TA04 Forum

[CarterTG]

Recently returned from a Hong Kong trip where I took the opportunity to pick up some additional TA04 goodies in their hobby district. On average, parts pricing is about a THIRD off of Tower's listed prices. I was able to casually browse through the area over several days. There must be at least TEN shops within a 3 block radius that catered to RC cars in that area. I'm sure naitive hobbyists could probably dig up 10 more of the same. Shops that specialized in planes, helis, & boats weren't as tightly located.

The initial four upgrades along with the recent goodies now include:

53456 Turnbuckle Upper Arms
53457 Turnbuckle Tie Rods
53458 Racing Hub Carriers
53426 Racing Body Posts
53460 Carbon Front Damper Stay
53461 Carbon Rear Damper Stay
53478 Aluminum Steering Set
53452 Aluminum Spur Hub
53462 Aluminum Diff Pulley
49120 Aluminum Hex Hubs
53527 Titanium 3x32 Turnbuckles
53422 44t & 45T 0.4 pinions


Several shops in the area were amazing about the completeness of their parts selection. Blue upgrade parts were available, but I decided to avoid that bandwagon and stick with a carbon & silver aluminum scheme throughout the chassis. Some of those upgrades might not get installed til I get some more practice time behind the wheel.

As nicely priced as the upgrades were, I just couldn't get myself to buy certain things... the aluminum posts for the steering servo, for example. I'm not convinced it has any weight savings to offset any miniscule stiffness it may have over the stock plastic posts. So far, the upgrades have all cost around $125usd, but you won't hear me harping that tired "I coulda bought a TRF414MII" tune. The process of upgrading this car at my own pace is what it's all about for me.

Had I planned ahead, I would've carried a list of the stock screws in the TA04 that could've been replaced by Tamiya titanium screws. Two GPM (http://www.gpmracing.com.hk/front/front.html) shops were also nearby and they carry all sorts of equivalent titanium screws, but I'm not sure about eligibility in TCS races in that regard.

I missed the Tamiya Asia Cup while I was there. Probably would've been a good show. Maybe next year...

[GTpanda]

I'd like to exchange most of the screws on my car, but it's a "TA04R-like" (was born asa PRO, hopped up to "R" status), and I don't have my model here...

can some good soul please post the screw list of an "R"? or maybe scan the instructions, so I can count them by myself...

on tamyiausa's site I only found an exploded view without dimensions, and an incomplete parts list :(

thanks!! :)

P.S. if you have the scanned version but cannot post, you may email me at gtpanda_email@yahoo.com - that would be extremely kind of you! :)

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by GTpanda
on tamyiausa's site I only found an exploded view without dimensions, and an incomplete parts list

Cross-referencing the 58261 TA04Pro's exploded diagram (http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58261e.pdf) against the parts sheet (http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58261.pdf) is by no means incomplete. Print both sheets and count again. It's all there.

In addition, vaguely indicating that you've hopped up to "R" status doesn't tell anyone whether that includes the carbon tub chassis.

Even without an exploded diagram, the TA04R's parts list (http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58276.pdf) shows plenty of info on what screws have been used.

[GTpanda]

I'm sorry you took it so bad, didn't mean to bash anybody or anything...

I've gone through the exploded view (http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58282e.pdf) of the TA04R and the parts list you linked, but it appears to me that many screws are "hidden" in the "metal parts bag" items, I can only find the data about 9 of the used screw types...

that's what I call "incomplete", but I'll admit that I've been vague too... I bought a PRO, then the carbon tub chassis, and then a lot of other hop ups

the best thing would be to count the screws on the actual model, or post the complete list of hop-ups, or cross-check all the instruction sheets from all hop-ups, but this will be impossible for me for some time... I'd like to find the a screw bag in my post when I get back home, that's what the internet is so good for, imo

come on CarterTG, take it easy!

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by GTpanda
I'm sorry you took it so bad, ....take it easy!

Dude, for the record, I didn't type my response with any hint of an angry tone.

Originally posted by GTpanda
..it appears to me that many screws are "hidden" in the "metal parts bag" items...

As far as the original 58261 is concerned, they listed the THREE metal parts bags and then provided some sixty-odd listings of components (screws, grubs, nuts, bearings) contained in those three bags.

Now that I re-checked the TA04R's listing (http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58276.pdf) (HKS), the same holds true.

Bottom line is that you were initially asking about every screw in a TA04R and that's exactly what's there... the entries that mention "screw", size in mm, and quantity. I dunno how much more complete it can get based on the info you provided.

p.s. Don't read this post with your angry voice and it won't sound angry.


:D

[dolemite]

hey time is almost here what you guys think 414 or tb evo III i dont have to worry about tcs since it necer comes here any opininons count right now im leaning toward the evo III:D

[funkyboogalooo]

guys I just bought a TA04 Mercedes CLK off Ebay. It comes with all radio gear battery charger etc. Its been used three times (not raced ) and cost me £90.00 (around $70.00) is that good value do you think?

Mike

[jackhammer74]

Hey! boogaloo is that the new CLK 04R? If so then yeah you got an excellent deal my friend.
Hey! Dolemite I would get the 414M2, It's a proven chassis, plus parts are starting to become more readily available. However I did
hear, that Surikarn has been spotted racing the EVO III, and that it's fast as H E L L !!
As always though it's going to debut in the U.S. for astronomical dough, and parts are going to be hard to get for a while.
Think about it, good luck with your decision.

[dolemite]

i hear you man!!!!:D

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by funkyboogalooo
guys I just bought a TA04 Mercedes CLK off Ebay. It comes with all radio gear battery charger etc.

Even if it's the #58279 CLK DTM2000 (TA04S), that's a helluva deal.
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58279original/original_top.jpghttp://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58274ta04s/ta04s.jpg (http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58279original/original.htm)

The stock caster angle in the TA04S is 10°. Upgrade to the #53458 Racing Hub Carrier Set and not only will that provide a 6° caster angle for more aggressive steering, but it introduces a pair of torque rods similar to the geometry found on the TRF414 cars.

Having the extra linkages up front makes it sturdier and less likely to pop a ball-cup in a crash. I've done plenty of that a the last practice track and the front end survived every time. Of all the upgrades I've done to my TA04 Pro recently, #53458 is the one that provided the most noticeable bang-for-the-buck.

The next important upgrade in a TA04S's future would be replacing the stock bevel-gear differential with a rebuildable Ball Diff -- #53436, not just for it's smoother action but controlling the slip should make a noticeable difference in handling. A related upgrade would be installing a One-Way Diff (#53411) in front. Thankfully, access to both front and rear diffs are a cinch to get at.

Tamiya.nl's site has a great page (http://www.tamiya.nl/tamoptions/tam_53000_ta04.html) showing most of the "04" upgrades.

Check the rear outdrive half-axle cups and make sure there are rubber spacers (MA23) in place (as per assembly instructions (http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58274b.pdf))

I overlooked reinstalling one during maintenance and that resulted in a rear dogbone slipping out at the track and mangling the rear suspension arm and hinge pin. That gave me an excuse to upgrade to the new #53427 Carbon Reinforced Hard Suspension Arms all around. They're just a tiny hair lighter than the stock plastic arms, but are noticeably stiffer. If it weren't for the forgetful boneheaded mistake on my part, I'd never really get a chance to wrench on the car aside from an occasional upgrade. The TA04 has remained that reliably tough.

Congrats again on scoring the eBay deal.

[Cychalen]

Originally posted by funkyboogalooo
guys I just bought a TA04 Mercedes CLK off Ebay. It comes with all radio gear battery charger etc. Its been used three times (not raced ) and cost me £90.00 (around $70.00) is that good value do you think?

Mike
£90.00 is approximately US$140.

[funkyboogalooo]

DOH, your right.

[Nofri]

Very soon and I gonna buy a TA04, its gonna be the "S" version (has more to upgrade and to setup with)

Readed some threads that the TA04S has ballbearings and upper turnbuckles, and readed some threads that the TA04S DON't have.

Does the TA04S has ballbearings and upper turnbuckle right out of the box?? :confused:

Does somebody know a good and cheap shop near The Netherlands that sells Tamiya Kits and Hop Ups? (I do know Roehrmann Modelbau)

[CarterTG]

Tower Hobbies lists the Tamiya Calsonic Skyline (TA04S) having 21 ball bearings.

The TA04 Pro has 23 or 25, but I think the extras are located in the fancier differentials.

Tamiya.com's own webpage (http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58274ta04s/ta04s.htm) indicates that the TA04S includes turnbuckles.
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58274ta04s/ta04s_2.jpg

Even if they weren't included, turnbuckles are about $6usd a set and includes a handy wrench. (#53456 & #53457)

[Nofri]

Thanks for the confirmation, i thought there where maybe 2 versions of the TA04S (wit/without bearings) because severe peoples said there where, and some there wheren't.

[CarterTG]

If you discover that the website was wrong and the TA04S doesn't come with turnbuckles, instead of getting #53456 and #53457, consider getting the TITANIUM turnbuckle shafts instead.

#53456 and #53457 are heavier steel shafts.

The TA04's front upper arms use 3x16mm shafts, rear upper arms use 3x23mm.

The steering tie-rod shafts are 3x23mm.


Tamiya offers:
53525 3x18mm Titanium Turnbucle Shafts
53526 3x23mm Titanium Turnbucle Shafts

If you pick up the #53458 Racing Hub Carriers, get the #53527 3x32mm shafts as well.

