Team Losi XXXNT forum v5.0

[cave]

winning edge designs

I hate to ask this but, 737? Sorry Jim but is this a Airtronics,Hytec or futaba.
By the way thanks Jim. I would of givin up on this adventure if not for you and a few others answering soooooo many of my questions.

Got Speed
Yea I raced last Sat. night. For my first race there Idid better than I thought I would. I popped a ball joint on the rear 1st heat. I cant remember how I done in the second heat but I did finish the race. The third heat was my unlucky race I broke a titanium ball stud. I wasnt that far off from the fast guys. I now have New boeties for racing. If I would of had some rear grip I think I coud of avoided that Pipe...heheeheeh yea rite

rcmaniac880

You wont regret it!!!!!!!!! Just remember this, This truck is so addictive all your friends are going to be jelous. lol:D You may want to read some of the previous pages here. There is alot of valuble Info here...
cave

[MikeWz]

Good choice. We all know the XNT is better than the GT. That's why we drive em right!?!? Not bashing the GT though. It does have all those world titles for a reason.

[CTurbo]

The diff. outdrives wear very fast creating a suspension binding problem. I would like to know if there is a more durable alternative to the losi spare parts. This part is not easy to replace and a little wear is enough to cause problems.

[Casper]

Just wanted to let all of you know something new. Lunsford just came out with a punisher titanium tie rod kit for the RTR XXXNT. Most of you are saying they already have a kit for the XXXNT. The difference is that the original kit was made for the short RPM ball cups for the superduty tie rods. This new kit will allow you to use the RTR ball cups with the superduty tie rids because this RTR XXXNT superduty kit has shorter rods that allow the use of the longer ball cups. I have been using the RTR ball cups on my XXXNT and have yet to break one (They are way stronger then the standard ball cups) and I have yet to pop one off either true to losi ball cups. I would really recommed these tie rods used with the losi RTR ball cups for all those that race. It is a good way to help ensure you finish all of your long A main races! I do not have the part number right now. I was just informed they arrived at my LHS but contact lunsford for the part number for the package. Yes this is better then those rocket city captured ends that I seem to break in the rear every other run!

[Casper]

CTurbo-- Losi had a bad batch of outdrives were the steel was not heat treated or something but they were WAY softer then normal and this caused rapid wear. I am not aware of anyone else that makes monster diff outdrives for the XXXNT. The latest batch should be better.

[Shady]

CTurbo-i have heard that they had a batch of outdrives that wore much quicker than they should since they were not heat treated right, most have already been used so you shouldn't hae anymore problems, also if your diff is good and the outdrives start to wear notches just switch the diff around and you have a new contact area

[grimlock3000]

my new order came in from horizon yesterday including a hd diff nut and new losi diff screw and hardware package. the screw and hardware package still came with the two piece nut so i was glad i ordered the hg nut as well. with the hg single piece alloy diff nut, adjustment feels MUCH better than the old two piece one ever did. i have no experience with the losi one piece but i expect it would be just as good as the hg and way better than the two piece setup.

now i just have to hope the weather stays warm and dry so i can run my truck this weekend...

[dgrobe2112]

This has allready been discussed.. but help me out.. so i dont gotta search like 400 pages...

On a diffrebuild.. which way does the concave washers go..

we got the diff screw
|-----------

washers
((((((((((((

and diff nut carrier
[-]

so it goes like this

|------ (((((((((((( or ))))))))))) [-]

Let me know.. the Losi website shows a spring..

[grimlock3000]

))))))))))) [-]


like that :)

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks alot.. I knew i would get a answer quicker here..

[dkj-M3]

Cturbo- Flat Drive Pin Assembly for Dog Bone (http://www.niftech.com/catalog/index.cgi?mode=LOSI) they stop the wear of the rounded pins.

dgrobe2112- ))))))))))))nut

[Casper]

dkj-M3-- I have you tried this? I would like to do this with my losi universals since I think this is a GREAT idea but it looks like a lot of work.

[fezzy]

Hi all, I got my Losi today!. Gave it a RIGHT good clean, It wasn't too bad to start with but I am obsessive and wanted to see what the truck was like. Its deceptively simple isn't it? It looks so simple but you realy end up fiddling with things a fair bit, Those tiny hex 1.5mm screws are going to strip in no time, Those even smaller ones on the battery box already have!! Any suitable screw kits on the market??. I just read the post about the drivecups, Thes ones on mine have visable wear, At least I know that it was a problem on the earlier kits.. I might see if I can blag some new ones :D

I haven't got my engine yet, Or the other bits and bats.. Basically just the chassis, Hopefully I can get it tomorrow. One of my mates who I mentioned got his today too at the same time as me.

[dkj-M3]

I have 2 race buddys that use them, I haven't tried them yet. i'll ask'em this Sat how they put'em on. but i do know they work, i replaced my outdrives about the same time one of them started using the new pins & his shows almost no sign of wear, compared to mine.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. the Hex's on the bottom of the chassis strip pretty easy.. make sure you clean them out of dirt before you try to take them out.. of course..

I got one complaint of this truck.. why did they decide to put this center brace on the servo.. there should be a simpler way to remove and replace the steering servo.. i hate having to remove over 10 screws just to take out my steering servo.. OR am i doing it wrong.. you guys will prolly laugh at me..

But i take out the center brace.. and the gas tank just to remove my steering servo.. is there an easier way??

[dkj-M3]

dgrobe2112- I used to do the same thing before my buddy said what the heck i'm doing. Its still 10 screws but easier, don't remove the center brace, just remove the 4 screws that hold the servo in place & slide the servo out, after taking the front end off.

[dgrobe2112]

??:confused: ?? take the front end off?? you mean the 2 top screws right behind the shock tower.. and what else??

[dkj-M3]

& the 4 on the skid plate not the bumper

[CTurbo]

Maybe the outdrives only will do the trick because of its hardened material.

[fezzy]

What sizes are these hexes?? Imperial or Metric?:confused:

[BlueBlaster01]

Native Racing makes a center brace that allows easy access to the gas tank and servo. So you don't have to nearly strip the car just to clean, or replace a part.

www.nativeracing.com

My outdrives are just starting to form tiny grooves, will this cause a problem? BTW: Only have 1 gal. through.

[Casper]

fezz-- Most all of the screws on this car are standard. The bottom screws use a 1/16th allen wrench. You NEED to invest in a good wrench. The Hudy and the MIP/Thorp wrenches are the best IMO. Assocaite, Losi, or any other wrench with a ground tool steel tip will do a good job and you should not have a problem stripping these screws.

dkj-M3-- Any info you can give me on these will be helpful. I have wanted to do this for while but affraid it will be too difficult and did not want to invest in all the tools.

[fezzy]

Thanks for that Casper. I just have another quick question, The little foam donuts that go on theball studs under the ballcups of each end of the turnbuckles.. What do they do exactly? I have 1 or 2 missing.

[RCRACER2471]

Man im more surprised about this car more than ever. Many of you said the arms are weak which havent seemed to be a problem for me yet. Ive been going off jumps as big as 2 or 3 feet high with a gradual slope. So why are a lot of you saying they break so easily...Ive been a little crazy with my car in the past couple of days and nothin has broke yet. BTW, i asked this before but no one answered. When do i know i need a diff rebuild??? thanx

[BlueBlaster01]

Originally posted by fezzy
Thanks for that Casper. I just have another quick question, The little foam donuts that go on theball studs under the ballcups of each end of the turnbuckles.. What do they do exactly? I have 1 or 2 missing.

I asked the same ? a while back so I can answer your ? The foam donuts help keep dirt etc... out of the ballcups. :p

Anyone know the Drake (Fury NT) Body Part #?

[Casper]

fezz-- The foam things are to help keep dirt and grim out of the ball cups to help them last longer. I do not run them and have not had a problem related to not running them so it is not a big deal.

RCRACER2471-- When the diff does not operate smoothly you should rebuild it. If it feels gritty this is when it needs to be rebuilt. As long as it is still still feels smooth it is good to go.

[fezzy]

Thanks guys, Thats exactly what I thought they where for... Seem abit odd why they are on though, The chances of enough dirt getting in to hinder the performance is very minimal.

I refilled my shocks with 40wt, Its as close to 30-35 as I had.. Does feel a little stiff but the proof is in the pudding :D.

[gcoolt]

Anyone know the Drake (Fury NT) Body Part #?

A-8026 Fury Truck Body w/Masks (XXX-T) $19.00

[BlueBlaster01]

gcoolt, I was using the name off a E-Bay Auction. It said Fury NT Body from Drake Edition. I was under the impression that the XXX-T bodys did not fit because the XXX-NT is nitro (obviously)

Is there another name for the Drake Edition Body? Like I said, I was going by the E-bay auction.

[pooldoc101]

I see in your part # ,it says xxx-t, dont get that body, it wont fit, this is the xxx=nt thread! The bodies are not the same.

[BlueBlaster01]

This is the only other XXX-NT body I could find on the Team Losi Site.
A-8025 Triton_NT Truck Body w/Masks (XXX-NT)

I'm Assuming that this is the Drake Edition. Can anyone confirm this. Thanks! Just don't want to get the wrong body style custom painted. That wouldn't be cool.

[winning edge designs]

The Triton will be a good body, for the futuristic looks, or if you need to clear a rear exhaust header and pipe (it is designed mostly for clearance). A8025 is correct. They also have the standard XXX-NT body, A8024 and also a Fury-NT, but no part number for the Fury-NT? It isn't in my catalogue from Losi either....hmmmm.

Cave, I'm using mostly Airtronics, but sometimes Futaba. Those are Air servos listed in my post, sorry. I pick depending what's on sale at the time, heh. I tried some hitec stuff, but got tired of the 3 or 4 time a year repairs. They have excellent support though, I just prefer to use a brand that doesn't need as much support for a few dollars more.


A thing that may put off a diff rebiuld and outdrive replacement is to flip the diff inside the case. This will put a fresh edge on the drive side, but of course the cupped side will act under braking, but less critical then.....especially for club races and to save $20 or so for a few more weeks?...................Jim

[grimlock3000]

The way my diff is setup now, when I lock the slipper and then hold the spur and right tire, the l eft wheel is very hard to turn and only starts moving right before I expect the spur gear to take the skin off my thumb. When it DOES move, it snaps forward. If I hold either tire and release the spur, the opposite tire will be quite easy to spin around but if I stop applying turning pressure, the wheel will stop right away. If I do this and really give the tire a good fast spin, it will only move for another 1 second or so before stopping. My slipper is backed out 4.5 turns out from lockdown and definitely slips before the diff skips while still have a good ammount of resistence. I think this is correct? Anyway, how do I know when the diff is TOO tight?

