Team Losi XXXNT forum v5.0

[cabbynate]

I run one set up every where I go. I feel this will work on any serfice. Tires will make the only differance, after all they are 90% of your set up.

Front: toe,1dg in, camber 0dg, 30wt, 56 pistons, red springs. A spacers inside. 1 gold washer under spindle ball stud. 1 washer under bulkhead ball stud. #2 upper shock, middle arm. Spindle washer location top. #3 hole on bulk head, B hole on the spindle carrier. Arms level.

Rear: Toe in 3dg+1dg hubs. 1dg anti squat, bones just above level. 0dg camber, hubs center, 32.5wt, 566 pistons, red springs no limiters. unscrew shafts 2 full threads. MIP dogbones, #4 upper shock, middle arm. B hole on hub carrier, #2 shock tower.

Tires:
For what you are running on try Silver Directionals front, M3 bowties rear, all balanced. I almost forgot, Trinity Bomb 1 gray's in the rear tires.

That should do ya!!!
If you try it let me know how it works for ya. ;)

[Locus]

Anyone have any knowledge and/or input on this engine:

Trinity Picco TP125, P15 .15 Engine, Pull Start, Side exhaust

Looking at a second truck that has this engine in it and wanted to see if anyone had any good or bad feedback about the engine.

Thanks!

[triple x]

I like building thats why I bought the drake edition. i have two problem that I encounter while building. first is I fill the four shocks to the beginning of the top thread in the shock body with 40wt that came in the drake kit. when I finish and try to compress the shocks with my finger they were very hard especially the rear. the rear wasn't compressing at all with my finger strenght. I took a little oil out all four and now they are going in like 1/4 way and then become very hard again. Is this normal? I ck the shocks on my friend brand new xxx-nt rtr and his shocks are so soft I can bottom them out with my finger thats a big different. My second problem is my diff. when I turn one of the back whl the other move in the same direction. My friend xxx-nt rtr when I turn one of the back whl the other move in the opposite direction and I think this is how the diff supposed to work.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Hey i got another question for all of you,

Is it possible to drill bigger holes in the battery box without damaging it and put bigger screws in. The other ones are just crap and are too small so it strips easily.

You can drill it out but I found an easier way to deal with this problem. I just bought 2-56 cap head screws which fit perfectly and use a 5/64" hex wrench. These are much stronger and will not strip like the stock screws and you don't have to worry about ruining the battery box.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by triple x
I like building thats why I bought the drake edition. i have two problem that I encounter while building. first is I fill the four shocks to the beginning of the top thread in the shock body with 40wt that came in the drake kit. when I finish and try to compress the shocks with my finger they were very hard especially the rear. the rear wasn't compressing at all with my finger strenght. I took a little oil out all four and now they are going in like 1/4 way and then become very hard again. Is this normal? I ck the shocks on my friend brand new xxx-nt rtr and his shocks are so soft I can bottom them out with my finger thats a big different. My second problem is my diff. when I turn one of the back whl the other move in the same direction. My friend xxx-nt rtr when I turn one of the back whl the other move in the opposite direction and I think this is how the diff supposed to work.

It sounds like you didn't build the shocks correctly, overfilled them with fluid and missed a few steps from the manual.

One you fill the body until the fluid just touches the BOTTOM thread. Two, just screw the cartridge in two turns with the piston against the cartridge. Three, slowly push the shaft all the way down and let the excess fluid run out. Four, finish tightening the cartridge. Now your shock should rebound on its own after you push it in. Repeat for the other three shocks.

Now about the diff. Both wheels will turn in the same direction if you don't hold the spur gear or have the brake on. The wheels should turn opposite when you turn one wheel and hold the spur gear or apply the brake.

[morfracerX]

I think that means your diff is to tight if both tires go the same .What is the best way to see how much life is left in your motor maybe my cvr has had I can't tell. :(

[T/Losi]

Originally posted by Got Speed
athowells- It comes with a mach .15 engine unless you managed to get a bench built version.
Yeah, I am not talking about the Sport Version. Would the #73392 R.P.M Long Shank Rod Ends would help the rod end problem?
In the RCCA mag had some Matt Francis tips in it and it said that the instructiosn suggest that you run six bevel washers in both directions; I use all 12 on the sam side. This makes diff adjustment more sensitive but the setting won't drift. I tighten the diff all the way and then back it off 1/12 turn. Has anyone down this?
How realiable and powerful is the Dynamite .12SPD compared to lets say a O.S .12CV-X?

Cheers

[dkj-M3]

don't get that dynamite, its not very reliable, get the OS

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by stefcold
Because here up north (Canada) it's winter time, I have been rebuilding my XXX-NT from ground up. After a full season of racing everything was pretty beat up.

The engine (MACH .15) needs a rebuild, I had to finish the last race with a loaner. Anyhow when I was looking for the piston and sleeve at Horizon I found this:

DYN6582 ABC PISTON/CYL/ROD:MACH 15 $59.99
LOSR6569 PISTON/SLEEVE: MACH 15 $28.49

Looking at the P/S I've got, I would think that it isn't ABC, so I would like to know if some of you guys tried the Dynamite part instead of the Losi one.

Should I expect a big performance gain with the Dynamite replacement P/S considering it is ABC and will it last longer that the standard Losi P/S kit.

Thanks,

Stef...

Isn't the mach .15 ABC? ABC will make the engine last longer than ABN. I see the Dynamite one comes with the rod but there is a $30 difference there. If you don't see any slop in the conrod then go with the stock Mach .15 rebuild.


triple x- Once you fill them you arn't supposed to screw the cap all the way down. Here is how I do it with great results(there are several ways of doing it though).

1- Fill it to the bottom thread.

2- With the shock shaft compressed all the way put it into the shock body and slowly thread 2 turns.

3- Wait a few minutes before threading it in more.

4- Thread it in untill you see bubbles coming from the holes.

5- Back to step three.

6- Repeat that untill it is screwed all the way on.

You can also fill it to the bottom thread. Put piston in with the shock shaft all the way compressed. Thread it on half a turn. Wait for about 15 minutes. Then screw it all the way down. The excess oil will come out and you still have smooth shocks without air bubbles. The longer you wait before screwing it on the less air will be inside though.
Are you holding the spur gear when you turn the wheels? If not it won't turn opposite directions.


athowells- No, those are just ball cups. You can get parma rod ends or traxxas rod ends. If you search tower hobbies for those you can find them easily. www.towerhobbies.com. The dynamite engine loses in performance slightly to the OS and is not as reliable. For the cost of the .12 CV-X you could spend a little more and get a .12CV-R.

[Got Speed]

athowells- About the washers. I would just go with how the book has them. They seem to be fine and you deffinatly don't want the diff "readjusting" itself.:p

[[-Ecko-]xxx-nt]

I just went to my local track a week ago and was disappointed to here that they have an onorad track now also. So I went to the frequency chart and noticed that the onroad track uses the odd frequency, I thought that wasn't a problem and went to the shop and noticed all the crystal frequencys for a.m. are odd. Since I bought the rtr version it came with an AM radio and I was wondering if there is any even frequency for AM radios or is there any way to convert without buying a new radio??:confused:

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by [-Ecko-]xxx-nt
I just went to my local track a week ago and was disappointed to here that they have an onorad track now also. So I went to the frequency chart and noticed that the onroad track uses the odd frequency, I thought that wasn't a problem and went to the shop and noticed all the crystal frequencys for a.m. are odd. Since I bought the rtr version it came with an AM radio and I was wondering if there is any even frequency for AM radios or is there any way to convert without buying a new radio??:confused:

The crystal is in the back of the transmitter. If your track dosn't have any crystals that you need you will probably have to order them from www.horizonhobby.com. You just pull the crystal out of the back of the transmitter and put the new one in(same with the reciever).

[[-Ecko-]xxx-nt]

I know thatstuff, it's just that I want to know if there is any even crystal frequency for AM radios.

[RCRACER2471]

that owuld be the first one i think. Its like 24.995 mhZ.

Everyone else is it required that i have to use the stock fuel tubing that came with the kit. I want a smaller size so my run times will be longer. Will this affect anything?

[DuckTape]

LXZH50 Trinity Fuel Bottle

LX0533 Aerotrend Fireline Tubing Orange 3'

LXD742 Dubro Final Filter

LXCHA862 90511 MX-3 3CH FM 1 94102Z 62

LXUZ81 Hitec HS-5645MG Servo Torque Metal Gear J

LXS361 Kimbrough Gas Car/Truck Servo Saver

LM1616 O.S. #8 Glow Plug Standard Long

GPMQ3002 Great Planes Socket Head Cap Screws 2-56x1/2 (4)

LXK339 Great Planes Standard Ball Wrench 5/64"

LXVH20 DuraTrax Air Filter Oil 3 oz.

LXL370 Hobbico TorqMaster LC 12V 7Amp Battery

LXL353 Hobbico 12 Volt Charger U/L Listed

LXL363 Hobbico Heavy-Duty Banana Plugs-2 Pair

LXBBT8 Trinity Nitro Terminator 32 oz.

LXBBT0 Trinity 20% Platinum Quart

LXL387 Hobbico 4-Way Wrench w/Plug Storage

LXUC32 Tower Hobbies Panel Ready Locking Glow Plug Clip

LXVZ07 HPI Pro Glow Plug Ignitor w/AC Charger

TRIG1095 Trinity XP12 .12 Standard Exhaust

LOS0845 XXX-NT GRAPHITE ADAM DRAKE EDITION KIT

OFN10253 STARTER BOX with 12V motor + panel OFN10253

Combined Total: $860.42!

What else should I get (ONLY IF I NEED IT dont have too much more money to spend!!!), or to replace something on the list?

Thank you SO much, Travis

[dkj-M3]

DuckTape-
you don't need: it comes with the kit

-LX0533 Aerotrend Fireline Tubing Orange 3'
-LXD742 Dubro Final Filter
-LXS361 Kimbrough Gas Car/Truck Servo Saver

get:
-I would get the hitec 5625 servo it's quicker & has plenty of torque. Anything over 70oz. should be good enough.
-CA to glue the tires
-.050 - 1/16 - 3/32 wrench's
-Trinity aluminium rear pivot block(upgrade later)
-if you can, I'd go with the new JR xs radio. Great deal for a crystal-less radio system (& it comes with a crystal-less rx similiar to the novak xxtra)

if not-The MX3 is a good radio

[DuckTape]

Racing my friends and club-level and a couple of big races... but other than that, no. Thanks Travis.


Where would I get that radio, and how much is it(My LHS is REALLY ******)... wont carry that radio...

[Got Speed]

[-Ecko-]xxx-nt- Oh ok, sorry can't help you there.

DuckTape-

Skip these: (unless you want orange fuel tubing instead of clear)

-LX0533 Aerotrend Fireline Tubing Orange 3'
-LXD742 Dubro Final Filter
-LXS361 Kimbrough Gas Car/Truck Servo Saver

Unless you want the digital servo you could also go with a 645 for steering and a 625 for throttle.

I don't know it the fuel bottle is one with a fuel overflow stop but those are nice to have.

Replace the nitro terminator with a bottle of simple green you can get at an auto store. And/or get some denatured alchohol(same stuff as nitro terminator) at a home improvement store(like home depot if you have those where your at)

Thin CA and the ideal tires for your track.

Otherwise looks like a good setup.

[DuckTape]

Originally posted by DuckTape
Where would I get that radio, and how much is it(My LHS is REALLY ******)... wont carry that radio...

I am sorry about the word that the administrators/moderators had to change to ******... You too mods/admins, I am sorry for that, just got kinda mad bout my LHS

Travis

[losifreak2004]

Denatured alcohol will soften Losi plastic. Simple Green and WD-40 are the best for cleaning your truck.

Aaron Waldron

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by morfracerX
I.What is the best way to see how much life is left in your motor maybe my cvr has had I can't tell. :(




guys???

[dkj-M3]

DuckTape- JR XS3 sythesized FM radio system with 2 servos and receiver (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=JRT3172-75)

morfracerX- spin the fly-wheel with your finger if it's easy to turn over, it might be time for a new piston & sleeve or have it squeezed like I do for $20.

[Got Speed]

losifreak2004- That was with the older losi plastic wasn't it?

morfracerX- Like dkj-m3 said, spin the flywheel with a finger. If it turns hard it should be fine if it spins pretty easily it needs a rebuild or to be squeezed. How many gallons are through it. On average they will get about 2-3 gallons. CV-Rs wear pretty well so they can take more if you take good care of it. I know a guy who has 5 gallons on his and it is still running like the day he got it.

[Got Speed]

Oh and does anyone know of any places to buy pro line tires inexpensively?

[pooldoc101]

What do you guys mean by squeezed? Is this an alternative to replacing the piston and sleeve?

[losifreak2004]

GotSpeed - It did the same thing to the older plastic as well.

pooldoc - There are a few people nowadays who are squeezing sleeves for a nominal fee, as an alternative to replacing the piston and sleeve.

