Kyosho TR-15

[aus jd 2703]

i put stadium trucks on a body and now need a 12t or 11t pinion to get the gaering back any idea's???

[donny]

Hello everyone,

I´ve had my TR-15 rally version lying in my room for awhile. A few days ago I started the engine no problem a small fiddle and spent the whole day today driving and messing around with it. I had so much fun I started to wonder why I haven´t been using it. The only problem I had is when the engine warms up it stalls easily when braking from full throttle. I´ve got to check the plug and so on. Still i´m very happy to see that other TR-15 people is still messing around. Got to go to the LHS tomorrow and check for hop-up parts.

Let´s keep this forum busy..... :)

[gigacrush]

you need to tighten your throtle stop screw and that will stop the stalling prob

[aus jd 2703]

no i found replace the clutch bearing with actuall ball bearings help cure stalling but mine only stalled after heavy breaking other wise gigacrush is right bring the idle up.

[venter22]

hey i was just wondering if a HPI ENGINE - .15FE Nitro Star would fit my tr-15 stadium truck and if any mods would need ot be made to make it fit lol. My engine seems to alwayes come loses sumhow and that causes it to move around and when it comes in contach with the spur gear it has created a flat spot a couple of times and forced me to replace it..any tips??

[venter22]

hey i was just wondering if a HPI ENGINE - .15FE Nitro Star would fit my tr-15 stadium truck and if any mods would need to be made to make it fit lol. My engine seems to alwayes come loose sumhow and that causes it to move around and when it comes in contac with the spur gear it has created a flat spot a couple of times and forced me to replace it..any tips?? :confused:

[aus jd 2703]

um replace the engine mounts lol i made my own i think 8mm ally and 3 holes in each just use calipers to measure centre to centre then cut

[venter22]

hey again would this engine fit a tr-15 stadium truck and which engine mounts would i need to get fot it to fit on the chassis

[aus jd 2703]

THERE is only one set of engine mounts listed or maybe two and i thought all .12 .15 .18 engines had same bolt paterns so im lost u tell me if any work

[acschurr]

hey i was just wondering if a HPI ENGINE - .15FE Nitro Star would fit my tr-15 stadium truck and if any mods would need to be made to make it fit lol. My engine seems to alwayes come loose sumhow and that causes it to move around and when it comes in contac with the spur gear it has created a flat spot a couple of times and forced me to replace it..any tips?? :confused:

Best tip to avoid this: loctite on the engine mount screws.

[lowlander69]

I've had the Stadium Force for about three months now and I haven't been able to find any forums that mention it more than briefly. This forum is exactly what I've been looking for. I haven't read all of the posts so I won't ask questions yet. I will say that the Stadium Force is a blast and I will try to provide input whan I can.

[jackal575]

wow its been a long time since posting in this thread :p well my tr-15 has definatly changed shape since then i dont have a digicam here but i will post pics tomorrow hop-up list:
OS 18 cvr-x
hard chassis (gold)
42T spur, 18T clutch bell
wide wheelspan kit
harder springs at front
3 shoe aluminium clutch
dirt hawg 2 tires
ball bearings all round
blue aluminium servo horns (lost one but getting another :D)
Tuned pipe - high end
Heavier shock oil
Steel brake disk
and probably more which i cant think of now

[jackal575]

here are the pics as advertised
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a170/jackal575/911cdfda.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a170/jackal575/4c7917f1.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a170/jackal575/d120c43d.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a170/jackal575/c6b9e621.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a170/jackal575/d5f413be.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a170/jackal575/f8ddcd74.jpg
and here are some stock photos to compare
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a170/jackal575/b4edcb4b.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a170/jackal575/11784bc8.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a170/jackal575/bbb91887.jpg

[aus jd 2703]

hows it drive with all that gearing

[1stxrunner]

I was just wondering if anybody knew anything about the new TR15 Stadium force Readyset http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/products/car_bike/gp_tr15/gp_tr15rally/stadium_fresyset/stadium_fresyset-e.html I was just wondering since this was coming out does this mean I can get parts agin for my stadium force?? If so where??

