Associated TC3 Forum v2.0

[Dingus]

TC3NME

I'm not sure if running two different size tires is a good thing. The 28mm foams do rub the ballcup in the back. I use RPM cups and it is worse than the std cups. I used a dremel to shave a bit off to get the clearance. Be careful not to take too much off.

I'm surprised they allow foams on asphault where you are.

From the sound of it you are having some problems with handling. I would recommend asking a few of the regulars for help. Get to the track early and make nice.

I would imagine the tire size would create a lot of push. Are you using tire sauce?

[mikwon]

HELP PLEASE, is this a factory team car, please dont let me get ripped, the guy said its a factory but theres no box,,,,,,,,,thanks

[NTC3NUT]

It looks like it has all the shiny blue parts in all the right places, but it would be impossible to tell from your photo if it is a graphite car or not. How much are you giving for it, whats included in the purchase? If it's cheep enough you look to be getting a good deal.

[mikwon]

Thanks for the fast response, yeah im gettin this for 210, minus electronics, also buying a novak cyclone for 60 and trinity p-94(7) for 35 new

[NTC3NUT]

Doesn't sound like a bad deal at all. If you can, have a few racers, or a hobby shop check it out. What's the sellers reputation, have you delt with him before? I can't tell in the photo if your getting threaded shock bodies, another FT option. The graphite usually has a lighter than black look to it when compared to the plastic. Hope this helps, good luck!

[mikwon]

Cool, cool, the guy sounds honest enough, been dealing for over a week, just hate to get ripped, thanks, im sure I'll talk to you again once I get the car, newbie from nitro..

[mikwon]

Just in case where is the cheapest place to get a new factory team car, tower has it for 270.00 with special.

[NTC3NUT]

I don't know of anywhere that can beat that price. Maybe by $10. or so. Most advertise @ $299. +/-.

[Kenro]

I personally think $210 is high for a used FTC3, I see them go used for $160 $170, my lhs has NIB FTC3 for $265, to me $55 is not much a difference for a brand new tight kit. just my opinion.

[mikwon]

Hell perfect timing, I just got off www.towerhobbies.com and got the factory team car and a year save membership(29.95), gives me free shipping for everything over 150.00 and 3 months of rc car action mag, plus coupons and specials, so now im gettin the car for 260.00, 15 off for the holiday special and free shipping because im a member......thanks for all the input!

[dc racer]

Certainly looks like a FT.

[mikwon]

Heres a question, i saw a 200mm extension kit for the team car, isnt the factory tc3 190mm .and then use spacers to run 200mm bodies or do I need 190mm bodies... thanks

[Kenro]

You will need a 190mm body.

[Dingus]

You could probably get away with running a 200mm body anyway. The differences sometimes that it's difficult to even notice. Depends on the style of body and the manufacturer.

[surfer]

i bought the rally conversion for mine and now its 200 mm. is it illegal to race with??

[Crazy Canuck]

Its illegal if the race director has his panties up in a bunch, or if youre A-Main level.

Just take it to the track, theyll let you race it.

[mikwon]

Quick question, what if the batteries are processed(in a pack), can I get them and take it apart...is it difficult, or just get the seperate cells....hey thanks for askin the newb question of the day....;)

[mikwon]

Quick question, what if the batteries are processed(in a pack), can I get them and take it apart...is it difficult, or just get the seperate cells....hey thanks for askin the newb question of the day....;)

[Crazy Canuck]

Prebuilt packs are relatively easy to take apart and build into side by side. I think thats what youre asking.

You will get better preformance from an unbuilt pack because the crapper cells are used in stick packs, but they're both still good.

[jkerr0043]

The hardest part about taking a stick pack apart is you can't un solder the tabs between the cells. They're lightly tack welded on. You have to pull them apart and you'll be left with small tags from the old tabs on the end of the cell. As long as they don't interfere with your new battery bar making good contact, they won't hurt anything.

[NTC3NUT]

You can use a dremel to lightly grind/sand them off.

[mikwon]

Thanks, can you fellas recomend cells for a Reedy ti double turn 10, runnin mod. class with novak gt7......thanks

[Crazy Canuck]

Any 3000s you can get your hands on will do that trick. That said, if youre just beginning, dont start with Mod, you will smash up your car and get frustrated. Unless your a good driver, stick with stock.

[NTC3NUT]

"That said, if youre just beginning, dont start with Mod, you will smash up your car and get frustrated. Unless your a good driver, stick with stock."

Amen to that! Try stock out first, if your new you'll be suprised at how fast they are. If you want to get a mod motor just to mess around with and have a little fun go for it, but it's a hard way to learn. I started racing indoor last year right before the season ended, and I made the same mistake. I didn't think stock would be fast enough, so I bought a Reedy Ti 7 Dbl.. OH MY GOD! Yes it was fast, and fun, but what a lot of broken parts. My poor car. This year I'm working on my driving skills and sticking with stock all season. BTW, I had a guy ask to have my car "teched" last Sunday, he thought my stock motor was a 19 turn, they are fast.

[jkerr0043]

Sanyo 3000HV or GP3300. Stay away from Panasonics if you don't want to buy new cells constantly.

[aeb3man_44]

hey guys,

I need to know what bumper i should get

Which ones better

The Rpm tc3 bumber
Or the Brp tc3 bumper

Thanks ;)

[mikwon]

Thanks for all the advice, I ended up going with sanyo 3300 team specs, 6cells for 49.99...........Now Im tryin decide what radio to get, im use to futaba cheapies like magnum sport, but everyones saying airtronics m8 for serious competition which is the route im attempting to head....any input........spanks, runnin novak gt7, want to run stock reciever, but digi servos s9450......

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by aeb3man_44
hey guys,

I need to know what bumper i should get

Which ones better

The Rpm tc3 bumber
Or the Brp tc3 bumper

Thanks ;)

RPM by a longshot. It hasnt bemt on me sfter a month of hard knocks. Plus its lighter.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by mikwon
Thanks for all the advice, I ended up going with sanyo 3300 team specs, 6cells for 49.99...........Now Im tryin decide what radio to get, im use to futaba cheapies like magnum sport, but everyones saying airtronics m8 for serious competition which is the route im attempting to head....any input........spanks, runnin novak gt7, want to run stock reciever, but digi servos s9450......

KO Mars Type R if you want to get serious. Micro reciever, FET servo in the box.

The MX3 is a good budget radio for cometition. It has everything you need, EPA, D/R, EXPO, etc

Pick one of those depending on your budget.

[mikwon]

thought I would keep the trend of questions coming, bodies, what bodies are you guys runnin, can I run hpi190mm and I know that the stratus bodies are popular, Im sure this isnt because dodge makes sleek cars, so what bodie can I use......thanks yet again

[Racin Rev]

maybe dodge doesn't but Pro-line does. :D The stratus is still the best bet all around, though at octoberfast in MPLS all of the Losi guys (Kinwald, Cyrul et.al. were using the new losi alpha body.

The ROAR site will tell you what bodies are legal. it is a boring few. so far as i can tell the most interesting ones cannot be bought any more.

[mikwon]

Thanks rev, what battery bars do I need for sanyo 3300, is it the standard or the off sey bars, got some at deans, but i think they were the 2.0 off sets will they work...............thanks

[mikwon]

Does anyone know if i can run a hpi audi 190mm on the FTC3, will it fit

[Crazy Canuck]

Yes, any 190 mm body will work.

If youre buying battery bars, get the Deans 3.0, theyre a bit longer and they fit perfectly om the 3000/3300. You can still use 2.0 if you want, the 3.0 will just be a bit easier.

