HPI RS4 MT

[RC Crazy]

Post anything about the RS4 MT, gearing, motors, setups, picturs, hop ups, anything remotly related to the RS4 MT http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/cool.gif Speak freely.

[speediskey]

I own a rs4 mt and i would recommend buying bearings,cvd's and if you think you are going to play in the dirt a lot i would recommend getting metal pulleys and upgrading to ball diffs because rocks have screwed up mine in the past.

[RC Crazy]

I allready have barings and i need to get the metal top pully shaft because i striped the pin that holds the small pullys 3 times!

[RC Crazy]

Does anyone know if someone makes a aluminum rear shock tower for the electric RS4 MT. Also, im looking for some blue anodized shocks for it too. Any sugestions?

[Asmenoth]

Look on HPI's websight. Compare the Elec MT's shock tower's to the Nitro MT's shock towers. If they look the same(or have the same part #), then there are 2 companies.
GPM products (goto Hobby Etc's web sight) and Megatech (look on America's Hooby Center...AHC1931.com I think).
Megatech's aluminum parts look just as good as GPM's, but are much cheaper! On the other hand, GPM makes some other parts that Megatech doesn't.
Actually, I just checked out the Hobbyetc.com sight, and GPM makes aluminum parts for the Elec MT. But if you are short on cash and the parts are the same for both the Elec and Nitro, go for the Megatech parts.
I've used both companies parts on multiple cars and they're great parts.

[RC Crazy]

Thanks a trillion Asmenoth for all that usfull information. that helped me ALOT. i thought for shoure that no one would respond to my question. Thanx.

[RC Crazy]

I want to put some of those pro-line Masher truck tires on my EMT and im woried that the gear ratio will not give me any power. Is there a way to put a smaller pinion then HPI says to? And is there a motor that has MASIVE torqe? I have a speed gems2 15t and it has no power in the snow and any rough terain.

[kojak61]

I went with the Speed Gem 2 ruby (16x2).
My new Question is which Spur and pinion should I use? I currently have a 20 tooth and 22 tooth pinion and one 96 tooth spur gear. not much to work with I know.

[kojak61]

Check out my ride. http://www.geocities.com/geokojak61/my_rs4_mt.html

[DeSmet Spartan]

Instead of buying the Robinson topshaft, I replaced the pins with pieces of paperclip. I haven't had any troubles since.
I don't recommend getting the graphite chassis because it is more brittle than the original chassis. Just get the graphite top plate and your truck will be stiffer and stronger. The heatsink motor plate is also a good investment.

[RC Crazy]

I used a grinded down allen rench and havent had much trouble yet. I havent drove it much ether.

[Ras Thavas]

Here is my current body.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1584274&a=12056192&p=44663206&f=0

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1584274&a=12056192&p=44663205&f=0

Hope this one lasts longer than the baja bug!

[RC Crazy]

nice truck. My bodies look like crap, paint bleeds trough the making tape, wheel whels all chopy lookin and cant cut them good at all. I like that purple.

[RS4_MT_DUDE]

My MT has 2 speed tranny and a 15 q motor. I've hit 42.4 mph and nothing stops it off road. But does anyone know why so many people didn't like it. Cause I rarely hear good thing about it from others. About their problems with it. I haven't had any problems with mine.

[Fergy]

I resently sold mine. I found it to be a little on the fragile side. I replaced the right suspension arm twice after minor hits, then was advised to boil the suspension arms before installation. This seemed to work but then the frame cracked and I gave up on it. I've had similiar accidents with my Baja Champ and Ultima RB with no breakages. IMO off road buggies and stadium trucks should be durable and the HPI RS4 MT does not fulfill that requirement.

[kojak61]

I like the Pro Line 1950's body for the Tmaxx, does anyone know if it will fit the RS4 MT?

[Ras Thavas]

I have a 19T Trinity Chameleon. I mostly bash with it, running it in the street or on an open field with some low grass, and the tires handle that well. I am surprised how much traction they have on the street.

As far as the durability goes, I have had some serious crashes, where I just knew something had to break, but I have yet to break anything but the Baja Bug body.

[This message has been edited by Ras Thavas (edited 04-03-2001).]

[kojak61]

I have a RS4 MT and run it mostly offroad. I am using a 16x3 mod motor now, but my friend just got a Rustler we are going to get the same stock motor to make things more competitive. I am looking at the P2K and GM3.
The track we we race on has a few quick turns and on long jump.

[kojak61]

http://www.rccaraction.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=002406

[kojak61]

What gearing should I use with the MVP. I have a RS4 MT and it has a 2.6 gearbox ratio. I am using a 24p/96s with a 16x3 speed gems, but will be getting the MVP soon.

[Ras Thavas]

Try a 26t pinion with the mvp.

[Usagi]

Thank you steve!:) :cool:

[HauntedMyst]

If you decide to upgrade the shocks on the MT, do NOT get the MT super shocks. I think HPI normally makes pretty good shocks but the MT shocks, the regular and super both suck on an extraordinary level. I can't tell you how many times the bottoms on mine just blew out. Get the Associated shocks. They work and were originally designed for a truck where as the HPI shocks were designed for touring cars and simply elongated.

[RC Crazy]

I just upgraded my RS4MT with a 12 turn motor, fun fun fun:D Now I just need a smaller pinion gear for off road. It flies on pavment but needs more power off road. Also the rear belt is realy p1ssing me off. HPI couldnt think of anything to cover the belts with. Ive gone through 3 belts in one and a half months.

[Ras Thavas]

Wow, I have only gone through 1 belt in 9 months. Look at the back of the truck, there is a lottle hole where you can see the differential. Put a piece of duct tape over that hole so debris can not get in.

Personally, I can't wait for the brushless to come out. I am putting one im my EMT right away.

[RC Crazy]

lets just say i play hard:D Ya i did take note of that hole, i think i will cover it duck tape. I acualy got a rock in the hole and it was pretty good size. It took a huge chunk out of my belt. I got this optional urithane belt and it seems to be lasting.

[kojak61]

The urithane belt is for on road only. It is much weaker than the stock one. The hole in the back is the biggest reason the rear belt gets messed up so fast. I placed a piece lexan over it and my rear belt last much longer.

[Usagi]

have good luck with belts, not a problems its those crappy arms I had problems. oh they are bad.

[kojak61]

boil the arms for 10 mins. I have not broke one yet. And have taken some mean jumps on a BMX track.

[Usagi]

Yes thats what I did. :)

[RC Crazy]

lets see if i can post a picture of my RS4 MT. (still learning)

[RC Crazy]

I'll try it again:

[RC Crazy]

OMG i cant belive i got it to work!!!!!!!!!

so happy!!

Anyway it has:

*A 12 turn stratos motor

*clodbuster tires and rims

*LRP Super Reverse speed control

*16 tooth pinion for Better acceleration

Im going to get the 19 T motor ment for the E-Maxx made by trinity (I forgot the name) for better climbing because it doesnt go to good with the huge tires.

[xSANGREx]

yO...was wondering what would you guys suggest getting/buying to increase the MT punch. I have decent off the line punch but would like to get more. Thoughts would be Appreciated.

My Set-Up:
-Tekin Gx9 Supersonic Esc
-Phantom Motor
-Airtronics XL2P Radio
-2000 pack
-Top Shaft Pulley
-Front Top Plate
-Graphite Rear Shock Tower
-Ball Bearings
-Heat Sink Motor Plate
Robinson Racing Spur/pinion

[offroader]

Just wondering if everyone is happy with there Electric RS4 MT's? What seems to be the biggest problem you are having or have had...like with things breaking and stuff. And would you recomend it for someone else?

Any help you guys could give me would be great thanks.

Paul

[RC Crazy]

Ok first thing is that it runs motors and ESC very very hot, mostly the motors. I bernt through a speed gem 2 motor in 6 runs. I have only had problems with the roll pins in the lay shaft (shaft that holds the 2 belts) and can easly be fixed with a right sized nail or a allen wrench cut to the right size. The roll pins are halow in the middle so it was obviouse that they would brake. Also the truck is geared for motors of 12 turn or lower so thats why many people say its slow because they run stock motors with the siplied gear which is for 12 turn or lower motors. Other thaen that, good luck and if you buy it, have fun.

[RC Crazy]

O yea i would deffinetly recomend it but it cant be raced because theres no class for 4wd 1/10 electric trucks but as a back yard basher its awsome.

[sofast]

They may let you race the mt, if you make it 2wd.
just a thought

-sofast-

[iadevil]

Some tracks have a 4wd class or if you get 3 or more together, they will let you make your own class. Just a thought

[C.C.C]

sup guys, i am currently on a project :)

10 T speed gems
super rooster
10cells(not ready yet)
custom chassis
custom rear brace(4-40 rod ends with RPM ball cups)
custom front brace(carbon fiber)
ball bearings(not ready yet)

well :) i;ll try to get pictures :)

[nascarfreak88]

hey can i take off the front belt and just have the rear wheels being underpower????? see i want to race in the same class as my friends Evader so we can race together, and i would imagine they would seperate 4x4s from 2wd stadium trucks.........:confused: :confused:

[kojak61]

Anybody run on road and if so what's your hot setup?

