an XXL receiver for my TC3 so I can use the 3 channel reciever for my M8 with the Maxx and I'm set, right? Anything else that's a must replace right away?

[Lord Radeon]

Yeah, the EVX has no problem with 14 cells. The 3 channel receiver will do ya fine. The only immediate/near future upgrades I can see you needing are Rear cvds, since the stock axles will twist and break over time. You'll probably break a few shock towers and bulkheads in learning to drive the thing as well.

However, a good investment would be $70 Dynamite/Losi shocks for the truck. The stock plastic shocks really suck IMO and the Dyn/Losis are the best 1/10 shocks out there

[jkerr0043]

Just out of curiosity, whats so bad about the Trinity motors?

[Lord Radeon]

Brushes dont last but 6 runs, the comms are horribly balanced. They suck mega power. Oh, and they *melt* :rolleyes: They're useless after 6 runs, that is if your last that long without melting or throwing a wind

[slid'in sideway]

Just what is says, I wondering the best shocks and setup, four shocks or eight for my E. I normally only run at the LHS's track, groomed nicely, a few good turns, couple of good sized jumps( the track was designed with 1/8 nitro buggies in mind ), and a really long back straight.
Tell me what you think.
Thanks
Slid'in Sideway

[jkerr0043]

6 runs out of a modified motor. That's a lot. I'm used to racing 11x2's and 9x1's in my TC3. I'm lucky to get 2 runs out of a set of brushes before I have to replace them and cut the comm.

[Lord Radeon]

WEll, also consider you can't cutt the comm on a 550, the brushes are different, and you have twice the maintenence. The stockers on 7 cells are faster, and dont require maintenance.


Slid'n, I prefer four shocks because of weight. But if all eight isn't an issue, or if you use stock motors, use all eight (my truck is LIGHT)

[jkerr0043]

You can't open up the end bel on the Trinity 550's?

[Lord Radeon]

Oh you can, and you can take the whole thing apart if you'd like. There's no lathe that I know of that can cut a 550 armature. The arm and comm are too big.

[Hairball]

Trinity and Hudy make lathes that will cut 550s. But the cost of the motors + the cost of the lathe is about $400+

Why not just get a Brushless setup? Same price, MORE POWER, LESS MAINTENANCE...

:D

[Lord Radeon]

Seriously =)

At the rate you'll go through brushes (again this is IF your motors dont melt or throw a wind) you'll be several hundred in the whole pretty quick. Brushless is the way to go

[jkerr0043]

You have a link to a good brushless site? I know Hacker makes one. Anyone else?

[Lord Radeon]

www.rumrunnerhobbies.com


Donny's a good guy, and their cust. service is top notch. I highly recommend rum runner for any BL purchases

[Prinler]

http://www.finedesignrc.com/cars-trucks.asp

[Soya v1.1]

Lord Radeon--Why are you so negative?

[Lord Radeon]

Generally, I'm not. I've seen too many bad things happen to the trinities... and am overly objected to buying almost any trinity product for a number of reasons. Besides, I'd hate to have another fellow EMaxxer spend $100 on motors and then turn around and ditch them for the stockers, or go BL.

[slid'in sideway]

Lord Radeon,
Another way to go may be with mayhems, I've had very good luck with them, but mine are modified, bearings and P-94 brushes with the brush hood kit and slightly lighter springs. Five hard runs and I can still see the serrations on the brushs.
BTW, you said your truck is lite, whats the weight of it?

[Lord Radeon]

Couldn't say exactly, but around 1.5 pounds lighter then a stock maxx

[thanghoang]

To Soya, Lord Radeon, and Hairball:

Looking back at the archives, you 3 were either running brushless or about to get brushless.

How has it turned out for ya?
In particular, what are your runtimes with the new brushless?
Do you now get more runtime than the stock motors with higher speeds and torque?
Or do you get the same runtime (8-12 minutes) but with just higher speeds and torque?

I've been looking at the combos they have at finedesignrc.com. I want more runtime than speed/torque.

Any suggestions for how to make the truck run more efficiently to increase runtime? I'm running 2400 packs right now. I know I can get 3000 or 3300 packs but I'd also like to hear how to get more runtime with a given set of batts.

[Lord Radeon]

Well, all in all, i'd say (ballpark here) 25% more runtime, 30% more top speed, and 15% more torque. But keep in mind I'm running a mild BL setup on a light truck. Results may vary.

All-out racing I get close to 10 minutes on my 3300s
Bashing I can play around for around 20 minutes


For runtime, gear down the pinion, and lighten your truck up

[thanghoang]

20 minutes of bashing per run sounds pretty good. I can deal with that. With 2 pairs of 3300's, I guess I could easily count on getting 30 minutes of total runtime. That would be fine for me since that's about all the time I have at any given time to "play".
:( Unless of course I get my kids into this as well. :)

I'm just running a stock EMaxx. I'm not sure how I would lighten it up without resorting to removing shocks and 2nd gear like you did.

I think I might have to look into this whole brushless thing for my next birthday...September won't come around soon enough this year!:D

One more question: any idea why my EMaxx won't pop wheelies on any terrain anymore? It seems just as fast and seems to accelerate just as fast as it ever did. No strange noises either. Nothing appears loose on the truck. It's really boggling me.

[Lord Radeon]

What type of batteries are you using? And charger? Could be that they're just going downhill and aren't delivering the amperage they used to be able to. Your slipper pegs could be worn (i suggest replacing with 1/8" diff balls). Your motors are slowly becoming more and more worn, noticeable or not, they are. To lighten, you can drill the chassis, dremel where not needed, trim/cut skids, remove bumpers, trim body, run a lighter body, switch to lighter tires/rims. It's tough, but every ounce helps

[thanghoang]

I'm using the Peak Racing PowerMaxx 2 packs. The charger is the Duratrax Piranha digital peak charger. I've only run the truck about 5 times.

The batts did false peak for 2 of the runs but on the last run, the batts were fully charged up to 2400 milliamps. I was thinking that this could've been the reason but I couldn't see how.

Slipper pegs? Hmmm...I'll have to look in the manual to see what those are and where they are.

