HPI RS4 MT

[EMT^Racer]

wrenchguy, go here:

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=156&car_id=9
havent tried it myself but itll fit

the powerline one for the nmt wont work cos the nmt has a different design.

oh and have u tried tightening the bellcrank?

[twisted]

man its been 2 weeks and still no chassis. i orderd a grafite chassis on the 5th and have not seen it yet! :mad:

[RS4rally1124]

hey guys.

these trucks look sweet. i was wondering if i should get an emt. i have a rally. is it really that much better. i have serios stuff on my rally and it handles all terrain fine. on another note. if i buy one for my little bro r they really durable.


Thanx
JT

[twisted]

the trucks are nice and strong.the only thing i have broken is the chassis. i know that sounds bad but it was a freak thing.the day it happened on was like 18 degrees out and the truck slid sideways into a collums support and it cracked the side of the chassis.

[AJC9]

Front A-Arms - went through two sets before I found the "boil them for 10 minutes" trick. That and better driving skills have solved that problem. Now my truck takes everything I throw it into.

[twisted]

ya boil the arms thats a good point! :D

[twisted]

hey where is the mt family? :confused:

[B!!!]

Here's something for you guys. I finally got to try out the skis and paddles I put on the EMT! I had to drive north just to find snow, which is very unusual for Minnesota at this time of year. Anyway, I got some video of it.

Snow EMT (http://www.users.qwest.net/~bkwelsh/SnowEmt.wmv)

As you can see, it does work, but it also gets stuck in the powdery stuff. It turns much better than I had anticipated!

(Windows Media Video format. 3.2mb.)

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by twisted
hey where is the mt family? :confused:


busy with finals :mad:

Nice video B!!!

[twisted]

nice vidoe B!
trickspeed was your truck on ebay?

[TrickSpeed]

hell no my truck wasn't on ebay! Did you see it there? link?

[AJC9]

Originally posted by twisted
hey where is the mt family? :confused:

Preventing frost bite - going to hockey games - wondering when all the snow will melt so I can run my truck outside - considering buying a MicroRS4 so I can have something to play with - working 48 hours a week - you know, the usual.

Nice vid B!!! runs off to find skis for his MT to try what B!!! did

[kart38]

wondering when all the snow will melt so I can run my truck outside

What?! That's half the fun of owning an off-road truck. My T-Maxx sees more use in the winter than in the summer :) *shrug* Maybe I'm weird ;)

BTW: I'm getting an EMT soon, hence my showing up in here.

Jason

[AJC9]

Wierd ??

Nah - you prolly just have less than 3 1/2 feet of snow on the ground.

[jeepboy109]

hi i want to buy an rs4 with the baja buggeee top and sweet offroading tires (im getting it soon)but i want i good motor the can handle the punishment of heavy offroading and mudin and water. what should i buy?
ps. i want it to be evvicent and last long (getting good bater)

What should i do?

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by jeepboy109
hi i want to buy an rs4 with the baja buggeee top and sweet offroading tires (im getting it soon)but i want i good motor the can handle the punishment of heavy offroading and mudin and water. what should i buy?
ps. i want it to be evvicent and last long (getting good bater)

What should i do?

Trinity P2k or Team Orion Core Stock. Both are stock motors, will last loneger than hotter winds, and should have the "Oomph" to handle the muddin if you gear conservatively. Water is bad for electronics so just stick to the mud or buy a waterproof ESC.

[kart38]

You are quite right. We just got our first real accumulation of snow this week. It was maybe two inches, at most. It is now mostly gone. It has been a fairly dry winter, which is weird.

The winter I got my T-Maxx, two years ago, we had about a foot and a half of snow. That was a lot of fun to run in.

Jason

[twisted]

well guys sorry for my apsent t . i ran into trouble with project mt jump truck. here it is!
with the bigger masher 2000 on the truck my stock slipper couldnt handle it. it was that and the gear ratio i have to run with the motor i have. anywas with the slipper all the way tightened down it still slipped, hardly moved. i tried locking the slipper by drilling all the way thro the slipper plates. bad idea, stripped gears as soon as i hit the throtle. so heres the next idea and so far so good. i went and bought and associated slipper. these slipperes are bigger roungd then the hpi ones.the only prob with the associated slipper is the top shaft on the hpi is smaller round then the associated. so i made some shims and ta da! i havent been able to bash due to weather but did some back and forth throtle hits with good results. :D

[creep]

What's the best way to remove the chrome from the stock wheels with the tires already mounted?

[twisted]

buy new ones :p sorry but i dont know of any easy way.

[AJC9]

You could try grinding or sanding the crome off with a dremmel tool or something like that.

[creep]

Thanks but I discovered that the wire brush wheel for my Dremel takes it off nicely and doesn't take any plastic with it.

[twisted]

broke the rear belt today on my mt! :mad:

[AJC9]

I hate when that happens ... I orderd two from Tower today just in case.

I won a RRP topshaft on eBay today too!! Woo Hoo !!

And I finally finished painting a new body too ...

http://www.ajc9.com/files/RCPix/EMTProLine2_small_.jpg

It's been a good Saturday ...

[twisted]

nice paint aj!

[creep]

I got a set of those wheels and a set of Masher 2ks for X-mas. They look so perty I almost don't wont to use them:D

[twisted]

hey creep. lmk if you have any trouble with your slipper slipping to much when you use the masher 2000.

[AJC9]

Thanks twisted. The Team Orion internal graphics make a big difference. I was getting tired of plain colors and simple designs.

http://www.ajc9.com/files/RCPix/LetItSnow3.jpg

Got a few inches of snow to play in, but I had the bowties on. Those things turn into slicks real fast. Still had lots of fun. Gotta go back to the Dirthawgs or maybe try some of those Mashers.

[twisted]

i like the mashers but like i said before the stock slipper could not handle the bigger tires with the gear ratio i was running. has anyone else had such a problem?

[creep]

I ran my MT with the wheels from my Wild Dagger. They have Masher2ks on them and it ran fine. I was running the stock gears with a 17t Speed Gems 2. The only thing I noticed was the front end wiggling when it was in reverse (could be from the wider offste wheels).

[twisted]

hmmm, i was running a 14 double geared with 15/91

[ScMc]

im going to be running g-hawgs on my nmt soon. they are bout the same size as mashers. What gearing would be best that would still give me tons of torque and acceleration? thanks a lot

[metalry101]

Hey guys~
It's been a while since I've been on this board, or any board for that matter. My MT is running strong right, sadly, it's the only one out of four cars that runs right now. Anyways, I got an MTronics speedo for it a little while ago, just their cheap one for now. Once I get some more funds I think I'm going to get the SportMax, 8 turn motor limit, fwd/rvs and waterproof, 75 bux? That's gotta be sweet. Then the Eco 20 will go in the Micro. But anyways, any suggestions for a quality mod to run? And what turn? I definately want a single or double wind, and a lot of speed. I have a P2K2 Pro in the MT right now, which gives me pretty good scoot, but I want a mod for speed. The MT spins my Pro-Line Gladiators very well, which brings me to another thing, I have Masher 2Ks and and Gladiators, and both are awesome. The Mashers are hard to gear for though, any suggestions for gearing w/ stock motor? I just need the thing to spin them in the mud and be able to climb. I have a 14 tooth, but even then it struggles. I'm thinking I'll maybe get a P2K because I've heard it just has INSANE torque. The Gladiators grab extremely well though. I know we kinda got a Dirt Hawg fan club goin on here, but if any of you are in the market for some tires, check out the Gladiators, they are off the hook in looks and especially traction. Not as good as DH's on-road, but I think they're better off-road. Oh ya, one more question. I have the Duratrax bearing set, and I'm pretty sure that I've all but seized a lot of them through lack of maintenance. Anybody know of somewhere to get quality sealed bearings? Any help would be appreciated. Thanx guys

[ScMc]

bearings (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM856&P=7) There ya go

[TrickSpeed]

Wow, havn't posted in awhile.

metalry101: Masher 2000's are VERY hard to gear for, I would say use 14/96 with a torque tuned p2k, but some people say that they cant go that low without the motor rubbing aginst the belts. I would say go with a p2k pro if you dont know how to mess with motors or a team orion core stock (ive heard they are good in the torque department). No matter what you gear, it will still struggle since the tires have a lot of rotational mass, and most of it is further away from yhe rim than other tires since its so big. I could gear even 12/96 (dont even think its possible) and the motor would still have its work cut out for it.

As for your esc, its limited at 20 turns, so stick with a stock motor. Alot of people have burned their mtroniks near the limit so play it safe.

Gladiators are sweet looking tires, but right now im looking to get hole-shots so i can race at the track.



for whoever wanted bearng advice: I run Dynamite Red Seals on my truck and they are worth every penny. Not one bearing has failed or begun to fail in over 2 years of use. They are my personal recommendation if you've got the money.

[mike80corvette]

does any body here have a 2 speed how fast does it go with it does it make a diffrence

[twisted]

guys...this is the problem i have had with the masher 2000,gearing and the slipper.i had to custome fab up some shims to get a associated slipper to work and eilongate the motor screw holes to alow for different gearing.iam running a 15 pin with a 91 spur.i have plenty of get up and go. still slipps the slipper at full lock. running a 17 turn single.

[DBWalker]

hello fellow mt owners... first time on this part of the ZONE.. i have had an MT for 3 years now and have yet to figure out how to get anything smaller than a 23t 48p pinion and 96t spur to work without rubbing the rear belt.. there is an article in a recent issue of RC CAR ACTION magazine featuring the MT. it is one sweet tricked out truck. one of the items used was a 18t 48p pinion. i sent an e-mail to the person doing the article and the reply was that he had noticed the belt rub on the motor after the mag had went to print and it was too late to make any changes.. reading through some of these threads i noticed that some had concerns about the masher 2k's.. i too had a set and because of the diameter of the tires, it takes more effort for the motor to turn ruber that big and heavy too i might add.. nice tires though. i finally adapted them to fit my son's radio shack truck and they work great.. i race my mt and have started running in the spec truck class as a 4wd with the 2wd trucks. if there is any particular setup that works without flaw, feel free to pass it on..:)

[TrickSpeed]

twisted: if the slipper is giving you so much trouble maybe you should just take it off, and be careful to land jumps off throttle. You should be fine with no slipper on there, i've done it before and as long as you dont land on throttle your spurs should be fine.

DBWalker: Welcome to the club! :cool:

What I did to be able to go as low as 14/96 is drill anther hole in the motor plate for motor mounting. I dont have a picture right now, but i will try and post one up tomorrow. You just drill another hole on the right spot and 14 tooth pinions will be no problem. Just wait for the pics and they will explain everything. :cool:

mike80corvette: The 2 speed is on road use only. It will add 5-15 mph depending on the motor which you use.

[TrickSpeed]

bump

[jasonw]

My Mt is my opldest truck. Only problem I ever had with it was cracking the passenger rear suspention arm. It still drives fine but there is a little breakage back there. I love the truck. It seems I have having the same trouble as others. I love rock crawling and the like however I can not produce enough power to get over a lot of obsticles. I use a midnight 2 Pro motor. Any suggestions? BTW The Pro Line Dirt Hawng tires are absolutly awsome on this truck. Got mine over 2 years ago and still using them.