[kojak61]

nascar running mt in 2wd sucks, it just spins out alot.

[BJAMMIN]

I know this isnt the for sale thread but are any of yall interested in a HPI RS4 MT? I am going to sell mine...... I have electronics for it and everything. I can send you all the info and pics if you email me at Bjammin101@aol.com
thanks Ben

[ag2001]

IM INTRESTED, depends on ur price though, im a kid and want to get into rc, so as you can imagine, im low on cash. let me know your price.

[EMT^Racer]

hey guys,

has any1 found a WAY to use the inner body without it melting the electrics? im running a reedy 14t motor, stock gearing (22t 96sp) and an LRP bullet. other guys think its fast, but personally i want it fasTER. ive also got bow ties on it.

now ive tried drilling several holes around the front of the inner body (near the little driver) that are roughly 1cm wide and it isnt really helping. i was thinking maybe someone had a trick or something to increase the air flow. i once put it on when i had a 13t in there and it melted the wires!! smoke was flowing through the holes and everywhere! anyway, i really like the inner body and prefer it rather than my f150, especially when jumping! any ideas?????????

[EMT^Racer]

btw, my reedy motors a 14x2 and im running sanyo 2400 sticks.

only a few hop-ups, but essential ones too ;)

front chassis brace
robinson racing topshaft
ball bearings all around
hard blue springs up front
super firm purple springs in the rear

[creep]

How tight should the belts be? This is my first belt driven RC (besides the micro) so I dont know how tight they should be. Also, why is the RS4 MT the ony kit HPI sells without bearings? If I had known that I would have ordered some when I ordered the kit. As for the inner body, I was going to cut BIG holes in it and Tape or glue some fine mesh screening inside (the kind for screen doors and windows). I heard that HPI will replace the chassis if it breaks, is this true?

[evanbio]

Hey everyone. I am just now looking at getting into RC. So far, my research and pocket have pointed me towards either the Traxxas Rustler or Stampede. I know that they are almost the same vehicle, but am still looking for input. I'll mostly be using it for backyard bashing and probably lots of BIG jumps. I've heard some Stampede guys jump theirs around 31 feet. How well does the Rustler handle big jumps? like 3' tall and higher? or is the stampede probably more what I'm looking for. Thanks for your help guys. Hope to be talking with everyone about mad jumps and hop ups soon.

evan

[ag2001]

i, myself are not a big fan of the 2wd monster truck stampede. and ive seen some vids of the rustler doing some big jumps, id say the rustler, but if you feel like u need a stampede, go for it, they are both tough as nails

[nIkKo]

What does everyone like a about this?

[nIkKo]

the stampede is a rustler with a bigger tranny and mashers.

[EMT^Racer]

Originally posted by creep
As for the inner body, I was going to cut BIG holes in it and Tape or glue some fine mesh screening inside (the kind for screen doors and windows). I heard that HPI will replace the chassis if it breaks, is this true?

I ended up cutting parts out of the inner body and using silicon to glue some fly screen on the inside. it looks awesome. doesnt cost much to do either. as for the difference it made...well i cant really tell but i do feel safer with it now.

one other thing, the body becomes really really flimsy when ur done.

guys! im getting a new motor next week. it looks to be a Team Orion Core Stock. i was gonna go for a 13x3 Core Modified but for the price id pay im too worried its gonna overheat just like every other motor. Stockies are efficient and have the most torque which is what this truck needs. it also means i wont need to gear down, but up and we all know the EMT cant go lower than a 18t pinion :p

[SkyLineGTR]

i am thinking about getting the HPI RS4 EMT, do u guys suggest it and if not wat do u suggest?

i think it has a real nice layout and chasis design....

[Philly's Finest]

i'm thinking of starting to race my emt at the lhs. which stock motor would oyu guys suggest & gearing? also are ti turnbuckels a waste or do you think they are a good hop-up for racing?

[B!!!]

Wow, no one has posted here in a long time.

RC Crazy, how did you get those Clod Buster wheels to work with your truck? Are they a direct fit, or did you do something to make them fit?

Anybody? Anyone?

[anothermbdusted]

hey i got a question for all you guys and gals out there with a HPI MT. Back in june 1999 RCCA show a prototype of a 4wd buggy that they might make and well its been 3 years and no go so i was wondering if there is anyone that has tried making one or if there is a way to do it? i mean can you just buy the truck get shorter shock and then the buggy wheels or what any clues would be nice to hear.thanks for your time everyone

[B!!!]

I think Tamiya makes a 4wd electric buggy. I can't remember the name though. It's easier than converting something else.

[anothermbdusted]

well my question was has anyone tried or is there anyone known of doing this type of conversion befor on a MT?I dont care for tamiya off road cars as for they are like toy cars.I could go buy a xxx4 or a cat 3000 or a yokomo if i wanted to but i like to be differnt and try and beat other people with things that are not ment to be what they seem. What i mean by that is i had a traxxas rustler that i turned into a bandit no big deal as they are basically the same but i raced it in the modifed class with other cars such as the xxxcr ke and b3's and the fireblade and i always was able to seem to compete with them even though i only had a traxxas vehicle. So i guess what im saying is i would like to know if anyone has tried this or is it possible does anyone know?90% of local track is losi from what i could remember and then 1 cat and 1 yok so i think it would be cool to have a conversion car such as a hpi 4wd buggy competeing against them.

[B!!!]

I suppose if you are up for the challenge... Have you checked the HPI forum? I don't remember anyone actually trying to make buggy out of an electric MT, though someone did with a nitro MT. I'm still kind of new to this though...

I can't imagine what you would need besides buggy type wheels and a buggy body (to fool the competition ;) )

[02edge2wd]

Does any one use the 2 speed trany? If so do you recomend it? thanks.

Dave

[B!!!]

I don't use it. HPI doesn't recommend it for off road use, and I believe you cannot use reverse. For me, thats 2 good reasons NOT to get it. Other than that, I've never heard anyone complain about it.

[02edge2wd]

Ok, thanks i did not know you could not use reverse. thanks for the help.

Dave

[creep]

Heres my MT. right now the body is thrashed but I have made a new body mount for the rear w/2 body mount posts.

[B!!!]

2 rear body mounts? How'd you do that? I like the bug body! I've got one myself - it's way bashed and I have repaired it numerous times.

http://www.slapmafro.com/images/monsterbug1.jpg

I don't actually use these tires on my EMT...

[creep]

I screwed two Tamiya body posts from a Wild Dagger (the straight ones) into the top inner shock mount holes. Then I put the body on and found that it will shift side to side. I did some digging and found that the top bumper brace from a TBO1 C/F chassis set fits perfectly over the body posts and the fake engine on the bug body. Now all I have to do is drill the bumper strap out and mount it all up. This could take a while since I got GTA:Vice City yesterday:D

[B!!!]

Cool!

Oh JEEZE! I completely forgot about VC! I'm guess I'm running to the store today! Time to forget about RC for a while! :D

[wrenchguy]

You know what I don't get is how close the rear belt is to my motor. It seems to get more wear from rubbing on the motor than from anything else. I'm running a Trinity Ruby, Any suggestions? If a different motor would work better, what motor would be faster if I'm using a standard Rooster ESC.

TTFN

[creep]

How should I gear it for running Masher 2000s?

[B!!!]

Yes, I also don't like the positioning of the motor in relation to the rear belt. And replacing the rear belt is a pain! You could try a little bit larger pinion to move the motor out a little, but my motors are already getting very hot with the standard pinion/spur ratio. I did tighten the rear belt by one notch and I've had pretty good luck with that - so far.

Gear ratio's for Mashers? I have no idea. For those big Clods I geared way down with 32pitch gears. 7.0 pinion/spur ratio, but those tires were really heavy. I couldn't imagine that you'd need gearing like that for Mashers. This might help you figure it out though: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/calculator.asp

[wrenchguy]

I have'nt tried a bigger pinion yet but I have the belt about as tight as I care to go. All motor cans are the same size are'nt they? Could I possibly change both pinion and spur gears to achieve the same result as stock gearing but get the belt farther away? Maybe I'm dreaming.

TTFN, Wrenchguy

[B!!!]

You can get larger and smaller pinion gears, but the 96t 48 pitch spur gear that comes stock with the EMT is the largest you can get. I did hear there were bigger ones somewhere, but I haven't found any.

[viper7016]

First off, is a speed gems 2 17t going to be good enough to get descent power and speed? And can you use a 7 cell hump pack in this car? thanx

[wrenchguy]

I use the 16t ruby and 2400 mah batt. and it scoots pretty quik, Ive been wanting to upgrade speed controls from the Rooster but have'nt had the funds. I think you can use the 7 cell if you take the left side brace off temporarily.
TTFN, Wrenchguy

[B!!!]