[Lord Radeon]

they're the pegs in the slipper gear, under the spring and plates.

Sad to say, but those batts are a big part of the problem. They're known to be stupid and crap out randomly. Not very high quality stuff.




Note: This is why you buy the UE Servo saver, and not the pro-line kit
http://a1.cpimg.com/image/AF/AA/16202671-f51c-028001E0-.jpg

http://a2.cpimg.com/image/B0/AA/16202672-db73-028001E0-.jpg

nasty...:(

[Prinler]

Thats not nasty. It prolly still works. Quick Fix. Buy the titanium bar from UE no problems. :)

[Hairball]

How in the world did you do that anyway?

[Lord Radeon]

It wasn't me. It was critterracing from the maxxtraxx BBS. It happens because the posts flex, and the bar is forced against the diff, which bends it. just not a good design for abuse

[E-MaxxDestroyer]

I had those Peak Power Maxx Batteries too. One day as I was driving, one of them just burts into a little flame and then proceeded to melt itself. Not good!!:( Fortunately, nothing else was seriously hurt. I sent them bacl during the summer with a letter, and still haven't gotten new ones back yet, even though they said they'd replace them. Bad experience.:p

Just my 2cents
'Destroyer

[Soya v1.1]

ya, I've had a few pairs of those bastards. No power, and they melted after 1 run on a BL.

[Lord Radeon]

http://pic3.picturetrail.com:80/VOL17/812824/1446171/19504419.jpg

The bulkhead/hingepin i broke. Nasty

[civicds]

hey is anyone interested in trading a e-maxx for a txt-1.

[Imavol]

I am going to upgrade my steering servo and have a question which one fits my stock reciever.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ89&P=K or http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ90&P=K. Thanks for the info.

[Prinler]

The J connector if im not mistaken.

[Lord Radeon]

Either one will work

[smojoe]

imavol-
i have one of those servos. for the price, its ok, but if your doing anything more than bashing, i would save up your money and get a better servo. i, personally, am looking into getting this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCHB2&P=0
if anyone knows a better servo with gobs of torque for the emaxx, tell me. and imavol, for that matter.

[Lord Radeon]

Eeep, dont buy that from tower. You can get the same servo minus the heatsink for under $100 from www.ballisticbatteries.com

[haugbucs]

I own two e maxx's and one needs a new ESC. I thought about going brushless but it would cost over $400 to make the change over. A new RTR Tmaxx is about the same for the whole truck! Are prices for brushless set ups gonna go down? How do the stock gear boxes handle the power of a brushless motor set up? I guess I'm asking is the HUGE investment worth it?

[Prinler]

Even tho mine isnt what i expected.. its amazing. Its faster. Last longer. And there is no maitnace :) So you run run run run run run run then all ya goto do is DISCONECT THE BATTS!!!!

[Grant Tokumi]

Lord Radeon,

One of the things I kind of enjoy doing and kicking around is to look at breaks like that nasty bulkhead of yours and predict how it happened. Thats a serious impact BTW. :).

Funny that it appears that the impact was in a downward direction. The hinge pin is kind of a giveaway. :) Or down and in. Thats an odd direction. I would expect a head-on type collision. Like maybe coming off a jump, nose diving past vertical and landing. Without bumper? Or with aluminum bumper. Aluminum bumper wouldn't absorb the shock and would transfer it straight to the bulkhead.

You must have busted the skid too if the hinge pin is bent like that. Or the rear screw holding the bulkhead to the skid stripped out.

How close am I? Darn IT!. I just thought of something. That hingepin may have easily been turned for the picture, and may not be the direction of impact. I'll keep my guess in there as is cause I don't wanna look at that nasty break again. :).

[Hairball]

Looks like it shattered to me. Probably by snagging the A-Arm on something at high speed.

[haugbucs]

Prinler, what kind of brushless setup did you opt for? What mods did you have to do to the gearbox of the truck to handle the power?

[Hairball]

Its not the gearbox that needs help. Its the stock drivelines. Those plastic sliders will twist up like candy canes.

You need strong CVDs.

[Soya v1.1]

I twisted the sliders with the stock motors:p

[smojoe]

does anyone know how many volts is sent to the servo with the stock EVX?

[Prinler]

candy canes dont bend or twist they shater :)

[Lord Radeon]

I rotated the hinge pin down so you could see the break angle. It actually bent sideways, perpendicular to the bulkhead. Hairball nailed the break. My girlfriend 50/50ed the edge of a curb/my driveway. The tire hit the curb, and the rest of the truck went to the driveway. Needless to say, the hinge pin/bulk gave. Front RPM skid doesnt show a mark, it didnt hit anything. Carbon fiber chassis came out unscathed as well.

On another note, my MIP cvds are starting to show a VERY SLIGHT bit of twist. Hell yeah :D :cool: :cool:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
I rotated the hinge pin down so you could see the break angle. It actually bent sideways, perpendicular to the bulkhead. Hairball nailed the break. My girlfriend 50/50ed the edge of a curb/my driveway. The tire hit the curb, and the rest of the truck went to the driveway. Needless to say, the hinge pin/bulk gave. Front RPM skid doesnt show a mark, it didnt hit anything. Carbon fiber chassis came out unscathed as well.

On another note, my MIP cvds are starting to show a VERY SLIGHT bit of twist. Hell yeah :D :cool: :cool:

Damn I'm good. :D

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by Prinler
candy canes dont bend or twist they shater :)

I believe he was talking about the twisted stripe on a candy cane.

[Grant Tokumi]

Damn I'm good.


Darn it! :)

[madhatter6784]

im gettin my e-maxx soon it should be here today or tomorow im so excited!! anything i should get other than batts an charger?

[Lord Radeon]

*GOOD* Batts and a *GOOD* charger. You'll appreciate it later, I promise

[haugbucs]

Radeon is right! a good charger and good batteries will be worth the investment. better to buy two good 3000 packs than 4 or 6 cheap packs. More voltage=more speed, higher Mah= longer runs.

