Team Losi XXXNT forum v5.0

[dgrobe2112]

Akprice.. what steering servo are you using in your truck.. you may want to get a high speed metal gear servo.. i use a hitec 925mg and i can get that thing to turn on a dime.. also.. check your batteries in your truck.. if they are low or not charged.. they will make your servos run slower.. and of course slower response..

Your if you are running the stock plastic arms that come on the RTR kits.. then the graphite will be stronger.. and also be more stiff.. if you race in winter time.. the graphite can be brittle in the cold weather..

Random guy.. i know the RPM arms are made of nylon.. they are stronger.. and i have seen them at the track.. none broke.. They are prolly more durable than the stockers.. but they will also be a little more heavy than stock as well..

[akprice]

yeah i have just the stock jr z270's in there. so a higher torque steering servo would definitely do the trick huh? i'll have to invest in a new hitec servo then and the graphite a-arms. i'm tired of busting those. thanks dgrobe!

hey, do i need a high torque servo or high speed servo? also, will a hitec work with the jr racing xr2 controller?

[dgrobe2112]

For a XXXNT truck, i would get a high speed servo.. you dont really need the torque.. like a Tmaxx.. you would need a high torque servo.. to turn and hold those big tires.. i reccommend you get a high speed servo.. i use a 925mg and it has a .08 speed.. your standard servos have around .18-.22 speed.. so you will be cutting your response time in half..

Go to www.servocity.com they got servos there.. and they have great customer service..

A friend of mine had a hitec servo sent in for service... and they were gonna replace it.. he sent in a 625mg and cuz they didnt have any in stock.. they replaced it with a 5625 digital version at no charge..

925mg .08 speed 70 bux
625mg .15 speed 49 bux

and of course there are other brands..

And a hitec servo will work with your JR receiver..

[akprice]

thanks dude! i appreciate your help. i will look into getting one of those then.

[gcoolt]

Hey guys I had my first race this weekend also. I broke the graphite rear shock tower in practice so I put the plastic one back on. I finished 1st in both the novice quals and 4th in the A-main. When I got home I noticed that I had broken the plastic shock tower also. I need to slow down on the triples the cart wheels were killing me. But I'm getting better at jumping so maybe I won't break anything next time.
:D

[dgrobe2112]

Gcool..

You will be suprised at how slowing down and taking a clean racing line will make your lap times increase.. and lap counts increase.. if you slow down and run clean laps.. you dont get picked up by the Marshals as often.. there is adding time.. you dont have to wait for the marshals to pick you up.. more time.. and you will get faster and faster.. more time.. So its good to wanna be fast and make the triple.. but then agian.. its better to no break.. save some money, run a cleaner line and get better

Congrats on your wins..

[fezzy]

I have a HS625MG in my Losi for steering, My mate has a HS645MG, My steering is noticeably quicker and has plenty of torque for the Losi.

I was driving my truck round at the local track again on Saturday, Had a blast with my mate racing him, One the first race we had and was winning the 2nd when I started to lose drive and also there was a nasty grinding noise coming on hard acceleration, Later inspection revealed the idler compound gear had stripped on the smaller gear, For now I just ordered a replacement but are there any other options that are more durable??. I also broke a replacement shock tower and so ordered another one, They always break in the same place!, After looking at the shock tower I took off I think the material is very very stiff so on this new shock tower I am going to try boiling it to soften it up, I shall let you know how this works out as I've tryed it a few times on various trucks I've had, and its worked well.

Final question.... These RPM arms everyone is talking about, Do they fit a Losi XXX-NT because it says they are for the XX.

Cheers.
Ash

[Got Speed]

LOL two pages ago my internet was working. hehe.

Cave- I guess you could see I wasn't there lol. I will be there this saturday. Are you going to be there? Nice body, did you paint it yourself? I am running red directionals in the front. They are very similar feeling to the M3 edges. Those are used alot there too. They edges just feel a little more aggressive than the directionals. Where did you place in the main last saturday?

[dgrobe2112]

Fezzy.. you running plastic towers?? You may want to give the Graphite a try.. Also, on Ebay.. they have some Carbon Fiber shock towers for the XXXNT.. Now as far as the boiling goes.. hmm.. dont know.. that would give alot softer part.. kinda like rubber.. may not break.. but could bend.. and may cause handling problems..

Dont know about the xx arms.. if they did fit.. then it would say xx and XXX on it..

[fezzy]

I am going to boil my broken tower, They only go as soft as the length of time you boil them for. Worth a shot though :D

I was going to get the graphite tower but when my idler went I couldn't afford it aswell as one, I've also got a new Motorsavers I need to pay for.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

I don't know if this has been posted here before, but I was looking through an RCCA and saw this site that sold hopups for our Losi's. Its www.rctrix.com :)

[pooldoc101]

I didnt see a idler gear on thar rctrix website, someone needs to come up with one. A buddy of mine just sold his drake and got a rc10 team truck and was saying how much more durable their tranny's are, he put 7 tanks thru it and fried his diff!:D Guess that will teach him to brag.

[winning edge designs]

Fezzy, Boiling won't work. The parts on race vehicles, like the XXX-NT are made from "composites", not pure plastic, or nylon. Boiling works on Nylon wheels and older or toy R/C cars only. Even stock plastic parts have fibers molded into the material(Making them "composites"), graphite uses graphite fibers for lighter weigth and increased rigidity in the same parts.

