Team Losi XXXNT forum v5.0

[kvn xxx-nt]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
[B i think either i stripped the nut, so the diff screw is just turning inside the nut.. or i stripped the screw and it is just spinning in the nut.. I can tgrip it with any pliers, cuz the nut is inside the outdrive.. [/B]
Try pushing a screwdrive or something up against the nut to hold it in place while unscrewing it from the other side.

[cave]

I stripped the small nut inside the the plastic carrier. I had to pry a small screw driver between the small nut carrier and the out shaft. this was a !@%^$@$^% But it did work its way out.

[Juice]

This has to do with my d-- starter box! I have the dynamite ultra start and it was fine till the stock motors (2) went out on it! Now the problem---I replaced the motors with regular stock motors! I wired them up to run the correct way but it turns the starter wheel the wrong way! If I wire the motors the other way, they run backwards (not good) but turns the wheel slower the correct way! and will not start my truck---
So do I need reverse running motors?? Which ones?


Has anyone replaced there batt box with th eNative one? How do you like it and do you have a nice pict of it?


Thanks

[losimaniac87]

Man, its been a while since I've posted here. My XXX-NT is doin great I'm still waiting for good weather and for snow to melt though. This winter I took her all apart and replaced basically everything that showed excessive wear. Not its as tight as a button.

I have the following upgrades/accessories on my truck:

-Trinty front and rear aluminum pivot blocks
-Graphite shock towers
-Aluminum Top Shaft
-Titanium Turnbuckles
-titanium hinge pins
-nitride coated shock shafts
-Trinty NiMh 1100 rx pack
-RB Concept X12 Turbo
-Futaba 3PJS
-Airtronics servos

I've had the car since the first week of release, and she still runs great after racing 1-2 times a week during spring, summer, and fall. I'm one the only Losi guys left :eek: at my track.

I just got the new Crowd Pleazer NT body for it by Proline, and its sweet. It's skinny and short. The body wraps aroudn the chassis and sits really low, I love it. I painted it w/ flames and a silver backround.

[WheelNut]

Juice-The motors turn slower because the timing becomes retarted if you switch the polarity. So basically you can't use stock motors with your starter box. You could get some more of the ones that come with your box. Or buy 2 motors with adjustable timing, or just plain sealed endbell motors, liek the ones that are included with Tamiya kits.

[winning edge designs]

Tarvymoto, I posted the 1/8th tires on the 7.5 thread. But in Gas truck it'll be Step pins most of the weekend. We may get rain, then it will definatly be step pins.....I have seen it get good enough for ifmars, once in a while, or even Holeshots on rare occasions, so bring some of those................see you there, Jim

[offroadcrazy01]

THXS 4 THE HELP

[Juice]

Thats what I was thinking, But thought also I was doing something wrong???? So Ill guess Ill get me the correct motors for my starter box!!

Thanks

[Got Speed]

Does anyone have a really good way that gets tires off of the wheels with the glue and all. So you don't have to pry the glue and tear the tire into peices to get it off. Or, soak it in acetone(for the price of the acetone Id rather buy new wheels). Or, boiling it since it fades the wheels real bad, makes the pan hard to clean, ect.

Or is there anywhere you can buy wheels in bulk and get them cheaper? Like 3 sets of more?

Thanks

[stefcold]

I've tried all the different method you mentioned, but the easiest and cleanest way to remove tires from wheels is to bake them.

I'm not kidding, preheat the oven to 400F, once the oven has reach this temperature, turn it off. Put your wheel/tire on a cookie tray and put them in the oven. Leave them in for a least half a hour. After take them out and you should be able to pop the tire off the wheel with a little pressure. I do it while they're still hot, using oven mit and applying pressure to the tire.

This does a really clean job and because the oven has been turn off there is no chance of an element turning on and melting your tire.

Stef...

[dkj-M3]

What stefcold said & use a cookie sheet with a peice of aluminum foil on it.

[Juice]

Im guessing I can purchase 2 slightly modified reverse rotation motors and still be ok??

like these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXW929&P=7

[losifreak2004]

I use the acetone trick to get my tires off the rims....

Aaron Waldron

[pooldoc101]

How do you use acetone? And do you have any tips for gluing tires, mine seem to come loose easily.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

Has anyone tried any of the CYA debonders? In my case, i'm trying to save the tires.

[banditwing]

Wow it's been a while since I checked on this forum...

Hey guys I just got the ofna reciver pack that someone mentioned a few pages back, it fits well. I also replaced the .050 screws with 2-56 x 1/2" socket head cap screws as others have suggested. It is soooo much easier to access the battery pack now, and I think it even looks better:p . I tried drilling the holes out to use a 3/32 cap head screw (or whatever the size of the screw is:confused: ) on a spare battery box, but the wider caps of the screw seemed to pinch the cover and allow it to not seal as well, although others might have diffrent experiences.

I still havent been able to buy an engine for my xxx-nt, but what do you guys think of a OS cvr slide carb (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ73&P=7) and an OFNA pink starter box (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXU5&P=7) combo? I was thinking of a traxxas 2.5, or sirio 3.0, but I've heard rumors that the 2.5 doesnt last long and the sirio might be just a bit tooo powerful hehe. (And also more $$$).

My associated hex driver (1/16) is wearing out, yet my trinity hex driver is doing fine (3/32). Could that be because of the smaller screw size for the Associated driver? Or is it just the quality of the drivers? I think I am going to try a little re-grinding of the associated driver with my dremel before I go buying a new tip.

Since these are the only high quality hex drivers I have for my truck (the others are bondhaus(sp?)) I am thinking of going out and buying a set of hex drivers in the future. I like the hudy set, has anyone used those? The RPM set also looks nice, but the hex drivers are not in the sizes I would need. (I would need to buy them individually). How about the TL race wrenches? Basically, which driver will have the toughest tip? I was thinking either the hudy or the thorp (mip) ones? Please give your experiences.

Thanks
-Banditwing

[cave]

I just picked up a Mugen MT .12. Its got a slide carb. Ive checked all around town for the A-9410 threaded throttle rod no one has em. Any one know how long the Losi threaded rod is? Is it the same as the Z-bend rod? Is there a possible substitute? I see in the manual the servo is reversed. Is there a company
(brand name) that sells threaded rod?
cave:)

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

cave-the model airplane side of your LHS (gasp !) will have 12" lengths of fully threaded rod. R/C airplane control linkages use 2-56 threaded ends for their clevis attachment.

banditwing-I got the metric and US sized Losi allen drivers for Christmas '02. Expen$ive, but really nicely done.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by xxxOS12CVRnt
Has anyone tried any of the CYA debonders? In my case, i'm trying to save the tires.

I didn't know there were any. Do you know where to get some. I may try that too. The oven dosn't ruin the wheels, tires, or oven does it? :p

banditwing- The sirio .18 will not fit. I am not sure about the TRX .15. You will need a rear exuast manifold for both of those. The .12 CV-R is a good engine. For racing the slide carb might not be the best but that is what I use. I also use the pink starter box. It is fairly compact for an 1/8th scale box but has plenty of power. The tips I really don't know anything about. I have heard good things about the hudy tools and the dynamite tools for their price. I am using the trinity drivers(I won from RCCA :p ) and they don't show any wear at all. I wouldn't spend $12 a tool if it were my money though(being on a tight budget for racing)

[AreCee]

Originally posted by xxxOS12CVRnt
Has anyone tried any of the CYA debonders? In my case, i'm trying to save the tires.

Foget about debonders, forget about acetone and forget about boiling.

I finally found the best way to remove tires that were CAed to wheels. It's baking. Yes bake your tire/wheels at 350 degrees for 15 minutes and the tires can be popped off without much damage (maybe a very little tire may remain on the wheel, but not very much). Put the wheels on a cookie sheet that is covered with Al foil and bake. You can let them cool off so they're warm to the touch before breaking off the CA but it works better when they are still hot, about 5 to 10 minutes after removing them from the oven.

You'll be able to reuse the tire, insert (if it isn't broken down) and wheel again. I've used this method on several sets and have not had any problems yet.

There is a down side to this method and that's the smell it makes from being heated in the oven. Your mother/wife/girlfriend/roommate may object. If so then find an old toaster/oven and use that.

[MikeWz]

Yeah, burning rubber doesn't smell to good.

Cave-e-mail me your e-mail address again, I lost the previous e-mail. I have the pictures all scanned in and ready to go.

[Nitroooo]

Hey guys, I didn't have much time on here tonight to do a search. So I'm gonna ask again....I've just broke my motor in and when it sat and idled, there was alot of raw fuel coming from the exhaust. It would leave a puddle. And when I was done, I sat it in the floorboard of my truck and left it for a little bit and when I came back it just kept seeping out the exhaust. The line from the exhaust to the tank was full and looked as though it was being pushed back out. I know I seen somewhere on here that someone else was having this problem. Whoever it was, what did you do to cure this, or what can I do to cure this...Thanks everybody. Since I got my truck and while I was putting it together....This is the place I turn to get information...You guys are great

[TripleXNTGhost]

Well if you just broke in your motor, you more than like ly were running it really rich...right???..... well when you do that, raw fuel and the oil in the fuel is supposed to come out of the pipe. Only after you get done breaking in the engine after running it rich, you should take the truck and tilt it on its side to let all the raw fue and oill still left in the pipe run out.


Hope this helps.........:p

[cave]

MikeWz
could ya please? PM me if ya can with that photo.

xxxOS12CVRnt, thanks for the info. I looked there At the local Hobby shop everthing but that size, maybe Tuesday. I never could wait for anything.

I have that problem too. Still hehe. I open the filler lid. I saw the Tank on the Drake and It has the pressure line on the cap Seams to work ok there. I asked alot of questions today at the track. I was told the same thing everyone here has told me. Move the pressure tube to the cap with a 90 degree nipple. I found that if I open the cap to the tank It releases the pressure. Try it. I think Ill get the tank with the nipple molded on the cap.
I by far am no expert with this truck. Got speed, W E D, losifreak2004 and others have really helped me out with this endeaver...
cave

[rccarman5]

just wanted some help. i can get either a hs-625mg or a hs-645mg. which one to get? i know the 625 has more speed. but the 645 has torque. which one?

also, will loctite work on my header bolts? the header material seems to have no effect with it. i lost one today and it kept running even though the header was all unalligned.