[tadium54]

I finaly did it. i have snapped a stock slider. my front left joint from the bulkhead to the slider snapped into a few pieces. I guess its time to go to CVDs. Anybody know if the T maxx cvds and the e maxx cvds are the same fit?(for the stock suspension)(sorry, i seem to recall some conflict between them)

[Grant Tokumi]

I remember this very clearly since it costed me some center drive CVDs to Hairball. Our discussion was in regards to the center drive cvds though, not the ones from the diff to the wheels.

The MIP cvds from the diff to the wheels are the same between emaxx and tmaxx. Of course you still have the difference between older style axle length and the longer wide stance axle length.

The center drive MIP cvds kits from the tranny to the diff are different between the emaxx and tmaxx. Dogbone lengths are different. Also, tranny output shaft diameter are different on the TMAXX tranny and EMAXX tranny, therefore the inside diameter of the CVD part that fits on the tranny output shaft also have to be different.

[Lord Radeon]

I'm out for a good four weeks. Turns out that hit to the curb killed my 5945mg servo as well. Dead amplifier. Oh well. I sent the servo off for a new one (free baby!)

Then, I sent my BL controller off to be upgraded with new software (also free!). Gotta go to germany, so it should arrive back here in roughly a month.


A month... DOH
I think I need a 1/8 buggy to play with on top of my maxx...

[Allen T]

I have a 1/8th buggy and a TC3, and I'm thinking of selling them and getting an E Maxx......(gettin bored) so here's some questions:

1) The new Emaxx has the longer suspension arms and other upgrades, right?

2) I've been reading the posts about Peak Power Maxx batteries. I have a pair! I've only run them in the TC3, and never had any problems. They're junk as far as running them in a Maxx? What's a good (and fairly cheap) alternative? (I have a Duratrax Intellipeak pulse charger, too)

3) How long do the motors last?

Thanks in advance...I've enjoyed reading the posts.

Allen T
Wiesbaden, Germany (US Army)

[tadium54]

Allen:

1) Yes, the new ones do
2)I think peak has redesigned the batteries. How old are the ones you have and what is the color of the shrink wrap? If its blue, i believe its the new geneartion of them.
3)A long time. mine have yet to give me problems.

About to ask a buddy for a new pit box, as mine is a little broken and pretty much beyond repair. Also took my stock body and took some of the broken pieces off to make it look like it has less front townforce, and threw some parma bigfoot decals on it lol

[Lord Radeon]

To follow up tadium

1) yep

2)The newer ones ARE different cells, and the failure rate is down, but they're still known to drop cells, leak, and not hold decent voltage

3) Forever and a day.... replace every 6 months and you'll be fine

[Allen T]

tadium and Lord R,

Thanks for the replies!! That was quick.

The Peak batteries that I have are the old ones, with the tan shrink wrap on them. I bought them last year, but haven't run the TC3 much, at all. I think I have about 90 minutes TOTAL on it. It's sitting here collecting dust. (the weather doesn't help, either)

I'm not into racing, just having fun. The EMaxx sounds like the solution...

Thanks again!

Allen

[ConniePede]

i am interested in buying new motors for my emaxx, i was thinkin of goin brushless, which motors would you recommend? i am thinkin maybe 18/19 turn...


what music would you be interested in hearing while watching a rc car video... go to the Spank Racing website at http://www.geocities.com/spankrc and let us know... sign the guestbook while you are there


Thanks for the help in advance.

:D

[tadium54]

Connie, anything with rock, hard rock, or punk/ska/ other forms are generally a winner in the music area

[JonDax]

Originally posted by ConniePede
i am interested in buying new motors for my emaxx, i was thinkin of goin brushless, which motors would you recommend? i am thinkin maybe 18/19 turn...
:D

I'm thinking of getting a Maxx, and if I do I'm going to get the Hacker C50 and the MasterCar Competition controller, you can see them on www.finedesignrc.com

Would probably be a lot faster than an 18T though!:D
--JD

[Allen T]

Does anyone know if the Team Orion batteries are better than the Peak Power Maxx batteries? (see previous discussion on Peaks)

I'm looking at the Team Orion 2400's on Tower's site. Sold in pairs for the E Maxx. I can send a link if necessary.

Thanks!

Allen:p

[Lord Radeon]

They're the exact same batteries

[oodlesonoodles5]

hey guys just to let you all know i am selling off my maxx parts so if your interested heres a link: Sale link (http://216.89.252.161/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=34;t=22150)

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
They're the exact same batteries

I wouldn't say exactly the same. I have the Orions also, and they last longer than the Peaks I had.

[Lord Radeon]

Soya, they're distributed by the same company. Under the shrink, regardless of any experiences of lifetime or otherwise, they're the *same* batteries.

[thanghoang]

Damn! Got a new DC power supply. Charged up my batts at 4.4 amps. Was all set to see how the truck would perform with the batts charged at this amperage vs 3 amps. Took the truck out and 2 minutes into the run the rear tire goes flying off across the street. I'm not sure what happened. I know I tightened each lug nut with a socket wrench! Oh well, it's off to the LHS to get a replacement nut.:rolleyes:

[Lord Radeon]

Lol, get five more nuts, and keep two on each wheel at all times ;)

[TeamMishap]

Just got my E-maxx and LOVE it. All my packs are side-by-sides with Dean's Pro-Bars or Orion Bones but they don't fit all the way down into the battery wells. The are kind of slanted in with the part of the pack toward the center of the truck seated well, but the part to the outside of the truck has the battery bars resting on the lip of the battery well. The holddowns fit over the packs (only the flat side, the ribbed side for S-B-S packs doesn't fit).

Anyone else have this problem or am I retarded?

[Prinler]

I ran SxS packs. Worked fine.. maybe your a retard. j/k make sure your solder is on good... some times people solder the bars with a gap between the cell and the bar. Can cause a big problem. I also take a hammer and pound my bars flat. It helps too. Do you use a Jig to make your batts? i would if you didnt

[Lord Radeon]

TM: I ran SxS packs, and had the same problem you did. The tolerance in the chassis is so close, thats its virtually impossible to get the packs to fit in flat. Don't worry about it, it happens.