[Nofri]

:cool:

Woewhaa! Thanks for the tip! :cool:

[twinturboz24]

I have a TA04R (HKS Altezza) and I LOVE that car! I is so smooth:D My friend has a Pro 3 and My car handles much better than his (he won't admit to that) but, I also have that awesome carbon fiber upper deck that comes with the kit to help strengthen the chassis. Anyways, I just got on this forum and it's great to see so many Tamiya loverz here. Rock on Tamiya!:)

[dolemite]

word up:)

[Cychalen]

Is it possible to convert a TA04-R to TA04-SS wheel base by getting the modified arms ITEM 50942 TA04-SS D Parts (Suspension Arm)? Do I need something else?
This is from Tamiya's homepage and it seems like it.
The TA04-SS chassis has been developed from the TA04-S chassis and features a shortened wheel base with specially designed suspension arms. Leaving the main frame as is, front/rear suspension arms have been modified to realize a 10mm shorter wheel base than the TA04-S chassis.

[J-racer]

Nope, you don't need anything else, just 50942 and a short wheelbase top (Toyota MR-S, get the lightweight version! :) )

[Cychalen]

Thanks for the good news. :D
What is this lightweight version of the Toyota MR-S. I know that there is one clear and one carbon.
I am getting this body. TT-R DTM 2002 (http://www.tamiya.com/japan/show0210/photo/nm_rc5.jpg)

[Cychalen]

I don't know what final ratio I'm running (sir...I read the manual a hundred times!! It did not give me any info about gear ratios!!)
Maybe everyone knows this by now, but I will post it for reference.
TA04-S.
Gear Ratio: 7.08:1 (kit standard).
Spur gear 83T,
Pinion gear 24T or 25T.
Internal drive ratio = 7.08/83*24 = 2.047.

[redneck]

last week i eat my gear diff way to much traction and torqe but that was ok i had already ordered about $500 in tamiya parts for my tao4 and minis including the ball diffs got my parts the yesterday most of my order came in but the diffs on back order
the part of all of them i needed was i bumed now this race day i only get to run my mo4l its ball diff and other hop ups did make it
my tao4 is going to be wild when i get the diffs it will have 90 % of all the tamiya hop ups on it

if my wife finds this bill she will probably kill me but its all in the line of racing duty

[TXT Crazy]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=106932

http://www.expage.com/tamiyaman

[dolemite]

500.00 damm :eek:

[redneck]

I WENT OVER BOARD BUT I WANT TO GET THE CARS READY FOR THE 2003 TCS SERIES THAT WAS JUST A START I STILL HAVE
4 - mo3 MINI COPPERS AND 1 TLO1 to do up that means
5 - sets trf aluminuim shocks
3 more ball diffs
5 stabilizer sets
5 sets aluminum stering blocks
5 sets suspension pins
5 new bodies
5 sets Carbon shafts
way to many sets tires, wheels and inserts
im sure more parts will be added later
but im sure the next bill will be higher yet

totaly addicted

[jackhammer74]

Hey Redneck, that's a whole racing team your financing, what do you need so many cars for??

[dolemite]

really richie rich$$:D

[redneck]

ME AND MY 3 OLDER KIDS RACE THEM AND DEFFINITLY NOT RICH

[Cychalen]

How many people here are rich? I don't think there are many. In my case, I spend less in other things so I can spend more in this hobby.

[dolemite]

ok ,back to rc anybody remenbers a tamiya aftermarket company name gtp california about 2 1/2 i bought aluminum parts from them for my ta03 then i got off the hobby and now they are gone ,anybody:confused:

[redneck]

my rc cars are my one bad habit i dont go out partying or drinking
i work go home and go racing i dont spend money on things like stereos or expensive clothes (like nike and others)thats why i can spend a little more on my cars

[redneck]

that 500 i mentioned earlyer was canadian dollars that works out to be around 250 to 300 dollars us which doesnt sound so impresive does it

[tonylukes]

Can someone suggest a good gear ratio for messing around with a 15turn double? Im going to switch to regular 48 pitch spurs so I figure why not get a good ratio while Im at it. thanks.

tonylukes

[maX energ]

hey....im new to this thread!, i got my TA-04R from my hobby shop for $225..its the HKS altezza. I love this car....i love it more then my HPI NRS4 2 thats VERY hopped up and hits 65 mph...anywho...im new to adjusting ball diffs...i have little brakes...should i tightin' or losen? they dont spin very freely but the spin...
i run:
Trinity P-94 12X2 monster wire series
Duratrax Streak ESC
Duratrax sanyo 1900src batts.
HPI X-pattern pro compound radials
HPI chrome 5-spoke racing wheels
everything it factory stock...
i run the 120T gearing? is that too high or low?
i hold competitions in my local parking lot (foodtown) lol
send some advice!

[TXT Crazy]

I take it you run on a track with long strat aways and not too tight turns, right? If its that track and that motot it MAY be ok. And as for the Ball Diff I dont have on myself but i would say loosen but i dont know.:confused: And i woul dsuggest some 2400 batts. The tires are good but when you ware those down try someof these.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGJ44&P=7

[dolemite]

hey you guys is tamiya tires slightly bigger then hpi or the other companies :confused:

[TXT Crazy]

No I have a set of those and HPI X type there is no size difference.

[jackhammer74]

If you want awesome tires for little money, look no further than Yokomo slicks, they're about $7 a pair, and stick like glue.
As far as the ball diff, adjust it so that when you hold the outdrives still, the pulley won't slip. get it there for starters, then you can't experiment with different ball diff settings.
By the way I'm not familiar with the Duratrax streak but is that rated to support 12 turn motors?, find out you don't want to blow your esc already.

[Cychalen]

I have Tamiya's Super Modified Motor 11T running 128T spur gear and 34T pinion gear. The motor gets quite hot but it is holding.

I have a few Tamiya and HPI (26mm standard ) tires and they are the about the same size when you put them side by side. I think some of them look bigger because of the different patterns. Slick tires look smaller to me. :confused:

[maX energ]

yea the streak holds 12 turns..forward and brake, one button set-up, and no solder wires, i also use trinity golden no solder leads..as for now im using my Trinity GT-2...anybody hear of this haha its pretty old...i think its a 13x2 but i cant tell its so old and you cant true the comm. so it just gets worse and worse...as for my P-94 when should true the comm.? how and what comm lathe should i get that has most of the things i need? and probly around 100 bucks
my 46/120 setup works very well, it bolts out of the corners

thanks again,
andrew

[jackhammer74]

This is the one I have, it's cheap and it works great for my purposes. I'll be getting the diamond bit soon.
You can find it at Integy.com for $79.95

[jackhammer74]

If you want to upgrade a bit, this one is pretty good too,
also available at integy.com for $119.95.
A lot of people will tell you, get a Trinity, get a Hudy, etc, etc,
I would of too, but your talking about a serious investment for one of those. maybe someday when I grow up.

[Cychalen]

Can someone please help me find out how to attach the front and rear axels of a TA04-SS? I am trying to convert my TA04-R to a short wheel base. In other words, I would like to know which holes are used on the damper stays, length of steering arms, etc. I can't find the manual for TA04-SS on line. :(

[J-racer]

All you have to do is to replace the lower arms. Everything else stays exactly the same! It's really that simple...

[Cychalen]

I thought that I had to make changes to the setting since the arms are different. :D Thanks a lot for your help.

[redneck]

well i just installed a bunch of parts on my tao4 and caused a str on the tc3 thread ( dont ever mention another car on that thread )
i put the
ball diffs
lightweight drive cups on the diff
the hard arms and uprights
low friction belts
motor heat sink
aluminum spur hub
racing hub cariers on the front

my personal best on or track is 28 laps i want 31 laps
that is my current goal track record is 35 but man that guy is good
we will see on sunday how these mods help i can't think of any thing else besides front & rear universals i could use

[redneck]

question

when i was building the ball diffs there are two bushings in the diff would it help to put bearings in place of them ?????

[Cychalen]

The ball differentials that came with my TA04-R came with 850 ball bearings. It is a good idea to replace those bushings.

[redneck]

thanks Cychalen i will do that next week i only have 2 - 850 bearings on hand

i am runing 48 pitch gears now can any one suggest gearing for it

[redneck]

i am running a 90 tooth spur with a p2k can anyone suggest a pinion size looking for a starting point our local track only 2 qualifiers and the main not much time to try lots of gearing before mains

[MrHorspwer]

i can't think of any thing else besides front & rear universals i could use

Front universals seriously free up the front drivetrain. Turning is much smoother... no more popping the dog bone out from the drive cup (if hit just right when turning, I have popped the bone from the cup). Not a big difference in the rear, since it only moves up and down. Definatly better up front though.

