HPI RS4 MT

[Rebelboy]

Maybe they will come out w/ a new updated version like they did w/ the NMT and Nitro Rush. I hope so cuz i was kinda lookin at gettin an EMT.

[orbitron]

Well, I noticed a couple of days ago that HPI put the Electric MT into the discontinued category.:confused:

I was looking into 4wd offroad and was thinking seriously about this truck. I want a new one this season. Do you think they're replacing it with a shaft driven one like the MT2?

[BCat125]

Are you sure that they will even replace it with a new version. It is a great and very durable truch but are there any classes you could even run it in. I dont think it would keep up with xxx-4s. I would love to see an updated version of it. My mt has been very reliable for me over the years.

[TrickSpeed]

Seems like HPI is steadily moving towards shaft driven vehicles, look for most fo the belt driven models to go into discontiunued status in the future. Besides, the slug like sales of the emt didn't help it either. You should still be able to get parts for a long time; you can still get mini parts on buy hpi and it was discotinued years ago.

I don't think they will come out with a replacement, unless it is a 2 motor maxx type truck, or a racing 2wd truck.

Look for aftermarket parts prices to drop in the future due to this.

[craZaboutRC]

hey guys, ive been in this forum before. I have an emt its awesome. Im running 7cells of the trinity ultra metal 3000nimh cells and a novak super rooster esc. I have a 9 turn speed gems pro double that i was running with i believe a 22 pinion and the stock spur and i melted the end can of teh motor. does anyone have any info on gearing. should i go up or down on the pinion?? or up / down of the spur?? im also running street tires so not much rubber to push thanks for any info

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

craZ: first, take off a cell :( too much voltage and you can fry a motor, just like when lightning strikes a power line and it blows out light bulbs...unless you have ran numerous other motors on 7 cells..also, for that turn of motor i believe you would need to gear down, go down to maybe 19 or so on your pinion....i'd check elsewhere for gearing but i am pretty sure it is overgeared....

the 7-cell setup is typically used for brushless systems since they can easily handle the power...hope this helps!

oh, and i'm sure you have this taken care of but people forget: make sure your motor/batteries/esc have proper air flow over them, heat is electronics #1 enemy!

[craZaboutRC]

ok thanks, ya there is no under body and there are slots in the chassis for colling in the motor, im actually gonna get a new revolutions 9 turn with the aluminum end bell, so no more melting and ill have to gear down thanks for the info.

[metalry101]

I'd go lower than a 19 tooth. I'd suggest something like 15 maybe. A 9 turn is gonna be churning out rpms like crazy, so you don't need to gear real high to make it move. Plus the lower gearing will give it some get up and go off the line.

[cbrfreak]

I'd go lower than a 19 tooth. I'd suggest something like 15 maybe.
How do you get a 15 tooth pinion to fit without the belt rubbing on the motor can?

[metalry101]

I'm not sure that you do. Back when I had an MT, I ran Masher 2K's sometimes, so I had to run like a 12 tooth, it rubs, but it's not too bad. If you're really concerned about it, buy a bigger spur gear instead.

[Falco]

hay all, I'm planing on setting my EMT for on-road use only, and plan on putting in a new motor (9 to 12 turn), but I'm not sure what I should be running for gears, can someone please reccomend some or send me to a decent primer on gearing so i could figure it out myself.

Thx

[metalry101]

9-12 eh? That truck should fly! As for gearing...I haven't had an MT4 for a while (I did just trade for one though, hopefully I'll have it in about a week!). I'd guess you'd probably want to start out at about a 16 tooth or so, maybe even a little lower w/ a 9 or 10 turn. That's just a guess pretty much, but I think it's probably a good place to start. I wanna say the kit comes w/ a 22 tooth, but I really can't remember. I'd say go at least 4 teeth lower than what came w/ the kit.

[Falco]

what do you guys think of Duratrax's Intelispeed 8 turn reversable ESC? I don't plan on racing, just bashing and going fast!

[metalry101]

It's great stuff, I have one actually, works great.

[Falco]

O.K., according to the EMT manual, the stock gearing (22 pinion and 96 spur), provide a final drive ratio for a 12-13 turn motor. Associated, want close to the same final drive ratio for their 10 turn KR. Is 22/96 gearing O.K. to run with a 10T motor? I've read a few posts that say differently.

[metalry101]

Ehh, might try it I guess. I'd go a little lower personally, but you could try it out and see how hot the motor gets, and how the truck performs. I'd think you'll probably be left wanting something more in terms of acceleration, which the shorter gearing will give you, as well as longer runtimes, but maybe not.

[Falco]

well, I picked up some pinions today, an 19 and 24 tooth. Seems to go faster with the 19 tooth, but that's dosen't seem to jive the RC Zone's Calcaulator. But if it goes faster, who really cares if it makes sence, right!

[metalry101]

It does makes sense. You don't have the power to push the taller gears. Here's an example. My Jeep is stick. 4th gear is higher (lower numerically) than 3rd. However, say I'm going up this big hill. If you punch the numbers, I should go much faster in fourth. In practice, I know I don't because my Jeep doesn't make enough horsepower to push me up the hill. So I drop it to third, get more power (because it multiplies the torque more) and accelerate up the hill. Just like you don't try going up a hill on your bike in the gear that you have it in to haul ass. You go to a lower gear which multiplies the torque more, allowing you to actually go up the hill. Works the same way with you truck, but instead of a multiple speed transmission, it just has different gearing options.

[nascarfreak88]

Has anyone gone brushless yet?? will the belts hold up???

[creep]

Is there any way to reinforce the rear shock tower?

[microrcdude]

you can buy a carbon fiber sheet, and make a plate that goes between your shock tower and the rear bulkheads

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

well, one thing to do that helps transfer pressure to both sides of the tower is to take the screw that holds the shock on and put a nut on both sides. You more than likely will need a longer screw. It should look something like this:
*!()*
*=nut, ()=shock tower, !=shock

I know its cheesy but you should get the idea. This makes it so the compression is more evenly distributed to the shock tower, instead of it being all on one side. This is especially helpful when landing hard jumps. It might not make sence, but I have yet to break a shock tower after doing this.

Also, boiling the a-arms for 10 minutes makes them very strong, i dunno if this would work for the shock tower.

[creep]

Thanks, I think I will try boiling and longer screws.

[coreyfro]

Hey!

I just joined the ranks of RS4 MT owners, and since it is a dieing breed, I wanted to write a list of replacement parts and hop ups.

I am especially interested in after market replacement parts or parts in common with other cars (Nitro MT, Rush, or other RS4's) so current and future RS4 MT geeks will have a way to keep their car healthy and running.

I don't quite know how to go about this, but what I want to do is list the parts, and what part(s) they replace, then generate an index that people can look down, search by stock part, see hopup, see image of hopup, and little blurbs.

Who is with me? It is worth it!

People with experience with certian hop ups, write a blurb about it, tell us why you got it, why its good, how to use it (if it is not self explaniory) etc, etc.

I just started a new thread, but before it is moderated, i thought we'd hash out the basics of this project.

Don't start sending parts to this forum, just keep watching http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=315 for the "RS4 MT Salvation Project"

Thanks guys!

P.S. where is this from? And where can I get this chassis?

http://www.coreyfro.com/~sennyo/919.jpg

It looks to die for! I'd rather get a new chassis than buy the brace and stick with the tub. Opinions? Idea's? Insults?

I'm assmuing its an RS4 chassis. but. who cares! it's badarse!

[pedeman]

im thinking on getting one... i already have a traxxas stampede, and im wondering if i wanna get one of these... i think i am, but im not sure...

[metalry101]

It'd be a good buy Pedeman. I'm biased because I never really liked my 'Pede all that much, but in my opinion the RS4 MT is one of the funnest trucks on the market. Very capable and cheap to mod (kinda like the 'Pede). Ahh, the days of runnin simple trucks. LOL, now that I run an XTM Mammoth (it's brand new!!!!) and a heavily modded E-Maxx, I really appreciate the beauty of the smaller, more simple vehicles. My Mammoth is closer though. It's actually really simple, for the most part.

[AJC9]

Yea .. go for it .. I love mine .. It'll go anywhere I want to .. finally took it to my local BMX track after just bashing around the parking lot at work .. one of the little track rat kids that was there said "Dat thing gots mad sick hops !!" after I cleared one of the doubles .. thats good right ?? :confused: ;) .. I got two and a half packs through it before broken body posts (dude on a cruiser didn't see it and ran it over) and a shredded real belt ended my day .. new belt on, body posts replaced, packs recharged .. I'm ready for more ..

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

hey guys, i'm glad to see this thread still alive and kickin....over the weekend i installed a woven graphite front brace and rear shock tower, and now it feels like a whole new truck.....what other parts can be replaced with the woven graphite? also is it safe to get a hd diff for the front if i am off-roading with it? i thought i saw somewhere that its not good for the diff......thanks!

[AJC9]

The front brace and the shock tower are all I've got in woven graphite on mine .. the only other woven graphite part I can think off of the top of my head it the belt tensioner .. I'm running the stock diffs in mine and they seem fine .. I just clean and repack them with fresh diff lube every now and then .. the hop-up thats gotten me the most speed was going to Deans connectors on my packs and speed control ..

