Kyosho Ultima ST Type R 'GP' Forum

[athowells]

Well the RC10GT and the XXX-NT have a forum, why not the Kyosho Ultima? Well post away. :) :D ;) :p :cool:

[Scrad]

If anyone has any questions about this truck or just wanna talk about it post away.

I personally love this truck. I just got mine running and its sweet.

[Poolboy51]

Where can I buy spare parts for the Ultima?

[Scrad]

You can find most parts on Tower. Just type the code number in the search and you should find what you need. Just look in the instruction manual for the codes. What parts are you looking for by the way?

[Poolboy51]

I don't own one....yet. I decided to buy one after I read the 2-wheel drive Nitro Truck Shootout in R/C Nitro. I can get the Ultima for $50+ less than an Associated or a Losi except I knew that Kyosho parts are hard to find. Also, what's a good engine that you can put in the Ultima for racing? I'm planning to start my off-road racing carreer so I don't havea starter box yet.:D

[kawamatt]

Well once i saw it on tower for 150 with a free stand i decided right then that thats what wanted for x-mas. I will soon be joining this thread right around Christmas Day. Anyone have any major problems that myself or any other person should watch out for?

[Scrad]

I got one cause I got the truck and a O.S. motor for $215 shipped from Tower, which was far less that what I could get a Losi or Associated for. However I did order some hop up parts that totalled another 90 or so. There are a few parts that you should get because the ones are prone to breaking. So I've heard

I don't think parts are too hard to find, but you are kinda limited on where you can shop for them. Pretty much only Tower.

As for a motor for racing you should ask DirtRacinFool, he has an Ultima also and he knows quite a but more than I do. But I think the O.S. type R would be good. I have the O.S. Cv, but my track I'll be racing at is small and tight, so that motor will be good for me to use.

[Scrad]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?Q=1&I=LXUW90

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?Q=1&I=LXUW88

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?Q=1&I=LXUW89

I would look into these hop ups for the truck. They are the most prone to breaking. I also got a thicker chassis, but I don't know if you would really need it. There is also a front brace, but tower didn't carry it. I've also heard that the rear shock tower is kinda weak. I have the original one on mine. It doesn't seem very stiff, so I could see how it would break. I have a friend that made me a carbon one for 8 dollars.

I got my truck at the same time, it was just so cheap and with a stand too. I ordered it for myself for x mas and I'm making my parents pay for it. I got to open it early too :D

[Poolboy51]

How'd you get it so cheap?:confused: I looked on Towerhobbies.com like 5 seconds ago and it's 186+ for the kit only. Is their some sort of special deal on it other than on the price listings. I don't want my parents to pay too much:D

[DirtRacinFool]

I'm running a O.S. CZ-Z 12 in my Ultima, its the older version of the CV 12, which makes plenty of power for most tracks. If you want a 1+hp engine, then I highly recommend the O.S. CV-R 12, its a powerhouse, and very easy to tune. I also recommend the NovaRossi CX12, it a very powerful engine, but a bit harder to tune then the O.S.
My biggest gripe about the Ultima is that Kyosho only makes one clutch bell for it right now, so gearing is limited. On the plus side, you can replace the flywheel, clutch bell and spur gear with Associated RC10GT parts, doing that gives a wide variety of gearing, and these parts can be found at just about every hobby shop in the country.
Besides that, the Ultima Rocks!! Kyosho did a great job designing this truck, i've been happier with it, then with my GT. :D

[Scrad]

Poolboy, I got it early through the Christmas specials. It was only offered during November. It was marked down to 150 when I got it. Go to the Daily sale page the price goes down a little every day. Make sure you use there discounts that they list on the web page. The motor I got is also on there. Its the CV x Natural. But that motor isn't really a high performance motor, but like I said before my track I'll be racing at is pretty small, so I didn't need the CV r's added speed.

[Poolboy51]

I just ordered Duratrax Real Race to see if a nitro truck is REALLY what I want. I'm pretty sure it is ever since I saw my local track. What engine do you think woul fit this track:

National RC (http://www.nationalrc.com)
(This a great website for Off-road nitro. It's an 1hr1/2 farther away than my 3 other LHS's so I've never been there. click on LINKS then click on Bear Creek Raceway.:cool:

[Scrad]

Poolboy, I'd get an O.S. CV R 12 or the Nova Rossi like Dirt said. That track is pretty big, a lot biggger than mine. That is if you have the money for them. If not the CV X is cheap and would do ok, but the other motors are more of a race motor. I love the motocross gates that the track has. Where in WA do you live?

[Bourck]

you can use a GT carbon rear shock tower, it is tough to break. You have to drill a couple holes through it though because the bolt pattern isn't exactly the same. I wish they had a aluminum rear bulkhead for the GP Ultima though.
later, Bourck:)

[Poolboy51]

Seattle area

My fav. LHS's web. isRedmond hobbies (http://www.Redmondhobbies.com) This store is really, really good for HPI
on road and offroad and T-MAXX aluminum. I visited their today and they're starting to carry 1/8 buggies for all you 1/8 fans

[Scrad]

Poolboy, I was just wondering cause my old girlfriend lived in Sumner.

Bourck, I found an aluminum rear shock tower somewhere on the web, but I can't remember where. Dirt might know he had one.

I think it was at JTracingproducts.com

[DirtRacinFool]

Bourck, www.jtracingproducts.com doesn't make rear bulkheads for the Ultima. I haven't found anyone who does, yet. I personally haven't had any problems with the rear bulkhead, I have however trashed 3 of the rear shock towers. I bought the JT front and Rear aluminum shock towers, and liked them both, but a very hard hit from another driver, bent the rear tower. I designed and built my own from 3/16" think 6061-T6 aluminum and haven't had a problem since. I do however like the idea of modifing a RC10GT Graphite tower and using it, I might do that in the near future and see how it works.

[Bourck]

Dirtracingfool. I used the carbon rear shock tower for quite a while while I was learning to "fly" on some of our larg table tops. Anyway, I would case it in the back often and had some gnarly wrecks. ANyway, the GT carbon shock tower took all the abuse, but eventually the rear bukhead would break right at the bottom of the shocktower. It really isnt that the rear bulk head is weak, it is just that it was the weakest link after adding the tough Graphite tower. I actually made a graphite rear shock tower that travels all the way down to the chassis and nestles just in from of the battery holder, it unites the entire rear and it is now indestructable. Course now I don't wreck like I used to either. I also have the kyosho aluminum front plate, the kyosho rear aluminum "hard" suspension holders, the rear transmission aluminum Trinity brace. I have also tried the JT aluminum "long chassis, it is reallly beefy. I say jeremy Kortz drive his Kyosho ultima at a race and he was awesome, definitely the fastest that day against AE and LOSI.. hE had also lowered his throttle servo under the tray. added an extra aluminum brace at the corner of the radio tray, and he had the aluminum front, rear suspension holders, and the kyosho rear transmission brace.
He also told me that Kyosho was going to releas a pro version soon with all the aluminum hop ups.
Also, I thought that the stock front shock towers were indestructable, I've never broken one.
Later, Bourck

[DirtRacinFool]

bourck, I understand now why you'd like to see a better rear bulkhead. I'll look at what it takes to make the bulkhead out of 6061-T6, if its something I can build, i'd be more then happy to make one for you and any other Ultima driver thats interested.
I'll keep you posted.

[DirtRacinFool]

Congrats to Jeremy Kortz for taking the win at the 2001, 11th Annual Kyosho Nitro Challange in Detroit!!

1st, Jeremy Kortz, O.S. powered Ultima ST-R
2nd, Jared Tebo, Mugen/O'Donnell powered FTGT
3rd, Richie Parkhurst, O.S. powered XXXNT
4th, Adam Drake, Picco powered XXXNT
5th, Billy Easton, Mugen powered FTGT
6th, Dave Werthman, O.S. powered XXXNT
7th, Greg Degani, O.S. powered Ultima ST-R
8th, Richard Saxton, RB/O'Donnell powered FTGT
9th, Travis Amezcua, Picco powered XXXNT
10th, Jess Albright, O.S. powered XXXNT

What do you think guys, does this show these non-believers that Kyosho has designed a Winner? :D

[Poolboy51]

Yeah. I just read that in the February 2001 issue (even though it's only the 23rd of December:D ;) :p :rolleyes: :cool: :) :eek: ) I've finally seen a Kyosho win. It's wierd that most of the cars in the A main weren't even Kyosho cars:eek:

[Scrad]

That's pretty cool. About time Kyosho wins. Jeremy is always fast, but something happens every time.

