E-Maxx Forum v1.0

[Lord Radeon]

eh, mixing destroys your driveline and hurts performance

[Hairball]

Originally posted by slid'in sideway
Hairball,
Here's the skinny on the trans. Or whatever you might call it. It's locked into second gear. According to my scale it appears that I have reduced the static by 2.25 oz. and the rotating mass parts by 1.25 oz.
Yeah, I know thats not a lot, but it will be reduced a little more when I make the new cover plate with internal bearing holders plus the shfts will be taken down a little more too.
This is what the internals look like as of now.

Very cool man. Maybe I'll have to give that mod a try. :D

[TeamMishap]

Here's a question that I'm sure I'll be flamed as a moron for asking, but here it goes?

If running two BL motors and 12 cells, you'd need two controllers, right? There's no BL EVX type thing.

I looked all over RCZ and didn't find the answer.

[speedydave]

Yes, you will need two speed controls for the two BL motors, but why would you want two? One motor is plenty power.

[Hairball]

Originally posted by speedydave
Yes, you will need two speed controls for the two BL motors, but why would you want two? One motor is plenty power.

I'm still not convinced that one is enough power. I think I'm going to need two.

[slid'in sideway]

Hairball,
I'm going to make up that new cover plate and bearing holders. I'll let you know how that works. If that setup work out ok I'll let you know, at that point if you want a description of how I did it I'll get that to you and what I used.

[speedydave]

Originally posted by Hairball
I'm still not convinced that one is enough power. I think I'm going to need two.

Not enough for you, maybe. For any NORMAL person, it's more than enough. :p

[tadium54]

Well guys, i am getting out of the Maxx game for a while, and moving to a monster pirate. Its on ebay now(posted at about 5 pm today, for a 7 day auction)

Thanks to everyone who helped me(mainly Soya and Lord)

tadium

[Soya v1.1]

Yay, I helped someone! Thanks for the kudos:D

[Prinler]

Ok guys. I want to make a site dedicated to helping Newbie maxers. Please E-mail me a detailed discription of "If i could start all over again" What you would buy first. and second ect. What you think is most inportant. IE like i think Diffs are a major roll that most people dont think about till they are broken.


Hiimsteve@nosexforyou.net
http://www.nosexforyou.net/~hiimsteve/index3.html
http://www.nosexforyou.net/~hiimsteve/index2.html
either one :)


check out my site. it underconstruction atm but it works. Slowly working Phoitoshop into it :)

I will be adding a link to it soon. Thanks!

[Maxxcrazy]

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL24/811306/1442733/20652304.jpg
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL24/811306/1442733/20652309.jpg
now that is strong. Thats square steel bars. I'll be selling a beefed up version of this chassis soon. email me if you want one and i'll forward it to my distributor.

please dont flame the chassis, its a race chassis but still could be used for bashing.

rageweapon16@yahoo.com

[Prinler]

Price range?

I have yet to get any e-mail with pictures of everyone maxx. or even a discription...


hiimsteve@nosexforyou.net

thanks Team Mishap

[Maxxcrazy]

$60-75

Thats a lot less than the xtreme chassis.

heres the features:
Optional Shifter servo mount
Optional Steel bars instead of bottom plate
Upper Plate made from 6061T6 .1"(a little more than 3/32) aluminum
Bottom plate made from 6061T6 3/16 aluminum
Chassis Braces made of .325" diameter Black Delrin
Mounting holes for the EVX in the front or rear
Low Profile design
Bottom out friendly (strong bottom plate)
Keeps weight at the centerline
low CG (batts will be mounted on their sides)
Lowers Tranny by 3/8in
Optional Low CG single and dual Motor mounts (in the future)
Extended wheel base for more stability

[Prinler]

hey guys... I was joking around last night and i peaced my old parts from my maxx togeather. Kind of funny. I only need a few parts! maybe you guys have some i can have? i can pay shipping maybe... lol
I need
Bumper mounts
shock tower
skids
trani(or box [empty])
stock diff case's
maybe stock a-arms
body mounts

If someone has most of these is bad condition... cracked or anything. Im going to make a fake maxx.....

[JonDax]

Originally posted by Prinler
hey guys... I was joking around last night and i peaced my old parts from my maxx togeather. Kind of funny. I only need a few parts! maybe you guys have some i can have? i can pay shipping maybe... lol
I need
Bumper mounts
shock tower
skids
trani(or box [empty])
stock diff case's
maybe stock a-arms
body mounts

If someone has most of these is bad condition... cracked or anything. Im going to make a fake maxx.....

Kinda funny, huh? I just ordered almost every part needed to replace the stock pieces on my Emaxx. Only a few of the origional parts are going to be left. :p I can't wait! This weekend's going to be fun!

[Lord Radeon]

My Brushless EMaxx Toy Racing Truck.

The latest pics.

-
Around the backyard
http://pic3.picturetrail.com:80/VOL17/812824/1446171/20704404.jpg
-
The view most other maxxes see
http://pic3.picturetrail.com:80/VOL17/812824/1446171/20704395.jpg
-
The view god sees
http://pic3.picturetrail.com:80/VOL17/812824/1446171/20704386.jpg
-
Naked, minus motor controller
http://pic3.picturetrail.com:80/VOL17/812824/1446171/20704382.jpg
-
Dirt shield, keeps dirt from getting between the bulkheads and under the diff case. It's screwed on with the bulkhead brace screws and a washer, and the front skidplate screws under the skid. Double-thick plastic packaging. Works amazing and very tough :)
http://pic3.picturetrail.com:80/VOL17/812824/1446171/20704372.jpg
-
Homemade 700 MaH AAA Receiver Pack and KO digital switch. Very light, and the switch is convinient. Body on, one push to turn car on and off.
http://pic3.picturetrail.com:80/VOL17/812824/1446171/20704365.jpg
-

Questions/Comments Appreciated

[Prinler]

Lord you almost look like you know what your doing... :)


that reminds me. Whats the best Springs to get for the stock shocks, 70 wt oil, all 8, for a really heavy full alum truck?

[Lord Radeon]

I'll assume you mean springs.


Standard 2 hole pistons
50 WT oil
Trinity light blue springs or RC Raven Dual Rates (i never liked them much, but a lot of folks do)

On stock shocks works amazing

[Maxxcrazy]

i was just wondering, how do the batteries stay on? wouldn't they slide out on turns even if its clamped down?

[Lord Radeon]

They sit in the battery slots, cant move side to side

[smojoe]

couple ques regarding BL setup
what motor and controller are you running and how do you like them?
what gearing are you using? (i allready know about the UE diffs altering final ratio)
where did you get them? (web site, LHS, etc. )

smoked the EVX and dont feel like replacing it, so might try out brushless...

[Prinler]

Might want to read the whole post i thyink everyone has purdy much stated all that info. :)


I would recomend for the cheep basterds out there :) j/k
Lehner Warrior 7018 and a basic motor. its only $200ish

[Lord Radeon]

Warrior 7018/ Basic 4200. Will run you $260-270 anywhere. Gearing is (i THINK) 14/72 on the 1/8 diffs.

All my BL purchases are made through rumrunnerhobbies.com

Good guys over there :)

[smojoe]

Prinler-
im not cheap, i was just wondering what people used. i was looking into the Hacker system, but if anyone here could steer me into another company/ system i would greatly appreciate it. besides, i bought a maxx, how cheap can i be? lol

[Prinler]

good point

[civicds]

lord thats a trickedout truck ya got there one question though, what kinda body you running meaning who makes it and where can i get one thanks. Also prinler i run ae 50wt and trinity blue springs, but if you want to go with heavier springs get the black trinity springs.

[TeamMishap]

I'm looking at the latest issues of all three of the RC mags and the New Era ads are listing the E-maxx regular aluminum chassis at $39.95 and I call 'em up and they wanted to charge $49.95, saying the price has changed months ago.

What crap. It's been $39.95 fpr months in all the mags. Prices subject to change...change the GD ads!

[Lord Radeon]

Trinity reference body. Not good for bashing though, its VERY thin. But it's light, and pretty. I race it. Great body

[civicds]

thanks lord well at my lhs they are thinking of getting the e-maxx class started again. So i might pick one up for racing.

[Lord Radeon]

Anytime

[Soya v1.1]

Behold, the centerpoint of my new project! It's got insane torque, even more insane rpm, and it has a 6 tooth 32 pitch pinion! And a microswitch! Time to build a puller:D :D :D

[Prinler]

OMFG! what is it?

[dont slow down]

WHAT THE HECK IS THAT???