[Grant Tokumi]

Originally posted by thanghoang
Took the truck out and 2 minutes into the run the rear tire goes flying off across the street. I'm not sure what happened. I know I tightened each lug nut with a socket wrench! Oh well, it's off to the LHS to get a replacement nut.:rolleyes:
I've had that happen to me too a few times. The most recent time it happened, I rounded a perfectly new aluminum rim while the rim was wobbling on the axle without the nut holding it in place. I could still use the rim afterwards, but the hex areas was a bit mashed up. As Lord Radeon recommends, I put 2 nuts on the tire now. Works good.

This past weekend, the nut didn't come off, but multiple wheels with axle, including the knuckle got taken out. 1 of them flew against a lexan wall 20 ft away from the my emaxx based battle robot (named Irrigator). The tire impacting the wall makes a huge bang. The crowd goes WILD!!! I lost 3 of my 4 aluminum rims (dynamite rims) in that 1 match against a full body spinner called rambite. Hopefully I'll soon have a writeup of my events this past weekend, including a couple shot of smashed aluminum rims.

[TeamMishap]

Hey, I made Prinler's Retard List. LOL. My first packs were indeed ugly, but now there's no gap between the batt and the bar. Never thought of pounding them flat.

Glad I'm not the only one with that problem. Wonder how tight the aluminum chassis's are? Know I'll be getting one of those some day.

Thanks for the replies.

[tadium54]

I have a Hardcore aluminum chassis, and it is pretty tight to get batteries in., espescially if its a sXs pack

[thanghoang]

Even my Peak PowerMaxx stick packs are a tight fit. The ends are scraping against the chassis when I push them down into the holders. I have to be careful so that I don't "pinch" the wires.

[Soya v1.1]

Ya, I had that problem, pinching the wires:(

[dont slow down]

I recently traded my nitro stampede for a emaxx, even though i didnt really want one, i figured i would give it a chance. i was bored so i made some 7 cell battery packs with some extra cells i had laying around. it was kinda tricky to figure out where to put the 7th cell and a hold down system took a bit of head scratching, havent run it yet, not sure if the esc can handle it. here are some pics of my setup, sorry about the poor quality.

[dont slow down]

here is another

[Lord Radeon]

all that wire cant be helpful...

[dont slow down]

yeah i know its a no no, but i just bash, im not worried about it

[Lord Radeon]

of course, that is if the electric flux doesn't melt your esc. wire = no-no :cool:

[dont slow down]

the flux meting the esc wire? i dont get it

[Lord Radeon]

Not solder flux. Flux as in variation of current... wire length, and resistance. I had it all explained to me once, but in a nutshell, this is what it means... The Controller has to pull more amps to get same voltage over a longer length of wire.

[dont slow down]

oh i see what your saying, the esc has to work harder to get the juice. well ill just make sure the esc doesnt get too hot. im still not sure if the esc can handle 14 cells or not.

[Lord Radeon]

I never had a problem running 14 pushed/matched 2400s/3000s to the evx

[dont slow down]

where are your extra cells? did you have to modify the chassis a lot or anything?

[Lord Radeon]

http://pic3.picturetrail.com:80/VOL17/812824/1446171/16897059.jpg

First I just put them like normal packs, with the 7th cell stacked on top and velcroed them in. You would also just cut the stock holder to fit on both sides and put #7 in the middle. In this pic, I cut the chassis so #7 could sit a little lower for CG. This pic is ~5 months old, now I'm using brushless

[dont slow down]

i see, yeah i didnt feel like doing a bunch of cutting on my chassis so thats why i put the 7th cell where i did.

[Lord Radeon]

http://pic3.picturetrail.com:80/VOL17/812824/1446171/18339533.jpg

current setup

[Prinler]

NICE DUDE!

[dont slow down]

gosh darnit, its raining today, so now i cant try out my batts. crappy weather, too bad i cant take it up to the snow this weekend.

[metalry101]

Nice chassis dude. That's pretty sweet. What heatsink is that? Tower says that Trinity discontinued theirs, and the Associated ones are expensive. As for the Orion and Peak batteries, ya they're the same, everything of theirs is the same. Their motors, their batteries, everything, they're the same company. As for the comment about pounding battery bars flat, that's probably not the best idea. They're shaped like that for a reason. That reason is short protection. If the shrinkwrap gets warn off the cell at all and the bar touches the bare metal on the cell, it will short the pack. That's why batteris have the little paper washers around that elevated positive terminal or whatever you want to call it.

[Lord Radeon]

It's a long associated TC3 heatsink. Fits perfectly over the whole length of my 4200 motor.

And metalry is right about the batt bars. shorts= bad ;)

[Hairball]

Here is what you can do with the same chassis Radeon is using with a bunch more money... :)

http://home.jps.net/~hairball/smside.jpg

http://home.jps.net/~hairball/smrollin.jpg

[Prinler]

but he has much better tires :)

[Soya v1.1]

Dude, don't be dissing the stock tires. The stock tires kick ass:D

[Lord Radeon]

to heck with tires, mine moves under itw own power :cool:

[dont slow down]

you guys have wayyy too much money lol

[Prinler]

Sorry for all the posts.

[adas123]

OHHHH, come on!!! Money is the coolest thing to have:D
Even though my mom isnt to big on spendy things:mad:

[Prinler]

:)

[Prinler]

Scarry, you can really tell alot about someone from just a pic.

[Soya v1.1]

That they're clinically insane?

[thanghoang]

Hey Prinler,

What chassis is that? Can it hold a 7 cell flat pack.

I've been mulling over hop ups for my truck. I figure I would start buying some when spring rolls around and I can actually use my truck. I want to start using 7 cells but the only chassis I've seen that can handle the 7 cell flats is the Supermaxx. Unfortunately that chassis is waaay too expensive for my blood.

I've considered the extreme carbon fiber chassis but not too keen on the reduced ground clearance. Plus it doesn't look like it can hold flat packs.

[Lord Radeon]

Thang, try www.bomb-proofproducts.com. They make a NICE lexan chassis for the maxx. It's extended, can hold nine cells on either side. ^_^ Costs $100 with custom milled extended aluminum braces

Prinler has a new-era chassis. It can't hold 7 on one side, only six.

