E-Maxx Forum v1.0

[TeamMishap]

Who makes the best aftermarket screw kit for the E-maxx? I'm tire of phillips heads.

Anyone using anything other than the stock shoulder screws for bolting the tops of the shocks to the shock tower?

[Lord Radeon]

www.fullforcerc.com

Black oxide screws are top-grade, and the kit is VERY cheap. I highly recommend.

For shock towers, I'm using a 2.5mm hex cap screw. Impossible to strip, and i use a BIG washer to keep the shock on the standoff. Works great

[hellbent]

I use racers edge screw kit which is stainless and all hex head i havnt broke any and i havnt stripped any and i sell the kits for $26.00 plus shipping at my store

[slid'in sideway]

Hay,
I finely got it done, because of time constrains( been working to darn much), I had not gotten around to making the new cover plate for my lighter weight trans, which is now a little lighter yet, yeah, I know a 1/4 oz. isn't much, but on E's every little helps, so at this point I've taken a grand total of 2 1/2 oz. of static weight off of the trans.
Pic's I have are of the trans installed in my truck. let me know what you think.

[slid'in sideway]

One more picture of it, a little differant angle.

[Lord Radeon]

SLid'n... VERY nice work. I'm assuming it's got the second gear gears in there, not the first gear gears? Anyway, if you ever decide to make another, or produce these, count me in :)

[CaseyDDR]

i second that!

man yesterday i had my first wreck, built a ramp at the top of a steep hill that drops about 20 feet, hit the bottom and cleared the hill but lost control at full speed and SMACK into a tree.. shattered the rear axle, lower front arm is snapped, broke bottom cap of shock, and bent my turnbuckle to a 120º angle.. i think i also screwed up my servo, but that might be acting wierd cuz i have my emaxx ghetto rigged at the moment running 2wd and have a front axle replacing the back because my 1 and only LHS was out of them :(

[Lord Radeon]

:) You got off easy. My worst wreck totally destroyed five shocks, three bulkheads, a shock tower, three hingepins, a turnbuckle end, a servo, a body, and it send one of my battery packs flying about 30 feet from where the truck landed :D (and that was BEFORE I had brushless, lol)

[hellbent]

Raden I believe i can beat that wreck:
but it was a t-maxx and we lost signal at full speed, hit a concrete retainer wall head on and all we salvaged was the radio , reciever 4 tires 3 wheels and one diff the rest was destroyed and it was all new rpm plastic but it was a heck of a sight to see.:D
best wreck was into the lake with a nitro mt and it dried for a few minutes in the sun and i still run it once in a while no problems ever.

[slid'in sideway]

Thanks Lord Radeon,
Yes, its set up with second gear. Because of work I just haven't got the time to work on all the projects I'd like( I'm still designing that spooled center diff set up ). If I get to get off work early enough this friday I hope to get to the track for some all out testing. I've got ten sets of batteries, so i'll run them through and then tear a part the trans and see how it's holding up. It'll be a good test also to see how long my modifed mayhems last.
One other thing I'm not to sure what really would be considered a light E, but the best I've gotten mine down to so far is 7.5# without the 14 cells in it, I'm still tring to find ways to get it lighter and have a coulpe of other ideas.
I'll let you know how the testing works out.

Slid'in Sideway

[CaseyDDR]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
:) You got off easy. My worst wreck totally destroyed five shocks, three bulkheads, a shock tower, three hingepins, a turnbuckle end, a servo, a body, and it send one of my battery packs flying about 30 feet from where the truck landed :D (and that was BEFORE I had brushless, lol)

Hey just found out my shock is also bent... but I'm ordering the new integy piggy back resevouar shocks so It's not a big deal.. Do you still recommend taht lexan chassis for stock motors Lord, if so ill go ahead and get it still.

[Lord Radeon]

I recommend

LExan bomb proof chassis for those who want to run more then 14 cells, or are looking at medium-high power brushless setups.

Xtreme carbon fiber chassis for those who want to run 14 or less cells, and run either brushed, or mild brushless setups.



Slid'n, awesome work. My E weighs at around 7.8# without batts. This is with CVDs and 1/8 diffs. Keep us updated =)

[smojoe]

any thoughts/ opinions on the new gorillamaxx chassis for a regular basher hopeing to upgrade to brushless?

