Team Losi XXXT Forum v1.0

[Shady]

Thats what i like about my favorite track, personal transponders, got it stuck on the front bulkhead of my trk, but i still have a transponder mount for the other tracks, doesn't get used that much so it is still in good shape

[racer13]

whoops.

[racer13]

Ok, we need to get this forum running more! post pics of your trucks every one!

[Nutter]

I'd post a pic of mine, but the last time I tried to take the pictures off of the digital camera, my girlfriends computer crashed. :p I'll try again tonight when she's not doing any work on it.


-Nutter

[racer13]

yeah.. you can see where i broke my titanium turnbuckle :(

[dkj-M3]

Any suggestions on the best stock motors, for a very fast track.http://dcrcr.2y.net/dcrcr/images/test&tune/Pano.jpg

Thanks Darrell

[losifreak2004]

Wow I missed a lot of stuff!

Darrell - That's an AWESOME track. Try the Orion Core RS!

If any of you guys have any questions for me, leave them here or on TeamURC's BB (www.teamurc.com), which will get a much faster response... and I'll get to them before I leave for the HotRod Shootout!

Aaron

[dkj-M3]

Thanks Aaron

[losifreak2004]

Anytime...anytime LOL

Aaron

[Yetiman]

Hi Guy's

I'm sure this has been covered at some point. But I'm going to a race in a few weeks that is using the MVP as a handout motor and I've never used one.

My question is where to start gearing wise. I'll be using a 86 spur. I've always heard about the MVP running real hot so pinion choice will be important so I don't smoke it right off the bat.

Also are there any hot set ups as far as springs and brushes that would be good to have on hand for the weekend of racing.

Any input would be appreciated.....Thanks

[losifreak2004]

Reedy 767 brushes, Trinity Red Spring on the positive side, Green on the negative.

Start at 17-18/86 and go from there...

Aaron

[Casper]

Yetiman-- If you are running the shootout at HRH you need to worry more about tires then motors. Yes this motor will get VERY HOT especially at HRH next weekend but get as many runs on those blue tires as you can. Check out my web site for a gearing chart that includes the MVP. I recommend 18/86 for starting but being soooooooooo hot I would start with a 17 and keep that motor on a fan when not in use.

[Yetiman]

Thanks Guy's

Yeah Casper HRH Shootout is where I'm headed. I think we're in for some real hot temps down there. I've never run those blue tires. I hear they are kinda stinky! Compound wise where do they fall? I didn't go last year but I hear practice time is next to impossible with all the entries they get.

I'm going to go race there on saturday just so I can get some practice in. I'll probably just drive back and forth each day and not stay down there so I might have to get some practice in with those blue tires at my home track - SHOWTIME in Bako.


You should come up in Aug for the calif state offroad champs.

Thanks......Greg

[Casper]

Greg-- Yes those blue tires are VERY STINKY!!! One pair is not all that bad but mix 200 pairs of tires and 100+ deg heat and you will want to pack some asprin and a gas mask! ;) :D LOL.

As for the blue tires. They work best when they have about half hight pins. Run the car in the parking lot if you need to. They will not work well out of the bag. If you do not have time to break them in you can do two things. One is cut every other row of pins out in a / pattern. This will accelerate the wear of the pins that are still there or you can cut all the pins in half. Good news is the tires will work better the bad news is they only work really well for about 3 runs then! :( IF you can find me at the shootout I will share some more secrets that helped my buddy get 1st in both classes last year and helped me get 5th in both classes last year.

As for Golden state this year I doubt I will be able to make it to defend our 1-2 finish in buggy and see if we can avenge our loss in truck. We will see though.

[losifreak2004]

I wonder why Losi doesn't make another tread pattern Spec tire for tracks like Hot Rod....

Greg - There is a good chance I will be at the Golden State race...see you there!

Aaron

[Casper]

Those tires almost work which is kind of the point. It is not about having the right tire but being able to drive the car. At least that is what they have tried to do.

[Yetiman]

Are they a real hard compound or are they real soft?

Either way I'm sure Hot rod's track will be a real hard surface.

[Casper]

They are on the hard side. The texture of them is like a lexan glove kind of. They are more on the Silver to pink side of the hard scale. The one thing I do know is that they stink!

[Railman]

Casper, I've not had a chance to check out the blue spec tires. Do you mean they are similar to latex (skin tone), or nitrile (blue) gloves? They don't make lexan gloves that I'm aware of.;)
Joe

[Gutter Ball]

Yep, they stink because they're made from recycled stuff :) If you really want to soften them up, there are two ways that I found work.

One guy massaged suntan lotion into them, 4-6 times a day, for about 4 days. Lather up the lotion on your hands and just massage away. Then on race day, put it on about 1.5 hours before you race and wipe it off about 15 minutes before you are up. Super soft and grippy tires!

Another way we found (quite by accident) is to boil them for awhile. I was racing Spec class last year and found it too slow, so I was going to switch to modified. I was boiling the tires so I could use the rims for my Bowties. It turned out my friend wanted to try Spec, so I took the tires out of the boiling water and we just switched tires. I had to reglue the tires in a couple of places, but the tires became pretty soft. At the track, my friend had the best traction out of the Spec racers.

I don't know which way worked the best, I think boiling them can't be good for them though.

[losifreak2004]

Casper - True, but they could make the tires work a little better and make the racing that much closer to what the drivers making the switch to Expert the following year should expect.

Aaron

[Casper]

Losi only made one set of Spec tires and this is what they thought would work the best in the most situations. You can get these tires to work. As for them working at HRH, Ryan Dunford won both classes last year and his race times were on pace to put him in the A main of expert. Sportsman only ran 4 min so we just figured out average lap times but that just shows you that you can still go fast with these tires. It takes a little more work then just finding the right tire for your setup but then again the best tire to have on buggy is a gold compund tire that you cannot buy anymore.

Railman-- Latex is what I ment. Sorry! :o

[racer13]

Hey guys, i was thinking about buying a pair of Sand paws for my xxxt mfe since i go to the beach a lot ( very fine, dry sand ) i would most likely buy a mod motor ( not sure... ) probably just some thing cheap.. less than $40 well.. what would i really have to do to keep it going when i do? what would i have to ballon, etc... thanks..

[losifreak2004]

Casper - What gold compound tire?

Dunford's A1 time from the 2W class had an average lap of 26.1....Charlie Albrecht's A1 time for the 2W class had an average lap of 24.9.

racer13 - Check out the Panther Paddles! http://www.panthertire.com/NewFileSystem/PantherStore/22Truck/Paddle/paddle.htm

Wrap your electronics in water balloons and zip tie the ends shut. Make sure they don't overheat!

Aaron Waldron

[Casper]

You would have had to look at qualifying. He would have qualified for the A in exp stock not won! My point is that you can go fast. He would have have stood a chance with the top 5 but was on pace to make the show.

[Casper]

Gold Losi compound is harder then silver. That is what Team drivers like MF use in buggy to take away steering for these high bite tracks.

[losifreak2004]

Well yeah, I thought you were talking about some funky rear tire....

Aaron

[racer13]

Holy!! Aaron!! those paddles look better than pro-lines! how much do they cost for a pair?!?!?!!!!

[losifreak2004]

I had a feeling you'd like those...:p

You can buy them from Panther's website at $18.95/pair. Have your LHS call 1-866-700-TIRE (8473) and set up a dealer account.

Aaron Waldron

[racer13]

:eek: cost the same price as the pro-lines and look like they are better quality!!!! :) there HAS to be a catch!?!?

[losifreak2004]

Why would there be a catch? It costs each company about the same to make the tires (actually, slightly less for Pro-Line because they buy more rubber at one time).

The Panther Tires are just flat out better.

Aaron

[racer13]

very cool... so where can i order them? because what if my lhs doesn't want to set up an account or something?? oh well...


OK! I've been looking for a metal front bumper for a xxxt... my plastic ones start accually cracking etc.. after the first few runs... so i want to find a better one.. i dont care if it add's weight etc.. just show me what metal bumpers their are for this car! :)

[Casper]

You can order tires directly through Panther at www.panthertire.com

Also I think hardcore makes a metal front bumper for the XXX line of cars but I am not sure if they actually made it to production.

[racer13]

Thanks Casper! those are going to be awesome!!! should i get the hard compound paddles?? it would be in very soft, fine sand.. no rocks at all.. and i want them to last. thats cool though, only $18.50 a pair! :D

[racer13]

I'm thinking i'm going to need a new motor soon... i wont be racing but i will be playing on the track, praticing.. and bashing. i want some thing that accerlerates fast, and has fast top speeds and stay's cool. i will probably want to buy a mod and a stock that have the same things i want.. the mod will be just for bashing at home, in the sand etc.. so i dont want a really expensive one. Here's my track ( very recent picture ) http://www.amainraceway.com/../images/track/offroad1.jpg

[losifreak2004]

Casper - Thanks for the Panther plug! Wait until you feel the Switches I just got today :D:D:D

racer13 - The Hard Compound will be perfect. A soft tire won't help in the sand, because the paddles will fold over.

For that track, I have to go against what is probably better for me and say DEFINITELY P2K......and for bashing around, one of the Orion 19 turn budget modified motors will be perfect!

Aaron

[racer13]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
For that track, I have to go against what is probably better for me and say DEFINITELY P2K



whats that supossed to mean! :D What about the P2k2 pro?

[losifreak2004]

It means I'm probably better off saying something else...

The P2K has more low end torque than the P2K2, and that is what you would need for a track that small.

Aaron

[racer13]

Ok.. i just took my xxxt mfe out for a little bashing in the back yard, guess what happend? my shock shaft broke out the bottom!! :( im going to take my shock apart and see whats wrong

[racer13]

Ok, i took my shock apart.. found out the e-clips came off the shock shaft and made it come out.. but the shock piston was stuck semi-sideways at the very top of the shock. so i put the shock in a vice and tryed to take off the top peice... my mistake, it wouldn't come off, and instead i smashed my shock in a pancake form!!! :( this really sucks

[losifreak2004]

Those e-clips will NOT come off if they are installed correctly and are in good shape. The oil puts enough outside pressure on the clips to keep them secure in place, and those e-clips are pretty strong.

I have no idea what happened. The most possible reason is that you didn't get it snapped onto the shock shaft. Sorry to hear it messed so many things up!