Was that news in RC Nitro or Car Action?

[DirtRacinFool]

It's in Car Actions Feb 2002 issue.

[Scrad]

Here is a pic of my Ultima...

[Scrad]

One more of the chassis...

[DirtRacinFool]

Nice Scrad, heres a pic of my Ultima.

[DirtRacinFool]

Heres one of the Chassis, which was custom made by me.

[Poolboy51]

DirtRacinFool-
Does your chassis handle better than the stock one?

[DirtRacinFool]

It still handles as good as it did with the stock chassis, I just wanted something stronger, so I made that one. The Gold Chassis that Scrad has on his is a thicker version of the stock chassis, quite honestly, if I had known those were available I would have just bought one, instead of building the one I have.

[tie-rod]

yea Kortz did look pretty good , and at the end him and Tebo had a good race , some of the Losi's had problem,s in the main that let them two get back up front , but Saxton was schooling everybody making them all look bad he had the whole field a lap+ down prior to breaking his throttle linkage , Degani also looked pretty good early with his kyosho , but Saxton was totally dominating but you got to finish to win.

[Poolboy51]

Were you there?

[tie-rod]

yea i was there , it was hot and dusty , i talked to people that have been going there 10 years to that race and said track conditions were the worst they have ever seen and i'd have to agree they were the track conditions i've ever seen anywhere...LOL

[KYO Type-R]

This is just a test to see if I registered correctly.

[KYO Type-R]

Hey I just got the Kyosho Ultima Type-R. I was wondering where Scrad got that thick gold chassis, I can't find it any where on the web but think I'll probably need it eventually. Secondly I was wondering if anyone could tell me how I could get a listing of the rules for racing IFMAR/ROAR you no what I mean. This is my first foray into stadium trucks and there are only about 2 or 3 tracks around me and all are quite a drive so I'd hate to be sent home packing because my truck wasn't legal to race.

[Poolboy51]

1. I think Tower Hobbies (http://www.towerhobbies.com) click on product/price listings, click on gas cars and trucks, click on Kyosho Ultima ST-R GP, click on spare parts, then see if they have it or click on required accesories then click on Optional Accesorie then see if they have it!
2. Try ROAR's (http://www.roarracing.com) web.:D

[Scrad]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?Q=1&I=LXUN90

KYO, Click on that and it will take you to the chassis. It's actually a 2.5 milli meters thick or at least that's what the bag said not 3. It's definantly thicker than the stock one and is stiffer. Also check out the other hop ups that are listed earlier in this thread.

[Bourck]

I also have JT racing chassis for the Ultima. It is as think as the Losi chassis, and stiff. They have a "long chassis" that adds about 4 mm length. I heard that Greg Degani runs this chassis but I'm not sure.
Later, BOurck

[Poolboy51]

I would've given you that exact adresse but I wuz to lazy to type all that!:D

[DirtRacinFool]

Bourck, I checked JT racings website and did not find anything on that chassis, do you have a link? I'd like to see one.

Thanks

[Bourck]

The GP/EP Chassis (Long) is JT206L . Call them at 1 866 587 2246. Dont know if it is on there web sites, but is shown on their magazing advertisements under Kyosho. The chassis is thick, flat, with countersunk screwholes, aluminum color with JT Racing scribed on the bottom. It is about 65$ though, I think it will last forever. The Long chassis makes it the same length as the Losi. It is heavier than the other chassis but that low CG weight makes it handle well. It is suppost to help with the on power steering some. Jeremy kortz had a factory chassis but he ran a 1/4 oz lead weight on front.

Have you figured out the best way to keep screws from backing out of the aluminum rear suspension holders??? The forward screw is too close to the transmission to get a lock nut on very easily.

Thanks, Cash. I can try to get a picture of my rig up, we'll see.

[KYO Type-R]

Thanks for the info guys. I must say these message boards have been my saving grace being relatively new to this hobby. I glanced at the ROAR rules. The way I figure it the ST-R should pretty much be legal as long as I put a .12 engine in it and don't use too long a fuel line or too big a fuel filter right. It will be a while before I go racing anyway, winter time up here in the northeast and we just had some snow, so outside racing is a not going on right now. i wonder why Tower doesn't list the Trinity lower chassis brace. It is one peice that takes the place of the two stock center bulkheads. Seems as though with this and their upper tranny and rear suspension mounts along with JT's front and rear shock towers and the thick chassis the ST-R should be pretty reliable. I own an almost all aluminum T-Maxx that is from what I've experienced almost indestructable. The reason I got the ST-R was my buddy got an Ultima buggy and when we play around with each other he absolutely smokes me until he breaks something, usually when he tries to follow me off jumps. I told him nothing can catch air like a T-Maxx. So now with the ST-R I can show him how to drive a little more civilized. It may sound wierd to you guys but I think half the fun of these things is fixing them and upgrading what you break. In saying that the T Maxx has become kind of boring. That is until I have the cash to drop a .21 into it. I still land a huge jump once in while that makes my friends jaw drop and mine, saying how the heck did you land that and I have to remind my buddy that nothing jumps like T-Maxx.

[Scrad]

I wrote an e mail to JT racing awhile back, because the chassis isn't on the web page. I remember them giving me a price, but I can't remember how much it was, but I do remember it was kinda expensive. So I got the gold chassis instead. It's the same lenght as the stock one, but thicker. It is pretty stiff though, with the trinity transmission brace on. The only thing that I notice that flexes is the radio tray. So if anyone finds a thicker radio tray let me know...

[DirtRacinFool]

After doing some checking, i'm gonna opt for the same chassis that Scrad got for his Ultima. I really like the looks of it and for the price, I can't go wrong. :D

[ameittunen]

The Ultimas suck

[Poolboy51]

ameittunen-
do you have the RTR?:confused:

[DirtRacinFool]

ameittunen, is probably one of those who think if it isn't Associated or Losi, its not worth having.:rolleyes:

[ameittunen]

i have a duratrax evader. Acouple o fmy friends had ultimas and they suck, everything brok eon them, bu ti don tkno wif they changed them or if they got better.

[Poolboy51]

Do they have the Electric RTR


I just wanted to try out the different sizes, and colors.:D

[KYO Type-R]

has anyone had any problems with the transmision top shaft breaking at the end of the threads where the slipper nut screws on when adjusting the slipper clutch. if so does anyone make a beefier one, this has happened twice to me already, once when I was assembling the truck and now again. Good thing I ordered two but unfortuneatly I lost the thrust washers and spring this time so I'm waiting for them and ordered another shaft just in case. Now I'm wandering if I'm overtightening it. But in the directions it says to tighten all they way and then back it off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. If so then I have a problem some where else because the truck isn't moving right. At light throttle it seems ok but when I get on it, it revs up quickly and doesn't get anywhere fast. The spur spins right up and I've checked twice to make sure my flywheel was good and tight because I did have a problem with that at first so I cut a couple of threads of my crankshaft(the clutch nut was bottoming out). The only other thing I can think of is maybe my diff is too loose. I set it according to the directions but they were very vague. It also spins out a lot on low traction stuff like if I get on it at all but on high traction surface revs up like mad but doesn't move to quickly so it would seem to be diff related. So if any one has a better way to adjust the diff it would be much appreciated. Thanx

[Bourck]

I did the exact same thing when I assembled my car the first time. You have to be careful when you tighten it "all the way" or you will twist off the tip. I've never broken it since . You should make sure that your slipper is set up right and that the pad and washers are clean. My slipper worked fine. If it is slipping tighten it down about 1/8th or 1/4 turn at a time and run it. I usually set my slipper so that if I hold the rear passenger tire and the spur with one hand, and turn the other wheel that the slipper slips before the differential slips, ( this also assures that your diff is tight enough). You have to look right at the slipper to check where the slipping is coming from.

Hope this helps.

[Scrad]

I would also make sure that the diff is good and tight. If it rev's up and doesn't move it would have to be the diff or the slipper. I tighten the diff about as tight as I can get it and make the slipper to the work. Also one more thing if those aren't your problems. Make sure the rims of your tires are in that little grove on the axles. I had that problem and I thought it was my diff are first.

