Team Losi XXXNT forum v5.0

[MikeWz]

A temp gun is a good investment. MIP makes a good temp guage, you should check it out. www.miponline.com

[PJCruz]

Guys, I don't have tons of free time, BUT I came across a killer IDEA for us off-road racers. A computer program DEDICATED to keeping you 100% organized and prepared for the race! I am a VERY BEGINNING programmer (visual basic), and have actually created a program several years ago for a football game for an online league I was in. ANyways, the program was simple and worked very well. I have some ideas and will post them here now.. if any of you can think of more ideas.. please post them.

Mind you, I'm a beginning programmer.. so it's not going to be a complex program... but I'll try =)

Program features (planned)
* import a database of all parts in the kit
* race/log history (place, date, finish, lap times, etc)
* lap average (sortable by race, and per track)
* parts inventory (great for me since I have TONS of spare parts now)
* setup info (possible facsimile of Losi setup sheet with point and click adjustments.. and then printed out)
* repairs summary with a part requisition list, cost (and adjust part inventory and generate a shopping list)
* export certain info to html to post on a webpage
* support for the XXX_NT for now.. if it works out.. I may add T-Maxx, and GT.... possibly electrics too.
* Race Prep Print (prints out checklist of TODO items to get ready for the race, a PACKING checklist so we don't forget our starter box, and print out setup sheets)
* damage summary (identify "weak" areas of the truck and see what needs to most replacing,etc (handy to stock up on THOSE parts).

Thanks guys

Peter

PS: I'm no Bill Gates, but if this util works out.. I'll give it away to you guys for $0, and will charge non-forum drivers for it... ESP GT drivers (they pay DOUBLE ;-)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by MikeWz
A temp gun is a good investment. MIP makes a good temp guage, you should check it out. www.miponline.com

That is what I use and it is only a few degrees off of the Raytechs. Or if you like the blue better traxxas makes exact same thing in blue(it even says it's made by MIP on the back)

[RCRACER2471]

Hey guys, got another question for you. I finally got my engine for my truck. The O.S. .12 CV-RX. When trying to mount it on the car it doesnt fit or line up. Did i do something wrong or is there something missing....Thanx

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Hey guys, got another question for you. I finally got my engine for my truck. The O.S. .12 CV-RX. When trying to mount it on the car it doesnt fit or line up. Did i do something wrong or is there something missing....Thanx

If it is for a drake it won't fit. I have the non-pull version in mine and it fits just fine. Check to make sure you have it in the right engine mount holes.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Hey guys, got another question for you. I finally got my engine for my truck. The O.S. .12 CV-RX. When trying to mount it on the car it doesnt fit or line up. Did i do something wrong or is there something missing....Thanx

Can you be a bit more specific about which truck you're putting that engine in and where is it not fitting? You have three scenarios to choose from.

1) It should be a direct fit with no problems in a RTR.

2) It should fit with no problems in a regular NT kit as long as you use the motor mount spacers that are provided in the kit as shown in the manual.

3) It will not fit so well into the Drake Edition unless you buy the additional motor mount spacers to increase the clearance between the pull start and the chassis. You will need to buy a new side exhaust manifold which will clear the pull start.

[RCRACER2471]

Its not the Drake just the plain old Losi. But it doesnt seem even close to fitting. Is part of the engine supossed to hang off or something. Thats the only way it works with the mountings in the correct place....

[winning edge designs]

Man this thread gets alot of traffic...gotta love it!

Cave, as gotspeed posted, try and stay under 250-260. I only push things that far when competition is tuff and the track can handle it. It also helps with gas mileage, but if anything goes wrong, your motor can be toasted going that close. For example, losing fuel tank pressure, cut in a fuel line, air leak in the engine. All can happen during a race and that's the reason we leave a cushion, trying to stay between 200 and 230.....usually, ;).


akprice, the best way to tell when your clutch "engages" or "hits" is by how the engine sounds coming out of turns on a high bite track. If the carb is set well, temps are normal, and you punch it, but the engine goes, brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr,waaaaaaahhh, too much clutch. It should go, Wahhhhhhhh, right away out of the turn. For looser tracks, an early clutch will be easier to drive, but for high bite, it will mean slower lap times and more engine heat.

As far as trailing vs leading, if you go to a slippery track a quick way to change clutch engagement is by flipping the shoes to leading edge. This way you don't modify them at all, but they will "hit" much earlier, when you go back to your regular track, flip them back.

dgrobe2112, it sounds like your high end is rich. When i've run O.S. engines in the past I usually end up under two turns on the high needle. In fact my last Cv-R liked 1 and 1/2!......To be safe, try going 1/4 turn richer(counterclockwise), if the problem worsens, go 1/2 turn leaner(clockwise) and try again.....hope this helps, Jim

[cave]

Thanks everyone .
I caved hehe and took the XXX-NT to the hobby shop. Theres a guy there who tunes for a small fee.
Seems I had a torn coupling between the pipe and the header. I didnt even notice it.
Seems this made it run lean no matter what I did. I put the new one on and he did his magic.
I really like how this motor hits. It runs hard at around 225° to 235°. He got it to around 245° in the parking lot wide open gave it alittle more juice and the tempature came right down.

Got Speed, if there racing Saturday I be there. I'll call and ask. I 'll hope for a novice class. If not I'll be there for the next one.

Things are real good when things go right.:D
cave

[cave]

RCRACER2471
When I replaced the mach motor in my ready to rebiuld with the Mugen I put the motor mounts in upside down. I couldnt get the bottom hex screws to thread. Good thing I checked it out before forcing it. it seemed like the holes didnt match up. After I flipped the motor mounts. It was fine good luck.
cave
oops didnt see your post on how it sits in the losi.
Never mind
cave

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Its not the Drake just the plain old Losi. But it doesnt seem even close to fitting. Is part of the engine supossed to hang off or something. Thats the only way it works with the mountings in the correct place....

Is a regular threaded crankshaft? Hopefully you didn't get a pilot shaft.

[RCRACER2471]

Yes it threaded crankshaft but it doesnt seem to fit. You leave the drive hub on the engine right?? Someone i know ive seen before on this thread has an O.S CV-RX....Can someone help me.....:rolleyes:

[pooldoc101]

RC Racer- if you could post a pic it would help alot, these guys really know what their talking about! Better than a hobby shop!

[pooldoc101]

I used to have an OS CV-RX in my truck which is a standard NT kit, it was a perfect fit, I would look real close at the manual and compare it to your motor , it sounds like You have the mounts 'wrong', possibly upside down or reversed! Good Luck!

[pooldoc101]

I keep looking back at your post and yes , the pullstart will hang off the side of truck, Make sure the gears align correctly, though!

[RCRACER2471]

ok last question...you take the drive hub off the little gray that comes with the engine. Otherwise it wont fit...The mounts are fine i fugured that out but the part of lining it up doesnt work. Without the drive hub im positive it will line up but the flywheel wont go on without out it...sounds kinda confusing....

[Got Speed]

cave- Im pretty sure they will be racing saturday. I won't be racing till after the cactus classic. I can't believe I wasted $8 on a useless bumper that caused me to not finish the race and cost me another $20+. LOL oh well. Im going to watch the cactus classic and the two saturdays after that Ill be out there racing. SRS dosn't have a novice class unless there are more than 3 people that want to sign up for it. 3 out of 4 times they don't have a novice but sometimes they do. If you think your driving is bad some of those other people that sign up for gas on saturdays are twice as bad. Really the main thing to remember is if the leader is coming up behind you don't block him just let him pass. There is one guy out there who is always screaming about getting hacked,lol, but really he is the worse driver out there.

[saabcaptain]

Just FINALLY (had a lot to do the last month) finishing my Adam Drake XXX-NT build this weekend and have 2 questions...

1. I am using Trinity Bomb One inserts with Losi Pink Tapers and Pro-Line M3 Blades. The Bomb One inserts are quite a bit larger then the inserts that came with the tires. If I stuff the Bomb One inserts in and mount the tires I can just barely do it smoothly and there appears, mostly with the Blades, a bulge to the tires. Am I supposed to be doing significant cutting of the inserts or is one of the advantages of the Bomb One insert that it really "fills" out the tire?

2. In hooking up the fuel line to my OS CV-R .12 engine I have a problem. The piece where the fuel line plugs into the engine is aimed toward the spur gear and the fuel line no matter how I route it will rub, likely break, and then spill the fuel etc. Can I get the fuel line plug to rotate toward the rear of the vehicle (it appears it can) but how do I loosen it and then change its position?

Thanks!

[RCRACER2471]

hey saab did you have to take the drive hub off your car in order for the CV-R to line up...it doesnt look right with it on....im trying to fit it on my car right now...

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

saabcaptain-welcome back to the forum!

The flat on the HSN collar (7 mm, as I recall) can be loosened to allow repositioning the nipple for better fuel line routing.

There is room for the fuel line between the carb and the head, or it can extend around the head and meet the fuel nipple just forward of the trans case.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

rcracer2471-from the crankshaft of my "still in the plastic bag" 12CVR I removed a nut and the prop collar. With those parts removed, the front crankshaft bearing is exposed. The kit spacer and collet (with the large end against the washer) slide over the flats on the shaft, followed by the flywheel and clutch nut.

[winning edge designs]

saabcaptain, The trinity bomb foams are cut larger then they are needed up front. We usually trim them with scissors, or a dremel, sometimes both. Take about a 1/4 inch off each corner, then go all the way across using the edge and each cut as a guide along the way across. It takes time but to get it best always does!.....Not to mention i'd run TeamLosi 8 ribs WAY before blades with Tapers in back. I'll usually only use a blade or similar tire with holeshots in back. Trim the rear foams on the corners about 1/8th inch all around inside and out. Use rubber bands to hold the beads seated during gluing. Or in a pinch electrical tape!

Rcracer2471, xxxOS12, hit it on the head...the peice on your engine is likely a "prop collar". It comes off and the flywheel "Collet" goes on, then the parts in the manual........Strange they still include a prop collar because engines were broken in on an engine stand with a prop for a gallon or so in the 50's and 60's.......AGES AGO!..............Good luck, Jim

[saabcaptain]

Well I have the following set of tires all about to mount...

Losi Pink Tapers, Red Step Pins, Red Directionals.
Pro-Line M3 Evil Twins, M3 Blades.