... and to think on my worst crash I only broke a bulkhead... :rolleyes:

[dont slow down]

so far the only thing ive broken is two suspention arms, both made by RPM so they replaced them for free. ive also bent up the bumpers, skid plates, and bulkhead. what is the bulkhead btw? is it the thing that the bumper screws into?

[Lord Radeon]

The bulkhead is the piece that the diff sits in, the bumpers, skids, and shock towers all screw into.


SmoJoe, the Gorilla Maxx chassis is an awesome piece of work definetly, but I can't really give any thoughts other than that. It looks promising.

[CaseyDDR]

what website can i find that carbon fiber chassis?

[TeamMishap]

Gonna try out my music wire/DuraCollar quick release shock mounts as soon as I rebuild my shocks. Should be much less a PITA than the regular shoulder screws that hold them in. If it doesn't work, I've got some hex socket screws to put in. It's the proverbial win-win.

I swore I'd never tool with my shocks, especially with there being eight, but I figured a couple bucks for shock oil and slime beat $65 for a new set of eight Dynamite/Losis.

[TeamMishap]

Never again! Seems like getting just the right amount of oil in the stock shocks is impossible. A c-hair too much poor up travel. A c-hair too little rebound. Be nice if Traxxas would say it requires Xcc of shock juice, measure it up in a syringe, squirt it in and cap it. I don't think I have enough rebound...time for stiffer springs.

[metalry101]

I totally know that feeling. 3 shocks will be perfect, and something will be slightly off on the fourth, so one end of the truck makes little squishy noises when it's compressed, and they're not quite equal. Oh well. Anyways, I want some tires for my Maxx. Anyone in here got some good tires (other than stock) that they're willing to part w/? Preferably either aggressive off-road (Masher like), or street tires. I don't race so I don't need others, but if they're cheap enough I'd be open to anything. E-mail me if you've got anything. metalry101@hotmail.com

[Lord Radeon]

Lol... thats the best part abotu the dyn/losis. No caps, just fill from bottom all the way, push shaft in, and screw tight. Each shock comes out perfectly even with the others =)


Link to carbon chassis (out of stock)
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=XTR1003

[Lord Radeon]

MEtalry: For all-around performance and wear (especially if you run on street, or concrete),maxx mashers are hard to beat. Panther plowboy's are also an excellent all-around tire

[TrinityGuy21]

Guys ... I have heard lots about the Monster Maxx Wild and the Reedy Bad Maxx motors .... which one is the best ... If there are any other motors tell me..... Which motor is the best for my e-maxx???:confused:

[metalry101]

From what I've heard neither is that great. I've heard they're horrible, but I find that hard to believe because they're two of the best motor makers on the market. However, I would strongly reccomend running the stock Titans w/ 7 cells. They involve no maintenence at all, and they're more than powerful enough. If you're really wanting insane power and speed, go brushless, otherwise, run 7 cells, and if you can afford it, 7 matched cells, as their performance will be even better. Hope this helps

[Soya v1.1]

Does anybody wanna give me some money to get my E-maxx running again? :(

[CaseyDDR]

can somebody please tell me where to get the carbon fiber chassis for emaxx, no1 responded earlier and i cant find it!!

[smojoe]

Originally posted by CaseyDDR
can somebody please tell me where to get the carbon fiber chassis for emaxx, no1 responded earlier and i cant find it!!

Lord Radeon gave you a link seven posts up (or six up on page 61)

sorry Soya, but im still trying to get the money to get my maxx running again

[Soya v1.1]

*sigh* guess I'll have to wait till summer. I might buy a TXT-1, also.

[Lord Radeon]

Titans are your best bet for the stock maxx. There IS another motor I found that worked better then the titans, but the only improvement was runtime by about 15 percent. Speed and torque remained the same. The motors retailed at $35 each, so I don't think it was worth it in retrospect. Anyway, stick with titans, and go with 14 cells. After that, it's brushless.

Oh, and the MX-3 came today :cool:. Just waiting on my controller (still) to come back from Germany

[guver]

I'm new at the e-maxx thing, what are the major differences between the widemaxxemaxx and the original e-maxx? Like the suspension arms are the only thing that I know of. Any other major parts?

I'm thinking or getting a 1 year old emaxx and just getting the proline kit would that be about the same as a new truck as far as specs go?

[Lord Radeon]

Wider arms, updated&stronger/lighter diffs, MUCH beefier driveshafts

[CaseyDDR]

so lord, did you see the gorillamaxx chassis is finally out?! its super nice! not a bad price on it either.