I've tried 15t, 19t, and 27t stock motors in mine, and so far I like the 27t P2K Pro or P2K2 Pro the best, but I haven't seen much difference in performance between them. My main reason for the stockers is because there are no capacitors to solder on and they seem to run cooler. My 15t melted.

I've never tried a 7 cell, but have wanted to (without buying one). I think you can get one in (like wrenchguy said) by removing the left side brace, but it depends on where the hump in the battery is. One of my buddies has a 7 cell, but the 7th cell is arranged so that it won't fit under the beltway in the center.

By the way, I get very decent power and speed.

[B!!!]

Wrenchguy, did you ever try a bigger pinion to move your motor away from the belt?

[wrenchguy]

I agree with B!!!, I don't care to have any xtra items to solder either, but there are some pretty good modifieds that don't need any soldering done to run them, I feel I get the best money spent on better batteries, my $40 2400 goes twice as fast as my $15 1500's do. I guess it depends on what you are doing with it, I just bash around the house with mine, and hope to bash with a Savage soon.

TTFN, Wrenchguy

[wrenchguy]

I still have'nt tried the pinion yet, will most likely wait until my belt breaks again before I try. Does it have to be a certain pitch, and what tooth count did you say again?

TTFN, Wrenchguy

[B!!!]

It will have to be a 48 pitch pinion gear - very common, you won't have any trouble finding one. The stock pinion gear that comes with the EMT is 22t, anything bigger will push your motor out a bit. But keep a close eye on your motor's heat because it will have to work harder to move your truck. Your top speed should go up a bit.

There's a chart in the back of the manual that gives motor recommendations for pinion/spur ratio combinations. For the stock gear ratio, it says a 12-13 turn motor is recommended, however, I melted a 15t with this ratio so I'm not sure how much I trust it. Though now that I think about it, I was using Dirt Hawg tires and not the ones that came with my kit, and that effects the final drive ratio...

[Megatron]

I'm new here, but I used to hang out in HPI's forum. Here's my EMT. It's for (off- road) track use only.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid4/pce565ad49cb8c5594a816f8296d3fbaf/fe51ca4c.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid4/pf9118d66d4d9728832c6cde7db4795cf/fe51ca6a.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid4/p435fa8ef741f6878cc679e994624c26e/fe51caa0.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid4/p658244ce13edb1c0384c131dbf97f43d/fe51cad1.jpg

[wrenchguy]

That's a cool EMT, looks like you have a lot of money into it . I've wanted to do a lot of anodized parts like that but it seems HPI has discontinued most of them for the EMT. How does it fair on the track ?

[B!!!]

That's an EMT? What chassis is that? Looks sweet!

[Megatron]

B!!!: Thanks. That's what 's left of the stock EMT chassis.

wrenchguy: I really didn't put all that much $$$ into it. The chassis is stock, and all the anodized stuff (except for the turnbuckles and the shocks) were ripped off my old Pro 2. The turnbuckles are HPI. The shocks are Duratrax 1/8 units from one of their monster trucks. They were like $16 a pair, fully assembled, threaded and purple anodized. I also bought a ball diff for the rear and a one- way for the front to get rid of the understeer.

It FLIES around the track.

[B!!!]

It doesn't look anything like my chassis. Looks light though!

[B!!!]

Another question (possibly stupid): With the one way diff, can you still reverse? And does it help understeer a lot?

[Megatron]

I would assume so. When you brake or reverse, the diff just spins freely- it doesn't move the front wheels. The rear wheels still pull backwards, though. It does improve cornering alot, especially under braking.

[TrickSpeed]

Well just dropping by now that the hpi forum is no more.

Megatron: You said that most of the parts are from a pro 2. Does that include the motor plate?

B!!!: About your comment on the stock gearing. 12-13 turns sounds way off for stock. Hpi usually recommends 17 turns for all their stock gearings. Maybe it was a print error.

On my end i have my new winter/rain esc, a mtroniks rv15. Its waterproof and shortproof, and cheap too.

[Megatron]

The motor plate, the belt tensioner arm thingie, the front steering knuckles, the rear hubs, and the rear bulkhead were all off of my Pro 2.

[twisted]

hello to all, i am new to this forum. i am about to purchase a elec. mt and was wondering if you guys new of anyone thats makes stronger shock towers?

[TrickSpeed]

Stronger ones???

You could buy the graphite shock tower, and bolt it on top of the stock one. Or buy the ally ones that are made for the nitro mt.

[twisted]

are the nitro mt shock towers compatable with the electric mt?

[B!!!]

TrickSpeed: Not unless they misprinted all of the manuals. Here's the chart from the HPI web page:

http://www.slapmafro.com/images/mt-23.jpg

The graphite shock tower (rear) is part #705. I don't know if there is a front one available. I must say though that the regular stock one is plenty strong. I've done a lot of really large jumps and haven't broken it yet. Though maybe if I wasn't bottoming out all the time I may have by now.:)

[twisted]

i am not so much worried about it breaking but more in the way of flexing.i dont have my mt yet and to me they look like the shock towers would flex. i no the nitro ones do!

[tripplefatty]

I have had both ..nmt & emt & the emt shock towers are not like the nmt towers..why??..but there is very little flex with emt

[tripplefatty]

could some one please help me with the gearing that i will need for a 14t double(im looking to get out of the hole hard & have good top speed)im running the stock spur (97) i have looked at the chart that is posted on this thread,but dont have alot of time to play with pinions(it snowing here & will be for some time)the 25 pinion feels like the motor isnt winding up ..or out...i also tryed 22, 21, 18 & they seem ok but i think im off on the pinion...maybe a 23...could some one..lmk
thanks for your time

[twisted]

hey tripple its snowing were i live too! doesnt that suck!!i think if you dont have a bearing kit maybe the drag created from the bushings is causing you to not acieve full speed.the punch would not be affected as much as the top speed with the bushings. maybe somone could post what they are running for gears with mod motors.

[TrickSpeed]

Hey guys i want to make an announcement. I am getting aluminum front braces made, and people intersted can get one too. They will be the same thing as the graphite front brace but aluminum. They will be 3.7mm thick (if that doesnt eliminate the flex nothing will!!!) and will be made out of 6061 T6 aluminum. The price will be around 20 dollars, and will be something pretty unique for your truck. If you are interested drop me an email at BOOSTMONSTER@aol.com

[TrickSpeed]

tripplefatty: What tires are you running? bearings?

[tripplefatty]

i have bow ties on losi rims & no bbs,will be getting a set from tower , but for now bushing..so what do you think

[twisted]

well i order up a rs4 mt baje version today with bearing kit. any other "mods/upgrades" i should invest in?

[creep]

Doesn't that suck? The baja bug is the only kit HPI makes that doen't come with bearings:mad:

[tripplefatty]

all the rs4 emt need bb,but what about the gearing quetion???could some one LMK

[twisted]

tripple have you tried a wide viriaty of different pinions?

[B!!!]

Originally posted by twisted
well i order up a rs4 mt baje version today with bearing kit. any other "mods/upgrades" i should invest in?

I would get the heat sink motor plate first (after the bearings), because motors tend to run pretty hot in that little area that it sits in. I melted a 15t double before I got the motor plate.

Next would have to be the Robinson aluminum ball diff for the rear. The plastic pulley on the stock diff will wear down fast if your belt starts slipping. I've had zero problems with the front diff and belt.

The HPI chassis brace is nice and adds some stiffness to the chassis. It will help keep your front belt tight and prevent slippage.

Titanium turnbuckles... extra A arms... and more pins for the topshaft pully - I've broken all three pins in there. In fact, skip the pins and cut an allen wrench up to make pins. Much stronger than those silly hollow pins that come with it. I wish Robinson still made the 1 piece topshaft, that would have saved me from taking mine apart at least 3 times.

Don't forget to boil your A arms for 10 minutes. I'm not exactly sure what this does, but I haven't broken one since doing this.

Tripplefatty, it sounds like you have tried most of the possible pinion combinations out there. Maybe a different motor would help? By the way, I'm totally not an expert at this but am just throwing out the question.

[twisted]

hey b, when you say pins on the top shaft you mean the ones that hold on the pullys?and thanks for the help!

[tripplefatty]

ok thanks for your time

[B!!!]

Yeah, the pins that hold the pulleys AND the slipper clutch have broken on mine. Someone else said they cut a thick paperclip to make more pins, but I used an old allen wrench and I haven't had a problem since.

[TrickSpeed]

So I take it that no one is interested in aluminum front braces?


tripplefatty: tell me what tires you are running and i'll tell you what pinion to run.

[B!!!]

Thought you guys might like this: :cool:

http://www.slapmafro.com/images/snowangels.jpg

[twisted]

thats nice b, with the inner body does the truck stay pretty much dry? i would like to get the new m tronics speeo, water proof!!i have about 8 + inches of snow here at the moment!

[B!!!]