[jasonw]

To get the Mt setup I email rccaraction about it. They sent me a hard copy in the mail of there thrash test and set up What a great bunch. Did not even charge me.

[B!!!]

What setup did they use?

[jasonw]

I will have to look for the papor in the morning. There set up[ was more for a 4X4 racing truck "speed and handeling" Much diferent than the set up I use now. Now adays all I do is rock crawling with the truck

[mike80corvette]

why does my front dogbones pop out when i turn. what adjustment to i need to make to stop this. and also who makes aluminum parts and graphite parts for the truck besides hpi. Does anybody know where i can get a graphite or alumium frame.

[TrickSpeed]

Umm, they pop out because they are too short depending on the height of the truck. Go get a ball point clickie pen, take out the spring from the pen, cut the spring in half, and put the 2 halves in each of the front diff outdrives. Problem solved.

HPI makes a grahite chassis for the mt, although it isn't woven graphite. No one makes aluminum, although i could give you the name of someone who is willing to make you one. Lots of companies make aluminum parts for the mt: HPI, GPM, Integy, JET, Cross, and a whole bunch other. Alot of the hopups for the pro 2 like steering knuckles and hub carriers will also fit the mt.

[AJC9]

Finally got out to play today ...

http://www.ajc9.com/files/RCPix/EMTProLine2_Nature_300x400.jpg

I've got to try that spring trick next time I clean my truck ... I've been using these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LP2386&P=X) to take up the slack ... the spring seems like it might be better ...

[metalry101]

Geez, it's been slow in here lately. Anyways, anyone want to buy my MT? I'm trying to get some new toys, so I'm selling mine. If you have something sweet to trade me offer it too. Mine's got a few upgrades, and it's been pretty well maintained.

[TrickSpeed]

Nice paint AJC9! Are those the team orion stick on designs?

The spring trick works great, just be careful not to lose them (but then again clickie pens are basically given away at many places so it shouldn't be too hard to get some more).

[AJC9]

Originally posted by TrickSpeed
Nice paint AJC9! Are those the team orion stick on designs?

yep .. I was getting tired of plain colors and simple mask paterns so I figured they would be worth a try .. I was trying to fade from metalic black to metalic red near the middle of the truck, but I got a little happy spraying the black and the fade happens near the tail of the truck instead, it still came out good ..

http://www.ajc9.com/files/RCPix/EMTProLine2_Nature2_300x400.jpg

[metalry101]

Hey guys, I think I've posted about this in here before, but it was a while ago. I'm trying to sell my MT. Anyone in here want it? I really need the money so I'd let it go pretty cheap. I have the 2-speed, mounted Gladiators (barely used), mounted Masher 2000's (barely used), and the stock street tires. I would be willing to part out the tires or 2-speed if anyone's interested, but I would rather sell it as a whole. Everything's in pretty good shape, and I have pics. LMK if you're interested. You all know how great this truck is, but I need the money for other things right now. Thanx guys

[YZ-870C]

i am getting my RS4 MT pretty soon.

any driving tips? upgrade tips?

where can i get the best deal on aftermarket parts?

:D

[Megatron]

Originally posted by twisted
hey where is the mt family? :confused:

Don't know if I'm "related", but I've been busy with work. But it's Springtime, and I'm scrapping the EMT Racer and starting from scratch with another EMT. (that I got at my lhs for $20:eek: fully assembled!!)

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by YZ-870C
i am getting my RS4 MT pretty soon.

any driving tips? upgrade tips?

where can i get the best deal on aftermarket parts?

:D

I would suggest changing the stock plastic "camber links" with turnbuckles and ballcups, mine always seemed to pop off on my NMT. :rolleyes:

Also slices of fuel tubing in the outdrives can work well to keep dogbones from popping out. Oh and check my webpage for lots of pics of NMT's and plastic bumpers and skirts! www.mossdog.freeservers.com Check out this shell.......

:cool:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL11/870352/1577619/21286585.jpg

[zooyork155]

I have an electric MT with the Baja Bug Body. I alos just got a Nitro MT-1 body from my LHS. I know the nitro MT bodies can be made to fit the E MT but was wondering if anyone out there had any advice?:confused:

[Megatron]

Just set the clear bodies over your EMT chassis, and mark off the posts with a marker. Then paint them, and use your marks to determine where the holes should be. I think the front holes are lined up anyway, though...

[psklenar]

Good morning,

I'm getting back into the hobby after a 15+ year break (previously had a Kyosho Ultima and Tamiya Ninja - both electric). While I would really like to get into nitro, considering where I'll be running the car 90% of time, electric is just the smarter way to go. Therefore I've been looking at various cars/trucks and have pretty much decided to go with the HPI RS4 MT kit with the Baja Bug body (I'm going to paint it identical to an old Baja Beetle some friends & I built back in the '70s).

This is going to be purely a basher and will be run in my yard and occastionally local parking lots and/or parks. I have no intention of racing. My question is ... what upgrades (I guess they're called "hop ups" now-a-days?) should I consider immediately? I figure the aluminum shocks & ball bearing kits are a no-brainer. Any other recommendations to improve durability and/or runtimes?

Also, given my expected type of running, what type of motor would make sense? Stock or a reduced number of turns and why? I don't recall there being quite so many options in motors back when I was last into this.

Thanks!
pat----

[YZ-870C]

lol pat

i know what you mean man

i myself just got back into hobby not long ago after almost 10 yr, and i too don't remember things were THIS complicated :) (i had a old tamiya 2WD and yokomo super dogfighter <-- i still have this one and it still runs :D ).

anyway, i just got myself a rolling chassis of rs4 mt and i plan to do a complete re-built with ball bearings and T-maxx shocks for the rear. i already got some carbon graphite suspension arms for back up. but i will hold on to them and see how the stock suspension arms are/will be holding up.

i will be running stock motor (trinity green monster) since they should give decent punch and need less maintenance than modified motors. i have a dynoed stock motor in my pro 3 and i am pretty happy with it.

[psklenar]

Originally posted by YZ-870C
i know what you mean man

i myself just got back into hobby not long ago after almost 10 yr, and i too don't remember things were THIS complicated :) ...

Okay, so it's not just me? Good! :)


... i plan to do a complete re-built with ball bearings and T-maxx shocks for the rear. i already got some carbon graphite suspension arms for back up. ...

If you don't mind my asking, why T-maxx shocks as opposed to aluminum HPI's? Are the T-maxx ones more durable or what? Also, what's the deal with all the Carbon/Graphite parts these days ... I thought it was that carbon was lighter and therefore better for racing, but that weight savings came at the expense of durability?


... i will be running stock motor (trinity green monster) since they should give decent punch and need less maintenance than modified motors. ...

Good, so I don't have to break the bank there. :)

Thanks for the reply! T'is greatly appreciated.

later,
pat----

[YZ-870C]

i should have explained it a little more :p

since i already have the T-maxx shocks, that's why i am going to replace the stock rear shock with them.

if i don't have the T-maxx shocks in the first place, then i would just beat the crap out of the stock shocks and replace them with some threaded shocks later on. i think the super shocks from hpi is super expensive though.

i don't really know what's the deal with the carbon graphite parts from hpi. they are certainly not the carbon fiber ones that i used to see. the hpi carbon graphite parts looks just like the plastic ones they replace. but carbon graphite is suppose to be lighter and stronger than the plastic ones.

having said that, in one of my pro 3 vs. metal post on the basketball court encounter, the front carbon graphite suspension arm and up right both broke in half?! :( it seemed to me that the crash isn't really a full-thorttle kind of crash, but the carbon graphite parts still broke ... maybe it's a bad angle or something. i wonder how would the stock plastic suspension arm and up right will hold up in the same situation ... ?? :confused:

[psklenar]

Ah, okay, using T-Maxx shocks makes a lot of sense then. :) As far as my planning to upgrade the stocks ones right off the bat ... the stock, plastic shocks are the one weak problem I recall from both of my old cars and I just wanted to "get that out of the way" during the initial build. Same with the bearings.

Carbon graphite broke? Yikes! I thought that stuff was supposed to be stronger than the stock plastics? Hmmm ... think I might hold off on that particular upgrade for now. :)

Again, thank you very much for such a quick reply!
pat----

[TrickSpeed]

Hey guys!

psklenar: Stick with the stock shocks. They are perfectly fine, the hobby has gotten better you know. Don't waste your money on ally shocks unless you plan on big jumps (15 ft+) often, and event then just wait till the stockers blow.

As for the graphite arms, they are not woven graphite, they are plastic with graphite bits in it to stiffen (stiffen=more brittle= might actually break easier). Just boil the stock arms for 10 minutes and breaking shouldn't be a problem for a while. The boiling gives the arms a little flex to sapre them from breaking as easily. Graphite doesn't = stronger.

Motor wise, I'd say go with a Trinity P2K (not P2K2). Lots of torque to move the truck around, and decent top speed (25-27 MPH).

A good hop up would be RPM HD Ball Cups, get them before you build so you don't have to do it over. The stock ball cups won;t last too long without developing slop.

[Megatron]

Originally posted by YZ-870C
...i don't really know what's the deal with the carbon graphite parts from hpi. they are certainly not the carbon fiber ones that i used to see. the hpi carbon graphite parts looks just like the plastic ones they replace. but carbon graphite is suppose to be lighter and stronger than the plastic ones...

I had a friend who used the carbon graphite chassis for the EMT. He said it was a little lighter, but alot more brittle, like it was just waiting to snap in half...

Now carbon fiber is the greatest material ever made

Psklenar: like Mossdog said earlier, you'll definitely want turnbuckles and some RPM ballcups.

[psklenar]

TrickSpeed & Megatron,

Thanks for jumping in, I appreciate it.

I think I'll hold off on non-fiber based Carbon replacement parts for now.

I may order the aluminum shocks at the same time and set them aside for whenever I finally blow the originals.

What are RPM Ballcups? And how many would I need? Are they just in the front suspention or both front & rear? Unfortunately HPI doesn't offer the actual construction manual online, just JPGs. If you could tell me which section of the manual to look at, I can narrow the search thru the pictures.

In terms of motors ... sounds like two recommendations for Trinity. Hmmm, don't recall them being around 15+ years ago. ;)

Again, thanks for the suggestions! I'm hoping to build this right the first time. :)

[YZ-870C]

so for general jumping and bashing around, should i get the carbon graphite arms or the plastic arms?

psklenar: as you wish (http://www.nitrorc.com/reference/manuals/pdf/rs4mt.pdf)

[AJC9]

RPM Ballcups (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXEV19)

and

Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckle Kit (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXZJ57)

or

HPI Turnbuckle and Ballcup Kit (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB51)

another hop-up I would suggest ..

HPI Graphite Front Chassis Brace (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM697&P=M)

[YZ-870C]

Titanium Turnbuckle is better than steel? less easy to bent?
anybody has experience with them?

[psklenar]

Originally posted by YZ-870C
so for general jumping and bashing around, should i get the carbon graphite arms or the plastic arms?