[Lord Radeon]

Looks like a normal motor with some type of case on it, and a gear reduction unit on it

[Prinler]

its a vacume motor :)

[Soya v1.1]

No, it's from a jigsaw. There is no gear reduction. I estimate the RPM with 16 cells would be about 30,000, and about the same torque as a nuclear sub:D
And lord, it has the same anatomy as a 540, but it's like a 1440:D

[Prinler]

$10 of my Lords money says it wont workGood luck~

[Lord Radeon]

Sure looks big enough... that thing must weigh a pound :eek:. Anyways, I'm in the market for a wheelie bar... any ideas, I'd like to make one myself if I can manage it. Maybe ill just flip the rear bumper mounts upside down and use that.

[adas123]

I dont know, that thing looks preetty awsome. Weredid you get it ? PLEASE tell me its not home made. :(

[Grant Tokumi]

Interesting motor. If it can be made to fit in the EMAXX, I'd be concerned about the downstream drivetrain holding up to all the extra torque. And that jig saw is a cordless jigsaw right? Or more specifically, thats a DC motor and not an AC one right? That would be important. Otherwise, looks like funky machine.

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by adas123
PLEASE tell me its not home made. :(

I'm good, but I'm not THAT good:p ;)

[Maxxcrazy]

am i imagining things or is that shaft around 1/4in in diameter?

[Soya v1.1]

Actually, it's a bit bigger than that:D

[metalry101]

Damn, that's a huge motor. Good luck clearing the tranny case. It should have insane torque, but 30,000 rpms isn't all that impressive. Then again, with that much torque you could gear it high enough to do 50 and still backflip it off the line. Anyways, my truck isn't going to get a motor like that, so can anyone suggest a good brushless system for me? I know the Hacker system is pretty good, but I've heard a lot of people in the forums say that Lehner (I think that's how it's spelled) is better. Also, I've heard that Novak is coming out w/ a brushless system made for the E-Maxx. Anyone know if there is any truth to this? Anyways, I really don't wanna drop 400+ bones on this. So in other words, what's the cheapest (but still good) brushless system that I can get? I need decent power and high RPMs would be nice. I don't care if my Maxx does 60 mph, I would like something around 35-40. Also, how do brushless motors and speed controls stand up to mud and snow? Thanx

[Prinler]

the lehner basic 5300 is a good start :) and the warrior esc :)

Lord Races with it. Its gud :) and cheep

anything conductive and esc's dont mix... the motors are almost sealed. so its mud proof almost. dont push your luck lol

[metalry101]

Any idea how much that system would run me? Also, does that ESC get hot? Would it be possible to balloon it like a reciever, or would it need airflow to keep cool?

[Prinler]

I belive you can get it water proofed before ya buy it :)
http://www.finedesignrc.com/cars-trucks.asp
http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/

about $200 :)

[metalry101]

200 for the motor and controller? I'm liking that, and combined with waterproofing? That sounds almost too good to be true? Which warrior speed control? I'm on rum runner's site, and they have this-
- New Years Special -
Warrior 7018/3 Water Proof & Water-cooled Controller's
Would this work? It's only 120 bux. and the motor looks to be about 125 off of finedesign's site. These the ones that Lord runs?

[Prinler]

the basic 5300 motor. The 7018 ESC.

on his maxx...

I run the hacker :)

save you your money.

buy your Supermaxx diffs first. you will be very sorry. very very very sorry. Im eatting top romen for at least 2 weeks cause i purchased mine :( i had to. i have had my maxx for like 3 months... broke the idlers.... broke the sliders... broke cvd..... stripping my rims. not to mention my Credit cards they are still smoking.

[metalry101]

So I would need Supermaxx diffs and what axles? I have a spool in rear and cvds. They would all blow up under the power? I really don't want to drop 400 bux into this truck to make it go. So how much would all of this durability stuff cost me?

[Prinler]

ok with a spool in the rear you should be ok.... CVD's good. Supermaxx Idlers are a must :) $30 or so..... Supermaxx diffs make me poor but the man with the most toys wins... trust me ... im gonna try :) whats life if your not happy.

I live by one phrase...
Its only money... you will always get more.

think about it really hard. Close your eyes and repeat it to yourself. Its only money. I mean i only work 30 hours a week. for $8.51 .... i split the rent of 650 with my g/f ...... $255 x 4 = 1021
rent is $450 with utilities :) $571 a month... if you dont have enuff to spend on fun... maybe you should get a smaller house :) bigger house = more stress = less happyness
bigger tires on your truck = less stress = more happyness


ok enuff
peace out

[metalry101]

I know I'll get more, but I'm only 18, I work however many hours I'm scheduled each week, which sometimes is 25, sometimes 10, for 5.50. Also, I only get half of each paycheck because the other half goes in the bank towards a car. Also, the E-Maxx is not my only r/c vehicle. Maybe I'll look into this, but first I really gotta save up. I'm working on selling my other 3 vehicles, but then again I'm buying at least one new one also. Anyways, thanx for the brushless advice. I'll look into getting that sometime. It sounds pretty damn sweet. Oh ya, I gotta mention, I love the bigger tires= less stress. That's why I'm getting those Hot Bodies tires when they come out. Anybody else think those things look sexy? Like 7"??? Hell ya, that should give me back my clearance that I lost when I put the Pro-line kit in.

[Lord Radeon]

Noono, i dont race a 5300. 5300 is crap in the maxx, it doesn't have nearly enough torque. I use the 4200 and the warrior 7018. Soon I'll go to a 1920/8 motor though for a little more power. Finedesign buys all their lehner motors/speed controls FROM rumrunner, so rumrunner will always have better prices. The Basic/Warrior runs about $260 for the setup. You can get away with a stock driveline for a while, but cvds will be needed soon. Don't buy the special ESC, it's for boats with boat software. Water cooled. Buy a regular warrior with RC software and waterproofing if you need it. The spool will (should) hold in the rear, but eventually may break. A basic motor isn't so much power that it would destroy the spool though, unlike some motors. Also, big tires+brushless = nono. Rims will strip, cogging will be extreme, and motor/ESC/batts will get VERY hot VERY fast.

My $0.03 cdn

[metalry101]

Lord~
Thanx for the clarification, but there's still so many models of each motor that I'm lost. Is the 4200 you speak of a "Basic XL 4200 - 110A"??? I think this is the same size motor, but I don't know if it's the same one you were refering to. Also, would this be the correct controller? "7018/3 BEC 70 Amps. 3 Amp. BEC - 18 Cells" It sounds right, but 70 amps sounds low for a 110 amp motor, but maybe not. And, they suggest the Micro controller for the Basic XL motors. Anyways, can you give me specific part numbers on what I would want? I can't find waterproofing on there either, is it more like a special request option? As for the big tires, couldn't you just gear it down like any other motor? I know you don't want to overgear it, I wouldn't. I just want my clearance back and for the truck to look better. This would work wouldn't it? Also, I have CVDs in rear, but I'm thinking I would probably need them all around, especially the center ones. The fronts hold up pretty well, but I have broken them braking before. Probably because of the wider suspension. Does all this sound like a plan for my Maxx?

[metalry101]

Just tried the Basic motor link, I didn't realize that they had the same motor designation thing going on. Is that the 4200 you are refering to? It's only 55 amps so then the Warrior controller could handle it. I'm thinking this is what I want. Would I be correct? Just one more thing I noticed, the dyno they show of the Basic 4200 is only running 6 cells. How many cells do you run, and how fast is your truck (like mph)?

[Lord Radeon]

I don't run the basic XL. I don't like the specs on them, they eat a lot of power for what they put out. It's a standard basic motor. Also, the amp ratings on the motor mean nothing to you if you drive it in a car. It will always vary depending on purpose and gearing. That IS the right controller though. I'd put my truck geared how it is at around 36-37 mph. Plenty torquey, and keeps up with the fastest nitro MTs on the straights. I guess I could gear it to go 40... but it would be kind of purposeless unless I was going in a straight line.

[hellbent]

how many of you have a 28.8 volt e-maxx?

[Grant Tokumi]

How many of you have a 28.8 volt e-maxx?

I got an emaxx based vehicle that runs on 24 volts. Close.

[hellbent]

I am working on getting my pictures posted so you can see MY 28.8 volt emaxx and i will tell you it ROCKS

[metalry101]

I'm liking this system, but what how many cells do you run? And what kind? Stormer has 4 Racer's Edge 3000's for 100 bux right now. Would those survive? I know they're not matched, or the greatest cells, but would they do alright, or would I need to invest in higher dollar batteries? Also, you said you were considering getting a better motor, if you did would you sell your current setup to me? If so PM me.

