HPI Micro RS-4 Forum v1.0

[Jason C]

Blurred,

I have a Toyota GT-1 from ARM.

clemsnfan,

Yes, the BB will fit in the Ratzas chassis. SInce you will have the Viper, may I suggest the IPD 140mm WB pan chassis. It has been specially designed for 140mm and allows for the BB to work as well. Keep in mind, if you ever want to run in 150mm, you'll need a whole new chassis. The Ratzas, on the other hand, allows for adjustment between 140 and 150.

I like the alloy steering knuckles as they eliminate a potential weak spot if you hit a wall with the wheels turned. Orion makes excellent alloy knuckles. So far, there is no 2-spd tranny for the Micro (I'd love to see one if it's possible).


Teamlosiracer,

I have some pics of my pan chassis a few pages back in this thread. It's pretty roomy especially if you use micro-sized electronics.

XXXer,

I suppose a remedy to the one-way problem might be to completely make the pulley and diff housing out of alloy. Or you can ditch the Speed 300... If you ask me, 2WD really saves a lot of trouble (and rotating weight - 30 grams counting the GH diff, steel unis, and belt). Hope the Orion and HardCore problems go smoothly. I bet you're the first guy to ever tweak a Ti chassis

[clemsnfan]

I was browsing Tower Hobbies last night and saw a two speed tranny available from HPI. Maybe I am mistaken but check out part number LXM571 or H.P.I part number A285 and tell me if I'm wrong. Thanks for the info on the chasis. Here is the link......maybe.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=LXM571&FVPROFIL=++

[AssociatedRacer]

thats for the HPI MINI, not micro

[Jason C]

The Micro is already tiny enough. It would be an engineering marvel to make a 2-speed for it. Don't worry, the car is plenty fast once an Elite Mod or BB is installed - in fact, I think it is too fast for the little chassis.

[clemsnfan]

This may be a silly question but what is the difference between the mini and the micro?

[AssociatedRacer]

micro:
http://www.hpiracing.com/kits/micro-m.htm


mini:
http://www.hpiracing.com/kits/m-m.htm

[Jason C]

The Mini is supposed to be a 1/12 scale touring car, but I think it's a bit bigger. The Micro is 1/18, making it the smallest car HPI currently offers. The Minis were discontinued for a while in the past and I think HPI is re-releasing the nitro version on their "Buy-HPI" site. There was an electric version (even a Pro version too).

[clemsnfan]

You guys have been really helpful, thanks. I have a question about my radio. I have a Futuba 2PEKA -75MHz FM. My question is if a buy the Novak XXL Futuba receiver and a Futaba 75 Mhz crystal can I use the same radio for both of my cars and just not run them at the same time?

[Jason C]

Yes you can. As long as the crystals in the Rx and Tx are the same frequency, you should have no problems. You don't even need to buy new crystals - the original ones will work fine in the Futaba specific XXL.
It may be a good idea to invest in a radio with multiple model memories. I just bought a Futaba 3PJFS and I love it (but a bit overkill for the Micro :p - I mainly use it for my TC3 and Ultima RB). Now I have ABS and traction control for my Micro!

[clemsnfan]

Thanks again for the help. I have another question for you, since you have a TC3 and a micro. If you had to choose between one or the other which would you choose and why.

[XXXER]

Well, Hardcore got my chassis today, and they gave me a call. Bummer part of it is that they cannot warranty it, because I have a rather rough road, and the chassis has been scratched (Crappy for me, but understandable) what that means, is that they can give me a new one at 1/2 price of the COST (not retail) of one. So, I think that means 20 bucks or so. That is fine enough for me. I am going to talk with him tomorrow to finalize all the crap.

Tell ya how it goes

-Steve

[Jason C]

clemsnfan,

I'd go with my Micro simply because I have more fun with it and I can drive it in the house.

XXXer,

That's not bad considering it would cost you about $60 (or more) to buy a new one at retail. It's a good thing you run a Ti chassis rather than a carbon fiber. I can imagine what might have happened to a CF chassis if you crashed hard enough to tweak a Ti chassis...

[ultrapc40]

i am wondering if any one has try to run their micro with a 9 volt battery, i just got a big block and a 7.2 pack. I want to find out how fast the micro can go:D.

[Cube]

If you wired 2-3 9v batts in parallel, then you would probably get some good run times and power:)

[clemsnfan]

Will the LRP Micro ESC work with the Orion BB motor?

[Jason C]

The Micro Quantum should work just fine. I'm not sure how much they cost in your area, but where I live, the Micro Quantum costs more than a regular Quantum Reverse. I'd just go get a Quantum Reverse (the one for 1/10 cars) and just replace the wires with 18 ga ones.

[clemsnfan]

Thanks for your help, now I just have to wait for the thing to get here....

[tHe cOokIe]

how does everyone like their micro? how many times have u gotten board of it? how much faster does it go with the modified motor? the team orion?

[ultrapc40]

tHe cOokIe

The micro is great, you can play around the house, or if you have a backyard, you can have some friends over and make a track on your own. I just upgrade the stock motor to the big block, and i am running a 7.2, i would say the speed almost triple.

[tHe cOokIe]

see, i want one, my friends brother has one, my friend is getting a lot of money so he will buy one and both of our homes have hardwood floors.

[tHe cOokIe]

i cant wait!!

[ultrapc40]

I am having problem with the grip, i want to know if any one has try any set up where they have better grip. I am still using the stock tires, but planning to get some new ones, what should i get?

"You are not afraid of dying in a crash, but you are afraid of speed bumps and parking lot on-ramps."

[tHe cOokIe]

what do u guys do when u are bored of ur micro?

[ultrapc40]

tHe cOokIe
"what do u guys do when u are bored of ur micro? "




I go back to my V one RR. i didn't get bored of the micro, like other electric rc, there is just too many different setting to mess with, and the hop up parts are not that expansive.

[tHe cOokIe]

well i just figured it out
if i get bored after mastering it 4wd, i will master it 2wd.

here is what i want to do.

paint is like a police car and find decals. maybe get a three channel radio to ocntrol the lights on command and chase my other firends micro's around.

[Jason C]

ultrapc40,

Try foam tires for max grip. Trinity will be releasing some mounted & trued Micro foams this month or you can mount them yourself if you buy donuts from Hypertech Racing. If you want to stick with rubber, try HPI's optional soft tires or the Dynamite 25 compound tires. I recommend you run a slightly firmer compound in front to prevent oversteer - especially on carpet.

[tHe cOokIe]

body q:

what would be the best looking car painted as nypd or lapd?

[Vostok 7]

I think the Skyline or M3 bodies would look good painted in a LAPD or NYPD scheme.

Vostok 7

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

:( HPI forum is down...
my micro is down too...
my truck is down also...

what's next? hehe:D

you kind are the bests doggies? the GH rebuildable one looks cool but it's kinda expensive

[4wdmt]

Guys, does anyone of you got a copy of the August issue of rc car action? HPI micro is car of the year. Isn`t that great or what? I own a bone stock nissan skyline micro rs4, and IMO - it meets the standard / criteria of being the car of the year. Especially the FUN factor of driving one.

[XXXER]

Good news! I have found the solution to my diff carrier nightmares! After my current one lost its "fingers" I decided I was not goign to buy another one of those stupid things again. I took my X-Acto knife, and cut the remants off, so it was smooth. Next, I took some VERY thin music wire, wtih the appropriately sized drill bit (something in they #75-80 region). Drilled two small holes all the way through the case, into the opening for the one-way (take this out when doing, duh). put the music wire in the hole, held in by a very small amount if thin CA. Cut to appropriate size. I had finished it, so I go to install the pull, but no luck, I drilled the holes too far from the center, so it would not fit in the bearings---DANGIT! I grabbed a file, and went to work. I got it working so it would go on smoothly. I installed it in my car, charged my pack, and drove my car.
SUCCESS! I drove the car harder that I ever have with the Big Block (Throttlewise). I did cyclone donuts, hard launches from a standstill. and everything else I could think of, and it holds up! 3 battery packs later, and it is still running strong. This mod was fairly easy to do, and if you need to, I am sure you could do it too. If you need pictures, I could take some for you.

Happy Micro-ing!

-Steve

[badhoopty]

thanks up front for any replies.

anyway, i've been lookin at micros for about 3 weeks now and am gonna buy one, even tho i have too many darn rcs already.

my question:

is every kit the same? i know some are 140mm and others are 150mm depending on the body used, but besides the body, is the chassis the same in all kits? i've also seen some on ebay that say rs4 micro racer, i cant find a racer version so i'd suspect its just that ebayer slappin that on for juice.

i'll for sure be hoppin it up, i cant leave any kit stock, so which kit is the widest and longest or just the best one to start with to hop up. i want something crazy fast while being relatively simple as far as electrics and batteries go.

so... are all micro kits and rtrs using the same chassis?

[XXXER]

Yes they are, as you noted, the only difference is the length, and width of the wheelbase. the longest, and widest would be the Corvette. The Viper is just barely wider (you use these little spacer deallies) and i did not remember seeing them suggest use wtih the spacers on the Vette, though there is enough room you could probably do it.

[badhoopty]

thanks xxxer

[Jason C]

You'd be surprised at how much money you can spend on one little car...:rolleyes:

[ultrapc40]

so true

[super_maxx]

whats the best esc for the micro

thanks

*SM*

[Jason C]

If racing, go with the IPD Race-20 ESC. It is very small and light.

http://www.micrors4racer.com/ipd.htm


For anything else short of serious racing, I suggest the LRP Quantum Reverse (either regular reverse for 1/10 cars or Micro Quantum). Smaller and lighter than most "standard" ESCs, it fits great on the Micro.