I'm looking forward to the answer to this one myself. :)

Now when folks talk about boiling the stock plastic arms ... are they talking about each time you go to run the truck or just every once in a while?


as you wish (http://www.nitrorc.com/reference/manuals/pdf/rs4mt.pdf)

Dang, you're good! :)


AJC9,

Someone on usenet also recommended the graphite chassis brace. Just what does this do?


All,

Thanks for the suggestions and accepting yet another rookie to your little home on the 'net. :)

pat----

[AJC9]

I've got the titanium ones on my truck ... they look nice ... do they actually improve performance ?? prolly not. They are slightly lighter and stronger but they aren't something you need to have to run the truck IMO.

The plastic a-arms (these are the only ones I know of) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LP2258&P=X) will be fine once you boil them .. buy a few sets and you'll be set for a while. You only have to boil them once and they'll take quite a good hit before they snap.

The chasis brace stiffens the entire truck. With out it there is a little flex in it that may allow the front belt to skip.

Also make sure you have a few extra belts .. esp for the rear .. a little peble can get in there and chew up the belts real quick - even with the inner body on it.

My stock shocks are fine and have held up to all of the abuse I've put them through .. I did glue the bottom cap on (It just snaps into place and it poped off after a few jumps when I first ran my truck)

[psklenar]

Interesting ... both the Lundsford and the HPI turnbuckles are titanium. :)

After reading from several different sources that the stock shocks really are pretty sturdy, I'm now leaning towards holding off on buying the aluminum ones right off the bat and buying a pair of extra A-Arms and a spare belt or two.

Not sure how soon I'll be getting the car ... all the online shops show the Baja Beetle version of the MT as being "out of stock", "Backorder" or "due mid-April". I'll be visiting the LHS later this week to ask them to order one for me ... their prices basically mirror the online prices I've seen for most everything and where they are more expensive, it's by a very small amount. For such a small difference, I'd really rather support the local folks. :)

So ... here's what I plan ...

HPI RS4 MT Baja Beetle
Trinity P2K motor
three 3000A NiMH battery packs
a NiMH safe charger
The JR XS3 radio system ... I've used radios with crystals before - both car & air - and love the idea of no crystals! :D
A reversing ESC - leaning towards a Novak Super Rooster
Spare pair of stock A-Arms
Pair of spare rear belts
Pair of spare front belts
Full Bearing set
Carbon/Graphite replacement Chassis Brace
CVD replacements for the stock dogbones
Titanium replacement turnbuckle & RPM Ballcup set


So. Does anything seem out of whack? Am I missing anything obvious?

Again, thanks for all the suggestions folks!
pat----

[YZ-870C]

:eek:

dude, you are certainly not on a budget ... ;) :D

[psklenar]

Oh I'm on a budget all right. I only fantasized about the $1000 Ofna 9.5 pro package for an hour or two. :) I've got a good income and the only debt is my mortgage - the car and all credit cars were all paid off before the house purchase last year. And with my refinancing this week ... I'm looking at nearly a $100/mo savings there. And since my LHS only stocks RTR's, he'll have to order my kit which means I can spread the purchase over a couple of paychecks.

Also, I could save a SIGNIFICANT bit of cash if I were willing to go RTR ... but to me the building has always been a significant part of the fun and satisfaction.

I know the radio set (Tx, Rx & 2 x Servos) will cost $230-ish ... more than the car itself and maybe even including the various upgrades (bearings, turnbuckles, etc). But it's more flexible. I don't have to worry about losing crystals or having the pins break, nor do I have to worry about my neighbor or about friends coming over and running into the "lack of channels" issue - all problems I've faced before.

Any recommendations for a less expensive Reversing ESC that still has a low enough draw to maintain a good run time? I've read several very positive articles and postings about the Super Rooster and recall the Novak was considered "good stuff" back when I was last into this.

While it may be a bit more expensive up front, I've learned (the hard way) over the years that it's usually more economical over the long run to do things right the first time. :)

pat----

[Megatron]

Originally posted by YZ-870C
so for general jumping and bashing around, should i get the carbon graphite arms or the plastic arms?

psklenar: as you wish (http://www.nitrorc.com/reference/manuals/pdf/rs4mt.pdf)

This is what came on a caution leaflet in the package with the graphite arms for the RS4 MT:

The carbon reinforced parts are much harder than the normal materials. If aluminum or titanium hardware is to be used, it is first recommended that a steel part be used to tap the plastic to avoid breaking your aluminum or titanium parts.

Those are big words...

[Megatron]

psklenar:

If you think you may ever tweak the truck's handling, you might consider ball differentials. The gear differentials are indestructible, but are not adjustable at all.

[psklenar]

Megatron,

Considering that this will be used in my yard, street, local parks and friends yards and never actually raced ... I'm not sure such tweakability is important. I'm more interested in durability and reliability for this one. If I get hooked into it enough to consider racing ... I'll buy a different kit & build it with that in mind. But for now, I really like the sound of ...

... The gear differentials are indestructible, ...

:D

Thanks for the suggestion!
pat----

[B!!!]

The gears in the diffs are tough, but the plastic housing that the belt turns (especially the rear one) is not. I've striped one and noticed quite a bit of wear on a second. I eventually got a Robinson Racing aluminum ball diff and it has held up great.

[psklenar]

The Baja Bug kit has been ordered via my LHS. Should be in by the end of next week. Will be ordering the upgrade parts for the build from Tower this week. Will buy the radio/ESC and motor in a couple more weeks.

Thanks for all the assistance in getting started folks! I'll keep you appraised ... and I suspect I'll come up with some more questions for this is running. :)

Thanks!
pat----

[psklenar]

Quick question ... getting ready to order the "extras" ... several folks have mentioned (here and on Usenet) that I should replace the front dogbones with CVDs. What about the rear dogbones? Are they not an issue? (hopefully {fingers crossed**)

Thanks,
pat----

[Julsisere]

Psklenar,

here is a few tips for you,
in my 5 years running the EMT's I have picked up.

Firstly, you need bearings,

2. Graphite front chassis Brace (stop breaking chassis, and stop flex allowing front belt to catch - stopping car!)
3. Stainless Steel HingePin set (stock pins bend, and cause arms and bulkheads to break)
4. Robinson Racing one piece Topshaft (if you can find one, rumored to be Discontinued, Stock topshaft pins repeatedly snap, causing no drive!)
5. Titanium Turnbuckles w/rpm ball cups (stock cups pop off, and stock turnbuckles bend)

Those things are important,

other tips, buy 4 x additional 4/8 bearings, 2 for the belt tensioner, and 2 to put in the steering rack to remove slop, also buy some ball studs, and a small ti turnbuckle (any material will do) and use stock or rpm ball cups to replace wire linkage in steering rack. Doing this will remove slop, giving more precise steering.

Also with your belt tensioner, you can drill the centre of a old pulley out and fit bearings inside it, then place it back on as the tensioner, this allows smoother and more precise tensioner action, also allows you to apply more tension to the belt when it gets a little tooo stretched.

Other things worse considering are,

Alloy Knuckles, the stock ones have a tendancy to strip out,
the bolts fall out and you loose the little bushing, pain in the bum!
locktight a set of alloys in and forget that problem,

Heatsink Motor plate not only looks nice but seems to soak up
some of the heat, the EMT is known to have cooling problems, so it's a good idea.

Graphite Belt tensioner, is a good idea because it stiffens out your back end, making it stronger, also it does not flex like the stock belt tensioner, so it allows you to have proper tension on your belts and helps the belt run smoother because the tensioner is not flexed on a angle.

Lots of spare pinions,
the stock gearing is really low, and more for 13-12 turn motors.
if you run anything higher, you might need to get a bigger pinion.

HPI Diff spring kit, works a charm for tuning your Gear diffs. I was surprised how firm yet smooth I could make myn.
(I have RRP ball diffs, but prefer the gear diffs, less maintainence.)

anyway there is more but I would go on all day.

regards
Juls

[Julsisere]

I dropped my Novak Brushless into my EMT last night,
first time, havn't tried it yet but plan to try very soon,
Gearing will be a big question, I'm still working on it.

BTW,
check out my vid of my emt I made about 2 years ago.

http://www.rccars.com/rcmovies/downloads/movies/Artists/JC/emtconspiracy-h.mpg

Kind regards
Juls

[Megatron]

Wow, Juls. I haven't seen you on the web since way back when on HPI's site.

Good to see/hear from you. :D

Check out my EMT. What do you think?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid4/p658244ce13edb1c0384c131dbf97f43d/fe51cad1.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid4/pce565ad49cb8c5594a816f8296d3fbaf/fe51ca4c.jpg

[Julsisere]

Looks Sweet Mega,

I only just put my EMT back together after ages,

I'm having huge problems with the slipper, but I think I might have fixed it, also having problems with the rear belt slipping :-(

I never used to have these probs!

I only think I've fixed it cause I went outside and drove this ramp like twice, did one backflip, then next time I hit the ramp off camber, and it landed on the road front first and the front of my Graphite Chassis snapped off..

Not that thats a problem, will just pull another chassis out of the spare parts draws, but pain in the ass transfering everything over :-(

BTW where did you pinch the Battery Trays from?

regards
Juls

[Sebring]

12-13 turn? Really? The first thing I ran in my EMT was a 12x2, and the truck had absolutely no acceleration once so ever. Running it with a 19x2 and it seems to run a lot better, but sooner or later I'm going to fork out the cash for a 9x3. That should help it out in the torque department. Any recomendations on spur/pinion combinations?

[Julsisere]

you will probably need to pickup a 99 or 101 tooth Spur Gear from RW Racing to be able to run a small enough pinion gear on that engine.

regards
Juls

[Mossdog]

I currently am working on getting two NMT's running , just thought that I would stop in to suggest some plastic bumpers for all you electric runners! Lightweight and very durable ( a set has never been broken yet!) Check my webpage for info on Plastic Bumpers/skidplates! Thanks!
www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[Julsisere]

I can't see how those bumpers would fit the emt?

[YZ-870C]

shock spring vs shock oil :confused:

what kind (how much weight) shock oil should i use with a certain spring rate (color)?

i don't race, just general backyard bashing, jumping of curb and stuff :D

thanks :)

[Julsisere]

A good general bashing setup,

using hpi shocks
make sure you have a couple of HPI teflon piston sets handy.

#4 pistons up front 25-35 wt oil
#3 pistons out back 20-25wt oil

Black or Blue up front,
Blue or Purple out back.

front inner holes
rear outer on shock tower,
inner or middle on lower

Hardpack low traction slightly bumpy race tracks
#2-3 Piston up front
30-40 wt oil
Black or Yellow soft springs depending on how bumpy, White if super bumpy and technical (slow)
Middle hole used if shock holds it's height, otherwise use inner and let the spring sag down to give ride height if it's really bumpy,
on smooth drop to the outer hole and use a firmer spring with a medium oil

rear
#1-2 Piston 25-35 wt oil
Black or yellow used, middle and outer holes used.

Arms Level front and rear, or slightly below level,
set front sag level, and rear sag level, allow to droop under power slightly, use hole that allows the arms more upward movement than down if bumpy.

Hope this helps,

regards
Juls

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by Julsisere
I can't see how those bumpers would fit the emt?