[Prinler]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Noono, i dont race a 5300. 5300 is crap in the maxx, it doesn't have nearly enough torque. I use the 4200 and the warrior 7018. Soon I'll go to a 1920/8 motor though for a little more power. Finedesign buys all their lehner motors/speed controls FROM rumrunner, so rumrunner will always have better prices. The Basic/Warrior runs about $260 for the setup. You can get away with a stock driveline for a while, but cvds will be needed soon. Don't buy the special ESC, it's for boats with boat software. Water cooled. Buy a regular warrior with RC software and waterproofing if you need it. The spool will (should) hold in the rear, but eventually may break. A basic motor isn't so much power that it would destroy the spool though, unlike some motors. Also, big tires+brushless = nono. Rims will strip, cogging will be extreme, and motor/ESC/batts will get VERY hot VERY fast.

My $0.03 cdn

not true. Chris buys direct from BK electronics. we had a nice little chat about it the other day.

[Doh Boy]

anyone here know the dyno results of any of these motors, or what the basic RPM, torque, and amp draw is?

[metalry101]

I don't know about the dyno stuff, but I've heard they're okay. The Monster Maxxes are supposed to be pretty good at least, but I haven't heard anything about the Reedy Baddmaxxes. Seeing as they're made by Reedy I would think they'd be pretty good, but you never know. The EVX should handle all of them except for the MonsterMaxx Pro 17 turns. I think there is a 19 turn Pro as well, and the EVX should handle it, as that is the motor limit. The amp draw would vary depending on the load, rpm, etc. The RPM should go up a little (a couple thousand RPM) w/ each couple turns down you go. Hope this helps a little.

[speedydave]

When I had my old E-Maxx, I bought two BaddMaxx 19T motors, and within 3 or 4 runs, both were toast. They recommend 16 tooth pinions, I was running 15 tooth pinions, and both fried.

[Lord Radeon]

Prinler, you are wrong, or mistaken. At this point in time, RumRunner is the only American importer of LMT/BK/Lehner products

[Prinler]

says who? rumrunner? thats rediculous. how do they get hacker? or other brands dude. Gimmie a break. He told me his self. so ya know. I dunno know what to tell ya

[Lord Radeon]

I didn't say anything about hacker. Only LMT/BK. ;)

[metalry101]

Hey, hey, hey, the two senior members here do not need to attack each other over something this stupid. I would prefer if you both just got along, because you both seem to know a thing or two about E-Maxxes, and the rest of us could use the info. Anyways, is anyone in here moving up to a better brushless system? If so and you have a used brushless system I would be more than happy to take it off your hands.

[Grant Tokumi]

Originally posted by hellbent
I am working on getting my pictures posted so you can see MY 28.8 volt emaxx and i will tell you it ROCKS
Lets see it... Does it actually work? ESC?

[Maxxcrazy]

I think he means it has 4 stick packs wired in parrelel to the evx. Its safe to do this becuase parelel doubles the mah, not the volts

[Lord Radeon]

Yeah... there is only two guys i know of who run 25+ volts in the maxx and they both have $4000 maxxes...

[hellbent]

first off 4 batteries dosnt constitute a 28.8 volt emax but when you add 2 14.4 volt evx and those 4 batts running 2 monster wilds then you test the voltage and you will find it comes out to 28.8 volts.
and using the dynamite chassie makes it very easy to do all this. I will post pics very soon but I am sure that will not be enough for some of you as prrof of the 28.8 e-maxx
:D

[Lord Radeon]

Edited for language.

[TrinityGuy21]

I see on the hacker website that there are other speed or esc controls .... The Master Car Sport is like 199.00$ but there are other ones for less $$$$$. Since I am considering the C50 Hacker motor is the Master CAr Sport total nessesary (I run two 7.2v batteries which add to 14.4v) to run my e-maxx?
Hacker w/ Master Car Sport
http://www.hackerbrushless.com/cars/emax.shtml
Other Hacker Controllers
http://www.hackerbrushless.com/controllers.shtml

[hellbent]

figure it out for youself Raden if you have 2 evx and each are pushing 14.4 into one motor and you have 2 motors that is 14.4 x 2 = 28.8 volts total running thru your e-maxx.
its pretty simple.

[TrinityGuy21]

Hey ..... Hellbent or anyone else can you help me with my post above ....... :) :) .......page 53 (almost bottom of 53)

[TrinityGuy21]

I see on the hacker website that there are other speed or esc controls .... The Master Car Sport is like 199.00$ but there are other ones for less $$$$$. Since I am considering the C50 Hacker motor is the Master CAr Sport total nessesary (I run two 7.2v batteries which add to 14.4v) to run my e-maxx?
Hacker w/ Master Car Sport
http://www.hackerbrushless.com/cars/emax.shtml
Other Hacker Controllers
http://www.hackerbrushless.com/controllers.shtml
HELP

[Lord Radeon]

Insulting posts are not permitted per the user agreement. Please refrain from such language in future posts. - Admin

[Prinler]

Originally posted by TrinityGuy21
I see on the hacker website that there are other speed or esc controls .... The Master Car Sport is like 199.00$ but there are other ones for less $$$$$. Since I am considering the C50 Hacker motor is the Master CAr Sport total nessesary (I run two 7.2v batteries which add to 14.4v) to run my e-maxx?
Hacker w/ Master Car Sport
http://www.hackerbrushless.com/cars/emax.shtml
Other Hacker Controllers
http://www.hackerbrushless.com/controllers.shtml

Master 99-3P Opto 99 8-24 No 3”x1.1”x.6” 1.7oz
Master 105-3P Opto 105 6-16 No 2.7”x1”x.5” 1.45 oz.


i would get the car sport ... the shape... the size... the mountability. Its pimp

its only money. get the master sport you wont regret it. trust me

[Soya v1.1]

Insulting posts are not permitted per the user agreement. Please refrain from such language in future posts. - Admin

[hellbent]

SO YOU ARE GOING TO TELL ME THAT MY VOLT METER IS WRONG?
CHECK IT FOR YOURSELF.
AND WHEN YOUR METER READS 28.8 YOU CAN APPALOGIZE
I know its now supposed to work that way but it does.
sperattly they push 14.4 but when you run them into a motor combined the end result is actually 28.8.
try it before you begine calling me names. as I am sure i am much more educated than you think.
and if i had to dump 4000 into my truck to get to 28.8 no problem
but thats not necessary.

[TrinityGuy21]

Yes .. thats good info. ....but.....if i might add ....... I only want to run one brushless motor (unless i need two) ....So the other two controllers you posted would work in my 14.4v e-maxx ???? :p

[Lord Radeon]

Lol, you cant run MMs on 29 volts. They'd throw the winds in half a second

[TrinityGuy21]

Insulting posts are not permitted per the user agreement. Please refrain from such language in future posts. - Admin

[Soya v1.1]

Yes, the Monster Maxx's would not survive under 29 volts.

[Prinler]

STOP THE HATE!

guys 14.4 x 2 does = 28.8

hes right about that....

but its still a 14.4 ghetto maxx

all the money you used to get the extra esc will only blow you up.

[hellbent]

I am not being hatefull but the truth of the matter is it is a 28.8 volt e-maxx and yes the monster wilds do go thru alot of brushes but its worth the brushes with the wildly insame power that the truck produces.
and i will post the picture as soon as i can get them online somewhere.

[Prinler]

I will host them for ya... e-mail me hiimsteve@nosexforyou.net

[Lord Radeon]

Hellbent: I'm crying for you. No, really, I am.

[Prinler]

Amen to that!

[JonDax]

figure it out for youself Raden if you have 2 evx and each are pushing 14.4 into one motor and you have 2 motors that is 14.4 x 2 = 28.8 volts total running thru your e-maxx.
its pretty simple. [/QUOTE]


It sounds like from what you are saying here is you have two 14.4v systems running at the same time. 14.4v x 2 still = 14.4v in this case. The only difference is that each motor is getting a full 14.4v instead of having to share it with the other. Unless you have both escs wired in parallel, but i'm not sure that's even possible.

It's like power amps for a stereo--I could have a 200w amp for two speakers, and that's 200w. I could go out and buy another 200W amp for the other speaker and then each speaker would have it's own amp. Both speakers are driven by 200W, but now they don't have to share the same power supply, so there is more power available given the demand. Same thing with two escs and 4 packs. Less load to the batteries and ESC gives you more power, but not more volts.
--JD

[Lord Radeon]

JonDax: Yes, thats the idea here. What a waste though with all the extra weight. Monster Maxx's are crap anyway... laugh

[JonDax]

Originally posted by TrinityGuy21
Yes .. thats good info. ....but.....if i might add ....... I only want to run one brushless motor (unless i need two) ....So the other two controllers you posted would work in my 14.4v e-maxx ???? :p

Hacker Master CAR Sport ESC -- there's a reason it says CAR
Hacker C50 Emaxx Motor

Easy to hook up, decent instructions and diagram for wiring 2 x 6cell packs, INSANE power, good runtime. Good case on this esc also, no shrinkwrapped circuitboard.