No, it's got a little wet in there. Nothing real serious though. Snow can still get in through the steering area and the battery door. I have my ESC and receiver ballooned, so I wasn't too worried about a little water. I'm not about to start water skipping though. :D

I'd also like one of those waterproof MTronics ESCs, but unfortunately my current speedo keeps working so I have no excuse to get one. Maybe I should remove the balloon?

[twisted]

your speedcontrol doesnt overheat with the balloon?

[B!!!]

I don't check it very often, but it hardly ever gets beyond warm. I've been running it in the balloon for a while now, in warm weather too, and I haven't had a problem.

[TrickSpeed]

hehe, i have an mtroniks waterproof esc. Now i need to wait for rain... its not like the mtroniks esc's are so expensive, i got a 15 turn forward and reverse for 44.99 at hobbypeople.net. Think of it as an ivestment in protecting your better esc's and the purchase gets real easy:D

[twisted]

trickspeed, i plan on ordering the 75.00 one in the near futur. how do you like it? had it wet yet?

[twisted]

oh ya, b!! what motor speedcontrol combo you running? what speeds ya getting too. thanks

[Megatron]

Originally posted by twisted
well i order up a rs4 mt baje version today with bearing kit. any other "mods/upgrades" i should invest in?

You will also need some RPM ballcups. The stock ones are terrible, and pop off if you hit ANYTHING.

And to get rid of ALL the excess steering slop, get rid of the little metal link in the steering assembly and replace it with a small turnbuckle with two ballcups on the end. Otherwise, it won't handle all that well.

[twisted]

thanks, ya i noticed the metal link in between the steering arms, riminds me of my first grasshopper!

[twisted]

me again, does anyone remeber or know the part number to the old robinson top shaft?

[B!!!]

Twisted, the speed control I am running is an LRP F1 Pro Reverse Digital with no motor limit. It's pretty spendy but it's been super reliable and it stays cool.

I've been running a P2K Pro motor lately, which seems to do the job well. I think I like my P2K2 Pro better because it may have a little more top end, but they are both excellent motors. And I haven't melted one yet.

The part # for that Robinson Racing Topshaft is RRP1527. If you find it anywhere, let me know! I'd love to have one!

[twisted]

thanks b!!!

[twisted]

hey b, i found one new in package on ebay!!! $19.00 i bought it.he had it listed as pro 2 so i needed to ask. his id on ebay is: brainboyjr , he has alot of hop ups new in package for hpi cars. maybe he has another one. check it out.

[B!!!]

Thanks Twisted, I'll keep an eye out for one on eBay. Let me know how it works!

[twisted]

will do b!!, i got the rs4 mt on fri day afternoon and had it put together by that night. had one slight problem with the slipper fitting on the top shaft. had to do a little reaming to get it to go on.other than that the kit went together real well.now if i could get rid of all the snow around here!

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by twisted
now if i could get rid of all the snow around here!

arrgh, you guys are lucky, today was the first sign of rain for us. Heck it's still in the low 60's over here. And I can't wait to have some fun in the rain and mud with my mtroniks esc.

[B!!!]

I'm kind of excited for a bit more snow around here. So far, we've only had that light dusting (half inch maybe) to play with. I've even got some paddle tires all glued up and ready to go. Plus, I got some skis for the front axels that I'm dying to try out.

By the way, dead batteries make excellent hand warmers! :D

[twisted]

well i just came in from running the new rs4 mt today in my street.i put a 13 tripplein it with 20/96 gearing.seems to do about 30-35 mph.it was boreing just to go up and down the street but what am i supposed to do with 12 " of snow? time to waterproof!

[TrickSpeed]

Yay for me - Went to the LHS today and ordered a graphite front brace, and graphite rear shock tower (since i broke the body mount on the stock one, and felt like splurging anyway). I'm gonna turn the mt into a race truck for the spring. Now I need some new race tires and a body.

Still no real rain (sunny this afternoon :mad: ) , low 60's around here still (well then again thats not such a bad thing either).

[twisted]

trick speed, i like the idea of a rear graphite shock tower but whats the sense if youcan't upgrade the fron as well? i ran mine today,weather is getting a little better here,still alot of snow.the mt does not really get all to wet with the inner body. i also put a small scrap piece of lexan behind the front steering rack to keep and snow from splashing the esc.reciever is in a balloon and the servo is a high torque metal gear water proof hitec!i will soon be ordering the m tronics esc. :D

[TrickSpeed]

Well it would be really hard to make a graphite front shock tower, since it is not a flat part. Its like how the pro 3 people wanted a graphite chassis but it is way expensive since it is a tub. Molded graphite would be nice though (unless you want to start your own rc company and make us some graphite fronts ;) )

P.S. The graphite rear shock tower is dirt cheap for such a big tower, only 13.99 at tower hobbies, and as as cheap as 11 bucks on ebay.

[twisted]

most of theflexing is in the front tower though.

[TrickSpeed]

Actually, a good idea would be to make some sort of add-on brace for the front tower..... I just may have to try to make one and see if it works.

[twisted]

ya i thought about that myself.i was also thinking of a way that maybe you could cut off the acual tower and leave the part that covers the front diff and make a shock tower out of a stronger material.the only problem with that idea is how to mount the new tower without making the mounted part the point of weakness.hmmmmmmmm....

[B!!!]

You know, I just saw some kind of brace that someone made for the NMT... it's was a bar that goes between the front and rear towers, but I think it was more to keep the chassis from flexing. I don't remember where I saw it now, but I'll take a look and see if I can find it again. Are you talking about front to back flex, or up and down?

[B!!!]

Ha! Found it at Wolf Pack Radicals (http://www.wolfpackradicals.com)

Here's a picture of it on a NMT:
http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/assets/images/autogen/a_MTw275.jpg

Here's the brace itself:
http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/assets/images/mt_brace604.jpg

I don't know if this will work on an EMT, or if this will even prevent the type of flex you are talking about, but it may be worth looking into.

[TrickSpeed]

Wow that is one terrible idea if its a chassis brace. If its attached to plastic shock towers it wont do any good, just put more lateral load on both towers, and wear out the screw holes on each tower. Maybe on ally towers and bulks it would work, but not on any plastic. At the least it would have to mount to the bulks, and even then its pretty much a waste of money.

The flex i was thinking was in any direction on the front shock tower, especially near the top where it goes into a V shape. I was thinkin of a plate bolted onto the back of the tower, which would stop (in direction): up/down, side to side, and marginally stop back/front (which back/front flex is little since the only thing that would induce it would be the slight angle at which the front shocks are mounted).


And on the west coast, RAIN! Beautiful, wet, rain! I've been waiting so long and its one helluva storm too :D And its not stopping anytime soon! Time to have some fun with that mtroniks esc. You guys should be seeing snow soon too.

However, the rain has killed all commutes. I wasn't able to drive to SanFran to pick my parts up, since i didn't want to wait an hour and a half to get on the bridge (yeah, horrible traffic in the rain), and another hour to come back on that bridge. At least i get a free car wash out of it. ;)

[B!!!]

Yeah, I was thinking that this wasn't what you are looking for, but I thought I would throw it out there anyway. I don't know if it works well or not - I've never heard one way or the other.

[metalry101]

Hey guys, what's up? I have an RS4 MT with a few mods. I put bearings in it, and I have the 2-speed, even if I don't have a fast enough motor to use it. I have a Novak Rooster so I'm confined to 15 turns or more, and my Rush 15x2 doesn't shift it. Anyways, I want to sell it, and I was just wondering if anyone in here wants it. I'm guessing most people in this forum already have one, so if they want another one, or if they want one for their kids or whatever, mine's on the market. Here's what I've got for it.
-Novak Rooster ESC $75
-Team Orion Rush 15x2 motor 20
-Duratrax Ball Bearing Set (installed) 25
-HPI 2-Speed Trans 55
-Stock HPI V-Groove tires on HPI chrome 5-spoke rims 0
-Proline Masher 2000 tires on black HPI 5-spoke rims 50
-Hitec Lynx Sport 45
-Kit 145

Ya, I think that's about it, and that comes to like 415 or something, but ya, I'm thinkin I'll sell it for about 225. I'm not sure yet, and I don't know if that's everything, but if your interested e-mail or something. I can get you all of the info you want, and if you're really desperate I could try to get it to you by Christmas.

[TrickSpeed]

:rolleyes: Hmm, i think i'll limit the addiction to just one for now.


I did manage to creep my way to the lhs today and get my hop ups. And boy is the rain one helluva storm. Traffic on the bay bridge was going at about 20-30 (normally its 55-75, and even the crazy drivers didn't have the balls to go fast today), and at some points the rain was so intense you couldn't see the hood of your car, and barely make out the tailights of other cars. I had the high beams going trying to get reflections from the cars in front of me. You northwest guys are in for a LOT of snow when it gets to you guys. You better get your paddle tires ready, B!!!