[jackal575]

hows it drive with all that gearing

very well lol its fast and chews up diff gears alot but they are quite cheap so i think its worth it. its calculated speed is 60 mph but doesnt seem tht fast lol. handles well but turning circle is too big for my liking. but whatever, its a great bug :D

[aus jd 2703]

buy the steel gears oh i checked out the new stadium truck it got oil diffs and a differnt upper arm and centre diff as well as servo saver and front bulk heads as well as different motor

[1stxrunner]

So are all those parts going to be available seperate from the kit?? Thats pretty much everything I have broke or needs replaced on mine but can't find any of those parts. Everybody says they have been discontinued. (incuding Tower)

[aus jd 2703]

thats because kyosho now ships to ameria direct they have their own warehouse so check tht out (im an australian so that doesnt affect me :)) jackal575 how doe the three shoe aluminium clutch go and how much did it cost and what else do u need to ugrade to it??

[aus jd 2703]

hey jackal just noticed all yoour loose wiring have u fixed it? CAUSE U CAN FIT it all down beside the reciver to get it out of the way

[jackal575]

lol i cant be botherd to fix the wiring too much hassal and i dont want to put it all in a bunch cuz it could cause interference (cuz of em fields produced by the wires) and i havnt had a chance to run it since getting the chassis and the clutch cuz i still dont have a replacment pullstart :mad: im in a bit of a financial crisis at the moment. i would have bought the steel diff gears but they are about $80 on tower

[aus jd 2703]

lol im kinda lucky a got4 hobby stores near me all with decent range so i dont know the feelling

[lowlander69]

What shock springs are good replacements for the stock springs on the Stadium Force? The Kyosho replacements range from 40 to 80 (spring rate?), I think. I have no clue what rate the stocks are but they are way soft IMO. I changed to 50 wt shock oil and that helped, but stiffer springs seem to be in order. Maybe 60/70, front/rear, respectively?

[aus jd 2703]

depends on what handling qualities u want soffter equals grip but can also mean sluggish steering so maybe get some on the high side of the scale

[mexican-bum]

I have a tr-15 and haven't broke anything ....yet. But I burned up the stock clutch on the 4th tank, I had an extra clutch out of another old kyosho car through it in there and 3 tanks later burnt it up. I have now realized I only burn the clutches up in the grass so staying out of the grass I guess. I really enjoy it, been racing my brothers CEN fun factor and his friends Revo. They totally kill me on the straight aways but I have actually won a couple races with them due to this little buggy turns well, and they keep breaking LOL

I was wondering will clutch shoes off a MP 7.5 work on a tr-15? I have been told yes they would but want to be sure?

[aus jd 2703]

you need the upgraded clutch check out
www.kyosho.co.jp
look unders cars and bikes go the tr-15 series and then option parts and select other ull see it

[acschurr]

I have a tr-15 and haven't broke anything ....yet. But I burned up the stock clutch on the 4th tank, I had an extra clutch out of another old kyosho car through it in there and 3 tanks later burnt it up. I have now realized I only burn the clutches up in the grass so staying out of the grass I guess. I really enjoy it, been racing my brothers CEN fun factor and his friends Revo. They totally kill me on the straight aways but I have actually won a couple races with them due to this little buggy turns well, and they keep breaking LOL

I was wondering will clutch shoes off a MP 7.5 work on a tr-15? I have been told yes they would but want to be sure?


Yeah, the stock clutch on the TR-15 is renowned for being pretty rubbish. I burnt mine out on the first tank after break in!!

It's a pretty standard size, so it's easy to get a new one from your LHS. Cheap too...

[1stxrunner]

I am running an HPI racing clutch in mine. It fit with no problems or modifacations. Just went right in place of the stock one and have not had a problem yet! Not only that I have seen this clutch at just about every HS I've been to.

[mexican-bum]

do you guys recommend an aluminum clutch? They have one for $7 that looks the same, just want to know if it would be a good clutch?

[aus jd 2703]

aluminium clutch i dunno ive haerd people say they got the most grip but dont last long although they were talkin gabout 1/8th scale it should still apply
once i get my tourer up and running (tl-01) im either gonna buy a shumacer mi2 or put a cvr 18 new exhaust aluminium clutch and the wide suspension with some proline wheels along with a few little things but im 16 and money is scarce so i cant see this happening be fore march next year and buy the look of it me and my dad are looking at starting to mod his car(mitsubishi magna) nt sure if u get this one in usa but its a 4 door sedan with 3lt v6 so im kinda keen to start a few new peojects

[aus jd 2703]

do you guys recommend an aluminum clutch? They have one for $7 that looks the same, just want to know if it would be a good clutch?

i got bored this morning and thought id look around for a 3 shoe clutch and i found something better a 4 shoe clutch i hade a look at the crank it backs onto and it looks sweet but u will need a new clutch bell which isnt so bad as the stock one isnt flash id put some bearings on the pilot shaft but looks like itll fit anything with a standard crank (gs-15r os 18cv tz series etc.) so check it out it might be cheaper than the standard kyosho version
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD217&P=7
u may need to shim it around a lil but thats straight forward
good luck if ya get the new clutch (either) make sure u tell us how it goes

[aus jd 2703]

any one doin much with there tr-15

[1stxrunner]

I am trying to find away to get mine started!!! The pull starter broke and I cant find anyone with a new one or even a used one. So if anybody knows who or where I can find anything to get it started PLEASE let me know. I am running the GS.15. Thanks, Eric

[aus jd 2703]

hey man just buy a rotory starter???