[PJCruz]

I am rebuilding my diff and just picked up the HG diff nut and YES it is VERY SOLID.. but it just occured to me.. it's a metal deal.. with a metal screw... should I use threadlock? Or will it hold together since it's a "lock nut."

Also, I THINK I may have installed the washers in my diff BACKWARDS... I'm going to check it out.. but was wondering if that will matter at all... I mean the spacing is the same.. just oriented in a different direction.

Pete

[BlueBlaster01]

Answered My own question again!

A8027 FURY-NT TRUCK BODY: XXX-NT 21.95
:p

[grimlock3000]

"it's a metal deal.. with a metal screw... should I use threadlock?"

i used a bit of threadlock to make sure the nut stays put. to prevent any excess from getting around any area of the diff when applied, i threaded the diff nut on half a turn, then place a bit of lock compound at the top of the diff screw and threaded the diff nut on the rest of the way. there could be a better way but this made sense to me at the time.

[MikeWz]

Blueblaster. I believe that the Triton is the body used on the drake.

[dkj-M3]

The Triton is not the Drake (Fury body), but it looks like you found the right one.

[LosiRacer911]

hey. i cant get my throttle right. When i have it so it idles right, it wont go to WOT. vice versa on the WOT. Also ive noticed that when it i have the idle right the engine gets real hot, but my high and low are at O.S. settings (.12 CV). Ive been fooling with it for about a week and a half and still cant get the collars to match up perfectly so it will idle and give WOT.

[pooldoc101]

Which hole in servo arm are you using? Try going to far outside hole, it will give you more travel. Also try leaving it set for wot, and adjusting idle with idle screw.

[winning edge designs]

losiracer911, do you have end point adjustments on your transmitter? If so, recheck the settings, low end point is brake side and high end point is throttle wide open side. If not go to a hole further out on the servo arm, or closer in on the carb arm. Then reset the linkage.


There are three gas truck bodies, The origional and now RTR, XXX-NT body is A8024, the Triton XXX-NT body is A8025 and the Fury NT is A8026....................Jim

[fezzy]

Hi guys, I was just lookin for some advice on tyres.. I want a pair for the rear, Just basically as a good all round thrashing tyre for practicing.. Mostly to be used on tarmac, but some dirt use too. I was looking into getting some PL Dirt Hawg II's because I had good experience with them on my old NMT, I have been told the Gladiators are also very good though, My LHS doesn't have any in though. I was also considering the Dirt Works tyre, Are they any good??.

Its either going to be the Dirt Hawg II's or the Dirt Works as thats what my LHS has in stock, They will be used with the standard sport losi ribs.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Man im more surprised about this car more than ever. Many of you said the arms are weak which havent seemed to be a problem for me yet. Ive been going off jumps as big as 2 or 3 feet high with a gradual slope. So why are a lot of you saying they break so easily...Ive been a little crazy with my car in the past couple of days and nothin has broke yet. BTW, i asked this before but no one answered. When do i know i need a diff rebuild??? thanx

I don't know who said that but they arn't any weaker than other 1/10th scale truck arms. I have only broken one in a full speed accident at the end of the straightaway.

[Got Speed]

Aaron Waldron- Are you racing at the Cactus Classic?

[maxman142001]

Gotspeed-WOW! Cactus was awesome(except no nitro)! How about those B4s. They actully gave the xxx some heck! Cavaleri was on fire. What did you think about Cactus?:)

[BlueBlaster01]

Originally posted by winning edge designs

Fury NT is A8026

The Fury NT Body is A-8027
Fury-NT Truck Body: XXX-NT - LOS A8027
(Right From Ehobbies.com)

[Casper]

Aaron is racing at the Cactus this weekend. Anybody have results from qualifying?

[Got Speed]

Casper- I though so. I heard them calling an aaron waldron so I wodered if he was the same one as on here.

maxman142001- Yea it was awesome. The track was alot better than last years, IMO. Pretty good speed yet still awesome jumps. I only stayed till about 4pm. But Ill be there in the morning for about hour to see if I won any of the raffle prizes, lol.:) Did you end up driving afterwards?

[RichA]

I have some question for anybody using the XXX-NT for road course use.

I have gotten some of the Pro-Line Speed Hawg tires and Trinity Bomb One inserts. My questions are, do you use the inserts that came with the S/H or do you use the B/O inserts? If you do use the B/O inserts, do you cut them down to the same size as the inserts that come with the S/H?
I’ve mounted the tires using the B/O inserts and it makes for a very firm tire, compared to the S/H inserts.
Which brings up another question, would I want to use B/O on all four tires or have the inserts on the front tires softer (say using S/H inserts) so that it might have more grip?

This is all new to me, so I hope that what I’m saying here makes scene to someone who has been using the Speed Hawg tires.

[cave]

Anyone have any solutions to battery pack life? I got this high speed servo thats great but now I got limited run time.
Ive got 2 Team Orion Pro 1100 receiver pack batteries.

Would a trinity pack work longer?

Output of my charger is 9.6V, 70 mA, 6.0(4.8)V, 70(90)mA

I charge these for an hour and a half but it seems like the throttle works fine for 8 to 10 minutes but after that the steering gets week. My throttle still works ok. I would think that both would quit working

Any one know a way to regulate the draw of of my servo?

This may just be the down side of haveing a powerfull steering servo huh

cave

[pooldoc101]

Cave- I use a trinity receiver pack, metal hydride batteries. I have 2 digital servos in truck,a HS5945 for steering and a HS5625 for throttle, never had any run time problems. I use a prophet plus charger set at 1 amp. They last through a day of racing,2-3 heats and a main, with no problem. Digital servos are supposed to be power hungry, but the trinity pack can handle it. Are your orions nicad? The ones i've seen are, thats why their less money. I use metal hydtide for several reasons,1 improved run times,2 no memory problems. If your orions are nicads, they may have developed a memory, if your not discharging them. I would try a trinity pack. Not that I like trinity, I think their stuff is overpriced, but in this case i've found it's worth it. IMO Pooldoc

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

cave-an hour and a half at 70ma into an 1100mah battery pack equals a seriously undercharged pack!

1100mah=(T-in hours)(1.5)(70ma)
T=10.5 hours

I'm VERY skeptical of the use of the "overnight charger" for charging batteries much over 600mah. As the cell capacity (mah) gets larger, those under 100 mah charge rates approach the trickle charge current for the cell-note that the trickle charge current does not charge the cell(s), it only maintains the charge that is in the cells.

I came to nitro from the E-power side of the car hobby, and did R/C planes B4 that. I have 2 Astro-Flight nicad chargers, one of which can peak detect charge a single cell-great for the glo-lighter! When I got my Trinity Ni-mh Rx pack I bought a Pit Bull by Competition Electronics.

The growing availability of high capacity AA Ni-mh cells means that I can peak charge Ni-mh cells in my Tx also.

[winning edge designs]

blueblaster, thanks for catching my error, typed in the incorrect info, exactly what I was trying to correct...dough!

Cave, I use the 1100 Orion packs, they are Ni-mh, as the trinity packs are, as well as less money. xxxOS12CVRnt set it straight explaining how slowly and inefficiently the wall chargers work for our purpose... I also use a pit bull set between .8 and 1.0 amp(depending on time), with a .024 cutoff and a futaba lead adapter in the alligator clips.....Jim

[Scrad]

I just installed a metal geared servo in my truck and at WOT I notice it will glitch. Has anyone noticed this on there trucks? I was going to put the rubber grommet on the eyelets and then put a piece of servo tape underneath the servo for some cushion. I'm guessing the vibration at high RPM's is causing the problem.

[Got Speed]

cave- I use the orion pack and don't have any problems with it. Your problem is your charge rate. It will take a long time at only 70mah. NiMhs don't like to be trickle charged either. I charge mine at 1 amp for about 1 1/2 hours.

Aaron- You go called for one of the prizes(pretty close to one of the first called), but you wern't there. :( Aww.

[MikeWz]

Try shrink wrapping all of your metal pushrods. IF they get too close to the wheel, the vibrations from it spinning and also from it being metal will cause your radio to glitch

[cave]

As usual you all have helped out Thanks everyone. Looks like Im buyin a better charger:D
cave

[Laterilus]

cave, instead of buying expensive batt. packs from trinity, I suggest going to www.onlybatterypacks.com. They make the same things for much less. I use their 1100 NiMH packs and haven't had any problems with them. Theirs are only 19$. I use a MRC Superbrain to charge them.

[BlueBlaster01]

While you all are on the topic of batterys...

I'm totally new to this stuff...
What Nimh pack would I use off that site? (onlybatterypacks.com)
What Charger would I need? (most inexspensive that is decent)
How do you charge them? Like does it say for how long? :p Thanks again guys, I'm learning a lot.

[PJCruz]

Does anyone have a clue what the tiny stub on the front bulkhead is there for? Losi is a pretty practical company.. so it must serve a purpose... any ideas.

I don't think I can mount my personal transponder in there.. and run the wire out the top to the rx box... the bellcranks might get caught in the transponder. Any clue guys?

Thanks
Peter

[speedydave]

If I'm thinking of the thing you're thinking of, it's probably what is used to clip in the body on the XXX, since I'm pretty sure they use the same bulkhead.

[cave]

My battery packs came with nothing. I didnt even think to ask how long to charge them. i figured that the wall charger would automatically stop when the packs were fully charged. Yea right. You would think there would be something in refrerence to time for charging the rx packs on the charger I got. Oh well, live and learn
Thanks Laterilus. I got a place called Batteries Plus near me and they make batteries NNMH and Metal hydride. That will probley be my next stop. The people there say the can help me out I just need to come on in.

Got Speed Nice racing huh. Watching those guys drive was great. Do you know when there going to put up the fence? That gunna suck.
cave

[PJCruz]

Ahhh.. that MUST be it.... I think all the XXX cars share that front clip. It didn't even occur to me.