[Lord Radeon]

To my knowledge its been out for about 2 months. Looks beefy, but heavy. Can't say much else atm.

[metalry101]

Finally got my EVX back last weekend. I forgot how much fun that thing is to blast around my circle. Of course now it won't run again cuz I'm trading away my radio and some cash for an XR3. YIPEE! Hopefully that deal works out, and I ordered some of the TRC Park tires and the TRC rims yesterday through my lhs, so they'll be here in a couple weeks. They're only 16.50 on tower right now so I figured what the hell? I need street tires anyways, cuz that's the place I run my Maxx the most because I never get time to go find dirt. After AP tests are over I'll have a lot more time! Hopefully by then I'll also have some wicked off-road tires too.

[MrHorspwer]

I posted this in the Monster Truck forum... but it probibly be longs here. I blew 2 shock caps off my E-Maxx. I bought 2 aluminium replacements (Traxxas #2667). They still leak. I am figuring the seals are wasted too. So... do I buy the shock rebuild kit and just replace the caps as I blow them off? (I was being a bit mean to the truck... just put Trinity heavy springs on (at the recommendation of Lord Radeon) and I wanted to see how it would jump:D I'm usually not that brutal to the truck) Or do I suck it up and buy myself a real set of shocks?

If I'm getting new shocks... which ones? Keep it under $100... Big Bores or the Associated's are tops on my list. Are they decent choices? Any others I should consider?

[MrHorspwer]

Ok... I went to my LHS and got a shock rebuild kit with new diaphram seals. Guess what? They still leak. As far as I am concerned right now, the Traxxas shock design is junk. I will not buy Big Bores. First time I blow off a shock cap, which is a common problem I hear, the shocks are junk because they won't seal anymore? I'm slightly frustrated right now... more because I can't run the truck tomorrow as I planned than about the shocks.

So... how good are Associated shocks?

[Lord Radeon]

ASsociated shocks are worse then the traxxas ones IMO. Same design, but smaller. Buy yourself some Losi by dynamite shocks. No caps, so no leaks :)

[TeamMishap]

I've heard a lot of good things about the Dynamite/Losi's. Don't have them myself, but will once the stockers S themselves.

DYN7636 in Red, blue, purple, or silver aluminum
$69 at leisure-time.com
$65 at littleshopofhobbies.com
$75 at stormerhobbies.com
$90 at horizonhobby.com

[FastTec]

I've have my E-Maxx for about 2 months, I love it. The only problem was in the beginning it seemed like the slipper clutch was too loose. I've had 1 rear body mount break and 1 upper suspension arm break. It has front/rear RPM Bumpers and a full skid plate set. With Velocity Series 40 wheels and Big Joe tires.
Pics coming soon.

[TC3 Benjammin]

Lord Radeon,

I just got another E-Maxx I'm going to set up for racing and I have a few questions for you.

1. Proline Mulchers look like a good choice for tires. What do you think of these and what rims would you suggest? It's an older "non-wide" maxx, so I want some rims with extra offset.

2. What body would you recommend? Looking into Proline's F-350.

3. What would you suggest I do to lock it into 2nd gear, so I can remove the servo/linkage?

4. I'm thinking of removing both bumpers. I saw that you did also, so what problems if any have you had?

5. What other (fairly simple) mods can I do to lighten up the truck?

I will be running the Titans and SMC batts, so I got the electronics part covered. Thanks in advance bro.

Ben

[Lord Radeon]

1- Buy the pro-line kit. I know you don't want to hear it, but its night and day handling compared to an old maxx with offset rims. $56.95 at stormerhobbies. Mulchers are THE racing tire imo. TRC's "Paqman" is also becoming popular. Either way, so long as your not stripping rims, pro-line velocity dish wheels are the way to go. They come in normal and offset. Personally I run the mulchers with Racer's edge 2-stage foam (foam DOES matter) on TRX sportmaxx rims for durability reasons. They're the strongest plastic wheels out there.

2 - Depends on what your looking for. The Pro-Line Maxx Crowd-Pleazer is the thickest body out there with good aero, but its HEAVY. The trinity reference body is the lightest, but its very THIN. If you get the F-350, get the normal cab, not extended. It's mostly user preference. I race with the trinity body because of weight, and bash with a hummer body (Stronger, but heavier)

3 - Just stick the shift lever in all the way, and shoe-goo it there. It will hold fine (mine's held for 12+ months). If you have time on your hands, removing The first speed primary gear, idler gear, and output gear will save a lot of weight and rotating mass.

