TTR EB4 Forum

[eternaldragon]

thanks slingitx for the info.
this thread seems kind of dead now.
these buggy's are incredibly fast though i have it set up with an ofna picco 01-bp comp engine with 14t cb thinking of going with a 15t or 16t cb to much torque with the 14t cb and i run it on 30% coolpower total synthetic fuel.
i was thinking about upgrading to the s2 conversion but keeping the s1 chassis its the ergal one i have plus i like the longer wheel base.
any way is there and diff in the handling with the s2 conversion?

[SlingItX]

eternaldragon-

As you are all ready aware (or will soon find out) S2 retrofit kits are no longer available as package units. You'll have to buy each individual piece. The entire collection should run somewhere around $120.

As for keeping the S1 chassis - well... you can't. The S2 bulkheads won't work with it (smaller footprint if I'm not mistaken). And I'm not 100% sure if the old or new drive shafts would work (due to improper length). Hey, if you get it to work - great! It'll save you a chunk of change on the chassis upgrade.

I really didn't notice too much of a difference between my S1 and S2 other than the S2 seemed more controlled in turns with similar geometry setup and without changing shock or diff oils. It's always been very stable in the air, so that was never a problem.

I agree on the CB. I upgraded to a 15t on one of mine and like it better in certain situations.

-SlingItX

[eternaldragon]

i found a site where some guy did the s2 conversion but he kept the s1 chassis that's what gave me the idea i cant remember the site name though.
yea i new the s2 conversion was discontinued i was going to get the parts off ebay but i may stay with the s1 set up and just get the last of the carbon fiber and ergal parts and maybe even the aluminum a-arms.

[SlingItX]

ed-

Not to sound like a weiner, but I'd shy away from the aluminum arms (lower). Once they're damaged that's it for them. And $120 in my book it's just not worth it, considering you can buy a whole lot of plastic arms for that price. I've just never seen the benefit of running them. I think it's more a bling-bling thing with those.

Now if you are talking about alum upper arms - great! But keep in mind they will cause more stress on adjacent parts. Consider upgrading your upper hinge pin to carbide or titanium. From the sounds of it you all ready have all the other upgrades.

Let's see some pics!

-SlingItX

[eternaldragon]

and i only paid 220.00 for the buggy as it is now with the ofna picco 01-bp engine and 20.00 for the rex 086 one-peace pipe on ebay. i think ill go with the titanium hinge pins and turnbuckles my stock steel ones are starting to rust lol. but im still amazed at how strong this thing is it was hit be a real car and it only broke the gas tank and bent the servo saver top plate the stock one. yea that's the only resin im not really concerned about the aluminum a-arms plus the fact that they can squeak when they rob on the hinge pins.
ill have some pic's when i get the parts for it its in a box pulled apart right now for cleaning. :D im thinking of going with one of these clutch's from werk's http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20_106&products_id=6030&osCsid=5244757940741e09a86346dbffb45c3a

[eternaldragon]

i have every ergal part but the servo saver top plate engine mounts center diff mount and battery post and i still need the carbon servo tray and battery mount the little thing on the top of the battery don't know what you want to call it. im looking at like 180 for the last of the ergal and carbon parts.
and i have hitec ultra torque servos for the steering and just a standard one for the throttle right now the steering servo puts out like 133oz of torque at 6v and it moves pretty quick to with red aluminum servo horns.

[papabear12]

Just wanted to let you guys know that ehobbies has a NIB EB4 S2 Pro kit on ebay with a buy it know price of $289, auction number 5905986225. Auction ends 6-30-04. They had 2 but I bought 1 ;)

[eternaldragon]

thanks papabear12 but i have a new 1/8 truck on pre-order now so know more $$$ for a new buggy right now :( .

[eb4flys]

hey guys just thought i would post a pic of mine and buddys eb4s that we race at our local track, why team crash? well thats what we are good at crashing...

[eb4flys]

sorry about that file is too large, ill have to get a smaller car..lol, i will sort it and re-post pic later

[eb4flys]

third time lucky with the pic.......

[papabear12]

Here's a link to pics of the new EB4 S3:
http://www.sabattinicars.com/anteprima-EB4S3.php

[eb4flys]

I Want One.....now!!

[eternaldragon]

i like how it has the engine mounting plates like a kyosho no more trying to get the engine lined up when you take it off plus all the graphite the chassis setup looks cool to.

[Richie-EB4]

Hi there all
This is my first post and my first of many questions....
Does anyone know if there is a mod for the steering for the EB4 S1 LE as this buggy has only had 20 tanks through it and the steering has more play and slop in it than a pig pit.Im looking for info on the TT Race Team if there is any web sites or links would be good.......