BL = $$$, no real way around that, it seems.

If you're still unsure, read this whole thread--then read the one on MaxxTraxx--then maybe call Chris @ Finedesign, he has lots of experience with BL and various vehicles.

[Prinler]

Call Chris! good idea.

[Grant Tokumi]

Using hellbents criteria, I now have a 96 volt vehicle.

[Prinler]

90 lbs e-maxx

[metalry101]

So anyways~
What's the best (fastest) brushless setup that I can get for 400 bux or less? The Hacker is a little over 400, and it's fast, but I'm pretty sure that controller is alergic to water. The point being, what's the best system I can run for 400 or less bux that won't blow up my entire drivetrain, won't fry good batteries in 10 runs, and could be made relatively weatherproof (for mud and snow, not submersion)? It would also need to be capable of handling the Hot Bodies or Pro-Line 40 Series tires. Whether it can handle them w/ it's sheer power, or simply gearing it down like a conventional motor, as long as it can accomodate the bigger tires, I'm happy.

[Prinler]

Um ... i think you would be mroe happy with the stock motors .... your to damn picky....

also goto the BRUSHLESS forum :) you will get your awnser there

[metalry101]

Can you make a suggestion on a system that's under 400 bux that doesn't fill my requirements? I can deal w/ the drivetrain, because I don't mind upgrading to CVDs in front and center. I've already got them in the rear. But i would like it to not fry batts, and be relatively weatherproof. I have heard that the Lehner controllers can be had waterproofed, so that would solve that. Any suggestions on a system for me?

[Prinler]

Goto http://www.finedesignrc.com/cars-trucks.asp
call them ask for chris.... he almost always answers the phone.

He will know everything....

[hellbent]

I dont mind the ribbing and i dont mind that you feel I am wasting what i have but i did this to be different from the others and yes the 2 evx are in paralell I am emailing the pics right now so maybe you can see by the end of the day.

[JonDax]

Originally posted by metalry101
Can you make a suggestion on a system that's under 400 bux that doesn't fill my requirements? I can deal w/ the drivetrain, because I don't mind upgrading to CVDs in front and center. I've already got them in the rear. But i would like it to not fry batts, and be relatively weatherproof. I have heard that the Lehner controllers can be had waterproofed, so that would solve that. Any suggestions on a system for me?

Umm, how about a Lehner 7018 and a basic 4200? I apologize if this combo has been recommended before, but since we're beating a dead horse...

[metalry101]

I'm thinking that the consesus of the best brushless system to run is the Lehner 4200 and Warrior 7018. Anyone know how fast this will make my Maxx, and what gearing they run? I think Lord said he ran this system, so I guess that question is for him, or anyone else who has that system and I don't know about. One last question, and I haven't had this one answered yet. What batts would be best with this? I know I would need decent ones. Stormer has a deal on 4 Racer's Edge 3000 mah batts for 100 bones. This is a good deal, but would these batts hold up? If I needed to convert them to like 7 or 8 cells for the BL system, which it sounds like the best way to go (but I'm not sure), I could do this, I have the tools and skills to rip apart batts. Also, if 8 cells was the best option, would one 8 cell pack be best, or would two 4 cells packs be the best? I could do either.

[Lord Radeon]

the 4200 reaches rpm limit on 13 cells. so 6 cell packs is the way to go. 12 or 13/72 on stock diffs will work.

[metalry101]

Sounds like a good thing, does it need really high quality cells or will decent packs like those Racer's Edge ones work? I don't run Sharks, those things suck for anything other than kit or cheap stock motors. The amps totally fry them, but will decent cells hold up alright, or do I need to run the high dollar matched packs? And why geared so low? It really needs it that bad, cuz that doesn't leave any room for gearing down to put bigger tires on.

[Soya v1.1]

13/72, and no room for gearing down? Pah!

[Lord Radeon]

ITs geared low because it's a small motor that produces mega rpms. Titans produce 1500 rpm/volt. This produces 4200 rpm/volt. You really need matched batteries for brushless. It will destroy normal packs. You also need Side by side packs with deans or equivalent connectors.

[metalry101]

Where in the hell did you get a pinion that small? I've never seen one that small, is that like 8 tooth? That's tight, but why is yours geared so low?

[metalry101]

Ok, so matched packs, can do. Cheap matched packs? Like SMC GP3300's for 40 bones apiece? They're inexpensive, but they're SMC, so I think they gotta be pretty good. Anyways, how much run time do you get?

[Grant Tokumi]

In that picture with the low gearing, I believe that spur gear is mounted backwards. If I'm not mistaken, it should be flipped over, exposing the hex screws so that you can remove the spur gear without loosening and removing the slippers. Unless there is a specific reason why its mounted that way. I guess either way works.

[metalry101]

Ya, isn't that the Robinson Racing dual disk clutch? That looks tight, but I don't know if it's worth it? Is it?

[Lord Radeon]

No, its not. Aluminum galls, then grabs when it heats it. It either slips too much, or not enough. Stock slipper works fine. And any matched packs will work, so long as the cells are matched close to one another. I race pro-match because they've been the kindest and most consistent cells I've gotten my hands on.

http://www.promatchracing.com/gp3300.htm

[Prinler]

Originally posted by metalry101
Ya, isn't that the Robinson Racing dual disk clutch? That looks tight, but I don't know if it's worth it? Is it?

it either slips to much or to little......

1/8th diff balls :)

[Soya v1.1]

It's a Bolink 8 tooth.
The slipper works fine for me.

[Prinler]

Its all about fun right?

[Lord Radeon]

Whatever sinks your wallet

[hellbent]

I know i will probably regret asking this question but whats so funny?

[Prinler]

Tamiya plugs...

[adas123]

:D that is funny, why not deans u.p.'s?

[hellbent]

that is a good question, I can honestly say that i just havnt gotten around to it.
been off work for back surgery so i just havnt gotten around to it yet but i guess that a good project for today.
got nothing better to do.
all my other trucks have deans.
I have to do new brushes today anyway.

[Grant Tokumi]

I don't see the .... funny thing about the Tamiya plugs. I assume its kind of along the lines of installing a kick ass car stereo with the highest end equipment, and then using 22 gauge speaker wire from Radio Shack.

I've actually still got Tamiya plugs on my EVX (in a clodbuster). I made an adaptor so I can use my batteries with deans plugs. Funny thing is that the Tamiya plugs don't seem to be showing any signs of wear. No mod motors though. I'm sure the 14.4 volts is a big factor in this. Motors won't have to pull so much current (too much current is what fries the plugs) to get the good power.

[hellbent]

well that "jalopy" is radar clocked at 48 mph so it must not be doing to bad .
I am sure that someone in here has one faster but i know mine is faster than most.

[Grant Tokumi]

True true. He's probably pulling more current than mine with the mod motors. It should fry soon enough if it is drawing too much for the Tamiya plug to handle. But if it doesn't, well, thats fine too. :)

[Prinler]

I cant wait for Occifers Dule 1930/5's


oh baby!

[hellbent]

I was just reading the hacker web site and i am a little confused
it says
Adjustable Current Limit or No Current Limit
but then it says 12 cells

[hellbent]

does this mean that 12 cells is the max or is that only a suggestion?
would it help if you ran 24 cells at all or would i be defeating my own purpose?

[tadium54]

LOL Lord. That was quite good. I wonder when they will be availiable in Canada? That was quite good none the less.:D ;) :p

[TeamMishap]

GP 3300s for $5.00 a cell

Hey I found some of these out of the box for $5.00, unmatched of course. Should I order them?

[Lord Radeon]

You can get zapped and matched GPs for $6 a cell... I wouldn't bother with those unmatched ones

[TeamMishap]

Where can you get em that cheap?

[Prinler]

INETEGY!!!!!! they have amazing prices!!!!

[Soya v1.1]

I had some Integy batts, they were awesome:D

[hellbent]

prinler i emailed the prices for all your parts I have a few of them instock but a couple of the parts i will have to order but i think you will like the prices.

[Administrator]

The next time I have to moderate a post from any of the members participating in this thread, the offending user will lose their account automatically and without warning. Grow up.

[metalry101]

Sorry admin~
I'm thinking we should stick to talking about E-Maxx related things. So...how many people in here are running normal (aka, Non brushless) E-Maxxes? It's gotta be most of you. I'm not trying to diss on brushless. I'll probably go brushless if I ever find the money, but I really don't wanna drop 400 bones (250ish for the system and another 150 for enough batts to keep my running) on my Maxx right now. I'm gonna get some other cars instead. What mods do you guys like the best, or that have been most effective for you? I run a spool in rear, and it helps a ton, at least I think. I've never driven my Maxx w/o it, but it seems to grab pretty well, even w/ the stock rubber. But anyways, anyone know how good the Big Joes are? I'm thinking about getting either them, or the new Hot Bodies tires, but the HB ones aren't out yet.