4 - Bumpers really depend on driving style. If your confident in your driving, take em off. Just remember that the rear bumper acts as a wheelie bar. May want to leave it there for that purpose. If you take off the front bumper, replace the front skid with the RPM unit. It will make your front end MUCH more rigid. I've had no problems with breakage related to the bumpers being gone.

5 - Dremel work can be done on the stock chassis. You can save 15-20% of it's weight with an hour or two on the dremel. Other great weight savers are: Ti Hinge pins and turnbuckles (1 oz) and Ti pillow balls (.5 oz)
Going to four shocks will also save some weight.
Supermaxx Ti center drives weigh no more then the stock plastic, and are a hell of a lot more durable. A worthy upgrade if you've got the cash.

[TC3 Benjammin]

1. I thought that might be your answer, LOL. I was considering purchasing that kit anyway. So I won't need offset wheels with the proline kit?

2. Thanks.

3. I thought some type of epoxy/shoe-goo is what you used, but I wasn't sure. that's what I'll do.

4. Point taken. Thanks.

5. Good ideas, thank you.

'precciate it man! I'll let you know how it goes tonight. :rolleyes: :p

Ben

[Lord Radeon]

1 - Yes, don't use offset wheels with the proline kit

[metalry101]

I have the Pro-Line kit, and it's great. I don't race, but it's more fun to bash w/ the thing too cuz I don't have to go flip it back onto the wheels nearly as often, and also, it comes w/ Ti turnbuckles so you'll never have to upgrade those. I would also reccomend Ti hingepins, and if you don't have a good steering servo, get one. Personally, I run a Hitec 5646. It's a digital high torque model that's only about 55 bones, and it's worth every penny. You'll be driving a whole new Maxx after you get that. And Fastec, if your slipper loosens up, tighten back it down, or maybe buy the RR slipper. I don't run it, and I've heard good and bad things about it.

[TC3 Benjammin]

Yes, the truck I bought has a brand new hitec metal gear servo.

While I'm at it, let me tell you guys the deal I got on this thing. I'm pretty stoked about it.

Emaxx (I think the guy ran it like twice, theres not a scratch or one speck of dirt on it) w/ radio, etc.
Duratrax twin peak charger (brand new)
2 2000s and 2 2400 SMCs
Hitec metal gear servo

I got all this for 200 bucks. Friggin steal, huh?
:D

[Lord Radeon]

Wow, thats an awesome deal. The electronics (servo, batts, charger) would go for $80-100 alone. Can't beat that with a stick

[metalry101]

Damn, that is a steal. Way to go. I might have you beat though. I just picked up a Tamiya TB Evo II w/ a Reedy Ti 10x2, and a body for 150. Not bad eh? Seeing as it's usually 370 on tower, and the motor is 55? The car had been run maybe 5 times. And ahhh, is it gorgeous.

[Soya v1.1]

I think my friend has you both beat. On Ebay, he got roughly 300 Associated parts, 2 sets of all the original white RC10 parts, 2 stealth trannies, and a Dual Sport for $65:D

[Lord Radeon]

Used stuff rocks =)

[TC3 Benjammin]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
Used stuff rocks =)

Yes it does. Especially electronics. As long as it is somewhat cared for, electronics (except motors, due to comms/brushes) usually stay in premium condition, no matter what the asthetics are.

I pretty much buy all my electronic stuff used. Used chassis parts on the other hand, are "hit or miss" unfortunately. Theres a lot of people out there with abused gear trying to pass it off as brand spanking new. Gotta be careful. :)

Sorry for the off-topic rant.:p

[TC3 Benjammin]

OK, I'm like seriously considering this Proline suspension kit, and stuff. :)

Right before I clicked the order button, I had a light bulb go off. What if one of these parts break? Can you buy replacement arms? I've never seen them sold ANYWHERE.

How bad would it suck to break an arm and have to buy a whole new kit?:(

Anyone know?:confused:

[dont slow down]

just re-subscribing to this thread. ill post some pics of my emaxx later tonight, i was bored the other day and i did some stuff to my truck. i made a custom "billet" grill, made some stickers, and put on a hpi savage bumper on my truck, it looks pretty sick. ill put up pics tonight.

