HPI Micro RS-4 Forum v1.0

[InspGadgt]

Yes it's true...you can get them at the link I posted above from Team Speedster

[jkerr0043]

What pinion would you guys use with a Peak Wind mod motor and the Orion 6cell NiMH pack? I had the stock 9 tooth and it seemed pretty quick but the power stripped the pinion after about three runs. I'm going to order aluminum pinions but I'm not sure what the correct gearing should be.

[Got Speed]

I would use either the 9 or the 11 but not the 13. People burn up the motors alot with the 13.

[Scrad]

Does anyone know of a way to stiffen the car up? I've ran my car with foams on carpet and I'm getting too much traction and rolling the car. I cut the chassis before, for more traction but now I have too much. Don't tell me to put glue on the outside of the tire, because I hate doing that to my tires to make them work. Any other suggestions would be great.

[JR in NC]

The new optional part #42790 tie rod kit. It is wonderful, it beats that sham of a steering system all to h--l. The only problem is remember you broke the ears off your steering servo per the MANUAL, well now you need them.
It is a real shame when a company like HPI has to cover it's a-s because of a design flaw, with an "optional part" that should be in every kit.

SHAME ON YOU HPI


JR in NC

[gaus]

I just installed a Peak Wind 45T motor in my RS4 Micro. I use an Orion 7.2V 1100 battery and a steel 10T pinion and this car is now finally where I want to see it performing. I don't race, mostly just a lot of neighborhood cruising, but there is enough speed there to really break out fast and do many maneuvers involving slides and 180s, etc.. I must say that my friend Tyler did a marvelous job of detailing the car and with the lights on it is probably one of the better cars you will see (soon.)

gaus

[Aluma]

Originally posted by JR in NC
The new optional part #42790 tie rod kit. It is wonderful, it beats that sham of a steering system all to h--l. The only problem is remember you broke the ears off your steering servo per the MANUAL, well now you need them.
It is a real shame when a company like HPI has to cover it's a-s because of a design flaw, with an "optional part" that should be in every kit.


where can we see this part? i looked on hpi's site and i couldnt find it. :P

[JR in NC]

Try the HPI website under new stuff,then optional parts for Micros. Tower Hobbies is the only place I've seen it under car and trucks accessories. Hope that helps its very easy to install.


JR

[Got Speed]

Team Epic's chassis also comes with adjustable turnbuckles in the front.

[jkerr0043]

OK guys, I've started my customization on my micro. I knew I couldn't leve well enough alone:D . I already have the Peak Wind, and the 6 cell orion pack. But the car is in pieces right now waiting for the upgrades. I just got in my Ratzas Pro chassis and upeer deck, Pro rear deck with shock, and the GH front and rear ball diffs. I've got the Powerline top cover, full set of pinions, Orion Elite mod, TRC foams, & aluminum pulley on the way and I'm going to get a stratus body, Novak XXL receiver, adjustable steering slider, aluminum dog bones and front shocks. I'll post some pics when I get it done.

[SC-18_Racer]

Have anyone tried the BRP SC-18? I bought one for fun and like it better than my Micro!!! It is great on carpet tracks, and very fast out of the box! I have alot of $$ in my Micro, the SC-18 was $100, and I can beat 80% of my Micro buddys! The chassis is so simple and easy to set up......if you some extra cash----pick one up. It is alot of fun!

[InspGadgt]

I thought about it but the foam tires and 2wd wouldn't grip well enough on our track surface and the Micro RS4's would stomp it. I see that happening in F1 allready (we run F1 the same night) where the 2wd F1 while faster just can't get enough grip where the 4wd one doesn't care.

[SC-18_Racer]

I have the BRP HPI tire adapters on my SC-18...grip is no problem! I also have the Orion Big Block motor...trust me the SC-18 is very fast!

[jkerr0043]

I'm almost finished with my micro. The only thing I'm waiting on is my SPY ECS and the Orion Elite motor. I can't wait to drive this thing.

[jkerr0043]

Here it is with it's big brother.

[Got Speed]

Those matching paint jobs are cool!:cool: :)

I would suggest though making some sort of guard for that reciever if you are with other cars, since it is so vulnerable to being rammed. :eek:

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by SC-18_Racer
I have the BRP HPI tire adapters on my SC-18...grip is no problem! I also have the Orion Big Block motor...trust me the SC-18 is very fast!

Grip would still be a problem on our track...even the Micros suffer from lack of grip...a 2wd is even worse. One guy tried a 2wd Micro out there and it was all over the place.

[jkerr0043]

I just finished my car and I'm having trouble with the GH rear ball diff. I can't get it to stop slipping. If i tighten it up enough that it wont slip, it's completly locked. And even then, if I grab both rear wheel hubs and try to turn the spur, it will still loosen up and slip. Any ideas? Is there anything you need to do to it before you install it?

[InspGadgt]

Hmmm...I rebuilt mine as soon as I got it to make it more smooth...the diff rings are really pitted a lot and needed a few hours of sanding to get nice.

Have you tried it on the car and heard it slipping? Mine felt super loose when I first got it and it drove me crazy. Then I realized I was judging the diff based on diffs for 1/10th pan cars which have a lot more power and weight. I found the diff really doesn't need to be as tight as I thought to not slip under driving conditions.

If it's still slipping check the o-ring in the pulley side of the diff and make sure it's ok. That is what provides the spring tension for the diff.

[Scrad]

Hey guys, I was just going to let you know that I won our LeMans challenge today at the LHS. We had a 30 Minute nonstop race. I got 160 some laps and second had 145 or so laps. I even beat a Ratzass with a Big Block.

[jkerr0043]

Good Job. That's a long race for any electric. How'd the motor hold up? Did it run hot at all?

[Scrad]

Nope the motor ran just fine. Not really warm at all. I dropped the pinion down to 8 teeth, to get the run time I needed and since the track was tight. I run the Peak coreless by the way.

[k_sw31]

HI guys, I have a micro, 140 mm wheelbase, and i have a couple of questions.

I run 4 rechargable aa's, with the 45 turn motor, fusion esc, and standard size reciever. I just removed the front diff, belt, etc. to make it 2wd, get longer runtimes, bit more speed, etc. I have the esc all the way forward and the reciever all the way back. The thing is, i don't get great handling when on the gas, so i was wondering, how could i improve on-power handling? Would adding like an oz of lead to the front help? Ball diff?


I also would like about 5-10 mph at not much cost, i don't wanna go big block, cause of the 140 mm wheelbase, would 6 cells do the trick?

Oh, and one last question, is there an way i could run 5 or 6 rechargeable AA's?

Thanks in advance.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Scrad
Does anyone know of a way to stiffen the car up? I've ran my car with foams on carpet and I'm getting too much traction and rolling the car. I cut the chassis before, for more traction but now I have too much. Don't tell me to put glue on the outside of the tire, because I hate doing that to my tires to make them work. Any other suggestions would be great.

Try doubleing up the springs, its a bit redneck, but it works.

jkerr0043- that thing is nice, what chassis kit is it? Pimpin!
;)

[jkerr0043]

A six cell NiMH pack will help with the speed as will the big block. As far as the handling, hook the front wheel drive back up. If you add weight to the front end it will help with the handling but then a heavier car is defeating the purpose of going 2wd because the motor has a heavier car to push around. You may even end up going slower. There's a reason the car was built as a 4wd.

[k_sw31]

Well, the main reason i made it 2wd is cause the diff was giving me troubles. I'll try adding a little weight, see if that helps.

Oh, where can i get a six cell pack for like 30 bux or so?

Edit; You think these would be good? http://www.promatchracing.com/micro.htm

Thanks.

[jkerr0043]

It's a Ratzas with a Powerline front top cover and upper deck with a Ratzas pro rear deck. Here's a pic of it "Finished" but I still have some other things I plan to do.

[k_sw31]

cool :cool:

[jkerr0043]

I think the Orion 6 cell pack is about 40-45 bucks. You should be able to get it from any of the hobby shops or online stors like tower or hobby people.

[jkerr0043]

k_sw31

I just looked at that link you put on there. I think I know what packs I'm going to order next week for that price.:) That's an awesome price for what looks to be a good pack

[k_sw31]

Yeah, pro match has great pricing on everything, i heard their cells can last 3 years in top candition! I guess i'll be getting a pack too.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Well, the main reason i made it 2wd is cause the diff was giving me troubles. I'll try adding a little weight, see if that helps.

Oh, where can i get a six cell pack for like 30 bux or so?

Edit; You think these would be good? http://www.promatchracing.com/micro.htm

Thanks.

You can get 6 new 1100mah NiMh batterys for $18.50 shipped from Porsche on these forums and yourmicro.com forums.

They are really nice, I have some, they give good run time, power, and there lightweight do to their size.

[k_sw31]

thanks, I have one more question, what would i get roughly runtime wise with 6 1100 mah batts and the 45 turn motor?

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
It's a Ratzas with a Powerline front top cover and upper deck with a Ratzas pro rear deck. Here's a pic of it "Finished" but I still have some other things I plan to do.

To use that fat shock, would i need the whole chassis or just the rear deck? How much would it cost?

Also, where could I get a chassis w/ a servo mount, I HATE THAT *** **** SERVO TAPE!!!!!!

[jkerr0043]

Go to http://www.microrcshop.com You don't have to get the chassis to run that shock but I'm pretty sure you have to run the Pro rear deck. The Ratzas Pro Pan chassis has a servo mount with it.

