Team Losi XXXT Forum v1.0

[Shady]

got bored here's a pic of my XXXT with its fury body, since been changed to a Dodge Dakota thats Green with Orange Flames


edit:well for some reason it didn't show, have to get the disk out and see if i can get it off of there

[Casper]

Tony Montana-- Gear a 15 turn at 20/86 and a P2K2 at 18/86 Those are my standard starting points. For a complete gear chart look here


http://home.att.net/~casper04/Gear_Chart.htm

[losifreak2004]

News Flash! Panther wins their first big race, in the hands of Jeremy Felles, in the Open Modified Truck class at the 2002 Reedy Truck Race of Champions!

Way to go Fez!

Aaron Waldron

[CWT33]

What is the weight of the MF XXX-T wheels (each)??? I thought about maybe going with a different wheel but since nobody looks like they ever change I thought that the weight might be why..I want something that looks more like a truck wheel. Lik ethe RPM Starz or something.. Any thoughts or warnings about the wheels?????:confused:

[Casper]

I do not think wieght is the reason people use the losi wheels. I think it is because they are the easiest to get and it looks dumb if you have different kinds of wheels on your car. Meaning you have purple PRM claws on the front and losi yellow dish wheels on the rear. It looks best if you just pick one type of wheel so it still looks normal when you change tires. If you race the losi wheels are more readily available.

[CWT33]

Here is my XXX-T..


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid36/p14e33bb91a44cdfc453d6b9f1edc12b2/fd251111.jpg

[Casper]

Good looking truck! :D

[dantheman59]

The two 4-40 x 3/8" flathead screws that go through the rear pivot plate and motor guard and into the two gearbox halves have fallen out and will not tighten. It could be the result of a vicious rear end landing on a brick wall that bent up a cvd, turnbuckle, and the inside (!) of a motor. Don't ask me why they have big jumps near a brick wall.

I wrote to Losi and they suggested replacing the tranny case, but is there anything to use to secure screws into plastic or graphite?

While I am replacing the tranny case I might as well rebuild the tranny. Any words of wisdom/part numbers? Thanks in advance.

Dan

[Casper]

Losi is right. To fix the problem right you will need to replace the tranny case. If only one screw was loose or falling out I would try a couple different thing to get it to stay but if both are falling out get a new case. Just as an FYI you can use loctite to get screws to stay but it does not work all that good. Another trick is to use CA to get a screw to stick. The CA will actually harden into new threads but this is a temp fix. If it has been a while since the tranny has been taken apart it is probably a good idea to rebuild the diff since you will have the rear end apart.

[Shady]

:cool: Alright here is my xxxt with the McAllister Dodge Dakota Body :cool:

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by dantheman59
<SNIP>..., but is there anything to use to secure screws into plastic or graphite?Dan
Dan - in a pinch, I have had good luck using 3mm dia screws to replace 4-40's that have stripped out. 3mm is just slightly large dia than 4-40. Get a similar length screw and try it. Don't use Loctite type thread locker in plastic or graphite, it will make it brittle. I use Permatex liquid gasket to help screws hold better in plastic, but if they are real loose, it won't hold them in. You can always mix up some JB-Weld and epoxy the screws in if you really don't want to spring for a new case, just be prepared to drill them out when you do want to replace it (what the heck, it's toast anyway).

Jep

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by Shady
:cool: Alright here is my xxxt with the McAllister Dodge Dakota Body :cool:
Shady - nice body. I have had my eye on the new McAllister Dakota. What did you use for the light and grill decals? I didn't think the McAllister came with decals - also, did it come with window masks? Thanks.

Jep

[Shady]

for the lights and grill i used leftover decals from some dodge stuff and cut them down to size, it does come with window mask but you have to cut them out but the are drawn out on them

[racer13]

hello... i have a xxxt mfe with novak c2, speed gems 2, xr2, 2400 pack, etc.. when i was at the track my truck seemed really noisy, like things were grinding together or something, i was watching a different truck race and his was quiet. i asked him and he told me my gears might not be meshed, but i checked and they are. i cleaned my hole tranny out and put gear lube in there but it didnt make that much of a difference, i was thinking it could be my outdrive bearings, cause those are pretty dirty (i need new ones) and i was also wondering how tight should my outdrives be? i made it so i could turn it with alot of pressure, any help would be useful.. thanks a lot!

~ joe

[CalmCyclone]

It could be the bearings, but I'd bet on the mesh between your spur and pinion gears. If it's too tight, it can be really noisy.

And yes, your diff should be about that tight.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[Tstalion79]

Yeah, I am almost sure it's your mesh. With electric, even a mesh that is just slightly off can sound really noisy because the rest of the car is so quiet. make sure that they dont mesh together completely, and there is a tiny gap between the gears. Not a big gap at all though, as small as you can make it.

[Casper]

As a rule of thumb you want the gears to be touching between 50-75% of the teeth. Too close they will not mesh right cause too much drag and be noisy. Too loose and you will strip the gear.

[racer13]

why must they make it so complicated =] electrics are supossed to be the EASY ones!

[Tstalion79]

well the mesh is just as important on nitro. setting the mesh really isnt comlicated...

[Aluma]

hi everybody, I just got a MF XXX-T used and without a manual...

It has pink rear springs and red fronts, even a red spur gear. I have quite a few questions so I hope y'all can help me...

1. How do you gear for a D3, or D3.5 motor which i have no idea how many turns they have cuz i got them used. is 18T okay?

2. Whats a good setup for this truck? what springs and oil wts are good to start with?

3. Are there any mods you do to make it handle better or be more durable?

4. What parts should I order as backups...what breaks more often on these things?

5. What the better body for this truck...the Fury, the stock XXX-T body, or GMC from proline...are there any others that fit?

6. will integy's spring set for the XXX-NT work fine with the XXX-T? are the colors the same for losi springs?

[Shady]

1-it would really help if you could find out the number of turns it is, thats how i base pinion stuff
2-try some of the setups on the losi site, they work real good for most tracks
3-only thing i put on my truck that i thought it needed was trinity's al blocks, everything else IMO is eye candy
4-i have only broke one thing on my trk, (huge jump) but i try to keep spare arms spindles and things of that nature, just in case, plus i replace them when they start to get loose
5-any of those bodies will work, i like the Mcallster dodge body, its a few bucks cheaper is just as good material wise and its a dodge (i like dodge), losi body i have noticed tend to split easier, especailly when usin liquid mask with an xacto knife, i also used the gmc body and i beat it to death and it is still i good shape
6-dunno about those springs, i always just use springs that losi makes

[Tstalion79]

Guys, i just ordered my xxx-t matt francis kit! Im pretty pumped to get it!

[Nexus]

just bought a XXX-T Matt Francis Edition!!

can't wait till it's finished....i'm on bag C right now :P


Nexus

RC10B3
XXX-T

[Aluma]

whats better for loose damp dirt.... proline edge or losi 8rib in front.... proline bowtie or losi step pins back?

[Tstalion79]

I have always loved the proline bowties. I always ran crime fighters on my 8th scale buggies (which are basically 8th scale bowties) with great success. As for the front, I also like proline. The new orion tires are sweet too.

[Casper]

Pro-line edge or Losi Directionals are better for the loose stuff. Losi 8 rows are for hard packed conditions.

[Tstalion79]

You also have to take foams into consideration. I have a pretty hard packed track, and I find that it is best to use the pro line 2 piece foams.