[creep]

Is there any way to reduce the slop in the steering? I already replaced the wire piece with a turnbuckle but there's still some slop. I want to run my Masher 2ks but they just amplify the problem.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

here's a tip that will remove almost all of the slop.....on the steering arm that your servo is connected to there is a little bluish colored spring...it looks like the spring on the slipper clutch but it is a little bigger.....take that out, get 2 pairs of strong pliers, and pull on the spring to make it elongated....i know it sounds risky but the spring is very stiff, so you won't break it....test it out after making it longer......it should push up on the arms more, but not enough to make it too tight...problem solved! also the graphite front brace will help also for some reason


also in the picture that coreyfro posted....where in the heck can i get the aluminum motor/drivetrain mount???????

[AJC9]

also in the picture that coreyfro posted....where in the heck can i get the aluminum motor/drivetrain mount???????

That chasis is a pro 2 ( if I remember right ) and all the purple aluminum parts are pro 2 hop ups .. the pro 2 and the EMT share quite a few comon parts .. I think there may be a list of which ones somewhere in this thread ..

[MTkid7]

Hey guys.. im new to this forum. Joined because i saw RS4 MT's beign talked bout for 3 years.lol. Ok but i have a NMT about 10 month old im getting rid of cuz i have no more time for the hole nitro thing. But i am really concidering getting the RS4 MT. i ahve a set up listed... i was just wondering if you guys could guide me a little bit on wat to get.

RS4 MT= 150.00
DuraTrax Streak Forward/Brake Hi-Frequency ESC J= 40.00
Hitec Aggressor 2-Channel AM/1 HS-311 Servo= 45.00
Trinity D5 Motor 12T Double Flat Wire= 58.00
Trinity Golden No Solder Leads (2) = 5.00

Now this is just to get it running.. latter i will get a new servo, metal gear. But do u guys think its a good setup for now and i am also wondering how fast it might go. Thanks
MTkid7

[cbrfreak]

I doubt you will be able to run the 12t motor in it... belt clearance issues prevent proper gearing.

[MTkid7]

So wat do u think i should get then?

[cbrfreak]

The best I could do with mine is a Speedgems Pro Amber 17 turn geared 18/90. It's a little overgeared and the belt rubs a tiny bit on the motor can. btw, I run Gladiator tires on it. Freakin' AWSOME tires! I have a vid clip on my site of my MT running...
http://home.comcast.net/~cbrfreak/

[MTkid7]

Your car looks pretty fast man.. any idea on the top speed. But if you dont mind me asking.. y does the motor can hit if they are all 540 sized motors?

[cbrfreak]

It's not nearly as fast as nitro! :p I would guess around 23 to 25 mph. When you get a lower turn motor you have to get a smaller pinion to match the motor... A smaller pinion means having to slide the motor closer to the spur which slides it closer to the rear belt. If I could find and fit a larger spur gear to it then I could fit a lower turn motor but I can't.
I hope this helps. btw, I don't want to scare you away from buying one... It's my favorite truck!

[MTkid7]

I have a mini-t that goes 28mph..lol how funny would it be to see it beat me soon to be RS4 MT.. i would make a motor that would fit.. hey if worse comes to worse.. i will save my pennies and buy a brushless..lol.. im supprised u cant find a bigger spur.. thast my mission cuz i atleast want a 15t..lol

[MTkid7]

HAHA wow shouldnt of said that.. im having truoble finding a 70..lol were in the wordl did u find a 90??

craZaboutRC
Member
 
Join Date: 08-25-2002
Location: New Berlin, WI
Posts: 26



rs4 emt
------------------------------------------------------------------------
hi guys, ive read like all of the 19 pages of this chat. i have an eletric mt and i want it to go 50mph+ i have a lot of money but i woul dlike some expert advice. right now im still running the stock gearing that came with the 2 speed, but i am also running a speed gems pro 9 t double. about every 2 times i run it up and down the street i strip the second gear. do i have 2 much power?? also what gearing would be insane for this thing if i got a novak brushless ss motor??..... How is u running a 9t

[cbrfreak]

90 comes stock on the MT...

[metalry101]

MTkid7~
K, I'd reccomend a better ESC. That thing is probably ginormous and not very smooth. It's very old. I'd suggest one of Duratrax's new models, the Intellispeed series. I've used the 8 turn reversing myself. Excellent stuff. Also, you can run a 12 turn. Ya, it will rub the belt. So what? It'll drag a bit, you'll wear the belt out more often, etc, but it'll still run. Also, that's a lotta motor, so it's gonna need a lot of battery. I'd suggest running quality cells (Sanyo 2400s, 3000HV's, GP3300's, etc). Matched packs would be ideal for a motor that low, but at the very least, get the best sport packs you can find (the Trinity's w/ the Panasonic or Sanyo cells, even at 1400 or 1500 mah are good). As for that motor, I'd save the money. D5's are very sexy motors, but a Speed Gems Pro will still fly, and costs half as much. That extra 30 bux would pay for the difference in the speed control price. Also, the No Solder leads aren't the best way to go. They're not bad, but a motor that fast is gonna draw a lotta amps, and you're probably gonna melt those. I'd suggest Deans connectors. I promise, you'll never melt those. And, one more thing, the radio you chose isn't bad, I have the one that came w/ my Mammoth, but for only 20 bux more, you could get the Futaba 2PL. Definately not a must, but for only 20 bux more, if you've got the money, it's definately worth it. As for the Novak SS, that's not gonna be any faster than a good 9 turn. Lotz less maintence (sp?) though. Hope this helps...

[creep]

90 comes stock on the MT...

:confused: Mine came with a 96.

[cbrfreak]

You are right creep! 96 is stock... That's what I have.

[MTkid7]

You see.. the thing about gettin a 8T ready ESC is that if i cant put lower then a 17 without rubbing then y upgrade for no reason??

[metalry101]

Like I said though, belt rubbing isn't the end of the world. Also, they have other models. They have a 12 turn and I think a 16 turn model. I just said that I've run the 8 turn reversing (there's an 8 turn racing w/o reverse as well). I didn't suggest you buy that exact one.

12 Turn (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXT9&P=ML)
16 Turn (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXT8&P=ML)

[MTkid7]

OOO ok.. yea i was looking at those and there lik 80 bucks.. and now that i look the streak is only like 5 bucks less then the intellispeed.. thats the original one i ahd on my list because it had reverse.. but i dont want reverse.. messes the motor a little

[metalry101]

All of the Intellispeeds w/ reverse have reverse lockout. Just set that up and you're ready to rip w/ forward only action!

[MTkid7]

I found a Futaba radio system with a reciever.. steering servo.. and a novak explorer esc... anygood?? But the Novak doesnt say wat limit it is.. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBJA6**&P=7

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

is there something like longer dogbones that i can buy for the front? i was having so much trouble with them stayin in that i had to make the truck 2wd, and now it doesn't turn near as good......what abou CVD's, how do those work? and does someone have any idea where i can find that pro 2 aluminum motor/tranny mount?????????

[MTkid7]

If they are falling out near the gear box then yes cvds would help.. but if there falling out by the wheel i dunno if it will.. i believe the dog bones are 52mm .. maybe try something a lil bigger.. theres these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUL54&P=7

[metalry101]

CVDs or dogbones are the way to go. HPI sells both, MIP sells CVDs.

As for the Explorer II, 15 turn limit.

[MTkid7]

Man good 15t motors are hard to find.. atleast on tower

[metalry101]

Trinity Speed Gems Pro (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUP8&P=0)

As good of a value as you're gonna find in a 15 turn. If having a 15 turn isn't so important to you, I'd suggest maybe trying one of the new 19 turn race motors. Probably as fast, and maybe w/ some new tech, instead of old race mod tech that's filtered it's way down.

[MTkid7]

See i wanted a 12T with a streak esc but i think u said it was old technolegy.. ill prolly end up gettin an intellispeed and a futaba with ust a servo no esc

[cbrfreak]

I have MIP cvd's all around on my MT and it works great...
Now about the belt rubbing. The MT doesn't cool the motor very well because of the fact that it sits behind the battery pack and if you add drag in the drivetrain and friction on the can its self, you're just asking for a cooked motor.

[MTkid7]

So wat should i do?? Get a bigger motor like u said..well 17

[cbrfreak]

It's pointless for me to tell you what to do... All I can do is tell you about my experiences with the MT and what works for me. In the end, you have to make the choice for yourself.

[MTkid7]

This is my final list.. a mix of wat i want and you guys said would work..

PROJECT RS4 MT
RS4 MT= 150.00
Trinity P-94 16T Double rpm Motor =53.00
DuraTrax IntelliSpeed 16T Mild-Modified Reverse ESC = 45.00
W.S. Deans 2-Pin Ultra Plug =3.00
W.S. Deans Silicone Wire 12-Gauge Pink/Blue 2'= 6.00
Futaba 2PH 2-Channel AM/1 S3003 Servo =45.00
Custom 3000 Batterys (2)= 28.00
TOTAL=330.00

[cbrfreak]

Don't forget the pinion gear! ;)

[TrickSpeed]

...and you really should get some bearings to replace the bushings.

[B4SnAkE]

2 things
first dont get the P-94 16 turn, The hellfire stock is a much better motor. Considering battery life and other important factors.
Secound, dose anyone know of how to make a shaft drivin mt, but keep it electric. I made on with a nitro mt but the motor stand world keep wolbing. also there was almost no room for the battery. HPI should make a shaft drivin Electric mt.

[MTkid7]

AhH this is way to confusing..lol

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

i bought some bearings the same size as the bushings (i even looked up the size) but the diff is too loarge to slide the bearing onto and the bearing is too large to fit into the bulkhead! help me! what exact size and brand will work without a bunch of grinding and fitting!