[jkerr0043]

Anyone have experiance with brick cells? I think I could stuff an 8 cell brick pack in but I heard they're not too good. Any opinions?

[MMTM]

If I remember right the brick cells are 1100 mah. I have seen several cars with them installed and heard no real complaints. I'm not sure where they are sold but if you can get them it seems like you could build a good compact battery. I'm also not sure about the weight but I doubt they are much more than AAAs. I suck at building batts so I'll buy prebuilt packs for now but I may try these out as I get a little more into racing.

btw, I just bought my micro last Friday and I'm taking it to my first micro race tomorrow at the LHS (evening parking lot racing) :D

Here are some pics and a rundown of my setup so far (note: I'm running in a super stock class so I can't get too crazy with this thing just yet. Max 6v and any stock motor)

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/m34.JPG

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/m35.JPG

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/m36.JPG

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/m37.JPG

- JR 756 radio
- Orion Flash esc
- Elite stock motor
- 1100 mah HPI 6v batt.
- HPI servo saver / tierod kit
- Hobbico cs35 micro servo

Finally I just ordered an ARM pan chassis to complete the setup. I should have that in early next week.

[k_sw31]

Man, i wish i could actually do a good paint job :( Aw well, my porshe met its end when i was playing chicken with my friend's evader ;)

[gaus]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=99772

1 car, two bodies. Peak Wind/Spy/TO 7.2v, fun car.

[k_sw31]

hey guys, instead of buying colored wheels, just paint ur own, besides, you can paint over them anyways. My rims are metallic green, and they look awesome, though my body doesn't ;)

[Scrad]

Is anybody here running the Penguin P3500LM chassis? I'm interested in it, but would like some details.

[utieh]

the p3500lm is a very good chassis, i had it for $62,it fits both 140and 150mm set up and had almost rear independant suspension
here is the link to get one
http://www.penguinrc.com/products/hpi/p3500.html

here is my rx7 with this chassis
http://community.webshots.com/album/49836513rqNRNt

[Scrad]

utieh, for the $62 did you get the rear deck and the upper deck included? I looked at the webpage, but it doesn't say you get the rear deck.

Also did it handle good? And how was the durablility? Where you using a micro servo? Thanks.

[utieh]

the kit contains the main chassis ,the rear and upper decks and a battery pack holder
it handles very well (this chassis won the last hpi micro race in chicago)
and for durability.........a *******guy came accross my micro with is bicycle and....nothing exept
a crushed body!

[InspGadgt]

For the money and design I still prefer the Team Epic EXO chassis...that thing is way sweet and only around $40!

[Scrad]

Yeah, but it doesn't come with a rear pod. I would have to buy one that would work with the VCS shock. So the price would be the same. Plus I want something no else around me has.

[utieh]

i saw a lot of people using the stock rear pod, u have to fix the shock on the antenna hole.
u should take a look on the hpi forum .there are some threads explaining how to do .

[jkerr0043]

I race with Orlando, the guy who makes the Epic. I would be running his chassis but you have to run a Hitec servo and I've always been an Airtronics guy. But I do agree, his chassis is pretty sick.

[InspGadgt]

The VCS shock just looks way too big for a micro for my taste...I run that with the softest spring on my 12L3...for our track that would be too heavy of a spring.

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
I race with Orlando, the guy who makes the Epic. I would be running his chassis but you have to run a Hitec servo and I've always been an Airtronics guy. But I do agree, his chassis is pretty sick.

Very cool...he does great work...that's some of the best cut carbon fiber I've seen. I especially like the recessed groove to give the belt more clearance. Though making a 1 piece battery pack isn't the easiest with that chassis...I think what i'm going to do is get extra battery straps and glue the cells to the strap. That will make it a lot easier to change and store batteries.

[utieh]

the vcs is not really useful on a micro.....but u can use it without the spring .

[Scrad]

If its not useful, why do so many aftermarket kit have that option? I know I need it since I get too much traction at my track.

[hypertech]

Has anyone tried these GPM micro tire inserts or know of anyone that makes good ones ?

[hypertech]

Originally posted by utieh
the vcs is not really useful on a micro.....but u can use it without the spring .

I tend to agree with that....the stock rear shock is fine. I find that my car works best when the rear shock shaft is coated with Ofna diff lock and the spring is removed.

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by utieh
the vcs is not really useful on a micro.....but u can use it without the spring .

But look how trick looking they are:D I'm not serious about racing these things like I am with the 10th scale so the more purple shiny stuff, the better:cool:

[utieh]

vcs looks cool......
if u have too much traction just play with ur tire set up
on the penguin chassi u can change the dampening effect by changing small plates
i don t even run with the stock shock/spring.
anyway if u really want the vcs, just use 10wt oil, more will be really too much

[Scrad]

So what dampening would I want since I have too much traction? I'm running hard foams and red Orion springs?

[utieh]

first try stock tiresin the rear and if u still have too much traction , in the front too
if u plan to buy an aftermarket chassis ,take the penguin, ratzas rrx or the epic, u can adjust the rear flex (so u can put the firmer plate).

marketing is another reason why compagnies sell vcs shocks!

[Scrad]

I meant what dampening things for the Penguin chassis? I ended up buying one and I know it has those roll center things with different tensions.

[utieh]

it is sold with 3 plates, in ur cas take the largest one .
u can also play with how ur batts are mounted, if u have too much traction in the rear, put them more in the front.....

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
I race with Orlando, the guy who makes the Epic. I would be running his chassis but you have to run a Hitec servo and I've always been an Airtronics guy. But I do agree, his chassis is pretty sick.

You don't have to run a micro servo. It works best that way obviously but I have a standard servo laying over with 1/8th inch spacer under it shoe goed to the chassis. Sounds kind of hack but it works great.

Now I just need to stop running mine in the road. :rolleyes: Gets all scratched up. lol.

Anybody have experience with the big block and/or a 45 T motor?
My stock motor's life has finally come to an end so I need to replace it. Im going to start racing soon on a realy open track, so I was thinking BB. BTW: If you havn't read above I am running an epic chassis.

[The One]

My micro has some steering problems.
1) it drifts left faster and faster the further i drive it
2) the car's front end swings back and forth when i accelerate


could you help me?:confused:

thanks in advance

[Got Speed]

1- Check you steering trim to make sure it isn't to far to the left.
Make sure your diffs are operating properly.

2-Either put the wheels on a farther out setting.
Get softer compound or newer tires.

[jkerr0043]

I just got back from racing the micro for the first time. I took second. Not bad for the first race.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by The One
My micro has some steering problems.
1) it drifts left faster and faster the further i drive it
2) the car's front end swings back and forth when i accelerate


could you help me?:confused:

thanks in advance


My micro does the same thing on carpet, it happens cause the tires are spinning for some reason (not enough traction), try a set of foams or some softer compund tires.

About the 45 turn motor, I have it, and it works great, 9 tooth aluminum pinion, 4 aa rechargebles, and It hardly even gets warm, running for 45 minutes strait. Plus you can replace the brushes, etc. I've noticed about the same torque as stock, but you must gain aroud 5-7 mph, its pretty good for 20 bucks, I like it, and I'm picking up a 6 cell pack soon :D

[MMTM]

I just finished the last planned mod for now. I installed my AMR pan chassis today and I must say it is very nice. This chassis was only $13 plus shipping but the quality of the work is still awsome. The stiffness is about the same as stock even though I removed the upper plate all together and the CG is much lower now. Check it out.

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/pan1.jpg

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/pan2.jpg

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/pan3.jpg

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/pan4.jpg
Only trouble is that the new chassis is wider than the M3 body so I will be going to the Mercedes CLK body (aw shucks :D )
http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/pan5.jpg

[k_sw31]

Where'd you get the chassis and does it have a servo mount?

[jkerr0043]

Any one running the Orion flash ESC ever have a problem with the throttle response on it? I seem to have a delay getting on the throttle and it seems to hurt me coming off the couple of turns I had to let off in today. (We run on the same track we run our 10th scale cars on.)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by k_sw31
My micro does the same thing on carpet, it happens cause the tires are spinning for some reason (not enough traction), try a set of foams or some softer compund tires.

About the 45 turn motor, I have it, and it works great, 9 tooth aluminum pinion, 4 aa rechargebles, and It hardly even gets warm, running for 45 minutes strait. Plus you can replace the brushes, etc. I've noticed about the same torque as stock, but you must gain aroud 5-7 mph, its pretty good for 20 bucks, I like it, and I'm picking up a 6 cell pack soon :D

Have you run with big blocks? Does it compare?

[MMTM]

k_sw31: The chassis is available at ARM (http://www.americanracingmodels.com/) . They were great. I ordered on Thursday and payed via paypal and the chassis showed up on Saturday. Not bad from Colorado to Georgia. For the servo mount I already had the HPI tie-rod link / saver setup but the chassis did not have the 2 holes to mount my steering. I simply bolted the stock chassis to the new ARM deck and drilled / countersunk the holes for the mount. It took about 5 mins (had to look for my drill bits :) ) and I was all set. The chassis did not come with its own servo mount.

jkerr0043: I have noticed a slight hesitation in my Flash esc but it only appears to happen from a stop usually and its never been more than a 1/2 second I'd say. The only complaint I had on my Flash is that the brakes suck!! I talked to my LHS owner and he had the same trouble w/ his Flash but said it has gotten much stronger after running for a while. I am starting to see improvement also. Perhaps that studder will fade with use as well. If it starts to bug me I'll pick up another esc.