[Nitroooo]

Yep I broke it in with the settings on the rich side. But the fluid coming out the exhaust was a large amount, seemed a little more that normal. It has the line that goes from the exhaust to the tank full of fuel. Do you think if I installed the pressure fitting in the tank lid that would stop all that? Thanks all

[TripleXNTGhost]

Well it couldnt hurt to try it, I havent tried that myself.....



:D

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

rccarman - I'd get the 625, I've had a 645 but its too slow.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

My new aluminum rims :D

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

oops, forgot to say that I just used those tires because I didn't have an extra pair to try on. Now it has 1060 pro-line street tires :)

[TripleXNTGhost]

Those are sweet rims..........


:D

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by AreCee
Foget about debonders, forget about acetone and forget about boiling.

I finally found the best way to remove tires that were CAed to wheels. It's baking. Yes bake your tire/wheels at 350 degrees for 15 minutes and the tires can be popped off without much damage (maybe a very little tire may remain on the wheel, but not very much). Put the wheels on a cookie sheet that is covered with Al foil and bake. You can let them cool off so they're warm to the touch before breaking off the CA but it works better when they are still hot, about 5 to 10 minutes after removing them from the oven.

You'll be able to reuse the tire, insert (if it isn't broken down) and wheel again. I've used this method on several sets and have not had any problems yet.

There is a down side to this method and that's the smell it makes from being heated in the oven. Your mother/wife/girlfriend/roommate may object. If so then find an old toaster/oven and use that.

Does it fade the wheels?

cave- The new tanks have the line moved to the lid of the tank? Were people having trouble with the tank that has the fuel line on the top and the pressure line on the top? Or are people having trouble with one that has a fuel line on the side of the tank? I use the tank with the two on top, the fuel line closest to the engine with no problems at all.

rccarman5- For offroad I would suggest the 645MG instead of the 625. With 6V you are making less than 100oz/in of torque. IMO 100+ oz/in of torque is ideal with .2- transit speed. Yes loctite will work on it. Do you have the aluminum seal on it?

[AreCee]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Does it fade the wheels?

I haven't noticed the wheels fading but I only use the yellow wheels so I'm not sure how the red ones will hold up. You will need to clean off the old CA from the wheel before remounting a set of tires.

[cave]

Got Speed

This is my fuel tank below. Dont know if this is the new design or old. I also have the same problem with fuel flowing out of the pipe. It also floods the engine. I was told to buy the tank with the nipple molded on the lid. The one I saw was on a Drake edition. I'll get a picture If the guy lets me
I'm told that I will loose upsidedown run time with the nipple on the lid. So far I just lift the lid to release the pressure. Works most of the time.
cave

[grimlock3000]

today i got a nice padded envelope with the outdrive my kit was missing, thanks losi! as soon as i got it, i cleaned the whole house just so my wife would not get upset when i vanished into my work room for the night to keep building my kit :)

getting one of the spirol pins into the pivot was almost impossible for me. my first universal went together with no issues at all. on the second one, the pin would not go into the pivot more than half way. i tried pretty much everything i would think of, i was putting my full weight onto the pliers and the pin was not moving. eventually i used part of my kitchen counter, different pliers, and got a bunch of leverage off a chair and laid into the pliers until the pin finally went into the pivot the rest of the way :o the axle looks really ruffed up now but it is still perfectly straight and i have no doubt the pin will NEVER come out :D

i have everything built up to the shocks which i will start on tomorrow. i have the kit shock oil and associated 40 and 50 weight silicon oil. which of the shock oils i have should i used in the shocks? i am just bashing, and up until now i have built everything to kit specs so far.

[pooldoc101]

rccarman5--- I had the same problem with my header coming loose and tryed loctite but it didnt work, it seemed the heat would release the loctite! I finally went to LHS and got some lock nuts and put them on the back side of exhaust bolt,mine sticks out far enough to do this.
that picture of the fuel tank is the old style, the newer tank has the nipple in the lid. I have that old style tank and have had no problems with it. The guys at the track said that is partially caused by shutting off engine by putting finger on stinger, you're diverting all pressure into tank by doing thatand it will cause too much fuel to get to engineand flood it and then it comes out pipe. I use a wooden dowel to shut off motor, putting it on flywheel will shut it down.

[langywangy]

Hi guys i keep seeing this fuel tank problem occuring and i have posted a solution many times but you all seem to insist on buying new tanks. if the internl pressure nipple is cut off even a short amount inside, then the problem is solved i have done this after having the same problem and its fine now, dont waste money you could use on other stuff. If youre going to get a new tank anyway then youve got nothing to lose by doing this mod just to see if you are worried about wrecking it.

cheers

[cave]

pooldoc101

Thanks for that info . I always stop the engine by puting my finger over the stinger. I'll try the dowel trick...

langywangy

I dont always have this problem. When it occurs its Pisses me off. Now I lift the lid and WALA! all better...This was a problem for me when I first got the truck.
Do you have digital camera or scanner to show me how you get a cutter inside that lid hole? Scissors maybe?
Ive taken all the advice you all have given me and I have tryed to keep America stong by spending my money where it made good practical sence. This is alot less expensive as my other weekend endevers.
Thanks langywangy you advice is well recieved.

Got Speed
Did you make it out to SRS last night?
cave

[rccarman5]

wait, it can use those tires? well proline makes them for losi? or for the mt etc. 4wd cars? did u put them just on the rear? were can i get those and a whole list of tires that are compatible with our truck. thaks

[banditwing]

Any 2.2 truck tire will fit the XNT! Proline makes them for any 2.2 truck tire rim, I'm using them on my Eletric Rustler right now in fact.

A pretty silly question, but would Mashers 2000 be legal for racing? I know your performance would suffer, but I'm just curious hehe;)

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

I dunno if it would be illegal for racing, but I just used those tires to take some pictures. :)

[losifreak2004]

Moving the pressure fitting to the cap lid will NOT hurt your truck's ability to stay running while upside down...in fact, it'll probably help, as the pressure will no longer be trying to force the lid open...

This will stop your engine from hydro-locking and stop fuel from pouring out of the pipe.

Rather than try to catch up on everything...anyone have any questions?

Aaron Waldron

[pooldoc101]

DaLosiGuy-who makes those wheels?

Aaron, I got a question, racing today my truck was handling great, we were running later than usual and the sun went down over the hill. Suddenly the truck got loose as heck, why? And it happened right before the mains.:confused:

[Nitroooo]

Hey Aaron, does Trinity carry the pressure fitting? My LHS might, I'm not really sure. Do you know a part no. for it? Would this be the reason that I had so much raw fuel coming from the exhaust during breakin? I know it's possible to have some.....but if I idled it for a sec in one spot...there was a major puddle. After I was done and put it in my truck the line from exhaust going to the tank was full of fuel and was pushing it back out the pipe. Just thought I'd explain it again....Would this fix the problem? Also, do you lock up the diff or tightening it just under where it starts the barking or chirping noise? Thanks alot..Steve

[dkj-M3]

the new updated tank everyone is talking about (http://www.thedrake.net/pictures/DSCN3598.JPG)

[langywangy]

Heres th pic of how to do it. it is a bit tricky and youll probably need some bend lexan scissors like the ones im using here. also notice the pen that is propping open the tankotherwise itll take your fingers off lol.

[cave]

Thank you much langywangy. I'll give it a try. The worse that can happen is I'll need a new tank
:D

[Got Speed]

I still run my old-style tank without a problem. I stop mine with the plastic handle of a screwdriver too. I used to do the stinger method without any problem though too.

cave- I wasn't out there saturday but Im going to be there this saturday(the 1st). Ill probably bring my 1/8th scale and micro to play around with too. Hope to see you there. Have you raced yet?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
today i got a nice padded envelope with the outdrive my kit was missing, thanks losi! as soon as i got it, i cleaned the whole house just so my wife would not get upset when i vanished into my work room for the night to keep building my kit :)

getting one of the spirol pins into the pivot was almost impossible for me. my first universal went together with no issues at all. on the second one, the pin would not go into the pivot more than half way. i tried pretty much everything i would think of, i was putting my full weight onto the pliers and the pin was not moving. eventually i used part of my kitchen counter, different pliers, and got a bunch of leverage off a chair and laid into the pliers until the pin finally went into the pivot the rest of the way :o the axle looks really ruffed up now but it is still perfectly straight and i have no doubt the pin will NEVER come out :D

i have everything built up to the shocks which i will start on tomorrow. i have the kit shock oil and associated 40 and 50 weight silicon oil. which of the shock oils i have should i used in the shocks? i am just bashing, and up until now i have built everything to kit specs so far.

It depends on how you will be bashing it. Id start with 40 and go from there. Thinner oil will cause more roll, bottom out easier, be more responsive, and be twitchier. More will cause less roll, less responsive and more stable.

[akprice]

hey guys, i'm new to the nitro scene and have had a xxx-nt now for a month or so. it's running great but my brakes aren't working that good. how do i get better braking? which way do i adjust the collars that are on the linkage arm? and is there anything else that i can do? thanks for your help.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by akprice
hey guys, i'm new to the nitro scene and have had a xxx-nt now for a month or so. it's running great but my brakes aren't working that good. how do i get better braking? which way do i adjust the collars that are on the linkage arm? and is there anything else that i can do? thanks for your help.

You can take a peice of sandpaper and sand in circular motions on the brake dis and pads. Or, you can buy a new disk and pads. You can adjust it for more braking by moving the colars forward too. If you move them too far you can get drag brake(which is when the brakes is applied when the throttle is at neutral). If the tires already lock up try getting some tires more suited to what you are running on. If you still want more brake after everything else you can buy a stronger steering servo.

[Mr Hat]

Just got my XXXNt sport last night! I cant wait to run it, damn weather. I just ran 6 tanks through it to break it in and I tried to tighten the dif. I think I did it right according to the instructions. Is there a way to notice if the dif is too tight or loose based on how it drives besides the dif snapping? This is my second truck, the first is my SloppyTrax Maximum ST which I still plan on putting the 2 speed on just for bashing but I hate the way it handles (or doesnt handle even with bearings).
Ive tried to go through all the pages on here to answer my questions but there are just way too many.
Does anyone besides Team Losi with their graphite parts make aftermarket stuff for the XXXNT?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Mr Hat
Just got my XXXNt sport last night! I cant wait to run it, damn weather. I just ran 6 tanks through it to break it in and I tried to tighten the dif. I think I did it right according to the instructions. Is there a way to notice if the dif is too tight or loose based on how it drives besides the dif snapping? This is my second truck, the first is my SloppyTrax Maximum ST which I still plan on putting the 2 speed on just for bashing but I hate the way it handles (or doesnt handle even with bearings).
Ive tried to go through all the pages on here to answer my questions but there are just way too many.
Does anyone besides Team Losi with their graphite parts make aftermarket stuff for the XXXNT?

