Team Losi XXXT Forum v1.0

[Nairb]

<u>This is a thread specific to Losi's awesome 2wd off-road electric truck</u>.

Here's a question. What color wheels do you all use? I use white wheels all around, and I think it looks 300% better than the stock yellows. Anyway, discuss away...

[This message has been edited by Nairb (edited 03-02-2001).]

[SirSpeedy]

What about the new blue wheels? I am sure they will be available for the truck soon.....

[J mAn]

I love the neon yellow! I use them and I have all of the other neon yellow hop-ups available. My body is painted neon yellow and silver.

[J mAn]

the white wheels look best with the blue dirt spec tires.

[Nairb]

Well, let me just say you'll never see me buying those blue wheels...

Hey Sir, when is a situation that would make you think about trying CVDs instead of the Losi universals? You say they're a tuning option, so I want to know if you ever utilize that option.

Here's a recent racing mishap. I was going about my business, kicking serious booty in the second qualifer, last Saturday when all of the sudden my left wheel had no more suspension or support. It just so happens that the screw in the bottom of the left rear shock came out. This is a brand new truck! I decided to fix that so it would never happen again. I found some screws in my toolbox that were 1/8" longer and replaced the original ones with them, then I put a tiny Losi locknut on the end to keep it there securely. Now this should stop that from happening again. I highly recommend you do this as a precautionary measure. Any other tips to share, guys?

[This message has been edited by Nairb (edited 03-03-2001).]

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

I toltaly agree, nairb. The same thing happend to my excepet it was my first race and I was leading the A main by 1/2 lap and what happens?? the shock comes out on the same place so I did the same thing. No probelms yet!

Here's a good tip. you can buy the AE B2 front brace and it will fit the XXX and XXX-T. Also you can male a brace from the servo brace to the bulk head. it works good (make sure you use the B2 front brace).

[XXXER]

I will show you Joel Eatons truck today brian, he did it, BTW, here is that little forum i was looking for.......

[doublet]

My brother has the strangest xxx-t setup that really works.... he has 30wt oil up front and 25wt in rear..... 2.75" white springs for front and 2.5" orange for rear! Weird huh? It works good on our soft loose dirt track with not very big jumps

[Nairb]

Can you post pics? I'm having a hard time seeing what you're saying.

[SirSpeedy]

Narib-

It is pretty complex. There are so many views on the subject. This is mine. I feel the Losi bones bind more in the universal, thus giving you more forward traction and side bite when on power. CVD's bind less, which results in less side/forward bite.

There is a difference, I can guarrantee you of that. What that difference is to you, who knows.

BTW, Losi makes a front hinge pin brace, PN# A-4137, $4.00.

[Nairb]

So am I right when I think it's a tuning option that you never use, Sir?

[Nairb]

Also, I let XXXER try out my XXXT on Saturday and he said it had loads of push (I guess I'm just used to it). What would be the best way to fix that? We were thinking that directionals instead of 8 ribs would help out, but is that going to be enough?

[SirSpeedy]

On-power or off-power?

What compound of 8ribs were you running, and whay rears/compound were you running?

[XXXER]

Silver Losi 8-ribs, with M3 Holeshots, i say some red Directionals, it was more "on" power, when going into the sweeper at the end of the straight. I dunno, it was enough to handle, but i am sure he could turn faster laps

[Nairb]

Yes, those are the tires that I'm using now. I'd have to agree that I'm pushing on-power, because I find myself letting off the gas a lot to turn sharper.

You know, a lot of people keep telling me to try orange front springs. What will changing from red to orange in the front do for me? Also, what about changing from pinks to red in the rear? All the rest is still stock setup, except I've removed the antisquat shims.

Steve, today I took out my servo and recentered it and reset the EPA, and I think that will help a bit. I wasn't getting all my travel, but it wasn't extremely underadjusted.

Thanks Speedy.

[SirSpeedy]

Wow.....

M3 on one end, and Silver on the other....I bet that pushes like mad....lol....

I generally run only Losi tires, or only Pro-Line's....mixing the two tend to be bad...

The kit setup is pretty balanced on the Triple T. I have never ran at your track, so it's hard to make a tire suggestion from 2000 miles away, but your problem it seems is defintely tires. When Skyler was at out place his dad said that BK Bars, and Tapers worked at your place. If that is the case, why now try Red Tapers?

I would go to Red T-2000's/Tapers on the rear, or try M3 Edges on the front. I try to run Losi tires first, but often the Proline's will have a slight edge.....

Remember, running M3 rubber might make the truck feel more hooked up, but the Losi rubber might allow greater corner speed due to the truck being 'freeer'.....

See ya...

BTW, I rarely run CVD's.

[Nairb]

OK, I tried some red T-2000s first, but they only work best when the track is very new (1st & 2nd race days). I swear everybody runs Holeshots, so I tried them and they are great. I'll have to get some new fronts for sure, but I'll have to decide which ones. My silver taper pins didn't work well at all, and my friends say that reds don't either. It's either pink tapers or Holeshots most of the time. So next on my list are definitely some pink taper pins and red or pink directionals. I've decided. I hope I can get more steering then, and I'm sure I will.

[SirSpeedy]

Well,

The only way to gain on power steering is to reduce rear traction.

Why did you remove the A/S shims? More A/S would give you more on power steering(by reducing side bite), more offpower steering( by unloading the rear easier. Is your track bumpy?

When you say you have to let off a lot for turns, that would indicate to me that you need more offpower steering. You would want to left off, turn-in, and get on it again... Orange Springs are one step stiffer on the front, which would reduce weight transfer to the front, and increase high speed steering(in sweepers, etc.) You could try a thicker oil/heavier spring in the rear to free up the rear and make it turn as well.

My suggestion:

1st - Increase A/S by 2deg
2nd - Move camber link to A hole on rear hub carrier
3rd - Go out one hole on the rear tower w/pink spring
4th - Go back to old hole with red spring

How much bite does your track have? Will mod 2whl wheelie at will?

[Nairb]

I removed the A/S shims because I thought the explanations I read about the results sounded good, and also because they annoyed me. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gifDuh! I'll put them back ASAP. My track is generally smmoth, but always bumpy in some areas.

I think I'll also move the camber link and rear shock tower holes like you said. So do you suggest the orange springs for me or not?

I think I might try Adam Drake's standard setup, what do you think about it?

Our track has a lot of bite, but wheelies aren't that easy to do.

[SirSpeedy]

Hmmmm....

If your track is pretty high bite, you may need a total stiffening of the whole truck.

Let me cruise over and check the setups on Losi's site......Wow...I haven't looked at them in a while...The Drake's standard setup is very similar to mine...looks like the only difference is that I only run 0.060" limiters in the front, and I generally run the B hole in the rear hubs...

A good high bite setup though.....lol....

You can try anything...since you can always go back....the kit setup should have loads of traction on your surface...so much it should feel sluggish.....I would play with the tires and the aforementioned adjustments....

See ya...

[Nairb]

I'm going to try Drake's setup. Aren't the springs the same length front & rear? So if I want to try red in the rear and orange up front, I only need to buy orange, right? I've already moved the shock tower locations in the rear and I've moved the outer camber link to the A-hole (hehe), and I'll do the shims tomorrow. I hope I don't screw up my good rhythm I've had thus far on my track... Is there anything you don't reccomend I do like Adam's setup?

Here's a problem I have. Why have I already lost two teflon seals from my bearings? I know they should last longer than that, what's the deal?

Thanks, sir.

[Nairb]

Adam's setup says he uses no AS shims, what do you think? Should I add them or not?

Are the stock pistons similar enough to the drilled ones Adam uses? What do you use?\

I'm going for orange springs in front & red in the rear, ok?

Would you reccomend red or pink directionals for me?

Thanks for letting me pick your brain some more. How are your PSs? Mine started acting up a little bit. When I plug it in the green LED flashes once, then doesn't turn on like it should. I unplug it and it goes bright for a sec and then fades out. I figured out that if I plug it back in when it's bright, it will stay bright and work normally. Weird, huh? Any troubles with yours?

Nairb

[Nairb]

I just realized that my bearing blew out! It didn't just lose its seal, it's totally ruined! What the crap is going on? Sir, can I get Losi to replace it? What do I do now? I haven't mistreated my truck at all. How annoying...

[XXXER]

A-hole. hehe, either way, he is right, he takes care of his truck way to good to blowout a bearing. Speedy, i think he is looking for more on-power, like through the sweeper, i would slow down, hit the apex, gun it, and it would go way out by the wall, i think it is probably the fronts. we are looking for more on power most likely. My car is quite twitchy, i think, i am gonna try some toe-out, but i kinda like it. I run pretty much stock setup usually, with my buggy, i run M3 Hole shots, and M3 Blade out front, with wide wheels. B-position on the caster block, and when the track gets dusty, i run Square Fuzzies(M3 again) Most everyone is running Red BK bars on buggies, but since i have no cash to, i am still running the Holeshots. With trucks, most everyone is running holeshots. Wheelies, the E-maxx can barely do them, even though it is very abrasive clay we run on.

That is all i can think of for now

[Nairb]

Well, I just bought a replacement bearing, but I still think Losi should replace it. I e-mailed Adam Drake about a few things, anf I'll see what he says. My truck is all set up as he does it (except for the front tires & shock pistons so far), so we'll see what happens now.

[SirSpeedy]

Well,

It seems like you guys are on the right track.

Try to free up the the rear of the truck to get it to carve the high speed corners...

As for your bearing, you have to really watch them. That is just to nature of the Teflon seals. It happens for no rhyme or reason....Do you know how to be sure that they are held in properly? There should be a little section on Losi's site under Pit Tips that shows how to remove and properly install the circlips in the bearings.

At the WinterChamps I was changing out a rear hub, and when I went to pop the outer bearing out of the hub, the bearing was completely broken in half...right across the race on both sides....weird...

Oh well...Good luck

[SirSpeedy]

I have not had any trouble with either of my power supplies.

Hmmmmm....

[Nairb]

Well now it works perfectly again. No more plug-in tricks needed...

hmmmm, indeed...

[Nairb]

So, Adam's setup worked pretty well with the same tires, but when I put on my new Pink Directionals, I had WAY too much steering. That was with my Red T-2000s, though. I tried it with my M3 Holeshots and it evened out better, but it was still too loose in the back. So I decided to move the rear outer camber links back to the outside hole, and that pretty much dialed me in. I ended up winning the stock truck B-main, and it was my first time ever in stock. Cool, eh?

[Nairb]

Dude, I blew another bearing tonight! It was the other one in the right rear hub, and it cost me over $5 to replace it. I'm gonna be even more ticked if it happens again...