[metalry101]

You don't have to buy the whole kit again to replace stuff. You can buy a new upper and lower arm set for 10.19 on tower. Same w/ a shock tower. However, if you plan on beating the **** out of your truck, buying 2 of the kits might be the way to go, because then you'll have 4 complete sets of arms, 2 extra shock towers, 4 extra Ti turnbuckles, and all of the hardware. Besides, it's on sale right now. By the way, since all of you think buying used is so great (and I agree) do any of you have any quality ESCs I could run in my new touring car? PM if ya do

[TC3 Benjammin]

Originally posted by metalry101
You don't have to buy the whole kit again to replace stuff. You can buy a new upper and lower arm set for 10.19 on tower. Same w/ a shock tower. However, if you plan on beating the **** out of your truck, buying 2 of the kits might be the way to go, because then you'll have 4 complete sets of arms, 2 extra shock towers, 4 extra Ti turnbuckles, and all of the hardware. Besides, it's on sale right now. By the way, since all of you think buying used is so great (and I agree) do any of you have any quality ESCs I could run in my new touring car? PM if ya do

Ahhh, I see that now! Just had to scroll down the page a lil further.:o OK I'm gonna buy it. Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

No ESCs buddy, but I'll keep an eye out for ya. What're you looking for?

[CaseyDDR]

Since we are talking about steals I got a lightly used Emaxx with quite a bit of hardcore racing hop ups RTR and 2 matched 7cell 2400 batteries for 150$.

[TeamMishap]

My music-wire quick-release top-shock mounting mechanism works great. No more tooling around with those danged phillips head screws.

If anyone is interested, I'll post pics and instructions. Cost < $5 for 4 of them. Could probably do bottoms too, but I don't know if a solid piece of wire across the bottom a-arm would hamper suspension travel.

[elctroTEEN]

Hey all!
I just got a used emaxx with wide maxx suspension and two 2400's for $250. the best thing is it was a hobby shops truck so it had never been bashed. it didnt have a scratch or anything on it. although it does now. heres a pic of mine stretching on top of a pepsi can

[slid'in sideway]

Lord Radeon,
Just haven't had time to get back to the computer, but I did get to get to the track last Friday, but they closed the track down early for a big race the next day. I did get a chance to run eight sets of batteries through my truck. It ran great all night. My gearing that I started with was 18- 64. I could hold my fingers on the EVX and on the motors with no problems, but they were slightly warmer then I'd like them to be, running cooler the better in my mind is best. I geared down to 16-64 and then I felt better about the way the heat was disipating.
Last night I finely got to take things apart, the motors I checked first. My modified mayhems seam to be holding up just fine. Installing the bearings and the P-94 brush hood kit and brushes are working great. Compared to a new set of brushes it appears that wear is less then less then 1/16" from a set of new brushes and this is after the eight full runs, the other thing you have to remember that I running slightly lighter springs then what came with the motors, less torque, more RPM. Comm's look good, also there's no discoloration of the brushes.
On to the trans, removing it from the truck, I checked to see if there was any differance in the freedom of the the trans. Since it spun very well as before it had installed it. The next step was to check the inside to see if everything looked as well as it did when I put it together. All the gears look just the same as when I put it together, no visible, noticeable wear, the only difference on any part was the modified output shaft, the new cover plate that I made, I had installed a flanged type bearing in this new cover and believe it backed out a little and was riding down a little lower on that part of the shaft. Even though it will add back that other 1/4oz of weight that I got off the truck, I'm going to put the first plate that I made and reshim the trans with that plate to insure reliability. So far this setup seams to be working ok.
If anyone has any questions I'll try to answer them as best I can.

[Soya v1.1]

Resubscribing.

[elctroTEEN]

This has probably been brought up before, but I am new to the E-Maxx world so... ... Is it possible for 4 wheel steering? The reason I bring this up is because the axle carriers are the same in the rear as in the front. so they both turn. Is there a kit or a hop-up that you can set your maxx up to do this?

[Lord Radeon]

I think new-era makes a kit... but 4 wheel steering is worthless. why bother?

[CaseyDDR]

Originally posted by Lord Radeon
I think new-era makes a kit... but 4 wheel steering is worthless. why bother?
i dont know if you have the spare money it'd be kinda cool with all the other hop ups available.. strictly a show thing though, You'd think it'd jus cause you to flip more.