Aaron

[racer13]

yeah, if you have a threaded shock body for the rear ill be happy to take it off your hands! :)

[losifreak2004]

HAHA

Aaron

[Railman]

Racer13, The top of the shock body doesn't come off! Only the plastic cap comes off.
Did you by chance end up with a loose part in the shock. If you were to bottom out the shock with a loose piece in there it might pop off the e clip. Other than that, I'm with AAron. I've never heard of a piston coming loose. That really sucks that you smashed the shock body. Those aren't cheap bodies! If it was a new kit, you might try telling Losi your hard luck story. They just might help you out. I recently assembled my XXXT MFE, & the shock bodies had riffled bores. I sent them the bad ones & I had the new ones back in a few days. It's worth a call. If I remember right a set of threaded bodies runs about $30.
Joe

[losifreak2004]

Railman - Losi will replace anything that might have been their fault. An e-clip coming loose can't be traced back to the manufacturer unless his is able to prove it doesn't fit tight, or it broke.

Aaron

[XXXTNovakOrion]

Hey Aaron,
How are ya? This is Eddie from the Saturday Series with the busted buggy body :P

[Railman]

Aaron, Your right, Losi has no obligation to do anything about it.
However, they do have the ability to help people out. Manufacturers are interested in good will. The fact that's it's a KE kit might also help. All I'm saying is that it's worth a call, or E-mail. I've heard of a lot stranger things being taken care of.
Joe

[losifreak2004]

Railman - Well, just make sure you catch Bill in a good mood! HAHA

Eddie - What's up? Did you ever get a new body? :p You should have stuck around, there was some good racin!

Everyone - I'm off to Saugus tomorrow at 0' Dark-thirty tomorrow morning, and I won't be back until next Monday afternoon. Wish me luck!

Aaron Waldron

[XXXTNovakOrion]

HAHA
got a new body 5 mins after i talked to you. Shoulda watched all day though, Friend told me it was awesome. Now i get to have fun painting my new Crowd Pleazer MBX :)

[yellafella321]

what bodies from tower will fit a xxxt? I have a mfe but that duzn't make a difference...maybe the crowd pleazer xxx-nt?

[Casper]

Bodies for the NT will not work with the XXX-T. The towers are in different locations.

[Shady]

the only bodies made to fit it are all losi bodies except the pro line gmc and tower doesn't carry it, and ya can't get the losi bodies because of the whole horizon thing

[evader32]

If you really want a new body stylke the duratrax evader body is almost a direct fit all you have to do is put the mounting holes in a different place

[yellafella321]

its not that i ant a new body style, i need a new body...my old one has lots of holes in it...and buying through tower is the only way i can get aorund my parents cuz the gift certificates :p

[Brian_Mc]

I've been trying to go through these over 800 postings about my beloved XXXT, but it's getting rough. Can someone summarize what hop-ups you all use? Tools, replacement parts, etc.

I've already found out about...
- RPM spur gear dust cover
- RPM shock wrenches (a must have!!)
- Trinity Team Kinwald Rear Bulkhead
- Aluminum diff nut

Thanks...

[Exterminator]

A good set of hex drivers are a must have for any Losi truck.
Duratrax,Hudy or similar.
Also a combanation wrench to replace the plastic one that comes with the kit. It will wear out fairly fast.

Tim W.

[Gutter Ball]

Here's what I have:

Trinity alum shock collars, shock bushings, rear pivot, front pivot, front brace, servo holders, servo hold down, battery bar and outdrive savers. Lots of Trinity parts :) None of the blue screws though...not strong enough in my opinion. RPM ballcups and gear cover to top it off. For hex drivers, I use Associated ones.

[yellafella321]

can u give part numbers? :)

[Gutter Ball]

Check the Trinity web site. Most of the parts are Kinwald parts :)

[LosiMan3456]

Do those parts add a lot of weight?

I dont have any on my truck except what came with the MFE Kit. I have the blue pivot block on my buggy. If I add more stuff will it add that much more weight? I am racing in a competitive series right now and every edge helps. That is why I am concerned with weight:D


I have some extra money, and was wondering would it be ok to get a blue aluminum screw kit and put them in low stress areas. Does it some with something to tell me where to put them? What are some of the low stress areas?

Thanks

[XXXTNovakOrion]

the thing i've noticed to add a lot of weight is the blue aluminum washer kit.

[Gutter Ball]

Hmmm...hard to say if they add weight or not. It doesn't seem like the car weighs anymore. I wouldn't use those blue screws. I don't think there are any low stress areas in an RC. Maybe the servo mounts. It's a pain in the butt trying to get the rest of the blue screw out when the head breaks off.

[XXXTNovakOrion]

Gutter:
Believe me...the washers do add up in weight

[LosiMan3456]

Ok thanks. I have a friend who has a XXX and has some blue screws and hasnt had any trouble. I'll take a look at his car. I cant believe washers way that much.

[Casper]

The wieght of alum washers will NOT effect performance!

alum screws are ok for body mounts, the top servo brace and that is about it. I would not put them anywhere else. Also DO NOT put alum screws into virgin graphite. Either tap the hole with a tap, the gold losi tapping screw or at a minimum a steel screw first. Alum screws will snap apon installtion into graphite. You might be able to get away with it but it is not worth the headache when they snap!

[losifreak2004]

evader32 - The Evader body WON'T fit the XXX-T unless you mount the body up higher than the shock towers

The only aluminum parts I use are the pivot blocks. The rest is just for looks, but the blocks add strength. Also, the weight is down low, so it actually CAN help in the handling department.

As far as the washers, the 8 or 10 that would be used to 'dress up' the XXXT won't add much weight, not enough to notice it anyway.

Casper - Good run last weekend!

Aaron Waldron

[Casper]

Thanks aaron-- How did you end up in Gas truck?

[TC3 Benjammin]

Hi guys. I just picked up a new xxxt and finished building it last night. Just wanted to drop in and give some feedback on it and ask a few questions.

I read through much of this thread, but not all of it. I apologize in advance if my comments have been discussed before.

First off, this is the most gorgeous truck I've ever owned. Been in RC for about 15 years now, and I must say this thing looks fast just sitting on the workbench, lol.

Some of the things I really like about it were the quality of the parts, the ease of assembly, the diff, and the SHOCKS. Gosh I love Losi shocks. So smooth, so easy to build. The diff was kind of a pain to assemble, but it is extremely smooth. It seems like it will be pretty easy to adjust later on too (compared to a T3, that is).

Ok, now my complaints (albeit pretty trivial). The first one is pretty bad. They didn't include all of the parts! There were missing nuts, foam thingies, screws, etc. Luckily they were more common items, and I had some in my toolbox. That kinda pissed me off though.

Second, is the CVD parts bag. One of the yokes (the part that goes into the axle) had a teeny tiny burr on it, which would not let the axle/dogbone joint rotate freely. I thought it was mis-shaped, but I finally found the burr and knicked it off. MIP didn't include the grease and one of the axle pins. What a gyp!

Third, the freaking non-tapped screw holes. I've owned an xx4, but it was used, so I didn't realize you had to tap all the holes before you put the screws in. This is a real pain in the ass, and IMO, they should do this for you at the factory. I mean come on, I spend $270 on this thing. Oh well, not really a big deal in the grand scheme of things. Aggravating nonetheless.:p

Now some questions for you guys. First off, the rear ride height is sitting at bones-level right now without any electronics. I repositioned the bottom of the rear shocks to the center hole (manual says to screw them into the outer hole). That seemed to help some, but it still seems way low. Your thoughts?

Second. 25 wt shock oil seemed kinda light to me, so I installed 30 wt. The suspension seems pretty stiff though. Almost like I had put in 35 or 40 wt. What are you guys thoughts on this, and what oil do y'all run?

Third. I have heard mixed things about this graphite chassis. Naysayers have said that it is so stiff that it doesn't flex at all, affecting handling. What are your experiences, and what adjustments will I need to make to compensate for this?

Overall, I am very impressed by this truck. I can't wait to run this sucker! Sorry for the long post. :)

[tarvymoto]

Benj , I don't have the wind to respond to all you comments and Q's but I'm glad you got a Losi...they are the best in the biz baby.

[TC3 Benjammin]

LOL @ tarvymoto.:p

I just got my electronics installed and took 'er for a spin in the street. Got the diff adjusted properly. REAL happy about that.:)

I gotta say that this truck just FEELS good. Of course I haven't taken it out to the track yet, but I just get this feeling that it's really gonna set it off out there. I can't freakin' wait.

Worth the money, worth the headaches.:)

so far...LOL

[WHITESTER1]

Originally posted by TC3 Benjammin
Second. 25 wt shock oil seemed kinda light to me, so I installed 30 wt. The suspension seems pretty stiff though. Almost like I had put in 35 or 40 wt. What are you guys thoughts on this, and what oil do y'all run?


If your track has any roughness to it, I suggest going to a lighter oil.. I am currently running 20wt all the way around. Truck soaks up the bumps well, and the dampening is fast enough to allow the wheels to get back on the ground quickly.

Here is alittle video of my XXXT with the 20wt oil. Track is bumpy, and loose.

Click here (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/modtruck623.wmv)

[LosiMan3456]

Whitester- Didnt u say earlier that u had a Fantom 14x2 in your truck? If So what did u have it geared? Thanks!

[Gutter Ball]

LOL, yes...that damn tap screw :) I swear, when I was done tapping all the holes, I had blisters on my hands and that tap screw was SUPER hot!! I also had a small problem with the CVD, it wasn't spinning nicely so I had to bore it out a bit.

I use 20wt oil in the front with pink springs and 25wt oil for the rears with yellow springs. I think 30wt oil is too heavy, unless it's really hot where you are. I use the same setup for indoors and outdoors. Shock, ballstud positions are all stock.

If you have really big jumps, then I would set the rear CVD's slightly above parallel. Adjusting your shock collars should raise the back end.

For the graphite chasis, I can't say. I'm not experienced enough, so I really don't notice the difference :)

It's a great truck! I'm glad I went with it, and you will be too!!

[BloodClod]

New member to the MF XXXT truck club. :)

The truck really runs great and I'm having a blast. Being more of a MT fan for a long time, I'm enjoying the speed and agility the XXXT offers.

Now for the insignificant question. I love the Fury body and it's all painted and trimmed. I just haven't attached the rear "wing" yet. Looks like it's gonna be pretty flimsy.

I'm wondering if you guys run with the wing and whether you've had any durability issues with it?

Thanks.

[DJ BlendeR]

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone has tried to place a TC3 heatsink on their XXXT? Mine runs really hot no matter what, and I wanted to try putting on one of those heatsinks. So if anyone has tried it, tell me how it worked, any mods you needed to do. Stuff like that. Thanks

[Gutter Ball]

I'm wondering if you guys run with the wing and whether you've had any durability issues with it?

The wing provides downforce. If you are racing competitively, I would strongly suggest putting it on for improved traction. I drilled two holes and bolted the wing on mine. Servo tape didn't hold it down for me.

[BloodClod]

thanks. I'm gonna try to bolt it on somehow but the shape and angle of the joint makes it kinda tough.