[XXXER]

SWEEEET! That is soo cool brian! how many were in your main?

[SirSpeedy]

You are having some luck with those bearings!!

I don't know what to tell you. One guy at our track blew out a couple in a short time also. Keep in mind, these bearings are much better than shielded bearings in some kits.

Bearings are a high stress item...keep 'em clean and lubed....

Team Shumacher replaced bearing like they were going out of style at the WinterChamps.....no seals at all......ouch...

See ya...

[Nairb]

Steve, there were 8 or 9 in my main. It felt pretty good to do so well my first time in stock. Now it's on to the A-main...but I don't think I'll win it for a while.

[This message has been edited by Nairb (edited 03-09-2001).]

[BadRacer]

The Losi XXX-T is a KICK butt little truck! LOL http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif I am very happy with my truck and it has been the best R/C kit i have ever had!

Right now im running Blue springs up front and Greens out back with Trinity 30wt. shock oil on all fours with the orig. tires that came in the kit........Yes the tires that came in the kit. It works for me on a hard dusty track with a few BIG jumps!

Hop-ups so far.
Yellow rear bumper, body post, front bumper thing.
RPM Yellow Gear cover.
Everything graphite besides the chassi
BB's in the steering (helps ALOT)
Threaded shock bodys-A very nice tuning option!
Ti turnbuckles and camber links
Tinity Alum. Batt brace Blue
MIP CVD's
Basicly everything is either Blue or Yellow..LOL

Its almost a XXX-T Kinwald edi. if i had the graphite chassi.

My XXX-T is going to be with me for a very long time. I also feel that the CVD's are not a must have and are not much of a tunning option.

Keep it Real
BadRacer

[Nairb]

Hmm, what hop-ups do I have so far...?

- Lunsford titanium turnbuckles
- TiScruz (Titanium screws all around), they are so sexy
- Graphite front end
- Trinity shock bushings (I wish they weren't blue)
- BB steering. Yes it is awesome!
- Losi titanium ball studs
- new black antenna tube (it doesn't come out as easily)
- Black Losi machined motor plate (tres sexy)
- Black RPM gear cover
- Aluminum top shaft & gear

I'm going for the black w/shiny (silver) metal look, and I totally dig it.

Shiny CVDs are next. The stock Losi ones are good, but CVDs are just so much smoother. The Losi ones will work at angles, but it doesn't like to. CVDs, however, are happy to spin at the maximum angle without any extra friction or fuss. I know I don't really need them, but I want them and I know they're smoother (whether or not that is beneficial is arguable). Hey, the Kinwald XXX comes with CVDs, so they can't be bad.

Right now, I'm running Adam Drake's standard setup, except for the outer rear camber link location. I've got orange springs in front and red in the rear. Right now, the tires of choice are pink directionals and M3 Holeshots. Hey, didn't I already say this somewhere? Anyway, I'm running a GM3 with 17/84 gearing and it works very well.

[Nairb]

Oh yeah, threaded shock bodies and MIP titanium nitride shock shafts are coming soon, too.

I'm also using a Novak Dually ESC & Polaris reciever, with an older Airtronics high-torque servo. What electronics do you guys use?

I can't wait for brushless motors...

[Nairb]

Sorry, one more thing. This is a huge frustration-saving tip: use AE black nylon 1/4" nuts on the upper shock mounts. The stock Losi ones are lame. They are so flat that you have to fight hard with the shocks to get leverage on them. The AE ones stick out far enough that you always have easy access to the nut, and you won't scratch your shock bodies.

Here's another tip. Replace the button head screws on top of the tranny (they go through the rear bumper) with button-head screws before you strip the stock ones and can't get them out.

Any other tips, guys?

[BadRacer]

Im running a GM3 also with 19/84 due to that dang RPM gear cover! To get the power to the motor i have a LRP 7.1 ESC, 2400 Trinity matched packs, and a Hitec servo with 100oz of tourqe. Its all controlled by my new Futaba radio (FM)

I just picked up some of those Alum. blue pieces for the XXX-T from Trinity today....the sevro brace, pivot blocks and the motor plate.

All this Blue and Yellow looks trick......next thing is going to be the GMC body by PL.

As you can see i like to brag http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif But when i first got it i put nothing but the hi-po parts before i made it look good.

You can take the truck out of the race, but you can't take the race out of the truck!
BadRacer

[XXXER]

One thing i have to say, "The Drake's" Set-up is killer! Brian let me drive his car around for a few laps, and i am sure if i practiced with it more, i could do circles around my buggy.

[Nairb]

Well, acually, Steve...I changed it back before you drove it. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/biggrin.gif I kept the new springs, but I put all the shock & camber locations back to stock. It's just much smmother this way and I can drive it better.

[XXXER]

oh, hehe, oh well, you truck was dialed, but now it is back to tuning, since we got a new set up today.

[Nairb]

OK, Speedy, time to troubleshoot...

I'm getting a semi-nasty noise from the gearbox, and I think it must be the slipper clutch. When I hold the truck off the ground and punch the throttle, it works just fine, and quietly, I might add. BUT, when I'm driving it, it makes a bad noise when I gun it. My gear mesh is good, I've made sure of that. It must be the slipper, but it doesn't make the high-pitched whine a loose slipper usually does. So I decided I'd readjust it to the stock setting again (4 full turns back from lock-down), but it still did it. I tightened it to just 3 turns, but it was still noisy. Can you offer any advice please? What the heck could it be?

[Aussie_Man]

You sure thats not your diff slpping? I had a little trouble with that today.

[Nairb]

I was just thinking of that this morning before I got out of bed. That makes perfect sense, so that must be it. I'll have to check on it today. Does anybody have good advice on how to set the tightness just right? Like, tighten it all the way and back it off __ turns? (Fill in the blank, please) http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif Thanks.

[jboyce13]

that was exactly what my xxt did, i took it off and cleaned it really well (just b/c i was messing with it anyway) when i tightened it back together, i put it so it turned smoothly, but when i got it back in the truck it was too loose, i then tightened it maybe a 1/4 turn and it is fine now. i don't exactly how far to untighten from tight, but maybe this will help!!

[Nairb]

Well, it was the diff slipping. It was just a little too loose, so I stuck my allen wrench in the left outdrive to hold the thrust screw and turned the right wheel about 1/8-1/4 turn. Now it works just great, with no whining from the diff. I love how easy it is to tighten/looen the diff. I guess that flat-head thrust screw is worth the pain of assembly for the ease of final adjustment...

Look out IR/CR, I'm comin'...

[XXXER]

I did think your diff was a little too smooth on saturday.

[SirSpeedy]

Alright, here is the deal.

Tighten the slipper all the way down. Hold the right rear tire and spur gear with your right hand, and try to turn the left rear tire. It should be somewhat difficult.

There is no 'setting'. You should just check it occasionally and learn to adjust it by 'feel'. Remember to always lock the slipper before the test. Be sure to never let the diff 'bark', which I am sure is what Narib's truck was doing. A looser diff setting will make the car have more steering, and allow it to turn tighter. A tighter diff will 'lock-in' on exit more, and allow the car to accelerate better, but steering will be lost, and the car will have an increased turning raduis.

On my electric cars, I like a very free diff, as it makes them very precise and responsive. When you run them loose, make sure the slipper always slips first. To be sure, repeat the test after you return the slipper to it's normal setting, 3-4 turns out....you should be able to see the slipper slipping while you turn the left rear tire. If it is not slipping, that means the diff is. You should either tighten the diff or loosen the clutch.

Now, after the you loosen the clutch, it may slip excessively. You will need to tighten the diff a little as well as the clutch.

The belleville washer system in Losi diffs has a very high spring rate which makes the diff hold it's setting very well, but it's range of adjustment is more narrow....often a hair of a turn will make a world of difference....


See ya...

[Aussie_Man]

As the Losi Bible says "when all else fails, read the instructions" LMAO, catch ya's

[Nairb]

After some race days with the pink directionals, I've decided that they give me too much steering. I'm going to try some silver directionals instead. I also got some tips to shorten the wheelbase and move the ball stud to the inside hole in the rear shock tower, and these mods are great. It helps stabilize the truck a lot.

Guess what!? I blew anothr damned bearing tonight! It was in the LEFT rear hub this time. I'm sure sick of this. What am I doing wrong? Am I tightening the wheel nuts too much?

[Aussie_Man]

You know what I like about this thread? There is no Version bla bla bla.
Nairb, I dont think tightening the wheel would be it, have yuo ever cleaned your bearings? If so, what did you put in them? You might want to take apart the others (if there still there, lol) and see what kind of condition there in. Blowing bearings shouldn't happen! I've blow 1 before at the state titles (while I was winning too, GRRRRR!!) with my XXKE and the front wheel fell straight off. Just make sure your bearings are well greased/oiled before you run them.

[Nairb]

No, I've never cleaned them yet. I've only been running this truck since mid February. I've never had any problems with bearings before this. Frankly, I can't believe this is happening.

I'm glad you like the forum this way, because I do too. I decided to start it without all the extra mumbo-jumbo that everybody else throws in...hey this is about a truck, let's keep it that way. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[XXXER]

Hey, you may want to check out your axles, they could be bent, take the drive yoke off, and roll it on a very smooth, flat piece of something, that is what i say, but i do not see how you do this..... your driveline is very smooth IMO

[SirSpeedy]

Narib-

Do you have the spacers in between the bearings inside of the hubs that isolate the inner races of the bearings?

[Nairb]

Yes, I've got all the spacers in that I was told to put in. They're in both rear hubs and front wheels, and I use the stepped washers behind the roll pin, just as I was told. I've got some shiny CVDs coming, and I hope they leave room for those stepped washers, because they are a very nice feature.

Anyway, I'm going to be VERY careful about my wheel nuts. I'm going to make sure they're not too tight.

[SirSpeedy]

What exactly are you calling a blown bearing? Are the seals just coming off? Are all of the balls coming out of the race?

[jboyce13]

this is a question about my xxt g+, i hope you do not mind me posting it here, but tere is no other xxt forum, and i figured you guys would be able to help me out.

the rear of my truck when it hits even a small bump does not absorb much of the shock and bounces up. the front soaks it right up. i have red springs and 40 weight oil in the rear, and pinks, and unknown oil up front (i bought it used). i figure i need to soften up the rear, what springs and weight oil would you think.right now i am bashing around, but i am planning on racing this summer when i move closer to the track. (i am 3 hours away now, i am moving 3 minutes away, literally. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif )
thanks for any help

[Nairb]

J, that 40 wt oil is too thick. 30 wt oil should work fine with those pink springs out back. If you're in the mood, go ahead and put 30 wt in the front with your red springs, too. That is basically the stock setup for a XXXT and it works VERY well.