[redneck]

is anyone running 48 pitch gears

[maX energ]

whats good gearing for running a P-94, ???, i only have a 46 pinion and a 112, 120, 128 spur's...my GT-2 ..(very old trinity motor), any ideas?im running the 120 now its not like buring hot but its near it

[maX energ]

ok..listen to this AMAZING deal...$150 USD for...THE VERY RARE HKS RACING R32 skyline!!!!! AHHH!!! im getting it for x-mas i scored when i asked the guy at the lhs to fix my king hauler (my baby) and i was wondering around and someone says o look at the window for the radio its under the box...i looked and i saw the magic unfold before my eyes...i saw the very rare HKS racing r32 skyline is completly NIB and there is also a Calsonic Skyline R32 that am also getting...im leaving the HKS nib and im gonna use the calsonic for a runner, not racer lol. what chassis these on? its a TA-02 i think...maybe even the TA-01. i ask this here because i saw that a few of you have these kits...i know there old...from 10/28/91! i did my tamiya homework haha any help would be appreciated! :D i cant wait.....holy-um..poo hey before i was running my favorite car, my TA-04R altezza w/ my GT-2 trinity..(old) and my friends TL-01 with a team orion 12X4 chrome tourning motor (brand new) was killing me....but not in the corners he he he i would beat him there but i was a goner in the striaghts

[TRI-TURBO]

Man thats an old car http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img439_29112002221603_1.jpg

all you need next is the HKS CLK


http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getuserimage.asp?t=n&id=img5_924200235933_1.jpg

[redneck]

i worked out a good gear for racing yesterday i ran 96/28 in 48 pitch with my foams on i was traction rolling like you would not belive i slamed the body as low as it could go had to cut at least 1/4 inch off the bottom of my skyline body to get it to sit that low but traction rolling in some corners

can any one help with suspension settings for foam tires on carpet

[jackhammer74]

If the shocks in the rear are laying down, stand 'em up a bit, this will take a little traction off. also, are you running a sway bar in the rear? if not try that, maybe even heavier springs and/or heavier shock fluid in the rear.
Try one thing at a time, and record the changes as you go.
Good luck!

[maX energ]

whats a good motor to pwer the TA-04R i have a Trinity monster wire hand built P-94 12X2 (brand new, never used), would the be good?any segestions? where i race...the street against a 12X4 motored TL-01 and maybe a rustler or cobra TL-01... any help

[maX energ]

btw, im running a 45/120 gearing, but im using my GT-2 trnity motor..its old so thats why i think its getting hot..? correct? what turn is this motor? i got it in a trade and it came along with a tekin rebel esc., oh and what is a transponder? its something to do with weight correct? and transfering it during corners right?!

[jackhammer74]

the reason your GT2 is getting hot is because it's overgeared, you need to step down to a pinion with fewer teeth, at least 2 or 3 less teeth. A transponder is a small device that you place in your car when racing, it works with the lap counting system, it reports in everytime you cross the starting line during a heat.

[twinturboz24]

Are their any companies that make a 2-speed tranny for the TAO4?

Also is there a piece to buy that covers the pinion gear? Mine is always getting sand and stuff off the pavement stuck in the gear.

[maX energ]

thanks jackhammer! im not familer with race tracks because there isnt one all that close by where i live. i race in the parking lot and stuff, i already got 3 people into R/c! hehe:D
like the pic?! haha

[MrHorspwer]

can any one help with suspension settings for foam tires on carpet

For carpet I run plaid foams up front, purple in the rear Associated white front spring, purple rear
2 hole piston & 70wt in the front shocks, 3 hole piston & 50 wt in the rear (Tamiya TRF shocks)
Tamiya blue front swaybar, red rear
1.5 deg camber front & rear
0 toe up front, 2 deg in rear
Front shocks laid down all the way, rears almost all the way stood up
5mm ride height all around

The car seems to pretty neutrel at my local track... maybe a bit of understeer, but it's so easy to drive.

If you're traction rolling, I would say first thing is to stiffien the car up and get the ride height down. The Associated springs were just about the stiffest spring my LHS had and they work well. I wouldn't go onto carpet with more than 6mm ride height. Have you trued down the foams yet? You may be getting foam roll from the tires being new. I wouldn't worry about cutting down the tires yet, it can probibly be taken car of through suspension tuning.

[maX energ]

i need some help here...i need a TA-04 carbon reinforced lower deck but my LHS doesnt carry it and mine is broken!!! , the batterey holder where those black snap pin peices, the one broke off and i need to replace the chassis cause its not holding the batt., any help would be GREATLY appericated its part number 53481...my LHS only carries hop-ups for the TA-04 so i thnk i mite get the carbon lower deck instead..i have no idea what to do as of now.

[jackhammer74]

why not use battery straps, I do, and it works like a champ.

[TXT Crazy]

Whats up with 2 sets of differnet tires jackhammer?

[jackhammer74]

Well the reason for that is, the rears are yokomo soft slicks, originally I had them all around but I was experiencing some serious understeer, I was advised to try a harder compound upfront, the only ones I had where the HPI medium x-patterns, so I threw them on and problem solved. The x-patterns are 26mm while the yokomos are 24mm, It seems to me that this hasn't caused a problem but, the x-patterns are getting worn, so I'll replace them with a medium set of yokomo slicks soon.

[TXT Crazy]

Do they work good handling wise?

[jackhammer74]

For the money, $7 a pair, yokomo tires are an awesome value, they're excellent tires, good grip, and they wear pretty good too.

[tamiyajoe]

back in june i bought a ta04-s original teile, and just to say I LOVE IT!! it is suprisingly quick with the dyna run motor, but i am replacing it with a trf414m2. it coming tomorow (saturday) or the day after but it will have to wait till monday cuz snail mail doesnt deliver on snday. :(


click here for pic (REALLY small) (http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/img/50921.jpeg)

[maX energ]

hey in that pic above...is that your antenna on the right side?! how did you make that..im guessing its lexan and also is your range and reception tweaked?...
thanks-
andrew

[TXT Crazy]

I dont see anything I see nothing but a plain ole body. What are you talking about?

[jackhammer74]

Originally posted by maX energ
hey in that pic above...is that your antenna on the right side?! how did you make that..im guessing its lexan and also is your range and reception tweaked?...
thanks-
andrew

I'm assuming you're talking about my setup, to answer your question, yes it's lexan, I cut it out of a lexan sheet I got at my LHS. I just put the antenna thru small wholes I made on the sides of it. As far as reception, I wouldn't try it if I had a AM radio, I've got a XR3 so it works pretty good at my local track. However
last september I raced at a pretty big event and the track was setup for electric and nitro, so it was quite big. I had a little bid of interference there, so I just switched to the regular setup, for that
one race.

[aussie_bloke]

IN RESPONSE TO twinturboz24:

coming from Australia, i have some news for you:
as you may not know, a nitro car has a torque curve. as the rpm changes, so does the ammount of torque. this is why we have gearboxes: to correctly match the rpm with the torque within a certain rev-range.
in an electric car however, the torque does not change, it is linear compared to the rpm, and so does not need a gearbox in it.
in response to your other question about the pinion protector, you can make one, i make one out of scrap lexan. also are you using a tub chassis? if so then stones will easier be caught in the gears causing unefficient running, and noisy, damaged gears. the purchase of the woven carbon bottom plate is the choice for most ta04 racers in Australia, as they dont get stones caught in the gears as easily, and is much more stiffer
just thought i'd let you know and i hope i have been some help to you

cheers,
brent

[jbrians]

Newbie here from the Philippines.

Can anyone please help me how to properly assemble and setup the ball diff of my TA04-R? I've never used a ball diff before. I did what the manual told me, aka tighten but do not over tighten. I held up the diff with the help of a screwdriver and my hands then used the allen wrench to tighten the screw.

Right now, I can feel resistance on the diff when I turn one wheel and the other turns the opposite direction. is that the normal setup or it must bind more, close to locking up the diff itself? I'm worried the diff might break or balls getting a flat spot. It's not easy getting parts here in the Philippines due to high prices.

PS, I was in the racing scene before when the original 2WD RC10 was still around. I was using a Limited Kyosho Optima Mid Pro that time but I never had a ball diff before!

Thanks for all your help!

[aussie_bloke]

there are two ends to the ball-diff
one end has the screw in it, the other one doesnt.

step 1: in the end that doesnt have anything in it, put something
in the slot to stop it from turning

step 2: by trial and error, you will need to tighten the screw a bit, hold both ends of the diff securely and see if you can turn the pulley. if you can, then you will need to keep tightening the diff

step 3: stop this process once you can only just turn the pullry using the above process.

hope i was of some help to you, as i have all the time in the world for TA04 racers :D

cheers,
Brent

[jbrians]

wow, talk about fast reply! Thanks aussie! I'll do that in a little while. just one thing, can i adjust the diff even if I now have the car fully assembled and running? I don't think it's easy to take out the diffs again.

When you said pulley, that's the middle part right? the one where the balls are located?

[jbrians]

I just review the manual again, i may have everything correct.

so I don't need to adjust the diff or anything? just set it up correctly and that's it? They said it's adjustable so I presume i may have to tighten or something.

pulley doesn't turn the opposite as the two diff joints. but the two diff joints rotate opposite each other smoothly when I turn the wheel. I hope my setup is correct.

Thanks again!

[J-racer]

Yes, you can adjust the diff when it is still installed in the car. You have to take the drive shaft out of the 'short' side of the diff. This gives you access to the adjustment screw.
You want to adjust your diff such that when installed in a fully mounted car, when holding one wheel and the spur gear (best to hold the right wheel, cause then you can hold the wheel and the spur gear with one hand), you have cannot turn or have difficulty turning the other wheel (in my case the left wheel).
It's the same for the front, but there it's a little bit more tricky , so I usually hold the wheel and the front belt.
That should give you the best result. If you've assembled the diffs clean, they should still rotate free. I usually set my diffs such that when I give them a spin they turn 1 to 1 1/2 revolution before stopping.

[jbrians]

I'm pretty sure i now know how the diff is set up. while i'm holding the right rear wheel and the spur, i can turn the wheel but it's very tight. is that correct?