The Pink Tapers are "the tire" at my track with Evil Twins being a in a pinch replacement. When the track is a little more damp (rarely) Pink T-2000's are also possible. Nothing else hooks up. In regards to fronts it seems everyone runs Red Directionals or M3 Blades, half and half.

I will work on the Bomb One foam and use the dremel on it tommorow. I PROMISE ON MONDAY I'LL POST PICTURES OF THE FINISHED CAR MINUS the body which I will be painting in time to run the car next weekend! I also got a laser temp gun so I won't burn up my CV-R!!!

[pooldoc101]

Nice sound effects Jim, my truck was going bbrrrraaa, wwwaaahhhh, so I cut some material off the inside of clutch shoes, and now it goes wwaaaahhhhhh, so I think I did the right thing! What was that about leading or trailing edge? And if I changed the shoes to leading edge, would the truck go bbrrraaa waahhhhh or just wwaaaaaahhhh?:eek: Just curious!

[cave]

Got Speed
Whats up? I just got back from running the Losi. I think my driving has gotten better. I just picked up a orion pro 1100 reciever pack with a charger. have you ever used this type of batery pack? how long will stay charged 1/2 hour or more of run time? Instructions are pretty dim. Nowhere does it say how long to charge this battery.
I was messing around with my nephew this evening and I think he's mad now. I pull away from him with the Mugen running around 240°. It was worth the 5 bucks to tune. he has a nitro rustler with a 2.5. Hay whats the address of that track in glendale? If I get done early tomarro I want to race this truck. I think my drivin is OK now. Yea I think I know who your talking about. The yeller... I remember him from one sunday. E mail me when you go to SRS I'll try to make it out there.
cave

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
Got Speed
Whats up? I just got back from running the Losi. I think my driving has gotten better. I just picked up a orion pro 1100 reciever pack with a charger. have you ever used this type of batery pack? how long will stay charged 1/2 hour or more of run time? Instructions are pretty dim. Nowhere does it say how long to charge this battery.
I was messing around with my nephew this evening and I think he's mad now. I pull away from him with the Mugen running around 240°. It was worth the 5 bucks to tune. he has a nitro rustler with a 2.5. Hay whats the address of that track in glendale? If I get done early tomarro I want to race this truck. I think my drivin is OK now. Yea I think I know who your talking about. The yeller... I remember him from one sunday. E mail me when you go to SRS I'll try to make it out there.
cave

I picked up one of those batts two weeks ago. I charge mine at 1 amp for about an hour and a half. It lasts Id say for about 1 1/2 hours. Plenty of time for practice and racing if you don't leave it one when it is sitting on the table. It is at about 35th Ave. and Osborn. If you come from indian school on 35th Ave. you will see a canal. On the right hand side of the road on the north bank of the canal is the track. It's a small dirt parking lot with a fadded sign in the middle that says RC Sports Mania. They are open for racing on wendsdays and sudnays. Hope those directions help, sorry I don't have an address. They have a pretty small offroad track(nothing compared to SRS) but they have a nice oval track for onroad and offroad. I should be out there watching the cactus classic and maybe running afterwards and racing the two saturdays after the classic. Ill have to see but most likely. BTW: Im sold my 1/8 scale and am going back to a T-Maxx for the non-racing RC fun. lol Ive done some killer jumps though.

[cave]

Got Speed
Ya sold it huh. Those T maxx are fast and fun for the desert fun dont have to worry bout getting hung up.
I hope i didnt ruin the orion battery pack I just bought. I had itchaging all night. Man who ever those instructions must of gone to U of A J/K heheheheehheheehh. ;)
My nephew bought the Nitro rustler. I tryed to get him buy the losi. He saw the rustler at SRS and loved the wheely power. That car is fast. But i take him with the Mugen MT. This truck puts the power to the ground while his wheelies out of control (driver) Its the driver heheehe.
I got alot of help from all you guys here on the mugen problems. Thanks again.
Seems I got one with the the adjustments just a little out of wack. I think thats the norm. didnt help that my silicon coupling was torn. I just suck at tunin these small Nitros.
Now My jet boat with my 454 big block now that runs cherry:D Mines the white wit da blue flame. I know I know. This is the losi xxxnt thread. couldnt help it . Its gunna be 80+ degrees out today. :cool:
cave

[cave]

RCRACER2471
Not too sure if you solved your problem but here is a picture of the part I didnt use. This came on the new motor I got. I dont think your supose to leave it on. Jim (W.E.D.) called it a prop collar. hope this helps.

[cave]

here is another with my slightly used Mach. Is it the part to the right? It looks like a thick aluminum washer with gripping cut into one side. This part was bolted onto the shaft when I got the Mugen.
cave

[RCRACER2471]

Yes thats the one. Thats does not go on right??? The flywheel of mine was already pre built with the collet on the flywheel. do i take that off put it on the shaft and then the flywheel.....It cant go on with the collet attacthed to the flywheel...what do I have to do......

[cave]

RCRACER2471

DONT put that part on. There should be a Brass colet. It's a part that is concaved (heheh I said con-caved heheeh) that should go on first then the bearing next the flywheel then the other bearing then the rest of the goodies. If you need a picture of the conCAVED part send me an email Ill take one and emali it to ya my email address is cave (jetboater454@msn.com) . Ill be on line for alittle bit longer for ya if needed.

[RCRACER2471]

No thats alright cave i think i got it now. Thanx for all your help...I appreciate it!!:D

[cave]

Killer bro have nice one. Time to go drivin the losi.

Got Speed I may be out around your hood. If I can find that glendale track. if not Im gunna try to race at SRS
cave:D

[Got Speed]

RCRACER2471- That part is for people that break-in there engine with a propeller. You put that on first, then the prop, then the clutch nut. I just break mine in while it is in the car. You should put it on like this: brass cone shaped colar, flywheel, clutch nut, clutch, any required shims(if any), bearing, clutch bell, bearing, etc.

cave- Yea, lol, the only directions with it say to charge at no more than 1 amp. What were you charging it at all night? Yep, I sold it, now Im going back to the T-Maxx for all my non-racing fun. :D So the coupler had a rip in on the bottom? Great you got it going good again. I used to race at RCSM when I had a GT but never raced offroad because it was so small. Have fun. BTW: Nice boat!:)

[cave]

Got Speed That SRS track has harden up alot. I broke some parts big time. Never made it to the racing. My chutch wore down. Too hot to do the work in the sun. I dont have a table or canapee. That table top is brutal. They should cut the plywood even where they want the dirt to stop. caught my rear a arm on it today on a landing. I needed shims between the brass cone and bearing on the motor. got it on now.
I used the one the hobby shop said to charge it with. It seem to be ok. Can I use my ols school charger from back in the days to charge it. I can do a .75 amp 15 minute quick charge . I just need to pick up a adapter What do ya think ? Anyone else do this? I'll be at SRS today. They will open the track at 10am to 3pm. That track is brutal. me and my nephew are thinking of opening an indoor track. We are going to look into some ware house space in Mesa. Its just talk rite now. people always ask me If I know anyware to run these on the East side.
Hey My nephew crossed over to Losi's XXX-NT . heheehehhee. I think the jumps at SRS convinced him that rustler is just for wheelies and rompin. He wants to put the 2.5 in the losi. Any one ever do this ?
cave

[Got Speed]

Yea, the pic looks alot harder. My pics didn't turn out to well. There was a lot of glare from the lights. At 7.5 amps you should probably let it charge for about 1 1/4 hours.

[cave]

Got Speed
That old charger use to charge my 6 & 7 cell batteries. ya think I couls use it for this orion reciver pack?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
Got Speed
That old charger use to charge my 6 & 7 cell batteries. ya think I couls use it for this orion reciver pack?

If it only charges 6 and 7 cell then you can't charge the battery with it. lol, I meant to say .75 above. Are you going to watch the cactus classic? I kept having trouble with that double in back.

[cave]

Yup I plan on it. The double? The on that ends with a rt turn after the table top. The triple in front of the Table top is a pain in my wallet too. lol. Oh well. Its only money. Do ya think you can make it out to SRS today?
cave

[rccarman5]

just wanted to let everyone know that yesterday i really smashed my car pretty bad. i was driving at about 30mph when i was looking the other way(distraction) and i hit a basket ball hoop pole. the ones that are mounted ot the ground, in conrete.

my front left wheel caught the pole and tore out my whole front end. my front bulkhead was torn(where the ballcup was) my front kickplate(all cracked) my front shock tower, my shock end, and my steering assembly. not one ball end was removed from it's ball stud. how funny. o well. i'm trying to replace all those parts in graphite for about 35-40 dollars on ebay.

just wanted to let ya guys know :eek: :(

[MikeWz]

Wow, that really sucks. There is a guy on e-bay that's got a whole bunch of the Drake Parts up on ebay. I made my RTR a drake in parts from him(Minus the chassis) for about $50. Not bad eh!?!?

[Trevor280z]

ok ive been through 2 tanks trying to get my throttle adjusted perfectly. When i have it idling right, the throttle wont fully open. Vice-versa on the WOT. Its getting a little frustrating and id like to get my truck in a perfect tune up before a race called Spring Xtreme comes around. (i could win a Mugen Stadium Truck+$50) sort of like a tag team race. 2 members in each team. 30minute run time on the main each. and i run second so i want my truck top condition. Appreciate the help yall have already given me.

[Got Speed]

cave- I won't be able to make it out there. Im sick right now.:(

Trevor280z- Check the Dual rates on your transmitter(if you have dual rates).

[pooldoc101]

Hey guys, what would be one step down in traction from a red step pin? The step pins really hook up when the track is wet, but as it dries out , my truck gets loose. Just wondering if someone had any advice on this, I think the step pins fold over as the track gets drier.

[Trevor280z]

sorry i dont have that feature on my radio. (Futaba Magnum Sport FM) i do need a nicer radio, whats everyones input on the JR XR3i (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=JRP334275)

BTW what is exponential adjustment?