[asus/traxxasman]

hi guys, i want to get a new car and am leaning towards the tc3. i just want to know a couple of things....

how good is the car as far as duribility (does it break a lot of parts easily) im only gonna be racing ocasionally so im gonna be running around my house alot and want a strong car.(some people say that its very fragile)

secondly..... do the batteries being on one side and the motor/electronics being on the other side cause an imbalance in the car?

is there a lot of Maintenance involved? i mean cleaning it out after every run and takeing all the parts apart for a good cleanup?

i just want to know all these things before i decide on a final car.

thanx for any help!! :p :D

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by asus/traxxasman
hi guys, i want to get a new car and am leaning towards the tc3. i just want to know a couple of things....

how good is the car as far as duribility (does it break a lot of parts easily) im only gonna be racing ocasionally so im gonna be running around my house alot and want a strong car.(some people say that its very fragile)

secondly..... do the batteries being on one side and the motor/electronics being on the other side cause an imbalance in the car?

is there a lot of Maintenance involved? i mean cleaning it out after every run and takeing all the parts apart for a good cleanup?

i just want to know all these things before i decide on a final car.

thanx for any help!! :p :D

I love my TC3 for racing, but if I were buying a car to drive around the driveway, it wouldn't be the TC3. One simple reason, rocks in the spur gear. I don't drive my TC3 unless the surface has been blown off or at least swept very well. It's a weekness in the design if you're driving on a dirty surface. That's one thing the Losi has over the TC3. As far as the imbalance, it depends on the electronics you're using. If the left side is heavier, you can balance it out with lead segments. Being that my car only gets raced, I'm picky about the maintinance. But just use a clean paint brush and brush it out after each run to get rid of excess dirt and check for small rocks that could get ing the drive train or the steering linkage. Hope this helps

[mikwon]

Well, I checked the ROAR website and the hpi audi a4 in 190mm is legal so definetely goin with that one, got the mx3 yesterday, but now Im waiting on the car, does anyone know a store that has it in stock, tower doesnt.....I also went with the s9450 fut. digi. servos, thanks again for the help

[Crazy Canuck]

On the high end racers, the TC3 is the lowest maintenacnce. Guys with Xrays and 414Ms, they rebuild often, and theyre always cleaning it. You can get away with just driving the TC3 for 2 months at a time w/o mainenence if youre really lazy.

[xxxkat]

The best thing about the TC-3 is the parts support,and associated does not change to a "new" car every 6 mo.And when associated does make a new car,you can still get parts for your old car.I have 3 touring cars right now,A xxxs,yokomo tc,and a TC-3,out of the 3 the xxxs is the easiest to break,The yokomo is the hardest(thats a good thing,hard to find parts where Im at.)The only time I have ever broken anything on my TC-3 was in mod(10d)and I hit the wall at full speed(radio glitch)All it broke was a front arm & shock tower,It did not tweak the chassis(checked on a tweak board).That hit would have broken any car.As far as small rocks in the steering rack and getting in to the drive line,If the street or parking lot that you are driving on has that many,you need a different style of car or find a better parking lot. :D

[nmt6789]

Hi, i have a tc3 and i need help seeting it up for a carpet track. What springs should i use for the carpet track?? Also what graphite parts are a must have??? I want to really setup my tc3 nicely. Also if anyone can help me with a good batter/charger combo? I have an intellipeak charger but its the low wnd one that doesnt charge fast. I am going to get two good batteries, people suggested sanyo's.

Thanx

[7elch]

Look at my new homepage.

I have got a special TC3 tuning-guide for you!

http://mitglied.lycos.de/siebenelch/

Greetings


Michael

[cedric4]

7elch, is there a way to view it in English?

[7elch]

No, sorry. It´s only in german language.

Michael

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Type the addy at http://www.google.com and have their translator do it.

[MCoupe]

Carpet Set Up.

I recently finished building my TC3 and out of the box set it up for carpet racing.

I used the carpet set up that associated recomends as a base set up in the TC- 3 tuning guide.

It is a very good starting point!!

Here goes.

Front
26mm wide Double Purple or Plaid Foams
4 deg block carriers
2 deg kickup
0 deg toe
-1.5 Front Camber
4mm Ride Height
#2 Shock piston
70 wt shock oil
Associated White Spring
droop setting 6
shock mounting - middle hole
camber link position - std


Rear
26mm wide Purple foams
3 deg toe in
-2 deg camber
Middle wheelbase
4mm ride height
#2 shock piston
50 wt shock oil
droop setting 4
Camber link - Tower uppper inner hole, std hub
Shock mounting - middle hole

Battery - rear position

Mario

[Scrad]

That set up is about like mine, but the only differences are I run 30 weight with silver in the front and gold in the rear. With purple foams, battery forward and my front top shock mount in the second hole from the inside. But you'll be close no matter what with purple or plaid foams. I'd say get both and run the purple in the rears in the plaid in the front.

[Dingus]

I used to run carpet, but before the locked diff deal.

Probably want to limit the camber so your foams wear evenly all around. Maybe -1.5

3 deg rear camber is gonna make the car push a little too much. I ran std swaybars front and rear.

I also ran my camber links short. The car was just too twitchy for my driving style with the long links.

I found the white/purple to be way too stiff. I think I ran red front and yellow rear sprigs with 40 weight oil all around.

Also, try some different droop settings. I like the way the car drives when the droop is no more than 1mm different front to rear. So, 5 front, 4 rear, for example.

There has been some discussion about the rear toe-in not being even on both sides of the car. This will be quite noticeable on carpet.

Turns out the rear arm blocks are made of soft plastic and if they are forced on the pins, they will become oblong and loose.

The trick is to be able to just slide them onto both pins at the same time without forcing them at all. You may need to loosen or remove all the screws holding the pins, tranny case and the rear bumper.

Also, make sure you have a wide front bumper and nerf wings. Your wallet will thank you. The trinity foam bumper holds up better than the stock one.

Good luck, carpet is way fun to drive.

[SegaBowMan]

Good day all TC3 owners. I'm going to get a TC3 very soon. I'm just going to run it up and down my street and probably setup a brushless or some sort of speed combo. Anyway a few posts above it says that rocks and other things can get into the car. In my situation the street I will run has sand but only in the corners and was repaved last year. Also I might run it in the tennis court. Is this ok? Will my car get severely damaged? What can I do to prevent stuff from flying into the car?


Are there any other 4wd shaft cars that are comparable to the TC3 except lower in price? NO TL-01's. Too bare bones and way too much to hop up

[xxxkat]

It depends on the TC-3 that you want,if its the "racer" their are none that have the specs. for the price.If your just playing I would get the RTR,My LHS sells them for $229 thats what most kits cost with no radio gear.

[jkerr0043]

Get the TC3 Racer if you're not going to be racing it. One thing I did for awhile was take a chunk of lexan and CA it to the bottom of the chassis where the spur gear opening is. This kept crud out of the gears. The only problem is on a race track, if you catch a dot, they like to pull the shield right off.

[SegaBowMan]

I don't want the RTR cause the esc is not that good and I like to build things. I'll be getting the racer kit with accord body. but now the question is where to get it for the lowest price. that way my mom won't be so reluctant:D

[jkerr0043]

Hey guys, how far down do you cut your comms? How many times do you replace the arm before you just trash it and get a new motor?

[Dingus]

The more often you cut, the more cuts you can get...usually.

If it's a stock motor, don't even bother with a new arm, just replace the whole thing.

When you cut less frequently, the comm will develop a deep groove and it will take more passes to get it even with the deepest point.

I run my motors maybe 10 runs before cutting. I know plenty of paople who cut after every race day and a few who cut before the main!

I wait because I have to bum cuts off other people. I'm holding out for brushless....

[micropunk]

bah!
for some reason, it won't let me post a new thread....

but, I can in the electric forum....
anywho...

gonna get a "rally" chassis for X-mas :p

just need to figure out which one....

gonna get a flat one, so the rocks dont get stuck in teh steering (lexan shields can only do so much...)

do you guys think CF would hold up to "my" driving style?

Team IRS CF Chassis = $180 (http://www.teamirsrc.com/irs150.html)
or
?Megatech CF Chassis = $120 (http://www.megatech.com/images/products/TC3HopUps/MTC22110.jpg)
or
HardCoreRacing Ti Chassis = $220 (http://www.racinghardcore.com/product/asc/etc3/0220/index.htm) :(

those prices are suggested retail, and I'm not sure where to buy from...

so far, I like the HRC ti chassis the best, cause I seriously doubt I coud break it
the megatech looks nice at that price, but the way that the "TC3" is cut out, doesn't give me a real flat surface to mount cells/elecs.... (10-16 cells :D)

anyone try any of these?

also, my how can I get a signiture?
I want this to be my siggy:
http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL98/739766/1283314/15691310.jpg

thnx for help, and YES, that is my tc3 ;)

[Crazy Canuck]

The TC3 isnt really meant for hardcore rally. The CF would get torn up, and the Hardcore is so heavy you wont get any punch.

Your best bet would be a normal TC3, you just have to blow it out. Unless you plan to race, you wont really notice the steering getting sloppy. Just so long as you stay out of the wet stuff, youll be OK, dry dirt is easy to get out.

JKerr, I cout my motors every week. When the comm gets below .270", I replace the arm. So far Ive replaced an arm once (In my p2k2), bought a new one (when I got my p2k2), and this time, I think I might try a Monster stock. Ive been using the arm in my p2k2 since April, and I think its getting close to needing replacing (too lazy to measure all the time) so its only once every 6 months or so you have to start to think about it.