[Lord Radeon]

Well it throws balance off, makes it darn near impossible to track in a straight line, and makes the truck impossibly squirrely at high speeds. Only application for it I can think of would be in a crawler. But why not just buy a crawling truck?

[Soya v1.1]

How positive. Any personal experiences?

[CaseyDDR]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
How positive. Any personal experiences?

it doesnt really matter, all you have to do is read reviews, everything he said is correct. I don't have personal experiences but i knew that stuff, quit jumping his case jus because he happesn to know more about a truck than you.

[elctroTEEN]

I didnt mean to cause any conflicts here! Like I said I am new here and noticed something cool and mentioned it and the next thing I know there is an arguement. Like Casey said you need to lay off. I knew all of that stuff too but was just wondering if it was possible for our trucks. I always thought that these bulliten boards were for us with the same interest in mind to come together and talk not argue or criticize(sp) others. Thats just the way I feel. He put his opinion in and you did yours but you should have did your opinion in a more less saracastic way.

[CaseyDDR]

Originally posted by elctroTEEN
I didnt mean to cause any conflicts here! Like I said I am new here and noticed something cool and mentioned it and the next thing I know there is an arguement. Like Casey said you need to lay off. I knew all of that stuff too but was just wondering if it was possible for our trucks. I always thought that these bulliten boards were for us with the same interest in mind to come together and talk not argue or criticize(sp) others. Thats just the way I feel. He put his opinion in and you did yours but you should have did your opinion in a more less saracastic way.

personally i'd think it'd be cool for it, jus tnot practical, your new here like you said, soya or whatever has constantly questioned what lord knows, always using that old excuse "have you owned it" which means jack :) its not you, its him.

[TC3 Benjammin]

Originally posted by CaseyDDR
personally i'd think it'd be cool for it, jus tnot practical, your new here like you said, soya or whatever has constantly questioned what lord knows, always using that old excuse "have you owned it" which means jack :) its not you, its him.

He can't help it. He's a complete toolbox.

Right Soya?

[metalry101]

I think 4-wheel steering would be a cool mod, but not worth the money. If I got a TXT-1, I would definately run 4-wheel steer, but not in a Maxx. Totally agree w/ Lord there. If you're building a truck for looks go for it, if you're building it for performance, stick w/ the front only steering. Or maybe if you turned the diffs around, and moved some things, etc, you could make it rear wheel steer. That would probably be impossible to control too, but you gotta admit it would look cool. I don't even know if that would work, but I think it would. Just a stupid thought, nothing practical.

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by CaseyDDR
quit jumping his case just because he happens to know more about a truck than you.

I'll quit jumping his case, I was kinda joking, but who are you to say he knows more than me:rolleyes:

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by TC3 Benjammin
He can't help it. He's a complete toolbox.

Right Soya?

I'm a complete toolbox? I'm not sure how to respond to that.

[CaseyDDR]

All I ever read from you is "oh ya lord, have you tried it yet"

[Soya v1.1]

You've heard me say that once. You haven't been on this forum for long, don't judge before you know anything.

[CaseyDDR]

its called reading backthreads smart guy, you do know they store them correct? :rolleyes:

[Soya v1.1]

You do know that you're persuing a meaningless goal:rolleyes:

[metalry101]

Ok, if you guys wanna fight, do it somewhere else, this is the E-Maxx forum. Humsaynow.

[Soya v1.1]

Touche.

[elctroTEEN]

Where can i get spools for the emaxx.

[trickedoutGT]

Hey guys how fast would a bone stock emaxx go with 3000mah batts?

[Soya v1.1]

You can get them from Tower, Traxxas makes them. They're pretty cheap, too, of course they're just a chunk of metal. I suggest you get them only after you get some aftermarket drive shafts. I locked my diff, and my axles twisted apart with the stock motors.