A good way to check the compression of an engine is to take the piston and sleeve out of the engine, and try to push the piston through the sleeve. If you can get the piston to the top, then it is worn out.

rcracer - Smaller fuel tubing won't make your run times any longer. Adding an excessive amount of fuel line won't make a noticeable difference either (adding a couple inches will help keep the engine running when the truck is upside down.)

The best fuel tubing to use is the stock clear stuff that comes with the kit (or sold by Losi). Other fuel line (especially the colored tubing) contains dyes that can dissolve into your fuel.

Aaron Waldron

[adlawoo]

Hi! I'm new to this section of the forum and my second post here - didn't get a reply the first time. Maybe this time, someone will help me...today I broke my 2nd servo in 3 months - good thing it is just a standard servo. My question is, how can I avoid breaking servo's all the time, I followed the manual though and maybe you guys have a trick or something to stop this....Many thanks in advance....

[dkj-M3]

Make sure the end-points are set correctly. And the servo saver is doing it's job. If it's for steering, you'll be better off with a metal gear servo.

What kind of servo?
Where is it mounted?
& what radio?

[winning edge designs]

adlawoo, Dkj has pointed you in the right direction........

Keep up the good work guys, seems like more and more guys have gotten handle on the XXX-NT and are helping out great!.....ttyl, Jim

[DuckTape]

AdlaooWell you could just get a high torque servo with metal gears, and I suggest that you get the Trinity Reciever Pack... Refer to page 133 and look for a post by dnmiester, that shows how to hook it up... I hope I helped. Travis

[OutKast]

Question. Does the trinity pack fit int the stock Rx box? and to you guys who have Nitro Tc3's will the hump pack fit in the Rx box? I just ordered my ntc3 and was just wondering if i could get away with only one pack? thanks.

[adlawoo]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
Make sure the end-points are set correctly. And the servo saver is doing it's job. If it's for steering, you'll be better off with a metal gear servo.

What kind of servo?
Where is it mounted?
& what radio?

:) Thanks dkj, Jim & Travis for your help! Are your Steering EPA set somewhere between 70-100%? I was running Standard BB Hitec's, mounted it to the hole what the manual says and my radio is 3PJS. Also, what tuned pipe you guys recommend - thus the Adam Drake Ed. makes a big difference, coz soon that rubber stinger pressed to the alloy pipe will pop out nowhere and that's it...so I'm thinking of getting the Drake or some other pipe.. Thanks again!

BTW...yeah having a BLAST with this Truck and way lot better compared to my HPI MT :mad: , which I am not running it anymore...

[grimlock3000]

i am still waiting on my 645 servo to arrive so my kit is still in the box even though i am oterwise ready to sit down and build it. this morning i decided to check out the mx3 radio and stadard servo since i tired of waiting and need something to do :) first up, i was putting a z connector on the leads of the trinity rx pack. while i had the black connector off and was getting ready to put the blue z connector on, the bare lead ends touched for a couple seconds and got pretty toasty before i noticed. once i got the blue lead on and plugged it in, it worked fine.

could i have damaged the pack doing this and now it will never charge correctly? did i just destory my $30 pack by dead shorting the cells? :( or is it fine? :D

[mx416]

I touched the two wire on my trinity receiver pack while modifying the plug and it still works fine.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
i am still waiting on my 645 servo to arrive so my kit is still in the box even though i am oterwise ready to sit down and build it. this morning i decided to check out the mx3 radio and stadard servo since i tired of waiting and need something to do :) first up, i was putting a z connector on the leads of the trinity rx pack. while i had the black connector off and was getting ready to put the blue z connector on, the bare lead ends touched for a couple seconds and got pretty toasty before i noticed. once i got the blue lead on and plugged it in, it worked fine.

could i have damaged the pack doing this and now it will never charge correctly? did i just destory my $30 pack by dead shorting the cells? :( or is it fine? :D

Most likely you won't notice it but it will probably decrease the life and performance by just a little bit.

[winning edge designs]

Grimlock, you shouldn't have done any damage to the pack. When the wires touched it made the pack begin to discharge is all, that's what they are designed for. The only problem is you're talking about the pack pulling down way faster then the servo's would discharge it. The connection got hot because it wasn't a good connection. The more important thing is if the pack got hot or not. If it didn't you're fine........Jim

[grimlock3000]

the pack did not heat up at all after the wires touched so i should be set. i was really worried that shorting the pack would just automatically kill one of the cells as the energy looped thru it. i worry about everythign too much though :p

[nitroinmyveins]

Hello, I just bought a Losi xxxnt sport rtr and need some help. I am new to gas rc and am also what you would classify a novice class racer. I ran it around the track today and have already broke the right A arm and bent the bottom tie rod hitting the boards. Question, what parts do I need to replace for durability reasons and where can I find MIP aluminum CV kits for sale on the web, everyone seems to be out of them. I figure if anybody would know where to find them you guys would. Also the wheel tension adjustment on the transmitter broke. Have any of you had this problem and if you did how can I fix it. Im sure you guys have the answers:D. Sean

[pooldoc101]

Outkast, the hump pack will fit in but the lid wont close all the way. I dont see a prolem with this as a lot of guys at our track run without any cover at all, or they run the Native racing box that is opem all the way around. I have a hump pack[4 on bottom,1 on top and the lid on myxxxnt has a 1/8 inch gap in front, sometimes it catches dirt but it is easy to clean.

[OutKast]

That sucks. why dont they make one that fits...lol what if i just made my own pack. with 4 cells and wired them together. as long as they were NiMH 1100mah it would work right? what would be the down side to this? other then a shorter run time? Then i could use it in my NTC3 as well? thanks.

[grimlock3000]

"what would be the down side to this?"

a 4 cell pack would not have 6v of power to send out to the servos. each cell in a rechargable pack will ouput 1.2v so the 4 cell leaves you at 4.8v. most servos are optimized for performance at 6v so anything less is just getting less than you paid for.

alkalines are 1.5v a cell, so using 4 gives the correct 6v output.

[OutKast]

OK thenak. what about "aaa" still not enough? i just dont see why they would make it if it doesnt fit?

[OldskoolGT]

I have the Trinity NiMH 5 cell pack for the NT and it fits in the batt box without any problems. The 5 cell packs with 3 cells on bottom and 2 on top also fit inside the batt box.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
the pack did not heat up at all after the wires touched so i should be set. i was really worried that shorting the pack would just automatically kill one of the cells as the energy looped thru it. i worry about everythign too much though :p

Oh ok, lol. I thought you meant it was dead shorted for about 30 secs. :p

nitroinmyveins- Novice class is for new, inexperienced drivers. I you can hit the top three for several weeks it is time to move up to sportsman class. I had the spring pop off in my XR-3. I ended up taking it apart to put it back on. Actually I had to replace it with a modified throttle return spring because it broke. If you do it you warranty is void and you could mess something up.

OutKast- AAAs have the same voltage but less mah. So you will have alot less runtime.

[nitroinmyveins]

Thanks got speed . Took the transmitter apart fixed the spring no problem. Wish I could hit the top 3 ounce, believe it or not I have never completed a race. I always get too pumped and get over aggressive and brake something:rolleyes:. That brings me back to my original question what parts do I need to change in the rtr so I dont brake parts as much. And yes before anyone says it "I need to drive smart not hard":D . Also does anyone make a tool for tightining the differential. I stripped the left wheel testing to see if I had tightened it up enough. Guess I did the axle didnt move, just the wheel DOHHH. I am always braking things:( . Sean

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by nitroinmyveins
Thanks got speed . Took the transmitter apart fixed the spring no problem. Wish I could hit the top 3 ounce, believe it or not I have never completed a race. I always get too pumped and get over aggressive and brake something:rolleyes:. That brings me back to my original question what parts do I need to change in the rtr so I dont brake parts as much. And yes before anyone says it "I need to drive smart not hard":D . Also does anyone make a tool for tightining the differential. I stripped the left wheel testing to see if I had tightened it up enough. Guess I did the axle didnt move, just the wheel DOHHH. I am always braking things:( . Sean

If you are breaking suspension components you may consider the stifzel parts. RPM bumper might help too depending on how you crash. But, yes, most importantly is to get a feel for it by driving the track slower. At the tone you should either get in front or stay behind. If you just go inbetween you will most likely get caught in a pile-up in one of the first corners. Try driving to well instead of fast. Try and find where the best line is by watching the best drivers and then trying it yourself(adjusting it to your driving style) and memorize the track so you know what is coming up before you get to it. Most importantly, have fun! Hope it helps.:)

[Locus]

I'm currently looking for a painted body for my XXX-NT. I've found a body but it's for a XXX-T (Dodge Team Losi XXX-T). Will this body work on my XXX-NT?

[pooldoc101]

Locus, its my understanding that the xxx-t body wont work , there is a hump on the side of an xxx-nt body to clear the exhaust. If you want a custom painted body, I would check the Winning Edge Design website, they have some awesome bodies, at a resonable price!

[OutKast]

Hey locus, i cant compare my work to jim's but i have a never raced, freshly painted xxx-nt body for sale in the fs/ft forums if your interested. pm me for details, and more pics.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113556

[Locus]

Originally posted by OutKast
Hey locus, i cant compare my work to jim's but i have a never raced, freshly painted xxx-nt body for sale in the fs/ft forums if your interested. pm me for details, and more pics.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=113556

OutKast - I dropped you two emails about that but didn't hear back. Looks nice. Drop me a line Todd. French@earthlink.net about the truck body type & $$$.

[winning edge designs]

The XXXT and the XXXNT bodies have exhaust clearance differences, but they also have the shock tower clearance further back on the gas truck. The number plate areas are about 1 inch further back that is.
The XXXNT bodies that I like are the Fury NT(Drake body), Triton NT and the crowd pleazer body line is cool too.


Thanks for the props guys, i'm trying.


NIMV, For better parts on the RTR i'd do like gotspeed said. The stiffezel or graphite material is beefier then the RTR plastic is. The graphite is alot more money and not really needed, unless you're a got to have the best guy?:)..........ttyl, Jim

[Locus]

WED - got a URL to check out some of the bodies?

[winning edge designs]

Sure, it's at www.jconcepts.net the site isn't fully operational right now though, we're working on new stuff........Jim

[Got Speed]

Those are some awesome paint jobs WED! :)

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

Pooldoc101, WED

There are also differences between the DrEd body and the early kit body around the exhaust header. The early kit will accept a recoil start engine, where the DrEd kit will not due to the low slung exhaust header.

With no need to clear a recoil start unit, the header can be tucked in tighter to the engine and mounted lower on the chassis, which allows the body to be pulled in tighter also.

[losifreak2004]

Outkast - Trinity does in fact make a Nitro Metal Hydride pack specifically for the XXX-NT, which is what I use. The four cells on the bottom are connected like a stick pack (two rows of two), and the fifth cell is on the top.

nitroinmyveins - The jitters of trying to push to make it to the podium will get better as you race more often...but they'll never leave! It just takes practice.

Aaron Waldron

P.S. Jim...you're too good :p

[pooldoc101]

We just had a clay oval track open in our area. I went to watch on practice night and all that showed up was nitro stadium trucks! It was awesome!Powersliding thru the banked corners! I'm going to go race Sunday, does anyone have experience in this? I just might retire from offroad...

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by pooldoc101
We just had a clay oval track open in our area. I went to watch on practice night and all that showed up was nitro stadium trucks! It was awesome!Powersliding thru the banked corners! I'm going to go race Sunday, does anyone have experience in this? I just might retire from offroad...

I have had some experience in it with my GT(before I sold it to get the losi, lol), but I got tired of it pretty quickly so now I'm doing offroad. It's just preference.

[dgrobe2112]

I need some help with a flywheel, i just got a Losi XXXNT, and would like to know.. can i replace the flywheel with a vented one?? Is there a certain one i need?? Can i use the Blue one From Robinson Racing?? the vented one?? Someone Email me at dgrobe2112@netzero.com and help me out..

Thanks

[BlueBlaster01]

I know this question probably gets asked a lot. But, What would be the best choice of tire for me? and What compound? (All I do is bash, run it on pavement,grass, and dirt.)
I was looking at the Step Pins from Pro Line...But in the description it says they are made of "soft M3 compund rubber" Would they wear quickly? Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

Ok, i know this answer.. if you want a pair of bashig tires.. use the tires that came in the box.. Or if you need to buy a set of tires, get the Proline Bowties, cuz thats all they are good for is bashing.. if your gonna race, i would get a set of Losi Step Pins in the Silver compound, good all around tire for pretty much every surface..

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
Ok, i know this answer.. if you want a pair of bashig tires.. use the tires that came in the box.. Or if you need to buy a set of tires, get the Proline Bowties, cuz thats all they are good for is bashing.. if your gonna race, i would get a set of Losi Step Pins in the Silver compound, good all around tire for pretty much every surface..