[micropunk]

um, im not really worried bout lack of punch :D

did you notice I said 10-16 cells?

yep BL fo Me :D

so, you'd recomend the HRC over the other 2?

and I wan't an aftermarket one, so I can easily hold more cells, and so rocks don't get stuck in shaft/steering... (major prob w/ stock chassis, the way I run)

is there no siggys allowed on these boards?

[jkerr0043]

I've been cutting my Orion motor before the main every week. Then I run a different motor the next week for practice and run the Orion again in the heats and practice before the main, then cut it again right before the main. I just wasen't sure about the measurement on the comm. I'm not too sure I'm breaking them in the best way though. I've just been hooking it up to a 4 cell 1400 for about 30 seconds then spraying it out again and re oiling. I tried the Trinity break in drops but even though I'd clean them out after the break in, the brushes were burning up really fast and the comm was taking some major abuse. Any suggestions?

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Sigs are disabled on this board. Eats up too much bandwidth.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
I've been cutting my Orion motor before the main every week. Then I run a different motor the next week for practice and run the Orion again in the heats and practice before the main, then cut it again right before the main. I just wasen't sure about the measurement on the comm. I'm not too sure I'm breaking them in the best way though. I've just been hooking it up to a 4 cell 1400 for about 30 seconds then spraying it out again and re oiling. I tried the Trinity break in drops but even though I'd clean them out after the break in, the brushes were burning up really fast and the comm was taking some major abuse. Any suggestions?

If youre using the same brushes before and after you cut your motor, dont bother breaking it in. The change in the angles and surface touching etc is so small that the brushes will be seated by the time you drive over to the starting line.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by micropunk
um, im not really worried bout lack of punch :D

did you notice I said 10-16 cells?

yep BL fo Me :D

so, you'd recomend the HRC over the other 2?

and I wan't an aftermarket one, so I can easily hold more cells, and so rocks don't get stuck in shaft/steering... (major prob w/ stock chassis, the way I run)

is there no siggys allowed on these boards?

I dont think its really possible to get more than 7 cells in a TC3. The Hardcore chassis only has 6 slots for cells. If you mount a BL motor (which, by the way, is longer than a normal motor), you will have virtually no space left for extra cells, even if you do put the reciever on the servo. I would guess that the maximum number of cells you could fit is 7, maybe 8 if youre lucky. If you use a brushed motor, maybe 9. and you definitely dont want to stack cells on top of each other, if you do that, and youre going at a very high speed, as soon as you turn you will flip over.

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by Crazy Canuck
If youre using the same brushes before and after you cut your motor, dont bother breaking it in. The change in the angles and surface touching etc is so small that the brushes will be seated by the time you drive over to the starting line.

The brushes get changed with every cut. Have you ever heard of dipping the motor in water quickly while it's plugged into a battery? A guy at one of LHS around here mentioned that. Seems like that'd fry everything?

[Dingus]

The water method works, but it's too much trouble for what it's worth.

Just run the motor with no load, like half throttle (or use a 4 cell pack, the voltage is too high with a 6 cell, mah has got nothing to do with it, and spray motor spray on the comm. The motor will run faster for about 1 or 2 seconds, that's it. Broken in. Just re-oil the bearing/bushing.

I've been trying another method. I just connect the motor to a Dremel and run it on low speed (5000 rpm, I think) for about a minute or less. I know people who just take an easy lap before a heat and that's all they do. Seems to work better with serrated brushes.

[jkerr0043]

thanks

[SegaBowMan]

Is it worth paying for 150 just to get a racer kit?
mip cvd's
steel turnbuckles
bearings

Is all this worth paying 150 for the car and not paying 90 for a TL-01 and hopping it up?

[Dingus]

Yes!

[xxxkat]

I can tell you have never priced any tamiya parts(hop up's or replacement) The money you would spend to get a TL-01 "race ready"would not be a wise investment.Thats just my 2 cents. :)

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by SegaBowMan
Is it worth paying for 150 just to get a racer kit?
mip cvd's
steel turnbuckles
bearings

Is all this worth paying 150 for the car and not paying 90 for a TL-01 and hopping it up?

TL01: 90
Oil shocks: 40-50 at least
Bearings : 30
CVDs: 20-30
Long arm suspension kit: 50
assorted turnbukles: 30-40

By the time you spend all that youve bought almost a FTTC3 and you have a car crappier than a racer kit

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
The brushes get changed with every cut. Have you ever heard of dipping the motor in water quickly while it's plugged into a battery? A guy at one of LHS around here mentioned that. Seems like that'd fry everything?

If you want to do tyhe water breakin, this is what you do:

put the motor in the water. Do not turn it on yet. While under that water, rotate the shaft by hand. This will release the air in between the brush and the comm. Then run the motor on 3 cells, until the water turns grey. Pull the motor out, and blast it with motor spray. Do not touch the brushes at this point, and do not move the springs. The brushes have been perfectly seated.

The water causes the brush to wear fast, but no materal remains on the comm. Thats why you put the motor in first, before its running, that way the comm will still be clean as glass when you pull it out.

[xxxkat]

I have a question on the factory team does the diff come with bearings or bushings.(I bought a used ft and it had bushings in the diff.):confused:

[Dingus]

It comes with bushings, just leave 'em alone. Bearings there will cause the diff to more easily slip, plus the only time the bushings come into play is when there is "diff" action.

[SegaBowMan]

I just came back from my LHS. They have pointed me in the direction of the TB-01. It comes with bearings and it's cheaper and stronger. The TC3 is too much of a racing car and an overpriced basher. I bid you all fare well. THE END

[Crazy Canuck]

Well, thats your choice. But remember, when you break a Tamiya part, you have to buy the whole parts bag to get the one part you actually need. At least thats the case for their cheap cars. Have fun!! <No sarcasm intended, seriously>

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by Dingus
It comes with bushings, just leave 'em alone. Bearings there will cause the diff to more easily slip, plus the only time the bushings come into play is when there is "diff" action.
You should also note that the bearings will not physically fit in the plastic outdrives.

[nmt6789]

What batteries do you guys use?? Iam looking for good 2400's. IS the company smc any good?

Hey crazy canuck i see they have something about you in the new rcca.

[xxxkat]

As far as diff action goes would that not be every low speed turn? On my xxxs it has bearings in the diff and so does my yokomo and my GT and all my other RC cars & trucks.I think associated felt it was not that important or big enough improvement in performance vrs. the cost.And as far as your LHS selling you a TL-O1,and the TC-3 overpriced,You get what you pay for,You wanted a toy and thats what the TL-01 is,If you want a race car that you can play with get a TC-3.And the part thats going to really suck is you are going to put about $300 in it and the TC-3 is still going to kick your ass :D

[SegaBowMan]

nevermind! I just finished reading the TB-01 chassis thread and the car is horrible. AND it costs just as much as a TC3 racer. Looks like I am stuck with a TC3. But the lhs guy said that the car was a little brittle. As a basher, that doesn't sound good. What does it mean to bash anyway? I think of it as a car that is not raced but run around the street alot.

[Dingus]

Yes, that is correct, every low speed turn. Still not enough action to make much of a difference. Why would they skimp here and nowhere else on the car???

The main reason for the bushing is to keep the diff from slipping under acceleration.

[jkerr0043]

You're right about bashing. It is just playing around with the car in a driveway or a parking lot. Cars that are "bashed" will show wear more quickly because they're actually run more and have less maintainace done on them and run in a harsher environment. So in turn they wear out and/or break quicker. My TC3 never touches a surface that isn't either a race track or at least a clean parking lot track. I've broken little more than a couple of suspension arms in about a year of racing it. And I've had some hard hits. So I don't know what people are talking about when they say the TC3 is brittle.

[SegaBowMan]

Where can I get the kit for cheaper than 150?

[mikwon]

hey guys Im putting together my first FTC3 kit and I cant get the damn dogbones together, is there anything you guys do besides pure elbow grease, appreciate the advise, im going to need it later on........

[SegaBowMan]

Is there a way to put in longer body posts?

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by SegaBowMan
nevermind! I just finished reading the TB-01 chassis thread and the car is horrible. AND it costs just as much as a TC3 racer. Looks like I am stuck with a TC3. But the lhs guy said that the car was a little brittle. As a basher, that doesn't sound good. What does it mean to bash anyway? I think of it as a car that is not raced but run around the street alot.

Your car will last a long time if you dont hit anything. If you never smash it into anything, you will never break it. Its that simple. So just drive it around the street, and avoid the curbs as much as possible.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by nmt6789
What batteries do you guys use?? Iam looking for good 2400's. IS the company smc any good?

Hey crazy canuck i see they have something about you in the new rcca.