Doh sorry I attached the wrong pic up there! Here are the bumpers!

[Julsisere]

I still can't see how they would fit..

the EMT half of the front bulkhead (arm holders) is the front bumper.

regards
Juls

[Mossdog]

Ok I understand what your getting at.....the "bulkhead" stays in place to hold the diff/hinge pins in place, the tiny stock "bumper" stays on the truck. These bumpers mount directly underneath the chassis via the diff screws (HPI #Z581) . The trailing edge of the bumpers acts as a skid plate, check out my website for more detailed information and mounting instructions!

www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[psklenar]

:)

Yep, my RS4 MT Baja Bug kit is sitting on the work desk. Picked it up at the LHS on the way home from work this evening. My upgrade parts from Tower Hobbies showed up yesterday. Tomorrow morning when I go out for errands, i'll pick up some Loctite and CA glue and start putting 'er together this weekend. Hopefully I'll be in position to mark & cut the body by next weekend so I can paint. Currently plan to pick up an engine, radio, ESC, charger and a pair of batteries with the next pay check.

Should have it running in two weekends. Although if I have more "free" time than expected ... may end up charging the electronics (instead of waiting for payday) and get it running sooner. :)

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! And if you've got more (e.g.; recommendations for a reversing ESC, motor, radio, charger & batteries), I'm all ears. I've already got some ideas, but I'm always willing to consider other options ... especially if they're less expensive but still good quality!

G'night,
pat----

[psklenar]

been a busy weekend. construction's only 90% complete. but what is done, has gone together nicely. :)

pat----

[Julsisere]

Well Pat,

let us know how you go with the car.

regards
Juls

[psklenar]

:(

The kit is missing one of the bushings from the "Traction Control Thrust Washer set". And of course, it's the one bushing that's unique in the kit ... just slightly different enough in size. {sigh** Discovered it monday night, called HPI Customer Service yesterday morning and they said they'd ship one out to me ASAP. {fingers crossed**

On the other hand, I picked up the paint for the body last night and now will have time to trim, paint & decal before I screw the poor car up. :D

Question ... some folks on here and others on Usenet have suggested that I go with the Trinity P2K as my first motor, and I've read good things about it, so that sounds fine to me. However the gent behind the counter at my LHS asked whether I intend to race and when i replied "No, just bouncing around the yard for the most part", he suggested that I go with Trinity "Chameleon 2". I didn't buy anything yest since I'm waiting for next friday's paycheck. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter? Does anyone know why one motor might be better than the other for just playing around - off road in the yard (less than a year old, very rough yard still)?

Thanks,
pat----

[AJC9]

I've used the P2K .. I loved it .. plenty of torque and speed for general bashing on bumpy stuff .. I've recently gone to a Team Orion 17 turn double Pilot motor .. it still has plenty of torque and lots more speed .. the lower runtimes are the trade off ..

[Julsisere]

Anything around 17 Machine wound mods will work great if your not too worried about outright speed,

the Team Orion Orbital PRO BB range is based directly on the
Orion Core Series mods, just with a machine wound armature, and they work very well available as a 19/3 17/3 14/2 13/3 ect.

May also be worth looking at the Trinity Speed Gems series with the new P-94 brush system, something in a Double wind is more desirable for the torque required to push all 4 wheels over.

I believe reedy have some mid priced motors in the same league, but I don't know much about them. Reedy is too expensive here in Australia.

Kind regards
Juls
Radiomodels

[EMT^Racer]

ive gotta nice and cheap team orion orbital pro bb. the 13x3 did really well in my truck :D

btw, i found this a few days ago. now thats sexy! oh yes, just look at that big fat piece of purpley heat sink. it appreciates the trucks value in an instant :p

[psklenar]

Originally posted by EMT^Racer
ive gotta nice and cheap team orion orbital pro bb. the 13x3 did really well in my truck :D

Would the stock gears work okay with a 13x3? Or these other motors that have been mentioned? :confused:

*sigh* ... I do not recall there being so many choices 15+ years ago. :(

pat----

[Julsisere]

in My experience the stock gearing is perfect for a 13/2
you may need to go down 1 tooth for a 13/3 because of the lesser torque.

Also if you plan to run longer than about 6-7 minutes at a time lower gearing will help keep things cooler.

kind regards
Juls

[YZ-870C]

besides HPI super shocks, is there any other shocks that we can use for the front?

any more *affortable* option? :D

[M16-A2]

Kyosho Twin Cap Pros:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSC41&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSC42&P=7

Mediums for the front, Long for the rear.

[Megatron]

I use Duratrax shocks for their MT. They're purple-anodized, huge, threaded 1/8th scale units. They come pre-assembled and they're $16 a pair. The rear ones fit too.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid60/pb76d13ad1c57259af112987414ad3769/fc4edfed.jpg

[metalry101]

I haven't posted in here in a while because I'm trying to sell my truck. Anyone want it? It's got a 2-speed, and mounted Gladiators, neither of which has seen much action. I would part out either of these items, but I'd prefer to keep the truck whole. I'd give it all to anyone who wants it for 110 plus shipping. All you would need is electronics. If you want any of that, PM me, or e-mail me cuz I know this isn't the Buy/Sell/Trade forum so I don't want to clog it up w/ stuff about my truck. Thanx guys

[YZ-870C]

Megatron, you have the model # for the shocks?

does it comes with all the hardware for installation?

[Megatron]

No, but I can get it for ya... Lemme see... part#DTXC9005. They come with everything you need for installation. $16.99 a pair at Tower Hobbies.
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dtxc9005.jpg

The rears are part# DTXC9010.
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dtxc9010.jpg

[YZ-870C]

thanks a lot :D

one more thing

on the upper shock mount, there isn't a ball joint attachment? how should i attach it to the shock tower?

thanks :)

[Megatron]

I used Associated shock mount... thingies. I'm not sure what they're even called, but every hobby shop on earth has them. They might set you back $2.

So I guess they come with almost everything you need...

[Adam202]

heres a pic of my bros MT with T-maxx tires and T-maxx shocks. the shocks are there to stay but the tires and rims gotta go.

[psklenar]

Click on these small images for larger (~ 900x600 pixel) pictures (only if you want to see the larger images, that is! :) ):

http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/tn_P0002844.jpg (http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/P0002844.JPG) http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/tn_P0002848.jpg (http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/P0002848.JPG) http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/tn_P0002849.jpg (http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/P0002849.JPG)
http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/tn_P0002850.jpg (http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/P0002850.JPG) http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/tn_P0002851.jpg (http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/P0002851.JPG) http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/tn_P0002868.jpg (http://www.sklenar.info/images/models/HPI_Baja_Bug/P0002868.JPG)

Still waiting for that missing bushing from HPI. Think I've got evertyhing else tho ... :)

pat----

[zooyork155]

I've just put a reedy 550 emaxx motor in my MT and it's sweet!! I was just wondering if anyone knows about any better diff's than what the MT comes with. Also, where can I find an aftermarket topshaft??

[YZ-870C]

anybody used 1/10 or 1/8 touring car tires and rims for onroad?

[Megatron]

Originally posted by zooyork155
I've just put a reedy 550 emaxx motor in my MT and it's sweet!! I was just wondering if anyone knows about any better diff's than what the MT comes with. Also, where can I find an aftermarket topshaft??

Does the E-Maxx motor run ok? The guy at my lhs told me that those motors are designed to run paralell and NEED (and he emphasized "need") 12 cells.

As far as as better diffs, you can use the ball diffs, and the one way from the Super Nitro cars.
The only aftermarket topshaft I knew of was the one by RRP, but rumor has it, they discontinued it.

[Megatron]

Originally posted by YZ-870C
anybody used 1/10 or 1/8 touring car tires and rims for onroad?

I'd imagine that'd look kinda funny. Besides, the ones that come with the kit (the F-150 and Ram kits, anyway) work great onroad.

[zooyork155]

It's a reedy bad maxx and it runs great. Lots of torque. I've only run it for about 5 minutes at a time. So far its been a hoot!

[darkdemon]

this crankshaft is from the original .12r sc with white case and purple head and im trying to get it running but the clutch i have doesnt fit it fits the .15 fe but not the .12 anyone know what cltch and flywheel will fit? this is the crank shaft number you can look at it on the u.s. hpi website under buy hpi and under engine parts for the 12.r sc white case i will really appreciate your help if you can help me i need to know thans in advance

CRANK SHAFT (STD/12R)
part number:1931

[Mossdog]

You may want to repost in the Nitro MT and Mt racer forum, this is intended for the electric MT. If you need an immediate answer check out http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk the NMT column here is kinda slow.

[crono man]

ok guys looking for a new bashing car and the MT caught my attention.
but i have few questions/concerns maybe you all could help me out with

1)the drivetrain looks pretty exposed for off-road use could this be a real problem?

2)is the chassis pretty stiff?

3)are the stock shocks anygood?

4)finally im going to be running this thing at my local bmx track can it take jumps as high as a good stadium truck(i.e losi xxx-t)

[Megatron]

1.) The exposed drivetrain is not a problem. The truck comes with HPI's "3-stage dirt protection which comes w/ a lexan spur gear cover, a lexan "inner body", plus the truck body itself. I only use the truck body, and neither of the other covers, and have had no problems with debris in the drivetrain.

2.) The chassis isn't all that stiff initially, but with HPI's chassis brace ($19.00) it's hella stiff.

3.) The quality of the stock shocks is difficult to answer. Some people swear by them, but I stripped mine on my second run.

4.) It has the potential to to jump very well (Check out the August 2000 issue of RCCA), but certian areas willl need to be strengthened first.

[crono man]

Originally posted by Megatron
1.) The exposed drivetrain is not a problem. The truck comes with HPI's "3-stage dirt protection which comes w/ a lexan spur gear cover, a lexan "inner body", plus the truck body itself. I only use the truck body, and neither of the other covers, and have had no problems with debris in the drivetrain.

2.) The chassis isn't all that stiff initially, but with HPI's chassis brace ($19.00) it's hella stiff.

3.) The quality of the stock shocks is difficult to answer. Some people swear by them, but I stripped mine on my second run.

4.) It has the potential to to jump very well (Check out the August 2000 issue of RCCA), but certian areas willl need to be strengthened first.

one last question,

would you say that the truck is pretty tuff for bashing?

thank you very much for all the info i really appreciate it!:)

[Megatron]

Originally posted by crono man
one last question,

would you say that the truck is pretty tuff for bashing?

thank you very much for all the info i really appreciate it!:)

You're very welcomed.

If by bashing you mean bombing around a empty parking lot, then yes, but if you plan on off-roading with it you'll need to upgrade to turnbuckles (Associated steel ones for their truck are cheap and work well) instead of the supplied threaded rods which tend to bend, or worse, break during "spirited" bashing, and RPM ballcups (which are pretty cheap, too) instead of the stock ones. The stock ballcups pop off if you look at them too hard. Also, boil the suspension arms for 10 minutes before installing them on the truck. It gives them some much needed flexibility. That's all you really need for general bashing.:D

Oh, and a set of ball bearings will do wonders for acceleration and run time.