Bowties are mainly raced. The step pins are very similar. Get something in the M2 compound(Pro Line) or the silver compound(Losi). If you get the softer compounds they will wear out very quickly with bashing especially the street. Pretty much anything with a big tread in a hard compound is good for bashing. If you are running in real soft stuff get a bigger more aggressive tread for harder stuff a less aggressive smaller tread will work better. The bigger the tread and harder the compound the longer it will last.

[CTurbo]

Will the Crowd Pleaser Body fit the RTR with the stock header or I will need the ADE header?

[dgrobe2112]

yes, the crowd pleazer will fit, but you gotta make sure its the Crowd pleazer for the XXXNT not the XXXT...

[winning edge designs]

Gotspeed, thanks!

xxxOS12CVRnt, true, when we made the tool for the drake body our preference was for a sleeker look in the gas truck class. And since it is a race oriented truck we eliminated any unneeded bulges that were on the early body design. We also were hatin' on the two bumps in the hood, so those were removed/improved as well.

Aaron, whats goin' on man? ....You Da' man! :D


Blueblaster, I would try some T bones, or Reptiles in silver compound. But remember, no matter what off-road tire, or compound you use, the pavement will kill off-road tires in no time........Jim

[losifreak2004]

If you are looking for a tire that will be used for bashing, pick up the Losi Smasher (A-7680R)

Bow-Ties are made for racing. In fact...they are Jared Tebo's favorite tire!

pooldoc - Adam Drake ran a oval race on New Year's Eve...said the speed was just incredible.

dgrobe - Any flywheel that is specified to fit a Losi truck will work with a Losi clutch bell. Watch out though...a vented flywheel is often times lighter than the standard flywheel, and will make the idle more finicky, and make accelerating more difficult.

I have run the stock flywheel in long mains quite often, and have never had a problem with the clutch overheating.

got speed - That sounds reasonable, but many times, a softer tire will last longer, because the pins will fold over instead of wearing out.

Aaron Waldron

P.S. Jim...you da man! You answer too many questions for your own good :p

[triple x]

I am almost finish building my adam drake edition and I have two question. I was setting up the brake linkgage and notice when I roll the truck and apply brake it does not stop but it stop the spur gear from spinning. could this because the spur gear is not adjusted yet, its at the intial setting of five turn out from close
my next question is when assembling the exhaust what should the distance be between the header and the pipe inside the silicone coupler

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

Truck Rolls/Spur Stopped=Loose (extremely so!) Diff.........

A 1/2-3/4" gap between the pipe and header will be a good starting point. The length of the gap tunes the pipe, i.e. short gap-pipe "comes in" at higher RPM (end of straightaways): long gap-pipe "comes in" at lower RPM (out of the corners).

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
If you are looking for a tire that will be used for bashing, pick up the Losi Smasher (A-7680R)

Bow-Ties are made for racing. In fact...they are Jared Tebo's favorite tire!

pooldoc - Adam Drake ran a oval race on New Year's Eve...said the speed was just incredible.

dgrobe - Any flywheel that is specified to fit a Losi truck will work with a Losi clutch bell. Watch out though...a vented flywheel is often times lighter than the standard flywheel, and will make the idle more finicky, and make accelerating more difficult.

I have run the stock flywheel in long mains quite often, and have never had a problem with the clutch overheating.

got speed - That sounds reasonable, but many times, a softer tire will last longer, because the pins will fold over instead of wearing out.

Aaron Waldron

P.S. Jim...you da man! You answer too many questions for your own good :p

Yea unless you are running on street too. Hehe I found that out the hard way a while back. I tried tuning my XXXN-T before the race in the street with M3 bowties 3 runs up and down the street and half wear :eek: never do that again. I guess it depends on the conditions.

Here is a question of mine. Does anyone know the specs on a Airtronics 151 servo? I can't seem to find them anywhere.

[triple x]

Originally posted by xxxOS12CVRnt
Truck Rolls/Spur Stopped=Loose (extremely so!) Diff.........

A 1/2-3/4" gap between the pipe and header will be a good starting point. The length of the gap tunes the pipe, i.e. short gap-pipe "comes in" at higher RPM (end of straightaways): long gap-pipe "comes in" at lower RPM (out of the corners).

what exactly should I adjust, the screw in the outdrive or the nut on the spur gear. technically this is all part of the differeintial assembly. thanks alot for the info

[dgrobe2112]

Did you put the truck together?? If so, then you may check the diff screw in the outdrive, cuz when you put it together, the manual states that the outdrive should be tight to where you cant turn the diff gear when holding the 2 outdrives.. so check that out.., basically put it to factory specs, again..

[BIGBADBOWTIE]

Instead of looking through this entire thread for this question, I figured I would just it again .... Is it possible to make a pilot shaft engine work on a xxx-nt.

If so.... please explain in detail!

Thanks In advance for any help that yall can give.
Ray

[winning edge designs]

triple X, it'll be important to have a frim grasp on each components name and how to indentify it for proper adjustment and maintenance. The "differential" is only the White diff gear, balls, rings, thrust assembly and two outdrives. The "spur" or "slipper" assembly work completely independently of the "diff", but greatly effect it's life span between rebiulds. The entire drivetrain assembly, or "transmission" houses all of these components and the brakes as well as being the rear shock tower support.

If the brakes stop the spur, but not the truck, the diff is terribly loose and will melt in a hurry if ran under engine power. Tighten the diff screw from inside the outdrive using a small screwdriver in the slot of the bolt head. While having the screwdriver inserted turn the opposite wheel clockwise and you should feel the "diff" tighten. Recheck the slippage by holding the right rear tire with your palm, spur with you right fingers and spinning the left rear tire in your left hand. If the slipper shaft spins inside the spur, the diff is tight enough. If you feel slipping, but don't see the slipper shaft turning, the diff is still loose, or the slipper is too tight.....try again and recheck............Hope this helps, Jim

[dgrobe2112]

Good one Jim.. and if i am not mistaken, i beleve the screw is on the driver (left) side of the diff. and you will turn the passenger (right) side tire....

[banditwing]

I have heard that the side that the screw is placed on does not matter and is mainly a matter of prefrence. If you got a preassembled rtr, then the screw is on the right side (same in the manual).

[AreCee]

Originally posted by BIGBADBOWTIE
Instead of looking through this entire thread for this question, I figured I would just it again .... Is it possible to make a pilot shaft engine work on a xxx-nt.

If so.... please explain in detail!

Thanks In advance for any help that yall can give.
Ray

Losi's site explains it best; http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/xxxnt_crank.htm

[winning edge designs]

Banditwing, True, no matter which side the bolt or nut is on when friction can overcome the locknuts tension it will loosen during cornering under power. The only thing that changes when you swap the diff around is it would unload and loosen in a right turn rather then in a left turn. The only two reasons the bolt loosens is worn locknut, worn/dry/incorrect thrust bearing assembly.

The manual does show the diff screw in the right/passenger side outdrive, but I run mine in the left, like my electric kits, for ease of memory (gettin old?)......................Jim

[excitable]

anyone having problems with the rtr kit?
well i am.
1, the tank i got leaks gas back into the pipe when not running. emailed losi about it ..got no reply.
2, i`m spending more on parts then on fuel.
i`ve already snaped one a-arm, broken one of the steering pivots.
and most of the front nose cone.
tonight after getting everything fixed the front hub broke at the ball cup.
now i love this truck..and am not really bi@%h`in.
me and a friend bought 2 of these kits . and run the same locations and same times and his hasnt broken anything(besides the spur when he broke the motor in )
i know the rtr kit isnt made in u.s.a
and as a person who used to work in plastics i can tell you that the plastic they usin isnt virgin plastic.

:eek:
not good.

[RichA]

losifreak2004

You had posted the answer earlier, and I wanted to ask you for the part number for the pack you mentioned.

Outkast - Trinity does in fact make a Nitro Metal Hydride pack specifically for the XXX-NT, which is what I use. The four cells on the bottom are connected like a stick pack (two rows of two), and the fifth cell is on the top

Thank you

Rich A.

[losifreak2004]

RichA - Trinity Part No. RC5300

excitable - You might have better luck with the regular plastic Stiffezel parts, or even graphite.

As far as the tank draining back into the pipe, pick up one of the newest gas tanks, which have the pressure fitting located on the lid instead of lower on the tank. That should solve your problem! (and stop your engine from ever hydro-locking).

Aaron Waldron

[excitable]

probly but i cant see the point in getting a kit then spending $$$$ just to upgrade to plastic.. and graphite is just as shatter prone as plastic.
and i know about the new tank losi is installing on the trucks..its now a $20."upgrade" that should have been instaled at the factory.i`m going to be giving losi a call about the tank to see if they will send me the new style. i`ve had the truck less then a month now
i`ll post back and let all know what they saycuz its a real problem. i have pets and i have to make sure every drop is out of the tank or it fills the exaust.
i dont get hydro lock. unless i flood it myself. other then the problems i mention its a great truck.
it just seems i got the lemon of the lot
:mad:

[stefcold]

After a full season of racing and because it was beginning to fell 'grainy', I've decided to rebuild my differential. After I took it apart and a quick inspection everything seems fine. Please note that I'm using a RTR diff with the spring. Should I change the spring for washer like the kit one, I'm very satisfied with the spring, my diff lasted all season and like I said everything seems ok.

I would like to know if you have a list of parts you always change when rebuilding a diff, I've heard some people always change the mini locknut, also what about the diff adjusting screw?

Also what would you recommend to clean the outdrive, the diff nut carrier, ect... basically everything that was exposed to dust, sand, ect...

I have some WD40, but because it water based I'm hesitant to use it.

For the re-assembly I have MIP diff lube, do I need anything else?

Thanks,

Stef...

[dgrobe2112]

Well, i reccommend, when rebuilding the diff, to clean the parts, use some Electric motor spay.. it works wonders.. of course you will need to clean your bearings, and reoil them.. Also.. 3 out of the 5 guys out here when they rebuild there diff, they replace the balls in the diff gear.. now i know i aint supposed to say this but they also use Associated diff balls.. i havent had to redo my diff yet, but thats what they say.. also, check your diff washers, make sure there are no scratches on it, and also, if your truck has the older style thrust thrust washers, with thrust bearings.. style that you have to put together.. Losi has a new assembly you can buy.. all you gotta do is greas it.. I reccommend changing that.. but definitely,

clean bearings, replace diff balls, use electric motor spray to clean parts (dries quickly too) and reoil and lube everything, you will also need to get losi grease.. or some associated black grease..

[stefcold]

Yes my XXXNT is a year old and the Thrust Bearing isn't assembled, meaning I have 7 little ball bearing and 2 washers, I have to put them in some grease and hope everything hold together. It is part no. A-3099. I saw on Horizon a molded trust bearing assembly (A-3098) is that what your taking about?

Also why are people using AE diff balls instead of the Losi one?

[dgrobe2112]

That is the assembly i am talking about.. use that, adn put some grease on it.. cuz the first thing i did when i rebuilt the diff on my XXX KE buggy was lose a ball..

They told me that the AE diffballs are structurally better, but i really dont know why.. i dont see why they would be better, but they use the AE anyway.. if you ask me, i think that all parts like that are the same, just put in a different package..

[stefcold]

There is also the MIP Super Diff Rebuild Kit, there isn't one for the XXXNT, but there is one for the RC10GT, it included 12 carbide diff ball that feature the hardest and roundest carbide balls made (so they claim). It actually cheaper that the Associated or Losi balls and included the lube and diffs ring. I assume the RC10GT diff ring wouldn't fit the Monster diff. Anybody has some comment on the MIP diff balls?

Team Losi also has a Monster Diff adj. screw kit (A2910) that included: mini lock nut, diff nut carrier, washer, diff spring, diff adj screw, foam thrust bearing seal and a beveled washer . I think I'll be getting one of these also.

[Racin Rev]

excitable,
I like the gas tank set up but I will admit that fuel does back up into the pipe. I solved this by legnthening the fuel line to about a foot and using forceps between runs. Actually I use two forceps, one to clamp the fuel line to the carb and the other to clamp the line to the expansion chamber. works great and cheapo forceps are not expensive or hard to come by where i am.

I haven't broken any Stiffezel parts on my kit, and I am into my second season. I would say upgrade when you break.

Things I have broken are ball cups, now replaced by a combination of rpm cups and bolink captured ends, tie rods, now replaced by ti units, and clutch bearings (the stock ones are junk imho) replaced with considerably cheaper aftermarket units which work splendedly.