SMC is a terrific company. They have some of the best packs available. If you can afford it, get them.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I had problems with the dogbones on my XXX, and I just used the same trick for my FT Tc3. I linedthe inside of my pliers with a washcloth, so I wouldn't scratch anything. I pushed in the pin through the dogbone easier than pie. If it didn't fit, then take needle-nose pliers, and sqeeze the pin VERY LITTLE, so it makes the circumfrence smaller, but not so small, that it is too loose. Try this, and I think you'll find your way out.

Yes you can get body posts. Just go to your LHS, and ask for were they are. You should get ones for really cheap, adn they are like 4-6 inches long!

-A. Swift

[vvvLoKivvv]

I just recently bought a RC10TC3 I cheated and got the RTR version. This is my first "CAR" RC I have trucks and what not but my first 4wd car. Now the first question I have is the normal what should be the first upgrades on the car?? The second is a real newbie question. But, I took the little clamp deal off the top of the motor and still cant seem to get it out. Does it just slide straight up from the seated position do I need to turn it then slide? Do I need to pate my head hope on one foot and chant "you ma ma gwa fi da chow"?? How the HE!! does that thing come out it is really starting to irritate me.

Thanks for any help

LoKi

[jkerr0043]

You need to rotate the pinion away from the spur as you lift it out. Whats probably happening is the pinion is lower than the spur gear centerline and when you lift straight up, it's jamming itself on the spur.

[xxxkat]

Are you talking about the cam that fits on the motor?It can be a .... well you know,It's a tight fit,rock the motor back and forth and slide the motor up.Hop up's?Sway bars,tires,drive shafts,alum. screw kit.The nice thing about the TC-3 is it does not need alot of hop up's.The best hop up for an rtr would be an FM radio system,maybe a better speed controler(one with a no motor limit),better servo.I would get the alum. motor cam first. :)

[vvvLoKivvv]

Yeah as far as FM goes I have a MX3 I am getting for Christmas. Well I already have it but the wife says I can't use it till Christmas:( I am going to try and rock the motor out as soon as it cools off. Just got done running it with my nephew he was running one of my rusty's. I am really happy with the TC so far. handles pretty good on the road in front of the house. Plus it is as fast as my rusty maybe a hair more straight out of the box. (I have done a lot of work to the rusty so this is saying a good thing LoL:D) I was thing about getting the V7.1 Speedo. What stering sevo do yall recomend?

Thanks and keep the recommindations coming.
LoKi

[vvvLoKivvv]

Yes I got it out!! Your right it is a Biotch to get out. But since is did and loosened up the gear mesh a bit the car has gotten much faster. Now it can just about walk away from my trucks. It was a little tight you could feel the gears were tight enough it was dragging the car down a bit.

[Grizzbob]

I'm not surprised, it's usually better to err on the tight side when setting the gear mesh(so it won't strip), & I imagine that's what the guys at AE were thinking. For hop ups, you might also look into some better tires for it, the ones that come with it are so-so for bashing, but there are definitely much better ones available(you should really look into HPI's treaded tires for bashing, good grip & pretty good wear characteristics), then you'll be able to put more motor in there & still have the traction you need. As for steering servos, there's really a good number of quality ones out there that'll work well in a TC3, but I do prefer Airtronics(just look for one with torque over 50oz/in. & transit speeds under .2sec. for 60 degrees, ideally over 70oz/in. & speed under .1sec.)....:)

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by vvvLoKivvv
Yeah as far as FM goes I have a MX3 I am getting for Christmas. Well I already have it but the wife says I can't use it till Christmas:( I am going to try and rock the motor out as soon as it cools off. Just got done running it with my nephew he was running one of my rusty's. I am really happy with the TC so far. handles pretty good on the road in front of the house. Plus it is as fast as my rusty maybe a hair more straight out of the box. (I have done a lot of work to the rusty so this is saying a good thing LoL:D) I was thing about getting the V7.1 Speedo. What stering sevo do yall recomend?

Thanks and keep the recommindations coming.
LoKi

Personally, I wouldnt buy an LRP, Ive seen too many go up in smoke. Others swear by them though, so its your choice.

Servo: I like KO Propo, but they're pricey. Id say buy the best you can afford, then youll never have to buy again.

[NTC3NUT]

Have any of you guys addapted the NTC3 steering set-up to your TC3s? I recieved some good advice this weekend from a Pro driver, and I did it to a spare graphite chassis with out any difficulty. I'm not sure how it will work out (his car looked like it was working well!), but it sure looks trick.

[vvvLoKivvv]

Originally posted by Crazy Canuck
Personally, I wouldnt buy an LRP, Ive seen too many go up in smoke. Others swear by them though, so its your choice

I wouldn't be running any super hot motors in it. Mainly racing stock and useing mild motors for playing around out fron the house. While bashing I am looking for great run time and decent speed.

LoKi

[speedydave]

Hey guys. I'm starting to research an onroad car for next spring/summer, and I'm stuck between getting an electric TC3, or an NTC3. I used to own an electric TC3, which I ran a stock motor in, but I didn't own it for long because at the time I didn't really feel like racing onroad and offroad, and bashing with a stock motor was boring. I'm unsure as to which I'd want because I know I'll love the speed of the NTC3, but I have a spare Cyclone and batteries lying around, and I don't want to go all nitro(I'd like to have an electric car for me to be able to mess with, still). However, as I said before, the stock motor powered TC3 got kinda boring. Any suggestions? Thanks.

[xxxkat]

I dont know why LRP has such a bad rap,Good speed controler,I have never seen one go up in smoke,I have seen a few novak's smoke.In a TC I would look at a novak GT-7(its small)I have a V 7.1 its size is the only thing I dont like,I also have a GT-7 it fits great.On servos I have been using a JR z550(its cheap & works)Its got 62oz torque and the speed is .17.It was only $32.And if any of you guys dont like my servo choice........feel free to send me a good one(notice I did say FREE) :D

[SegaBowMan]

I can't find a picture of the chassis. Know where I can see it? Also can longer body posts be put on so that I can put on taller bodies? I'm going to do a dumb thing and try to put a maxx body on it. oh yea! lets see some pics with some tight bodies!:D

[SegaBowMan]

one more question. how come the back of bodies stick in the air instead of being parallel to the front bumper?

[jkerr0043]

If you can afford these two, I'd recomend a Novak GT7 and an Airtronics 94755Z servo. The GT7 goes for about $140 and the servo for about $90. They both are awesome.

[Crazy Canuck]

Maxx bodies I think are too large to fit on a TC. I think they would be much too long and much too wide.

Speeydave, I would reccomend the electric. Stock motors now, with the high end batts, really are at the level 19T was a year ago. Youd be surprised how fast it feels. And if thats still to slow, Im sure a mild 12-13 turn would be plenty fast, with relatively low maintenance.

[speedydave]

Problem is, my track doesn't run mod. By the way, I'm not sure how 'newbie-ish' my post seemed, but I've been in the hobby for 5 years, owned 8 electric cars, and 3 nitros... :) I guess I kinda like having to develop faster reaction times, not retard them(I race 1/8 buggy right now, so going to stock TC would, in my eyes, be slowing down). Thanks. :)

[UrbanCowboy]

Does anybody have a recomendation on some good foam tires for a carpet track? I'm a pretty inexperience racer. I assume this has some effect on what I should use. Oh yeah, and the carpet track is really packed hard carpet. The local hobby shop sells TRC foam pre-mounted wheels, are these any good and what hardness would you recommend? Thanks a lot!

[Grizzbob]

Yes, TRC's foam tires are very nice, I use them in my 1/12 scale car, & on my TC3 when we get a hankering to run foams. To start on carpet, I'd recommend you try purple fronts, & pink rears, that's a good overall combo that shouldn't give you too much steering(if you go softer in front than a purple, the car could steer VERY aggressively, might even try to traction roll)...:)

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I bet you mean why does the back end of a body not go as low as the front? The reason for this is to basically let air out. When you have a car, especially a nitro, adn you let air in from the front, either it be through holes you drilled, or the wheel wells (I took a stratus to a windtunnel-WOW) It gets trapped inside the car, creating a swirling action. This is drag, adn it slows the car down. If the back end sticks up that high, then it lets the air out, adn gets rid of the extra drag. That's why you see drag racers with holes in the bumper, or no rear end at all. This is also why you see the pros running their cars with little, or no rear on their cars. Look at page 200 of this month's issue. You see some rear bumper (to keep the structural integrity of the body) yet not a lot. Most of it is gone, to let the air escape. I hope this was clear for you to understand. any other questions, e mail me. I am not afraid to stop what I am doing to help a fellow R/C'er out...