[Skribble]

Originally posted by Megatron
I use Duratrax shocks for their MT. They're purple-anodized, huge, threaded 1/8th scale units. They come pre-assembled and they're $16 a pair. The rear ones fit too.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid60/pb76d13ad1c57259af112987414ad3769/fc4edfed.jpg What did you use to cut your chassis?

[Megatron]

A rechargable Dremel tool. The smallest, cheapest one they make...

That little thing can cut/grind/sand/shape anything on Earth.

[hooked911]

I need some help with setting up my mt for offroad racing. I have it upgraded pretty good but the handling of the truck is not the best. Here is what i have so far

TI turnbuckles
Full Red Seal ball bearings
Graphite chassis brace
Super shocks
100 tooth spur
Ball diffs front and back
novak ss brushless motor and esc

I need a really good off road setup for this truck. If you can help please post.

[Megatron]

I'm still hunting for a "perfect setup", but to get your handling sorted and find a setup that works for you, you'll probably want an assortment of springs and different weights of shock oil. You may want to consider sway bars, too. The most pronounce change you can make is to get rid of the gear diffs and get ball differentials. They are adjustable and you can tighen and loosen the front and rear end of the truck with them. And if you can get a hold of one, a one-way differenital up front will really help the truck rotate.

[hooked911]

I have all the shock springs and the ball diffs and the one way diff. The problem that im having with the ball diff is the pully that the belt rides on will not tighten down. It has slop that lets it get cocked at an angle which makes the front belt jump off. Do you know anyway to take the slop out of the ball diff?? Also with the ball diff I put it in the truck and after 3 runs it was rought as heck. I also have not had much luck with the one way bearing. It is too much trouble to use. You have to clean it after every run and after about 15 runs mine stopped working even after i cleaned it often. Right now im running a gear diff in the front and a ball diff in the rear. I think im going to go back to gear diffs and be done with it. With the ball diff in the back it is making the back end unload in curves and spin out. The setup info that im looking for is shock positions and camber link positions, and shock oil wts piston numbers and spring colors for a narrow dusty loose track with pretty big jumps. It is a short track and right now i have the brusless motor geared 17/100. I have to say that i love the brushless motor on this truck. I just wish the truck would handle better

[Megatron]

I'm still working on my setup specifics...

So the brushless is pretty cool? I was considering springing for that Hacker brushless system for the E-Maxx and trying to shoehorn it into my MT.

[hooked911]

Yea I love the novak on this truck. It is fast as hell but still controlable. Brushless is the only way to go!!

[Megatron]

RCCA and XRRC have rated them, but no one's given a concrete street price. Was it expensive?

[hooked911]

I got mine from tower hobbies for 240 plus shipping.

[Megatron]

That included the ESC, right?

[hooked911]

yea that is for the motor and speed control.

[Megatron]

Wow. That's not bad at all. I'm just about finished with my "Project MT", and it's in need of a motor...:D

[zooyork155]

I keep breaking the little pins in the top shaft that make the pulleys spin!! The rear pulley in particular has broken twice on me. Does anyone know how to prevent those little pins from breaking!!

[AJC9]

there was an all aluminum top shaft made by Robinson Racing Products .. they are discontinued now .. I got mine on eBay .. there is one up now .. search for Robinson Racing Top Shaft or Item # 3133648730 .. it will come up as Robinson Racing HPI RS4 SPORT + PRO top shaft .. but it will fit the EMT ..

or

you could try using something stronger than the pins in the stock topshaft, I've heard paperclips trimmed to the right size will work ..

[B!!!]

I kept breaking those silly pins too. I ended up cutting an old allen wrench with about the same width as those pins. Much stronger and I haven't broken one of those yet.

[jackhammer74]

That's exactly what I did B!!!, that's pretty cool.
since the allen wrench is reinforced there's no chance it will brake again.

[Megatron]

This is my RS4 HRT. HRT is for hybrid racing truck because it's not 100% MT anymore...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p1790a4e309457b5a374e4a57d4972829/fbd84b9c.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p4230b021ef1a1b5dbe6db2c444625f02/fbd8491a.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p2f4daa41228a9fce79d809c121777ad4/fbd84691.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pf175c478eef02a023059714493f7c2d2/fbd8437d.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p07fd99c9d53ac2a8bbf62658c97f91ff/fbd840ea.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pe15a1bb2422503b3d09a766873c667ba/fbd83dd0.jpg

[AJC9]

drooooooool ...

dats a purty truck ..

[SlimAnus]

Whats up everybody. quick question.... when i tighten the screw on the steering bell crank my wheels cant turn... so I loosen it a bit but i always end up loosing the screw and the steering gets a little sloppy..... any ideas?

[malibu4bbl]

i dont have a MT yet but what about some lock tight? that should work or maybe jsut some silicon or somthign to keep it from coming loose. or try a wwasher or something liek that. jsut an idea

[Megatron]

When I firs assembled my truck, I tightened that screw too much, too. Then I backed it out maybe half a turn and it was fine. I never had a problem with losing the screw, though; how much are you loosening it? Loctite sounds like a good idea.

[TrickSpeed]

Well, it looks like I am back in the MT game. Bought me a used MT setup for the street, with.... get this.... a 9 turn motor and 2 speed! Well it is too bad for this setup since I have a project in mind, lets just say it involves two rear trasmissions, no front belts, gigantic tires, and a custom chassis :D

Thats a sweet HRT you got there Megatron. Have you raced it with that chassis yet? I'm just wondering how a pro 2 chassis would hold up offroad (although it would probably be a hot setup for dirt oval). Oh yea, one more question... what front bulkhead are you using?

[Megatron]

Thanks, Trickspeed.

I still haven't raced it yet. I'm still need to get a good servo and some CVD's. I was worried about the chassis too, so I stuck two together. Plus, I had the lowering kit and it adds the thickness of another chassis plate to the rear of the truck, and the upper deck near the front of the truck, so the chassis effectively 2-3 chassis' thick. I'm thinking/hoping it should hold up. I built this truck to run on a track near my house where electrics tend to run. It's tight and technical with no major jumps.

The front bulkhead was the only complicated part of the whole conversion. It's a mixture of the Pro 2 front bulkhead and it's front and rear shock towers. It took some dremeling and some cutting.


I've almost finished my 3rd EMT which'll be meaner than this one. I'm building for this other brutal track in my area where the 1/8 scale buggies run...

[Falco]

I'm sure you guys are sick of this question, but gearing should i be running with a 17/2 motor? I run with bith the stock street tires and dirt hawgs. I'm real slow when i have the dirt haws on, and I'm not verey impressed with the speed when I'm running the stock tires. I'm currently using the stock gears.

[TrickSpeed]

I thought that the stock gearing is what hpi recommends for 17 turns. But also, dirt hawgs and hpi v-grooves, should be geared differently.

But first answer some questions. Do you have bearings? Which motor are you running?

[Falco]

I'm runnuing a 17 dbl. monsters of touring. havent upgraded to bearings yet due toi lack of funding, just bought a nitro truck. I did manage to get some more speed out of it last night by tweaking the esc though...

[TrickSpeed]

Monsters of touring, eh? I've got one of the 15 turns around here, and it just wont die, so its the motor i run in rain during the winter. However the MOT motors aren't very impressive either (although some winds pulled better numbers than the equivalent speed gems motor in RCCA's dyno test).

I'd say stick with the stock gearing for the street tires, you should get a slight speed increase (1-3mph) when you upgrade to bearings. You may want to gear down 2 or 3 teeth on the pinion for the dirt hawgs though, it sounds like you are overgeared for the offroad tires.

[Falco]

TrickSpeed,

Thanks, I'll try that!

[Falco]

Hey, I 'm thinking about getting a new motor, curently have a monsters of touring 17 dbl. ESC is a Novak Explorer 2, so I'm limited to a 15 turn. Any recemmendations?

Thanks

[ALJR]

any one interested in a nitro mt?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134737

i also have a micro rx:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134219

[jackhammer74]

Originally posted by Falco
Hey, I 'm thinking about getting a new motor, curently have a monsters of touring 17 dbl. ESC is a Novak Explorer 2, so I'm limited to a 15 turn. Any recemmendations?

Thanks

check out the Speed Gems Jade 15t, it's an excellent motor plus it's rebuildable, unlike the monsters of touring.

[Megatron]

I finally finished the HRT's big brother, the RT. No hybrid action here, this one is all MT...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/p3f86f4868ccf2bd7234141b6f3bce681/fb5ce949.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/p8ec7453f2a818f23d655420bd20ed718/fb5efe56.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/p602c7470035d393cdce97dabdbba207f/fb5cefe3.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/p204a6af20864f3b74d2546ab2ca7e3ba/fb5cec86.jpg

And a couple of them together:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/p892745c80a3ffee9d2718ec19e79338f/fb5ce298.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/pb5d45e233b5663ecaab8fcd3616cf393/fb5cdff0.jpg

[TrickSpeed]

Where can i get those graphite C-shaped battery holders?????

I must have some.

[BCat125]

The Mt is one of the most durable rc's out there. I have jumped mine off of a 10 foot ramp over 5 cars had it ladn on cement do a ton of flips and drive away. I did this many times and even though a few things broke it was still driving after this.http://eastcoastrc.com/MTCLEARSALL5.MPG
By the way this was an electric, it sounded like a gas because of the other people on my team.

[B!!!]

Wow BCat125! That's pretty intense! How did you get the opportunity to do this?

[BCat125]

I do monster truck shows all over new england and they let us go out during the show and do what ever we want. So during half time one of our team members brings out a ramp and we see if we can clear the cars.
To be able to do these monster truck shows we had to call clear channel broadcasting and they tell us if we can do certain shows.
If you want to see more videos go to http://eastcoastrc.com/videos.htm

[Megatron]

Originally posted by TrickSpeed
Where can i get those graphite C-shaped battery holders?????

I must have some.

At your lhs, I figure. I made those freehand out of an old Pro 2 chassis...:D

[absoluteracing]

is it ok to run the RS4 MT without the front belt and run it 2 wheel drive?

[BCat125]

Yes it is alright to run it 2 wheel drive but it does not go even close to as fast as it does in 4 wheel drive. It handles somewhat better in 2 wheel drive though.

[B!!!]

It does put a lot of strain on the rear belt though.

[absoluteracing]

I guess having 2 belts is the way to go. Anyone running larger tires than stock, like Pro-line Masher 2Ks? If so, what motor are you running and how is it geared (# of teeth on pinion and spur, 48 pitch)? Is it feasible to do this? Experiences?

[B!!!]

I tried some regular Mashers (borrowed from a friend one day at the BMX track) once with the stock gearing, but didn't really like the performance. They looked cool, but my acceleration was way down. I didn't have a smaller pinion to try at the time though.

I also tried some big ole clodbuster tires once, which was pretty funny. Had to custom fit some 32 pitch gears to gear it way way down, but in the end those tires were just way to big and heavy for one electric motor to move around.

http://www.slapmafro.com/images/monsterbug1.jpg

No matter what I try on the EMT I always end up going back to the Dirt Hawgs.

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by absoluteracing
I guess having 2 belts is the way to go. Anyone running larger tires than stock, like Pro-line Masher 2Ks? If so, what motor are you running and how is it geared (# of teeth on pinion and spur, 48 pitch)? Is it feasible to do this? Experiences?