[KYO Type-R]

Thanx for the info guys. I also found a post on the RC10GT thread about adjusting ball diffs. That guy said to hold the spur gear and see if both rear tires will turn on a high traction surface like carpet or if the slipper slips first then you know the diff is tighter than the slipper. If the wheels turn and the slipper doesn't it's way too loose. Then grab one wheel and the spur and try to spin the other wheel. If you can't turn it it's two tight. It should turn but with a lot of resistance. So bassically high traction at both wheels should slip at the clutch and with high traction at only one wheel the other wheel will slip before the clutch. But how do you know if the slipper is tight enough because if it's too loose then the diff could still be loose if your setting it by the slipper. I hope this makes sense, this is my first experience with a ball diff but it should be pretty straight forward for a mechanically inclined person like myself so this is making me feel pretty stupid.

[Bourck]

I think that you've basically got it down. THe first thing you need to set is the Diff. Follow the directions and it will get you close. When the ball diff is too tight, the diff action will be too stiff. Start by snugging your slipper clutch pretty tight so that you wont get slippage at the slipper clutch. Then hold the rear passenger wheel and the spur gear steady with one hand. Turning the other wheel should be pretty stiff cause any turning of that wheel is from slippage of the diff. Now, hold the spur gear steady and turn either wheel. If it is very stiff to turn one wheel, thus making the other wheel turn opposite, than the diff may be too tight. You have to find just the right balance so the diff action is smooth, but without slippage of the diff. Once the diff is set where you want it. Start loosening the slipper. Again hold the spur and rear passenger wheel steady. Turn the driver rear wheel. The slipper will be loose enough when turning the driver wheel causes the slipper to turn, instead of the diff to slip. Slipping of the diff burns up diffs so you need to err slightly towards the too tight diff. ALso, the diff tends to loosen up some after breaking in so you have to check it perildically.
I hope this isn't to wordy.
goodluck, Cash

[KYO Type-R]

Thanx, man. I think I got it now. The only part that I'm worried about is tightening the slipper. Can you do me a favor and check to see about where your lock nut sits, you know flush or just past flush. When the instructions say to tighten it all the way do they mean compress the spring all the way. I hope not because I'm not going to try that again 'cause I know thw shaft will snap considering it has done it twice already. I have another top shaft just in case but man I can't keep snapping them at almost $10 a pop. Again, thanx for the help.

[Scrad]

I looked at my truck and my shaft is probably flush with the nut, but it actually sticks out about 1mm past the nylon locking part. So try to make the shaft flush with the top of the nut or a little bit recessed.

One tip I've learned about R/C is that you don't have to use super man powers to tighten stuff. It's not like a real car. It's a toy that is plastic. I've learned that the hard way.

[KYO Type-R]

Got it working good now. I tightened the diff until I couldn't turn one side buy hand while holding the other side(with it out of the tranny holding the outdrives not by the wheel). Then backed it off just until I could turn it leaving it real stiff. Set my slipper nut to flush with the shaft but ended up backing it off just a tad once I started running the truck. I think the diff was set a little to tight at first but has seemed to break in nicely. So all is well. Thanks a lot Scrad, I really appreciate your patients with my lack of knowledge in this diff set-up. Got about 8 tanks through it today and I know one thing for sure. The engine I have on it is total overkill. I'm running a Megatech .16 on it for now. I just rebiult my O.S. .15 CV-X and haven't had a chance to break it in and my T Maxx is all torn apart for a good and thorough cleaning. So I decided to break the T Maxx's new engine in on the Ultima so I can just drop it in to the T when I get it back together and then I'll break in the O.S. and probably leave it in for bashing and run a O.S. CV-R for racing if I do get into the sport this spring and summer. So you actually helped me out big time by finally getting the chance to break in the .16 Megatech as well. Got it all broke in and this engine is totally insane for this truck. I still have it running rich and it has much more than enough power for this little truck. I'm not that great a driver since the T Maxx has been spoiling me with it's super plush suspension and four-wheel drive. Controlling this thing is a whole lot more of a challenge. Once I get driving this down my T will be childs play. The .16 is just a stepping stone for the T, it is evetually going to get a .21. The Ultima stood up to power of the .16 a whole lot better than my driving. I put quite a beating on it today with the hard frozen dirt, dump truck ruts and mounds in a nearby sand pit. Flipped a few times, even a real nasty cart wheel off a stone wall(don't ask)and nothing broke except my antenna tube. First time out with it and I've come away pretty impressed with this trucks durabilty. Now I need work on getting the suspension dialed in. Do you guys have any suggestions. Most importantly right now is how too get more traction at the rear. I have a slight bit of negative camber dialed in at the rear and I'm using the middle hole on the shock tower, the inner hole on the A-arm, and the upper hole on the knuckle. I've got 40 wieght oil and one large preload spacer(which basically just ook up the spring slop)and one of the smallest spacers.

[Scrad]

Sounds like you are having a good time with your Ultima. I wish I could get mine out of the closet. Damn snow!!! I couldn't imagine a 16 in my truck. That would be insane. Don't worry about not knowing about what to do to stuff. You'll never know until you ask someone. Plus we have all been there at one time or another. I bugged DirtRacinFool for months about the Ultima, but he was glad to help me out.

A different set of tires will help in the traction department. And that would be the easiest thing to do. Are you just not getting traction to get going? Or like when you are turning and it won't turn? I can't remember the effects of camber. I think more negative camber gives more traction in the rear. But I can't remember for sure. I've only been breaking my truck in so far. So I don't know of a good set up for you to try. Dirt might know of something good.

[Bourck]

At one point someone posted the set up for Chad Bradley or other Kyosho driver, I'll try to find it or you may search for it on this site or at the extreme RC site.
ANyway, I use 30 wt oil all around. I changed to softer springs. I usually use Losi cause they had a variety, now Kyosho sell different spring settings. NO matter what springs you are using you should set up (remove or add shock spacers) to your car so that after dropping it level from about 6 inches, the car ends up sitting with the rear axles (dog bones) level to the ground, and the front swing arms level to the ground.
In general, lowering the back end, raising the front, or using softer springs increases traction. Lowering the front end or softer front springs increases turning.
I'd probably start with all the above mentions things before changing springs though, also, a slow trigger finger helps traction quite a bit.
Cash

[KYO Type-R]

Yeah, a slower trigger finger is probably the best advice. especially with the .16 engine. I'm leaving it real rich on the low end needle so it bogs just a little off the line. Once I get it to bite like that then I'll get it tuned right. What would you guys recomend for a replacement tire. I've got it set up pretty soft as far as spring rates, it sits slightly lower than level in the rear and about level in front. I'm looking for more traction, get a lot of power on oversteer with the .16 even once I get going pretty good understeer is not an issue. In fact , I wish I could get some. I'm going to try dropping down to 30 weight oil in the rear, I have 40 front and rear now. I'm also going to try adding a tad more negative camber and moving the upper shock mounting position down to the lower hole to get my arms level in the rear. I think these tweaks should help give it a little more squat on acceleration and keep the chassis from maybe bottoming out causing a loss of traction. The springs are set pretty soft so I'm going to leave them at this setting for now.

[jeff67]

Hey Guys, I have a GP ULTIMA ST ( SPORTS ) that I really like, but
I have a question. What parts, if any, will interchange between the TYPE-R and the SPORTS ? One part for ex. is the gear box.
Also front and rear carriers, A-arms, really just any thing that might be the same.:confused:

[KYO Type-R]

That's going to be a tough thing to figure out. The ST sports part #'s all start with RS while the ST-R's start with UM and the numbers don't match but I know for a fact that a lot of these parts are interchangeable. Also the cost is much higher on the ST-R UM parts. Don't know if maybe they are made out of different plastic or what. I know for a fact that A-arms are interchangeable because I had a set that I ordered for a buddy and they look exactly the same. But the numbers for the sport are RS001 and RS002 and cost $2.15 and $1.65, while UM101 and UM102 for the ST-R are listed add $4.99 each. There's a lot of number like this with the 001 and 101 and 002 and 102. My best guess right now is that the numbers which resemble each other in this way are probably interchangeable but made out different plastic whether it is stonger, more flexible or if Kyosho and Tower Hobbies are just playing some mean trick to get more money from people who bought the R model, I don't know.

[Scrad]

Hey guys I found this link on the other Ultima forum. It has some more hop ups,

http://www.jamminproducts.com/kyosho.htm

Our thread has been pretty quiet lately. I guess its just been cold for the gas...