[Lord Radeon]

Big joes seem to hook well, they just put a lot of stress on driveling because they're wide. They're not that much heavier then normal tires, just wider. Unless you have a $$ steering servo, don't get them because stock servo has trouble enough with the normal sized tires

[shadmaster4]

Hey, I am going to get some batts, and I saw these:
Peak Performance (2) max pack 2400s
Orion MAx Pack (2) 2400s

which is better? Longer runtime? I don't have a e-max, but I plan on using it for my off road buggy? Has anyone used any of them before? What do you think of them? Thanks- Zack

[Lord Radeon]

shadmaster: They're the exact same batteries under the shrink wrap. Low voltage, high resistance, poor quality. Buyer beware. They're known to melt, leak, or otherwise

[Prinler]

Talk to hell bent i think he can get the maxx paxx for like $16 -$18 a pack ...... matbe less


installing UL diffs right now be back soon :)
let yalll know how it goes

[shadmaster4]

is there any other 2 batts that I can get for $40? it can be under 2400mah.

[Lord Radeon]

Save your money. Your better off with a cheap set of matched batteries. They'll last so much longer long-term, and they will be punchier, and better performing in the truck

[Prinler]

There is a reson they cost so little :) its not because they are good batts

[metalry101]

Agreed on the batts, I've got a pair, and they'll probably do fine in something w/ a low amp draw, but otherwise, no. One pack still works great, the other, is well, out of commission.

Lord~
Thanx for the info on Big Joes. I've got a Hitect 5645 digi servo in my Maxx so it ought to do fine. I also have CVDs in rear, so that should hold up. If I got the tires and started breaking the plastic sliders that remain, I could just get more CVDs.

Shadmaster~
One other suggestion on batteries would be SMC's. I've heard that they're really good, and you can get an assembled stick pack made by then w/ matched GP3300 Mah cells for 40 bux on Tower. Probably not the highest voltage cells, but they're matched, and no one ever complains about 3300 Mah's. That's a ton of run time.

[metalry101]

Forgot to mention, I just put my Maxx back together, and what happens? The EVX goes up. This is the 3rd damn time. It has sat in my room for the last month while my truck has been in pieces, and now it goes up in smoke. At least it's only 20 plus shipping to get a new one. How many times has everyone else had theirs go up in smoke?

[Prinler]

Dude stop blaming Novak.... it totally you. I guarnte its juu

[E-MaxxDestroyer]

Seven or eight times here......:rolleyes: :D Oh, and i had a pair of those Peak bateries--they melted too....

'Destroyer

[smojoe]

metalry-
mine went up in smoke. havent shipped it back to traxxas yet (no idea how much $$ to send with it and what exactly to do)

lord-
thanks for the info on the big joes. will be the next hop up i get (after grillamaxx chassis)

[Grant Tokumi]

3rd time? and 7th or 8th time??!! I haven't had problems with my evx. Something must be wrong if its smokin that many times. Too hot a motor? I thought the EVX had a overheat shut-down protection too.

I didn't fry my evx, but I did have mine get shredded (literally) in a robot fight against an opponent that had a vertical spinning cylinder on it. :) I started seeing orange pieces of plastic flying out of my 12 lb robot, and by the end of the match, the internal electronics of the my EVX had come out of the case and was tangled up in my opponents wheels. And the 2 robots were connected by the tangles wires. Needless to say, I lost. We had to do our after match interview together with our robots still connected. It was pretty funny.

[Prinler]

I keep breaking my maxx. im so mad lol....
the screws in my steering wont stay in with thredlock lol

I snaped my alum rear bumper :(



The funny thing is... full speed and slam on the breaks.... it does a front flip onto its wheels :) its funny

[Maxxcrazy]

Grant Tokumi,

You got any vids of your robot fighting?

[E-MaxxDestroyer]

One problem......I'm running the stock Titans:D

'Destroyer

[Lord Radeon]

Generally, the EVX's have an FET go out, and they fail. I never had a problem with mine, but after I sold it, the guy who bought it had it go up first run. I've seen quite a few failures. Definetly not the most robust ESC out there. Oh well, I guess I don't have to deal with it anymore :rolleyes:

[shadmaster4]

hey, thanks for the info, only my charger is a MRC 809. Can they charge nimh? This isn't really on topic, but i'll give it a try.

[Lord Radeon]

shadmasteR: I don't think so. Your better off having a good charger and decent batteries then a bad charger and good batts. Just save for a good charger.

[hellbent]

well I watched as 2 maxx speed controllers burned up tonight but none of them were mine (lucky me) but the electric expo was a hell of a lot of fun. I even bought me a carpet knife for $35.00 from a guy i know who was running it at the expo bad part he kept the electronics but i have plenty of those.

[Grant Tokumi]

Maxxcrazy,
I do have a couple videos of my 12 lber in action. Its on VHS though, not digital.

There is a small clip of it in this promotional quicktime movie here:
http://www.robotcombat.com/store_video_lvsf1.html

My robot is a clodbuster with a Grave Digger body on it.

[metalry101]

I'm running the Titans on my truck too, so the motors definately aren't too hot. The thing wasn't even under a load 2 of the 3 times it's gone up. The first time it burned up was on the second run. I had just put the batteries in it and turned it on and smoke came pouring out from under the body. I don't remember what happened the second time, and the third time was today, when I put it back together, and while holding it played w/ the throttle a little. Foward worked, but as soon as I tried reverse, it started smoking. Damn, but oh well. And Prinler, those frontflips are cool huh? Kinda scary w/ a 12 lb. truck, but cool at the same time, especially when your friends are watching and they can't believe the thing is still in one piece. I'm hoping to be able to get it to do a backflip onto the tires w/o the aid of a curb one of these days.

[Lord Radeon]

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL17/812824/1446171/21321129.jpg

Prinler lost his BL esc today :rolleyes:
This is his story. :)

[smojoe]

Originally posted by metalry101
<snip> I don't remember what happened the second time, and the third time was today, when I put it back together, and while holding it played w/ the throttle a little. Foward worked, but as soon as I tried reverse, it started smoking. Damn, but oh well. <snip>

lol, thats exactly what happened to me.
ok, on it, i have changed the stock plugs to deans. when i send it in, does that mean i have to pay the extra $25 (on top of the $15 for sending it in and $5 for shipping) because i "modified" it?

[Lord Radeon]

smojoe: yes. or you can put the tamiyas back on and save $20

[metalry101]

Dude, Prinler, that sucks. I can't even imagine dropping that much money on another one. It's hard enough for me to imagine dropping that many bones on one in the first place.

Smojoe~
Yep, probably, but now I remember what happened the second time. I converted to deans, and for some reason the ESC started frying my batts, like I couldn't even connect them for a second before the bottom battery bar would melt, so I sent it in, and they sent me a new one for 20 bones, no rewiring fee. I don't know why or how I scored that kind of luck, but from what I've read and heard, if you cut the wires, it's a 25 dollar mandatory fee. 45 + shipping is still cheaper than a new one though. The cheapest I've seen it is Hobby People, it sells for 100 there.

[smojoe]

one problem: i sorta "messed up" the tamiya plugs that came with it (lets just say i was bored and had a solder iron that was plugged in. the rest is history)

[metalry101]

Smojoe, if you really wanna put Tamiya's back on, you can just go buy some more. 2 pairs oughta be well under 5 bux.

[Lord Radeon]

Hacker will warranty it for free. They're known to stand by their products and give great service.

[metalry101]

Oh, saweet, i didn't know Hacker did that. I can justify that pricetag now. I could see dropping that much money on it if it's warrantied.

[JonDax]

Originally posted by metalry101
I converted to deans, and for some reason the ESC started frying my batts, like I couldn't even connect them for a second before the bottom battery bar would melt,

This happened to me too. The reason for mine was because when I rewired I just grabbed the left pair of red and blacks and wired them to one plug, and the right pair to another. It turns out (after looking at the wiring diagram) that the red wires cross if wired properly, i.e. the right red wire connects to the left plug and the left wire to the right plug. I didn't think it would make a difference, and proceeded to burn out the bottoms of two stick packs before I realized what was happening. I switched the connections and all was fine, no smoking EVX or anything. Expensive lesson to read the instructions FIRST.

As for the Hacker burning up like that, I think/hope there must have been a short somewhere in the system to cause that, like a battery bar touching an aluminum chassis or something? Because I don't want to be thinking my new Hacker esc is so fragile! :D I hope not.