If it is too loose the diff will slip instead of the slipper. Hold the spur gear and one wheel in one hand while turning the other wheel forward. If the slipper plate turns it isn't too loose. Too tight is what you really have to get the feel for more than anything. If it is too tight it won't hurt it, you will just loose some traction. Usually you just want to run is so the diff isn't slipping but so that it isn't too hard to turn. As long as the diff dosn't slip you don't have to worry about melting it. Trinity makes the most aluminum parts for it and then there are two other companies making stuff(sorry I can't remember there names, someone else can help there). Trinity makes pivot blocks, axel carriers, tranny brace, reciever switch tray, screw kit, etc. One of the others companys makes an aluminum upper deck and batt box and the other one makes aluminum arms.

[RCRACER2471]

I know that Native Racing makes the aluminum upper deck and battery box...

[jcnmt]

hey w.e.d what place you get yesterday?

[Mr Hat]

GotSpeed,
Thanks alot. I think I got the dif tight enough then, I did exactly what you (and the manual) said. I finally drove the thing for the first time, wow. It is tight as hell, handles like a dream! I cant wait to see what it does off road. Now I did have one problem though. I splashed through the corner of a puddle, I didnt think I got it that wet but now my steering servo is commanding a full right turn with no input from my transmitter. When I do turn my transmitter, it tries to turn the wheels a little or does the opposite of what I am telling to do or just glitches. I thought maybe I got my reciever wet but the throttle servo is working fine, maybe I just soaked the steering servo? I got my servos wet while driving in snow with my Sloppytrax and never had a problem, any ideas. Right now I put the car in the bathroom and cranked the heat to dry the car out then I guess Ill see what happens. I really hope I dont need a new steering servo after one drive.

[pooldoc101]

Hey guys, I finally figured it out, I posted yesterday that my truck real loose in the mains, well I remember in the pits, I grabbed my radio and heard it beep before the main. I just checked the dual rate and it was up to 110% on channel 1! I usually run it at 85%. My Lynx 3-D has a dual rate button on the pistol grip and I must have hit it in the pits! What a dweeb!:( I guess that will teach me to check radio settings when I hear a beep.

[cave]

Got Speed,
I got to learn how to drive this two wheel drive truck. I Usually power through the turns with my NMT. Im catchin on quick. Got Bowties for the rear. The truck handles like its on rails now. I want to practice a little bit more before I get out there and race. I would hate to cause some one a bunch of money by smackin into or not getting outa the way quick enough.

I think I got Saturday off. I'll be there real early. 6 or 7 am. I hear there going to tear up the track after the races and the track will be closed till the end of March. There gunna freshen up the track for the Cactus Classic.

Sorry bout the repetitve fuel tank deal. Someone had the same problem as me. Just thought I'd add my .01 cent with a picture.:D

Mr Hat, your gunna love this nitro. No Doubt About It. You may want to save up for an aluminum Trinity rear pivot block Part number TK5056. A arms are alot faster to change than the plastic pivot block. There are some really cool people on this site that really helped me out.
cave

[cave]

1st
Is there a better Flywheel & cluch out there for the XXX-NT? I just bought a Mugen .12 and I was wondering if the stock flywheel and clutch are going to work ok with this motor.
2nd
What starter boxes are you all using? Which one has the best options and reliability. Found out my old hand held one dont work that well.
If this has been covered, please direct me to the page number.:D
cave

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Originally posted by pooldoc101
DaLosiGuy-who makes those wheels?

Aaron, I got a question, racing today my truck was handling great, we were running later than usual and the sun went down over the hill. Suddenly the truck got loose as heck, why? And it happened right before the mains.:confused:

pooldoc101 - The wheels were made by Team Aero-RC. The site is http://www.aero-rc.com/. Tell him Christian sent you :)

[rccarman5]

i was wondering if there is anything i can do to better seal my tranny. wat i have down is putting teflone tape at the seeps but i'm wondering if dirt will enter through the outdrives. it doens't seem too sealed up. maybe i can use teflon on that also? anyone have any problems with dirt entering? because it just seems to be open. i ran my car in a baseball field and it got kinda dusty. i opened the tranny after the 4 tanks(before the exhaust bolts came loose) and no dirt was in it. i was very happy though it still seems that dirt can enter. anyone?

also i think i'll use the 625(hitec) i just can't stand slow servos. besides, i was running a temp 40 oz servo and it put up pretty well. so that 90 oz will just be incredable.

[losifreak2004]

pooldoc - As the track temperature drops, traction will drop also. Plus, colder weather can make shock oil thicken up (compared to being hot during the day), which will change how your truck works.

Nitrooo - I'm not sure if Trinity sells a pressure fitting for the tank, but I used the Ofna 90 degree one for mine.

The raw fuel during break-in was more than likely caused by the rich jetting.

rccarman - By using the blue dust seals that are included with the kit, your tranny will stay fairly clean....but there isn't really anything you can do to make it dirt-proof. If you plan on running in very sandy conditions, just remember to keep your truck clean, and tear it down every once in a while to check it.

A bead of sealant will work around the edges of the diff case as well.

Did I miss anyone?

Aaron Waldron

[Mr Hat]

Cave,
I finally got to really run this truck at the school today, your right, Im in love with this truck! It just cranks..period. I wanted a great handling truck and the only thing I was compairing my last truck to was the RC10Gt, I figured I'd try the Losi just because my buddy has the RC10Gt. After tonight, I like the Losi even more! Turns out the glitching I was having was due to a million dollar water drop that just found the wrong place as I hit another puddle tonight and nothing happened. Nothing a hair dryer cant fix. This forum is where I researched to find the right truck for me and thanks to all you guru's out there who helped me make my decision. I dont trust magazine ads, I trust those who acutally play with these expensive toys!

[Got Speed]

cave- Cool, how late will you be there? If there is a novice class maybe you should sign up for that. Ive been hacked so many times and all in novice I couldn't even count. The people are more good-natured seeing as everyone is new at driving.

As long as you got a std. crank mugen the flywheel and clutch bell will be fine.

They are going to tear it up after the races this saturday? Ive been wondering when they were going to do it but havn't asked. It's kind of fun to do that and you get input into the new track

[Crashbot2001]

RCCarman5, there are Several things you can do to help keep dirt out of the tranny. First, as Aaron mentioned, use some silicon to join the two hlaves. Second, throw away the thin blue dust shield washer that comes with the tranny and make your own thicker one from one of those foam ear plugs. Lastly, if you do nothing else, do this: Use some more of the foam ear plug material to "plug" the outdrives. Cut a piece about 1/8" thick and put it in each the outdrives before inserting the dogbones. This does wonders for making your diff last longer and keeps most of the dirt out. Good Luck

[rccarman5]

wat about at the outdrive bearings? and wat do u mean blue dust seal? the foam dust seal at the diff screw? the bearing and the outdrive contact eachother and nothing seems to seal them any better but their contacts. any ideas?

[cave]

Got Speed, In responce to If there is a novice class maybe you should sign up for that That might be possible. But as you know Its rainning outside. May be a great day out in the desert to ride the Banshee. I will be there in the mornin. Ya never know if the truck is still in one piece by evening I may run it. Its been years since I'v run a race with RCs. Last time was at Fast Lanes in Suagus California It was a indoor track. My knees where shaking so bad I couldnt run a straight line with my Optima...HEHEHe It was a 4 wheel drive. heeheh
Got Speed do run a starter box?
I seen the new layout in the store. Looks alot bigger. They are adding another 6 ft east by what ever it is north & south. To bad they won t open it up till after the classic is over...
the fly wheel and clutch will work fine... thanks GS
cave

[MikeWz]

Originally posted by Crashbot2001
RCCarman5, there are Several things you can do to help keep dirt out of the tranny. First, as Aaron mentioned, use some silicon to join the two hlaves. Second, throw away the thin blue dust shield washer that comes with the tranny and make your own thicker one from one of those foam ear plugs. Lastly, if you do nothing else, do this: Use some more of the foam ear plug material to "plug" the outdrives. Cut a piece about 1/8" thick and put it in each the outdrives before inserting the dogbones. This does wonders for making your diff last longer and keeps most of the dirt out. Good Luck
Yes, what exactly is this blue dust seal? I wouldn't mind trying that, but I'm not sure what exactly your talking about.

[Crashbot2001]

Yes, the blue dust seal at the diff screw. Lemme see if I can find what I got and I'll post it here.

[Crashbot2001]

This Info was passed on to me by someone on another board. I take no credit for their research and results. I have tried this stuff however and it works great. This will take several posts, so please forgive me those not interested in the subject!


***** NT Diff Primer *****

* The most common diff problems:
The most common problem is running the diff too loose. The most overlooked cause of a crunchy diff is the thrust bearing. With most stock setups the thrust bearing on off-road vehicles will wear to the point that a rebuild is
needed twice as fast as the diff itself.

* Do You really need to rebuild?
One of the things most new off-road racers don¹t realize is that when we talk about rebuilding diffs it¹s primarily a performance thing. A gritty diff will usually continue to function for many hours of run-time before actually failing. It¹s just that a gritty diff doesn¹t function quite as well, so when racing your lap times will suffer a bit (especially on a slick tracks). That¹s why backyard bashers don¹t really need to rebuild their diff as often as those of us who race.

* Checking for a tight diff:
Most off-road diffs are designed to be run on the tight side, at least tight enough so they don¹t slip before the slipper clutch. Running a loose diff isn¹t a performance advantage even on slick tracks and can cause meltdown (especially on gas vehicles).

[Crashbot2001]

To check if the diff is tight enough on most off-road vehicles (ie. Losi & Associated) hold the right rear wheel & spur gear in place while turning the left wheel. It should be HARD to turn, and should not turn smoothly (it should catch & grab, or ³chirp & bark²). If it isn¹t difficult to turn tighten it up. Need to rebuild if it turns smoothly or can¹t be tightened enough.

* Checking for a gritty diff:
To check if a rebuild is needed due to use just make sure the brake is off, hold one back wheel in place and turn the other. If you can feel grit it¹s time for a rebuild before hitting the race track. If you¹re just running for fun you can hold off on the rebuild until you feel more grit & it starts ³popping² a little.