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by The One
My micro has some steering problems.
1) it drifts left faster and faster the further i drive it
2) the car's front end swings back and forth when i accelerate


could you help me?:confused:

thanks in advance

I had some similar problems...in my case the drifting was due to the off-set of the wheel being pushed all the way in on one side from and accident and the other side being on wide off-set. The swinging on mine was because I haddn't glued the tires....oops

[ronbeck]

what motor would you suggest? the orion chrome modified? or big blocK? with 6v or 7v battery??

might run in race at lhs, my car would be a mod, even with stock motor.
penguin 3500 chassis and gpm motor pod and motor heat sink.

any suggestions?:confused:

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Have you run with big blocks? Does it compare?

i've driven my bro's bb, if you gear up to a 13 tooth, you get about twice the speed and torque as a 45 turn w/ a 9 tooth. its way to much power for me, but, they are really fast! (this is with 4 cells too)

[Scrad]

Well I got my Penguin chassis today. I ordered it late Thursday and it came on Monday. I put the chassis together about 10 minutes before the race tonight. I have to say this chassis is really awsome. I smoked everyone by 2 laps in the heat and 5 in the main. There was a 100% improvement from the stock set up. I lapped a 45 turn with a stock chassis and a Ratzas limited edition or maybe he was running his Epic with a stock motor. (Damn guy has 2 very hopped up micros.) We are all supposed to run a stock motor. But the 45 turn guy thought we were all running stock. I even talked my friend into getting a Penguin.

Does anyone have a solution for the rims to not move all the way in on the wheel slots? I run my tires wide, but they end up moving in real narrow.

Ronbeck, run the 7 volt with the Big Block if the track is big and open or short mains. If it is small and tight run the Core coreless or if you run long mains.

[utieh]

Scrad, for the wheel, just cut a thin piece of lexan: 2or3 mm (ur width set up) x 80mm that you put inside the wheel (don t have to glue it, it will prevent the whell from moving .

[InspGadgt]

I posted another tip here earlier in the thread where I used a spare wheel set and CA glued it to the inner rim from the backside up to the off-set mark. Go back a few pages you'll find pictures...it was really easy to do.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by MMTM
k_sw31: The chassis is available at ARM (http://www.americanracingmodels.com/) . They were great. I ordered on Thursday and payed via paypal and the chassis showed up on Saturday. Not bad from Colorado to Georgia. For the servo mount I already had the HPI tie-rod link / saver setup but the chassis did not have the 2 holes to mount my steering. I simply bolted the stock chassis to the new ARM deck and drilled / countersunk the holes for the mount. It took about 5 mins (had to look for my drill bits :) ) and I was all set. The chassis did not come with its own servo mount.



Wait, I'm confused, the chassis doesn't come with a servo mount, but what is the HPI tie-rod link / saver setup? Is that like a sevo mount or what? I guess what i wanna know is if you have to use servo tape to mount the servo.

[MMTM]

Here is a pic of the steering mount, servo saver, and tie-rod set. It all comes together in HPI #72490 Dual Link Tie Rod Set for Mini Servos (Micro RS4) $13.00. The servo mounts to the plate and then the plate bolts to the chassis. No servo tape to come loose or to peel off if you want to make a change.


http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/72490.jpg

[Scrad]

I found it on pg 29. I think I might do something like that, but not use the full 360. Or I might glue something into the foam rims.

[k_sw31]

Can u use the set with standard size servos? If not, where can i get a cheap mini/micro servo?

Oh yeah, is there any difference between the hpi 45 turn, the core 45 turn, and the peak 45 turn? Or is there just different labels?

[Aluma]

hey guys, have any of you tried those Sanyo flat nicads? are they any good or are the Ofna flat nimh's better? I saw them at one of the micro shops.

[utieh]

u can t use standart size servo with this set , i recommend u to buy a hitec micro servo (mg 85 or 81 bb)prices start at $20 .

[MMTM]

Its made for Micro servos. I'm using a Hobbico CS-35. It was about $26 from my LHS. Its actually a bit stronger than a standard servo and very quick (.11 transit @6v and 55oz torque). There are severall options but thats the only one I have ever used. No trouble so far.

[ronbeck]

utieh
you can too use a standard servo with the tie rod kit!
i am using a standard sie jr racing servo that cam with my xr2 radio. if you cut you tabs off per kit instructions you have to just use servo tape. but works mucch better than stock.

[JR in NC]

you can use any servo that will fit I'm currently using a Hitec-225 in my micro. Biggest thing you need to do is change over to metal gears from plastic I do this with all my servos, they last longer and are more dependable just use plenty of lube and seal the servo case. You do need the ears for the servo to install the HPI tie rod kit (wish they would have let us know this in the instruction manual) just so everyone knows the tie rod kit has been in the works for at least 6 months. HPI knew there was a problem but chose to ignore it, who would believe that servo tape would hold a steering servo in place.

[k_sw31]

OK, well, i guess sometime i'll pick up the kit, try it with a standard size servo, and if required, i'll pick up a micro servo.

[MMTM]

I needed a wider body to match up to my ARM pan chassis so I picked up the Mercedes CLK DTM lid. This one is much wider than the M3 body and I can now have the tires at full width, and fit the body over my wide pan chassis. Check out the pics.

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/clk1.jpg

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/clk2.jpg
This fits much better, and no trimming was needed to clear the ARM chassis.
http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/clk3.jpg

[beeper]

Does anyone have a pic of the Rat Zas chassis assemblyed? I'd like to see it. Thanks!

[jkerr0043]

here's my Ratzas

[k_sw31]

MMTM, ya know what would look cool (i think) is if you were to paint the rims the same silver as on your body. Just my 2 cents, the body looks great anyways.

[Scrad]

For those of you that run the VCS shock. Where did you get the ball ends that fit the HPI stock balls? I just got a VCS and the balls that came with it are too big to fit the HPI ones. If there is a part number for them please let me know. Thanks

[jkerr0043]

mine came with the ratzas pro rear deck kit. it came with a vcs shock and everything to mount it.

[Scrad]

Where there any part numbers for the ends?

[rcnitrorush99]

I am new to the micro stuff and i am starting to save mobey fro a HPI Micro RS4. i was looking around and some forums where talking about motor brushes. i have a couple of questons. what exactly is the motor brush?wat does it do? and if im jsut gettin the car to se to play around and jsut drive in the streets with i burn/break a brush and ahve to buy new ones quickly or will thye last a while if im jsut riding around? thanks hope someone can answer this thanks
ryan

[Scrad]

The stock motor doesn't have any brushes (well it does, but you can't change them). So you don't have to worry about brushes unless you get a 45 turn mod motor.

I found another way to fix your rims from moving in if you are running the TRC foams. I just glued some old shock pistons that I had from a old 1/10 kit to the inside of the rim. But any sort of washer or spacer would work. However this wouldn't work good with the stock rims, since you can see through them.

[jkerr0043]

The biggest problem with that is it could throw the weels way off balance.

[rcnitrorush99]

does the Big Block motor that is a hop up for the RS4 have any burshes taht i will ahve to worry about? thansk for the info

[Scrad]

Well if you glue them right in the middle you shouldn't have any problems with them being unbalanced.

[RS4]

hey guys

well i am back to the hobby after a 6month break! i have other hobbies in the summer (my dodge intrepid), now that the weather sux here i can finally get back to my micro

i just reassmbled the whole car, and did a slightly different electronics layout. i also got soft hpi tires all around and some venom rims.

unfortunately i beleieve a lot has happened in the world of micros since i have been gone, so u have some catching up to do!

[beeper]

jkerr0043 what all do you have on your Ratzas? Do you have their upper deck? What motor are you running and such? Thanks!!

[jkerr0043]

Here's the list
-Ratzas pan chassis
-Ratzas pro rear deck w/ VCS shock
-Powerline upper deck
-Powerline front top cover
-Adjustable front ball diff
-Stock rear diff (the ball diffs for the rear seem to slip a lot and where I'm racing, you can't lose any power)
-TRC foams
-Peak Wind 45 turn motor (Slow:mad:
-Orion 6 cell pack
-Navak XXL reciever
-Orion flash esc.
-Cheap airtronics servo

Soon to have a:
-Big Block
-Novak Spy ESC
-Maybe a micro servo also

[Aluma]

check this check this.... oh yeah!! Burn baby BURN!!!

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=754813

[RS4rally1124]

i just got my micro. this thing is awsome.(before the esc died don't know why.) i am debating on new esc.
problems
BUDGET

i already paid
$40 micro (built but never driven.)
$10 ofna batterie.

i am thinking of just getting better electonics. i will eventually get the graphite conversion but not right away.

what else do you guys sugest for it.

thanks JT


also i need ideas for a paint job for a viper body if yuo can give me links.

[Scrad]

I would look into getting the Novak Spy. I really like mine and they are very small.

Looks like a inscense stick under that Micro.

[tonylukes]

Im going to buy a ARM pan chassis for the micro and want to install the dual tie rod kit. I know you have to drill in order to do this but whats the process for countersinking such a small hole? Is there a specific bit I should go find?

tonylukes

[Scrad]

You might want to drill the hole and then use a dremel with a cone shaped sanding bit. Using a regular drill bit will rip up the fibers and look like crap.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by RS4rally1124
i just got my micro. this thing is awsome.(before the esc died don't know why.) i am debating on new esc.
problems
BUDGET

i already paid
$40 micro (built but never driven.)
$10 ofna batterie.

i am thinking of just getting better electonics. i will eventually get the graphite conversion but not right away.

what else do you guys sugest for it.

thanks JT


also i need ideas for a paint job for a viper body if yuo can give me links.

Where did you get your micro for $40? :eek:

[MMTM]

On the ARM chassis I drilled my chassis holes to match the stock holes for the steering. To countersink the holes I used a 1/4" bit and just carefully drilled to sink the hole. You could also use a dremel bit as suggested above.

One other mod for that setup. You will need to groove the chassis to clear the servo saver. I think I trimmed about 3mm X 10mm channel in the chassis to make sure there was no bind in the steering. I did not have to trim all the way through the chassis.

[RS4rally1124]

the product manager at my lhs is a great guy. he is always getting new stuf and selling the old. he just bought a new micro and started to customize it. he then found this old viper micro in his basement. i then was talking and he asked me if i wanted a micro. he was selling it out of the cabbinette for $60 and i only had 40 so he gave it to me.

this guy is totally awsome. he is the same guy that i got a clod for $10. i traded the clod for a graphite rc10t with full graphite conversion and xxxl reciever and old futaba servo.

i have also gotten 1 other thing from him for $50. it was a ready to run t3 with BB and a charger, better radio and 8 matched 2000 packs.(i took 5 of them:D :D )

so i almost always buy used. it is the only way to keep this hobbie cheap. my next car


new storm rtr for $419.99
is that a good price:confused:


JT

sorry its so long but you asked

[JR in NC]

Doesn't anyone use the original HPI chassis anymore. You start getting into all these optional chassis and mod motors you might as well go ahead and get a 1/12th scale or a 1/10th scale for all the cash your dumping into a micro,which isn't even sanctioned by any racing organazation. Heck, I know there fun and great to race indoors when it's cold or wet outside, but when you've got $400 or $500 in a micro I think you've missed the point.

My micro is basic stock with the exception of foam tires and metal pinion gears. We race micros every week informally, but it doesn't get in the way if I have to get the 1/10th scale ready for a race or if I'm trying a new setup I'm at the track working on the !/10th scale.

Can anyone explain this phenomenon to me, or is everyone on this thread blinded by the micro light.

[jkerr0043]

I was the same way when I first got a micro. I was running it stock for about a week. But before I even got it to a track, the project was on. But being a racer, it's just in your blood to make it better, make it faster, and of course, it's gotta look good:D And it's just having something different and putting your work into it and your touch on it. I take pride in my cars and equipment. I have as much fun working on and maintaining my cars as I do racing them. I like going to the track and having people admire the cars I've built and the work I've put into them. I guess it's a pride thing. And just look at them! They're bad **s and a ton of fun to race. That's just how I see it.

[gaus]

Where can you buy HPI bodies for Micros w/o buying the kit? I see one at Tower, the BMW. I see some Bolink and Proline bodies. The HPI bodies are the best, but they seem to be hard to find. Any ideas?

I run mine with the stock chassis and it is great fun. Very fast little car. Must be careful not to scratch me new paint job.

gaus

[Scrad]

Look at Horizonhobby. Thats where my LHS gets their HPI bodies from.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by JR in NC
Doesn't anyone use the original HPI chassis anymore. You start getting into all these optional chassis and mod motors you might as well go ahead and get a 1/12th scale or a 1/10th scale for all the cash your dumping into a micro,which isn't even sanctioned by any racing organazation. Heck, I know there fun and great to race indoors when it's cold or wet outside, but when you've got $400 or $500 in a micro I think you've missed the point.

My micro is basic stock with the exception of foam tires and metal pinion gears. We race micros every week informally, but it doesn't get in the way if I have to get the 1/10th scale ready for a race or if I'm trying a new setup I'm at the track working on the !/10th scale.

Can anyone explain this phenomenon to me, or is everyone on this thread blinded by the micro light.

Well, i with you, the only reason why i'd buy a new micro chassis is for the servo mount, but i can buy one of those seperatly anyways :) Except i do have a 45 turn motor, more speed the better. :D Now all i need is a reversible esc. Hummmmmm... Once i was able to fit a super rooster in my micro, i still have a SR, :D

[Scrad]

When I first got my micro I only planned to get a coreless motor. I didn't want to put any money into at all to race. But then I started looking around at chassis, just for fun. I then bought a Penguin chassis. If you look at how much hop ups for 1/10 cars are and compare them to a micro the micro is just cheaper to hop up. I've only put about 100 dollars into my micro from its original form. The chassis a body and a ball diff that I had to get since my original one locked up on my while racing.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by JR in NC
Doesn't anyone use the original HPI chassis anymore. You start getting into all these optional chassis and mod motors you might as well go ahead and get a 1/12th scale or a 1/10th scale for all the cash your dumping into a micro,which isn't even sanctioned by any racing organazation. Heck, I know there fun and great to race indoors when it's cold or wet outside, but when you've got $400 or $500 in a micro I think you've missed the point.

My micro is basic stock with the exception of foam tires and metal pinion gears. We race micros every week informally, but it doesn't get in the way if I have to get the 1/10th scale ready for a race or if I'm trying a new setup I'm at the track working on the !/10th scale.

Can anyone explain this phenomenon to me, or is everyone on this thread blinded by the micro light.

I bought my micro as something I could run at home any time very inexpensivly and race ocasonally too. I put my other RCs especially my XXXN-T ADE first but if I have some left over money I will get something for the micro. Currently I have a steel pinion, Epic chassis, and 6 cell NiMih battery. Next is a big block. Other than that there isn't a whole lot of stuff Im really going to buy I don't think. lol

[jkerr0043]

If you look at how much hop ups for 1/10 cars are and compare them to a micro the micro is just cheaper to hop up.

That's a good point. You can't buy a competition 1/10 scale touring car kit for what I've put in my micro

[jkerr0043]

Anyone else hear any of the serious grumblings we've been hearing down here about AE possibly coming out with a Micro TC3? Being that I race a 1/10 scale TC3, I think I'd be all over that. If they copy the 1/10 scale design, it seem like it would be a better design. They could even go with independant rear suspension rather than the solid, pan style rear end. But we'd need even more power because it wouldn't be a direct drive. Anyone else have any thaughts on it?

[k_sw31]

The micro thing that i wanna see most is a real micro off roader, something that you can run around on gravel and stuff :D Not something cheasy like that new mini-z. :rolleyes: I agree though, a micro tc3 would be tight :cool:

[k_sw31]

Hehe, just shoehorned my super rooster into my micro :D Its possible. ;)

[tphss]

Here is my new micro with a Never runned Kyosho INFERNO DX-II.

My Micro has These Hop-ups:
Upper Carbon-Fiber Deck
Team Orion Big-Block Motor
13T Metal Pinion
Team Orion Flash ESC for Micro RS4
Team Orion 7.2V 1100 Battery
Team Orion Headlights and Backlights kit
planning of fully modify it to the last part :D :D

[french-fry]

Hey, I am looking to get into the micro aspect of the RC hobby, and I was wondering what a good place to buy them online is. Also, what is a good ESC to use, I probably won't be racing any time soon so it doesn't have to be too fancy. Umm, I think that's it.

I have a couple nitro cars (tmaxx and landmax if you must know), but they don't drive too well inside. Err, not that I have tried, but, well...micros are cool!

Thanks for any help,
-Alex

[k_sw31]

Try www.ultimatehobbies.com or www.sheldonshobbies.com they have kits for 80 dollars :D For an esc, i think a novak spy would work great, but you can use almost anything, Heck, i'm running my super rooster in my micro :D

[jkerr0043]

If you're not going to race I'd say the spy maybe overkill. Try the Orion Flash. I'm not too impressed with mine but I'm also looking for the highest performance I can get since I'm racing mine. It's plenty good for playing around with.

[k_sw31]

Ya but they're practically the same price ne ways (well, ith inkn :rolleyes: )

[french-fry]

I guess I feel kinda silly asking this question, but I've never had to deal with it before: Do I have to be a reciever that is the same brand as my radio? I have a JR XR3, and I was just going to get the same one that came with it, but can I get something better? Do I just need to get the same frequency crystal or what. It's weird, but since the Tmaxx i have was RTR and I just used the receiver that came with the radio in my other car I have never been in this situation. Thanks, for the help with where to buy and ESCs. I am going to get the Spy, but I actually ended up ordering from Tower. Granted its more expensive, but I don't pay sales tax at Tower, while the other sites, although less expensive initially, including sales tax actually costs more.

Thanks again,
-Alex

[jkerr0043]

The best receiver for a micro is probably the Novak XXL. Just make sure you get the correct band (27 or 75 mhz) and make sure it's for the same brand radio that you have. The plugs need to match.

[Audi RS2]

Hello fellow RC’ers

Or may be I should not be calling myself a RC’er as I am just getting into the hobby, this is my 2nd attempt. Last year lask of time and reluctance to over pay for the Rcstuff in Europe made me give up. But fortunately not for too long. Now I have opportunity to get stuff from the US (so much nicer prices and larger choice) However I need help from you guys, guys who are so much more experienced. The problem is that I cannot order every 2nd day and it takes about 5 weeks for the goods to arrive. Plus it is about 30bux to send the stuff.

Any way cutting the intro short I would like to buy as much things that might be needed / useful for my micro at one go as possible. Bellow I will list things and their considered alternatives and ask you for your oppinion and suggestions what else I should get. Pls bear with me, I realise that I mught be asking for a lot but I have no LHS to go and ask and buy sth, no local club no local truck NOTHING. As far as I know no1 sells Micros in Poland (this is where I live).

1. RS4 Micro
2. What ESC would you guys recommend, LRP, Novak SPY or which one??
3. Receiver, which one is the best for Micro?? For instance Novak XXL Tower Hobbies say that when buy XXL I also need One single conversion receiver crystal (HRCL29**). One 4.8V receiver battery pack. 75 MHz Transmitter Two servos. DO I need all this??? When I buy for instance the HiTech Lynx 3D
4. Radio and what crystals should I get, I was thinking about HiTech Lynx3D or The Magnum 3PJS FM 3-Channel by Futaba, which one?? DO I need PCM??
5. Which batteries should I get. I understand that I need to buy a pack for Micro (I would buy two packs) Should I go 7.2V as I also want a mod motor. I also need a pack for the reciver right?? Does this pack differs from the pack for the car itself?
6. What servo should I buy???
7. Will I need Deans connectors??? How many??? Any other wires or else???

Now the hop-up’s

1. Chassis, which one is better the Ratzas Pro Pan or Pinguin P3500lm, I guess with the with Penguin I get Upper, Wide Lower, and Rear Chassis Plates, M2.0 Rear Pod Plate, P3506b Low Roll Plate Set (3 Graphite roll plates), P3505 M3.0 G10 Battery Plate. Ratzas have this offer that includes Rat Racer Internet Special $79.95 MRS402 Racer Chassis, MRS404 Replacement Upper Deck, MRS412 Pro Rear Deck (Purple or Blue), VEN1511 7.2volt-1100mah NIMH Micro Battery Pack. Which one is better value???
2. Or should I get Epic???
3. GH Front Ball Differential II this the adjustable version, is it worth getting??
4. Which hop-up engine would you recommend, I would like more punch and speed. I was considering some Team Orion but they look expensive (or may be a good strong motor has to cost that much)
5. Front Universal Dog Bones
6. Rear Ball. Diff Assembly
7. Alum Front Pulley Should I get this???
8. What pinion gear would you suggest??
9. Is there any point in spending my hard earned money on alu. Wheels from Ratzas???
10. Assuming that I have to glue tyres to the wheels, how many sets should I get. I am planning to run my Micro on concrete floor in my underground parking (slippery surface and quite cold) and also in my apartment (mostly wood)?? What rubber hardness should I be aiming for???
11. Should I get TOP Alloy Front Lower Bulkhead

What else should I consider.

I realise that this is a LOT of q’s, but pls understand that I need to order those things in one batch and if I miss something I will have to wait another 5 weeks at least. SO I need to make sure that I buy everything I need to enjoy my Micro.

THANK YOU FOR ANY ANSWERS AND HELP
:) :) :)

[Aluma]

you really dont need many hopups.... the penguin is better though because the motormount has replaceable/tunable holder or mount whereas the ratzas is attached to the chassis, so if it breaks you need a new chassis.

you will need a front oneway or ball diff( your preference)
as far as the motor just get a Graupner speed 300 (15 bucks)
and a ARMS motor mount (5 bucks)

batteries, you can get away with just a straigth or block receiver pack of any brand....just put on deans or hpi plugs.

anything else is just gravy :D

[ronbeck]

audio rs2
wow planning on one huge order :D

1.have and enjoy the penguin chassis regular setup. but thinking of ordering the 3500lm chassis.
2.would go with the 7.2v packs most speed long run times.
3.the orion elite mod motor long lasting and almost no matinance.
3.i run a ko propr ksc-100fr esc it's a inch square, not motor limit for micro's and can run 16t mod for 1/10 scale. has reverse delay and lock out.
4. softest tires and 100 grit sandpaper to break in. i run concreat and hard wood.
5. haven't used any of the other mod items you listed
but would suggest extra belt, srew set, front knuckles(or aluminum), wheel nuts.
hope this helps a little

my micro
penguin 3500 chassis
orion elite stock
orion pro 6.v pak
med tires front softest rear
150 gmc truck body(changing to modena)
xr2 radio and 125am rx(changeing to xr3i fm three model mem)
gpm rear pod purple
gpm motor heat sink pruple
hpi front one way diff
gpm front aluminum pully purple
penguin servo mount
hpi tie rod kit
:D

[Techno Duck]

I have a few quetions regarding the Micro RS4.

1. Can the Novak SPY ESC handle the HPI Modified 45T Motor?

2. Is this a good combonation to use with the Team Orion 7.2V Micro Pack NiMH?

Any suggestions on what else i could use?

[ronbeck]

t. duck
the only limit for the spy i could find is 280 size rs4 micro motors.

[Jason C]

That combination will work. There is also the LRP Quantum Micro designed for the same purpose. However, if you are concerned with burning out the ESC, I suggest you get a regular Quantum as they are designed for 540 motors. I have a Quantum Reverse in my Micro and it performs flawlessly.

[gaus]

I run my car with a Novak SPY and a Peak Wind motor and an Orion 7.2v pack. I am still having fun and actually think that for what I do, this car is too fast sometimes. (I run it in an almost empty cement parking garage, late at night.) Also, the local skateboard park area is plenty fun, though a bit brutal on the car at times.

gaus

[Techno Duck]

Im just curious, how much faster would the Peak Performance Turbo Coreless Micro Modified and Peak Performance Chubby Micro Modified run compared to the HPI Modified 45T motor. Which motor would you recommend? Is their enough of a difference to fork over the extra 10-20 dollars for the Peak Peformance motors? What would you recommend.

[pchan]

Team Orion BB/ Speed 300/ Peak Chubby all the way, the best motor for micro.

[microrcdude]

Ok, i am going to make a drag car out of my micro, and i want to know what to use!

any ideas would help.

[Im2lazy]

Techno duck, those motors you are referring to are very different. But they cost more than the HPI modified motor for good reasons.

1 that modified motor is like the Team orion one. its coreless, ( my bad about the brushless part Iwas late...actually early) has phenomenal torque! however it has slightly lower rpms than the HPI, but you can gear it up to be faster. The HPI would get too hot if you gear too high. Also this motor has an actually longer runtime than the HPI modified. This is my ideal pick...
But...
2. for someone like microrcdude, the chubby, otherwise known as the team orion Big block or Graupner speed 300, delivers much greater speed, torque and overall power. the price is that you will get about 12-20 minutes per run. you'll also have to bore out pinions in order for them to fit the fat motor out put shaft.

For the ultimate micro drag car, you might think about a micro switch like the big rc drag cars use. You would have to chose your motor wisely though because the switch would dump a lot of power into the motor. But it would be unbelievably cool. you also would not need as many cells which would mean that the chassis would be lighter. Also Two wheel drive frees up the drive train dramatically, but you would definitely need an esc to control the power, but 2wd is definitely faster in every respect compared to 4wd.

my bad about the brushless part...it was late... actually early :rolleyes: hows 4:49 (am) sound:rolleyes: I slipped up big time. The airplane brushless speed 300 setups cost around 250-300 dollars. not great for cars though.

[JR in NC]

Having trouble with the antenna, if I try to keep the antenna external it raises the CG and the car has a tendency to roll. Internally I get signal glitches.Anyone got a suggestion. We race indoors on industrial carpet, lots of static electricity on an oval track.
I'm using a Modena body, but may go to a Vette body that's not as top heavy. Any help would be great!!!!


JR

[Scrad]

You could try the little titanium antennas that HPI makes. If you flip with it, they tend to roll you back over upright.

[microrcdude]

thanks a ton. what batts should i use?

[OskiO]

I've got my new body mounted and ready for the next journey to the track. Not much on this micro is stock. Got to love it!

thanks to the Dr. for the awesome airbrush job!

C

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Im2lazy
Techno duck, those motors you are referring to are very different. But they cost more than the HPI modified motor for good reasons.

1 that modified motor is like the Team orion one. its coreless, uses no brushes and has phenomenal torque! however it has slightly lower rpms than the HPI, but you can gear it up to be faster. The HPI would get too hot if you gear too high. Also this motor has an actually longer runtime than the HPI modified. This is my ideal pick...


The Elite Mod is coreless but not brushless. They are tottaly different. A brushless motor system will cost you about $300 for the motor and esc to be able to run it. Insane speed, torq, and runtime. The ultamite motor if you ask me but not to many people are willing to lay down $300 for a motor and esc for their micro. :)

[k_sw31]

Ya, I think I have heard of someone useing a brushless (bl) setup, in a micro before, but, unless you are going for all out speed, it wouldn't be practicale. They have so much torque an rpms that over a short period of time, the belt would snap, you'd need to use super sticky slicks for tractions, but you'd be going through tires at a furious pace, and who needs to go 50 mph in a micro, they just were not ment to go that fast. But hey, that would be a cool project :D

[ultimaxxracer]

im plannin on getting an micro rs-4 and i was wondering if my LRP V7.1 would fit on the micro chassis

[Jason C]

It should. If you stick with the stock chassis, you'll probably have to park either the ESC or the reciever on the rear deck for everything to fit.