[MTkid7]

Ok ehres my big question.. wat brushless motor can i put in my MT.. will any of the himax .. lehner motors work.. http://www.b-p-p.com/Himaxmotors.htm theres the himax motors.. they are cheaper

[coreyfro]

You might wait for the Mamba 80 to come out this fall. It will be a very powerful, very inexpensive, geared completely for cars, brushless+ESC kit. Lehner grade power, Novak grade simplicity and cost.

The Mamba 25 brushless+esc kit will be out very soon, but this is for the RS4 Micro and the Losi Mini-t. You can see them in action here.

http://www.b-p-p.com/videos/mamba.wmv

Ok ehres my big question.. wat brushless motor can i put in my MT.. will any of the himax .. lehner motors work.. http://www.b-p-p.com/Himaxmotors.htm theres the himax motors.. they are cheaper

[coreyfro]

Doesn't look like I have generated any interest with this project, or people are waiting for the moderators to open up the other thread. Sadly, it is up to us to support our cars and if we don't, the eMT will die quickly and quietly.

I am thinking of another place to host the Salvation project. If anyone can aid me here, it would help us all greatly.

[Falco]

90 comes stock on the MT...


I thought 96t was stock...

[Falco]

I found a Futaba radio system with a reciever.. steering servo.. and a novak explorer esc... anygood?? But the Novak doesnt say wat limit it is.. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBJA6**&P=7

15 turn limite on the Expolrer 2, not a bad ECS, it's what I'm running now. Dosen't like water much, but never had any real trouble... although after i got it wet the first time, and before I reset it, it did get stuck on WOT, lots-o-fun!!

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

coreyfro,

i am interested in the project, but there isn't much that i can do.....the emt is an awesome truck and i would hate to see it dissappear.....and would someone check on the stock gearing instead of going back and forth about what it is! sheesh lol

[cbrfreak]

I just checked the manual... The stock gearing is 22/96

[cbrfreak]

Doesn't look like I have generated any interest with this project, or people are waiting for the moderators to open up the other thread. Sadly, it is up to us to support our cars and if we don't, the eMT will die quickly and quietly.

I am thinking of another place to host the Salvation project. If anyone can aid me here, it would help us all greatly.
It really sounds like a lot of work to create and maintain a database for hop-ups etc. for the MT...

[creep]

I found out the bearings for the Mini-T fit into the left side steering arm perfectly. I replaced the 2 plastic bushings with the bearings and it took out a lot of slop! The bearings are 4x11x3mm.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

whats a good stock motor that will last forever but still be fast? i'm a low-maintenance kinda guy, and i need a new one (actually, 2 )...preferable i don't wanna change the gearing i have (stock)....thanks!

[cbrfreak]

Long lasting and fast seldom ever get mentioned in the same breath... I think I would try a Kyosho Magnetic Mayhem. They go for around $20 each at Tower Hobbies. I am running a good motor that lasts fairly well. It's a Trinity Speedgems Pro Amber. It's a 17t and mine is geared 18/96. If you go for that motor (around $30~$35) just order a new 18 tooth pinion when you order your motor. A new pinion will set you back about $3

[metalry101]

My favorite stock motor is the P2K2. It stays ice cool when running and makes lotza power. Very good motor.

[Falco]

Just put a GPS on my EMT, 14.3 mph with a MOT 17x2 and 19/96 gearing, everthing else stock. My batteries (and motor) have been abused, so I might be able to hit 15+ with the new 3000 NiMH I orderded

[metalry101]

14???? Say it ain't so. The best Radio Shack cars will run about 15. Tell me your GPS is freakin heavy or something, because that is ungodly slow.

[cbrfreak]

14???? Say it ain't so. The best Radio Shack cars will run about 15. Tell me your GPS is freakin heavy or something, because that is ungodly slow.
It could be worse... It could be 14 KPH! :)

[metalry101]

LOL, true, very true.

[MTkid7]

woowww.. my mini-t goes 28..lol

[creep]

Mine hit 24.5 MPH with a beat up 14t Speed Gems 2 and old 2400 batteries that have probably never been charged or discharged properly. The very next run my motor went bye-bye :mad: I was also running Masher 2000s and stock gearing (22/96) and the steering was sloppy so I couldn't get a good straight solid run.

[metalry101]

ROFLMAO

14 turn w/ stock gearing = fried motor
Any motor w/ stock gearing and Masher 2K's = fried motor
14 turn w/ Masher 2K's and any gearing = most likely fried motor

ROFLMAO even more. No wonder the motor fried. That's craziness.

[Falco]

Well, I guess I'm got some fixin' to do then!

I had been running stock gears for the last year wit the motor I have, so I don't think it's in the best of condition, and I'm planing on an upgrade as soon as i get the cash. I should probably get some diff lube too, bearings would be nice...

[creep]

Yeah I know but the Mashers just look too cool not to run them :D The 14t was the only motor I had left and I was jonesin' too run my MT so I put it in. Now I've got a Speed Gems Pro 14t and a 24t pinion and I put the stock wheels w/Dirt Hawgs back on.

[creep]

I found out the bearings for the Mini-T fit into the left side steering arm perfectly. I replaced the 2 plastic bushings with the bearings and it took out a lot of slop! The bearings are 4x11x3mm.

Sorry. the bearings are actually 4x8x3mm :o

[yabe209]

hey i got a smokin mt that has a .21 in it...if anyone wants info on conversions and mods then post me

[metalry101]

This is the electric HPI MT forum. You might have a bit more interest in something like that in the Nitro MT forum. ;)

[metalry101]

So, who else has been out abusing their EMT lately? I just got back from launching mine. The new 11 turn helps it jump a ton higher and farther than the stock motor did. :D Lotza hard impacts too, both on the front and rear of the truck. The only casualties were the body and the left rear shock. Oh well, I need stiffer springs and thinner oil anyways.

[cbrfreak]

I abuse mine on a regular basis.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

i'm with cbrfreak :cool:

i'm fixin to put mine through lotsa "surgery", new motor, tires, and body



what is the part number(s) for a front belt and diff assembly? i need a new one, would a hd front one way be safe for offroading?

[cbrfreak]

I recently did a MAJOR rebuild of mine. I wouldn't use a oneway bearing anywhere on the MT. Too much money to be breaking them every month.

[metalry101]

I think a one-way could hold up, depending on how you drive. I think landing a jump w/ the throttle pegged could be kinda hard on it, as could some other things, but they survive hard racing in on-road. You could try it, what's the worst that could happen? Nuke it and have to swap the stock diff back in?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

can someone gimme the part# for the front diff and front belt?

[metalry101]

A244 for the front belt. 8.59 @ Tower

A435 for the diff case. 6.19 @ Tower

A850 for the internal diff gears. 4.79 @ Tower

Really not all that hard to look up ya know.

[metalry101]

Ahhh. 11 turn speed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My truck is wickedly fast now. I jumped it tonight, got it at least 20 feet in the air. It was crazy, and freaking cool. I didn't break anything till the last jump (well, obviously it was the last if I broke something), but on the way back to the car the truck caught the edge of one of the other jumps and front flipped. Broke the rear shock tower. Damnit, hope the LHS has one in stock so I can attempt to launch it some more this weekend. This is just too fun.

[Falco]

How loose should the slipper clutch be, and will effect top speed?

[metalry101]

If the slipper is too loose, it will effect top speed. As for how tight, just play w/ it till you get it to a setting you like. I'd suggest clamping it all the way down and then backing it out a few turns, but I don't know. I leave mine pretty much clamped, but I don't land jumps on-throttle either. Just take the wrench w/ you and adjust it to your liking as you drive. If you hear the motor spooling up really fast but the truck isn't accelerating very hard, then tighten it, if you're on really rough terrain and the truck is bouncing off the ground and landing w/ the motor pegged, then you'll want to loosen it up a little so that you don't thermal your ESC (the sudden load will draw lotza current and boost up temps), or strip a gear, or otherwise break the truck. I'd also highly suggest using blue locktight, you'll still be able to move it, but it shouldn't change its setting on its own.

[Customizer]

I just got an rs4 mt off eBay for $78 + shipping, it comes with a 13 turn speed gems motor, Novak rooster revesible esc, and a 3000mAh battery. This is my first eletric truck (nitro man for 4 years now ) and was wondering what hop ups to get, I'm getting some extra belts and a bearing set first, what do you guys think?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

if it doesn't already, get some Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles (if you can't find a set, find lengths of the steel ones) and Losi or RPM ball cups....and I found that the woven graphite front brace really helps handling......congratulations on your purchase, you won't be dissapointed

[Falco]

planning on getting a new motor, is the speed gems still the favorite? I'v got a 15 turn limit on my ECS (plan to upgrade later) so if you guys could reccoment some decent motors that fall into that range.

anyone use the venom fireball?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

is this a good motor for my mt? and can i drop it in without having to change the gear ratio, my current motor gave out today, i've been lookin for a new one anyway to keep up with my b4 :)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34061&item=5901040176&rd=1

sorry i don't know how to link the text to the site, just copy paste

Edit: nevermind it linked it for me :D

[metalry101]

Falco~
Speed Gems Pro's are pretty good motors. I think they're pretty much the favorite here because they're as good as you're going to get for the price you pay. Hand winds are definately the best, but they're not exactly cheap, and they're basically overkill for anything other than hardcore racing.

HPI-Fan-4-Ever~
That's not a bad motor I guess. Reedy makes good stuff, so I'd assume this motor is as good or better. If not, an MVP comm is probably only 10 bux. Anyways, it's a racing stock motor, so it should probably be fine. As for the gear ratio...good question, I couldn't tell ya. It'd probably be alright, but it might be a little overgeared.