* Sealing the thrust bearing: This can be a problem on some diffs, especially the Losi diffs. That little blue foam washer they provide to keep dirt from migrating through the outdrive usually fails to do the job. I used to use the ³Foam Things² Losi sells to use on ball cups (which work better than the blue foam washer if saturated with grease). An even better solution is to cut your own foam washers out of ear plug foam. The outside diameter is about right and I found a pen insert (from a standard fountain pen) that cuts the proper interior diameter (I¹m sure you can find something round in the pit box or around the house that will cut it the right size). These washers need to be cut about three times as thick as Losi¹s washer, and will offer a little rolling resistance when initially installed. This resistance goes away the first time you run the vehicle (the heat ³sets² the
foam so it doesn¹t try to expand anymore).

[Crashbot2001]

We also cut a larger piece of ear plug foam to insert on the outside of the diff bolt (it sits inside the outdrive cup between the head of the bolt that runs through the diff and the end of the dogbone). This one is then saturated with the white EP grease and will expand to hold itself in place. It provides a nice seal & keeps dust and dirt from ever getting to the internal foam thrust washer. This foam washer/plug combination is one of the essentials to preventing a gritty thrust bearing.

* Ball wear:
If you are using stock chrome balls replace them when you rebuild. Stock balls are soft and designed to wear quickly (frequently they wear quicker than the washers, causing the need rebuild prematurely). They also wear very out-of-round compared to hard balls. In short, stock balls are designed be replaced at every rebuild.

Quality hard balls (ceramic & carbide) wear more evenly and last for several rebuilds. The best method to check the condition of hard balls is to rebuild with them and see if they still provide a smooth diff. If it¹s gritty keep in mind it¹s probably just the thrust balls that need to be replaced, as they take more punishment and wear faster than diff balls in most off-road vehicles.

[Crashbot2001]

* Cleaning:
When rebuilding make sure all the parts are clean. Dirty parts in the transmission can cause a gritty diff and/or premature wear. Losi plastic & composites aren¹t as durable as some, so I don¹t use motor cleaner, brake cleaner, or simple green here. For most parts (except things like balls & foam washers) I put them in a small glass jar with a 50/50 mixture of the
orange version of 409 cleaner and very hot water & shake it gently. Once over with a toothbrush can also be handy at this point.

To rinse well without losing parts down the drain I dump them in a large wire strainer and run them under full hot water. Then dry & check things like tranny cases, outdrives & other small parts that may still need a bit of nook & cranny cleaning. Q-Tips & denatured alcohol are the best tools to finish up.

* Better balls:
The primary change we made to solve the frequent diff rebuilding problem was using the grade 3 Silicon Nitride 3/32 diff balls. These are the best available currently & make for a super smooth diff, but the real improvement was gained by using them in the thrust bearing. Just need to reduce the number of balls accordingly (ie. For the Losi bearing use 7 balls where 8 of
the smaller stock thrust balls were used).

[Crashbot2001]

* Better lube:
The Losi white Teflon grease just doesn't cut it for the thrust bearing. Associated¹s black grease is a little better but still not great. I use white grease developed for extreme bearing applications from Dow here (info is below). I stick with the standard clear silicone grease from Kimbrough, AE or Losi for the diff. Tried the Dupont EP grease on the diff, the durability is about the same but you must be careful. The extreme pressure grease gives the diff a different feel (since the balls tend to slide more before rolling) and the diff must be run tighter than spec to perform one of it¹s functions (more on this below). Since there is no performance advantage that I can perceive over std. diff lube, I just use the Kimbrough clear on the diff. Can¹t tell much difference in the clear silicone grease between quality brands, I just use the Kimbrough because it comes in a nice
syringe.

* How much grease to use?
Most use WAY too much diff lube. I dab each side of each ball with no more grease than the size of the ball itself & put none on the rings. Using too much can cause the diff to slip prematurely and fail. The thrust bearing is a different animal. I pack it with grease, can¹t use too much there. Keeps it lubed and also helps keep the dirt out.

* Which thrust bearing grease to use?
I use Dow Corning ³#2 White EP (extreme pressure) Grease". This is an aluminum-complex-thickened grease that holds it¹s viscosity up to 400F & is thick enough to stop the grunge before it works it¹s way into the outdrive. This stuff is specifically designed for ball/thrust/sleeve bearings where extreme pressure is applied. Dupont and Bel Ray also make this grease, and
they work just as well. I like the Dow Corning version the best, as it has a little better viscosity and is bright white (the others are off-white).

[Crashbot2001]

* Sealed bearing grease:
Dow EP grease also works amazingly well on sealed bearings. When bearings are new they don¹t freely spin because the factory lubricates them with various sorts of thick grease. Once you use them a couple of times the balls throw most of the grease against the inside walls. This seals the bearing from the inside, then they will spin free.

Bearings can be restored to ³like new² when dirt does work it¹s way past the seals & grease. Just remove the seals, clean¹em up, re-grease with the EP & replace the seals. They will have the exact same ³stiff² feel & will re-seal internally and spin free once you use them. Lasts as long as brand new ones between cleanings, and even when they get gritty (ie. from running
in the mud) it is a very fine feeling grit and it¹s obvious the bearing is still getting lubrication. This is unlike any of the bearing oils I¹ve tried, including Royal Oil & Prolong. They make the bearings spin real nice before installation, but don¹t seal the bearing at all and don¹t last worth a darn once a little grit makes it¹s way past the seals.

Another advantage to using EP grease is it won¹t migrate out of the bearings like the thinner lubes (ie. Losi white Teflon grease & bearing oils are bad about this). The #2 EP (which is just thicker than #1 EP) stays put up to 400F, so you can also use it on clutch & tranny bearings without worrying about the lube migrating into the clutch or diff when things heat up.

[Crashbot2001]

* Other Losi gas truck mods:
Many have cured the NXT/GTX/NT diff meltdowns by taking a couple of extra steps: Replace the cone washers with the Losi RTR diff spring (the AE GT spring also works). Some also double up the nuts in the holder (or use a stainless steel mini-locknut). I haven¹t found either of these mods to be necessary, but several experienced racers here use them.

* Sanding diff washers:
One of the diff's functions is to transfer power. It does this better if the balls grip the rings (instead of sliding across the surface of the rings). This is why sanding the washers helps.

When sanding use fine paper, at least 600 grit wet/dry paper. Keep it wet. Some use oil, water works fine for me. Sand on a very flat hard surface. Among other things, a pane of glass works well. Sand new diff rings with light & fast strokes until the entire ring meets the paper and has a uniformly sanded surface. Since the rings are stamped the surface isn't
perfectly flat. They are close, and it shouldn't take much sanding before the entire washer has a uniformly sanded finish.

For diff rings you want a nice "cross hatch" pattern running counter to the motion of the ball track. I get this by sanding in a long elliptical motion (from one edge of the sheet to the other) & turning the washer a couple of times keeps things even. I use an edge-to-edge circular motion since it's faster & I can get some wrist action in there. Don¹t try to spin the washer
on the paper (or the paper on the washer) in order to get a sanding pattern that runs with the track the balls take (this defeats the purpose). Just need to rub it back & forth in some pattern that goes across the washer & turn them enough to get a uniform result.

[Crashbot2001]

* Sanding thrust washers:
When sanding thrust washers to reuse them the goal is different. You want the surface to be as smooth as possible. Do this by bearing down hard until almost all to the ring indent is removed (otherwise sanding them will take a needlessly long time). When the surface is almost smooth again (when the ring caused by use is almost gone) use light & fast strokes to "polish" the
ring. If you sand with light pressure & use the part of the sand paper that is worn this technique provides almost the same result as using 1200 grit paper.

* When sanding diff rings how long does the effect last?
Sanded rings last longer than I would have originally thought. When you do the typical test to check the diff for tightness (hold the spur gear and right side rear wheel still while rotating the driver's side rear wheel) you can also get an indication of how much of the sanding effect is left (how much traction the balls are getting against the rings). After sanding the rings and rebuilding with any of the balls I've tried the diff will "chirp and bark" more noticeably than if the rings weren't sanded. How long this improvement in traction lasts depends on the type of ball used.

It lasts the shortest amount of time (about 30 mins. runtime) with carbide balls. This improves substantially with both standard chrome balls and the best quality ceramic balls. The effect isn't quite as great as it is right after rebuilding, but there is a noticeable improvement in traction that lasts until the diff is rebuilt again.

Feel free to draw your own opinions as to why this might be the case. The best I can offer are a few assumptions. Carbide balls aren't all that round (the highest quality carbide ball available is grade 10, which means they can be ten millionths out of round). This may not seem like much, but carbide balls are also very hard & being this much out-of-round quickly wears a deep enough groove in the washers to pretty much negate the effect of sanding.

[Crashbot2001]

Both the standard balls and the higher quality ceramic balls reduce washer wear substantially. The standard balls that come in most kits are the same quality (grade 10) that the carbide are, but they are much softer. This softness is a disadvantage, in that the balls themselves will wear to the point that they cause a rebuild to be needed (after just a couple hours in most thrust bearings). It is also an advantage, in that soft chrome balls don't wear the rings to the point that sanding them does no good after the first few minutes.

Ceramic balls are harder than carbide and will wear the rings just as fast if they are the same grade. That's why it's important when upgrading to hard balls to use a lower grade (lower grades = rounder & higher quality). The grade 3 balls wear the washers the least, which is at least one of the reasons the sanding effect lasts. If you need a source for the best ceramic
balls available (for about the same price as carbide) email me.

* Understanding the role of the diff:
The diff needs to perform 2 functions. It¹s primary function is to transfer power to the axles. But it also must provide counter rotation to the axles. This is why silicone grease is usually best. It works well at keeping the rings from galling (wearing) while still offering good power transfer. Grease that contains Teflon, moly or other pressure additives are not designed for diff use. They can work as well, but their use means a much narrower margin of error. A diff that is at all loose is prone to melting
gears & bearing blowouts when using a ³slick² grease. Getting it too tight can also keep the diff from working as designed, cause stripped nuts or premature wear. As I mentioned above, with the thrust bearing the goal is different, because these balls do not transfer power. Anything that will aid in making it smoother is the way to go. Each ball has to transfer almost 2x
the pressure of the diff balls. The high pressure lubes that hold their viscosity at running temp are the ticket here.