Sir, these bearings are seriously blowing out. I just lost the seal out of one of the diff bearings, so I flipped it around and I'm still using it. The other three bearings are so far gone, it's not even funny. When they blow, I get the remains of the bearings splattered all over the inside of my wheels. The seals are gone, the balls are gone, and the outer race is usually broken up. The inner race usually stays intact, but it always has a deep groove in it. I'm not sure if the groove is supposed to be there for the balls or what... So these babies are blowing out in the truest sense of the word.

[SirSpeedy]

J-

Try 30wt, with 56(red) pistons, and pink springs. Mount the shocks in the second hole out on the shock towers, and the middle hole in the arms. Do this front and rear. Put the battery in the middle, and set ride height by adjusting the shock collars up/down on the shocks so that the suspension arms are level front and rear.

That will be a good nuetral setup for you to get started with. Good Luck!!

See ya...

[jboyce13]

i switched some stuff, i know still have the 40 wt in the rear, but i moved the pinks back there, and i still have whatever the kid had in the fronts, i think about 40'ish, it is hard to tell, and i moved the reds to the front, i have not tried it yet b/c it is raining. the battery is centered and i have the shocks at the same places you had said!! thanks, i will let you know if it helps. my friend has some shock oil for his dirtbike that is 10 wt. i might try that before i go buy some, i am on a tight budget!! http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif , do you happen to know if dirtbike fork oil will hurt these shocks?? i do not think so, but i thought i would ask.

thanks again

[Nairb]

The 40 wt oil is your biggest problem. It's only a couple bucks for a few ounces of 30 wt oil, and they'll last forever, especially if you always avoid rebuilding the shocks like this. Buy some 30 wt oil for your own good...

[Nairb]

OK, I'm sick of Green Machine 3s. I totally overheated mine in my truck last night with conservative 17/84 gearing. It's time to get a new & DIFFERENT motor to use. What do you all reccomend?


Let me rephrase that. What is the best stock motor for racing a XXXT on a medium-smallish track? Please post what you like and what works well for ya. THANKS!

[SirSpeedy]

Either of the TOP based motors would be my choice....but I am a little biased...

They use the same can/magnets as the TOP mods, so they have plenty of torque, with a lower RPM.

See ya..

[Nairb]

What do you mean, "TOP?" I know Trinity motors are Epic based and Reedy motors are Yokomo based, but what are TOP based? What are some specific examples?

[Nairb]

I see now that TOP motors are Orion/Peak, but are they the original manufacturers? So we basically have three motor types out there (Epic, Yokomo, & TOP)? What do you use, Sir?

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

Hey all......... I'm running on a very ssmmootthhh track thats just between tight and open. I was wondering what gearing I should run with a Team Orion Crome Stock Motor? It's a lot slower than my 20/87 geared P2K pro.

Thanks!!!

[jboyce13]

i am running a p2k pro and have been very happy with ii. running a 20 tooth pinion and i think and 87 tooth spur.

BTW i think i need to get some 30 wt.!!!

thank http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[XXXER]

Brian, if you do go with the P2K, or a teardown motor, you will not be dissappointed, i have run mine until the magents have gone, i like my spitfire, but it is not what i am looking for.....

[SirSpeedy]

Well,

I run the Yok based Fantom Modifieds.....

I do not run a whole lot of stock, but I was very impressed with the TOP based Peak Spitfire that was the handout used at the WinterChamps. GOBS of torque......

As far as gearing, I race on big outdoor tracks(7-8 laps in 5min). I geared my Triple T 21/86 at the WinterChamps with the Spitfire and good 2400's. I would probably run 20/88 for club racing, and/or if I did not have access to good packs.

When Skyler was at our track, he was geared 23/82 in his buggy......I loaned him a 27T pinion and he was on pace.....big tracks in FL....

I would think 17/88 on your track with a TOP.....and then gear it up until you notice the laptimes starting to decline, or until it gets hot.

See ya...

[Nairb]

Man, I just finished installing my new Shiny CVDs and I LOVE how freaking smooth they are. I cannot believe that people choose the stock universals over these; they are SO different. After months of racing my XXXT, the stock universals still aren't smooth, but these CVDs are immediately. I'll have to see how they are on the track, but I'm sure I'll love them...

[XXXER]

My Spitfire stays incredibly cool throughout my whole race, even after a 5 minute main, i can touch the motor, and it is barely warm, trust me, i have tried to go up one pinion higher, but it still was not the "right" feel.

[Nairb]

Well, the new motor & CVDs performed flawlessly. BTW, SirSpeedy, I noticed no change in bite (forward or side) whatsoever. If anything, it was better than with the stock universals! With my new P2K and my 18/84 tooth gearing, I had all kinds of punch and the motor stayed cooler, big time.I just might try gearing it a little higher when I get my stuff from Horizon...

Well, a friend of mine burned up his GM3 tonight, in his XXT, and another friend is moving on from his GM3 back to a P2K. There is no doubt in my mind that **** for trucks and will eventually be toasted no matter how well you treat them... STAY AWAY FROM GREEN MACHINE 3 STOCK MOTORS!!

[Nairb]

Come on, doesn't anybody else have anything to say?

[SirSpeedy]

Well,

I did not post, as you ordered a new motor before I had a chance to post.

Like I said before, I would recommend any of the TOP based motors for offroad.

Good luck with the CVD's.

As for the Green Machine 3, I just got home from the Speedway Spectacular, the annual onroad/oval race held on the entrance to pit road at the Daytona Int'l Speedway. I TQ'ed and won Stock Sedan with a GM3. I think it is a great motor for a big, long, open track.

See ya...

[Nairb]

I got a new 86 tooth spur and 19 and 20 tooth pinions (now I have 17-20). I got them so I could fine tune my ratio a little better.

BTW, I am NEVER going to use Pro-Line stock foams again, they go bad so fast! I guess I'll go with Trinity Bomb Firm or Losi Firms...

[XXXER]

NICE JOB speedy! I just do not think that our track was made for that motor, simple as that, and i am staying away from that motor, plain and simple.

Nairb, what stuff from Horizon?

My spitfire was FAST on saturday, i liked it!

[Nairb]

That's good advice and sounds about right. Thanks.

What is the order of stiffness for Losi Springs? Can somebody please tell me?

[Nairb]

Ok, I found the info I was looking for. Losi Springs, in order of softest to hardest:

- Gray
- White
- Yellow
- Pink
- Red
- Orange
- Silver
- Green
- Blue

Most of the time people have one step stiffer springs on the front than the rear. What do you suggest about this, Sir? Do you have some guidelines?

[SirSpeedy]

My standard setup is real close to The Drake's..... I would never limit myself to keeping something on my truck a certain way, because that is the way everyone seems to do...

Right now I have a setup on my gas truck that uses 10 wt heavier oil in the rear, and a stiffer spring...seems odd, but it works really well...

See ya...

[Nairb]

Pro-Line stock foams still suk hard! I'm so annoyed with my relatively new holeshots. I had to vent again...

Well, the new April Fools track is in, and it's officially a rhythm track. Can you say, "elevation changes?" Anyway, I started out with my 19/86 ratio and my P2K, but it was getting very hot (because of all the acceleration needed) so I went down to a 17/86. It still got hot. That tells ya how hairy this track is. Anybody coming to April Fools, be warned. Are you comin' Speedy?

I had a heck of a time trying to keep traction around a few corners. I'm gonna try going back to the stock springs and moving the front shocks in to the middle hole on the bottom for more low speed steering. I shortened my wheelbase a couple weeks ago and this seemed to help the situation. What else would you suggest to keep my rear tires glued to the track better?

[SirSpeedy]

No, I cannot make it. Very busy with school.

Well,

Does the truck hook up, and then break free? Or does it never hook up at all?

If it hooks up, and then breaks loose mid turn, the truck could be too soft, as it is absorbing too much weight transfer in the suspension. If it is loose on turn-in, or right away, the truck may be too stiff, as it is over loading the tires, and needs to absorb more weight transfer with the supension.

You should try to use oil and springs for this type of adjustmet, with a little lighter/heavier oil all around being the first adjustment...

See ya...

[Nairb]

So, I was able to have more traction and less spinning out when I changed back to the pink rear and red front springs, but I was not even close to dialed. I went out and bought some new yellow springs so I could soften up my suspension even more. Right now I've got yellow rears and pink fronts; I'll have to see how it works tomorrow. Any advice for a very hard-packed clay track with lots of jumps? I'll gladly accept any.

I also got some composite outdrives for my truck, but my LHS didn't have the Trinity titanium outdrive savers. Can you believe it? They really **** lately, selection-wise. They had the blue aluminum ones, but I say screw the trendy blue garbage. I'll have to wait for my Tower Hobbies order to come before I install the new outdrives; my titanium "savers" are coming.

Come back, XXXT fans! What is your favorite upgrade you're recently added? Mine would have to be my shiny CVDs, but my composite outdrives will pass them up soon.

[SirSpeedy]

I will just leave you with your purchase. No comment.

Well, just one. I do not know one driver in the Stock Truck or Buggy A-main at the WC's that ran plastic outdrives.

[Nairb]

What's up, Speedy? Don't be afraid to tell me I'm wrong or if you think I've made a mistake, I'd really like to know your opinion.

[Nairb]

My club track is pretty small & tight; I think composite outdrives will help a bit. I know a bunch of guys that use these in their trucks for stock and/or modified and they recommend them to me. I can always go back to the stock steel ones if I so desire later...

If you have a valid argument either way on any subject, please don't hold it back; I'd like to read it.

[SirSpeedy]

It is just that they are not really worth the weight savings. The steel on steel contact of steel outdrives give way more forward bite. The gyro effect of the outdrives also give the car a feeling of stability, and they actually help maintain cornerspeed.

I tried them at the WinterChamps, since I was running stock. My cars felt very strange. I switched back and they seemed very stable. They make the car feel very loose, The top three in stock truck all ran steel, and so did 2nd-5th in 2whl(a B3 won...Boooo Dan).

BK would often run them at the old M&M track, to try and keep the front wheels on the ground, but they also ran slicks there....Dalton is the same way for a big race......but try it, and see what you like...

See ya...