[lowlander69]

depends on what handling qualities u want soffter equals grip but can also mean sluggish steering so maybe get some on the high side of the scale

Followed your advice on the springs and now shes much better on suspension. I have noticed that the engine is running some high temps, >300. I've checked everything for air leaks and found nothing. Any suggestions on the obvious that I may be missing. Thx.

[mdbeachy]

Does anyone know of an online hobby shop that sells parts for these. It seems that Tower Hobbies wil no longer be carring parts.

[lowlander69]

Does anyone know of an online hobby shop that sells parts for these. It seems that Tower Hobbies wil no longer be carring parts.

I've ben getting parts for the Stadium Force from kyoshousa.com

[mdbeachy]

Maybe I'm not looking in the right place but I haven't been able to find any listing for parts for the tr-15 on kyosho's website

[lowlander69]

Maybe I'm not looking in the right place but I haven't been able to find any listing for parts for the tr-15 on kyosho's website

Call the 1-800 number and give them the part numbers you need. They have most of the items in stock with reasonable shipping.

[aus jd 2703]

any one know whats useable of the new rtr tr-15's and the old kit versions it looks interesting??

[astronotus]

Hi

I have owned a tr15 for about 1 and a half years now i had it running for about 2 weeks then broke part no114 of the front bulk set and part no11 of the suspension arm set waited about 2 weeks for the parts to be orded in replaced them and took it out again this time cracked the petrol tank had a spare from an old car luckly it fit so put it on and went out again and cracked this one about 30 mins later so i brought a new one and its been ok since then about 2 months later for some reason the piston and piston arm cracked to pieces so i decided to make a trip to the shop for a new engine the fella told me that the ( os max .15cv ) would fit on alls i needed was the optional engine mounts for the tr15 so i brought them 2 but still to this day im trying to get it

on as the back gearbox and joint stop the engine from getting into its postion also its a long sharft engine and the gsr15 was a short sharft so the flywheel hits the centre bulk head also the engine mounts arnt high enough for the engine so i have to put washers on it to rise the engine anyway i have been thinking and here are a few idea`s of how i can get it on let me no what use think and any other idea`s please

I m thinking Take the pull start off and get one of those motor type starters so it doesnt hit gearbox and joint and if enough room move the engine back abit so its got the flywheel room but if it doesnt have enough room i could get the sharft cut smaller also i was thinking about taking the washers off the engine mounts and cutting the chassis so the little extra lenght of engine goes below the car

thanks
paul

[jackal575]

i had the same problem with my tr-15 and the 18cvrx. i moved the engine as far away from the diff. as possible. there was alot of trial and error involved but it worked. heres a pic
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a170/jackal575/8d7f12d0.jpg
if you dont want to move the center gearbox (better if you dont), you can switch to a 42/18 spur/pinion ratio which gives taller gearing which your 15cv can handle. i did this and it makes life easier for me cuz the 42t spur is much easier to find than the stock 39t here. the part number is TR-16 for the 42t. and if u cant find it around, i could send you a couple. any 18t clutch bell and bearings will work.

the clutch im using is a 3 shoe alum. i havnt had a chance to test it yet but it should be good. its part number TRW7 and can be found here: http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_info.php?cPath=2_20&products_id=3712&osCsid=62530ac29cc4c26e205aa1ca41f583bb

if any one cant find any kyosho parts, i can buy and send them on (ill scout prices and come back to you first) they are cheaper here and i can find many kyosho parts which you wouldnt find in the us. just give me a pm and ill see what i can do.