[metalry101]

Any place that sells Maxx parts should have spools. Any of your local hobby shops should have them. Also, it doesn't really matter what batteries you run in your Maxx. They all go about the same speed. Matched cells will be faster, and decent nonmatched cells will probably be pretty good. However, don't by Sharks, whatever you do, they're horrible. So, a stock Maxx goes about 25. Mine probably does more like 32 or so because I run 7 cells and I've geared it up. Hope this helps

[powertrip]

Aww man... i busted another spur gear on my emaxx.. but this time it took the slipper clutch with it. Basically.. I'm now going to replace this with the robinson racing double disc slipper clutch. Does this also come with that center bushing (it's highlighted in the picture)?? the center of the spur gear fused w/ this bushing, as well as the slipper clutch disc. What do you guys think caused this?? The thing was too tight?? I tightened it all the way then I loosened it half a turn.. I'm runnning 14 3000mah cells.<br><br>

BTW, this is a 64 tooth spur gear made by Kimbrough.
What gearing should I run with the 7 cells??

sorry bout the crappy image.. i was in a hurry and it's dark already..

http://www.importscene.com/maxxspur.jpg

[Soya v1.1]

When I bought my RRP slipper off Ebay, it came with a bearing for the spur gear. I had to file the shaft down slightly, but it works good.

[powertrip]

Cool...
I actually was able to save everything but the gear... I got my dremel and started sanding down all the plastic parts of the spur gear off of them. I still want to get a better slipper and the MIP CVD's.

It's funny that my buddy has an emaxx and he hasn't had a problem.. you think this is cause I run 7 cells and put out too much torque?

No it's not.. I just read what caused this off of a maxxtraxx article:

But the alternative, slipping like crazy, is worse. Lackluster acceleration and inconsistent performance, not to mention the excess heat from the constant slipping has been known to melt the center out of the plastic spur gears.

[emaxxgo]

Try lock tight on the slipper bolt

[powertrip]

is it normal that when I slow down.. (letting go of the gas), it doesn't coast, but rather engages the brake?? Well, I don't know if it does but the front end hunkers down as if I did.. I mean really hunkers down.

[dont slow down]

sounds like your throttle trim is set a bit toward the reverse side. look at your throttle trim dial and see if that got tweaked.

[metalry101]

My Maxx does that too, but not a ton. Maybe your drivetrain is binding a lot? The nose will dive when you let off the throttle because it's squatting under acceleration, and it just stays that way once it tops out unless you're running really high spring rates. Also, the motors are huge and they have fans, so they do have a LOT of friction, and this is apparent when not under power. However, you describe your truck as almost nose diving when you let off. First, make sure your drivetrain isn't binding, then, clean up your motors, and then, tighten up your suspension some. Other vehicles do the same thing, but it's not as apparent because they don't have as supple of a suspension, so the movement isn't as extreme, and therefore, isn't as visible. Hope this helps some.

[powertrip]

Thanks guys.. i don't think it's the trim.. i did play with it and also i reprogramed my evx a few times to set the limits. My trim and subtrim are set to zero for the controller (it's a JR XS3).

I guess my drivetrain is binding.. LoL.. it's funny cause i don't know what that means.. =) care to clue me in??

I will take a look at my gears and see what's up cause it does sound a bit odd.. kinda whining.. i tighted the slipper clutch all the way down now.

I'm hoping to find something out soon.. I think it's gonna rain in the next couple of days, so perfect time to take it apart. =) Last time I tried, i got lazy and started putting it back together before really getting at it.

[metalry101]

Binding as in there is a lot of friction. Your bearings could be worn or seized (not likely, but possible), things could be dirty (very likely), gear mesh could be messed, etc.

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
How positive. Any personal experiences?

Physics 401 =)

[Lord Radeon]

Powertrip: OUCH. This is how I setup my slipper.

10 1/8" diff balls is a general start. I run 12 for less slip, 8 for more slip. (Insted of the red rulon pegs). Lock it down tight on those. They won't wear out like the red pegs will. Change every 3 months if needed.

Throttle trim - Trim as far forward as you can until the truck moves. Then set it backwards until it stops. This way you have no play in the throttle, and you'll never have auto-brake on from trim. Your truck should coast before it stops, and should still have 90% full braking power.

The RRH slipper comes with a bearing instead of the bushing. You can also use the bearing with the stock slipper gear instead of the RRH gear. (In place of said bushing)

Wheel Bearings - These are worthless, I have to replace one about every week. They're just really small for the EMaxx application. Always good to check these and replace as needed. (Take them out and spin the outer race. If it feels notchy or gritty, replace.) IF you ever hear a slight squeak/whine in your wheels when you push your truck by hand, you have a frozen bearing. Replace it =)

Gear mesh i set by hand. You want the tightest part of the gear/pinion meshed as close as possible without any resistance between the two. Be sure to rotate the entire spur gear before you tighten motor screws. The plastic gears aren't perfectly round, and the gear shaft floats a bit, this is why.