[Scrad]

You could also try velcro. It works pretty good for me and if you do crash if won't break off, just falls off.

[gtkx80]

I have steel universals on my xxx-t, and I was wondering if getting MIP ALuminum CVDs would be worth it...
I run on a pretty tight track, and was told that, CVD's work great for tight tracks because of faster spool-up, and Universlas work good for more open tracks because of better enertia/momentum...
I was also wondering if anybody makes titanium CVD's ?????
Seems like the smart thing to do... :cool:

[Brian_Mc]

Where do you race in Texas? If it's Mike's or Indy in DFW then, I've been told that aluminum CVD's are OK for stock, but they'll twist in modified. No experience on my part, just what the locals tell me.

Mike's is extremely tight and both are on clay. Slick when dry, kinda tacky when wet.

Hope this helps.

[saabcaptain]

I attached the wing using some screws left over from an old truck, worked like a charm... it is NOT coming off. Try that.

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by Scrad
You could also try velcro. It works pretty good for me and if you do crash if won't break off, just falls off.

Velcro is okay for bashing...but in a race, losing your wing could cost you your position!! It makes the truck jump funny too. I use servo tape and 2 small nuts/bolts I had lying around. It doesn't come off easily, but if it ever does come it, the wing is toast cause it'll be ripped :)

[BloodClod]

I'm gonna drop by the hardware store to pick up some plastic screws that won't be so hard on the lexan in a crash. :)

Here are some pics of my truck with the reproduced paint-scheme off the box. :)

http://www.cool.per.sg/bloodclod/images/soapbox/xxxt/xxxt_04.jpg

[losifreak2004]

Casper - 14th overall....6th in the B. Not a bad run!

TC3 Benjamin - Are you sure the kit hadn't been opened before? Call Losi's customer service department and talk to Bill Goldsmith about the missing/damaged parts.

A 4-40 tap from the local hardware store will be your best friend the next time you assemble a kit.

Install all the electronics and adjust the shock collars to get ride height. Don't worry about finding another setup, try the stock one...you'll like it!

As far as the graphite chassis, the naysayers that told you it's too stiff didn't know it won the ROAR Stock and Mod Nationals three years in a row did they?

Blender - Never heard of anyone doing that!

I attach my wings with three flat head screws, countersunk washers, and plastic nuts. Coming from nitro racing, you CAN'T have a wing fall off!

gtkx - CVD's will help acceleration because they bind up the suspension when on power and help the car square up, not because they spool faster or anything like that. Run the steel dogbones, and try CVD's if the track is smooth and you need more corner-straight transition traction.

Bloodclod - Sweet truck!

Aaron Waldron

[TC3 Benjammin]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
TC3 Benjamin - Are you sure the kit hadn't been opened before? Call Losi's customer service department and talk to Bill Goldsmith about the missing/damaged parts.

A 4-40 tap from the local hardware store will be your best friend the next time you assemble a kit.

Install all the electronics and adjust the shock collars to get ride height. Don't worry about finding another setup, try the stock one...you'll like it!

As far as the graphite chassis, the naysayers that told you it's too stiff didn't know it won the ROAR Stock and Mod Nationals three years in a row did they?


Thanks for the tips, Aaron. The kit most certainly had not been opened. But whatever. No big deal, just kind of dissapointing.

The tapping issue: I appreciate the advice, but my complaint was about having to tap the holes in the first place. I know how to tap a hole:p.

I didn't think the shock collars adjustment would work because the actual length of the shock was limiting the suspension travel, but it did. Everything is hunky-dory. Thanks.

Graphite chassis: Good point! LOL!:D

[losifreak2004]

Yeah, tapping threads is a pain, and having it come already threaded would be nice, but consider the alternatives:

1. The factory can mold them in. The threads may not always be perfect, there most certainly will be flashing in some of the holes, and they'd spend more time replacing parts with damaged threads than they would selling them.

2. They can have this be part of the assembly line. Tapping a chassis can take almost 10 minutes! When each person bags 300 chassis a day, this would cut down production A TON. (Why do you think the limited-edition RTR kit was just that....limited edition?). Then there is the possibility of a tap being broken off inside a part....the part must be re-made, costing $$$ (bringing the cost of kits up, ultimately) and further slowing down production

3. They could hire 4 or 5 people just to tap parts. Considering $7.50/hour is the minimum wage here in CA (where all Losi kits except the RTR Sport are manufactured) this would raise the cost of kits quite largely.

The reason I ask if the kit had been opened is because Losi weighs each kit box to the nearest tenth of a gram to make sure there is every single nut and screw in the box.

Aaron Waldron

[LEADFOOT]

I have steel universals on my xxx-t, and I was wondering if getting MIP ALuminum CVDs would be worth it...

Try Titanium Racing (http://www.titaniumracing.com)

I know they have them for the AE stuff, not sure about the XXX line.:cool:

[LEADFOOT]

...just checked:D . They do have both outdrives and CVD's in titanium! 40 bones a pair for both.:cool:

[TC3 Benjammin]

Here's a pic of my new truck:

[TC3 Benjammin]

Somebody earlier was asking how to attach the wing. Here's the underside of my wing mount:

[Losiracer]

I didnt attach my wing to my MFE since i didnt read the instructions on where it was and just cut it. doh!! o well i just place the batt. in the back a little ways by putting one foam behind it, and one in front.

[Exterminator]

To all XXXT masters,
Here's some questions I've been meaning to try on the track but haven't gotten the time.

Adding washers under the ballstuds on steering arms?
More washers increase or decrease steering?
or add onpower or offpower steering?

Adding washers to rear links either inside or outside. what effect?

I use the trinity bearing carriers and c-blocks so that changes what effect adding washers will make and I know that it changes the chamber angle. So anyone having experence with these let me know what affect the washers has.

I know there are very fine tunning additions but knowing which way to tune for changing track conditions might be a big help to me and others.

Thank you
Tim W.

[TC3 Benjammin]

Good questions, Tim. I was womdering the same thing.

[losifreak2004]

*cracks knuckles and loosens neck*

Hold on for this one guys....it might be a wild ride HAHA.

This is all in the simplest form possible...

Washers on the steering arms adds bump-steer. This means, going up the face of a jump, the tires will toe-in, and this will help add stability. In low speed turns, this will smooth out steering when the front end dives and make the truck more predictable.

As far as adding or taking away steering, it won't really do either. It will tone down initial turn in, but that's about it.

Adding washers in any point where it will raise the ballstud will raise the car's roll center. This also means there will be less camber change throughout the suspension movement. This leads to slightly less traction, but more predictability when the tires lose grip.

Does that touch all the bases?

Aaron Waldron

[Exterminator]

Thanks Aaron,
Another one of your fine posts to put into my setup book.

Tim W.

[losifreak2004]

:o

HAHA!

Aaron Waldron

[R_C_hoodlum]

Hey, what color parts do all you use, I got the yellow ballcups and rims and blue bumper motor gaurd and body mounts. It looks awsome.
:D

[losifreak2004]

I use all of Losi's yellow parts, plus purple aluminum goodies wherever I can.

Aaron Waldron

[TC3 Benjammin]

I went out for my first time at the track w/ my xxxt. I have been in RC for about 15 years, and I must say: I SUCK AS A DRIVER!!! I have a lot of time under tyhe wheel, but little actual track experience.

I was out there by myself, which was part of the problem. I crashed SO much I literaly had to come down fom the stand about 15 times every battery pack. I got SO frustrated that I went home.

If I would've had someone with me it would've been a lot more fun. Here's my problems:

-I have a stock servo. The truck pushed SO much through the turns that I hit almost EVERY bumper. I had to come down and re-straighten the truck every 15 seconds. First on my list is a new servo.

-Second, rear traction was a *****. The track was loose and dusty, and my tires were NOT hooking up at ALL. Tire recommendations??? Please??

-Third, I was driving with a 14T mod motor. WAY too much power for this track. Need to buy a stock motor.

I set my current limiter on my esc and loosened the slipper, which helped out. I am just SO frustrated. On to the hobby shop!:)

[losifreak2004]

Don't get frustrated! It takes practice!

Was the track hard-packed, with just dust on the top? If so, try some Losi T-Bones. If the track is soft, use Panther or Losi Step Pins.

Aaron Waldron

[DJ BlendeR]

I have the spec truck, so I have blue goodies. I replaced the clear tranny cover with an RPM blue and I have RPM yellow ball cups all the way around. It looks really nice since my truck is painted the same blue color as the partsl, and then black in the back.

TC3 Benjamin, I know exactly how you feel. My servo absolutely sucks. I was using a stock one, then bought a hi torque one, from traxxas (oops), turns out its the T/E maxx servo. My truck pushes so much that my friend, who nearly took state, couldn't drive it. He gave up after one minute. He let me borrow his really nice metal gear, hi torque/high speed servo, but it was too much amp draw and my ESC spazzed out every time I turned and had the accelerator on. I still did better than normal though. lol.

[dkj-M3]

step-pins work for me, on loose & dusty tracks. Your right to get the stock motor & walk the track over, so you know the track. Looking from the drivers stand can be real deceptive. Just take it real easy until you know the track. I wrecked/broke a lot the 1st time on the track too.

[tarvymoto]

TC3 Benj , I am familiar with the Jacksonville track. It can be a bit slick when it's not watered(which they only do on Wed night for practice and Sat for racing). Red Step pins or Ifmar studs are the way to go on that track. The stock T2000's will be a hand full as you found out. Also you probable want some Red Directionals , Razor ribs, or Razor pins for the front . These will make the truck easier to drive , but you will still need to learn how to feather the throttle . Hope that helps and I may see you there when I move back in a Couple of months.
Travis

[losifreak2004]

If Red Step-Pins work, then Panther Step Pins in Soft compound should ROCK.

I've found that Directionals work better on most step-pin type tracks....

When I walk tracks, I always look for reference points in relation to the drivers stand.

Aaron Waldron

[tarvymoto]

Aaron , most of the fast guys in Jvill run Razor Pins but I like the Razor ribs there too. The Panther Steps would rock but I'm not sure if any of the shops there carry Panther. The shops in Jville are : Art's Hobby , Cars Planes & Trains , Hobby World{where they had the 2000 Roar on road nats** Metro Hobby , and Hobby Oasis. Man with all the shops in town you would think you could find some Panthers. I want to try some too...just haven't been able to find'm...I could prob call panther I supose.

[losifreak2004]

Travis - You can order them through their website.... www.panthertire.com

I'll see what I can do about getting you a set to try.

Benjamin - Have your LHS's call 1-866-700-TIRE (8473) to set up a dealer account.