The graphite rear shock tower looks sweet, and it will look even sweeter when i get some purple screws (this truck is gonna give me diabetes :p ).

[twisted]

hey trickspeed, did you run the mtroniks in the rain yet? just wondering becuase i ordered one (the dual motor unit) thursday night.what other hop ups did you get?

[TrickSpeed]

Actually you just reminded me I need to charge my batteries for tomorrow morning. Thanks.

So I have not run it in actual rain, but i have tested it with a spray bottle, and it worked fine the whole time. I got the graphite rear shock tower, and (hesitantly) the front graphite brace (since i've been devising a way to seal the belt train front to back. I'm upgrading sort of slowly right now. But my complete hop ups include:

RRP Aluminum Top Shaft (yeah, thats right, i've got one :p )
Graphite Belt Tensioner Side Plate
Dynamite Red Seal BB's (these were hecka expensive, but need no maintenance)
RPM Heavy Duty Ball Cups
Spring Changes
Locked rear diff
Graphite Rear Shock Tower
Graphite Front Chassis Brace
Misc. Purple bits
Drilled new hole in the motor plate so I can run 14t pinions with little rubbing.
Scuffed the motor plate with sandpaper to get rid of spots and stains

Futaba 2PC Radio
Mtroniks RV15 ESC
Trinity P2K2, P2k, Monsters of touring 15t, Kyosho 550 can 22turn, Trinity X Star.
Trinity Zip Pack 1500mah, 2 Peak Power Maxx 2400's in White Shrinkwrap (btw these are very dissapointing packs, very flat. Dont buy the ones with the white shrink, get the new ones in blue shrink and you shouldn't have problems)


My winter projects:

Front and rear skids
Seal Belts
More hop ups (Lunsford Ti turnbuckles, Heatsink motorplate, Better servo)
Graphite battery hold downs + rx mount.
And a new body.

[twisted]

well since you listed your hop ups i will do the same.
1.team associated teflon shocks front and rear.
2.full bearings
3.rrp top shaft (i have one too)lol
4.soon to be m tronics speedo (novak dualy now)
5.2400 balistic raced matched packs(left over from race days)
6.various mod motors mostly all trinity speed gems.

future mods/upgrades:
i want to make my own heatsink motor plate by cutting an old snap on motor heatsink and attach it to the motor plate.
titanium tie rods.
i also want to get an aluminum side plate instead of the plastic unit.i have seen them on the rs4 cars but can not find one anymore.
maybe some losi smasher tires,or even some 1/8 scale wheels and tires.
i would like to get a body to sit higher on the chassis like a monster truck and less like a stadium truck without the inner s of the chassis shown.

[twisted]

i also have a hi torque hitec metal gear ball bearing servo.

[fishman156]

Does anyone know if the Powerline bellcrank for the nitro MT fit on the electric MT? I don't see why not but would like a second opinion.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ55&P=7

[B!!!]

I don't think it will fit. The NMT and the EMT have different steering systems, and I don't believe they have any common parts.

NMT: http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/nmt/n_mt-9v2.jpg

EMT: http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/mt/mt-9.jpg

[twisted]

i think the only parts interchangable with the two are the arms and the rear shock tower. i dont know why they dont make more aluminum for the electric version,i would like to get the side plates off the rs4 2 for mine.the part were the belt tensioner fits. more aluminum in that area wopuld be better for heat disapation.

[creep]

I would like to find some too.

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by twisted
i think the only parts interchangable with the two are the arms and the rear shock tower. i dont know why they dont make more aluminum for the electric version,i would like to get the side plates off the rs4 2 for mine.the part were the belt tensioner fits. more aluminum in that area wopuld be better for heat disapation.

The aluminum side plate from the pro2 fits the emt. They didn't really make that many 3rd party EMT hop ups because it never really got the sales that HPI or the aftermarket hoped. HPI really is the big player in emt hop ups. I should go look for my old RCCA issue where they have a huge HPI hop up list, and what fits the emt.

[TrickSpeed]

Shared in the RS4 family:

Steering Arms (whole family including NMT)
Front Hub Carriers (whole family)
Rear Hub Carriers (All except Pro 2, Racer 2)
Rear Bulkhead (All Except NMT)
Motor Plate (all electrics, tc plates will fit EMT but you cant use spur protector)

[twisted]

thats some valueable info trick,thanks

[twisted]

hey trick i wouldasume that is excluding the new rs4 pro 3, correct?

[twisted]

hey is anyone ever having problems with the pinion gear coming off and stripping the spur? this has happened three time to me and i am using quality tools to tighten the set screw down.is it becuase the spur is so far away from the motor plate that you dont have enough shaft of the pinion gear to grab the motor?
HELP :confused:

[B!!!]

That happened to me once. Usually, my pinion stays. You could try a tiny bit of threadlock on the set screw. Just a tiny bit should keep it from backing out.

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by twisted
hey trick i wouldasume that is excluding the new rs4 pro 3, correct?

Yeah thats right. At the time the guide came out (november 2000), hpi was only up to the pro 2 and Nitro MT.

[twisted]

hey b!! i have tried the threadlock already.i think its becuase the motor plate is so far away from the spur,not enough shaft on the motor for a good bite.

[B!!!]

Strange. You could be right though - I don't really care for how the pinion isn't on the shaft all the way either, but I've only had that happen once and it hasn't happened since. Maybe your screw hole is getting loose? (Wow, that sounds bad :D) Time for a new pinion? Or maybe a new set screw?

[twisted]

well i found the problem! i just recently bought a rrp top shaft and when i installed it i did not seat the bearing in the side plate(one with belt tensioner) all the way in,so the top shaft was at an angle! i seen it when i was looking at the truck from the front.well two spurs later. lol

[twisted]

got the m troniks today an all i can say is wow!this thing is built like no other.it has no case,its got a heatsink on the bottom ,i have yet to use it but if it works as good as it looks its gonna be nice!

[fishman156]

Does anyone know of someone or some where that may have a RRP top shaft for sale? Also, does anyone have any Idea's for removing the cheap metal steering joint, I have the Ti turnbuckle from the sevo to the servo saver but still have a lot of play from the steering joint. Thanks

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by twisted
got the m troniks today an all i can say is wow!this thing is built like no other.it has no case,its got a heatsink on the bottom ,i have yet to use it but if it works as good as it looks its gonna be nice!

told ya it was worth it :D



fishman156: RRP Topshafts are VERY rare nowadays, since RRP has discontinued them. Your best bet would be Ebay, or find a hobby shop (a lonely one), and ask if they have any. As for the steering, just purchase another turnbuckle and ball cups for the z-bend wire replacement. Maybe someone knows the correct length?

[twisted]

fisherman, i just got one off ebay brand new last week.so it pays to keep an eye on ebay.

i ran the new speedo tonight and i like it alot. i did have one problem.earlier when i stripped out the origanil spur i went to the hobby shop and the highest they had was an 91.i grinded out the motor plate so i could get a better range of gears but i did not grind enough away so i was stuck with a pinion that over geared my motor.to make a long story short i melted the endbell off the motor!!! :mad:

[twisted]

i just got back from bashing.all the snow is gone and it was close to 50 degrees out. anyway i ran 5 pack through the mt today with the new m tronicks speedo.the first 4 packs i was pleased with the speedcontrols performance and i liked its design.well on the 5th pack about half way through it the motor cut out and then came back.well i did not think to much of it so i ran it some more and then it cut out again and a large plume of smoke came rolling out from underneth the body.to say the least i am not a happy camper.it never thermald,i ran a 14 double and the speedo is rated for 11. so it looks like i have to send it back!:mad:

[TrickSpeed]

If the motor cut out for no reason, it was probably a thermal, epecially if you were still overgeared. Did you run 5 packs straight? Or did you let the truck rest between packs?

[twisted]

i dont think it was a thermal becuase the motor cut out briefly about a second if that,it was more like a glitch.i wasnt over geared either. i grinded down the motor plate where the screws go through so i can go to a smaller sized pinion.i let the truck cool down in between runs too. this has got me scratching my head.

[EMT^Racer]

hey guys!

been a while since ive seen an EMT thread! stupid hpi stuffed up their forums with that new system :mad:
btw, i was poopz on the hpi forum

glad to see a few familiars; megatron, b!!!, trickspeed etc

anyways, im getting some lundsford titanium turnbuckles this week... mmmmm shiny... and some heavy duty ballcups to go with it. do u guys notice that with the stock setup of stock shafts and ball cups the front tires have toes out? when i first got my mt i thought it was for cornering and when the suspension comes into play, but now im thinking it would be better wif toe in for traction :confused:

once i get the new turnbuckles all will be good. at the moment, its EXTREMELY hard to get toe in as the ball cups virtually fall off.

[B!!!]

Hey EMT^Racer, I always thought that toe out in front was a little better, but I'm strictly a basher and don't really care. However, if you replace the wire piece in your steering linkage with a turnbuckle and ball cups, you should be able to get the toe in you want without the cups falling off. Besides, that wire linkage thing is weak and will bend, plus it adds some slop to the steering.