The primary upgrades discussed above really help. Grade 3 balls are rounder, smoother & have higher abrasion resistance. And the larger balls are a lot easier on the thrust washers. Losi diffs that felt gritty after two hours runtime when built stock can go eight or more hours between rebuilds using these mods. Even then they don¹t pop & crunch like before. The bigger balls in the thrust & other improvements result in much finer feeling grit, and a diff that works pretty much the same after five minutes or five hours.


***** This is the end of the Off-Road Diff Primer *****

[Crashbot2001]

Whew.. That's where I got my info guys. I'm certain the gentleman who gave me that info would want me to share it with whoever was interested. Again, I have used larger balls in my thrust bearing and used the foam earplug pieces and those steps alone have greatly rpolonged my diff so far.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
Got Speed, In responce to That might be possible. But as you know Its rainning outside. May be a great day out in the desert to ride the Banshee. I will be there in the mornin. Ya never know if the truck is still in one piece by evening I may run it. Its been years since I'v run a race with RCs. Last time was at Fast Lanes in Suagus California It was a indoor track. My knees where shaking so bad I couldnt run a straight line with my Optima...HEHEHe It was a 4 wheel drive. heeheh
Got Speed do run a starter box?
I seen the new layout in the store. Looks alot bigger. They are adding another 6 ft east by what ever it is north & south. To bad they won t open it up till after the classic is over...
the fly wheel and clutch will work fine... thanks GS
cave

LOL, one peice, I hope for that too. :p Saugus? That is where Hot Rod hobbies is. They probably changed their name. Yea, I run a pink ofna box. Yea the old wall is pretty much gone(down to track level untill the rebuild of the track). They said it will be extended out to the new wall(or almost to the new wall). I havn't seen the drawing of the track yet but I can't wait. They are also supposed to be building a fence that will fence in the onroad and offroad coarse(so the onroad can be left up and so that bike guys won't ruin the track, keeps us out though too :( ). New tables, outlets are supposed to be added as well as they will be taking out the light in middle of the track so they don't have to work around it. I wonder how much input they are going to use since this is the cactus classic track. Id really like to see a banked turn and maybe a minefield instead of the whoops section. The cactus is the second week in march right? I'm going to bring my 1/8 buggy to run this time(since the track is going they won't mind I guess). I have a red and blue body with silver lighting on it. Ill probably be on corner of the wall on the east side.

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by Crashbot2001
Yes, the blue dust seal at the diff screw. Lemme see if I can find what I got and I'll post it here.

which message board or forum was this? thanks.

[rccarman5]

i have a big question about this diff. when it's out of my tranny, and i try and counter turnign it, it doesn't feel smooth, well, smooth but not so smooth. i just replaced the washers, rings, gear, flipped the thrust washers but not the thrust balls. i have a carbide(kit) diff balls. so i think their fine. but when i install everything and turn the tires, it's silky smooth. is this normal? also, i only put about 2-3 tanks on this rebuilt diff. do i need more run time to make it smoother outof the tranny. thanks.

[cave]

Got Speed
I have seen alot of 1/8-21 powered trucks & bugies out at SRS on Sundays. Seems like the track in its present state is too small for em. GS storms Ofnas of all types. .21 powered T Maxx machines. They all Haul A$$. I didnt see any one telling them to not run em.
Any how, Hot Rod hobbies eh. Many good times out there. There wher two brothers from a company called Race Prep. Man those guys could drive fast and keep it together. Still got one of there outlaw electric motors some where in the garage. See ya Saturday Im thinkin of getting the Ofna starter box. Where can I pick one up locally WITHOUT getting gouged? The red or pink one for .21s. Tower H?
cave
Got X? I do, Triple XXX_nt:D kinda catchy huh

[OutKast]

Hey, i was messing around with my car today)not running it, its winter here with about 2 feet of snow) and got to thinking i might need a diff. rebuild. I have never rebuilt it so i dont really know what to look for. when i turn my rear wheels, it is sort of gritty. is this an indication that i need a rebuild? or is it normal? and also, what parts would i need for a diff. rebuild? thanks again.

[Got Speed]

cave- Yea, probably alot of people go out on sunday to use it so they don't get chased away, not so many people out, and so that they don't have to stop when the racing starts. Anyway, Scott has never told me to leave or anything but there are a few people who get kinda irritated. Yea, I used to have a .21 maxx but sold it for the 1/8 buggy. I though about going to race out there with it but they said no .21s. SRS has the pink ofna box(at least they two weeks ago. I don't think it was an unreasonable price. It works well, it dosn't cost much more than the 1/10 boxs but has plenty of grunt and is still compact and adjustable.

"Got X? I do, Triple XXX_nt kinda catchy huh"

LOL!

OutKast- If it feels gritty you will need new diff rings(you can flip but it's best to replace them) $2, new diff balls $12, thrust bearing balls and rings $5, and either the monster diff hardware kit $5 or you can go to a hardware store and get some locknuts the size of the diff nut(sorry I don't know the size). They are about .05-.10 each.

[MikeWz]

Got Speed-That's a good saying. I like that. And about those diff balls. Doesn't Losi make better ones than the stock ones? Carbide diff balls or something like that? How much do those cost?:p

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by MikeWz
Got Speed-That's a good saying. I like that. And about those diff balls. Doesn't Losi make better ones than the stock ones? Carbide diff balls or something like that? How much do those cost?:p

Cave said that a few posts ago. LOL

They are all Tungsten Steel Carbide balls(Correct me if Im wrong).
I havn't really experimented with them but they all seem to do the job equally as well. MIP's, Losi's, and AE's are all made of the same thing.

MIP's Diff Balls $9
MIP2021

Losi's Diff Balls $11
LOSA6951

AE's Diff Balls $12
ASC6581

[MikeWz]

If they really do the Job equally as well I think I'll stick with MIP :D
Speaking of MIP, do you know where I can get their clutch set-up? I can't seem to find them for my X. Ebay only has T-maxx and GT ones listed :mad:

[RCRACER2471]

Thinkin about getting some street tires for my Losi. Has any tried the Losi T-90 On - Road tires? All im concerned about is how long do they last otherwise ill get a different brand...

[akprice]

is this right???

when i turn one of my back tires on my xxx-nt, the other back tire moves the same direction. the guy at my lhs said that as long as it moves in the opposite direction when i am holding the spur gear down then it is good. i used to have electric cars and they would all go the opposite direction without holding the spur gear down. i am confused. which is right? my truck only has 10-12 tanks through it. i shouldn't have to re-build my diff yet, right? someone please clarify this for me. thanks.

rcracer - i don't know, but i was also thinking about getting me some of those. what do the fronts look like? are they basically like the razor pins? i wonder if you could just get two sets of back tires and put them all the way around, because they are sweet. would that work?

[MikeWz]

RCRACER-I have roadhawgII tires from Pro-line. I love them. They're very durable and the grip like you can't believe. I'm thinking about getting some slicks from them too :)

AKRPICE-As I said in the other forum, don't worry about it. Mine does it too and I KNOW I don't need a diff re-build yet.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by akprice
is this right???

when i turn one of my back tires on my xxx-nt, the other back tire moves the same direction. the guy at my lhs said that as long as it moves in the opposite direction when i am holding the spur gear down then it is good. i used to have electric cars and they would all go the opposite direction without holding the spur gear down. i am confused. which is right? my truck only has 10-12 tanks through it. i shouldn't have to re-build my diff yet, right? someone please clarify this for me. thanks.

rcracer - i don't know, but i was also thinking about getting me some of those. what do the fronts look like? are they basically like the razor pins? i wonder if you could just get two sets of back tires and put them all the way around, because they are sweet. would that work?

If you are holding your spur gear from moving and turning one wheel the other should move in the oposite direction. The most important thing with the diff is too make sure it isn't too loose. Here is how: Hold the spur gear and one wheel. Now turn the other wheel forward. If the slipper shaft and plates turn and the diff dosn't slip at all you are good. If they don't or the diff slips some you need to tighten the diff some by turning the diff adjusting screw which is in one of the outdrives while holding the other side of the diff from moving. Turn it in 1/8 turn increments.
As for the tires yes you can take rears and put them on the fronts.


RCRACER2471- I don't know how long they wear(I havn't heard much about them or used them) but I have heard lots of good things about the Pro Line Road Rage tires.

[akprice]

thanks for your help guys.

can you get any of the tires from pro-line already pre-glued?

[MikeWz]

The do offer some tires pre-glued. I'm not sure about those. Check their web-site
www.prolineracing.com

[speedydave]

Originally posted by akprice
is this right???

when i turn one of my back tires on my xxx-nt, the other back tire moves the same direction. the guy at my lhs said that as long as it moves in the opposite direction when i am holding the spur gear down then it is good. i used to have electric cars and they would all go the opposite direction without holding the spur gear down. i am confused. which is right? my truck only has 10-12 tanks through it. i shouldn't have to re-build my diff yet, right? someone please clarify this for me. thanks.

rcracer - i don't know, but i was also thinking about getting me some of those. what do the fronts look like? are they basically like the razor pins? i wonder if you could just get two sets of back tires and put them all the way around, because they are sweet. would that work?

It could also be normal. My GT's tranny is free, so nothing binds, so the clutchbell spins when I spin one rear wheel, since the diff isn't loose as hell. The reason you didn't have to hold your spur with your electric was because electric motors have the magnets, which are holding the armature, pinion, spur, and eventually, diff gear in place, so you wouldn't need to hold the spur. However, this is nitro, you have a clutch, and the clutchbell has bearings. Check what everyone else said first, but it could be normal.

[akprice]

mike - thanks. i've checked their site, but i don't see any pre-glued for truck. they have some for buggies.

speedy - thanks for the input. it sounds like my diff is just fine. it's been a little bit of an adjustment switching from electric to nitro, but i'm getting there. there's definitely much more testosterone flowing through my veins with nitro. HELL YEAH!!!!

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by rccarman5
i have a big question about this diff. when it's out of my tranny, and i try and counter turnign it, it doesn't feel smooth, well, smooth but not so smooth. i just replaced the washers, rings, gear, flipped the thrust washers but not the thrust balls. i have a carbide(kit) diff balls. so i think their fine. but when i install everything and turn the tires, it's silky smooth. is this normal? also, i only put about 2-3 tanks on this rebuilt diff. do i need more run time to make it smoother outof the tranny. thanks.

any help here?