[winning edge designs]

A quick tip for rebiulds that involve small parts, in fact all rebiulds. Use a pit towel and have some spare towels around as well....not the ones in the guest bathroom, but ones that are OK with the wife/mom to use!......This will also come in handy during biulding of fresh new kits, since parts will never roll away! You can even use old T shirts as well................Diff balls get expensive, LOL....Jim

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by stefcold
There is also the MIP Super Diff Rebuild Kit, there isn't one for the XXXNT, but there is one for the RC10GT, it included 12 carbide diff ball that feature the hardest and roundest carbide balls made (so they claim). It actually cheaper that the Associated or Losi balls and included the lube and diffs ring. I assume the RC10GT diff ring wouldn't fit the Monster diff. Anybody has some comment on the MIP diff balls?

Team Losi also has a Monster Diff adj. screw kit (A2910) that included: mini lock nut, diff nut carrier, washer, diff spring, diff adj screw, foam thrust bearing seal and a beveled washer . I think I'll be getting one of these also.

I am using the MIP balls myself right now. I really don't think that the ae, losi, or mip balls are any if much different at all. For diff balls I usually just go with whatever is cheapest. Here is what you need: a new thrust assembly, rings, balls, and nut. You should replace those and the diff gear, and it wouldn't hurt for a new thrust seal, and bolt. I would suggest. The diff screw kit that you mentioned above. Diff gear, balls, and rings. Ive never heard of the new molded thrust assebly. Do you have a link?

Thanks

[ryanbakewell52]

Hi i and a couple of freinds have xxx-nts and we all have the same problems everyone mentions on this forum with the diff. Stripping gears, nuts and generally having the interaction between the diff and slipper wrong. Admittedly this is our fault as this is not the sort of truck you start with (despite it being rtr) i feel that rtr suggests begginers can use it when actually ive had three nitro cars and electric too including a tc3 and even i cant sort this diff out.
The main problem and the mst annoying is what you have mentioned, losing those damn balls, i am in the process of ordering new gears as i have stripped both nylon ones (great!) but ive lost the balls yet again, at the moment i am using the tc3 balls tjust to keep it all together.
I am very interested in this one piece moulded diff bolt set as it would make life alot easier please copuld i have a link to it and can i get it in th Uk as yes im a brit.

cheers, im sure il get to race it some day lol!

[winning edge designs]

Ryan, the diff and slipper adjustments aren't as complicated as they may seem. Just remember, the slipper must slip before the diff does. If you have to tighten the diff to ridiculous, nut stripping pressures, the slipper is too tight.
Alot of the trouble comes from racers wanting the slipper locked, then trying to force the little tiny mini nut to hold too much force trying to lock the diff. Don't set the slipper any tighter then 4 turns out from bottomed. Some need 6 or so turns out from bottomed to be close. This is why 5 turns is the TeamLosi starting point.

Diff balls...it won't matter if they are A/E, MIP, TeamLosi, etc. as long as they are 3/32, they all buy from an outside supplier either way......The TeamLosi carbide balls are more money and will last thru 4 or 5 pairs of diff rings, since they are harder.

I think the molded thrust assembly is LOSA3018?........Jim

[jammer]

just wanted to let people know about the Radio Shack Temp gun is currently on sale for $30. I know that I have read this is not as desirable as a raytech, but at 30 should be considered.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

Ryan, WED's post really says it all about how to adjust the diff. Too many people try to tighten the diff adj. screw so much that they either strip the nut or cause the thrust bearing to fail.....

Thrust bearings-I used the molded thrust bearing (i.e. one piece; no individual balls to lose!) and the RTR spring when I rebuilt my truck for '03. Unfortunately, I cannot confirm the p/n from WED.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

....the dangers of a late-night post...........!

With 3 XXX-NT's in the house, when I bought the parts for my rebuild, I bought (2) of p/n A-3098 Molded Thrust Bearing With Hard Balls. That part # includes the thrust washers also.

Gerry

[RCRACER2471]

WED, where can i the molded thrust assembly? can i get it at stormers? I havent use my truck yet but if it prevents from something missing ill get it....

[winning edge designs]

I buy all my R/C supplies at Superior Hobbies in Casselberry Florida. They have a website at thier name, plus dot com. Or call them at 407-834-9299. They have a huge inventory, inlcuding a 3000 sq foot showroom and it's run by racers who know alot about racing. Everything from Gas on-road 1/8th scale to mini Z's, off-road, RTR's, electric, etc.....They are also the U.S. importer for Corally and have full page adds in RC Nitro magazine........Check em out, Jim

[cave]

Today i bought a Losi xxxnt and after I ran 2 tanks of fuel through the motor, break-in. Ran it around in circles like the
break-in instructions say to do. I ran it through the grass and some how broke the Rear Pivot Block part # A-2127. I didnt even get to jump it yet. Does any company make an alloy substitute? This really ticked me off.
Its the RTR sport.
I posted this on the nitro forum and got a responce that trinity makes one @ 29. bucks any one know the part #? Is there another company who makes one? Where online can I get one?
Please SOS
Thanks in advance.
cave:D

[Lewis]

:confused:
Hey i have a question for you guys. I got my xxx-nt the other day and I got it used but it had only one tank through it. I tuned it and did the norm. But i wanted to get a tuned pipe for the O.S. 12 CVR rotary engine and wanted to know what pipe you guys prefer. Like for the best power and speed. thanks.




Sincerely,
Wade (a.k.a. Lewis)

[Got Speed]

Lewis- The drake pipe and the FT AE pipe both do very well. They are pretty well balanced between speed and power.

[dkj-M3]

cave- rear pivot block (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=TTK5056)

[dgrobe2112]

CAVE- pivot blocks are one of the first things you will need to upgrade, especially if you do offroad. The local track here is oval, so its not necessary, but.. even on the electric truck, i had to replace the front and rear on my truck.. if i am not mistaken, that is the part that is underneath the front bumper right?? and in the NT, the rear is what goes around the motor?? but there are aluminum parts for it.. go to google.com, and type in aluminum RC parts, and you get a good selection from that..

[stefcold]

GotSpeed, Ryanbakewell53,WED: The molded thrust bearing assembly is part # A-3098, here a link to the part info page at Horizon: http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA3098

WED: You mention that I should be going thru about 4-5 set of diff ring before changing the carbide diff balls, nobody advise me of changing the diff rings.

I'm rebuilding my diff for the first time because it started to fell 'grainy' also it's the offseason and I need someting to do :-) It has about 3-4 gallons on it! Do you recommend changing the diff balls or the diff ring, neither or both?

Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

You dont need to change the diff rings, unles they have scratches, or have a groove in them from the balls. then you will change them, they arent that expensive... so you may just want to change them , just to know you did.. also, the grainy sound you hear is most likely dirt in your outer bearings.. thats what mine was.. you can clean those outer bearings pretty easy..

Here is a question of my own.. Can i use regular cleaner, like carburator cleaner, or brake cleaner instead of electric motor cleaner?? the reason i ask is because

Electric motor cleaner at my LHS $4.95
Brake cleaner at Auto Zone $1.29
Carborator cleaner at Auto Zone $0.99

big price difference.. also with since i just got a nitro truck, it is very messy compared to electic, can i use that to clean my truck off?? of course dont get it in the motor...

[dkj-M3]

stefcold- if they have a groove on them just flip them over, after cleaning them.

[LasagnaCat]

I know that I have read this is not as desirable as a raytech

Going back a couple days to the Radio Shack temp gun... it's (internals are) made by Raytek, it's printed on the circuit board if you take it apart ever... We've checked a couple of them at the track against 'real' Rayteks and none of the four of them ever varied more than a degree or two from each other on everything we checked.

[banditwing]

Yeah I have the Radio Shack one. I picked it up for $30. I think it was a good deal. It seems pretty acurate too. I think the spot ratio size is 3:1 compared to rayteks 6:1.

[cave]

dkj-M3 & dgrobe2112, Thanks for the info I guna get one.
cave.:D
rear pivot block advice

[winning edge designs]

Stefcold, I flip the rings over in a pinch. But the best way is to replace them ,since they have two different sides. If you look closely the rings are stamped from one side, so they have a flatter side and a rounder side. I use the flatter side when biulding the diff new, or freshening, but flip the rings in a pinch at the track... Note that E clips also have a smooth(curved) and sharp(flat) side. Those should face smooth rounded side towards the plastic part, so they don't snag.

Dgrobe, a trick on the electric kits is to use longer mounting bolts, with 4/40 mini nuts on top to pinch the block a little in back. Adds alot of durability........Jim

[dkj-M3]

thanx Jim I never realized that, I thought both sides were flat, well its time for a rebuild anyway. The point series starts this Sat.

\/

[slammed87]

hey, i gotta question,

which engines directly go inot the triplexnt?

im thingking of

the

os.12 cvx or the dynamite .12spd with pull start

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by slammed87
hey, i gotta question,

which engines directly go inot the triplexnt?

im thingking of

the

os.12 cvx or the dynamite .12spd with pull start

Any .12 that has a standard shaft. A short shaft will fit but try and stay away from them because without tons of loctite the crank nut will come off very easily.

[ryanbakewell52]

Hi everyone, this is just for all the brits (sorry guys)

I have made some enquiries about the moulded thrust bearing set we were talking about earlier and i have found that it is available in the uk too now and the part # is A-2098 i think but if you check your parts booklet in with the kit then ask whoever you are buying from about the moulded par they should have it on their parts books. I rang modelsportuk but im sure you can get it from any losi dealer.

cheers (yesssss no more losing little balls!)

[dgrobe2112]

no more losing them.. cuz that was the first thing that happened when i did a rebuild.. and i was upset.. cuz then i had to drive 30 minutes to the LHS..

[slammed87]

He


Hey, how is the dynamite .12spd engine? is reliable? is it fast in the xxxnt?

[dgrobe2112]

I have heard 50/50 on that motor.. a little low in power, rated at .5 horspwere.. but for the price.. 75 bux with a pull starter.. cant beat that.. some like it, other dont.. I have personally never had one.. almost got one.. but didnt, went with the OS .12 CV-X, it is 115.00 right now at tower.. it is rated at .56 HP.. with a 2 year warranty..

[slammed87]

hey,


so there is not a much power difference btween them

[dgrobe2112]

the Dynamyte .12SPD has a outout rating of .50 hp
and the OS .12 CV-x has a output rating of .56 hp.

go to http://www.nitroreview.com/compare/homeengines.cfm
for info on the motors...

The only good thing between the 2 is the price differnect of about 40 bux.. but like i said.. would you rather buy a truck with a Dynamite motor in it, or a truck with a OS motor in it..

Dynamite is good, but the name OS is better, and me personally would rather have a OS motor becuase of ease of getting parts..

[cave]

I dont have any spare parts for this new XXXNT. What spare parts do all you who KNOW have in you spare parts box. Spur gears? A arms. Oops I lied I got 1 grafite pivot box replacement part.
Thanks,
cave

[slammed87]

would the os .12 cvx be faster than the stock mach motor?

the stock xxxnt rtr's goe 37

how fast would one go with the os12

and how fast would one go with the 12.spd

[winning edge designs]

Cave, get some ballcups, Titanium ballstuds for inner camber locations if you can swing it and a bag of body clips (they seem to get lost and appear on friends trucks?).

Slammed, the only O.S. engine I know to be faster is the CV-R, or TR. The standard Cv isn't faster, but may be a good replacement when your engine gets tired.

Since you're asking "how fast", i'll assume your an R/C rookie. That's a dead give away! Speed on these is relative, since fuel type, gearing, tire size, carb settings, air quality and a bunch of other factors can have a Huge impact. I've seen two of the same equipped trucks run 5 mph different. Besides, if it looks like it's going pretty fast do what most do and say it goes 70 mph, LOL.....Most are lucky to get over the 35 mph mark.......Jim

[cave]

winning edge designs, thanks for the advice. I got plenty of body clips. (From my friends) .:D J/K Have you had problems with breaking front A arms? Just trying to prep for a day at the local track. I would like to be prepared with this truck.(xxxnt) -
Mucho Gracias
Thanks
Ducashan
cave

[dkj-M3]

if you want to go fast on a budget I suggest you get the new 03 Fantom, Jesse Robbers who runs for Fantom said it's too much power for racing.

[DethKing]

Where do I get one??????

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Originally posted by DethKing
Where do I get one??????

Buy a 90 degree pressure fitting like the one made by GS racing and drill a hole in the lid. Then plug the original hole with a screw or silicone.:)

[dgrobe2112]

as far as spare parts go.. i would definitly get some spare arms, some spare ball studs, cuz they will break, extra screws all types.. body clips.. lets see.. extra spur gears, and some extra parts for the internal of the tranny, meaning balls, and gear lube, and grease.

Now my question.. I was told at my LHS, by the owner, who dont like Losi.. he is a AE all the way.. thats fine.. But he talks bad about the XXXNT diff, saying i need to replace the main gear inside with a Robinson racing one, and also the nut on the diff screw.. you know the one that tightens or loosens the diff, it sits in the outdrive.. do i need to replace those or not?? i mean.. the XXXT truck has the same stuff, why would the Nt be worse??