Twisted, is your ESC still dead?

[twisted]

speedcontrol is dead as a doornail. :mad: i emailed m troniks and have not heard from them yet. not to worried as i have three more speedos. :D

[EMT^Racer]

b!!! im a basher too and i dont really notice it, but when it comes to tire wear im a bit cautious. i replaced the wire in the steering wif a turnbuckle ages ago. i didnt wanna lengthen it because i thought it would put more strain on my servo. and plus, its a bitch to take off :)

but it doesnt matter anymore cos im getting turnbuckles and long hd cups :D :D :D

[twisted]

emt racer,with more toe in in the front on a 4wd you will have more on power steering and a push when off the power.you can still adjust the stock tie rods to get 0 degree s of toe in,but lunsford is the way to go. dont go drastic on toe in or toe out as it scrubs off your high speeds.i have raced for over 10 yrs and i just bash now. i find that 0 degrres of toe works the best for everday bashing.

p.s. i started project mt jump truck! well its not really a project but more of an on going improvement for jumping.the first thing i did and it really has nothing to do with jumping is i replaced the body.not with just any stadium truck body.i dont like how low the origanil body fits on the mt.i made some custom body mounts and mounted a proline chevy stampede body.now it (the body) sits above the wheels and not between them.next step is to make some inner side plates to attach to either side of the chassis to keep debri out and to hide the sides of the chassis.(the origanl inner body got destroyed when the m troniks decided to light up) thuis shopuld also help in the cooling process. well thats enough from me! :D

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by twisted

the origanl inner body got destroyed when the m troniks decided to light up)

Well seems to me that was your problem, esc-wise. You dont need to use the innerbody wit a waterproof esc, and using will just cause alot of heat to build up (which was probably a big factor in your esc failure)

[twisted]

i used the inner body with the mtroniks to keep dirt and rocks out of the belt area.ever have a rock chew up a belt? anyway i figured that the speedo had a thermal overlaod so if it got to hot it would shut off.

[TrickSpeed]

Well today was fun. Out of nowhere came the predicted storm, and what a storm! So naturally I charged up three packs and headed out to further test the Mtroniks waterproof claim. I ran a 15x2 geared at 18/96 (i'm a torque junkie), no inner body, and the F-150 body mounted as low as possible, along with my TRIKSPD liscense plate :)

Well I found a good spot with plenty of puddles, a sort of hard packed sandy dirt surface. Take the truck out, flip the switch, and let 'er rip in the pouring rain. Lots of fun on pack one, although it started to pull to one side under acceleeration (later found out i had lost a doggie, but found it). On to pack number two. More fun but it like to spin the rear tires alot, no problem since the rear diff is locked. When the time came to swith to pack three, I was getting worried since the receiver was not waterproofed, the motor looked like it was about to short out from the water, and just general wetness throughout the whole truck. Pack number three was the suicide test. I decided to run through a little flow of water straight up it and back down. The Mtronkis never even hiccuped, even though it was very wet and muddy. Then came disaster! The rear diff decided it was hungry and ate the rear belt. :mad: So halfway through pack three i called it a day and packed up, since i was missing a frotn doggie, and didn't want to run fwd. I found that dogbone as i was packing up on the muddy ground. Now as I look at the truck, the rear diff area is packed with dirt and the such, but a rear belt is well worth the fun I had standing in the rain running the truck.

The Mtroniks is still wet, I will just let it dry off on its own, now that it has proven its waterproof claim. Overall a very fun day :D

[twisted]

i have yet to hear back from mtroniks on my speedo problem. glad to hear yours is holding up! mine was never a wet issue i think it was more due to a manufacturing problem (i hope)
trickspeed, did you have any problem with the reciever getting wet?i coverd mine in a balloon, and put some silicone around the crease on the servo. i have not run my truck since day befor xmass eve.we got pounded with a snow storm here in ny, over a foot! i hate snow. :mad:

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by twisted

trickspeed, did you have any problem with the reciever getting wet?

Hehe, I was scared as heck I would fry it since it wasn't waterproofed at all, and was just sitting there all wet, but luckily nothing happened (knock on wood). For a while I was thinkin about packin up since I was sure I was gonna fry the receiver or the motor with all that water. No innerbody either (dont have one). Before I would use a balloon and a zip tie, but since I didn't expect rain I just took it out as is.

However the rear belt roke, and on further inspection, it looks like it was slipping periodically (about half the teeth on the belt are flat), and it finally slipped until it could slip no more (the diff and pulley ganged up and ate it). Oh well, it was due for replacement anyway, so at least it went out in its most glorious moment. :p

Snow just means its time for paddle tires! And it sounds like yours was a dud, since I was running a 15 turn today wih no problems (although I had it geared low, the motor only got warm).

[twisted]

ya im not sure what went wrong with my speedo.i did contact hobby people tonight though. i usualy dont bother with were i bought it from cause 9 out of 10 times they will tell you to go to the manufactur. i contacted them becuase i seen on the receipt that they ohner returns ,wether it be manufacture problem or wrong item. so hopefully it works out either that or it looks like i ate $80 .











:rolleyes:

[B!!!]

I'm ready for the snow!

http://www.slapmafro.com/images/SnowEMT.jpg

Of course, it's been about the worst winter ever here in Minnesota. I can still see my lawn! :mad:

[twisted]

hey b!!! you need that were i live! last year we had no snow at all and this year we are getting pounded.today it did however rain all day and the snow is pretty much gone.i smell some bashing c'ming on!

[twisted]

well went bashing today!....broke it today! :D i really havent looked at it yet but i do know that the dog bone is bent at atleast 30 degrees!

has anyone gone for a different look with there mts?like mounting a regular style pick up body on it a little higher and maybe some larger tires? just wondering becuase i have started to do so. just ordered some imex g hawgs. soon as i get a camera i will get some pics up!

[FTR]

hey guys. i know you are all after the rrp top shafts ihave 3 brand new in package. anyone want em?

[B!!!]

Twisted, I tried some massive clod tires on mine once:
http://www.slapmafro.com/images/monsterbug1.jpg
...but that didn't work too well since they are very big and very heavy. I had to gear way down just to move the truck around without frying something inside.

I tried some Mashers once (a friend let me try them out), which worked ok, but I liked the performance of the dirt hawgs better. No matter what I try, I keep going back to the dirt hawgs.

[twisted]

looks pretty cool b!!! to bad it did not work out.belts skip with them on there(clod tires)?i cant imagian the chassis touching the ground either when the shocks fully compress. i am in the process of making my truck a little better.so far i have done:
1st stage
full associated shocks
rrp top shaft
full bearings

2nd stage
chevy stampede body by proline
custom body mounts to mount body up a tad bit higher
custom inner body made from .20 lexan covers just the front half of chassis to keep electrics splash proof and still allows air to reach motor.also acts as a side skirt with the body being up in the air so you dont see the sides of the chassis.kinda of like when you do a body lift on a real truck they give you little skirts to cover up the frame.
i also screwed a motor heatsink to the motor plate to help cool down things.
:D

[EMT^Racer]

hey dudes,
the EMT is goin into hybernation :( ive decided that tomorrow im getting a T3. i could bomb up the MT but theres no real point cos itll still be heavy, hot and the belts are always a concern.

so it stands at:
full ball bearings
hard blue springs
purple firm springs
rrp topshaft
graphite front brace
front alloy c hubs
ti turnbuckles

if u think about it, the EMT can have heaps more hopups but most of its eye candy, so i might as well invest in another wicked truck.

EMT... meet ur brother, T3 :p :p :p

[B!!!]

Twisted, keep us updated on your projects. I'm particularly interested in seeing the new body on there. I've heard that the EMT isn't really "body friendly". On the other hand, I saw this in the HPI Euro-forum:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid44/p87ff52a3d4cdfdaadae58a6e68867081/fce0194d.jpg

Some guy made it up for his 4 year old son... Turned out pretty cool!

Racer, good luck with the T3. From what I've seen they are extremely tough and will take quite a bit of abuse. Rear wheel drive though... how are you going to manage?? :D I went through the same pains and ended up getting my EMT a brother Savage!

[twisted]

hey racer good luck with the t3. i had one but only raced with it never bashed.a bash truck to me has to be 4 wd.

b!!! i bought a new proline f150 body today.the reason i think alot of people call the mt not user friendly with bodys is becuase they try different bodies in the stock form.i took some traxxas rustler body mounts and attacheched them to the shock towers on my mt. it easy and cost 6.00 for the mounts.the best thing is i did not have to cut or drill anything on the mt just used existing holes. as it stands as of now its about as big as a stampede with masher 2 ks on it.
i had a full blown thunder tech racing pede and that thing rocked but it lacked in one area it was only 2wd. i am hoping with the mt i can meet the thunder tech stampede quality and have 4wd.

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by FTR
hey guys. i know you are all after the rrp top shafts ihave 3 brand new in package. anyone want em?