[Twist 2 Go]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Trevor280z
[B]sorry i dont have that feature on my radio. (Futaba Magnum Sport FM) i do need a nicer radio, whats everyones input on the JR XR3i (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=JRP334275)

Yes you do, flip open the cover and you'll see 2 small dials that say something like throttle EPA HI & LO

[cave]

Got Speed. hope ya feel better soon. I was at SRS today that track is brutal. The Mugen Mt .12 Hauls. They didnt want any one to wet the track. At least that was what I was told. It was a costly day.
Check this out. Not too many people have seen this. Thanks to the triples and then the table top. Then the white pipe. I did however clear all but the pipe...
was it me who said it is only money? all in fun
cave

[Trevor280z]

thats on the magnum junior. I have a magnum sport

[rccarman5]

MIck wz, you got every part for about 50 bux?!?!? i was checking for what i was looking for and it ended up to be about 50 it'self well that what he said he would give them to be off ebay. here is what i need. tell me if u got all these parts or even more

Front shock tower
front pivot block
front A arms
frnt kickplate
front bulkhead
steering assembly

did u get more than those off him for 50? like the rear shocktower and pivot block and rear arms? because that hella deal.

also cave, if i were to show u my damage, u would be scared. my whole left A arm is totally smashed, u cant even make out what part of the car its from

[cave]

rccarman5
Plastic pvc pipe vs steel pipe. Yea I can only imagine bro. I just need a new kick plate and top brace. I would go graphite but my drivin is still alittle sketchy lol. I think the plastick is alittle more forgiving. I really need to get a new steering servo with real time responce. Next purchase after the replacement parts. Sorry to hear your cars front end was totaled. Are you able to fix it?
Most of the people out today said they had never seen a kick plate sheer off like that. As I mentioned this track is brutal...
cave
so was my jumping l o l

[RichA]

Hello all--

I'm in the process of building my NT and I'm wondering if I got a bad batch of bearing or if what I got is normal. The 3/16 x 3/8 looks like they have cork in the middle of them. When I put one on the slipper shaft and try to spin the bearing it doesn’t even do one rotation. The 1/2 x 3/4 bearing is a bit better quality, but not by much.

The NT isn't the first Losi car/truck (it is the first gas vehicle though) that I have purchased. So I'm surprised to see such low quality bearing in the kit. If the bearings are designed this way for the abuse that a gas truck might put on them, than let me know.

Thanks for any input sent my way.

Team R.

[RCOldskool]

Does anyone know if there is a conversion kit to take off my pullstarter from the stock mach .15 that comes with the sport?

Any help would be appreciated.

[losimaniac87]

Well, contact the company that manufacters the mach 15 and order a backplate, or if you just want to start the motor with a starter box you don't need to remove the pullstart. You can start the mach 15 with a pullstart on it on a box starter without hurting the motor or the pullstart.

[losimaniac87]

My bearings all worked great right out of the box, can't tell you what's wrong. Maybe you did get a bad batch.

[akprice]

well i got my t-90 onroad tires this weekend and got to try them out. wow!!! they are incredible. you can do some serious donuts with these tires. they grip very well. it takes a few passes to get used to the steering because they grip so well to the road. i won't know about the longevity of the tires for a while but they seem to be holding up very well. i definitely suggest these tires for onroad use. oh, and they also look sweet on the truck. i will post some pictures later in the day of them on my truck.

question - i found a construction site to run my truck on some well packed dirt. the dirt was wet and packed good so there was decent traction, but my truck was very squirley. i haven't raced my truck off road yet so i have been testing it on dirt, but i keep having this problem. i tried loosening the slipper a little bit but it was still all over the place. is there anything else that i can do to get it to grip better? if i punch it right off the line, the truck will just do donuts all day long. i have to ease into the throttle to get it to go straight. i'm afraid that if i get into a off road race i will be all over the track. can someone give me some suggestions please?

[MikeWz]

RCCarman-I got all of those parts except for the steering assembly. I got the Center brace as well though. The total price came to $57.

Pooldoc-The next step down from the red compund tires are the pink compound tires. For more traction don't go with the step-pins. Hole Shots and T-2000's are probably the best out there. Pro-lines Bowties are great too

Akprice-Try getting some red-compound holeshot tires. They are really good for that kind of surface. A better idea though would be to check out the surface of the track your going to be racing on. Let me know what kind of track you'll be racing on and I can tell you a good set-up

[akprice]

here is my truck with the t-90's on it. and yes, i even armor-alled the tires. i need help, i have some serious issues!:D

[MikeWz]

That looks gangsta if I do say so myself :D
I used to armorall my tires too. I guess us R/Cer's all have some issues to take care of :p Only one problem with that picture. You have the rears on backwards

[akprice]

hey, good call mike! i didn't even notice that. i thought about the directionals when i first looked at them and then must have been so excited when i was putting them on i totally forgot about that. thanks dude. it does look gangsta, doesn't it! i was running it out in front of work a little bit ago, cause my friend wanted to see it. i was telling him that it would do donuts with those tires, but when i was running it, there was no way. those tires were sticking to the pavement they are so grippy. i started thinking about it and wondering why i could do donuts the other day with it, and then i remembered the armor-all on the tires. A-HA!!!!! so if you guys get a set of these and want to donuts with them, spray a little armor-all on them and have some serious fun.

[RCRACER2471]

Hey guys got my car workin with 3 tanks through it already. I need to just fix one adjustment. The problem is that it wont go full throttle in the carb opening and ive been playing around with the linkages and no such luck. The idle speed is set correctly at one 1mm but what do i have to do to make the opening as big as it should be?

[MikeWz]

AKPrice-I'll have to look into a set of those tires. I show off my car at work too :D, that's the only way to have fun

RCRACER-check the settings on your radio. Make sure that it's not set so that the throttle servo can only go so far. I believe that's the A trim button on your Radio but don't hold me to that. Make sure everything is programmed right in your radio. That could be the problem.

[winning edge designs]

Pooldoc, don't overlook the red Ifmar pins! I find at most races as the track dries or hardens a little too much for Step Pins then Ifmars take over....If the trend continues, then it's time for T-2000's or Holeshots. I have never liked the feel of Square fuzzies or smaller pin tires on a truck though, with one exception. If the track gets awesome, like hard packed surface events with high turnouts, Taper Pins are Da bomb!

RichA, the bearings, when new, are packed with special grease. Believe it or not as they wear and the grease squeezes out, they'll need to be replaced soon. Bearings are designed to be free under a pre-determined load. How well they free spin doesn't determine how well they work under load. In fact i've seen dozens of times when the super free bearings are a few seconds away from self destruction. There is an exception, and that is high speed "oiled" bearings, like the ones used in electric motors and such................Hope this helps, Jim

[RCRACER2471]

Alright, ill take a look
Im still trying to figure out how it works.....

[tjraceing]

Originally posted by Zedstr
i need a starter box and new temp gun. then i'll finally have mine running. any tips differing from the stock setup would be greatly appreciated.

radio shack has a temp gun for 30 dollars and it works as good as the 100 dollar one

[tjraceing]

Originally posted by xr4
I am new to the offroad scene , being a onroader racer for number of years I got sick of the lack of tracks in my area. So I decided to make the jump to offroad, I haven't really decided between the xxxnt and the rc10gt, ive noticed there is alot more gt owners. Why is this? What are your opinions on the xxxnt and is it pretty competive out of the box? I've never owned anything from losi so I thought I would ask some owners before I spend the big bucks. Thanks

i just recently started racing offroad nitro myself and i went with the xxxnt and i tried all of them from traxxas nitro rustler to as and i am happiest with the xxnt the geometry is awesome handles great and jumps beautifully

[Twist 2 Go]

I have been reading the above posts about tires and as I have recently returned to the rc off-road ranks, can someone list the besttires to use, as a general guideline, from soft,wet dirt to hard-packed clay/sand. Thanks

[cave]

Twist 2 Go
losi tire guild (http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/tirechart/tirechart.htm) Try this.
cave

[MikeWz]

Zedstr-What you could do is look on the losi site. They have drake's set-up and also francis' set-up. You can set your car to these but they'll probably wind up only being a reference point. It all comes down to the track and your driving style. You'll wind up changing the settings anyway.

[grimlock3000]

I finished putting together my truck two nights ago. I had some issues in the later stages of assembly.

-First up, the one of the button head screws on the battery box did not even have a hex in the top. I had an extra screw with the same thread pattern so I decided to use that and figured I would not have any issues. After putting in the first screw ok, the second screw head felt loose and then stripped out as I was torquing it down. I ended up taking off the battery box, using a Dremel to cut a line in the top of the button head, and getting it out with a flat head driver. Then I threw away all of the button head screws. I used the gold tapping screw and slowly threaded the battery box holes to accept a 4-40 pattern screws. I tapped each hole twice to make sure any excess material was removed. Drilling out the holes would work as well and is probably a better idea so you do not have to worry about cracking the plastic. I then cut down the extra 4-40 cap head screws that come for a pull start engine and now I have an easy to access battery box that will not strip out or cause me problems later :) I would reccomend this to anyone, espcially since the kit gives you extra screws.

-Next up, one of the 5-40 engine mount screws had a bad hex in the top. I could only get in the driver about halfway compared to the other 5-40 screws. After messing with the battery box screws, I threw this away without even bothering to mess with it and bought another screw :p

-The rest of the engine installation went great. Without even thinking about it, I turned the ball link on the slide carb w/o loosening the set screw first screw but apparently I did not damage anything (phew!).

-This brings me to the servo mounts. The servo mounts are junk! My Airtronics 94102 standard servo was not even close to fitting correctly because the wires coming out of the servo get blocked by the plastic of the servo mounts. I used the Dremel to clear the material for the servo wires but I really think this is something that never should have been released like this. I can understand some bad screws, but the servo mounts should not be compressing the servo wires so tightly it risk damaging the wires.

Average day temps in Maine are above the freezing point now and the snow is melting down. Hopefully I can get my truck in some dirt/mud in about two weeks time if it does not snow any more. I have some common spare parts being shipped to me right now.

The only thing I am missing is FUEL! I called every dealer in Maine listed in the RCCA directory and the Horizon directory. The only fuels I can buy are Blue Thunder Sport blend and Traxxas Top Fuel. The BT is about 25 miles away which is not too bad and the Traxxas is over 100 miles away. I have heard so many bad things about BT i am weary about buying it. Should I give the Blue Thunder a try, travel for the Traxxas, or just get 4 gallons of Wildcat online? :confused:

[MikeWz]

Definatly Buy 4 gallons of wildcat on-line. Or if you can even Get HPI or Trinity fuel. They are all made by wildcat. Wildcat is the best fuel on the market. Definatly don't buy the BT. The blue it leaves on your engine can crystalize and tear up your components real good. Traxxas isn't worth the drive either. It's just got a lot of lube because traxxas engines run hotter. I recommend Trinity Monster HP(if you plan to race get platnum) if at all possible.