[TrickSpeed]

How loose should the slipper clutch be, and will effect top speed?

A easy way to set it up is tighten it all the way, loosen it some until you get the right amount of slip. To figure this out, you need a high traction surface (i do it on carpet). So tighten up the slipper all of the way, then back off a little. Now hold on the spur gear, do not let it turn at all. Move the truck forward by hand while holding on to the spur. The slipper should barely slip. If it doesn't youve got it too tight, and if its just slipping all day then it is too loose. By having it barely slip, it is enough to save your drivetrain when you land a jump, but not enough to lose a noticable amount of power the rest of the time. You can set it looser if you want to feel safer, but not too loose.

[TrickSpeed]

I just got an rs4 mt off eBay for $78 + shipping, it comes with a 13 turn speed gems motor, Novak rooster revesible esc, and a 3000mAh battery. This is my first eletric truck (nitro man for 4 years now ) and was wondering what hop ups to get, I'm getting some extra belts and a bearing set first, what do you guys think?\

Definately get the heasink motor plate.

[MTkid7]

Ok im about to make a big decission.. i have the money for either.. i planned on gettin a RS4 MT.. but my friend convinced me into gettin a E-maxx with matched 7 cells.. But now i have the money for a brushless MT or a 7 cell matched E-maxx.. I am generally an all around basher just to ahve fun.. no big 40 foot jumps for me.. even when i had my NMT. But really i just want a durable car that goes fast.. 7 cell MT.. prolly 40.. 7 cell E-maxx.. 35ish. Just looking for the best buy and best all around car.. Thanx
MTkid7

[Wizardman_1]

I was looking at this truck and it looks pretty good, if i get it what would be the best setup for it without spending a lot, for starters im thinkin:

RS4 MT
Futaba 2PH
Duratrax Intellispeed 20T
Orion Rush 19x1
Duratrax Bearing set

What other things did i miss that are needed for it to be RTR? Thanks

MTkid: i would get the MT with a brushless because it has no maintaince compared to brushed and you only need one battery to run instead of two for the t-maxx.

[metalry101]

MTkid7~
Don't know. I've owned both trucks and they both have their advantages and disadvantages. The Maxx is tougher, bigger, and more versatile. The MT is cheaper and simpler (is that a word?). I don't know about your speed estimates. 40 mph out of an RS4 MT? Maybe if it's geared right and you're running a good matched pack. 35 out of an E-Maxx w/ 7 cell packs? Ehh, maybe if you lighten truck truck, gear it up, and again, are running good matched packs. The E-Maxx definately handles lotza power better than the RS4 MT because it doesn't have any belts to stretch and jam and what-not. Oh ya, maybe you're really creative or something, but even if you are, I don't think you're gonna fit 7 cells in an RS4 MT. Anyways, the E-Maxx is easier to get parts for, and is a bit tougher, but parts are a bit more expensive, as is the rest of the truck. However, if you're planning on throwing a BL system in an RS4 MT, the E-Maxx probably is the cheaper setup, even w/ the extra batteries you'll need.

Wizardman_1~
Your setup looks pretty good, except I've got a few suggestions...
Nothing wrong w/ that radio, it's cheap, but it's well built and comfortable, you'll be happy w/ it. The ESC, well, I wouldn't run it w/ a 19 turn. I haven't run that exact ESC, it doesn't have reverse, and I don't think it'd do very well w/ the 19 turn. It could be just fine, you could just thermal it a lot, or you could fry it on the first run. Ya never know, and the warranty is gonna mean anything if you're running a 19 turn. I'd suggest running an ESC that can handle the 19 turn, or if you're tight on money and can't afford the better ESC, get a racing stock motor. The Trinity P2K2, Reedy MVP, and Orion Core Stock are all solid choices. I've personally run the P2K2 and the Core and they're both excellent motors that make a ton of power. If you care for them, they'll make more power and last longer than the Rush, which is a cheap motor. It's not the worst on the market, but racing stock motors are great stuff. Don't be scared away just because it's a 27 turn. Companies put a lot of research into making stock motors as powerful as possible because their reputations ride on their racing performance. Anyways, I'd suggest holding off on the Duratrax bearing set. They're only shielded, which means they'll get really dirty really fast if you run in the dirt a lot. I'd suggest holding off on them and getting a quality set of sealed bearings. I believe Dynamite makes a set, but I think they're relatively pricey. HPI also makes a set, and I think they're sealed, but they're also quite a bit more money than the Duratrax set. If you've got a little extra money, the steering servo is always a good place to start. The Hitec 625 is fast and more than strong enough for a truck the RS4 MT's size.

[MTkid7]

Thanks metalry101.. u were a big help... now all i need to do is sell my NMT

[Wizardman_1]

I've used that radio before and its a good one for its price. I don't want to spend that much on the ESC and i never use reverse on my evader anyway. Its only $24. Do you know of any good stock motors with bearings? I might just get a 20T Orion Rush since it has bearings, rebuildable, and adjustable timing. Any ideas on gearing also. The bearings are for the price also, i have them on my evader and they work for what they are designed to do. Another servo that is alright is the traxxas 2055, it might not have metal gears and high speed but it is ~$10 cheaper than the hitec one. Well thanks for the advice. Would making a custom front aluminum chassis brace be possible, what other aluminum parts could be used to strengthen the chassis so it won't bust as many belts and also how to remove steering slop.

[PapaST]

MTkid7... have you decided on what you are going with? I ordered my EMT with Novak BL and should have it later this week. I'm curious to hear from anyone else that has run the same setup. From what I gather, smaller pinion gears don't work too well. I'm assuming the BL system I'll be using (approx. 10t) would need a 13,14 or 15. Is that too small of a pinion gear? I'm getting the bearings and heat sink... what other upgrades should I look at? Thanks to anyone that has feedback.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

anyone got alink to a site where i can find some really cool looking yet extremely durable shocks? i completely snapped the piston rod on one of my rear shocks lol....i need to replace them all anyway

[Wizardman_1]

Front, 40wt is a good oil for this since it has a fast rebound

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXS3&P=7

Rear, 30wt is a good oil since it is set up for more dampening than the fronts, i have mine set up on white soft springs instead of these yellow mediums.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMK2&P=Z

You can always get the hard anodized sets if you would like, they also sell titanium nitrate shocks shafts.

[metalry101]

HPI-Fan-4-Ever~
I'd be willing to bet that the best shocks you're going to find for the EMT are the HPI aluminum ones. They're not cheap, and they don't look like high dollar shocks, but I used some on my Mini Pro when I had it. Damn they were smooth. I'd reccommend (sp?) them if you can afford them. I think Powerline makes some as well, but I think they're just as pricey. They're threaded and purple, so they probably look cooler (depends on the rest of ur truck, and ur personal preference), but I seriously doubt that they're as smooth as the HPI's. Not that they're bad, I can't say, I haven't used the HPI's or the Powerline's, but if it were me, I'd go w/ the HPI's. Also, the lighter the oil, the quicker the rebound will be. I run 30-35 in mine (can't remember), but that's the stock plastic shocks, and every design is different. If you're looking for cheaper, you might be able to find some shocks made for a T3, XXX-T, Evader, or some other stadium truck for 15-20 bux a pair. Don't know, the Duratrax would probably be your best bet if you're looking for low-buck.

PapaST~
Other upgrades...umm, if you jump a lot, alum shocks and stiffer springs. Buy or find a turnbuckle that you can put in the place of the Z-linkage on the steering, as it is one of the biggest weaknesses in the design of the whole truck. Replacing it w/ a turnbuckle will take a ton of slop out of ur steering, which is always a bonus. You can try running those pinions. The motor will probably rub the rear belt, but that's not the end of the world. It is a PITA, because it slows the truck down, makes the motor work harder and get hotter, and wears out rear belts (which aren't cheap) faster. You can always try it out.

Wizardman_1~
There are no good stock motors w/ bearings because ROAR rules state that the racing stock motors must run on bushings. Don't worry, they're fine. They use quality bushings, and if you buy bushing lube and put it on every coupla runs then you shouldn't have any problems. I run my stock motors in horrible conditions and I've never had any problems what-so-ever. Just trust me, get a good stock motor and take care of it. They're much better motors than the cheap Rush series. Just trust me on this one, I've run Rushes. They're not the end of the world, but they're nothing special, not even for the price. For gearing, w/ either the 20 turn or the stocker (a 27 turn), I'd suggest starting out w/ the factory gearing and going from there. Personally, I'd spend the extra 10 bux on the Hitec, it's a much better servo, much, much better. W/ a truck like the MT, you don't need torque, you need speed. Speed makes the truck more fun to drive, as it will make it more flickable. As for the alum brace, I wouldn't. It'd be heavy and unnecessary. If you really think you need something to stiffen the chassis, get the graphite peice from HPI, it's not that expensive, and it should be exactly what you're looking for. As for steering slop, see what I wrote to PapaST.

HTH

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

these HPI shocks? i searched on tower and these are what i found:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYP7&P=7

They look like what I have except for a purple cap, mine are silver. I really want some under 20 bucks...I saw a pair of T-Maxx shocks that looked really sweet, a pair of em for 20, would those fit? I'm sure they're durable.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXANU1&P=ML

[metalry101]

No, these HPI shocks...
Fronts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM700&P=Z)
Rears (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM701&P=Z)

I'm almost positive that Maxx shocks are too long. You might (and I stress might) be able to get them to work in the rear, but they'd be way way too long for the front. You don't want Maxx shocks. Just get stadium truck shocks. If you're looking for dirt cheap then get the ones made for the Duratrax Evader...
Fronts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMU7&P=Z)
Rears (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMV0&P=M)

I don't know if those are the correct length, but they should be close. They're your best bet if you're looking to save money. Even at double the price, I'd recommend the HPI's, but the Duratrax's will work fine for you, and they should be stronger than the stock plastic ones.