[KYO Type-R]

Yeah, the thread has been pretty dead lately. Got to run mine this weekend quite a bit. My buddy and I both have Ultima's. His is an Ultima buggy (the sport version) with the GS .15-R engine and mine is the ST-R to which I strapped on a Megatech .16 engine. I was fighting traction problems last year big time with the .16 not even in tune. Well after a weekend worth of practice I'm getting to be a better driver with the throttle. I set mine up for backyard bashing and jumping with HPI universal front and rear rims and Proline masher 2000 monster tires. Once I did the tire switch I realized what a difference gearing makes. This engine was bogging real bad with the bigger tires so now I was ready to tune it up a some and now the truck will flip over on it's lid. My buddy has hopped his buggy up with the longer truck arms, turnbuckles, a tuned pipe and HPI rims with Duratrax MT tires so it is essentially a truck with a buggy body on it. We killed about a half a gallon of nitro this weekend between the both of them and came away impressed with the durability of the Ultima's. The only things we broke were a rear arm mount on my truck and a front arm on his and we were bashing them pretty hard.

[baileym]

There will be an updated Ultima GP released in a couple of months The team drivers will be testing a bunch of new parts at the SilverState Challenge in a week or so. The truck will still be the same, but beefed up in a lot of the weak parts. I got this info from the Head of Team Kyosho. Check it out at the www.RC411.com bulletin board.

[BjS]

I don't know if this sounds naive but is it possile to fit rc10gt suspension arms to the ultima with little or even no modification

Also Why is the Ultima so much cheaper than the RC10GT and XXXNT?:) :confused: :)

[tbrathwaite200]

For all of you GP Ultima ST type R or Sport: Its time to face up to the compatition, Lossi and Associated. We are the proud owners of a true contender, together we can make this be known. Lets team up and show our stuff, my current setup for my truck is and O.S. .15 CZR "***** ripping speeds" and the Futaba magnum JR FM. Keeps us updated on your tricks and tips.

[kawamatt]

Here is mine. It has a .12 cv-r, some cheap futaba gear, a dynamite tuned pipe and now a high torque Hitec servo.

I haven't really put her to the test yet. Its still pretty new.http://C:\download\kawamatt\car1.jpg

[kawamatt]

D@mn! I still haven't figured out how to insert a picture. it always say the file is too big.

[DR_RC_LUVA]

Yea, this truck is every bit as good as the GT....Not a whole lot of parts support though. I'm thinking about getting one. Tower now has the Type R for $150!!! That is dirt spankin cheap.

[Scrad]

Hey guys I was just wondering if you all were still alive.

I've been running my ultima lately and it's been running really well. Finally got it completely broken in. I've also noticed that the ultima has been holding up to some pretty good abuse too. Well guy's let me know if you are running your truck and how things are going.

[kawamatt]

I have also been running mine just a bit.


I am dissapointed at it though. I put a set of Dirt Paws on it and ran it around the yard for a while. It would wheelie on command. I didn't even get through a tank when it just stops and revs but doesn't move. So i go to investigate and find that i have stripped the spur. I always thought that the teeth were too small. I guess the grass and wheelies put too much of a strain on it.


Well i adapted an Ultima RTR spur to it because the teeth were bigger and installed a larger clutch bell to prevent the wheelies. I took it out and wouldn't you know before i even got through a tank it stops again but keeps revvin. So i go over and the spur is turnin but car is not. I'm like what the ****. So i take it apart only to find i have stripped the idler gear.

D@mmit by this time i was ready to trash the peice a *****. I refrained though and ordered the robinson racing steel idler and aluminum main gear in hopes of this not happening again.

I know i should just loosen the slipper but i love to hit those wheelies.

Kawa

[Scrad]

Hey kawa, let me know how that idler gear works out. I haven't had any transmission problems yet, knock on wood. You definantly have to set that slipper right or you'll just eat up gears running nitro. You should check your gear mesh too. I've heard that the top shaft will flex under high loads, so I'd set it a little tighter than too loose and risk stripping the spur.

What kinda motor are you running on your truck?

[kawamatt]

Well i just got it today. Haha and Tower said it would be here the 12th. I have gotten it installed but haven't got the truck all back together. While i was orderin i also got the aluminum main gear. Do you think i would need any type of lubrication since all the gears are metal?

Right now i have a .12 cv-r in it with all the head shims removed to get that little extra.

Also i have another question. Well when i was out running it the other day i had the OS 102 filter that came with the engine on it and it was runnin great at around 230 or somethin. So i pack it in after a while and go home. The next day before i started it up i put on a smaller HPI filter becuase i figured that it would be easier to suck air if the filter was smaller. Well i got it going and warmed up, then i checked the temp. and it was d@mn near 310. I freaked out cause i was worried about blowing up the engine so i immediately richened it progressively on the top end until i had gone a full turn out from what it was the day before. At this the temp. only got down to 275 maybe and i can't figure out why the settings changed so much. I mean the temp. outside didn't fluxuate but maybe a few degrees. So what do you think happened?

[Scrad]

Well kawa, I think that by putting on the smaller air filter it doesn't let the engine breath as much, so you had to compensate by richining up the mixture. If you have the OS filter that has two foam disks inside I'd use that. Its a good filter. As for the gears I would put a little of the grease on the gears that came with the kit.

[kawamatt]

Hey thanks, i will grease them some.

Also i have another question. I don't really like the bodies that come on most stadium trucks these days and would like to put like a proline F-350 body on it. I think the style with the actual bed and all instead of the slanted way stadium truck bodies have looks much better. My question is does anyone know how you could put taller body mounts on the front. Seeing as how the shock tower is slanted if you bolted longer post directly to it they would meet the body at a weird angle and probably be pretty weak. So does anyone know a way to mount some on the front.

[T-Maxxahol]

how about that gold chassis , anyhow been lookin for a trinity front kickup plate anyone know where i can find one or anything close,,,( Kyosho really comin out with hop ups?) Have a GP type R, with a Phantom 12 , ASS. mip 4-1 clutch, clutch bell and nut, 4-40 ball stud,, ( just have to drill you c hub a little) Rpm ball cups
and lunsford titanium, of a GT. little tight but it all works,, , trinity raer arm mounts and rear hub carrier, ( 4 sale never used, ) and a Jt racing, shock tower,,

[T-Maxxahol]

have a type R bought when first came out....
I have raced it for two years love the trucks consistent performance,,
I have the following upgrades,, or changes

i changed the cluthc bell and nut, clutch and and flywheel to associtaed, Mip flywheel, 4-1 cltch for gt, and 14 t bell
assoc spur..
4-40 ball studs and Assoc front kingpin of of a Gt.. little drillin but not much
RPM ball cups..
Lunsford titanium turnbuckles off of a Gt (fit good)
JT Racing Aluminum shock tower,,
Trinity, Rear arm mounnts and rear Hub carrier( 4 sale never used)
XR@ radio, Hitec speed torque combo servo,
nimh pack, LOOKING 4 FRONT KICK UP PLATE FROM TRINITY ANY HELP

[Scrad]

Don't know what happend here...

[Scrad]

I got the gold chassis from tower, there should be a link earlier in the thread. If not go to towers search and type kyosho hard chassis and it should come up. As for the kickup I can't find that either. But I have all of the other Trinity hop ups. How do you like that Fantom motor? I was thinking about getting one, but I've heard it doesn't have good low end torque. Got any pic's of your ride?

Kawa I'll look at the truck and see if I can come up with an idea for you.

[T-Maxxahol]

THE Fantom doesnt seem to have great lew end but mid to high end torque is crazy fast,,, probably be a better touring motor but it tunes fairly well,, and rusn strong in the 230 range,, that is why i went with the 14 tooth clutch bell to get some go back,,,

[T-Maxxahol]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUN52&P=M

[KYO Type-R]

Hey, it's been a while since my last post but I see the thread is picking back up. Been out bashing mine with out to many problems. the main things I was breaking were rear shock towers and rear arm mounts. I upgraded to the Trinity arm mounts and haven't had a problem since. Tried a carbon rear shock tower, lasted one day so I'll stick with plastic. They a cheap and easy to replace any way. I run HPI offset rims and Proline Masher 2000's for bashing and run a Megatech .16 with the stock gearing and the big tires it still rips wheelies. I run my slipper pretty tight as well as the diff(which is do for a rebuild)and have had no problems with gears. It's a lot harder to jump than my T Maxx but I've managed to get some good 4 or 5 foot leaps out of it. I routinely jump it off a stone wall which is about a 4 foot drop and it sneezes at it. The skateboard kicker is a little more trick it takes the right throttle input to keep it level. Better to give it too much than too little though. nose it down and thing will do end over end forever and that's when the rear shock towers go bye bye. Don't get me wrong this is some big time abuse and I'm actually impressed with the durabilty of this truck.