[AussieSam]

hello... i have a xxxt mfe with novak c2, speed gems 2, xr2, 2400 pack, etc.. when i was at the track my truck seemed really noisy, like things were grinding together or something, i was watching a different truck race and his was quiet. i asked him and he told me my gears might not be meshed, but i checked and they are. i cleaned my hole tranny out and put gear lube in there but it didnt make that much of a difference, i was thinking it could be my outdrive bearings, cause those are pretty dirty (i need new ones) and i was also wondering how tight should my outdrives be? i made it so i could turn it with alot of pressure, any help would be useful.. thanks a lot!

Hi,

I have been using Tamiya type 48p pinions on my B3 and they are real noisey. The problem is they are not quite the same pitch as Associated or RRP spurs, the pitch difference makes them squeal. If you have a metal scratching noise than maybe your diff is slipping.

Regards,

Sam.

[racer13]

well.. im using the stock 48 pitch red spur, and then im using a 48 pitch pinion.. so i dunno, how tight should my spur be?

[Tstalion79]

what do u mean how tight should it be? If you mean the mesh, there should be no resistance when you turn the spur gear except for the motor's magnets.

[racer13]

no not mesh.. how tight should i tighten my Slipper

[Casper]

The slipper should always be looser then the diff. How do you test that? Well I always run my diff pretty tight. To set the slipper I usually do it by hand and feel but if you do not know what the correct feeling is set the car down on the track or the ground and hammer the throttle. If the slipper whines tighten it until it shops slipping on take off. If it does not whine/slip back off until it does. You should have it tight enough for it not to slip from acceleration but any forces larger then normal standing acceleration should allow it to slip a little. For stock racing I usually have the slipper almost locked but for mod I adjust the slipper a little more. If you are having serious traction prolbems you can back off the slipper a touch so it slips a little under hard accleration but I find if it is too loose the slipper will get hot and glaze over and then it does not work as well. I like it tighter then looser but make sure it slips before you diff or you will destroy the differential. That is kind of a wordy explination but I hope it makes sense.

[Tstalion79]

very well put. adjust it right until you hear it whine, and then tighten in half a turn (or until it stops whining)

[Clod_Killer]

Check and make sure there is nothing in the gears. Check all the teeth over, and if you see something, use the tip of an xacto knife to clean them out. If any of the teeth look worn or deformed, replace that gear and any that ran with it. Tamiya pinions are Metric 48p, or .04 module. DO NOT use them for anything other then metric spurs. They will wear out the spur and cause noise. I put a light coat of grease on the internal gears (The white teflon grease), spin the spur to work it around, then I pop the diff back out and idler, roll them on a paper towel to remove any extra grease, and re-install.

[Nexus]

i am building a XXX-T Matt Francis...

my plan is to race this truck in stock class....what motors would people recommend?

i've heard good things about the Team Orion 'Core' motors.

i also have a P2K2pro


Nexus

[Tstalion79]

Those are both great. There really arent too many bad stock motors. It all comes down to batteries in stock racing. Go with the p2k2 or green machine 3 and get a very nice battery pack.

[Aluma]

hey guys does MIP sell just the little pins that hold the CVD's together? I got my truck as a trade and it was missing on little pin...I'm guessing it got lost in a crash cuz the bone was broken.
anyway, does anyone know of a part number? I already got the bones for em but they dont come with pins, and i dont want to buy a whole set for 40 bucks for one pin.

[Tstalion79]

Tower hobbies sells a "rebuild" kit for them. Its like 5 bucks i think.

[YZ167]

I got a XXX MFE coming, along with a GM3, some 3000 nimh, and 2400's, Hitec 3D, Hitec 945MG, and a novak GT7 =Þ
I cant wait to try it all out ! My first losi, will see how it does agasint my T3. I've always had AE, I might be going to the dark side soon =() Time will tell

[Gutter Ball]

YZ167: actually, you have just seen the light ;) Welcome to the right side! lol....

[racer13]

WOW, nice setup! you should love it!. may i reccomend the reedy ti modified? heard good things about them.. good luck! and you WILL go to the dark side! losi is the best! i have the same truck

[YZ167]

Where is a good place online to get parts for the XXXT, so far the best i found was http://www.stormerhobbies.com/

What parts are more prone to breaking so I can have back up in case they break. I know A arm front and rear, shock towers, what else....
Thanks

[racer13]

im looking to get a new motor right now *for christmas*, i want a modified and i heard the reedy ti's were good. my track is built for speed.. has one long straight, few small jumps, small table top, etc. but i need fast accleration. i was wondering how i would gear it? it would be the red spur *stock to xxxt, and for pinions i have 15,17,20 but i can get a diff one for the job. what would work?

[Tstalion79]

Guys, I think i have a problem with my locknut in my diff. Basically, after the first run, i tightened it as the manual instructed me to. Basically, i think i overtightened it and stripped out the locknut. Is this possible? The diff got extremely loose.

[Gutter Ball]

Yup, that is possible. I had huge problems with the Losi diff at first too. Now I break the diff in by hand, retighten, spin it by hand again, retighten and then I install it.

[Tstalion79]

Yep, I replaced the locknut and its fine now. I dont see how they would use a nut that can strip. That is pathetic!

[Clod_Killer]

Well its not made to be wrenched down on. A snug, then back off till its where it needs to be.

[Tstalion79]

Yeah. I had just heard so many things about losi balls melting that I wanted to make sure it was "extra" tight lol.

[dantheman59]

It seems that lots of guys are stuck like glue to the track with their XXXT's. It tends to be a hard surface underneath but with a think layer of loose dirt on top. I am currently using the stock tires that came with the kit. We have Hole Shots and I am going to try those.

Any other tire suggestions? Thanks.

Dan

[Tstalion79]

Well what is your car behaving like? If it is really loose around the track, try to maybe lower your ride height a little and dial in some toe in the front, and take out any rear camber.

[wolfboy117]

I finnaly got my first RC Car! its a XXX-T spec, a XXX-T MF edition would have been nice but i didnt have the money at the time. Does anyone else have a XXX-T spec?

[Shoey]

I am with you on the financial side of things. The Spec is a cheap way to get into a great truck. Besides, you can pretty much upgrade to the MF with aftermarket goods. I just bought a Spec and am waiting for the electronics to show up in the mail. I could be wrong about the upgrade thing, I am a little out of date. My last purchase was a JRX-PRO SE. I hope this helps!

BTW, Does anyone know what Towerhobbies doesn't carry Losi products anymore? I had to dig to order my truck, but as mentioned before, stormerhobbies has a good selection, prices and very good customer service.

[wolfboy117]

What electroncis are you waiting on?
Im waiting on a LRP, IPC pro sport esc, that my money at the moment, then im gonna get a Peak Carrera 10x2 motor, The Cheapest Futaba radio, and some Peak World spec batterys.

[Shoey]

I went pretty basic on the first go round; Associated Fury Modified 12T Quad Motor, DuraTrax Sanyo 1900SCR 6-Cell Flat NiCd Pack Standard, Novak Explorer ESC and Futaba radio system. Does anyone know if the Associated Fury Modified motor is any good, or did I just blow some cash on some trash??