On titans and 7 cells, I found stock gearing to be the best. (18/66) Anything above didnt give me any extra speed, just more heat, and less runtime and torque. The motors can't pull a higher gearing then stock on 7 cells. On six cells, 20/66 worked great.

[powertrip]

Thanks Radeon.. Would that be a 9800 Pro?? hehe =)

You've addressed almost all my concerns with my emaxx.. Now I have more to look at (basically things that I overlooked). I actually tore down the whole truck last night.. never knew what kinda beating it took.. the front bumper screws (the ones that hold the brace onto the chassis) are all wreaked.

I'm gonna get that robinson racing clutch, verify my gear mesh for the pinion/spur. then check the bearings on the wheels.. (it's even hard just to push the car even if it's in neutral), last but not least, set my transmitter throttle deadspot to be a little wider and do the trim. Sounds right??

[Lord Radeon]

Deadspot isn't necessary, as your throttle will be in a forward position. The motors just won't get enough power to move anywhere. This give the "coasting" effect when the truck is moving.

Get used to the screws. Though if you use stock ones, i suggest you replace them with a black oxide kit from www.fullforcerc.com The screws in that kit are roughly 3.5 times stronger then the stock pot metal, and are extremely hard. They will hold up much better in the heavy EMaxx. Other then that, it all sounds good. Good luck =)

[Lord Radeon]

PS - 9500 pro. Ordered it last week to replace my aging 7500. Dont have the benjamins to throw down for the 9800 =)

[powertrip]

U know it still sounds funny, only when the motor is connected (spur and pinion connected).. it's nice and smooth without the motor... It doesn't do the nose dive thing anymore.. the pinion and spur mesh was on too tight.. all the bearings are fine. =D thanks for all the help.. I got me a 9700Pro.. =)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Lord Radeon
[B]Deadspot isn't necessary, as your throttle will be in a forward position. The motors just won't get enough power to move anywhere. This give the "coasting" effect when the truck is moving.

[TeamMishap]

Had my first E-maxx breakage today. Snapped my rear drive output shaft. Slung my MIP CVD about 20 feet from the crash. Glad my wife has good eyes and glad I saved the stock shaft after putting in the lightweight Traxxas one. Gonna be a PITA to change.

Got my Basic 4200 yesterday. Now all I need is Rum Runner to get me my controller. It'll be weeks they said. I love it when I'm paying interest on my credit card and don't have the product.

Later!

[Lord Radeon]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Had my first E-maxx breakage today. Snapped my rear drive output shaft. Slung my MIP CVD about 20 feet from the crash. Glad my wife has good eyes and glad I saved the stock shaft after putting in the lightweight Traxxas one. Gonna be a PITA to change.

Got my Basic 4200 yesterday. Now all I need is Rum Runner to get me my controller. It'll be weeks they said. I love it when I'm paying interest on my credit card and don't have the product.

Later!

This is why I tell people not to buy the POS upgrade shafts. They can't handle torque =)

[TeamMishap]

Well, with my BL setup hopefully arriving before 2004, I'll definitely not "upgrade" the shaft again.

[metalry101]

What "upgrade" shaft do you speak of? I'm lost here

[Soya v1.1]

Does anybody make black anodized parts for the maxx? I'm thinking of fixing me E-maxx instead of buying a TXT-1.

[TeamMishap]

Traxxas makes a lightweight upgrade output shaft. It is very much lighter than the original part, but I sheared off an eyelet with a stock setup. BL would probably kill it on the first run.

[Lord Radeon]

Ordered another set of gp3300s from pro-match, full aluminum bulks and Ti pins, and alum. wheel hexes. Now my truck is officially bulletproof, as the bulks were all I was breaking. Joy. Birthdays rule :cool:

[metalry101]

Soya~ Rockhoundz makes black anodized stuff for Maxxes. I know they at least have skids, and maybe other things (bumper, braces, etc) that are anodized in black. I think their address is www.kbrockhoundz.com, but I'm not sure. If it's not, hit up Maxxtraxx.com and use the link off of their site.

Lord Radeon~ I am soooo jealous. Maybe my Maxx will be BL one of these days. The sooner I sell my stuff, the sooner it's BL!!

Mishap~ Thanx for the info on that shaft, I'll pass on getting it, unless you just got a crappy one. Anyone else have this problem, or did he just buy a defective shaft? (That could sound really bad)