[losifreak2004]

rccarman - That is normal. Because your fingers have more leverage by turning the tires, the action feels smoother. The slight gritty-ness you feel when the diff is out of the truck is fine, and will get better once the diff breaks in.

Aaron Waldron

[rccarman5]

i was thinking it was no biggy but i fried my last diff from running it way too loose but never replaced my thrust bearing balls. i ran it for about 2-3 minutes loose. and could hear it slipping with that whine noise for a total of about 60 seconds i would say. so i guess my diff balls are fine. plus, i dont have a racing engine that tears this diff. it's a sport engine ( xtm .15) nothing compared with those picos.

and it does get smoother as i loosen it (of course less frictions) so i gues there is nothign to be worried about.

[BlueBlaster01]

New Design Tank...Whats the Part number?

[rccarman5]

go on ebay, u can get the tank with the graphite upper deck for cheap.

[cave]

BlueBlaster01
This was from Got Speed,
The part number is: A-9310

Look back at around page 218 + or - There are a couple of Ideas before you buy the tank. Its around 11-12 bucks
cave

[cave]

I got the Mugen .12 in Losi Its a blast! But now I need to know how I can tighten the fly wheel I havent seen the tool that does the trick? Anybody got a picture or link so I can pick one up? Or is there a trick that wont ruin the new motor?

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

Check pg #8 of the March '03 RCNitro for a pic of the OFNA p/n 10799 Flywheel Wrench.

I saw your related post on the Nitro Forum, I'll second the recommendation to check the collet most carefully for signs of slippage. No amount of tightening will be enough if the flywheel/collet/crank joint has slipped and is scored!!

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
I got the Mugen .12 in Losi Its a blast! But now I need to know how I can tighten the fly wheel I havent seen the tool that does the trick? Anybody got a picture or link so I can pick one up? Or is there a trick that wont ruin the new motor?

Do you have a short shaft or a standard shaft? If you don't want to buy the tool you can use a pair of channel lock pliers wrapped in a towl to grab the flywheel while you turn the nut with a glow plug wrench, socket, etc

From what you saw of the new design on the paper does it have tripples, minefields, or berms?

[MikeWz]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it has to be the standard crank. I don't think a Short fits in it. I know I've got the Mugen with the standard in there.
CAVE-check www.miponline.com for part numbers. I'm pretty sure they make a stiffer spring for the clutches

[Crashbot2001]

You can use a short or standard crank engine in the xxxnt. I have run both in mine. Depends on what clutch you use. i don;t know what comes in the kit or the drake, but the clutch and flywheel set-uo that came with the rtr will work on either. Just need to make sure it's nice and tight, especially oin the short shaft.

I use a large set of adjustable pliers to grip the flywheel when tightening the clutch nut down. If you don't want to mar your flywheel, just wrap with a rag first. You won't hurt your engine.

[akprice]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Thinkin about getting some street tires for my Losi. Has any tried the Losi T-90 On - Road tires? All im concerned about is how long do they last otherwise ill get a different brand...

rcracer - i just ordered a set of those t-90s. once i try them out i'll let you know how they stack up!

[MikeWz]

I have to check out these tires. A bunch of people here keep talking about them, but I've never seen or heard of them

[akprice]

mike - here is a pic of them. i circled the rears. pretty damn sweet looking huh? i'll let you guys know how they are. they will definitely be better than me tearing up my offroad tires.

[akprice]

mike - here is a pic of them. i circled the rears. pretty damn sweet looking huh? i'll let you guys know how they are. they will definitely be better than me tearing up my offroad tires.

[akprice]

DAMN DOUBLE POST!

[Trevor280z]

Just got some pictures of my truck:

http://photos.yahoo.com/trevor280z

[cave]

Got Speed I bought a piston locking tool. Seams to work ok. I'll go run it out side to make sure hehe.
Dont know how the new track wil rise just the layout. Looks more technical.Straight away is away from the stands by the north wall. lots of twist and turns There must be some killer jumps and maybe a mine field or two. Looks like there is more things goin on inside the middle... Ya think with all the rain there gunna race tomarro? will ya be there ? later
MikeWz
I' ll pick up one of the mip clutches later. like tomarro. They have a couple here at hobbie town.
I piked up the new style tank. I must of cut too much off the old down presure tube. Live and learn.
cave:D

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by akprice
mike - here is a pic of them. i circled the rears. pretty damn sweet looking huh? i'll let you guys know how they are. they will definitely be better than me tearing up my offroad tires.

Thanx man! Id really like to know how they work. They seem pretty good. Need some on road tires.

BTW Can i get replacement screws for my car at Towerhobbies. I ordering stuff from there soon and want to get everything at the same place...

Thanx :D

[winning edge designs]

akprice, have you seen the line of pre-glued tires from TeamLosi? They have a bunch that should cover about every style of track.


I have a couple sets of the TeamLosi T-90's..they rock for testing, etc. Just be carefull if you run your truck on-road. Some racers get the urge to try and lock the brakes up at 35mph, this eventually will overheat the brakes and melt the tranny case, where the set screws thread in!...Only adjust the brakes to stop properly on an off-road track, or loose(Normal) surface as it is designed. Asphalt provides WAY more traction!


Cave, be carefull with the piston locking tool. Use it only to snug the flywheel nut, then hold the flywheel with channel locks or similar to tighten fully......I have seen many bent connecting rods due to misuse of the "piston locking tool". It is not meant to provide 20 foot pounds or so of torque, or rather the Rod is not!......Jim

[cave]

Thanks Jim. I figured as much. I just needed that little bit of snug to be able stop the flywheel from slipping. Then tighten it up as usual.
Thanks again W.E.D.
cave

[Got Speed]

I'm going to be there whether it rains or not. Have you heard about the weather? I sure hope they race. I really need a new reciever pack. I ran my 1/8 scale today and only got 5mins. on the pack before it was dead!:eek: Do you know if SRS has any NiMh packs?(I would think so but Im not sure).

[cave]

I'm sure they have any thing you need. They always have all the parts I need. Cha Ching...
Stopped by on my way home today. Its a mud bog there. There is alot of new dirt they brought in and its real mushee on the side where SRS tore down the old wall.
G S you may want to bring a boat too. hehehehe
This Mugen is torqee as all heck. At half throttle it wants to leap. reacts like a cat. Cant wait till I totally break it in.
You think they will race if its a mud pit? I forgot to get some Nitro fuel. Hope they open early there.
I was there in the rain 2 weeks ago It was cool. That mud clay is tough to get off my shoes. later

W.E.D. does Losi have a tire thats as good as prolines boetie's soft compound for the rear. And what tire are good for the front. I got the boeties as this is what all the racers are using at the track.
cave

[BlueBlaster01]

Originally posted by rccarman5
go on ebay, u can get the tank with the graphite upper deck for cheap.

Your SURE that the auctions ARE FOR THE NEW STYLE TANK?

I need a new tank anyways, I'd like the new design...I'm tired of the fuel coming out of my pressure tube into the pipe...its annoying.:p

[rccarman5]

if it's on the drake. it's a new tank. the pressur elines are in the gas tank, not on the lid. they dont make them on the lid. that would be hard to refill, not enough pressure for the engien. when u lift the lid for refills, whil ehte engine is running.

[cave]

Sorry to bring this up AGAIN. The tank that I have in the xxx-nt was the one with the pressure line on the tank itself. The new one that I just bought is the tank with the pressure line on the cap. I still have the Original tank in the truck. I cut the tube inside the tank as others in this forum suggested. Fuel still forces itself out of the pipe. Now, I stopped it with a 1/2" wooden dowel on the fly wheel. I pinched the fuel line. Still fuel comes out of the pipe. No big deal I'm ok with all that.I got this tank to see if this will save me alittle money buying fuel. The fuel dont just come out for a moment. It siphons out till the tank is dry. This for is a waste of perfectly good Nitro fuel.SO, I bought the new design tank.
Many Many others on a couple of other forums on this site have NO problems what so ever with the pressure fitting in the tank. Many of the locals have given me great advice. I cut hte line inside the tank and it still has alot of force.
"I think the most simple solution to my problem might be to run the car out of nitro". Again I apologize for the long post

Got X, I got XXX, NT
cave:D

[cave]

Sorry to bring this up AGAIN. The tank that I have in the xxx-nt was the one with the pressure line on the tank itself. The new one that I just bought is the tank with the pressure line on the cap. I still have the Original tank in the truck. I cut the tube inside the tank as others in this forum suggested. Fuel still forces itself out of the pipe. Now, I stopped it with a 1/2" wooden dowel on the fly wheel. I pinched the fuel line. Still fuel comes out of the pipe. No big deal I'm ok with all that.I got this tank to see if this will save me alittle money buying fuel. The fuel dont just come out for a moment. It siphons out till the tank is dry. This for is a waste of perfectly good Nitro fuel.SO, I bought the new design tank.
Many Many others on a couple of other forums on this site have NO problems what so ever with the pressure fitting in the tank. Many of the locals have given me great advice. I cut hte line inside the tank and it still has alot of force.
"I think the most simple solution to my problem might be to run the car out of nitro". Again I apologize for the long post

Got X, I got XXX, NT
cave:D
this is the new one i got

[cave]

Oops wrong tab. Darn fingers got carried away:D

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
I'm sure they have any thing you need. They always have all the parts I need. Cha Ching...
Stopped by on my way home today. Its a mud bog there. There is alot of new dirt they brought in and its real mushee on the side where SRS tore down the old wall.
G S you may want to bring a boat too. hehehehe
This Mugen is torqee as all heck. At half throttle it wants to leap. reacts like a cat. Cant wait till I totally break it in.
You think they will race if its a mud pit? I forgot to get some Nitro fuel. Hope they open early there.
I was there in the rain 2 weeks ago It was cool. That mud clay is tough to get off my shoes. later

W.E.D. does Losi have a tire thats as good as prolines boetie's soft compound for the rear. And what tire are good for the front. I got the boeties as this is what all the racers are using at the track.
cave

LOL, I hope there isn't puddles. Id still race if there arn't any puddles. I hope they still race.:) Im going to be there whether they race or not, because I want to run my buggy and help build the track. Last time they built the track they said they would need more dirt for next time because they had to dig out some of the marshal areas. lol.

Losi's Red compound is close to Pro Line's M3 compound. Usually dry tracks prefer Pro Line and wet tracks like Losi tires better. SRS is considered a dry track.