[Nairb]

Who else here uses or has used composite outdrives? So far I'm not too impressed with them. Yes, they're lighter. They also make diff assembly much easier (and more associated like ;)). But I don't see any improvement yet. I haven't tried them on my track yet (I will Wednesday), so maybe I'll see a difference there. A bunch of the stock guys use 'em, so maybe they will help. Anyway, I don't agree with the more forward bite because of the steel on steel friction agrument at all, but I do agree that the extra rolling mass/inertia is probably worth it. I wonder how long these are going to last anyways. It seems like they may be causing a clicking noise in the drivetrain...I'm going to investigate today.

Anyway, let's hear some opinions about this.

[SirSpeedy]

You don't think that two ferrous metals have greater friction rubbing against each other than one ferrous metal and plastic?

I have proved it to a few guys at our track. I charged up a pack and through my 2whl down on some asphalt. My 2whl will pull the front wheel easily on asphalt. I then pulled the steel diff out, put the composite one in, and repeated the test. No wheelie. Simple.

[Nairb]

Wow, Sir, that's VERY interesting! This is how I was thinking about it. If the outdrive is going to spin, it'll spin and the dogbone will HAVE to spin at the same rate. Friction shouldn't play a role when the two pieces are keyed together. That's what I was thinking. Now I don't know...both ideas definitely make sense to me. Of course there will be more friction with steel on steel, but I don't see how it'll make a difference in a dogbone/outdrive situation. Do you think you could enlighten me?

[Railman]

The only way I can make sense of it is that the composite outdrive flexes a little when under drive load, allowing the balls to lose their grip on the diff rings. I used a set of lightend outdrives years ago, MIP's I think, & I never could get the diff to be smooth & grab, with them in it. I finally concluded that they gave just a little releasing some of the pressurre on the diff balls. Why else would the drive slip? :confused: Thats my story & I'm sticking to it!
:rolleyes: ;)
Nairb, next time you run across Jason Ladow, ask him a question. You won't regret it. He's top shelf. :cool:

[SirSpeedy]

Ladow or Robbers will tell you the same thing.

You guys are missing the boat. It is not about drive force. The diff ball story there made me realize that.

I am talking about suspension movement under acceleration. The steel pin on steel outdrive will not allow the suspension to squat under acceleratoin. The effect is a stiffening of the rear suspension. Much like more dampening, smaller pistons, or heavier springs.

It is like anti-squat, but it is dynamic, it is only felt on power. Off power the car will feel the same.

The steel to steel friction makes the rear end hook up do to wieght transfer being passed on to the tires, and not being absorbed by the suspension.

You follow now? Can you see how CVD's enter into the situation now?

[ 04-16-2001: Message edited by: SirSpeedy ]

[Railman]

I get it! Thanks. :cool: :)

[Nairb]

Ok, I see your point now, Sir. I misread that post the first time, but now it does make sense. If that is true, then the shiny coating on my CVDs could take away from the forward bite slightly, too. Oh well, though. I'm not goin back to Losi universals any time soon. I probably WILL go back to steel outdrives soon, though. It's too bad they get sloppy so fast, though.

OK, what else can we discuss? You don't use the aluminum top shaft, do ya? Why not?

[SirSpeedy]

I would think that the shiny coating would be pretty negligable.

The CVD's also give more forward bite do to the joint being steel on steel, whereas the Losi joint it half plastic. I like steel outdrives and Losi bones. Seems to be the best compromise. Most people think it is some kind of BS story for why I don't have CVD's. Then I should them the four sets of CVD's in my pit bag!...lol...

As for the top shaft, yep I run it. That is just a rotating mass thing.

[Nairb]

Whoa, I SWEAR there were two more posts right here...did you delete them, Steve?

[stormperson]

i know this is sorta asking alot, but could someone suggest a set up for a very tight offroad track, thats bumpy, and is hard packed clay, doesnt blue groove, almost muddy in the start of the race day, and gets the tires and everything muddy, then at the end of the race day its slightly dusty, and there is only a slight layer of dust over the body and car. and it also has some jumps, and by tight i mean that in the open class almost everyone runs stock motors.

i currently have it set up, where i have alot of understeer, which i sorta like, however this is redictulas.

anyway here is my current set up

front:
toe and camber i have no clue.
2 on the bulkhead, and A on the carrier
shocks:
3 on the tower and middle on the arm
20wt stock pistons and green springs, i think they are losi buggysprings, or the AE ones. softer then stock
-also i am running pretty close to arms level, maybe a little higher

in the back:

toe is 0 and camber no clue,
running a short wheelbase, and stock driveshafts and that stuff,
A on the carrier and 3 on the shocktower
as for the shocks
middle on the arm and 3 on the tower.
and the shocks themselves
20wt stock pistons pink springs, and running around same high as in the front,

sorry i am not exact and dont have all the stuff. but any advice would be great!

as for tires, i am running losi dirtspecs in the front for more front traction, and ifmar pins in the back, both with stock foams, since the track is so bumpy.

basically what i am looking for is a little more steering, and more rear traction, since i tend to break loose in the back. so any suggestions would be great,
and just so you know i am running the $100 airtronics, dont know the number 200oz of torque servo, and bb steering.

thanks

[Nairb]

This is what Matt Francis used at my track for April Fools. It sounds like the same conditions.

Truck: FRONT: 57 piston, 20 wt, red springs, B spacer internal limiter, location #2-middle on arm, camber link 2-B with 1 washer, spindle down with 2 washers on spindle for bump steer, deg neg camber, straight toe, ride-height arms level. REAR: 56 piston, 20 wt, no limiters, unscrewed 2 turns for more travel, yellow springs, location #2-outside on arm, camber link 2-A, hubs centered, 2 deg anti-squat, Shiny CVDs, deg neg camber, ride-height bones level, battery back, 11x2 geared 21/100 BK pitch

[stormperson]

thanks, i will defently try that set up out next time i go to the track. stupid questions, might u have any pics of the track?

[Nairb]

Yep, here it is.

http://www.dialedrc.com/images/aprilfools/day1/04070003.JPG

[Nairb]

That is the exact track that the setup was used for. It hasn't changed yet.

[Aussie_Man]

Geez thats a sweeeeeeeet track you guys got there. **** I wish I lived in America. :)

[stormperson]

my track is a little bit tighter, a little more then a little bit, however since i like so much understeer, this should work out great. thanks!

[XXXER]

HEY! I think i have been there before! ;)
That is mine and Nairb's home track, the dirt is by far the best around.

[Nairb]

There are a couple more pictures of the track at www.dialedrc.com (http://www.dialedrc.com) That is our friend Corey(RoachRacing)'s new site. Click on the "Racing" header to see the rest of the pictures Corey took. I'm sure he won't mind the extra traffic.

I LOVE the track, but it's too bad the surrounding building doesn't match the superb quality of the track. We've got plenty of great pit space with more than enough power outlets, but the whole place is quite run down. Oh, well, I can't wait to go back today! Let's see if I can pull out 17 laps in 5 minutes today...

[Nairb]

Hey, what do ya know? I got 17 laps in 5:18 last night! I was kickin serious booty...

[SirSpeedy]

I am still tring to run 9 on our new layout.... 8 5:02 in Mod 2wd....BIG outdoor tracks......

[Roach Racing]

I dont mind the traffic at all. I have a ton of more pictures from April Fools. I just dont have any time right now to go thru them all. I think I took about 150 - 200 pictures. I am still waiting on the full results from teresa.

Corey

[doublet]

Im now back to racing truck rather than buggy. Anyone have some setup advice for my xxxt on this track? look at it at www.redstickraceway.com (http://www.redstickraceway.com) I am currently using the box stock setup except each shock position on the tower is moved out 1 hole and I am using red Ifmar pins which seem to hook up well. I need to get just a tad more rear traction under when entering a tight corner. Exiting corners is fine though, thanks in advance

[very low budget racer]

Alright, none of you guys make fun of me, but I have no clue how to dial in trucks for offroad. What does camber, castor, toe-in, toe out, ect. do for the truck? My track is all sand and clay not soft but not hard. I will have an XXXT soon if I win it on Ebay and would like to be able to dial my truck in to race. Before I would think it was my driving not the truck and why I could never make turns with any throttle with my old XXT. Coud you guys please explain how to tune a truck?

[DJ BlendeR]

Well, camber is how much the top of the wheel points in or out if you look at it straight on. I am pretty sure with a large negative camber (towards the inside) the truck's back end will slide, but you will also get uneven wear on the tires. The toe in and out helps traction, if your rear wheels point in slightly like 1 or 2 degrees it helps traction but slows your car down in top end slightly. The opposite is true when you go down to like 0 degrees. Thats pretty much all I know about tuning the truck, I am learning from my friend right now.

[DJ BlendeR]

ALUMINUM SCREW KIT-

Ok, is this thing worth the cash? I have had a real problem with the stock hex screws stripping. Not the threads but the hex itself. Are the aluminum ones stronger, hence no stripping of the hexes? Also, who has the best price for them?

[Railman]

If your having trouble with the steel screws DON'T get the aluminum ones! :rolleyes:
In my opinion your much better off spending your money on other things... like better batts, tires & such. If used in the wrong places, aluminum screws just cause heartache for most.

[SirSpeedy]

Actually, you can purchase a Stainless Steel screw kit from GetScrewed for about $20 for most kits.

Email me at sirspeedy01@yahoo.com for more info.

[ 05-10-2001: Message edited by: SirSpeedy ]

[Nairb]

If you're a crazy bugger who loves Lunsford Titaniumn (like me), you can get a full set of titanium screws for your truck for a measley $80. You don't need them, but they sure are cool as he!!. FYI, they're stronger and lighter than steel & aluminum screws, not to mention their high-quality and sweet looks.

Everybody said not to get them, but I did anyway and I have ZERO regrets!

[XXXER]

Nairb's truck looks super []D[][]\/[][]D with those screws, heck, if i have the extra money someday, i definately will pick me up a set o those!

[DJ BlendeR]

Alright thats cool,I wont go for titanium since Im a po'folk and cant afford 'em. So Maybe I will just get some replacements for the time being and get some more needed things.

[SirSpeedy]

XXX,

Stainless Steel will look almost exactly the same for $20.

GetScrewed.

[SteveP]

Speedy - do they have a website?

[Jason_R]

Is there a XXX-T Kinwald edition truck? Or is their one in the works? I am new to team losi.

Thanks

[Nairb]

There will be a hopped-up XXXT out around the end of this year, but it might be a Matt Francis edition instead of Kinwald. But then again, it might not be.

[SirSpeedy]

Very soon.