The xtreme carbon has room for 7 cells on both sides flat, just order the one with battery cups

[rcpilot_971]

hello
I got an E maxx comming and I need to know what batterys pac's to run in it its for my son he is 7 years old so i need a battery pac that will run the longest I don't care how fast I just want the longest run time also what charger should I get

Thanks

Tim

[thanghoang]

For the longest run time, choose a battery with the highest amount of milliamps that you can afford. Currently it's 3300.

Unfortunately, batteries in this class might cost more than you're willing to spend for your son. If you want economical, then go for the Team Orion 3000 Maxx packs. You get 2 of them for about $50-60. They're not the best packs but you said that didn't matter to you.

Running the truck in 1st gear only will also extend run time. With my 2400's, I get about 15 minutes runtime with a mix of 1st and 2nd gear and not always having the throttle pinned (but also not just sitting still).

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Thang, try www.bomb-proofproducts.com. They make a NICE lexan chassis for the maxx. It's extended, can hold nine cells on either side. ^_^ Costs $100 with custom milled extended aluminum braces

Prinler has a new-era chassis. It can't hold 7 on one side, only six.

The xtreme carbon has room for 7 cells on both sides flat, just order the one with battery cups

I've seen the bomb proof chassis. I take a closer look at it. I'm just having some trouble believing all the stories about how tough it is. I mean, it's lexan. I guess it's pretty strong. Everyone raves about it. The room for the extra cells sounds pretty cool.

Have you had any problems with your xtreme chassis bottoming out while racing and jumping at all? That was my only concern. I do like that chassis. It's pretty sharp and it's relatively low cost was another plus.

[jkerr0043]

Lexan is what bullet proof glass is made of. Polycarbonite is essentially the same thing. The reason you're thinking lexan can't handle that is you're used to RC bodies that are .030" thick. just think about how much stronger a .060 body is. I don't know how thick the lexan chassis is but if it's 1/8" or thicker, it will have far more strength than a lot of other materials of similar thicknesses that are used every day for chassis.

[Lord Radeon]

The lexan chassis can take a 9mm handgun and not be broken through at 3 feet distance. Strong stuff...


MY chassis, bottoming out... hmm. You DO lose some clearance, because the chassis lowers everything to level with the front and rear skid. Racing, its not noticeable at all. There are the normal scuffs on the bottom, but nothing big at all. The RPM skid they include for the front is very helpful. For high jumping/crawling you lose that little bit of clearance, but think of it this way. It just brings the center part to level wit the front and rear skids. The actual bottom area is no lower then the stock chassis' front and rear skids, so you'd bottom out equally with either setup. Personally, I haven't noticed bottoming out. The chassis works a dream for me.

[tadium54]

Hey, Lord, have you had your diffs blow out yet? I think my 14 cell powered e maxx has blown its front diff(I haven't changed anything in the drivetrain really yet)

[rcpilot_971]

Originally posted by thanghoang
For the longest run time, choose a battery with the highest amount of milliamps that you can afford. Currently it's 3300.

Unfortunately, batteries in this class might cost more than you're willing to spend for your son. If you want economical, then go for the Team Orion 3000 Maxx packs. You get 2 of them for about $50-60. They're not the best packs but you said that didn't matter to you.

Running the truck in 1st gear only will also extend run time. With my 2400's, I get about 15 minutes runtime with a mix of 1st and 2nd gear and not always having the throttle pinned (but also not just sitting still).

Thanks Thanghoang
Do you know where is the best place to get the batterys on line also what charger should I get

[Lord Radeon]

Ah, tadium I blew both my diffs within a week of owning my truck. Thats with stock motors. I've run UE 1/8 diffs since they came out, I got the third set ever off the line. They're running like a champ still :D

[slid'in sideway]

Hay,
Just wondered how many of you out there heard about this event, I'm from the Joliet area, so I'm going for sure. Hoping to bring at least one modifed E, two if I get the other one done. Sounds like a lot of fun, hope to see you there.

[Prinler]

Hey I am going to Spool my diff in the rear and want to buy UE 1/8th diffs. Does anyone want to go 50/50 with me? let me know. I only need one, If there is anyone else who would be interested... like $140 ish e-mail me at hiimsteve @charter.net

[Lord Radeon]

Wont work. Talked to you on AIM and explained it :cool:

[thanghoang]

towerhobbies.com or stomerhobbies.com seem to be good reputable online dealers. Personally I bought my truck from tower. That's just because I didn't know of stormer at the time and I was a customer of tower years ago.

For economical peak chargers, get the Duratrax Intellipeak charger (the blue chargers). They're better than all the other sub $150 chargers in my opinion because they also include a discharge feature. This is important, in my opinion, for battery maintenance.

Personally I've decided my next charger will be the LRP Pulsar. Since I now have a DC power supply, the Pulsar being a dc only charger doesn't matter to me. Gotta save up for it though. It's $180!!:(

[tadium54]

Argh! never show off to your battlebot friends, especailly when you only have 3wd. Mine has now blown another universal, so it looks like cvds would be a good idea

[Lord Radeon]

CVDs are win.

I like the pulsar, but it's overpriced IMO. You can get an integy 16x7 with more features, for less dinero.

Sub $100, my charger of choice is the reedy quasar or intellipeak digital.

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
CVDs are win.

I like the pulsar, but it's overpriced IMO. You can get an integy 16x7 with more features, for less dinero.

Sub $100, my charger of choice is the reedy quasar or intellipeak digital.

Integy.com has it listed for $179. Are you seeing it being sold someplace else for alot less?

I like the pulsar because it has user selected voltage cutoff for discharging. The Integy doesn't seem to have that...or at least it's not listed anywhere.

[Soya v1.1]

I was at the LHS today grabbing some parts, and found out it would only cost me $24 to get my E-maxx running again:D

[TeamMishap]

Take a look at Integy's discussion board on their webpage. There are A LOT of dissatisified 16x7 owners over there. I placed an order for one but it wasn't in stock like the webpage said it was so I cancelled it. Glad I did now.

Seemed like a lot of them up and died after 4 packs and took forever to be returned and repaired. Not trying to be a killjoy, just wanting to put out some info before you lay down your $$$.