I just don't understand your setup:

such that when I give them a spin they turn 1 to 1 1/2 revolution before stopping

when I rotate the left wheel while holding the spur and right wheel, the left only turns about a quarter turn. Is that too tight?

I can't test the front though as I'm afraid I'll stretch or even break the front belt! :eek:

[J-racer]

It sounds like your diffs are fine!

I meant when spinning the diffs without holding anything. So spinning one wheel forward and letting the other wheel spin backwards freely.

[aussie_bloke]

Originally posted by J-racer
I usually set my diffs such that when I give them a spin they turn 1 to 1 1/2 revolution before stopping.

it doesnt matter how much your diff spins, that will make no difference whatsoever
but anyway, here is a little diagram of the diff so that you can see what to do:
_______________________
| __ |
| |__| |
| |__| |
| ______ |__| ________ |
| |____ \|__|/ ____| |
| ____| |__| |____ |
| |______/|__|\________| |
| End with|__| End without Screw
| Screw |__| |
| |__| |
|______Pulley____________|


BALL DIFF IN FRONT:
hold the pulley with one hand
with the same hand, put something in the slot on the end that doesnt have the screw in it.
tighten the screw a bit, then put something in the slot of both ends, and try to turn the pulley. if you can turn it easily, then you will need to repeat this process.
stop only once you can only just turn the pulley with something jammed in each end.

BALL DIFF IN REAR:
do the same as above, but keep it loose. you should be able to turn the pulley FAIRLY easily with something in each end.

FINE TUNING:
you can adjust the handling of your car by tightening or loosening the diffs. I'll get back to you on that one as i really have to go now
BTW, HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL YOU 04 RACERS:D

[aussie_bloke]

damn, my picture of the ball diff didnt turn out properly.
sorry about that

[TEM]

I just bought a TA04-R with the Altezza body(btw, anyone know what it's worth or going to be worth considering they don't make them no more?)... Haven't put it together yet. Anyone got a good setup for stock racing on high traction carpet track, both tight and open tracks. Needs to stay TCS legal.. Thanks!

[tomdav]

Ok I have the new graphite tub for my TA04R and the front belt is way too tight. I did not even mount the belt tensioner. Other than loosening up the topdeck and squeezing the chassis like a taco what other options are there.
There is way too much drag as it is now.

Tom

[fabolousRC]

tomdav...soak them on WD40 for a night...it should loosen up

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by TEM
I just bought a TA04-R with the Altezza body(btw, anyone know what it's worth or going to be worth considering they don't make them no more?)... Haven't put it together yet. Anyone got a good setup for stock racing on high traction carpet track, both tight and open tracks. Needs to stay TCS legal.. Thanks!

The body goes for about $60...$100 if you find an EbayNut buyer

[aussie_bloke]

Originally posted by fabolousRC
tomdav...soak them on WD40 for a night...it should loosen up

when you buy the low friction belts, it tells you not to use and sprays or liquids. thats why they suply you with a silicon bag thing, to get rid of moisture. dont use any liquid because the kevlar will get soaked. by the way, my low friction belt is very tight as well. i'll go to my lhs and ask whats wrong, then i'll get back to you

cheers,
brent

[Cychalen]

53481 TA04 Carbon Reinforced Lower Deck that comes with the HKS Racing Altezza stretches the belt too much. It will get loose over time.
53494 TA04 Light Carbon Lower Deck solves the problem.

[aussie_bloke]

but with the reinforced one, you will still have the problem of stones gettin caught in your gears

[TEM]

fabolousRC, how about the whole kit, new in box?...

As for the belt being too tight; the store that you bought the kit from can get you a free replacement chassis from tamiya. They gave me one on the side and the owner told me all about it....

[tomdav]

Tamiya replaced mine at the Nats. Its tub 55494. Its the newest tub chassis. The only way too fix it would be to move the front pully closer or the layshaft. Or tamiya could make a new belt.

Tom

[jbrians]

Is that tub chassis also made of carbon graphite or a carbon reinforced plastic like the one included in the TA04-R (Raybrig NSX 2002)?

[jbrians]

I personally own a TA04-R based Raybrig NSX 2002. My friend wants to buy his own TA04 series chassis (he currently owns an F-201) so we can race the same class but the R series' price is a bit high for him.

He's wondering what's the main difference of the S and R and if the S is worth it or should he go for the R instead.

I just want to get the other's brief opinion about this.

[MrHorspwer]

My TA04-S is for sale... hardly used, no scratches on chassis, only used on indoor carpet, hop-ups totaling over $90 including TRF aluminium shocks... asking $100 shipped anywhere in the lower 48. I have pics if interested.

[Cychalen]

TA04-R costs more, but in the end your friend will probably spend much more to upgrade it to TA04-R specs.
The 1st car that I bought was a TA04-R and I don't think it needs any upgrades. I also bought a TB01, and it is going to cost more than a TA04-R because I keep finding weakenesses. I should have waited for TB Evo III. :(

[jackhammer74]

Take it from me, get the 04R, I should of, I got the Loctite Zexel Skyline, since I've spent at least another $200 in hop ups, and I'm not done yet I still got to get ball diffs, and a couple other things.
If he wants an R tell your friend to order from here
http://www.hobbymania.com.hk/eng/more.asp?id=79
I heard their service is great and shipping is reasonable and quick.
$190 for the Raybrig 04R is a steal.

[Cychalen]

US$190 is a very good price!

Option Parts Included in TA04-R. From
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58282ta04r/ta04r.htm

* Carbon Reinforced Resin Lower Deck
* TRF Dampers
* Aluminum Rear Bulkhead Beam
* Aluminum Servo Stay
* Universal Shaft
* Urethane Bumper
* 5mm Aluminum Ball Connector (10 pcs.)
* Medium-Narrow Reinforced Tires Type A
* Medium-Narrow Soft Inner Foam (1 Pair)
* TA04 Ball Differential Unit
* TA04 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink

* On-Road Tuned Hard Spring Set
* TA04 Color Stabilizer Set (Front)
* TA04 Color Stabilizer Set (Rear)
* 4mm Hard Lock-Nut & Spacer Set
* TA04 Aluminum Hub Set For Spur Gear
* TA04 Racing Hub Carrier Set
* TA04 Toe-In Rear Uprights
* TA04 Low Friction Belt (Front)
* TA04 Low Friction Belt (Rear)
* TA04 Carbon Upper Deck
* Full Bearing Set

TRF Dampers, TA04 Ball Differential Unit, TA04 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink & Full Bearing Set which are in my opinion necessary upgrades will cost more than the difference between the two.

[twinturboz24]

Thanx aussie_bloke. I just wondered about the gearbox because I wanted a high top speed with good acceleration and these require two different gears. It doesnt matter if they don't make I was just curious because I saw one for the pro 3.

About the chassis thing, I was running the bathtub chassis when I posted but I have since gotten the woven carbon chassis. thanx for your help.

[TRI-TURBO]

Hey Everybody I just Got a New TA04-R Chassis kit!!! so far so good, but the belt seems to be rubbing agenst the very edge of the carbon upper deck:( im just wondering if this is right or not, and how it could be fixed:confused: :confused:


Ill try posting pics of my car once im done!:)

[jbrians]

Thanks so much to those who answered my question re: TA04-R or S! Unfortunately, my friend can't buy outside our country (Philippines). Shipping will be very expensive. We're stuck in buying from our local stores! :(

Tri-Turbo, the belt should'nt suppose to touch the upper deck. Mine has about 4mm clearance between them even if i press down on the belt, it doens't even touch.

BTW, Very important question.... How do I adjust the toe-in using the turnbuckles? is it front to back to increase toe in or is it the otherway around?

Another important question for TA04-R owners.... Will a Saddlepack battery fit the battery placement of the TA04-R? I heard someone from another forum that the space isn't big enough and you can't fit a saddlepack on the stock location. Only a stick pack will do. Is that true? I'm about to but matched Sanyo 3000mah cells but hesitant because of that dilemma.


Minor question, is a caliper really THAT important? I want to buy one but my girlfriend isn't convinced I'll burn my money on such a tool! hehehe! I have a small precision ruler that I can manage to use but I know a caliper will help a lot. Plus, what's an alternative as a height guage?

Questions! Lots of them! But I'm sure they will help a lot of enthusiasts! :)

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by jbrians
BTW, Very important question.... How do I adjust the toe-in using the turnbuckles? is it front to back to increase toe in or is it the otherway around?

Whether the tie-rod ends expand or contract all depended on how you oriented the turnbuckle while you installed it in the car. When I installed turnbuckles and titanium torsion bar on my TA04 Pro, I arranged them ALL so that when the wrench arcs up and over toward the back of the car, the tie-rod gets shorter. Simple to remember.


Minor question, is a caliper really THAT important? I want to buy one but my girlfriend isn't convinced I'll burn my money on such a tool! hehehe! I have a small precision ruler that I can manage to use but I know a caliper will help a lot.

In this hobby, there are a lot of spaces that just a normal straightedge ruler can't get to. Many times just eyeballing it doesn't cut it. You might want to check eBay with keywords digital caliper for some inexpensive ones. They might not last as long or keep their precision as the uber-fancy ones, but for under 30 bucks, the cheapies should be good for occasional use when tinkering with RC. Spending money for a cheap version upfront might show you how necessary it might be to spring for a fancier one down the line.