The XX arms are completely different, they won't even fit a XXcr, or a XXX buggy either I believe.

While i'm here I figure i'd chime in on the slide vs barrel carb theory again....I run a barrel carb and still need to have my exponential in the -30 to -70 area for most tracks, clearing jumps has never been a problem, unless nobody is making them...Traction limits my trucks forward accel far more then carb type so far.....Are you guys running on Blue Groove high bite tracks? I've run on some high bite tracks and have even had enough traction to yank nasty wheelies even. But I still have yet to want for more bottom end then my barrel carb wasp provides at -30 expo.......Thinking back my O.S. CV-R even used some negative to aid traction on a few tracks?. Just Florida tracks maybe?.....Jim

[turbochrgdRICE]

So are you guys running slide carb or rotary carb on your XXXNTs? I've heard that rotary is better but I'm not exactly sure why. What do you guys recommend. The engine will be a MT12 by the way.

[WheelNut]

I've finally taken some pictures of my XXX-NT!

I running;
OS .12 CV-R w/slide carb
Hitec 5625 steering servo
Standard throttle servo
MX-3 radio
600mah Rx pack
And its all stock on the rest of the parts

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Apr/2003476009733554080376.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Apr/2003478084565257931926.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Apr/2003475314475635562579.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Apr/2003472660257340799855.jpg

And I cracked my battery box already! I haven't even jumped it yet!
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Apr/2003472561239938781885.jpg

I"ve got to say this truck handles awsome! Tons of steering and a real ground hugging feel. I've yet to jump it but I'm going to do some soon. The brakes feel good, smooth, which is good. It handles noticably better with the body on, which kind fo surprised me because my Dads GT and my T3 aren't affected by the body much.

I hope I'll be able to come in here more often and get some tips!

And hopefully those pictures will work, if not make sure and tell me!

[Philly's Finest]

Has anyone bought any of the rctrix products yet? I was wondering if the aluim shock towers would be more durable than the graphite ones. I think their prices are a little high but I guess they can get away with it since nobody else makes shinny hopups for the xnt.

I was looking at the 2.5 traxxas engine. Could a cut the shaft to fit in the truck? If not I'll probably be getting a new fantom.

[tjraceing]

cave thats a pretty cool paint job on that brand new drake now you gotta go out and get that bad boy dirty:(

[Twist 2 Go]

I just bought one of the new JR Racing XS3 radios. If anyone else has one of these radios w/ adjustable freq's, do you have to unbolt the radio cover lid to access it which is time-consuming or did you modify the lid for access? Thanks, Rick

[Juice]

You will always be breaking the batt boxes! Heck I break one every month it seems?? Thinking on getting me one of the Aluminum batt boxes!

Also--whats a good starting point to take some push out of the front of the truck! Seems no matter what I go into a turn and it wants to go straight?? Thanks:D

[cave]

WheelNut Nice ride.
tjraceing You saw it last night. Got to get another rx crystal.
winning edge designs The track I run at is a blugroove track. 1 foot wide groove.
Got Speed I didnt make it out to the race Saturday. I may go practice later today (Tuesday). That waspretty easy building the Drake. I definatly need a better engine. The mach just dont cut it.
There are some things that I have learned in this hobby. some things I know now. Alot of things I have learned from this forum.
I learned to ask the guys at my track which tires work best. The motor I got was a result of thousands of questions. The tires too. The stock losi rtr rears dont work on the SRS track to darn hard a surface. I'm still learning. But I'm not trying to be #1. I got way to many toys to do that. I do this to have fun and if I win a race or two cool. If not Oh well half the fun is participation. After all who cares if you win a race out of two cars racing. some ones got to lose. I have alot of fun running these bad a$$ trucks.
Tjraceing Oops Did I win or did you. guess i do care. heheeheheeeh
cave

[akprice]

hey juice - i'm having the same problem with the truck wanting to push around the corners. do you have a higher speed steering servo in your truck? i don't and have heard that that should help. but i would also like to hear some other suggestions on what me and juice can do to get it to turn around the corners better.

[cave]

Better front Tires something more tackier.

[cave]

I hade the same problem with the stock fronts. I now run proline blades. There a softer rubber . On the SRS blue groove track they work great. What kinda track you running? hard pack or loose?

[akprice]

i am running hard pack. i was looking at those blades. a couple of guys had them out there at the track. i was really surprised that there were only two losi's there. the rest were rc10s. one guy said that some of them used to have losi but got tired of all the problems with them and switched to the rc10. i told him, i have always been a losi guy and will always be. they both have their problems, you just have to deal with it.

i just couldn't understand how these guys were getting around the corners so fast. i know that with experience on racing i will get better, but it's hard to get better when you can't control your truck at all. i couldn't give it any gas without the back end tailing out and then on the corners it would push out wide. so, new steering servo, new tires all the way around, and some practice...and i should be there soon.

[dgrobe2112]

Price.. you can also go to Caspers website.. he has a good page to tell you how you can adjust your suspension for better steering.. and so on.. now.. when you are at the races.. check out the other trucks.. see what tire is working for them.. most likely, weather its a RC10Gt or whatever.. it will work for you as well.. Be sure to ask questions.. cuz at the track.. they will be able to show you what they did, and how it will affect the ride of the truck..