[astronotus]

Thanks for the reply buddy

I got it on the other day i changed the pullstart to a smaller one and custom made the centre bulkhead i was running it in today and fried a clutch so im looking for a better one at the momment i live in australia and things cost alot more here and are harder to get the car cost me $590 with no servo`s and controller as i already had that its all stock as it came apart from the engine i just put on i will be getting the bearing kit next week also im planing on doing a few other things a 2spd gearbox if it can take it and a few others

thanks
paul

[jackal575]

ouch $600 either aus or us is painful. you might be better off ordering off the internet if its tht costly. its a shame tower hobbies has discontinued the tr-15 and its parts cuz it was about $275 i think. i bought mine for about $140 from the lhs. i wanted a two speed b4 but i heard tht i couldnt go off-roading or jumping with it (which is all i use it for really) so i didnt get it and i dont plan to. but if it suits u get it, its worth it. and the bearing kit is worth it too. gd value.

[astronotus]

Hi

Can anyone tell me where to find an online store that still has the bearing kit etc...


Ive only put 2 tanks of 5% run-in fuel threw the engine so far and already fried a clutch and broke a pullstart so im running it without the pullstart at the momment why im working out what im going to do instead of pullstart
i just put the bearing and pullstart on the sharft pull it then remove it and drive the fella at the lhs said it would be ok to do this as all the engine is sealed is he right,also i brought a few spare clutch shoes why im waiting to get the vespel one.

Its only been opened half throttle at the most during running in and it seems to be very quick seems to be going the speed the old engine went at full throttle

Ill post a few pics of my car in a few days


**PAUL**

[philbilldrag]

Have you seen what a TR15 modify to STADIUM FORCE can be
when a crazy dreamer modify everything? :p

It a WANKEL made by O.S with an external gearbox of KYOSHO
super-ten + belt transmission to the center semi-original transmission.
Noise is GORGEOUS :D
Speed is very good
POWER & TORQUE are terrific :cool:
Thursty as well :eek:

When started, everybody comes around.

[rc man37689]

my god ive never seen anything more cramped in my life..... If thats urs like its sounded by the way u described it, u r one imaginative person

[jackal575]

:eek: :eek: I WANT ONE :D

[aus jd 2703]

awsome lol i thought tr-15's were dead lol any videos or more picks

[astronotus]

anyone know an online store that still supplies tr15 optional parts

[astronotus]

actually could some one tell me the size(dimensions) of the bearings u need and how many of each as i can get them cheaper at a bearing shop

Also i was thinking about putting the universal centre shafts in front and back and the universal drive sharft in

thanks
paul

[sir pag]

hey, i finnaly decided to register at this site, anywho ive got a stadium force ive had it for, um since april and at the moment its still going good but i need bearings badly. i read somwhere that if you removed the internal baffel from the muffller it has more power, well i tried this and bloody hell it does, it burns around on the dirt doing donuts and going nuts. But it over heats alot quicker, is there anything i could do to help this? i live in Australia and i am only 16 and have negative money but will be getting a job soon..... i hope, any other additional information would be greatly appreciated......i think i spelt that wrong.

[philbilldrag]

It is normal that it runs hotter with an empty exhaust.
The reason is that there is less pressure to the tank and
due to that the engine runs poor. To stop the problem, you have to
replace the exhaust by a real ( not a factice ) tuned pipe.
The tuned pipe pulls the burn gas out of the engine and suck more fresh air inside the cilinder. After that, it gives at a special moment ( Names says it: TUNED ) a pressure inside the engine when the piston is at bottom dead center. So extra fresh air is compressed inside the engine and hot air is taken away => it refresh the engine and runs cooler while still having pressure in the tank: the work is done !!!!
Do not forget to have a BIG AIR FILTER with no restrictions AT ALL.
Leave the body with many holes and a big one in the wind screen to
let the air go pass around the engine to cool it down.
Do not have anything in the way to have a free flow of air.
The fuel tubes MUST STAY TOTALY AWAY of any heat sources.
Having the fuel close to heat gives erratic runs.

I'm in love with the sound of mine. Bad luck i cannot make a movie or sound.

Have good fun all of you.