I bought a digital Tesa (http://www.brownandsharpe.com) for work but find myself bringing it home often to use with the RC. Comes in super-handy for measuring sizes of unidentified bolts.

http://www.brownandsharpe.com/productimages/dura-cal.jpg

[jbrians]

Whether the tie-rod ends expand or contract all depended on how you oriented the turnbuckle while you installed it

Oh i see, that's why I'm getting confused! I wanted both linkage to toe-out but I'm getting mixed results! Gotta reorient those turnbuckles! Thanks man!


check eBay with keywords digital caliper

Wow, I guess I'll shell out a few bucks for a caliper but as much as I envy your "digital" caliper, it's just impossible (or even impractical) for me to acquire one. You see, ebay doesn't include my country (pathetic isn't it) even though there's a lot of market here. It's just that shipping is too much expensive (like mainland to Hawaii but much worse!)

The only option I have is to buy from our local retail stores, brand new. I can't find a "digital" variety and if I did, I'm sure it'll be impractically expensive. I'm settling for the mid "analog" variety, particulary with a lock on it. It's actually like what you have in the photo but analog. I'm sure it's enough for me.

My only dilemma is do I get the one with a linear reading or the one with a dial (rotary reading). I'm used to the former but the latter is more expensive. I'm wondering what's the difference? Care to comment, anyone?

[Cychalen]

TRI-TURBO. The belt on mine is not rubbing against the front part of the carbon upper deck, but it has only about 1mm of clearance. So far nothing is broken.

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by jbrians
My only dilemma is do I get the one with a linear reading or the one with a dial (rotary reading). I'm used to the former but the latter is more expensive. I'm wondering what's the difference?

I'm relatively new to calipers too, but the dial version should enable you to acheive more precision since the hand of that dial ought to swing a greater distance between every millimeter reading. With the OLDschool kind, you'd be reading it like you read a ruler.. that is, using your eyeball's best judgement to try to estimate how many fractions of a millimeter the slide indicator is pointing at. The Dial and Digital versions help to "magnify" the small increments for you. Look for one with a thumbwheel like the one shown on the bottom of the one pictured. If you needed to slide the caliper to a certain measurement, the thumbwheel is more helpful than just pulling on the siding portion.

Then again, if you admit to be overly clumsy and prone to dropping things, the linear oldschool version will be less painful ($$$) to drop.

Back to the TAO4 discussion...

I've had no issues with my belt rubbing the upper deck either... plus I'm not using a belt tensioner, but I'll probably add it soon to serve more as a midway belt guide.

[TRI-TURBO]

Well I fixed it. It turns out i was using the wrong spacers on the steering mounts :rolleyes: , and becasue of that the carbon uppeer deck was't all the way down :o



Heres a Pic :)
My TA04-R (http://community.webshots.com/image4/0/52/79/59805279WzCFvV_ph.jpg)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid46/pd89bf26419de67715965818dda0cddf1/fcd169d4.jpg

[jbrians]

The Dial and Digital versions help to "magnify" the small increments for you.

Thanks for your input. I guess my decision comes to convinience and price value. I don't want to spend more than $15 (converted from PhP) for a tool. Need to buy other things. The linear variety only costs around $7. :p

---------

My belt tensioner is barely touching the belt for now. I wonder if there's a problem with that like belt jumping under load or something. I'm afraid too much tension (or any tension for now) will cause drag and permature belt stretching.

[jbrians]

This maybe an elementary question but....


Tri-Turbo, how do you assemble a pack like that? The only way I know is the |||||| variety and not === kind.

[aussie_bloke]

i know im not tri-turbo, but i can still answer your question.
the configuration you call 'IIIIII' is called 'side by side'
the configuration you call '===' is called 'stick pack'

now, when you make side by side battery packs, you have 6 batteries lined up, each facing opposite way to its partner, also having conductive electrical strips joining the batteries up.

when you make stick packs, you have a row of 3 batteries facing one way, and a row of 3 batteries facing the other way. you put these battery rows next to each other and at one end, solder a bar across the batteries. at the other end, solder a positive and negative wire, making sure of polarity. now, in side by side packs, you have a strip to join batteries, and stick packs are no different. where the positive of one battery and the negative end of another battery touch, there could be some uneven contact. so this is what you do:
on the positive of one battery, solder a strip of braided metal. fold it over so that the unsoldered half of the strip covers the bit you have already soldered. solder the negative of the battery next to the soldered battery to the unsoldered bit of the strip.
now there should be positive contact between the two surfaces. put a circle of super glue around the perimeter of the batteries where they meet, so as to stop the packs from flopping around

[TRI-TURBO]

Originally posted by jbrians

Tri-Turbo, how do you assemble a pack like that? The only way I know is the |||||| variety and not === kind.

Well to tell you the truth i didn't assemble those packs! : /

anywho here are a few more pics i just uploaded


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid46/p0dbd958e18ae3fc0c48da5e1fcb03100/fcd169d5.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid46/p12354884504136ba3c06821ff0d6eb10/fcd169db.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid46/p5ef66e95a5626c746d28b8e1e4c6e2f6/fcd169d9.jpg

[TRF Drive Hard]

I still need to obtain my own 04R... btw tri-turbo, nice 04R;)

[aussie_bloke]

my 04 is a full-option kit. when i get my camera working, i will post some pics of my 04 all the way from Australia :D

[jbrians]

Thanks for the input guys! Now, i'm going to look for a braided metal or wire. My hobby shop doesn't even carry metal bars! I'll try other fellow hobbyist in my area.

Gearing question. The TA04-R comes with a 120t spur and 45t pinion as standard. I'm using a Tamiya Super Stock Motor Type-RR. A rebuildable stock motor that runs at 28,000 rpm. The graph on the box recommends a 45t pinion and a 112t spur which i'll be testing as soon as i post this message.

Just want to get a comment on the best gear combination for this setup especially to Type RR motor users.

[jbrians]

Hmmm... car is slower with the 112/45 combination (duh!) but i get better batt life. :p

Anyway, I mesh the gears by inserting a piece of paper (20lb) between the spur and pinion before tiightening the screw. is this correct?

Also, is it ok for the spur (even the axle) to wobble a bit? i know i haven't crashed yet that will bend it but after a few runs (2 or 3 only) at the track, the gears are more noisy than the first time I run it. is this normal? does this mean I "breaked in" the gears that's why it's noisier than the first time? I'm just presuming the gears bec i've already rebuilt even the one ways but couldn't find anything wrong. seems to come from the gears.

[TRI-TURBO]

Did you Grease the Gears??

[jackhammer74]

do you have the Aluminum spur gear holder? If not, that's the way to go. The stock one is known to wobble a bit.
Also are you using the belt tensioner, if so, you don't need it when the belt is new, either take it off or set the pulley all the way up, where it barely touches the belt.
You don't want to put grease on the spur or the pinion. It will shoot all over the place and just make a mess and attract dirt.
You're meshing it the right way, which is the most important thing.

[Babblefish]

Originally posted by jbrians
This maybe an elementary question but....


Tri-Turbo, how do you assemble a pack like that? The only way I know is the |||||| variety and not === kind.

Anyone wanting to build stick packs, go to this site:

http://www.yourzagi.com/battery.htm

When built this way, you can pull more current than a side-by-side or saddle pack because only one battery bar is used.

BTW: I use a side-by-side pack in my TA-04S chassis, don't know if it'll work in a "R" chassis though - should work since both chassis' are almost the same.

[jbrians]

Originally posted by TRI-TURBO
Did you Grease the Gears??

No I didn't. isn't it taboo to grease the gears? Since the gears are open, I agree with jackhammer not to put anything on them. This is what worries me on these cars. Everything's unprotected including the ball diffs!

Just one run on our street and dirt gets everywhere! My pinion's a bit chipped (very slight) and dirt is stuck inbetween the spur's teeth. I'm only driving on cement or asphalt.

I think the grinding noises come from the pinion/spur. Anyway, the noise is only if i let go of the throttle otherwise, everything seems fine. It's probably just normal.

Even the motor is exposed to the elements on the underside! I just don't understand that design.

Are other cars built this way too? Like TC3 and Yokes?

My Kyosho Optima Mid SP (1990) had everything covered. From the endbell of the motor, gears, up to the whole belt assembly. Of course this is an off road car but even on roads suffer the same dirt and elements, right?

[jbrians]

Oh yeah, about the wobbling issue. I think the spur shaft is ok and I know I have the aluminum spur gear holder as standard. I think the spur gear is the one that's wobbling. I tried reassembling everything but the same thing happens.

I also backed out the tensioner. Thanks for the advice! :)

[TRI-TURBO]

humm i usealy race at an indoor track, so i don't get that much dirt around my car, but i will probably stop lubircating the gears ;). and i belive that most r/c cars have that " bottom side Exposed" design. i think its so the motor can cool down, but im not to shure :confused:



Anybody know what the advantages are to having the
TA04 Aluminum Diff. Pulley??

[Babblefish]

Originally posted by TRI-TURBO

Anybody know what the advantages are to having the
TA04 Aluminum Diff. Pulley??

An aluminum pulley won't get chewed up when a pebble/rock/boulder/small child gets caught between the belt and pulley.