Aout RCtrixs.. i think they are a little pricey.. but then again.. no body makes these parts for a XXXNT.. other than Trinity with the aluminum rear pivot block.. and here its 29.99 for that.. RCtrix had it for 22.00 I dont really see a need for the aluminum arms.. but the rear aluminum shock tower.. i may get that..

What do you all think of that Aftershock system they have?? Worth it?? not?? what will it do as far as handling.. It kinda looks like a swaybar setup.. but different..

[akprice]

thanks dgrobe - casper's had a lot of good tips for steering.

[Got Speed]

cave- Are you going to be there this saturday? lol, yea it's all for fun. But it is fun to win sometimes too. Have you decided on a new engine for your drake? Hopefully Ill be getting a wasp off-road this summer for mine. Ill just use my old O.S. for a backup or something. I was hoping I would have my T-maxx out there to race saturday but it looks like tower is still backordered. :(

akprice- Is it a wet or dry track? You may want to look at some of the other people to see what they are running. On hard packed most likely reptiles/bowties and directionals/edges.

[Got Speed]

akprice- And, on a hard packed track you should probably run Red/M3 compound. It is best to ask around and find out. Some of it is preference too. Some people will switch to a different front if they feel there is too much oversteer for example.

[akprice]

it's a dry track. and a few of the guys there suggested getting some bow ties. they said they are overall a very good tire for most conditions. i had bought a set of the losi t-2000 because i thought that the track was going to be soft wet clay but instead it was a dry hard clay. so i am looking at getting some bow ties and some blades with the m3 compound.

[dkj-M3]

you might wanna try some holeshots too

[akprice]

i was going to get some holeshots and then decided to get these t-2000. do you think that these will work as well as the holeshots on a softer track? has anyone else used the t-2000s yet?

[mx416]

I'm finally getting my picco leaned out and it is fast. It is still running a little rich. I was running on the road tonight because there is snow on the ground again. With my slipper clutch 4.5 turns out, it would light up the tires (taper pins) for fifteen feet and then I would let off to keep the engine from revving too much.

[maxman142001]

This is my truck!

[pooldoc101]

WED- the only reason I want a slide is for the lightning accerleration they give. I've never had a problem spinning out on the corners, all the guys at the track use slides. Thought I'd try one just to see! By the way, my wasp really is starting to fly now, it's got 12-13 tanks now, and I changed to a 20 tooth clutch bell,using the Mip clutch shoes[unaltered] and I cut about 1\8" off my header and have the pipe pushed up all the way to header, my truck was noticeably faster like that. I'm gonna try the clutch as leading edge and see what it does. I,ve got a 500 point lead at the track now, but failed to make the A this time, [brain fart] in turn 3. I love the way the Wasp doesn't eat fuel, I use about 1\2 tank in a 20 lap race! And that's running slightly rich. Some of the trucks won't make the 25 lap A mains we run, but last week I had 1\4 tank left, and the trucks that can make it, by the end they're are overheating cause they had to be leaned out to make it! I just want to try a slide carb, I've never had one before, I'd gladly trade you a OS rotary off a C-12 , if you have a slide laying around:D

[winning edge designs]

Juice, Cave, Akprice, there are tons of ways to get steering as far as supension tuning, all usually compromise something else. The best way is tire selection (not much compromise) so i'll post what i've found on that subject first.......Front tires in the order of low steering to highest, almost nasty bad steering on my tracks. TeamLosi 8 Ribs, (silver then reds), Directionals( silver, then red), Razor Ribs (S then R), Razor Pins (S then R), Proline Blades (M3), Edge's (M3). Note i've never like the feel of my trucks, electric or gas with proline fronts...maybe just me?
.......Rear tires in order of lowest bite to highest, T bones (Red)Ifmar pins (M3), Flat fuzzies (M3), Reptiles(Red), TeamLosi Step pins (Red). If the track is sandy, or hard packed with little loam, then Holeshots are usually best, but tuff to get 30-45 minutes from in long races. In those cases Step pins usually are good bite and longest wearing.

If you have old, or worn tires, or both, all the suspension tuning won't make the truck handle well enough, take care of the tires first. After, one of the biggest changes i've found is moving the rear hubs and changing the rear toe-in (+.5, +1, +2 hubs). These hubs can also be used backwards to remove rear bite (left on right, etc), which adds steering on power......Ride hieght is next, most run the rear end too low. Try dogbones just above level and front arms level...After that lighter shock oil (damping)will allow more weight transfer on loose tracks, which will add front and rear traction. Heavier oil makes the truck easier to drive if there is good traction though, so alot of this is tuning to what you like, or how the truck jumps....................Hope this helps, sorry for the long post but I could go thru about 20 pages or so, LOL..........Jim

[pooldoc101]

WED- if its not asking too much, could you explain this rear hub deal a little more in depth? Are these hubs you buy or? I need a little more on power steering, I don't know what hubs I have in truck[it is a stck hub that came in xxxnt kit, not rtr] I run losi step pins in rear[red] and the front tires that came in kit[red]. Ant help would be appreciated!-Pooldoc