Thanks dude

Pete

[Got Speed]

PJCruz- It is for a swaybar. Look at the back of the suspension arm and you will see a hole where one side attaches. The rear also has this hole in the front of the arm and two extra holes on the shock tower for a swaybar.

cave- Yea, it was some great racing. I only saw two of the A-Mains before church yesterday but man they were fast. LOL I guess it helps them alot though too when there is a blue groove track swept clean enough to eat on. :p Do you know who ryan mayfield is? He is a regular local racer. Well he qualified first in the 2wd expert mod. Right in front of Brian Kinwald, Matt Francis, Travis Amezcua(sp?), Mark Pavidis, etc. He ended up in fifth, I think it was, after some door-to-door driving with Brian Kinwald.
There is some pretty close racing in those A-Mains. :cool: I was suprised at how rutted and cracked the surface was this year. Well it, somewhat, made up for the swept blue groove surface, lol.
Anyway, Ill be racing next week. Will you be out there?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
My battery packs came with nothing. I didnt even think to ask how long to charge them. i figured that the wall charger would automatically stop when the packs were fully charged. Yea right. You would think there would be something in refrerence to time for charging the rx packs on the charger I got. Oh well, live and learn
Thanks Laterilus. I got a place called Batteries Plus near me and they make batteries NNMH and Metal hydride. That will probley be my next stop. The people there say the can help me out I just need to come on in.

Got Speed Nice racing huh. Watching those guys drive was great. Do you know when there going to put up the fence? That gunna suck.
cave

Oh, I forgot. :rolleyes:

Those orion packs are really the same thing as what is in the trinity packs. If you don't want to spend a load of money on a charger the MRC Superbrain 959 is a good way to go. It is only $47 at tower hobbies and has plenty of features for anything you need to charge for nitro racing and has enough features to race electric with.

[dgrobe2112]

First off, i would like to thank everyone in this section for all the information and help i have gotten from you guys, Cave, Gotspeed, all yall.. i got my diff put back togehter with the help of you guys and my truck has never been better.. :D

BTW.. What do you all think of the way losi did the rear arms on this?? With a set screw in the front of the rear pivot block?? I dont like this.. buz the only think holding in those pins is the battery box.. now if the battery box is to break.. those pins could come out.. and you could lose those.. Is there any longer pins i could buy and use E-clips on there?? just curious

Thanks

[Casper]

You would not want to put longer pins in. Those would be pretty long and I am not sure if you would want to put e-clips on these. If you get the trinity alum rear block you will have set screws that will hold the hinge pins in place if the battery box breaks. This will give you some assurance that everything will stay put and you will not loose the pins! You can do this with the graphite block too. Just drill some holes for some set screws in the top of the block and put some set screws in to keep the pins in place.

[dgrobe2112]

Good idea.. is this stuff you learn on your own?? or what?? cuz it doesnt say anything like that in the book..

[Casper]

Just keep your eyes and ears open. You do this stuff long enough and you learn the tricks! :)

[banditwing]

Hey, just to point out a good charger for everybody- The Dynamite Prophet Plus AC/DC. I have it, I use it for my elec packs and my reciever pack and has had no problem whatsoever. The only thing is to make sure to pick up some spare fuses at Radio Shack. If you can find a 7.5 amp fuse then great, but if you can't 5 amp s-p-a-d-e (the filter blocks the word for some reason) fuses work well. (I think it was just the stock fuse that was weak, cause I havent blown a 5 amp fuse yet! Knock on wood.) For $40 it has a 1,2, and 4 amp charge rate, charges nimh and nicd, has a voltemeter plug in spot, is a peak charger, and comes with an adapter to charge radio packs, so you dont have to make your own.

-Banditwing

[banditwing]

Hey, just to point out a good charger for everybody- The Dynamite Prophet Plus AC/DC. I have it, I use it for my elec packs and my reciever pack and has had no problem whatsoever. The only thing is to make sure to pick up some spare fuses at Radio Shack. If you can find a 7.5 amp fuse then great, but if you can't 5 amp s-p-a-d-e (the filter blocks the word for some reason) fuses work well. (I think it was just the stock fuse that was weak, cause I havent blown a 5 amp fuse yet! Knock on wood.) For $40 it has a 1,2, and 4 amp charge rate, charges nimh and nicd, has a voltemeter plug in spot, is a peak charger, and comes with an adapter to charge radio packs, so you dont have to make your own.

-Banditwing

[dmann33]

I have been using Parma captured ends on my rear lunsford turnbuckles. I want to switch to the Traxxas captured ends, but they have a shorter body and can be tough to reach the holes. I have read some threads on here that say you can use these shorter rod ends by placing the studs/bolts on the inside holes.

My question is.... can't you just use a longer turnbuckle? The ones I found on my car are 2.5", but I think they are supposed to be longer. Does anyone know what the proper/standard length of these turnbuckles are for the xxxnt? According to Lunsford's site xxxnt Kit comes with a pair of 2 7/8" rods, but I can not find this size outside of the kit? Does anyone run these ends, if so, how long are your rods? Any other advice would be helpful.

Many thanks.

[Casper]

You can run the super duty tie rods. This kit has rods that are a little longer becasue they were designed to be used with the shorter RPM superduty ball cups but they work with the traxxas ball ends also. I do recommend running the new superduty RTR tirods with the RTR ball cups and titainium ball studs. This setup has proven to be very tough and I have yet to pop a ball cup or break a ball cup after 3 big even races. I was breaking the Parma/rocket city ball ends every other run before going with the RTR ball cups and superduty rods!

[gcoolt]

I just brought a complete graphite set for my car and it came with a graphite rear pivot block. Should I install that one of blow $30 more dollars on the trinity one?
:confused:

[Casper]

I run the alum one but Adam Drake still runs the graphite block. If it is good enough for him it should be for you. If you do break the graphite one then get an alum one. Drake runs for Trinity so he can run that one if he wanted to but still uses the graphite one.

[jdm3849]

Personally, I would stick with the graphite. because if you manage to break a ballstud off in it, it will be much cheaper to replace than an aluminum one. Not to mention you save some weight.


I think my clutch is worn on my truck, I have to give it a good amount of throttle to make it go. (almost 2 gallons old)
What should I buy? Could you give me a link? thanks. i think I'll get the stock one, but if there is a fairly cheap durable performance inceasing clutch I would like to know.

If I were to get a new air filter over the stock one that comes with the sport, would I notice a performance increase (ex: motor saver filter)?

[dmann33]

Casper - Thank you.

But do you know where I can find just a pair of the Super Duties for the Rear w/o buying the entire set? If so, how long are your rear super duties? (either mm or inches)

Thanks

[AreCee]

Originally posted by PJCruz
Does anyone have a clue what the tiny stub on the front bulkhead is there for? Losi is a pretty practical company.. so it must serve a purpose... any ideas.

I don't think I can mount my personal transponder in there.. and run the wire out the top to the rx box... the bellcranks might get caught in the transponder. Any clue guys?

Thanks
Peter

That's the front body post for the XXX Buggy. The bulkheads are made from the same mold for the XXX, XXX-T and XXX-NT.
The difference is in the shock towers.

Some of the people using the XXX-T place the AMB transponder on one of the servo holder screws, that keeps it forward but not so far forward where it can be damaged.

[Casper]

# 11073 2 1/2" Super Duty Titanium Turnbuckles $12.00 2/pkg.


This is the part number for the super duty rods if you want to use the RTR ball cups like I suggested. I do not have the part number for the longer tie rods for use with the shorter ends like the traxxas captured ends. You can contact Lunsford directly for the part number of the longer pair package. klunsford@lunsfordracing.com This is how I got the above information. They will get back to you in about 24 hours. There support is excellent.

[PJCruz]

Thanks guys. You all offer tremendous feedback and info always.

AreCee, what servo hole are you referring too?? I would like to get that transponder mounted in there. I had used a spare piece of lexan and made a "clamp/cover" over the "X" section on the chassis brace.. and velcro'd the transponder below it. Works great.. but looks kinda hack. So I'd love to find another spot. I'd rather mount it more forward than INSIDE the rx box.

Anyways.. thanks again

Pete

[MikeWz]

JDM-get this one http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/services/advanceresultsDetail.asp?strProd=CLUTCH&strSearchType=ALL&strInCategory=ALL&strInManufacturer=MIP&tag=asrch

It's the 2-n-1 clutch for the GTX. I know it says GTX but it's the one for the XXX-NT too. It's not a huge difference, but it does make a bit of difference when set up the trailing edge I belive.

[winning edge designs]

jdm, I use the stock clutch with great success. It seems to be the best bang for the buck so far. Mine also seem to last about 1 and 1/2 to 2 gallons of fuel as well.

dmann33, I use the new Proline captured ballcups, made for the T maxx, with superduty turnbluckles..these things will NEVER break!!! I used 2 and 7/8 and 2 and 1/2 pairs to have adjustment possibilities..........Jim

[AreCee]

Originally posted by PJCruz
Thanks guys. You all offer tremendous feedback and info always.

AreCee, what servo hole are you referring too?? I would like to get that transponder mounted in there. I had used a spare piece of lexan and made a "clamp/cover" over the "X" section on the chassis brace.. and velcro'd the transponder below it. Works great.. but looks kinda hack. So I'd love to find another spot. I'd rather mount it more forward than INSIDE the rx box.

Anyways.. thanks again

Pete

Look on the center brace on either side of the servo holder section. You'll see a place where you can use a 4-40 screw to secure the transponder with a spacer underneath it so that it sits right over the servo. Route the wire behind the servo into the Rx box so it doesn't snag. You can make a fuel deflector out of scrap lexan, bend it into an L shape and servo tape it on the X just below the transponder. There you have a securely fastened forward mounted transponder protected by a fuel shield.