Sorry about the news Prinler, I was looking forward to hearing how your truck runs with all your recent mods. I hope hacker does you right with a new esc--at least they have a US distributor with a phone number!
--JD

[Grant Tokumi]

Ahh, I can see how swapping the wires can fry batts. 2 batts are hooked in series to create 14.4 volts. With connectors incorrectly wired, this will instantly short out 1 of the batts. I tried to draw an asci diagram, but it didn't work. But if you draw a series circuit on paper, and kind of work out what you did to the circuit by swapping the + on the connectors, you can see that you end up with a circuit that shorts 1 of the batts.

[TeamMishap]

Took my Dremel to my E today. I cut 1/2 inch out the side of the chassis where the batts sit (not whole side, just where batteries sit) and SXSs sit flat now! Amen. I know it's stupid, but it bugged the S*** outta me.

[Soya v1.1]

I used a T-maxx chassis. No problems there:D

[Prinler]

Well to tell ya the truth, I regret all the modifications.... I have a new era chassis, alum bluks from integy, alum chasis braces,


ITS FOOOOOOOkin heavy.... its like a 15 lbs truck.. i wish i could weight it. Its fast but i cant pull a wheelie.... i see the rear sink down. and the wheele wants to pop up but NO VA! I just cant get the bugger to pop up..... This is the first time i have been able to run it with the 8 inch's of wire cut off from the ESC to the MOTOR.... the esc has been running on my pro 2 for about a month now... and the motors doesnt even get hot. nor does the ESC.... Straped the Super Maxx diffs in my maxx and its slow.... they say that the Super Maxx diff will gear ya down some but dude!!!! its slower then stock. I took the pinion off and tried to push the truck. It pushed fine. nothing is binding. im at a loss for words ( j/k!) Any hoot im gonna contact HAcker tomorrow and beg them for an advanced replacment or something. It bothers me so much knowing the only mod i did to my maxx since the last time i ran it ( before i blew my diffs out ) was supermaxx diffs.


Thanks for listening guys. lemme know if you have heard of anything like this before.

[metalry101]

JonDax~
Ya, later when I looked at the diagram, I saw the exact same thing. Didn't matter though, Traxxas replaced it for 20 bux.

Prinler~
That sucks that your truck is so heavy, of course that's why I run almost stock everything. The only mod that I can think of that added weight is the Pro-Line suspension kit, and it's worth every gram. Of course a few rocks have skimmed 'em down a little, but still.

[TrinityGuy21]

Hey guys me again ..... I want to post some pics of my maxx ....but... the 61440 bytes is killing me .... I can't get my 5760000 byte pic to post .... can anyone help me with the byte post limit

[Prinler]

e-mail them to hiimsteve@nosexforyou.net

[TrinityGuy21]

okay

[540ismiley]

I have a emaxx with 2 duratrax 16t esc's I want this truck to go as fast a possible. What are some good motors I can put in it and some tips if any?
josh

[metalry101]

I would reccomend the Trinity Monster Maxx Pro 17 singles. I haven't run them, but I've heard they're pretty good. You'll have to actually rip them apart and clean them once in a while, unlike the Titans, and they will also just wear out after time, but they should be a bit faster than stock.

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by metalry101
I would reccomend the Trinity Monster Maxx Pro 17 singles. I haven't run them, but I've heard they're pretty good. You'll have to actually rip them apart and clean them once in a while, unlike the Titans, and they will also just wear out after time, but they should be a bit faster than stock.

Do NOT buy monster maxx motors. Not only are they total crap, they won't work with your 7.2 volt speedos. You'll need 7.2 volt motors

[Maxxmtpro]

hello guys im the new newbi to the emaxx just ordered mine today hope to get it end of week so if any of you got any good tips for me on whats the best set up or what ever

heres what i bought

green E-maxx 319.99

Team Orion V-maxx super duty 2400 packs 41.99

Duratrax skid set front,and rear 31.99

Duratrax skid plate center 19.99

- 15 bucks promotional discount and i get a grand total of 406.95

i also bought an Atomik body pre painted and pre trimmed blue/silver flames

hope to have pictures up soon
Dan

[Lord Radeon]

You'll want a good set of batteries and a good charger for starters...

[Maxxmtpro]

i got a good set of batteries


2 2400 and a duratrax pirrahna charger/discharger with meter

[Lord Radeon]

VMaxx's are the crappiest 2400s there are on the market. High resistance, low voltage, and low runtime.

Oh, and that charger is even worse.

[Soya v1.1]

Maxxmtpro-- Don't listen to Lord Radeon, he's very negative, and thinks everybody should have top o' the line stuff. I have those 2400's, they're fine. And your chargers better than mine.

[Lord Radeon]

Eh, soya he has a timer charger :rolleyes:

[Soya v1.1]

And it works perfectly fine, so leave us people alone.

[Lord Radeon]

-sigh-

[Soya v1.1]

Oh, how stressed you must be:rolleyes:

[Lord Radeon]

and i QUOTE

so if any of you got any good tips for me on whats the best set up or what ever

And he'd enjoy the truck twice as much with quality electronics, simply because they DO work THAT much better. Lay off.

[Soya v1.1]

And I Quote

Good tips

End Quote

[Lord Radeon]

Is buying a good charger not a good tip?

[Prinler]

I think soya has a 24 hour radio shack wall charger :rolleyes:

Good upgrades.... personally the $39 you prolly paid for the charger was ok for a newbie.... you have to remember that Electric r/c is based on electricity... so the best thing to buy is things that help get the best proformance out of your maxx or other r/c thing. So on that note... Good Batteries ( ones with low resistance and high voltage ) are always a plus, with good batts you need the proper charger for your application. If your a backyard basher and you want to hold your packs in your hand while they charge..... go right ahead. I prefer to get a charger that helps me get the best out of my batts. the superbrain 959 is like $44 if ya get a good deal. will chage anything you can throw at it. But then again its a $44 charger..... next is delivering the power from your well cahrged batts to your controler so that it can decide how much jucie to give the motors..... The batts connect to the esc via tamiya plugs, these where invented by cave men. Your best bet is to remove the tamiya plugs and get your like 6 sets of deans ultra plugs.... ok once you the electricity to the esc it goes the the motor. The motor is attached to the ESC with another cave man plug called bullet connectors, you will want to cut them off and solder the wires directly to each other. nice and solid! Once you have this compleat you should have a solid setup..... anyone else disagree? didnt think so.

[Soya v1.1]

I do. I don't have a Radioshack charger:rolleyes:

[TmBurningSkulls]

Hi my good freinds, I just have ! big? What gearing would or have you used for the stock Clod Buster rims and tires. Yes I know that they are Clod But with no foams these get the great traction when offroading:cool: E-Maxx rule
So if you know and good gearing I would love to know what it is

Thanks D-Man
MuddDigger85@aol.comGas is just a pain in the A#$

[Lord Radeon]

TM since the clods are a little bigger, try a 16 or 17 tooth pinion.

[TmBurningSkulls]

Thanks Lord ill try that today

[Maxxmtpro]

Thanks prinler

[Maxxmtpro]

and lord radeon i didnt see what you thought was the BEST packs or BEST charger was and as far as the charger goes ive owned the charger almost a year and it has worked great

[metalry101]

I agree w/ Lord that better electronics equal more fun, but you don't need top of the line stuff. I totally agree on the Super Brain, it's not the best, but it's more than good enough for a beginner. I personally run the Pirahna Digital. It's only 50 bux, and it works great for me. I would love something like a Reedy Quasar Pro, or the LRP Pulsar (?), but they're 180 chargers. Peak chargers are worth every penny though. Timed chargers are horrid, even for beginners. They charge fine, but they don't do the batteries any good. You'll save money in the long run if you run a peak charger, and even more money if you get a good one. Also, cheap batteries do have all the qualities that Lord says they do, except that in your situation, they're probably the best option. I doubt many people in here run matched cells in their Maxx, it's just too expensive to run more than one pair. I personally run 3 pairs of 7-cell Trinity Amp Max II's. They're cheap, but they're Sanyo cells, and I got them for like 8 or 9 bux a pack, so I'm not complaining. My run time isn't great, but I did get all 7 packs (6 to run and one to rip apart) for under 70 bux. I don't think anyone is going to tell me that's a bad deal.

[metalry101]

Forgot to add, if all you're doing is backyard bashing, then don't convert the plugs to deans. They are definately better in every way, and I mean every way, but if your EVX fries, and believe me, it will one of these days, it costs over twice as much to fix. If the speed control fries, then you send it in, and it's 20 bux for Traxxas to fix it, or send you a new one if they can't. However, if you cut the wires at all, i.e. putting Deans connectors on, they charge a 25 dollar rewiring fee, no matter what caused the speed control to fry. If you plan to race or you use really really good batteries and they melt the connectors, or money is no object, go ahead and convert, but otherwise the stock Tamiya and bullet connectors work fine. The loss in performance is minimal, while the impact on the wallet is not.