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by Philly's Finest
I was looking at the 2.5 traxxas engine. Could a cut the shaft to fit in the truck? If not I'll probably be getting a new fantom. :D

[cave]

Got Speed
I raced tonight. I keep eating my diff gears. but I still managed to finish 3rd. had alittle help from a turn marshall. He tapped the back end and I got a last place start. I thought I adjusted the diff correctly but I must be doing something wrong. You going to be there Saturday? I might be there.
I really liked the front Proline Blades M3s I put on for tonight. They seamed to hook up just fine. The rear Boeties did awsome too. I do wish we had a dirt track. I would love to use the step pins. Hope to see you there
Get sideways
You got to find a way to join in the fun. Did you see that guy who freaked out after the race? What a sore loser. he was even yellen at his wife. Real tough guy...
WED thanks as usuall. I drive on a real hard track and I had all new rubber tonight. Have you had better success with Losi tires on hard pack. I asked alot of the people who race at SRS what there using and they all use the Boeties on the rear. Is there an alternative? Fronts are a matter of opinion. Almost caused a big argument on that one. Any advice or tricks on how not to eat up diff gears? Just the one with the ball bearings.
TJ Lets do it again on Thursday. thanks for inviting me on a work nightheheheeheheeh. I'm still up...11:55 my time AZ
God this racing stuff Is so much fun. Except for the sore loser dude..............>:mad:
cave:D

[cave]

Got Speed When you going to get that wasp? Ive only seen 1 person with one. He 's a great driver. very precise. he won last night driving his buddies XXXNT. it had a dinamite motor in it.
cave

[dkj-M3]

cave- make sure the slipper slips before the diff & you shouldn't have any problems. check it before every run.

[mx416]

Do you guys that race leave your pressure tap where it's at on the tank or usually move it? I want to move mine to the tank lid, but none of the pressure nipples my lhs has in stock have long enough threads to go all the way through the tank lid.

[dkj-M3]

i've never had a problem with the original tank, but they have a new tank with the pressure fitting on the lid. It's the same part # as the old tank, just a rolling change.

[Juice]

W.E.D Thanks for the tips, Ill try a few to see what happens!

Cave-- I know that i was smokin diffs quite often myself, Until I switched to the Sport diff setup-which is using the spring inside the diff instead of the dag-gone washers! I Hated those washers.

Anyway after seting up my diff with the spring I have not had an ounce of trouble with it and its much smoother too! Now if you are using the spring then Im thinking you just dont have it tight enough!! So try the spring set up if you havent!

[MikeWz]

AKRPICE- The T-2000's will probably be better for you dry track. Just make sure you get the Red compound.

[akprice]

mike - yeah, i think i got the silvers instead by mistake. they didn't work very well. i was just all over the place.

[cave]

Juice

I got the sport parts. I had the slipper so it just barely gave. I just cant figure it out. I'll try something different this time. There are alot of guys who are gunna help me out on Saturday. Just hope I can make it out there. Thanks Juice
As for the "Tank" get the new design. Its alot better than trying to fix the old design. Many have on this forum. I bought the new design and I havent had a problem yet...
cave

[dgrobe2112]

Cave: i run my slipper at around 5.25, or 5.5 turns out.. that way the slipper slips before the diff.. you can check this by:

From behind the truck, with your right hand, hold the passenger rear tire and the spur gear.

With your left hand, turn the driver side tire.. watch your slipper, it it turns, then your fine.. but if it dont turn... but the wheel is turning, you want to loosen the slipper..

This will save your diff.. and it is tight enough to where you wont wear out your slipper pads either..

i rebuild my diff this way and have had no problem at all.. there is a guy at the local track.. runs his slipper all the way down.. made it through the first race.. halfway through the second.. out.. with diff problems..

[akprice]

hey, does anyone know if there are any asthetic hop ups for our truck...like different colored shock bodies or anything to make the truck look sweeter?

[Philly's Finest]

Well you could strip your shock bodies and polish them up silver if ya wanted to. If you want to add some color you could buy shock socks. They add color and actually keep some of the dirt away.

[dmann33]

Out with the Mach, in with the new CVR!

Question: Will the old flywheel work on the new CV-R? Is there a flywheel that is better than the original?

I'm also guessing that the Drive hub (disk w/ ridges) on the new CV-R will not be needed...is this correct?

Lastly, Any suggestion in tightening the clutch nut and preventing the shaft from spinning if I do not have a piston stopping tool?


Many thanks in advance.

[Got Speed]

cave- I am going to be out there about 2pm. They start racing now at 6pm on saturdays(summer hours). If your out there I can help you out with diff. If you have been running the diff for quite a while your thrust assembly probably needs replaced. It is about $5. Your rings and balls may be worn also(although that won't cause it to strip the gear). Anyway, if your going to be out there saturday I can help you out if you want? Ill probably be getting the wasp in late june. I don't have a job right now so Im doing good to get the tires and fuel that I need with only a few bucks left over, lol. Ive tried several different tires out there and the bowties seem the best to me. Losi makes the reptiles which are very similar style to the bowties. But, as a general rule losi tires work best on wet tracks whereas pro line's work best on dry tracks(SRS). I've also tried holeshots. They aren't very good when the track is real dry, best when it is damp. They get burned up pretty quick too. Im going to try a set of the TRC tires to see how they are too. Fronts are pretty much opinion, in my opinion :p hehe. I like directionals and edges. I hate 8 ribs on SRS.