[cave]

Wus up GS
Woke up with alittle cold. Im gunna finish my break in this morn. Use what little gas Ihave left can on that. I'll be out there with my black beenee. Even if I dont run my truck cause of the puddles.

The losi tires didnt hold on the turns or the take off. truck did great doughnuts:D
Hope to meet ya later.
cave

[MikeWz]

AKPRICE-Thanks! Those do look pretty crazy. I don't know though. Have you ever seen the road hawgs? They look really cool too. What they really should do is make some of those V-Rage tires for a truck :)

CAVE-Do you think you could pick me up one those those clutches and I'll ship the $$$ on over to you? That would be great.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
Wus up GS
Woke up with alittle cold. Im gunna finish my break in this morn. Use what little gas Ihave left can on that. I'll be out there with my black beenee. Even if I dont run my truck cause of the puddles.

The losi tires didnt hold on the turns or the take off. truck did great doughnuts:D
Hope to meet ya later.
cave

Ok, I'll be out there around 12:30ish. See ya there! :)

[Got Speed]

Someone asked about where you can buy nuts and bolts at. Here is a great place to buy them. www.fastener-express.com
They have them in sizes that are common to RC and anodized in all different colors. What is best is you can buy quantitys as small as 25

[MikeWz]

That's pretty nice. I'll have to get some
Hey GS, where do you and Cave race?

[cave]

Wus up MikeWz
I myself havnt raced yet. There is an offroad and on road (parking area) In Scottsdale AZ. There is another place in Glendale AZ that has a race track also. After the races tonight there going to change the track. Kinda wet here rained off and on last night. How about you? I'll get pics and post em if its cool with you all.
cave

[AreCee]

Originally posted by rccarman5
if it's on the drake. it's a new tank. the pressur elines are in the gas tank, not on the lid. they dont make them on the lid. that would be hard to refill, not enough pressure for the engien. when u lift the lid for refills, whil ehte engine is running.

The pressure tap in the fuel tank lid is a very effective way to pressurize the tank. You'll see that method used on almost all on-road cars and 1/8 scale buggies. Losi seems to like the submerged pressure line for some reason.

Regardless of where the pressure feed is in the tank you will lose the pressure when the fill cap is opened. The engine will continue to run unless it is mistuned and running very lean. You will have positive pressure in the tank with the tap in the lid or on the pipe at the bottom, it doesn't matter. With the tap in the lid you eliminate fuel foaming and forcing fuel through the pressure line into the pipe due to higher pressure in the tank and the engine is off and not pulling fuel into the carb.

To avoid a lot of fuel going into the pipe just open the tank lid to release the pressure when you kill the engine or allow it to run dry.

[MikeWz]

CAVE-I'm out in NY. I'm on Long Island. I've been racing for the past few years. Can't right now though, the out-door track is closed. Too cold and too much snow :( Do you think you'd be able to pick up one of those MIP clutches for me?
Arecee-When it comes to fuel in the exhaust. You can plug the tip up with a piece of paper towl when your not running. This soaks up all the extra

[langywangy]

well we're bak on the same question again, il say the same thing...again:
cut the pressure pipe inside the tank short and the problem is solved. lets see if im ignored again....i know it sounds like a stpid suggestion but i know what im talking about, if this is a problem for you try getting a one way pressure valve this wil obviously stop it too.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by MikeWz
That's pretty nice. I'll have to get some
Hey GS, where do you and Cave race?

Yea, the red stuff is hard to find. lol :p I can live without but it's nice I finally found some in the right sizes. You get more nuts and bolts for less money than a screw set like Trinity's.

We race at SRS(scottsdale RC speedway). They hold the anual Cactus Classic(Electric National Race). It's a pretty nice average sized track. Maybe I should post some pics of my car on the track and all if I can get them today.

[winning edge designs]

Cave, The TeamLosi step-pins in Red compound will work on any track Bowties work on. The Step-pins will have more side bite and a little less forward bite if it's wet may actually be better and usually are.
As far as the TeamLosi vs. Proline tires go, here's my opinion from my testing......Wet track, usually TeamLosi Red. Sandy(wet or dry) usually Proline M3, Blue groove track, usually TeamLosi Red or silver. (note: Either may work on a slightly grooved tack, but the more grooved the track is the bigger the benifit of using TeamLosi tires will be).

There are also good screws at good prices thru FenderBender dot com. He has some on E bay and a website as well. I got an enormous amount of screws for about $20 for my 1/8th buggy!....ttyl, Jim

[MikeWz]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Yea, the red stuff is hard to find. lol :p I can live without but it's nice I finally found some in the right sizes. You get more nuts and bolts for less money than a screw set like Trinity's.

I know what your saying. Red is quite the hard color to find. I'm trying to pimp out my car in all of Franci's red stuff. Kinda hard though cause alot of his red is for electric only. I've already get all the red plastic and I'm looking for some red axles too. Red screws and nuts would be nice. I want Dynamite to custom anoidze me a Red motor mount instead of their blue one but I doubt they'll do it.
:(

[rccarman5]

cave, for ur fuel commin out of ur pipe. how long is ur pressure line? at least a foot? it's not good to have it too short. respond back.

[cave]

rccarman5
The pressure line is apx 11 inches. I got the rtr Ready To Rebuild hehehe.
rccarman5 I dont always have this problem. When I was tunnin the Mugen .12 I shut down the motor with the dowel to the flywheel method. Out came the fuel. I bought the losi tank with the pressure fitting on the tank after I cut the tube inside the tank.
langywangy I tryed your suggestion and it still flowed freely. thanks anyways.

W.E.D.
Thanks for the info. I'll be needing a new set real soon.
Got x? I do XXX,nt
cave

[AreCee]

Originally posted by MikeWz
Arecee-When it comes to fuel in the exhaust. You can plug the tip up with a piece of paper towl when your not running. This soaks up all the extra

I don't have this problem, just addressing someone that was a bit confused about the fuel tank pressurization.

[rccarman5]

cave, thats funny, sometimes when i'm holding my car under the chassis, my finger hits the flywheel by accident at idle and it shuts the enigen off. it takes very little to stop those engines at idle.

[dkj-M3]

just don't use your finger when the engines reving, it burns for days.:eek:

[PJCruz]

Well, the season is several races in.. but today was my first race. I went to a Drake modified setup ( Dirt setup with green front springs, 2 deg rear hubs, and all shocks on inner hole on arm). This apparently is the "hot setup" here in Houston.. and sure enough when I added the 2 deg hubs, green fronts, inner hole, and Step Pins for the soil. BAM!!! Nearly 100% dialed!! I'm getting better each time out (my luck, my driving isn't bad.. actually it's pretty good). Here's my race summary:

Heat 1: truck stalled just before the start.. got er fired back up and on lap 1.. a ball cup "strips" out from the upper link in the rear. Heat over... Officially: DNS

Heat 2: no "snow monkeys" or gremlins this time.. just all out Picco and Losi power.
Officially 3rd: 10 laps in 5:11.14

A Main: Ok, so there were ONLY 5 1/10 scale drivers today ;-) but a 15 min main was a challenge for sure. I have only previously been in B mains and those were 5 min. I have a hard time getting the Picco to turn over... and finally do so.. but by the time I'm out there they are calling drivers in to top off for the start of the main.. so no "warm up." The tone sounds and my truck takes off IN REVERSE!!!! Huh??? We kill it and bring her back and restart it.. and get it out there... and I start gaining and work my way up to third. At about my 13th lap or so.. I pop a ball cup in the rear... we bring her in.. finally get it back on.. and restarted and out again. I've lost some time meanwhile, but I managed to crawl back up to fourth.
Officially: 20 laps in 15:26.93 (4th overall).

I just missed a plaque/trophy by 3 laps. The "reverse" and the ball cup cost me enough time.. that with the times I was getting when I was on the track.. I DEFINTELY have won 3rd.. 2nd I'm not sure..... Oh well... I had a great time.

[PJCruz]

Is there a chart or something that shows the "rates" for the various Losi springs? I have several and no longer have the package with them listed.

I know red is 2.5, and green is 3.7.. how about Orange, pink and the other NT springs. Is there a chart for buggy springs too? (more tuning options).

Thanks
Peter

[chickenhawk]

http://www.score-racing.org/index2.html Go to downloads. Then go to rc charts.

[Nitroooo]

Hey everyone, cave i agree with you about the fuel. I cut it off and as long as the tank is partially full it will still push out. But I have another question. I was tuning my carb today, it's a rotary and noticed that it will pull in and out. When it does this it will change the way it idles and everything. When I push in to turn the low adjustment it will idle way up. Is this supposed to do that?

Thanks Steve

[cave]

Nitroooo
Thanks bro. I thought My Losi was the only one out there that did that. Its all Good now. I got the Mugen and a starter box. It seems to be ok now. I only got 3 tanks of fuel through it tho. T wonder if its a pull start thing. langywangy's Idea probable works great. It just didnt work for my Losi. I'll shut up about it now:D

MikeWz
I have run 3 tanks of fuel through the Mugen at less than full throttle. I tryed this mornning to lean it out to get some more speed top end. It kinda hesitated. I know there is a difference in temperature from Long Island NY to Mesa AZ. Can you tell me how many turns out yours is top & bottom. Some body else musta been reading my post to ya. When I got to HT they had sold all 4 MIP clutch kits. Dang it. This stock seems fine for now. Killer bottom end. Hows L I

Got Speed
I was there early and they had a fence up got the starter box from them and all the acc. My cold got worse as the day went on. I did however go back at around four to help out but you all looked real busy. I did'nt want to get in the way or get anyone else sick. I was the in the Wht Tahoe. Black beenee, penelton jacket.
G S Where is that Glendale track. SRS is closed for the whole month.
cave
I really got to practice this typing deal he he he

[MikeWz]

CAVE-I'm actually not sure what mines at right now, I don't want to close it to find out, cause it's dialed in pefectly right now. It's pretty chilly so as it warms up I'm going to have to slowly loosen up the high speed. Here's a good way to tune your engine:
1.)Set your needle at what the factory wants you to break in on and tighten it 1/4turn
2.)Make a straight run till you hit top speed, bring the car in and turn it at 1hr increment. Do this untill there is no difference or you start getting slower speeds
3.)Than and only Than adjust the low speed needle. This will stop the hesitation. Only adjust the low speed needle after the high speed, or you'll wind up having to change it.
L.I. Is very wet. Lot's of rain and snow lately. Can't wait to hit up college. I'm probably going up to mass. After 4 years I want to go to seminary in Base Switerzland (the girl I like is moving there so that makes me want to go there even more than before :D )

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
Nitroooo
Thanks bro. I thought My Losi was the only one out there that did that. Its all Good now. I got the Mugen and a starter box. It seems to be ok now. I only got 3 tanks of fuel through it tho. T wonder if its a pull start thing. langywangy's Idea probable works great. It just didnt work for my Losi. I'll shut up about it now:D

MikeWz
I have run 3 tanks of fuel through the Mugen at less than full throttle. I tryed this mornning to lean it out to get some more speed top end. It kinda hesitated. I know there is a difference in temperature from Long Island NY to Mesa AZ. Can you tell me how many turns out yours is top & bottom. Some body else musta been reading my post to ya. When I got to HT they had sold all 4 MIP clutch kits. Dang it. This stock seems fine for now. Killer bottom end. Hows L I

Got Speed
I was there early and they had a fence up got the starter box from them and all the acc. My cold got worse as the day went on. I did however go back at around four to help out but you all looked real busy. I did'nt want to get in the way or get anyone else sick. I was the in the Wht Tahoe. Black beenee, penelton jacket.
G S Where is that Glendale track. SRS is closed for the whole month.
cave
I really got to practice this typing deal he he he

I don't think I saw you. I didn't really notice the color of truck or anything but where you with some other guys with a loud radio? The new track is awesome. It seems they are switching back and forth from the high speed small jumps type of track to the low speed big jumps. Well this time we have a pretty technical track with some awesome jumps. Remember where that old tripple was? Well there is another one now that faces west. Well as soon as you come off it you fly into a big banked turn with fingers on the inside line. It's great. They will be racing on tuesday(if the track is hard enough and weather permits, I doubt it) and thursday. I will be going as soon as they race on it again(tuesday or thursday). I can't wait, Ive completely stripped down my truck and cleaned it and replaced just about everything worn. Im going to get out there several hours early and set it up for the new track. Will you be out there. The other track is at 35th ave. and osborn. The offroad track is really small but they have a dirt oval, asphalt oval and small onroad course. Hope to see you out there.

[losimaniac87]

http://216.229.90.210/images/xxx-nt.jpg

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

nitroooo-Is your engine by chance the Mach 15??

[cave]

losimaniac87
Nice , Real nice.
cave
You definatly GOT X. XXX-nt

[cave]

MikeWz Thats a long way from home. Yea I kinda figured it out bro. I was out in the desert practicing how to drive. Fun Fun Fun...

Got Speed
Are they going to open up the track (SRS) Thursday? For racing only? Ya think they'll have a novice class. Thursdays a work night. :D If I'm better by then I'll be there. Its on the way home.
Hey does anyone here in Arzona do porting for these motors?
cave

[akprice]

well i finally got some pics of my xxx-nt for everyone. the custom painted body was done by jim myers of winning edge designs. thanks again jim, it turned out awesome!

i have a question and concern about after run oil. i have been putting aro in my truck if it looks like i'm not going to run it again for a few days. but it seems like everytime i do this, when i go out to run it again, i can't get the damn thing started. this happened to me yesterday and i must have pulled that damn cord 2000 times. so two blisters later, it never started. i am assuming that it is hydrolocked from the oil. i will take the plug out and unflood it, and it seems that most of it is oil. what can i do to get it started? and what are some of you guys' thoughts on aro? i know it's good for the engine, but i'm going to stop using it, unless i put the truck up for more than a month or so.

[akprice]

here is the backend. look at the a$$ on this truck!

[PJCruz]

Guys, I am high on my NT again (and finally started breaking in my OS for my Maxx too).

I was wondering if any of you have had any success with any of the aftermarket hop-ups for the XXX-NT? I know Trinity has a few items that are aluminum and of course Losi has the hard-anod'd stuff. I was MAINLY curious about the "lightweight" tranmission shaft and other "drivetrain" improvements. I want to say I have heard people say these shafts strip out more than the stock one.

Also, what other hop-ups are there? I may look at the Losi brake DE clips (to replace the plastic stock pieces).. and MAYBE some graphite too (I have spare set of F arms that are graphite, but nothing else). My truck seems to be "rear" heavy since I kept landing on my ARSE on the big jumps.. and figure it's normal.. need to lay off the throttle on the jumps I guess.

I guess I'm looking for "durability" hop-ups. Also, have any of you figured out a way to keep e-clips from coming loose on the arms/hinge pins?

Akprice, sweet looking ride. For the hydrolock... continue as you are doing... (good habit), just loosen the glow plug (or remove it) and pull the pull starter a few times.. then replace the plug and try to start it. My picco floods VERY EASILY.. and basically first start of the day I have to remove the plug, cover the head with a rag.. and crank it over on the box... it sprays fuel out the hole.. then replace and put the charger on it.. BAM!!!

Thanks

[Got Speed]

cave- If weather permits they will. They will be open several hours before the race(usually around noon). Between the time they open and the time the race starts(at 7pm) you can practice. If you were to race it wouldn't be to bad since all the new drivers have to adapt to the new track again. They will have a novice class if there are enough drivers that want one. It is more likely to have a novice on the first day of a new track because more people come. Last time the new track opened there were more people there on tuesday than on Saturdays. We had a 10 entry novice class and about 20+ entry sportsman/expert class. There isn't anyone that I have heard of that port engines in AZ. Ported engines won't get you as long a run time. If you arn't completly topped off before the race you may run out of gas or have to refuel. This track is better than the last 3. I give it an A, lol. :p

Has anyone used the RRP aluminum top shaft? Im going to get another top shaft since mine is bent:eek: (how I don't know). Id like to get the aluminum one because it is lightweight. Does it have a tendency to wear faster than the steel ones or strip out or any other bad qualities compared to the steel one?

Thanks

[dkj-M3]

I just bought the losi light weight slipper shaft, & i have the light weight slipper plates. I have a spare tranny so one will be stock & the other will have the light weight stuff. They should be changing the track next week, so next practice is when i'll do a side by side comparison. Or a little R&D. I'll post the results next week.

I know they make a titanium brake shaft, but does any one know which is lighter the stock steel or the titanium one?

[MikeWz]

AKPrice-When putting in after run engine oil, take out your glow plug and put 3 drops on the top of they piston head. Keep the glow plug out, pull on the starter and tilt the car around a bit to spread it all around the piston/sleeve. This will keep it lubed, save it from water and make it easy to start on every pull.

Where can I get the aluminum shafter and slipper plates? I saw them on Losi's web-site but I can't find them on the internet

[akprice]

thanks mike and pj for the advice. i guess i will continue to use it but sparingly. i have been putting about 5 or 6 drops down into the piston and also in the carb. i think i will go to just 3 drops in the piston and not put any in the carb. it's just been too hard to start when i do that. do you guys put aro in after every time you run it, or just if you are going to let it sit for a long time?

[Allen T]

Which glow plugs are best for the Mach 15? I couldn't find anything in the online manual....

Thanks!

Allen T

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
I just bought the losi light weight slipper shaft, & i have the light weight slipper plates. I have a spare tranny so one will be stock & the other will have the light weight stuff. They should be changing the track next week, so next practice is when i'll do a side by side comparison. Or a little R&D. I'll post the results next week.

I know they make a titanium brake shaft, but does any one know which is lighter the stock steel or the titanium one?

Does it feel or look like it might not last? Usually titanium is half the weight of steel and 3 times as strong. At least for the grades they most commonly use in RC.

[MikeWz]

AKPrice-Yes, put in three drops after ever time you run the engine, even if you plan on running it a little later in the day. As the engine cools it attracts moisture. The AOE holds the moisture and as you start the car is expended through the exhaust port, avoiding any damage to the engine

[cave]

Got Speed
I'm taking the day off today. That would be cool to go out there and race. I'l see how work goes tomarro. Even if I dont race I will stop by and check it out. It looked real rough with all the loose stuff. cant wait to see the finished track. I dont think I'll need any porting this Motor is breakin in great. I got 6 tanks though it. and Im starting to open it up.It seams to run alittle hot. around 240. Is this ok. It was running aroun 250 at the same settings. Breaking in I guess.
cave

[MikeWz]

240 is just fine. Just don't get it much higher than that. If it starts running a little warmer than richen it up a bit. You probably wont' find anybody willing to port your engine at this point. Most pro's like to do it before the engine is ever run, and only up to about 2-3 tanks. You don't really need to port it anyhow, it's really powerful as is. And just let me know when that LHS gets in some more of those Clutches. My LHS doesn't carry MIP parts for some reason :mad:

[akprice]

well i got her started up at lunchtime. i don't think it was the aro after all. i noticed that fuel was leaking out of somewhere and figured out that my cooling head wasn't on tight and was letting fuel leak out from below it. tightened it and she started right up. i have another question though...i've been adjusting the braking on it lately and i wanted some more braking, but now i've noticed that it is riding the brake when driving. i will go wot and then let off and the car significantly slows down without me applying the brake. so how do i get good decent braking but without the car riding the brake when i let off the gas? or is that normal? i just don't want to wear out the brakes too soon. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

[cave]

Allen T
thy this outglow plugs from Tower Hobby (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCB29&P=0) good luck. Germany huh. arrrrrrr J/k
cave
MikeWz
That sucks Mike no else in your area sell em? Man I got 3 hoby towns ant two others like franks hobbies and hobby shack. One down south in tucson too. All but the last 3 got some of my money:D I think my radio shack IR temp deal may be way off Im gunna test it today with a cup of hot water. Water didnt even evaporate when I tested it that way. It just puddled...
cave

[banditwing]

Cave- I have the Radio Shack IR temp gun too. So far with the few times I've used it it seems to be accurate compared to the drop of water test. Although this isnt much proof, I've heard of people doing tests and finding that the radio shack gun is only a few degrees off (or none at all) compared to a raytek.

You probably already know this but the place that you take the temperature of the engine also greatly affects the reading. Take the temp by the glow plug area.

ARGGGG... I really need an engine. I think I'm going to go for the tried and true os cvr.


-Banditwing

[kvn xxx-nt]

Originally posted by akprice
i've been adjusting the braking on it lately and i wanted some more braking, but now i've noticed that it is riding the brake when driving. i will go wot and then let off and the car significantly slows down without me applying the brake. so how do i get good decent braking but without the car riding the brake when i let off the gas? or is that normal? i just don't want to wear out the brakes too soon. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.
This is called drag brake when you left off