HPI Micro RS-4 Forum v1.0

[superspeed]

what's the duration of the race for stock and mod.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by gometro333
I guess this is more of a general RC question, but is it worth it to buy a radio, like the M8, and program all of your cars to it? I'm thinking about getting one but I wanna see what everyone else thinks.

Personally I think the mx-3 is the best deal for the money. The m8 is one of the best radios out there. I have a JR XR-3(got it before the mx-3 came out), it's great. 3 model memory and plenty of features. LOL Id like to know why radios that have EPA also have dual rates. lol if you have epa you don't need dr. Just a though.:p

[french-fry]

Just wanted to post a pic of my car for no particular reason. I guess its really not that great. Its not even painted yet and its completely stock, but oh well:
http://www.bol.ucla.edu/~serriere/micro.jpg
Oh yah, and because everybody's on the radio topic. That's a JR XR3 and it works great. Love the 3 model feature.
-Alex

[gometro333]

Personally, I think cars that aren't painted look pretty nice, to an extent.

Ok, here comes yet another question. What are the most essential upgrades for upgrading preformance?

Also what is teh difference between a "Front One-Way Diff" and a "Front Ball Diff"?

Thanks a bundle.

-Matt

[Jason C]

Upgrades.... How much can you afford to spend? :D

I think tires are the most important upgrade as they are your car's only contact with the ground. It doesn't matter how tricked out your car is if your tire selection stinks - your performance will suffer. If you run on carpet, consider foams. Trinity makes pre-mounted foams and others like HyperTech Racing make donuts. Rubber is best on tarmac/concrete as it lasts longer without chunking. I like to use the kit tires on the front, and soft tires in the rear. I made my own foam tires - extra wide ones in rear so that I get the pan car effect.

Next, a pan chassis is one of the most influential upgrades you can make to improve handling, and it is relatively cheap to do. I know some folks run a full graphite pan chassis complete with upper deck, but I think the upper deck really isn't needed. I run a Ratzas pan chassis without an upper deck, so my Micro is essentially a 1/18 pan car.

Ball diffs are a good idea. They are much smoother than the stock gear diffs and offer more precise diff action. Getting to your question, a front one-way is a type of diff that uses a one-way bearing rather than balls or gears. A one-way is exactly that - it allows the drivetrain to transmit power to the front wheels, but lets them freewheel once off-power. This means you get no braking power to the front wheels, but you have less drivetrain drag when coasting.
It is best to use a front one-way when you are running in a wide open track with sweeping turns and no hairpins. You'll get more on-power steering and faster coasting speeds which is better suited to this track layout. Care must be taken when using a one-way. They put more strain on the driveshafts, so you should upgrade to alloy universals if you plan to get one.

A front ball diff is just a ball diff - the same thing in the front as in the rear. You get the same effect as having the stock gear diffs, but smoother diff action.

A 7.2 volt battery pack and mod motor are good upgrades for more speed. I prefer to build my own packs, but I highly recommend Team Orion's Elite Mod. Also, a micro servo is not bad, but not really necessary. It mostly serves to shave off a few grams of weight. If you want to get one, I recommend the Hitec HS-85MG.

If you got the cash to spend, you can add a lot of pretty aluminum and carbon fiber stuff, but not all of it will be an improvement. Plastic is lighter than metal.

[gometro333]

You have helped sooooo much in deciding which upgrades to get. But I hear that the Big Block or Speed 300 are a better idea than the Elite Modified because you can gear it way up (in Micro standards). Also, what is the difference in all the different brands of chassis? I am leaning towards the Team Epic chassis because it seems to offer the most tunabilty. And does anyone know what servos fit in the Exo other than the suggested HS-81mg?

Thanks for all the help.

-Matt

[Crashmaxx]

Has anyone tried 7cell packs yet? The spy can go from 4 to 7 cells so I was thinking I would make a 7 cell pack along with the others.

[Jason C]

You are most welcome, gometro333. :)

I like the Elite mod because I feel it gives a good balance of speed, torque, and controllability. I have driven a Micro equipped with a Speed 300 (my buddy's car) and it was just too fast (in my opinion). I raced against my buddy and beat him beacuse I was able to keep excellent control of my car. He definately had left me in the dust on the straights, but he often lost control and crashed, or would spin out due to too much power. Of course, there are driver skill variables, but I think you get my point. This is just my opinion. We all have our own driving styles so, "to each, his own".

I don't think there is too much difference in the chassis out there. Most of them are made of woven carbon fiber and have various holes cut out for asthetic purposes, chassis flex, and saving weight. I bought the Ratzas chassis simply cause it was cheap and was exactly what I needed.

The Team Epic chassis is a great choice, but it limits your servo selection. I think a HS-85MG is similar in size to a HS-81MG. The 85 has slightly more torque, but is a bit slower (better suited for my driving style as I feel too fast a servo makes for twitchy steering), and is heavier.