[PtCruiser2003]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Poolboy51
[B]Do they have the Electric RTR

whats wrong with that. Thats what i got to start out with and i have so much fun with it . I just wish i could get metal main gears cause mine keep striping out. last time i opened my gearbox it was like some one had put my gears through a pencil sharpener.

[Scrad]

Check out Robinson Racing, they have gears for Ultima.

[DirtRacinFool]

Well, its been a while since I posted anything on RCCA's BB, so I figured i'd show off my new (used) Ultima. I spent about a week doing a few mods, and setting up a new Deans Speed Secret body for it. What do you think?

[Scrad]

Jerry, that truck looks familier. LOL. I kinda miss her already. But I like running the T-Maxx. Are you going to use my old body?

[DirtRacinFool]

Nice her already? LOL Yeah Chad, i'm gonna use your original body first, its still in very good shape. For now, the Deans body is just for pictures. LOL Glad to hear the T-Maxx is keeping you happy!! One of these day the wife and son will let me run the Stampede I got from you too. ;)

[T-Maxxahol]

heres my ultima scrad ill race come to Pa,,, lol

[T-Maxxahol]

Ive Got Trinity Aluminum Hub Carriers for sale 25$ shipped to you,,, they are new in package i cannot use because I converted all my ballstuds to 4-40, so i could run lunsford ***, ties and RPM ballcups,,, I can be reached at fishgeek25@aol.com

[Poolboy51]

Looks like I might get one of these soon! The $$$ are coming in fast. I think I'll sell my evader since I like Nitro better :cool: Im probably gonna get it with a CV and buy a starter box and also get a Futaba PH radio for now but a better radio later.:cool:

[PtCruiser2003]

is the gear box from the nitro one the same as the one in the electric? If not can i switch out my electric gearbox for the nitro one? Cause i broke my 4th set of gears this weekend. It is not supposed to be breaking so much.

[DirtRacinFool]

Pt, do you have the ST-R or the Sports?

[Scrad]

You should also look into the aluminum gears Robison Racing has...

Poolboy, you should also look into the xxx-nt sport. I traded my Ultima to Dirt and got a regular xxx-nt and that thing is great, and faster than the Ultima out of the box, but that's only because the Ultima is geared lower. Just a thought for you... I 'm not saying the Ultima isn't good, because it really is. If my LHS had more parts for it I would have kept it.

[PtCruiser2003]

I have the sports and i looked at robinson. They didnt have the two i need.

[DirtRacinFool]

I'm not sure if this is what your looking for, but its listed under the "option parts" on the Kyosho web site for the Ultima Sports. Heres the Link to Towers site, it has a pic of the gears. Also, i'll give you a link to the Kyosho Parts list for the Sports.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p.pgm?FVPROFIL=2+&FVSEARCH=KYOC2341&search=Go

http://www.kyosho.com/parts/xr31972r21us.html

[PtCruiser2003]

they have the part on tower but no picture. I ordered 5 sets (ougt to get me through two races at least.) Ill take a pic with my digital camera on thursday when they come in.

[DirtRacinFool]

I just added the Kyosho Aluminum front chassis plate to my Ultima, guys, this part is worth the money!! It made the front end much more solid, and now the front suspension works like a dream. I highly recommend getting this part. Your LHS can get you this part if Great Plains is one of the distibutors they use, otherwise, you can order it from Tower. :D
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUN52&P=7

[Jethro]

Is the ultima a good raceing truck. I might start to race and will it beat a xxx-nt, or gt. I will either put a O.S .12 cv engine or a ofna force 12s. Please tell me quickly. Thanks

[RamCharger]

heres my ultima http://a2.cpimg.com/image/74/F3/11054452-c14b-02000120-.jpg

[RamCharger]

Btw its a sports. it still hauls though!http://a5.cpimg.com/image/81/F3/11054465-3681-02000120-.jpg

[DirtRacinFool]

RamCharger, nice looking Sports. :cool: Looks very racey, nice job!

[t.c.s.s.s.s.m.]

What engine comes with this?

[Poolboy51]

Considering your banned for having two ID's I dont know if you'll read this but oh well. The type R not RTR version comes with no engine but I've heard the engine mount is VERY good.

[popee]

o.k A while ago I bought 2 Nitro Ultima Buggys. One of the cars the Engine wouldnt startup, The sleeve that holds the pistol was tight, so it wasnt letting the piston move up freely. On the other car It sometimes cut out when I stopped. Then I was running it and I heard a large bang. The Piston Rod Snapped in half. No lies it snapped in half, I was like ***?


Anyways my warranty has gone on both of them. I need a replacment engine. The car had a GX15-CRG Engine in it. Can anybody recommend a cheap reliable engine for it? I also need a new cluch and pinion, where do I get the spares from? i live in the UK. Im more concerned about the engines though. Also I would be cool to ahve a pullstar engine!

Has anybody ever snapped the piston ROD before?

[DirtRacinFool]

If you want to stick with a .15 sized engine, my suggestion would be the O.S. CV15, you can order this engine, plus the additional parts you need from Tower Hobbies. There reputation is second to none, so there would be no need of worrying if you'd get your order or not. You might want to take a look at Kyosho's website too, they may have a better clutch listed for your Ultima Buggies. Just type in the part number at Towers website and it'll pull up the part and price for you. Heres Towers web addy. www.towerhobbies.com and Kyosho's www.kyosho.com

[popee]

I found the Engine Its 130USD without a exhaust system , Im not sure how much the exhasut systems cost, im guessing at least 30, then I need all the clutch parts. that will be at least 20USD. Then there is shipping to the UK, call that 20USD in total. All together thats around 200USD, (£150GBP) They cost around 180USD with engine. and around 220USD RTR. Whats my cheapest option? im not a speed freak, I just want a reliable engine. preferbly one thats broke in if anyone is selling second hand?

One more thing. Currently I have the Ultmia Sports Buggy but I was thinking about getting the Ultima ST Sport Truck. Is the truck weak? Does it ahve any nasty parts which will strip such as gears etc? I ahve 2 Ultima Buggys im sure a majority of the gear box parts will fit etc.

[tl_ke_racer]

i just got a kyosho nitro pro st team truck i think its older but it seems really good i can beat other racing trucks liek losis and the gt with it and i whoop on my freinds nitro rustler, im running a .12 cvx on it im gonan get a pic of it up soon.

[1/12 scaler]

I don't know if anyone found out that tower has f/r carbon shocktowers(f:$7.99,R:$9.99) and f/r carbon suspention arms(F:$9.99,R:$11.99) made by kyo. Does anyone know that if the pro version parts will be conpatible with the type-r? 169 at tower isn't bad, but if the parts arent compatible i will wait to get the pro.

Last, is it possible without dremel work to put in a nova mega .12 in the ultima or is the mega desined for on-road only?

Also what is a good o.s. engine? i was looking at the tr but i don't know if it is only for on road

Thanx

[PtCruiser2003]

Originally posted by popee
Currently I have the Ultmia Sports Buggy but I was thinking about getting the Ultima ST Sport Truck. Is the truck weak? Does it ahve any nasty parts which will strip such as gears etc?

I have the st sports and the gear box keeps stripping out. i hope switching over to the type R gearbox will help because they discontinued the sports so they could start making the pros.

[ronin8451]

You have to change the crank on the NovaMega to a standard crank (use a MT-12 crank), since it uses the same style clutch set-up as a GT ( that's what I have on my Type R).
Best 2 upgrades is the Trinity aluminum rear arm mounts and the Kyosho optinal alum. front nose chassis plate.

[lowbugit]

Hey guys, I am currently running a losi gas truck and it has been a good truck but I am interested in trying something different. I am wondering because Kyosho isnt really plain in there description is the type R gas truck their top level with all the team parts in the kit. It seems as if it is similar to the GT which appeals to me. I know that factory guys race this truck but in what version. They dont seem to really explain which kit comes with all the goodies to be race ready and competitive right out of the box. Also any opinions on this truck and especially the transmission would be helpful. Thank you, Kevin.

[mr_bonkers]

hi :)

Whats the difference between the Ultima ST Racing Sports and Type R? And is the Ultima RB RS the same as the ST RS but with buggy front wheels and body?

According to this review (pdf) (http://www.ripmax.com/Images/PDF_Files/RacerUltimaJan02.pdf) the Ultima RB rs is unsuitable for rough terrain!! whats that about?

Would an Ultima RB rs be a good 1st nitro car or would the ST (or ST type R) be better?