If you wanna run M2K's you can't really go lower than a 17 turn, if you wanna be geared properly with the stock spur. Maybe if you got the RW Racing 112 tooth spur, and some RRP monster truck pinions you could go lower, but why.

B!!! is right, dirt hawgs are the hot setup for emt's. Although some gladiators look real nice for dirt.

[absoluteracing]

when I go bashing, I get huge air on these big jumps, and when I land, I bottom out. There is a loud slapping/smacking sound after each jump. After a few rounds of this, I'm sure something will break.

I've got as many spacers on my shocks as I'd want and still have some movement over the rough stuff. I figured, putting some M2Ks will help.

I plan on putting a BL system to power the M2Ks, probably a Novak SS.

What do you guys think?

How should it be geared (pinion & spur)?

[B!!!]

There was a guy a while back, Krautenbutter?, that put a Lehner 4200 (I think) brushless motor in his EMT. It was insanely fast. He was using 10 cell batteries. I've never seen anything like it before or since. He had lots of problems with the belts though and last I heard was looking for a better truck to work with. It was a while ago now.

Which BL system are you looking at?

[absoluteracing]

what do you guys think about the XXX4? Do you think it is more durable than an RS4 MT with a BL system in it, like a Novak?

[TrickSpeed]

I doubt the XXX4 would be more durable, since its belts are weaker than the emt's.

But if you are bottoming out on jumps, then you need heavier springs/damping. Blue, maybe even purple springs + 50/60 weight oil.

Back on the M2K subject, brushless is a viable option to power it, since most people say its like a 12 turn, but with mad torque. You could get away with that setup, just take it easy on sharp turns.

[absoluteracing]

cool. Thanks TrickSpeed. I've got extra belts for the MT when I wear the ones in there now :D

[TrickSpeed]

Honestly i think Krauterbutter's problem was that he was running too much motor for the truck, I mean come on, he was running 10 frikkin cells. That means that the 4200 is a LOT more powerful than it would have been if he stuck with 6 cells. He said belts were too weak, but even the Emaxx crowd is breaking stuff with hot brushless motors. Kraterbutter was putting almost 1HP into an emt, what did he expect?

I've seen the video he made, he was pulling wheelies like there was no tomorrow. He had 1/8 tires that hooked up (it takes alot of power to make an emt wheelie, and thats at stock height). So his tires hooked up too well. I'm almost willing to put money down that he wouldn't have had problems if he ran Dirt hawgs, since they would spin instead of biting in and flipping the truck over.

Krautterbutter was also beating 1/8 scale buggies, which run .21 engines. If you are making enough power to beat somthing that much power, in a 10th scale driven by belts, you shouldn't be disappointed when something gives.

I have bent dogbones and broken the diff outdrive on my previous mt, and i think B!!! has too. My belt didn't break, even though metal is stronger it broke first. In conclusion, something has to give eventually when you run that much power, in Krauterbutters case it was the rear belts. But don't worry, the Novak SS won't destroy your truck, it like a 12 turn motor. The EMT can easily handle that. I've run lower with no problems.


On another note, I have a Proline GMC Sierra body mounted on my EMT. The body was designed for an RC10GT, but it fits our truck wonderfully, just barely clearing the rear shock tower. So if you want a new body, now you have more choices.

[t1000driver]

I'm new to the 4WD scene and I have been seriously considering the RS4 MT. Could you guys tell me if that would be a good choice for a second choice-I'm selling my Team Losi XXX-T Sport-I'm not very good at choosing cars/trucks. If you do reccomend it, than could you tell me what kind of electronics, and hop-ups, I should get for just having fun with it, and some racing. If you want to buy my Team Losi, also, tell me and I will see what I can do. Thanks for helping me out!:) My e-mail address is t1000driver@msn.com

[RC Crazy]

WOW, this forum has really grown. This forum used to be dead for a while when I was on it. But other interests dragged me away from the RC car scene (dirt biking is fun) and I kind of left for about 2 years. I just thought I would come to this board to see if this thread had disappeared but it has grown huge. I also have to say that magatron's RS4 MT is awesome, wish mine was like that.

[Shawn300]

whos megatrons rs4mt?

[Shawn300]

Does anyone know anything about the nitroMT2 ?

[RCRACER2471]

this should help: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=140981

[newracer]

does anybody have some kit parts they are willing to part with? I am looking for
front and rear shocks
all the turnbuckles, including steering
rear shock tower
front shock tower/upper bulkhead
axles and dog bones

I am going to convert my rally into a MT or HRT as Megatron says!

email me with what you have and how much you want.

newracer@comcast.net

[B!!!]

Hey there RS4 MT people! I found these pretty cool videos featuring our beloved little EMT. They are pretty good! There's other stuff too, but the EMT movies are the best. Not your typical bashing movies.

http://www.off-thewire.com/

[TrickSpeed]

They need a faster server.


Well after a long time of just having my EMT sitting on the shelf, I've decided to get it running again. Only its going brushless this time. I'm waiting for my order to come in at the LHS. The EMT is getting 1/8 HB Aluminum shocks, a Novak SS brushless system, and an Airtronics MX-3 radio. Should be in either wednesday or friday. I'll report back after i've given it flight a few times.

[B!!!]

Cool! I've been hoping someone would do this. I could even see resurecting my EMT from the shelf if it works out well. Be sure to let us know what gearing works out well too.

[TrickSpeed]

Well I called the lhs today (two days after they said they would have it by, they were supposed to call me when it came in). "Oh, yeah, I've been meaning to call you. We weren't sure if you wanted the new one thats coming out, or the Super sport."

hmm, maybe the fact that they wrote down SS on the order would have tipped them off? But apparently they would rather call me a week and a half later to ask instead of the next business day. "well ok, just wanted to make sure so i can order the right one" :mad:

The guy says he will have it by wednesday. So I'll just give them a visit on weds. to either pick up my brushless system, or get my $95 deposit back. I could've had it overnighted from tower for the same price, but no, i wanted to support the lhs. :(

[metalry101]

So what kind of setups do all of you run in your trucks? I used to have an RS4 MT and for some reason I got rid of it. Now I want another. Just wondering what kind of setups you guys run. I'm probably gonna have 2, one for on-road, and one for off-road, so I'd appreciate your setups for both. Here's my idea

On-Road
-Speed Gems Pro 9x2
-Road Rages or Road Hawgs
-HPI Mesh wheels
-Pro-Match matched 3300's and 3000's (I've already got the 3000's)
-Gearing??????? Help me out here please
-Mtronics 8 turn reversing ESC (waterproof, plus reliable, very sexy)

Off-Road
-Stock or Mild Mod????
-Gladiators (I ran 'em b4, they're the best, hands down)
-Rims?????
-Same batts
-Same ESC
-Gearing??? (Same as b4, suggestions please)

Other Mods
-Bearings (probably Dynamite, my local shop has a set that's like 2 years old, so they'll hook me up)
-CVDs for the front (AHHH, dogbones, ahhh)
-Ti Pins and Turnbuckles
-RPM ball ends
-Stainless screws (If I can find them for the truck)

I think that's about it. I might get that heat sink motor plate too, and CVDs for the rear, and alum. shocks, but the stuff I listed should be good enough to start out w/ I think. Any thoughts, suggestions, etc???

[handyrandyrc]

...Sounds like a good setup to me. Guess the biggest thing is you've GOT to have those bearings. :) Glad to hear the LHS has an old set. They're usually glad to get rid of stuff like that.

I had an RS4 MT I got in a trade, but it was a beater, and I ended up getting rid of it -- too many problems to be worth fixing up. Maybe some day I'll pick up another -- the one time I drove it was a riot -- I had a blast.

[TrickSpeed]

IF your gonna put a 9 turn in, get the heatsink motor plate.

As for rims and tires, i kinda like the black on black look myself.

[handyrandyrc]

I checked out those videos and MAN! That has got to be a testament of how durable these are... :) I lost count of how many times they tumbled end over end then kept on going...

Here is the REAL reason for my post... ANYONE have the RCCA issue where they spent a ton of money on an RS4 MT? It was this year -- I think in the spring/summertime! Maybe in April or May issue? I remember it had been decked out with carbon fiber and had nice Gladiator tires on it. I think they had put in a GM ESC and topped it off with a Trinity reference RC10GT body.

My copy got thrown out! I wonder if someone has that issue would scan those few pages and e-mail to me! Please let me know if you have it and would be willing to do that for me...

handyrandyrcNOSPAM@comcast.net (you know, remove the NOSPAM)
Randy Clements
SLC, UT

[metalry101]

It's the March 2003 issue. I've got it but I don't have a scanner. However, you could just order the whole issue for 5 bux.

TrickSpeed~
Totally agreed on the blackout look and motor plate heat sink.

[handyrandyrc]

Now I've been hearing reports on forums that the RS4 MT is being discontinued!

Can anyone confirm or deny?

I heard from Jeff & Wes - the guys from Houston that did that series of bashing videos with their RS4 MTs.

Randy

[TrickSpeed]

I don't think that would happen unless another truck was coming out to replace it. Besides, I doubt it would make much of a difference. It is already a slow seller, and there are more than plenty parts out, so even if it was discontinued we would be ok for a long time. HPI still makes parts for a kit after it has been discontinued, so there should be no problems.

Cant confirm or deny, maybe you should just call HPI and ask them, or post on their forum.

[BIP024]

I have had my EMT since around 6 months after they came out and i finally decided to pull it off the shelf and start using it again. I have read many places that the EMT has trouble running the Masher 2000s but nobody has ever told of ways to use them or how to gear for them. I guess my question is more about gear ratios than the tires bc once i understand the ratios i can pick a good one for my car. How do u come up with a ratio for a particular car (EMT) and then how to u factor in the motor that you are running as well as the tires to get a proper gear ratio?

Thanks for any input in advance!!

[TrickSpeed]

Using masher 2ks it would be a 19+ turn motor only car. Then you would have to gear low, i'm talking 14/96 here. There was an article in rcca about gear ratios and how they work, but i cant really explain it. Usually the tire is a big part in figuring out the gear ratio, depending on the circumference of the tire (how big the tire is around). Ask in the electric forum and you should get some pretty good answers, just ask about gearing in general and not specifically about the emt.

I did the calculations for m2k's awhile ago, 17 turns seemed like the borderline safe limit, with the heatsink motor plate of course.

My suggestion for a m2k setup. Masher 2000's, ball bearings if you dont have them yet, heatsink motor plate, Trinity P2K motor or the Kyosho 22 turn Magnetic Mayhem. Get pinions from 15-17 teeth, and see which one you like best (more speed or torque).

[BIP024]

Thanks TrickSpeed. I think the motor i have now is a 9 turn Team Kinwald so these tires arent really going to work out. Ill send them back and get some dirt hawgs. Any ideas for dirt hawgs and gearing?? Plus i noticed a while ago you said you had RRP top shafts. Still have them?? If so ill buy one off you. They are almost impossible to find now.

Thanks again.

[TrickSpeed]

9 turn?!? Your truck must be flying! I can't offer any recommendations for a 9 turn and any tire. I've never run anything that low in my emt. And the topshaft is long gone. A good friend has it now. Keep an eye out on ebay, they do pop up every once in a while.