[dmann33]

oh ya...

May be a stupid question.......but sould I threadlock the clutch nut?

Thanks

[Philly's Finest]

No, I wouldn't anyway. I have never locktited any clutchnut on any of my engines and have never had a problem with it.

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by dmann33
Lastly, Any suggestion in tightening the clutch nut and preventing the shaft from spinning if I do not have a piston stopping tool?


I use vice grips. My buddy uses a rag although he usually hurts himself when he changes it.

[winning edge designs]

Pooldoc, Wheelbase or toe-in? I'll touch on both......the rear hub placement greatly effects the wheelbase, but the change in handling comes from that difference having a bigger effect on wieght distribution. That is, the more forward the rear hubs are, the greater percentage of weight is on the rear end. So moving them forward adds on power rear traction and off power steering response.......As far as rear Toe in hubs, Losi has two optional parts. A9807 is +1 degree, 2 degree is A9808. We had a .5 rear hub as well, but it only went into production on the sedan.

You may want to try Ifmar pins in back, before changing the rear hubs though. I've found on alot of tracks the Ifmar pins free up the back enough to get you more steering. But you will give up a little forward bite, although if you're track is fairly soft and wet you'll not miss it at all and have alot more steering..........Jim

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

dmann33
--the prop washer (with the spiral ridges) is not req'd.
--be sure the loctite the clutch pins in the flywheel. They backed
out on my son's Mach 15 just B4 they made a real mess of the
front of the crankcase.
--I'll 2nd Philly's Finest-no loctite on the clutch nut-use Vise-Grips
to hold the flywheel.

[maxman142001]

How do I post pics on here?
Hey Gotspeed- where do you plan on working this summer? I am going to HobbyBench on 19th ave. tomorrow to see about a job.:D

[RandomGuy]

i think i just scerwd it up but im not sure. It was already tight but i was lookin at it tryin to figure out where the slot is for my break in tomorow. So I stick it in and was doin stuff and now with the diff tightness test they say its EXTREMLEY LOOSE. I keep tightening it(clockwise) and its not getting any better. Like i think i tightened it a full turn of the wheel.

Whats the syntoms of a overtightened diff? does it get really really loose ahh! Its still smooth like nothin is broken but its really loose i dont get it :confused: Can anyone help me?

also is the diff suppose to tighten without any resistance or anything that makes you know your tightening somethin?

[poopie]

Wow this thread is helpfull. Too bad I burnt my diff. The locking screw bolt on the diff screw stripped and my diff is toast. LHS is out...is there anyone with spares or could get me one? I would order online but shipping is slow and expensive. Let me know on how much you want shipped for it. I've got everything else to rebuild. Thanks

P.S.- my truck as crowd pleazer body, ofna header(heated and reshaped), Multiplex Profi 707 radio, Hitec DCX receiver, Picco RC speed .15 RE, JR servos, threaded shock bodies, TI turnbucles and hingpins, trinity aluminum a-arm block, and graphite arms. When its all back together I'll post a pic.

[poopie]

Randomguy, it sounds to me as if your diff screw locking nut is stripped out.

[cave]

RandomGuy
Sounds like you stripped the nut allright. I did that too just a few minutes ago I had a spare nut so its all good now.

[chickenmobilin]

Sorry to ask a stupid question such as this , but I really need to know.
Is the short shaft engines used in the RC10GT the same as the ones used in the triplexnt? Reason I ask is that someone is bidding on an engine that is for the RC10gt , but wants to use it for his Triple XNT

[getsideways]

cave i'll be out saturday morning to practice but im not ready to race yet. i need some more time. so you had a diff problem last night? thats no good. im going to try and go out saturday night to watch, maybe ill see you there. later

[turbochrgdRICE]

hey guys. what clutch/flywheel assembly will fit the xxxnt? I just bought a roller and i need a flywheel/clutch asembly for it. Please let me know so that i can buy one right away. Links would be helpful. Thanks again

[turbochrgdRICE]

nevermind. I fond some on ebay... but $35!!! argh

[WheelNut]

No, they aren't the same engines. The thread on RC10GT/Associated engines are really short, and can be used on Losi's, but the clutch nut wil not grab very many threads. Which could allow it to loosen easier, or possibly (just speculating) it could have more wobble, causing vibration in the clutch and robbing power. But that is quite doubtful really.

Poopie-How is the DCX? I was thinking about getting one. It sounds good, but I haven't heard any feed back on it yet.

[Philly's Finest]

Hey guys I'm thinking of selling my truck. My track is a pathetic parking lot and no one ever brings a stadium truck. They're nuts I know. Anyway how much could I reasonably expect to get for my truck.

It's the rtr verion but I have regular kit arms and graphite in rear. It has the rpm bumper, front ti turnbulkes, reciever pack, some extra springs and wheels. The engine doesn't even have a half gallon on it yet. Only thing I would keep is the radio but I would throw in a different radio so it would still be rtr.

So how much you think it's worth?