[gometro333]

I'll look into the ratzas chassis. The Team Epic chassis seems like it requires a lot of modification of stock parts (which really doesn't appeal to me;)).

In terms of recievers, I take it size doesn't REALLY matter. I am going with a SPY ESC. Because the Speed 300 is only about $15 online I think I will get one and the motor plate only costs $5. If it's too much power I will save up for an Elite Modified.

-Matt

[jkerr0043]

The Epic does require some modification and the ratzas can just bolt right up. Make sure you set it up for 150mm if you're getting a speed300. I just found that out. I thaught I only needed the motor and motor plate. That turned into a new belt, and body as well.

[PCC]

The Penguin chassis offers some tuning options for the rear suspension. The LM version offers two different options for mounting the batteries (down the middle or saddle) as well as being able to move the batteries around to move the weight forward/back.

[Scrad]

I second the Pengiun chassis. That's what I use and I really love it. Plus you get everything you need at a cheaper price than the Ratzas and Epic.

[nmt6789]

What hop ups should i get for a micro? I know that alot of people have the one way diffs. what motor and esc would be good to use for a carpet setup? Do they make foam wheels for micros? Also i have seen the diffrent micro chassis that team orion makes. Which one is the best?

[Scomp87]

chassis? mine! wheeeee! i just finished it up today gimme untill tommorow to get some pics yeah

[k_sw31]

nmt6789- Well, it depends on what you are doing. I found for racing just with friends etc. You dont really need much. The things you definatly need would be a metal pinion and a servo mount.

Besides tha tyou will probably want soem more power . I would recomend 6 cells with the stock motor, then later upgrade to a 45 turn, it works very well :)

[nmt6789]

So, what battery should i get?? The hpi batteries or team orion. Also what charger can i charge them with?? I have a duratrax intellipeak charger. What motor do you suggest and with what gearing? Also what wires should i use. Does the novak xxl receiver work well with the micro?? IS the spy esc good?

Sorry for the long post

[k_sw31]

try pro-match (http://www.promatchracing.com/micro.htm) batts, i heard they are the best batts around, and pricing is really good. :D You should be good with your intellipeak, but remeber to charge them at around 1.5 amps. At first just run the battery pack with your stock motor (9 tooth pinion) and later if you want more speed upgrage to the hpi 45 turn (same gearing)
I am not sure about the xxl reciever, but i have see na lot of people use them, so they must be good. For wires just pick up some good 18 gauge (well, i personally use 12 gauge from my 1/10th scale cause i like to keep stuff the same) and i heard the spy works great :)

[Got Speed]

Thanks for the link on the batts. Ive seen it before but they didn't have single cells you could buy. I need 6 more now since mine blew up yesterday. lol, the wires crossed on the plug.:rolleyes:

[Aluma]

anyone try the sony flat nicads yet? sort of like the flat ofnas but nicads.

[Aluma]

hey is it me or do the AAA 600mah batteries run out in like 2mins? while the 2/3AA 1100's last 10mins.

Also...this is really weird, my buddy has a 2/3 AA receiver 5cell nimh pack and i have a 4/5 AA 5cell nicd pack, we both run bigblocks, i have a 12t pinion and he's running the 13T pinion(he should have a higher top end)...yet I smoke him off the start and surpass his top speed easily....thing is, my pack is twice the size of his(more weight should be slowing me down.) anyone know what gives?


I also tried a 7.2v 2/3AA nimh pack and I think its pretty much even. how is it that 5cells are better than 6?

[billT]

Aluma, NiCd's have more punch than NiMh, that is the nature of that type of cell/chemistry of them, the NiMh have a more constant power flow/discharge rate, where as NiCd's have a higher ouput for the first 30 seconds then they go down more quickly than NiMh. Also different size cells have different applications. This all varies with mfctrs. also, Sanyo is best in my opinion then you have GP, Panasonic etc.... which will probably not perform as well as 500AR, or 600AE Sanyos which are a high discharge app. cell.

[tonylukes]

I just put a ratzas pan chassis on my micro and was wondering what you guys are using to hold your batteries in place. Im trying velcro right now, but dont really like it. any other good ideas? I think the ratzas has those two screws in the middle of the deck, I could problably make something Id assume to use?

thanks
tonylukes

[Nitro Al]

Question - as a nitro guy I really never deal with soddering batteries together and stuff like that (too complicated and I scared I will ruin stuff) since I just got my micro I was looking for batteries that weren't in the :eek: $30 + range. :eek:

I noticed that ebay has a lot of packs for the micro but it looks like they dont have the plug at the end. What is the solution to this. Do you need ot solder a plug to it or what.