Many Thanks
Richie

[eb4flys]

hi richie,
the only way you can get the info you need for the TT race team is to email amerang direct, they will answer any questions you have within two days, i managed to get info on engines (omega) and all the other stuff to upgrade my buggy to race spec. click here and go to the contact us section (http://www.amerang-group.com)
good luck
michael

[Richie-EB4]

Thanks michael
You not been on msn lately,Ive contacted Amerang and will let you know how i get on.
Cheers
Richie

[KyoshoKev]

hey guys.... i was wondering if these stock tires are any good?

does the side walls hold up? :cool:

http://i4.ebayimg.com/01/i/02/15/a7/1c_1_b.JPG

[Richie-EB4]

Those tyres are OK for bashing but are too soft for racing IMO
Very good grip on grass and dust....

[eb4flys]

Thanks michael
You not been on msn lately,Ive contacted Amerang and will let you know how i get on.
Cheers
Richie
hi richie
thought it might be you, been a bit busy at work at the mo but saved enough time to race sunday and get my first ever placing at the track managed to get a second place in the final, so im happy as larry, that new engine made a massive difference, along with new bearings and cv's all round. :cool: talk to you soon
michael

[Richie-EB4]

It looks like this thread doesnt get much use anymore but i would like to know if.....
anyone else has the same problem with this buggys steering....
If i hold the left front wheel and try to move the right front wheel(side to side) it will move buy about 10mm both ways.....is this a problem with its design or is it just mine..
Any help would be great.

[eternaldragon]

my steering assembly stays pretty solid but i have the eb-4 LE it has all the ergal parts except the center differential mount,servo saver top plate,engine mounts and the battery post so maybe that's why it has less play in the steering im not really sure.

i just calculated my buggys speed at 44mph

[Richie-EB4]

My buggy is the LE S1 which is all ergal including the centre diff etc but there is a lot of play in the steering.....looks like its just mine
Ill have to dig a bit deeper and investigate......
Thanks

[eternaldragon]

can you see if anything besides the wheel has play in it?

you have the same buggy i do just without the last of the ergal parts but ill be ordering the ergal servo saver top plate the stock one got run over by a real car and bent it.

[eternaldragon]

what 15t 16t cb fits this thing i have one but it doesn't mesh with the steel spur gear right.

[Richie-EB4]

Hi Eternaldragon
I use K factory cb's on mine as there vented and work well with the alloy shoes......
As for my steering i think after a closer look the play is in all the steering joints from the servo arm to the hub.....I think its just a bad set-up as usual from Thunder Tiger

[eternaldragon]

thanks Richie-EB4 i'll look in to the k-factory cb's and i was also thinking about getting this clutch from sport werks http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20_106&products_id=6030 i just wish it was a bettor color then purple.

[Richie-EB4]

Looks very good and adjustable but yeah the colour.......but you can remove the anodising but i dont think that a four shoe clutch set up is better than a three.

[Richie-EB4]

Eternaldragon
If you go for that clutch/flywheel set up try this site as its a lot cheaper
http://www.hobbieguyrc.com/catalog/werks_racing_4_shoe_power_clutch_w_teflon_shoes_33 28013.htm :)
Hope that helps you

[eternaldragon]

that's why i like the clutch be cause it's adjustable i just go to www.ace-hobbies.com to look for some new things i use www.google.com to find the best deals.
i was reading rcdriver they say to use oven cleaner to remove the anodizing and mothers polish to polish it up but the only thing about the oven cleaner is it can pit and turn the aluminum black i was thinking of removing the red anodizing on some of my ergal parts on the buggy saying the anodizing is starting to wear off the parts so may be striping the anodizing off the parts my bring new life to them.

[Richie-EB4]

Yeah i heard that oven cleaner works but i think you should try an old or broken bit first......that way you should get a good feel for how long to leave it on.
Good Luck

[eternaldragon]

i was thinking the same thing i just cant think of anything that i don't use to try it on i'll have to go there my part box and see what i can find lol.

[papabear12]

Concentrated Simple Green will remove anodizing and its not as harsh as oven cleaner

[eternaldragon]

thanks i'll give that a try.

[Richie-EB4]

Any one know where in the UK this product can be found or what its equivalent is ???Concentrated Simple Green......not know in the UK
Cheers

[eternaldragon]

i have know idea what Concentrated Simple Green is but i know what Simple Green is :D im looking for the stuff using www.google.com i'll let you know if i fined anything in the uk.

[Richie-EB4]

Eternaldragon.......If you use MSN look me up and we can have a chat.....Richie_EB4@hotmail.com

[papabear12]

Simple Green is a cleaner/solvent available at most hardware and home improvement stores, like Lowes and Home Depot. I've seen it sold in two strenths: a standard strength (diluted) and industrial strength (un-diluted). The standard strength stuff is good for general purpose cleaning, but the un-diluted stuff will strip off anodizing if you leave the part sitting in it long enough. You can also remove anodizing with a brass wire wheel or a cotton buffing wheel and a mild abrasive buffing compound and a rotory tool.

[eb4flys]

morning guys, seems to be dying off in here a bit, shame to let it go as there is lots of helpful posts and i dont think the EB4 is ready for the scrap heap just yet, still seems to be very good against the kysho;s and hyper here in england (richie will agree to that) what level do you guys in the US race yours at? and do you find any major problems with it, i know your tracks are a t more severe over there but we are now catching up, check out my local track, in the gallery section, the newest pics show our raised pit lane, very proud of our club our local track (http://www.3araceway.com)

[eternaldragon]

i don't really race my buggy mostly just jump and race (drive :D ) around the park. i don't really have any problems with it just the hubs have a little play in them front and rear. over all i think it's a nice buggy.

[eb4flys]

the play is a problem had it too, but resolved it with new bearings, carbide hinge pins and good old fashioned shims, now rock steady again, where abouts are you dragon?

[eternaldragon]

us florida

[NitroRookie]

What are guys thoughts on the EB-4 S2 Super Combo ?

Because I'm thinking of getting one.

[Richie-EB4]

Hi there Nitro Rookie
Im not to sure what the differences are in the super combo but IMO any EB4 is a good buggy to get and i like the Kits better than the RTR's just my opinion tho as you spend more time making sure that its put together right and you might as well of built it from a kits.....
Good luck with whatever you go for but keep us informed.

[eb4flys]

have to go with richie on that one, whatever EB4 you get it will look after you, they are a very strong car and spares are not expensive, i think the super combo is the same as yours richie but US spec, but dont quote me on that.
michael

[board paul]

a eb4 and a savage 25 which should both be here tomorrow.
the eb4 is the super combo? is this good then? what do i need to know about this are there any major donts and dos.

cheers
P

[board paul]

hell it looks the part seems very strong and well made. cant wait to finish running it in so i can thrap it.
only problem so far is it seems to ride low and suspension seems to take while to return to normal.
is this right?
cheers
P

[board paul]

anyone using this car besides me now?
help please
cheers
P

[powermax]

Hi all, I'm not too happy with the top end performance with this car.
It accelerates really well up to a point, really sharp, but then seems to take a long time to build up its speed compared to other cars I've owned. Is this normal?
It runs at around 240-250 degrees celcius so the mixture must be ok??
It's running on Model Technics, molecular blend, Qwikfire 16 glo fuel.
I'm not really up on fuel, but I was told by my l.h.s that this fuel made it easier to start the engine (for beginners) and once I knew what I was doing to go to the qwikfire 10 glo fuel.
I thought you were supposed to use a higher percentage nitro mix for more performance?
Any suggestions as to what fuel I should use for better performance without breaking the bank and bearing in mind I know exactly what I'm doing as I can start the engine first pull almost every time.
Cheers in advance guys. ;)

[powermax]

Forgot to ask in my previous post, what suspension set up should I use for rough, bumby surfaces. At present I am running the standard blue springs but it ends up bouncing and summersaulting at even fairly low speeds over rough ground!
Would it be ok just to swap over to the yellow springs?
Thanks in advance ;)

[eb4flys]

Hi guys, so has everyone sorted there EB's out, and who is getting the S3 when it comes out very soon, i dont get on here very often but if you have any questions or comments just let me know on my site and i will do what i can, if i cant then i know a man who can, dont forget to sign the guest book when you visit.................... TEAM CRASH HOME PAGE (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/)

[powermax]

I meant Farenheight! lol

[dynamite25]

The TT pro 21 engine can run at 300 Farenheight without any problems as thats what i have mine running at but i am changing from 10% nitro to 16% nitro so it should come down abit but engine can run at that temp but mine is in a TT rallygame but i am changing into a buggy for abit.

[Chevy-SS]

I keep breaking EB4 S3 front steering knuckles. Is there a stronger knuckle available (from ANY manufacturer)???????


- thanks

[LD3Furious]

Where are they breaking? This seems odd to me...I beat the snot outta mine and never had a problem. The only thing I ever broke were the rear toe mount ( twice ) and the stock steering bellcrank. Are you sure nothing is binding in the suspension or steering? How about how tight are the pillow balls? Servo endpoints? Im just throwing a few ideas out...I don't believe there are any option pieces available. You might try the TTR lightened/hardened pillow balls. Though I don't suspect they would help with binding issues, they would help steering to be a little smoother.

[Chevy-SS]

They are snapping off at the ball-end mount area................

-

[Jamie]

Chevy's got them mounted on his Monster GT. The ones on the rear are breaking and he knows why. He is trying to find out if any companys make stronger ones for the EB4 S3.

[Chevy-SS]

Chevy's got them mounted on his Monster GT. The ones on the rear are breaking and he knows why. He is trying to find out if any companys make stronger ones for the EB4 S3.

heheh, yeah, I wasn't gonna get into this part of it. These knuckles work GREAT on the front of the MGT, the servo saver keeps them from breaking. But the EB4 knuckles are prone to snapping when used in the rear of the MGT. I would certainly just go back to standard or RPM knuckles, but then I lose the 8mm stub axle mount.

If anyone's interested, here's a web page I made showing the mod:
http://csgbenefits.org/mgt/beef_knuckles.htm

I may try boiling them in water. Meanwhile, I mounted some servo savers in the rear and will give that a try to see if it saves the TTR knuckles from breaking. See pic below:
http://csgbenefits.org/rearflex.jpg


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