Looking for good prices on Integy stuff? Try here.
http://www.usahobbystore.com/chargers.asp
I would just CALL to place the order, that way you can verify stock before placing order.

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
I was at the LHS today grabbing some parts, and found out it would only cost me $24 to get my E-maxx running again:D

What was it that you needed to replace?

[Soya v1.1]

I used the bulkheads for my mud truck, but everything else is intact.

[smojoe]

i was out running for about 2 minutes and then all of a sudden, it stopped going forward. i eased up on the throttle and then i saw smoke coming up through the body. yanked the body off, and saw that the EXV was the one doing the smoking. turned it off, yanked the deans apart, and then took it inside when all the smoke had cleared. my question is, now what do i do? can i send the EVX to traxxas with some cash for them to fix or (hopefully) replace it?

oh, and dont say "go brushless," i barely had enough money to get MIP CVds.

thanks for the help,
smojoe

[Lord Radeon]

16x7 = Quasar pro

same charger

[RC-addy]

HELP ME!!!!!!!

ijust got a new E-MAXX and I have already broken it!!
:eek: :confused: :eek: :confused:
I went over a home made jump and completely broke the front end off!!! WHAT SHOULD I DO!:confused: :confused: :confused:

[Prinler]

Show us pics :)

i dont mean to laugh but thats a funny post.

Did anything break? or are you just missing screws? That is one of the hugest problems.... i would recomend buying 2 of the same scew sets just to start. So you have enuff for the life of your truck. If you ever damage one just toss it. Look atr your manuel and figure out what part broke. Once u figure what part. get the # and buy another part. Simple as that


my .02

Almost thought this was the Evader Forums haha

[Lord Radeon]

he might have broken the front bulks... but its rare for them to break at the chassis connection point. i've never had one break there, and i've put my truck through hell... pics?

[Soya v1.1]

I broke mine at the chassis point. Of course, I jumped a 11 ft drop....

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
I broke mine at the chassis point. Of course, I jumped a 11 ft drop....

R/C abuse!! :p :p

I sometimes wonder how you guys break things, then I read posts like this and go "THATS HOW!" :D

I guess I'm just too nice to my R/Cs. Except my TXT-1. That things gets major abuse....

[TeamMishap]

Do installing MIP CVDs give any speed increases to an otherwise stock truck? Didn't know if decreasing the rotational masses/diameters would give any speed boosts.

Saw HPI is claiming their Monster Claws are the lightest Maxx rims. Anyone have an opinion on the validity of the claim?

Thanks

[JonDax]

Originally posted by Hairball
Thanks. I may end up doing the same with mine because with the Xtreme Maxx chassis, there really inst a good place to mount the servo AND your Receiver using the optional lower CG motor mount.

Better rid of the servo means one less thing to mess with. :D


Is it possible to mount the shifting servo in the Xtreme chassis? I looked at the pics on rc4wd.com, and it doesn't look like there's a good place for it? I wanna keep 1st gear for wheelies!

[Lord Radeon]

HPI is ffs. the lightest rims out there are proline velocity dish's and you can drill those out to make them even lighter still.

JonDax: Yes, but you have to mount it with servo tape. Either way the maxx wheelies fine in second gear ^_^

[Grant Tokumi]

As far as CVDs, my current thought is that there is no speed increase by going to CVDs as compared to stock universals. Any type of "theoretical" differences would be negligible IMO.

Theoretically speaking though, CVDs probably creates a lower drivetrain inertia (commonly called "rotating mass") as compared to stock plastic universals due to the small diameter of CVDs, even though they may be a little heavier than universals. And lower inertia does increase performance, but the increase in performance would be more in acceleration, not really top speed. Like trying to ride a bike with heavy rims and tires (say twice as heavy as typical rims/tires) would be noticably difficult to start, but top speed would be around the same as with light bike rims and tires.

[Prinler]

Originally posted by JonDax
Is it possible to mount the shifting servo in the Xtreme chassis? I looked at the pics on rc4wd.com, and it doesn't look like there's a good place for it? I wanna keep 1st gear for wheelies!

you use servo tape to hold it down where it used to be. Just on its side. should have no problems



CVD's do help under heavy loads. The stock Sliders can slip and break. If your running stock motors its eaay to strip them out, snap, twist them, CVD's just give it a good Slolid drive line. You will see what i mean when you see the thickness of the acually CVD :p

[adas123]

I just got my cvds. they are so cool to bash around in. Not to mention jumping 15 feet in the air!:D

[Grant Tokumi]

Yes, I should have mentioned that CVDs are MUCH stronger than universals from a torque handling standpoint. If you twist out universals, go for the cvds.

[E-rexx]

I got me a nice emaxx
It has
3 proline bodies
rpm blue stablemaxx rims
proline maxx mulcher tires
mip cvds rear and center
rpm skid plates
rpm shock towers
rpm front bumber
rear wheelie bar
I think that is it.

O yeah, hot bodies blue shocks
O yeah, motor heat sinks

[TeamMishap]

Thanks everyone for the CVD input. Just wanted some validation before plunking down the dinero for them. Plus the CVDs will have me in shape for BL when the stockers die.

Just got my tax return and let the wife buy $2000 worth of furniture and still have $$ left over. Maybe she'll not notice the $400 gone for the Lehner brushless 1920/10 & Micro 1870. hehehe

[Prinler]

Men have needs too! ARR ARR ARRR ARRR MOE POWA!!!!!!

[civicds]

I just want to add to the cvd question i just installed them on my e-maxx and no there inst any real speed increase but i have a little more pick up off the line because of less slop from the axels.
also this is what i have on my e-maxx:

- f-350 sd body
- imex j-hawg tires
- rpm stable maxx clawz rims blue
- proline suspension kit/titanium turnbuckles
- mip cvds
- sock shocks
- trinity servo skid plate blue
- rpm front/rear crome bumpers
- dynamite red aluminum hexes/wheel nuts
- hitec 645mg bb servo: 133oz (steering servo)
- dean connectors

also i got a question of my own do you guys recommend getting aluminum skid plates or aluminum bulkheads first? One more thing is there a guareentee on rpm bumpers? I know there is on the a-arms but dont know about the bumpers.