[MTkid7]

PapaST-
I think i am goig to go with a E-maxx.. u get more fun out of the truck.. i had a NMT.. well still have if anyone wants to buy it.. VERY FAST .16 engine ( 4 tanks ).. and i never did anything ballsy with it.. looking to jump like my neighobrs or a car or something..lol

[metalry101]

Don't know if anybody has every posted this before, it's a replacement steering system made specifically for the EMT, so we don't have to adapt the NMT ones to our chassis! Steering System (http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=156)

[PapaST]

Thanks metalry101... the "Steering System" link you just posted, is that a replacement part for the Z-linkage or would I also need to purchase a turnbuckle. I'll test several different pinions to see what type of rubbage I get. My setup will be Novak SuperSport BL. I'm interested to see if all the ads about running cooler, running 20% longer and virtually maintenance free are true. My HPI truck and gear should arrive today!!!!

[metalry101]

That replaces the entire steering assembly. Everything in the pics is included, the bellcranks, the tie rod, everything.

[PapaST]

I finally got the truck together, painted and running. I am very happy with it thus far, but I can tell I will have alot of questions. I installed a Novak Brushless Super Sport and it runs GREAT thus far. I'm new to the hobby so I don't have much to compare it to.
How do I know if a belt is too tight or just right? It has a slight drift to the left. I've tried adjusting the steering trim, camber, and remeasured the turnbuckles. But it still drifts to the left. I ordered the steering system that metalry101 posted, hopefully that will help. Are there any other steps to test or try to fix the drift? The inner body... is that a joke or do people really use it? Looks like it holds in alot of heat. On the other hand it looks like it keeps out alot of dirt. My brushless thus far has not gotten hot (nor my battery) luckily. I'd say that it runs pretty fast too (again nothing to compare it to). I love the braking... all 4 wheels working making the nose dip like a real car. That was the first thing I noticed... pretty nifty.

[cbrfreak]

Pretty nifty indeed... That's a good looking truck! The inner body does hold in a lot of heat, but if your brushless system isn't getting very hot, then I would use it as extra insurance against getting a rock hung up in the belts and ruining a differential. The left drifting thing... How is your alignment? What about servo centering?

[MTkid7]

Kool car PapaST.. but umm how bout u respond to my e-mail..lol

[cbrfreak]

Here are a couple of pics of my MT. Running SG Pro Amber with LRP F1 Pro Reverse esc.
http://home.comcast.net/~cbrfreak.rc/Pic00238.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~cbrfreak.rc/Pic00254.jpg

[MTkid7]

FOR SALE:
HPI NITRO MT .16 w/ 300$ in hop-ups. Selling for 300. It comes with everything needed to run when u get it except batts. You even get a bunch of other hop ups of replacemtns parts with it. Contact for Pics. PM for my e-mail or give me yours

[MTkid7]

Im still in a delema.. weather to get a brushless MT or a e-maxx.. want something durable... yet fast. have a stadium.. its kool.. but monster are way kooler.. but way slower unless u upgrade that to brushless. seeing papa's MT made me gaga over it. But ive never seen an e-maxx goon matched 7 cells..lol which would be my set up.

[cbrfreak]

Maybe this will help. The MT is discontinued and parts will soon be a problem to get. When I was at my LHS this past weekend they had a box of old HPI stuff on closeout. I noticed a lot of MT stuff in there... That means they are getting rid of it all and not gonna stock it any more. The E-Maxx is still current and easy to find parts and upgrades.

[PapaST]

Thanks cbrfreak... I'm pretty certain I centered the servo correctly. Do you plug up the servo turn it on and when the servo adjusts itself... that should be the center, correct? From there you just place the horn on vertically straight... am I close? Not sure how to do the alignment. I can eyeball it but I'm so new to the hobby I'm not sure I know what I'm looking for. I checked the camber... both at -1. The wheels look pretty good... a slight toe-in... I don't have anything to measure it with but I would guess a 1 degree toe-in. Not sure of any other "tricks of the trade" to check.

MTKid7... cbrfreak makes a good point. MT is discontinued and it almost discouraged me from buying it. But I wanted to have an electric 4wd stadium truck so that didn't leave me much choice. I don't know alot about Monster Trucks... I wasn't sure on the way it handled because it looks more top heavy than an ST and the larger wheels definitely lifts the center of gravity. But they do look like a load of fun and I'm willing to bet they are considerably more durable than an ST. As for parts, I agree they will be going bye bye eventually. But I have a feeling they will be available for some time. I read on someone's post about an HPI vehicle that was discontinued some time ago and you can still get parts. I'm guessing that I will move through trucks about 1 every 1 or 2 years, just because I can already tell that components, materials, designs, etc etc all evolve and by the time my MT is old and gray I'm sure I'll be buying the latest and greatest thing out at that time... so worrying about parts availability was a moot point for me

As for brushless... my first truck I had all kinds of motors and I got tired of truing the comms after 5 packs and replacing brushes and soldering on leads and cleaning out the motors... etc etc... I enjoy working on my vehicles but keeping up the motors was a pain.

[cbrfreak]

PapaST,
You don't sound real new to this game... Yor centering technique is right on the money. As for alignment, After you make sure your tie-rods are the same length, eyeballing for toe is just fine unless you are racing. I got the MT for the same reason as you... I wanted a 4WD electric ST. :) As for parts, I was talking mostly about local availability. Meaning that you will almost certainly have to order parts EVERY time you need something for it. What a pain in the arse. And yes, another pain is motor care!
Drifting... Is your servo ok? Tires glued?

[creep]

Did you try adjusting the steering trim on your transmitter?

[PapaST]

Yep... that was the first thing I tried. Basically the slightest adjustment one way (talking millimeters) then I drift left or right depending on the way I move the trim. What is the best way to get a good glue job on tires. They are glued on... but I've always just pulled them back and glued them. Is there a way to balance them? I'm going to try to change out the steering system with that one Metalry101 suggested. I also just bought another servo... it's a Futaba S3305 (metal gear). The notes on it say NiCd use only... why is that??? Does that mean that the NiMh batteries I use will mess it up? Between the steering system and new servo (if I can use it) I hope it cleans up the slop.

[cbrfreak]

Now it comes out! Not just drifting left... Drifts left or right. That's either a servo proplem or the steering link. Get rid of the slop in the steering and I bet the problem disappears. I don't know about the NiCd thing... I wouldn't be too concerned about it though.

[MTkid7]

NMT FOR SALE.. NMT FOR SALE..lol

[cbrfreak]

MTkid7,
Why not try Ebay to move your truck?

[MTkid7]

Have u looked at wat MT's are going for.. i saw a complete aluminum go for like 280.. granted it still had stock motor and elecs.. but man.. thats not wa tim looking for.. i had like one guy say he was going to buy it.. then backed out.. another at my LHS and then bought a monster.. lol. I have it posted on the website. ill give it a week

[TrickSpeed]

Now it comes out! Not just drifting left... Drifts left or right. That's either a servo proplem or the steering link. Get rid of the slop in the steering and I bet the problem disappears. I don't know about the NiCd thing... I wouldn't be too concerned about it though.

its the steering. grab one wheel and hold it, then grab the other wheel and see how much it moves side to side. Replacing the z-bend wire fixes most of the slop in the steering.

[PapaST]

Yeah... that is pretty bad... I have the steering kit coming so hopefully that will fix it. Couple of other issues I'm sure you guys have seen. One... how do you keep batteries from shaking around? Pads??? and where do you usually place them? Two... my dogbones on a hard turn and then hard reverse will pop out of the "socket" at the wheel connector, is there a way to stop that and I'm sure someone will recommend changing the dogbones... but to what??? I've read about Shiny MIP and stuff but not sure what they are.

I ordered a computer fan perfect size to fit over my ESC (on this brushless system it's the only thing that gets hot) Anyone ever use a fan on their ESC/Motor... does it really work? I'm testing now but wanted to see what the experts had to say.