[grimlock3000]

my truck is now 100% finished after i spent some time this weekend painting and trimming the body:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/Pict0017.jpg

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/Pict0018.jpg

while it may not look like much, this body turned out better than the last three bodies i have done. my body painting and trimming skills seem to be progessing quite slow :p

[Got Speed]

dgrobe2112- I like the design. More than if they would have used E-clips. They could come out if the batt box falls off but I don't see that as a problem unless you plan on running with the batt box dragging behind, lol. You can drill a hole in the pivot block and put a set screw in it(like casper said), and file a flat spot on the hinge pins so that you don't ever have to worry about e-clips. I hate e-clips, I wish they would do away with the e-clip design. The more time you spend with these things the easier it seems idea pop into your head, lol. :p

dmann33- Yes you can use the traxxas ends with the stock turnbuckles. But you do have to use the inside holes. This does get rid of the adjustability there(most of the time that is not something that needs adjusted though). But it is best to get the 2 7/8" rod for the rear.

gcoolt- I would say keep the graphite block. If you break it, then buy the aluminum one. I have never broken a graphite pivot block.

jdm3849- You probably won't notice much if any of a performance increase. I would stick with the stock one. I run the stock O.S. filter with no complaints. You clutch is worn by now. You should probably pick up a stock one or an MIP clutch. The only difference is that the MIP clutch is easier to adjust.

AreCee- Are you sure it isn't for a swaybar? I don't know about the buggys but where else would the swaybar mount. I hope it wouldn't be the two holes in front. The graphite isn't very thick there. I would think it would get stripped very easily there.

[jdm3849]

I stripped all of my motor mount screws with good tools, am I going to have to buy the hole motor mount set just for the screws? Also, are motor saver air filters low maitnence? If I am just going to be jumping and running through rough terrain what springs/oil should I use? I have heard people say that by putting an in-line fuel filter you will get better fuel mileage, is that true? How does one "tune" a clutch such as the MIP 2 n 1? If i were to put masher 2000's on my Losi would my chassis be able to bottom out? Would it make my truck more resistant to breakage upon landing? How do I remove the paint on my sport pipe so that it is silver? will it look stupid if its silver? because now it is silver in spots from the pull start handle and had scratches all over from rocks. Also Can i get the blue off of the head on my engine? I heard somewhere to use oven cleaner, but dont know the steps after that.


Lotta questions and I hope you can answer them,

Thanks, Mike

[cave]

gcoolt
I would spend the 30.oo bucks for the Trinity rear pivot block.
1. Its easier to chnge a broken "A" arm than it is to change a plastic or graphite pivot block.
2.Its quicker to change the "A" arm than the pivot block.
3. It looks cool with the blue anodized pivot block.
OK the last one is an opinion.
I broke the stock plastick one right out of the box. It was a pain to change it out. I got on here and Some one gave me the link to buy the Trinity block and that was all I needed. I have taken some nasty hits and some carwheels from Well you know. The block itself is OK.
Graphite is lighter than aluminum. If you are a perfect driver and the people you race with are close to perfect, go ahead and get the graphite block.
cave

[Got Speed]

jdm3849- Go to a hardware store or the LHS and you can pick up 4 new screws for it. You don't need to buy the motor mounts just for the screws. You have to clean and oil the motor savers just as often as any other filter. I would say go with something like Orange springs(maybe stiffer) and 40wt. oil. It depends on how ruff it is. A fuel filter won't give you better mileage. You will run for a few seconds longer though, due really only because the fuel filter holds more fuel in it than the fuel line does. And if it flips it will run longer upside-down. It can be tuned by adding weights that come with it, shaving part of the clutch off, or by adding softer or stiffer springs. You tune it to get it to engage sooner or later. The lighter the clutch or the softer the spring the earlier it will engage, and vise-versa. Masher 2000s won't keep you from bottoming out. They give a little more ground clearence but you can still bottom out just about as easily. The mashers have a really aggressive tread. If you arn't running in really soft stuff you might want to consider something like the mulchers. You can sand the black off the pipe with a fine grit sand paper. Once it is all off you can polish it with some steel wool and then some aluminum polish. You can take anodizing off with non-scented oven cleaner like original easy off. You have to spray it on, and let it sit for about 10 minutes. After that you can wipe it off with a rag. Some anodizing is harder to get of than others and will need to be sanded instead of wiped. Hope that helped. :)

Cave- Are you going to be at SRS saturday?

[Casper]

Originally posted by Got Speed
AreCee- Are you sure it isn't for a swaybar? I don't know about the buggys but where else would the swaybar mount. I hope it wouldn't be the two holes in front. The graphite isn't very thick there. I would think it would get stripped very easily there.

Actually on the XXX series of cars you need a special front pivot brace for the sway bar. It has a groove in it for holding the sway bar that is then attched to the arms. I have not figured out what the two holes in the front of the nose plate are.

[akprice]

whadup guys! i haven't posted in a while cause everything has been running great til the other day. i was running it in the parking lot and when it ran out of fuel and leaned out it jolted right into a curb breaking my front a arm and bending a turnbuckle. i got a new a arm and bent the turnbuckle back straight. i am now looking to get some titanium turnbuckles. is there a difference between the titanium ones in the drake and the lunsford ones? i found some drake ones on ebay for like $20 and just want to make sure they will do the job. are the titanium ones definitely the way to go or should i just stay stock? i have heard a debate on this before. thanks guys!

[Casper]

Titanium is the way to go. They will be way stronger and more druable. The Drake ones ARE LUNSFORD. You might notice if you look at a Drake parts list Losi does not sell these tie rods under a Losi header. They are just punisher series Lunsford tie rods. The only other thing you might want to consider is lunsford super duty tie rods. These will fit on your RTR ball cups. If you get the punisher series tie rods you will need some standard losi ball cups or some RPM ball cups since the tie rods a a little smaller in dia.

[akprice]

thanks casper. the tie rods come with the ball cups. now, i have the mip bj ball ends of my truck right now. will these ball cups fit onto those and will they be snug?

[dgrobe2112]

Drake kit are lunsford punishers.. same to be said in the Matt Francis kit and the Kinwald kit.. which is great.. a 35 dollar set of titanium tie rods.. in the kit.. means big savings..

BTW by bending back your current tie rod.. of course you will affect handling.. and also.. that makes a weak point in the tierod.. so if you happen to be racing and cartwheel, or hit the wall with that side of the truck.. that tierod, will most likely break the next time instead of bending again..

[dgrobe2112]

man you guys reply fast.. so i guess 2 sets of the same info are good.. Dont know about the MIP ball ends.. i usually buy a new set of RPM's cuz its like 6 bux and you get a sure fit.. and if you ever bend or break one of your lunsford.. and need a quick replacement.. you still have the ball ends on your stock ones..

[akprice]

that's why i am looking to get some titanium ones. i bent it back good enough that the handling is fine, but you are right...it's just a matter of time before that sucker breaks.

[akprice]

dgrobe - i guess i mean the ball studs.?. the part that screws into the chassis. i have rpm's on my stock tie rods and the ones i am looking at getting come with ball cups to screw on the tie rods. i had bought some mip bj ball studs and have those installed in the truck. i assume that these ball cups will fit on there. the rpms did. sorry about the lack of terminology.

[speedydave]

Hey guys. I'm thinking about making the switch from my FTGT(which is getting kind of worn out) to a XXXNT. I'll be picking up a Drake, and an OS .12 TR engine for it. I know the Drake comes with tons of hopups, but are there any hopups you'd recommend, or tips you have for me? I'm talking about things more for durability than performance. So far, I'm planning on getting a pack(4 count) of long Robinson titanium ball studs for the front end, GS captured ball links for the rear end, RPM ball cups for the front, Trinity rear pivot block, and I've been tossing around the idea of the Trinity brake hub(adapter...it was basically a necessity for my GT, but I don't know about the XXXNT). Also, I've been hearing that the brakes on the XXXNT are a little lacking, due to the long, flexible brake wire, and the relatively small brake disc. Any truth to this? I assume my Airtronics 94737Z should be fine for throttle/brake(more concerned about the brake), but I'd just like to make sure. Thanks! :D

[dgrobe2112]

Its cool.. my bad for not realizing what you were saying.. Most ball cups will be universal.. unless you change the size of the ball end... if your RPM's fit on these ball studs.. then for sure the Losi will fit.. i am assuming you are talking about the tierods on Ebay?? those will fit, if your RPM fit..

[dgrobe2112]

aluminum rear pivot block.. and front as well.. not really too much to upgrade.. a aluminum top shaft.. if you want.. a robinson racing diff gear.. but really i cant think of anything else.. also.. use some Associated Carbide diff balls.. i heard those were pretty good.. but the truck is pretty bullet proof.. with the exception of the rear pivot block.. quoting others.. its easier to change a broken arm.. than it is to change a broken pivot block..

[Casper]

Not really a performance or a durability upgrade but the trinity alum shock collars are a ton easier to use then the losi plastic ones. I have not had any issues with my stock brake hub so far. The only issues with the brake is the stock plastic clips break but the drake comes with alum brake clips so this is no longer an issue. The XXXNT has tons of brakes. I have to turn the brakes way down on my radio to take it away so I am not sure who told you this but I can assure you it is false. The 737 is a great throttle brake servo for this car. It is what Drake himself uses as well as Ryan Cavalieri. Normal ball cups will fit the BJ ball ends just fine.

[akprice]

hey casper - i have been having a hard time getting my brakes to perform better. i would like to get a better stopping distance, cause right now it takes 10 to 15 feet for the truck to stop. i have messed with the collar setting but nothing seems to work. any suggestions?

[Casper]

From previous experience this is because the brake clips are installed wrong. Look the picture in the link below. Make sure the bottom clip has the nut fwd and the top clip has the nut toward the rear. Putting the clips on wrong does not allow the wire to press on the middle of the pads and you get significantly less braking power because you are only using the edge of the brake disk if the clips are installed wrong. At least double check this. If you still really need more brake you can move the brake clip to the outer hole which will give the servo more leverage. Make sure your end points are set up right. You should have more then enough brake though. I have my brake set to 50-60% on my radio to calm them down!

http://www.teamlosi.com/RTRNT_pics/Bag%20C09.jpg

[akprice]

thanks dude...i'll check that out tonight when i get home from work. as far as my endpoints go, i've got my brake set at 80% or something. because at 100%, the throttle arm is just bending the servo arm that is on the low needle.

[fezzy]

Hi guys, My Losi didn't some with a A/Filter and obviously I want to get a 1/2 decent unit, I know what I am looking for, dual stage filter.... I bought the AE one but the airflow I found was abit restrictive, How are the Motorsavers filters?? They are abit pricey here in the UK so dunno if they will be worth it. What does everyone here use?.