[TEM]

Yeah the aluminium diff pully is more durable, but isn't it heavier; more rotating mass and thus slower?.... I'm in the process of building my TA04R now. On step 9 now. Speaking of diffs, I noticed the diffs are really heavy!, those metal outdrives weight a ton. Anyone tried the lightweight outdrives?, How were they?, cause they look pretty fragile to me but seemed to be the first upgrade I want to put in next to low friction belts.
Also, whos got a way of softening the belts?, the rear one seems pretty hard. I want to run TCS.. Any pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[TRF Drive Hard]

The lightweight outdrives are actually great... its a weight saver and i believe they are made of delrin... i also bought a set from integy as well, those i know for sure are made of delrin... but if running TCS rules, the tamiya versions are the one to hook up with... as for the diff pulley, i had the aluminum version, i like it, sort of, but its heavy... but RCCA says its a nice hop-up... so, ok, in with the aluminum diff pulley...

Well everyone, aside from what i just posted, i committed another sin... i just bought the NXS TA04R kit... just curious, i was reading the description in the tower site... it says "aluminum rear bulk head beam"? is this in any other kit?:confused:?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDEB9&P=7

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/tamc0297.jpg
here she is:D

[Cychalen]

Yes, it is a SIN! :D
If I remember correctly, you already have a TA04-R. :confused:
Yes, mine is made of aluminium.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Can you show me a pic... i cant recall what is aluminum but the motor heatsink, the shocks, servo mount... i do have 04 pro, which is looking like an R version... slowly... but i wanted to own an actual 04R... the "other" 04 is a project i am working on...;)

[Cychalen]

I don't have my camera with me now.
I have a few old pics but they do not show much.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Im pretty i can spot it, unless it is not viewable...:)

[Cychalen]

Check your e-mail in 3 mins.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Koo Koo Koo Koo Koo KOO:p btw, does the 04R come with hardened suspension arms?:confused:

[TRF Drive Hard]

OK, i see it... the 04pro does not come with such... much like the same one used in the 414m2... only blue... and i want to order that in blue, is it possible? what do your sources say Cy?:D

[Cychalen]

They are made of regular plastic.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Then thats not a true type R... see, now i gotta buy the hardened stuff... sheesh:rolleyes:

[Cychalen]

You want 414M2 blue arms?

[TRF Drive Hard]

WHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAA!?!?! they have blue arms? aluminum!?!?!:eek:

[Cychalen]

I don't think there are blue arms. ;)
Do you have the item number for the blue bulk head beam? I can ask for availability.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya thats what i was talkin bout, the blue bulkhead beam... see what you can dig up for me ya?;)

[Cychalen]

Ok, but I'll need the item # 1st.

[TRF Drive Hard]

LOL i dont have it at this moment, maybe some on this bb will know...:D

[jackhammer74]

The aluminum beam you guys are talking about, comes with the
Rear reinforced gear case. Tam. part # 49203, It also comes with
bearing that's placed underneath the diff. pulley. It's supposed to keep the belt from skipping when accelerating.

[Cychalen]

Thanks for the info.
The stock rear gear case seems strong. Are there other benefits from getting the reinforced one besides being stronger?

[J-racer]

The advantage of the reinforced rear bulkhead is not only the use of the aluminum beam, but also an additional bearing for the pully shaft. The pully shaft is then held with 3 bearings iso 2 with the original TA-04 pro kit. I don't know which rear bulkhead the TA-04R uses.

[Cychalen]

Thanks for all your replies.
TA04-R comes with all the parts Tam. part # 49203 comes with. I think the only difference is in the color of the aluminium beam and stronger gear case.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well i got my 04R today... im so happy:D now, what to do what to do:p

[Cychalen]

Build it and run it.;)
I still can't decide which one to get. 58300 TA-04 ABT AUDI TT-R (2 bodies!) or 58299 TB EVOLUTION III? :confused:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well i got as far as building the diffs... i replaced the balldiffs with tungsten-carbide from Acer-Racing... i bought this kit for a special reason... im gonna deck it out with mostly tamiya optional parts... the tranny will have ceramic nitride balldiffs and ceramic nitride bearings from Acer Racing... Eagle Racing light weight diff pully... and we'll see what i will have when im finished:cool:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Speaking of 04... my 04 pro has been up'ed with a few mods...

TAMIYA Option Parts
-Carbon saddle pack chassis
-Upper carbon plate
-Aluminum steering
-Aluminum finned motor mount
-Universals front/rear

INTEGY Option Parts
-Aluminum steering knuckles
http://secure400.automatedshops.com/~wfp16353/1473.JPG
-Aluminum C hubs
http://secure400.automatedshops.com/~wfp16353/1474.JPG
-Aluminum rear hubs
http://secure400.automatedshops.com/~wfp16353/1476.JPG
-Aluminum front/rear arms
http://secure400.automatedshops.com/~wfp16353/1475.JPG
http://secure400.automatedshops.com/~wfp16353/1477.JPG
I will post a pic of my soon to race 04R Spec when im finished adding more stuff... but thats all i have for now:D

[TRI-TURBO]

Do Those Aluminum parts only come in that colour?:confused:

[mumblesjj]

what other company makes hopup for the tao4-r chassic, integy is out of the front stering blocks.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Unfortunately that is the only color integy offers... purple... so thats why i sy=tayed away from using blue optional parts from tamiya and the purple from integy... so purple and silver will have to do... and as far as i know, integy is the only aftermarket company that makes/or distributes the parts;)

[jackhammer74]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Unfortunately that is the only color integy offers... purple... so thats why i sy=tayed away from using blue optional parts from tamiya and the purple from integy... so purple and silver will have to do... and as far as i know, integy is the only aftermarket company that makes/or distributes the parts;)

If you don't like the purple just soak them in OFF oven cleaner, it works, (you just have to be patient) it removes the purple annodizing, then you can buff them with a dremel and, BAM!! you have nice silver parts that will contrast well with the blue Tamiya parts.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey i forgot about that process... i could have done that, but oh well... it's bolted on, and she's ready to race:D

[Cychalen]

Pictures please.:)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Here...

[TRF Drive Hard]

another...

[TRF Drive Hard]

see what i mean... stupid double post

[Cychalen]

Those dampers look like the ones coming with TB Evo III. :eek:

[tonylukes]

Anyone have a good damper suggestion for a Ta04-s that wouldnt cost as much as the TRF dampers? anyone try to use the Hot Bodies threaded units? Thanks.

tonylukes

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by Cychalen
Those dampers look like the ones coming with TB Evo III. :eek:
Well actually those are the original super low friction dampers anodized gold...;) now why would the EVO3 be equiped with such:p

[Whacky]

Hi there.

I have a question about the TA04 and i hope someone will give me a fair answer to it.

Is there anyone that has driven a PRO 3 or a TC3 or owns one and has a TA04 that can tell me the difference in handeling or other advantages of the TA04 besides it's Tamiya and almost indestructable????

I'm asking this because i have a PRO3 and i might want to sell it.
But i'm alse looking for a new car and since i have a well hopuped TB01 i know the quality of the tamiya cars.
There is no one with a TA04 where i race so i can't trie it before i buy it.

O and if it makes any difference, i race on an small tight asphalt track with mid-high traction.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Here's a sneek peek at my "super" light weight diff for the rear... this includes the ceramic nitride balldiffs... total value: approx. $90USD:eek: this is a 04R i am currently working on... along with some other projects:P













:D

[TEM]

Whacky, I've got a PRO3, 2 FT TC3's and TA04R's.

The Pro3, well the american version is a piece of crap. I mean you need lots of hopups to make it handle well enough to race. Yes, rid it before no one wants it. I want to sell mine too. Only advantage to this car, it's cheap, and flex instead of break. However, good things are not cheap, cheap things are not good. Theres so much slop on this car it isn't funny; "Mama says, slop is the devil!"

The FT TC3 is an excellent car. It handles like a dream if you know what you are doing. Everything is good out of the box except for springs and oil. The car needs no hopups at all. I find shaft drives a little more efficient, no belt to stretch or wear out. Some people say it breaks easy, but thats a lie. It just depends on how lucky you are. However, I have found that the CVD's do bend easily. I've bent 2 but never broken an arm or carrier yet. Can't go wrong with this one.

TA04R. I've put one together and raced it for one night. I raced on carpet and found that the springs and oil to be suitable for racing(I think I could use a slightly heavier oil but the stock setup is more than decent). Its not often you find kit springs good for anything! The shocks are EXCELLENT, ultra smoooooth! The car handles quite nicely, but doesn't pack the umph like the TC3(but I'm working on it though). I felt it feels a little on the heavy side, maybe it's because I hated the heavy diff outdrives, not sure, have yet to put it on a scale. When I have it all sorted out I can give you more accurate and specific info. The stock drivetrain has a rather high rotating mass in my opinion, I mean the outdrives, and drive shafts are heavy. Not noticable to most, however. Stock gearing on tamiyas drives me nuts; but I'm working on it. Quality of this kit is high, and it was a pleasure to build, with excellent instructions and part fit. After a night of racing, I found I bent a pivot ball that holds up one of the torque rods. Still, it's no biggie. Also it comes with a very nice body(mine's the altezza), thats going up in $$$ itself! This car also needs no upgrades, but I will be buying the lightweight outdrives to make me feel better mentally.

To sum it all up, the Pro3(american version) is basher's material, or for people who's got lots of money to dump in to either make it look good, OR, to say, I can make it race worthy(cheating themselves and their own wallets). It's rather humorous to see people post a million pics of ultra hopped up Pro3's and made it look like a Hara replica(yes, hara's "real" replica version IS a race car), but if you look at the tires/electronics, you know those guys are DEFINATELY not real racers! The FT TC3(yes FT, don't bother with the racer or ..... ....) is a "You won't get screwed" option. It is an excellent RACE car. Parts are abundant incase you break or want to dress it up(really, no need). Finally the TA04R(R is the way to go!, screw the S! and ?) is a race worthy car as well. It will take some balls to catch a TC3 in stock form, but still is a good car. I find that the TA04R is slightly more forgiving to drive. Since it's tamiya, it leaves your options open to race in the TCS. It is THE car to have for the GT2 class.