[Lord Radeon]

you'll never destroy an rpm bumper. Aluminum bulkheads-yes. Aluminum skids-no. Aluminum is a bad material for skids. it bends easily. Buy Ti skids

[civicds]

thanks lord, but about the rpm bumpers I already snapped one in half thats why i asked if there was a guareentee on them.

[Lord Radeon]

i dont even want to know how that's possible. either way it wouldnt be wroth shipping and paying return ship on it. just buy a new one. (yes they're guaranteed)

[Prinler]

I personally Romp my maxx like crazy when it worked... Snapped the front Skids first..... then A-Arms... shock tower..... thats it. Every pay check i try to buy soemthing for my maxx. rest goes to my hunny for rent and foods :) you know the non important stuff. I would do what Lord says in this case about the skids. Or better yet you wanna buy my used ones so i can buy some Ti skids:) im tired of removig them, standing on them just to bend them back out right. lol

[civicds]

lmao prinler. yeah that sounds good about just buying a new bumper it would cost less. anyways FYI i hit a 4 foot snow bank with my t-maxx and the truck landed on the front end, thats how i snapped the bumper. by the way how much do titanium skids cost? what would be the best company to go with? also is super maxx any good? thanks again.

[Prinler]

Does Dell sell computers? Yeah Supermaxx is the best for most things. Unfortunatly they are alot like microsoft. $$$ Expensive. They are some of the most inovative people for us crazy people. They make things just like other people.the difference they make it so much better not only does the quality prove it-self but it looks better, runs better, and drains your drinking money so bad you end up eating to rommen for the rest of the week because whos nuts enuff to give up there beer?


:p

[Lord Radeon]

http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/skids.shtml

Ti skids that will NEVER bend =)

[adas123]

CIVIC, If you want TI. skids, go with Hardcore. Also, I know from experience, rpm bumpers are not unbreakable!!!;)

[Lord Radeon]

Erm, dont listen to him. Hardcore skids are overpriced, and not as strong as GA skids.

[adas123]

oh sorry didnt know about those.:rolleyes:

[thanghoang]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Erm, dont listen to him. Hardcore skids are overpriced, and not as strong as GA skids.

Once again, the Lord is correct.
GA skids are 3mm thick. Hardcore is only 2mm.
GA front and rear skids together are $70. Center 2mm skid is $26.
Hardcore front and rear skids are $84. 2mm center is $32.

One quick question about the GA skids. What is the purpose of the GA skids coming up past the bumpers? Is it just for appearance or does it protect the bumper/truck better?

[Hairball]

Has anyone ever broken a Hardcore Ti Skid?

[speedydave]

Uh, I've never seen anyone break one. I mean, it's ti. How in hell will you break a ti skid if you rarely even break a plastic one? By the way, if you know where to shop, the hardcore skids are cheap. Stormer has them for $34 each.

HCR Rear skid (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=hcr03094)

HCR Front skid (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=hcr03084)

[Lord Radeon]

I've seen several HC skids destroyed

[Soya v1.1]

I need proof.

[Lord Radeon]

http://216.89.252.161/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=9;t=16524;hl=bent+hardcore +skid

if i can dig up any old pics, ill post them

[Soya v1.1]

Oh, I'm sorry, I should've been more clear. I need PROOF:rolleyes:

[civicds]

i need money for my e-maxx. someone buy my t-maxx. e-mail me at civicds@aol.com

[Lord Radeon]

Go buy hardcore soya. :-p the only proof I have is what I've seen with my own two eyes happen. :cool:

[Soya v1.1]

I'm not gonna buy Hardcore! I'm can't even buy a $20 pair of speakers:(

[Lord Radeon]

NEither can I, don't feel bad. All my money I've gotten lately I've had to spend on soccer

[Hairball]

I've got Hardcore front and rear Ti skids on my E-Maxx. I don't see how they could break.

I bent the crap out of the aluminum front skid I had, but thats aluminum.

[slid'in sideway]

Ok, after Hairball said something about one of these things I thought what the heck I'd try to make one. Remember this is the first version of this prototype trans so it's a little rough. It's about half the width of the stock trans. Tell what you think.

[slid'in sideway]

Here's another pic of it.

[Lord Radeon]

Looks nice... what I'd really like to see is a center diff in place of a tranny

[Prinler]

WHOA make us all one!

[Grant Tokumi]

How did you do that??!! Cut shafts and case or custom machining? Looks very interesting.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by slid'in sideway
Ok, after Hairball said something about one of these things I thought what the heck I'd try to make one. Remember this is the first version of this prototype trans so it's a little rough. It's about half the width of the stock trans. Tell what you think.

Thats friggin sweet man. I'm glad I inspired you to do such a thing. :D

How does it work? What gear did you choose to use? And I wonder how much weight / rotating mass is saved by this "mod".

[Prinler]

0-60 in 1.2 seconds :)

[JonDax]

someone had posted about putting 1/8" balls in the slipper instead of the slipper pegs. What does this do, and does it work? Will it just wreck the slipper plates, or will they hold up? Seems like the stock setup isn't so strong, and if I go brushless, seems like it will slip a lot. Or maybe I'm not tightening it properly? I read the manual, but couldn't really figure out how to do it. I just put the wrench on and set the truck on the ground, and then rolled it backward and torqued the wrench against it to tighten it. There's a lot of flex though, and it didn't fell all that tight. Is there a better way to adjust?
Thanks!
--JD

[Lord Radeon]

1/8" balls wear better then pegs, and won't slip under a lot of power (brushless). Start with ten balls, and lock it down. For moer slip, go down to 8 balls, for less, use all 12 balls.

[Prinler]

If you go BIG! BL Then use all 12... but if you just go for the Basic i would use 8. you do want it to slip. ( poor diffs)


WOOT i got my order from Tower im going to go test me truck

[Soya v1.1]

Or you could get a RRP slipper.

[Prinler]

Finally got the parts i broke/lost last time.....