[TrinityGuy21]

Quote from Lord Radeon:
Do NOT buy monster maxx motors. Not only are they total crap, they won't work with your 7.2 volt speedos. You'll need 7.2 volt motors


I was thinking about the Monster Maxx Wild motors myself ... so there "Crap" is this true ...also what about the Reedy BadMAxx motors or something like that .... Your Thoguhts

Also a pic of my maxx at the E-maxx Brushless Forum
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=117717&perpage=25&pagenumber=2

[Lord Radeon]

They wear fast, the performance gain over stockers is minimal for their huge price tag, they can overheat the EVX easily, they themselves overheat easily, they've been known to melt their endbells.

As far as BEST matched packs, it's pretty irrelevant. So long as you get matched packs, its going to do you good. The difference between the best and lowest-end matched packs is ~5% of performance. NEgligible, as the higher end packs cost twice as much. You can get 3300 MaH matched sticks of sanyo cells from pro-match for $29 a pack. Matched, and the cells are high quality. Matched GP packs unassembled start at $36 pack. The price can't be beat anywhere.

www.promatchracing.com



For chargers, you NEED a peak charger for pack life and performance. Here's a list of good chargers under price categories

$40-50 Range
---
Duratrax Pirahna Digital
MRC Superbrain
Duratrax Intellipeak Standard
Dynamite Vision Peak 2
---
$100 Range
---
Reedy Quasar
Duratrax Intellipeak Digital
Novak Millenium
Integy 16x5
---
$100+ Range (Overkill, IMO)
---
Quasar Pro -- Integy 16x7 (same charger)
CE TurboThirty
LRP Pulsar

[Soya v1.1]

Don't listen to him. You can't form an opinion on something you've never owned. The Reedy motors are crap, bushings and locked timing. I owned one.

[speedydave]

I had two Reedy BadMaxx Mild motors on my Emaxx when I had it. They are crap. I had my truck geared correctly(a little under geared, actually), and both motors fried within 3 packs, and never had good performance to begin with. I probably got some bad motors, but both of them? :rolleyes:

[JonDax]

It seems to me that the best bang for the buck if you're not going to go brushless is to just go to 7cell packs on the stock motors and EVX. That would be money better spent than buying reedy or trinity motors I think. Just buy a couple of cells and rip your stick packs apart and make a side-by-side pack, or go to promatch and have them make you a set. The box says you can hit 30+ with that setup, and the stock motors are cheap.

[Lord Radeon]

JonDax: I totally agree. Stockers are the way to go

[metalry101]

I agree, I haven't run the other motors, but damn, the stockers are powerful as hell, and they require no maintenance other than the occasional blast of motor spray, and even that's optional. It'll definately help them last a little longer, but it's not required, and you can't beat the price.

[metalry101]

So does anyone know some sweet tires to run on a Maxx? I want bigger tires, so I'm thinking the new Hot Bodies ones look good, but I don't know. I'm also considering the Pro-Line 40s. I've seen them, and damn. Also, are the IMEX Jumbo Maxx tires any good? They're ridiculously expensive, but if they're really good maybe they're worth it. They look really heavy though. Also, I don't know if they're any taller than stock, are they? Anyone have any suggestions? Also, what are the best street tires? I love the look of the Road Rages, and I can get them for 20 bux a pair right now. On the other hand, I can get some Dynamite slicks for 15 a pair, but I don't know how well they'd grab on anything that isn't perfect.

[Prinler]

if ya want some big tires i have some Jumbo maxx chevrons on nice chrome rims i would let go if ya interested.... they never been run....



Posted this in the BL forums aswell, I will be most likly parting out my E-maxx and Brushless setups. Also willing to sell the whole Truck as is. RTR

lemme know guys..

[smojoe]

Prinler-
what Bl system do you have?

and how much do you want for it (just the system)?

[540ismiley]

I just bought 2 super rooster and i plan to put 2 motors in my truck that will give it the most torque. i am going to do a tug o war competition with a tmaxx 2.5. What to get him good.
what tips do you all have
josh thanks

[Prinler]

oh boy here we go... get BRUSHLESS.... its the only motors for the e-maxx

[Soya v1.1]

At least, that's what Lord thinks:rolleyes:

[Lord Radeon]

I'm yet to push brushless on anyone really. It's definetly a lot more powerful, but not something I'd recommend to a newbie. It's a hassle and a headache to fine tune.

[MADDMAXX121]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
Don't listen to him. You can't form an opinion on something you've never owned. The Reedy motors are crap, bushings and locked timing. I owned one.

If i get new motors i would take the trinity monster maxx motors in a heart beat

Can the stock esc handle two 17 turn motors?
Traxxas says they cant, but my hobbyshop says theyve run 17's with their stock esc!Help:confused:

[Lord Radeon]

The EVX WILL handle them, though it will get hot. If it thermals, a mini 12volt fan will keep it cool.

[TeamMishap]

Finally got a set of real batteries. It's amazing how much more power a set of GP 3300s (even unmatched) has over those generic E-maxx 2 packs Team Orion and Peak put out. $60 for 12 quality batts is about the same price as the generic sticks. I'm sold. Never buying those crap packs again!

[tadium54]

Prinler

I know what you mean. i made way to many mods to the truck fro my own good. Hardcore chassis, aluminum skids and aluminum bulks, lots of other stuff. if i were to do it again, I would get aluminum bhulk and aluminum skids, and that would be it. maybe titanium turnbuckles and hinge pins too, but i went way obverboard on it. i may get a new one and just start from the ground up, and ill hopefully have better luck, if i do go that route.

[Maxxmtpro]

hey guys i was really disapointed this morning when my emaxx didnt work just got it last night and drove it and now i had charged the batteries and it doesnt do anything when i turn the transmitter on and the esc the 2 speed servo tritches and thats it anyone have a farmiliar problem like this

Thanks
the new guy with the emaxx

[Grant Tokumi]

Congrats on your purchase.

The key to find the problem is to try and isolate the problem. Servos are twitching, so thats good indication that your vehicle has power, at least to the servos. Does the steering work? If it does, then it means a signal is also being transmitted to the receiver, and I'd concentrate on the ESC and motor. If it doesn't even have steering, then I'd suspect that the transmitter is not sending a signal, or the receiver is not receiving one. Dead transmitter batteries?

[Maxxmtpro]

thats the thing tho everything is brand new i purchased all new aa batteries for trans mit so that shouldnt even be in the picture
another thing is only one servo twitches not the steering servo
called traxxas just now got answering machine lol figures

[Grant Tokumi]

But if you accidently forgot to turn your transmitter off and left it on all night, then it may have dead batteries in there. Does the red light come on on the transmitter when you turn it on?

What I mean by "does the steering work?", I mean does the front tires steer when you turn the wheel on the transmitter? Or does it just sit there doing nothing? Does the shift servo move when you flick the shifter on the transmitter?

I'm just brainstorming here. Maybe you didn't really charge the main batteries. Did they get warm after they were charged? Did the crystal pop out of the transmitter or the receiver? Is any plug pulled out of the socket in the receiver?

[Maxxmtpro]

the only thing i did with the truck was take it up and down the road so nothing could have poped out

only thing i took out was the steering servo but its in their now

batterries are fine light came on

packs got warm when charged

i dont know what else to think of this happening

thanks
Dan

[Grant Tokumi]

does the steering work?

[Maxxmtpro]

nothing works

only thing that happens when i turn it on is the 2 speed servo twitches

[Lord Radeon]

Sounds like

1: Broken crystal (TX, or RX. Get another set to try)
2: Bad receiver
3: Bad transmitter
4: Bad BEC circuit in ESC


Try running a receiver pack..?

[Maxxmtpro]

i just felt the pain of this truck comen ful bore at my stomach lol its really pissen me off

found out that the throttle servo had gotten reversed and me being dumb fliped it back sending the truck at me after that it worked great for lil 5 min then it just died

messed with it sum more and what it does now is if i take the throttle thing out of the reciever and put it back in back out back in it causes the truck to go full throttle but if i take it out and put it back in it wont do it lol this is confusing

[TrinityGuy21]

I need help with gearing ...... i run a shorter track with my e-maxx ..... I was wondering what tooth spur gear and pinion I should run .... The track has a 50 foot straight away and all the jumps and goodies a track has ... any thoughts on what i should use for best outcome

[CaseyDDR]

http://www.thercproshop.com/moreinf...Pack%20chassis.