[cave]

getsideways
I will try to get out there saturday. I might go out Thursday for some night racing. See ya Saturday. Hopefully I Adjusted the diff correctly. i can turn the tire and see the slipper give. Not as good a takeoff. But it will have to do...
Got Speed Will be there too.
cave

[dkj-M3]

Philly's Finest - don't sell it just put it up, but if you have to- check e-bay to see how much they are going for.

[dgrobe2112]

You may also check the diffnut housing.. that is the plastic peice that the nut slips into.. that is what happened to mine.. i was tightening my diff, then all of a sudden.. it seemed like i was just turning and turning.. look on the opposite side of the diff scew, where you put the diff nut in.. and see if its spinning or not.. while you tighten..

If not,, then maybe the diff nut, or the screw is stripped..

[Got Speed]

dmann33- You may be able to get away without loctite for a while but eventually it will come off. I didn't locitite mine the first time being out of loctite. It came off the second run. There isn't any reason not to use it if you have it, just don't overdo it.

maxman142001- Yea, Im going to see about working there too. :)

RandomGuy- It is most likely a stripped diff nut. Once it is tight enough, turning it more will strip the nut. When the nut is new and you thread it in it will give resistance after the first turn.

chickenmobilin- They can be used but the clutch nut comes off alot easier. You deffinatly need to locitite it.

getsideways- Are you also tjracing?

Philly's Finest- I would look on e b ay to see how much they are selling for.

cave- If it dosn't take off quite as well it is probably because your slipper is looser than before you rebuilt it. Tighten the slipper in 1/8 turn increments untill it is as tight as you want it. Before driving it check the diff again to make sure that it isn't slipping now that the slipper is tighter.

[cave]

Got Speed
Tjraceing is my nephew. He has a xxxnt also. getsideways is another guy who we met at SRS. As for the diff I got it so it has alittle give. I may not take off as fast but I think it will help keep me from destoying the diff gear. See ya Saturday.

[RandomGuy]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL637&P=7

will this one work better in the XXX-NT? also where is the diff nut located? can anyone give me the part number that makes referance to it in the back of the manual so i can see it in the assembly?

is it difficult to take this thing apart? do i have to go deep inside? also any suggestions on preventing this? i think i did it while checking the assembly by holding the spur gear and the right tire and turning the left tire but im not sure....tips on how to do it once i replace the nut??

[poopie]

Wheelnut, The hitec receiver works great. It is the same one that comes with the Lynx 3d. I needed a positive shift receiver for the Proficar 707. I had a slight glitch the the Novak XXL receiver (Jr, Ko Propo version). I have absolutly no glitch in my radio system.

So anyone with a spare xxx-nt diff gear?

[mx416]

You don't have to take alot apart to get the diff nut out. Take off the rear turnbuckle and the diff nut is right there. Just unscrew it and take it out.

[dgrobe2112]

That will work fine.. you will not need the diff nut or housing for that.. that replaces the diff nut and the plastic housing for it.. If you want.. you can call 254-666-8020 ask for Dwayne.. he has the new 1HG diff nut, for 9.96.. and has them in stock and could send them out ASAp.. When you call tell him Daniel refered you..

Here is the link to the diff nut in Losi book..

http://www.teamlosi.com/RTRNT_pics/Bag%20C01.jpg

Thanks

[RandomGuy]

ok thnx :) I think im juts gonna get a 440 mini nut from a hardware store for a quick start and spend the 10 bux for the next time in breaks lol. But i guess ill have to check the housing incase thats stripped too right?

ok im looking at it and i dont know where to start hehe...how do i get the axle off here so the diff screw is exposed? and what exactly do i do from there..im lookin at the manual but theres no disassemblin manual hehe..anyone be sooo kind to give me step by step instructions through this? thnx!

[dgrobe2112]

Well, it depends on what is stripped.. if the black plastic housing is stripped.. then you could use a screw driver.. or something, and stick it in the side of the housing, and undo the scew..

If it is the scew or the diff nut.. and the housing is fine.. then you will have to get one of your allen nut drivers.. use a hammer.. place the allen nut driver in the center of the end of the screw.. on the side of the nut.. and bang it out.. kinda like you would a nail.. understand??

here is a crappy example

screw head on this side =||= and nut on this side

use a allen scew on the nut side like this =||= <------

and hammer lightly to get the scew to slide out..

[RandomGuy]

ok this is prob a reallie stupid thing im not gettin but i cant get the axle off! like theres a pin holding it into the outdrive and i have no clue how to get it out lol

[dgrobe2112]

tha axel?? that goes out to the wheel?? first you need to pull off turnbuckle.. then the wheel will do this / and the axel will come out..

also, check and make sure your axel, dogbone isnt caught in the outdrive by making a little dent in the outdrive..

[RandomGuy]

are the ball cups holding on the turnbuckles suppose to come off? cause theyre not when i pull em real hard lol

[dgrobe2112]

use some needle nose pliers.. and grip and twist the pliers down..

[dmann33]

OK,

a couple more questions about hooking up my new CVR.

I had to flip the carb to get the linkage on the correct side. rcnitro.com suggests putting permatex sealer on the neck of the carb. Is this neccesary?

Q2 Also, the fuel eyelet/nipple now faces down and away (opposite from normal). Is it safe to loosen up the high end needle body to adjust the nipple? If so, should I seal it w/permatex? Does the hole in the needle body need to line up with the port in the nipple?

awww.. so many questions... 2 LHS's could not answer these questions, but I can always count on you guys.

Many thanks in advance.

[RandomGuy]

ok im openin up the dif...so far i got the diff screw, 3 washers(one is soft) and i can see the balls down through the outdrive...i think i have to take these out to get to the diff nut right? judging from the manual it looks like it...anyways how do ya get these babies out...one fell through the hole in the middle i guess i can get that out later.

Should i take the whole outdrive out? this is gettin a hassle to reach deeper and deeper into it.

[RandomGuy]

oh crap!! did i take apart the wrong side!!! errrrr im just lookin at the manual and i think i did! is the diff nut in the outdrive on the left side of the truck? but now the stupid diff balls fell in the hole where the diff screw is inserted ahhhh crap how can i get it out!

[Got Speed]

RandomGuy- You can take the diff nut out without having to take everything else apart. How you have it now you really need to take the whole tranny apart(which requires that you take the rear half of the truck apart). Once it is apart work over something clean and make sure you don't get anything inside the diff. What you will need is to make sure you havn't lost any of the balls and put it back together exactly as the manual says. If you do then you will have great diff with no problems. You have to pay very close attention to do it as the book says. To get the axel out you need to grab the axel pins with needle nose pliers and pull it out(just be careful it dosn't fly across the room when you do, lol). If it isn't coming you will need to hammer it out with a tap or something the size of the pin. You also need to pop the ball cup off the axel carrier.

dmann33- Permatex is not required. I don't use it but it just helps keep air leaks away. Im not going to use it untill I have one, lol. You can move the nipple but you need to make certain that the holes line up perfectly.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

dmann33

--you don't need sealer when you flip the carb. When the carb is flipped, you have to reposition the carb lever so that it rotates an equal number of degrees from vertical. The nut at the base of the LSN can be loosened to allow the adjustment.

--the 7mm flat at the base of the HSN tube can be loosened to relocate the fuel nipple. No sealer is req'd.

Keep posting-we'll keep helping.

[RandomGuy]

well i got the ball back without taken the trany apart woohoo...i just took out the other side with the diff nut so it was hollow and rolled the ball to the other side :) Ok i reassembled the right side with the diff screw and stuff...with less lube because the washer over the balls dried up but it'll be alright right? cause the balls are still lubed from the washer below them.

Anyways my question now is wheres the new nut i got at my hardware store go? Theres a plastic encasing with a metal circle inside...but does this come out? and this isnt the size of the nut i got...I got a 440 mini nut from the hardware store but where does it go in this plastic encasing?

http://community.webshots.com/photo/69213850/69213906xFOGYu heres a pic of the nut i got that i dont know where it goes lol

[dmann33]

xxxOS12CVRnt - it seems like you have the same engine and car I have.

Does the hole in the fuel inlet nipple need to line up with the hole in the HSN needle body? It seems as though there is a recessed area around the HSN body to allow fuel to flow regardless if these two holes are lined up, but I want to be sure.

I welcome replies from anyone.

Thanks.

[winning edge designs]

Dmann33, sealer isn't "needed", but i've seen it save a few races after a carb retaining screw came loose! Since it also acts as a bond, it not only insures against air leaks, but insures against the carb turning, or even coming out sometimes!....I use it, but it's a matter of opinion based on people having problems, like I did......once, :).

The carb fuel inlet can be turned in any direction, since the housing has a 360 degree clearance for fuel flow to the needle bodys inlet feed......I also use silicone sparingly on these parts. And be carefull not to lose the washer on one side.......Jim

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by RandomGuy
well i got the ball back without taken the trany apart woohoo...i just took out the other side with the diff nut so it was hollow and rolled the ball to the other side :) Ok i reassembled the right side with the diff screw and stuff...with less lube because the washer over the balls dried up but it'll be alright right? cause the balls are still lubed from the washer below them.

Anyways my question now is wheres the new nut i got at my hardware store go? Theres a plastic encasing with a metal circle inside...but does this come out? and this isnt the size of the nut i got...I got a 440 mini nut from the hardware store but where does it go in this plastic encasing?

http://community.webshots.com/photo/69213850/69213906xFOGYu heres a pic of the nut i got that i dont know where it goes lol

Yes, the nut inside the plastic case is the one that is probably stripped. Push it out of the plastic casing with an allen wrench or screwdriver. I can't tell for sure but it dosn't look like that is a lock nut? If it isn't the diff will loosen if you even twist the diff with your hand.

[dmann33]

WED - Thanks.

I got the engine from your pals at Superior Hobbies since my LHS's aren't that local and didn't have them in stock anyway. Infact, I have used them about 3 times lately. I told'em you sent me.

WED or xxxOS12CVRnt - why is it important to adjust the throttle lever to equal degrees from vertical as the former suggested?

I think my former Mach .15 sucked more air than a bag pipe ran over by a lawn mower. I cringe at the thought of loosening anything on the carb of my new CVR that is not neccesary.

Thanks

[RandomGuy]

ok i guess ill pop it out and bring the nut to the hardware store and say gimme this lol thnx for the help.

but the only problem is this wont come out! lol any tips? o and scrapen off a peice of the plastic with my pliers gonna do any damage...i hope not :(

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

dmann33

Viewed from the throttle lever side of the engine, with the carb throttle lever centered (and vertical) at "half" throttle, the carb barrel and throttle lever will rotate an equal number of degrees CW to idle or CCW to WOT.