Ran it for 2 feet and POP PO PO PO POPOP POPOPOP POPO PO PO PO PO POPO PO PO PO POPOPPPOPOPOPPP


and i went GrRRGRRGRRGRGRGRGRGRRRRR AAARRRRHAAHAHAHAA!!!!!
ok looks like boths diffs are bare. When i gas it. i see the CVD's turn till it gets to the diffs :( lol dang. here we go away

[Prinler]

Test

[slid'in sideway]

Ok,
This is what I can tell you at this point. It was very simple to make, the hardest part was get the internal dimensions for the the shafts and bearing clearances. Hairball, as of yet I still have to weigh everything to see what I have saved but I still have some other light weight parts to put in it before I do that. I also have a new cover plate design with differant bearing mounts which should lighten it up a little more.
The only machine tool that was used to make this trans was a friends lathe, that was for cutting down the the output shaft. Other tools were a drill press and a dremal tool.
I'll take it apart and get some pic's of the internals so you see the insides. My web cam's not to good, but hopfully you'll see what I've done.
Lord Radeon, a spooled center diff is a project is in the works.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by slid'in sideway
Lord Radeon, a spooled center diff is a project is in the works.

Didn't Hardcore already do this with little success? I mean it worked, but not much better than the original tranny.

[TeamMishap]

Nice balloons prinler. Haven't seen any that big since I went to my friendly neighborhood stripclub....I mean dirt track.

[Prinler]

C50

:)

thanks


Notice my Problem?

Rear seem to work fine...
one Front works bad and one doesnt work at all....

[Maxxcrazy]

a center diff for my maxx is in the works. these are outdated pics. since then i have: cut the rear upper supermaxx in half, put 2 1/4in square STEEL bars instead of a bottom plate, and a full traxxas/supermaxx/rrp lightweight tranny. the chassis is built by me and its a prototype. I'll be selling these very soon. probibly in the next few weeks. My truck is very light too, fully loaded its at 8.5lbs.

ill edit this post with a pic thats less than 61440bytes

[Prinler]

HELP!
Well i was taking apart my Diff.......
Replaced the gears........
Put it back togeather and how they both go oppisited directions!!!!!!!!!!!

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Prinler
HELP!
Well i was taking apart my Diff.......
Replaced the gears........
Put it back togeather and how they both go oppisited directions!!!!!!!!!!!

Flip the diffs. Pay close attention to what side of the truck the "ring" gear is facing.

[Prinler]

oops

[Lord Radeon]

Hairball: On their mutant maxx chassis for the TMaxx, yes, but it failed because the chassis was crap, not the diff idea.

Slid'n, a spooled center is no better then a tranny. I want a real center diff.

And soya, why spend $ on the RR slipper? It slips not enough or not at all.

Maxxcrazy: Your in the wrong forum. This is for *E* maxxes. Drivetrain is completely different

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Hairball: On their mutant maxx chassis for the TMaxx, yes, but it failed because the chassis was crap, not the diff idea.

Slid'n, a spooled center is no better then a tranny. I want a real center diff.

And soya, why spend $ on the RR slipper? It slips not enough or not at all.

Maxxcrazy: Your in the wrong forum. This is for *E* maxxes. Drivetrain is completely different

You're talking about 1/8th scale buggy stuff right? Why would this be better than a tranny anyway?

[Maxxcrazy]

Heres my maxx (http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1442733&uid=811306)

im too lazy to post pics

[speedydave]

Wide enough?

[Lord Radeon]

For the same reason it's used in any high-end 4wd vehicle: it's lighter, and faster. It would distribute the power to the wheels with traction, and not the ones in the air. Plus the whole assembly would weigh a ton less then the EMaxx tranny, and would be tunable with diff oils

[Lord Radeon]

Maxxcrazy... nice work there. A lot of time went into that, and the (fake, but functional) solid axles. The width really is beyond overkill. That thing has got to handle for crap being as wide as it is... oh well, whatever floats your boat (or wallet:rolleyes: )

[Prinler]

I think that Maxx is almost foolish. Moster maxx? motors? and so wide for being to skinny? whats the point? and whats the thing that looks like a Farris Wheel? that cant be a Car or Truck


Tamiya Plugs? HAHA sorry dont mean to laugh

[slid'in sideway]

Lord Radeon,
The idea of a spool is that you get power to the full power to the front and rear diffs, but the power is then split at the differential units powering the wheels. I believe what you are talking about might similar to a thorson type diff. A regular type diff would typically because of rear squat unload the front wheels causing them to spin, the reason I know this is because I had a nitro USA-1 and even with a very heavy grease in the center diff it would do this.
A thorson type might be a little differant story, but from what I have heard if you put much of a strain on them, as in monster sized truck tires they get torn up much faster.
You have to remember these are just experiments to see if this can be done and how it might work.
And the other thing about this is any time you can reduce static weight and rotating mass you'll gain especially when you are talking about electric powered monster trucks.

[Lord Radeon]

Nah, no Torsens, I want a 6-Spider center dif with something like 10,000 weight in it. Would work well with the 1/8 scale diffs out there, because power doesn't unload with em =)

[slid'in sideway]

Lord Radeon,
Neat idea, but who makes such a diff and wouldn't that just add more friction and rotating mass. Plus basicly if it doesn't unload isn't it doing the same thing as a spooled diff?

[slid'in sideway]

Hairball,
Here's the skinny on the trans. Or whatever you might call it. It's locked into second gear. According to my scale it appears that I have reduced the static by 2.25 oz. and the rotating mass parts by 1.25 oz.
Yeah, I know thats not a lot, but it will be reduced a little more when I make the new cover plate with internal bearing holders plus the shfts will be taken down a little more too.
This is what the internals look like as of now.

[Lord Radeon]

slid'n, ofna makes it for their buggies. kyosho has one with four. It's not a spool, it puts power to the wheels that have traction, a spool is the same as a tranny. 50/50 power.

[Maxxcrazy]

I'm gonna put some maxx bowties in for racing. A center diff would be good. I'm thinking of putting in some Mugen diffs (the ones with the different ratios). These have a lower gear ratio in the front so the front pulls the rear through turns. This would be good for any maxx racing on loose dirt.