How much do you want???

[creep]

Are the HPI universals or MIP CVDs stronger than the stock dogbones? I lifted my MT with RPM long ball cups on the shocks but can't go as high as possible or the dogbones rub the outdrives. They need to be stronger because I'm also going to be running Masher 2Ks. and dont want to be buying new universals or cvd's every other run.

[B!!!]

I haven't been too impressed with the MIP Shiny CVDs. I mean, they have been all right, but I thought they would be a little tougher than what they are. I bent one of them too.

http://www.slapmafro.com/images/cvd.jpg

This is a picture of one of my front CVDs where it connects to the axel. See the little pin and how the hole around it is really big and is actually pushing out? That can't be good. Of course, I've had these for a while and I beat the snot out of them like I do everything else. Maybe this is just normal wear and tear.

[B!!!]

Ok, I know what you're thinking. Maybe if I cleaned them every so often, my CVDs would last longer. :D They don't look too shiny. Actually, it's not as bad as it looks. After taking the picture I photoshopped it and upped the brightness and contrast so you could actually see the pin and hole. Sure, there is a little gunk in there, but no that much.

[twisted]

i usualy prefer a cvd but i have had no problems with the stock dogbones other than a slight bend in one but for 6.00 buck i got to more!
stupid question here,has anyone ever made a full roll cage for there mts? i think it would look pretty trick.

[X-Metal]

I need some help with motors. I am getting a RS4 MT elec and would like to know what type of motor I should get. I am looking at the "Trinity P2k2 Stock Motor" or " Trinity Midnight 2 Stock Motor".

I am not up on motors so any help would be great. If someone could tell me how the "turns of a motor" works that also would be great.

JAson

[TrickSpeed]

P2k2 definately. The midnight 2 design is starting to get pretty old, and unless you can get a discount or something there isn't any reason not to get the p2k2. My personal favorite is the original p2k since it has more torque. But I've heard that team orion core stock even beats the p2k in torque.

If you want a kickass motor with no work, look into buying a fantom (fantom is a motor tuner) team stock motor (or the LE if you can find it). It'll be a tuned and tweaked P2k2 ready to go fast out of the box.

Winds: The higher the number, the less rpm's and more torque. The lower the number, the more rpm's it has but less torque.

Ex: 27 turn has okay rpm's but lots of torque. A 9 turn has gobs of rpm, but little torque. ( 9 turn is faster than 27)



creep: Get the hd dogbones for the NMT. They will be a load stronger than any cvd or universal. Although I want cvd's, since i'm not gonna be running low winds they should be fine.


B!!!: aren't you supposed to cover that joint with heat shrink? I thought i saw it somewhere, that you could put some heatshrink tubing on there to keep the dirt out.

[twisted]

trickspeed ,excellent description of motor turns.

B!!! they make cvd "booties" that cover that area. i forgot who made them, maybe racers edge.

ok get this!anothor snow storm hit ny. about a foot +.not to worry,my bashing buddies and i found a very nice snow free place to run. up by our lake we have a paviloin.a building with a roof and open sides. anyway there is about a 300 ft straight away and about 20feet from side to side. the only snow is on the very edges.
to make a long story short i was running down the straight (14 turn double) and hitting the edge of the snow and doing 4wd drifts very fun! last battery i was coming down full speed and hit one of the supporting colums side ways with the truck. did not feel to bad till i drove away. truck ran half of fast almost as if it was "hung" up.
went home and found out that i broke,well cracked the chassis where i hit the colum,now i need a new chassis!:mad:
and the motor broke the copper wind! nice

[X-Metal]

So by what your telling me I want a lower turn motor for my mt. I think the lowest I can go with my Tekin Rebel is 16.

O and also what does it mean if it says 16x2? I don't know what the "x2" means.

Thanks again
Jason

[B!!!]

Heat shrink and booties? That's all news to me. The CVDs didn't come with anything like that, and I've never seen it before. I wasn't really all that concerned about the dirt though, just mainly how they seem to be loosening up in the pivot pin area.

Besides, breaking a CVD isn't nearly as bad breaking your chassis! Dude! Time for the Carbon Graphite Chassis?

[twisted]

lets see if i can do as good of a job as trickspeed did.

16x2 = 16 turns ,how many times the copper wire is wrapped around the com.(trickspeed nailed it when he described the power)

the 2 stands for double (duh)lol and basicly you have four different types to choose from. example- 16x1,16x2,16x3 etc..

now what does all tht mean.to break it down remeber how i said 16 = the number of turns the wire is wrapped around the comm? now when you have a 16x1 ,a single strand of copper wire is wrapped around 16 times,for a 16x2 two strands of wire are wrapped around the com and then 16x3 three peices of wire is wrapped around the com 16 times.

for power it goes like this, the smaller the second number on a motor (16x2) like the 2 the more acceleration you will have as you go up in the number like a 16x4 you will have less acceleration and a litlle more top end and the power band is smoother.

with the mt i like to run a double.as of now iam running a 14x2 and it gives me everything i am looking for.

i hope i did not confuse you. if any one could help out with my poor excuse for an explanation it would be great!

B!!! go to www.racers-edge.com they make cvd booties.
p.s think the graphite chassis is a better chouce then just a stock?
hpi has a no breakage warrenty on there chassis to.:D

[X-Metal]

I may have to read that more then once to get it all. :D

Thanks alot
Jason

[twisted]

sorry i even confuse my self somtimes.lol

[TrickSpeed]

Originally posted by X-Metal
I may have to read that more then once to get it all. :D

Thanks alot
Jason

Alright, let me give this explaining thing another shot.

16x2. Don't worry about the specifics. The lower the first number the faster the motor, but with less toque.

x2. You can see x1 x2 x3 x4, and sometimes up to x6 (peak does this on some motors). The higher this number the more rpms the motor will have.

So, 16 (the big number to look for) and x2 (a less significant number, in which the higher the number, the more rpm's)

A 16x4 will have slightly more rpms than a 16x2, but the 16x4 will also have less torque. I recommend not going higher than x3 for a truck, but try to get x1 or x2)

Let pronounce:

16x1 = Sixteen single
16x2 = Sixteen double
16x3 =sixteen triple
16x4 = go back and choose another motor.

[TrickSpeed]

twisted: send your chassis to HPI for a free replacement.

[twisted]

ya thats what i ment! :D

[twisted]

i plan to but i need one in the meantime.
done anything new to your truck?

[TrickSpeed]

Nah, haven't had any extra money after buying led's, materials, and a digital camera. But on the plus side I will now have a digi cam and be able to post pics.

About the chassis, there are a couple of graphite chassis on Ebay. That is about the only place where you can get them anymore.

[creep]

Originally posted by TrickSpeed




creep: Get the hd dogbones for the NMT. They will be a load stronger than any cvd or universal. Although I want cvd's, since i'm not gonna be running low winds they should be fine.



But I wanted to Lift the truck some more and the dogbones are are rubbing the axles. I figured that CVDs or universals would eliminate this problem.

[twisted]

if anything the cvds would not allow the arm to go down anymore than a dogbone.

trickspeed lets see some shots of this mt you have!!

[twisted]

went to the hobby shop today and bought some rpm talon rims for the new imex g hawgs and a set of piggy back resivors. project mt is coming around!

[TrickSpeed]

Well the camera is on its way, bought it online. But as soon as I get it I'll give you guys a couple of shots.


creep: Hate to tell ya, but If you lifted it up that high, CVD's or universals would fall out.

[twisted]

creep: remeber when you do icrease the ride hieght that you always want the chassis of the truck to touch the ground befor the shocks bottom out.if not bad things will surly happen.
hey whos surly?:D

[twisted]

just built the progresive piggy backs. i was a litlle suspicuos of how or if they worked but i can tell you that after building them i can see a difference in the shocks with the resivors and the ones without.(purposly built two and left two without the resivors for comparising)the resivor shocks are much smoother and consitent,also no air in the shocks.

what they do is,when the shock compress the oil disperses into the resivor .the oil befor having no place to go was more likely to get airated.
if any of you ever had associated shocks you know that they are very hard to build with absolutly no air in them,this is where the resivors come in.one time build and no air.
this is just an educated guess but i think iam on the rite track. i like em!

[creep]

Ok, I guess it's tall enough then.:D

[twisted]

how much ride hieght do you have now creep? i have at least 2" from ground to chassis without a battery in it. thats also with proline dirthawg tires.

[TrickSpeed]

Yea creep, how high do you want it. I can make the rear of mine 3.75" and the front 3.5" on dirthawgs. So that would be 4.25" on the rear and 4.00" on the front if I ran masher 2000's. Its a real pain to run that high, since the truck constantly tips over. Right now I'm running about 2.25" on bothe ends.

[twisted]

are you guys running the stock shocks?

[B!!!]

No, I got some associated shocks. Couldn't tell you which ones, but I think they were for the T3.