Thanks :)

[BlankName]

Well, I have a Kyosho GP Ultima ST Sports, and it runs great! This thing is solid, too. The chassis is rugged, and the engine is a good contender. I am purchasing a lightened flywheel and a new 3 plate clutch. Among other hop-ups I plan on installing a nice new pair of shocks and a complete bearing set. The stock shocks are good, but I want a nice new pair, and you can't live without bearings! Ok, well, there's my input. Peaz-out.

[Regan LeBlanc]

Kyosho will be showing their latest upgrades for the truck at Chicago show. It will be a new kit with all the hop-ups and specs the team has been working on this last year.

The team has had a couple wins this year, and is looking much more competitive against the GT and Losi.

Breakage issues have been dealt with, and other improvemnts should mean the truck is right there with the competition.

Kyosho has commited to making it as race ready as the Inferno.

[ronin8451]

I was hoping you would chime in Raygun! How's the back doin after the "Coleman" incident? I got the hop-ups that you told me to get on the 'grid and my little Ultima is beginning to be my favorite truck. The handleing is in between the Losi and the GT and with the alum. arm mounts there has been no more breakage! I never found the bigger input shaft for the tranny, but it has held up fine to some pretty nasty engines so far! The best upgrade after the alum arm mounts and nose pc. has been the MP-6 drilled brake disk...fits right on and super breaking power now!!

[Regan LeBlanc]

I'm still sore! My back has been bad for years and it was nothing Paul did really, it goes out when i'm vegging on the couch too :)

Most of the parts are available now. Kyosho will have all the goodies in the kit, along with the plastic we specified for each area. Think of it as the "Factory team" Kit. It also comes with a variation of the crowd pleaser so it looks like a race truck!! and not a RTR. I will know the final specs after i get to Chicago for the show. The asked me what parts should be in the kits and i told them what the Team wanted, so it should be race ready out of the box.

It's a good truck that just needs more people running it!

[BlankName]

I agree.

I almost never see anything about the Ultima! I don't see any adds featuring availiable hop-ups for it, I don't see any "readers rides" with ultimas, in the RC Car Action. At least, not of recent memory...

Anyways, I think that the Ultima is a great truck! It's my favorite truck! But I'm still wondering if this is a thread for the Sports ro the Type R?

[popee]

1/12th scaler the O.S CV-X or CV .15 and .12 are great engines, if your racing get the .12 as your track mite not allow .15's to be raced. I have the OS .15 CV-X and its very, very fast! I dont wanna open the throttle fully becasue my diskbrake has snapped and its held together by glue :)

[ronin8451]

Popee,
Go to Tower Hobbies and order the disk brake kit for the MP-6 for $16.99. You will get 2 ventilated stainless disk brakes and metal and fiber pads for enough to do 2 trucks. This setup rocks and won't melt like the plastic one and is cheaper than the fiber disk!! There is an upgrade brake hub that it fits on, but I haven't needed it yet and I run mine on oval every week! check out this link:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXT697&P=7

[popee]

ronin will that diskbrake fit the RC10GT? The brake didnt melt I crashed and somhow when I ran over to the car it was lying on the floor in 2 pieces

[ronin8451]

Nope, it's a Kyosho only! The best brake for the GT is the Cresenzi brake hands down!! Go to www.rc10gthobby.com and check it out, Dave is a great guy.

[Regan LeBlanc]

Those mp6 discs work but they are not the best thing to use on the ultima. They are so thin they wear out the brake hub extremly fast. it's much better to use a thick 'glass disk. You'll have better braking, and it does not wear the brake hub.

NRC has some special temp stable ones that almost all of the Kyosho team is using on their trucks and buggies

[LokiOs]

OK here's the deal. What do I need to do to convert a complete tranny / diff unti from an EP to a GP? I need a complete tranny unit for a nitro sprint car, and I have a spare kyosho ultima st type r, I want to know what I need to do convert it over? Thanks for any and all help.

[offroader2]

I have a GP Ultima sports it was the first car I got (8 months ago)
I din't know anything about R/C cars and now I think the car has to improve a lot.
What do you think are the best hop ups for it?
Do you think is better I buy a new one but type RACE or hop up this old one?

in Brazil the race type costs about US $450 without engine. do you believe in it?
It is really expensive and I can't import from Tower because the taxes are about 100 pre cent over price.

[DirtRacinFool]

offroader2, I think the racer is a better way to go, but $450 US??!!! Ouch!!! Does UPS make deliveries where you are? Maybe I can help you get one for much less then the $450 it'd cost you in Brazil. PM me if your interested. :cool:

[kyoshofan420]

I just got into nitro off-road racing, and I got the GP Ultima ST Type R because I was impressed with the quality of a nitro tourer I had (GP Spider MK II World Cup). Well anyway, I was wondering if there were any weak parts in the kit that should get replaced? I think I saw some parts for the Ultima by Robinson in RCCA. How much does the diff gear, and the idler gear cost? I run a O.S. Hyper CV-X .15 in it and it rips! I will appreciate any help. :)

[FTR]

hey guys,

i can honestly say i was not a believer until i drove my friends type r. now my gt feels choppy and not as smooth as his ultima so does this ound good?


LXPT56 Kyosho GP Ultima ST Type R
Accessories Needed Combo Available
1 169.99
LXUN90 Kyosho 3mm Hard Chassis GP Ultima

1 24.99
LXUD47 Robinson Racing Aluminum Diff Gear Ultima EP/GP

1 16.19
LXUD49 Robinson Racing Slipper Kit Blue Ultima EP/GP

1 31.99
LXUW88 Trinity Aluminum Upper Transmission Brace Ultima St

1 28.99
LXUW89 Trinity Aluminum Rear A Arm Mount Ultima ST

1 26.29
LXUW90 Trinity Aluminum Rear Hub Carrier Ultima ST

1 28.99
LXAX13 MIP 4-N-1 Clutch RC10GT

1 10.99
LXUJ73 O.S. .12 CV-R 10C Slide On-Road Carb
Accessories Needed
1 121.99
LXAX62 MIP Light Flywheel RC10GT

1 10.99
LXBGG8 Trinity Touring Car Side Exhaust Manifold

1 26.29
LXWS35 Trinity 1/10 Touring Pipe Short Hi

1 34.99
LXCB26 O.S. #A3 Glow Plug
Qty Discount Available
2 3.99
LXAX77 MIP Boost Bottle Kit

1 25.99

[Scrad]

The gears aren't really neccessary to get as is the boost bottle and the clutch stuff, but the clutch stuff would be nice. The Trinity stuff is a must. The pipe and header work pretty good for being a kit combo, but they look kinda cheesy.

[ronin8451]

Invest in the hard front chassis plate, tranny brace, thick chassis, rear arm mounts, and some titanium turnbuckles. I have had a few different powerful engines in mine and have yet to tear up the tranny.

[kyoshofan420]

Thanks for the info! Those upgrades will definitely bulletproof the truck once I save up for them. I will try to post pics of my truck as soon as I figure how to. :)

[LokiOs]

Has anybody heard anymore about this truck? I am going to be buying my first Nitro truck here in the next couple of weeks, and I would really like to hold out for this one, if it is going to be coming out soon? If not I'm going to have to settle for the older model with some upgrades.

[DirtRacinFool]

The updated version should hit the market by November. Most new models will be out just before the Christmas shopping season.

[LokiOs]

How sure are you in that release date? I cannot find any information on that hit except for the posting right here from the hobby show? (I am just anxious to get a new truck, but I really want the evolution). THANKS

[Scrad]

Jerry, if you find the updated version out anywhere let me know. I might have to sell my Losi, and get another Ultima. Because I want to be different and I miss my Ultima.

[R/C_Newbie19]

Hi! i wonder if it should be possible to mount a .21 os max engine with rear exhaust and no pull start in the ultima?
/// R/C_Newbie19

[kyoshofan420]

Another question:confused:

I was wondering if any of the Progressive Suspension Shock Cap Resevoirs would fit a Ultima ST Type R's shock body? I will appreciate any help. Thanks.:)

[Regan LeBlanc]

No release date has been set as of yet.

You could put a .21 in there (anything is possible) but it would involve major machining and modification...only to make the truck 1000 percent worse.

No the Piggyback caps will not thread on to Kyosho shocks.

[LokiOs]

I am getting a little itchy about the EVOLUTUION! Tower has just lowered the price on the original Ultima GP typr R to $149 (it can get even lower then that if you start adding in there coupons and stuff! I want to wait, but I also want to BE SURE the evolution IS indeed coming out soon!

[TUCRACEMAN]

Hey, I'm getting itchy too!

[Tstalion79]

Hey guys. All I know is that I am getting one for x-mas, provided that they are out by then. Im dropping either an orion wasp, a rossi pixi black, or a sirio engine.

[LokiOs]

The tower "Just Announced" page has been updated with listing from Kyosho, and there is NO Evolution to be seen? I'm worried!

[arsonist678]

im lookin into getting a nitro truck
and im wonder when the new trucks gonna come out

[VelR3]

Does the non-RTR version comes with everything neccesary to install the engine of your choice?Anybody knows? Thank you in advance:confused:

[mercenario27]

I need alittle help from you guys.

I bought a Ultima GP Sport for my Nephew last summer. He trashed the motor in about a month. He broke a few things and bent the chassis. I think he learned his lesson. 6 months with a broken car. We got him a new chasiss, but it was the Type R chasiss. Not everything matches up. what do I need to convert it to the Type R.

I am willing to buy used stock parts if anyone has them.
plus I have penty of other stuff for trade

mercenario27@hotmail.com

[Tl01drifter]

Hey can any one give me some pluses on this truck i am thinking about buying one and not sure if it any good:confused:

[Jmorgan]

Yo,


I just ordered mine this morning with a futaba magnum remote and a .12 cv-x (s) os engine..


will it be awsome or wat?


Jacob

[Tl01drifter]

no one talks here. well thanks for making my dession easyer. i am not going to get it

[Scrad]

Drifter, I had an Ultima and it was a very good truck. I however switched to a Losi and I like that truck too. But if you want help on your setup and stuff get a Losi, because there isn't too many people that have the Ultima to help you out.

[mercenario27]

could someone post so detail pics of their type r.
I need some because I converting my nephews sport into the type r

[samaj]

I have a O.S 15 CV n my ST Type R. When i nail the throttle the truck does round donut. I can't get any traction. My track has a lot of loose dust on top. I run proline std tyres that came with the kit. What should i do to get more traction....?

Its amazingly fast & great torque. But no control........


Please help

[Regan LeBlanc]

For those of you wanting the "evolution" truck start calling GP and bug them. The team should have the new trucks very soon. And GP is the one you need to get on if you want the "latest"

Tires make the biggest difference in traction, find what others are using to hook up. Kit tires are hard and don't provide much grip. There are other things you can do but tires are number 1.

[ode]

For those of you who are considering to buy this truck: don´t.

I had one this summer and I spent more time with on my table at home undergoing service or reconstruction then driving it. There were always something coming of due to vibrations or braekage of some strange part. I spend equal amount on spare parts and hop-ups as I spend buying it.

And although I tried several tuning options I could never get it to perform really well. I haven´t driven any other truck so there might be better ones out there but I´m trading to a Inferno.

(Considering tuning: there are just not tuning options enought to make it work all right, the slipper clutch for example: there is NO WAY that it is possible to adjust the slip in the same way as seems to be the way on for example Losi trucks with out major rebuilt)

A buddy of mine has one and he hasn´t touched a thing since he built it. OK it can probably perform better if he had. But for me it´s only good that he don´t know anything about wrenching- I will open a big can of "whop-ass" when I come with my perctly tuned Inferno..:D :D :D

But to those of you who drive it anyway: good luck, I give up. Just too much work

[Regan LeBlanc]

ODE sorry you had some bad luck with the first generation Ultima trucks.

I just spent the last year and a half developing the "evolution model" with the Kyosho team, and you tell people not to buy it even though you have never ran the new model? If you want to tell people to not get the old one thats fine, but speaking with no experience about a model not here yet makes you look a bit out of the loop.
It is as adjustable as any truck available. It is now more durable than some other major truck kits, and close to GT standards in that department. The performance is there. Kortz and Degani have won with the truck at major events.

The "evolution model" Ultima is way better than before, my word on that.

[mercenario27]

what is the difference between the Type R and the evolution model. post some pictures

[Regan LeBlanc]

Pond did a write up and pictures after chicago show, those should still be around here someplace.

[schnitzer]

hi all,

I am considering a ultima ST but I need to know if a CVR pilot shaft will be able to fit? if not, what mod can I do to make it fit?

Cheers

[Scrad]

The Ultima takes a short shaft, so you maybe able to cut a pilot shaft and make it fit. I'm not sure though. Your better off getting a short shaft.

[Custom]

Hi, everybody. I bought my Type-R about 3 months ago and it has been a great truck. I have the RRP tranny gears, kyosho aluminum suspension arm holders, trinity hubs, graphite front plate, custom milled 7075 T-8 aluminum(from a Boeing) rear bulkhead, front&rear shock towers(1/4'). Power is Sirio sp12trp. CVEC tuned pipe. Jr XR2. Team Losi tires.
When is the evolution coming out? Anyway here's a picture of my truck.ultima

[Custom]

My picture didn't come up. i think I did everything right. Any help?

[Jmorgan]

http://clanafh.realityslap.com/car1.jpg
http://clanafh.realityslap.com/car2.jpg
http://clanafh.realityslap.com/car3.jpg
http://clanafh.realityslap.com/car4.jpg
http://clanafh.realityslap.com/car5.jpg
http://clanafh.realityslap.com/car6.jpg
http://clanafh.realityslap.com/Ultima1.jpg
http://clanafh.realityslap.com/Top.jpg
http://clanafh.realityslap.com/Bad1.jpg
http://clanafh.realityslap.com/Carb-1.jpg
http://clanafh.realityslap.com/Side-1.jpg


Theres mine.. As for yours not working.. umm not sure the link that the pic is to isn't even a .jpg.. when you do a photo it should end with .jpg..


About the engine.. I bought a .12-cvx(s) engine.. it wa slike 109 but I think its around 103 now.. I'd suggest getting the short engine over the long cause otherwise you will have to mod it.

I love mine.. only prob I keep breaking top gear shafts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Tower is sending a free replacement tho.. I must just be overtightening them!

[welshgsx750]

i bought a ultima st gp sports and within 2 days i have had to buy 2 clutch bells, clutch shoes, and now the chassis has bent ater driving it off road on the local bmx track is this normal for a off road car hope i can get my money back

[Jmorgan]

Mine has been fine, could it be possible installing it wrong?

[Regan LeBlanc]

BMX tracks will tear up an R/c. Huge jumps and hard surfaces will do that to any R/C. Even 1/8th scale will not survive BMX tracks unless your a skilled driver looking out for his car.

Clutchbell and clutch sounds like user error. If the mesh is not correct you will always be replacing gears.

Get your money back!???? hahahaha after bashing it to bits..... no.


On another note i just got my Evolution Ultima Friday. I should have it together in a week or so. GP should be able to get them anytime now. Looks good with all the hop-ups and beefed up parts in the box. And a crowd pleaser body too. Night and day differences between the Evolution and the older kit. :D

[Jmorgan]

Thats awsome man, how much was the kit?


I agree the mesh had to be mesed up to go thru clutches like that and as for a weak chassis, I thought mght was pretty tuff but then again I don't test my RC chassis by running them into steel poles at 10mph or watever to see if they will bend or not;x

[mercenario27]

I would have to agree with Regan LeBlanc BMX Tracks are murder on Stadium Trucks. I destroyed my First nitro car, a Duratrax ST on a BMX Track.

[ode]

I own a stadium truck and driving it at little rougher ground proved to generate some problems. When driving it on gravel, small rocks and stones got into the inside of the rim and broke the “fins” that the inside of the rim consists of. Another common problem was that small rocks got stuck between the rim and wishbone, which results in a dead stop and no possibility to continue before the stone was removed.
How to solve this? First thing to do is to remove material from the original rims (Figure 1) so there only is left what is in line with the drive nut (Figure 2). Tire not drawn in figures.

Now we remove the drive nut (I don’t know the exact word for this nut but it transfer the power from the drive shaft to the wheel) and the pin that it is pressed on to.
Now take a piece of scrap lexan or any other thin hard plastic sheet. Cut out a circle that fit into the rim and drill a hole in the middle where the drive shaft will fit. Now place the disc you just made on the drive shaft and then replace the pin and drive nut (Figure 3). And finally replace the wheel (Figure 4).
Now you have protected the inside of your rim from stones and other nasty things. When driving in extremely soft conditions like dry, soft sand it will also protect from dirt piling up inside the rim and make it heavier, which otherwise can be the case. I haven’t had any problems what so ever since I made this change.

[ode]

pic2

[ode]

pic3

[ode]

pic 4

[Jmorgan]

thats a pretty cool idea man, can ya get some real life pics?

[LokiOs]

I just got the GP, bought it used on Ebay, and the top shaft was broken, right at the threads. i also bought the EO versiona while back, and it came with the same problem. I have never had a problem with this on MY personal truck, but is it a common problem? I'm ordering another top shaft (I wish I could get a beefier one), and I was wondering if I have to worry about that happening again?
Also, what other parts are suseptab;e to breaking or wearing out quickly on the GP? I have already got the Gold "team" chassi, and the Aluminum hop up kit from JT racing (aluminum shock towers, and aluminum braces), I also already have installed the rear arm mounts, and am getting the gold front chassis. I was concerned about the breaks, I have heard that there may be a part that melts? Any info would be appreciated.

[rhcsavage21]

is it true. was the type r discontinued?????

[MrCrash]

Nope.It just traveled to a far away land where it can live peacefully with a golf club named Ernie.

Actually,yes it was.Check Tower if you don't believe me.

[jonski]

Check out my "new" Kyosho EP Ultima Type R for sale....has some aluminum hop ups too..

Thanks,
Jon

[cucan]

ive got one type r also and in the begining i broke some parts but since replacing the broken parts with the normal replacements and hardcore driving havent had problems afterwards.do you know if there is a way of installing a 2 speed to it and which spur and clutch bell do i need from associated or does the asso spur fit the original clutch bell??

[Motorman007]

has anyone ran there EVO yet? so far i really like the Truck.
it has crazy steering.

well if anyone has any input please post a way.

thanx

Motor

[Nitrogt10]

Do the rims for the Kyosho Ultima ST GP fit on the RC10GT RTR?
thanks

[Motorman007]

yes they will fit and i was told that losi rims will too.

[Jmorgan]

are the diff parts, on the older ultima and the evolution interchangable?

I need the thrus balls, and plates.. for the ultima... can i just order them off the parts list for the evo from towerhobbies?

[Motorman007]

i believe so..

[phuzaxeman]

Hey everyone. New to this forum. I'm a big fan of all the ultima models. I currently own the original ultima, rb type r, and project type r gp buggy (custom). Although it's far from being done, please visit the ultima website. Please sign the the guestbook and let me know which is our favorite Ultima in the forum.

http://phuzaxeman777.tripod.com/kyoshoulltimateultimawebsite.htm

I made this site to help promote these great r/c vehicles.

Thanks,

ken

[MBX4RR]

check out my ultima, www.msnusers.com/gascars, just click on pictures on the left

[badtodabone]

how come I never see these at races and in magazines?

[MBX4RR]

because while this car is better then most the Rc10Gt has been out longer and is just as good and XXX-NT is just a better car. I own a ultima,a RC10Gt's, a XXX-Nt, a NXT, and a Mugen MBX4RR so my opinion isnt to slanted. Kyosho also puts more of there emphasis of advertisments and sponsored drivers on 1/8 scale buggies not 1/10 trucks. Hope i helped :)

[wyd]

has anyone ran there EVO yet? so far i really like the Truck.
it has crazy steering.

well if anyone has any input please post a way.

thanx

MotorHow has the new EVO truck been working for you. I use to have one of the original Pro models when it cam out and it was pretty nice. The new EVO looks like a nice improvment over the standard Pro model. I found a really nice looking one and might buy it.

[rc411]

Well if you guys could tell me who actually makes Ultima hop ups... that would make my racing a whole lot easier. I have been thinking about going XTM by getting the X-Cell Rolling chassis and strapping in a FR12 and going from there. :rolleyes:

[rc411]

ok who knows how you can get a slide carb engine to work on the truck? I have no idea how to setup linkages or where to get them.

[MBX4RR]

i not sure how but try asking in the nitro forum, if you already have not done so. This forum is dead :( but check out my old kyosho ultima's chassis that i fixed up http://www.msnusers.com/gascars/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=34

[ta03 tuner]

Is this thread really dead? I just go a NIB Ultima ST type R GP today...Any one still have theirs?...Keep Kyosho alive!

[rc411]

I drive mine and race it regularly. It is fun to beat the top dogs with it, this forum shouldn't be dead lol

[ta03 tuner]

I don't have an engine selected yet for my new type R...I was thinking about getting the HPI T-15 because it was cheap and I've heard good things about it...I'm not into racing yet so I need something dependable...is this a good engine to start out with? Also, does ultima take standard or short crank?

[Scrad]

Is requires a short crank. I'd suggest getting the standard O.S. CV motor. Or the cv-r.

[ta03 tuner]

Hmmm....OS .12 CVR is pretty expensive (120)...has anyone had good luck with Megatech M-16? I saw a new one on ebay for only 65 bucks... Remember now, I'm just planning on tearing it up outside...no racing until next summer and I figure if I race, I'll go check out what everyone is using at the track before I buy a high end engine. I"m guessing that the truck will be too slow with .12CV standard. My two cousins have a nitro evader and a RC10GT and my bro has a Nitro Rush EVO....I kinda want to be in the same ball park for the least amount of bling because their trucks all fly..

[Scrad]

We had a few peoplw with come in with problems with that Megatech motor. The plain CV will be plenty fast. I had one on my Ultima, before I sold it.

[ta03 tuner]

Hey Scrad...I really like O.S. engines but couldn't pass up a deal as good as a Megatech 1.6Q for under 70 bucks....If the engine sucks, I'll buy a new one....besides, to rebuild a O.S. engine cost almost as much as this Megatech. Yeah I know they got horrible customer service but the price is just too good...and lots of people do get lucky and receive a solid, built Megatech engine...my fingers are crossed...

[KyoshoKev]

hello fellas, my mate has a Kyosho GP (i'm not familiar with it myself) He said he has a gx15 engine. it has 3 screws on the bottom. what does he need to do to change a new engine. part numbers would be appreciated.

i assume

1. engine mount and engine plate
2. manifold
3. flywheel, clutch shoe, spring and clutch bell

thanks

[rc411]

Assuming that the GX is a standard shaft... you'll need http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU171&P=7 (previous members says that this mount does indeed fit.

[KyoshoKev]

so thats the mount he needs if he changes to like an rb engine? thx

[rc411]

or so they say, basically thats it. I hate how they have it setup though compared to the type r or ultima... u have to upgrade everything! (if u want more strength)

[ta03 tuner]

any of you guys know if a RC10GT clutch bell will fit right on without mods? Seems the TYPE R only has one available :confused: ...let me know okay..

[ta03 tuner]

Man...having bad luck...Bought the Megatech M-16 but now my Trinity rear brace won't fit...also, I still don't know if a RC10GT clutch bell will fit my Ultima with M-16 engine...anyone have experience with this motor and how to fit it on to an Ultima Type R? Let me know okay...

[Kyosho Fan]

Hi All, looks like with the out-phasing of the Ultima ST Type R there is not much going on here anymore. I fetched one of the probably also soon gone ST Type R Evolution and can honestly say buidling the kit was a pleasure.

I do own a Ultima ST Tpye R EP already and now the Ultima ST Type R Evolution GP. I have chosen the OS 18 CVRX, as it quite cheap lately and offers plenty of performance. It's bit tricky to get all things going, as the blue "support bar" going through the engine from the diff housing to the deck needs some trimming. The Evolution is just done and it will loose it's virginity tomorrow when I drive RC with some friends.

Hope not alle Ultimas are dead yet ?

PS: can you guys share some pics how you managed to get a decent flywheel looking out of the chassis without the need to cut it for use with a starter box ? Thanks. (preferably with a .15 or 18. engine)

My two suggars :D !
http://hometown.aol.de/ASchild/ultimas.jpg

The OS 18 CV-RX.
http://hometown.aol.de/ASchild/ultima_fertig_1.jpg

CU around, Andreas

[vulso]

Any one still running this truck? I have a brand new Ultima ST Type R Evo with an OS12cvr I plan on running. Any tips or issues?

DFS

[brelandt]

I just bought the "Sport" version yesterday from Towerhobbies it was their last one so it was $150. Very cheap. Don't know anything about them.
I have a set of bearing for it and was looking for any information about taking the pull start off and replacing it with a rotor start. Is there one for the GX-15? I don't want a starter box cause it will cost almost as much as the buggy and I already have one on my PICCO .26.
Also, everything is discontinued for this car it seems. Is anyone still selling parts for this thing? Like threaded link rods and pipes?
Thanks!