Anyways, if you're interested in buying a sealed NIB TA04R Altezza, I've got one for sale, PM me if you're interested.

[Whacky]

Hey TEM

Thanks for your answer.
I'm from Holland and parts for a TC3 are hard to find or cost $$$ besides it uses non metric BB and tools wich wil cost $$$ and are hard to find to. PS have driven a TC3, Second lap i broke a C-hub,
exposed gears, and pebbels in the steering rack are big problems compared to my TB01
I'm not a bad driver and i havent broken a part on my PRO3 or TB01 in 2 years now. (Don't like the graphite stuf in the suspension part its to fragile and the sideboards of the track are tuffer than most cars).


As for buying a TA04 well i am broke and i need to sell my PRO3 first and save a little before i can afford one.

[Cychalen]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Well actually those are the original super low friction dampers anodized gold...;) now why would the EVO3 be equiped with such:p
I think it is the same one.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Those are the threaded body trf shocks;)

[TEM]

Anyone out there have good TCS legal setups for both carpet and asphalt?

[tamiyajoe]

i noticed the purple suspension stuff from integy and i want to use the on my trf414m2 chassis. should i use them? i no the front caster block wont work because it does not have the connections for the torque arm. is this a good idea or wat?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Youre better off with the stuff that you have on already... i have those parts and it on my ta04 instead... had they made them blue then ya i would slap them on to compliment the rear of the 414m2... but if youre racing the m2, then leave the original parts, they are light than the aluminum... and purple and blue dont look so cool together:D

[TRI-TURBO]

Does Anybody know any good bodies that will fit the TA04 right to the bumper?? so far the only body that i know of that fits right tot he bumper is the HPI altezza/IS3000.

[TRF Drive Hard]

HPI's Honda Civic fits nice;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Here's a sneek peek at my 04R Type "T" she's not quite finished yet... i need to aquire certain parts to complete her... here's a break down of what she's made of...

-Carbon Saddle w/upper deck
-Carbon front shock tower
-Carbon rear shock tower
-Blue Aluminum parts... you know what they are;)
-Light weight diff cups w/delrin pulley... inside are ceramic nitride diffballs... of course, front and rear:D
-Center one-way... contemplating on a front one-way

that's all for now:cool:

ted

[TRF Drive Hard]

Almost forgot... it has at least 98% titanium screws;)

[Cychalen]

Are titanium screws better? In which way?

[TRI-TURBO]

Nice!!!!!
but what happned to your TA03 project??:confused:

[Cychalen]

He is changing his user name to TA04Drive Hard. :D
What's the weight of the chassis?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by Cychalen
Are titanium screws better? In which way?

Ti screws are lighter than stock steel and 4 times stronger;)

[SegaBowMan]

will the TA04 camber links fit a TL01? they look about the right size and length. how much would it cost to buy a complete set?

[mrcthunderking]

From reading thru some of the old posts on here, it seems the TA04 sport is the least popular TA04 by far. I was on Ebay today and I bought a Brand new in the box TA04 sport kit (the Skyline GT-R), for "buy it now" $100 + $10 for shipping. Did I get a great deal, a so-so deal, or should I have just passed it by???? It comes with bearings and oil shocks (which I'm sure you already knew). I don't race, just wanted another car to hit the parking lots with. What do you think?? The auction number is #3111359998

-eric

[schnitzer]

Technically I think that sports version is too stock and you will end up paying more when you mod it later. I think everyone says the R version is the most bang for the buck at $199 at ultimate hobbies but overall, sports version is not that bad for bashing.

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by mrcthunderking
Brand new in the box TA04 sport kit ...Did I get a great deal, a so-so deal, or should I have just passed it by????

I think you made a fine move. Despite all the fuss about the TA04R, not everyone has a $200budget.

The way I see it, a TA04S at roughly the same initial price as a TL01 comes out ahead as it's chassis design allows far more room to grow (suspension tweaks, gearing range) as the skills improve. Most aspiring racers end up replacing parts due to wear & tear during the course of their "training", so just use THAT as a pragmatic reason to hop-up.

Will you end up paying far more than a TA04R ...or even a TRF414MII? Probably, but does it REALLY matter if you're spreading it out over time. For the beginner, this seems a more sensible approach to me.

[aussie_bloke]

carter TG, thats exactly the reason that i bought an S

[aussie_bloke]

Originally posted by Babblefish
When built this way, you can pull more current than a side-by-side or saddle pack because only one battery bar is used.

this is not true. it all depends on what materials you use to make the bars. im using home-made ones. theyre made of berryllium copper. its extremely expensive, and is super super conductive and is very very hard to find

[mrcthunderking]

What you guys are saying is probably true, but like I said, I'm not gonna race it. I just enjoy hitting the parking lots with my cars. Probably wouldn't upgrade more than 3 or 4 things if any at all. Don't assume I'm new either (is 14 years in the hobby still considered newbie) :D

Maybe I didn't explain myself well enough, but the main reason I posted was to ask if I had gotten a good deal or not. I assumed it was, and that's why I bought it. THe TA04S probably wasn't at the top of my "cars I want" list, but thought it may have been a deal. I've spent most of my 14 years in r/c doing offroad and monster trucks, a little onroad.

If Ultimate Hobbies has the R version, Tower Hobbies will match it (if they have it advertised in RCCA). Then with coupons and free shipping I could get the TA04R for about $185 delivered. Maybe I should consider Ebaying this kit, making a little cash, and trading up to the R. I would like to have the nicer shocks and the heatsink motor mount, probably the alum. spur gear adaptor.... the rest of it I could live without probably.

To be a little more direct with my question... What have other people paid for the Skyline GT-R kit???

thanks for your replies!

eric

[SegaBowMan]

$120:eek: I paid 125 for my TL01. ah well. It may be more durable than a TA04. does the TA04S come with a motor and msc?

[Cychalen]

No, it does not.

[mrcthunderking]

I paid $110 shipped, not $120 :D

No this particular model doesn't come with motor or msc. It does come with oil filled shocks and bearings though.

I only paid about $70 for my TL01 Cobra-R kit at Tower, after price matching and coupons. I also just bought a second TL01 brand new kit that came with some other goodies. When I sell off the other goodies, I'll be keeping that mustang for free :D

That was a smooth deal. I got a new TL-01 Cobra-R (never run, never painted), with two esc's (one new in box), a set of hummer wheels (NIP), A NIB super blackfoot hardbody set w/ nip decals, all for $95 shipped. The only thing I want is the cobra-R for my dad to run with mine. After I sell the other 4 goodies, the mustang should end up being free. Free is for me I always say :D:D:D

[SegaBowMan]

price matching? do I have to sign up on the super saver's club before I can do this? my mistake on the price, I thought it said 110 + 10,

[mrcthunderking]

Sega, no man, you don't have to be a Tower Super Saver Club member to price match. When ordering by phone, upon request they will match any price that is advertised the current issue of RCCA. The item must be advertised by Tower and the other business though. I do it all the time, been doing it for years actually.

You do have to be a club memeber to get free shipping on $150+ orders though.

I bought a TXT-1 kit from Tower not long ago for $315 shipped to my door, just for an example of using price matching, coupons, and free shipping. Regular price was $369 + $7.99 shipping. So I saved $61.99. My local Hobby shop sells the same kit for $425 which is why I support Tower 110%. I'm all for helping the small business man, but not $425 for what I can get for $315..... that's just ridiculous. If they go out of business.. they have nobody to blame but themselves (the LHS). Plus the people who own this particular shop are basically jerks.

[SegaBowMan]

well, $425 compared to $369. your lhs doesn't have coupons. you pay tax at the lhs, but you also pay shipping for online.

If tax applies only because you live in that particular state, then wouldn't tax be cancelled if you buy it in another state?

[mrcthunderking]

I don't pay sales tax at the LHS because I live in Delaware (home of tax free shopping) :D

I also don't pay shipping at Tower... I get free shipping on orders over 150, and I never make smaller than a 150 order :D

I'm not sure if you read my post carefully, but I said I got my TXT-1 for $315 delivered..... LHS was $425

[SegaBowMan]

yea. I'm just using the original price if someone didn't use the coupons and stuff like that.

[mrcthunderking]

Yeah cool, anyway enough of this cheap txt-1 talk, I apologize to the TA04 guys, I realize this thread is for TA04's only.

I was just looking for someone to comment on the auction I won... good, bad, or indifferent.

later,
eric

[aussie_bloke]

does anybody have a good recommendation for stock motor with a ta04 and what gearing?

[gaowee]

i run p2kpro 40pinion/128spur

[TRF Drive Hard]

p2k2 pro, 40/120:cool:

[TEM]

For just about any stock motor(healthy ones) and rubber tires(64mm dia), 38-41 pinion, 120 or 128 spur. smaller pinion if the track is tight, go bigger if the track has lots of long sections.

Rollout for this car is

Pinion/spur * 15/32 * 3.14159 * tire diameter

A rollout of between 27-30 is good for stock....

[TRF Drive Hard]

:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

OK... this 04 is almost TCS legal... here are a few other mods i added...