[creep]

Mines about 2.75'' high from ground to bottom of chassis w/stock shocks and Masher 2Ks. But the way I have it now, the front dogbones start to bind at full lock left and right.

[twisted]

creep, turn the dual rate down on your radio if you have that option.

[TrickSpeed]

I've got the stock shocks on, but with RPM HD Ballcups on the end of the shocks.

[twisted]

heres a couple of pics of the mt project jump truck.

[twisted]

heres the inner body

[TrickSpeed]

Are those pics from a video camera?


I've been thinking about making an innerbody out of styrene and metal screen. It would have styrene where the normal innerbody looks like it has tubing, and metal screen everywhere else for ventilation.


Offtopic: Why are some people so self absorbed that they fail to notice that the world does not revolve around them? I told you guys that I bought a digital camera online, Ebay specifically. In my checkout I said I would pay by money order, and all I wanted was an Email confirmation before I would send out the money order.

A week later I had received no emails from the seller, so I shoot off an angry email at the seller. At this point I was really Pissed off because I had stayed up until 1:30 AM when the auction ended to win it, and I wanted my dam digital camera. The seller Has the nerve to call me at home and start to scream her mouth off at me about the email. I hung up.

She then emails me saying my email was threatining and a bunch of other things I should not say on this board. Then to conclude her email she makes some personal comments about myself (again not allowed by the word filters on this board). Damn right I was threatining, in the standard way for sellers who wont cooperate. I never made any personal comments, so I dont see why she feels she needs to.

So I still want my camera, so I bite my tongue and send an apology. After that I go send the money order, with Delivery confirmation. I know when it arrived, so I shoot her an email asking how she will ship the camera, and around when can I expect it ( so I can be on the lookout for it, I dont want it on my front porch all day unprotected).

Then today, she has the nerve to say that I will cease communications with her. According to her I am too intense for her and she is not comfortable with my intenseness. I am thinking "*** all I want to know is when will I get my freakin camera". I still want my camera in one piece, so I say I will not email her anymore, all I want is the tracking number when the item ships.

And on top of all this, she keeps ending her email with things like "the world already gives me enough crap, I don't need anymore". What an A-hole. She uses that to justify being a complete moron to me, and acts like I am the cause of all of her problems (apparently she is in a bad living situation, but WTH should I care, that is still no reason to shoot her mouth off at someone).

I tell ya guys, If I didn't want the camera I would just drive the 5 hours to her living situation and tell her what I really think. But I did get a good deal on it, so I will just leave some bad feedback. But the thing that really gets to me is how far some people have their heads up their u know whats, that they cant think of anyone but themselves. I send normal emails, and I get crap from her. Arrrrgh!! :mad:

[twisted]

trickspeed,sorry to hear of your bad experience on ebay. i too had just had one.i had made a purchase and had sent out the money order the next day.i also emailed the guy becuase i like to be prompt,i never got an email from the guy till three days later.at this point i had already emailed him like 4 times!

a week had passed after the last contact and i emailed him once agian and asked him if hr received the mo. no reply that day.next day he emailed me(th day befor xmass eve)and said he got the mo three days ago and had no time to send out package and would do it the day after xmaxx. argghhhh.so i waited ...and waited.. still nothing in the mail and it was after new year!

i am thinking this guy took me!so i look up his number and give him a call.he said he went on vacation and gave the package to his buddy to mail out but his buddy forgot to. oh my god!he still had it and its almost a month after i bought it.he told me that he was sending it out this monday and was also going to giveme a refund on shipping.

package came yesterday and was as describbed,but i had no refund like he said! some people :mad:

[EMT^Racer]

elo elo elo,

have u guys seen this gpm alloy steering set? its for the EMT. too bad its not purple :p and i dunno if the steering brace is graphite or not (for those without the hpi graphite brace)

btw, i didnt end up getting the t3. changed my mind at the last minute and figured id go for an electric touring car instead. still havent decided which one. the ones i like are over priced and the ones i dislike are the cheaper ones.

i replaced the yellow ring on my slipper clutch today. the trucks going really fast! but my rear belts due for a change, and has anyone used aluminium a arms b4???

[twisted]

i have never used aluminum arms becuase if you hit anything with the arm it will break the next weakest part in line,like the suspension mounts.thats if you dont bend the arm.

[TrickSpeed]

digi cam got here today :D

[TrickSpeed]

.

[TrickSpeed]

And this little guy keeps me busy indoors. It's a Nikko I-Racer, infrared, digital proportional.

[twisted]

nice quality pics there trickspeed. what type of camera?cost?also nice truck but i think you need some of these on there!

[twisted]

they are hard to see but they are piggy backs. pic was taken with friends new vido camera and he is still learning how to use it. :D

[tripplefatty]

you need a set of these...LOL :D

[TrickSpeed]

I wish I had a set of Giant Tracs, tripplefatty. But that doesn't count since they are on a different truck (maxx?).

twisted: Piggybacks are one of the best hop ups, and good looking too! But I don't really plan on up grading the stock shocks until they break.

The camera is a HP Photosmart 215. Its the one I got off of Ebay brand new for 73 bucks, but they are about 130 at the store. 1.3 megapixel, and it has amazing quality. I think its the top model from about a year ago. I was shocked that the macro mode worked so well when i took the pic of the mini! I checked the pics out and was going :eek: :eek: :eek:

I can't be mad at the seller anymore, this is just such a good camera.

[tripplefatty]

these tires are on my tc... & how dose this pick look( the ones of the tires...piggys on twisted post were done on my old camcorder..the tires were done on my new camcorder..LMK what you think..I can take it

[TrickSpeed]

The pic of the piggybacks on twisted's post look like they would be about webcam quality. The pic of the Giant trac tire looks very nice quality. How do you transfer pics from a camcorder to a pc?

[tripplefatty]

I plug into the back of the tower & down load on to my computer...from there i can put the pick any were...cant wait to get some videos up
jamie...

[twisted]

the tire came out nice to bad its not on a MT!!!!! :D lol

[twisted]

heres a new pick of my truck.came out better then the ones above. i have a basher body on it today.

[TrickSpeed]

Thats one nice looking basher body. Here is a pic of my other basher body.

[TrickSpeed]

All those specks on the body in the previous pic are mud, mmmm mud. but heres something else.

[twisted]

trick, i like the red body better. nice liscens plate! what ya think of the paint on my basher body?

[TrickSpeed]

I think you've got a sweet paint job on that body! I need to learn how to paint like that. You should send a pic to rcca's reader's rides.

[twisted]

painting's the easy part, masking it all off is the hardest part.thanks for the comment. have any action shots?

[AJC9]

Untill now I have been running a Trinity P2K Copperhead with the stock pinion. Now I've got a Team Orion Pilot 17 turn double. If I'm reading the gearing chart in the manual right, I should be using a 32 tooth or higher pinion with the stock spur. I'm wondering if I am reading it right or not.

http://www.ajc9.com/files/RCPix/EmtBlueDodge.jpg

[TrickSpeed]

HPI royaly messed up on that gearing chart. You should run 22 - 26 t pinion.


Looking at all of these pictures, I think we should start a Dirt Hawg 2's Annonymous Club. Hi, my name is Trickspeed and I've been hooked on Dirt Hawgs for over 2 and a half years. I've tried to kick the habit, but they are just so addictive, I can use them anywhere I go. :D



But I've been having too much fun with my digicam so far. Today I went and took some pics of my bashing spots. These are just a few, I have MANY more places to drive my truck (I love living in the bay area, the oakland hills are one big bashing spot). And wait till you see my school, its just one big bashing spot, its got over 100 feet of elevation change.

[AJC9]

Thanks - it didn't seem right - and its better that way, I have a 24 and a 26 in my spare parts.

I love the Dirt Hawgs, they'll go through anything.

http://www.ajc9.com/files/RCPix/LetItSnow_croped_.jpg

[twisted]

trick speed we have som awsome spots here in ny for bashing. we two tracks off road of couse and two sand pits and a querry.in the winter we go to a school and up at our lake in the pavilion becuase of all the snow on the ground. heres a pic at the pavilion.

[twisted]

woops lol i need to post the pick!

[TrickSpeed]

Nice pics, i wish we would at least get a little snow around here, that would be so much fun. On the other hand the climate here is great, but next year I may be in a snowy location.

[twisted]

that was a pic of a 4wd drift through a snow drift. was fun but i like big air better.

[TrickSpeed]

Well guys the fullsize version of this pic is going to rcca reader's rides, lets see if it gets picked.

[twisted]

hope it does, good luck. :D

[wrenchguy]

Does anyone know if the Powerline Racing aluminum steering conversion for the Nitro MT work on the Electric MT ? I'm sick of all the slop mine has. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Wrenchguy

[twisted]

im not sure if the nitro one is campatable with the electric one or not.
i took the thin piece of wire that ties the two bell cranks together and replaced it with a tierod of the propper length with two ball studs screwed into where the old wire link went and that cleared up all the slop i had. :D