[Shady]

Horizon Hobbies bought out losi, and they are compition to Great Planes ( I think), therefore tower being part of great planes can't get losi stuff because of horizon, and horizon is the cheapest place you can get losi parts because they are the distubtor(sp)

[Shady]

only time anything is cheaper than horizon is when it is priced to just get rid of or when its "hot"

[Shoey]

Shady~

Thanks for the information. It all makes sense now. For losi products, Stormerhobbies is the way to go. However, for everything else, I would do Towerhobbies. They do have the best prices and selection on the market. Thanks again!

[Shady]

Stormer is nice but don't backorder anything, they won't ship a single thing till all the backorders are in, For losi stuff i use horizon because you can't get any cheaper than them and they almost always have everything in stock, if it isn't losi i usually go to tower hobbies

[DJ BlendeR]

Hey wolfboy, I have a spec too. Instead of upgrading to the MFE, I just bought some of the necessary upgrades for the spec and I am eventually gonna buy the MFE, then I will have the spec for any parts I break on the MFE. If you look at how much it would cost to buy the upgrades to make a spec an MFE, you will see buying the kit itself is cheaper. I can't wait to race this weekend, I am getting a high speed metal gear servo and a new ESC, maybe now I can actually get the thing to get around the bends.:cool:

[racer13]

Hey! im looking for a mod motor and i need to find one pretty quick.. it needs to be $55 or cheaper, i dont really care.. looking for a 12x2 or a 10x2. it will be in my xxxt mfe, i have the stock red spur but if you reccomend a mod motor to me what spur/pinion would work good with it, my track is for speed and it also needs acceleration. thanks a lot!

[wolfboy117]

Some where in these RC forums there is a gearing chart, I just tried to look for it, but that was a failure. You might as well look for it your self.

[Shady]

for mod motors i would recommend the Reedy Ti motors, they are some of the best made IMO

[racer13]

some of my friends said not to get the reedy ti and to go for the p-94, but then there is the problem with the brushes.. so yeha, but if i was going to get the p-94 i would get the matt francis edition red can 9 x 2

[Shady]

the p94 are decent motors and work great but i have had better results from the Ti's, (i tend to stay away from trinity motors, had to many problems with them)

[dantheman59]

Originally posted by Tstalion79
Well what is your car behaving like? If it is really loose around the track, try to maybe lower your ride height a little and dial in some toe in the front, and take out any rear camber.

The rear end was sliding out coming out of the turn. Ride height right now is set so the arms/dogbones are parallel with the ground. Camber in the front is negative 1 degree. Rear camber is negative 4 degrees, or is that toe-in? Sorry, I'm not sure if I know the difference. The tires lean in is what I mean by my camber adjustment.

The track is all new this week and more tacky. We switched to Hole Shots from the T-2000's, or whatever that rear tire is that comes with the XXXT kit and that seems to work better. The turns are also less tight with more straightaways and monster jumps. I bet part sales will be up!

Dan

[dkj-M3]

try raising the dogbones to just above level & running 0.5-1 neg camber/2-B rear camber links

[racer13]

hello, what is the part number for the "red" alumium threaded shock collars, thanks a lot!

[Nexus]

this is the 1st R/C vehicle i've ever built....


Losi XXX-T Matt Francis Edition




Nexus:cool:

[Nexus]

link to my XXX-T MF...

http://www.importgear.com/images/XXX-T.jpg

Nexus

[CWT33]

Thought I had time to race but I dont so somebody is gonna get a good deal..

http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=1791001036&rd=1

[CalmCyclone]

lol!

Better re-do that link ... it doesn't work with those asterisks in it.

[CWT33]

I guess Im not suppose to do that..

[nandsong]

i have had really bad luck with the Ti, IMO the Orion Core motors are the best.

[Shady]

Originally posted by CWT33
I guess Im not suppose to do that..

RCCA doesn't allow links to ebay

[Shady]

double

[Scrad]

Just put the item number up instead.

[CWT33]

good idea..

LOSI XXX-T MATT FRANCIS W/EXTRAS
Item # 1791001036

[racer13]

does any one know the part number for the 'red' aluminum threaded shock collars??? i need them! thanks a lot

[CalmCyclone]

It's probably TMF1121 - it's listed as red shock collars for the XXX-4, but I think they'd fit other Losi shocks as well.

[racer13]

well, it says also will fit xxx-4, but the xxx-4 shocks aren't threaded... so? i was wondering if these are the collars for the threaded shocks.

[Shady]

TMF1121 is the right number for the red shock collars, Losi makes threaded shocks for the xxx4 so they will fit them to

[racer13]

hey! thanks a lot, that makes me feel a lot better, im also getting the trinity red alumium bushings for my xxxt too! getting it this weekend along with a reedy ti 11x2 and a new set of front/rear tires and rims. :D is the reedy ti 11x2 a good choice?

[Shady]

IMO reedy ti's are great motors, i usually don't go below a 12 but i do have a 11x2 and its very good

[Shoey]

We all know that the XXXT is god's gift to RC Trucks, but what is the best tire use when setting land speed records ice? I live in an area where we get spanked with inches of ice a year. On that same note, can I put bigger tires on my truck, or would bad things happen? I don't have a dealer anywhere near me, so you all are the source of my only source of information. Please help. Keep in it real in the way way north, Shoey

[Aluma]

hey guys I finally got to race my MF, it has red springs front, pink rear...level arms/bones. running red edges/red step pins. when i started it didnt seem to have any turn in so i gave it more camber, I'm at 2 front/rear...still not happy with it. any suggestions?

I also noticed that it likes to nose dive off of jumps and leans heavily to one side in the air... i never had any problems like this with my evader. :P any tips?

[DJ BlendeR]

You could put some washers under the front camber link ball stud. That'll help with handling. For the nose diving, you could move your battery pack back.

[Nexus]

just took apart my differential in the XXXT...


the differential gear was completely gone! the center portion of the gear that holds those ball bearings was off...it came off the actual gear!

what would have cause this...it being to tight?

Nexus

[dkj-M3]

maybe the diff was too loose(slipped), or the slipper was to tight(not slipping), or it was old & needed a rebuild, but you kepted running it till it burned up. not really sure tho.

[Nexus]

i think that's what happened...it was realy loose and i ran it a little....then realized what the problem was.

one or more of the balls might have come loose then when it tightened...it was out of place and melted the plastic.


Nexus

[racer13]

yeah, that sucks.. hope you get it fixed

[Shoey]

My last Question made no sense, so let me try again. What is the best tire to use on ice and snow? Can bigger wheels be put on a XXXT without any problems? Please help.

[Nexus]

shoey: whatever tire you end up using make sure you water proof the electronics in the car....if you don't bad things will happen. :(

most of the recievers and ESCs that go into these truck are not meant to get wet.

i heard people putting balloons or something over them.

Nexus

[dkj-M3]

I would say paddles for the snow, but any tire would probly handle the same on ice. why not get one of those nitro snow-mobiles, I bet those would be fun to race, or bash.

[Tstalion79]

make snow spikes for it!

[Tstalion79]

make snow spikes for it!

[Shoey]

Nexus~ Thanks for the advice. I am already on it.I ran Silicone around all seams and electricial outlets. It would take total submersance to short my transistors out on my ESC.

Tstalion and DK3 Good idea, I like the paddle idea, I will put in a order for paddles and stud them out. I'll let you know how it turns out when they come in. Thanks everyone for the advice.
Shoey

[Nexus]

when you have the differential and trans assembled but with no motor...

if you grab the spur gear and spin it forward(clockwise) so the wheels spin should it move freely...i get some friction about halfway spinning it.

just wondering if it should spin 100% freely when i turn it.