[pooldoc101]

Does anyone know what changing the servo mount location will do to the handling?

[Got Speed]

fezzy- Call them and tell them it didn't come with one. They should send you out a new one since it is supposed to have one. If they are a bit pricey just get something else. Motor savers arn't what some people make them out to be. If you bought your NT used and it didn't come with a filter then get a different air filter if others are less than the motor saver.

pooldoc101- The forward position gives better front traction and less rear. The rear position gives better rear traction while sacrificing front traction.

[WHITESTER1]

I haven't used a Losi Directional front tire in quite some time. I have forgotten which way the ribs go. LOL

Do the straight ribs go on the outside?

Thanks.

[maxman142001]

Hey everyone should check out rc trix website. They have come out with a bunch of hopups for the xxx-nt. MIP has also come out with a special flywheel for it too.www.rctrix.com (http://www.rctrix.com) :)

[pooldoc101]

yeah i put that flywheel on my truck, didnt notice much difference!

[winning edge designs]

akprice, just to add to caspers as usual excellent answer....You aren't testing the brakes out on asphalt, are you? If so you will eventually melt the trans case where the screws thread into it. Since it's designed for dirt use and they didn't compensate for the heat generated with on-road style traction....On dirt my brakes are only at about 70%(low end point).

fezzy, i'm a little leary of the motorsavers. They are great units, if maintained correctly and frequently. If not dust and small particles get in between the two seperate filter pieces....I prefer the stock O.S. or similar style filters. The on-road foam stack type work excellent as well.

pooldoc, in my experience the servo won't make a "big" difference, but moving it back will take away a little on-power steering. Similar to what gotspeed posted, but my slightly an@l rentive version, heh.

whitester1, the striaght ribs go on the inside, the angled edge goes on the outsides....usually, eithers works, but will give a different feel. The opposite way is more "grabby", imo.

dgrobe, you still using that robinson diff gear?.....I thought we got the diff and slipper settings all straightened out, heh heh........ttyl guys, Jim

[cave]

Got Speed
I got a wedding to go to on Saturday. it will go into the late evening. Man I am jonessen for some Saturday nite action. My moms in the Hospital so Im kinda tied up there. You only get 1 real mom. As soon as she gets well I'll be out there again. I may be out Sunday. I miss running on that track.
Oh yea I noticed that nice cultured track for those heavies! Thats one nice blue groove huh. I'll be out soon
cave

[Got Speed]

Oh ok, hope she gets well soon. :) Yea that is one nice blue groove. I can't wait to run on it. Ive never run on a blue groove before, only seen them. Time to whip out the holeshots. :D The straightaway is pretty rough at the last half. It makes for lots of wheelies even with a fairly soft suspension. Im going to get out there early and find a good setup. Lots of ruts and big jumps makes for compromise. lol Maybe I will see you out there the following saturday or the one after that. Hopefully Ill have my
T-Maxx by then so I can race it too.

[Casper]

The motor saver one works well and stays on very well and the losi ones works just as good. To me an air filter is an air filter as long as it has an oiled foam element and a corse filter it will get the job done.

[fezzy]

Thanks guys, My Losi is 2nd hand, Although it looks like new now!. I didn't get a A/Filter though, My LHS where it came from said that they would give me one but its only a single stage foam element filter, I'd like to get something with abit better filtration as in my experience single foams get dirty very quickly and start to make its way further and further into the foam, And its SUCH a nightmare cleaning them.

[Dave Perek]

How do you guys have your trinity xxx-nt battery hump set up in your xxx-nt? Where can i buy a switch for it? Also.... Do i need to insert some foam to seat it better?

[akprice]

dave - mine fits in pretty snug. it doesn't fit in there straight though. it kind of goes in at an angle. you just have to screw with it a little bit to get it right.

as far as the switch...are you talking about the switch that turns on the transmitter on the truck? did yours not come with one?

[Casper]

My hump pack fits in great. I cut the foam block in half and put a little on each side and screwed the top down and everything is in there nice and tight. I do not run the trinity pack though. I run a the Elite hump pack from Ultimate hobbies but it is the same as the Orion hump pack and I do not belive it is much if any different then the trinity. As for a switch you need to buy one. Your LHS will have servo switches that will bolt into the mount on the throttle servo.

[Got Speed]

Dave Perek- I have the orion pack(same thing). It fits it pretty snug but I have to lay it on its side(with the top two cells facing the rear of the truck). A little foam fits on each side. And a real thin peice the top of bottom will fit. Any more than a little puts to much stress on the batt box lid and it will crack.

[cave]

Dave Perek
My orion fits fine too I have some leftover foam tire inserts and cut that to get a snug fit

[Dave Perek]

Thank you so much people... You guys are awesome. I'm just getting into racing, and people like you help me so much....~!:D Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

Dave.. welcome.. You came to the right place.. This site has all the answers.. you can take your time and search for the answer to some questions on y our own.. or just come here and there will be an answer faster than you could call you LHS for the answer..

Guys like Cave, Casper, Akprice, Got Speed, WED, pooldoc they have the answers very quickly.. mainly cuz they have done it for a while.. and have allready ran into the problems that you and i and other new guys have. This is the place for all your helpful RC needs.. sounds kinda like a comercial dont it..

[cave]

thanks but You forgot W.E.D.. He and Got speed and many others here too. This is what Its all about bro. Friends helping friends.

[Casper]

Cave he got all of them. There are many others around that help out. This is a hobby and sharing info to help others out is part of what makes this fun. I work part time at my LHS to help others out. I do not need the money but I enjoying helping others get into the hobby and helping them with there problems. Other then racing this is one of the best parts of the hobby to me.

[dgrobe2112]

I got those guys.. and there are many more.. i have some insite on different things now that i have drove, and broke, and drove and well you get the idea.. Im sure everyone has there little ideas that help out everyone else..

But i did give props to all those guy you listed.. cuz they are the one with the answers 90% of the time..

And friends.. i think all you guys are great.. too bad i will prolly never get to meet most of you.. but who knows.. maybe one day..

[Dave Perek]

Well now that you guys know me i'll tell you a little info. about me. I'm 15 and I am a fulltime motocross racer. I'm second in the state of ohio. I got into R/c less then a year ago. My garage burned down along with some of my r/c stuff. I am just getting back into the sport now. I purchased a adam drake ed. xxx-nt a few weeks ago. I'm all the way to the engine assembly stage and am waiting on a rear exhaust header for my MT-12 so i can finish this car up and get it out in the dirt. (which i can't wait for!!!).. I purchased the a.d because I want to learn all about the parts by building the kit. I've had my troubles along the way but ALL OF THEM WERE SOLVED BECAUSE OF THIS BOARD!:p ... Do you guys have any tips on what to do with my car? Like any after market parts?

[speedydave]

Alright, after reading that, would you guys recommend the Trinity/Peak/Orion XXX-NT specific packs, or just a standard 3x2 hump pack for the XXX-NT? Also, could you guys possibly post some pics of how you route your wires and everything(mainly for the rx pack), or just say it(but pics are so much cooler ;) ). Also, Tower's backordered on the Trinity rear pivot block, so do you guys think it's really a necessity? How easily does the graphite block actually break? Thanks!

[banditwing]

What I do, is route the batt wire from the box (out the side, where it is supposed to go (in the manual) then back throught to the right of the x on the bottom of the shock tower (looking from the rear) then down, ziptied along the tranny brace, then down from there and into the radio cover and into the reciver.

-I'll try to get pics later
-Banditwing

[pooldoc101]

Hey man, all those packs work fine, get the best deal.My wires are all tucked in the receiver cover, might not be the best way but it works for me! I would wait til you break a rear pivot block, then put in the aluminum one, not much choice if there back ordered! Also consider getting one at the lhs, it is good to support them, it might cost a little more , but u get it right away, and keep the graphite one , just in case.

[winning edge designs]

Dave and others, I have to agree with Casper, we've been thru it all in this sport. And seeing someone new struggle and maybe stop racing is bad! If any of us can help someone get on thier way easier, especially when it's only a few minutes typing an answer to a problem, we'll do it.....Not for money, ego, or any of that. But just because we know how it felt a few years ago when not many would help because they felt they may get beat on the track!...The more happy racers there are with good running equipment, the more fun we have racing!...after all, when one or two guys show up for a class, it's no fun to win! (well not as much, LOL).

Speedydave, I've run the trinity block and the graphite pivot block. I've never broken a graphite pivot block, but i've broken arms running the trinity block!...Wierd, maybe, but maybe i'm driving harder with that aluminum chunk on the back, haha......I had to sharpie over all that cheap blue anodizing as well!....The graphite will ony break in a very bad wreck, like clipping a corner pipe at speed on the straight, they aren't frail like it may seem from some posts..........Jim

[winning edge designs]

Opps, forgot, i've seen some posts about how changing arms is easier and that's true. But in reality, if anything breaks you're race is likely over, so wether it's 5 minutes or 15 won't matter.....but arms are $14, the graphite pivot block is $6.00!!!......The aluminum block is $30-35!!!...........If you crash hard enough 5 times a season to break a right rear arm in back and run the trinity aluminum block it's a cost of $100(block and 5 pairs of arms)...if you run the graphite block and break it 5 times it costs $30 and a total of 30 extra minutes to repair.....Now, how much do you make an hour at work?.......heh, Jim

[speedydave]

Cool, thanks. This will be my first *current* Losi(I got a used JRXT 5 1/2 years ago as my first car...sold it a while ago though). I heard about a mod you can do with the XXX(and XXXT? I'm not sure) with the rear pivot block to use longer screws and use locknuts on top of the block. The Drake does this stock, right? Also WED, what about your battery wire routing? ;) Thanks!

[OutKast]

What are the stock needle settings on the mach.15? thanks

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

LSN-4 turns open from GENTLY closed.
HSN-2 1/2 turns open from closed.

