HPI Micro RS-4 Forum v1.0

[blurredvision]

Jason C-thanks,
I am told the Jet wheels will work fine with the ball diffs, I have not tried this out. I mainly bought the rims just for looks. I use stock rims for racing.

Jay

[Jason C]

Oh, okay.

Just a suggestion for your next paint job: try blending the flames into the other color for a "fade-in fade-out" effect. I think that would look even cooler.
Or you could just try fading in the greenish flames at the front of the car and leave a solid color boundary like in your pics at the rear.

What airbrush did you use? Did you use a compressor?

[blurredvision]

Thanks for the suggestions.
The airbrush I used is the Badger 175 Crescendo and the compressor is a CYCLONE I MODEL 180-1.

Jay

[HYDRAMATIC99]

Nice paint.

As for servos i use a hobbico cs-12 cheap, light and small

[Usagi]

Originally posted by Usagi
I have a Q? servos which is the smallest use?
Thank you :)
one moe time please :)

[blurredvision]

Chech out this page, some info on servos- http://yourmicro.nexcess.net/bg_servos.html

Jay

[Usagi]

Thank you awhole lot:)

[blurredvision]

No probs ;)

Jay

[RS4rally1124]

so anyone converted to rally yet. My buddy has one that is rally and he races my cousins mini z rally the rs4 is sweat and it can actually handle jumps but the mod motor is to fast for off road it is everywhere.........maybe.:rolleyes: if it was dirt oval ...that would be sweat, mini cars flying full spead with the corect weight distribution around an oval track. just an idea don't kill me for it


JT

[Tiggs1]

So has anybody tried any after-market front diffs yet? I am not talking about the one-ways, just a standard front diff. My diff was fine for a while, but now it's super notchy....just looking for alternatives.

I should also ask: Has anyone tried the HPI rear ball diff and if so, what do you think?

[Usagi]

how small of servos are you putting in the micro?

[Tiggs1]

I am not sure if you are asking me Usagi, but if you are, I am using the Hitec 81MG micro servo.

[Usagi]

thsnk you tigg, for repling:) i meant look into that one out here. thank you.........

[XXXER]

Hey guys, come on! Where did you all take off to? My micro just keeps getting cooler, and cooler... This is my list of upgrades so far:

Hardcore Titanium chassis parts, Upper, Lower, and Rear Upper deck, all Ano'd purple
Team Orion 6 cell battery
Drivetrain includes: Steel pinions, front one-way, steel universals(all HPI parts) and Chrome wheels at a touch of flash
HPI Modified motor, and Team Orion Elite Modified motor


That is all I can really think of right now, I have a pretty good amount of the Team O aluminum parts on order, so I will be getting some as soon as it is available, I also have three bodie for it, 2 skylines, and 1 corvette. I really like the handling of the Skyline more than the vette, it fits me better. Oh, and one of the skylines is painted with the chrome Alclad II laquer, it is sweeeeeeeeeeet. For my Electronics, just a standard servo, and receiver, and I use the LRP Quantum Sport, it does great, my car launches like crazy, and has, what I think, is probably a 25MPH top speed, on a full charge.

Post away guys!

[blurredvision]

XXXER-
Sounds wicked nice set up...do you have any pics?

I also like my BMW more than the Vette. I just picked up a Skyline, just need to think of a paint scheme then I'll give it a go...

Here is a pic of my IPD Racing chassis
http://galeforce.tripod.ca/images/micro12.jpg

Jay

[chevy350smlblok]

blurredvision- that is one sweet car!!!!! and so neat!

everybody, I have a question, I am charger a 7.2 volt NiMhTeam Orion 6 cell battery pack with 1100mah. I am charging it at a 1 amp rate. I have a peak charger but dont trust it due to false peaking. How long should it take approximently, too reach a peak charge?

[JimmyMac]

Simple, uhh 1.1 hours at 1 amp!

[JimmyMac]

Hey USAGI!! You are needed at the Yourmicro.com forums for a question. The question is about parts in Japan and also the setup's for the cars there. We have been somewhat debating that Asia gets parts faster than America (gotta include Canda hehe.) Although some say no, we get them faster. Anyways, maybe you could clear some of this up. Also, what a hot setup in Japan and do they use Pan chassis?? I don't I prefer thin chassis like the IPD above. Arigato!

Jimmy Mac

[JimmyMac]

Back to the charging question. When the battery is nice and warm, it's done charging. 1.1 hour would be for a fully dumped battery. So you shouldn't really go by that. But it's an approximate time for a dumped batt. Like I said, if it's warm/hot, it's charged! :D

[Usagi]

hum ok.i be there...........

[blurredvision]

chevy350smlblok- Thanks ;)

KilRuf-I don't I prefer thin chassis like the IPD above

That's too bad, it's a great chassis. Light in weight, very strong yet flexible where it needs to be. The guys at Micro RS4 Racer.com (http://www.micrors4racer.com) are using this chassis with a speed 300 and no problems. But if you still think its too thin, they came out with another chassis set that has a 2.5mm thick top chassis. I will be getting one of these next week and will let you know the results...

Jay

[JimmyMac]

Sorry, Blurr, I forgot to finish my line.. "I don't like Pan Chassis. I prefer thin ones." That's what it was suppose to say. :D Anyways, let me know how your setup turns out... here is my current one... I know, I've post it all over, but incase if you haven't seen it.. hehe...

Jimmy Mac

[blurredvision]

KilRuf-
Sorry for the confusion :o


Jay

[HYDRAMATIC99]

Tiggs: about the hpi ball diff. It is great! very smooth. I noticed a big improvement. It is just so much smoother to drive. I would reccomend it.

[Tiggs1]

Thanks Hydra!

[Jason C]

Tiggs,

I have the same problem with my front diff - it's very notchy and hardly gives any differential action anymore. I decided to just run my Micro RWD (makes my BMW more realistic since the full scale ones are rear drive.) It still runs pretty well, but one has to exercise more control on the throttle otherwise it's all too easy to spin out.

Have you been to Twin Cities Hobby and Raceway yet?


Blurredvision,

Very Nice!! If I only had more pocket money...
Do you just tape the batteries to the lower deck? How much does the IPD chassis flex both vertically and torsionally? I cut my stock chassis a lot so that the rear pod is still attached by a 6mm wide strip. It allows a lot of flex vertically and torsionally and I control it with a VCS Micro Shock on a modified HardCore Ti rear upper deck. It handles pretty well, but I'd like to get your opinion on your chassis.

Thanks.

[Tiggs1]

Haven't been there yet Jason. We are currently racing at a friends house. He cleared out his basement and we made a nice little track. It really is a blast. I'll have to check out TCHR one of these days. I bet they don't let you drink while you race! :D This last weekend we were racing while watching the Daytona 500....if you thought there were a lot of accidents in Daytona, you should have seen the pileups we had in my buddies basement :eek:

I am seriously considering a GH Front ball diff. It's only $20 and people seem to like them. While I'm at it, I am also going to get the HPI rear diff. I can't stand not to have a totally smooth drivetrain! Besides for the above updates, and a Orion 7.2V battery, our Micros are totally stock.

[Jason C]

Yeah, I'm considering getting the GH front diff too. Are you planning to get any alloy wheels? I know HardCore's wheels are designed to work with HPI's rear ball diff. I don't mind using the stock wheels, but my Micro has lost a wheel on several occasions at the track. I'm thinking of either gluing the wheels to the inner hub and then cutting a hole on the wheel so I have access to the mounting screw or getting alloy ones. I had a set of GH wheels and adapters, but they only work with the gear diff so they are reduced to display duty only.

No, I don't think TCHR allows drinking while driving. I suppose racing RC is the only time you can drive a car and have a beer. :D

[blurredvision]

Jason C

Yes I tape the battery pack to the bottom chassis, I use high quality 3M double sided tape and have had no problems with it coming loose, keep in mind that I have my top chassis lowered to the point where it sits on top of the battery pack :) .

The chassis has awesome flex side to side at the rear part of the car, handles great! Chassis flex front to back is minimal but good. Flex straight up and down is also good no bottoming out, easily adjustable with the VCS.

I'll let you in on a little secret, I just received a new chassis from IPD Racing...I will post pics here , and add it to my site (http://galeforce.tripod.ca) some time tomorrow.

I also got my hands on another cool part...

Jay

[blurredvision]

Well guys , the new IPD 2.5mm top chassis is awesome. It reduces front to back chassis flex, the car doesn't bow in the centre and the best part is that it is more than stiff enough to mount a steering servo off of.

Here are the pics...

http://galeforce.tripod.ca/images/micro18.jpg

http://galeforce.tripod.ca/images/micro19.jpg

Here is the other little thing from GH...

http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/Micro/Dcp_1259.jpg

http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/Micro/Dcp_1273.jpg

Now I can adjust toe :)

Jay

[Usagi]

what the.................Is that.......never mind.

[Jason C]

Thanks, Blurredvision!

I checked out www.micrors4racer.com and I saw there were 2 versions of the IPD chassis: MCFR-001 and MCFR-002. The only difference I can see is one has a split in the part that connects the rear pod and the other doesn't. Is that the only difference?

That adjustable steering link looks cool.

Do you use a rear ball diff? Can you fit a thrust bearing in the JET rear wheels?

[blurredvision]

Usagi - ?


Jason C - They actually have three chassis sets for sale the MCFR-005 (http://www.instantestore.net/merchant650/products.cfm?CFID=51899&CFTOKEN=87188569&PID=70) is the split bottom chassis and 2.5mm top chassis. You are right about the MCFR-001 and MCFR-002 that is the only difference.

I don't have a rear ball diff yet...I'm not sure what one I want.
For the thrust bearing...I use the one that Micro RS4 Racer sells (bearing) (http://www.instantestore.net/merchant650/products.cfm?CFID=51899&CFTOKEN=87188569&PID=25)

Jay

[Jason C]

Okay. If this helps you decide, I have the HPI ball diff (rear) and it is very smooth. HPI even includes extra balls for a rebuild when you need to. Glad to hear a bearing fits in the wheel, I use Losi's thrust bearing (#3098) with my diff.
One more question about the JET wheels: can you adjust the width, or is it designed to fit the BMW body width? I'm seriously considering getting the wheels, so I want to make sure it works with HPI's ball diff and can fit my body.

Thanks.

[blurredvision]

The Jet wheels fit the BMW. I use mine for looks only.

Thanks for the HPI ball diff info.

Jay

[blurredvision]

Is anyone running the HPI Mod motor?

I have broken tab syndrome on my Team Orion Elite Mod motor :( . I have NOT had very good luck with the stuff I buy from Tem Orion. So I want to know your experiences with the HPI Mod motor.

Thanks
Jay

[Raydee]

I run one! No problems so far! It has been run a lot too. I have been racing it for 4 weeks now with 2 seven minute heats and a ten minute main each week not to mention all the practice runs.

[blurredvision]

Raydee - how many cells are you running?

Jay

[Jason C]

I also have HPI's mod motor. I have been running it since October with no problems at all. At the track, I run a 6 cell pack made from Energizer AAAs for about 20-25 minutes at almost continuous full throttle. It gets warm, but not hot.
I have heard of Kyosho's motor being a bit faster than HPI's. Here's the link- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXW912&P=7

[Raydee]

I am running an Orion 6 cell pack on my HPI mod!

[XXXER]

blurred, dood, talk about coincedence! Mine tab gave out on me yesterday, I wish this was one of thsoe things that you could just fix yourself, but apparently not :^/ I had the HPI mod before I got the Elite, and it runs pretty good, I would say, get a 10 tooth if you are at high speed most of the time, if the track is pretty twisty, on/off the throttle a lot, I would go with the 9 tooth.

Looks like mine will take a trip back onto my motor plate. I will see you later guys.

-Steve

[Raydee]

Its funny I was on the Orion board and asked about the motor problem and was told that there is no motor problem! Just like there was no ESC problem until they finally came clean. I was later emailed and asked not to post remarks of that nature on their message board. What nature was that , the truth?? I no longer post on that board and will never buy that motor!!

[poopie]

did anyone have any problems with the HPI mod motor tabs breaking off? both of mine did and snapped the capactors as well. i did not crash, all did was hook it up and the wire got caught and pulled the wire just a little bit and the tabs broke off. is this something i should talk to HPI about? its a great little motor though for its price.

[Raydee]

That's the first time I have heard of that on the HPI mod!

[blurredvision]

Team Orion doen's like bad press...did I mention that I'm still waiting for my Flash. Besides that, the HPI mod motor is $30(cdn) cheaper than the Team Orion Elite mod...I was hoping that a $70(cdn) motor would have lasted longer. Did I mention that you can strip the screw holes in the Elite mod's can very easily.

Thanks for the tips guys, I will be buying an HPI Mod motor next week...sucks when your LHS is a 90 minute drive away.


Raydee - is your pack 7.2v?

Jay

[Raydee]

Jay, yes my pack is 7.2volt!

[poopie]

i'm gonna e-mail HPI and see what they say about the tabs. i just got new capicitors and i soldered on the wire leads back on. the motor rocks!! with a 13 tooth pinion it still has great low end punch on a team orion 7.2 volt batt pack.

[Usagi]

would even trust those chassy sets by orion?!?!?!?!?! OMG I don`t trust and thing orion makes anymore. After a few made products I will buy theis products. As for the speed control.oh we will never se it here. The promised it would be here in jan. But around nov before the recall orion has just given up in Japan. Well another hpi sub contracter comapny but the big one. LRP are you next?!

[Racerze]

Nani doshi deska ? Usagi doshi-desu

[Usagi]

jj

[Usagi]

I am 38 years old, so I am a rabbit year born person. You?

[RS4rally1124]

so noone has answered my question anyone converting to rally or making the micro special for drag or maybe oval?


JT

[Tiggs1]

RS4Rally,

I hang out at a lot of different micro websites, and I haven't seen much on different conversions.....HOWEVER, on yourmicro.com, some dude did do a rally conversion on thier micro. The funniest part was that he used lego wheels. I see if I can find some links.

[Tiggs1]

Here's the link to that Micro RS4 Rally conversion:

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=16795&highlight=Rally

I was mistaken...it was on the HPI's website.

[chevy350smlblok]

so noone has answered my question anyone converting to rally or making the micro special for drag or maybe oval?


well actually if I wasnt selling mine I was going to convert it to 2 wheel drive and put
fingerflip trick bike wheels I saw at target on it. they were narow, I was going to put them in the front so it would look like a rail dragster. also has anyone seen the new beetle cup body
that HPI just came out with for the micro? Its ....... SWEET A$$!!!

[Usagi]

what is the smallest servo useable that could be used?

Thank you
Usagi

[Tiggs1]

No offense Usagi, but you ask that question a lot!! :confused:

I use the Hitec 81MG....it is super small and has metal gears. If there is a smaller servo, I sure don't see the benefit in using it (IMO).

[chevy350smlblok]

a picture of my micro that frankW might buy. hope this works.

[chevy350smlblok]

bottom

[Usagi]

Originally posted by Tiggs1
No offense Usagi, but you ask that question a lot!! :confused:

I use the Hitec 81MG....it is super small and has metal gears. If there is a smaller servo, I sure don't see the benefit in using it (IMO).
sure i do.i have built 2 miros and i working a third..........I just want info on oh people in the usa is doing with their micro. I see alot here in Japan the don`t do as much options as the usa nd other parts.he get metal parts by the kilo but but every where else is 1000% different then here....

[chevy350smlblok]

so????!!!! what so you think?

[Jason C]

I hope to see a Civic or RSX body soon as I'm an import tuner fan. I just bought GH's front ball diff to replace my damaged stock front diff. I like to be as realistic as possible so since I have a BMW body, my Micro is currently on RWD. I'll switch to FWD once I get an import body or a Stratus (they're FWD, right?).


Chevy,

No ESC yet?

[chevy350smlblok]

well actually I did have an ESC, but as I said I am selling it so I wanted him to see the chassis as bare as I could get it

[Racerze]

Usagi. I am the year of the rabbit also. Usagi Doshi desu.

[Usagi]

you 26< and where you from?!

[Racerze]

Actually, I'm 15. And from Oregon. I take japanese at school.

[Usagi]

cool, good luck to you.

[WheelNut]

what kinda batteries do you guys run? I have some of the Orion 1100ni-hm there awsome!!! way better than the crappy HPI 5 cell pack my bro had those and his car was really slow and had really low run time.

Also is it worth it to get a faster motor than stock? The stock motor seems really fast as is, is there any real probs with a larger motor?

[Tiggs1]

JasonC,

What do you think of the new front ball diff? I would appreciate a mini-review :D I haven't made the leap yet, but am planning on doing so.....if you review is good!

[blurredvision]

Well I'm not JasonC but I have the GH front ball diff. It's a neat piece of work. Very tight! I recommend some serious running to break it in. Some guys are using drills to break it in. I would just install it in the car, then hold on to one wheel at a time while applying some throttle. I like it better than my HPI front ball diff.

To see the insides of the GH front ball diff go here (http://www.micrors4racer.com/GH-Balldiff.htm)

Jay

[Jason C]

Here I am.

Yes, I just got GH's front ball diff too and it is an improvement over the gear diff. While the diff action is a bit smoother, it feels gritty and tight. The grittiness probably comes from the machining marks on the thrust plates. Unfortunately, the diff is a sealed unit so you can't easily take it apart for servicing, but micrors4racer.com has a link that shows you the internals of it (same as Blurredvision's link).

I also had a little problem with installation: The diff includes steel outdrives, but I found them to be a little wide (in the bone cup). Wide enough so that it applied pressure outward on my alloy steering knuckles causing it to bind up the suspension action. I remedied this by drilling out some steel in the bone cups to allow the universal bone ends to sit deeper in the outdrives. Now everything is is smooth (in the suspension department that is).

The diff action is still a little gritty so I'll try to find a way to disassemble the diff to polish the thrust plates with my Dremel and see if that smooths out the diff. GH packs a lot of axle grease in the unit and it squirts out from relief holes when you push the outdrives in. Keep a can of motor spray handy when you assemble it ;). The grease is thick so a switch to some Stealth Tranny lube may loosen up the diff.

I also heard that the thrust plates are NOT hardened and will wear faster. Since GH designed the diff as a sealed unit, you may find yourself forking over $20 more for a new diff once the plates wear out, unless you service it. Looking at the thrust plates, it may be possible to simply flip the plates over to expose some fresh steel... The diff unit is a bit heavier than the gear diff and the steel outdrives do add considerably to the weight. (you can stick the stock plastic outdrives in the ball diff for less rotating weight).

So, is it worth your $20? If you have had bad luck with your gear diff (ie: stripping gears, notchy action, etc.), then you'll get your money's worth. I took a lot of time to perfect my stock front diff when I first built my Micro and it was very smooth after it broke in (alomst rivaling that of my rear ball diff)! However, after many laps at the track with a 7.2 volt pack and an HPI mod motor, the teeth wore out. I'm certain the front ball diff will last much longer than the gear diff if put under similar stresses. If your stock diff functions to your liking, then stick with that until it goes.
All in all, I'm happy with my investment. My only gripe is the inability to open it up easily.


Likes:
- cheaper than front one-way
- smoother diff action with less play
- much stronger than stock diff


Dislikes:
- heavier than stock diff
- sealed unit doesn't allow for rebuilds
- may require some hand fitting
- grittier diff action than rear ball diff


(how's that for an RCCA style review?) :D

[Jason C]

Blurredvision,

I remember you have GH's adjustable steering rack. Does the right side threaded bar rub on the front pulley when you go to full right turn? I got the steering rack with my ball diff and it rubs on the pulley, enough so that it can act as a brake! I had to Dremel off some of the bar and shave down the pulley's inside flange.

[Jason C]

I have one more thing to add. I have found a way to make the GH wheel adapters work with the ball diff. Originally, the adapters were intended for use with the gear diff so no accomodations were made for a thrust bearing. So, I needed to install a thrust bearing in the adapter and I used HPI's thrust washers (part# A166) and 2mm balls (part# A150).

The washers are a very tight fit in the adapter, so I bored out the hole using a 1/4 inch drill bit. That allowed the washers to fit perfectly. Also, the adapter hole is not deep enough to accomodate the washers and balls and still have enough room to thread the nut on, so I drilled out some of the aluminum to just where the threads end on the axle when installed.

With the adapter hole bored wider and deeper, the thrust bearing fits and there is enough thread exposed to tighten down the nut. I used Associated's Black Grease to lube the bearing and after 50 laps around my kitchen and dining room, the diff is operating smoothly and the settings have not altered at all.

I hope this helps anyone else out there who has the GH adapters and wheels and was deeply disappointed to find they didn't work with the ball diff. If anyone has other ideas of how to make it work, please let me know. Thanks.

[Vmax911]

Here's a pic of my Micro's. Actually, the one with the checkered stripe is mine, th other is my wifes. I made it for her with the left over parts from all my hop-ups! :D

[Jason C]

Very nice, Vmax! What have you done to your car so far? Here's what I did:

- Hardcore Racing rear Ti upper deck
- Associated Micro shock
- HPI mod motor
- GH wheels and adapters
- Dynamite tires
- Alloy steering knuckles
- GH front ball diff
- steel universals
- GH alloy adjustable steering rack

I'm planning to add an HS-81MG servo and Powerline graphite upper deck later.

[blurredvision]

Jason C - My steering slider fits ok. Mind you it is a very close fit, I might have 1mm clearance.

Jay

[Vmax911]

Let see:
GPM knuckles
GPM universals
GPM bulkhead
Ratzas Racer Chassis
Ratzas Racer upper deck
Ratzas Rear deck
VCS shock
HPI rear ball diff
GH front Ball diff
GH front shocks
Dynamite Rear tires
Dynamite Foam Bumper
Stainless Steel screws
Futaba 132H Servo
Futab MC230CR ESC
6 cell 1100 Mah Battery
Orion Bigblock Motor

I think that's about it!

[Tiggs1]

Wow! Thanks for the great info guys. I think I will keep the stock front diff until it is totally usless and then upgrade. Maybe they will offer a rebuildable diff by then. Now that speing is almost here, I am moving from my Micro to my MP-7.5 :D

[Jason C]

Thanks, Blurredvision. Are you using an aluminum pulley in front? Or stock?

That's a pretty impressive list of goodies, Vmax. I'd love to go all graphite, but limited funds are holding me back.:(

Tiggs,

You ever run your 7.5 in snow? I'd love to bring an 1/8 buggy to a ski resort like Afton or Wild Mountain and do a hill climb up a black diamond. Then I could hit the moguls with it on the way down. :D

[blurredvision]

I'm using the stock pulley, but am considering the Aluminum one, is anyone running the Aluminum front pulley?

Jay

[Vmax911]

Oh yeah, i forgot to mention the aluminum front pulley!

Works fine, but I never had any problem with my stock one either.

Jason-
Just buy one piece at a time, or else you'll have a coronary when you get the bill! I bought hop-ups before I even had a micro. :)

[Tiggs1]

Jason...you are full of good ideas :D

[Jason C]

Thanks, Tiggs!:D

Vmax,

So far, the hop-ups I have added are what I feel "necessary" upgrades. I snapped the stock steering knuckles at the 2nd time out at the track so I knew alloy ones would be a wise investment. After trading paint with my buddy's Pro3 at the track, I managed to lose a wheel and it rolled down the straight while my car veered into the wall. The GH wheels make installation and removal easy (no more pulling at the stupid wheel!)
The rest of the hop-ups evetually found their way onto my car as time passed. I think my car is buying itself hop-ups and using my money without me knowing :p . Perhaps an aluminum pulley will appear in the near future.
Oh well, maybe I'll replace the chassis if I manage to break the stock one.

[Jason C]

Hey Tiggs,

Enjoying the lovely Minnesota weather?;)
I guess we gotta pay mother nature back for the mild winter we've had so far. Better put that 7.5 back in the closet and take out the Micro!

Ever thought of putting a mini snow plow on your buggy?

[Jason C]

---> Another update on the GH front ball diff <---

As I stated earlier in my mini-review that the diff was gritty, but smoother than the stock diff. I just took apart the diff and polished the thrust plates and the thing is silky smooth!!

Here's what I did:

First, I wrapped both halves of the diff in masking tape to prevent damage to the case and I used 2 large pliers the grab the halves. By applying a twisting and pulling motion, the glue seal broke and the halves twisted apart revealing the innards.

Next, I cleaned everything out with a good blast of motor spray taking extra care to remember how it all came apart. The longer half of the case which contains the caged balls will require a bit of force to push out the thrust plate and cage. I simply used the steel outdrive and rotated it so that it sat on the set screw in the thrust plate and tapped out the innards with a hammer (do it gently!!).

I noticed the thrust plates have identical sides so one should be able to double the lifespan of the diff by simply flipping over the plates to expose fresh steel once they are worn out. I used 400 grit sandpaper and sanded the plates in a figure-8 with a few drops of nitro after-run oil to carry away debris. After the plate surface was ground smooth, I clamped it in my vise and buffed it with my Dremel to a mirror finish.

With both plates finished, I reassembled the diff using Associated's stealth tranny lube. Although the diff comes from the factory with a glue seal, the diff holds together nicely with just a press fit. I used padded clamps to squeeze the diff halves back together and it came out very smooth. Just remember to give the diff a little break-in period to make sure everything seats itself and you are ready to race!

[Tiggs1]

LOL Jason! I couldn't believe how much snow got dumped on us!!! I was all read to break in my new engine on the 7.5 :rolleyes:

Thanks for the update on the front diff. Looks like I will be taking the Micro out of hibernation :D

[RS4]

Jason, i will have to take your advice on the gh ball diff. i havent done anything to mine yet, i am sure it could use a little tuning. my micro is pretty much as complete as i want it, my setup is:

-gh front ball diff
-team homies rear ball diff
-aluminum knuckles
-gpm aluminum universals
-hardcore ti rear deck
-ratzas racer upper deck
-ratzas racer chassis
-graupner speed 300
-6v 2/3a nimh pack
-gm racing v3r speedo
-jr xr2 radio/reciever
-hs-81mg servo

i am still in need of upgrading my suspension, i dont even have a rear shock, i have problems with the hardcore deck and speed 300. i also will get some softer rear tires when i have a chance.

[Jason C]

You can't use the stock shock with the 300 size motor can you, RS4? In order to fit the VCS Micro shock to my HardCore rear deck, I had to cut off the crossmember and grind away some of the material. I completely ground off the 150mm ball stud hole on the Ti deck and used the 140mm hole for my shock. I used a long Assoc. ball stud and added spacers between the rear pod's plastic ball stud to add a few mm's of length. Even so, I had to trim off a bit of the spring so I could make us of the adjustment collar on the shock.

It's a lot of work and cutting titanium is hard on the cut-off wheels (I ran thru 4 of them). I think it would have been a better deal to just buy either IPD's or the Ratzas rear shock mount. It was designed for this purpose and would probably work with your big motor. You can always cut off the rear pod's plastic ball stud and thread in a longer one to make clearance for the Big Block.

Take it easy with the GH diff and you should be fine. Remember to pack plenty of fresh grease back in after you're done.

Have you been back to the track lately?

[RS4]

ooooooook, i will probably either run without the shock (the ratzas chassis seems to function quite well without one) or maybe i will get a different deck. but i have not been to the track lately, i will get there soon so i can try my new set up. plus i am on spring break in less than a week, so i will have the time.

[turbo your .15]

my micro is sooo fun especially in the school gym. i have the dynamite carbon fiber chassis and radio plate, team orion coreless motor and 7.2 volt battery pack, front one way, jr xr-3 radio, and futaba mc230 esc. hopefully the speed controller wont catch fire its been replaced by futaba 2 times already but that was with my old car. every time something breaks i have to upgrade it since my lhs is scaming me into buying new parts thats why i have the one way and im getting the aluminum cvd's.
the micro rs4 is definately not a rally car :D jumping it broke my cvd's

[bay1219]

Here's a pic of my M3. I've added a lot of stuff since this picture was taken. This body is totally wrecked and I'm in the process of painting a C5 body. So far, the inventory for this car consists of:

Team Homies front knuckles
GPM front universals
GPM front one-way (pro-style)
GH front ball diff
Venom wheels
Novak XXL receiver
Novak Fusion ESC
Orion 7.2V pack (2)
HPI mod motor
Graupner Speed 300 motor w/ plate
Orion pinion gears
Hitec HS81 MG micro servo

[HYDRAMATIC99]

sounds like a nice car Bay. Get a pic up of that vette when you get it done.

[Jason C]

Bay,

Do you get better reception wrapping the antenna around the outside of the tube as opposed to threading it inside the tube?


I had a battery accident the other night while charging my 6-cell AAA pack. I had my DuraTrax Intellipeak Deluxe set at just under 1 amp and I plugged in the pack of Energizer Ni-MH 600 mAh AAAs to charge. Shortly afterwards, I was called to go out for dinner with some family friends. When I got back, there was a acrid smell of burnt plastic in my room and my charger was still pumping juice into my now fried pack. I estimate the charge time was not quite 2 hours.

4 of the cells had burst/vented and the shrink wrap was melted away. Luckily, I had my pack resting on an old 26mm rim and that was melted where the cells touched it, bit it spared my desk from any damage. I don't know why this happened. My charger had always properly peaked the pack without it getting too hot. I guess I am to blame - should never have left it unattended.:(

I hope this never happens to any of you guys any your batteries. I'm thinking of getting an Ofna Brick pack to replace my fried one. What do you guys think of it and what would be a safe amp setting for charging?

Thanks.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well here's a list of my parts:D

*HARDCORE*
Main Ti Chassis
Upper Front Ti
Upper Rear Ti
Hinge Pin Brace Ti
Motor Mount Ti
Aluminum Nova Rims

*DYNAMITE*
Front Universals (might not use)
Aluminum Heatsink (might not use)

*HPI*
Ball Diff Set
Front One-Way

*ORION*
Elite Micro Mod Motor
Mirco Suspension
***I plan on getting the other optional parts from Orion***

:cool:

[bay1219]

HYDRAMATIC99 - Thanks. I'll post a pic when it's done. I've been real busy lately and I've also been doing a lot of wrenching on my new TC3. Well, I actually bought it used from someone, but it's new to me.

Jason C - I'm not really sure if I actually get better reception or anything by wrapping it around the antenna tube. I just did that because I didn't have anywhere else to put the antenna. That picture I posted of my M3 was taken when I had my old Hitec receiver in the car. Now I have a Novak XXL and the antenna isn't as long as the Hitec.

[FTR]

well i was in the lhs trash talkin the micro then i majicly had an m8 in my hand controlling a micro damn those are cool lil suckers so i plan on gettin one heres what i have as far as a list what do you think ? i will be racing mod carpet novinLXBEF4 Team Orion Micro Elite Modified Motor

1 43.99
LXBNX1 Powerline Carbon Rear Deck Micro RS4

1 14.79
LXBNX0 Powerline Carbon Upper Deck Micro RS4

1 10.19
LC2230 W.S. Deans 2-Pin Ultra Plug

2 2.99
SC1080 Trinity Receiver Pack 1/8 On-Road Flat

2 27.99
LXKX15 W.S. Deans Silicone Wire 12-Gauge 2' Red/Black

1 5.69
LXKX35 W.S. Deans Probar 2.0 (6)

1 3.79
LC3503 Novak Cyclone TC2

1 137.99
LXAYV3 HPI Hi-Profile Wide Tire Soft Micro RS4

2 8.59
LXAYW5 HPI Wheel Set Chrome Micro RS4

1 9.99
LXASX672 2PHKA R122JE 1-S3003 72 75630

1 66.99
LC2247 DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Pulse Charger
Accessories Needed
1 54.99
LXBGE8 HPI Pinion Gear 12T Steel Micro RS4

1 3.89
LXATG5 HPI Micro RS4 Kit w/Skyline GT-R Body
Accessories Needed
1 99.99
LXBKZ5 Team Orion Micro RS4 Heatsink Motor Plate

1 10.99
LXBEG6 Team Orion Micro Suspension Tuning Kit RS4

1 13.79
LXBWY8 Team Orion Micro RS4 Carbon Fiber Chassis

1 18.39
LXBLA9 Team Orion Micro Rear Ball Diff Set

1 29.99
LXBLB0 Team Orion Micro Front 1-Way Diff Set

1 34.99
LXCY28 Pactra Polycarb 3 oz. Pearl White

A 1 3.49
LXCY38 Pactra Polycarb 3 oz. Brilliant Blue

A 1 3.49
LXCY39 Pactra Polycarb 3 oz. Bright Red

A 1 3.49
Sub-Totals: In-Stock Items: $541.70
Your order contains back-ordered merchandise.
Click here for our back order policy. Back Orders: $108.35
Combined: $650.05
ce

[Jason C]

Okay, thanks, Bay.


FTR,

That's quite a long list. Since you're racing carpet mod, may I suggest either an IPD or Ratzas pan chassis? It is wider than normal Micro chassis so it allows you to place your ESC and Rx on the lower deck to lower the CG. If you don't plan to use stock battery mounting positions, then Ratzas' racer upper deck or IPD's upper deck is a fine choice as it has less material for less weight than stock. Some guys even run without an upper deck. I hear Penguin RC is working on a new chassis and is supposed to be really great. It's still in R&D and they estimate it will be released in a couple of months.

As for the ESC, a Cyclone is way overkill - an LRP Quantum Sport is more than enough and leaves more $$$ in your wallet for more things. For the batteries, I heard some good things about Ofna's Brick pack at my LHS - very compact and decent punch. They can be had in a loose kit so you can add as many cells as you want. 12 gauge wire is not necessary, the motor tabs are kinda small and that makes the thick wires harder to solder on. Also, thick wires can tweak the rear pod and hamper rear suspension action. I suggest 16 or 18 gauge.

I'm not too sure about the motor heat sink. Unless you're running 30 min mains, heat really isn't that much of a problem. I run HPI's mod motor and 7.2 volts. After a 20 min run, the motor is warm, but not so hot that I couldn't keep my finger on it. I've never run Orion's Elite, so it may be different for you.

As for wheels, I find they tend to get pushed into the inner wheels when you clip a board. Eventually, your car will end up running at the narrowest width unless you're a great driver. HardCore Racing has nice alloy wheels that are the same weight as stock according to them. I run GH wheels that use a 3-screw system to attach them to the adapters - looks cool and is much easier to service than having to yank at the wheels to get them off.

Hope this helps you.

[FTR]

yeah i was lookin at that chassy and i really like it. my friend got the trinity one and he gets 55- 70 minuts of runtime. and i will probably just use a sport quantum

[Jason C]

Anyone have the Ratzas Pan chassis? I just ordered one along with the racer top deck. I'm going to place everything (ESC, Rx, batts) on the lower deck. I also found that 6 AAAs can be configured into a "brick" pack that's a bit smaller than the Ofna Brick pack. I guess I'll try my luck with the AAAs again and be more careful when charging them. I'll be taping the pack to the lower deck and maybe use some washers to lower the CG a millimeter or two.

[blurredvision]

Jason C - Let me know how the Ratzas is...and I'll let you know how the new IPD Racing one is, I have the Pro Pan chassis coming. I'm looking forward to it, I have not run 140mm yet...

Jay

[Jason C]

I'm expecting it on the 8th, so I'll post what I think soon. I had considered getting the IPD Pan chassis, but it was 140mm and I already have 2 150mm bodies: the BMW and Corvette. Are you planning to use a VCS shock?

[blurredvision]

Right now I am using the VCS on IPD 150mm chassis, it works very well. I'm not sure if it will work on the new chassis or not. I'll see if it works with the new chassis then try out a couple of set ups.

Jay

[Jason C]

Okay. Got the Ratzas Pan chassis and upper deck. They are very well made and the "Omni-flex" works pretty well - it allows a good deal of flex both vertically and torsionally. The chassis is quite stiff up front and I'm not surprised if it would run well without the upper deck at all. I retained my modified HardCore rear Ti deck with VCS Micro shock for additional flex control.

I didn't get the chance to go out to the track (not open on Mondays and I have a midterm to study for) so my kitchen had to suffice. There was a noticable improvement in handling - I had better response and more steering. All the electronics now sit on the lower deck with the battery pack slung under the upper deck using filament tape. I also removed the front ball diff and belt to run as RWD only. I weighed the diff, universals, belt, and outdrives on my dad's powder scale and found out I removed 30 grams of rotating weight! That in itself probably does wonders for handling and I like my cars to be realistic - how many 4WD Corvettes have you seen?:rolleyes:

The chassis looks so cool, I keep getting distracted from my books to admire the car :D . At this rate, I'll fail my test :(. Better hide it in the closet.



I'll try to borrow my cousin's digicam and post some pics. How do you post pics? Can I just save the image in my computer and post the pic as an attachment? Thanks.

[blurredvision]

I just received my IPD Racing Pan chassis today. I wasn't dissapointed, it's the same great quality I have come to expect from IPD Racing. I also received the new IPD Racing race 20 competition ESC...WOW! this thing is like half the size of my Novak XXL fm receiver! I have decided to go buy another Micro so I can race my 150mm IPD Racing chassis, and now a 140mm IPD Racing pan chassis.

I got home from work very late and have to go in early, on top of that I have a bad head cold that I am trying to get rid of...Expect pics/details in the next few days. :)

Jay

[Jason C]

I was driving my upgraded Micro today and I found that rear traction is improved if you just remove the shock spring from the VCS Micro shock. The unsprung shock will serve to dampen the chassis flex and will result in a softer rear suspension. If you decide to do that, you may want to go up to a slightly heavier weight shock oil to prevent the rear from "skipping" on hard turns. I'm currently using Trinity 30W oil in my shock.




Blurredvision,

Is there a switch on the IPD ESC?

[blurredvision]

Jason C- nope no switch on the ESC, I have not hooked it up yet. Here are some specs -
Voltage range / # of cells > 6-12V/5-10
Maxx load 1min > 25A
Continuous load > 20A
Maxx recommended motor > Speed 480
Weight excl leads > 8g
Dimensions (mm) > 24 x 19 x 10
BEC > Yes
Plug and Race technology
Silicone flexleads
Dynamic Brakes


Here is a pics of the Race-20 esc -
http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/Micro/race20esc.jpg

I bought a 140mm Micro so I can have a dedicated 150mm and 140mm cars. Trying really hard to have it built by the end of next week (have more parts coming and busy updating my site).

However I did find out a very cool thing with the IPD Racing Pan chassis, when they designed the shorter chassis they took 10mm out of the middle so you have the rear pod of a 150mm. Also you have the room to easily install a Big Block ;)

Here are a couple of teaser pics,
http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/Micro/IPD140Pan.jpg

http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/Micro/ipd140bigblock.jpg

http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/Micro/panunderbody.jpg

You guys will be the first to know when I get it done.

Jay

[Jason C]

Wow! Very small! Too bad it doesn't have reverse or a switch (not that you'd really need it for racing). Is there a Micro class at your track? I hope to see your completed Micro soon.

[Jason C]

Okay, I finally got some pics of my Micro on my cousin's website.


http://www.krizan.com:8888/jason/

[RS4]

nice micro jason, its looks a lot different than last time i saw it. i like the new body.

how does the different width settings on the corvette help/hurt the handling?

[Jason C]

Thanks! I got the Vette so I could use the widest settings.

I think the extra width helps - the car is more stable and I have yet to flip it on a turn. I know it's only a few millimeters, but it does make a difference.
I noticed the biggest difference after removing the GH front ball diff, steel universals, and belt to run as RWD. That shaved off 30 grams and the car felt a lot more responsive in turns. Adding the Pan chassis also helps lower the CG for even better handling.

[RS4]

well now that it is finally (somewhat) dry here, i think it is time for me to set up my track in my backyard. i have a slab of concrete that is 24x30 ft (its a basketball court, about as long as a nba 3 pt line straight out from the basket, but not as wide). i think i will get some 1/2'' pvc and all the connecters after i measure out how much i need. its actually almost a perfect area for a track, i got a deck right next to it that gets you a couple feet off the ground, so it acts like a driver's stand. the concrete is 3 or 4 years old and is in very good shape. i might have to throw some duct tape over the seams to avoid scratching my ratzas chassis, but other than that it should be pretty nice. :D

[Jason C]

That's a pretty good size track. Is it smooth concrete? My basement is the smooth stuff and I constantly slide everywhere. RWD is a pain as the moment I hit the gas, it spins out. I've even mopped the floor clean and still have traction problems.

[RS4]

well i have taken the micro out a few times now. the pavement is rough enough, spins arent an issue. it is the stuff that is used on driveways/sidewalks/etc, just plain ol concrete. i have put a few scratches in my chassis, but that is more from a few times where i went a lil too fast and off the court. i have enough room to get close to top speed. once i get some pvc, i could make a real nice track. the one thing that has been bothering me is the rear of my car likes to skip on the cement.

[Jason C]

Still using that Speed 300? Try HPI's mod motor or Orion's Elite Mod, then you can add a rear shock - it helps. As for the concrete seams, try using plaster of Paris to fill them. You can probably chip it off later if necessary.

[Got Speed]

I am hoping to get a corvette micro in June but I don't know hardly anything about them because I have been in nitro.

1-I heard the Viper won't fit a standard ESC. Is that true?

2-I have 10 Sanyo untabbed Ni-Cad AAs can I make a batt pack out of them?

3-Can I race in my driveway if I fill in the cracks?

4-Is there any difference between the micro you get other than having to use a specific wheelbase?

5-Do things break often?

6-How do you control brake and reverse?

7-How do you race you cars, with a transponder system?

8-What is the best thing to use to make a track?

9-What are the minimum specs for an ESC?

Thanks

[blurredvision]

ok, lots of questions...here we go,

1. False, you might have to mount it on the rear deck if anything. Recommended esc's - IPD Racing Race-20(forward/brake), Quantum Micro/Reverse(forward/brake/reverse). There are others, but I recommend these.

2.Yes, but you will probably want to use something smaller and lighter, like OFNA Brick Cells or 2/3 AA's.

3.Yes, you can race on any smooth surface, even low pyle carpet.

4.The only difference is the size of the belt. The 150mm uses a 122 tooth belt part #HPI72316 and the 140mm uses a 116 tooth belt part #HPI72314.

5.Depending on your driving style. If you like to run into things at full speed often then yes things will break. I have not broken one part on my Micro's.

6.Brake and reverse are controled though the Transmitter to the esc. The esc then tell's the motor brakes or reverse.

7.You need to make something to hold the Transponder...I'm trying to find a link to show you.

8.anything from PVC pipe to an electrical extension cord.

9.This depends on what motor you are going to run and how many cells you are going to use.

Here are some Micro sites that might help you out,

www.micrors4racer.com (http://www.micrors4racer.com)
www.yourmicro.com (http://www.yourmicro.com)
HPI forum (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/index.php)
My site (http://galeforce.tripod.ca)

By the way you can buy a RTR Micro now. They are 150mm and come with everything but batteries.

Jay

[Jason C]

Some ESCs have a "double pump" reverse activation (Futaba MC230CR and MC330CR). I like this feature as your car will not suddenly reverse at full throttle if you hold the trigger up for too long (i.e. panic braking). I have the LRP Quantum Reverse and it lacks this feature, but I like it due to its small size and user replaceable wires.

As for running on your driveway, make sure you clean off any debris. Even the smallest pebble can ruin your gears (I mangled my 11 tooth pinion after a small pebble got stuck in the spur gear).

I have noted one weak spot in the Micro (Blurredvision is probably a way better driver than I). The steering knuckles can break rather easily if you happen to run into a solid object with the wheels turned. I suggest you get some alloy knuckles with your kit.

[blurredvision]

Jason C - I doubt that I am a better driver! :)
My "fix" for the Knuckles is an easy one, don't install the screws that go in the bottom of them. I have done this since day one, and have no problems. The suspension doesn't have enough travel for them to pop out, try it and let me know. I find without this screw they stay a bit more plyable, more forgiving in a colision. ;)

Jay

[Jason C]

I think you'll agree with me that you are a better driver after you see me drive :D .

I'd love to try it, but I only have the alloy knuckles now. I busted the right knuckle at the track by riding the barrier with wheels turned left. My alloy ones (Dynamite) have a separate "nub" that uses a screw to attach them to the main knuckle. I've nailed pretty much everything there is to hit in my house (much to my folks' dislike) and the alloy knuckles are still fine.
But, if I find a set of stock knuckles at my LHS, I'll give them a try. The bearings fit better in the stock ones. I had to use the shimming trick to reduce the slop in the Dynamite ones.


Thanks for the tip!


How's the IPD pan chassis?

[Got Speed]

Ok, thanks
Two more things though.

If you hold the trigger all the way up will it instantly go into reverse. Brake for a few seconds then go to reverse or brake until stopped then go to reverse?

I am just going to buy an inepensive ESC for now so would this work with my Futaba FM reciever?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LC3468&P=1

Nice site.

[Vmax911]

I would not suggest that ESC! I had one on a stock micro with a 7.2V pack. The ES-01 lasted 3 packs before it melted down. It has no brakes, when you push the trigger up it goes straight to reverse. You would be much happier with the Futaba MC230 or the Airtronics BL racer. They are both under $50, have brakes, reverse, and reverse lockout for racing.

BTW I do have both ESC's. :)

[Got Speed]

Thanks. Will it handle orions big block motor?

[Jason C]

Holding the trigger full forward will not throw your car into reverse instantly IF your ESC is equipped with a brake. Most ESCs with the brake/reverse feature will have proportional brake until it detects the car has slowed to a safe speed before engaging reverse.

Pretty much any ESC will work with any radio system. I agree with Vmax, the Futaba and Airtronics ESCs are great for the money, albeit a bit chunky. You can probably get an LRP Quantum Sport for around $60-$70, but it's a forward/brake only. The Quantum reverse is around $80-$90.

All of the ESCs listed in my post will easily handle the Big Block motor.

[blurredvision]

Jason C - I haven't run the chassis yet, I'm still waiting on a few parts ;) . It's very hard to wait, though.

Here is an updated pic, not much different fron the earlier pics.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/Micro/ipd140panBBGF.jpg

I'm hoping to have all the parts next week :) I'll post pics when it's done.

Jay

[Jason C]

I hear ya, waiting is the hardest part. I was browsing on micrors4racer.com and I saw two versions of the IPD pan chassis - one of them had some kind of servo mounting plate. Did you get that one? The Ratzas comes with a nice mount for any servo (have to drill your own holes into the plastic mount). Unfortunately, I already cut off both ears on my servo so I had to tape it on the chassis.

[blurredvision]

Yeah, I have the Pro Chassis with servo mount. The servo mount raises the servo so it doesn't affect front suspension travel. To secure the servo I use high grade 3M double sided tape (the green stuff). I don't know if it is available at the retail level, I buy it for our shop through one of my parts suppliers. Works like a charm though! It's still holding my servo in my 150mm car, which is suspended from the bottom of the top chassis, has not budged one bit!

Jay

[Vmax911]

I have to post some pics of my new body!

http://www.crazrc.com/images/photos/Left.jpg

http://www.crazrc.com/images/photos/FrontOn.jpg

http://www.crazrc.com/images/photos/RearOn.jpg

[Got Speed]

Does anyone make bodys other than the HPI.

[Jason C]

Awesome 'Vette, Vmax! How did you wire the lights up? Is it powered by the main battery pack?


Blurredvision,

Yeah, I don't think the green 3M tape is available retail. I've never seen it before. Just hope you don't mess up when mounting it.


Got Speed,

I think BRP and ARM make some 1/18 scale bodies. ARM makes some GT1 bodies, I think.

[Vmax911]

Thanks! I just used some solder, resistors, LED's, and Ohms law. :D

Yes, it runs off the battery pack.

[Mason Copeland]

Hey you guys, doe sanyone know if it is safe to charge a one of the 7.2 1100 mah micro rs4 batteries at 2 amps? Will it damage my pack?

[Jason C]

So your lights turn on when you switch the car on? Sorry, I'm not much of an electrical engineer.





Mason,

I'd start out at 1 amp first and check the pack's temp after a full charge. If it isn't too warm, then you can probably go up to 2 amps. Just be sure to keep the pack from getting too hot and it should be fine.

[Mason Copeland]

Thanks for the help. My problem, though, is my charger only charges at 2 or 4 amps. Is it safe to try? I'll monitor the heat and as soon as it get warm, take it off.

[Got Speed]

Jason C- Do you have links to those companys?

Thanks alot.

[Vmax911]

Jason-

That's right, the lights come on when the switch is turned on.

[Jason C]

Mason,

Yeah, go ahead and do that. What charger do you use?


Got Speed,

Here's ARM's site: http://www.americanracingmodels.com/

BRP's site: http://www.brpracing.com/


Vmax,

I see. It would be cool to have the brake lights come on (or brighten) when you brake.:D

[Got Speed]

Thanks alot.

[Vmax911]

Jason,

I have thought of that, it would really be cool. Does anyone know how the brakes on an ESC work? Does it just reverse the polarity? Maybe I'll have to probe it with my volt meter. It shouldn't be too hard....

[Jason C]

I think that's how ESC braking works. I know some ESCs have brake light circuitry built in. Novak's Explorer II and Super Rooster have it I think...

How about some turn signals, fog lights, and back-up lights? :D A horn would be cool too - if you have a 3rd channel.


Got Speed,

Glad I could help.:)

[maximumspeed]

check out this body from American Racing Models.
www.americanracingmodels.com

i like the red one:D

[maximumspeed]

ops i didnt see that Jason C all ready posted the web site.

[Mason Copeland]

Thanks Jason, I use a Pro-max black widow peak detection charger. I just found out that the packs are nickel metal hydride, do you think I could still charge them with a charger meant to charge nicads? Thanks.

[Jason C]

Mason,

I'm not too familiar with the Black Widow charger, but it should charge just the same. Now you have to be very vigilant when charging as Ni-Cd peak chargers look for bigger voltage drops before cutting off. I'd try charging at the 2 amps and checking on the pack every 5-10 minutes or so for the very first charge. It may also be helpful to time the charges so you get an idea of how long the average charge takes just in case the charger fails to peak. At 2 amps, I would think a 1100mAh pack should peak around 20-30 minutes. But these are not Sub-C cells (they're 2/3 A, yes?) so they may get a bit warmer than usual.

If you find the pack too hot early in the charge, you may have to charge it multiple times after letting it cool to get a full pack - not very good for the pack. If you have a problem with your current charger, may I suggest the MCR SuperBrain 959. It's around $50 give or take a few and you can adjust amps, # of cells, etc.

[Mason Copeland]

O.k., thanks for the help Jason.

[Mason Copeland]

Anyone here have a "Ratzas" chassis? :drool: :drool: OMG this thing is so awesome!!

[Mason Copeland]

Toyota GT-1 from American racing models...

[Mason Copeland]

Also an extremely sweet chassis... Anyone know who makes it or wqhat its called?

[Jason C]

My chassis:

[Jason C]

My 'Vette

[blurredvision]

Man, I really like that Vette body! Looks great!

Jay

[Mason Copeland]

BTW: Those are not my cars I posted... And OMG!!! Jason that thing is so sweet! Do you have a hop-ups list or can you at least tell me where you got the chassis? And that thing looks like it is only 2wd now... Is that true?

[Mason Copeland]

I found a track where I can race micro rs4's in my area!!! Now I have to get one!!!

[Jason C]

Thanks, guys.

Mason,

Good eyes! Yes, it is RWD. I found that if I removed the GH front diff, steel universals, and belt, I could shave off 30 grams of rotating weight. It makes the car more difficult to handle, but it accelerates faster.

My parts list:

-Ratzas Pan chassis
-Ratzas Racer upper deck
-GH alloy wheels
-GH front ball diff
-GH adjustable steering slider
-Dynamite alloy steering knuckles
-Dynamite soft tires
-HPI Mod motor
-HPI rear ball diff
-HPI steel universals
-HardCore Racing rear Ti upper deck
-Associated VCS Micro shock
-Novak XXL Rx
-LRP Quantum Reverse
-my own 6-cell AAA pack (700mAh)

I got the Ratzas chassis from www.stormerhobbies.com The rest of the stuff I bought from my LHS. You can find most of these parts between Towerhobbies and Stormer hobbies.

[Mason Copeland]

What are your thoughts on foam tires for the Micro RS4? Also, are there nay weak points that I should know of? Or anything I should do before I drive, or any building tips? What do you think my first upgrade should be (I am keepiong the stock motor and I am planning to use OFNA's Brick pack for a batt)? How do you think the micro would handle with front wheel drive? Thanks for your help and sorry aboput all the ?'s, I jsut want everything to be right.

[Jason C]

Don't worry about the # of Q's. I hope this helps :)

Foams offer excellent grip, but they will wear faster than rubber and will require occasional re-trueing (you'll need a lathe for this). I really don't know of any manufacturers that make foams for the Micro. The guys that run foams adapt them from other cars. Dynamite and HPI tires can be had in a very soft, sticky compound that grips very well. Add traction compound and you have a car that tracks like a slot car :cool:

The one weak point I discovered was the steering knuckles. (If you scroll back a few pages, you'll see a tip from Blurredvision on how to preserve the stock parts). I found they are easy to break if you tap a wall with the wheels turned.

As for building tips, take your time with the front diff. Carefully sand/cut off any burrs on the plastic gears to ensure smooth action. Even the slightest burr or protrusion can make it notchy. Pack the diff with grease afterwards. It may also be helpful to apply a thin film of grease on the inner wheels to aid in pulling off the outer wheel when needed. It can be a bear to yank off! (that's why I switched to GH wheels - unscrew 3 screws and the wheel comes off - easy!)

A good first upgrade would be the alloy steering knuckes (unless you are a good driver ;) ). Otherwise, I think a rear ball diff is a good idea. If you get the ball diff, I highly recommend Losi's caged thrust bearing (part# 3098) as a substitute for HPI's included bearing for the inner wheel. It will help your keep your diff settings from wandering.
Also depending on your track conditions, rear soft tires are wise. My local track has carpet and I found the best tire set up to be: stock fronts with HPI soft rears.

Front wheel drive? Not bad, albeit much wheel spin when accelerating. I just pop out the 4 bevel gears in the rear diff for FWD. It actually handles quite well on carpet or other high grip surfaces as it tends to understeer, keeping the car from swapping ends in the turns. Be careful about the front diff, though. I think I damaged my front diff by too much hard braking and reverse in FWD (the GH front ball diff solves the problem).


Let me know if you need any more help :)

[Mason Copeland]

Can you please tell me the electronics mounting space dimensions? Thanks again.

[Jason C]

Let see... On the stock Micro, you can mount the electronics on the upper deck and rear upper deck. According to my ruler, the front upper deck (rectangle) offers about 3cm x 9cm of space and the rear is about a 5cm square. This is an estimate taken from the edges of the chassis. You can allow the ESC and Rx to hang over the deck a little so you have at least these dimensions to work with.

Keep in mind that different bodies are higher or lower than others and will affect where you mount your gear. The Viper has a smaller cockpit than the BMW so that effectively reduces the available space. if you can afford it, I suggest you get either a Novak XXL, RCD Shredder, or LRP Phaser reciever and an LRP Quantum ESC. These will allow easiest placement of electronics.

[Mason Copeland]

The Shredder is cheap so I can get that. But is it really worht it? I have the small airtronics blue receiver (dont know what its called) and its pretty small. Then I will have an Explorer esc. In the future I may get the LRP esc if I get really serious about racing (doubt it though). Thanks again for the help. Do the aerodynamics difference in the Viper body compared to say... The BMW make a big difference in speed?

[Jason C]

Trust me, you can never have small enough gear for the Micro. Especially since the car is so small and light, a few grams here and there really do add up and have a negative impact on performance. But since you're not racing, go ahead with the cheaper stuff. I suggest you hard-wire your ESC to the motor and shorten any long wires to neaten the chassis. You may need to remove the heatsinks on your Explorer for it to fit. One thing I'd like to point out: if you want to add a VCS Micro shock to damp the rear, you may need to use smaller electronics as a "full" sized ESC and Rx may not all fit on just the front upper deck.

One reason why I recommend the Quantum ESCs (other than their size) is their user-replaceable wires. The stock 12-14 AWG wires used on most ESCs are a bit thick for the Micro and can actually tweak the rear suspension and/or hinder it's movement.

As far as aerodynamics is concerned, I don't think there's much of a difference at all. I never noticed a speed difference between my BMW and Corvette bodies. What makes the bigger difference is the width of the body which dictates the max width of your chassis. If you aren't partial to a particular body, I suggest you go with either a Viper(140mm WB) or Corvette(150mm WB) as they allow for the widest chassis settings in their respective wheelbases.

[pdduubb]

OK, So I dropped $30 bones on the Dynamite Alum front knuckles cuz I have tendacy to bust the plastic ones.

The stock bearings are too large for the aluminum ones.

Does anyone know what size bearing will fit?

:mad:

[Jason C]

They are not too large. The bearings are supposed to be pushed in from the back. Try backing out the ballstud on top before you push in the bearing. It should slide right in and actually be a bit loose.

[pdduubb]

DOH! Whaddayaknow.... they do fit. I am glad there are places like this an idiot can turn to for information.

Thanks

[Conrad]

Has anyone experimented with adding more cells to a speed 300 motor? Something that put out more that the 6 cell Orion pack?

[Jason C]

I haven't and I never plan to - as if the Speed 300 wasn't fast enough!

I found a neat Associated Micro shock. This shock is even smaller than the VCS Micro shock. The part # is 4444. It includes a shock/antenna mount so I assume it was intended for the Micro RS4 or some other micro sized car. I'll try to get some pics up soon.

[Mason Copeland]

I picked up a micro and the OFNA brick pack. I want to remove the cases from my receiver and esc and shrink wrap them. Does anyone know where I can find shrink wrap big enough?

[Got Speed]

Does anyone have a micro they are trying to sell?

falcon247@Juno.com
Thanks

[Jason C]

Mason,

Try the shrinkwrap that is used for stick packs. I know Trinity sells a package of pre-cut wraps for stick packs.

[Mason Copeland]

Oh yeah, thanks.

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

I have a 9.6 volt battery pack in mine, but i am waiting on my new motor. who knows which is better, the Orion big block, or the elite mod?

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

I used battery pack shrink tubing on my reciever, and it fits perfectly
does anyone know how to keep a micro servo strapped down?
i have a hitec micro servo, and it is too small to reach the top deck, but it pops out no matter how much i tape it in.

[Jason C]

For the money, I'd go with a speed 300 (Orion Big Block). It should be able to handle the 9.6 volts better.

Shoe Goo works nicely for mounting servos.

[blurredvision]

Well guys, I have my 140mm pan up and running. Just need to paint a body. :)

This thing handles awesome! and the Race-20 esc is a fine piece. I have three esc's, IPD Racing Race-20, LRP Quantum Reverse, and a Flash. I really like the Race-20, so much that I would not miss my Quantum. REALLY! lol

Anyways here are some pics,

http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/Micro/140/GF140pan01.jpg

http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/Micro/140/GF140pan02.jpg

http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/Micro/140/GF140pan03.jpg

http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/Micro/140/GF140pan04.jpg

I'll post more when I get a body painted.

Jay

[blurredvision]

edit - double post sorry guys.

[Jason C]

:eek: :eek: :eek: Wow!! Very nice!!! You did a great job, Blurredvision! The chassis looks very neat and tidy.

What body will you use? Was it a Stratus? Do you know what widths the Stratus and Civic are? I run the GH wheels so I may have to buy additional adapters if the widths are different.


Thanks.

[InspGadgt]

What servo did u use Blurred? I only see a 140mm IDM chassis listed...do they make a 150?

[LEMMEDRIVEIT!!]

u guys can call me an idiot cause the first post that i did i posted in the list of cars- please call me one- any way, if u haven't seen it, here it is

hey guys guess what? i'm getting a micro rs4!!!! i am gonna get it with a new futaba radio, 2 trinity vis-extra 6 cell micro pack, the bmw version, and an lrp quantum esc- anyone have any better suggestions for the same price? i am gonna try and hopit up alot on the future- is anone not happpy with what i've chosen?. well i can't wait tel i order it in like 2 weeks- see ya.

[Jason C]

InspGadgt,

IPD does make a 150mm chassis, but it's not pan. From what I hear, Ratzas is planning a new pan chassis and Penguin R/C is putting the finishing touches on their new Micro chassis. I believe both will be pan style.


LEMMEDRIVEIT!!,

Good for you :)

[InspGadgt]

I've seen the Rataz pan chassis and I don't like the rear suspension. I do like the setup of the IDM pan chassis only they need to make a 150mm version definately. Haven't seen Penguin's one yet.

[blurredvision]

Jason C - Thanks man! I am using a Stratus body when I get around to painting it :) The width is 3 Front and 4 Back (widest setting) for the Stratus. I did my first testing with the tires more narrow.

InspGadgt - I am using a Hitec-81mg servo. IPD does make a 150mm chassis but not pan. You can see what it looks like on my site (I also have a 150mm). If you want to race get the IPD 140mm Pan, nothing else handles like this chassis yet!

Jay

[InspGadgt]

Man I could never get that servo to center right...and it stripped on the 2nd run...oh well

I saw their 150 chassis...not what I've been lookin for. I want that pan chassis but I want it in 150mm. I run the Vette so it's gotta be 150.

[Jason C]

Here's the Penguin chassis. It's supposed to have a special adjustable rear suspension. This is the regualar version, there's supposed to be a pan chassis released later (according to what I read on HPI's forum)

[InspGadgt]

Sweet a pivot ball suspension! That's the best one I've seen yet...been tryin to figure out how to stick one on that car...any news as to when it'll be released?

[Jason C]

They said early this summer, but they're still working out any bugs and putting it thru final testing. This is just the prototype chassis (I think). Look like it's for 150mm. Here's the adjustable thingy: you can change some parts for a stiffer or softer suspension and it has adjustable torsional flex (or something like that). Looks pretty good so far.

[Jason C]

A shot of the adjustable pod:

[InspGadgt]

That looks way cool...but I can't see where they are attaching stabilizer links to keep the pod from moving side to side....hmmmm

[Jason C]

I guess we just have to wait and see.... Would be nice to see a review of the different chassis in RCCA. Perhaps we will in the new Micros and Minis magazine.

[Jason C]

Blurred,

So the Stratus is pretty much like a Viper, huh? That's good to hear. I may convert to 140mm.

[blurredvision]

Yeah, nice and wide! Do the 140 pan, you won't be disapointed!

Jay

[InspGadgt]

But there's no 140 bodies I like! Stratus is over done and I don't like the real car much...PO'd at Dodge for supporting the Stratus and not the Avenger...Really like the Vette body but it's 150.

[LEMMEDRIVEIT!!]

does any1 know if i can get alluminum shocks for the micro? thanx

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

the 911 turbo is 140, and it is really good looking

[Jason C]

LEMMEDRIVEIT!!,

You mean for the front? GH, Megatech, Orion, and GPM make alloy shocks. GPM also has a front oil-filled shock set, but it's hard to find.



InspGadgt,

I hear ya. My favorite bodies would have to be the Peugot 206 and Subaru 22B (a WRX would be nice too). I'll bet both of them wil be 140 if they are released. I want to see the new Mini Coopers for the Micro!


Blurred,

Too bad I already got the Ratzas chassis :( . I don't mind it, though - more versatile than the IPD and I won't be using a 300 size motor.

[Jason C]

double post, sorry:o

[Jason C]

Foams :cool: not mine, but very cool. I want to make a micro pan car with a Toyota GT-1 body and wide foams.

[blurredvision]

Foams are a coming for my beast, I should have them next week. I'll post results here :)

The foams are coming from Hyper Tech Racing (http://www.hypertechracing.com) they have the wide tire kit also.

Jay

[Jason C]

Yeah, I checked out their site. They only accept PayPal :( . I've always wanted a 1/12 pan car, but I guess 1/18 will be even cooler :) Blurred, do you know what compound the foams are?

[blurredvision]

There is a thread going on about this on yourmicro.com the thread is here (http://www.yourmicro.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1166)

Jay

[Jason C]

Thanks! That guy there asked exactly what I wanted to know. :cool: Softer than pinks, huh? I may end up burning thru a set after a few runs on carpet....

[Mason Copeland]

Anyone run a Micro Elite Stock before? What are your thoughts and opinions on it? 'Cause my stock went out and I need to get a new one and I dont wanna blow my drivetrain out or spend a lot on a motor

[Mason Copeland]

http://www.boomspeed.com/masonc/elitestock.gif

[Jason C]

If you ask me, it's just an HPI kit motor with Orion badging on it. Same with the Big Block - just a Speed 300 with different stickers and a higher price. Their Elite Mod is supposed to be pretty good - better than HPI's mod. But for the money, I don't think it's worth it.

In my opinion, you might be better off getting a few of HPI's kit motors and replacing them when they go. Kyosho also has 180 sized motors (LeMans DMC20BB) and this one is ball-raced.

[Mason Copeland]

Well the Elite Stock is cheaper than the HPI stock so you might wanna stock up on those when they wear out... Anyway I ponied up the dough and got the HPI 45t mod, thanks for the info.

[Jason C]

Really? Cheaper? It was a couple dollars more than the HPI at my LHS.

How do you like the mod, Mason? Compared to my kit motor, I felt the mod had less acceleration, but higher top speed. The replaceable brushes are nice.

[Mason Copeland]

The replaceable brushes really had my vote too. I don't wanna spend 60 bucks on a motor only to have to replace after a couple of months!

At my shop the Elite Stock is $9.99, and the HPI Stock is $11.99.

I haven't really had a chance to run but a few packs through the mod, but so far, I like it! I like it because it's only 10 bucks more than a replacement stocker, and it has a higher speed, it also seemed to pull me out of corners better. I also found that I had better performance for whjat I did with the 11 tooth pinion instead of the 13 tooth one. I thought it had around the same acceleration, but a higher speed. I am used to 1/10 scale motor maintenance, so maintaining it at its top condition will be a breeze for me. All the caps are soldered and everything thing, just plug and play (unless you use aftermarket connectors, like me). I didn't get the recommended steel universals but the stockers have held up well (knock on wood:D ). It may not totally be an Elite mod or a Big-block, but it's brushes are replaceable and for the money, it's a better deal imo.

[LEMMEDRIVEIT!!]

Hey which of the micro motors have replaceable brushes? does the hpi mod have the replaceable brushes or the team orion mod? or is there another one? thanx neway.

[Jason C]

Only the HPI motor has the replaceable brushes. I heard that Kyosho's DMC20BB also has replaceable brushes.

[Mason Copeland]

My micro will soon be equipped with a 13t D4 motor and 7 1900 mah sub-c cells . I will use the motor with a custom adapted motor plate and a few other mods, interested?

[Mason Copeland]

What pitch are the micro rs4 gears (pinion and spur)? Thanks you.

[Jason C]

I'd like to see how you do it. A 540 motor in a Micro :eek: ! I'm not too sure about the pitch - it seems to be a bit "coarser" than 48, but finer than 32. You may have to drill out one of the Micro pinions and shoe goo it on the output shaft.

[Mason Copeland]

Check out Hpi's Micro RS4 forum thread title called "My micro with... (drum roll please)... Brrrrrrrrrr, teesh." for the full scoop. I will show you the pics here when I get them. The micro pinions are WAAAAY to small for the motor to reach the spur. I'll have to use a 37 tooth pinion or higher! Thats why I'm trying to find out the pitch so I'll ge the right pinion gear. Hopefully it's 64 or close because thasts the only pitch that that number of teeth is available in. Do you think a 64 pitch pinion would fit? Do you have one lying around that you could test mesh for me? Thanks.

[Mason Copeland]

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34945

[Jason C]

I guess I'm wrong - 48 pitch seems to mesh well enough. I took a RRP 28 tooth pinion (from my TC3) and ran it around the Micro spur. It meshed pretty well and I didn't feel any binding. I don't have a 64 pitch pinion (too much of a hack driver for such fine teeth).

[Mason Copeland]

Darn. I just bought a 64 pitch pinion. But I hope the Micro pitch is in between 48 and 64, because it will have to do because no one offers that big a pinion in 48 pitch... Oh, well.

[Jason C]

The closest 48P I know of is 35 teeth from RRP. Is the motor can too large for the pinion to reach the spur? Maybe if you went with one of Trinity's flat can motors like the Chameleon and stick your 13t arm inside, you might have enough clearance? The 24 deg. timing should boost rpms.

[Mason Copeland]

Thanks, but I'm trying not to spend a dime on this (I've spent $9.45 so far) and I ha the d4 lying around, so in it went. That is a great idea though. What is the rule of thumb on motor timing? Lower, more torque, higher more rpm's or what is it? It's at 30 degrees now, whjat would give me more torque to pull the 1.4:1 gear ratio (hehe).

[Jason C]

I think both torque and rpms go up with increased timing, but runtime and efficiency go down.

I'd leave it at 0' timing for a start. As if a 13t isn't powerful enough to move a 1 pound car. Just be careful you don't destroy the diff with a pull of the trigger.

[grandmasterofpool]

Hey Guys,

I'm waiting on my first micro to arrive hopefully today or tomorrow. So anyway I'm searching the web for bodies. Looky what I found on Pro-Lines' website this morning!

Dodge Dakota RT

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/large/3129.jpg

GMC Sierra

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/large/3130.jpg

Ferrari Modena 360

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/large/3131.jpg

Nissan 350Z

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/large/3132.jpg

How sweet is that?

[speedydave]

I want that Sierra!

[Mason Copeland]

I want all of those!! Well the gears are definately not 64 pitch as the pinion does not fit at all. But I found a way to get the motor even closer, so now I will be able to use the 35 tooth 48 pitch pinion, yeah!

BTW: I test fitted Trinity's flat-can p2k, but the mounting holes are not on the flat side of the can anyway! Oh, well, don't need it anyhow.

[Jason C]

Great! I can't wait to see pics of your car. Can you even fit a body on it?


Has anyone tried altering the Micro motor timing? For the HPI mod motor, prying up the two endbell tabs should free it up. I'm thinking of making 2 additional tabs on the can using some solder and scrap metal so I can get some extra speed. About 20 deg. advanced timing should help.

[Mason Copeland]

Originally posted by Jason C
Great! I can't wait to see pics of your car. Can you even fit a body on it?


Has anyone tried altering the Micro motor timing? For the HPI mod motor, prying up the two endbell tabs should free it up. I'm thinking of making 2 additional tabs on the can using some solder and scrap metal so I can get some extra speed. About 20 deg. advanced timing should help. The body does fit, but it will have to be a VW Beetle or some other one with a lot of clearance or I'll have to raise it a lot. BTW: The chassis is still not finished, I need to buy more parts cause I accidentally ruined them during modding.

The timing thing sounds like a good idea, try it out and let us know, don't forget to mark how fast it went before the mod. You'll also need to make marks in the can for where the tab goes.

[Mason Copeland]

I'm also thinking about making an off-road micro "go-cart". I have some wheels and tires from a Tyco non-hobby type rc car that I can use. Then I can shorten up the wheelbase (for no real reason, except I think it looks better, might look a little more scale), then add a brass roll-cage. The only downsides are: 1. Dirt can get into the pinion/spur mesh, but it shouldn't be a huge problem. 2. I'll have to use smaller batts. due to less room, therefore a less powerful motor (unless I want to have very little run-time). 3. No rear and barely any front suspension. But this can be a good thing too since most real go-carts have no rear suspension and have barely any front suspension.:D

[Jason C]

Give it a try.


As for the timing, I got max rpms at about 30 deg. Unfortunately, I don't have a dyno so I judged it by sound. Unfortunately, the mod made my motor all weird and now it causes a lot of glitching - can't even drive in a straight line anymore. Oh well, I've always wanted to try the Orion Elite mod, so now I have an excuse.

[Mason Copeland]

Isn't it cool how things work out like that sometimes?:D :D

[sprintr]

anybody try the Team Orion flash ESC for the Micro? How does it work? Is it very smooth?

[AssociatedRacer]

hey guys, im getting a micro hopefully, what should i do? any precautions to talk or something?

[blurredvision]

I do not like my Flash at all...

[sprintr]

why??

[blurredvision]

It wasn't smooth, didn't work well with my Elite Mod (faster in reverse than forward). It took three months for Team Orion to fix it and send it back to me. Would you like me to go on?

Jay

[Jason C]

I just got the Elite Mod. Wow is it smooth! The cogging effect is absent and the wheels spin freely once off power (almost like having a one-way). It is so much quieter than the HPI mod too, now the only noise comes from the gears chattering. Just have to be careful about the motor tabs...

[RS4rally1124]

i am building a micro as i am sure some of you saw my thread about building a micro. now i have three questions:

1. for the chassis do i go titanium or graphite. i like ti because of color but i don't know which is better

2. which motor. elite stock or modified

3. which esc? i was thinking flash but now thinking lrp


thanks
JT

[Jason C]

1. Unless you plan to jump your Micro (or you are a very bad driver), go with graphite. It is far lighter than Ti and you can get them in a pan-style chassis. If you race, graphite is it. Otherwise, Ti offers the best in durability - your Micro will probably out live you.

2. Elite Mod. I know it's $40, but after using it once, I'm sold! The stock motor gives decent speed with 6 cells, but you'll quickly get used to it and want more.

3. LRP Quantum. The Quantum Micro ESC is a bit pricey so I'd just go with a Sport or Reverse. The Flash has had some problems in the past (ask Blurredvision).

[RS4rally1124]

ok so graphite and elite mod. i will most likely not be jumping. i may go rally after a while.

i will probably start building so if you have any other advice i would like it.


JT

[blurredvision]

Jason C - I think you mean don't ask Blurred Vision about the Flash! LOL

RS4rally1124 - Listen to Jason C. He knows what he is talking about. The Elite Mod is a very smooth/fast motor, but you need to be carefull not to strip the mounting holes (happens easy than one might think) and try not to use heavy wire for the motor leads, you might break off a motor tab if you do. That being said, I like my Elite Mod.

As for Chassis look at any chassis from IPD Racing (http://www.micrors4racer.com) or Ratzas (http://www.ratzas.net/ratzas_performance_rc_001.htm) . I have a 150mm and 140mm chassis from IPD racing and wouldn't trade them for anything!

Now ESC's If you want reverse go with the Quantum Reverse or Micro. If you don't care about reverse go with the IPD Racing Race-20 ESC. I am using the Quantum Reverse in my 150mm car with an Elite Mod and the IPD Race-20 in my 140mm Pan with a Big Block. Both ESC's are top notch!

Hope this helps.
Jason Gale

[Jason C]

Hey Blurredvision,

I see you have reviewed the Hypertech foams. I made a super wide set for the rear (25mm wide). They hook up better on carpet and look pretty cool. I have basically converted my Micro to a 1/18 pan car and I want to use the Corally SP12M rear rubber boot damper. Hopefully I can get just the damper and modify it for Micro use.

[blurredvision]

Yeah, I love these foams. I have all the control I need when using these. I would like to try a extra wide rear as well.

The rear damper sounds interesting, keep us up to date on your progress.

Jay

[Jason C]

Well, I shot an e-mail off to Corally asking about the SP12M's damper. From the looks of it, I'll have to clear off the rear upper deck and mount the antenna elsewhere. I may even have to relocate the rear body posts to be pan-car style. The damper is a bit big for a 1/18, but I think I can work something out.

I took my Micro pan car to the track today and it turned a few heads. The foams hooked up incredibly well with just enough push to make driving easy. Since I had it on RWD, spins were common if I got on the throttle too aggressively. I hope the Corally damper will ease that.

I'll try to get a couple pics of my Micro-Pan with wide tires. Basically, I CAd a rear rim and a cut down front to make it 25mm wide.

[Vostok 7]

Hello all.

I'm kinda new at this R/C stuff but have been around it for awhile (not up with all the newfangled stuff :rolleyes: ).

Anyway, I'm looking at getting one of the new RTR Micro RS4s and I'm wondering what kind of hop-ups to get.

I'm on a pretty limited budget, so I'm wondering what I can do to get the most bang for my buck. I'm looking mostly in the drivetrain/chassis/suspention/wheels/tires area.

Vostok 7

[XXXER]

OKay guys, I finally gave in and bought the Big Block motor, instead of sending in my Elite Mod (which I still plan on doing) but now I am having BIG problems with tearing up the front one-way diff case, where it attaches to the pulley, and those little teeth just shread off in about 2 battery packs. I have gone through 3 just these last 5 runs or so.


I CANNOT KEEP THIS UP!
Jason or blurred, do you have any answers? Thanks.

-Steve

[blurredvision]

Well I don't have any good news for you...this is a common problem with HPI front one-ways.
I personally run the GH front ball diff with my B B and have no problems. However I'm using the HPI front one way with my Elite Mod, no problems.

What brand front one-way are you using?

[XXXER]

This is the HPI one-way seding power to the wheels by way of HPI steel universals. I thought this drivetrain was bullet proof with all the stuff I put on it, I guess I was wrong.


UPDATE: Last night, while running my micro on my very rocky/bumpy street, I ran into my foot (of all places, but hey! it was dark!) I popped my Quantum right off the lower half of the case, and even worse, I did somethign really trippy to my servo, which is not dead. When taking my car to work, so that I could rebuild it, I noticed a much worse problem, my Hardcore Titanium chassis is now TWEAKED. That is right, I bent my Ti chassis, right on the "Unique Flex" area. BS is what that is, and downright lame. They will be getting a call from me, and I will have a replacement on the way ASAP. I thought that they were "Tweak Free" chassis'. Suppose I was wrong.

Blurred, also, does it help if I say I am using a 13 tooth pinion on the motor? I am not racing it, just doing fast speed runs around the neighbood and school.

Thanks
-Steve

[blurredvision]

I'm using a 13t also. This should be better than using a smaller pinion. You would have more torque with a smaller pinion, and more problems.

I'm very suprised that you tweaked the HC ti chassis...WOW! you are a monster! lol j/k :)

Let me sleep on it and see if I can come up with some kind of answer for you.

[blurredvision]

This is what I found for you- read this thread (http://www.yourmicro.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=176&highlight=oneway) and go here (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34421&highlight=front+oneway) , long thread but HPI shows the revised one-way LOL

Looks like guys are using the GPM Pro one way because it is all alloy, even the tabs.

Picture from Micro RS4 Racer.com


http://www3.sympatico.ca/galeforce/GPM-DMH044.jpg

Well not the best answers, but it something.

Jay

[XXXER]

Jay, those threads were very informative. Now my question is how can I get my hands on some of those foam pads for the one way, and why the heck I cannot register on HPI's forum. Their site totally sucks! Their under engineered car is sending me other places for RC products. I think that this may work for me as well, but then, there goes my 25 bucks (Hobby shop discount) on a one-way diff.
http://66.70.235.59/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/GH02325.jpg

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

what rubber tires do you use? i need ones that wears for a loooong time.. the stock imo wears kinda fast

[Jason C]

XXXer,

That is one reason why I never liked one-ways - they can shear off drivetrain parts. My friend's one-way ate numerous plastic CVDs on his TC3 and even broke an alloy bone!

That is the GH ball diff you've got pictured there. I have one - very nice for the money, but it could use a little polishing to smooth out the action (read my review a number of pages back). I have never had any problems with the GH front diff.

However, now I have converted my Micro into a 1/18 pan car so it is 2WD.



NMT,

I now run Hypertech foams, but I found the Dynamite tires to be very grippy and long wearing.

[blurredvision]

I use that ball diff with my BB and no problems. I love how it works after you have it broken in (polishing).

For tires I am using Hyper Tech Racing foams, they have awesome grip but do not last long. I also run GPM 25 and 30's, good traction and wear.

Jason C - What body are you running on your pan car?

[clemsnfan]

I plan on getting a micro soon and want to run the Orion Big Block in it. I want to get a graphite chasis. I have the Viper body on order and am curious as to the difference of a regular chasis and the pan chasis you guys talk about. Will the Ratzas chasis work with the BB? Any other hop ups I should look for? Is the 2 speed tranny worth it? Thanks.

[AssociatedRacer]

anyone have a pic of the Ratzas chassis so i can see exactly how much room there is?

THnx

[XXXER]

Well, I e-mailed HPI yesterday, and got a reply today (Great customer service! So far....)

What I wrote:
Okay, first off, I have read the threads on your forum, and nowhere do I see a place that offers the pads to those who have purchased the one-way previous to this. I would have asked on your forum, but behold! You have disabled the registration for your BB. My qestion is: Can I still get the foam pads, and will they help me? All of my drivetrain mods are HPI brand (steel pinion, one way, steel universals). I thought it would hold up, but even with the Elite Modified, and 6 cells, I shear of the one-way diff case. It now does not help that I have the Big Block motor. I have gone through 3 of those pieces, and I only have run 5 1/2 battery packs through the car since then. This is getting ridiculous, and it may send me to another manufacturer for aftermarket Micro RS4 parts. I know that the car was not designed for this kind of abuse, but I still sheered off that piece when I added the one-way, and your Micro modified motor. This is not jsut a problem with the Team Orion motor products. Any type of insight would be appreciated.

What he replied back with:
If you did not get the one-way that is set up to use those foam strips than you will not have the room for the strips. The new One-way is machined for those foam strips. We have done a great deal of test the one-ways with our micro modified motor and have never had a problem, the one-way problem is mainly with the Big-block or the Speed 300 motors.

Wes Mott
HPI Racing Customer Service
what the heck good does that do me? He just stated what they have done, and worked with. I knew dang well that there was a new one-way, and there would not be enough room: duh. I just e-mailed him back with: "So, what does that mean, am I just SOL?" I also asked if there was any way I could send in my old one for the new one, let's see what he replies with.

On a happier note, I called Hardcore Racing today, and as before when I called them, they are very pleasant, and told him what happened. I need to send back my chassis w/ receipt (understandable) and they will most likely warranty it. I asked if removing the anodizing would void the warranty, he said it could possibly, but most likely not (phew). I also asked if this has yet been a problem, and he said that I am the first one to have any type of problem wtih the chassis.

Wow, I sure can pick em. can't I? I may as well give Team Orion a call, so that I can get my Elite Modified sent in. I think I will ask for the Peak Turbo modified, which is the same motor, but judging from the pictures, it has a plastic endbell cap, with wires coming out, making it look like it will not be prone to breaking.

-Steve