[TC3 Benjammin]

Wow, thanks for the help guys! Travis, let me know when you come back down to Jax.

[XXXTNovakOrion]

is there any other Team Kinwald aluminum parts that actually do anything besides the rear pivot block?

[losifreak2004]

The front pivot block....HAHA.

The zero degree hubs are great for electric, because there aren't really any tracks that are slippery enough to need Losi's one degree hubs. Many people get confused by the roll centers, however.

Aaron Waldron

[dantheman59]

We have a new XXXT Matt Francis Edition using the standard setup described in the instructions and using both the tires and wheels that come with the kit. We have also tried some Proline HoleShots in the rear and a ribbed Losi front tire. An experienced driver at the local track reviewed the setup and confirmed that everything was good. What a nice kit!

We run a P2KPro motor, C2 speed control, and a Hitec metal gear servo, which is the good part. The not so good part is that the radio is a low end Futaba by Duratrax. It seems to have a dead spot toward the middle of the range. I have not had a chance to try another receiver/radio combination yet. However, this is the only mechanical or electrical problem that I am aware of.

What happens is that my son drives on this track that is hard as a rock but with some loose dirt on top. They sweep it and wet it down before each heat but by the time the novices get out there its pretty dusty and loose.

Other XXXT drivers don't seem to have as much trouble as my son, but they are more experienced and problably know to slow down some! What happens is that he will take a turn after a good stretch of straightaway and then get squirrely out of the turn, with the rear wheels swinging out to the side, or even spinning out. We will work on his turns, but is there a setup tip or two that will help him corner? Thanks.

Dan

[Exterminator]

Dantheman59,
If you son's truck is set up the same as others you are racing and your having trouble with the rear end sliding out.
Try moving the top rear shock in 1 hole. this should add a bit more side bite.
Try moving the battery back to take away some of the turn in. and add forward bite.
Try adjusting the chamber to 1/2 or 0 degrees all the way around.
If you have a dual rate transmitter you can try slowing down the dual rate a little. this will help novice's keep from oversteering.

Do one thing at a time and test.

Hope this helps
Tim W.

[losifreak2004]

Exterminator - Good advice! But moving the top of the rear shock OUT will give the truck more forward bite.

Dan - The single largest change you can make to the XXXT MFE to add more sidebite is to replace the stock rear hubs with Losi's One Degree Rear Hubs, Losi part # LOS A-9806. The zero degree hubs included with the kit are designed for high-bite tracks.

Aaron Waldron

[Mr.X]

How does this sound for racing?

XXX-T MFE
LRP IPC Pro Sport
Orion batts 1 3000, 2 2400's
Core Stock ( soon to be a core 12X2)
Futaba Radio Gear
Hitec 645MG servo

Do you think i could run for 5 minutes with a 12X2 and 2400's?

Thanks

[losifreak2004]

At a local level, you're ready to win some races!

5 minutes should be NO problem with 2400's....

Aaron Waldron

[Mr.X]

Thanks Losifreak, I will try my best to win!

[Exterminator]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
Exterminator - Good advice! But moving the top of the rear shock OUT will give the truck more forward bite.

Aaron Waldron

Yes but from his discription it sounded like he needed more side bite. and going in on the tower and putting on panther switches would give him more of both. =)

suspension tune for added sidebite.
Tire change for added forward bite.

Tim W.:cool:

[losifreak2004]

Tim - Sorry, I meant sidebite.

Mr. X - Just have fun!

Aaron Waldron

[whoop_fast]

Ok, I would really like to get a XXX-T, but seeing as they don't make the regular one anymore, and I don't have the cash for the MFE, what should I do? I have looked at the dirt spec, but I really would like a car that I do not have to "hop-up." Does anyone have a reg. XXX-T they would sell, or a cheap MFE? Thanks! Also, what would everyone recommend for electronics for racing in stock class? Thanks a lot!!!

[Nutter]

whoop: are you sure they don't make the standard XXXT any more? Have a look at Stormer Hobbies, I'm sure that they have it in stock. http://www.stormerhobbies.com


-Nutter

[whoop_fast]

If you can find it there, I am amazed. I also just looked on the Losi website, and they don't have it their anymore either. This leads me to believe they don't make the standard XXX-T anymore. So, I think I might just purchase the dirt spec, along with a bearing kit. Are there any other essentials which would make it better to buy a MFE? If so, where can i buy a used MFE or dirt spec?

[dkj-M3]

Try E-bay

[dantheman59]

Yes but from his discription it sounded like he needed more side bite. and going in on the tower and putting on panther switches would give him more of both. =)


Thanks Losifreak, I picked up the 1 degree rear hubs. Did I miss something? What are panther switches? Thanks.

Dan

[dkj-M3]

Does anyone know what size pinion/pinions would be good for a P2K stock motor (not the P2K2) as to not over gear it. I only have the red spur gear that comes with the MFE-XXX-T.

Thanks

[TheRealDudeman]

does anyone have a stock diff i can have or buy i need it for my Dad. i am puting my older XXXT ,THE BONE STOCK 1, together 4 my dad so we can race together

[dantheman59]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
Exterminator - Good advice! But moving the top of the rear shock OUT will give the truck more forward bite.

Dan - The single largest change you can make to the XXXT MFE to add more sidebite is to replace the stock rear hubs with Losi's One Degree Rear Hubs, Losi part # LOS A-9806. The zero degree hubs included with the kit are designed for high-bite tracks.

Aaron Waldron

I am getting ready to install the one degree rear hubs. I notice that there are 3 holes instead of 2 like the original hubs. Which one should I choose? The one located closest to the center of the truck would force me to shorten the turnbuckle a bit, and the turnbuckles are already into the rod ends pretty far. I want to maintain at least a half degree of camber in the rear, true?

I guess I can't visualize what these rear hubs will do for the setup. Right now the ball stud is through the inner hole per the instructions.

Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Dan

[Exterminator]

Dan...

The inner hole is a good starting spot on the trinity hubs.

Panther switches are Tires. They can be purchased online at http://www.panthertire.com/

Hope that helps
Tim W.

[pippy]

Dan: Please let us know the results of the rear hub switch - I have the same problem on the same kind of track.

[dantheman59]

Originally posted by pippy
Dan: Please let us know the results of the rear hub switch - I have the same problem on the same kind of track.

I looked at the hubs suggested above (LOSA9806) and they didn't look right for the truck so I wrote to Losi. They suggested another hub, the LOSA9807 (see below) plus gave some other tips. Exterminator, thanks for the word about Panther tires.

I will let you know how it goes. We might practice on Tuesday but we will race for sure on Wednesday night.

Dan

The hubs you want are LOSA9807. They are 1 degree hubs for the XXX
or XXXT. The hubs you were reccommended are for the XX line of cars and
trucks.
Increasing the rear toe-in of your truck will give you more traction
on the exit of the turn. Here are a couple of things to try.

1. Move the rear shocks in on the arm. Try going to the inside hole with
pink springs.
2. Move the rear hubs forward. This will help with forward traction.
3. Try a softer front spring.

I hope this helps!

Todd Hodge

[saabcaptain]

Hi, all I have a MFE and a simple question...

In this months rags I saw tons of photos of the XXX and XXX-4 cars from the worlds and they all had red aluminum shock nuts on the threaded bodies. The look was great with the rest of the red so I am intrested in finding the threaded nut that is red to replace the black plastic that comes with the kit...

Any ideas...

What else have you MFE guys done to further pump up a theme, red or otherwise...

Back to rebuilding a P2K2 Pro and setting up a brand new P2K Pro...

Dave

[Gutter Ball]

Go to Teamtrinity.com and look under the Matt Francis parts. All the red stuff is there.

[saabcaptain]

Thanks for the quick reply. I found:

TMF1121 Red Shock Collars $7.99

which were listed for the XXX-S. With this fit the shocks on my MFE? Also is it $7.99 PER shock collar? Ouch. Any other ideas for color theme things I can do to enhance my truck... I am going to switch out all the 12 guage for all red 12 guage. Are there any red servo braces or anything like that...? Red Shocks?

Thanks,

Dave

[brittonlj77]

I'm looking into a XXXT MFE and wondered about a few pieces I saw available here and there...

I'm a general newbie at this, but I do know enough to be quite dangerous. *Donning FLAME retardent driving gear* ;)

Would the MFE benefit from the titanium CVD's at http://www.titaniumracing.com/site.html over the MIP CVD's?
Lighter is better right? Especially in the drive train? However, is it a matter of weight and strength in this piece, or the quality of operation? Anyone know of any direct experiences with these?

They also have titanium wayshaft set for the xxxt... any thoughts on that and how it would complement (or not) the MFE?

Yeah I know titanium is overkill in a lot of cases and not inexpensive. I just want to see what you all think about those particulars in relation to an out-of-the-box MFE.

Thanks!

[Gutter Ball]

Yep, those ones will fit just fine and you get all 4 shock collars. I'm pretty sure Trinity will start producing more parts in red soon. Be careful using all red wires though, you never know when you'll be in a rush and reverse them :)

[losifreak2004]

Dan - Sorry about that....I really don't know why I have 9806 written down as the part number for one degree hubs. That's the part number for the CR 1-degree hubs. My sincerest apologies.

Todd is going to LAUGH HIS HEAD OFF when he finds out I was the one who gave you that part number....

britton - It won't make much of a difference. At a stock race as big as the Stock Nationals or Hot Rod Shootout, I would run them, but they aren't going to help enough to justify the $$$.

I am SO embarassed about the hub thing...this is NOT good hahahaha!

Aaron Waldron

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
Does anyone know what size pinion/pinions would be good for a P2K stock motor (not the P2K2) as to not over gear it. I only have the red spur gear that comes with the MFE-XXX-T.

Thanks

Anybody. Help. Please:D :D :D

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by dkj-M3


Anybody. Help. Please:D :D :D

I would go with something between 19-21 depending on your track.

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
Dan - Sorry about that....I really don't know why I have 9806 written down as the part number for one degree hubs. That's the part number for the CR 1-degree hubs. My sincerest apologies.

Todd is going to LAUGH HIS HEAD OFF when he finds out I was the one who gave you that part number....

I am SO embarassed about the hub thing...this is NOT good hahahaha!



Yah, jeez!! What WERE you thinking?!?!?! :cool: It's okay, everybody makes a goof now and then.

[brittonlj77]

Thanks for the feedback losifreak!

I've got a definite sweet spot for those shiny expensive toys... but you're right. :cool:

Now I could use some advice on ESC's.

I'm going to be bashing probably 60-75% of the time and club racing the rest. Reverse would be sweet for bashing, but it seems like it would severely limit the competitiveness on the track (even though it is just club racing). Are there reversable ESC's that are remotely competitive???