I can give you any info at sirspeedy01@yahoo.com

[DJ BlendeR]

God I love this truck! Even with my wall banging the only thing I have broken are things on my servo! With the exception of one broken turnbuckle, but that was a stupid jumping incident that was completely my fault. I can seriously haul down the track too, even with my spec tires which dont grip my track, I keep up with the other guys who sport new tires and better radio gear. Any suggestions for handling imrpovement? Here is my setup:

(all screw postions relative to inside of truck)
rear:
yellow springs
30wt
2nd screw hole out (top)
1st screw out (bottom)

Front:
White springs
30wt
2nd screw hole out (top)
1st hole out (bottom)

I have my steering nut loosened very far up, but not to the top, when i put it at the top my tires wouldn't recenter, anyone else have this problem?
Thanks, as far as tires I have spec tires, which does affect handling but I believe a better setup would help.

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

Here's some of my personal setups, http://www.geocities.com/orbitalrc/setups.htm

And here's one I have recently tried and woks great!:

Front: Springs ornge. Oil 35 wt. Ball stud locations all in middle. Shock location outside, 3 away from end.

Rear: Springs red. Oil 30 wt. Ball stud locations all in middle. Shock location inside, 2 away from end.

__________________________________________________ __________________

And, what kinda of track are you running on? In/out door? High-bite or slippery?

[doublet]

My setup at the place mentioned before is working great now. Box setup except for move the top shock pos. out on both towers and Silver losi direc.'s and Pink losi t-2000's. 30wt up front 25wt in back

[rcracer_xxxt_futaba]

lets see some pics of are XXXT's!!! Here r some of mine :) I will have some new ones with the Novak C2 installed.


http://orbitalrc.8m.com/pic19.jpg

]http://orbitalrc.8m.com/pic21.jpg

http://orbitalrc.8m.com/pic20.jpg

[ 05-19-2001: Message edited by: rcracer_xxxt_futaba ]

[DJ BlendeR]

My track is in an indoor track and I think its got good bite, I havent gone to any track other than it so I wouldnt be able to judge.

Heres a lil tid bit of info I am sending to RCCA for the letters section of the mag:

I raced my XXX-T Spec with a 15T Q Speedgems 2 motor, 19T pinion and 84t Spur against a goped and beat him! Hahaha! It was sweet b/c he was reall full of himself and thought he could beat it running. My truck is all stock too, no ball bearings or anything. But that is my next upgrade. And it was a straight line race, for about 400-500 feet.

[Nairb]

Does anybody use the Pro-Line GMC body on their XXXT? I just got mine and, after mounting it, I'm VERY annoyed that they don't mark where we need to make holes with dimples. Losi does it... What the heck? I ended up mounting the front a little to one side and because of that I had to trim the bumper more than usual to keep the arms & turnbuckles from rubbing on it. I think I like the body, but mounting is ALWAYS a pain that I don't like dealing with...

[doublet]

thats why i dont bother for body appearances as in model (gmc, chevy.... etc) I just stick with the losi body because of the dimples already placed on the body. Besides how does the GMC do differently than a stock body? no difference?

[DJ BlendeR]

A guy at my track has 2 of the GMC bodies and 2 of the stock bodies. I dont think they do any different as far as performance, because he was acting like he didnt car what body he used for qualifying or for the mains. But I want a ford body, or a toyota! I am thinking of just ordering the F-150 decals from HPI and slapping them on my Losi body.

[DJ BlendeR]

I ran my first race saturday after rebuilding my shattered differential and my truck did awesome all night, my driving is another story... Anyways, on my last qualifying run my slipper was way too loose and after I adjusted it and ran my truck in the main I took out for practice... My truck was making a very loud clicking and rubbing noise. I recently took apart my transmission and took out everything but my slipper. I ran my motor with just my slipper and spur and it was still making the clicking noise. I changed my stock top shaft with an aluminum one and it makes the noise still, but it is slightly quieter, do you think its my spur gear or maybe its one of my plates or spring or what? I tried both my 17T pinion and my 19T but it still is making the noise. Any help would be much appreciated.

And finally a word of praise for this truck, I can't believe the performance and durability of it. I did some spectacular flips and tumbles and it stayed together and kept up with the fastest of the bunch. Thanks again for the advice.

[Nairb]

Tighten your diff, DJ.

[Railman]

Do what Nairb said, It's called chirping...
your diff's slipping.

[DJ BlendeR]

I dont know... My diff seems pretty tight, and the last time I tightened it, I shattered a washer into 3 pieces, and stripped the screw and nut holding it together.

How am I supposed to know if it is tight, like while I am tightening it, should it click and lock repeatedly or is that too tight? I read in another post that it might be caused by a dirty spur, if thats the case, how do I clean it, motor spray? Thanks again

[Roach Racing]

DJ- he said tighten not CRANK :D you should never have to turn anything on the truck that hard. Is it clicking or chirping? Was you spur hitting the gear cover? Did you have anything floating around inside the gear cover? Normally after you rebuild a diff you can tighten it all the way down and when you drive it will get loose. Just remember dont pull out the torque wrench for work on this car.

Corey

[DJ BlendeR]

Lol yeah, I cranked it before, I dont think it is my diff at all because like I said prior, it makes the sound even when everything exept my top shaft/spur/slipper is connected, meaning it is something in that area of the truck, whether it is the spur or possibly the slipper.

Also, when my more knowledged friend tightens the diff the wheels kind of skip forward, that I guess is the slipper now that I think of it cuz he never cranks down the screw to tighten the slipper. Dang and now I lost my allen wrench so I cant fiddle with it more.... errrr.... oh well, maybe tomorrow.

[athowells]

Hello, I am thinking about getting the XXX-T :p and if I do I am making a web site on it and I want some pictures of other peoples xxx-t trucks. So could you post your pics on here (as MANY as you like) as well as you NAME. Thank-you. ;)

P.S Have you broken anything on your truck yet? :eek:

[DJ BlendeR]

One tie-rod. Oh and I broke my trucks spirit when I lost horribly... But thats ok... it was my first real race, besides I've beaten a go-ped and another truck, and several 1:1 cars.

[pinky]

DJ, most likly you have your pinion gear set too far in toward the motor. Most motors have enough end play in the armature that when at rest the arm, when looking from the rear, is fully to the right. When power comes on the field will pull the arm to the left. If the pinion is centered exactly in line with the spur at rest then it will sometimes pull far enough to the left for the setscrew to hit the edge of the spur gear. This makes a terrable clicking noise. If this is what is happening then the damage is already done to the spur. You need a new one.

In most cases the pinion should be flush with the end of the motor shaft.

As for the diff.

Get a new thrust rebuild kit. And get a new set of diff balls. Not carbide.
Replace the 3/32 balls in the diff gear with new ones. Flip the diff rings. Save the old diff balls.
Remove all of the thrust assy. Open the bag of new parts. Find the 1/16 thrust balls and toss in the trash. Replace the 1/16 balls with 7 of the old 3/32 diff balls. Assemble the thrust assy as usual. Stack 2 thrust nuts into the plastic holder one on top of the other. Snug up the diff a little at a time. Check the tightness by insertint the tips of a pair of sissors into the outdrive slots and try to turn the diff gear with your fingers. If it slips tighten more. Repeat a little at a time untill you can just bearly slip the diff gear with only your thumb and one finger.

Assemble the tranny. Again, hold the outdrives with sissors while trying to turn the spur gear by hand. Adjust the slipper so that it slips just before the topshaft turns. Then back the slipper nut out about a 1/4 turn.

Your tranny should last most of a season.

[Nairb]

Why not carbide balls?

[pinky]

Carbide balls are very hard and cut into the rings very quickly. They also slip on the ring faces much easier since they are so hard. The standard balls are not that much softer but they seat much easier. They don't cut deep grooves into the rings which is what usually causes the diff to loosen up.
This is also what is causing the thrust washers to shatter. Because the extra hard balls don't offer as much bite on the rings you have to crank the thrust screw really tight. The stock thrust balls are very small and make a really small 'footprint' on the thrust washer. These two things combined cause the thrust balls to cut very deep grooves into the tiny rings. This makes the diff assy loosen up faster. Then you crank the diff even tighter. This causes the washers to crack and shatter.

Don't take my word for it. If you have the time and need to rebuild your diff, try it. You have nothing to lose. It certainly won't make the tranny fail any quicker.

I have been running a XXXT with a stock motor. And a XXX-NT. The electric tranny was last rebuilt 3 months ago. The gas truck was built mid Jan, it's tranny hasn't been opened since it was first built. I race both every weekend in club racing.
The gas truck qualifiers are 5minuets and the mains are 20-40 minuets. I just won sportsman gas "King of the Hill race" with it. 4 10minuet qualifiers and a 1 hour main. The tranny still has not even been retightened.

Point is, it worked for me. What could it hurt?

[Nairb]

Actually, I never shattered a thrust washer until I tried using 7 3/32" balls in there. Your arguments sound logical to me, though.

[pinky]

Just don't over crank the thrust screw and they should be okay.

Next weekend will be the last week of our current 8 week points series. I'm thinking of breaking open my tranny's to see how things look inside. Hate to though.

[Jason_R]

Can i play with you guys now, i just brought a XXXT off of eBay. Paid $250 for it, but this is what is came with: Novak fusion esc, Reedy MVP stock motor, Trinity 2400 stick pack, MIP CVD's, Team Losi threaded shock bodies, Lundsford titainum turnbuckles and hinge pins, Team Losi titainum gold shock shafts, Team Losi lightened black motor plate, RPM black gear cover, Trinity blue shock bushings, Trinity Blue shock collars, Trinity blue screw kit, Pro-Line edge and hole-shot tires. I know some of this stuff is just for show but why not. Here is the picture: http://www.mlode.com/~moondanc/XXXT-1.JPG

[ 06-07-2001: Message edited by: Jason_R ]

[DJ BlendeR]

Well I might go racing saturday, so i will have the owner check it out, make sure its the diff, cuz I cant afford too much right now, I have to buy my bro a grad gift, so if it is the diff, I will see how much all that costs, I'd hate to rebuild my diff only 3 weeks after I rebuilt :( , but gotta do what you gotta do.

[Nairb]

Sheish...try rebuilding your diff 3 times in 3 days! That sucked...

[XXXER]

LOL, i was there when that happened, i hate maintenance, i really need to rebuild my shocks so bad, it is ugly

My Diff is ok, but still needs work, my car has really lost that "Smoothness" it had when new, and other cars on the track have(Namely Nairb's, his truck has got to be the smoothest out there...)