Nexus

[wavejake]

Can someone please upload the section on how to rebuild the diff on the xxx-t part of the manual (either xxx-t or xxx-t mfe, not the spec). Or give me a link to where I can find it, I have already looked at www.teamlosi.com.

Thanks.

[saabcaptain]

Can someone tell me a good ball cup driver that works with the MFE XXX-T red ball cups? Are these the same size as standard Losi ball cups and work with Duratrax ball cup drivers etc.? Do these drivers work at making it easier to put the ball cups on?

Thanks for any help with this, I am looking to replace my current ball cups which are greatly messed up looking as a result of how I put them on the first time, by using a wrench to hold the turnbuckle while using a needle nose plier to rotate the ball cup (which put tons of cuts and black marks in the ball cup).

Thanks again!

[DJ BlendeR]

Saabcaptain: You musta done it wrong the first time. Everyone I know uses pliers and then the tie rod driver to put them in. You should have gotten a little silver thing with the kit that has one end where you drive the tie rods and the other end is for the ball cups. If you don't have one of those, then I would just try the plier trick again, and just be more careful.

Can someone give me a list of losi's color coding? I need to know what springs are stiffer than what and what each color spur gear corresponds to what teeth number. Thanks.

[saabcaptain]

I am at a loss as to the part your describing. Can you give me a part number? I have seen aftermarket tools that have a notch the shape of a ball cup (from Duratrax and Peak Performance) that you put the ball cup in and then use the tool to put the ball cup on the tie rod. The only real tool I can remember in the Losi kit is the graphite tool which is a nut driver for the wheel nuts etc.

Was my kit missing something? If so what was the part number! Thanks...

[Shady]

the duratrax wrench for the losi will work with all of the ballcups made for losi, the wrench he is talkin about is the punisher wrench which comes with the lundford ti turnbuckles when you buy them

Fail R/C Racing
Bountyhunter Racing Engines

[Gutter Ball]

Can someone give me a list of losi's color coding? I need to know what springs are stiffer than what and what each color spur gear corresponds to what teeth number. Thanks. [/B]

These are for their Offroad vehicles:

Springs
Gray = softest
White
Yellow
Pink
Red
Orange
Silver
Green
Blue = Hardest

Spurs = I'm not sure :)

[saabcaptain]

Cool... thanks guys! I ordered a Lunsford punisher wrench and a Duratrax Losi ball cup wrench. I also ordered all new red ballcups (to do it right this time) as well as other goodies like new tires (finally what works at my track... losi taper pins in the rear and pro-line m3 blades in front).

As for the "silver tool" that came with the kit... I remember that now, it is a turnbuckle wrench but wouldn't you know it, the wrench doesn't work with the lunsford Ti turnbuckles in the MFE kit a known flaw in the kit looking back at previous postings.

Thanks again for everyones help!

[Tstalion79]

In reply to the shock stiffness post, you should know that no matter what the track condition, almost nobody every varies from yellow or pink in the back, and virtually everyone runs reds in front.

[Shady]

saabcaptain-one more thing, the duratrax wrench for the ball cups will not work with rpm's ball cups, the are a little bigger and won't go in them correctly

Tstalion79-you got that right about springs, i am one of very few that runs something different than that though, i run pink on front and yellow on the rear at the moment, handles more to my driving style like that, i think i am gonna try a softer spring on the front and a stiffer one on the rear to see if i like that, ( i like to experiment with things to much i guess :D )

Fail R/C Racing
Bountyhunter Racing Engines

[Shady]

Spur Gears that i knoe are

White -78
Red -84
Green-87

Thats all i know


Fail R/C Racing
Bountyhunter Racing Engines

[Nexus]

i used a needlenose and a pliers.....just wrap the end with tape or something soft so you don't scratch up the platic

:)


Nexus

[saabcaptain]

Thanks for the warning Shady but I am sticking with Losi ball cups in red so the Duratrax wrench should work.

Nexus: I used that method but the needlenose pliers dug cuts into the ball cups and it looks *ugly*. Yeah they will get knicked up driving but I hate creating "damage" before I even drive it. That said I have driven this MFE for 8 months now but I am doing a complete rebuild, I tore the whole entire truck down to the last screw and have begun rebuilding it. It will have a freshened diff and tranny, freshened shocks, freshened CVDs, new ballcups all around, new electronics, a new stock motor, and some trinity look'in good goodies. :D

[racer13]

what i do is take a clothe and some big pliers and grip the ballcup like that then use some needle nose on the turnbuckle and just turn, mine never get scratched up

[DJ BlendeR]

As to the whole spring thing I have run silver, yellow, white, red and pink in the front shocks, most successfully with silver, white, and red. I also know racers at my track who use orange. Maybe the track I run at is wierd, but they don't all stick to the stock springs. Thanks for the rankings tho.

[mardigan]

A couple of questions for you guys...

The other day I clipped a pole with the front left tire of my MF and it left my steering off center. Easily fixed (temporarily) with a trim adjustment but I went home and tore the front end apart to reallign everything. What is odd is that I couldn't find where it was knocked out at. Have any of you had your metal gear servos loose their center adjustment? I have an Airtronics 94357. I ended up shortening the link between the servo and the steering linkage but it is now shorter than stock.

The second part of this is, do any of you strip screws out from the bulkhead when you clip a pole or a wall? I seem to have a problem with this.

[tarvymoto]

Mar , your servo horn may have been move on the servo do to the inpact. I would take the servo out of the car...take the servo horn off and re-center your trim on the radio.

[dkj-M3]

Mar - like tarvy said it's most likely your servo horn is srtripped. &
find some longer 4/40 screws than the stock ones that go
in the bumper & replace the 2 bottom ones with the longer
ones, that stopped mine from stripping out so easily on my
xxx-nt.

[racer13]

what i do to aline my steering is take out the servo, and make sure its plugged in. then turn on your radio and the servo will straighten itself back to the up position, then take your servo horn and then make it 1 notch to the right side so its all a tiny angle, install it like that. thats how it says in my manual, and works great!

[DJ BlendeR]

Yeah I had a similar problem. I was loosening the nut on the swing arm, I don't know the technical term, but its right near where the servo link connects. I figured turning the wheels with the servo attached only 2 or 3 times wouldn't hurt it... BIG mistake, I went into my next race and I couldn't control the sucker. So I had to stop for like 25 seconds to get my steering trim halfway decent.

On a lighter note, I finally finished a race in a position other than last! I finished first in the F-main of stock truck. I think I would have been in the E or even D main, but I broke on all three of my qualifying heats.

[Railman]

For installing ball cups without marking them, just use an adjustable wrench. It works perfect for me, & doesn't require "Popeye" arms either. I keep two small key chain size, & one 5" in our pit box. They come in handy for other things too.
Joe

[thijs]

hi,
I'm planning to buy a losi triple X-T MFE.
But what's the best number of turns(like: a drirect-drive is 15Turns and a 4wd sedan is 12Turns)?

Thijs

[Shoey]

Gotta problem:
I have a 2000 mAh battery, Associated Fury Modified 12T Quad Motor and a Novak Explorer 2 ESC. As always, my battery gets warm after use. My problem is that my motor wires get hot too, and have even melted the insulation and shorted together. the rubber shielding on the bullet connectors is also melting. Is this from a faulty ESC ?? I have never seen this before, please help. Lost as always, Shoey

[mardigan]

Thanks for the help earlier, the 4-40 7/8th screws worked great on the bulkhead and the steering is back on track.

thijs - If you are just basking a 15 isn't bad but I've seen guys at my track race with a 10. Just depends on how much speed you want versus how much you want to work on it. There is always brushless...

Shoey - What type of connectors are you using? You may want to do some direct soldering as a test or look at some Deans plugs. Could be resistance in the wires or something else but that connectors is a good place to start.

Then again, since I'm too lazy to look can your ESC handle a 12T?

[racer13]

what mardigan said was correct, your esc cant handle 12turns.. it can only handle up to 15t. that might be your problem.

[DJ BlendeR]

Yeah, and also directly solder like mardigan said. Bullet connectors are lame. Also, if you are running tamiya battery plugs, upgrade to A-mode (or duratrax) or deans plugs. they are really good on lowering resistance.

[Shoey]

Thanks for the help everyone. I will get some of the new connectors. Good idea on the direct soldering with the motor wires, I will do that tonight. Thanks again. Shoey

[NitroOwnsYou]

I just wanted to say I got my XXX-T MF running and it absolutely rocks!

Specs are as follows

XXX-T MF

Reedy Ti 12x2
Novak GT7 ESC
Novak Xxtra (still waiting for a Novak Switch 4 my M8)
GP 3300 Batts


My question is, I have plenty of runtime left on my batts, my motor is plenty cool, Im running a 16T pinion, and the track I run on has a 90' straight, can I go up a few teeth on the pinion for a bit more speed on the straight?? Im used to gas, so when they said use a lower tooth pinion on a mod vs a stocker, I was baffled. :D

TKS!

-JR

[racer13]

NitroOwnsYou,


how do u like your reedy?? i just bought a 11x2 for christmas (grandma bought for me), i havent got it yet but was wondering.. i also might buy the gt7, how do you like that also?

[ryankid]

well sorry if this question has been asked to much but had to ask, seems like u guys know what ur talken about. IM getting into racing and im going to get a XXXT prolly a MF edition. I was hoping some of u guys could give me some good choices on remote controls and maybe some motors. Im not for sure what all i will need totally. SO any help on motors remotes and batterys would be appreciated. thanks

[Shoey]

Well if you are starting out, I would recomend that you start racing stock. Its cheaper, and a little slower, so you can get aquanted to your new truck. To race stock class, you need a 'stock' motor. Then, you need to pick out your pinion gear, which comes down to aceleration or top speed. When it comes to stock, batteries are what win races. So I would recomend getting a good battery. Speed controls are also a good thing to invest in. It has been my experience that NOVAK is the way to go. I hope this helps

Bottom line you need:

XXT kit of your choice
2 Channel radio system (transmitter, reciever, servo)
Speed control
Motor
Pinion Gear
Battery
Charger

[wavejake]

If I want the most speed what pinion and spur gear do I use?
If I want the most acceleration what pinion and what spur do I use?

Thanks.

[thijs]

Thanx for the reply, I have A 12 triple from Corally.
I think I'm going to use that one.
I am going to buy the losi xxx-t mfe next week.

But I have another question: What kind of setup-tools do I need?
I already have A camber gauge from RPM, do I need more?

I heard that losi's shockabsorbers are hard to build.
I also heard that losi has A special tool(a sort of wrench) for it, can someone give me the order-number of it?

Thijs

[Nexus]

for the XXXT MF the kit comes with everything you would need to build it...

lock tight, allen wrenches, ect.

and actually Losi shocks are much easier to build then AE kits.


Nexus

[Shoey]

Wavejake:
When it comes to gearing, here is the rule of thumb:

Top Speed: High teeth Pinion, Low teeth Spur
Top Acceleration: Low teeth Pinion, High teeth Spur

Some where in the middle is where you will find your nitch. Getting there is up to you. Good luck.

[mardigan]

I actually like the Losi shocks. If you want a shock tool RPM has one for about $5 (RPM 70732).

The kit does come with all that you need but I have come to love my hex drivers, they are much easier to work with than the included allen wrenches. The two I always use would be the 1/16 & 3/32. The Hudy wrenches are worth a look.

[thijs]

thanxs mardigan and nexus!

Now I know I don't have to buy a lot of extra stuff.
I agree with you mardigan, those Hudy tools are great, I already have got some tools from Hudy(for my Corally C4.1).

[ryankid]

thanks for all the help so far guys. I have decided to get a MFE and i just bought a trinity pro motor for it. I was wondering if anyone would give me there opinion on what they like or hate

im looking at the

JR XR3
maybe the R-1
and the M8
i was told the JR xr3 servo that comes with it isnt very good, is the servos that come with the M8 good enough, so i wouldnt have to buy new ones??

Also im looking at the novak cyclone or the LPR ti(i think thats what its called) speed control

i think im going to get the trinity 1400 batteries but if anyone know better let me know(im going to run stock)

and i also was wondering if it matters what charger i start out with. thanks for any help

[Tstalion79]

Jake. With that stock motor you want to stick with the pinion that i gave you. Any lower and you wont have any top speed, any higher and you will ruin the motor.

[DJ BlendeR]

Ryankid, how long are the heats at your track? I think that the 1400's won't do you any good and that you shouldn't waste your time buying them. At my track we run 5 minute heats and I run in stock class. I last only 4 min with my brand new 1700's. My older 1500 and 2000 packs won't last me even 3. I use SMC 2400 matched packs, these are awesome packs! They are about $50 each, but in the end worth it. If you can't spend that much, I would atleast get a set of 1900's or thereabouts, otherwise you might not be crossing the finish line.

Tstalion; the track wavejake and I run at is super tight. It isn't uncommon to use pinions from 16-19 teeth there, and I know of no one who is ruining their motors.

[ryankid]

Well im just starting racing, never have yet, jsut getting all my new stuff for xmas. Let the gf buy me things :). Well i think the races are 5 mins could be 4 though. But i was told that the stock class are batteries 1500 and under, and pro stock is anyting over 1500. im not to clear on these things. thats why im trying to figure out what all i need to get off the bat. Do u think a normal peak charger will be ok to start, instead of dropping 150-500 on a charger??thanks

[Part-time]

You can get a good charger for under $200. Quasar, Integy, LRP to name a few. Are you sure about those packs run at your local track? There not very strong.
Stock: I wouldn't go any less than a 2400. Depending on the track size thats how you'll pick you motor. tourque or top end in what you need to decide on. I would go to the track and find out what people are using before you buy. And remember to support your LHS if they don't price gouge you.

[ryankid]

Ur right and there not really my LHS but i still am going to support them becuase im going to race there. the guy that is winning the STOCK class series is using the panosonic trinity; 1400. You have to run 1500 or under in the stock class, its a rule, its a smaller track. PRO STOCK is over 1500 . thanks for the help

[JEEL]

Hey,


Just purchased a used (barely) XXX-T MFE and there is some noise coming from the tranny. I disassembled the gearbox, and the gears and diff are in great shape. This leads me to believe that I have a worn out spur gear/pinion gear? When I roll the truck with the pinion removed, the noise is not present. Please let me know if you think I am on the right track. Thanks.

P.S. Glad I made the switch from my T3 FT...the XXX-T is just that much more easy to get around a track!

[JEEL]

Hey,


Just purchased a used (barely) XXX-T MFE and there is some noise coming from the tranny. I disassembled the gearbox, and the gears and diff are in great shape. This leads me to believe that I have a worn out spur gear/pinion gear? When I roll the truck with the pinion removed, the noise is not present. Please let me know if you think I am on the right track. Thanks.

P.S. Glad I made the switch from my T3 FT...the XXX-T is just that much more easy to get around a track!

[JEEL]

Hey,


Just purchased a used (barely) XXX-T MFE and there is some noise coming from the tranny. I disassembled the gearbox, and the gears and diff are in great shape. This leads me to believe that I have a worn out spur gear/pinion gear? When I roll the truck with the pinion removed, the noise is not present. Please let me know if you think I am on the right track. Thanks.

P.S. Glad I made the switch from my T3 FT...the XXX-T is just that much more easy to get around a track!

[Aluma]

what a rip off ... i got those shiny CVD's cuz they're supposed to be stronger.. one of them cracked during my first run. Some one found it later that day.

[Racer123091]

either your diff is set too loose or your gear mesh is not right, reset your gear mesh until there is a very small click and tighten your diff until you can't turn the third wheel while holding the other wheel and the spur gear

[lbckevin]

Aluma,

The shiny CVD's are chrome plated steel cvd's ...They should be very hard to break. The usual culprit it improper building of the cvd's. The other way ...is that you are driving too hard or boyond your capabilities.

On another note.... You can return the CVD's to MIP with a nice letter and receipt and they will send you a replacement. MIP has a great customer service department.

Good Luck Racing..

[Aluma]

thanks for the info guys! I dont think i built them wrong. I've built other before with no problems. Maybe i did overdrive? oh well, i dont think i did, but i'll do that slipper stuff, maybe its loose.

[NitroOwnsYou]

Did you loctite that set screw? That can loosen up very easily w/o loc tite, and sometimes will loosen with Blue loctite.

-JR

[24601]

I am sure this has been discussed, but with mile long threads who could go back to read it all.

I am going to need a diff rebuild on my MFE. Should I look for some sort of upgrade on the balls and rings? I must confess, the Acer chick has me wondering if I should look their direction. I also heard MIP has something that would be better. Or, should I just stick with Losi.

Thanks.

[LosiMan3456]

I have had great luck with the losi diff balls. I think they are he carbide ones. Correct me if Im wrong but arent those better than the stock diff balls?

I have never tried the acer or anything though. Also check out Better Balls (www.betterballs.com)

When you rebuild the diff use associated white grease on the diff balls and associated blck grease on the thrust. This will giv you a super smooth diff.

[therealdanimal]

I'm using the ceramic nitride diff balls from acer in my XXX with MIP diff lube and losi white grease on the thrust balls, it is still smooth with about 5 days of racing on it, and they're lighter than the losi balls! However, I haven't taken it apart for cleaning and inspection since I only put about 30 packs on my car since the installation, so I'm not sure on durability yet. I also have their ceramic nitride bearing kit installed and my car is very smooth.

[thijs]

I'm sooooo happy with this truck, it looks sooo coool!!!

There was said to me that is was hard to build, but I think that isn't really true.

There is one sad thing: I haven't driven it, because I haven't got the right pinion.
I thougt(I still think) there was A 48dp spur gear supplied(It's red I thougt it was A 88 touth gear).
But my own 48dp(0.6module) pinions from Tamiya don't fit, the touths are to large. :confused:

Can someone PLEASE tell my how this can happen?
And can you give me some company names that make pinions for this truck?

PLEASE answer quick, because I wan't to drive this mean machine!

[Nexus]

Anyone on this board use or have experience with the Peak Hellfire RS24 Blueprinted?

I hear some pretty good things about their mod motors.

Any input/feedback would be appreciated.


Nexus

[tarvymoto]

Thijs , thes red spur is 86 tooth. You can get 48 pitch pinions from Robinson Racing , Trinity , ect. Are you sure thos Tamaiya's aren't 64 pitch?

[thijs]

no, I've got the 48dp(0.6 module) and 64dp(0.4 module),I try them both but they won't fit.
Very strange:confused: :confused:

Thanks anyway!

[thijs]

Hi Nexus,

I think the RS24 hellfire from Peak-motors are very good.
Joe Pilllers won the 16th annual Cactus Classic in the stock truck class with it.
I don't drive with that motor, but I think it looks a little bit similair to the Core stock from Team Orion.

Good luck with it!:D

[Scrad]

The Hellfire and the Core are the same motors, just different labels. TOP stands for Team Orion and Peak.

[24601]

I believe tamiya pinions are metric 48 pitch and Losi (and most everyone else) uses standard 48 pitch. Perhaps that will help.

[wolfboy117]

Im thinking about getting a Peak Carrera 11x2 Mod motor. Is this a good choice? I have another question to. Im planning on getting som hex wrenches, because the little things that came with my kit kep stripping and in some instinces they even stripped my screws. What brand should I get?

[Casper]

The 11X2 is a great motor. For tools the best IMO are the MIP/Thorp wrenches. They have the yellow handles. Any of these brands will get you top quality wrenches and you can choose which handles you will want to work with, Losi, Trinity, Hudy, AE, Racers Edge all make great tool with GROUND TIPS. This is the key. Make sure they have tool steel ground tips on them. This means they will last a long time an not strip out your screws!

[wolfboy117]

I have another question. Sould I go with a Novak ESC or an LRP ESC. If I were to go with Novak I would get the Dually or if I were to go with LRP I would probablly get the IPC Pro Sport. Im leaning towards the LRP one though I have heard that Novak would be a better way to go.

[Scrad]

I run the Carrera in my truck and touring car and I love the motors. I run probably 3 race days and then I notice a little drop off in performance. But they run strong and I've never had a problem overheating them.

I also have Dynamite wrenches and they are very good too and a little cheaper than other brands.

And I also have the LRP pro sport. I really liked it, but I smoked it racing on a 13 turn motor and the limit is 12, so who knows. I did however send it back and they gave me a brand new one in about a week or so. I only paid for the shipping to them. So it cost me about 4 dollars to send it back. But either way both speed controls are good, but I'd lean toward the LRP. Just my opinion.

[Gutter Ball]

Both mentioned ESC's have no motor limit. The Super Sport has the 12 turn limit. The Dually has a slightly lower resistance if that matters :) The LRP already has 4 wires (2 motor, 2 battery) while with the Dually, there are 3 and you'd have to solder another wire to get 2 positives. I run a Dually in my MF.

[thijs]

What's the differents between the metric 48 pitch and the regular 48 pitch?

The touths from Tamiya are A little bit bigger if you compare them with those from Losi.

I'm going to buy some new pinions, I think from Trinity.
But witch pinion should I get, I drive with the red(86 touth) spur gear and A 12x3 motor?

Already a lot of thanks!

[Casper]

17/86 for a 12 turn motor.

[wess]

hey guys, i'm new here to the xxxt forum since i just got an MF xxxt for christmas. i finished building it and threw in an MF p94, tc2 and some 3000s. i would like to run a stocker but i need some gearing suggestions with the red 86t spur...:confused:

also, my diff seems to slosh from side to side in the gearbox between the bearings.:eek:

[Casper]

The p2k2 and the Core/hellfire motors are what I would suggest for stockers. The p2k2 I run at 18/86 and the core/hellfire I run at 17-18/86 depending on the track. Larger track larger pinion. check out my web site and I have a gear chart for different stock motors on it. http://home.att.net/~casper04

[thijs]

thanks casper for the awnser!:D

[wess]

thanks for the gearing chart!

i'm still puzzled as to why the diff sloshes back and forth between the bearings! i went over the assembly a few times and everything was done according to the manual.... please help :(

[Moo-Shoe]

The tranny case is kind of generic on the Losi. There is going to be some play in it. Losi does sell a shim kit for this though. You don't want the diff to be too tight in there, but you don't want a half inch of play either. :)

[Casper]

The extra side to side play is not a big deal. It really will not effect the performance. Like Moo-Shoe said losi does sell shims to fix this if you really want to. The shims are really for there older style tranny but will work for this also. I would not worry about it too much.

[wess]

ok, thanks guys! i'll leave it for now...

regarding the diff tightness, i've always been running touring cars and a tmaxx (gear diff) so i'm not used to how tight the diff should be. i've seen my friend melt the white gear in his xxx-spec from setting it too loose, but i also don't want to set it too tight... please help before i have to learn the hard way :(

[Moo-Shoe]

A good place to start is to lock the diff adjusting screw, then back it off about 1/8 of a turn. Make sure you are "working" the diff as you tighten it to get all the parts to seat correctly.

After you set the diff the first time, run it a bit and check it again as the screw most likely will have come loose a bit during your run.

[Casper]

Actually the washers begin to develope a groove and everything settles into place the first time you run it which usually means it gets a little looser. Moo-Shoe has it right on a good starting point. It really becomes a feel thing when knowing how tight the diff is. It should be smooth but have some resistance. If it spins easily it is too loose. Talk to a friend or the hobby shop and they can tell you how to set it. It is easiest if you can have someone else set it for the first time and then you can feel how tight that is when turning the tires and remember that for future builds.

[Nexus]

thanks to all who left info about the Hellfire....

i'm ordering 2 today...can't wait to run the Peak Hellfire w/ my Peak RC-3300 HV World specs!


Nexus
Team Primitive

[wolfboy117]

I have a XXX-T Spec Truck, and one of the turnbuckels that came with it is defective. On one side the threads dont connect and in result i cant get my ball cup onto the turnbuckel. Should I just buy a new one, or should I ue this to my advantage and buy some lunsford Ti's? I already emailed Losi to see if they could give me a new but they didnt respond.

[dkj-M3]

you'll get a quicker respones calling them directly.

[Casper]

wolfboy-- Losi is changing buildings right now so there communications are down for a short while and I am sure they have some holiday catching up to do. Losi will replace your stock ti rod for free but in all honisty get the lunsford. It will save you some headache in the future. This is the VERY first hop up on should get for there car!

[wess]

my friend got a xxxt spec a few months ago and had some problems with the kit, so i was quite hesitant to go for my first losi kit.

1 bearing for the geabox was missing and one of the front hinge pins didn't have a groove for an e-clip!!!:eek: on top of that, we had problems assembling the driveshafts because 2 spiral pins were WAY too big. i filed them down half way and they still wouldn't get in the slightest bit. i ended up getting frustrated, placed the pin over the hole and held it with plyers, wrapped the plyers with a towel and jumped on it with 160 pounds of brute force. luckily, the pin popped in at the perfect spot but my plyers snapped in half...the price of the driveshafts and plyers added together could have bought us some cvds instead:mad:

well enough of my ranting, i'm just glad my mf went together well for the $$$ i payed for the thing. as for the turnbuckles, buy the lunsford ones, losi takes way too long (if ever) to reply/replace. plus, you'll probably end up getting titanium turnbuckles anyway sooner or later.:D

[wolfboy117]

Im just gonna buy some Lunsford Ti's. I was just wondering what kit did you get wess? Im guessing its a XXX-T truck but is it spec or MFE?

[wess]

affirmative!

yep i just got a xxxt mf edition for christmas, my best friend has had the xxxt spec for a few months with those problems i mentioned...:eek:

[jpel200]

Ok, I have been reading from the very begiinning, hoping to not ask questions that have already been asked. However, I have not found a post that lists the colors for the different spur gears. The reason I ask, is the xxxt sport comes with a dark green spur that is 88 teeth, but the new 88 is yellow. And thanks to all you guys for posting. I am trying to make good notes so I don't forget all this stuff! LOL...... This site is the greatest! oh, and....................... LOSI RULES! hehehehehe:D

[tarvymoto]

white=78
yellow=82
purple=84
red=86
green=88(green is just a tad darker that yellow)
orange=90
92=blue

it goes something like that

[jpel200]

Thanks tarvymoto.......Now I have some sort of clue! hehehe Now, does someone make a solid steel set of suspension arms? LOL... Just kidding, I am new to offroading and reletively new to r/c. Doing a "bang up" job of keeping my suspension arms new! LOL....... But I am having a blast going through the learning curve! :D

[thijs]

I totally agree with you jpel200.
This is the greatest site and the best forum!
And yes Losi Rulezz!!!

[racer13]

i have a xxxt mfe w/ reedy 11x2 and wondering what gearing i should use? right now im using 17/86, motor doesnt seem to be heating up. Thanks.

[Casper]

That sounds about right but you can gear up one if the motor is not getting to hot and you want more top end.

[racer13]

well, i am not even sure of the topend right now.. as i've only driven the new motor for about 1 minute (inside my house) it's been raining constantly for a week now :(

[Casper]

You cannot gage motor temp from one minute in your house! Keep the gearing as you have it and check it after about 4 min of driving at speed. If it is still not overly hot then you can think about a gearing change.

[tarvymoto]

Casper , have you had a chance to try the TRC tires?. I just bought a set of "Magic" rears and a set of "Sonic" rears to test with. They feel great mounted on Losi rims. We recently stop watering our local track in efforts to try and get it to groove. Instead of watering ...we blow it of every other round for quallys and before every main.

[Casper]

No I have not. I run mostly losi tires and have been working on getting Panther tires to work but I have not tried any of the TRC tires yet. I am not even sure I have seen any at my lhs yet! I like the look of the sonic for blue groove though. They seem to have good tread designs but I do not have any experience with them.

[tarvymoto]

Casper , I'm not racing this weekend but I'll post som feedback next weekend. The foam inserts that come with these tires come pre-trimmed...the inside edge is allready pre-bevelled. Also , the "soft' compound feels nice and sticky....just a tic harder than Losi red if any. The foams are just a pinch firmer than Losi firm but not as firm as Bomb2. I'm impressed.

Travis

[Casper]

They sound interesting. I am looking forward to hearing what you think.

[jpel200]

Ok, let me axe you all something that I have been wondering about. Does changing the size of your spur and pinion help the motor any when you gear them in such a way that you come out to almost the same gearing? It seems like this should have some benifit,, But I am not sure what. Like can you run the motor cooler, but still hit the same gear ratio that you want, or maybe one gives you more rpm but less torque ( or vis versa)?
For example:
You are running an 88 tooth spur/ 20 tooth pinion and then
changed them out for a 79 tooth spur ( not sure they even make that, but that is not the issue here! LOL ) and an 18 tooth pinion ( and thus staying real close to your same final gear ratio) What kind of benefit would that have, if any... man, I am confusing myself here! LOL... Hope some of you can see what I am trying to ask. LOL
I was just wondering about it one day. LOL
John

[tarvymoto]

jpel , I don't have time right now to fully explain but the answer is no. Ratio is ratio no matter the gears.