[4wdmt]

Guys,
Pls. help, I want to hop up my stock micro, but as of now the only upgrade that I did was put a 5 cell batt pack. Any recommended hop ups that will have a significant effect on a stock micro. Upgrades that you can actually see the difference once you install it in - in terms of driveability and performance of the unit. Actual experience on a certain hop ups will be highly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

[Jason C]

For handling improvements, try a pan chassis. It lowers CG a lot and there is a noticeable difference from stock. If you run 140mm and plan to stick with it, go with the IPD chassis (see my link above). I have the Ratzas pan chassis (I run 150mm) and I like it a lot. An upper deck is not absolutely necessary and since the Micro depends on chassis flex for suspension, you may find it having better grip without it.

In the tranny department, a ball diff is ideal. I run the HPI one and have yet to have any problems. GH offers a front ball diff, but it is a bit rough in stock form, but once it is polished a bit, (see my post about polishing the thrust plates a number of pages back) it is very smooth.
A one-way is good for wide, sweeping tracks, but it can be hard on drivetrain parts.

If you are a speed freak, you will like the Speed 300 (or Orion Big Block) motor. Both Ratzas and IPD chassis will accomodate the motor. This hop-up probably is most noticeable for the least cost, but driving is more of a handful with such speed in a little car. I use the Orion Elite Mod and it is an incredibly smooth motor. It's a bit pricey, but well worth the money.

If significant effect means being able to drive away after a crash, then try some alloy steering knuckles. They won't make a huge performance increase, but at least you can drive with some confidence knowing you have eliminated a potential weak spot in the Micro's suspension. I use Orion knuckles - they are alloy versions of the stock plastic ones.
Also, GH's adjustable steering slider allows you to add some toe in/out to your preference.

Finally, one thing you can do is to remove your front drivetrain parts to reduce rotating weight.

Feel free to PM me if you want more detailed info.

[Got Speed]

I finnaly got a micro. It is used with no instructions so I am having some problems. Most of these questions are pretty stupid probably but I have no idea.

1-How can I get the main wheels off the inner wheels?(I put them on and now I can't get them off)

2-Is the upper deck the standard upper deck in the pic?

3-Is that the speed 300 motor in the pic?

4- How do I mount the servo arm to the steering arm?

5- I found that nikko battery pack in my closet. Will it work since it is 4 cells?

6- How do I mount the rechargeable battery?

7- Is there any kind of belt tentioner(sp) it is supposed to have?

8- Are those connectors in the pic called bullet connectors?

9-Is there anything else missing other than the servo, esc, reciever, battery, tires, and front wheels?

I am sorry for all the stupid questions but I have never had, driven, or hardly seen a touring car before.

[Got Speed]

Oh and does it need a spoiler?

Here is the pic:

[Jason C]

Got Speed,

1. You need to pull the wheels off the inner wheel. Try using a towel to grasp the wheel and give it a squeeze when pulling. It takes a bit of effort, but should come off (unless the previous owner glued them on...)

2. The upper deck is stock, but has a piece cut off on the left side. Check HPI's site to see the stock upper deck.

3. Yes, it appears so.

4. The servo arm nub fits into the oval hole on the steering slider and is secured in place by a flanged washer and screw.

5. The Nikko pack should work fine as long as you can connect it.

6. Since you don't have the optional battery mount, either velcro or servo tape will work well.

7. There is no belt tensioner included in the kit and one is really not necessary as more tension will increase drivetrain drag.

8. Yes, they are bullet connectors. I'd forego using motor connectors and just hardwire. It neatens up the chassis and reduces electrical resistance.

9. The front foam bumper is missing as is a body and antenna tube. The kit motor is missing, but that is made up for with the 300 motor.
A spoiler or wing is really not necessary for such a little car - it serves more as eye candy than providing actual downforce.

[Got Speed]

Does anyone have a 140mm body or a 150mm body and belt or a 150mm belt to sell or trade to me?

[Got Speed]

Will having the part of the upper deck cut off hurt anything or make things more difficult?

Am I supposed to put a peice of velcro under the upper deck and on the battery? Or wrap it around? If I am to wrap it around how will I get it around the belt?

Sorry for all the questions:o

[ultrapc40]

got speed

i have simliar battery pack, i just velcro the bottom of upperdeck, and the battery back, if you use heavy duty velcro, it should hold.

[Got Speed]

Thanks alot.

My last question for now:o :confused:

I have 10 untabbed sanyo 1.2v AAs. Can I make two 5 cell packs with them?

[4wdmt]

thank you.

[Jason C]

Got Speed,

The upper deck won't affect your car adversely, but the original deck had slots and holes for mounting the battery holder.

You should be able to make 2 five cell packs with no problem.


4wdmt,

No problem.

[Got Speed]

Jason C-Thanks for ALL the help

This micro is going to be my dad's and I am going to buy a kit in two months to race with him. :D I am taking it to redmond hobbies to race when I go to washington next sunday. So if any micro'ers go to that track I'd like to meet you. I found out today that in a month and a half there will be a micro track in town for me.:)

This thing looks like it will be so much fun on my new hardwood floors!:cool:

What hop ups will make the most difference for stock racing?

[t.c.s.s.s.s.m.]

I also just found out that there are two tracks near my house and one near my friends house. We are both considering getting micros and he wants to get the rx-7 and paint it like the one in the movie THE FAST AND THE FURIOUS. We both also have hard wood floors but we could make a lot bigger track in his house. That brings me to my questions.

What body besides the rx-7 matches a body in the movie listed above or would look goo painted as one because we want to have rice rockets when we race?(no offence to anyone/ I am think the skyline painted as the jetta in the movie)

Would it be difficult or a waste of time to custom fit a chassis, stock one in case we mess up, to fit normal sized motors and if we did would there be any consequences?

Regarding the question above, has anyone done it, know how to do it, or does it affect the performnce a lot?

Like "got speed" asked, what hop ups would help perfomance a lot but not put a dent in my wallet?

What battery backs help in long runs but dont sacrafice in performance? How much?

What esc would be suitible for the micro but isnt all out expensive? How much?

Now I am done. Thanx in advance for the help.

[Got Speed]

t.c.s.s.s.s.m- I think the skyline and the RX-7 would look good painted like the cars on the fast and the furious too.

I think Jason C tried to put a normal stock motor in his micro. BTW did you finish it? If so did it work well?

Not sure about the ESC though because this is my first electric.



What is the name for the yellow plug that comes off the motor?

To make the battery pack would I lay a peice of aluminum foil or something like that across the batterys and solder it directly to the ends?

[t.c.s.s.s.s.m.]

Right now I am in the middle of the movie. Thanks for the suggestion got speed. I think that the yellow car driven by one of Torreto's buddies is a skyline. It has the same lights and everything. I am looking into a normal motor cause I am sure that we will drag, 3 of us if me and my friend get one, and go to races. When we race at eachother's houses, we already plan to put money up. Not a lot, maybe like 10 every drag and 10 for a race, whoever places the highest at a club race. I am going to need al the torque I can get. I am off to watch the rest of the movie. I have already seen it like 10 times since we got the dvd.
Ill report back when I am finished.

Also... does anyone have pics of their micro civic that they can post? It looks bland in the hpi photos but I might consider it if it has possibilities. Also, how much does the micro lighting under and in the car cost?

[Jason C]

It was Mason C who modified his Micro to fit a 540 motor in it. I'm not that much of a speed freak... I run an Orion Elite Mod and it goes plenty fast for me.
If you want a rice rocket, don't forget the Civic. HPI is also offering eye-candy parts (side mirrors, exhaust tips, metal disc rotors, LED light sets, etc.).

As for your ESC and hop-up queastions, please read my post to 4wdmt back in page 22. The Quantums are a bit expensive, but they are probably the best in my opinion. The Futaba MC230CR is also good (about $40-$50), but a bit chunkier.

Ofna Brick packs offer long run times and small size. HPI, Orion, and Hot Bodies offer high capacity packs for the Micro. HB even offers a special charger for their packs. I use 5 AAA cells to save weight and space so I make my own packs.

Got Speed,

for making your own packs, I recommend you create your own battery bars by hammering flat a section of solid copper wire flat(the kind used in home electrical wiring). I used 16 gauge wire, pounded it flat (about 1.5 - 2mm thin) and drilled small holes at each end. The holes are needed to help the solder flow and provide a good joint.
Also, you can just cut a small section of 14 or 16 gauge RC wire to act as a battery bar. For added strength, I like to apply a thin bead of Shoe Goo between the cells to ease the strain on the solder joints. Finish by shrink wrapping the finished pack being sure to completely cover the exposed battery ends to prevent shorts.


I have no idea what the proper name is for the yellow motor plugs. Perhaps they're called "yellow motor plugs"??

[t.c.s.s.s.s.m.]

OK, after some interuptions, I have finished the movie. Very nice paint jobs. Some were unidentiful but I liked colors. I see a skyline with a white or orangish color. Oh wait, maybe red but that it what my friend wants to run on his rx7. I dont really like the civic and I do like the skyline. I like it bright yellow. any other suggestions with the skyline would be great. The only colors I dont want to use are blue or red because they are taken.

Here is an idea I thought of. We film our drags and post them on the forum along with the recks. But before we show you the race, you get to vote who willl win a week or two in advance based on what set ups we are running. I dont know if that sounds stupid though, so can anyone tell me? Please dont just say its stupid, tell me why and what I can do to improve it?(realistically)

[t.c.s.s.s.s.m.]

Also exaust tips? Link please?