[T3guy]

hey everyone......
i am thinking about getting a emt, looking at the videos they look pretty tough. how much is a set-up that is durable for big jumps w/ out electronics gonna cost? these things dont look to be too expensive and the article RCCA did on it made it look awesome, and the really didnt add to much to it! thanks for any help!
-t3guy

[BIP024]

The Powerline NMT purple aluminum steering DOES work on the EMT with a slight modifcation to the chassis. I will post pix soon.

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by T3guy
hey everyone......
i am thinking about getting a emt, looking at the videos they look pretty tough. how much is a set-up that is durable for big jumps w/ out electronics gonna cost? these things dont look to be too expensive and the article RCCA did on it made it look awesome, and the really didnt add to much to it! thanks for any help!
-t3guy

A big jump setup would just be ally shocks, big tires, and graphite front brace. That would jump just fine. But you can also get RPM HD Ball cups and a heatsink motor plate if you really want. RCCA goes overkill on their project trucks, you dont need most of the stuff they added. Get some spare arms too for when you land wrong. And boil the arms for 10 minutes, it makes them a bit more pliable, and not as likely to break. BTW, if you break the chassis HPI will replace it for free, just send it in to them.

BIP024: Patiently waiting.

[BIP024]

Yeah well i have pictures but i have no idea how to upload them and attach them to this particular forum. any advice?

[BIP024]

I figured it out.

[BIP024]

I figured it out.

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by Megatron
This is my RS4 HRT. HRT is for hybrid racing truck because it's not 100% MT anymore...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p1790a4e309457b5a374e4a57d4972829/fbd84b9c.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p4230b021ef1a1b5dbe6db2c444625f02/fbd8491a.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p2f4daa41228a9fce79d809c121777ad4/fbd84691.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pf175c478eef02a023059714493f7c2d2/fbd8437d.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p07fd99c9d53ac2a8bbf62658c97f91ff/fbd840ea.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pe15a1bb2422503b3d09a766873c667ba/fbd83dd0.jpg

What shocks are those??

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by BIP024
I figured it out.

Ok, now do tell, what has to be done to make it work?

[BIP024]

Sorry i didnt write more, i thought those pix werent posted. But im glad it worked. Anyway, the only modification i had to do was notching out the chassis just a little bit as shown on the second photo. This was done with a dremel tool and was very easy. Obviously the side that attaches to the servo is switched from the NMT but they work fine either way. You should have all the parts you need to put it on between the ones that come with robinson racing kit and the stock stuff you take off. Its was very easy to figure out, the only minor hurdle was shaving off some of the frame but with the graphite chassis brace you shouldnt even notice a difference stiffness-wise. If you have any other questions just ask.

[BIP024]

Here is a better photo of the slight mod to the chassis. The steering works great and there is no slop anymore.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Hey guys,

I own an electrict RS4 MT.

It has a 21-turn Jaguar Racing motor and an LRP Reversing-ESC.

First, a few questions...

I need new shocks, it seems that either the springs or the fluid inside is worn or old...they don't have as much rebound and strength to them...so what springs do you guys recommend? Also, if I have to build them what fluid do you suggest? I want the shocks to absorb bumps and such easily yet I want them to be a little stiff.

Also, what major upgrade should I go for first? I didn't realize that the MT didn't have bearings, so I will definetly get those soon.

and...... are there any little tricks I can do or modify on the MT to improve performance? The biggest problem is the slop in the steering. I also read about puttin lexan or something over a hole to protect the belt or something....can someone clarify?

Finally, (whew!), I want aluminum parts on my MT to give it a good look and improve performance, so what should I get? I was considering the heat sink motor plate thing and some aluminum shock towers....

Theres a new dirt track in my area :D

If anyone lives in the Maineville area right north of Cincinnati, lemme know, maybe we can race sometime :)

[MasterGoa]

Originally posted by BIP024
Here is a better photo of the slight mod to the chassis. The steering works great and there is no slop anymore.

Just wondering if you tried mounting the
cross bar on top like the stock one?

Would this prevent having to trim the chassis?

[BIP024]

Yes i did, and bc the aluminum cross beam is a slightly larger than a turnbuckle, the front belt rubs slightly and i didnt want to take the chance.

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by HPI-Fan-4-Ever
Hey guys,

I own an electrict RS4 MT.

It has a 21-turn Jaguar Racing motor and an LRP Reversing-ESC.

First, a few questions...

I need new shocks, it seems that either the springs or the fluid inside is worn or old...they don't have as much rebound and strength to them...so what springs do you guys recommend? Also, if I have to build them what fluid do you suggest? I want the shocks to absorb bumps and such easily yet I want them to be a little stiff.

Also, what major upgrade should I go for first? I didn't realize that the MT didn't have bearings, so I will definetly get those soon.

and...... are there any little tricks I can do or modify on the MT to improve performance? The biggest problem is the slop in the steering. I also read about puttin lexan or something over a hole to protect the belt or something....can someone clarify?

Finally, (whew!), I want aluminum parts on my MT to give it a good look and improve performance, so what should I get? I was considering the heat sink motor plate thing and some aluminum shock towers....

Theres a new dirt track in my area :D

If anyone lives in the Maineville area right north of Cincinnati, lemme know, maybe we can race sometime :)

Your springs shouldn't be worn out unless you have had the truck a few years. But it sounds like you should go with a heavy spring and 30 or 40 weight shock oil.

The steering is an easy fix. RPM HD Ballcups, ball bearings in the steering, and replace the piano wire joining the two steering bellcranks with a turnbuckle and ball cups. If you want pics to clarify just ask.

Get the aluminum heatsink motor plate (silver or purple). You can also get aluminum steering knuckles and hub carriers, but stay away from aluminum arms. For some more good looks and better performance you can also pick up the graphite rear shock tower and graphite fron brace.

[Biff85ta]

I just bought my rs4 emt about two weeks ago off of ebay and have been having a blast with it ever since. I just finished replacing the stock shocks with some I had off a losi jrx-pro that was thrashed. I wish the bearings from it would fit but none will. I use mine for bashing around the yard and the parking lot at work. It has a rebel esc and a orion rush 17 double and some pro-line road hawgs along with a 21p 96s gearing.

I plan on some ball bearings and a new body as soon as the wallet allows and may do a two speed conversion since the parking lot is where it will be 90% fo the time if not 100%. Any other mods that are a must have??

[metalry101]

Biff85ta~
Sounds like a good plan on the bearings and body, but hold off for a while on the 2 speed. It's pricey, and if you don't have a low turn mod, it won't shift anyways. I'd recommend (spelling?) getting a quality low turn mod (I think that Rebel handles down to a 10 turn?????) first, and trying that out. If you still need more speed after that, you might want to try the 2 speed. Beware though, you can't take the MT off-road w/ the 2 speed, or jump it, because it eliminates the slipper. One other problem is that to get a lower turn mod (say a 12x2 or so) to really move the truck well, you'll want matched packs. The MT doesn't weigh much so you can get away w/ decent sport packs as long as you don't overgear it or anything, but a really low turn mod (10 or lower) will draw too many amps and kill the voltage that most sport packs put out.

[Biff85ta]

The rebel is only good for 16 turns or more so I will probably swap in my Novak 410-m5 and just not have reverse if I decide on a lower wind motor. I know I need to step up a cuople of teeth on the pinion as well as buy some decent packs as mine have seen better days but they came with the truck so I am not complaining. A set of good turnbuckles is definately in order after spending forever lining the truck up last night and wearing the ball ends out in the process. I am super happy with the truck so far and can't wait till after christmas so I will have some money freed up to hop it up some.

[craZaboutRC]

hi guys, ive read like all of the 19 pages of this chat. i have an eletric mt and i want it to go 50mph+ i have a lot of money but i woul dlike some expert advice. right now im still running the stock gearing that came with the 2 speed, but i am also running a speed gems pro 9 t double. about every 2 times i run it up and down the street i strip the second gear. do i have 2 much power?? also what gearing would be insane for this thing if i got a novak brushless ss motor?? i would like to almost be able to pull the front wheels of the ground then it shift into a big pinion and low spur and push the truck to insane speeds. i ahve a lot of option parts on the truck now, and i am getting cvd's soon. Thanks for your input. P.S. i am also running a novak super rooster, i ahev no problems with it over heating or anything, but i would also like to find out if possible where i could get aluminum gears, or if the team losi kevlar gears would hold out. Thanks for all your input, and please email me at andy_024_p@hotmail.com

thanks

[craZaboutRC]

oh yeah, by the way, if you guys know does hpi or anyone make graphite arms??, and what would be the best air resistant body so that when i do speed tests with the local police, that there would be the lowest drag on the truck

thanks again

andy_024_p@hotmail.com

[super did 83]

what is best option for my MT ?????
It possible to run with proline masher 2000??
are you pics of your truck:) :) :)

[microrcdude]

i would look at HPI's most reccomended hop-ups. proline masher 2000's will fit perfectly.

[nascarfreak88]

craZaboutRC- dude man, with lots of money, i would go brushless!!!


oh and who and where can i get these purple motor/brace things that are on this MT????

[nascarfreak88]

craZaboutRC- dude man, with lots of money, i would go brushless!!!


oh and who and where can i get these purple motor/brace things that are on this MT????

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Trickspeed---

If you could post a photo, I would greatly appreciate it.

I recently got a B4 buggy for Christmas, so me and my sister bash the two (quite violently, I might add) and nothing on the MT has broke...even running the 2 cars head on full speed didn't cause any problems (although I don't recommend you do this ;) )

Can someone post a list of every aluminum part available for the MT, or post links to pics of them?

And also, where did you get that one graphite-looking chassis in those pics? That thing looks awesome. I imagine most of those aluminum parts are from HotBodies?

Thanks for the help

[nascarfreak88]

Originally posted by HPI-Fan-4-Ever

Can someone post a list of every aluminum part available for the MT,

DITTO!!!!

[TrickSpeed]

Here is a list of aluminum parts (i may or may not have missed something).

Aluminum arms
Hubs
Steering knuckles
Heatsink motor plate
Side plate (pro 2 part but it fits)
Bulkheads
Rear shock tower
Shocks
CVD's
Differentials
RRP Topshaft
Hingepin braces
Bellcranks (NMT part but fits with slight mod)
Spur gear holder thing (what the spur bolts to)
Alluminum pinions
Screws


Let me go take a pic Hpi-Fan-4-Ever

[TrickSpeed]

Ok, so the pic is from another car, a hpi mini, but it is the same as the emt steering wise. The turnbuckle and ballcups replace the piano wire.

[nascarfreak88]

hey man thans.........

you know the company that make all those parts??? i cant find a dang thing on towerhobbies.com

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

thanks for the pic, that really helped. when you say put in bearings in the steering, do you mean replacing that little silver round thing with a bearing?

i have a 1-piece servo arm in the shape of the 2-arm configuration in the steering, could i just use that instead of two? the 2-piece thing is causing a lotta slop in the steering...
since the 1=piece arm isn't as thick as the other 2 stacked together, which would leave some space on the column thing it's on, could i just put bearings/washers to compensate?