[grimlock3000]

i am trying to convince any one of my friends to buy a nitro so i can split the cost of getting four gallons of fuel that is blended by wildcat. i really do not think i would be able to go through four gallons of fuel myself before it started to go bad :)

i have my ofna pink starter box put together and i think i have the pegs all lined up right to get the flywheel over the starter. i want to make sure everything it lined up, is is ok to put a little marvel mystery oil in the carb and kick the engine over a few times with no fuel in the tank?

[cave]

Hey is there a way to remove the broken ball stud shaft from the shock towers? I broke one this weekend on the one that holds the rear hubs. Are there any longer ball studs out there that are stronger? Brand? Part #?. if it were longer I could remove them from behind.
cave

[pooldoc101]

I use blue thunder, but now that I hear you Mike, I may switch, I have a new motor on the way and will probably start it on Trinity or I've heard good things about Macy's too, [WED recomended it] Grimlock- Ive turned my motor over without starting it, I would use some after run oil, and keep the cranking brief, not more than 5 seconds at a time. TJ- the verdict is still out on that temp gun, my buddies reads 30 degrees off , too low, this could really mess up your motor! I would check it against another gun before I trusted it WED- I took your advice and ordered a Wasp motor, the offroad model with rear exhaust, rotary carb, I may get a slide carb seperate to put on it! I know you're a OS carb fan, is the OS slide a good carb?

[Got Speed]

cave- You can get the ball stud out usually by drilling it. After about 2 minutes usually it will start to come out on its own. You can get either titanium ball studs at $8 a pair :eek: or buy a set of Traxxas shock ends and a bolt and nut. You have to run the inside setting on the axel carrier and the outside setting on the tower. The titanium ball stud setup breaks a little bit easier but allows for the use of the other tower and axel carrier options(which 90% of the time arn't used but are nice to have). The ball studs on the rear tower are the weak spot on the truck IMO. I broke 3 in one night and 2 others before I switched to the captured ends.

[winning edge designs]

Grimlock, hers a trick for next time you have to set up a new starter box and truck. Before beginning to biuld the kit, biuld the box. This way you can line up the bare chassis and see the cut out perfectly. Just keep in mind where the suspension will be mounted, etc, otherwise you end up moving posts again later.

Cave, Gotspeed, gave you a good sugestion(as usual!), but here's another. It takes a few special tools, but you may have them? A good dremel kit with cutoff wheels(the thin fragile ones) and a jewlers screwdriver set, or a very small flat head at least, like for glasses. Cut a small slot on the top of the broken ballstud, then simply unscrew it. This will require cutting into the plastic a bit, so only cut as much as needed to get a good bite.......Titanium is the only way to go, i've NEVER broken a TeamLosi Titanium ballstud!

Pooldoc, i'm using the stock carb, it seems very good so far. And you're right, Maxy's fuel has been very good for me. In fact so many racers use it now around Florida there are yellow Maxy's shirts EVERYWHERE!...They have won every major off-road event in the state as well!......Btw, The slide carb will give you more "Pop" off the turns, bad for most regular off-road tracks, but maybe good for your ovals!...ttyl, Jim

[pooldoc101]

Jim, I think I,ll try Maxy's fuel , I found a local hobby shop that carries it. The website I saw the wasp info on says that they have just one needle on carb, and that they have a composite carb? I broke a ballstud on my truck once,luckily it broke leaving the shoulder intact, real easy to get out! I'd like to use captured ball ends but if you can't use all the holes that would limit your tuning options too much.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

grimlock3000-www.byronfuels.com lists Byron dealers in Vassalboro, Rockport, Orrington, Orlando, Naples, and Kittery in Maine; Nashua, NH; St. Albans and Rutland, VT; and Plattsburg, NY.

I've had good luck with this fuel brand. The web site explains oil types, nitro %'s, and many other fuel-related subjects very well.

Not knowing where you are, is any one of those stores even close??

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

wed, grimlock3000-I used that method when I had my truck disassembled for it's winter rebuild when the chassis plate was separated from the rest of the truck.

Two boxes and 3 trucks await the melting of the snow......

[cave]

W.E.D. or Got Speed
do you have a part # for the titanium ball studs?
cave

[tjraceing]

My start cord is stuck i pulled it to start it and it pulled out but will not go back. I have the losi xxnt. I pulled the casing off and the bolt wont turn any advice ?

[Philly's Finest]

Gotta stick up for the old blue. I've been using blue thunder fuel with no problems at all. Alot of guys at the track use it also. It does coat stuff in a blue but if you use after run oil I don't see how it can harm anything. And I thought I have read that traxxas fuel is really powermaster relabeled which is also a good fuel.

Anyway is tower the only place online to get a wasp? I haven't looked that hard but don't recall ever seeing it anywhere else. I'll be getting my new engine soon and i'm considering the cvr & the wasp.

[cave]

tjraceing

You may have siezed your motor. This happen to me. Remember you were with me out in the desert. 1st does the flywheel still turn? if so its the cord or the sping.If you still have probs call me on my cell. remember that the nut thats inside the bakplate directional. it only turns 1 way. Does that mean we are not racing tonight??????? No glendale????? No bothering your and my neighbors?
cave
:D

[rc4me2]

will the old GTX wheels fit the xxx-nt???

(the ones w/ the removable lexan dish)

thanks

[akprice]

hey mike - i found out what kind of surface they have at the track that i am going to be racing at. it is a packed clay surface. i have already bought new dirt tires and am hoping that these will be able to work for this surface. i have directionals on front and the stock tires for the back. what springs should i use and what shock oil? i appreciate your help dude!

[tjraceing]

cave i popped my cherry with this new losi motor i had to take it apart and re reel the metal band around the start cord and then unseize the engine pain in the but:mad: but got it done
ready to race tonight

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by pooldoc101
Jim, I think I,ll try Maxy's fuel , I found a local hobby shop that carries it. The website I saw the wasp info on says that they have just one needle on carb, and that they have a composite carb? I broke a ballstud on my truck once,luckily it broke leaving the shoulder intact, real easy to get out! I'd like to use captured ball ends but if you can't use all the holes that would limit your tuning options too much.

I used the captured ends as more of a temporary solution. Ti ball studs are really the way to go. Really I have only had trouble with breaking ball studs on the rear tower.

cave- Sorry I don't have any part number for it but I know SRS carrys them.

tjraceing- So you live in AZ too? :confused:

WED- How much did you pay for your Wasp? It's the offroad version right?

[MikeWz]

Originally posted by akprice
hey mike - i found out what kind of surface they have at the track that i am going to be racing at. it is a packed clay surface. i have already bought new dirt tires and am hoping that these will be able to work for this surface. i have directionals on front and the stock tires for the back. what springs should i use and what shock oil? i appreciate your help dude!

Well, for front tires your directionals will be fine. For the rears I would go with Losi's T-2000's. If the track is tightly packed and pretty slick get the red compound. If it's not really too bad than go with the pink compound. As for oil and springs: I recommend 30wt in the front and 35 wt in the back. Make the arms level on both. Springs I used Red in rear and orange or pink up front. Either will work just fine.

[akprice]

thanks mike. i probably won't be able to get new rear tires for a while, so how do you think those stock tires will do on the clay? are they going to totally suck?

[MikeWz]

Those will probably be a bit squirily. Just watch the turns. Unless your a drifter you may have a bit of a problem. Are you running the mach engine or an after market? If your running an after market you'll want to put in the smallest Carb Restricter you can find. If your using the Mach it won't be too bad off the line. Just watch the turns.

[akprice]

i'm running the stock mach engine. i guess i'll just have to take it easy around the corners. thanks dude!

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by Philly's Finest
Gotta stick up for the old blue. I've been using blue thunder fuel with no problems at all. Alot of guys at the track use it also. It does coat stuff in a blue but if you use after run oil I don't see how it can harm anything. And I thought I have read that traxxas fuel is really powermaster relabeled which is also a good fuel.

Anyway is tower the only place online to get a wasp? I haven't looked that hard but don't recall ever seeing it anywhere else. I'll be getting my new engine soon and i'm considering the cvr & the wasp.


www.stormerhobbies.com also carries Wasp engines for a pretty good price...

[grimlock3000]

Grimlock- Ive turned my motor over without starting it, I would use some after run oil, and keep the cranking brief, not more than 5 seconds at a time.

Grimlock, hers a trick for next time you have to set up a new starter box and truck. Before beginning to biuld the kit, biuld the box. This way you can line up the bare chassis and see the cut out perfectly. Just keep in mind where the suspension will be mounted, etc, otherwise you end up moving posts again later.

Building my XXX-NT has been nothing if not a learning experience. I fully planned to setup the pegs before I mounted the engine. Then I put the starter box away to make room on my work area and forgot about it until after the engine was in. Speaking of the starter box, thanks to everyone who reccomended the Ofna pink box! The box kicks over the engine with no hesitation at all. Dual 550 boxes I have used in the past could never get an engine going as easily. Admittedly, the dual 550 boxes had some use on them.

grimlock3000-www.byronfuels.com lists Byron dealers in Vassalboro, Rockport, Orrington, Orlando, Naples, and Kittery in Maine; Nashua, NH; St. Albans and Rutland, VT; and Plattsburg, NY.

I've had good luck with this fuel brand. The web site explains oil types, nitro %'s, and many other fuel-related subjects very well.

Not knowing where you are, is any one of those stores even close??

I live in Brunswick, Maine which is pretty centralized in the populated part of the state. Most of the shops listed were no longer open or had no one answer the phone. I lucked out though, the location in Rockport is about 55 miles from my house and does not have any Byron's fuel, but they have a full supply of Wildcat Eliminator fuel. I am taking a cruise out there on Saturday with my wife and we are going to get lunch and do some shopping :)

[pooldoc101]

Gotspeed, I just got my wasp from the lhs, it was 156+ tax, offroad version w/ rear exhaust, WED got the side exhaust. You can probably get one a little cheaper online, plus no tax!
Grimlock, I have the pink starter box too, but I got it after I assembled the truck, makes it more difficult but you'll get it ! On mine the rear tire hits the motor:confused: , so you can't leave truck idling on box too long, if you find a way around this please let me know, I really haven't tried to adjust it so it doesn't rub.
I'm putting new mounts on my new motor now, I'm so excited! I also got the MIP lightweight flywheel, a new clutch nut and shoes,I don't want to take flywheel off my RB, I loctited it real heavily and may not get it off!