Titanium rods... front/rear upper links, tension, and steering... from GPM of course...

TRF blue threaded shocks, if not mentioned before...

Tamiya 11t super mod motor

Tamiya 2002 TRF ESC

Speedmind battery heasinks

Trinity 3000HV matched cells

I wont race this one... its another shelf queen:D

[TRI-TURBO]

sweet;) can you use the standard carbon upper deck that comes with the 04-R with the carbon saddle chassis?? or do you have to get a specifc upeer deck?


Heres some intreasting news i found on the Tamiya website

TA04-TRF

http://www.tamiya.com/english/nurn2003/photo/ta04_trf.jpg
"Tamiya has done the impossible by taking the top-performance TA04-R to an even higher level. Adding an all-new front one-way to the existing center one-way, this chassis realizes even higher drive efficiency. Suspension areas have been "suped-up" with fluorine-coated TRF dampers and suspension blocks. "

[twinturboz24]

Does anyone make aluminum bulkheads for the TA04? Does anyone know if the Aluminum bulkheads from the TRF 414 M II will fit a TA04? They look pretty similar.

[Cychalen]

TA03 Drive Hard.
Shelf queen with all those top of the line electronics. :confused:
Are you going to try your Tamiya 2002 TRF ESC? Is it good?
I can't see those Ti parts. Show them please. :cool:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Here:cool:

[TRF Drive Hard]

So do you guys have this on your 04R?:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Here's a pic of the TRF 2002 ESC:cool:

[TRF Drive Hard]

I havent used the ESC yet, dont plan on it... i only have one and if i had another, then i use it... but its part of the shelf queen lol:p

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by twinturboz24
Does anyone make aluminum bulkheads for the TA04? Does anyone know if the Aluminum bulkheads from the TRF 414 M II will fit a TA04? They look pretty similar.

I tried doin that... the geometry is different... though they do use the same suspension, steering parts... but not the bulkheads:cool:

[Cychalen]

Very nice and shiny. :cool:

[TRI-TURBO]

:eek: eshshh!! thats some pretty crazy stuff for a shelf queen drivehard!!.. how much was it to doo all of that???


are you planing to get that new TRF TA04???

[TRF Drive Hard]

Im guessing 400+ maybe... i bought everything by itself, built it from ground up... price excludes the electronics... but the most costly part of the car is the front and rear diff assembly... with the light weight universals+diff assembly=about 90 dollars... as for the trf ta04... thats prolly my next car:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
So do you guys have this on your 04R?:D

This is what i am talkin bout just in case you didnt know what i meant...

[Cychalen]

Mine is made of plastic and is part of the lower chassis.
Can you change your name to TA04 Drive Hard if you want to? :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

I dont have that option:D but SteveP can;) ya think i should change my name? wadda ya think guys?:cool:

[TEM]

I dont have that option but SteveP can ya think i should change my name? wadda ya think guys?

TA04 Drive Hard?, NO WAY!, I'd say stick with TA03 Drive Hard, thats if the man drives his TA03!, if you want TA04 in the name, better make it TA04 Shelf Queen! jk...

Anyways, thats quite a fancy car you got there. But it's crying "race me" as it sits on your shelf. I mean a race car should be raced! On a side note, do you think it would have been easier if you started out with a TRF414?

[TRF Drive Hard]

I do have a TRF414M2:D but ta04 shelf queen? lol LMAO... good one:p

[tamiyajoe]

You already have a F/S in the B/S/T forum... no need to post it here...

[tamiyajoe]

hey drivehard (waddup) wat car do you race? seein that hoped up ta04 is shelfed.

[TRF Drive Hard]

04, 03, 02, ff01, tl01... just a few outta 20+ kits...

[aussie_bloke]

.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Wha?:confused:

[aussie_bloke]

sorry, can somebody tell me how to post a picture here?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Just a lil above the "submit" button... look to the left on the screen and you shoudl see "attach file" a lil to the right of the screen you will see "browse" click that to browse your computer for the image you want to upload... be sure to add text to complete the reply, then hit submit... remember, the file image can be no bigger than 61440byte...:cool:

[MrHorspwer]

I'm gonna be running in a spec racing class at my LHS... what kind of pinion/spur setup (or a rollout number) will I need for a mabuchi stock can motor? The track setup is changed each week, but it typically has at least one 30ish foot straight (possiably two). Thanks.

[TRI-TURBO]

Hey Drive hard can you post a pic with all of your ground up, "Shelf Queen" cars. what car's are they?? TA03, TA04, and 414MII??:cool:


For mabuchi 540 can motor i have it geared 45 & 120

[Cychalen]

TRI-TURBO.
Good idea.

TA03 Drive Hard. You should make a new thread called "TA03 Drive Hard's Shelf Queen Collection". :)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey thats a cool idea!!! i will do that... but im still working on my 2nd tricked 03 and soon i will have the ta02 finished, as soon as i get my parts... the title will be "My Tamiya Shelf Queens" oh and im still needing some other optional parts for my ff01... gotta look into my "connections" lemme see... Cychalen has the bodies i need, Asiatees has the parts i need... hmmmmmm:D

[J-racer]

Anybody interested in the TA-04 TRF???

[Cychalen]

It looks nice and the specs are cool too, but I doubt it will be much better than TA-04R.

[Whacky]

J-Racer check your privat messages!!!!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Correct me if im wrong... but does anyone see the suspension block anodized blue???:eek:

[aussie_bloke]

yes, they are blue anodized blocks. im trying to find out the part # for it. i should be able to post it tomorrow if i have it

[TRF Drive Hard]

EEK EEK EEK... now i really need that part!!! aw heck i just end up getting a whole new kit:D

[J-racer]

I wouldn't be surprised if the roll center is raised with the new suspension blocks. They did it with the EVO III blocks, so why not with this one.
It looks really cool with the Silver Surface Graphite parts!!

[Archerboi]

Does the bodies that come with the Tamiya kits have pre-cut wheel wells? Or are they clearly marked? And the body post holes? Are they clearly marked as well? I am thinking of getting the new Audi TT TA04. Thanks.

[Cychalen]

I have a few Tamiya bodies and only one body came with wheel wells precut. They all come clearly marked so don't worry.
The post holes are also clearly marked.

[Cychalen]

Keep in mind that ABT Audi TT-R DTM is for the short wheelbase (247mm) TA04-SS chassis. It will not fit on other chassis unless you make some modification.

[Archerboi]

Thanks for the info. I was going to use the Audi body just for the TAO4 ss. I am not that good with cutting Lexan straight unless everything is marked. I use a X-Acto knife for the wheel wells, and scissors for the rest.

[Cychalen]

I use a curved scissor for wheel wells and x-acto knife for straight lines.
There are some good tips here. (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=101940&highlight=snap)
I want a ABT Audi TT-R DTM body too.
I am converting my TA04-R to TA04-SS. :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Why? for the ABT?:confused:

[Archerboi]

Hey thanks for the tips. I have a pair of curved scissors, but I used a X-Acto knife before for the wheel wells, and if your carefull you can do a good job. But its always helpfull to have the trim lines.

[Cychalen]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Why? for the ABT?:confused:
Yes, for the ABT.:)

[aa240sx]

Okay. Basically, I would like to convert my TA04 chassis to rally spec. Why? Because I want to jump it and to see if it's even worth it to do this or just go out and buy a XXX spec buggy or truck.

So my question is what parts and part numbers would I need?

I figure I need at least:

1. rally wheels and tires
2. longer suspension arms
3. longer shocks

anything else?

[TRF Drive Hard]

I truely dont believe that the 04 was intended to be rally... there are not long suspension arms made for it... the gear boxes are semi-closed, which is an invitation to rocks and debri... and even if you succede in doin so, and find out it wasnt worth it, youd prolly wasted money... prolly better off buying what was intended for... IMHO...;)

[Archerboi]

Hey aa240sx Why don't you get the TT-01 RTR or the TB-01 for a rally car. I plan to get the TT-01 rtr and use that for a cool rally/bashing car, and get the TA-04 for the street and just plain running. Just a idea. Cause by the time you modify your TA04, you could have gotten the TT-01 rtr and that has a sealed drivetrain. ;)

[Cychalen]

That's exactly what I had in mind.
You can get the Skyline R32 TT-01 RTR. That body is quite desirable. :cool:
You don't want to rally a TA04. You will be spending a lot of $ on new belts, pinion gears and spur gears.

[aa240sx]

thanks for the advice. i wanted to do it cuz i have two ta04 and am realizing hmmm why?!! anyway, i'll look into the tt-01 thing too

[Cychalen]

49278 (http://www.tamiya.com/japan/news/news0303/news2.htm#49278) TA04-TRF special chassis kit will cost Yen 35,800.
For comparison, 58274 (http://www.tamiya.com/japan/products/58274ta04s/ta04s.htm) TA04-S CHASSIS KIT costs Yen 12,800.

[CarterTG]

..which according to one of the online currency converters (http://www.xe.com/ucc) translates roughly to $292usd versus $102usd, respectively. Not too outrageous of a price considering these are the MSRP figures. I can't imagine those Flourine-coated TRF shocks come cheap.

[2Fast2Furious]

I was looking on tower at this car I was thinking about getting one tower shows to have a limited stock of this car. I was wondering if this car is still in production? and are parts easy to come by.?

[Cychalen]

TA04-Pro is a limited production car so it is not longer in production.
Don't worry about spare parts. You can use any TA04 compatible parts. It does not have to be a "Pro" part.