[DJ BlendeR]

I went to the track yesterday and the guy said not to worry about it! Errrrr.... all this worrying and troubleshooting for nothing... He said to wait till something blows out and then I will know whats wrong. So Im sorry for that long question, however I do have another small one I wanted answered. The motor plate for the XXX-T, y'know the aluminum one, what does it look like and what does the heatsink one look like? They are selling a motor plate that has somewhat thick slots in it, and the slots have white in them. So does the lightened aluminum one have these slots or is this the heatsink plate, cuz he says its the lightened, but I have doubts and it is only 10 bucks, so if it is the heatsink I want to buy it and save myself some money.

[athowells]

Does any one know what bearings are required for the XXX-T Dirt Spec? :(

[SirSpeedy]

A-6903

You will need eight of them.

[athowells]

How many do you get in one A-6903?
Where do the 8 bearings go?
:confused:

[ 06-07-2001: Message edited by: athowells ]

[BadRacer]

Hey DJ, the heatsink motor plate has the silver/white slots in it and im pretty sure its made by Team Losi Only.....the other motor plate is made by Trinity. I have the Losi heatsink motor plate......just got to say it does its job well!

I went to pick my truck up off the track from behind after running the T total Losi out of it and boy did i drop that truck fast! My hand was hurting for awhile so watch were you place your hand when you get it. My GM3 was cool to the touch after a 5 min race.

Oh yeah Nairb it seems that i have been having very good luck with my GM3. Its been taking me to the A Mains and i have never came in 3rd or under with this motor. Seems like i got the only good one from the factory! :D :p

Im about to try my new MVP in my truck to see how well it does. If it out performs the GM3, the GM3 is taking a nice long rest in the pit box.

BTW what motors do you all use for stock class? I know some use the P2k but i have that motor and in my book it just doesn't cut it.

Keepin it Real
BadRacer :cool:

[BadRacer]

XXXER, i have a Orion Chrome RS stocker that iv used 2 times....don't know why, maybe ill pull it from its resting place and run a few race's with it to see how it does.

I have 2 XXXT's, one i got for free and one iv poured a ton of money into...don't know what i should do with the kit form one. Maybe ill sale it to a local hobby shop.

The lastest hop-up iv gottin was the Lunsford Ti screw kit....they look trick on my truck but i also don't have to worry about striping a hex head screw. I feel alot safer with these when it comes time to take stuff apart know what i mean?! :D

Later Fellow XXXT'ers
BadRacer :cool:

[XXXER]

athowells, you need 8 of that part # that sirspeedy gave you, 4 go in the fron wheels, and 4 go in the rear hubs, there are brinze bushings back there now, so you need to change those.

BadRacer, Nairb and I both use the TOP stock motors, I run the Peak, he uses the Chrome, his truck by far kicks the crap out of my buggy, i do not know what is up, but he is getting faster runs than i am, oh well, i still got 4th in the A-Main last night, even a lap down from his TQ pace in truck(I run buggy) so i have the be doing something right

[DJ BlendeR]

Alright cool, thanks for the info. I run a MATRIX 7.5R, its a P2K clone but man is it fast, I run faster laps than my friend's P2K despite my truck having bushings and not bearings. But it gets EXTREMELY hot so I have trouble staying in all 5 min of our races.

[DJ BlendeR]

In addition to the motor question, whilst people respond, what was the worst crash you have ever had with your truck, and did you break anything? Sorry if its been asked previously, but still time would have passed and new crashes occur. I didnt break anything, and it wasnt one major cash, but in the time of 2 and a half laps I had flipped and crashed the truck probably 25 times, while I goofed off jumping the jumps at full speed and overshooting this and that. Fun... just lucky I didnt break anything.

[Nairb]

So far, of the stockers I've owned and tried in my XXXT, my order of preference is Chrome Stock 1st, Warlock WFO in 2nd, P2K back in 3nd, and GM3 WAAAY back, dead last. I wonder where an MVP will fit in? I've got one coming my way right now. :)

I had my motors Dynoed and my Chrome put out more power, torque, AND RPMs than my P2k. I LOVED my Chrome up until this past weekend when it started throwing fits. I've taken great care of it, by cutting the comm, replacing the brushes, and keeping it clean, so it should still last me a long time. The problem was this: I threw it in my truck and gunned it to make sure it was ready for action; it was first acting normally, then it slowed down and arced excessively. It arced so much it was NOISY. The only thing I can think of causing that problem would be worn out brush springs. I tried some very stiff ones, but the Chrome HATED that. I was forced to use my never-been-used buggy motor (the Warlock WFO), and it was great. So I've got a few sets of replacement springs coming from Orion for my Chrome. I hope it revitalizes it, because it's been great.

My friend Chad says that his MVP is the best motor he's ever had, so I'll have to see how it fits in with my other stockers.

BadRacer, I think you Definitely lucked out with your GM3. Mine are out of my life forever, and I'm not sad. :) I say you should Definitely try out your Chrome stock. You might be surprised; I love mine. I hope you love your TiScruz as much as I do. DANG, they're sexy. I don't regret that investment one bit! For anybody who doesn't want to spend such a wad on shiny screws, there's always SirSpeedy's stainless steel screws, and they're only $20 a set.

Hehe, as if my XXXT wasn't cool enough before, I just made a huge step up in the electronics department. I replaced my Dually (it's great, but this is better...) with a C2, and I replaced my AM Polaris receiver with an FM XXL. Now there's nothing I really want to replace on/in my truck. This baby is DIALED. Can you say smooth? :D

ROCK ON, my XXXT bretheren!

[lucasracing]

How do you guys rate the XXXT against the RC10T3? I want to buy one of these and dont know which is better.

[Nairb]

I DEFINITELY love my XXXT over my brother's T3. Get a XXXT, you won't be disappointed.

I went racing tonight, and...
Man, that was FUN! It's always a blast to lay the smack down on the stock class... I finished 2nd with 14 laps in the first race, and that was my worst one. The second race was when I opened a can. I finished 1st with 15 laps and lapped the whole field; TQing is kinda fun. ;) In the main it just got better. I lapped the whole field again and finished 1st with 16 laps. I definitely feel I've redeemed myself after a dismal weekend race. Ahhh, success... :)

How have you guys done lately? BTW, Tim, I kept your setup on my track, too...and yes, I'm Dialed. :) Everything's basically the same as my old setup, except the springs.

[XXXER]

Brian! sounds like you had an excellent time last night, How is the new layout? I want to try to get out there before Saturday(but, of course, that never happens :rolleyes: )

Also, Way to go, you passed the 1400 mark, about time! http://www.plauder-smilies.de/party/dance2.gif

[BadRacer]

Up date on the MVP. I broke in the motor and headed to the track last Saturday. The first heat race i used the trusty ol Green. After the heat was done i put in the freshly brokin in MVP to see how well it holds up. I could tell alot of difference in the 2nd heat race......Tons of power everywhere!!!

With the MVP i was on fire all night long. This motor gave me the feel that i could pass anyone at ease. Only thing i do have to complain about is i had a adjust the slipper...some how i caught it just right and did a wheelie trying to jam down the straight away. The MVP has major power and speed on tap and even if you run the motor hard it stays pretty cool.

This is the first Reedy motor iv liked. Its staying in my truck for awhile.

And as for the GM3, i was using it for some quick set-up adjustments and somehow it got a hung brush....oh well its taking a nice rest in the pit box. I also tryed out my Orion Chrome RS during a heat and it performed very well.

At this moment my fav motors are: 1 MVP, 2 Orion ChromeRS, 3 GM3, 4 P2k. These are the only motors i will be using from the stockers i have. The Reedy Rage would be dead last.

BTW, what kind of tires would you all use on a hardpacked fairly dusty track? Most of the time they wet down the track i race at and have the tires that hook up really well to the track, i just can't figure out what to use on a dryed out track. Thanx for the help.

Dirt is for racing and Asfault is for GETTING THERE!
Cris

[Nairb]

Dude, that sounds great, BadRacer! My MVP should be here VERY soon, by way of UPS. If it's as good as it sounds, I'm sure I'll love mine too. I just hope it comes today... I don't want to use my brand new buggy motor again. I want to keep it new for my buggy.

Well, I'm off...

[athowells]

Losi discontinued is now discontinued Tower Hobbies and else where. Read about it in the General Discussion Forum under XXX-NT Discontinued. :eek:

[WhoKnowsWho]

funny, athowells, horizon hobby is the main distributor now and it doesn't say anything about anything being discontinued there...

[Nairb]

Guys, Tower Hobbies discontinued ALL Losi stuff because their competitor (Horizon Hobby) now owns Losi. It's as simple as that. You'll be able to find a place to buy Losi online if you look. Try Horizon or Stormer Racing.

Well, I got my MVP and that baby was BALLISTIC...until it stopped working. I never ran the motor until I 1) opened it up and inspected everything 2) had the comm skimmed just to be sure it was true 3) replaced the brushes with 767s immediately and 4) did all other usual new motor maintenance procedures, like oiling the bushings & seating the bushings. I ran that thing 1.5 times, and it was toast! I used it in my XXXT with my matched 2400s and 88/18 & 17 gearing. After the first practice run, I noticed a LOT of dust on the outside of the motor (the brushes were quickly being eaten). I ran it again and it was cool for a bit, then it started slowing down and finally stopped. I pushed in the brushes with an allen driver and it worked, but not for long. I knew something was wrong, so I quit and disassembled the motor. What I found amazed all of us at the track. The brushes were worn down to almost nothing (less than 1/4") and the comm was severely worn (can you say, "stepped comm?"). I don't get it. I did everything right. I used the stock springs and 767 brushes like they recommended. I didn't check the brush hood alignment, but I shouldn't have to. I'm lucky I had my Chrome Stock motor to race with as a backup (I love that motor, BTW), or I would've been screwed. This thing is going straight back to AE in return for an explaination and a replacement. This should NEVER happen to a brand new, stock motor.

Besides that little motor trouble, my truck is SO DIALED. I LOVE it! I've got the stock setup all around, except for red springs out back and orange ones up front. I use M3 Holeshots out back & silver directionals in front. Can you say "Die-Yuled?" ;) I've finished first in stock truck somewhere around 4-5 times in a row now. Now THIS is fun! :D

I love all my equipment & hop-ups. My XXXT is stocked with the best: Novak C2 ESC, FM XXL receiver, Airtronics 94357 servo, Multiplex Profi 403 AM/FM radio, Pro-Line GMC body with a sweet paintjob, a full set of Lunsford titanium turnbuckles, ballstuds (sold by Losi, made by Lunsford), and TiScruz (my favorite), Shiny CVDs, aluminum rear pivot block (it was free :D), RPM gear cover (screw the stock one ;)), Losi BB steering, heatsink motor plate, graphite (here & there, but not necessary), aluminum top shaft & gear, Hammad Ghuman aluminum shock collars & upper shock mounts, and a GREAT suspension setup. Man, I LOVE my truck. I don't know what else I would want to change... :cool: (sorry, I just felt like listing my additions/changes)

There's no way I'd race another truck right now... How's that for a testimonial? It's the honest truth.