[grimlock3000]

pooldoc101, the left rear tire is going to rub slightly on the starter box motor no matter what you do.

[BlueBlaster01]

Best Shock set up for bashing? What weight oil? What color spings? Thanks!

[winning edge designs]

Cave, the ballstud part numbers are as follows, Short A9945, Medium A9946, Long A9947. I usually use only medium and long ones. A washer underneath may addd even more strength.

Got speed, it goes for $159 at Superior Hobbies in Florida.

akprice, I know you have some answers on this already, but i've gotten alot of positive feedback on my set-up lately, so i'll drop mine as well....35 wt rear 56 pistons and 30 wt front with 56's as well. Orange springs all around, red springs in front if your track has alot of 180's. Use 2 middle for front shock and 3 inside for rear. .030 spacers in rear shocks and .120 in fronts. Set rear ride hieght dogbones just above level, front, arms level.

Pooldoc, my rear tires rubs the big motor as well. I usually only have it on the box for a few seconds anyhow, but for extended running I just move it back a little on the box, putting the front peg in the front arm, rather then behind it as for starting.

Blueblaster, try the above set-up, since a good handling truck is important for "bashing" as well!...........................ttyl, guys, Jim

[TravisR]

Just wondering how the yank eliminator would work on the Mach .15. The pull start just broke on mine. I tried to make my own (yank eliminator) using my drill. The only problem I see is on the Mach .15 when you take the pull start off there is just a hole in the engine. You can put the shaft back in it , but it won't stay while running will it?

[BlueBlaster01]

Sorry to sound like a complete idiot, but what are the spacers? Whats the part numbers thanks...Also, whats another good brand shock oil, other then Losi (losi's oil is backordered where I want to order from). Thanks!

[grimlock3000]

whoops, double post

[grimlock3000]

Pooldoc, my rear tires rubs the big motor as well. I usually only have it on the box for a few seconds anyhow, but for extended running I just move it back a little on the box, putting the front peg in the front arm, rather then behind it as for starting.

The front pegs can go in the front arm on your starter box? Wow, I have a feeling I setup my box a little wrong. Having never setup a box for a stadium truck before, here is what I came up with:

Two pegs in the back, each one fits in a rear arm on either side and keeps the back end in place:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/peg1.jpg

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/peg2.jpg

Two pegs in the front area of the box, one on each side of the chassis to prevent the front from moving around when the starter hits the flywheel:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/peg3.jpg

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/peg4.jpg

And here is the truck sitting on the box showing how the tire hits the starter motor:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/peg5.jpg

To start the truck, I need to line it up over the rear pegs, then get the front in place and push down. Once I put downward pressure on the chassis, everything is snugly in place. There seemed like a better way but I could not figure out what it was. If there is an eaiser/better way to setup the pegs, I would love to see it :)

[Laterilus]

Hey everyone, I've been bumming around the internet for awhile looking for a place to call home where I can discuss and learn more about my brand new truck! I've been in R/C on and off for more than 13 years now and this is my very first Losi car. I absolutely love it. I don't know what took me so long to get one! I've been really interested in competing at higher levels of racing so I thought I'd make sure to get a car over this winter off-season that complied with ROAR rules. After shopping around, I decided the Losi XXXNT would be the best fit, and I couldn't be more pleased with my decision. As you all can see in the pics below, I picked up the AD edition and dropped in the new Fantom '03 edition rear exhaust engine. The only coherent word to explain what I felt about this truck driving it for the first time is "WOW". It took me only 2 laps around my local off-road track before I felt completely comfortable with this truck. I couldn't believe how well it handled on the track! I know its reputation (who in R/C doesn't?), but in my own personal case, seeing is truly believing. The way it cornered, the way it jumped, the way it landed, etc.... everything seems perfect on this truck right out of the box! While the track was still damp, I almost forgot I was driving a 2WD truck, and I haven't owned a 2WD truck since I was 10 years old (13 years ago)!
Anyways, I'll try not to bore everyone with an extremely long post, I am just elated to see a large group of people to discuss the XXXNT. I read back a few pages of the thread and I am really impressed with the well thought out answers to some honest questions. BTW, I use the pink OFNA box as well and the only thing on my truck that I have broken to this point are rear ball studs! So the ti ones are worth it, eh? Ti ball studs for the whole truck, or just for the rear where it seems the weakest?

Once again, glad to join the community!.... another satisfied customer..... Losi rocks! Enjoy the pics of my new ride.
http://www.columbiathunder.com/images/nakedxxxnt1.jpg
http://www.columbiathunder.com/images/xxxnt1.jpg
http://www.columbiathunder.com/images/xxxnt2.jpg
http://www.columbiathunder.com/images/xxxnt3.jpg
http://www.columbiathunder.com/images/PR_xxxnt12.jpg

[PJCruz]

Hey Lat, SWEET ride.. that thing must HAUL on the track!!

ANy of you guys use the receiver box mod and put in the "plug" to access the receiver crytal? I just saw pix of Drake's rig and he has a hole/plug on top of the box. Are you guys running the rx on the SIDE of the chassis brace.. or on the chassis (with padding underneath)? I'm trying to figure out how you get out the crystal from such a tiny hole with little leverage (tweezers?). I usually have to hold my rx when I change crystals since it's usually a tight fit. If it wasn't I'm sure the rigors of offroad and my jumping would leave me SANS crystal.

As a side note, I have a Novak XXXTRA receiver (no crystal) and it works very well.. and it's in the TMaxx. Anyone use this in the Losi? Would be easy to access thru a "hole" to change frequencies I guess.

Thanks
Pete

PS: I have a SLEW of hopsups coming in today and thru the weekend for my Losi... =)

[Juice]

Very nice truck you have there!! Have fun racing it!

Grimlock----what type of battery do you use for your starter box? and what size motor does it use(looks huge)? You say thats an ofna box as I need to get me another one soon!

--Speaking of starter boxes has anyone tried the new Ofna Multi-box(PN10246/ 10247RTR) with a 750 size starter motor in it? Would the 750 size motor be better than two 550 motors I currently have in my Dynamite Ultra box?

W.E.D--- which springs are softer the orange or Red??:confused:

[akprice]

lateralus - welcome to the forum. there are a lot of great guys on this forum to help you with whatever you need. i have learned so much from these guys. they have been great! you wouldn't happen to be a tool fan would you? just wondering cause of your username. sweet truck! losi is the only way to go. i started in rc along time ago when i was a kid and started out with the tamiya wild willy, then went to the hornet and then an associated rc10 buggy. then finally my life changed when i got rid of that piece of crap rc10 and bought a losi jrx pro. this buggy was awesome. i raced it in denver for a while, but then had a friend steal it from me when i moved to north carolina. i stayed out of rc for a while and then bought the losi xxx buggy. i really didn't do much with it and it sat around my house for about a year when i had a friend get a nitro truck. so, of course i stick with losi and i got the xxx-nt. i couldn't be happier. nitro is so much more fun than electric. the testosterone is off the charts. again, welcome!

wed - thanks for your setup. what exactly do the spacers do?

[Got Speed]

Laterilus- Nice Car. Glad you like it. Have fun racing it. The Ti. ball studs IMO are really only needed on the rear but if you can just get a full set.

PJCruz- You adjust it with a screwdriver right? You should be able to put two small holes in the side of the box to be able to adjust it. You may want to find something to fill the holes up with when your done?

Juice- Any starter box with a 750 motor will start better than a dual 550 motor box. The one you mentioned should work(unless it is too wide). It really isn't anything different than the pink box other than it has more adjustments.

Losi Spring Rates:

Gray 1.6, White 1.8, Yellow 2.0, Pink 2.3, Red 2.6, Orange 2.9, Silver 3.4, Green 3.7, and Blue 4.1

[akprice]

hey gotspeed - i have been confused by the spring rates. so does the lower the number like 1.6 mean that it is going to be softer or harder?

[Laterilus]

Thanx for the compliments guys.:) I recently got an airbrush and I think that is the first body that I've done that has really come out the way I intended it to. Of course, it just happened to be on the Losi!
AkPrice - So few people notice, but the ones that do more than likely are Tool fans themselves. Tool is the greatest band I personally have ever listened to. They are my fav. I've been using that screename on forums ever since I waited in a line for 2 hours on their midnight release two years ago for that album. I have one of the first copies released with the album title still mispelled "Laterilus" as opposed to the correct spelling "Lateralus". I was going to tell you that orange springs are harder than the reds, but I was beaten to it. That reminds me however, the first thing I changed on my truck was to put silvers on the rear as opposed to the orange spings. With the engine and battery pack, I thought the truck bottomed out way too much and started to rebound on landings. The silver springs stopped that and dampened the truck nicely off jumps.
I was under the impression that the OFNA box with the 750 motor was a smaller motor than the one found in their 1/8 scale blue/silver box and the motor found in their pink box? It just looks smaller to me. Juice, wether I am right or not, anything is better than those boxes with the dual 550s. The dual 550s start smoking the instant you try to turn over your engine. I have never had a good experience with those. Get a box with a big torquey motor like OFNA's pink box or silver/blue box. BTW, has anyone ever noticed RCCA's article on how to upgrade your dual 550 motor starter box? I swear, sometimes those guys really have got nothing better to do. Upgrade a dual 550 motor box? Why? They said to replace the two stock motors with Trinity Monster Maxx Pros. Lets see here... buy two Trinity Monster Max Pros for 110$..... or pay 80$ for OFNA's pink box which will have a lot more torque than two 550 motors... lets see... such a hard decision!! I wish I had stupid money to burn like those guys do. Sometimes I feel my inteligence is insulted when I read that magazine!

[akprice]

lateralus - nice, a tool fan. i have loved tool for a long time. i just finally got to see them live though on their last tour. it was everything i thought it would be. i had no idea about the misspelling of the cd...wow, keep on to that one, that will be worth some money. did you pick up the dvd box set they had out? it has their videos on the dvd and then a cd with some live songs on their and one of the best covers of no quarter that i have ever heard.

so i assume then that the higher the number goes, the harder the springs are going to be. i might want to go to the silvers in the back as well, cause i have noticed the same thing after putting in a receiver pack.