[stefcold]

Going from esperience, you NEED these has spare parts especially if your racing:

Rear pivot
From arm
Ball cup
Ball studs

I wouldn't spend to much $$$ on some spare tranny part, if your diff is properly adjusted it should last a long time, I did a full season on mine and when I did rebuild it everything was fine.

Spend those extra $$$ on tire, insert and wheels, there are the MOST important setup part for winning races. Also having some suspension part (different spring and oil) is also important.

Stef...

[stefcold]

dgrobe2112: I was told to stay await from these aluminiun gears because they will eat the plastic one... also the way Losi design there diff is for the mini locknut to fail before the entire diff.

For the locknut I still use the one that Losi make, but alot of people are using regular 4-40 nut that are less prone to stripping and harder than the losi one.

But I'd rather having a 1$ part has the failure point so when it fails it will cost me only 1$ to fix my truck

[dgrobe2112]

Makes sense.. the aluminum Robinson racing gear is 20 bux, and your right, i would probably eat up the plastic gears on the inside.. Now a regular 4-40 nut will work.. here is a dumb question.. where is that 4-40 used else where.. so i can make sure that is the correct one that i am gonna use.. if im not mistaken, that is the screw that is on the front of the XXX buggy right?? or not??

[stefcold]

Here's a quote for FastFreddy at page 139 of this thread concerning the aluminum gears:

"According to Bill @ Team Losi the aluminum gears have more friction and worse tolerances. The stock gears are smoother and faster. Enough reason for me to stay stock. "

Has for the locknut, a lot of people are buying standard steel 4-40 locknut from hardware store. These are more durable that the aluminium nylon inserted ones that come with the kit

[Got Speed]

3rd place last night :) Only 3 people though.

Anyway, I am going to have my track's store order some of those molded thrust assembly. Im going to stock up on some of them and go stock up some more 4-40 nuts. Seems those are the two major culprits of a loosening diff. Otherwise the balls and rings last about as long as my engine.

Here is a link some guys might be intrested in. They have aluminum nuts and bolts in all different colors and sizes that you can buy in as little as 25. www.fastenerexpress.com

[dgrobe2112]

That link dont work...

[stefcold]

Try www.fastener-express.com/

[RCRACER2471]

Hey Everyone,

What can i buy to prevent my a arms from breaking. Ive heard that thats the first thing to break. In about another month ill be using my car and i want everything prepared with spare parts etc. So is there any alternatives besides the stock?? Arent graphite pretty much the same except a little lighter???

[dgrobe2112]

Graphite is stronger and lighter, but it will break.. as far as arms go.. there are some aluminum ones you can get.. but they arent worth it, cuz they will bend.. really, just be easy on your truck.. race it of course.. but stay out of the walls, and no cartwheels.. i have had my truck for a while now and have not broke one part yet..

[dkj-M3]

How to make your outdrives & dogbone pins last a long long time.

Niftech Products (http://www.niftech.com/catalog/index.cgi?mode=LOSI)

check out the "Precision Swiveling Flat Drive Pin Assembly for Dog Bone Axles and Main Drive Shafts" They really work.:D

[winning edge designs]

Dgrobe, what I like to tell GT fanatics when they utter nonsense about something they know nothing about is this...."The XXX-NT will be perfect as well, after 8 or 10 years of development".

The aluminum gear is heavier, causes heat transfer to the compound gear and strips it, plus it's expensive. When adjusted right my diff (as yours will) outlasts the outdrives! I only use the stock gear, nut, lube, etc. But I always make sure my slipper slips before the diff and I never try to lock the slipper, then try and get the diff to force it to slip.

The Niftech products are very cool and well made. But by the time you use thier parts you could biuld three stock diffs........I priced some sedan stuff once and he had me up to $300 for diffs and axles....Ouch!.....It's ok if you have money to blow, but none of it is really needed......imo, Jim

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks winning edge design.. thats what the losi website said.. i went to there website and clicked on ask the team.. and they said almost exactly what you said..

[cave]

I really do appreciate all the advice and help you all are giving me. This XXXNT is all new to me.
I got the Trinity rear pivot block today. Now whats all this I'm reading about the tranny? All my LHS sales people say that this truck is equall to Ae in this area. We're they all BS'n me to sell me this Losi. I Did alot of home work before buying this truck. Part for part these trucks seem similar.
At the track I see both trucks and the best driver allways wins. Just seams the best drivers are drivin XXXNTs. I dont know what engines they use but even the stock one do great...:p <<<<<<Thanks again to all of you who took the time>>>>>>>>

[losifreak2004]

I THINK the new nut assembly is available to the public...maybe not. Basically, it's the molded adjuster, and the nut, all in one piece. This part was "prototype" a couple of weeks ago...so I'm not sure

I have used stainless steel nylock nuts in the past with good success, but it's like Jim said...the stock parts are made to work the way they do. Build the diff correctly, and it will last a LONG time (my outdrives get worn so badly that the suspension moves up and down as the dogbone pin finds the groove in the outdrive).

RCRacer - Graphite will be stronger if you live in a warm-weather area (warm is when sweatshirts aren't needed).

Trinity's rear pivot block (TK5056) is nearly indestructible! The Losi Ti ballstuds are quite hard to break as well. I have found the yellow Losi ballcups to be VERY durable. Arms, however, are going to break when you run into things.

Jim - LOL In 8 to 10 years, the NT will also handle like a 2x4 compared to the newest trucks :p

Anything else?

Aaron Waldron

[dgrobe2112]

As far as the Losi tranny, there is nothing wrng with it.. The guy at my LHS, i think is a little upset, cuz i went to the competition to buy my truck.. cuz this guy told me he couldnt get a Losi truck yet.. All he could sell me wat the RC10 GT plus.. so i took it on my own to email the wonderful Adam Drake and this is the response i got..

From: Adam Drake [mailto:adrake@horizonhobby.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 9:21 AM
To: 'dgrobe@sturdisteel.com'
Subject: RE: XXXNT help


Hello, glad to hear you purchased the Team Losi XXXNT Drake edition. It is a great truck, I think you will be happy with the purchase. The tranny will hold up for a long time if adjusted properly (this goes for any R/C car or truck tranny). You don't need to buy any aftermarket tranny parts. I run all Team Losi parts in my tranny. The only upgrade I run is the Team Losi alum. topshaft, but the stock (steel topshaft) works fine. When building the tranny keep in mind that you never want the diff to slip. Always make sure the slipper slips before the diff. You can check this by holding the right rear tire and the spur gear in one hand and then turn the left rear tire. Watch the slipper spring and plate. As you turn the left rear tire the spring and plate should turn. This means the slipper is slipping before the diff. If the spring and plate don't turn your diff is too loose or the slipper is too tight. A good starting point for the slipper is to tighten it all the way down and then back it off 5 full turns. This is just a starting point. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions or need help with anything.

Adam Drake
R&D Team
4710 E. Guasti Road
Ontario, CA. 91761

So I personally think that my LHS guy was a little mad cuz i went to the competition to get my truck.. he saw a sell walk right out the door..

[RCRACER2471]

losifreak2004, how will warm weather make graphite any stronger than it is????

[losifreak2004]

dgrobe - Where do you think I get advice from? LOL...I race with Adam Drake every week...he's an awesome guy!

rcracer - Warm weather won't make graphite any stronger, but cold weather makes graphite more brittle....as long as it's cold enough to need a sweatshirt, graphite will be more brittle than the Stiffezel plastic. When it is warmer, however, graphite parts will take more abuse.

Aaron Waldron

[RCRACER2471]

thats what i thought. Well im starting out with bashing with my new kit and wanted to make sure my car will hold up and then when it comes to be then April or May ill start racing at my local track. Just want to have a STRONG car!!!

[winning edge designs]

Aaron, I bet it will handle better then a 2x4, even in 10 years. LOL. The GT is old, but still a good truck compared to modern gas trucks. Of course they have changed a significant amount of parts while retaining the main platform, Chassis, A-arms, trans parts, arm mounts, body, etc. But you knew that..........I'll stick with my XXX-NT though!
There was a guy at our electric regionals running a gold tub RC10, he didn't make the A main, but he beat alot of modern cars, we all know driving still plays a MAJOR role, haha.....Jim

[pooldoc101]

Does anyone know if a sway bar is made for the xxxnt? If so where can I get one?

[losifreak2004]

Jim - I just can't get a GT to fit my driving style...

I like this board better than TTT...I'm not a "Novice" here! HAHA

pooldoc - There is no rear sway-bar kit for the NT. I think there's a swaybar for the front of the XXX-T that will work, but I can't find it.

Aaron Waldron

[winning edge designs]

Aaron, me either! Besides, the GT looks so dinasaur-ish, imo, LOL.

pooldoc, the XXXT sway bar kit is A4142. It includes both front and rear sway bars and hardware. The rear may work with some trickery using a dremel?... None of the team guys use them because of long mains having a negative effect on thier reliability, but mostly because gas tracks are usually too rough for them to be any advantage....Jim

[Sike]

hey guys... I was using my short lived O.S. 12 CV-R side exhaust. I transfered my MT 12 engine from my 4tec but the header is sticking out so much..I had to cut the body out. I see the header from (the very losi like) MST-1 and that header seems to make it fit inside the body. anybody know the part number of it or a better alternative? I tried speedtech and nitrohouse but no such luck.

thanx in advance
-Sike
>=]

[losifreak2004]

Sike - http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2002prods/Rear_header.htm

Jim - Dino-ish...LOL

Aaron Waldron

[dgrobe2112]

Losifreak.. must be nice.. i am so impressed with the quick response from the Losi guys. And i am like the rest of you guys.. I raced T3 and i just couldnt get any faster.. I preached the word of T3 to everyone i knew.. cuz when i drove my T3, i noticed that all the losi's would break.. break an arm here, had to fix this there.. but i figured it out, that i was just slow enough in my T3, that i wouldnt break anything..

Switched over to Losi, and i havent changed driving style or anything, just took the truck and drive it hard.. and i be damned if the thing didnt respond to me..

Unlike my T3, i had to respond to it, the harder i drove the T3, the slower i went, cuz i would spin, or flip, or something.. so i had to adjust for my T3's dinosaurish racing style, where with the Losi, it responds to my dinosaurish racing style.. so i will be getting better..

[losifreak2004]

All the guys at Losi are class acts...Adam is one heck of a driver, and probably one of the nicest guys you could ever meet.

I've never owned an Associated car or truck, but I've driven plenty of them...and they just don't fit my driving style.

Aaron Waldron

[mx416]

I can't wait to be able to race my XXX-NT! Right now there is about 1 1/2 feet of snow on the ground here in Michigan. I had one of the first XXX-NTs that came out (it had those weak tranny gears) and then I sold it just because no one else had them here. I ended up watching a video of nitro trucks while racing electric trucks on indoor carpet oval and decided to get a new one!!! It's sitting in my room now, waiting for the snow to melt.

[pooldoc101]

Thanks Jim, I wanted to try a sway bar for oval racing, now that I,ve got all the speed my RB gives me I'm having trouble in the corners! Thought a sway bar could reduce roll. I read that it would, on a dirt oval website.Also I see my inside front tire lifting in the corners and a sway bar would prevent this. So they say!

[RCRACER2471]

I got another question for you. Is it possible to polish the stock pipe and manifold that came with the kit to give it a more shinier look?

BTW, why did they use plastic for the stinger?

[losifreak2004]

mx416 - They are definitely a lot of fun! Those early gear problems are over.

pooldoc - What setup are you running right now?

RCRacer - Which pipe do you have? The Drake pipe? The silver one? Or the one from the Sport RTR?

Aaron Waldron

[pooldoc101]

Aaron, I'm running the set up in the kit manual. The kit came with step pins[red] and the edge[red] on front ...so you're from escondido? I grew up there, moved away 20 years ago. The truck initially, upon entering the corner , tries to hook, after I get it straightened out and get back on throttle, it pushes hard to the wall, causing me to get back out of throttle. I think the hook is due to me letting off throttle too quickly, the push is what really hurts me. Any help would be appreciated! Like I said I'm running setup from kit, red springs all around, I,m not sure of the oil weight and dampers in shocks.

[RCRACER2471]

.

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
mx416 - They are definitely a lot of fun! Those early gear problems are over.

pooldoc - What setup are you running right now?

RCRacer - Which pipe do you have? The Drake pipe? The silver one? Or the one from the Sport RTR?

Aaron Waldron

The silver one that came stock with the XNT kit.....

[mx416]

I really liked my truck before, but no one else had them. Now my lhs owner & son are racing gas in gaylord. I'm going to be racing with them which is alot more fun than by yourself.

[losifreak2004]

pooldoc - Lived in the same house for all my 16 years! It's been a great place to grow up, and my family has been here a long time (1958)

Try running Adam Drake's Standard setup from the Losi website. If the rear end feels like it is dumping (inside front tire wants to lift), try going to the B-hole on the hub. If your truck is still having issues, I have another setup for you to try that is made for smooth, high speed tracks....Adam ran his normal setup at an oval race in Bakersfield on New Year's and said it worked great.