[cave]

W.E.D. Your right on the numbers. I never thought like that. I can change the A arms in the rear out in 5 minutes with my drill used as a fastener. But your right At 7 to 8 bucks per pair It could cost you big in the long run. Now that I'm driving better. Thanks to a better servo. I could of got away with the graphite one Losi sent me for free. But I still like the look of the Trinity Blue:D

Some of the fastest guys out at SRS help me out too they say the same thing as you. Its no fun when your first out of 2 racers. Its alot more fun getting around me thru traffic.LOL One guy named Mike has helped me on set up and tires and foam selection for my tires. There are only a few guys out here that take this so seriously that they forgot that they got into this for fun. I already told my nephew "if you see me get that way give me a smack down".
Dave P I raced desert out here in AZ back in the day. I still ride a couple of Banshees. One is semi stock the other is a full bloan Alky Banshee for sand draggin.
This board is one of the most helpful things to this Lifestyle and a heck of alot of fun to. Welcome to this side of Nitro. The XXX-NT side

cave

[cave]

Outkast

LSN-4 turns open from GENTLY closed.. Hyspeed out from closed 2.5 turns open

I had a problem when I first got my XXX-NT. I had turned the fast idel out way too much for a rich breakin. I lost my book and had a hell of time getting it started. These guys here helpped me out.
Losifreak gave me the same info. Dang thing started right up.:)
good luck

[gcoolt]

Hey guys i was breaking in my orion wasp yesterday it was about 60 degrees outside in Wichita/Ks. I had my HSN 4 1/2 and my LSN 2 1/2 out, and the idle 2mm open. The temp of the engine was between 190-205 degrees. The problem is that I wasn't really seeing any blue exhaust coming out.
:confused:
I don't think the engine was over heating because of the temp of the engine. Do the orion just don't put out that much exhaust? Please help:confused:

[Casper]

I am definately not an engine tuner but with the two wasps I have seen break in, one broke in around 200 at idle for 3 tanks and the other broke in at 130-140 at idle (done at night). Both engines have been running really strong. At idle I would not expect a lot of smoke but you should be creating a wet spot or even a puddle out your stinger. I idled the first 3 tanks on my starter box and there is still a spot on my driveway and I did it 2 months ago. As long as oil/fuel is coming out the exhaust you are getting the lubrication you need. Once you lean it out the oil fuel out the stinger should start to turn to smoke under acceleration.

[dgrobe2112]

Dont take my word on this.. but.. i think that if you run your truck at idle speed.. and you are getting a puddle, or getting oil out the exhaust.. you are lubricating good.. now.. if you take your truck from idle, give it throttle.. and take off.. you should have blue smoke out the exhaust.. if your running, and you have blue smoke at first.. then none.. you may be too lean.. cuz at high revs.. the motor is using all of it.. this will come into efect if you are running oval.. where you do get your motor up to top speeds quite a bit.. you will want to rich it a little.. but if you run offroad.. this may be an ok setting.. if your not at top speed for very long.. but if you are using top speed, or top RPM's.. then you will want to run a little richer..

just my .02 cents.. and i am sure its not all exactly right.. cuz i am learning this motor tuning as well..

[tallcracker]

the temp of the engine is effected by many things. i can put a large cooling head on my engine and run it at 200 F but that doesnt mean it is getting good lubrication. humidity, plug type and outside temperature all change the head temp as well. as others have stated check for blue smoke. the blue smoke should be very noticeable at idle all the way through the high end. on my nt with a NR engine i can see a steady stream of thick blue smoke throughout the entire RPM range and especially when i blip the throttle coming off a corner of jump.

[MikeWz]

Go by the blue smoke but also by the sound. When the engine makes a higher pitch whine, and almost sounds like it's straining, that's when you need to go about an hour increment richer.

[cave]

gcoolt

W.E.D. or Casper or pooldoc101 would probley be the persons to answer this one. They all run Orion wasps

opps didnt see Caspers responce.

I did that temp type tunin and found out that by changing my glow plug thros the readings off. It got hotter. Is your filter clogged? How about your air filter is it clean? this would affect alot of things

I may get an Orion Wasp for my new Drake I just got

I still love my Mugen MT :D

cave

[MikeWz]

That MT hauls. It has ENDLESS bottom end. It's rediculous, on some tracks I even have to put in a small carb restrictor because those tires will just keep throwing dirt. I love it :D

[pooldoc101]

I have a theory about smoke, I read somewhere here that you shouldn't tune your motor by the amount of smoke coming out. Well heres my theory: I agree that smoke in your exhaust shows the presence of oil, but just think of what is happening to the oil to make smoke, well its burning and I don't think burnt oil lubes very well, I prefer to tune my motor by temp and sound, but most importantly, performance! I like to have crisp throttle response, and be able to get it revved up to full song. I don't get this when my motor is rich. I like to lean it for performance, watching the temp to make sure I'm not going too lean, and then listening to the motor during the race, you can definately hear if it gets too lean! But if you adjusted it by the temp gun, leaving a little leeway, I've never had a problem with my motor leaning out during a race. So to sum it all up. I tune my motor to perform, keep an eye on the temp, I could care less if it smokes or not, if your temp is ok, so is the motor. But that is just my humble opinion, and you know what opinions are like, everybody has one! Pooldoc

[BlueBlaster01]

Originally posted by cave
I still ride a couple of Banshees. One is semi stock the other is a full bloan Alky Banshee for sand draggin.
cave

Ahh, another rider. :p I run a Mx/XC modded Banshee. :p Ever been to BansheeHq.com? ;)

Thanks WED, the Losi acts much better now with your shock set up. YESSSS!!!!!

[pooldoc101]

MikeWz- I agee, those MT's haul. I used to get pulled by them on a regular basis, down the straight, until I got my Wasp, now....well lets just say they don't motor by me any more. Has anyone seen or run the Mugen MR? They say the stroke is shorter, giving it even more power!PS: I'm looking for a slide carb, like a mugen or RB or NovaRossi, if anyone has one plz let me know.Pooldoc

[gcoolt]

Thanks for the help guys! :)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
gcoolt

W.E.D. or Casper or pooldoc101 would probley be the persons to answer this one. They all run Orion wasps

opps didnt see Caspers responce.

I did that temp type tunin and found out that by changing my glow plug thros the readings off. It got hotter. Is your filter clogged? How about your air filter is it clean? this would affect alot of things

I may get an Orion Wasp for my new Drake I just got

I still love my Mugen MT :D

cave

You got a drake now too. cool. This summer when I get a job Im going to try the Offroad Wasp or possibly the Sirio.

Does anyone have any comments on the sirio?

[winning edge designs]

Man this thread gets major hits every day, the XXX-NT has a big following!!!

As casper and pooldoc posted, i'll agree. My engine shows a little oil from the stinger at idle, the longer it idles, the more oil I notice from the stinger. Once I accelerate off idle, it shows some smoke, which clears as it revs, but not completely.
Any engine tuner should never put all thier eggs in one basket. Use temp, sound, oil traces, etc all to tune an engine. A correctly set bottom end is best checked by watching temps. After reaching full temp(190-240 fro most racers), allow the engine to idle and contiue checking temp every two seconds or so. As the engine idles it should cool, for example: An engine at 225 coming in for a low speed check should drop to 223 after a couple seconds, 221,then 219, then 217, etc. The longer it idles, the lower it should get until stalling if you let it....If it drops too fast, lean it out and retest. It should drop slow and consistently...Alot of racers don't realize both needles effect temps, most are too rich on bottom and too lean on top, or the other way around.
Sound also tells alot, the engine shouldn't sound like it might explode on long straights, if it does, you're too lean on top and likely too rich on bottom to keep temps under 240 or so?.....................Hope this helps, Jim

[cave]

.Ahh, another rider. I run a Mx/XC modded Banshee. Ever been to BansheeHq.com?

Blueblaster 01
I've seen your screen name on a quad board some where. Maybe Atv action or some thing like that. I still ride. The alky is scarry. I love Glamis. It has too many rules now. If you cant ride free. Well you know.

No I havnt been there yet.

Got Speed. Yea I got one. Too see me you wouldnt think I have a real job. Long Hair and all. I have been fortunate. Some times I go into a new hobby shop and the counter guys brush me off. Till I start spending. Kinda sucks about that but I get over things real quick... I get that alot at SRS from the one guy behind the counter. But he does take my money with a smile:D
Hope to see you out there in a couple weeks.

[turbochrgdRICE]

Hey guys. I might be getting an XXXNT Drake and I was wondering what the most powerful engine (.12 preferred) that i can put into the stadium truck. And then what's the best race (low/high end) engien to get for it?

thnx all

[Astrolite]

Hey guys, is there a way to search this thread or do I have to read through all 200 + pages?

I'm trying to find info about rebuilding the NT diff. I thought I had read something about that on this forum before but don't know where to find it.

Thanks,
Astrolite

[cave]

Astrolite
Look back around ten pages. I started on this board around 200 something. I've seen that topic come up many many times since then.
If its not clear on those 10 go back from 200 and work your way up. I'm sure someone will post and help you out here. Got Speed? Do you got those instructions handy?

cave

[dgrobe2112]

Well, as far as engine goes.. it really depends on what your gonna run.. ir your running offroad.. you can have all the power you want.. but if you cant put it to the dirt.. my little os12 CV-x will run right past you.... As far as power goes.. I heard that motor that comes in the Mugen MT12.. is crazy fast.. the OS12 CV-r is good..

The orion Wasp .12 is fast.. you can get preyy much any motor with a rear exhaust.. and fly..

A sirio .12

[PJCruz]

Well, here's my take on the engine thread....

OS: You really can NOT go wrong with an OS. The old standby OS CV are really all you need for most off-road tracks. The more powerful CVR and TR OS's are more powerful.. more torquey.. and still pretty easy to tune. The TR/CVR are great for that long straightaway.. and to help you over those triples (if you can handle the air). Part support: ALmost EVERYONE carried OS and chances are when you need a rebuild.. your LHS has the piston/sleeve or conrod on their wall.

Picco: I have one of these... a hair tougher to tune. Have incredible high end (good for the straights), and pretty good low end. So far, I have NOT had ANY trouble with my picco tuning wise at the race track.. She runs about mid 200's and runs strong all day long (no flame outs). Picco is a bit more sensitive to tune (just take a little extra time) than an OS, but the high end is really there for those big tracks (noone and I mean NOONE was pulling me on the straights the last race.. I pulled in Novarossi's and OS TR's). Part support: Pretty poor... if you need a rebuild.. it may be weeks/months before you get your parts if the LHS doesn't have the parts ( and they probably dont).

Novarossi: Insane.. top to bottom. Very fast. Lots o' torque. Too much maybe for offroad. If it's high bite, and with a long straight... enjoy! Loosen the slipper a tiny bit or you'll be pulling wheelies all day long. Harder to tune than the others.. even "tempermental" sometimes and more likely to flame out (unless you are a master tuner). Run it rich and you should be ok.. but you won't be smokin past everyone if you do. Part support: See Picco.

Anyways, I have all three engines.. so I know. If you are new to nitro offroad.. it may be best to get a OS CV or a CVR at the most. Tuning/break in is pretty easy.. and the parts are there when you need it. If you have run onroad nitro before.. and know what you are doing.. go with an Italian special (Picco, Novarossi).

Hope this helps.
Pete

[PJCruz]

I just picked up a tranny set and a new diff set from a friend (he sells nt stuff on ebay). I'll have a spare complete tranny built ready to rock in my pitbox should I blow my diff out during a race... nice insurance. (Got it for like $50)

Anyways, on my "old" tranny.. I rebuilt the diff, and putting it back together I noticed the bearing are "gritty" sounding. How do I clean these out guys... Any suggestions? I like to have them smooth and quite again.

Thanks
Pete

[dgrobe2112]

Cruz.. to rebuild your bearings if they are stock there should be a black cover on one side.. you can use a small flat head screwdriver.. pull the cover off.. and use some electric motor spray to clean it out.. then of course relube them.. i use trinity bearing oil.. put some in there.. not too much.. recover the bearing.. and spin it a few times.. it will feel restrictive at first.. but after you run the oil around the bearing evenly.. it will speed back up..

[MikeWz]

Pooldoc-My track doesn't have too much straight, so I'm not too worried about top-end. My MT hauls both high and low. It's pretty much perfectly dialed in-because it's my second one I know how to tune em pretty good.

Turbochargd-To race your NT definatly go with Mugen's MT-12 engine. It's amazing! Some people here like the WASP too. Two great engines!

[PJCruz]

dgrobe. thanks. The bearings actually have a blue seal on one side I think... I'll yank that circlip off.. and then remove the seal.. blast it.. relube (I have Royal Oil by Trinity).. and re-assemble?

I'll give that ashot.

Thanks
Pete

[dgrobe2112]

Thats it.. now you must be careful when pulling the seal off.. so you dont break it.. and also.. when you put it back on there.. be sure that it goes back on correctly.. and also make sure you dont put a whole lot of oil on there.. cuz it will cause friction.. and that defeats the purpose.. just put enough on there alow lubing o f the balls inside the bearing.. when you do the big bearings.. you should be able to put them on your pinky finger.. and spin them.. and you will see if you got too much lube..

[fezzy]

Hi folkes, Does anyone know what plug to run in a Mach15? Long or Short?

[wjj]

I have a rbx12 and I was wondering if any one know what the factory settings for the carb is?

[jdm3849]

Hello, Fezzy.
In my Mach I run OS A3 plugs, most people I know do.


If I were to buy an OS CVRX .12 would I notice a big power increase over my Mach .15? On the average how many gallons would you say the CVRX lasts through? Will I be pulling wheelies if traction is good? If I were to get a reciever pack how would I charge it on my DTX intellipeak mini pulse?

Got Speed, you know when I asked if the mashers would allow me to bottom out? I meant would they allow my chassis to bottom out, because on a T3 I saw, the shocks bottomed out before the chassis itself did which cause breakage of suspension parts.

I have a Hitec 645MG servo, but it is not completely centering, it makes a buzzing noise after I let the steering wheel on my radio back to neutral, it usually points a little over to the side I had last turned.


Well Igot a new clutch, disk brake, and motor mounts (no one sold the bolts) also a 5/64 dynamite tool so I dont strip the motor mount screws again, what size are the allen screws all over the underside of the chassis? And the large allen screws that are on the suspension/upper deck piece?

When i got the clutch (it is white, not black as before) all I did was put it together , swipe it with some sandpaper, (and the bell) and put it back together. Will it work or is there something extra that I need to do? I did'nt put my new disk brake on because it looks like it has some life in it, but it slows down slowly and too softly for me,is there and way to dial in more brake w/o using my radio settings?


Last night I took off all the black on my exhaust (shiny silver now) with steel wool, shined it up. I also took the paint (anodizing?) off the the top of the head on the mach and the ends of all the heat sink fins, actually looks hardcore and reminds me of some thunder tiger engines i have seen , kinda looks like the chrome fades into blue if you look at it from an upward angle. Needed something new, the pull start handle had taken away some paint anyways.


Keep thrashin'

MiKe

[Casper]

I will answer part of this for you. The allen screws on the bottom of the chassis use a 1/16th allen wrench. The top cap screws use a 3/32. It is a good idea to get a good one of each of these also. The white clutch is standard for the kits while the RTR has a few parts that are unique to the RTR but equivalent to the stock parts. For extra brake without adjusting the radio you can move the link to the outer hole on the servo arm instead of the middle hole. The longer arm will give you more leaverage. As for the motor questions I will leave that up to someone who knows more about OS engines. The bottoming out thing I do not think will be an issue with the masher tires. You should be ok with them. I do not think it will put undue stress on your suspension parts due to the sightly taller tires.

[dgrobe2112]

'deep breath'

here we go.. from your stock mach 15, if you put a .12 CV-r on there.. you will see a big in crease.. as far as wheelies go.. I doubt you will pull one from a stand.. i havent seen it done.. but if you bounce the front of the truck on a rock.. or landing.. and get on the throttle it will..i have seen some modified motors pull wheelies from a stand still..

to charge your receiver pack on your intellipeak.. you can get the plug that is opposite your receiver plug.. under stand.. if your receiver is male, get the female side.. strip the ends.. and use aligator clips to clip to the ends.. charge at .5 or 1 amp.. make sure you watch the pack.. and feel for temp.. so it dont overheat..

Your 645mg servo.. i had the same problem.. what i did was take it apart.. clean all the gears.. and relube them.. and put it back together the way it came apart.. also.. you may check your receiver batteries are fully charged.. low batteries will cause the servos to not work correctly.. and the sound is because the electronics in the servo, know the servo is not centered and are constantly trying to center the servo.. cuz your radio has the steering in center position..

Dont know anything about the clutch..

the fin idea.. sounds cool.. i might try it..

[jdm3849]

Thanks for the quick reply, there are only two holes on my throttle linkage arm, and the linkage is in the outer one. (closest to the rounded edge)



Edit: You guys are quick!!! As for the servo, I was using it in my FTT3. After you took it apart and such it worked? What did you use to relube it?

[akprice]

jdm - i was also trying to get more braking out of my xnt. did you try adjusting the back collar on the brake linkage? if you move that towards the engine it will give you more braking. just make sure you are not trying to get more braking for on road (which i was doing and w.e.d. made a good point to me about that). i'll just have to wait and see how it handles once i get on the track.

w.e.d - what happened to your jconcepts website? did you close it down. i tried going to it the last couple of days and it says the page doesn't exist. everything alright over there?

[tallcracker]

hey guys
i am looking for a reliable, decent performing engine for ny NT. i dont need the fastest engine out there as this motor will only be a backup, but it does need to be able to hang if it gets called into action. reliability and ease of tuning is a definate factor so i know O.S. engines will probably be mentioned. i really do not want to go much higher then about 100 on the price, but i am new to .12 engines and i am not sure what the best "bang for the buck" deal is out there. even if any1 has a good used engine that they would sell at a good price i would be very intrested. i will be purchasing probably monday, so let me know if you happen to know of any good sales.
thanks guys

[Got Speed]

Astrolite- It is pretty easy if you can follow the instructions and always check to make sure that your slipper will slip before your differential. The things that you should buy are: diff gear $3, diff balls $10, diff rings $2.50, thrust assembly $5, and diff hardware set $5. With all these things you will have a completly new diff other than the outdrives(which don't need replaced unless they are notched). Once you have the diff out of the truck unscrew the diff screw and take the two halves apart(hold it over something that will catch parts incase some of the diff balls or something falls out). Now take the rings off the outdrives and take the screw, thrust(be careful it will fall apart easily, also make sure that you get the bottom washer too because they tend to get stuck in the bottom), diff gear bearings, and nut assembly out of the outdrives. Spray the outdrives and diff gear bearings with motor spray to get all the junk off them and put them on a clean surface where you will work on the new diff. Put the a very small drop of oil on both of the bearings and wipe as much of the excess off as possible. Put a moderate amount of diff grease on the new gear and push the balls(with your finger or something that won't scratch them) into the slots on the gear. Grease the outdrives and the rings moderatly and put the rings on the outdrives. Grease the thrust assembly, and slide it into the bottom of the outdrive. Assemble the nut carrier and slide it (along with the washers or spring) into the other outdrive. Now slide the screw through side with the thrust assembly. Put the diff gear bearings in the diff gear. Put an allen wrench through the outdrive's slot and hold pressure on it while you join the diff gear and two outdrives together. While still holding pressure on the diff nut outdrive put an allen wrench through the other outdrive and make sure it goes through the slot in the screw. Now putting pressure on both allen wrenchs to hole it together turn the thrust assembly outdrive clockwise. When you start to feel it tightening turn it a few more times. Hole the diff gear in one hand and the allen wrenchs in the other. Now try and turn the diff gear. If it turns easily or without much effort tighten the diff a 1/4 turn at a time. When the gear won't turn without a good deal of pressure then it is time to put it in the tranny again. Before you do that though spray the diff bearings(the big ones) with motor spay and a drop or two of WD-40(wiping off the excess). Now put the truck back together and check its tightness by doing this. Hold one wheel with one hand and the spur gear with one of your finger. Now try and turn the other wheel forward with your other hand. If you don't see your slipper plates turning you need to tighten your diff 1/8 turn at a time untill the slipper plates start turning. When the diff dosn't slip and the slipper does then tighten the diff 1/8 of a turn more. If you do all this and check the tightness several times for the next few tanks you should have a new diff that works great and will last you a couple gallons or more.

cave- lol, I know who you are talking about. Somewhat short, unshaven guy? I don't like him at all. hehe He snubs anyone he hasn't seen before, that dosn't like him, or that walks in the door with a car worth less than $1000. LOL I just try and stay away from the guy. Im looking at those orion lap counting systems right now. Id like to get one this summer to help make setup easier and to see how my lap time improve, :p

Someone was talking about pulling the bearing seals off. I think the best way to do it is to use a new exacto knife blade and just barely poke it under the edge of the seal so it sticks up for you to pull it off.

jdm3849- Yes you will notice a big increase in power. They are also very easy to tune and last longer than the Mach .15. Im at about 3 gallons and it has like-new compression still. Still running hard and strong. If you have really good traction and a tight slipper(don't lock it though) you can pull a wheelie. I have several times on the straightaway when I hit the throttle just right and hit a spot where it really hooks up well. Stiffer rear springs help wheelies too but you don't want it when you are racing. Yes the shocks could bottom out first. You could either take the limiters out or get some longer shocks if you wanted. The chassis screws are 1/16th and the cap heads(except one of the screws in the tranny :rolleyes: ) are 3/32s. If the clutch and spring are new and you scuffed the inside of the bell you should be good to go. You can move the collars (on the outside of the long rod) inwards. If you move them in too much you will get drag brake. Move them in as far as they go with the drivetrain still operating smoothly. You can also move the brake linkage farther out on ther servo arm. If it is too much brake dial out the rest on the radio. Glad the polishing/deanodizing worked good for you.

tallcracker- The .12 CV-R is $90 at tower hobbies right now. I don't think you can get a better engine for $90 or less. However you will need a bump starter or starter box. Otherwise I don't know of much in that range. There is the M-16 from megatech for $100(I think) with pull start but Ive heard good and bad reports on it.

Ive heard that you can bake your tires off the wheels. I though it was supposed to be 250 degrees for 10 minutes. Is this correct?

[banditwing]

Hi guys, I am in the market for purchasing a new engine, and I am trying to figure out what to get. This would be my second engine. I am 90% I am going to buy an OS cvr, and I am trying to figure out which type to purchase. There is a rotary short shaft for $90, or a Slide carb standard shaft for $100. I have the linkages to set up both, and from what I hear, I think I would rather go with the slide carb because of the longer shaft and thus more room for the nut to thread. I also like the slide carbs, I hear they give awsome low end power, and my track needs exactly that. The $10 price difference does not bother me tremdously, so basically here are my questions:

1. I know a short shaft will fit in an xnt, but how well will it hold? I am mainly a basher and I would like to have the peace of mind that the nut will not loosen anytime soon?

2. Would the slide carb be right for me? I mean I like the responsive snap at the low end, especially since my track is a short one. (High bite :D).

I am about 90% decided on the slide carb, I just want to get your opinions. :)

-Thanks

[Scrad]

I have a short shaft CV-R that I took off my Ultima. It holds just fine. Just make sure you put some loctite on the shaft. I've never had is loosen up on me, but about halfway through last season my flywheel came loose so I bought a new shaft nut. I think the threads got messed up from taking it on and off a few too many times. If you are going to buy a new motor your better off getting a standard shaft.

[winning edge designs]

akprice, We closed the site for a while until I sort out some things. We spent alot of time and effort advertising for other manufacturers, so we're rethinking that. Plus I'm running an Auto Repair Shop now, called Motorsports Auto Service, so it takes alot of my time. The paint jobs have taken a back seat for a while. I'll still paint, but can't do as much work, so the site wasn't needed for that reason as well...we'll see what we can come up with to incorporate the Auto repair and airbrushing together maybe, :).....ttyl, Jim

[BlueBlaster01]

My Truck
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid57/p72d1231f361ee50cef409ad3cdcd9c72/fc6ae98b.jpg
New Body
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid57/p032124557ded47a0adbfe72759b270f4/fc6ceeba.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid57/p7494bdb5e3bd4810a403114e8efbcb83/fc6ceebf.jpg

:p

[akprice]

sweet looking ride blueblaster. love the flames!!! what's up with the front a-arms? are they aluminum or something or is it just the lighting?

[akprice]

looks like they did some serious housecleaning around here in the last few days.

[pooldoc101]

It looks like they cut out about 200 pages! Well, finally got to race sunday after being rained out for 3 weeks! My Wasp got a good workout finally, and it performed well! I finished 2nd in the a-main, it took a JP Modified to beat me[couldn't run with him on the straights:mad: ] Well that will end up costing me 350. I got some good news as well, I'm leading in points at the track! Now if I can just sneak a JP in the house without the little lady noticing.......

[fezzy]

Glad that the forums are back up, Disappointed about all those pages of info lost :(

Just fine tuning the over all car now to get it the way I want it before I drive it. Anyhow, I have run it a few times for breaking it in and my good friend also purchased a XXX-NT Sport, Both of us have had problems with the fuel tank, I noticed that the pressure nipple has a pick-up to the very bottom of the tank, I can only presume this is to maintain idle during a roll, This has however caused alot of problems with fuel flowing from out of the pressure line, into the pipe and then back out onto my desk where I work, Unfortunately this is also in my bedroom, Its not just a little though... Today I lost 1/4 of a tank just working on the car.

I was just wondering weather there are any solutions or fixes to this or ways to prevent it, For now I have just removed the pressure line, put a screw in the end and drained out my pipe.

Cheers
-Ash

[pooldoc101]

Ash- I put in the new tank to solve the problem. I think if you move the pressure fitting to top of tank[lid] it solves it. And my truck was on its lid sunday and it ran fine!

[fezzy]

Has this new tank been around for a while? or....

Reason I ask is cause I live in the UK and its probably the last place it'll reach.

[pooldoc101]

I don't know, but you can put a fuel nipple in your tank lid and seal up the old hole

[MikeWz]

You can get one off ebay. Just buy the Drake Center brace. It comes with the new fuel tank. It's like $25 and you get a Graphite Center brace and the new fuel tank. It's not so bad.

Man, I've missed this forum. Been so into building my Reflex I've spent so much time in the Trinity forum.

[akprice]

hey mike - yeah, don't forget where your roots are bro! just because you got a nice fancy on road car, doesn't mean you can forget us offroaders.:D

i had no idea how much i love this forum, until it went down for a few days. i felt empty not being able to check it every 15 minutes here at work and see what was going on. i'm glad it's back up and that every one is still kickin!

w.e.d - sounds like you have been a busy man for a while. i think you should definitely try and incorporate your airbrush rc skills with your new auto repair business. the cars are just a little bigger now, ha ha!

[fezzy]

Cheers guys, I'l keep my eyes peeled on ebay for a good deal :cool:

I must admit... It has been abit boring without the forum to keep track with.

[dmann33]

Does anyone know if the McCoy glow plugs packaged in pairs by Dynamite as "power plugs" are any different than the regular McCoy plugs. I have been using the former in my XXX-NT, but noticed the ones individually packaged by McCoy are cheaper.

Thanks!

[akprice]

well guys, i finally got my mip on board temp gauge and tried it out a little bit ago during lunch. my engine was running smoothly at 230. it's nice to finally know what temp my engine has been running at and i was very pleased to see it in the good range. i am hopefully (weather permitting) try and race my xxx-nt for the first time this weekend. i can't wait.

when i was running it at lunch, i noticed that when i release the brake the engine revs up and the truck wants to go. i tried adjusting the idle but that didn't make a difference. does this mean that my low needle is too lean or too rich? i know i have had this problem before and asked this same question, but low-and-behold, all of those pages are gone now. can someone please clarify this for me? thanks.

[BlueBlaster01]

Originally posted by akprice
sweet looking ride blueblaster. love the flames!!! what's up with the front a-arms? are they aluminum or something or is it just the lighting?
They are proto-type aluminum CNC machined a-arms.

:cool:

[dmann33]

akprice - sounds like your needle settings are fine. I think it is your throttle linkage and adjustments. The idle is only a screw that prevents the carb from closing past a minimum amount (usually 1-2mm opening). It does nothing to prevent it from opening more (obvioulsy). So, I think your opening is increasing when you let off the brake (your throttle servo is opening the carb a bit more when you relase the break and return to the neutral position thereby causing an increase in RPM.)

When this happens again, try using your radio trim to turn down the throttle until it goes back to its normal idle. Then apply the brake and release. It should not do it any more.

If this worked, You may want to take off the air filter (with the engine not running) and watch the carb opening as you apply the brake and accelerator. At the idle position, the carb opening should be just 1-2mm. You should not see the opening decrease when you apply the brake from idle. Also, be sure the opening still is fully open when full throttle is applied (WOT).

[akprice]

thanks dmann! i'll try that. by adjusting the throttle trim i won't be losing any top end speed though will i?

[akprice]

i am just full of questions today. i have the jr xr2 radio with z270 servos. i have been reading about servos with better torque. one review i read said that the radio is very good, but to replace the steering servo with something better like the hitec 605BB servo. is this a must to replace the steering servo? will it just eventually break on me? and what about the jr z270 throttle servo? should i replace that also? just wondering what everyone else has done with theirs if they bought the rtr version.

[dgrobe2112]

AK.. first off.. good luck with your offraod racing.. Now.. for sure you will want to replace the standard steering servo with a metal gear servo.. i use a hitec 925mg it has a .08 speed.. and plenty of torque for the truck.. there is also a cheaper 625mg that is about 45-55 bux depending on your shop, you can get it on www.servocity.com they are great and customer service is awsome..

The standard servo will work fine for your throttle servo.. you can upgrade. but if you do.. you will want to get a higher speed one.. for quicker throttle response.. but its not neccessary

[dgrobe2112]

Also.. with your throttle settings.. what you will want to do is.. with your car off, not started.. turn on your radio, and the servos in the truck.. just dont start the engine.. now you should be able to remove your air filter put full brake on.. notice the opening in the carb.. remember that size of opening.. should be 1mm now when you let off brake to the idle position.. the carb should not move.. if it does.. you will want to adjust you servo linkage.. by loosening the set screws.. and letting you servo center.. and push the linkage so that opening is the same as at full brake.. then tighten your linkage there..

[akprice]

thanks dgrobe! i will do that tonight when i get home. i forgot that it could be the carb opening. i am also going to look into getting one of the hitec steering servos. thanks for the advice dude!

[dgrobe2112]

No prob.. any time..

[gcoolt]

Hey pooldoc101 does your wasp carb maintains its LSN settings from day to day.

[pooldoc101]

Gcoolt- yes it does, the only thing i've noticed is that it is sensitive to lean conditions, where my rb isn't