[Scrad]

I was cleaning my truck last week (It has been sitting in the closet for months) and I picked up the truck and the battery box broke off. I know Native racing has a box, but is there any other companies that have a nice battery box? LMK your thoughts on them and if you like whatever brand you have. I need to get one soon, so when the snow melts I can fire it up... Thanks...

[PJCruz]

Got Speed, I have the XXXtra in my Maxx truck and have had no trouble.. but it sits FLAT down in the rx box ON the chassis. I would worry in the Losi with the jumps and bumps perhaps a sideways mounted XXXtra may "lose" it's freq setting. If it was mounted flat there would be less chance of that.

I have a micro rx Airtronics in the Losi now.. but how do you guys change the crystal if you use the little hole/plug mod? It's NOT a major problem to open the box up.. but a little PITA when you have other things to tend do b/w heats/mains (i.e. multiple classes).

Thanks
Pete

[grimlock3000]

juice, i am using a hobbico 12 volt gell cell battery for the starter box. i opted for the smaller 4.5 mah capacity battery instead of the 7 mah capacity battery to save on weight.

juice+laterilus, the motor is physically larger than a 750 and should have more torque according to people on the ofna messageboard. i went with the pink box knowing the tire would hit the motor since i mostly care that the box turns to motor over everytime with no issue. realistically, the multibox with the 750 should work just as good for a .12 engine. i thought the rcca article about tuning a dual 550 box with $90->$100 of monster maxx motors was pretty funny as well :)

[bogz]

I'm looking at getting a replacement servo for the steering on my xxx-nt.

For $40, the HiTec 645 looks pretty good.

Any other options for that price range / performance?

Thanks in advance.

[Juice]

Cool, thanks for all the help Guys!

Laterilus--you are correct I have seen smoke come from my 2-540's more than once:D I burnt up the stock ones after a while and now have 2 stocks in there--still doesnt do a very good job of firing up my baby!! Guess Ill have to get me either one of those ofna boxes.
So the big pink box--Im guessing there is not really an issue with the tire rubbing on the starter motor then?

[Juice]

Bogz--I run all hitecs on my XXX & Maxx and have never had a problem with any! Great servos for the price....As for your question I run that in my truck and its plenty fast and turns me on a dime!

check here for a good price on servos & free shipping: Servo's (http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/Products/Hitec_Servos/HS-645MG_Ultra_Torque/hs-645mg_ultra_torque.html)

[Laterilus]

Bogz, your better bet would be getting a Hitec 625. The 645 may look tempting with all of it torque, but you won't need it. Any 1/10 scale stadium truck really doesn't need much more than about 75oz. of torque. It's the speed that matters. At 6V, the 625 is .13 or .15. That is much better speed than what you'll get out of the 645. Plus, at 6V you'll get 94oz. of torque from the 625. Just my opinion. Oh, btw, the 625 is the same price. Servocity.com is definitely the way to go with their free shipping like Juice mentioned.

[BlueBlaster01]

Originally posted by BlueBlaster01
Sorry to sound like a complete idiot, but what are the spacers? Whats the part numbers thanks...Also, whats another good brand shock oil, other then Losi (losi's oil is backordered where I want to order from). Thanks!

:p Anyone???

[MikeWz]

Spacers go inside the body of the shock, and(correct me if i'm wrong) don't let the piston go all the way up the body. As for Oil, go with AE's oil, and then get their green ooze to seal up the shocks. Works great. Not sure of the part numbers on either one of those

[grimlock3000]

there is a discussion a few weeks back in the thread regarding the 625 and 645 servos and the topic is brought up sporadically throughout the thread. i spent some downtime at work reading the entire thread when i got my kit, the general concensus has been that the 625 would be better on a smoother tracks and the 645 is better for the rough stuff because its better ability to turn the wheels and keep them there while a load is being applied. essentially, when enough load is being applied to the wheels, the 645 will be able to turn the wheels at a faster rate than the 625.

[Got Speed]

akprice- The higher the number the stiffer it is. For example the orange is 2.9. Well it takes 2.9pounds to compress it one inch(I think it is an inch).

Scrad- I don't think there is any other alum box. I wish there was. If you find one LMK please. :)

PJCruz- Fortuanatly I have never had to change a frequency for a race! :) But I have changed it during practice and it is a real pain. I havn't tried a hole in the box yet but though about it.

bogz- That is a good servo. Ive got two of them. Ive never had a problem with them wearing out or breaking. The 625 is a good one too. You have to decide between speed and torque.

BlueBlaster01- AE and Trinity both make good shock oil. There are others but you usally only see AE, Losi, and Trinity. The spacers are called limiters. They just keep the shock from fully extending. They stop the piston from reaching the bottom of the shock body.

[Got Speed]

I forgot: :o

The 12V gell cell battery will last longer in the box before it needs a charge but the two stick packs provide more power to the motor since they put out 14.4 volts.

[MikeWz]

Bah, So I had it backwars. Oh well. I tried:D

[pooldoc101]

Well guys, I got 2 tanks thru my new wasp , running real rich, kept loading up and stalling, then my glo igniter died. The included manual with engine says 2-3 tanks real rich, so rich the motor barely runs, then lean it out gradually til 5-6 tanks then it's ready to rock! WED, if you have any pointers please let me know. Thanks, Pooldoc

[cave]

Got Speed

My nephew and I raced last night at rc mania. Thats a small track. I didnt do too well. BoeTies slipped big time. Some guy named Billy told us to us hole shots or fuzzi Ts. One of the turn- mashals unhooked me from another racer and accidently pulled the battery plug off from my reciever DNF on second lap. But Its was alot of fun to get out there and play... That oval stuff is alright. Got to get some better tires for that track. Thats got to be one of the smallest off road tracks I have ever run on...

Got Speed or WED What Wt oil do you all recommend for the front & rear shocks? Piston? I just picked up the threaded shock cases for the front & rear.

Got the fever:D
cave

[BlueBlaster01]

Thanks for all the help guys, do any of you know what the shock limiters part #'s are...Can't seem to find them in my Losi Price list..I found the .050" limiter...but no .030" or .120" spacers. Only thing I can think they are named as is the "Shock Spacer Set" (A-5050). Thanks Again for all the help! I'm just getting into the world of High Perf. R/c's...I may even try to race this year (probably not because I don't know what the heck I'm doing!)

[offroadcrazy01]

Hey guys I have only ran os motor how are some of the other motors how long do they last most of the 0s motors I have had last a year and a half I'm thinking about getting a mugen,wasp ,or a trinity sirio any info you guys have would help

[cave]

BlueBlaster01

I may even try to race this year (probably not because I don't know what the heck I'm doing!)

Hey last night was my first race in 12 or so years My knees were knockin for a few seconds them I just got into it. It was the most fun Ive had running my Losi. The people who come up to you and offer advice is increadable. Most of the locals walked up and said HEY. Most even saw me strugglin and offered thier.10 cents. Which I will take in most cases. You gota try it. My nephew tjraceing did really well for this being his first race ever. If there is a place try it out. Just remember, "You got to have fun"
I did:D
really got the fever
cave:cool:

[cave]

Any one know how many Drake Edition kits are out there? what the differences are? I hear people say " mines a trinity or a orian. How many kit are out there. I'm gunna get one I just want the one with the best set ups. Is there one that offers all the aluminum parts like pivot blocks and hubs in aluminum? I just started this journey so give a brother a clue please...
cave

[winning edge designs]

Grimlock, you have it the same way I do. I use those front pegs inside the front arms once the truck is running. They keep it from sliding around so much otherwise. On my box they are in a location up front that works well for starting and running with the tire off the motor.

Blueblaster, the number is A-5050. The spacers control how much drop the arms have. This effects the trucks handling thru bumps, over jumps, under accel and decel, etc. Basically,the more the truck can roll, the more forgiving it will be, but less responsive. Kind of like a T maxx? The less the truck can roll, the more responsive and the easier it will bottom out and may not be as good in the bumpy stuff. So it's all about a trade off of what each track and driver needs.

Pooldoc, I don't always go by the included manuals in engines nowadays. They always give 1960's break-in procedures. ABC aluminum sleeve engines break in very quick. Unfortunately, the colder the engine is, the tighter the tolerances are. I run my engines at 180-200 degrees from the start. This seats the parts at the temp it will be used at for racing, which is the correct method. Since you want to have the clearance, which is controlled by temp, in a range the engine will be raced at. A cold engine is "tighter", so breaking in at 135-140 degrees(blubbering,cold) wears in the parts further then breaking in at 180-200. After two tanks, the engine should be run in on the track, without being leaned further for a few more tanks, then it can be run between 180-240, depending on conditions, track, etc....Hope this helps, Jim

[rc4me2]

can anyone please tell me if the old losi dish wheels (gtx, lxt, etc...) will fit the xxx-nt?

also...anyone run fantom engines?

thanks

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

cave-Sounds like people are identifying their trucks by the engines.....

Grimlock, wed-great idea! A 4th peg at the RF will stop the truck from falling off the starter box during warmup. I've got a readily obtainable alternative to the starter box plastic posts that I'll get on the board once I figure out how to get a "printed on Kodak paper" photo posted.

[PJCruz]

Just got home from work.. and I had a delivery from a local Losi guy. He brought me a DE chassis and pipe, as well as a "brake kit." Includes the brake disc and hardware to install on the gear box.. (including the hard-ano'd brake clips). Tomorrow I'll pick up my Trinity pieces and the threaded Losi shocks (F and R).

I WAS going to build a SPARE gear box ready to go.. but at $80 for the needed parts.. I think I'll just build a spare diff. OUch!

BTW: I also ordered the HG diff lock nut for the NT. I'll let you guys know how it is. Supposedly is "DOESNT" strip out.