[sir pag]

are there any other shocks that i could put on, like ones from a RC10GT or something like that? I want some aluminium ones with rebuildable bits for the 'O' rings cause mine leak, well only the back ones. how much is a tuned pipe roughly? And one more thing, with my car it never idles right is conks out if i let it idle for anything more than 15 to 20 seconds, even if i fiddle with the idle screw i cant get it right. There is a high posibility that it is caused by the crappy 5% break in fuel im using. :o

[jackal575]

it shouldnt really be idling longer than that. if it does, ur needles are set wrong (its very hard on the stock engine 'cause theres no lsn. but u seem to have got it. just blip it when it starts to load up. and get some real fuel lol i like trinity monster horsepower best. not a big fan of odonnel. not sure about the shocks tho srry :)

[sir pag]

thanks ;)

[philbilldrag]

To have a better idling, 1st increase the tension of the clutch spring
by cutting out 2 or 3 coils. It allows a higher rpm without turning the wheels.
Do not forget to grease ( black grease with molybdene ) the bearings of
the clutch bell.
the other advantage of a high setting of the clutch is that the engine runs
not so hot. It doesn't engage at low revs and that gives an impression of
more power due to bigger BANG when reving up......
Try it and let me know. :D

[sir pag]

i wouldnt trust myself cutting up my clutch, ive just spent my last 50 cents on a stick of gum. that tr15 inferno with the OS.18 would that eat the hell out of the diff gears? and also on my pull starter cord it is always soaked in this gray oily, greasy stuff, i took off the pull starter and cleaned it up and being the fool that i am let the spring go............across my room. i took me 20 minutes to do back up and gave my fingers a few cuts in the process :o . does yours do this (fill up with grey stuff)? aaaaaaaaaaaaaand lastly i cant figure out why it takes so long to start, do i need a new glo plug or just get off the crappy 5% break-in fuel? :confused:

[jackal575]

well i dont get tht problem with the fuel and grease on the starter cord but i used to when i had the stock motor. i dunno what causes it but im guessing a leaky backplate? try sealing it up with some of that rtv stuff they talk about. mine stopped starting towards the end of its life cuz the backplate leaked and there was no fuel getting up to the chamber. try it. and whatever happens, get off the break in fuel lol

its not too bad on the diffs, ive bought about 3 pairs since the beginning of the year and they last a while. if you keep them nice and tight, they will last longer. the steel ones are WAY to pricey for me at the moment. i just had a runaway cuz of a dead spot in the parking lot, was stuck at half throttle and travelled about 5 meters till it hit the curb front on. the force was enough to bend the front dogbone (center diff to front diff) to like 40 degres, bend the chassis and crack the fuel tank. thats a hell of a lot considering it was like idleing along, coasting to a stop and only got stuck at half throttle. ill get pics up soon

and also, dont keep pulling and pulling. If it doesnt start within 5 good pulls, somethings wrong. try tuning or checking glowplug or wether fuel is getting there.

[aus jd 2703]

hey guys has any one put a diff clutch on a tr-15 maybe a 3 shoe???

[sir pag]

whats a diff clutch?

[aus jd 2703]

sorry i ment a different clutch

[donny]

I´ve got a 3shoe clutch and it works great. It grips on nicely and it seems to hold together much longer than the standard one.

[aus jd 2703]

is that the kyosho aluminium clutch or another brand if so what brand?? please lol
any picks btw i mean every one??

[donny]

It´s the Kyosho one.

[aus jd 2703]

any good donny

[donny]

It´s much better than the original one and it lasts much longer. If your clutch burns up I think it´s very good to replace it with the three shoed clutch.

[sir pag]

is it very expensive? could you say what part number it is

[sir pag]

is it me or does the stadium force jump really bad? every time i go for a jump the car noses over (every time) even if i give it throttle to go the other way? :confused:

[jackal575]

is it very expensive? could you say what part number it is

mine cost about $15 and comes with everything ull need, bolt in. part number is TRW7. its not on tower cuz its a j ap product i think. but im always willing to send stuff on :)

[sir pag]

what fuel do you guys use?

[aus jd 2703]

custom mix lol but ive killed on engine lol it was my first nitro engine and the air cleaner came off :(

[aus jd 2703]

hey who can u contact about the tr-15 i can see kyosho's email adress even kyosho japan i just need to know if the new alumium front bulkhead support fits the older tr-15 oh btw is a .12cv-x better than the standard gs15r??

[sir pag]

Hi,
Today i just $30 on bearings, i have a stadium force and you know the bearings in the gearbox, the big ones, can you replace them with bearings? there really thin? And are there any other wheels that you can put on it or are they just special kyosho wheels? because i really need some on road tires cause i wore out the stock tires in the road outside my house, i recently bought some new tires and they bloody cost $50 AUD (and they were the cheap ones)
One last thing, what fuel do i use, the idiots at hobby sold me 5% nitro... a bloody 5 litres of it, well ive gone through that now i bought 10%, do i use this or 15%? how much fuel do you reckon till i lose compression?