-A. Swift
Anthony.Swift@attbi.com

[AssociatedRacer]

Whats wrong with my tc3?

My Tc3 was acting good until the main. It would act really squirelly down the straight. I did have a few hard crashes, but nothing to bad. Any ideas on what it could be???

thanks for any input...

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Squirly like side to side? I've done that before. Check the caster, and toe. also check, and double check the steering linkage. I've had problems with that area too. aslo, check to make sure you didn't damage your wheels. I did, thought nothing of it, adn they fell off of the axle. cool looking crash...

-A. Swift

[Jasio18]

This is my TC3 RTR that I bought about 7 months ago. It was my first RC car. I was dissappointed with it's speed so i changed the motor and the ESC. Currently I am running a P-94 13 turn double and a LRP ESC. It goes about 30-35mph. I am willing to sell it part-by-part. Anyone who is interested in buying any of the following items e-mail me @ PLkiller@aol.com;

- P-94 13 turn double motor
- LRP super reverse digital ESC
- blue aluminum motor heat-sink
- blue aluminum battery strap
- panasonic 3000mah 6C NiMh battery pack
- TC3 rolling chassis (RTR)

all parts were used and the only one with scratches is the chassis...all others are in close to mint condition
Prices are negotiable

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Wrong forum buddy. Try the Buy/Sell/Trade Forum.

[SegaBowMan]

Thanks A. Swift. I've noticed the back end being high for a long time but never understood why. Well it seems that I am getting a TL-01 chassis. All i really need is bearings and aluminum shaft and motor mount. but I will be able to buy these parts over a period of time and not at once(TC3 ). And it's just a bashing car for speed and looks so a TC3 would be to fragile for this application. And my LHS stocks a lot of tamiya stuff but not associated. but I give the TC3 props on one thing. It has nice rims!!!:D Even the NTC3 w/stratus look good.

[SegaBowMan]

http://prolineracing.com/protoform/touring/1454/1454.jpg

http://prolineracing.com/protoform/touring/1454/1454-2.jpg

This isn't your ordinary daily driver!:D

[AudiTT-Quattro]

I have the same rims on my TC3, but mine are kinda scratched up. If you ever see the way I drive, you'll know why. :D

[Crazy Canuck]

If your car feels tweaked, its probably the hinge pins. Take them out and make sure they're straight.

For foams, I like Speedmind. 45 front and 40 rear. If you cant find them anywhere, try www.magmarc.com

[ChristianZx]

Here's my Tc3, which I will soon be racing on an indoor carpet track. I'm using Trinity Gold Peak 3300 VIS batteries, LRP v7.1 ESC, Hitec 605BB servo, P2K2 stock motor, and Novak Xxtra synth receiver.

http://www.christianzx.com/images/tc3/tc3_01_tn.jpg (http://www.christianzx.com/images/tc3/tc3_01.jpg)

http://www.christianzx.com/images/tc3/tc3_02_tn.jpg (http://www.christianzx.com/images/tc3/tc3_02.jpg)

http://www.christianzx.com/images/tc3/tc3_03_tn.jpg (http://www.christianzx.com/images/tc3/tc3_03.jpg)

http://www.christianzx.com/images/tc3/tc3_04_tn.jpg (http://www.christianzx.com/images/tc3/tc3_04.jpg)

http://www.christianzx.com/images/tc3/tc3_05_tn.jpg (http://www.christianzx.com/images/tc3/tc3_05.jpg)

[MCoupe]

New Carpet Racers

Ive doing racing on carpet for 2 months now. Started with a Pro3, which I couldnt figure out and then just bought a TC3, which I felt was easier to set up. The TC3 with the suggested associated carpet set up has transformed my driving - it went from choppy to smooth. The car does what I ask it to, but occasionally I ask it to run into the board - damn driver ;)

A good starting carpet set up is the one described in the Associated TC3 Set Up guide.

The associated set up, combined with 26mm wide front and rear plaid or dbl purple and purple respectively make for a VERY stable and responsive car.

If you have a TC3 and race it you owe it to yourself to get this e-book.

Here are 2 inexpensive parts that have already paid for themselves in 3 weeks of racing and practice. These little gems will save your A arms.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/b/brpc6230.jpg
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/b/brpc6225.jpg

Mario

[ponky_wonky]

hey guys ,wat speeds are u doing wit ur stock tc3's with stock 27turn motors? or how fast is the rtr tc3??
thxs

[SuperRally1]

Hi all, I love the TC3 and for xmas i am gettin one.. Could u tell me some good sites with info ... or can u show ur pics of ur car? I also have a website and i would be happy to put ur cars up on my site.. just tell me what ur name is and if u want ur car up.. Can u also tell me what spare parts to buy?

Thanks so much!
Russ

EDIT: P.S. my website is www.magikfind.com

[AssociatedRacer]

Are there any good body posts? My car has taking tons of strong hits, and is super durable, its just that the body posts are bent up front, any stronger ones?

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Likewise, I was a little dissapointed with the body posts when I got my TC3. What do you guys use to keep foam bumper down? It keeps riding up the body posts.

[xxxkat]

Dynamite makes some aluminum ones,I only used the front ones,On the stock front body posts I would drill a small hole right above the bumper and use a piece of scrap lexan & body clip to hold the bumper down.It worked for me.:)

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Thats what someone told me, but he also said it reduced the strength of the body post. What do you think?

[Rcnit]

Take the clear/white plastic washer that comes with new body clips from AE and just push it down on top of the body post until its snug against the bumper. It will never come lose again.

[T3Rules]

I am going to get a TC3 Racer kit and am going to race it. What hop ups would you suggest getting

[jkerr0043]

I got a set of HPI front body posts. They come with brackets to hold the body up so I use those to hold the bumper down and I use the stock risers for the body mounting.

[xxxkat]

I have smacked the wall at my local track really hard and never broke the body posts(A-arms,hubs etc.)I think if you hit anything hard enough to break them,that would not be the only that was broken. :D

[AssociatedRacer]

I havent broken anything, its just the body posts are bent.

[xxxkat]

I use to take a hair drier, heat them up and straighten them.(I'm cheap)It works.:D

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Mine are just bent because I cut the body post holes in the body too close together (about 1/2 inch from each post). I'm too lazy to re-cut the holes.

[Crazy Canuck]

I use a body washer and a piece of fuel tubing to hold the bumper down. You put the washer first, then slide a very small piece of fuel tubing down over the body post.and it will hold, snugly.

[Rdub202]

I was driving at the larrys performance rcs track by my house for the first time and of course my car took a beating (not too bad).

one of my bateries was dead and other still had some juice in it but running slower. I was gonna go c if i could do a couple of laps until it was DEAD but it wouldnt run. i asked a guy at the table by me if he could figure out what was wrong he did somethin and then told me to charge my batt. when my batt was done it still didnt work he figured out that the wire from my esc to my motor was very loose almost off. he then re-hooked the wire onto the motor and he then got it running and also told me that my brushes get dirty and that could be it too. (are brushes the things on the inside of the motor?) it was running ok unless i bumped a wall then it would stop for a few secs then start. i sometimes had to nudge it and then it would drive ok? when i was done driving i was goin around the track driving it twords me to pick it up and b on my way but all of a sudden (i think i hit a wall) it started like doing doughnuts and having a mind of its own? i flipped off the controller and then it just went stright at full speed into the wall. i turned the controller back on and it stopped i unhooked the battery and left. i am getting new stuff for christmas (new motor and esc) so this will prolly go away with my new stuff but for now i wanna knw how to fix it??

im a newbie in distress plz help

i also wanna knw what would be good esc to get and good motor? or if mine are ok?

P.S. it is 100% stock

[Rdub202]

if u wanna check out larry's track and store u can check out there new website. they just moved to a new better location so there website is very new also. www.larrysperformancercs.com (http://www.larrysperformancercs.com)

the track is different then it is in the pics

[nmt6789]

I have had my tc3 for a year and i want to get it setup for carpet racing. What are the mandatory hop-ups that i would need? Iam running a stock motor with a novak fusion speed control. Also, what tools do you guys use? I have seen alot of people at my track using the associated hex drivers.

[jkerr0043]

Rdub202,

Is your car an RTR? It does sound like your brushes were dead and need to be replaced. When it started losing control it was probably arcing really bad and causing a glitch. Also, never turn your radio off first! Always turn the car off first and the radio second. The car will pick up the closest frequancy and go with that. Ask around at the track and find someone that my cut the comm on your motor and change the brushes for you. If you're getting a new motor, the problem will go away for a little while until you need to change the brushes again. (By the way, the brushes are the copper parts that slide into the top of the motor and are held in by the springs. The comm is the copper part that spins that the brushes contact inside the motor.)