Peter

[morfracerX]

Does any run the mugen,wasp,,sirio how long have you had it and how much troble does it give you I've been in nitro for three years now the only engines I've had was os's be side speed is there going to be a big diffence if I try something new :rolleyes:

[Laterilus]

Rc4me2, I run fantom engines.:D I've had one in my NMT since they were first released, and I just dropped one of the new '03 editions into my new XXXNT. In my opinion, they are unbelievable engines. I run them in all of my cars. I couldn't be more pleased. Their top end is unmatched by any engine and they rip a lot of torque. The price is unbeatable as well. They are top quality racing engines and have never disappointed me. I'll more than likely never switch engines on any of my cars again.
http://www.columbiathunder.com/images/PR_Fan120306.jpg

[rc4me2]

fantom engines...as you mentioned, their performance seems to be top notch
what about tuneability?...will the carbs hold a setting?...and how difficult / finicky might they be compared to other engines?
what about reliability?...do they last a long time?

thanks again for your input

[MikeWz]

I've run fantom engines as well. They are an excellent engine. They have good power, both low and high, hold a tune good, and last a while. However, I have found the Mugen MT-12 a better engine. It has the most low end I have ever seen, and seems to have a bit more top-end than the FR-12. As far as longevitiy, I've had 6 gallons with my FR but I'm only on 1 1/2 with my MT so far. We'll see how long it lasts

[Got Speed]

cave- That's cool. Yea, if you don't go out there just to win then it is alot of fun. For RCSM's offroad Id say 40wt for starters. For SRS 40wt. is ideal for me. Stock pistons. Billy is a good racer out there and at SRS. lol he usually takes the trophy, hehe. At RCSM you may want to try the holeshots or the square fuzzie Ts. The oval always uses holeshots or similar and the offroad uses bowties or the holeshots(sometimes one sometimes the other). I don't know how many drakes there are out there but when someone says it is a trinity or an orion they mean it has a trinity engine or orion engine. There arn't different versions of the drake. Trinity makes the alum pivot blocks, axel carriers, radio switch plate, etc. SRS carries all of the Trinity stuff for the XXXN-T. The Drake is really the same truck as the rtr or kit except all the parts that would be plastic are graphite(except the radio switch plate, servo mounts, radio and reciever boxs) and all the aluminum is hard anodized. In adition to the ball bearing steering, the drake Fury NT body, drake wheels, red step pins and red directionals, threaded shocks with ti nitrate shock shafts, the low slung header, Lunsford ti turnbuckles, etc.

[WheelNut]

Laterilus-Is that engine stock in that picture? It sure looks good!

I mounted an old Duratrash Torq.12 in my XNT the other day. The engine runs nice, but I haven't been able to drive the truck yet, no Rx pack! But its on its way! :) If that engine isn't anygood I'm going to try my dad's old AE .15. And if I don't like that I'll be getting something more top of the line.:p

[Laterilus]

RC4me2, once again, this is just my personal opinion, but I think you really can't get a better engine than a Fantom with all factors considered. You asked about their tunability...... I think they tune very precicisely and accurately. I've never had a problem with them. Besides, they've updated the rotary carb for the '03 editions to be even better! I'll agree with MikeWz that the MT12 is a fantastic engine with excellent low end torque. Definitely it will be better than the Fantoms on the low end, but I've yet to see an engine out rev the fantoms. I haven't been able to take any .15 or .12 other than Fantom engines up to 40000 RPMS. With the addition of the rear exhaust .12, now Fantoms have really good low end as well. The engine in that picture is "stock" Wheelnut. I'm not sure what to do to it to make it "modified". I guess what you mean is are there carbs, conrods, piston/sleeves, cooling heads to buy for it? Other than the Losi XXXNT mounting hardware, that engine is straight from the box... on top of that, it is only 120$. That is where Fantoms truly beat all the high performance engines. They are soooo much cheaper. Rebuilds are only 37$ on top of that.

[pooldoc101]

WED- thanks for the advice, when I checked the motor temp it was at 190, I'm gonna run a few tanks tomorrow in a parking lot, I think I'll have to lean low end needle to do this, as It was bogging when I gave it throttle. If I feathered it alot I could get it to accelerate, but not to full revs. I'll lean it a tad to make it driveable and really take it easy for a few tanks. It sticks at tdc still, had to heat it with blow dryer to get it fired up! I don't know if I'm gonna race it sunday, it depends if I can get it tuned in time, I'm not that experienced at tuning yet and my RB is so easy to tune! I don't know what to expect from this motor as far as performance goes, but I'm hoping it rips! And I don't want to fall on my face in front of the boys at the track..........maybe I'll take it to the track on a weekday, when their not all there:D Guess I could miss one raceday, but I,m in the points, I could put in my RB in about 5 minutes.......but I really want to run it, oh well, we'll see how it goes tomorrow. So after a few more easy tanks, that will make 4, is it ok to get it tuned for performance,ie, lean it out? Pooldoc

[Philly's Finest]

Laterilus thanks for the good review. I need a new engine for bashing and some lite racing. I was looking at the new fantoms and also the wasps. I think I'll go with the fantom.

[pooldoc101]

I didn't know a boost chamber came stock on a Fantom ,cool!

[winning edge designs]

Pooldoc, yes, 4 or 5 tanks and it will be race ready. I would still favor the rich side for a few more tanks, since there is no reason to push it and risk going overboard on a new engine. I rarely tune to the edge, unless I am up against some very good drivers, when it may be worth the risk to try and be Da man'!, LOL.


From my experience and the experience of others i've talked with, each engine has it's strong points, none are best at everything. Right now i'm running the Orion Wasp and it has been a fantastic engine, highly recommended! For ease of tune, the O.S. sets the mark, for durability and basically engine life span, the Novarossi based Mugen sets the mark. I would say the Fantom is priced well and may be a good choice for lite racing, but the ones i've tested are down on torque. Of course this is the earlier version, 02' and wouldn't be a factor on a slippery track. I'll stick with the wasp so far, it gives alot more power and rpm then an O.S., yet tunes "almost" as well. It costs less then the Mugen and is cheaper to rebiuld. The Wasp provides Far more torque and the about the same rpm as the fantom, from my testing........... But basically we're all lucky to have so many competitive choices and none are "wrong", or "bad" in the over $100 range......imo, Jim

[PJCruz]

Correct me if I am wrong, but aren't the Wasp engines basically "Trinity Picco" engines relabeled (or made) as Team Orion (with a new head/color)?

[pooldoc101]

Yes they are a picco based engine, just as RB, mugens are novarossi based engines. however , the company that contracts to have the engine built, will specify engine timing, crank specs, small differences that make them different. some companies go so far as to modify the motors to their specs. put a collari next to a rb, or a novarossi next to a mugen, you will see a striking similarity!

[Laterilus]

I agree with Winning edge designs on 2 counts: Yes, the first edition Fantoms are a bit low in the torque category. In order to get the most out of their low end, you need a better pipe setup like what the GT runs over what Losi puts on the XXXNT. The '03 editions however definitely do pump out more torque. It really seems to me they solved that problem..... I am however biased,:D I love these engines too much!
Secondly, He is right that you really can't go wrong with any high performance engine over the 100$ mark. They will all have their strong and weak points, but overall they should all accelerate the XXXNT decently and top out decently. The best driver wins the race, not the engine.

[pooldoc101]

So true Laterilus! I've been beat by almost every motor out there and beat them all in return! It is the driver and the motor is just support for your driving. I have nothing against any brand of motor, except temporarily, when they beat me! If I had the money I'd have all of them! Currently I have a OS-Cvr, A RB, and my new Wasp.
Pooldoc

[mx416]

With this warm weather it looks like I'll be able to break in my engine within a weak or two. It is a Trinity/Picco .12 How much should I richen up the needles from factory specks? I sold my other XXXNT a couple of years ago and got a new one this winter. Now I have to relearn adjusting the needles:(

[pooldoc101]

I would go by what the manual says.

[cave]

Got Speed
You gunna be at SRS today (Sat.)? I was there yesterday till 7 pm.
I now know what bluegroove is:). The Boeties stuck on that section of track. Too bad the entire track couldnt get that tire coating.
I think the Mugen is alittle too much for me. But I Like It!. I'll grow into this motor. Im going to pick up a better steering servo as soon as my federal return arrives along with a Drake kit.
This is such a killer addiction! So many cool people too. Seems like if your struglin someone will always come up and give you some poiters. Unlike draggin my alki quad where everyone covers up there machines till race time then become super Richard Craniums.
Hope to see you out there. Track opens at 12 noon.

tjraceing you up yet? OVAL? you going to bring both of them?
cave

[rc4me2]

...not the engine"

amen to that...

i set a track record locally that stood until the track closed 2 years ago w/ the slowest os cv out there

[rc4me2]

i have yet to see a response about this

will the losi dish wheels (gtx, lxt, etc...) fit the xxxnt????

thanks

[pooldoc101]

The gtx shares many parts with xxxnt, some of the guys at our track use buggy wheels on the front of their trucks.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

rc4me2-yes, some of the earlier truck wheels will fit the XXX; however the offset is different.

The different offset means that the old wheel-new truck would probably be too wide at a ROAR race.

[Got Speed]

cave- Im not going to be at SRS today. Im going to be out there for the next three saturdays though.

[RCRACER2471]

Is the XXT the same as the XNT parts wise? I know the XXT is electric but can its parts be used on the XNT?

[winning edge designs]

PJ, Pooldoc hit it pretty well on the head. I'll go further by saying there are really only a handfull of engine manufacturers. The Picco based/manufactured Trinity, Orion and Ofna's. The Novarossi based/manufactured, Mugen, HPI, RB, Serpent, Top and Collari. The O.S. engines aren't sold under anyone elses name, since O.S. prefers not to do so. Thunder Tiger has it's engines made in china, as Traxxas does. Rossi and Sirio are made in Italy, like the Novarossi engines are, but seperate companies....i'm told.

Basically, for the most part, everyone is either running an Picco, O.S., or Novarossi. But it's staggering to think that even combining all those companies doesn't put a dent in Traxxas' engine sales!


rc4me2, just get the XXXT, or NT wheels(same), wierd stuff will happen to the handling if you use the wider offset wheels.

rcracer2471, the XXt, uses some hardware, bearings, shock and diff parts that are the same, but nothing else..............Jim

[grimlock3000]

i was planning to run my truck tomorrow for the first time since i was able to get a gallon of wildcat fuel today. while checking over everything on my truck and making sure it was all tight, i stripped the differential lock nut, AAAARRRGGH :(

is there a better diff nut availible anywhere else?

[dkj-M3]

losi has finally upgraded the locknut with a single piece, they have shipped them already, i have it but have'nt used it yet.

[grimlock3000]

i found the hg diff nut:

http://www.1hg.com/images/1800.jpg

update, i did not know losi made a one piece. is this the right one:

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA2911#

time to place another order with horizon...

[dkj-M3]

might as well buy the hole diff nut washers & bolt package. It would be cheaper than just buying the nut.

[grimlock3000]

the full monster diff hard package shows that it comes with the locknut and seperate plastic piece?