[sir pag]

what i meant at the end of my last post was how much fuel do you think the engine would take befor it dies or loses compression? or is that onw of those things that nobody knows?
And one other thing, this is getting me worried, when i start the car it starts up fine and it revs normal, but once the glow plug heater is taken off it will idle for about 2-3 seconds then cut out. Even if i give it some throttle, in my back yard i started it then let it rev for a bit then took off the plug heater and drive it at about half throttle but it cuts out after just a few seconds. Is my motor dead? :eek:

[jackal575]

i dont think you can render it dead just yet... try leaning the mixture needle (theres only one if ur using the stock motor) there is no set number of gallons (or even liters) of fuel which your motor can take, it depends on loads of things such as break in procedure, running temperature, nitro content in fuel, how often u clean your air filter, i could go on forever. get rid of the 5% and get at least 20% the bearing specs can be found in the manual i think.

[sir pag]

well, according to the guy at the hobby shop you can, the motor needs a total rebuild, which means another $90. I think i will save up and buy a brand new traxxas 2.5 for it, because for $100 i can buy one from america and have it sent over.

[aus jd 2703]

id go the cv-rx 18 personally i like os
never owned one but they look good

[sir pag]

I'd like to go with the os18 aswell but i wouldnt be able to afford the diff replacments, the other thing is i am thinking of saving up and buying a REVO from america which would turn out around $500 cheaper, or a Savage. OOOOOOOOOOOrrrr i was also thinking of putting the gearbox from a revo onto my stadium force do you think i could? :rolleyes:

[jackal575]

OOOOOOOOOOOrrrr i was also thinking of putting the gearbox from a revo onto my stadium force do you think i could? :rolleyes:

tht would OWN if you try it, let us know cuz it would be much more cost effective.

[sir pag]

could you guys help me by doing a bit of research? i need to make sure if the revo gearbox will fit (as in will the dog bones fit or what i will need.) Cause if it all fits i will definitly put one in my car, alnog with the opti-drive thing. And most likley i will be putting a traxxas 2.5 motor in :cool:

[jackal575]

yeh, ill ask around at my lhs. what does the opti drive do anyway?

[sir pag]

The opti drive is really only for reverse and changing gears, it makes sure the car comes to a complete stop before shitching to revers and helps change gears smoother. :D

[aus jd 2703]

oi guys anything changed im cutting up some 1/1oth truck tires to fit my buggy what ya's reckon?
cheers

[Kamikuza]

Hey all! Back after 2 years of no RC ;)

After a trip to the LHS looking at the new shiny RTR nitro cars I got all fired up (the price of new kit does that to me) & dragged out my one & only car - the TR15. Haven't used it for 2 years but amazed the hell outa me & fired up in only a few seconds! Got to run a tank through it before my glow starter thingy ran out of charge ...

Having all the same old problems though - stalling when braking from WOT & idling too high or not at all ... I need some good tuning page links please :) It's still running better than it was when I gave up on it though :) Right mix fuel I guess ;)

Went back to the hobby shop for fuel & spied a Kyosho Inferno 10 in the 'junk' section ... complete with OS engine & all the bits apart from radio box & servos :D a rolling chassis for US$30 woohoo! Anyone know anything about them? And what are the 'stock' settings to get the engine running ... I dont know what kind of engine it is other that OS :D

Anyway - looking forward to lots of play time with my toys again ;)

Here are some pics - first, my TR15 ... ignore the Tamiya rims & rubber ;) more avaliable here than Kyosho anything :(

http://kev.dojak.com/images/DSC00143_1280.JPG
http://kev.dojak.com/images/DSC00144_1280.JPG

And the Inferno 10 ... mmm Aluminium bits 'n' pieces ... 'junk' in Japan means something different that it does back home - I'm not Japanese BTW ;)

http://kev.dojak.com/images/DSC00146_1280.JPG
http://kev.dojak.com/images/DSC00148_1280.JPG

[dark_matter]

i broke my front long suspention arm (part no. 166) a shock and a part from the front bulk set (no. 132) where can i get those parts? any help will be greatly apreciated.

[sir pag]

You can get them from your local hobby shop, or from online hobby shops

[sir pag]

lets get this thread going again!

Kamikuza, a good fix for your problems, may be a new carburetor. i just bought one yesterday and it gives the car a very large speed increase and fixed all of those problems i had which you now seem to have. i had similar problems because my carbie was 3 years old and worn out completely!
i also recently rebuilt the motor as after 30 litres of fuel it was also worn out.
the new carbie has a low speed needle and makes it very easy to tune.