[MCoupe]

Composite vs. Graphite Chassis weight

Anyone know how much lighter the graphite vs. the compsoite chassis is?

TIA

Mario

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by nmt6789
I have had my tc3 for a year and i want to get it setup for carpet racing. What are the mandatory hop-ups that i would need? Iam running a stock motor with a novak fusion speed control. Also, what tools do you guys use? I have seen alot of people at my track using the associated hex drivers.

The RPM bumper and tires are the only hopups you really need. For tires, I like Takeoff, the CS22 and CS 27 are great. Unless your track runs foam, then the Speedmind foams are excellent. Proline and TRC are OK, but I really like Speedmind, they dont have rings of different shores, so they are consistent though every corner.

For tools, the AE ones are great, but expensive. "No Mercy" brand tools are great, I use them, and theyre about 1/3 the price of AE.

You can get all of that stuff at www.magmarc.com

[NTC3NUT]

Crazy Canuck, which Speedminds do you use (shore)? I have been dying for a cheeper alternative to the TRC's and would love to order from overseas. Thanks!

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I was just about to recomend the take-offs. I love mine. I recommend getting a few sets, of different compounds each. I find the price to be really good for them too. I put many sets of them on my X-mas list...

-A. Swift

[nmt6789]

Does anybody have the m8 radio? I want to get one but i dont know if i should buy one. I dont know if it would be compatible with my servos. If its not what is a good choice for a new radio. Iam no looking to spend more that 200$.

[jkerr0043]

If you don't want to spen more than 200, don't buy an M8. I love mine but I use most of the featurs on it and I spent almost 300 on it. Then another 100 on the digital servo. If your servos are Airtronics Z connectors, they'll work. If you're not looking for an ultra adjustable radio with all the goodies, I'm sure there are better deals out there. Just make sure you get something with dual rate steering adjustments.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Crazy Canuck, which Speedminds do you use (shore)? I have been dying for a cheeper alternative to the TRC's and would love to order from overseas. Thanks!

45 Front/40 Rear

Stick withe the normal ones, not the "special" front compounds

You dont have to order overseas, theyre distributed by a guy in Toronto, www.magmarc.com

I get them for 21.99 per pair Canadian, which is like 14.00 /pair US. Great deal, IMHO

[Crazy Canuck]

I should mention, Ive only ever had one problem with them, and that is that on some of the tires, the hole for the CVD/wheel threads to come through is a bit small, so I had to drill it out with an 11/64 drill bit. No big deal.

[NTC3NUT]

I've run into that on the TRC's also, I was in a hurry & used my body reamer. And Yes, $14. a pair is a good deal.

[ole]

hey guys any comments about these products for the tc3:

TRINITY KINWALD ALUM HINGE PIN MOUNTS

RPM BUMPER, TRINITY KINWALD ALUM STEERING RACK

[jkerr0043]

RPM bumper: Worth it
Aluminum rack and mounts: Not worth the money unless you're looking for a flashy car. They look good but they're probably heavier.

[AssociatedRacer]

Hey, is trinity foam bumper and rpm bumper a good combo? I never had a problem with breaking, but i looked at my bumper and it looks kinda worn, with a white stress line running down a part of it

[jkerr0043]

I run a Trinity foam bumper and cut down the stock plastic bumper to the minimum

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Hey Crazy, I had to drill holes to that 11/64 in my yokomo 10 spoke wheels. It fits right, but I have to thread the locknut on backwards, since the lock part of it, didn't screw onto the threads. I hate it too, because I had to do it with pliers, and it scratched the blue off of the nuts. I'm soo mad! So, will I have to do this with the CS wheels?

-A. Swift

[Crazy Canuck]

I have never had any problems with the nornal speedmind (Takeoff) wheels. The only problem has come with the foams.

All Speedmind wheels have easy nut driver access, you wont have to use pliers. And that backwards threading sounds like a problem with the car, not the wheel.

I use the RPM/Trinity combo, it works great. Go for it.

[NTC3NUT]

I use the RPM/Trinity combo also, works great & looks good too. On the wheels, you may have to do what I did on my NTC3 (with Jaco Nitro Shoes). I first ground down the outside of a wheel nut socket to fit inside the wheel. This may be all you need to do. Second, I dremeled the rim around the wheel nut area on an angle, to allow easier acccess to the nut. I know it sounds like alot of work, but on a 60mph car getting that nut tight is a must. So far on the TRC's I've been running all I've had to do is ream out the holes to fit. Even though the wheel nut is a tight fit the ground down socket has worked so far. By the way, I am very pleased with the TRC performance, it's just the cost that is killing me. (Picture my wife in the background saying "$40 for those?!?!?")

[Crazy Canuck]

If you have access to a full size lathe, you can use it to shave the head of your nut driver. You can take off at least 5mm diameter

[xxxkat]

I have a question on set ups for a tc-3,I have a megatech graphite chassis(its very light),with alot of IRS light weight parts & a titanium screw kit.Does anyone have a set up like this?The problem I'm having is with "stock" set ups the car does not feel very planted,its like the suspension is way to stiff,the track I'm running on is asphalt,tight track avg.lap times 11 sec. to 13 sec.The car is very fast(stock)The car is sorta twitchy,The tires I'm running have been sorex 24s or takeoff 22s (its been cold)It should work better than it has.Thank you for any help or idea's. Kat :confused:

[jkerr0043]

It may sound wrong, but you may want to try adding some weight. Even though weight is the enemy for a motor, if you're car is so light that it can't handle properly, the weight advantage does you no good. I have a good cold weather setup if you'd like me to email it to you. But it's with the stock chassis and I don't know if San Diego cold (mid 40's) is as cold as what you're talking about. Let me know.
jkerr0043@cox.net

[Crazy Canuck]

Move your rear shocks to the inner holes on the tower. Put both spacers in the rear hub carrier in front, so you go to the long wheelbase.

Try that, see if it helps.

[jkerr0043]

Some of you may have already seen this, but I hadn't until today. Follow the link below and go down to the part about the HPI prototype. Look's awefully familiar to us TC3 guys;) I'm surprised they let Orion post pics of it if it's still in the development stage. But what else is there to develop. Just take the TC3 parts and make the from purple aluminum:rolleyes: I just thought it was interesting.
http://www.team-orion.ch/live/results-cars.asp?id=138#corallytc

[Dingus]

Well, they may look similar, but how else can you do a shaft drive electric car?

I think they were having trouble with the design outdoor because the gearbox is exposed. I bet that would be tough with carpet too, what with the fuzz and all.

[AssociatedRacer]

It actually looks more like a Tb evolution, with that type of battery placement.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

I would say the Academy car looks more like a TC3, but that seems to be the only way to do a shaft driven car with the shaft in the center and keeping the CG low.

[Crazy Canuck]

The only way to change a shaft car would be to move the motor to the centre of the car. I dont know what difference that would make, though.

[AssociatedRacer]

heres my tc3:

http://www.cichlidfish.com/webusers/web_pages/factoryteam/DSCN5163.JPG

[samaj]

I have recently got into racing my TC3 . I have noticed that it ins'e very quite like the other TC3. What could be wrong? Do i need to open my gearbox.....?

[nmt6789]

Ok I need suggestions on stuff to get. First of all, iam going to be racing on an indoor carpet track with my TC3. Second i need good batteries, (I was thinking about gp 3300's) or something else. and Third what hole should i put the shocks in. Someone told me to put it in the middle hole for carpet. And last i need a charger. I already have an intellipeak charger but i have the $54.99 one that cant charge fast. So I was thinking about the novak millennium pro or a pulsar if i can find one.

Sorry 4 the long post

[AssociatedRacer]

hey, for batts, if u want nice matched for cheap, get integy. you can get them at www.speedtechrc.com . For the charger, i suggest a quasar pro, where you dont need a power.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

I'm considering chasis hop-ups for my TC3. I was wondering if anyone else makes something like the IRS chasis. Maybe something like a upper chasis brace over the shaft. Wider shock towers, etc.

[Crazy Canuck]

A company called Dirttrix makes some really good stuff, but their site seems to be down right now
www.dirttrix.com

[xxxkat]

Megatech has a nice chassis for the tc-3,shock towers,hubs,A arms they make just about every part their is for the tc-3.I have one of their graphite chassis kits and it looks trick,its super light & very fast.www.megatech.com/associatedtc3.html:

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Thanks guys. How about a source in Canada? I'm up to my neck paying customs and brokerage.

[Crazy Canuck]

Dirttrix is in Ottawa/Hull
www.dirttrix.com

[AudiTT-Quattro]

:eek: Their site is so confusing and seems "forum" based.