[cave]

Well I managed to break a titanium ball stud tonight. That table top has a rough landing.
Is there anything stonger than titanium?
this racing deal is so addictive...
cave

[cave]

dkj-M3
Where did you get those machined diff nuts? The diff nut pictured on the Horizon link is a plastic cased stock one. Is it revised?


What is the part #
thanks

cave

[dkj-M3]

A-2909 its a rolling change, same part # as the old cheap locknut, my hobby shop had the part in stock, so i could see it. if you order online, you might want to make sure it has the new part.

[dkj-M3]

I tried out the light weight tranny & didn't like it. It might be ok if your running electric or if your engine is lacking on the bottom end, but if you have any where around 1hp stay away from it. it made my truck too fast. It would spool-up real quick, & make the truck spin-out. I took the light weight shaft out & put the stock one back in, but kept the light weight slipper plates on & all felt good, & I would have TQ'd if i had'nt hit the truck that was on its lid in front of me:rolleyes:. If your running any of the 1hp engines & need more torq just lean the bottem-end a little, & there you go.;)

[PJCruz]

dkj-M3: I just picked up the Losi alum slipper shaft.. though I passed on the lightweight slipper by Trinity. Haven't run it yet..

I took my truck apart yesterday AM in about 15 minutes (record for me).. and now begin the pleasant task of cleaning and rebuilding the truck as a "DE." I have most of the truck parts save for some of the graphite.. which I am a little weary to getting since my landings are not very pretty ;-) but getting better.

Just a note to any ordering the TiNitride shock shafts... they come INDIVIDUALLY.. NOT in pairs. I ordered a front and rear "set" and only ONE comes in each package.. so I need to order another "set" of front and rears. Argh!! I also have the threaded bodies.

Pete

[Got Speed]

The XXX-T and the XXXN-T do share some parts like the arms, bulkhead, shock tower, skid, shocks, etc. But the body, chassis, and quite a few other peices are different.

[pooldoc101]

I too have the light shaft in my truck, doesn't seem to cause any problems, but I've had it in from the start, never ran without it. I want to get the lightweight slipper pads, but 25 seems a little steep, thought of drilling some holes in the stock unit to lighten it up. Well I'm off to the races, gonna try out my new wasp!

[pooldoc101]

I too have the light shaft in my truck, doesn't seem to cause any problems, but I've had it in from the start, never ran without it. I want to get the lightweight slipper pads, but 25 seems a little steep, thought of drilling some holes in the stock unit to lighten it up. Well I'm off to the races, gonna try out my new wasp! Ran a couple more tanks thru it yesterday, at the high school, ran it easy for 1 1\5, then got on it for last half, and it runs real good! Not a whole lot quicker than my RB, but what I really liked was it would perform good at 190, not 240 like my RB.

[dkj-M3]

pooldoc101- let us know how the wasp is, i'm thinking about getting another nova or the wasp.

hey guys check this out- Graphite Piston and Sleeves? (http://www.khbracing.com/AG_Piston_Sleeve.htm) & check out the tech notes. If they make it for my nova, i'm going to try it.

[getsideways58]

cave how did you do last night? hows that mugen run? Do you know how that guy with the wasp did? it seemed real fast. by the way im the guy who was talking to you before the races that was the machinist. later.

[Scrad]

So I take it there is only the native racing battery box or use the stock losi?

[BlueBlaster01]

Originally posted by Scrad
So I take it there is only the native racing battery box or use the stock losi? Basically, I remember seeing soemthing online about a stock style battery box in the making...but its going to made of aluminum. I didn't save the link, and I can't find it!! :(

[RichA]

I just got a Trinity receiver pack for my XXX-NT and I'm not quite sure how to set my Integy 16X5 to charge it. I see in the instruction to set the charge current at .05, which is no problem. I'm not curtain what to set the other setting at.
# of Cells, Battery Capacity and Peak Adjustment
Any help sent my way is appreciated.


Rich

[cave]

getsideways58
I didnt win anything but just being out there was great I poped a ball cup on my second lap. Placed 4th in my second heat. In the third I changed tires and was real fast and I was accually keeping up with the fast guys till I got brave and tryed to pass on the straitaway We tapped tires and my truck ended up against the pipes. I HATE THOSE MONEY MAKERS. I found a way to break titanium ball studs in that crash. The guy was cool about it he appauligized for the roughness. I love this motor When I learn to drive better look out! :D
You both got to start racing. All you have to do is stay out of the fast guys way. Oh yea the Wasp was real quick! He cleared that triple with ease. The Mugen did great ran around 190° to 200°. That Mugen is fast. I can keep up with them in the straits but I dont want to destroy my truck off those jumps.
I bought a new streering servo and it didnt work with the JR so I got the airtronics one.

Any one can ya help me out? I got the Airytronics 94358 for my steering and I dont want to mess up the servo. On my stock JR reciever, I have 3 wires that plug into the slot. One is Brown, Red and Orange/Yellow. On the servo the wire colors are Black, Red and Blue. Red is in the middle. Is the Black the same as Brown? Or is BLUE the same as Brown?
Please help
cave:confused:

[pooldoc101]

My wasp didn't get a full workout today, 7 laps into first heat it started raining[we run 20 lap heats,25 lap a-main], but at the 7 lap point I had a 1\2 lap lead! Second place truck was a drake with a mugen, one of the trucks who "used" to pull me down the straights:D, so it looks like it might work out. The only thing it lacks is the instant accerleration, but I think thats the rotary carb, if anyone has a slide carb laying around thats not in use, let me know! I'm not a motor expert by any means, but I am pleased with the wasp, and if WED recomends it........well enough said! Pooldoc

[Scrad]

Cave, The Black wire is the same as the Brown on JR stuff.

RichA, You could charge up to 1.5 amps, but 1 or less is better. I'd also set your threshold at 2mv/cell. Try it that way and just check the batts and make sure they aren't getting hot. If they are not warm at all bump the mv/cell up a little. That pack should be 1100mah and 5 cells.

[winning edge designs]

Pooldoc, sounds like it's coming around for you? cool!

Rather then trying another $45 carb, try tuning the clutch a bit. We sometimes take about 6-8 coils off of the clutch spring, then bend a new loop in it to connect it back. This will give the engine about 2-3,000 more rpm before the clutch "hits"....Of course with my clutch stock and the Orion Wasp engine my truck pulls wheelies on high bite tracks already, can't imagine needing more. Of course my wheelies are assisted by bumps on an off-road track, your racing oval, right? So the clutch tip may be great for your deal?......Jim

[gcoolt]

Hi guys this is my first post. I was wonder what other hop-ups should I get for racing, I have XXX-NT SPORT I already have griphite front arms, failsafe unit, titanium turnbuckles, Hitec 625 servo for steering, MIP on-board temp, 5-cell battery pack w/charger, rechargeable batteries w/charger for transmitter and extra tires for the local track. I am also planning on buying a .12 engine for racing and i was wonder which ones would be good for between $100-$200, I want one with a pull-start because I don't want to buy the starter box, batteries and charger. Any input would be great.

1.) What other hop-ups would you suggest for racing?
2.) Whats a good .12 engine between $100-$200 for racing?
:)

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

RichA-Ni-mh batteries need a lower delta peak value than nicads. My Trinity Rx pack barely gets warm when charged with my Pit Bull.

[RichA]

Thanks for the info on charging the receiver pack.

I have another question for everybody. A friend and I are new to Nitro racing. From reading some of the post on this forum, I’ve gather to get a firm insert for the tires. My friend mention about using Shoe Goo to glue the insert to the rim (at least the rear inserts), to help keep the tire from growing when on power. I would like to hear your people views on doing this.

Thanks for any info sent my way.

[grimlock3000]

After a fun day of looking at my truck sitting on my desk (with a stripped diff nut) and cleaning my entire house, I ordered some more parts from Horizon. I ordered the HG diff nut so i can really be sure my diff will be working correctly this weekend and reduce problems down the road. I also picked up the Losi diff screw and hardware set to have as a replacment if needed. I have to pay $7 shipping everytime I order parts from Horizon, so i also bought some extra flat head screws for the bottom of the chassis along with a package of Ti ball studs since those were finally in stock.

I always hear people saying, "Just spray the thing with WD-40 after running to clean it!" When I clean my truck with WD-40, do I just spray the ENTIRE truck/chassis with it and then wipe off the excess where I can reach it?

[pooldoc101]

I think spraying it with wd-40 would make it a dirt magnet, athough i've never tryed it. I use nitro cleaner on motor, after its removed and a toothbrush on rest to get off dirt. I've also found a damp rag works well to remove the clay residue. WED- I've already removed some material from clutch shoes to get it to hit later and it worked well with my rb, I think I need to start over with new shoes and spring for my wasp, it probably needs a different "tune" than the rb. What do you think of the mip clutch? The slide carb is just something I want to try. One of the mugens that used to beat me is now for sale, but I prefer not to be like everybody else! I really appreciate all the help you've given me , my truck is much better for it! Pooldoc

[gcoolt]

Hey guys I was wondering if this engine is any good? Fantom .12 RPS Engine Part # FTMF12RPS

[pooldoc101]

gcoolt-One guy at the track swears his Fantom will blow everything out there away, but he doesn't bring it to prove it! Fantom motors have a great price tag, if you look back in this forum a couple days there is a discussion about them. RichA- my tires balloon up like dragster tires at high speed, if you find a way to cure this plz let me know! Cave- I feel your pain, our track has a wall around it that seems to suck trucks into it, which usually results in cartwheels[you know the usual result from these] I like to use the stock ballstuds cause the break off leaving the nut still on, it makes them easy to replace, and why spend the extra $ for titanium if there gonna break too?

[rc4me2]

are the linkages still pretty direct / efficient w/ a slide carb setup in the xxxnt?

thanks

also...the xxxnt takes a std threaded shaft, correct?

and for those running fantom engines...they do now make a rear exhaust, std thread. shaft eng w/ slide carb, right?

[pooldoc101]

rc4me2- the manual shows how to hook up a slide carb, doesn,t look any harder than a rotary, and yes the xxxnt takes a std threaded shaft engine, I would look at the Fantom website or stormer hobbies to see whats available.

[Got Speed]

grimlock3000- I don't clean it with WD-40. Here is what I have found to work very well(if you don't have an air compressor). Buy a spray bottle of simple green, bag of rags, a toothbrush or two, and a can of WD-40. Spray the p