[Nitro dog]

are the rtr micro's any good? and what one should i get?(mini z or micro)

[Got Speed]

Both are cool but I like the micro more than the mini z because it is like a miniturized touring car without a few of the touring car features whereas a mini z is redisigned without alot of the features of a touring car. The micro cost a little more but very close to the mini z. The micro has 4wd, you can use standard electronics instead of the kyosho only esc, micro servo and micro reciever, unpainted lexan bodies instead of prepainted hard bodys, and I don't like how almost everything on the mini is plastic. Some of those are just my opinion but it depends if you are just going to run indoors you should get a mini z if you don't have much room. But if you have plenty of room or have a place to race I would get the micro. :)

[Nitro dog]

Ya i am getting a micro but before i order what should i get a rtr or a kit?

[Got Speed]

The kit is nice because by putting it together you know exactly how it works if something were to break you would know exactly how to fix it.

If you already have radio gear then you should probably get the kit.

If this is your first RC then a RTR might be nice because it will be cheaper than buying all the gear seperatly but you will get bottom of the line radio gear too.

If you don't have electronics already and you have the money get a good radio and esc to go with a kit.

[Nitro dog]

hmmmmm now im leaning toward the kit but all together how much would it cost with a good radio and stuff?

[Got Speed]

:eek: sorry double post:eek:

I just have to tighty up my wires! lol

[Got Speed]

WOOHOO I got my stuff in the mail for my micro. I am riving it right now. It's sooo cool!:D :cool:

Let's see

micro kit- $80
good reversable or non reversable esc- $50
XR2 radio- $100
___________________
$230

Or you could get a standard fm radio for $75 and make it $205
Or with a standard AM radio for $40 it could be $190

It just depends what you want with it.

But I think it is a little more rewarding knowing you built the car to start with and you will know how it goes together very well.

The one I have right now(soon to be my dad's) has my XR-3 radio and a spike esc.

Soon I will be getting one for me and I will have a novak tempest esc and the XR3.

[Nitro dog]

well im gonna go with the kit thnx for the help......
also are miniz any good (looking for my bros b-day pres)

[Got Speed]

Yes they are good too. But if you want to race with him it would probably be a good idea to get another micro because it wouldn't be very fair. lol:p

[Got Speed]

Does anyone know what the battery plug on the esc is called?

Will the spike esc run right off 4 cells? That is how I am running it right now but it calls for 5 cells.

Will 16 gauge wire be sufficient for the batt pack I am making?

[Nitro dog]

why would it be unfair is the micro faser

[Got Speed]

It's a little faster out of the box and has the potential to go faster. It's also bigger and imo handles better.

If you want to race to together it's better to do mini zs or micros both instead of one of each.

[Vostok 7]

Originally posted by Nitro dog
why would it be unfair is the micro faser

It's up to debate if the MiniZ is better than the Micro or vise versa.

The Micro and the MiniZ are like two different things. The Micro is closer to a full 1/10 RC car than the MiniZ is (which is closer to say, the Tyco Canned Heat IMO). The Micro can accept 1/10 radio equipment and etc. so therefore IMO, is much better (and much much faster) than the MiniZ.

Also, the Micro has belt-driven 4wd so it's alot more fun to drive.

Vostok 7

[Got Speed]

Like Vostok 7 said they are both cool but IMO the micro is alot better. More surfaces you can run it on too.

[Vostok 7]

Yeah, excep for when there's alot of dust and crap on the ground and you have to peel it off your axles :D

Vostok 7

[Nitro dog]

gusse i have to get two micros......... if any one has a rtr one for sale let me know Pballman2002@cs.com

[The One]

I just ordered a micro rs4, duratrax spike esc, and an airtronics blazer sport radio system. Will they work together? :confused:

[Got Speed]

Yes they will work together. The esc has a universal plug.

[Jason C]

Got a new digicam so I thought I'd try it out...

My GT-1 Micro:

[Jason C]

2 of 3:

[Jason C]

Last one:

[Got Speed]

Nice body!:)

Does anyone have any extra bodys they don't need that they would be willing to sell? If so lmk.

[The One]

On the tower hobbies tech info page ts says the spike esc is for "stock 27 turn motors ONLY". Are they just sayin' that so newbies wont use a less than 27 turn motor?

Please reply, I don't have much time to change my order.

[Got Speed]

The One-Ya they say that just to make sure you know not to get less than a 27turn motor.

[rcruv]

Originally posted by sprintr
anybody try the Team Orion flash ESC for the Micro? How does it work? Is it very smooth?

I have Team Orino flash forward only ESC and it runs great so far.
This one even have a big capacitor.
Funny thing is I can't get any info, picture of it on any site not even on HPI.

Guess it's just come out.
I love it. Very smooth. :)

[The One]

Is it on www.towerhobbies.com (http://www.towerhobbies.com)?
They have specs for all of their products.

[rcruv]

Originally posted by The One
Is it on www.towerhobbies.com (http://www.towerhobbies.com)?
They have specs for all of their products.

They only have flash reversible listed.
I don't know what they have changed though.

[Got Speed]

I don't know but towerhobbies should have both the non rev and the reverseable. Does anyone have a spy esc? Im not looking to buy one but Im just curious if they are any good.

[metal man]

who make the beat chaise for the micro?

[rcruv]

Originally posted by metal man
who make the beat chaise for the micro?

Try it here.

www.teamepic.net

[Jason C]

That is a very nice chassis - even has room for a transponder.

Got Speed,

I'm sure the SPY will be an excellent ESC. I have had good experience with Novak ESCs in the past and I think the SPY will be no different.

I'm ordering a Mini-Q car (www.mini-q.com) and hopefully the SPY will fit.

[InspGadgt]

Wow that Epic EXO chassis looks sweet...I just ordered 2, one for a buddy and one for me. What's this Novak Spy? Never heard of it...

[rcruv]

Originally posted by InspGadgt
Wow that Epic EXO chassis looks sweet...I just ordered 2, one for a buddy and one for me. What's this Novak Spy? Never heard of it...

Spy is Novak's new ESC for micro cars.

I'm building my EXO chassis right now. :D

I'll post some pics once I'm done.

[InspGadgt]

Can't wait till mine comes in...also ordered front and rear ball diffs for it...

I think i'm gonna make a modified battery strap to allow me to mount the top 2 cells in the center then the reciever like the pic with the transponder setup.

[smokinoutlaw]

testing
:cool:

[rcruv]

Wow, cool color! :D

[smokinoutlaw]

ty, not bad for rattle cans hay, it was one of my first,

[InspGadgt]

Anyone know of 1 piece plastic or delrin rims for the Micro? I don't want to get aluminium ones hammered up with the guys I drive with...LOL

[Jason C]

I think GPM makes delrin rims.


Anyone see the new Ratzas chassis?

http://www.ratzas.net/ratzas_performance_rc_024.htm

It's $90, though...

:(

[MikeR]

That's what so nice about the TeamEpic.net chassis.... $38.95!

[Jason C]

Too bad I already have the Ratzas pan chassis (1st generation). I like the Ratzas chassis better as I usually run RWD (no problem with the belt skipping if the rear flexes too much). If only I could get the rear pod, I'm sure I could modify the pan chassis to work with it.

[InspGadgt]

Ok my GH ball diffs just arrived, still waiting on my epic chassis. The diff's quality is pretty good overall but the diff rings really need polishing...so...does anyone know how the GH front diff comes apart? The instructions only say to regrease it through the center hole.

[Jason C]

InspGadgt,

I opened up my ball diff and polished the plates for a much smoother diff. Here's what I did:

First, I wrapped both halves of the diff in masking tape to prevent damage to the case and I used 2 large pliers the grab the halves. By applying a twisting and pulling motion, the glue seal broke and the halves twisted apart revealing the innards.

Next, I cleaned everything out with a good blast of motor spray taking extra care to remember how it all came apart. The longer half of the case which contains the caged balls will require a bit of force to push out the thrust plate and cage. I simply used the steel outdrive and rotated it so that it sat on the set screw in the thrust plate and tapped out the innards with a hammer (do it gently!!).

I noticed the thrust plates have identical sides so one should be able to double the lifespan of the diff by simply flipping over the plates to expose fresh steel once they are worn out. I used 400 grit sandpaper and sanded the plates in a figure-8 with a few drops of nitro after-run oil to carry away debris. After the plate surface was ground smooth, I clamped it in my vise and buffed it with my Dremel to a mirror finish.

With both plates finished, I reassembled the diff using Associated's stealth tranny lube. Although the diff comes from the factory with a glue seal, the diff holds together nicely with just a press fit. I used padded clamps to squeeze the diff halves back together and it came out very smooth. Just remember to give the diff a little break-in period to make sure everything seats itself and you are ready to race!


This was from page 14 of this thread when I first opened it up.

[InspGadgt]

Cool thanks...That's what i thought but didn't want to break anything...I tried the pliers and tape thing and just couldn't get the halve to budge so before I really messed something up I posted here. darn pliers got through the tape though and buggered up the annodizing a little bit :( Polished out the rear one last night...took forever to sand down the diff rings. They looked like the moon's face all pocked all over the place. I just need a thrust bearing now for the wheel as the diff didn't come with one.

[Jason C]

Yeah, I scuffed up my diff case a bit, too. But it's only appearances. What rear diff did you buy? I got the HPI one and it was perfect out of the bag.

[speedydave]

My micro's turning fine to the left, but pushes WAY too much to the right. It started this after I changed belts from the belt for 140 mm to the belt for 150mm...any ideas as to what could be causing this?

[Jason C]

How's your diff? Could it be binding on one side? Is it tightened too much? How about the front? If you still use the stock diff, check to see if it spins freely.

[InspGadgt]

Since I went with the GH diff for the front I also went with the GH diff for the back. The back diff is much better built and is adjustable. The pully and diff gear are supported by 2 bearings instead of 1 like most of the others so there is NO wobble whatsoever in the diff. The 2nd bearing is in the flange for the pulley. I only found 2 flaws that bug me about the GH rear diff. 1st the diff rings are pitted badly so it feels gritty just like the front. and 2nd it doesn't come with the thrust bearing that goes in the wheel. Since my car was still all stock I still have the plastic bushing and my LHS is currently out of stock of that bearing. Well some sanding and polishing took care of the diff ring problem now I just need the bearing to come in. I'll be checking at another LHS next week to see if they have it in stock. As for the front I have not yet taken mine apart but I've allready noticed a problem. The drive cups are just a hair too wide so the universals fit in really tight. This binds both the suspension and the steering. I'm happy someone is making a ball diff for the front as I really feel that a 1 way will only hurt these cars performance but the execution of this one leaves a bit to be desired. However for $15 I can't complain too much. But I could live with these defects better had they made the diff rebuildable...in that case it would be much easier for me to devote the time to fix the problems.

[InspGadgt]

Ok...I've recieved my chassis finally so here's a short review and my thoughts...

First Impression: OMG!!! This chassis is beautiful!!! The CNC work on this chassis is incredible. I havn't seen a chassis milled out at all let alone this good since DA Graphite was making pan car chassis. The cuts on this chassis are among the cleanest I've ever seen. Everyone at my LHS was drooling when I brought it by for people to see.

Assembly: Well so far I've only test fit built the car to see what it looks like and how it goes together. I still have to take it apart and file the battery slot edges and CA and sand the edges of the graphite. So far everything has fit perfectly with 1 exception, the aluminium brace that the T plate bolts to. The holes are drilled just slightly off which ends up mounting the rear pod just a little bit crooked. I e-mailed Team Epic today about the problem and expect to hear from them soon. They have always been very prompt at returning my e-mails and I expect this to be no different.

Suggestions/Ideas: This is still the best chassis I've seen out there yet. But there's a couple things I'd like to change just based off of my personal experience. 1) Chassis flex: Even though it's graphite there still is some chassis flex. A simple fix would be a thin, narrow upper deck that connects the rear to the front. Yes this will raise the CG slightly but I think the benefits will outweight it. 2) Battery strap system: Graphite hold down is cool but using a single long screw is low tech and looks it. An aluminium standoff would look much more professional. Either that or replace the entire graphite strap with an o-ring setup found more commonly in 1/12th scale 4 cell cars. 3) Rear body mounting: Well since this moves the rear body mounts back some why not be more radical? The stock system even with the graphite aftermarket parts just has too much flex for my taste. Why not move the rear body mounts to a graphite cross piece in front of the rear suspension like that of the RC12L3. A small graphite protrusion could properly place the rear shock mount. But mounting like this would leave the motor area much more open and much easier to do maintenance on the motor.

Overall: The changes I propose are very minor and not needed but I feel would make a worthwhile difference. Overall this chassis is awesome (before running) and based off of what I've seen so far I highly reccomend it. I hope to have the car running in another week pending the replacement part, new servo, and new batteries (my old ones don't fit). It should see it's first race 2 weeks from today so I'll be able to give you a track report then.

[Jason C]

Yes, I forgot the drivecup problem. I just used a drill bit to deepen the cup a bit and that solved the problem. A few mm's deeper does the trick - just make sure you drill it center.

[InspGadgt]

I don't have a drill press or drill bits good enough to do that. I was planning on using my dremel to file the inside end a little short and extend the flatspot so that the cups sit in just a little bit deeper.

[Jason C]

I used a Ti drill bit and that made drilling a snap - dug right into the steel cup. I didn't use a drill press, just a 8.4V cordless drill. I clamped the cups in a padded vise and carefully drilled the cups as center as I could. I suppose your method may be even better than what I did as it leaves the cups unchanged.

[InspGadgt]

Well I finally got mine apart. Word of advice to anyone trying to take it apart...just soak it for awhile in laquor thinner. This will disolve the glue and it comes right apart. And you won't bugger up the houseing with pliers like I did. However once the glue is all off then the fit is loose so you'll have to reglue it when your done. I plan on using contact cement. The drive cups sit much deeper in the diff halves alone than the do with the diff assembled. Once the diff is assembled then they bottom out against the metal ball holder for the diff. I think this is why the drive cups come out too wide. I will be grinding down the ends of mine so that when they seat they no longer rub the ball race. This too will probably help a lot in making the diff smoother. I noticed my friend's one slips bad and mine felt much too loose for my taste so I will probably add in a couple washers to give it a little more tension. More news to follow...

[InspGadgt]

Well shortening the drive cup shafts worked! Once I had the diff disassembled I inserted the drive cups into the diff halves. With a Xacto knifie I scored a line on the shaft to mark how much excess was sticking out. With my dremel I shortened the shaft right up to that line. Now the diff fits in place perfectly and there is no more binding on the universal dog bones. Initially I used Traxxas rear axle shims to add some tension to the diff but when I reassembled it it felt too tight so I removed them. This week I will be stopping by the LHS to find some thinner shims to use and rebuild the diff once more.

[junk4calata]

Personal links to your auction Ebay, and posting any B/S/T iteams in forums other than the B/S/T forum are not allowed.

[Jason C]

Glad to hear the diff is working well for you! I never had a problem with the halves being loose after I took my diff apart. My halves hold together quite well without glue. I do wish GH made the halves threaded rather than gluing them together...

How tight or lose is the front diff action compared to your rear diff? Mine is pretty stiff so on slippery surfaces, the front is pretty much like a solid axle, but it works just fine when on carpet.

[InspGadgt]

Mine feels like there is a significant amount of slip in it. It's quite easy to hold the drive cups and turn the pulley without the cups moving. I noticed in the last race the guy who was running the front ball diff had a heck of a lot of slip too...car wouldn't go anywhere as both front and rear were slipping. I'm just a little leery of that happening to me too when I run mine.

[andy51289]

If anyon needs a new body, check this out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1749520517&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=0&indexURL=0&rd=1

[andy51289]

If anyon needs a new body, check this out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1749520517&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=0&indexURL=0&rd=1

[Got Speed]

andy-Did you paint that?

I'm thinking of a new chassis but I can't really decide.

Is the ARM chassis very good?

I like the epic but is it overpriced? What's different between the Ratzas, ARM and Epic?

[speedydave]

Originally posted by Jason C
How's your diff? Could it be binding on one side? Is it tightened too much? How about the front? If you still use the stock diff, check to see if it spins freely.

Yup..the right front's binding...why didn't I think of that? Well, I've been wanting to modify my Micro...I guess once I have some extra money lying around, I'll get the stuff I wanted(one of the Orion motors, front one-way, rear ball diff, front steel universals, and maybe a new chassis). Thanks!

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by Got Speed
andy-Did you paint that?

I'm thinking of a new chassis but I can't really decide.

Is the ARM chassis very good?

I like the epic but is it overpriced? What's different between the Ratzas, ARM and Epic?

The Team Epic is very reasonably priced at $38
I've not heard of the ARM. Rataz actually makes several different chassis styles the most popular being their "pan" style chassis which is a wide flat chassis that allows you to mount all of your electronics and batteries on the lower chassis plate instead of the upper. The Epic is like that too. The 2 main differences between the Epic and the Rataz pan chassis is the battery configuration of the Epic allows everything to be mounted closer to the centerline of the chassis thus reducing the roll center. Also the Epic uses a separate piece to mount the rear pod to the chassis called a T-plate. Because of this you can better tune your car by using different T-plates. The kit comes with 1 soft fiberglass one for low bite tracks and a graphite one for high bite tracks. Now both of these are 150 wheelbase chassis. Rataz also has a new chassis out which uses a pivot ball for the rear suspension giving you much better twisting movement of the rear pod. IPD also has a great pan style chassis out similar to these two but that chassis is in 140mm wheelbase only.

[Got Speed]

Is the IPD like the ratzas or epic? Do you know there web address?

The ARM chassis is here at www.americanracingmodels.com .

Do you think the epic is more worth the money than the pan ratzas? Not that new conversion kit though.

[InspGadgt]

Oh ok now I know what chassis your talking about. A few guys here have the ARM chassis but it still has the stock rear suspension style which just doesn't work very well.

The IPD is more like the Rataz than the Epic as both the Rataz and the IPD used 1 piece for both the chassis and the suspension which means that your limited to the material used in the chassis. The Epic uses a seperate T-plate for the rear suspension which makes it more tuneable to track conditions. Yes I think the Epic is well worth the money based on it's design alone. I have not yet ran mine but I can tell just during the assembly that it is going to work well. As a matter of fact once people at my LHS saw mine I had immediate requests to bring in more. So far I've brought in 4 because that's all I could afford to at the time but there were more people who wanted one.

My replacement rear suspension mount came in friday. I tested the fit and was pleased to see that now the rear end is straight so I have started assembling my chassis. I have the chassis edges all sanded and CA'd now and am working on getting the GH ball diffs to be smoother. Also I'm still waiting for my LHS to get in a servo and some batteries for me.

[Got Speed]

Well I just ordered my Team Epic chassis and a speed 300 motor plate for my motor. With the epic chassis you can use a standard servo can't you? What do you have to do to the chassis before installing the it?

[InspGadgt]

The chassis is designed for the Hitec 81MG servo. There is a portion milled out of the chassis to fit that specific servo. Because the servo stands on end a standard servo may not work because it will be too tall and hit the body...or it will throw off the steering link geometry because the servo saver will be too high above the chassis. I imagine you could make mounts for a standard servo mounting horizontal and above the chassis but that would throw off the balance of the chassis.

[Got Speed]

Is there any kind of maintanence I need to do on the stock motor or speed 300?

Can I just solder the same capacitors off the stock motor on to the speed 300?

[InspGadgt]

Pretty much the same maintenance as any other electric motor. Spray it out once in awhile with a motor spray and re-oil the bushings. I havn't bought a big block or speed 300 motor so I don't know about the capacitors but I see no reason why soldering on capacitors would work any differently then the litle PC board people use on them.

[cavfan2]

Well I just got some goodies from speedster racing. Its not all the way back together, but its got front and rear GH ball diffs, the GH adjustable steering rack, Orion big block and the Ratzas chassis set. To run it its got a GM v4r, Novak xxl, Jr 331 servo, Orion 5 and 6 cell packs and a Jr xr3. To top it all off, either the C5-R body or the Toyota GT-1 body from American Racing Models, which I have to paint yet.

[Got Speed]

Well I finnaly got the motor mount for my speed 300 motor. BUT! the motor won't fit with the with the rear hub(axel carrier, motor pod, whatever it's called) The motor covers part of the opening for the motor pod or whatever it's called.:rolleyes: Has anyone else had this trouble? What should I do?:confused:

[InspGadgt]

Well with the Big Block motor and motor plate you have to grind some of the rear axle housing to make the motor fit...I'd assume the same would be true of the speed 300 as they are the same motor.

[CANNONBALL75]

does any 1 know how 2 setup the micro rs4 4 drifting ? if so please help:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[Got Speed]

Youre talking about sliding it through the corners?

[Got Speed]

I just got my big block installed and I am pretty dissapointed with it. I am running 4 cells but still it is about as slow as the stock only more power. How much difference wil the 6 cells make? Is it supposed to make a buzzing/clicking sound?

Thanks

[ultrapc40]

Got Speed

I use to run a 4 cell on my big block, and after switching to a 7.2 pack, the Micro just took off. If you want speed, get teh 7.2, and make sure you get steel dogbones infront, because after the upgrade, they will snap like twigs.

you shouldn't get a clicking sound, the only thing i can think of is that you might not tighten the set screw on the motor right. Try to take it out and aline it again.

I am not too sure for the buzzing thou, i am using a super rooster, and only have motor noise, but not too loud of a buzzing.

hop that helps

[ultrapc40]

Ok i am running a super rooster on my micro, after looking at it for a while it just doesn't look right its too BIG, does any one have a suggestion on ESC, i am running big block, and a 7.2 pack.

[Got Speed]

It's not seperate sounds only a cliking/buzzing. Not real loud but louder than stock. I think Im going to switch to the elite mod. I am racing so do you think this would be a wise choice?

[ultrapc40]

Got Speed

the elite mod runs much smoother then the big block, so it might be a better choice if you are racing, but if you want pure speed the big block

[AssociatedRacer]

any body running the WRX body?

[Got Speed]

ive got a deal already for a trade for an elite mod.

BTW the EXO chassis is sweet!

[TEM]

I'm wondering if anyone could tell me what are the minimal amount of modifications you need to make to a micro to make it as fast as a 10th scale stock TC....

[Nofri]

Damn these are awesome micro cars! :cool:

Please, please, post more pictures :)

I'm thinking to get a Micro Corvette C5R (or an Viper) but i have af few questions.
Does a Standard 8channel receiver from Futabe plus a Carson Touchdown 16T fit in the Micro RS4?

[Jason C]

TEM,

I think 10 cells and a speed 300 should do the trick. Be aware, however, that this will make your Micro a handful to drive and will put a lot of stress on drivetrain parts. You can probably get away with using the stock chassis and build a 10-12 cell pack out of AAAs. A BMW body (or something else with a taller profile) may be needed to accomodate the pack and electronics. Also, a front ball diff and aly universals may be a good idea as I'm certain the stock parts will probably detonate on the first pull of the trigger :rolleyes: .

Good luck with it. Clock it if you can and let us know how fast it goes.


Nofri,

An 8-channel Rx? Well, any receiver will fit (unless it's one of those pager-sized ones from the early 80's), but 8-channels is way overkill. The best would be to use a micro-sized receiver to save weight and space. The Novak XXL receivers are excellent.

I'm not familiar with the Carson Touchdown motor, but the Micro can accept motors ranging from 180-300 size without needing much modification. There was a guy here a while back who attampted to put a 540 size motor on his Micro, but I haven't heard from him for a while.


Teamlosiracer,

There's a WRX body available? I've been wanting one ever since the Micro was released (I'm a big fan of Subaru rally team), but HPI was dragging their butts to make one. Instead, they released the Trueno. I also like the Trueno (due to Initial D), but I prefer the WRX (or 22b STI) much better.

[RcLaB1]

hello comments?

i have a ARM pan chassis

4cells on the right side and 3 on the left side.
i use 2/3 AA batteries and my
Mini Futaba Fm reciever is the middle as well as
my IPD racer ESC........

is anyone running the same set up.....let me know

i'm planning to race on a road course carpet track
this fall......

thanks

[AssociatedRacer]

Jason:

http://yourmicro.com/forums/attachment.php?postid=22027

[AssociatedRacer]

Heres the thread on it

http://yourmicro.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2124

[Nofri]

Originally posted by Jason C

Nofri,

An 8-channel Rx? Well, any receiver will fit (unless it's one of those pager-sized ones from the early 80's), but 8-channels is way overkill. The best would be to use a micro-sized receiver to save weight and space. The Novak XXL receivers are excellent.

I'm not familiar with the Carson Touchdown motor, but the Micro can accept motors ranging from 180-300 size without needing much modification. There was a guy here a while back who attampted to put a 540 size motor on his Micro, but I haven't heard from him for a while.

Yeah thats right, an 8 channel receiver, and it is my only receiver :) I read a lot about the Novak XXL, but it is hard to get here in Holland, do you know the price in Euro's?

The Carson Touchdown is not a motor, it is an Electronic Speed Controller :)

[Got Speed]

Is it an airplane reciever? If it is you may have trouble mounting it under some of the different bodys. I have never heard of that esc. Do you have a link?

[Nofri]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Is it an airplane reciever? If it is you may have trouble mounting it under some of the different bodys. I have never heard of that esc. Do you have a link?
yes its an airplane receiver, (thus, I also have an airplane transmitter, but who cares anyway? :D )

Sorry, got no link, it's not that truemendous big (bigger then the XXL Novak ofcourse :D ) But is smaller then the receiver.

Why does a micro car body looks better then an 1/10th car?

[AssociatedRacer]

i think its illegal to use an airplane radio for ground for a few reasons:

-You might interfer with airplanes, which can fall down and cause injuries
-They have differnet Frequencies then surface radios



I bet theres plenty more

[Jason C]

Teamlosiracer,

Thanks for the link. The body looks pretty good. I was hoping HPI would make one ( I think they make the best bodies after Tamiya and Kyosho).


Nofri,

It's an ESC, okay. I saw the 16T after it and thought it was a 16 turn motor.
I think Teamlosiracer is right, at least that is how I understand the laws in the US (may be different in Holland). As for the price in Euros, currently, the Euro is slightly higher than the USD so the XXL would be around $50 (slightly more for an FM Rx). 8 channels... you could add turn signals, high/low beam lights, horn, etc.

If you can afford it, I suggest you get micro-sized electronics (ESC, Rx, and servo) as they fit best and save weight. I think Micro bodies may look better because HPI puts more finer detail into the mold. 1/10 bodies (like those from Protoform) focus more on actual performance (aerodynamics) than scale detail. For most racers, crossing the finish line first is more important than just looking good. I don't think aerodynamics has as much effect on 1/18 cars as on 1/10 (just look at the wings on the HPI bodies). I would like to see HPI enlist the help of Tamiya to make more Micro bodies. When it comes to scale detail, Tamiya has no equal.

[Nofri]

Its not that illegal (i'm not going into jale or something like that :D :p LOL) But I can use another Cristals right? (thus another frequency)

About the micro electronics, yeah ofcourse I think it is better for the Micro, but when I will buy the electronics it will be expensiver than I thought... (and I'm still choosing between an Corally C4 1:10 and this HPI Micro :))

[moep]

Hi micrologics,

I just ordered myself a Micro including a few hop ups (rear ball-diff, front one-way, universals, Ratzas chassis, Big block conv, ... )

I'm sure the big block will be plenty fast for me in the beginning, but there's this cute brushless-esc on my desk... :D

Here's the motor i plan to use:

http://www.moep.at/phpuploaded/lehn_15.jpg

It has about the same measurements as the Speed 300 (big-block).

Under load (!) it puts out 52400 rpm/s at 6 cells or up to 88000 rpm/s at 10 cells.

I'm confident that the motor will fit right into the bb-motormount,
but just to be sure I'd like to see a technical-drawing of the speed 300 resp. the Big-block. I searched on google for 2 hours, but couldn't find any useful drawings... any help would be appreciated! :)

The other thing is that I wonder whats the spur-/pinon-gear module, because I'll have to get new a pinon-gear that fits the 3,2mm motor axle of the brushless...

Thanks in advance,

Clemens

[InspGadgt]

Very cool...what BL motor is that? What ESC are you going to use? What size is the ESC?

[ultrapc40]

while looking up readers ride on RC nitro, i cam across a mircro nitro, CAN YOU DO THAT!!

IT was one of the new post ride, look it up

"Owner: Nitro Micro of Toronto, On, Canada
Vehicle ID: HPI Nitro Micro Rs4"

scroll down about an inch, and look for it
has any one converted their micro to nitro, if yes, can you tell me HOW??