[Crazy Canuck]

Yeah I know. I wish they would make it a bit more user-friendly. Try sending them an email, or calling them.

[vvvLoKivvv]

I have a Speed Gems Pro 15T double. How should I gear for this motor. I am still trying to figure out the whole gearing for certain motor deal.

[Yosh]

G'day,

I have searched this forum before posting this question. :) How is the drivetrain affected when one sets the front and rear (TC3 Racer stock) diffs very tight? Also in opposite, how is the drivetrain affected when one sets them very loose? What would be the recomended setting when racing on high bite-ozite-carpet, tight diffs or loose diffs?

TC3 setup:

TC3 Racer kit w/ a few upgrades
24 - 30pinion (depending on track design) w/ 72 spur on a P2K2 Pro
Standard suspension setup taken from the book
24mm Trued Plaid front foam tires and trued purple rear foam tires
Corally traction compound
190mm Vauxhaull body
SMC 6-cell Matched 2400's

Thanks,

-Yosh :cool:

[micropunk]

well, im gonna say that tighter diffs would be better for hi-bite tracks...

not sure how the front and back should be set up, but you usually make em looser for dusty tracks, so I'd guess hi-bite would be tighter diffs..

--------------------

on a side note: since no one want's to put their AIM name in there profile....

if you have any pics of your tc3, or any vids, or just any general info/tips about tc3s, please AIM me @ AFNufan, or email me @ tc3punk@directvinternet.com

thnx
-Nic

[nmt6789]

Can someone suggest a charger for me??? Iam looking to buy a new charger and iam deciding between, The Digital Intellipeak, Novak Millenium, and the LRP Pulsar if i can get one.

[Racer123091]

The LRP is going to be the best (most $ too) with the intellipeak being the worst but most affordable and the novak in the middle, an ionic would be a good compromise unless you are very competitive and need to charge at higher amp rates

[samaj]

I have an expensive JR metal gear servo for my TC3. I can't seem to understand how the 'Builtin" servo saver operates.......? I can't see any return spring mechanism. I'am to scared to fix the servo without a regular servo mounted servosaver.
How many of u guys drive with just a regular servo horn & depend on the so called 'builtin' servosaver.

Someone pls explain how this system works.

cheers

[jkerr0043]

Look at the Indy 16X5. I love mine

[Dingus]

The servo saver for the tc3 is built in to the bottom of the rack in the center. There is a hole in the bottom of the chassis that leads to the adjustment screw when the rack is centered.

Did you buy an rtr? That might explain why you don't see where it is. The servo saver can be tested by holding your servo horn and turning the wheels.

I have never seen anyone run any other kind of saver in addition. I would not recommend it in any scenario because it will lead to additional steering lag and a different angle on the rack.

I keep the standard saver quite tight with a Hitec 925mg. When it gets loose it feels like the car is lagging behind your steering input.

[samaj]

I'll try it on my car.

Thanks again
Cheers

[samaj]

Dingus, i tried to hold the servo horn & tried moving the wheels. But the horn moves as well. I dont see any servo saver like action? Its a team chassis. What could be wrong...?

[Dingus]

Well,

It's impossible to give a very good explanation without seeing/and touching it, but I would recommend rebuilding it according to the manual. If it is still tight, then you can lightly grease the V shaped pieces so they turn a bit easier.

d

[Scrad]

Look into the integy 16x7 pro and the reedy quasar. Both chargers are almost the same, but the integy has a backlit lcd and is a little cheaper. I use the integy and really like it. So they are worth a look.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Speaking of the TC3 steering system, I find it hell cleaning it out. I just spent 3 hours last night cleaning the steering rack and front end, now its all spanking new graphite. Yumm.

To find the servo saver in the steering rack, it is connected to where the steering buckle (where the servo horn connects to the buckle and connects to the steering rack). Basically, if you take the shaft and the 2 screws on the bottom off, you can pull the whole steering rack off. Then you'll be able to see a spring on the BOTTOM of the rack. Refer to your manual, its clearly pictured in there.

[samaj]

I bought this car from a racer in Hongkong.I don;t have a manual. Can anyone email a copy of the steering assembly sheet .

Thanks.

[Yosh]

Click on the link below to download a free online pdf file of the TC3 manual directly from Team Associated site.
It's a 1.98Mb file. Enjoy and have fun.

Team Associated TC3 Manual PDF.file (http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/manuals/tc3manual_2001.pdf)

It should automatically download after clicking on the link.
Depending on how new your applications are, it should also run the Adobe Acrobat Reader after it downloads.
Steering assembly starts on page 3.

Later,

-Yosh :cool:

[samaj]

I have downloaded the manual file. I can see the return spring. Does this mean its absolutely 'SAFE' to risk my expensive servo at the mercy of the builtin servo saver. I'am still practising so i ususally do bang into the boards -often.

But the manual says its o.k. I guess who am i to question all those engineers........right?

Thaks to all those who replied.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

No need to worry about your servo. I bang my TC3 up sometimes pretty good and my NON metal gear servo is still brand spanking new.

[micropunk]

:rolleyes:

sorry if this is considered spam, but I'm making a site just for tc3s ( Tc3.1dumb.com (http://members.directvinternet.com/bonzoid/) )

this is what was said in the pms that I sent to everyone in the last 30 or so pages of this forum...;)

"Hello, since you have a tc3, I want to put any pics, vids, or general info about it, on my site ( Tc3.1dumb.com (http://members.directvinternet.com/bonzoid/) )...

please send them to tc3punk@directvinternet.com , or AIM me @ AFNufan

thnx
-Nic"

I'm hoping to get a tips page up soon, and just about every picture of a TC3 on the net lol

I also decieded that im soon going to remove the forum on the site, and link to all the other TC3 message boards on the internet...

if you have any tips LMK:D
thnx
-Nic

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I got the email, but I couldn't get to your page. a 404 error occured...

-A. Swift

[micropunk]

hrm..

try the links in the post above...
I just tried them a second ago, and they worked...

anyone else have a problem?

thnx
-Nic

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I got to your blue mercedes, but when I click on the car, I get to the new page, and then it goes to a 404 error...

-A. Swift

[micropunk]

hrm....

everything is good for me...

the page is http://members.directvinternet.com/bonzoid/
and Tc3.1dumb.com is a sub net, to make it easier for people to remember...

the link to the page after the intro is http://members.directvinternet.com/bonzoid/index1.html

LMK if you got any pics, ect....

Thnx
-Nic

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

It still don't work...

-A. Swift

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Hey, what ever happened to the location things on our profile bars at the left?

<---

-A. Swift

[micropunk]

hrm...

well, everyone I have talked to, was able to view it, so this is my last try...

Babelfish Translation (http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/urltrurl?lp=es_en&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmembers.directvinternet.com%2Fbon zoid%2Findex1.html)

IP link (http://216.227.56.180/bonzoid/)

hope this works, if not, try using a different computer/web browser? :(

-Nic

[Crazy Canuck]

A Swift, the location bars were removed recently do to some abuses by some of he members.

Ill post some pics of my car later, its in peices right now.

[NTC3NUT]

Here are some photos of my FT/TC3.

[NTC3NUT]

Photo #2

[NTC3NUT]

Photo #3

[NTC3NUT]

Photo #4

[NTC3NUT]

Photo #5

[NTC3NUT]

Photo #6

[NTC3NUT]

Photo #7

[NTC3NUT]

Photo #8

[redneck]

NTC3NUT

how do you like that rpm bumper

[NTC3NUT]

Photo #9
RPM bumper fits great, looks good, and works awesome.

[NTC3NUT]

Photo #10
Last one, with weight added to make 50oz.

[redneck]

i was debating about changing my buds bumper to the rpm do they come in different colours (got have more blue)

[redneck]

who makes the blue bumper foam i just noticed that in the pics

[NTC3NUT]

RPM comes in black & blue, the foam bumper is from Trinity.

[redneck]

NTC3NUT
thanks for the info

[NTC3NUT]

No problem, happy to answer any questions.

[AssociatedRacer]

ntc3nut, is there a reason for trying to move your ESC as far as you can from the motor?

[AssociatedRacer]

O ya, does anyone know what mods Barry Baker did to his tc3? I heard it was pretty different from a stock Tc3.

[redneck]

the last thing iremember seeing was he carved out the centre of his chassis so he move his batteries closer to the centre almost against the drive shaft

[NTC3NUT]

TEAMLOSIRACER
I have not had a problem mounting the ESC closer to the engine, I was just trying to move everything forward for weight (steering). If you read through instruction manuals, they will drive you crazy with mounting instructions. Just mount it where it makes the most sense for you.