[cbrfreak]

I have the MIP Shiny CVD's on my truck. Never had a problem with them. Here are a couple of links to them.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWB73&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWB74&P=7

[Wizardman_1]

Get a micro 12V fan at radio shack, then solder a servo lead to the positive and negative, cut the extra wire coming out of the lead. Then get a 9v battery connector and solder it to a female servo lead. Mount a 9v battery to your chassis and plug everthing in. Here's link where the servo lead from the motor just plugs in to your reciever but it doesnt give enough airflow this way. Just yell if you need some pics, i have a fan on the motor of my evader.

http://www.xtremerc.com/ (go to how to section, then how to install a cooling fan)

[cbrfreak]

Get a micro 12V fan at radio shack, then solder a servo lead to the positive and negative, cut the extra wire coming out of the lead. Then get a 9v battery connector and solder it to a female servo lead. Mount a 9v battery to your chassis and plug everthing in. Here's link where the servo lead from the motor just plugs in to your reciever but it doesnt give enough airflow this way. Just yell if you need some pics, i have a fan on the motor of my evader.

http://www.xtremerc.com/ (go to how to section, then how to install a cooling fan)
Try this link instead. It will take you right to the article.
http://www.xtremerc.com/howtos/95/index.htm

[PapaST]

First day at the local track today with the new EMT w/ super novak brushless. For the most part I was impressed with the EMT and the brushless. I did thermal once but in Florida's 92 humid degree weather... with the inner body on... I halfway expected the ESC to thermal. I ditched the inner body and slapped the fan on the ESC connected to the receiver. Kept the temps right around 120 degrees... I was very impressed and I didn't thermal anymore. The car handled very well but seemed to dump the front end on big jumps (I need to learn how to gas and brake more effectively through the air). Now... with that motor + an inexperienced driver = lots of crashes and cartwheels. Things that were issues (I'm sure some of which would clear up as soon as I learn how to drive)... when the turnbuckles got "knocked" they would "slide" down the tie rod. Meaning a 76mm turnbuckle after getting knocked would compress to saaayyyy 72mm messing up the wheel stance. At the track I bought some Trinity turnbuckles and they seemed to grap the tie rod much better with no room for stripping or sliding. Is there another system that can be used other than the turnbuckles available??? such as an eyelet system??? If anyone knows... let me know. The two screws on the front brace that sit ontop of the steering lever arms. That came loose and if I tightened it down too much it would restrict the steering. Did I miss something like a washer or something when I built the truck? Or is there a trade secret to keeping that secure without killing the steering? Is it possible to change out the screws for mounting the motor to allen screws? The phillip stuff really stinks I think. Bent a rear dogbone but I've got the MIPS on order and on their way. Other than that... the airs were great and coming around turns keeping alot of my speed was cool. What type springs does everyone use? I have the black stock springs but they seem very soft. I bought the blue hard springs but did not use them. With the black springs the rear end has alot of droop... and I'm using the recommend spacer on the spring.

Overall I'm glad I got out of there with as little damage as I did... Thus far the EMT has met all my expectations.

[PapaST]

Can anyone tell me which is better... the universal joints or MIP shiny cvds... from what I understand, they both are better than the stock linkage system. But cvds have a joint that can eventually shake apart whereas universal does not. Is one smoother than the other? Does one deliver more power or speed?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

PapaST:

I have some HotBodies aluminum threaded ST shocks in the back, and they come with a fairly hard spring, which if you put the collar down further on the body, helps prevent nosediving (at least it did for me, you might have to play with it) . sorry i can't post a link i bought it at my LHS, but try a search on hotbodies sight....on the front I run the black spring and 1 large shock body clip....it seems to take jumps very well

the only thing that really helps with the screws coming loose is some threadlock and patience...you have to screw them in just enough where they are tight but you still have all your steering....it might be possible to use washers so you can completely tighten the screw and keep steering, you'll have to try it out

glad to hear you enjoyed the mt!

[dangey]

OK i've gone through most of this post but have not seen much about brushless setups. I was just wondering if i bought a MT kit and put a brushless in it w/o anything other than stock... would i be eating through gears and parts like crazy or will i be ok? The system i will be running is the Novak SS.

Thanks
Chris

[PapaST]

dangey, I would think stock is going to be geared too high. I just bought my MT with Novak SS brushless about 2 weeks ago... I've run it in the yard and road a few times and the local track just once. My battery and motor are fine, but my ESC cooks in this FL weather. My first run on the track my ESC temp was about 210. I ditched the inner body and put a fan on the ESC... that helped out tremendously. My temps never went about 140. The SS motor with a 96/22 is in my opinion too fast for the truck. Just tooling around I haven't broken anything (knock knock) but that day at the track... let's see, busted turnbuckles, bent dogbone, split axle cup, and lost one of my sway bars. Since that day I've made a few mods... aluminum arms, aluminum c-hubs, aluminum knuckles, metal gear servo, Ti turnbuckles, aluminum shocks, graphite rear tower, 18t pinion, dual 25mm 5vdc fans on the ESC, motor heat sink, GPM aluminum steering system, front graphite brace, power pole connectors, plus i bought some kit on ebay to convert all those phillip screws to hex bolts. haven't seen those yet so I'm not sure. The more I run my truck, I'll let you know how the truck holds up. But long story short... if you're a novice like me, you will bust some stuff up pretty quick. Don't get me wrong... it's a tough little truck but I was really flinging it around that day at the track.

Gear down as much as you can (I went 18 because the belt gets too close to the can).

BTW... HPI-fan-4-ever... that steering kit i added along with the graphite front brace... I can torque down the bolts on the steering side as much as I want without effecting the steering.

[Jenith44]

Well gald you like your mt! Ive had one since they came out a few years back and mine has held up very well. I Raced it at a local track untill this fall in a cool rs4 mt only class. It was tons of fun but had to stop due to most of the members of the mt class going off to collige. So now its my back yard beater. And it takes the bumps and stumps with no problem, even keeps up in the bumpy stuff with my friends e-maxx! But anyways the MIP cvds are way better than the universals made by hpi, there stronger and alot smother. Also if you can aford it try picking up some different shocks, the plastic ones work great for a wile but after about the second rebuild mine started to bind, so i swaped em with some extra shocks i had laying around from an old xxt and those are a perfect drop-in. They are just a little bit longer but if you put in the MIP cvds it doesnt matter. Hope ta have fun with it.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

What happened to this thread? Don't tell me its gonna die off....

anyway.....I recently bought a Reedy MVP 19T racing motor, and I was wondering what kind of pinion gear I should use...I read in the MT manual that it suggest somethingin in the early 30's....right now I have on a 23 and the electronics are getting just a bit too hot for my liking.....

[cbrfreak]

What happened to this thread? Don't tell me its gonna die off....

anyway.....I recently bought a Reedy MVP 19T racing motor, and I was wondering what kind of pinion gear I should use...I read in the MT manual that it suggest somethingin in the early 30's....right now I have on a 23 and the electronics are getting just a bit too hot for my liking.....
You're gonna want to try a 18 or 19 tooth pinion.

[TrickSpeed]

Can anyone tell me which is better... the universal joints or MIP shiny cvds... from what I understand, they both are better than the stock linkage system. But cvds have a joint that can eventually shake apart whereas universal does not. Is one smoother than the other? Does one deliver more power or speed?

You cant rebuild the universals, so once they develop some slack you'll end up getting CVDs anyway.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

I bought an 18 tooth Losi pinion gear, but with it installed, the rear belt rubs the motor can...how can I fix this, or should I not worry about it? I need at the most an 18 tooth so changing the pinion gear is out of the question. Please help!

[cbrfreak]

Sorry... The motor can rubs with anything smaller than 20 teeth. Smaller than 18 teeth, and it will cause a lot of drag. I run 18 with no ill effects except for the rub marks it leaves on the can.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

so I have nothing to worry about? I was only concerned that the rubbing would either heat up the can even more or wear the belt prematurely. Thanks for the quick reply!

[cbrfreak]

It will add a little heat to the motor and it will add wear to the belt, but not too bad. Sorry, I don't know what else to say except the motor mounting arrangement is a little gimpy...

[cbrfreak]

I'm putting a brushless motor in mine so I can run a larger pinion and have power...

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Send me a brushless system while your at it :D

I got it worked on there and it's barely (if at all) rubbing, so it shouldn't present a problem.

How fast can an EMT go with a brushless? Once i get a couple hundred I may have to pick one up :rolleyes:

[cbrfreak]

Send me a brushless system while your at it :D

I got it worked on there and it's barely (if at all) rubbing, so it shouldn't present a problem.

How fast can an EMT go with a brushless? Once i get a couple hundred I may have to pick one up :rolleyes:
Not positive on the speed with the SS5800, (What I'm getting) but the math works out to around 40 MPH.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

well, thats a lot faster then what mine goes right now... 40 mph is really fast for an electric stadium truck, and 4wd at that, so I bet it will be a blast....

How much does your brushless cost? I've looked at em and everyone I've seen is waaaay too much...I'm gonna sell my nitro car soon and I want money left over if I do get a brushless system.

[cbrfreak]

I'm running a Trinity SG Pro Amber 17t motor right now and it does 18~20 MPH... So yes, if it will do 40MPH I'd be more than happy! I'm getting the Novak SS 5800 from Tower Hobbies for $225. It's a lot of money for a motor and esc, but compared to Nitro, it's comperable... I think the speed will be comperable to Nitro also. And hey, you can't beat the maintenance intervals on the brushless system!

[oachalon]

this thread made me go out and get my mt running again. I had to buy a couple little parts but now its running. I completely forgot how great this truck powerslides around turns. Im running my old trinity d3 10turn. Still runs like a champ, and the old and faithful tekin rebel. Dont have that many hopups for it just the carbon fiber chassis brace and the carbon fiber rear shock tower and i think i have proline street hawgs on it. Dont remember if thats the name. Ive got 3 good cars now. My t-maxx my rs4 pro2 and my rs4 mt. Im soon adding a traxxas revo to my collection and maybe one day i will get my traxxas sledgehammer and rustler and associated t3 running. Im loving rc cars all over again.

[C.J.OO]

I have 2 HPI NMTs ..
.1.HPI.15ss motor, hpi 2speed kit,hpi deep star wheels,proline 2.2 road w=hawgs & USA1 body Its MEAN..
.2.Hot boddies .18engine,stock 52t spur,13tC/B..the rest is pretty much stock..
I have seen aloy hop up parts and am also sick of the plastic ball steering popping off on jumps or small crashes I also Own two 1/8 buggys and a monster truck and also a 23cc boat but I am ready to spend some more money on the NMTs I am verry loyal to the NMT it was my first Nitro and I love them dearly..
I guess what I am asking Is whats the BEST steering Kit for them..
and whats the BEST Other hop ups I need to make em a Bit more tougher.. I have just had a Mad strip of jumps made and I REALLY want the NMTs OUT and amoungst them The buggys and the truck are having to much fun so I am starting to feel for my old favourites..please help me and remember $$$$ Is not a problem...
Thanx in advance....