:o Sorry for being ignorant :o but I've only dealt with nitro for the past 5 years so I dont know the difference between a soldering Iron :confused: and a clothes Iron. :confused:

Thanks for all the help. :D

Nitro
:eek:

[tonylukes]

yeah you got it right. The packs on ebay are pretty good, Ive got one myself (the 7.2v 1200 Mah pack, 6 2/3A's). Ive never soldered anything myself like till last weekend when I soldered deans plugs and direct soldered my ESC to my motor. I would recommend using Deans ultra plugs, basically you want to solder a male plug to your esc and a female plug to your battery packs. Also use that charger adapter included in the kit and put a male plug on the micro end of that too (good way to keep your charger standard but still be able to use deans).

Be real careful when using the iron on the plugs, I melted one cause I left too much heat on it. Id recommend doing one wire at a time and letting the plug cool before putting the other wire on. and red is positive (I kept telling myself that the whole time)

good luck!
tonylukes

[k_sw31]

Just zip tie the batts... :cool:

[Scomp87]

heheheehe, the diference between a soldering iron and a clothes iron isn't much.

-They both get really hot
-Soldering irons get hotter
-Soldering irons have tips, like a flattened pen

I use these irons:

(for repairing electronics, it gets hotter and has a poineted tip)
http://www.coopertools.com/main_images/w60p_144.gif

(for making battery packs, cooler, flat tip)
grr i can't find the pic but it has a flat tip

[k_sw31]

Actually, for making battery packs, you want a hotter broad tip, like and 80 watt is about good. You want something hotter so the solder melts more quickly, so the cell doesn't heat up and get damaged.

[Scarab RC]

When you get a stock HPI Micro RS4 you have to ask yourself some questions. What am I going to do with this car? Do you have ANY thoughts of racing? If you DO decide that you may want to race at the local track in the Micro class, that changes a whole lot about what you should hop up on your Micro. I race at the local track and this is what I've found out after wasting money on stupid hop ups:

Weight is your enemy. Stick to stock plastic or carbon fiber/graphite whenever possible. METAL PARTS ARE HEAVEY!

Run 7.2 volt battery packs. Much more power than 6.0 volts.

If you're racing, a 1100 mah battery pack is stupid. Qualifiers and Mains are only 5 minutes (usually). You only need enough battery power to last 5 minutes. a 270 mah or even a 600 mah pack is PLENTY and reduces weight drastically.

A micro servo is a must for weight and space needs. Hitec servos ARE CRAP! Spend the money one time on a JR Z3550 or Futaba S9602 and buy the HPI servo saver kit. The toe adjustments really come in handy when you're racing.

Micro ESC and Receivers are REALLY small and light and help evenly distribute weight and save space.

Tight track = One-way front diff. These make your drivetrain extremely efficient and dramatically reduce drag and speed/power robbing friction.

Open track = ball front diff

Softer front springs will give you more steering. I wasted money buying the HPI extra spring kit. The springs are stiffer than the stock ones and make your car understeer through the turns. I went back to stock springs after three laps.

150mm wheelbase is a must for a more stable car.

Anyway, the message is: Determine what you're going to do with your Micro before you buy anything for it. If you're just bashing then get all the pretty metal you want and three 1100 mah batteries for runtime. If you're going to race, I urge you to consider what I've written above. I'd love you hear your thoughts and any racing tricks you use or have learned.

Scarab

[Scomp87]

yes i realize that hotter is better so it goes faster, but my other soldering iron is way too hot, i ruined a pack or two with it

[Heavy Throttle]

How do you charge the battery packs? I have the Integy 16x3 Pro 2.5 and would like to get the promatch micro 7.2v batteries. Can this charger charge these packs? It says nothing in the manual about charging a pack of this type? I know there new charger says it will do micro packs (16x4).

Thanks!!

[Scrad]

If you can adjust the amps to 1.5 or less then it will charge the packs just fine. You will just have to make a adapter to charge them.

[Heavy Throttle]

Yes my charger will go down to 0.5 if needed. So no problems then charging the packs this is even better news to get one...

[Jason C]

Sounds like good advice, Scarab. The only thing I disagree on is the use of the one-way diff. I'd use it on open tracks as you don't have to brake as much (one-ways are notorious for causing spin-outs) and can carry more speed through the turns. Use the front ball diff for the tight track, since you keep 4 wheel braking.

[Heavy Throttle]

What servo would you recommend. I hear a micro above and the kit states a standard servo. I'm not really gona race (never know), but would like to keep it as light as possible from the get-go. Will any "micro" servo work or only certain kinds?

I also plan on using the Novak Spy and Novak XXL for my electronics, and start with the AA rechargables I have, and then eventually step up to the 7.2 packs. Sound like a good setup to start off with? Any valuable hop-ups I should consider buying before building it?

Thanks!!

[jkerr0043]

first thing I'd get is a motor. Peak wind or HPI 45 turn, if you're just bashing.