[ultrapc40]

Here is the pic
pic pull from readers ride on RCnitro.com

[Cube]

IIRC, It used a Norvel 0.061 engline...:cool:

[Got Speed]

Dang! That almost looks fake. Let us know when you find out about it. please!

[ultrapc40]

Ok since i found the pic, i have been trying to figure out how this guy did it, first i would think, he had to make a home made chassis, so he can mount the engine on it.
I took my V one RR out, and tried to compair, and frigure out how he would aline the clutch, with the rear diff, by then i figure that the micro had to be 2 wheel drive at the rear, since the org. drive belt would be in the way of the engine. Lets say it works, but how did he fit all the other electronics in you have to have a servo for the carb, the reciever, and reciever batt pack, plus a gas tank. , i kow the M3 body has alot of room, but that just way too much stuff to pack in their. That all i can think of right now, so i don't believe micro is actually nitro, but if anyone did built a nitro micro, please let me know, how you did it. Personally, i don't think is possible, but i can be wrong.

[AssociatedRacer]

i think he just put it in there and cut a hole in the body, doubt it actually works

[moep]

Originally posted by InspGadgt
Very cool...what BL motor is that? What ESC are you going to use? What size is the ESC?

The BL is from "Lehner motors", a German brushless manufacturer. Here's the Link:

http://home.t-online.de/home/lehner-motoren/p_07_u.htm

I plan to use the 15/11 turn or the 15/12 turn.
They are a bit expensive (120$) , but those motors are best quality and very universal.

Im not sure what ESC I'm going to use.
I planed to put in my Kontronik Beat with 55-6-18 in there, but it's way too big and hasn't even got BEC.

My new choice would be a MGM ESC, either the TMM 08-3ph or the
TMM 18-3ph. They're both small and quite cheap for a BL-esc:

The 08-3ph is about 45$ (8 amps, 6-10 cells, 33x25x5,5 5,5mm, 5.5g weight and 2 Amp BEC.), the 18-3ph is about 60$ and is almost the same, execept its able to handle 18 amps, 6-12 cells and weights 9g.

Here's the Link:

http://www.strat.at/produkte/mgm%20steller.htm

[pinky8u]

how fast does the micro go with the best motor and esc? and is it worth the money?

[Got Speed]

I love my micro. I think it was completly worth it. As far as the fastest micro. The fastest Ive heard of was 60mph with a brushless motor. At that speed you couldn't even control the thing though. On a 1/18 scale track they are the same scale speed as a 1/10

[birdy233]

I was thinking about getting a micro and would like to deck it out with all aluminum goodies, any links on where to get some hop up parts would really be appreciated!! Thanks!!

[Got Speed]

Here are some links to all the companies that I can think of that make micro hop ups. I probably left some out but these are most of them.

www.teamepic.net

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jmendoza3/index.htm

www.racinghardcore.com

www.team-orion.com

http://www.greathobbies.com/frame_index.html

http://secure400.automatedshops.com/cgi-bin/ams/shopzone30.cgi/~wfp16353/st_main.html?p_catid=29

www.bolink.com


www.gpmracing.com

http://www.ratzas.net

I know there are lots more I just can't think of them right now.

You might want to check out places like www.microrcshop.com or www.yourmicro.com .

[birdy233]

Thanks!! Whew tons of places!!! Thanks for your help!!

[speedydave]

I'm getting a mod motor and some other stuff for my Micro, and I was gonna get the GH front diff, but after reading about the problems Insp Gadgt and (I think) Jason had, I'm not so sure, but I know I'll need a different diff than stock, because I'm getting a Big Block...any suggestions? I'm not too good with the dremel, so that's why I'm hesitating...and I don't want to take the diff apart. I have to do all this today, and I'm going to the shop in about an hour to buy the stuff. Thanks!

[Jason C]

Dave,

You can try the one-way, but it will probably end up requiring more maintinence than the GH ball diff as the bearing tends to slip once dirt gets inside.

You really don't need to open up the GH diff. I did that to polish the thrust plates for an extra smooth diff action. The diff funtioned fine without the polishing, but I'm the type who likes to tinker with his stuff to see what I can improve. The only real problem with the GH diff are the steel outdrives - they are a tiny bit too long, forcing the front drivetrain parts outside into the wheels and causing binding. Inspgadgt and I solved the problem in two different ways: I drilled the drivecups deeper to increase clearance. Just use a good drill bit, make sure the bit is centered in the cup, and drill out about 2mm of steel - problem solved. Inspgadgt used a Dremel to shorten the tabs that enter the diff. I felt his way was better, as it left the cups un altered.
You could probably by-pass this problem completely if you had a set of alloy outdrives (like ones from GH or GPM, etc.). They should be the proper length and should be a perfect fit. You could even use the stock plastic outdrives in a pinch, but a Speed 300 would probably tear the heck out of them.

[GTracer22]

I just got a used micro with hot bodies upper deck and chassis. i havent gotten the electronics in but when i turn the front wheels, hold the steering linkage and push it, the wheels go back strait, even when i apply pressure. Also when i turn the front wheels the opposite way, the wheels get to almost a full rotation and then it feels gritty and i have to push harder, but then its fine, untill it gets to that same point. So whats wrong with my front diff?

[GTracer22]

double post:D

[pinky8u]

any one willing to trade there micro for s 3 chaneel radio and a LOT of goodies?

[hitstuff II]

I am buiding a 4x4 micro with 4 wheel steering, I'm using a custom chasis out of a 1/8 inch thick lexan plate, that is rinforced by fiberglass. Now I have never owned a mini or micro car but I am using parts from both the mini z and micro rs4, this is where I need your help, does anyone here know if micro rs4 pinions are the same pitch as mini z pinions, if not would a mini z pinion fit on the stock micro rs4 motor without having to be drilled out? also how thick is the output shaft of the stock micro rs4 motor? The reason I ask these questions is because the mini z diffrential and axel fit my needs (size, thickness, and length) better than the micro's diff, but I want to use a micro motor because I know that it can handle 7.2 volts where as the mini Z's only can take 4.8-6 volts. You're help will be greatly apreciated (and needed). Thanx a bunch in advance.

[hitstuff II]

Btw if you are wondering where I'm getting the lexan and fiberglass you can go to www.Mcmaster.com, they sell everything from screws to titanium. I thought you guys might want to know this, because I have heard of alot of people making custom chasis plates for the micro.

[speedydave]

Well, I ended up getting the Big Block motor, 13T steel pinion, Dynamite aluminum front universals, the GH front ball diff, and..I think that's it. Everything went in fine after I got the GH's outdrives properly seated, and nothing binded, so that was nice.

I had two problems though. One was that the Dynamite universals had no new, machined screws, so I thought I was doomed, but I was looking around, saw the old motor still screwed to the motor plate, and took the motor screws and used those, which works perfectly

The next problem is one XXXER told me about, and gave me the solution. The Big Block has splines on the output shaft for the delrin gears, which makes the diameter of the shaft too big for the steel pinion. So, I spun the Bog Block at low speeds, and used some sand paper to grind it down to the proper size. Worked like a charm! My micro was waaay more fun now...this car rocks!

[tm4347]

I need screws for the motor, anybody know where I could buy some?

[Got Speed]

You can get them from www.towerhobbies.com. Either search under replacement micro parts or for the size bolt. I think a Ti screw kit is $11.

[w007yoshi]

How are yall mounting the opt. 5-6 cell batteries like from Orion??? I tried the servo tape method but it rubs the belt that way. I own 2 of those batt packs and need a quick way to be able to switch them out without having it in a position to harm the belt. Thanks

[Got Speed]

Try using velcro. Either on the top of the uper deck with a foam spacer underneath or on the chassis with two peices and a foam spacer on top.

[w007yoshi]

Thanks, havent tried that yet.

Oh yeah I saw earlier today, the penguin chassis has a quick change battery piece, that might be a big help. Has anyone tried this chassis?

[Got Speed]

I havn't tried it but I love my Team Epic chassis. It has a graphite battery strap that secures the battery to the chassis by two purple nuts. It gives enough room to mount another cell and a normal esc on as well as securing the battery. It has slots cut out for 1.2v 2/3a batterys (there is 8 slots cut out plus enough room to put another 1 or 2 cells on the battery strap) With 10 cells, a normal esc, micro servo, and standard receiver there is still plenty of room. I also like be able to adjust the rear stiffnes with the two T-Plates

[gixxer]

Just got my micro running with tempest max and team orion 7.2v batt and stock motor. Wow the stock motor is slow! What's a hot brushed motor to use for the micro and what pinion?

thanks in advance.

[Got Speed]

That stock motor won't last long on 7.2V. What is a Tempest Max?

[BAC5.2]

i got my micro a little while ago. im thinking of going to the Big Block and a 7 cell orion pack.

my question is this, what else will make this thing faster? how many teeth should i run with the big block?

anything else i should know? i have it in 150mm mode with the M3 body. i have a Futuba Magnum Jr radio with Fatuba ESC

the micro is my first RC, i got it pretty much RTR, 240 total. radio, servo, esc, car, 12 AA batteries for 240, i think it was a good deal over all.

i want this thing to be really fast with good control and good run time. whats the best way to do this and the best way to accomidate the power?

thanks!

[InspGadgt]

Well speed and runtime are almost always a trade off one for the other. You need to find the balance between the two that you can live with.

[gixxer]

What is a Tempest Max?

Did you just get into RC's? The cyclone replaces the Tempest Max. Very similar controlers in terms of performance. The cyclone is just programable and has a lot more steps in terms of throttle response.