[ultimaxxracer]

thanx


what motor should i put in it

[k_sw31]

Yes you can fit that esc, heck, you can fit a super rooster in :D

For motors, I found a compromise is the 45 turn modified motors, if you are running 4 cells they are great for indoors, and great in open outdoor places with 6 cells. Of course if you want insane speed go with a big block, they are REALLy fast. :D

[ultimaxxracer]

if i got the big-block what hop-ups would i have to get for the tranny

[k_sw31]

DEFINATLY-metal pinions gear, get this no matter what motor you are using, other than that, you may want a front one way diff, i haven't heard of any other problems in putting a big block in, other than you go through tires pretty quickly, and you need to make sure you have a 150 mm wheelbase.

[jkerr0043]

Why do you have to have a 150mm wheel base to run a big block?

[k_sw31]

Well, if you look on a 140 mm wheelbase, there is hardly any room between the stock motor and the battery. And since the big block has a significantly larger circumfrance, there will not be enough space between the motor and the batteries, and since the 150 mm wheelbase has the rear axle stuff moved back, you have enough room to use the BB. Hope this makes sense.

Also- It's really easy to convert to 150 mm, all you need is a new belt, to move 2 screws, and a new body, thats about it. :)

[Im2lazy]

150mm setup is also more stable... a good thing when your car is going so much faster when using a big block.;)

[k_sw31]

Ya :)

[ultimaxxracer]

thanx

[k_sw31]

No prob :)

[Im2lazy]

Does anyone else run two wheel drive? If you run four wheel drive, could you tell me why? I have been using this car for about and found it most pleasant and ecxiting to drive when it was two wheel drive.

Just your opinion why you run 4wd.

[tonylukes]

Im having trouble finding white dish wheels, I know they exist because gpm and Megatech make them, any idea who has them though?

thanks!

tonylukes

[Aluma]

well, i put in the big block and tried that 2 wheel drive thing cuz it busted my front diff first time out...boy was it horrendous to drive!
anything over 5% throtle made it spin out. and braking was a joke...spin city.

[k_sw31]

I run 2wd in my micro, I personally like it a lot better. There is a lot less drag on the drivetrain, so I get longer runtime, everything stays cooler, and I get more speed :D

Oh yeah, i have driven my friends micro with a big block, it is INSANE!! It is just impossible to drive, The max i run 2wd is 6cells with a 45 turn motor :)

[Ford850]

Can anyone tell me the speed of a stock micro and the average speed of a micro with mods?

Thanks

[Im2lazy]

well the stock speed of the micro is hella slow... something like 11-13 mph. with a six cell pack its like 19 mph. I don't have any other official numbers though.

I run a 5cell 45turn in my two wheel drive. I'm gonna get a six cell when my battery pack has seen too many hours of driving. Its starting to slowly die.

I hope I can handle the six cell b/c my racing surface ( backyard pool porch) is slick and only 36 feet long, but I haven't had problems before. I use an 8 tooth pinion, and thought it was too slow even with two wheel drive. 4wd, I need a 12 tooth and it is still slower than my 2wd w/ 8tooth pinion, while the motor was five times hotter (slight exaggeration;)). So 2wd its been for me since then.

[k_sw31]

I run a 9tooth w/ four cells (aa's) and I find it gives me the perfect balance of torque and speed, i think when i upgrade to 6 cells i will go to either a 10 or an 11 toothe pinion, SPEED BABY! :D

[Im2lazy]

That's kind of slow compared to your friends car yes? Iwouldn't be able to stand it.:(
Do you have a ball diff, b/c 2wd drive isn't worth it if you don't.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Im2lazy
well the stock speed of the micro is hella slow... something like 11-13 mph. with a six cell pack its like 19 mph. I don't have any other official numbers though.

I run a 5cell 45turn in my two wheel drive. I'm gonna get a six cell when my battery pack has seen too many hours of driving. Its starting to slowly die.

I hope I can handle the six cell b/c my racing surface ( backyard pool porch) is slick and only 36 feet long, but I haven't had problems before. I use an 8 tooth pinion, and thought it was too slow even with two wheel drive. 4wd, I need a 12 tooth and it is still slower than my 2wd w/ 8tooth pinion, while the motor was five times hotter (slight exaggeration;)). So 2wd its been for me since then.

I have a cell in my micro and with the medium size(11T?) pinion I only got 10mph:(

Oh well Im going to get a BB now that my stock motor is going.

[tphss]

I have a 140mm Micro with Viper body
and i made some mod's so i can use a big block motor, it works.

[RS4rally1124]

if i go with a brushless will a 280 size motor fit.

i am also going to make a micro rail drag car what should i use for the chassis


JT

[Scrad]

I saw in the RCCA mag that Bolink has a micro rail dragster coming out.

[k_sw31]

I think these (http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/10_series.htm) will work
be sure to email them and double check that they will fit, and get info for the right controller. :) Remeber, you cant used regular esc with BL motors.



That's kind of slow compared to your friends car yes? Iwouldn't be able to stand it. Do you have a ball diff, b/c 2wd drive isn't worth it if you don't.

It is a lot faster than it was with 4wd, but the reason i made it 2wd is because i kept getting debris caught in the front diff pulley every few minutes, it was really pissing me off. :mad: Why would i want the ball difff? (i dont have one)

[jnegrx]

I just bought a micro kit. Does anyone have a mod to do before i build it. Any tips?
Also i saw here a Toyota GT-ONE body, where can i get it? Is it 150mm or 140mm?

[k_sw31]

Well, the two things I wouldn't have a micro without would be a metal pinion and a servo mount of some kind, THAT SERVO TAPE SUCKS!!!!!! :mad: Oh, um.. well, other than the basics of trimming burrs off etc., thats I i'd wanna do.


Oh yea, when you put the little 'foam inserts' on, dont use the edges guidlines; just put them in the center of the rim, but that ain't real important anyways.:)

Night yall

[Scrad]

You can get the Toyota body at www.teamspeedster.com or you can get it direct from www.americanracingmodels.com. It's a 150mm body.

[Scarab RC]

I'm sure you guys have been over this a million times but if you could let me know everything I need to do to install a Team Orion Big Block in my Micro RS4 I would appreciate it.

Scarab

[tphss]

i just installed one
if your using the 140mm settings you need to do some stuff with your own creativity, if using 150mm setting's you dont need anything but a screwdriver

[k_sw31]

Another reason why 2wd is so cool, All it takes to adjust the wheelbase is to take out and move 3 screws:D

[PCC]

Originally posted by Scarab RC
I'm sure you guys have been over this a million times but if you could let me know everything I need to do to install a Team Orion Big Block in my Micro RS4 I would appreciate it.

Scarab

Get the bigger pinions. I'm running 6 cells and with a 14T pinion it's still peeling out! The recommendation to trim the rear diff housing is not needed because you shouldn't worry about running the smaller pinions.

[k_sw31]

Yes, definatly get a bigger pinion, my brother's micro w/ a big block and a 13 tooth pinion on 4 cells is almost uncontrollable on hard wood floors. :) I suggest you use the biggest metal pinion you can find :)

Also, you may want to consider an after market front diff, as I have heard of some people blowing out their diffs w/ big blcoks.

[Scarab RC]

I was going to go with the GH front one-way diff and GH alum. output drive shafts. The track I will be racing at is for 10th scale so a one-way front diff is a better option for me.

Scarab

[Aluma]

not necessarily... TIRES are what make a HUGE difference in your cars handling....evenmore so than a oneway or front diff. At first I didnt believe it...how could tires make such a big difference, but i tried some combinations of kit tires and team orion soft tires. I ran kit front, soft rears and the car kept turning circle everytime I gunned it. had to limit steering to almost nothing to go in a straight line. then ran soft front, kit rears... much better cuz it induced understeer...now i could put full steering back in and it would launch perfectly straight...handles really nice! get a set of kits and softs then try them out at your track. if its a large track you probably dont need much steering so you're better off with the front ball diff.

[Scarab RC]

Front ball diffs are for tight twisty tracks. Front one-ways are for open fast tracks. I've noticed the opposite with the tires. If I don't have wide soft tires on the back then my car just 360's everywhere. I am running standards or mediums on the narrow fronts.

Scarab

[jkerr0043]

one word on tires FOAMS!!:D

[Aluma]

foams...dont they wear out really fast? I used to use them on my nitro cars and they only lasted a couple of runs...but I still have the original rubbers on my micro and i use it everywhere an have run it many many times :D

Hey scarab, i thought it was the other way around....oh well. :D

[jkerr0043]

Almost any tire on a nitro is going to wear out quick. I've probably got 20 runs on my TRC hard foams and they are still handling great and haven't lost too much diameter.

[gometro333]

I'm getting a Micro RS4 for Christmas (a long way away but I like to think ahead), and I was wondering which of the Orion chassis are the best. They all look the same to me. Other than the chassis, what are the best upgrades?

[RJ88]

I'm new to electric cars i've been racing nitro for yrs. I Just bought a micro rs4 kit and the 6v nimh batt pack, do I need a special charger for those batteries or can I use a charger from my t-maxx elect starter? What is the best charger for nimh that wont break the bank?

[jkerr0043]

MRC Super Brain 959

[Im2lazy]

I run two wheel drive and the tire selection is critical to performance. Weight distribution is also important, but if it is close to optimal, your tires make the rest of the difference in the handling deparment.

Foams don't really wear out fast, its the chunking part that is bad. Especially on our small, little and lightweight cars, foams should be fine (depending on your track surface). I've seen well kept foams last as long as long lasting rubber tires. The problem, we'll run into with foams is we can't use a tire truer to fix tire wear and chunking.

[Im2lazy]

Originally posted by gometro333
I'm getting a Micro RS4 for Christmas (a long way away but I like to think ahead), and I was wondering which of the Orion chassis are the best. They all look the same to me. Other than the chassis, what are the best upgrades?