Barring that, I've been considering the Dually, as it seems like it is pretty well suited for racing and doesn't cost a mint. But then that little voice in the back of my head says "if I'm spending $95, why not save a little longer and get the Cyclone C2 or LRP 7.1 or whatever... "

I am getting this for the fun, but I do have a pretty competitive streak. I don't like getting less than the best that I can afford (with anything), but I have to be somewhat realistic too, being married and all... :rolleyes: :p

Thanks guys,
Britt

[dantheman59]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
Dan - Sorry about that....I really don't know why I have 9806 written down as the part number for one degree hubs. That's the part number for the CR 1-degree hubs. My sincerest apologies.

Todd is going to LAUGH HIS HEAD OFF when he finds out I was the one who gave you that part number....

britton - It won't make much of a difference. At a stock race as big as the Stock Nationals or Hot Rod Shootout, I would run them, but they aren't going to help enough to justify the $$$.

I am SO embarassed about the hub thing...this is NOT good hahahaha!

Aaron Waldron

Shhh, I didn't mention you by name regarding the hubs! I appreciate you mentioning the 1 degree hubs. Otherwise I would have never known about them!

Dan

[gtkx80]

Man, I am seriously thinking aout getting some of that Titanium stuff !
Titanium CVD's would jus be rediculously fast in stock !!!
and were we race,people break ball-studs left and right !!!
I would get the Titanium outdrives, but I am about to get the plastic outdrives with the Titaium sleeves !!! Even lighter !!!
A titanium top shaft woulb be extremmly nice too !!!

Me and one of my local race buddies have been arguing from day one about titanium, and jus need to get some answers here :
Is titanium lighter than aluminum ??? Because we already have the aluminum top-shaft, and was wonderig if the titanium one would be any lighter...we do know that it would last longer than the aluminum though
Red Man

[pippy]

britton: My advice is to get an all-out racing esc. I bought my XXXT thinking I was going to bash between races, but now I never do because that would wear out parts that are essential to getting me that first place spot (yeah, right). Get another truck for bashing and save the XXXT for racing. It'll save you money in XXXT parts.

[brittonlj77]

Thanks Pippy.

I might save up for the new Novak one... seems like it should be pretty nice. Anyone heard anything else about it (other than what's on their site)? Is it on schedule for August still?

Who would have thought that we would be "overcompensating" by getting the smaller parts... :p

[dantheman59]

Originally posted by pippy
Dan: Please let us know the results of the rear hub switch - I have the same problem on the same kind of track.

My son and I went down to the local hobby shop track for our Wednesday night point series race. We were greeted by a new track layout; 500 ft long (if I heard correctly) with just a short straight section. The most intimidating part of the track is a huge jump coming off of a pretty sharp turn that stock trucks can not make! The interesting thing about the jump is that after landing the track loops around back under the jump so you are actually flying over your fellow racers! Mercifully they built in a bypass for the novice and stock races so there wouldn't be a run on parts at the shop. This track was a good test of the cornering ability of our MF XXXT with the new rear hubs!

The only adjustment that I made going into the night was installing the 1 degree rear hubs. Everything else was stock parts and setup. Unfortunately this didn't seem to help much, if at all. My son was still coming out of turns with his rear end sliding out. Before the race I shortened the rear camber. This made the rear wheels lean in about 3-4 degrees which is quite a bit more than the half to zero degree from the setup instructions. But guess what, he was coming out the turns in complete control! He was very happy with his setup. He called it "perfect." Just what the pit crew (me) likes to hear!

It's hard to tell because this is a new track, but over little bumps the truck seems to flip more readily. Other than that it didn't seem to affect anything else. He had good speed and good jumps. He finished third - not bad for being the youngest racer! Thanks to everybody who contributed suggestions!

A neat part of the evening was meeting Matt Francis himself. He hasn't been around too much lately because of his many travels, but he will be here the rest of the week getting ready for a big weekend race at our track. The guy is very friendly and helpful, just like your typical guy at the track.

Dan

[pippy]

Dan: Cool. I'll try the same thing. That track sounds scary.

[TC3 Benjammin]

Dan, I find it funny that you just posted that, because I just had a "breakthrough" regarding camber changes as well.

As you will note in my previous post a while back, my truck was pushing really bad in the turns. I was about to buy a new servo. Then, last night, I added some negative camber to the front, and the difference is night and day. I am unbelievably happy.

I bought a p2k2 pro also. Never had a stock motor before. It's really not all that different. I was pleased to say the least. Can't wait to hit the track again.

Once I get my new tires (step-pins and directionals), it's gonna be ON.:D :p

[saabcaptain]

I am going to ask the dumbest question in the world now (ducking)... I have always used a P2k2 Pro and P2k Pro motor and have mounted E brushes with solder. That said I had someone give me the eyelet version of the brush and was trying to figure out how to remove the spring posts from the motor. The micro nut is so small and my pliers aren't working. I also have a new P2k brush hood which I want to mount which requires removing the posts but like I said no go...

Thanks,

Dave

[gtkx80]

There should be a small phillips hea screw on the oppsisite side of the spring post !!! thant is where the eyelet of the brush goes under !!! atleast thats where i put mine, and its muc much easier !!!! :cool:


Does anybody have the titanium CVD's by any chance ?!?!?!?
I was also wondering if anybody has the plastic outdrives with the titanium sleeves...I was just wanting to know if there was any difference in acceleration/top speed/run time/motor an battery temp ?!?!?!?
I am eally wanting to get those two items, and advise would muchly appreciated !!!

[gtkx80]

also, would anybody happen to have the titanium top-shaft ?!?!?

[saabcaptain]

on my p2k2 pro the spring post has a small hex nut (impossible to move with needle nose pliers) flush with the top of the endbell on the bottom of the post itself. when the endbell is flipped over i can see flush with the screw hole the bottom of what apparently is a post/nut combination but certainly no philips or flat head screw. maybe i am just looking at the wrong thing. i have cleaned the motor many times and had the comm cut by removing the 2 philips screws to remove the end bell, and there are another 2 philips screws that loosen 1/2 of the brush head covers but the other half appears held down by the spring posts, but with no way to unscrew the spring posts other than i imagine some kind of micro nut driver or something...

i am sure someone will post the ridiculously obvious soultion and thanks for trying, i am sure you are just seeing what i can't... i have fun with this hobby because i am not mister mechanically inclined and this helps :D

[gtkx80]

yes !!! the other two phillips head screws that hold half of the hood on, those are the ones that you take out and put the eyelette of the brush under !!!
You unscrew the phillips head screw, side the eyelette onto the shaft of the screw, and then screw the screw back into the hole and, Vio La !!!!!!
I also use to solder the brushes onto the hood but soon became too troublesome and was like "screw this !! " So I jus started using the eyelett of the brush, makes for a nicer, cleaner motor !!!! :cool:

[saabcaptain]

THANK YOU! That makes sense... it still begs the question, I bought 2 new brush hoods (the entire metal part on top the end bell basically) for my P2k but unless I figure out how to remove the old brush hoods which seem to be held on by the spring post side even with all obvious screws removed I am out of luck.

I too am trying to freshen up the top of my endbell which was beaten up badly by my hamhanded soldering and figured I would start fresh and just use eyelet brushes... I mean for what tiny bit of efficency I might be losing it isn't a big deal because there is no A or B main for that matter in my future anyway.

Thanks again, at least I know how to put on the eyelet brushes now.

[dantheman59]

Originally posted by TC3 Benjammin
Dan, I find it funny that you just posted that, because I just had a "breakthrough" regarding camber changes as well.

As you will note in my previous post a while back, my truck was pushing really bad in the turns. I was about to buy a new servo. Then, last night, I added some negative camber to the front, and the difference is night and day. I am unbelievably happy.

I bought a p2k2 pro also. Never had a stock motor before. It's really not all that different. I was pleased to say the least. Can't wait to hit the track again.

Once I get my new tires (step-pins and directionals), it's gonna be ON.:D :p

Long ago we replaced a plastic-geared Futaba servo with a Hitec HS525MG only because of hard crashes that destroyed the gears on a regular basis, not because we were trying to solve steering problems.

Front camber adjustments, eh? Hmm, too bad my son won't let me adjust his "perfect" setup now! There are so many things to adjust on these trucks. I'm just glad to find one, as I'm sure you are, that really seems to work.

Dan

[losifreak2004]

Gutter Ball - HAHA

britton - Anything from Novak is of the highest quality available in RC. Click here and shop around for "the perfect ESC". http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc/index.htm

Dan - No, I'll tell him who did it the first time I see him. He probably already has an idea anyway...

gtkx80 - Actually, having the heavier steel outdrives will make the truck easier to square up out of corners. You really wouldn't feel a speed difference between titanium CVD's and the steel ones, but the thought in your head would make you think that it's faster.

Losi makes titanium ballstuds. They even use allen wrenches instead of nut drivers!

Dan - All that camber will make the truck catch on ruts. If the truck is still loose, try going 5 wt. thinner shock oil, and one step softer springs in the rear. If you are already using yellow springs, then move the top of the shock out on the tower one hole. If you are on the outside hole, move the inner rear ballstud one hole closer to the inside.

saab - Use 60/40 rosin core solder, and a GOOD soldering iron, like an Ungar or Weller. Soldering jobs get MUCH easier, and you don't have to use that eyelet!

Everyone - TeamURC has some quite groundbreaking news! Check out www.teamurc.com for more details!

Anything else?

Aaron Waldron

[saabcaptain]

Can anyone tell me how to remove the brush hoods from the end bell on a P2k or P2k2. I bought new brush hoods to replace the beat up ones on my motor (losifreak... my soldering is ok but just a burden, the eyelets I am going to try for a while to see if it is a big difference) but I can only loosen half of each hood with the phillips screw, the other side appears held down by the spring post which has a nut at the bottom of the post, but the nuts is so tiny I can't even get a needle nose to turn it. What am I doing wrong or do I need a special tool...

Thanks,

Dave

[brittonlj77]

Originally posted by Gutter Ball
Be careful using all red wires though, you never know when you'll be in a rush and reverse them :)

One trick I learned in PC Modding is to put about a half inch of red or black heat shrink near the end of the wire (obviously leave the bare wire visible at the end). The heat heatshrink should just be covering the already insulated part of the wire. It's just there to remind you which wire is pos and which is neg. This way you can have pretty same-color wires but always know which is which.

The heatshrink is durable and won't rub off like, say a marker might.

Just an idea.


(I was just re-reading a couple pages back, so sorry if this is old!)

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by brittonlj77

One trick I learned in PC Modding is to put about a half inch of red or black heat shrink near the end of the wire (obviously leave the bare wire visible at the end).

Hey, that's pretty neat!!!