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc/tempest/temmax.htm

When i was your age i was running Hpc's and i use to ask what was Mxc or M1c's for those to remember those novaks?:D

[InspGadgt]

Well it seems the Micro forum is timing out so as per instructions I am starting a temp. forum.

Finally got a full speed test of my newly rebuild micro with the addition of the Team Epic EXO chassis and the GH front and rear ball differentials. Let me say this...this is an awesome setup. The difference between the stock setup and this is beyond night and day. I'm not quite finished with the car's setup yet but allready I can tell this is a winner! i have 2 more modifications to do on the chassis. First making a stealth type antenna and second a new rear deck. I play to switch from a rear deck to a rear brace style setup like that of the RC12L3 minus the damper discs of course. This will allow for much easier access to the motor and eliminate the rear deck flex.

[StevePond]

Just testing to see if it works....

[StevePond]

:D

[Jason C]

Inspgadgt,

How's the GH diff working for you? Is it still slipping? My diff slips a bit, but that actually works out well for me. It is sort of like a half-way diff (maybe like an adjustable center one-way on the Corally TCs) so my power is kind of split 30/70 front/rear.

[RCBuddha]

Lol gixxer,

Geez, i haven't used my Mxc since my T1 blew! I still have a couple T4s laying around......In fact, i recently charged up my old RC10CE, and the 410-M5 I have in it still works! Gotta love those old ESCs.....Especially the T4......lol


Buddha

[InspGadgt]

The front GH diff feels a bit more loose than I would like but it doesn't appear to be slipping. I though about it the other day and figured that how tight I'm used to for a 1/10th scale car is much tighter than the small power the micro motors put out in comparison so it should be a bit more loose. But the car did drive like it was biased more toward the rear diff. Solidly planted in the corners like a 4wd but if I punched it hard midway through a corner the back end would get loose rather than the font pulling it though. I'm going to loosen up the back diff a lot just to test to make sure the front isn't slipping. If it is I figured out how to tighten it up anyway. A thin shim placed between the o-ring and the aluminium piece that rides against the outside bearings will make it tighter. Initially I tried a Traxxas rear axle shim and it worked great tightening it up...but it was too tight so I need to find thinner shims.

[Jason C]

Just make sure you glue up the diff halves when you add the shims. The extra pressure would probably pop a friction-fit hold. I'm not too concerned with the slip, so to make maintaining the diff easier, I just flared the case mouth a little and rely on friction to hold it together. It would be nice if the case was threaded so we could adjust the diff by simply turning it.

How about a FWD Micro?

[InspGadgt]

Well i tried it today FWD only to see if the front diff was slipping and its not :) so no need add shims for me. But I also found it much easier to disassemble the diff by soaking it in laquor thinner than by forcing it apart...this softened the glue enough to take it apart. But it also removed all the glue so when I put it back together the fit was really loose and press fit wouldn't work so I ended up re-gluing the diff together with a little CA glue. I buggered up the housing pretty bad trying to take it apart with pliers so I'll probably pick up another one and re-do it with laquor thinner only. Will probably also remove the purple annodizing from the outside too.

[InspGadgt]

Well I finally said screw it and used the stock rear body mount system and a lexan stealth antenna. I have a race tonight so I figured I'd get the car raceable and see what it can do. I had my Vette body painted up a month ago but it wasn't stickered yet so I finished that up too. Of course I had to plaster the Team Epic stickers all over it :D Anyway...wish me luck!

[Got Speed]

Id like to see a pic of your body if you can get one.:)

How are all you holding you GH diffs back together. Mine comes apart with and without glue.

[w007yoshi]

How do yall think the oneway feels in comparison to the front ball diff? I bought the GH oneway. Im still tryin to get used to it

[w007yoshi]

Its too sad there will never be any actual racing goin on round here :mad: :( but I still would like to understand how the oneway acts in handling

[Got Speed]

If there is an onroad track near you they might consider starting a micro class if you can get 3 other racers or more. My track is starting a micro class next week since I found more than 3 people to race.:) Or you could try starting your own, even though you don't have a lap counter:( .

[w007yoshi]

GotSpeed.... its a sad case. We have 5-6 of us wanting to race but NOOOOO the track wont let us build one :mad: There isnt any onroad here either.... so pooey

[Got Speed]

Ask if you can make a temporary track that you can put up and take down in minutes. That's pothetic they won't let you. You could start your own even though you would have to manually count laps.

[w007yoshi]

I dont have enuff flat space to make one :( Heres the pathetic part- he takes up the entire 50' x 30' back room of the track (the owner) to store a freakin camper and sailboat in :mad: :mad: :mad:

[Got Speed]

That's almost funny that he stores his camper and boat at the track.:rolleyes:

[InspGadgt]

Got Speed I used CA to hold the 2 halves together. So far it's holding up really good.

Race results:

I was really impressed with the car's handling with the new setup. Even with the kit tires the car was on the verge of handling great. Some stickier tires will provide an awesome handling car. First qualifier went very well. Finished 2nd place with my lil old HPI mod motor in a field full of BBs. 2nd qualifier was even better at first...had a half lap lead and stretching it when I flipped the car and the turn marshal didn't get me for a whole lap. In the mains my right side rims had gotten pushed in to narrow off-set and it messed up the car's handling big time. But that will be fixed by the time the next race comes around :)

[Got Speed]

Ive got a few 6 cell packs now. They sure make alot of difference from the 4 and 5 cell!:)

[Scrad]

I just ordered a Vette Micro from my LHS for $66 bucks. I would like to know if anyone is using the Spy ESC from Novak? I've heard that you can't use the Spy with a Big Block, but I wanted to get the new Peak Coreless motor anyways. Is the Big Block motor less than 380 in size? Thanks

[InspGadgt]

Got Speed I used CA to hold the 2 halves together. So far it's holding up really good.

Race results:

I was really impressed with the car's handling with the new setup. Even with the kit tires the car was on the verge of handling great. Some stickier tires will provide an awesome handling car. First qualifier went very well. Finished 2nd place with my lil old HPI mod motor in a field full of BBs. 2nd qualifier was even better at first...had a half lap lead and stretching it when I flipped the car and the turn marshal didn't get me for a whole lap. In the mains my right side rims had gotten pushed in to narrow off-set and it messed up the car's handling big time. But that will be fixed by the time the next race comes around

[sprintr]

hi guys

I have a favor to ask..does anyone have a stock motor they want to get rid of?? I bought a used Micro for my nephew and the motor does not run..so I need to find a stock one for him
If anyone has one they want to get rid of please email me at mlehman@dejazzd.com

Thanks
Mike

[AssociatedRacer]

mike, are you sure its not the speed control not working?

[Scrad]

Which motor is faster the coreless or the Big Blocks?

[pimpride]

Hi i just got my micro yesterday and i built it but it dosnt want to move. i tied moving the wheels back and forth and it would be to hard for a motor to do that.i also lossened my pinion and it still didnt work.any comment or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[sprintr]

TEAMLOSIRACER... yup we checked the motor and it is burnt up..I feel bad ..he was excited about it and now he can`t run it:(

Someone has to have one they will part with...come on guys !!!

[Jason C]

Scrad,

I think the big block or speed 300 motors are faster and more powerful.

pimpride,

Sounds like there is something binding up your drivetrain. Are all your bearings seated squarely and flush? How's the front half of the drivetrain? Diffs functioning smoothly? You could try loosening the rear diff. Is the drivebelt properly seated on the pulleys? Any debris stuck between the teeth of a pulley?

[pinky8u]

Originally posted by sprintr
TEAMLOSIRACER... yup we checked the motor and it is burnt up..I feel bad ..he was excited about it and now he can`t run it:(

Someone has to have one they will part with...come on guys !!!

If gokukohai is right, then a micro stock motor should be on the way. when it comes I will sell it to you for 5$ my e-mail address is pinkky8u1004@aol.com

[pinky8u]

pinky8u1004@aol.com

[InspGadgt]

Here's a pit tip I submitted yesterday...in case it doesn't get in RCCA here it is:

Under racing stresses the wheel off-set can get moved around. Many time's I've had a side impact push my wide off-set wheel to full narrow. After that the car's handling gets really bad. To fix this take one of the extra hub cap sets and slide it onto the wheel from the back side of the wheel. Line it up with the indentations for the off-set you want. Drip a little CA glue into the grooves to hold it in place. Then cut off the extra part of the hubcap with a dremel. This will make a ring that the hubcap with the tire mounted on cannot slip past.

[InspGadgt]

Anyone use the Team Orion tires? I just picked up a set of the soft ones last night and mounted them up...they feel super grippy...should be interesting to see how the car handles with them.

[Jason C]

Good idea! I don't have that problem since I use extra wide foam tires I custom made myself. It appears the only drawback to the mod is that you're now stuck at that particular width, but who races with the narrow setting?
No experience with the Orion tires. I'm pretty much sold on foams since I run on carpet.

[JR in NC]

HELP!!!! I'm new to this 1/18th scale fun stuff. These gear ratios have got me all turned around. I've got a 140mm wheelbase micro and both the stock and mod motors from HPI. We are racing on new asphault. Any help out there. Oh yea, stock motor I have to use the rubber tires from HPI, mod motor I can use foams that I just got form TRC.
Is anyone else making tires and other accessories for micros and what or where are their websites.