RCRACER - Any ol' chrome polish and a clean towel will work.

mx416 - Well, hope the gas class takes off! We get about five heats a weekend at the least.

Aaron Waldron

[cave]

losifreak2004
maybe you can help me out. I'm having a problem with the fuel flooding out the carb. I got fuel running out through the pressure line side. I keep loosing fuel from this line to the pipe. I got the fuel line hooked to the one that feeds the fuel. The tubing is looped to the pipe. I replaced the tubing. I have gone both ways on the low idle adjustment. Both ways on the high idle too. I've moved it so many time s I cant remember how many turns out on each is factory. I emailed losi teck support but I dont think Ill get an answer right now . I want to try this truck out in the dirt...Any help from any body else would be appreciated. Help, cave
Ps I can get it to run but it dies when I give it throttle.:confused:

[winning edge designs]

Sike, there is also the TeamLosi Triton gas truck body, made to clear early rear exhaust headers. Part # A-8025.

Well, as far as experience racing different brands, in the 16 or more years i've been racing, i've raced EVERY brand. From Tamiya, Marui, Race Prep, A/E, Kyosho, Composite craft, TeamLosi, Serpent, Yokomo, Traxxas, Picco, etc. After short lived trial periods, I always went back to and felt more comfortable with the TeamLosi stuff. I try not to bash other brands, especially since they are all really good, compared to cars from the 80's. But rather then bash something I don't use, I talk about the ones I do........usually. Sometimes a button may get pushed here or there, but you know how that works, LOL.

Pooldoc, you may want to try 35 wt, 56 pistons and orange springs in the rear, middle arm, #4 tower. This cured my "dump" problem and gave me more traction up front under power. It basically seemed to stop the rolling sideways and back, etc.......

[winning edge designs]

Cave, if i'm reading your post correctly, you maybe too rich on the high needle. For an O.S. engine, try 1.5-2 turns low end and 2 1/4 high end starting point.

The way to test for a too rich, or too lean problem is this....Test for Too rich first, by pinching off the fuel supply line. If the engine tries to fire after doing this, it's too rich, lean it down 1/4 turn and try again, without pinching the line, repeat if the engine still won't fire. For a too lean condition, try blocking off the exhaust stinger while starting the engine. If it tries to start, your too lean, richen 1/4 turn and try again.....If neither of these work, look at your plug and ignitor. Assuming there is no blockage in your fuel system, the only other source of a problem can be worn engine, or bad vacuum leak.........Hope this helps, Jim

[cave]

winning edge designs, Jim, Yea It does help. I got the rtr and it came witha mach .15. I'm not a big fan of it right now. I tryed from low end 1 turn to 6 turns. High end also same deal. I cant figure out why the fule gets pushed out the pressure tube. ya think my hpi .15ss would fit? Ive' wasted a quart of fuel and 4 plugs three c size batteries. Ill try that finger on the stinger deal again. Thanks Jim (winning edge designs)

[losixxxnt]

the fuel being pushed out the pressure line has nothing to do with the engine,its a bad design on the fuel tank.try to find the updated tank and that will solve the problem.

[ryanbakewell52]

wahey finally something i can help with. The fuel tank problem youre having is easily solved by cutting the tube which runs to the bottom of the tank i did this and it has solved it straight off. just try a craft knife inside the tank to cut it off.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

cave, as you are on the 3rd or 4th tank with your Mach 15, make sure that the head temp is up as you start to pull harder and longer on the throttle trigger. My son found that the Mach 15 will run with very rich needle settings and can damage itself (snap went the connecting rod)....the textbook cold break-in scenario.

[cave]

xxxOS12CVRnt


I'm buying a temp gun today. That should help sway away from. I foun out last night how rich the settings have to be. I'm leaning it out micromillameter ata time. Thank you

ryanbakewell52

How much did you cut off? How did you get inside the tank. Special tool or will a pare of diks work? Thank you

losixxxnt

Does Losi offer this tank or can I get it from Horizon hobbies. Is it a aftermarket hop up? losixxxnt can you give me a part # My local hobbie shop is GT central so its kida hard to get questions anwered before a lecture on parts availabuility. Tho they have had all the parts I have required like monster diff rebuild.

winning edge designs

I finally got it runnin. I did'nt know how rich the low end needle had to be. My OS and .55ss & Rossi's never required so many turn out on the bottom. Runs real good no. Takes afew pulls to start but I ran two more tanks though it just to make sure I get a good break-in Thank you.
:D :D :D Now I just have to get it on the dirt today and all will be good.:cool: This Site Rips you all are great people. Wish you all lived here in Arizona. Maybe we can hook up if any of you race at the Cactus Nationals.
If any ones knows the part# and brand for the fuel tank, slip me a E mail THXs
Late.
cave

[pooldoc101]

Thanks Aaron and Jim, I,m gonna try those things to straighten out the truck. I raced today and won the a-main, never even leaned it out! I found if you were'nt ripping down the straights, you cornered better, I think because you had more time to set up the corner. The guys with motors leaned out would pull me down the straight, then I'd dive under them in the corner and exit lower and have the inside line 'locked up'. They were doing the same thing I was doing last week, flying down the straight, having to get out of it hard to make the corner, trying to get it straightened up and not being able to get on the throttle cause their truck would push to the wall! I still wanna get the handling issues solved, cause I love to fly down the straight. My RB is well suited for this, Thanks Jim for this bullet




Pooldoc101

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
xxxOS12CVRnt


I'm buying a temp gun today. That should help sway away from. I foun out last night how rich the settings have to be. I'm leaning it out micromillameter ata time. Thank you

ryanbakewell52

How much did you cut off? How did you get inside the tank. Special tool or will a pare of diks work? Thank you

losixxxnt

Does Losi offer this tank or can I get it from Horizon hobbies. Is it a aftermarket hop up? losixxxnt can you give me a part # My local hobbie shop is GT central so its kida hard to get questions anwered before a lecture on parts availabuility. Tho they have had all the parts I have required like monster diff rebuild.

winning edge designs

I finally got it runnin. I did'nt know how rich the low end needle had to be. My OS and .55ss & Rossi's never required so many turn out on the bottom. Runs real good no. Takes afew pulls to start but I ran two more tanks though it just to make sure I get a good break-in Thank you.
:D :D :D Now I just have to get it on the dirt today and all will be good.:cool: This Site Rips you all are great people. Wish you all lived here in Arizona. Maybe we can hook up if any of you race at the Cactus Nationals.
If any ones knows the part# and brand for the fuel tank, slip me a E mail THXs
Late.
cave

I live in arizona and go to SRS(Scottsdale RC Speedway) regularly. I will be watching the Cactus Classic(since it is electric only) too. If you need some help Id be glad to help you out.

SRS probably has the fuel tank. The part number is: A-9310

[triple x]

out the box I notice my ballcups have a lot of play on the tie rod links and the camber links, do any one know any remedy? or any upgraded part # to get.

[winning edge designs]

Cave, no problem, any time! Btw, if your fuel is running into the pipe after shutting the engine off is a problem, the tank is the fix for that. But it won't effect the lean or rich condition much.


Pooldoc, cool, glad it went well...A main, win, SWEET!......ttyl, Jim

[winning edge designs]

Triple X, the play in those parts is needed to keep them from binding. BElieve it or not, if it's too tight the truck will be harder to drive. You'd also feel the bumps more, etc.
But for my rear camber links i'm trying Pro-line's new rod ends for Tmaxx along with super duty lunsford turnbuckles.........Won't bust anymore rear ballcups now!!!........:), Jim

[cave]

Got Speed

I was @ srs today (SAT) way too muddy. and kinda lakeish. We ended up going to butcher jones and got side tracked into the overflow . there is some trails in there and we found an area that had some jumps and made a few too. Me and my nephew will be at srs early sunday. If the trucks hold up we will be there all day. If its still a lake we'll go back to the Stewart Group camps site By Suguaro Lake. I have a white Tahoe with the AZ lic. plate CAVEMAN. Look forward to meeting you.
Re: catus classic, I was there last year as a spectator. Those Elects are purdy fast. Didnt know that they didnt race Nitros. What a loss...
cave

[Juice]

Use the ttk5062 brace! It a brace that supposed to help support the battery box? I have not seen one personnaly but I think it would do me good, since I keep breakig batt. boxes! I cant find a pic of it anywhere! So if anybody is using one let me know how it is! thanks

[Lewis]

Well, hello all you fellow XXX-NT drivers. I am have been into r/c for about 5 years now and i am new to nitro. I have a xxx-nt and its my first nitro and have had problems with it but i love it. I was wondering if anyone in here had yahoo messenger cause i have lots of little probs i need help with and didnt want add tun's of post for little stuff. My yahoo is Lewis95624. If you like to chat about r/c send me a message.:) I have the worst luck with r/c so i have money only for short periods of time. Anways i will post later. thanks guys:D

[ryanbakewell52]

Glad i can be of use, 'got speed' just use a craft knife or a pair of lexan body scissors (the bent ones' the cut it off. its a good idea to put an allen key into the tube part way so you dont pull the whole thing from the top of the tank. cut off about half of it. just as long as it isnt touching the bottom of the tank itll be fine and shouldnt spit all over your legs lol.
cheers


its actually aaron, (ryans friend cos ive forgotten my password lol)

[grimlock3000]

i finally got some free time to put my truck together today. i have just started bag b and have some questions.

is the white unlabeled lube in bag A what i should be using on the servo saver? besides the engine mounts, where should i be using loctite? and finally, for bashing, should i use the kit setup or the drake setup? thanks :)

[dkj-M3]

Juice- thats the transmission brace it's just blue aluminum, don't get it. it has a weak point mine snapped.

Lewis- just post away

[Got Speed]

cave- Im going to be there, not this saturday, but the next. So the 1st of March. Are you going to be there?

grimlock3000- The white grease is the thrust bearing grease. It is used on the the thrust assebly in the differential(don't use it on the diff rings and balls, just the thrust rings and balls which are the smaller ones)

dkj-M3- Are you talking about the trinity aluminum pivot block? If so how did you manage to break it?! :eek:

[grimlock3000]

"grimlock3000- The white grease is the thrust bearing grease."

whoops, i already put some on the servo saver. it has not eaten through the plastic yet so i suppose that is a good sign. if i should have used something else i can just clean it and relube the two parts ;)

my kit is going together very well. the front end of the truck is much more sturdy than i was expecting. so far and the instructions are good and i have had no issues following along. i have the wrong size rpm driver so i have been using the allen key for all the cap head screws. i have the wrong size ball cup tool as well. the ends of my fingers are getting rather raw so i am going out for some adjustable pliers to help put on the ball cups and the right size ball driver for the cap head screws. i gave up when i was trying to put the rpm ball cups on the turnbukles and my fingers hurt too much to keep turning :)

current progress:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/losi1.jpg

[teamchicken]

ok ive been in the hobby for about 3 years and im planning on adding another truck to my collection. and it will most likely be the xxx-nt sport rtr. i have experiece building kits, but this time i think i want to just drive it out of the box. so i just wanted to know anything you guys know about the mach .15. i was wondering if it runs well if its not perfectly in tune. and does it start easily. thanx

[dkj-M3]

Gotspeed- no, the brace that connects to the upper deck.

[grimlock3000]

i got two female outdrives and no male outdrive. i have the diff pieces all laid out in front of me and noticed right away when i went to build the diff. there goes my kit building fun :(:(:(:(

time go go find the part number and place an order from horizon...

[winning edge designs]

Woah! A broken Aluminum pivot plate? Usually the rear arms snap after going to an aluminum rear plate?