[gtkx80]

Losifreak-Thanks for the low down on the titanium CVD's, its just that they are the same price as the MIP's at my LHS and just thought, huh, what the heck...
My CVD's that are on there now are bent to heck so, Iits time for them to be replaced, plusr they ar causing vibration, wich in time, will destroy the bearing !!! I think my LHS also carries the aluminum CVD's also, what would be the advantage ?!?!?!?
Well, all I'm gong to say about the plastic outdrives with the titanium sleeves is WOW !!!!! Man, im telling you, you will be amazed by the snappier acceleration that these outdrives give you compared to the stock ones...both of the plastic ones with the sleeves on, still weigh less than one of the stock outdrives !!!
The diffxis almost lighter than the other gears in the tranny now !!!
I would recomend getting the plastic outdrives, just make sure you get either the aluminm or titanium sleeves because after time, the plastic WILL probably break !!!!
I give it two-thumbs-up !!!!!!! GET THEM !!!

Has anybody replaced the plastic spacer that fits onto the top-shaft ?!?!?!? I dont know if anybody even makes a bearing for it...It surely looks like a bearing, just plastic...I was just wondering because I'm trying to make my drive train have as less stress as possible !!!
Red Man

[Nutter]

hmm.. who makes those plastic outdrives & titanium/aluminium sleeves? They sound interesting.


-Nutter

[gtkx80]

Losi makes them !!!
The outdrives are about $12.99 and they titanium sleves are about $19.99, so your looking somewhere in the $30-$35 range !!! But it is well worth it !!!!

Does anybody happen to have some aluminum MIP CVD's or titanium ones that are interested in getting rid of ?!?!?

[brittonlj77]

I don't have any personal experience with this (and it looks like it will be another 3 weeks or so before I can order my truck.. sigh) but the guys at my track really talked down the aluminum ones. They all run steel MIPs. Since the MFE comes with steel MIPS they gotta be pretty good, but if I need to replace them someday I would consider the titanium ones, if not just to be different! :)

I want to order the titanium screws too. The ones at titaniumracing.com are HALF the price of the Hardcore Racing ones... ah well.

[brittonlj77]

Oh yeah, what are the MFE stock outdrives made out of? Plastic? Graphite?

[gtkx80]

naw man, they are solid steel !!!! 20 lbs a peice JK JK !!!
Get the plastic ones after you get ur truck up and running, and see if you cant feel a difference !!!

[LosiMan3456]

The problem with the Plastic outdrives with Aluminum sleeves wont last long in Mod. They will work for stock well I imagine, but every time I was to race Mod I would have to change them.

Are the CRE conversions worth the money? I was thinking of getting them for my XXX and XXXT. I want to get some opinions before I spend 60 Bucks:eek: Also what about the front aluminum carriers? Are those worth it?

[Casper]

LosiMan3456-- The CRE is not worth it unless you drive on a track that has extreme traction. I do recommend the trinity alum rear hubs (stock width) as you get the vertical ball stud with those which gives you another tuning option.

Alum front caster blocks are not worth the money. Most people I know that have purchased them went back to the stock blocks.

[BloodClod]

My friends and I found a new place to bash and run our trucks. It's basically very dusty concrete that's fairly rough...

I've got 2 main problems:

1) we set up a jump and my rear keeps bottoming out with the stock setup.

2) the rear seems to break loose on turns

So what should I do?

- what tires might you recommend?
- should I use heavier weight oil or heavier springs in the rear to help with the bottoming out (but wouldn't that lessen my rear traction even more)?
- or should I try to lessen front traction?

Just bashing around but I thought it would be cool to try some other setups that might work. :)

Thanks.

[losifreak2004]

Bloodclod - If you are landing onto flat ground from any size jump, and the truck bottoms out, the only way you SHOULD go about fixing that is to building a landing ramp. Messing with the setup will only lead to other problems.

As far as tires, try Pro-Line Road Hawgs.

gtkx80 - No problem.

Losiman - I've heard the CRE conversion is to be used on smooth, slick tracks.

Casper - Good stuff!

Aaron Waldron

[Casper]

Aaron-- CRE is for smooth high bite tracks. IT will help to reduce chassie roll. On slick surfaces it will work worse. If you run slicks at your track the CRE might be worth looking into. Other then that stick with the stock rear end or the stock replacing trinity aluminum hubs.

[gtkx80]

Losifreak-LOL, what do you mean by no problem ?!!?!? LOL

[Gutter Ball]

Originally posted by Casper
Aaron-- CRE is for smooth high bite tracks. IT will help to reduce chassie roll. On slick surfaces it will work worse. If you run slicks at your track the CRE might be worth looking into. Other then that stick with the stock rear end or the stock replacing trinity aluminum hubs.

Yep, I had it for our dirt track and it royally sucked, even racing right after watering. Went back to stock setup and I'm cruisin' again!

[losifreak2004]

gtkx80 - You said "Thanks for the lowdown on the Ti CVD's" HAHA

Casper - Trinity advertised the CRE conversion for smooth/slick tracks. That's what I've been going by.

Aaron Waldron

[gtkx80]

Thanks for clearing it up !!!! LOL

[gtkx80]

Okay, there has been despute at out local track about the Universals are bette,r and no, the CVD's are better !!!

The CVD's give more steering right, because of almost zero binding right ?!?!?
And, the track that we un at is pertty tight, especially in the infield....

CVD's are meant for tighter tracks that require quick spool-up, and...

universals are made for more open tracks that can build up momentum, right ?!?!?!?

Any help wold be much appreciated (by everyone LOL)
Red Man

[makaluch]

There is still some binding at the outdrive if there is any oval-ing of the slot.

I think the most noticable difference between universals and CVD's is when you're comparing a rough track to a smooth one. In my opinion the CVD's would actually hinder you on a really tight track if you're style is smooth and flowing...like stock. The "sliding" action of the CVD's only happens at the outdrive and not at both ends. Suspension binding is more likely without the free play of the universals.

CVD's will square up easier out of corners and give you better forward bite BECAUSE they are stiffer, more bound, and keep the suspension flatter.

I might not know what the heck I'm talking about though ;) Please disregard this info if Aaron, Casper, or any number of other, more experienced people say otherwise...Hahahaha

:D Mark

[makaluch]

Oh yeah...the "type" of driveline you choose has less to do with spool up than the "rotating mass" does.

A lighter driveline will spool up faster because it's mass/weight is less...unfortunately so is it's usable lifespan.

Traction and suspension characteristics (aka handling) are a result of the "type" of driveline you use.

[brittonlj77]

There's a pretty good article in the September issue of RC Car (not RC Car Action, the other magazine) about choosing driveshafts as a tuning option.

The information is from an interview with Gil Losi Jr.

[losifreak2004]

CVD's bind more than universals. More forward bite, squares up coming out of corners, but bouncy through rough sections of the track. Better suited to point-and-shoot driving

Universals allow the car to rotate easier, and will handle bumps better.

If CVD's do accelerate any faster, it is due to the increased traction, not because of any "spool up"

Mark, you didn't do bad at all!

Aaron Waldron

[chanes9]

i cant afford to run nitro anymore and really want a nice xxxt i will trade this for one.

Ofna buggy
1.21 p4 engine
2.aluminum threaded shocks
3.new servos
4.new gas tank
5.new exhaust pipe
6.mugen air filter
7. futaba radio gear
8.gallon of fuel
9.fuel bulb
10.new glow plug
11. rims and tires
12. new fuel tubes

email me at chanes_10@yahoo.com

[ProjectTwin]

My MFE XXXT

http://www.projecttwin.com/images/xxxt/racetrim.jpg

[TC3 Benjammin]

I just bought a new Hitec metal gear servo because my old one stripped out. I have misplaced my manual, so could someone give me the correct # servo horn/pin placement? I can't remember which pin placement # is which, so just tell me upper/lower and left/right. Muchas gracias!:D

[TC3 Benjammin]

Nice truck Jason! How's it handle with those step pins on the front?

[chanes9]

trade me please
i cant afford to run nitro anymore and really want a nice xxxt i will trade this for one.

Ofna buggy
1.21 p4 engine
2.aluminum threaded shocks
3.new servos
4.new gas tank
5.new exhaust pipe
6.mugen air filter
7. futaba radio gear
8.gallon of fuel
9.fuel bulb
10.new glow plug
11. rims and tires
12. new fuel tubes

email me at chanes_10@yahoo.com

[TC3 Benjammin]

Wrong forum, dude. Post that in the "Buy Sell Trade" Forum.:)

[Nutter]

TC3: Hi-tec servo's use 24 tooth servo arms. The steering link should be as small as it can go (the two rod ends should be touching eachother).

The mounting post pin location depends on the type of Hi-tec servo you have.
HS-605, 615, 925, 945: Pin should be to the outside & rear.
Others: Pin should be outside & front.


-Nutter

[raypadro]

i got a xxxt this week,I put a reedy ty 12-2 motor and need a good combination of pinion-spur to start with also what springs and shock oil is good for this.the track I race is very rough with a lot of tight turns,thanks.

[Nutter]

For a 12x2 start out with somewhere around 16/86-88 and go up or down a pinion tooth at a time depending on how it's running.


-Nutter

[TC3 Benjammin]

Thanks, Nutter!:D

[Sike]

hey guys,
does anybody know any replacement for the steering servo hold down/battery strap holder (don't remember the exact name for it)? I have the XXXT MF and I don't want to pay $45 just for that. Since it includes the chassis.

I think I saw in one mag that someone had an aluminum one. Who makes it? Any other alternative for me?

thank you in advance

[Shady]

Trinity makes them, go to there website and click on the Kinwald stuff and it'll come up

[PimpinDanO]

Hey Guys- I really need some information and help. I just recenetly got back into RC Racing after about a 8 year lay off and I need some information. I bought a Triple X MFE and I need to know how to adjust the diff and clean the tranny (Give it a good lub job) and also, What are some set-up tips. (IE: if its pushing and its loose, what springs to adjust and such as that) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
--Dan-O

[Nutter]

Welcome back to the hobby! :)

You don't really need to lube the tranny much as the gears are self-lubricating.. but a little can help when the truck's accelerating.
To adjust the diff, just follow the instructions exactly, and never exceed 1/8 of a turn at a time while adjusting the diff or you are nearly guaranteed to strip the diff nut.. oh, and remember to check the diff after 1 min of driving, then next 3 and 5 mins, and then every run for about 3 packs, just to be sure that it stays tight as the parts break-in.

As for what to adjust.. I'll give it a try, but be warned that setups are not my strong point (especially explaining them... they make sence when I make the changes on the track... sorta a second nature thing). The stock MFE setup is a very good starting point to work from though.
If you have understeer (push/not enough grip up front), try raising the rear ride height, lowering the front ride height, using stiffer springs in the rear, softer springs in the front, laying down the front shocks more (moving them out on the arm, in on the shock tower), standing up the rear shocks more (moving them in on the arm, out on the shock tower), move the battery forward, lighter oil in the front, down a piston size in the front, add more anti-squat, using less toe-in, use longer front camber links, use shorter rear camber links, etc.. there's tons of adjustments that can be made. Just remember that the single biggest adjustment you can make is choosing the correct tires for the track.
If you have oversteer (too much grip up front), you basically do the opposite of what you do for understeer (try raising the front ride height, using stiffer springs in the front, softer springs in the rear, heavier oil in the front, or up a piston size in the front, ......).

The adjustments that you make will all pretty much be trade offs, so you'll have to fiddle around a bit, and if all else fails, just ask here! :)


-Nutter

[barry1]

Thanks Nuttter. "You da man"
--Dan-O

[PimpinDanO]

I NEED HELP ASAP!
All right guys Im clue less here so please be specific. I assume my diff is slipping. Here are the symptoms: I will give the truck max gas and the spur just spins a little before the tires actually begin to move. I removed the 4-40 lock nut and didn't put a new one back on. Could this be the cause of my problems? Also, the book explains to stick an allen wrench some where in the transmission and tighten up and screw but I have no clue where this is at. Help plz I have to race tomorrow and I am clue less.
--Dan-O

[TitansGT4]

I was thinkin about pickin up 1 of these 4 next year's offroad season. How do u lik it? I'm pretty sure that I lik Losi better as a brand than Associated. I'm fairly new to the hobby, I have a Traxxas Tmaxx and an HPI Nitro MT Racer, and i want to pick up one of these XXXT's, so tell me what you think of them please!!
Thanks guys

[Nutter]

Dan: Let me just make sure that I understand you.. you removed the locknut from the diff and didn't replace it, and reassembled the tranny like this? That's definately your problem - without that locknut, the diff can not be tightened at all.
The place where you insert the allen key to tighten the diff is the left outdrive of the diff - so when you're looking from the back of the truck to the front, it's the outdrive (where the drive shaft goes into the tranny) on your left hand side. In the left outdrive there is a slot in the screw head that you have to align with the slots in the outdrive so that the allen key can be put in there to lock the screw and the outdrive together. When the allen key is in place, locking the 2 parts together, you rotate the right rear tire forward very slightly, no more than 1/8 of a turn at a time.

Titan: I can't say enough great things about the XXXT MFE, it's simply beautifully engineered, and runs like only a pure-bred racer can.


-Nutter

[yellafella321]

im sorry for cross-posting...but...does anyone know what degree pivot block the stock mfe comes with? I need a new one...is it 0 or 2? If it is 0, would u suggest getting 2? Or vice versa? Also, are 2 degree rear pivot hubs needed? What do they do exactly, im guessing more forward bite?

[yellafella321]

Also, what are the losi spring rates? In order from lightest to heaviest.

[barry1]

Nutter- I had the 4-40 Locknut on but it wasnt tight enough. I fixed it and my truck raced beautifully Sat night. Never raced dirt before and lead all of 1 main but the last 15 secs. (Some n00b put me into the wall when I was lapping him)
--Dan

[CalmCyclone]

Originally posted by TitansGT4
I was thinkin about pickin up 1 of these 4 next year's offroad season. How do u lik it? I'm pretty sure that I lik Losi better as a brand than Associated. I'm fairly new to the hobby, I have a Traxxas Tmaxx and an HPI Nitro MT Racer, and i want to pick up one of these XXXT's, so tell me what you think of them please!!
Thanks guys

I just bought a Matt Francis Edition XXX-T and have 90% of it put together so far. I only have to put the electrics in and it's ready for the historic first run. It was my first build and I was kind of nervous about it. Turns out that I had nothing to worry about, with the easy to follow instructions.

Anyway, with the Matt Francis Edition XXX-T being easy to build and very competitive on the track, it's a great choice for anyone wanting to get into the stadium truck class.

yella -

The spring rate info was very easy to find on the Losi site. Normally I'd just direct you there, but I'm in a helpful mood (and it was easy to copy & paste).

Rear:
A-5146 2.75" Spring 1.6 Rate (Grey)
A-5147 2.75" Spring 1.8 Rate (White)
A-5148 2.75" Spring 2.0 Rate (Yellow)

Front:
A-5150 2.5" Spring 2.3 Rate (Pink)
A-5152 2.5" Spring 2.6 Rate (Red)
A-5154 2.5" Spring 2.9 Rate (Orange)
A-5156 2.5" Spring 3.4 Rate (Silver)
A-5158 2.5" Spring 3.7 Rate (Green)
A-5160 2.5" Spring 4.1 Rate (Blue)

My Matt Francis Edition came with Reds in front and Yellows in the rear.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[yellafella321]

Yeah, i found all those numbers be4, but...(please don't laugh) i wasn't sure if higher number meant stiffer springs...(i think thats the way it worked) but i hoped it wasn't, cuz i need somethin stiffer than yellow springs in the rear, my truck bottoms out a lot on jumps. I tink i'll just have to use thihcker weight oil.

[yellafella321]

Anyone know anythhing about the rear pivot blocks though?

[CalmCyclone]

The Matt Francis XXX-T pivot block comes with 2° of anti-squat and 3° of toe-in. I looked on the parts list and the only rear pivot blocks I saw were for the XXCR or XX-TCR vehicles. They had 0° and 2° anti-squat blocks for those.

I would stay with the stock setup. However, if you wanted to try your truck with 0° of anti-squat, you could put some shims under the back of the pivot block.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[yellafella321]

so ur sayin i sould et the 2 degree pivot blocks?

[CalmCyclone]

No. The stock setup for the Matt Francis XXX-T already has 2° of anti-squat. Those pivot blocks wouldn't do you any good.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[yellafella321]

So ur sayin get te 0 degree pivot block.

The 0 degrees/2 degrees is for toe-in, not anti squat

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXPW16&P=7
0 degree

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXPW17&P=7
2 degree

[CWT33]

I havent bought my XXX-T MF truck yet but Im glad I found this thread.I have learned alot but some of this stuff is blowing my mind..

Any imput on the stuff I should but when I get the truck??
Motor
batteries
ESC
Radio
anything else??? thanks:D

[CalmCyclone]

yella -

I'm saying you should stay with the stock 3° of toe-in. However, if you're sure you want to mess with the setup, then get the 0° pivot blocks.

CWT -

The stuff you get depends a lot on what you want to do with it. My recommendations:

Stock motors:
Green Machine 3, P2k2 Pro

Modified motors:
Trinity Caliber series, Team Orion Rush series

Batteries:
3000s for modified racing, 2400s for everything else

ESC:
Novak C2, LRP v7.1, LRP Quantum Competition, Duratrax 8T Pro

Radio:
Don't know yet ... looking to get a new one myself


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[CWT33]

Thanks CalmCyclone
Im just getting into it but I dont want to have to buy upgrades later to race so Im gonna get most of the good stuff from the start..Some of the parts you listed are on my list..

motor-Orion Core stock
ESC-Novak Cyclone C2
radio- JR XR3I
Vision Peak Plus charger

Will the C2 be ok for Stock and Mod??
The V7.1 is Novak isnt it?? And is it going to be better than the C2 for S/M

Anything else??

[CalmCyclone]

Yeah, the C2 will be great for both Stock and Mod. No, the v7.1 is from LRP. You're thinking of the GT7 from Novak. As to whether the GT7 is better than the C2, I think it probably is. Novak's site seems to be down right now, so I can't compare the features of the GT7 and C2.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[Nutter]

Originally posted by yellafella321
i need somethin stiffer than yellow springs in the rear, my truck bottoms out a lot on jumps. I tink i'll just have to use thihcker weight oil.That's exactly where you're going wrong yella - what you need to stop bottoming out is more dampening, ie. heavier shock oil. Springs control the rebound of the shock, not the dampening. Some bottoming out isn't bad anyway, it's not perfect, but it's not something to worry about unless you're just big jumps & the bottoming out is really bad.


-Nutter

[yellafella321]

cyclone, i would like to stick with stock pivot blocks But i cracked my rear ones, and i crack the plastic bulks up front alot too. Since i needed new front bulkhheads, and planned on getting alum, i figgured i should get alum in the rear to balance out thhe weight. And, i was wondering what the stock settingg was. SO, if the stock setting is 3 degrees then shouldn't i get the 2 degree ones cuz they are closer to 3 degrees?

[rawbert]

ok, i need some help guys.

I am running the MFE, stock setup. I notice when I take a turn and try to accelerate, the car ends up not going straight and curves directly to the right or left. I can control it so it goes straight when I can see it, but sometimes (well a lot of times) it has that tendacy to just curve and I end up hitting the side of the track. One end of the track I cant see that good, but I can see the car a little, so I try to slowdown, but the minute I try to give it gas I'm hitting the boundary again. It's hard to explain. And coming down the straightaway it's hard to keep my car straight, it will kind of pull right again.... It just seems I'm having so much of a hard time getting it to handle correctly. It's costing me winning.

I thought my slipper was too tight, so I loosened it and the same thing happens.

Could it be the back tires? They're not stock, their the ones with larger dimples then the stock ones. Some of the dimples look worn out, would that be why, or would it be the front ones, which look ok to me though

Could my steering servo be weak and not strong, it's the $20 traxxas one. This is the only cheap part on the car, I'm running a XXL receiver, LRP Competition ESC, 12X3, 3300 packs...

Or could it just be my rear or front tires aren't exactly how they should be that would cause this?

Or would I actually need say stiffer springs / shock oil for front and rear, or moving the shock to different position.

The track is hard dirt and there is one huge straightaway and 50% bumps with a lot of turns.


Any ideas?

Robb...

[Scrad]

This may sound stupid, but check that your servo is centered and your truck drives straight. I don't know your level of knowledge. Your servo also could not be centering itself and like you said before it might not have enough power (torque) to keep the truck going straight. So if you have some extra cash get a better servo. The only other thing I could think that it might be would be the diff, not working right, but I think its your servo. Also try using the same tires everyone else is using. So you know for sure that its hooking up.

[rawbert]

oh, I'm not a newbie to say... Yes, I centered my servo when I put it on. I think I'm going to get another one, I know they help, I knew this when I had to put a $60 one on my 1/8 buggy, lol.... :)

[jep_rc]

rawbert

A couple of thoughts:

Is your servo saver too loose, or broken? Check it carefully. It might be slipping too easily when bumped.

Is your diff working properly? It could be slipping, or could be stuck such that power is only getting applied to one wheel, and never transfering to the other when it should. Check it by holding one wheel and applying a small amount of throttle, the other should spin with full motor torque available. Then hold the other wheel and check again.

It is a possibility that the bumps are simply over-powering a weak servo. Get a decent one like the Hitec 645MB ($39.95 shipped from www.servocity.com)

Jep

[CWT33]

I just bought my XXX-T and I am ready to get started but the tools they supply arent very friendly.. What are the exact sizes of sloted and phillips screwdrivers and the Alan wrenches and nut drivers???? I want to make sure everything is tight but Idont want to strip anything..Silly question but I want to be positive..:D

[dkj-M3]

.05
1/16
5/64-I think
3/32
anyone know what size pinion I could use for a fast wide open track. I have a gren machine3 pro & the stock red spur gear.

thanx

[CWT33]

I have a Novak Cyclone C2 ESP so now I need a reciever..Goanna go with a Novak so its a XXtra or a XXL..Dont realy know much about them but it will be for a XXX-T and a new off-road racer..About $40 difference in the 2..

[CWT33]

I have a Novak Cyclone C2 ESP so now I need a reciever..Goanna go with a Novak so its a XXtra or a XXL..Dont realy know much about them but it will be for a XXX-T and a new off-road racer..About $40 difference in the 2..

[CWT33]

I have a Novak Cyclone C2 ESP so now I need a reciever..Goanna go with a Novak so its a XXtra or a XXL..Dont realy know much about them but it will be for a XXX-T and a new off-road racer..About $40 difference in the 2..

[CWT33]

I have a Novak Cyclone C2 ESP so now I need a reciever..Gonna go with a Novak so its a XXtra or a XXL..Dont realy know much about them but it will be for a XXX-T and a new off-road racer..About $40 difference in the 2..:confused:

[CalmCyclone]

The XXL is just an Xtra Xtra Little standard receiver.

The XXtra is a receiver that doesn't use crystals. To get the best benefit from that, you need a transmitter that has the same capability.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[CWT33]

What is the benifit of not using crystals??
The radio I plan on using is the JR XR3I..

[CWT33]

Originally posted by CalmCyclone
yella -


Radio:
Don't know yet ... looking to get a new one myself


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[CWT33]

Originally posted by CalmCyclone
CWT -

Radio:
Don't know yet ... looking to get a new one myself


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

Sorry about the double posts guys still learing...


CalmCyclone did you get a radio?? If so what did u get and why??

[CalmCyclone]

I haven't actually gotten my new one yet, but I've decided on which one I'm going to get.

The JR XR3 is my choice. It's relatively inexpensive ($139.95 at my LHS), it's a 3-channel FM, and has 3-model memory.

Now I just have to wait until the billfold is willing to release the funds. Unfortunately, I'm saving up for a Losi XXX-4 (I'm on my LHS's pre-order list - the car plus 3 free races for $230-240), so I think the new radio takes a back seat to that. It'll probably be January before I can buy a new radio.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[Nutter]

Originally posted by CWT33
What is the benifit of not using crystals??
The radio I plan on using is the JR XR3I..The benifit of not using crystals is that you don't have to pay for them (they're quite expensive, from $15-$25 a pair, and you need atleast 3 sets of crystals to race), and you have every possible frequency, which means no waiting for a frequency peg when practicing.


-Nutter

[CalmCyclone]

And you don't have to worry about damaged/broken crystals either.

Of course, this is assuming you get the special 'no crystal' module for your radio - if one is even available. I've seen a review of one for the M8, but not for other radios.

I just saw the XR3i on Horizon's site, and it looks like a good choice - especially if they keep the price down.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[dkj-M3]

Hitec has a crystal-less radio, or something that makes it crystal-less.

[CWT33]

Originally posted by CalmCyclone


I just saw the XR3i on Horizon's site, and it looks like a good choice - especially if they keep the price down.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

$169.95 at my LHS but Im sure they are cheaper on-line someplace just havent found 1 yet..

[CalmCyclone]

Your LHS charges full retail?? Wow. One reason I like my LHS is that they tend to be cheaper than both retail and on-line prices. Plus, they are hosting two big races this year: OktoberFast (part of the US Triple Crown series) and the NORRCA WinterNationals.

My LHS has the XR3 for $139.95, so I hope the XR3i is around the same price. I'm sure once the XR3i comes out, they will start phasing out the XR3.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[CWT33]

Anybody know a good place to find a XR3I on the web?? Horizon was full price $169..

[Clod_Killer]

Umm where are you guys getting $169 as retail? Its MAP. (Minimum advertised Price) Meaning no one can advertise it for less then that. Retail is $229.99. If somewhere is advertising it either online, or in a magazine for less, then they could loose their Horizon dealer license. They do that to help the little shops out from being undercut so bad by the mail order shops. If your shop is getting $139.95, they are just trying to move them. They aren't making much at all on them.

[CWT33]

Thats cool..I guess since they are new that will probably be the best price and as you said its MAP. I saw them at HobbyTown for $169.99 but I havent seen them any cheaper. Thanks for the reply.

[CWT33]

1 more thing..Are the recievers that come with the radios good enough or is a aftermarket (Novak XXL) the way to go???

[Clod_Killer]

I am not 100% sure what they come with, but the old XR3 came with a R133 receiver. Its a good unit, just a little bigger then most. I think the new one comes with the same unit. The XXL can get away with being smaller since it is only 2 channel.

Went racing last night with the XXXT. Got it pretty dialed in. Took home a first in the B main out of 40 some people racing. :D

[CalmCyclone]

Actually, the XR3 comes with the R135 receiver now, but it's still standard size.

If you don't have any space concerns in your car or truck, the standard receiver works great. If you need to conserver space or weight, or just want the latest and greatest, then the XXL would work.

Clod - great job on the B-Main win!

At my local track, you could've bumped up to race in the A-Main, if you wanted to.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[Clod_Killer]

Thanks. We don't do bump ups in the regular racing. I don't like them myself. You have a couple qualifiers to show what you have. If your good enough to be in the A, then you would have made it there to begin with. Thats my opinion anyways. That was my first win in the main. Next goal is to qualify in the A.

[Clod_Killer]

Wow nothing to talk about?

We had the Michigan Redneck Nationals today in Pontiac, MI. I placed 3rd in the A for stock truck. The XXXT is doing me well. Racing again tomarrow, can't wait!

[CWT33]

I finally got my MF XXX-T put together..About 5 hrs but it was my first R/C.. I put a JR DZ8450 digital servo in and it works great.. Afew guys drove it and they said they had to have 1..Now to get it dialed in and learn how to drive..I need to find the MF full set up and learn the tricks of the trade..:cool: Im glad I decided to go with the XXX-t instead of the Buggy..But maybe that is the next project..

[Casper]

Originally posted by yellafella321
cyclone, i would like to stick with stock pivot blocks But i cracked my rear ones, and i crack the plastic bulks up front alot too. Since i needed new front bulkhheads, and planned on getting alum, i figgured i should get alum in the rear to balance out thhe weight. And, i was wondering what the stock settingg was. SO, if the stock setting is 3 degrees then shouldn't i get the 2 degree ones cuz they are closer to 3 degrees?

Ok it looks like you are a little confused and it was not cleared up. 0 and 2 on the trinity blocks are the antisquat. The 3 deg that cyclone was talking about is toe in. All of the blocks have 3 deg of TOE-IN. The stock block is 2 deg of ANTISQUAT. This it the trinity one you want to get. The reason is that it will be easy to tune to 0, 2 or 4 deg of antisquat with the "wedges" losi gives you for the stock block.

**You want the 2 deg trinity block for your car to have a direct replacment.

[CalmCyclone]

I tried explaining that to him as well, but in the links he gives it appears that they have either 0° or 2° of toe-in. Tower does make mistakes though.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[Casper]

rawbert-- First I would make sure you are running the same tires as everyone else is at the track. If the track is hard and you are using tires that have tall pins it might just be tires. If you have tires that everyone else seems to be running fine with it might be setup. Try running a longer camber link in the rear. If you are not on the outside hole on the rear hub move to that location. The stock MF setup is really soft also so putting 30 weight with 56 (red) pistions might help the rear end from being so loose also.

[Casper]

Tower was wrong in there add. The 0 or 2 is anti squat. They only come with 3 deg of toe in. IF you want to adjust toe in trinity makes 1 deg rear hub carriers that depending on how you mount them will give you 2 or 4 deg of overall toein but those are mainly used to give gas trucks 4 total deg of toe in and rea rearly if ever used on electric cars. I just wanted to make sure this was clear to everyone.

[Casper]

Originally posted by CWT33
I finally got my MF XXX-T put together..About 5 hrs but it was my first R/C.. I put a JR DZ8450 digital servo in and it works great.. Afew guys drove it and they said they had to have 1..Now to get it dialed in and learn how to drive..I need to find the MF full set up and learn the tricks of the trade..:cool: Im glad I decided to go with the XXX-t instead of the Buggy..But maybe that is the next project..

Try this setup. 27.5wt oil with 56 pistons. 0 deg antisquat. 2-b front camber link. 2 washers under the inside ball stud. Shocks in #2 and middle of the arm. Rear shocks in #3 and outside on the arm. #2-b for the rear camber link. Hubs centered. Batter in the middle. Orange springs in the front Pink in the rear. That should just about cover it. Add tires that work at your track and you should be good to go. If anybody does try it let me know how you like it.

[losifreak2004]

Casper - What's up C-dawg? You racing the Reedy Truck Race? We're getting there Wednesday night....

The new module for the M8, which will not require crystals, will be made/sold my Novak, and is called the "Switch".

Sorry I've been gone for a while; had to take care of some other things (you'll be seeing me in the magazines pretty quick). Anyone have any questions for me? Leave them here, IM me at Aaron Waldron 1, or e-mail me at awaldron@teamurc.com

Aaron Waldron

[Casper]

Hey Aaron-- I will be at the Reedy race. I am running stock and mod truck and Ryan will be racing stock and gas. WE are getting up there Thurs night but I doubt we will be in time to get some track time :(

[Clod_Killer]

Hey have you guys seen this all Losi forum?
Losi Forum (http://pub46.ezboard.com/blosircforum)

[Clod_Killer]

That one is having a real rough start. I am thinking about making an all Losi site, with message boards, news, race results, tips, reviews, and more. What do you all think? If you would like to see something like that, what are some things you would like to see it have? Thanks.

[Clod_Killer]

Well guys, here is a start.
Losi World (http://www.action-rc.com/losiworld/index2.htm)

[Tony Montana]

What would you guys suggest for gearing for a XXX-T with a SG Pro Titanite (15x2)? (something good for all-around driving)

How about with a P2K2?

Thanks