[creep]

Sorry, but you've got the wrong thread. This is for the electric MT.

[C.J.OO]

OOps sorry my bad What a waste..lol..

[PapaST]

cbrfreak... definitely let me know how your brushless works out. I have that setup with SS5800 and I've been loving mine, but I'm curious to know how you gear yours, etc. I first ran mine with the stock 22t pinion and it was fast (don't know the speed). The only thing that ran hot was my ESC so I added fans, I'll post a pic so you can see... you'll prolly need to do the same (the fans keep my esc around the 120 -145 range). Just for kicks, I went to an 18 and it still runs great. Just for kicks I will put a 26t pinion just to see what it will do on top end. How do you guys normally measure your top speed? Venom speedometer? Is it difficult to install? I'm interested to know how you set yours up.

[PapaST]

cbrfreak... i took 2 5vdc fans and placed them on the ESC... the power comes from the BEC receiver... it helps to keep the ESC temp down

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44967&stc=1

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

hey cbrfreak would you mine posting a pic of the inside of the brushless motor? i've never seen one inside, and i'm curious as to how it works.....i plan on either getting a brushless for the emt or getting another one to tear up the track...

[cbrfreak]

Boy... Why am I the popular one all the sudden? :) I will be ordering my motor tonight.
HPI-Fan-4-Ever, I don't plan on opening my motor for any reason... Sorry.
PapaST, Sounds like a good idea with the fans. Where did you find 5 volt fans at? As for gearing, I'm gonna start with 20/96.
Thanks!

[PapaST]

cbrfreak... there are plenty of places to get them. I found mine on this site http://www.excess-solutions.com/5vdc_fans.htm#25MM

[cbrfreak]

Thanks PapaST... I'll let you guys know in about two weeks how the new motor goes in the MT!

[cbrfreak]

Hey PapaST,
I forgot to ask... Did your steering problem go away when you installed the new steering bellcrank or did it turn out to be something different?

[PapaST]

oh yeah... it works like a charm... I added that steering system and i think the graphite front brace helped out too. runs nice and straight. the thing i really like about it. in a stock set up, if you torque down the two bolts over the servo saver and its mate you can freeze up the steering if you tighten it too much. with the front brace and steering system you can tighten it down as much as you like and not worry about the steering being inhibited... Thanks again cbrfreak

[PapaST]

Real quick, I know this is the electric thread but... I was thinking about getting an RS4 MT2 Nitro. Does anyone know if it has reverse? Do nitro trucks in general have reverse? Thanks guys.

[cduna]

Hey Peoples

Me and Buddy are working on a .25 Big Block MT2 project anyone know of any online articles or source of info we could use ?? I knwo this has been done using the New Era Conversion Kit but would like some pointers .. Thanks

Chris

[traxxas-dude]

You should post that in the Nitro MT Thread... :rolleyes:

[PapaST]

cbrfreak... that's a good place to start wit the 96/20... it puts the final gear around 12.48 which goes along the guidelines of Novak's 12.3. That's what I'm running now and it's a nice blend of speed and torque. Be careful screwing in the motor to the plate with the stock hpi screws. I either torqued them too much or they are not the correct thread or the can's threading is soft. Either way, I switched to an allen machine screw and they fit like a glove and i'm not worried about it stripping.

[cbrfreak]

Thanks PapaST,
I just got my SS5800 running. I think EVERY Electric MT owner should power their MT with this motor! It really woke it up. After two 2400 Sanyo packs run through it, running on the street and grass, the batteries get hotter than the motor and esc. Very cool! I geared it 20/96 and it seems perfect. I'll be running it in the dirt this weekend.

[cbrfreak]

I installed a cooling fan on the heat sink of the esc to help with air flow because I put a new inner body on it. There are also a couple of vid clips of it running brushless. I broke a lot of parts on the double jump crash!

You will have to replace the **** with rc pics in the URL.
SS5800 layout (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=33550)
Close up of the fan mounting (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=33551)
The new inner body (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=33552)
Speed video clip! Quicktime... Sorry! (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=33554)
The double jump crash vid clip. Quicktime... Sorry again! (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=33553)

[PapaST]

That is a nice setup!!! The screws, I thought about doing that to hold the fan in place. How is it working? Do they slip out? What size are you using? Yes, I too have broken quite a few things but I'm loving it. Hope you enjoy it as much as I have.

[cbrfreak]

Thanks Papa...
After many, many severe crashes, the fan is holding on just fine. The scres are just plain old 2x10mm machine screws. I used the course threaded screws to get it started and then the machine screws went right in and cut their own threads. I had some glitching because my fan is powered by the receiver but I added a motor capacitor across the power leads on the fan and it went away for the most part.

Did you see the new pic with the rear wing I added?

[cbrfreak]

Here is my rc pics gallery. My RS4 MB pic is there... :p pic gallery (http://www.******.net/media.php?searchstr=user:4755&trick=Any&type=Any&time=1089690880&search=search&limit=10)

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

well, after about 3 hours of building and rebuilding, I figured out how to affix a 5th shock above the rear shock tower, positioned like the ones on the new Genesis truck. I know its not necessary, but it looks pimp and the shock actually works :cool: . It helps with landing from large jumps too. I'll try and post pics tomorrow if my camera decides to be nice to me :rolleyes:

[PapaST]

cbrfreak... those are some great pics. I like the realism of the H2. I've thrown in some of my pics and vids on RC Pics.net

Here's the link: :cool: PapaST Gallery on RC Pics (you'll have to replace the ****** with RC Pics) (http://www.******.net/member/dmzshadow)

I'm just doing the **** like cbr... I'm assuming this is because RC Pics doesn't allow links anymore???

Hope you enjoy the pics and vids!!!

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

cbrfreak: that looks almost just like a 1/8th scale buggy! lol :D and that red underbody looks very cool, makes it look like a sand buggy


PapaST: where'd you get those aluminum arms? and how well do they hold up? I wanted some but I heard that aluminum arms were a no-no in offroading...sweet lookin rides!

[PapaST]

HPI-Fan-4-Ever... HPI highly recommends that you don't use them because in a wreck the impact can cause damage to other parts (such as the chassis). I luckily have not had that problem (knock knock). Plus in the rear I use an aluminum bulkhead so that helps out a great deal. I either got them from Hobby Etc. or AsiaTees

[cbrfreak]

Looks great Papa. It's amazing how you can take two identical kits and come out with two totally different RC's.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Papa: thanks for the reply, I heard that the EMT shares a lot of parts with the Pro 2 i believe, is that where the bulkheads came from? Also someone on here had an aluminum motor/belt pulley mount and it looked awesome, and he said it was from an older HPI electric car.

cbrfreak: dang! what all did u break on that double jump? that looked pretty brutal

[Battle Bot Dude]

Hi everyone
I want my RS4MT to go 20mph or faster. I have a 20 turn esc. Any motor i should get that are not to much money. I have a jaguar peak reacing 23 turn motor now. Any gearings is should try. Whatever help i can get the better.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Well, if you only have a 20-turn limit you'll have to rely more on gearing than the motor. What size pinion gear are you using now? A simple increase of 3-5 teeth can make a large difference. If you do that, you'll have to make sure that the motor and ESC doesn't get too hot. You need a good mixture of acceleration and speed so you don't fry anything.

[cbrfreak]

cbrfreak: dang! what all did u break on that double jump? that looked pretty brutal

:D I broke all the body mounts off, cracked the body, and stripped the rear belt. It was definately the worse crash I have had... I'm not used to the power and 4WD reaction to throttle yet. My Rustler does it just fine.

Battle Bot Dude: Try a Kyosho Magnetic Mayhem motor. $20 at Tower.

[PapaST]

HPI FAN 4 EVER... I don't know about the motor pulleys but the rear aluminum bulkheads came from hobby etc.

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=62

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Thanks for the link Papa, thats a higher price than what I expected, but hey, what can ya do.

[califax]

Has anyone heard of the MT2 Pro conversion or kit coming out? If so, whats it got and when will it be available? :confused:

[rush freak]

i saw a pic in rc nitro and it said it had a 100 cc tank comes with the 18ss motor cvds looks pretty bad a$$

i love the 18ss motor i have one in my nmt and it rips

[Battle Bot Dude]

My pinion gear is 29. Over heating is not really a problem I installed a computer fan. It keeps everything cool.

[cbrfreak]

How did the Electric MT forum get moved to the Nitro forum?

[Battle Bot Dude]

Does anyone have any suggestions for some off- road tires that have good tread but will not mess up my gearings?

[vsnakebytev]

I am looking for some wheel adaptors that will fit onto the Mt's axle and allow me to put on a T-Maxx rim, or maybe even a set of Monster Pirate rims. Does anyone know of such a product? Thank you

[cbrfreak]

Well, I know traxxas wheels can fit the MT so maybe an adapter for the Stampede to fit Maxx wheels would work. Just a thought.

[vsnakebytev]

Who makes the adaptors for the pede to fit maxx wheels?

Thanks

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

How did this forum get into the Nitro Threads? No wonder I couldn't find it....

anyway, what pinion do you recommend with a Reedy MVP 19T motor? I have the stock spur on.