Wow, that was kinda long, huh?

[Nairb]

Doesn't anybody else have anything to say?

[SirSpeedy]

Take a look at some kick *** pics of my track.
http://www.fseara.com/Frames/off-road-photos.htm

Click on - Daytona Race #5

The Orange/Blue/White Triple T is me.

Later...

[RushRacer]

Howdy fellas... Rush Racer Here...After about a week of comparing trucks I decided to go with the triple-xt. Have my truck on order and should get it in a week or so. Now i'm racing my nitro rush, but decided to try a little stock electric racing. Just wanted to say hello. I was wondering if there are any upgrades thet need to added rite away and what upgrades I should plan on starting with first. I will be racing on a loose bumpy track with moderate jumps and a few long staights. Is the stock setup a good place to start for this type of track or does anyone have suggestions. Thinking of a p2k motor and not to sure about the pinion. But this seems like a great place for info. Thanks for the help.

[BadRacer]

I think the first "Hop-Up" you should get would have to be Lunsford Ti Turnbuckels along with some RPM Ball Cups and if you could get some Ti Ball ends ( i think thats the right term) LOL. Next thing to do is if it seems your not hooking up to your track you will need some new tires. Ask the racers at the track what they are using and they will most likely be able to help you out.

About the Set-up part i can't help you there, im the kind of person that i have to be there to tune it. I do have to say that the Stock set-up is a great place to start and you get alot of help from the easy to rear manual.

Hope i helped in some way.

[BadRacer]

No its not normal to burn any motor up......must be something your doing or something the factory did wrong.

[NTRacinGuy87]

is it normal to burn up stock motors on the xxxt? i do constantly..... no matter how i gear it. its also really hard on the modifieds. any suggestions would help.

[losifreak2004]

No, the XXXT is known for keeping motors a little on the warm side. I've heard this every where. Cut out the TL in teh plastic bumper to get more air lowing through there, and make sure you have it geared right.

Also, make sure your motor is COLD before you run it again.

[SirClimbAlot86]

Just got 2.2 Pro-Line Paddle tires for my Triple X-T. These things are HUGE :eek: . Do NOT try to run on pavement! They just spin. But I have climbed a 70 degree hill with them. Pritty good for a 2wd "race" truck. I will have pics SOON. Oh, and its for sale. E-mail me if interested. Ill give ya all the info on it. Thanks. :D

[007yoshi]

Nairb- Thats funny how everyone has great results here using standard setup w/ orange front springs and red rear, but me and my dad bought us a new xxxt recently and mine is way off from the standard setup. I always seem to stand out from the crowd when it comes to setups. I dialed the front way out (buggy green sring,) and really softened the rear (yellow spring), plus i made the front camberlink 2-c and the rear 2-a w/ 0deg antisquat. This is what works for me. I had bad oversteering just like my xxx which i just got setup nicely, i was so glad to see it push a little for the first time ever!!! :p

[007yoshi]

I should be in bed right now instead of reading this. :rolleyes:

[adnansal]

I have a thunder tiger nitro stadium truck and my second car will be the team losi xxx.
so any body can tell me how this car perform and what is its top speed? :confused:

[007yoshi]

I found a pic of the MF XXX-T at www.racers-haven.com (http://www.racers-haven.com) and its in the haven tech board under the hobbyshops section.

[Nairb]

Dude, how sweet is that!? Man, what a cool truck... I hated the blue stuff, but I LOVE the red stuff! I decided to change this to show both of RCCA's high-quality pics of it...

http://www.rccaraction.com/news/images/mattfrancis.jpg

http://www.rccaraction.com/news/images/mattfrancis_ch.jpg

Notice that the body is definitely not the stock XXXT body. CRAP, I want the cool red schtuff... hehe

[ 07-27-2001: Message edited by: Nairb ]

[007yoshi]

It looks alot like a Toyota to me.... I think its cooler than the stock body, but I still like the GMC the best :)

[Nairb]

Yeah, I still prefer the GMC, too. Just to clarify, I want the whole MFE XXXT, not necessarily the body...but it's cool.

Crap, I can't wait to see the whole MF line of Red stuff from Losi and Trinity. Hurry up, guys! :D

[007yoshi]

I'm seriously thinkin about getting me one on back order. Im only driving my dads xxxt, I want my own.

[losifreak2004]

That thing is sweeeeeeeeeeet. I want one also.

It's about time someone made red stuff!!!!!

[NTRacinGuy87]

Hey I think it just looks pretty but I have to admit it's a sweeeeeeeet truck. I'm fine with the regular XXX-T for the MEAN time.....

[Roach Racing]

This fall I will have both this and a BK XXX. That should be fun. Both tricked out right out of the box. Then I can woop on Nairb! :D

[william2001]

Gawd that truck is nice! I really like the body (and those HUGE windows). The red wheels are starting to grow on me, wasn't sure at first. What? No red screws? Oh well, like it matters.....

[NTRacinGuy87]

hey i was at the races this weekend and im tellin all of you to get a lathe and lathe the commutator lightly every 2 runs or so it will make ur motor last longer trust me on this one. i also burned up my slipper cuz i was runnin a fresh motor and i forgot to set my slipper after they started the race well the slipper was smokeing lol. yup i had lots o problems with the ol xxxt. well cya

wes

[NTRacinGuy87]

did you guys forget this forum or something?

[NTRacinGuy87]

zzzzzzzz.....

[losifreak2004]

Make your motor last longer? Are you on crack? Mod motors should go three-five runs, stock as many as 20-30 between trips to the lathe. I don't care how lightly you cut it, you are going through too much comm doing it that much, and many dyno tests I've done in the past at our "secret underground laboratory" yhave shown no performance loss if you go that far between cuts. My mentor at Trinity has also recommended that to me.

[NTRacinGuy87]

really, that was what i used to do but the MOTOR guy at my track lathes his like ever 2-3 runs.

[athowells]

How would you say is Team Losi's best XXX-T driver?

[Railman]

How often you need to cut the com is a result of many variables. Type of racing, motor design, driving style, gearing, brush cut, brush compound, spring pressure, just to name a few. I feel that a motor actually runs best right before the com needs to be cut. This is because as the com starts to break down & causes the brush to float just enough to reduce friction, & yet still transfer good current to the arm. From my experience with stock motors, two races with about 4 practice packs thrown in (12 runs)is about optimum for good com life. Much more & the breakdown of the copper at the slot is just too deep to clean up easily. Once the brush has to arc to transfer the current it deteriorates the com at a progressive rate. I can get much longer life out of a com by cutting it this way. The trick to getting a fresh com to perform is to reduce the brush surface area by serrating, slotting etc. I've had arms that only required .0015 to .02 to clean up each time in this fashion (with E brushes!) which resulted in a whole lot of life!
The other consideration to not cutting the com is the large amount of arcing that results in radio interferance. Just my $02

[losifreak2004]

athowells- Matt Francis, hands down

Railman- I can see the logic in that, but I have been in the "secret underground laboratory' (LOL) and seen for myself the wide range of effects due to everything we try, and I will only pass on what I have seen to work

[Nairb]

What turn mod is your D4? You're trying to use a 20 tooth pinion with it? That's not healthy for any part of your truck.

[NTRacinGuy87]

its a 12 turn triple, and all of these people are runnin cool... they have 12 turns, but i dont know the wounds...

Wes

[Gutter Ball]

Maybe your mesh is too tight. A properly geared stock motor will heat everything up quickly if your mesh is too tight.

[NTRacinGuy87]

Railman - your right, it does matter on the type of racing. i have huge jumps and long striaghts so it puts lots of stress on the motor and my xxx-t has been known to eat motors and run HOTTTTT. i have the stock spur, and deans plugs but these stupid D4's seem to run super hot. so i have to cut the comm alot. i tried to gear it down to 16 tooth on the pinoin but it still runs hut. everyone at my track that uses D4's uses 20 tooth pinoins and there motors are cool. what can i do to solve this problem.... i also have a cyclone speedo, trinity matched 2400's.... hmmm

[NTRacinGuy87]

also matt francis is the best...

[NTRacinGuy87]

ok people i finally got the motor runnin right and i just got back from the races, geuss what? i got first wooohoooo! newaz post on....

[athowells]

All you guys say you got all this cool gear on your XXX-T's but lets see some pictures. :rolleyes:

[doskit210]

I know I am new and that my poor xxt is probibly outdated. But I have learned alot just by reading your setups for the xxxt thanks. ;)

[Gutter Ball]

No way man! The XXT is still a competitor! We still have guys that run their XXT's(I have one as a backup to my XXXT) and they do well.

[doskit210]

thanks that makes me feel better. I hear that I can put some xxxt parts on my xxt is that correct?
:confused:

[losifreak2004]

You can with a lot of ingenuity. There are some that just can bolt on with little work, but it is not really worth it.

[NTRacinGuy87]

So im racin saturday. and uhh where is everyone? :confused:

[Gutter Ball]

Ummmm...looking at them side by side, doesn't seem anything is interchangeable, except the tires and shocks.

[cabbynate]

Is anyone using the Trinity XXX o degree aluminum rear hubs #TK5102? I want to get them but would like to know how they are working out.

[NTRacinGuy87]

I have 2 degree trinity rear pivot blocks and they help a ton on grip. Just a suggestoin.

[losifreak2004]

For electric the 0 degree ones should be more than enough. The new hubs make it very easy to tune the rear end. 2 degrees is overkill, you better be racing on ice before you need those. All that toe-in will hut you in rough spots and you will have a little more mid-corner steering. Forward bite will be better however.

[cabbynate]

How about the Trinity front caster blocks.
Any one running those?

[losifreak2004]

Haven't gotten any yet, I'll let you know how they work when I try them LOL. Adam should have his on his buggy in a few days.

[cabbynate]

Sweet. :)

[cabbynate]

No info on the Trinity Caster Blocks? :confused:

[losifreak2004]

He hasn't run his buggy yet, he might next weekend. I haven't gotten a pair yet either LOL.

I don't really think you will need them, I will see if Brian or Todd has tried them yet, but the stock ones should be just fine.