[TrickSpeed]

Aluminum arms (not sure but i think it was megatech)
Hubs (HPI, Integy, Megatech)
Steering knuckles (HPI, Integy, Megatech)
Heatsink motor plate (HPI)
Side plate (pro 2 part but it fits) (HPI)
Bulkheads (HPI)
Rear shock tower (Megatech, Trinity, Wolfgang, lots of companies)
Shocks (Most shocks will fit)
CVD's (MIP, HPI)
Ball Differentials (RRP, HPI)
RRP Topshaft (RRP, discontinued)
Hingepin braces (HPI)
Bellcranks (NMT part but fits with slight mod) (Megatech)
Spur gear holder thing (what the spur bolts to) (HPI, RRP)
Alluminum pinions (RRP)
Screws (just about everyone makes them)
Turnbuckles (Lunsford)

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Hey everyone,

I got some JB-Weld that I was going to use for my RS4-3, but I decided to use it for the MT. I took the steering arm that is made up of 2 pieces stacked together, and I glued em together. I let the Weld set about 5 minutes (just enough for it to dry) and it removed any slop in the steering that I had before. Now the 2 piece thing acts as one, so it isn't loose, and it isn't wobbly when I back up. It came loose, though, so I put some more on and it has set over night. Its awesome!

I just thought I'd tell ya cuz this can help your steering while you save up for those costly aluminum parts. And, if it ever loosens up, you can just reapply it. Give it a try, just be careful not to put too much on it, since the arm(s) are located so close to the steering servo, if you use too much then the arm(s) will rub the servo, and then you would have to cut some of it off.

Just a little tip I found helpful ;)

[TrickSpeed]

So you glued your servo-saver together? Maybe you should have just tightened up the spring for it instead.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

I tried tightening the screw, but that doesn't help with anything. It's the 2 arms that are the problem, since they are stacked but it is sloped where they meet, the top one slides back and forth even without the bottom one moving (or vise versa, not sure which one is connected to servo). I tried everythihg possible so that the arm wouldn't slide and be sloppy, but it wouldn't help. So I simply glued the 2 arms together so that they always move as 1 arm, and now I have no slop at all, and the one arm can't slide back and forth on the other.

I just mentioned this in case anyone else had this problem, since I had found a solution (although not sure how long the bond will hold).

If I tightened the screw, it just made it where the arms wouldn't move period.....so glueing them was my only option I could find to remove the slopin the steering, and it worked wonderfully.

[Megatron]

Originally posted by nascarfreak88
craZaboutRC- dude man, with lots of money, i would go brushless!!!


oh and who and where can i get these purple motor/brace things that are on this MT????

The motor mount/brace set is from a Pro 2. Both parts fit the EMT with about five minutes of filing. They're probably both still available on HPI's website. If not, Tower probably has them.

[Megatron]

Originally posted by microrcdude
What shocks are those??

They're 1/8 scale shocks from a Duratrax MT.

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by HPI-Fan-4-Ever
I tried tightening the screw, but that doesn't help with anything. It's the 2 arms that are the problem, since they are stacked but it is sloped where they meet, the top one slides back and forth even without the bottom one moving (or vise versa, not sure which one is connected to servo). I tried everythihg possible so that the arm wouldn't slide and be sloppy, but it wouldn't help. So I simply glued the 2 arms together so that they always move as 1 arm, and now I have no slop at all, and the one arm can't slide back and forth on the other.

I just mentioned this in case anyone else had this problem, since I had found a solution (although not sure how long the bond will hold).

If I tightened the screw, it just made it where the arms wouldn't move period.....so glueing them was my only option I could find to remove the slopin the steering, and it worked wonderfully.

Well i hope you dont hit anything solid, because you will break your servo gears when you hit a wall or curb. I used to have the same problem, but if the thumbscrew which pushes on the spring backs out you should use threadlock so it wont loosen during a run.

Buy a servo saver, it'll pay for itself the first time you hit something. Just trying to help.

Edit: Are you sure the bell cranks have all of the bushings in place? Something you might want to look into.

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by Megatron
The motor mount/brace set is from a Pro 2. Both parts fit the EMT with about five minutes of filing. They're probably both still available on HPI's website. If not, Tower probably has them.

Looks like you have the aluminum center bulkhead too. Avalible on Buy HPI only, IIRC. But then again its no use in a emt chassis.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Trickspeed,

Lol, I'm not sure about anything on mine. It was my sister's and when my stepdad bought it we decided to build it for her. I built everything dealing with the motor and most of the front bulkhead while he took care of the drivetrain/steering......its funny that the shocks are worn out and we've only had the thing less than 6 months and we run it a few times a month, I think he assembled them wrong....and the steering too, since it was so stinkin wobbly, and he caused the original ESC (about a 150 dollar one) to fry since he set it up wrong........so I have no idea about missing bushings and what-not.

Could you tell me all what is on that column the arms are on?? I think i have the 2 arms, the silver thing that holds the screw from the top, a spring, another thing that holds a screw from the bottom, and a round collar-looking thing that sits below the spring (I misplaced the instruction manual) Can anyone tell me if I am missing something on it?

[TrickSpeed]

Shocks dont really wear out, maybe yours is leaking shock fluid, and enough has leaked to affect the damping.

The instuction manual is posted on hpi's website www.hpiracing.com

In the kits section, click on emt, it somewhere in there.

[badguy1971]

Hi, I just got into this hobby about 3 weeks ago.
I first bought an Evader ST, it got me hooked and a week later I picked up a used RS4 MT.
I absolutely love my EMT, such a neat truck and I'm learning alot.
Right now I have the aluminum shocks from my evader on my EMT.
I have a 12 turn double in it with stock gears 48 pitch 96 tooth spur gear and 22 tooth pinion.
The truck is really fast but I want it to take off better.
Would a 19 or 17 pinion work well with my 96 spur and 12T double wind motor to give me more bottom end, or will it be too low?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

as for if it works well, i'm not sure, but going down to 19 or even 17 would definitely give it more punch off the line...i own 2 electric cars (one being the MT) and I never have had trouble with gearing at all...i always just run the stock...but if your current 22 doesn't seem to make the motor hot and it runs nice and smooth then i'm sure the 19 would work fine, just make sure after running it around you check on the motor so it isn't overgeared (or undergeared????:confused: ) , as for the 17, be careful if you wanna try that...for a powerful motor like yours, i think 17 is too much...

where'd Trickspeed go? :( i'm sure he could tell you exactly

[badguy1971]

thanks for the help man.
I love the car, its really fast, I just want it to take off like a rocket.
I have an 18t pinion on my evader, so I'll just try them all I guess.
I also plan on getting some dirt hawgs, so I may just wait till then so I dont dissapoint myself with finding a great setup now with the stock tires and then having it be different with the dirt hawgs.
I also remember reading that the EMT doesnt like a 17t pinion, why is that?... or is it not true?
Thanks again.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

i don't know why it wouldn't "like" 17t pinions, i only said to be careful cuz you have a low-turn motor in it.....who knows.....oh btw did you replace all the bushings with bearings? if you still have bushings, replace em and your truck will accelerate even faster and provide a slightly longer run-time, plus be easier on your drivetrain.....just something to check for...

[badguy1971]

yeah, just last week I installed bearings. Also replaced the axles. new axles seem to make the dogbones rattle much more, must be less gunk in the cups.

[TrickSpeed]

Well gearing is a compromise between acceleration and top speed. So if you want more of one, you will have to give up some of the other. I could give you a number, but the emt is weird about motors, some work really great geared high, and some will just die at the same gearing. But if you want more punch, then yes, you would want a smaller pinion. I'd honestly recommend you buy the robinson racing pinion 6 pack, you get 6 different pinions to try out different gearing options and find which one works best. And it works out to 2 bucks per pinion, a good deal for rrp pinions. This way you can try out 19 and 17 tooth pinions and decide which one you would rather use. And you will have suitable pinions after you change tires as well.

RRP Pinion 6 pack odd (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX35&P=0)

RRP Pinion 6 pack Even (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX34&P=0)

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

if you can find them (and I'm sure they make 'em) get a set of MIP CVD's......better than dogbones IMO...and you say that your dogbones are giving you trouble....if you do get them put heat-shrink wrap over them and hold 'em over a lighter for awhile...there you go! dirtproof CVD's!

[badguy1971]

sounds like a plan, thanks guys

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

can someone give me an estimate of a brushless motor+esc? i can't seem to find a price, although I saw one on eBay (a novak) and he had the Buy It Now set at $235!!! Please don't tell me this is the average price of one...

Also, can someone also tell me how much the graphite brace for an MT is? I saw it on hpi's site but I can't find a price on that either...

and one last question, i need to replace the rear diff, what should i get instead of replacing it with another stock one? how would something like a solid axle work?

thanks!

[badguy1971]

From what I've seen, thats an average price for novac brushless,
They come with a sort of computer to regulate the speed I think that why the hi cost.

[metalry101]

No, no computer, but that's how much they cost. What he is referring to however is the fact that they are limited in performance to a certain degree. Novak designed the system to be comparable to a 10 turn mod, not so it would be crazy stupid fast like say Hacker Brushless. The Novak is a much more refined unit, and is much better for racing. The 10 turn equivalency (is that a word???) makes it perfect for most mod racing classes, and therefore, giving no advantage powerwise, over people who don't have that kind of coin. Obviousy you don't have to cut the com and put new brushes in it all the time, that's the draw. It's a very low maintenence setup, especially when compared to brushed low turn mods. As for where to find one cheaper, good luck. I think I've seen them for 220 on sale before, but you won't find a new one any lower. You might try used, like Ebay or something, but that's still typically pretty pricey.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

:( i think i will pass on one for now...and what do you mean by "crazy stupid fast"? is that insanely fast or just sarcastic for that it sucks?

[metalry101]

Well, most BL systems (not Novak's) require a reciever pack since they can't design a controller w/ BEC, so in that sense they do suck. But when referring to speed, I definately meant insanely fast.

[badguy1971]

Alright all you Dirt Hawg guys.
What motor wind/gearing are you guys running with the dirt hawgs?
I have a 12 turn double with stock gears and all I can seem to do is slip the slipper?...it is cranked down pretty tight.
I'm guessing I need to gear down, I have a 17 and a 19 tooth pinions but they are too "short" to reach the spur properly.
opinions needed
Thanks

[badguy1971]

turns out I broke my topshaft pin, hence all the slipping.
replaced with a piece of allen wrench I cut, all is well

[badguy1971]

My EMT

http://www3.sympatico.ca/hayko/EMT.jpg

[badguy1971]

well, I lost drive to the front wheels, the little geat/pully that drives the front belt doesnt spin with the shaft, I probably broke the pin that holds it stationary.
Time to tear it apart.

[cbrfreak]

Well, I noticed a couple of days ago that HPI put the Electric MT into the discontinued category.:confused:

[badguy1971]

does that mean that aftermarket parts will soon dissappear?

[Megatron]

Originally posted by cbrfreak
Well, I noticed a couple of days ago that HPI put the Electric MT into the discontinued category.:confused:

Damn. I figured it was just a matter of time...:(