[cbrfreak]

The stock spur should be pretty close... How are your operating temps?
btw, I tried starting a new Elctric MT thread in the electric forum so MT users could find it.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Well, I haven't ran the motor in it yet, I was using it in another car, so I dunno about temps. I'll start with an 18T and work from there.

[cbrfreak]

18t is about as low as you can go without bad belt rubbing.

[Falco]

I was at the LHS the other day and noticed Pro-line make spinners. Of course they are only designed for their TC and 1/8 scale rims, so here's my question, has anyone tried mounting 26mm rims on their EMT? I'm sure it could be done, but not sure what it would look like.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

When you say 26mm rims, I assume you just mean touring car tires.I have mounted TC tires on the EMT. They were rally treads, so they were a little bit bigger than normal touring tires, but it still looked kinda goofy. It was kinda cool though, cuz it can "spin out" easier and break traction for doing peel-outs. The hot thing to do would be to use RS4-3 a-arms so the EMT is a rally car of sorts. But yes, it works, and no, it doesn't look right.


By the way, about the 18T pinion. After a pack of "medium" running, not all out the whole time, the batt pack was just a little warm, and the motor can was kinda hot. I've heard of a 10second rule, and although it hurt a little, I could hold my finger on it as long as I wanted to. So, is it running too hot?

[cbrfreak]

By the way, about the 18T pinion. After a pack of "medium" running, not all out the whole time, the batt pack was just a little warm, and the motor can was kinda hot. I've heard of a 10second rule, and although it hurt a little, I could hold my finger on it as long as I wanted to. So, is it running too hot?
That sounds about right... You have to remember that because the motor is buried behind the pack that it doesn't get any airflow. It will always run kinda warm. If you can't hold the motor because it's giving you 3rd degree burns, then it's overgeared. :)
btw, my SS5800 with a cooling fan on the esc doesn't get hot at all. It's geared 20/96

[PapaST]

cbrfreak... that fan helps out a ton. I actually geared mine to 22/96 and sometimes 23/96 just because I can get away with it. me and my friends are getting into nitro, I just got a revo, so i'm trying to make my brushless emt just as fast. i will have a drag race soon to see which one is faster.

[cbrfreak]

Hi PapaST! Glad to see you are still around! I plan on trying my luck racing in the Monster Truck class with mine. It should do pretty well.

[PapaST]

cbrfreak... did you get a Revo? or are you talking about your EMT? How has your brushless been holding up? Any thermals happening?

[cbrfreak]

I'm talking about the EMT. The brushless has been flawless with no thermals. THe truck its self is now very reliable with the various mods I made to it.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

thanks for the reply cbrfreak....unfortuneatley....i was down at my neighbor's house doing serious ramping (he has a ghetto garage with tables and counters and stuff) and i went to go off this kitchen table (roughly a 6-7ft high jump).....it lands sideways and the next thing i know i hear a clicking sound, and it doesn't turn no more :mad: stripped the teeth in the servo arm.....first run that i was using the aluminum steering kit too......so my question is......what can i do to prevent this, are there aluminum arms i can use or some kind of built-in servo saver on an arm?

if u get a revo, tell me about it! i was thinkin of asking santa :p for one this year.....lol

[PapaST]

HPI-Fan-4-Ever... i used an aluminum steering kit as well and i stripped out 3 servos on very light hits in about 1 or 2 months. I've tried using aluminum horns and metal gear servos but those stripped too. Sadly, what I did was use aluminum steerer on one and the original plastic servo saver on the other. I did use the linkage device that came with the aluminum kit to keep the arms separated (instead of that metal piece that comes with the EMT). I got that kit to clean up the steering and it did work, but because I stripped the servos i went back to half plastic and unfortunately sloppy steering again. Let me know if you come up with something...

I did get a REVO, it's my first venture into nitro and it's been pretty good so far. Lots of fun for sure and i like how that thing can just about go anywhere... i've got a couple of vids on R C P I C S.net It's a ton of fun and it does seem to be built "intelligently".

[cbrfreak]

On the stripped steering problem... I saw that as a potential problem if I upgraded to aluminum so I didn't go that route. I run off-road only so extremely accurate steering isn't nearly as important as reliability. I left the whole front end stock and had to beef the rear end up. My truck is extremely reliable and fast with SS5800. I had to make a brace for the rear portion of the chassis to keep from breaking it due to the aluminum bulkhead and arms. It works wonderfully now!

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Well, I would prefer to keep the aluminum steering on because I run on pavement/grass/sidewalks more than on dirt because of where I live. I'm sure that there are servo arms with built-in savers because I have seen them in RCCA....I'll do a search and post a link if I can find one.....

[cbrfreak]

I'm sure one of these savers would work.
standard duty saver (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS362&P=ML)
Heavy Duty Saver (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS361&P=ML)

[storm]

i keep burning up clutches in my hpi nitro rs4 mt....i was wondering if the racing clutch will last any longer then the stock shoes

[Falco]

just won a two speed off ebay, now i just need a new motor and ESC!

[metalry101]

^^^ Goin for some on-road speed eh? Post some pics when u get urs done. I'm gonna build my MT up for all out performance on the pavement, minus the 2-speed most likely so that I can at least throw some off-road tires on it and tear up the dirt a little.

What kind of setup do you have so far?

[storm]

was that question for me...man its been a long day...lol

[josh222]

Hi all, I have finished turning my SS in to a MTSS :D How do these specs sound? 3" of ground clearence and about 6" of Flex :)

[metalry101]

was that question for me...man its been a long day...lol

This is the electric MT forum...the mods just put it in here by mistake and haven't gotten around to fixing it yet. Probably never will...oh well. Here's a link to the forum you want...


Nitro MT Forum (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1558478#post1558478)

[josh222]

i didn't know this was the electric fourm :(

[metalry101]

It's all good man...just figured we wouldn't be able to help you much, but the guys in the Nitro MT forum should be able to. No hard feelings...it's easy to see how it could get confusing.

[storm]

thx for the link man

[PapaST]

HPI Fan and cbrfreak... I bought those servo saver arms that you recommended so I'll let you know how they work. So far so good... I definitely like the aluminum steering and with those savers I can rest a little easier.

[cbrfreak]

Thanks for the update PapaST. Deffinately let us know!

[josh222]

but still is 3" of clearence good and i can put a wheel on a pop can and the rest still touch

[PapaST]

cbrfreak and HPIFAN... I'm using the Heavy Duty Saver that cbrfreak posted and they work great. Make sure you use it with a metal gear servo. I've been running my truck alot and haven't stripped a servo yet. The aluminum steerers really take out the slop on steering.

HPIFAN... the REVO is running great too... That thing is a ton of fun. Tell Santa you want one

[PapaST]

Just as an interesting factoid... I had a street drag with my HPI brushless MT, my Revo and a nitro HPI MT2. Both the nitros could have been tuned a little more but regardless the brushless MT beat them pretty soundly!!!

[metalry101]

Can't say I'm surprised by that. The Revo should hold it's own when tuned right, but it doesn't surprise me that the BL truck runs away. Your MT2 on the other hand...that's a different beast all-together. A 17 turn powered RS4 MT w/ the right gearing should light up an MT2. That HPI engine is a P.O.S. You want something that can keep up w/ ur BL MT? Swap that 2.5 into the MT2 (if it'll fit? Maybe it would require cutting the crank?), or get an O.S. 18 for it, and maybe even the 2-speed (I beileve it uses the exact same drivetrain as an RS4 3...so just buy the 2-speed from the tourer and slap it in.). Short of those kinds of mods, an MT2 will never keep up.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Speaking of metal-gear servos, my "sponsor" sent me some cash for one, and I definitely want to stick with Futaba cuz thats what runs my truck, but I couldn't find any on TowerHobbies. Does anyone got a link to one they found? I could always head to the hobby store, but they are pricey and never have anything in stock.

Snow's almost here :mad: but that means ice-racing and Christmas soon....I dunno....a REVO, or a brushless system? I also have an HPI Super F1, that could be pretty sick brushless.......

[bob333]

go revo man those things are awesome

[MT2 owns you]

I'll try it again:
dude thats awesoem..im gettin "snow tires" for mine

[Jetskiboy77]

Can't say I'm surprised by that. The Revo should hold it's own when tuned right, but it doesn't surprise me that the BL truck runs away. Your MT2 on the other hand...that's a different beast all-together. A 17 turn powered RS4 MT w/ the right gearing should light up an MT2. That HPI engine is a P.O.S. You want something that can keep up w/ ur BL MT? Swap that 2.5 into the MT2 (if it'll fit? Maybe it would require cutting the crank?), or get an O.S. 18 for it, and maybe even the 2-speed (I beileve it uses the exact same drivetrain as an RS4 3...so just buy the 2-speed from the tourer and slap it in.). Short of those kinds of mods, an MT2 will never keep up.

Or do what I did and throw in a big block and a 2 speed. I dont see how a brusless could destroy my truck. Im not tryin to down BL, but I cant see anything having more power.

[Kenny T]

My Novak SS5800 in my Pro3 can match my RS4 3(I'm sure you know what I've got) if it was in first gear. Once it hits second, the Novak is no match.

BTW, watch out mate my 12 cell brushless converted NMT should give your NMT a run for it's money. ;)

[Jetskiboy77]

That would be a nice race to see, BL Electric NMT vs .21 NMT.

[coreyfro]

This thread has been dead for a year, lets revive it.

I am interested in installing 1/8th scale buggy wheels on my rs4mt. I am pretty sure the following part would not work:

17mm hubs for 6mm axles
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&P=WR&I=LXBM13

Anyone know of any 17mm hubs for 5mm axles? Google didn't help me in this quest.