[thijs]

jepl200,

I think there is only one thing:
If you're driving with the smaller gears you have a lighter drive(train) mass. So that results that motor haven't got "work" harder than normal. Youre RPM is also higher. That result in faster accelaration and a higer top end.

>>> BUT, that's in theorie, you don't feel or see any difference, because there isn't much weight difference.

good luck with it,

Thijs

[Casper]

thijs-- Has a point but I think the extra mass in the larger metal pinion will be worse then then mass lost in the spur. Regardless you will not notice anything that results from that and like tarvymoto said a ratio is a ratio. If the final ration is the same the motor will work just as hard and will not run cooler or go faster. Now with that said there is a benefit or actually something else that happens with this. The smaller a spur you have the further forward the motor is in the car. This changes that weight balance of the car. There were some team drivers that were playing with this concept for tuning there cars under certain conditions so it is something worth mentioning. It is kind of like moving your battery fwd or backward. You move the motor by using a bigger or smaller spur. Now you want to complensate with the correct size pinion when you do this to get the same final ratio as you had before to get the motor to perform as before but now you have a different balance to the car. Does that make sense?

[jpel200]

Si...thanks guys. This was just something that stuck in my head one day. LOL.

Casper- that makes perfect sense, and something that I had note even thought of. It just seemed to me, that doing something like that ought to make a difference somewhere. LOL.

thaniks guys! Anymore ideas on the subject?

[cscade]

OK guys and gals, I've decided to open a new forum for us. It's dedicated to the XXX-T (although we can still add more cars & trucks as we want them), and so it will allow for much better separation of topics about the truck, and will allow for much better searches as well. It runs on my own server space, so it should be quick for everyone too! I encourage everyone to check it out, and at least give it a shot, even though you may be used to this board as an old comfortable shoe :D

I find it very difficult to hunt through all of the 48 pages of this thread looking for information, and although this forum will continue to be an invaluable resource, I would like to see us using something that allows for better searches to make finding all this great information easier.

The link to the new forum is http://www.liquidarts.net/forum/

I am always looking for feedback!

[jpel200]

One thing is when you say gear up, do you mean increase the size of the pinion or spur? My motor (P2k2) gets pretty hot running a pretty open track with a 24 tooth pinion.

Second thing, I have been trying to set my truck up... I have this problem with bottoming out. I have 55 pistons all around... pinks springs in back, yeloow in front... also, 35 wt oil all around..On the tracks that I have been racing, I have been trying to keep my ride hight down for traction...and steering...But like I said.. I keep bottoming out on jumps. Any ideas? I know there are alot of toher things to consider, but too much to write in one post. LOL

john

[Casper]

First off bottoming out is a normal thing. The only time it becomes bad is when the car bounces after it lands. You can run a smaller holed pistion which will give the car more pack and this will help some but more then likely it will always bottom out! You car will not handle bumps and turns at all if you set it up just so it does not bottom out. In case you wanted to know I run 27.5 wt and 56 pistions on all four corners of my truck. I only go up in wieght when I run outdoor and it is hot. I will go up to 30-32.5 depending on the temperature.

When you say gear up that almost ALWAYS means on the pinion. Going larger on the spur will reduce the gear ratio. 24/86 is too tall a gear for a p2k2. Try 18/86 for a p2k2 as a good starting point. If it is really open you can go 19 but I would never go above a 20!

[jpel200]

Gee, you really are a friendly ghost. :D

Thanks alot. Probably helped me not smoke my motor. hehehe. When you let all the smoke out of them, they quit running. :eek:

I guess I forgot to say that I was running an 88 tooth spur. But I am thinking they are close enough that the 18 is still a good idea huh? Thanks for the info on the setup too. I have my truck running pretty smooth except for a little bottoming out on jumps and I didn't think that was normal. Been rackin' the ole nogging trying get it to stop and still have traction. LOL. It's not bouncing at all. And steers well right after landing, so I guess I am doing ok. By the way, your website is pretty cool. Been there a couple of times. Take it easy, and thanks again.

John

[clw]

General advice needed for returning racer...(with a lot of questions)

For a XXXT if I use a P2K2 will the batteries that came with the 1/2 completed truck, 1700's and 2000's, in general last a 5 minute event?

Bought this package used and am not familar with how a truck impacts run time compared to my XXX buggy.

Thanks

[Casper]

Glad to help John!:)

clw-- 1700's may be pushing it for 5 min. They should last that long depending on how old they are but they will loose performance pretty bad at the end. 2000's will be fine though again assuming the are not too old. (old being over 2 years!) Trucks kill batteries a little faster then buggies because they are heavier which makes the motor work a little harder but this is not a real significant degredation in performance.

[clw]

Thanks Mr. Ghost:
I think they're just over 2 years old, I guess I could gear down for awhile if it's close.

[Casper]

I would test them and see hoe long they last. Cycle them a couple of times and see if they get better. If you have a charger that has a pulse mode charge them using that and it should help give them a little more run time. If all else fails try charing them at a lower amp rate. It will take longer for them to charge and you will loose a little punch but they should give you some longer run times!

[clw]

Thanks again!

My old, very old, Tekin charger has a setting for either pulse (NICAD's) or linear (SCE?, remember them?). So you're suggesting to use the pulse setting at a lower, say 3 amp, charge rate?
When cycling the cells what should the cut-off voltage be for a 6 cell pack? Is 5.4v (0.9v/cell) right? Seems I remember that number.

[Casper]

The old tekin chargers had a SCE and a SCR setting and if you had one of the cool ones they had a reverse pulse mode. If you have that charge your batteries using that! I would charge them at 4 amps normally. See if they have enought run time after you run them a couple times and if not try 3.5 or 3 amps.

[clw]

Is it 0.6 or 0.9 per cell for SCR's? It's been too long ago for me to remember, thanks.

[wess]

hey guys, i've got monster jam coming to town in a week and i'll need my truck running nice and fast for the r/c demo. the organizers said they prefer nitro because it's more "impressive" but i'm not in the mood to have to fire up the maxx at every 5 min break.

so i'll be running my xxxt with an mf p94 11x2 to keep up with the rest of the nitro guys, but i need some gearing suggestions for it. i'm using the stock red 86t spur, but what pinion do you guys suggest?

thanks!:)

[UberGamer256]

Wrong thread.

[racer13]

i say 17-18t pinion for that motor.

[Casper]

.9V per cell or 5.4V cutoff for a 6 cell pack.

16-17/86 for a 11 turn motor in a truck.

[racer13]

you told me 17t-18t in my 11x2 in my mfe !!!! :rolleyes: :p

[cscade]

OK folks, I'm confused.

I just built a pack out of 3300 NiMH cells that I got from Pro Match batteries. Works great except... it won't fit in my XXXT MF! My other packs (NiCD) all fit just fine, but this pack wont! I'm using deans battery bars on them (the type just for these cells) and the bars do not protrude far past the cells. However, it would seem that the problem is that the cells themselves are longer than the older ones. Not by much, but just enough to make the difference. What gives? How do you guys run these cells or cells like them in your trucks?

Thanx