John
JR in NC

[Jason C]

The spur gear (big one) is pretty much fixed at 58 teeth on the Micro and the pinion (small ones on the motor) can vary from 9-13 (stock gears). Basically, using a lower gear ratio will result in quicker acceleration, but lower top speed and a taller ratio will give higher speed, but slower acceleration. By low, I mean using a smaller pinion (9 tooth) and by tall, the 13 tooth.
Gearing greatly depends on the track layout. If you have a very tight, twisty track with numerous hairpin turns, then you'd want a lower gear ratio as it help you accelerate out of the turns. A wide, open track (like a big oval) would be better suited to a taller ratio since you can run at full throttle. The best would be to experiment with the gears for yourself, since we all drive differently, and stick with what gives you the fastest lap times.

Dynamite, Team Orion, GPM, and Hypertech Racing make tires and wheels for the Micro.

www.teamorion.com
www.horizonhobby.com (for Dynamite stuff)
www.gpmracing.com
www.hypertechracing.com

[InspGadgt]

One thing we've noticed on our track is that with the BB and the HPI mod motor anthing more than a 12 tooth pinion burns out the motors too fast. Keep in mind we are running on the same track as the 1/10th scale F1 cars which is a tad small even for a 1/12th pan car running a standard motor.

[Got Speed]

Is the elite mod the same as the HPI mod?

[w007yoshi]

No: The orion elite is coreless and I hear the plastic can breaks or the holes for the motor screws strip out

The HPI is like 540 motors and has replaceable brushes

[Got Speed]

Which is better? Do you know where I can get it cheap?

[w007yoshi]

Well I would personally pick the HPI or Orion Core micro mod because they give decent speeds and great runtimes. I'd be wary of the orion elites plastic build, but its a faster motor

[Got Speed]

Does the orion coreless give equal performance to the elite? How does the HPI compare?

[gaus]

I have a novak spy installed in my micro. It works fine with the stock motor. I don't know about the others.

Also, someone mentioned they couldnt get their car moving - when I first assembled mine, I didn't pack the front diff very well and it cause the car to perform extremely bad. When I took it apart (the differential) and meticulously reassembled it, the difference was immediately much better.

g

[Scrad]

Motor performance in order of fastest.

Corrected Version...

1. Big Block, Speed 300
2. Coreless, Peak and Orion
3. Core, 45 turn or the Peak version
4. HPI Mod
5. Stock

So if your talking about the core with the brushes. Then the coreless Elite is faster.

For the Spy try resetting the speed control with the new motor in and see what happens. I'm going to put my coreless in with my Spy so I'll let you know if I have that same problem.

[Got Speed]

Is this #2? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXDBJ9&P=7

[w007yoshi]

Scrad- The elite IS the coreless, theres only 1 version of it and its brushed. There is no peak, hpi, or orion brushless. The order should be, then,
1. BB or Speed 300
2. Elite mod or whichever peaks coreless is
3.HPI Peak "Wind" or Orion "Core" mod
4. Stock

[InspGadgt]

Surprisingly enough I've been racing an HPI mod against BB and Speed 300's...we are both geared the same and down the straight we are the same speed...the HPI could use a bit more low end punch than it has but we have a wide open track so it's not that critical.

[Scrad]

Yeah your right the Elite is the coreless. I was thinking it was the Core 45 turn.

So no the core 45 turn is not number 2 the coreless.

[Aluma]

Need some help...i have the RTR micro with slotted rear chassis mod.

1. got the big block motor and i cut some of the plastic so that i can use a smaller pinion just like the instructions say, but so far the smallest i can go is 13T pinion. If i cut off all the way i wont be able to use the little screw that goes there... is that okay?

2. big block doesnt allow the use of the stock shock on 150mm wheelbase... will the car handle badly if the rear shock is not used?

3. can the micro pro control ESC handle the big block on 6.0volt battery pack? how bout the 7.2V batt pack?

4. what pinion is best for the BB? I only have the 9, 11, and 13T pinions.

[InspGadgt]

I don't have a BB yet but based off of what the guys in my micro class are running...

1) you should be able to take enough plastic off to run a 12T pinion.

2) I've been running mine without a shock to get more traction out of the rear of the car...runs great that way on our track.

3) Not familiar with that ESC.

4) Out here we have a large wide open track. We've settled on the 12T pinion. The guys running higher are burning motors up.

[WheelNut]

Anyone here have the pro-line GMC sierra on their micro? How does it handle? I'm getting one in a few days it shoudl be pretty nice :D

[Mustang GT]

I just bought a micro with a porsche body a week ago at hobbytown usa.

[Scrad]

Does anyone else notice their car binding up when turning real tight? The only thing I can think of is the servo is bending the chassis and maybe binding up the belt. But it only does it when I have the servo at 125% travel. Let me know if anyone has any ideas about this.

[w007yoshi]

Its complicated maybe but if you can.... adjust the right and left steering EPA to where the servo ONLY turns however much is needed to lock the wheels left and right. If it tries to turn past a locked position, it will warp the chassis and cause binding.

[Aluma]

hi everyone... i installed the BB on my micro and all of a sudden it started to run really weird. if i stab the throttle it instantly goes into a spin. i took the stock front diff apart and found that one of the plastic gears was totally stripped! Are there gears made of something stronger? i'd hate to waste 10 bucks for a new set and find that as soon as i stab the throttle they'd get chewed up again. :P

[Scrad]

your better off getting a ball diff instead of the stock gears.

[InspGadgt]

Or a 1 way diff...personally I like the front ball diff but only 1 company is making one so far.

[InspGadgt]

well i tried the Orion tires and they seem like they will work well but I didn't have enough foam under them so the tire was too flat and maybe slightly concave. That resulted in the car hopping around the corners. Will try to fix that and see how they work.

[Aluma]

yeah, i got some of those TO tires too....way too flat and my car skips around the corners too.

well, cant find a front ball diff in stock anywhere, so i just locked the front one... so far its working pretty good.

[InspGadgt]

I think they'll work good...just gotta find a thicker foam like the HPI foam...servo tape is too thin.

Whoa I just found this:

http://www.teamspeedster.com/store/itemDesc.php?itemNumber=02339

New adjustable front ball diff! Gotta check the money in the account...must have one.

[Got Speed]

Finnaly they made the one end threaded. Not ony adjustable, easy to take apart.

[Scrad]

Does anyone here run the TRC foams? I was wondering because I bought some and I don't like the crome look on them and wanted to know if anyone has taken the crome off of them.

[jkerr0043]

OK everyone, I just got my first micro. I race 10th scale TC's and I got this for practice in the driveway and for goofing around. (Too much money into the TC3 to risk catching a curb:D I must say I was quite disapointed in the speed though. I already replaced the stock motor with one of the Orion modified motors and there wasn't a whole lot of change. What's the key to getting flat out speed from these things? What's the fastest motor and battery? I'm not planning on racing it but you get a little spoiled when you're used to racing modified 10th scale. And if I get one of the 6-cell Ni-mh packs, can I use my MRC 959 or Novak Ionic chargers on them and just charge at 1 or 2 amps? I know all my answers are in this forum already somewhere, but who has time to look?
Thanks guys.

[jkerr0043]

By the way, here's a pic of my two babies:)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
OK everyone, I just got my first micro. I race 10th scale TC's and I got this for practice in the driveway and for goofing around. (Too much money into the TC3 to risk catching a curb:D I must say I was quite disapointed in the speed though. I already replaced the stock motor with one of the Orion modified motors and there wasn't a whole lot of change. What's the key to getting flat out speed from these things? What's the fastest motor and battery? I'm not planning on racing it but you get a little spoiled when you're used to racing modified 10th scale. And if I get one of the 6-cell Ni-mh packs, can I use my MRC 959 or Novak Ionic chargers on them and just charge at 1 or 2 amps? I know all my answers are in this forum already somewhere, but who has time to look?
Thanks guys.

Which motor did you get? I would rate them lsomething ike this:
From best to least

Acceleration

Elite Mod
HPI mod
Big Block
Stock

Speed

Big Block
Elite mod
HPI mod
Stock

Runtime

Elite mod
Stock
HPI mod
Big Block

The 6 cell battery will make alot of difference with whichever motor your running. There is a guy on here selling the individual cells pretty inexpensivly. His SN is Porsche(I think). He sells 6 of them for $17.50 shipped. I don't know how high you can charge them at but I charge mine at 800mah and it charges in about an hour maybe a little more.

[jkerr0043]

I got the Peak Wind. The guy @ Hobby People said it was just as fast as the more expensive ones. (Probably because it was the only one he had in stock.:rolleyes: I think I'll get one of the elite motors and a 6 cell pack. It seems like you can probably get as much money wound up in one of these things as you get in a 10th scale car.

Oh, by the way. Did anyone else have dificulty getting the front diff to work smoothly? Mine would barely spin. In fact, it's pretty much locked up. Any hints?

[InspGadgt]

Mine worked ok when I still used the stock front diff. The only thing I did differently was use the Tamiya AW grease on the gears but I doubt that had anything to do with it spinning better....if anything it slowed it down as it's a really thick grease. But I soon changed to the GH front ball diff and now that they have an adjustable one out I'm gonna have to pick up one of those.

[ronbeck]

check to see if a bur was left on front diff gears.
will make it feel gritty. i also stretched the spring out
about 50% and it feels tight but smother.

you can also use a varible speed drill to break in the diff.
insert one ball cup into drill and slowly spin will holding opposit side. then reverse.

[jkerr0043]

What about that Peak turbo coreless motor? Any onpinions on that. It is the most expensive one around but that's not always the best. Also does anyone make a Toyata Supra or maybe a Celica body yet?

[Jason C]

Did I hear you right, Inspgadgt? GH now has an adjustable front ball diff? I've been out of touch with the hobby for a couple months now due to school work. Where can you get one?

[Got Speed]

Yes I think tower hobbies has them. They are threaded like everyone said they ought to make them.:) :D