We had a ton of broken trucks today, from every brand. Of course that may be in part due to the table top on the main straight. The trucks are sailing about 8-10 feet high and 35-40 feet in the air.....When the 1/8th scales (me included) doubel the table top and single after it, yourtaling 12-15 feet high and 65 feet long in flight!!!............LOL, Needless to say, not only did I break my truck, I also broke my Kyosho buggy, as did lots of others. Pulling shock ends off the shafts was popular!.....Jim

[cave]

Got Speed

My nephew and I were there all day today Sunday. What a mud pit. But Tires sure did hook up. I'll try to be there March 1st. I dont know what weekends I have to work yet. What do you think of the mugen .12. Saw two losi with em today. They hauled. Those .12 are quick.They cleared that big jump on the left like it was a mogul. I think I found my future engine:D
By the way this was the first time I was able to leave that track with a running truck...This truck is pretty cool...
cave

[Got Speed]

grimlock3000- It shouldn't hurt it, but it will attract dust. If you can clean it off, if not it shouldn't be a big deal. Email losi about the problem and they should send you a replacement nearly as quickly as you could get it from horizon. I had a defective suspension arm on mine(I was still able to run it). So I emailed them and had it in 4 days.

teamchicken- It is an ok engine. It is a normal sport engine. The difference is they wear out faster and are slower and less powerful than "racing" engines.

dkj-M3- WOW, how did you do that?

cave- Cool, hopefully I can see you out there. Ive got a red and blue Drake with silver lighting(I'm 15). Ill be pitted at the east side of the track(probably on the corner). I get there about 1pm and stay till about 10:30pm. The Mugen is a good engine but Id take a wasp instead. They are about the same price but the wasp has a slight edge in power, speed, and is about the same in how well it will hold a tune. BTW: how old are you?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cave
Got Speed

My nephew and I were there all day today Sunday. What a mud pit. But Tires sure did hook up. I'll try to be there March 1st. I dont know what weekends I have to work yet. What do you think of the mugen .12. Saw two losi with em today. They hauled. Those .12 are quick.They cleared that big jump on the left like it was a mogul. I think I found my future engine:D
By the way this was the first time I was able to leave that track with a running truck...This truck is pretty cool...
cave

Oh, and. If you are still new at tuning you may want to look at a CV-R. Many people run them at SRS and they are compareable to a Mugen. Usually I double the jump and come out ahead of the people trippling it. Many people have been broken from trippling that, since it is in the corner. Anyway hope to see you there. :)

[WheelNut]

grimlock3000-you were asking what you should be using locktite on. Use it on all screws that thread into metal. No others, I've heard locktite is bad for plastics. And what you going to be running in the new truck? :)

Hopefully I'll be able to buy my CV-R pretty soon. Of course I won't be able to break it in until the roads are clean, which could be awhile! :eek: Oh well the T-maxx runs great in the snow! SO that will tide me over until then. :D

BTW-If I got my XNT kit before christmas does it have the new better tank that doesn't empty into the pipe? If it doesn't will relocating the pressure line pickup to the tank lid help/fix the problem? I think I heard you can run a 13'' pressure line also, but I don't remember.

[cave]

Got Speed

how old are you?
Well I got a kyosho optima thats older than you. Dont take that Wrong. I'm 37. Imagine being 14 with money. Thats me.
Before I get a faster motorI got to learn how to drive this two wheel drive. Got Speed, What servos have a realtime effect? I got the JR XR 2 with the RTR. The servos have a slow reaction time. Could I get a couple of faster servos?
"Many people have been broken from trippling that, since it is in the corner."
That was me :D I'll try to be there March 1st. I work in scottsdale so If noe early maybe later. Are you racing that day?
cave.

[hdcchrome]

Originally posted by Lewis
Well, hello all you fellow XXX-NT drivers. I am have been into r/c for about 5 years now and i am new to nitro. I have a xxx-nt and its my first nitro and have had problems with it but i love it. I was wondering if anyone in here had yahoo messenger cause i have lots of little probs i need help with and didnt want add tun's of post for little stuff. My yahoo is Lewis95624. If you like to chat about r/c send me a message.:) I have the worst luck with r/c so i have money only for short periods of time. Anways i will post later. thanks guys:D

Lewis,

You can call me. Email for the number Click here to email me (hdcchrome@yahoo.com)

[hdcchrome]

So, how does this happen?

[hdcchrome]

I chose to replace with a RRP gear, but I am still concerned as to why this happened and what I can do to avoid it. This is NOT my first RC, but it it my first slipper clutch tranny.

[dkj-M3]

Hdcchrome- your slipper might of been to tight, you have to make sure the slipper slips before the diff. Or the diff was too loose.

Jim- Not the pivot block, the tranny brace by the carb.

Gotspeed- I have no idea!:confused: The next day after a race when I was doing regular maintenance on my truck I noticed it had a hair-line fracture, when I took it apart I found it had actually broke. The trinity blue aluminum brace is a lot lighter than the stock losi one, & its dremeled out, I guess to reduce weight. well thats the weak part of it & thats where it snapped.

[Got Speed]

cave- Ok, lol. An inexpensive yet good high torqu/speed servo to run is the Hitec 645MG servo. It is metal geared has aprox. 130 oz/in of torque @6V and aprox. .2 transit speed. That is what I race with. It would be nice to have a lightning fast servo but I don't have $150 to drop on a servo, lol. Yes, I will be racing on saturday. I like to play around trippling that thing after the races but if I do it during a race I will usually loose about a second. It is also fun to hit the three drop offs(don't know what they are called,lol) going backward. Anyway, it starts around 4pm. I'll be there about 12-1:30pm to get set up and practice. Hopefully Ill see you there.

hdcchrome- When the diff is to loose and/or the slipper is too tight. If the diff is slipping instead of the slipper. You are gauranteed the diff gear won't last more than a few minutes. The RRP gear can prevent you from stripping your diff gear but it wears the other gears alot faster, and dosn't remedy the problem of a loose diff. Next time hold one wheel and the spur gear from moving in one hand while turning the other wheel forward in the other hand. If the top shaft and slipper plates move and you don't feel anything else slipping then you have adjusted it to where the diff will be safe. Some people lock their diffs. I used to untill I finnally got the hang of adjusting it. You just have to make sure the lock nut is in good condition as well as the thrust assembly. If they are and the diff isn't slipping it won't loosen itself of strip out again.

[hdcchrome]

Thanks for the info dkj-M3 and Got Speed

[grimlock3000]

I emailed Losi last night after checking this thread and got this reply less than 12 hours later:

"Sorry for the inconvenience, your parts are being shipped today."

That really made my day :D

"And what you going to be running in the new truck?"

WheelNut, I will be running with a Hitec 645 steering servo, Lunsford turnbuckles, RPM ball Cups, RPM front bumper, Trinity receiver pack, and an OS CV-R .12.

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by Got Speed


hdcchrome- When the diff is to loose and/or the slipper is too tight. If the diff is slipping instead of the slipper. You are gauranteed the diff gear won't last more than a few minutes. The RRP gear can prevent you from stripping your diff gear but it wears the other gears alot faster, and dosn't remedy the problem of a loose diff. Next time hold one wheel and the spur gear from moving in one hand while turning the other wheel forward in the other hand. If the top shaft and slipper plates move and you don't feel anything else slipping then you have adjusted it to where the diff will be safe. Some people lock their diffs. I used to untill I finnally got the hang of adjusting it. You just have to make sure the lock nut is in good condition as well as the thrust assembly. If they are and the diff isn't slipping it won't loosen itself of strip out again.


i have tried to lock my diff but i stripped my screw. not the nut. my screw snapped. i think it was because i was driving my car with the diff loose and it grooved the rings which made it easier to slip while i was tightening the screw... so i kept tightening untill i would hear a bark or chirp. but nothing. until the screw snapped. is this normal? how tight do i have to tighten my screw untill i hear a bark??


also, i'm reassembling my diff again after the incedent with the stripped screw

which way do teh convace washers go next to the nut: like this?


#1) OUTDRIVE>>>>>>>>>>>>NUT(w/ the plastic housing)

#2) OUTDRIVE<<<<<<<<<<<<NUT(w/ housing)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by rccarman5
i have tried to lock my diff but i stripped my screw. not the nut. my screw snapped. i think it was because i was driving my car with the diff loose and it grooved the rings which made it easier to slip while i was tightening the screw... so i kept tightening untill i would hear a bark or chirp. but nothing. until the screw snapped. is this normal? how tight do i have to tighten my screw untill i hear a bark??


also, i'm reassembling my diff again after the incedent with the stripped screw

which way do teh convace washers go next to the nut: like this?


#1) OUTDRIVE>>>>>>>>>>>>NUT(w/ the plastic housing)

#2) OUTDRIVE<<<<<<<<<<<<NUT(w/ housing)

You really arn't supposed to lock your diff but you can. When you do it is much more likely you will strip a nut or, in your case, break the bolt. With the diff locked you loose a lot of traction too, so it will spin out alot easier in the turns. If you still want your diff locked you will have to drive it a little different. When you are turning you will have to stay on power through the turns. Next time thread the bolt into the nut untill it reaches the nylon insert(you can tell when it get's a little harder to turn) then turn it a half a turn more. Work the diff back and forth 2-3 times. Then tighten it about 1 1/2 and do it again about 2-3 times. See if the slipper slips. If it dosn't continue tightening the diff 1 1/2 turn at a time untill the slipper slips first then tighten it about 1/2 - 1 turn(depending on whether the diff nut feels like it will strip or not). Now run it in a figure 8 patter for about a 30 seconds, then check it again. Do the same 3 times before you put it on the track. After that check it after every run for about 5 runs. Then it is a good idea to check it every day you run it to be on the safe side.

[rccarman5]

how tight should the slipper be set at?

[rccarman5]

how should i put my concave washers and what should the slipper be set at?

[Got Speed]

There isn't really a good place to say to start as far as turn wise because some people thread the top shaft only partially. Anyway start so that it will turn pretty easily while holding one wheel and the slipper and turning the other wheel. If when running it the engine RPM goes way up but the car dosn't accelerate very fast then you should tighten it and 1/8th of a turn at a time untill it is where you want it. Check the diff every time you adjust the slipper though.

[rccarman5]

no i mean the slipper settings for when i set the diff. and which way should the 12 concave washers go..

do u have aim? can u im me.

aim - radiocontrolhead

[jcnmt]

hey w.e.d. are you gonna be at the r/c pro series this weekend?

[Juice]

I replaced my concave washers with the sport type Diff spring!! I tell you my Diff is tons smoother now and I have not had another problem since! I really think Losi should get rid of those concave crap washer set up for the Diff---"my thoughts":D

[winning edge designs]

jcnmt, Yes, i'll be there. I may not get to run pratice friday, i'll be busy at the shop. But i'll be out early sat a.m.

Juice, the RTR spring is used to speed up factory assembly, not because it's better. In fact it applies less pressure to the diff then the 12 spring washers do. It is less sensitive to adjustments, it gives a wider range between locked diff and tight enough, so it's better for rookies to the XXX-NT.


I use a simple method for diff and slipper adjustment. First, adjust the diff as you might in an electric truck, then add about 1/4 turn more tension. Adjust the slipper about 5 turns out from bottomed. Test the adjustments as described by others in recent posts(holding wheel and spur in right hand, turn left wheel, etc). Be sure the slipper nut and plates are turning, otherwise the diff is slipping. At this point, if the diff slips, you have a decision to make. Loosen the slipper, or tighten the diff. If the diff feels like a posi, or has been tightened alot compared to an electric diff, loosen the slipper. If the diff feels like a gear diff and spins really sweet when you try and impress your buddies with it, tighten it a 1/4 turn at a time until it is right....recheck and adjust as needed again..........Hope this helps, Jim

[Twist 2 Go]

Hey all, I'm thinking of getting a Drake edition xxx nt. or a MST-1. What upgrades if any are needed on the Drake truck and what's a good off-road engine for it? I'm not new to nitro or off-road but I have never ran the 2 together. Thanks for any info?

[Juice]

Jim, I didnt mean it was Better per say! Its better for me anyways than the washer setup! Im sure both are fine to use, whichever one seems to right for the individual
...I have had the spring type of diff all my life in my Associated cars/trucks and when I came across the Losi setup when I bought my truck, I was like:confused: I used it for a while and seemed to burn up my Diffs. Since I have switched over to the spring, all has been wonderful-no more smoked Diffs and they seem to be a lot smoother after Many, Many tanks of Nitro;)

[winning edge designs]

It's all good in da hood, heh..........When I ran associated kits I did like some things better as well, But I like more about the TeamLosi stuff right now... And I remember strange barking noises from a too tight slipper and frequent rebiulds on my A/E stuff as well.
I think it's just about learning each kits requirements or quirks. Then it's all about da racin'!.......ttyl, Jim

[losifreak2004]

Twist - Personally, the NT fits my driving style better than the MST-1. It feels more stable and smoother than the MST-1. Also, there is much better parts and people support for the NT.

Aaron Waldron

[nitroinmyveins]

Hello, has anyone ever had a problem with the Trinity alluminum rear pivot block being missaligned? I installed one on my new truck because everyone at the track said I needed one. After the install my truck handled like s$#t, every time I eased on the gas the rear would kick out to the right. After close inspection I realized the rear was pointing to the right. So I took it back apart and saw that the screw holes werent drilled in the right spots so they didnt align with the chassy plate properly. Did I install it wrong or is this a common machining problem from Trinity. Also does anyone know of a quick fix for this or should I send it back to Trinity. Thanks Sean

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by rccarman5
no i mean the slipper settings for when i set the diff. and which way should the 12 concave washers go..

do u have aim? can u im me.

aim - radiocontrolhead

The washers should face 6 facing out and 6 facing out the other way. So the concave side is facing each other.

[losixxxnt]

Originally posted by Got Speed
The washers should face 6 facing out and 6 facing out the other way. So the concave side is facing each other.

According to my DE manual all the washers should be facing the same way,with the concave side toward the outdrive.