[Jason_R]

Ok i have too problems. I have some push with my truck since we have changed our local track. And my rear doesn't keep as much traction as i would like? Right now i am running 30 wt rear, 35 wt front, pinks rear, red front, rear step pins, front 8 ribed, shocks mounted on the second hole out on towers. Should i soften up my springs or maybe move my rear shocks out one hole in the rear? Grays rear and maybe pinks front? Thanks

[cabbynate]

Try 30 wt up front. Run the front arms level and the dogbones/cvd's just below level. ;)

[cabbynate]

Also switch to Directionals up front.Stright ribs on the inside. When I read your post I was thinking Taper-pins not step-pins. I would still try the other things with the tire change though.

[Nairb]

So, it pushes, but you don't have enough rear traction? Sounds like a contradiction to me...

Ok, this is what I would do: go to 30 wt oil in front, keep the red springs, and use directionals (tire compound depends on how much steering you want). In the rear, I'd keep it the same, but use yellow springs.

[ 09-15-2001: Message edited by: Nairb ]

[Jason_R]

I know Nairb but thats the best way i can explain it. Thanks guys, i will try some new set up tomarrow.

[NTRacinGuy87]

I did use directionals and now I use 8 ribbed. It gives me alot more steering than the old directionals. I also run a hard compound... can't remember what it was. but I had a really soft compound for my directionals and they just did'nt work for me.

Is the fantom wound modifieds better than the stock modified armatures?

ex. Team fantom D4 armature vs. Trinity D4 armature.

And what is the difference between the two of them?

[athowells]

How good is this truck at bashing/thrashing/jumping around the yard?

[roadrash909]

how bout the new matt francis edition? what do u guys think of it? :D

[roadrash909]

[ 09-18-2001: Message edited by: RoAdRaSh909 ]

[losifreak2004]

The XXXT is a great backyard basher. Good for jumping, great for driving on tracks, and is is very durable. The Matt Francis edition ROCKS.

8-ribs smooth out steering on a dry track. Directionals will feel a little "edgy". I almost always run red fronts with Losi firm foam, which is the stuff that comes with it. If your track is dry, try T-2000's or T-Bones, Taper Pins is if there is no dust. If it is wet, Step Pins will almost always work.

Try this setup if you need some front/rear traction. http://www.teamlosi.com/pdfs/setups/triple-xt/xxxtstd_adam.pdf It will work on wet and dry tracks. Also, if you still need more rear traction, try CVD's.

The Fantom and Trinity D4 armatures are almost exactly the same, if not exactly the same. They are both made by Epic, but they could be changed a little bit before assembly.

[SirSpeedy]

Aaron has got it covered there.

The one place to gain rear traction with Adam's setup is to run the rear camber link in the B hole on the rear hub carrier.

[ctaylor8211]

Is the new Fury body any better, or is it just something different. I've been wondering that. Either way I'm going to get one.

[Nairb]

I totally dig it, except for the big fat windows... The Pro-Line GMC is still my fave for the XXXT.

[SirSpeedy]

The new body is slammed!

[kart38]

This post seems to have dropped down in the list.

I finally got my XXX-T MF running and took it to a BMX track today. This thing flys so well, I just can't believe it. Made me feel like I knew what I was doing :)

I am fairly certain that my local off-road track is done for the season, so I have to wait (rather impatiently) for next season.

Jason

[Nairb]

I'm so glad there is no "off-season" at my track. That is SO nice. :D

[Roach Racing]

I just finished putting together my new mf xxxt and my only advice is: tap the 2 screw holes on the back of the tranny that are for the top motor guard mount. I stripped both of the button head screws that go in there and then scratched my motor guard up removing the screws. :(

Other then that I have one complaint. There is no turnbuckle wrench in the kit, or at least one that will fit the titanium turnbuckles.

Corey

[kart38]

There is no turnbuckle wrench in the kit, or at least one that will fit the titanium turnbuckles.

Ahh....good, it wasn't just me then! That makes me feel, slightly, better. Fortunately for me I could use the wrench that is for my Yokomo turnbuckles.

I never had a problem with screws, though I did tap all (or at least most) of the holes.

Jason

[Roach Racing]

I had a couple old wrenchs from lunsford, the trick alum ones. But I have lost them, so i am going to have to borrow one.

Corey

[Nairb]

Dude, I have an extra Lunsford wrench.

I recommend this to ALL XXX and XXXT owners: NEVER use the button-head screws in the top of the tranny case. Use (#17) 3/8" cap-head screws instead. I tell this to EVERYONE that doesn't know it yet. I actually use 3/8" flat-head titanium screws with red aluminum countersunk washers there (and a few other places) just because it looks cool and will be even more secure. Oh boy, do I dig this crap or what!?

While I'm at it, if you got a regular XXXT kit or a spec version, follow this tip: use 1/2" flat-head screws to secure the rear pivot block, then tighten aluminum mini-locknuts on top of it. This will keep your pivot block much more secure and can really help you avoid breaking the pivot block because of loose screws. FYI, the KE and MF edition XXX series cars have this tip already written in their books.

Keep on truckin' doooooods... :D

[Roach Racing]

So you going to hook me up with one of your wrenchs? :)

Ill be up to race next week or maybe this saturday(but dont count on it)

Corey

[TEAMTED]

Hey everybody! I am brand new to electric, but have been doing nitro for the past three years. I am getting rid of my gt, even though it is so nice and fast, and getting a matt francis xxt. I think that nitro is too much of a hassle. I am getting the kit for 199.99, and then i'll need electronics. Could somebody give me a list of electronics that are fast and race-worthy? I don't want to have crappy stuff, i want to at least be able to keep up with the other cars. THANKS ALOT GUYS!!!

TPAN

[SirSpeedy]

If you are a racer already, you will most likely want the good stuff to start, so I would recommend a Cycone ESC, and a KO 2123 servo. The Rx should be the one that came with your radio.

Enjoy!!

[Nairb]

Cool, dude! I hope you have fun racing electric. I sure love it!

This is what I recommend:

- Novak C2 (Cyclone 2) ESC
- Novak XXtra receiver (not necessary, but the frequency flexibility rocks)
- Airtronics 94357 servo (super fast and plenty strong. I've never tried the KO) [BTW, MF uses them in all his cars]
- definitely use some new 3000 Panasonic SMH or Sanyo HV batteries, they rock
- for stock, use a P2K or Chrome stock
- for mod, use a Reedy Ti or Trinity P-94 (11x2s are nice and so are 12x2s)

Otherwise, dude...you should be set. I also highly recommend the new Millenium Pro Charger; it rocks the house over the Millennium.

[T/Losi]

Anyone here got a Spec Truck?
How well does it perform?
Is it worth it?

[lositeamdriver]

hello

i have a xxxt with all graphite and ti tanium turnbuckles it also has a d4 12*3 and g-10 esc also 3 batts 1 2000 and 2 2400 all for 200 shiped email me


racerchops@aol.com

[Roach Racing]

athowells - I have had a spec truck and it was good for the money. I had the bearings to upgrade it so it wasnt a true spec kit. But I hear they are comming with bearing instead of bushings. I raced this truck and was competitive.

Is this a starting truck or just trying something new? Either way you should be fine.

Corey

[Nairb]

The spec truck is definitely worth the money, but the MF XXXT is even MORE worth the money! :^) Not everybody wants or needs all the cool stuff, though...

[T/Losi]

Ever had any problems with the XXX-T Spec? eg; broken parts, parts failure
People have complained that it's don't durable but in the R/C Car Action Mag review they rated the Durablity of it EXCELLENT. Is it durable?

[Scrad]

So do you people not like talking about your xxxt???

I was wanting to know if anyone has a good set up for carpet oval racing??? I getting ready to go to my first race tomorrow. Mainly I'm just going to get some experience before I start tweaking my truck.

My set up so far is like the Drake set up on the Losi page, execpt for yellow springs in the rear and pink in the front and a little bit different shock set up.

So please give me some info. Like are stiffer springs better, camber adjustments anything..... Thanks.

[Scrad]

Are you people alive???? Well I guess my set up was good cause I got 1st in both of my heats and 3rd in the final. Pretty good for my first race ever I must say. It was really fun.

But, I would still like some info about carpet racing if anyone has any info to offer.

Come on people talk!!!!!!!!

[losifreak2004]

XXX arms on the left side (XXX dogbone on left side, as well as the shorter tie-rods) Right front shock silver spring, 40 wt and 57 piston. Right rear, orange spring with 40 wt. and a 55 piston.. Left rear red spring with 35 wt and 56 piston. Left front orange spring with 30 wt and 55 piston.


Try that. The guy I recommended that too is running a carpet road course, not an oval. Give it a shot, and tell me how it works.

[SirClimbAlot86]

Please share with me the best hop-ups available for the XXX-T. I mainly bash but i like going fast and looking good too. ;-)


You really cant tell what has been done to the truck through this pic but it has Pro-Line Sand Paddle rear tiresk, stock fronts, and the most ground clearance possible with stock shocks and arms.






D:\\My Documents\My Pictures\wheelie.jpg

[losifreak2004]

The only thing it needs really are some Ti turnbuckles, such as the Lunsford ones. Anything else is just extra.

[Scrad]

I can vouch for the titanium turnbuckles. I got hit last week and my car tumbled and one of those little buggers broke. I'll be buying some this week. I think I'm going to keep the originals for the steering though. As for any other hop up's I can't really think of any. I think the truck is pretty solid, except for the turnbuckles.

losifreak, thanks for the setup. I haven't tried it yet since my set up is working for me. I got first in the A main last week. That was my second race ever. I think I may go with a heavier weight shock oil next time. I'm still using the stuff that came with the kit.

[rcracer38]

WHY!!! WHY???? HELP!!! HELP??? I hate rebuilding the diff in this TRUCK! Please help. Everytime I rebuilt it, according to the book, I tighten the thing down as tight as I can get it by hand. Then I run it a little, bring it back in and tighten again. It seems to last only 1 month and then I am rebuilding it again! The thing keeps melting on me. What am I doing wrong? I hate it... Maybe I should get a GT??? hehehe...

Please help...

[Scrad]

rcracer, what kinda motor are you running? Just curious. Are you sure your putting the washers in the right way? It also calls for different grease for the diff washers and then the big diff gear. But if your doing it like the manual calls for like you say you are. You shouldn't have to rebuild it so often. What is actually melting? I tighten my diff by putting an allen screw on the one side and then screw the thing tight on the other with a screw driver. I've had my truck for about 4 months now and I only rebuilt my diff once because a washer shattered from jumping from grass to concrete. Just one more thing I can think of would be that your slipper is to tight and not doing it's job protecting the diff.