The team orion chassis are okay, but the Team Epic and Penguin chassis' are the best (most tunable) available now, imo.
Upgrades that are good would be a small (metalgeared) servo, new motor, replacement diffs, racing compound tires, spring set and pinions.

[gometro333]

Thank you soooo much!!

[gometro333]

Thank you soooo much!!

[Jason C]

I personally think the Team Orion chassis are more for eye candy than for pure performance. The cooling fan is really not necessary and just adds weight and takes up space. Pan chassis are best as they allow placement of all components on the lower deck so the CG is as low as possible. Ratzas also makes a nice chassis with a fully adjustable rear pod suspension.

[jkerr0043]

Ratzas Pro Pan Chassis w/ the pro rear deck. I also like the Epic but you have to use a specific servo with it.

[Scomp87]

chassis.... why not make your own? Thats what I've been doing all day today. I got the 12 press working now all I need is to lay the carbon fiber in the press and cut it out after it has been impregnated with resin! Wish me luck!

ohyeah, i'm aiming for an epic style pan

[gometro333]

I would make my own if I had the equipment. Post pics of your chassis.

-Matt

[Scarab RC]

I just installed my new Ratzas Pan Chassis. I would love to know how you guys mount your receiver, ESC and a 7.2 volt 1100 mah battery on the lower chassis and not go over the sides of the chassis and not rub the drive belt. Please let me know.

Scarab

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Im2lazy
I run two wheel drive and the tire selection is critical to performance. Weight distribution is also important, but if it is close to optimal, your tires make the rest of the difference in the handling deparment.

Foams don't really wear out fast, its the chunking part that is bad. Especially on our small, little and lightweight cars, foams should be fine (depending on your track surface). I've seen well kept foams last as long as long lasting rubber tires. The problem, we'll run into with foams is we can't use a tire truer to fix tire wear and chunking.

Hey, what tire setup gives you the best in handling, wear, and traction (i run stock motor and the 45turn)

Thanks

[Scarab RC]

Pictures of the Ratzas Pro chassis setups would also be helpful.

Scarab

[Jason C]

Scarab,

See my pics on pages 16 and 24. My set-up on page 16 is for RWD as the belt is missing and the receiver is mounted a bit more towards the chassis's centerline. On page 24, the set-up is for 4WD and the Rx is mounted a bit out farther and hangs over the chassis's edge a few millimeters.

Basically, I have the battery centered, ESC and Rx on either side. Be careful that you have the chassis well balanced - front to back and left to right, otherwise handling may suffer.


k_sw31,

What surface are you running on? For carpet, I have the kit tires in front and HPI soft ones in the rear. For a parking lot, I have HPI soft tires all around.

[Scarab RC]

Thanks for the pix. What batteries are you running? What are the two countersunk holes in the middle of the Ratzas chassis for? I'm going to mount my RX on its side instead of flat.

Scarab

[Jason C]

I'm runing a pack of 6 Rayovak AAAs. The rectangular shape fits the chassis better. I have no idea what the two holes are for. I make use of them for mounting my pack, which I secure with two shortened screws. It's much better than servo tape or velcro.

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by Scarab RC
I just installed my new Ratzas Pan Chassis. I would love to know how you guys mount your receiver, ESC and a 7.2 volt 1100 mah battery on the lower chassis and not go over the sides of the chassis and not rub the drive belt. Please let me know.

Scarab

You can go to page 32 to see my Ratzas. I have to mount the ESC on the top but if I had a SPY (which I plan on getting soon!) I could mount it on the left side next to the servo.

[Nitro Al]

I just bought a MICRO RS4 Kit and am new to electric :confused: (I run nitro) I need advice for the following...

Since I bought the kit which is the better speed controller buy (A) Novak SPY or (B) Team Orion Flash Micro ESC :confused: ??? I know that the Orion has both brake and reverse and it cost less so I am leaning towards the Orion.

Also what is better to use a micro servo :confused: or a standard servo. I was thinking about getting the HS-81S Micro Servo since all of radio gear is Hitec (I will be running the micro with a LYNX 3D)

I want to buy an after market motor is the big block worth it or do you guys have better suggestions :confused: ? I really am going to use this for fun but I want it to haul butt, and what battery pack should I use :confused: ?

What is an inexpensive charger (I Dont care if I have to charge the packs overnight since I plan to buy atleast two (2) packs.

Sorry for all the questions :)

Thanks to everyone who helps and to those that dont too.

:D Al :D

[jkerr0043]

I'd go with the SPY. The Orion has a very annoying delay in the acceleration and it doesn't seem to have a lot of punch. If you want speed, the big block is the best bet. I run an Orion 6 cell but I think any of the 6 cell, NiMH packs are pretty much the same. I use a MRC 959 to charge my Micro batts and it does fine. It takes about an hour and a half to charge @ 1.5 amps w/ a 10mv delta peak setting. I don't use my Indy 16x5 because of the plugs, but I'm sure it would work better.

[Jason C]

I have an Orion ESC and I think they aren't worth the money. I ended up having a lot of problems with my Flash. If you can afford it, go with either a Novak SPY or LRP Quantum Reverse.

A micro servo is good, but not necessary for play. I use a Hitec HS-85MG - whatever servo you use, I suggest getting one with metal gears as the Micro in kit form lacks a servo saver (one is available from HPI separately). The HS-81 should work fine, but you should get the metal gear set.

If it's speed you're after, then the Big Block is ideal. Other companies sell the same motor under differnt names like Speed 300. If you get this motor (or any other 300 size motor), you'll need a special motor plate to mount it. I think Orion includes the motor plate with their Big Block. If you want to stay with the "standard" size motors, then I recommend the Elite Mod. It is very smooth very torquey, and has excellent brakes (electrics use the motor to provide braking rather than having a disc and calipers). The caveat to this motor is its price - about $40.


You can choose to build your own packs from 2/3 A cells, AAs, or AAAs. Ofna's Brick Pack works great in the Micro due to its compact size, and it comes pre-assembled. A motor's speed comes from how many volts is receives. The more volts, the more speed. When you build/buy your battery pack, be sure it doesn't exceed the ESC's voltage rating or you might end up seeing the dreaded puff of white smoke, signaling the death of your ESC. Just like nitro content in a fuel, higher volts will put more strain on your motor and wear it out sooner. Keep the volts around 6-7.2 and your motor should last for a long time.


Since you're a nitro guy, you probably have some receiver packs lying around. All you need to do is change the plug and you can use the same charger. If you plan to get another charger, Hot Bodies makes a Micro-specific charger that was just reviewed in the December issue of RCCA.

[french-fry]

Lovin this micro stuff!

For those of you with the Big Block and 7.2 V, what kind of run times do you get?

Umm, same question for anyone with Orion Elite Mod and 7.2...

Finally, I think I want to buy the Ratzas Pan Chassis, but I'm curious as to where those of you who have it purchased it. Also, is it just the chassis or does it come with the uppper/rear deck?

Definatley looking forward to more speed out of my micro. I found one of my neighbors has a micro but he's got a Big Block, and Epic chassis, so I want something that will give him a little competition. And when I race him tomorow or the next day, I'm going to get splattered. Me and my completley stock micro that is.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

-Alex

[jkerr0043]

The chassis comes alone. Just the bare chassis. But you can get the upper deck and the rear deck there as well seperately.www.microrcshop.com (http://www.microrcshop.com)

[jkerr0043]

Hey guys, where can I buy a Speed 300 online? I've looked all over and can't find one. I know where to get the Big Block but from what I've heard, the Speed 300 is about a quarter the price and you can get a motor plate for one from ARM for $5. Send me a link to one or something.
Thanks.

[Nitro Al]

Thanks Jason and JKerr, I ordered the spy and an MRC super brain from Tower. I really appreciate the help. I'll let you all know once I get everything together.

One more thing... What is a VCS Schock? Who makes them? what is the advantage? Can the stock chassis use it? and should I get one?

Thanks again

:D Al :D

[french-fry]

Voila, speed 300, least I thnk this is it:


http://www.teamspeedster.com/store/itemDesc.php?itemNumber=GR3306

Wow, i should get one of those too.

Anybody have any ideas on a cheap wall charger. I mean can the superbrain plug into the 120 v socket, or do I need a 12 v power source? Looking to charge NiMH bats for my micro, but I don't want to spend 50 for the charger and another however much they cost for a power source.

Thanks,
-Alex

[Scrad]

yes the super brain is AC/DC. You should also look into the Hot Bodies micro charger.

[Aluma]

if you're looking for packs ... lookit ebay! i just got two 7.2V packs for $20!!! one 1100nimh 2/3 and one 900 nimhAAA for tuning options. :D

[gometro333]

Can anyone tell me the difference between the chassis's by Ratzas and Team Epic (other than a major price difference)?

[jkerr0043]

Epic has more mounting options for batteries and radio gear because of the servo mount. But you have to use a specific servo. They also have a groove in the chassis for the belt. I race with the guys who own team epic. IT's an awesome design and I'll tell you, they're fast!

[gometro333]

In order to install the Team Epic chassis, does it require a lot of modification. I haven't gotten the car yet so I'm not worried about getting the servo and what not.

Thanks for putting up with all my questions.

-Matt

[jkerr0043]

I don't think there's too much modification that needs to be done. I think they tell you on their web site. www.teamepic.net (http://www.teamepic.net)

[InspGadgt]

Well with the Epic chassis the only mod I know of to run the BB motor is to clearance the rear axle tube mount a bit in order to get a small enough pinion to fit.

I'm running the HPI mod motor in my Epic chassis. Love the chassis. It's design and setup make it much easier to work on then most the other chassis out there. The graphite and cutting work on the chassis are superb!. Just watch out on the aluminium rear suspension mount. My first one wasn't drilled straight so the rear pod was crooked. A e-mail to Epic fixed it very quickly. They sent me the replacement suspension plate kit which comes with 2 graphite, 2 fiberglass, and 2 suspension mounts for free along with a bunch of stickers! Thanks Team Epic!

[jkerr0043]

That sounds like those guys. Mike and Orlando are great guys.

[Crashmaxx]

Hey guys! Wasup.

Anyway, I am thinking of getting a micro RS4 for x-mas, just cause it sounds like a fun little rig. Similar to my TC3 in a way, but I think this will be more fun then my TC3 was. I am going to use a XXL reciever with my MX-3 transmitter, a spy ESC, whatever servo I have laying around, and I will make my own packs(4, 5, 6, and 7 cell ones). But I have a few ??.

1.(very important) I am an avid fan of WRC rally racing and love the subaru impreza. Does anyone make an impreza body? If anyone does, I will get a micro RS4 for sure.

2. Does it go well on moderatly thick carpet, not like shag, but not that super short stuff? It would be real fun on rainy days. And how good would it go in pourus street?

3. Overall, how good does it go stock? I don't want to have to spend tons of money on it, but I would be willing to get a few mods down the road.

Thanks.

[Scarab RC]

The Micro RS4 likes smooth surfaces. I wasn't overly impressed with it stock but a 7.2 volt battery pack sure makes that stock motor jump!

Scarab

[k_sw31]

Hmmmm, with that team speedster .com, they have the speed 300 for 15 bux, and, hehe, that 8 cell battery pack, then I could pick up some sticky tires, there is some speed to be had there :D

[gometro333]

Ok here comes another question. Whats the difference between all these different battery packs out there? I realized voltage and stuff but is there a clear advantage other another? And what charger can I get taht will be able to charger all of my different kinds of batteries [ranging from 3000mAH(nimh) to 1500 (nicd)]?

-Matt

[Jason C]

Nitro Al,

No problem. A VCS shock is a shock made by Associated. It uses a small piece of foam as a volume compensating device. VCS stands for Volume Compensating System. You won't be able to fit a standard 1/10 shock on the Micro. We use the VCS Micro shock.
The shock basically replaces the stock undamped spring shock. The shock body is threaded so it allows you to fine tune the pre-load for the track conditions. In my opinion, it gives me better rear traction and it just looks cool.

Here's a link:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2792&P=7

No, the shock will not fit on the stock micro. You'll have to buy an aftermarket rear upper deck with shock mount for it to fit. Ratzas (www.ratzas.net) has a good selection of chassis parts and one even includes the shock with the rear upper deck - a very good deal.

Crashmaxx,

As far as I know, someone has made a WRX body for it, but I really don't remember who did or where you can get one. There has been a number of us rally fans on the HPI board voting for a Micro WRX, so I think we'll probably see one in the near future.

I have berber carpet on my family room and my micro does fairly well on it. Be aware of carpet fuzz and fibers getting wound up in rotating parts.

I wasn't too impressed in stock trim, but after completely overhauling my micro (hardly a stock part on it), it is a blast to drive. Not necessary to add all the goodies, but I was addicted to hopping-up my micro.


gometro333,

There really isn't too much difference in the packs out there. Most of them are either 6 or 7.2 volt and are around 1000 mAh in capacity. More volts gives more speed, but will put more strain on the motor. More mAh will give longer runtimes. It is best to get a pack with the highest mAh rating possible, and a voltage to suit your speed needs.
Novak offers a lithium ion battery rated at 7.8 volts at 1100 mAh. You may need a special charger for the pack. As far as chargers go, any peak charger with variable charge amps will do. I use a Duratrax Intellipeak Deluxe for both my 1/10 packs and Micro packs. Just be sure you keep the charge amps low (around 0.5 - 1.5 A) and monitor the pack's temp. The MRC SuperBrain 959 is pretty good both in performance and price (around $40).

[gometro333]

You have no idea how much you just helped me.

-Matt

[ronbeck]

rad micro sport makes a wrx body no decals but has over spry film. do a googloe search for rad micro sport bodies.
:D hope it helps.
peter

[k_sw31]

Yes, I use a MRC super brain, it works great for both my sub-c cell packs and aa's :) The olny thing is, it lacks a cooling fan, so sometimes it can have horrific false peaking problems :( THe simple remedy is to simply point a room fan at it, plus, you can use the fan for cooling off discharging batts :)

[PCC]

french-fry, where in the SFBA are you?

I have a BB and six cells in my Penguin chassis'd Micro but have never tried timing the pack with this combo. With my stock motor it would dump in about 40-45 minutes.

[french-fry]

Yah I live in over in the east bay, Lafayette, to be precise, but I'm currently attending UCLA so that's where I am 3 quarters of the year. And I have to say this is really the perfect car for dorm life.

If you get a chance I'd really like to know how much runtime you get. I got into nitro cars specifically because i didn't want to deal with running out of juice. And as much as I want speed, it doesn't matter how fast your car is if your battery is dead.

[gometro333]

k_sw31,

Thanks for the info on the Super Brain.

-Matt

[Crashmaxx]

Great! I found the place:
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~jmendoza3/index.htm

I think I will get a micro now.:D

Was also considering brushless for my T3, but I don't think my parents would get me that(again).:o

[gometro333]

Thanks for the site. So guys...can't wait till x-mas cause I'm getting a MICRO!!! BAY BEH!!!!!

-Matt

[Yellow Jacket]

Hi. New to this mini/micro thing and was wondering what would be a better choice for indoor running, chasing the cat, and garage floor when I can't run my other car outdoors in the rain. I don't wanna end up spending $300-400 total for a competative racing micro car just something fun to bash around indoors without damaging floorboard molding and breaking the cat's foot if she happens to get in the way. hehe

[jkerr0043]

I'm not sure what Miniz's go for but a stock micro would be good. If you already have radio gear, $100 isn't bad and 200 for an rtr. That's what I ment to go with before it turned into my "Project"

[Got Speed]

Yellow Jacket- Both are fun but I still like my micro. It's more like a touring car than any other micro/mini. You can get a kit for $80 then you will need a radio and esc. The mini zs are a little cheaper but IMHO(not trying to start an argument) you get more with a micro rs4.:)

My 2cents:D

[Nitro Al]

Is Any One in The Miami Area and if so are there any micro tracks?

Thanks

:D

[gometro333]

If you go to RC Car Action (http://rccaraction.com) there is a track directory and they recently added a little symbol for micro/mini tracks. Check it out, you should be able to find one.

-Matt

[Yellow Jacket]

I think I'll be going with an rs4 micro. I think they look a little more like a real rc race car and if I decide to hop up it will probably be a good bit faster than the mini-z

[Scarab RC]

A stock Micro RS4 will spank a hopped-up Mini-Z. Anyway, what is the general opinion of the Novak Spy Micro ESC? Let me know ASAP because I'm going to buy one this afternoon.

Scarab

[Scrad]

I love my SPY. I've never had a problem with it. So buy one. Go on and geeeetttt.

[Jason C]

Agreed. The SPY is small, light, easy to set up, and has external solder tabs if you need to replace wires. I reccommend it.

[gometro333]

I guess this is more of a general RC question, but is it worth it to buy a radio, like the M8, and program all of your cars to it? I'm thinking about getting one but I wanna see what everyone else thinks.

[Scrad]

I would say yes. I use to run a futaba magnum sport that I got back in the 80's. I never had any problems with the radio untill I got 2 cars and not having a model memory was annoying. So I upgraded to a JR xr3. Just the radio made me a better driver and provided more tuning options to my car. The EPA and dual rate are a big help. So yes a good radio is a wise choice.

[gometro333]

Ok so the next question would have to be, which radio?

[jkerr0043]

I love my M8! It's so easy to setup and to adjust. You never realize how much difference a radio makes until you go from something like a Blazer to an M8.

[Jason C]

I've always been a Futaba guy, so I use a 3PJS. I just don't like how the M8 feels in my hand.... My advice, go try out the different radios before you buy. Comfort is a big factor - a comfy radio just makes it easier to drive better. I'd rather have a comfortable radio with less features than an awkward feeling radio with all the bells & whistles.

Hitec offers the Lynx 3D (with Spectra module) with a Novak XXtra receiver. This gives you all the FM channels in one set and it goes for around $300 - a very good deal. The only thing I dislike about it is the radio itself. The Lynx 3D feels (and looks) cheap (although it functions flawlessly).

[Scrad]

Like the others have said just go and monkey around with some radios. Then get the one you like and the one you can afford. Also check the buy sell section. Someone is always selling a radio.

[jkerr0043]

that's true, comfort is a big part of it.

[k_sw31]

My next radio (i am waiting for christmas :)) will eaither be an MX-3 or a Hitec Aggressor FM :)

[Aluma]

get the mx-3... :D

[k_sw31]

Ya, that is what I have been leaning towards :D...

[Scarab RC]

I'm racing on an indoor asphalt track with my Micro RS4. Is anyone else racing on this surface? And can you provide me with some tips or tricks?

Scarab