[pooldoc101]

I've never had trouble with the washers yet! Now watch, I'll fry my diff sunday! But anyway, does anyone know if you can cut the sg shaft to work in a xxxnt? I race dirt oval and these sedan high horse motors are the bomb for that, it's just hard to come by one that has a threaded shaft, and if you do it's always got the rotary carb, but the slide is better for oval.

[nitroinmyveins]

Hello, has anyone ever had a problem with the Trinity alluminum rear pivot block being missaligned? I installed one on my new truck because everyone at the track said I needed one. After the install my truck handled like s$#t, every time I eased on the gas the rear would kick out to the right. After close inspection I realized the rear was pointing to the right. So I took it back apart and saw that the screw holes werent drilled in the right spots so they didnt align with the chassy plate properly. Did I install it wrong or is this a common machining problem from Trinity. Also does anyone know of a quick fix for this or should I send it back to Trinity. Thanks Sean

[Got Speed]

losixxxnt- That is what mine says too. I have heard of people running them all different ways. There was a slip in some of the bags too that said to run them like this <<<<<<>>>>>>. That is what I am running now and don't have any problems. I like it more than the 12 all in one direction.

Some people say that changing to the spring made a night and day difference and vice versa but really they are pretty much the same.

pooldoc101- I though about that too but never really looked to hard to see whether I could or not since I'm not going to buy a new engine for several more months at least. If you find anything let me know please. :)

nitroinmyveins- I have never heard of the problem. I don't own one myself. I would email Trinity about the problem.

[pooldoc101]

GotSpeed, if you look close at them, they have a picture on the losi website under tech tips, it looks like you could. WED probably knows, hopefully he'll reply.

[rccarman5]

so do they go:::


#1 outdrive<<<<<<<<<<<Nut?

or

#2 outdrive>>>>>>>>>>>Nut?


just say #1 or #2 thanks.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by pooldoc101
I've never had trouble with the washers yet! Now watch, I'll fry my diff sunday! But anyway, does anyone know if you can cut the sg shaft to work in a xxxnt? I race dirt oval and these sedan high horse motors are the bomb for that, it's just hard to come by one that has a threaded shaft, and if you do it's always got the rotary carb, but the slide is better for oval.

The threading on the SG shaft will not work with the Losi clutch nut so don't cut the shaft. You may be able to modify another clutch that fits on the SG to work in the XXX-NT.

The original manual says to place the washers like this <<<<<<>>>>>> but there was a slip of paper packed in the bag that over rode the manual and said they should be like this |:|>>>>>>>>>>>>. I built my diff like the latter and it's held up great for the last four months of racing every weekend and it still feels smooth. (P.S. I don't have the DE version, just the original one).

[grimlock3000]

i stripped part of the front bulkhead that holds one screw for the shock tower in place. the screw is snugly in place but just keeps turning with a moderate ammount of effort. should i put a little bit of (blue) thread lock in the hole and reseat the screw? does blue threadlock really eat through plastic? i am using the team associated locking compound if that makes a difference.

[winning edge designs]

rccarman,....#2. This is how I run them and I only rebiuld my diffs when changing out very worn outdrives. So far i'm averaging about two rebiulds per season, maybe 5 gallons for the season overall, so 2-3 gallons per diff.


nitroinmyviens, my pivot block from big T was off as well. But luckily it wore out pretty quick and my new one is better......did I say luckily a $30 part wore out quickly?...ouch! I wish Racers Edge would make one?


grimlock3000, be careful, the TeamLosi truck will reject any Team Associated parts or materials, LOL, j/k......I would use some CA in a pinch, But replace the parts when you can, since it is weaker then a well tightened part and the CA will only hold so much force. You may also be able to sneak a slightly longer bolt in if theres room?............................Jim

[Got Speed]

grimlock3000- Do not use thread lock on plastic it makes it brittle. Do what WED said.

How many people have actually broken a pivot block? I am still running the graphite one and haven't broken it yet.

[cave]

Got speed
Wuz up, I broke the stock plastic rear pivot block. In less than 20 mins. out of the box. E-mailed Losi the got one in the mail. Got the trinity aluminum one now. Come to think of it my truck takes of to the right also? HuH. Maybe the same run as nitroinmyveins .
cave

[pooldoc101]

WED- is there a way to use a sg shaft engine on a xxxt? If anyone would know it would be you. Any help you could give me would be appreciated- Pooldoc101

[grimlock3000]

gs + wed, i put a small drop of ca on the screw and then put the screw back in the hole. if it holds for a while, great, if not, i will have a spare ready...

i am going to be ordering spares soon since i do not have easy access to a local shop and i do not want to be down for a week when i break something. so far, i will be ordering these replacement parts:

graphite front bulkhead
graphite rear pivot block
graphite front arms
ti ball studs

am i missing anything that is likely to break? i figure i might as well upgrade parts as i break them. should i buy the trinity rear pivot block now and be done with it or just stick with the losi ones since they are so cheap?

i really wish all the snow would melt so i could get my truck in some dirt! it is sitting on my bench half built teasing me :D

[winning edge designs]

Pooldoc, the only way you might be able to use an SG shaft engine is with some tinkering. Try looking into some serpent, or similar parts, for a single speed on-road car. You'll need the flywheel (keep the diamter similar to the XXX-NT part), clutch shoes, springs, but, clutch bell, bearings, spacers and shims as needed 17-20 tooth and 32 pitch....I'm sure it could work, but may take some serious hunting and a bit of cash.........Jim

[dgrobe2112]

Ok, back to the diff...

I took my diff apart last night for the first time.. i had the hardest time getting it back together.. i got an RRP aluminum gear in there.. now.. my problem is.. i went and downloaded the book on the Losi website.. and it shows a spring in where the nut goes.. all i have is the 12 ( washers yall are talkin about.. are those supposed to replace the spring?? and you all say that it should be [-](((((((((((( right?? i had it like that.. and it seemed like my screw would never reach the nut to tighten..i would sit there and turn and turn and turn.. but the diff never tightened..

Also.. i did what the email stated.. and held the right tire, and spur.. and had my slipper turned out 5 turns.. the slipper never slipped, i had to turn it out 2 more turns before the slipper would slip... so i have my slipper out about 7 turns now.. the book says it should be at about 3 for starters..

Please help..

[tpirocz]

This may have been covered but there are way too many pages to look at so ill just ask.

Are there any aluminum parts for the XXXNT? Im looking for shock towers, the upper chassis peice, whatever... I have had no real luck in finding any "aftermarket" parts for the truck. I have seen a few graphite things, but thats it. thanks

[mx416]

tpirocz - trinity makes aluminum parts for the XXXNT. There is another company that makes an upper chassis plate but I don't remember the name.

[mx416]

Does anyone know what size hex wrenches you need to take apart a Trinity/Picco engine? My RPM wrenches are finally wearing out after four years so I'm going to get Integy wrenches. I know the sizes for the truck itself, but not the engine

[Got Speed]

grimlock3000- If you can't get them easily there I would just go ahead and order a trinity block. Im going to get one whenever my graphite breaks.

dgrobe2112- You can't really go by a certain number of turns on the slipper nut because people thread the top shaft differently. I had the same problem with the diff for quite a while untill I pushed against the nut(not the whole peice) while turning the bolt. It goes in easliy that way usually. Just make sure you don't damage the nylon insert in the lock nut while doing that. The 12 washers replace the spring. How you have them is right.

tpirocz- Someone made alum. arms a few pages back(sorry I don't remember who it was). Trinity makes pivot blocks, radio switch tray, servo mounts, and axel carriers. Someone else makes an aluminum upper deck but I don't remember who they are either.

[OutKast]

Does any one know if the Ofna 6.0 V 5 Cell Hump Receiver Battery Pack (1000mah) will fit without diffuculties? It measures 2" Long, 1.11" Wide, and 1.25" Tall. I just want to get one that fits without a gap? thanks

[pooldoc101]

That pack shown doesnt fit, look at the trinity website and it shows the proper cell alignment to fit. Orion makes one also. Native racing makes a aluminum top plate for your truck, its real cool cause it makes it a lot easier to work on steering servo and fuel tank. They say they're doing one in carbon fiber soon.

[kvn xxx-nt]

My rx pack looks like that. It fits. Just put a little piece of foam on each side to center it and keep from moving around.

[losixxxnt]

I have a trinity pack that is configured the same way and it fits just fine.As always you should put some foam around it to keep it from moving around.

[rccarman5]

wat is this [-]((((((((((((

^?????

wat is this [-]????? the outdrive?, nut?

[winning edge designs]

tpirocz, the company that makes some other cool things for the XXX-Nt is Native racing, they are available at better retailers everywhere.............Or, just call Superior Hobbies at 4078349299, they have an add in Nitro Car action and do some, mailorder....Did I mention they have a HUGE inventory, 5 times what most shops carry!

I use a pack that is 2 on top of 3, but most use a 1 on top of 4 pack, either will work..............Jim

[tarvymoto]

Jim , what tires for Boggy Creek this weekend?

[offroadcrazy01]

Just got a cool deal on a stock xxx-nt what up grade parts do you guys think i need to get

[Nitroooo]

Hey guys, I read a while back where someone posted where to look to see the specs of different motors. Don't really remember, but it seemed like a test in a magazine or something. Does anybody remember right off the top of their head?

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

not sure if you mean nitroreview.com, gotta sleep cya

[losifreak2004]

Nitroooo - I'm not sure...but numbers don't always make the difference. Between all of us that read this forum, I'm sure there is a much deeper bank of information on just about any engine you could ask about, from the view of someone who has actually used that engine (granted...some of us might be a little biased ;) )

offroad crazy - Lunsford turnbuckles...after that, replace the pivot blocks with Trinity aluminum ones (the front one is useful for the added weight). The front one is TK5009 and the rear is TK5606 (I'm pretty sure...check with your LHS before you order it). Other than that...replace plastic parts with graphite as you break them.

Aaron Waldron

[cave]

Nitroooo

Try this link
click here (http://www.nitroreview.com/compare/homeengines.cfm) If this doesnt work go to page 211 its listed there
cave

[Crashbot2001]

Offroad Crazy, I agree with Aaron on most parts, the turnbuckles and pivot blocks are a good suggestion With the pivot blocks, make sure you use set screws to lock the hinge pins down so the blocks don't oval out.

As for the graphite, I would only recommend it for the tank box and towers. On the arms, the graphite develops slop way too quickly for my likes. Unless you don;t mind replacing the arms every few races, stick with the plastic. They last three times as long before they get too sloppy, in my experience. Enjoy!

[dgrobe2112]

Ok, i have succesfull stripped the nut or screw in my diff, now how am i supposed to get that thing out?? any help..

[langywangy]

Hi in order to get to the diff bolt and nut i usually find it easiest to detatch the whole gear box fom the back of the car leaving the wishbones suspension etc hanging there. you can then carefully unscrew the diff bolt and take out without having to completely disassemble the whole diff this also makes it easy to feel the movement of the diff one the problem is sorted. i find it useful to set up the diff roughly with it out of the car.
careful when taking the bolt etc out as the bolls are easily lost, take it from someone who knows lol,

dont worry about this problem it seems to have happened to us all!


hope this helps


aaron

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks for the help arron, but i am one step ahead of you.. i had the whol tranny pulled apart.. and i had the diff in my hand.. I was trying to get the screw to back out, and it wouldnt.. so i cant seem to get the nut or screw to back out.. How do i do it from here all i have is the diff in my hands..

[langywangy]

mmmmm sounds a bit strange, is the nut turning when you try and unscrew the bolt? if so i would suggest trying to grip it with some plyers but you might have to replace the cup thingy (whatever its called) im not sure exactly wats going on. so you have the actual diff out and its not unscrewing with a screwdriver and something gripping the other carrier?

bet you getting to the stage im at, this diff is very difficult to get right, my whole truck is a tray of parts currently as i await money for parts lol.

Aaron

[dgrobe2112]

Arron, your right.. i got parts stung out everywhere.. Think as if you were just putting the diff together and you were tightening down the diff screw, and the nut on the other half of the diff, you see it going down.. and then you tighten it one more turn, and then you feel it get looser.. i think either i stripped the nut, so the diff screw is just turning inside the nut.. or i stripped the screw and it is just spinning in the nut.. I can tgrip it with any pliers, cuz the nut is inside the outdrive..

[langywangy]

Yes it sounds like the bolt to me but either way it comes as a set anyway. i would suggest buying a few of the nuts from a local supplier. if yu look back through the forum there is information on this and its much easier to carry spares. whilst the forum is busy have you modified the tank as i suggested earlier i was under 'ryanbakewell' sign in name (that my best mate) i you find that your pipe spits fuel from the pressure pipe then i suggest doing those mods as it saves a lot of hassle and money buying new tanks etc.

hope this all helps

Aaron

and hey make sure its AAron not ARRon lol