The servo arm can be similarly adjusted to be CW from centered at idle and fully CCW at WOT.

With the carb lever and servo arm so adjusted, the linkage will have a minimum of length change required from idle to WOT. The length change is done with at least one spring, typically on the idle portion of the travel.

I believe that the "if I adjust for WOT it won't idle-if I adjust for idle, I can't get WOT" threads start from that carb lever adjustment.......

[cave]

Got Speed i raced last night at SRS. Man that Mayfield guy is Fast. I placed 3rd. I think that diff problem is solved. I let it slip just a bit. I also stay off the throttle in the rough. Hope to see ya Saturday.
cave

[fezzy]

Hi guys, I have just replaced the idler gear in my transmission, I stripped the smaller of the two gears on it last weekend. I noticed that the one I took out was black but the replacement one I received was a resin colour, Are these updated parts?. Can't wait to run it again tomorrow at the track, Had alot of fun with my mate last week racing him, I won in both races of course although he disputes it cause my idler went on the last lap and I rolled it over the line :D.

I am currently running 40wt shock oil F/R (Its all I had when I rebuilt the shocks), I'd say it was abit stiff for my track and that a 35 would work alot better as my mate runs 30wt which is apparently stock in the Sport and his looks/feels too soft. I also ended up ordering a replacement tower, I wanted the AD Graphite one but unfortunately my idler went and the misses has me on a budget every week (I have two however, One she knows about and one that she doesn't :eek: ).

Oh, Final questoin.... The Losi Orange Springs, Are they softer/firmer than the red ones that are on my Sport??.

Cheers.

[Philly's Finest]

I'd like to know the same thing. The yellow ones are defintily softer. I have a pair of the AE green springs and they're a bit harder than the stock ones. I like them and like to get a losi pair that are comparable since the shop only has the losi springs right now.

edit: I decided to keep the truck since I probably wouldn't be able to recover enough for what I wanted to buy. I sold the mach so now I need an engine like yesterday.

[dgrobe2112]

Fezzy.. the new orangish color gear is a updated gear.. thats what color it is in my truck now.. they are supposed to be better not sure though..

I think a good starting point for shock oil is 35 in front and 40 in rear.. i like a softer ride.. so i run 30/30

its all about your driving style..

Orange springs will be stiffer than the red..

[dgrobe2112]

AE springs are different than Losi springs..

From hardest to softest..
blue
green
silver
orange
red
pink
yellow
white
grey

[dgrobe2112]

Good website for info like this

http://home.att.net/~casper04/Home.htm

[spoonman]

i've been trying to tighten mine and it doesn't seem to be working. i put the wrench inthe 2 slots and turn left wheel toward the back. i gave it about 15 turns and no tightening. the truck runs fine. i can spin the wheel freely while holding the other too. i just though i'd do some maintenance on it today and i haven't touched the diff in awhile. the truck has 3/4 of a gal run through it so far if that helps at all. man i feel like a tard

[fezzy]

Thanks dgrobe2112 :)

I'd say 40wt F/R is abit stiff for me, Truck gets bounced around alot on the whoopsies at the track, 35 and I think it will be as sound as a pound, The front seems very soft as it is though with the front pistons.

[dgrobe2112]

Spoonman.. i dont know what you mean by putting the wrench in the 2 slots?? You should line up the diff screw with the slots in your outdrive.. looks like this (||) the || represents the diff screw.. you wanna make sure that the diff screw dont turn.. while your turning your left wheel.. get it..

[spoonman]

that's wut i meant. the screw and the outdrive slot. lol thanks. it still turns way too much

[dgrobe2112]

you may have stripped the nuyt or screw.. or make sure that hte diff screw is reaching the diff nut.. it may not be catching any threads on the nut to pull it tight.. you know what im sayin..

|-------------- not reaching the [-]
diff scew diff nut

[RandomGuy]

spoonman-
first read your manual thorougly about the diff adjustment and stuff...but if your havin some trouble ill try to explain this a lil bit cause this diff crap just happened to my brand new sport hehe

do the diff tight test...hold the right wheel and the spur gear...try to spin the left wheel. If you have the slipper tightened all the way...the wheel should be VERY VERY hard to turn. If you have the slipper out(normal setting) then only the slipper should slip when you try to turn the left wheel not the diff. If the wheel turns very easily(what happened to me 2 days ago) then you probably stripped your diff nut from overtightening it...the manual says to tighten it 1/8 a turn at a time and then check it and so on...so if you did it a full turn and its still reallie loose you prob stripped the nut.

open up the LEFT side of the diff by taken out the axel...the screw with its washer and spring should come right out. Dont do what i did and take out the right side and start taken that apart BIG mistake and a lot of hassle. When ya get the stuff out there should be a plastic encasing with a metal nut inside of it...the metal nut is whats prob stripped. Take it out(although i cant get mine out!! arg!) lol and replace it with a new one..go to your LHS theyll get one for ya.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL637&P=7 this is to replace the entire plastic casing and nut with sometin perdy and stirdy...i just ordered one from tower but they say a week ***! lol