WOW! Anybody ever seen this? I am like || close to ordering it right now.... But first questions, How would I wire the ESC for 4 battery packs, or would I need 2 ESCS, or is this for dual brushless motor systems? You guys see where I'm going with this? 2 hacker motors with 2 escs... both running off 2 packs.. What do you guys think of that? Costly yes, but how fast would that bugger go with all that power? I want serious input on this this looks extremely tempting... Not only would it be fast though, it'd be red :)

[Maxxmtpro]

thanks grant but ive decided to just send it in and have traxxas deal with it

Dan

[Lord Radeon]

Casey: That link doesn't work. And if it's the dynamite chassis, don't buy it. It's extremely heavy, and doesn't work well at all. The pack holds are poorly designed, and are hard to access. If you want a new chassis that can hold more cells, look into the bomb-proof chassis. The dyn is crap :cool:

By the way, you couldn't control a dual C50 truck on a stock length chassis. I have trouble enough with a single basic. You need something with extended wheelbase to really appreciate and utilize the power of duals.

http://bomb-proofproducts.com/home.htm

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Finally got a set of real batteries. It's amazing how much more power a set of GP 3300s (even unmatched) has over those generic E-maxx 2 packs Team Orion and Peak put out. $60 for 12 quality batts is about the same price as the generic sticks. I'm sold. Never buying those crap packs again!

Soya, THIS is why I tell people to just pass over cheap stuff. There's just no comparison :cool:

[CaseyDDR]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Casey: That link doesn't work. And if it's the dynamite chassis, don't buy it. It's extremely heavy, and doesn't work well at all. The pack holds are poorly designed, and are hard to access. If you want a new chassis that can hold more cells, look into the bomb-proof chassis. The dyn is crap :cool:

By the way, you couldn't control a dual C50 truck on a stock length chassis. I have trouble enough with a single basic. You need something with extended wheelbase to really appreciate and utilize the power of duals.

http://bomb-proofproducts.com/home.htm

well I want to do this dual motor thign :) Just looks like a fun thing to do... extended wheelbase do you mean the widemaxx or the monstermaxx widetrac system? And i dont see how the bomb chass even holds the batts in. Help me here :) I want powa!!

[Lord Radeon]

WHEELBASE, not width. It's about 2 inches longer then stock.

[CaseyDDR]

well im going with your suggestion and ordering that lexna chassis, if I dont like it it was only 100$ no big deal.

[hellbent]

so raden how many of those dynamite 4 batt chassis have you owned?
I have 2 and they way just less than a stock chassis and i dont have a problem at all with accessing the batts. but I am sure you are still the expert in this matter.
I am not bashing but I believe once again you are talking badly about parts that you have never owned or used.
you should stick to the parts you have first hand knolege with.
have a wonderfull day.
casey i use 2 of those dynamite 4 batt chassis and i like them alot they are extremly sturdy and easy to use and easy to set up.

[CaseyDDR]

hey man, well either way he was right about one thing.. I need a longer chassis for the project I am doing.. Or else im just going to flip the truck, even if im almost at top speed. But thanks for posting about it. Got pictures of your emaxxes that i can see showign it?

[Lord Radeon]

hellbent: No, personally I have NEVER owned a dynamite chassis. I HAVE however, had personal experience in using one, as the LHS/track is less then 5 minutes from my house. Poor chap there ran the chassis. I got a personal run-through of why he hated it, and personally saw the flaws. And no, it is NOT lighter then a stock chassis. It is FAR heavier. There are much better offerings for less cash out there today.

Casey: There are tons of pics on the bomb-proof website.

[CaseyDDR]

well I talked to the guy who runs it, and I'm ordering there chassis and the skid plate (jus for looks its only 15$ what the hey right?) Right now I have to wait for moeny to transfer into my paypal though. This chassis is 3 oz heavier than the stock, but what do you expect from something that is 2 inches longer :)

[hellbent]

I will show you that the chassis is lighter i will get pics of each sitting on a digital scale. but casey i do agree that you will need the extra length for dual brushelss.
thats gona be a butt load of power hope you can drive.
:D

[CaseyDDR]

i hope i can too... Ive mainly done touring and 12th scale till this emaxx.. but reason i went to offroad is i was getting sick of having to stay ont he road. So I want something electric (not a nitro fan) that can go as fast as my touring car while jumping at the same time. This chassis will also make it alot easier to stablize during mid air :) Should be ordering it at the end of this week or next... I'll post pictures once i get it on and mounted.

[Lord Radeon]

Rebuilt my RX pack into 6 volts, and opened the digi switch to solder some 14 gauge wire to it. It barely fits, but it fits. No more broken RX batt wires =).

[MADDMAXX121]

does anyone know what gearing I need with the 17 turn monster maxx pro motors?:confused: I heard the esc cant handle them. does anyone know how fast i can get goin' with em'?:rolleyes: I am thinkin of getting some if my parents let me:p :D I never knew that the stockers were 23 turns, i allways thought that they were 20 till i saw it on the traxxas web site:eek: I bet i could do at least 40 in second plus my hobbyshop has a t/emaxx class and i cant wait to blow those tmaxxes away!! besides that does any one have any advice on a good high power servo cause when my truck sits still i cant turn the wheels:mad: :( :o sorry for rambling on for 20 minutes but i am sooooo excited to buy them>:) :p :D < (those are my smile progression happy really happy and extremely happy)

[Lord Radeon]

There's NO way you'd hit 40 with monster maxx pros. Even on 14 Cells, 36-38 would be the upper threshold if you had a TON of space to get up to speed and were geared VERY tall.

On your question, gear down 2-3 pinion teeth from stock motors

[CaseyDDR]

only way your going to get 40mph + is if you get a brushless system and lighten that chassis up a great deal. Those mod motors are jus not powerful enough to get it. Its definatly not worth the 100$ to get those motors, and you will burn out ur EVX with them. Save your money and get a brushless system.. they do 40+ with 12 cells.

[Lord Radeon]

My brushless system won't even hit forty geared how it is. It hits around 37 with great torque. If I geared it up two teeth I could probably manage it, but it'd take a great deal of space, and it'd cog a lot. 40 is a very elusive number...

[Soya v1.1]

My Sledgehammer goes past 40 with 12 cells, but that's different.

[Lord Radeon]

Defenitly believable in a sledge or an On-Road Car/Stadium truck. The EMaxx has too many things going against it to easily hit 40. Drivetrain drag and immense weight being two of those

[MADDMAXX121]

Originally posted by CaseyDDR
http://www.thercproshop.com/moreinf...Pack%20chassis.

WOW! Anybody ever seen this? I am like || close to ordering it right now.... But first questions, How would I wire the ESC for 4 battery packs, or would I need 2 ESCS, or is this for dual brushless motor systems? You guys see where I'm going with this? 2 hacker motors with 2 escs... both running off 2 packs.. What do you guys think of that? Costly yes, but how fast would that bugger go with all that power? I want serious input on this this looks extremely tempting... Not only would it be fast though, it'd be red :)
You know that one brushless motor has plenty of power and speed, i heard they can out run a tmaxx when the t is in 2nd gear and the e is in first! no offense but running dual brushless motors is stuped
1 very expensiv
2 more weight on the truck
3 one brushless can out perform two trinity 17t monster maxx motors.
4 2 motors probably wouldn't increase speed but will double the power, (not that the e maxx needs any help with that!)



that reminds me, I layed down on my skateboard and held on to the bumper of my e maxxand pulled my self:p i got movin pretty fast:p :D wow:eek:

[CaseyDDR]

Originally posted by MADDMAXX121
You know that one brushless motor has plenty of power and speed, i heard they can out run a tmaxx when the t is in 2nd gear and the e is in first! no offense but running dual brushless motors is stuped
1 very expensiv
2 more weight on the truck
3 one brushless can out perform two trinity 17t monster maxx motors.
4 2 motors probably wouldn't increase speed but will double the power, (not that the e maxx needs any help with that!)



that reminds me, I layed down on my skateboard and held on to the bumper of my e maxxand pulled my self:p i got movin pretty fast:p :D wow:eek:

you dont see to understand the defination of "project" You also act like a brushless motor + esc x 2 is much more weight. You dont htink i know 1 BL is better than 2 trinity 17t motors? Thats cuz those motors suck ass and burn out to easy. 2 motors would increase speed (talk to many people who have done it) and they have gotten there emaxx's over 50 mph.Thats not what im going for but what i want to do is drag around every single MT I find and jus have something to boast about and hey if i dont lik eit, i can build another emaxx outta the spares ill have and have 2 BL Emaxxes. so as for your reasons, they suck and get over yourself. ITS A PROJECT. Not please a person who just joined the boards to flame me.

[Lord Radeon]

Titans = :)

Brushless = :) :D

2x Brushless = :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :cool: :eek:

[CaseyDDR]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Titans = :)

Brushless = :) :D

2x Brushless = :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :cool: :eek:

thank you lord! not only does it give you emense power, but bragging rights also...

"haha i drug taht savage like a dead fish"

god i hate those savages....