Anyone else with a Quantum having problems with the case staying snapped together? I have had a few fellow racers tell me to put a drop of crazy glue on it, or run a piece of tape around it. Just wondering.

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Yea, the first time I took out my Quantum Comp out of my TC3 to clean, I pulled the case apart accidentally. It was hell getting it back together with the pins lining up. I just used a thin layer of epoxy around the casing. Its a little extreme, but it works.

I've noticed you used the NTC3 steering rack on your TC3. Hows that working? I would imagine you have to carve out the support ridges for that to fit properly. How about a few close up pics, looks very interesting. Also, why did you expand the hole for the motor to cool on the bottom?:D

Thanks.

[NTC3NUT]

Here's a copy of a post I put on another site awhile ago:

Excuse the crudeness of this picture, I am trying to highlite the "webs" you will take your measurements from to assemble the rack correctly. Measure .300"from the outside edge of the bottom web and scribe a line. Then measure .54" from the outside of the short vertical web and scribe a line, do this to each side of the short vertical web. Assuming your short vertical web is .08" thick, you should have a 1" space between the points where the scribed lines meet. Drill your holes there. I hope I explained that correctly!

[NTC3NUT]

I am very happy with the relocated battaries & the NTC3 rack. Both enhance performance, and are not that difficult to do. I opened the chassis up under the motor for additional cooling.

[AssociatedRacer]

For the quantum issue, they give you that long LRP sticker, your supposed to wrap it around and it also keeps dirt out.

[AssociatedRacer]

Ohh...SO barry's mod with the batteries is like NTC3's batteries?

[NTC3NUT]

Yeah, it's basically the same. I copied my design from Josh Cyruls car. I had a chance to see it close-up several times before Cleveland. He is a master of inovation.

[nmt6789]

What springs should i use for carpet?? I need to know soon so please post a reply.

[dolemite]

hi i just change my mind about the tamiya 414 and going to buy a tc3 kit,but i got a question about the difference between lrp 7.1 and the other one on the blue casing whats the difference

[flomofo]

Hello, im selling my factory team tc3 with electronics , add-ons which also includes a jr racing xr3 radio. I have to make some money quick to pay the rest of my registration fee for college. It'll be in the auction section by tommorow if anybody is interested and ill try to get pics for it when i post in there as well.

thx for your attention,
flomofo

[dolemite]

I hear you man any datils on the electronics:cool:

[nmt6789]

Are there any stock motors that are faster than the p2k2?

[redneck]

nmt6789

it depends on how u are using it the green machine turns higher rpm for biger tracks

[nmt6789]

Whats the wheel nut size for the tc3?? I need to know because i need a wheel nut wrench.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I believe the wheel size is 11/32...

-A. Swift

[tc3punk]

ok, now that I finnaly got my password figured out, micropunk will be retireing :D

I made some changes to my site (added users and more vids)

there's a guy on the maxxtraxx boards, that made a "mini" tc3, and I put the pics on my site

his name is schmaker, and hasn't given any info about it yet, but I'll keep you guys updated :D

Tc3.1dumb.com (http://members.directvinternet.com/bonzoid/)

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Thanks for the diagram NTC3NUT. I'll give it a try tonight... must go borrow friends digital caliper.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by nmt6789
Are there any stock motors that are faster than the p2k2?
All stock motors make the same amount of power. If youre hept on being the fastest car at the track, but some new batteries.

[tc3punk]

I'm at school right now, bu I'll LYK when I get home...

in a recent RCCA, they had a shootout between all the top stockers

and arranged them from high rpm to high torque;)

[AssociatedRacer]

Seeing Josh Cyrul's car was kinda discouraging. His Car was heavily modded, and had losi shock towers, and steering parts. Anyone know why he changed so many parts?

[RadicalRustler]

Any of you have the 4-tec? How does it compare to the tc3?

[AssociatedRacer]

teh 4tech doesnt really compare to teh TC3. It is a cheap bashing car. The tc3 is a nice race car. Barely anyone has parts for the 4tech, while you can find Tc3 parts almost everywhere. I would go for the tc3 hands down.

[Dingus]

I think Josh is one of the most innovative and creative drivers around. He is also not sponsored by Associated, but by Trinity (among others) and that allows him freedom to do what he feels is best for his chassis and track.

To me, there is not enough of this innovation going on. Reminds me of when the Original RC10 was king and you could just about build one using only aftermarket parts. Very cool.

[NTC3NUT]

Alot of guys use Losi parts on their TC3's. I have Losi c-hubs, steering knuckles, rear carriers, and ball cups on mine. I also use thier wheel bearings. I think they are better than the rubber AE bearings, and alot less expensive than the AE teflon bearings. The metal shield on one side makes it very easy to clean & reoil, without having to worry about getting the seals back in. And as I said, $5 a pair is cheep. I also agree with Dingus about Josh, his stuff is always killer. All of the mods I did to my chassis are modeled after his TC3. I just didn't have the time to do the NTC3/Losi shock tower thing.

[Crazy Canuck]

I wanna relace a few parts on my TC3, Im just not sure what. Im leaning towards the Warpspeed chassis. Looks pretty sweet. I really need a new chassis - mine is one of the first - no droop screw ears. Plus its really tweaked.

My Spur gear seems to wobble back and forth. The screws are tight, and the gear is flat. Any thoughts on this? Its a 64 Pitch, 96 tooth kimbrough. I suspect it may be the gearbox, but Im not sure.

[NTC3NUT]

Are you using the stock shafts & spur gear adapter? I switched to the IRS input shafts, and the stock plastic spur gear adapter would no longer work. It was VERY loose, and it wobbled horribly. I picked up an aftermarket aluminum adaptor and it took care of the problem.

[jkerr0043]

You're input shaft could be bent slightly.

[AssociatedRacer]

hey, do you guys think its a waste to buy a FT tc3 if i already have:

-Graphite chassis and compenets
-Ti buckles
-threaded shock bodies

The main reason i want the FT is for teh aluminum CVDs, sway bars, teflon bearings, and steering bearings


Is it worth it in your Opinion?

[AudiTT-Quattro]

I don't think its worth since you already have so much.

The sway bars are cheap for what they do.

The threaded shocks are hell for me at times. Caliper all the time.

Although the Al CVDs are nice.

I don't like the teflon bearings, again they are hell to clean but supposibly run better.

Overall, I DON'T think its worth it.

[dolemite]

yes you all ready have alot invested on you tc buy the stuff seperate if you can:cool:

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Are you using the stock shafts & spur gear adapter? I switched to the IRS input shafts, and the stock plastic spur gear adapter would no longer work. It was VERY loose, and it wobbled horribly. I picked up an aftermarket aluminum adaptor and it took care of the problem.

I have the stock input shafts and gear adapter. I just dont know how the shaft could have bent. Ive only put ~15 mod runs on the car. Its 2 1/2 years old, but still, its realy only run stock.

[NTC3NUT]

I think it all depends on how much of the blue aluminum you want. That stuff is expensive. The easiest thing to do is to add up all the parts you will need to buy to finish your car, if it's more than a FT kit ($250), or even close, you should buy the kit and use your parts as spares. You may be suprised to find that your parts list is ALOT higher than the complete kit price. You can see what I mean by just looking at the price of your aluminum CVD's, a set of 4 will cost you $40 all by themselves.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I have a problem . they other day, I was cleaning my TC3, when I took the cover off of the rear differential, and took off the shaft, I noticed one of the screws (6288) was not threading all the way through the rear input shaft (3915). Will this be a problem? Only on of them goes all the way through, adn I was wondering if this could cause vibrations at speed, and will it shake itself apart? It came with the kit like that, so I guess it was a simple error? Thanx.

-A. Swift

[SegaBowMan]

I was just looking on ebay and I found this add. Is the posted speed true using the electronics listed?

Well here is the item number: 3100658748

[Dingus]

I seriously doubt it.

Are you thinking of buying this car?

[tc3punk]

did anyone get my PM?

as I said on the other page, I sent everyone PMs....

I've gotten replies from like 5 peeps....

could the rest of you at least pm me back?:(

[SegaBowMan]

Dingus, I'm not planning on buying this car. I was just interested in the speed. I was thinking that if a TC3 could go that fast with that motor, a TL01 can do well with it too.

tc3punk, I thought I sent a reply but it must not have gone through. Anyway I don't really want a TC3 because it's a little too complicated and it guarantee's that you will run into problems from stock or hopped up form.

[tc3punk]

HA!

a tlo1 over a tc3!?!?!?

good luck with your narrow-no-gearing-bouncy-Newb car ;)

also, I hope those gears hold up:rolleyes: