TA04 Forum

[monyet fangkeh]

0.4 module in ta04 pinion and spur gear = 48 pitch or 64 pitch?

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by monyet fangkeh
0.4 module in ta04 pinion and spur gear = 48 pitch or 64 pitch?

0.4 mod is closer to 64 pitch.. but note I said "closer".. not truly exact. If you had to use it in a pinch I suppose it'll do the job.

0.6 mod is closer to 48 pitch.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

Im a basher.. i drive around, i plan to start racing though. Should i get the 04r or the trf or the s? i want something i dont have to upgrade to do well and something that wont kill my wallet..:(

[RCAttack]

I checked out a 2 or 3 sites in Hong Kong (all I could find) & the cheapest TA04R was US$190, from Hobby Mania, postage would be about US$50 to get it over here, all up thats about AU$370, compared to the AU$490 that they want over here. The only prob is the 2-3 week wait :mad: .
Any way, I,m sooooo xcited about getting one that I downloaded the TA04 pro manual & read it about 4 times. The only thing that I wasn't too sure about is how tight to do the ball diffs, a bit of experimenting should get it right.
One question someone may be able to help me with is when putting together the arms, you screw a 3X12mm grub screw into the arms near the hinge, anyone know what this is for.
In the mean time I'll hit the track with my tricked up TL-01.

Cheers Brad

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by RCAttack
...a 3X12mm grub screw into the arms near the hinge, anyone know what this is for...

Some might refer to this as "droop screws" Whether that's the correct terminology, I dunno.

When the suspension arms are extended downwards (car at rest) those grub screws press against the lower chassis deck... preventing the arms from further extending downwards too much. Preventing the arms from going too far is one way to affect how high the chassis sits above the running surface.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Also known as a rebound stroke...;)

[madaussy]

those droop screws are also an easy way to do your ride height adjustments,i have foound that a 48 pitch 75 tooth kimborough spur is close to 5mm thick,use it under your chassis and adjust your droop screws so your chassis is just resting on the spur gear,pretty easy stuff.:cool:

[RCAttack]

Cool, but wouldn't it wear though the chassis after awhile?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Not really... it cant actually thread through the chassis...

[sengming]

i got a tamiya 23t stock type RR...and it says to use a 45t pinion and 112t spur. But the gear ratio setup chart in the manual(ta04-r) dosen't show a ratio for 45t and 112 spur gear. Can i still use a 112t with a 45t pinion?

and another Q: do the carbon damper stay improve performence or is it just for looks? someone told me that the platic stock ones are pretty light and strong enough.




thanks

[jackhammer74]

I'm not sure about your gearing question, but about the damper stays, yes the stock ones are just fine to start with, they're light, and fairly strong, don't replace them until they bust, that's what I did.

[TEM]

The tamiya suggested gearing is LUDACRIS!... I mean the stock gearing recommended for a stock motor is 45/120; Realistically; if you're racing it's more like 36-40 and 128!.. I think tamiya makes such suggestions because the basher market is big enough that they need to tell them what to gear it at and since its bashers we're talking about; they want good top speed and NOT a balance of acceleration and top speed... I think you should start by gearing that japanese stock motor like a normal stock motor and work from there!

For the shock tower; jackhammer74 has already answered it.

[sengming]

does anyone have the new ta04 racing anti rolls bars(the trf version) i'm thinking of getting those whne they hit the shelves.

my car tends to oversteers, and i guess the new design helps.

any thoughts on them?

thanks

[monyet fangkeh]

Originally posted by TEM
The tamiya suggested gearing is LUDACRIS!... I mean the stock gearing recommended for a stock motor is 45/120; Realistically; if you're racing it's more like 36-40 and 128!.. I think tamiya makes such suggestions because the basher market is big enough that they need to tell them what to gear it at and since its bashers we're talking about; they want good top speed and NOT a balance of acceleration and top speed... I think you should start by gearing that japanese stock motor like a normal stock motor and work from there!

For the shock tower; jackhammer74 has already answered it. i got MVP so what gearing u would suggest to me so i have a balance of accel and top speed. im thinking getting a spur and pinion set for racing. what pitch should i use? 64 or 48?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by sengming
does anyone have the new ta04 racing anti rolls bars(the trf version) i'm thinking of getting those whne they hit the shelves.

my car tends to oversteers, and i guess the new design helps.

any thoughts on them?

thanks

the TRF stabilzer set for the 04 has been out fro awhile now, should be avaiable to you already... as for that, i have that in all my 04s now... well, the trf kit already comes with it... i think that will help your prob with the oversteer... i believe its in your setting... where is the ballcup joined at in the knuckle? inner or outter? if placed innermost will get more steer... if outtermost, you will get normal steer... but check your radio settings too if you have steering trims and sub trims... i was able to program mine just right...;)

[RCAttack]

Does anyone buy from Hobby Mania in Hong Kong? If so do you have any problems contacting them? I have sent them several Emails over the past couple of weeks & havn't heard back from them. I don't want to deal with a company that is difficult to contact, especially one that's overseas. But I really would like to buy my TA04 from Hong Kong as it is sooo cheap.

Cheers Brad

[TRF Drive Hard]

I can get a TA04R HKS Mercedes for $210USD+$30USD for shipping...:D

btw, whats hobby mania's web site ady?

[DvMxDv]

TA03 Drive Hard,

Here it is

HobbyMania (http://www.hobbymania.com.hk/eng/index.asp)

BTW - you wanna tell me who your source is in Hong Kong? Found a couple on Ebay, but not sure which one... LMK :D

Dave

[TRF Drive Hard]

My sources are ebay... oh... who are the sellers? hehe... gotta go now...:p

[Anton-C]

well, ive basically decided on the tao4 as my next car, the only thing holding me back now is money...

but i have a few ? i will be racing this in the tamiya tcs and i dont really know what class, could you guys suggest some good motors (im new to electric) that would work well for various classes. im pretty sure i will be getting the duratrax intellispeed 8t esc because it is relativly inexpensive, is this a good buy, i know a few people that use it and love it...... :)

thanks for your help.;)

[DvMxDv]

Anton-C

GT3 is Tamiya silver can motor and stick pack only, GT2 is ROAR Stock motor only, GT1 is open.

I'm going to use my 04R for GT2 as it seems that the Evo's and 414's rule the roost in GT1. As far as ROAR stock motors for GT2, I've got a Fantom tuned Trinity P2K2 Pro right now, but will be replacing it with the new Reedy stock Cobalt when it is released. Lots of guys where I run love the Trinity Return of the Monster and one or two even use the Orion Core Stock. Decide what you like, gear your car appropriately (read this WHOLE thread from start to finish for info on that) and set up your suspension (again, read the thread) and go have some serious fun.

If you're dead set on going up against the big buck cars in GT1, pick the motor you like and go for it.

Dave

Here are the TCS Rules:

TCS Rules (http://www.tamiyausa.com/events/tcs/rules.html)

[Anton-C]

thanks, does the kit come with the tamiya silver can motor or will i have to buy one, i think that i will probably go with the gt2 or gt3 class because i dont really consider my self a really really awesome driver, and it sounds like the gt1 class is basically for people that are really in to it and have really good skills with nice cars etc ;)

thanks for your help:D

[RCAttack]

The S & SS come with the standard motor & the R doesn't come with a motor

Cheers Brad

[TRF Drive Hard]

Here a snap shot of my 04-trf...

[RCAttack]

I want, I want, I want:p If that doesn't pick up chicks, this surely will RC Neon (http://www.rcneon.com/)

[civicds]

I know this isn't the b/s/t forum but just wanted to see if anyone was interested in a TAO4-R or a another one. I would like to sell it as a roller or almost rtr or I will trade. If interested let me know by e-mail at civicds1@aol.com oh by the way nice neons rcattack.

[minijosh]

WOW i need my welding goggles to look at that car. I love it. Where did you get the kit at? How was it to install? Hook me up with info plz.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Are talkin bout the neon light kit?:confused:?

[minijosh]

yes is that kit from rc neon?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya that kit is from rc neon;)

[TA04PRO]

Hello

I have a Ta04 Pro and I was wondering
which one fits, the 3x18mm or the 3x23 titanium turnbuckles.
and also how many titanium turnbuckles do I need to buy?

how much are titanium turnbuckles?



Thanks

[TRF Drive Hard]

You would need (6) 3x23mm and (1) 3x18mm... as for the prices, i have no clue to that... if you have the pro... dont you have the manual? it should show how many you are using in the pro;)

[minijosh]

I am gonna be putting a over seas base on my dream sheet just so I can buy Tamiya parts cheap. Okinawa is where I wanna go. Kadena AB i think. If I make it there, I will hook you all up big time.

[TA04PRO]

Hello

Is a 0.4 module 64 pitch?

Also what's a good gear setup for a 13T Speed Gems Pro Kobal?

I have 3 spur gears: 120T,128T, and 112T

Thanks

[minijosh]

here is the age old question about gearing. The kit comes with a 25 tooth pinon and a 83 tooth spur. What is the other number I use?

[RCAttack]

Don't really know what your asking for :confused: , but you would have a gear ratio of 3.32.

[minijosh]

wow that sucks. the gearing in my hpi sprint ends up at almost 6. how did u do the math?

[madaussy]

minijosh,divide your spur gear by your pinion gear,and then multiply the answer by your cars internal ratio(TA04R=2.135),once you have done this millions of times it becomes easy.you can also find ratio conversion charts on any good rc website:cool:

[TEM]

.4 is not 64 pitch.. it's actually a little bigger.

13T, start with something in the region of 32-34 pinion, 128 spur if you're racing on a track. For bashers, no offence, but can't help you there.

Ti turnbuckles; not worth the money unless you're TA03drive hard(no offence). And in that case, you're probably not concerned about the price anyways! You don't need the strength and you won't get a noticable weight advantage unless you GO ALL OUT.

TA03drive hard, I looked at your TRF pic; is that a shelf queen or race car? Cause most of us run way better without the torque rods...

And for any more of them gearing questions concerning ratios; too much confusion! Everyone in the world likes to talk about ratios; ALL WRONG! Nobody knows what you are talking about unless they run the same car!... LEARN WHAT ROLLOUT IS!!!!! There must be magic in the world when you can go race with perfect number ratios like 3,4,5,6... Try something like 6.6538 or 4.6355...Forget it!... !!!!!! LEARN ROLLOUT!!!!!!

[minijosh]

how do i find out my roll out on a ta04-ss which is stock with a stock motor. audi tt light weight shell and T27 tires.

[minijosh]

gearing is important. you either burn out your motor or your esc if you over gear too much or under gear.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by TEM

Ti turnbuckles; not worth the money unless you're TA03drive hard(no offence). And in that case, you're probably not concerned about the price anyways! You don't need the strength and you won't get a noticable weight advantage unless you GO ALL OUT.

TA03drive hard, I looked at your TRF pic; is that a shelf queen or race car? Cause most of us run way better without the torque rods...

Haha no offense takin:D ya thats my shelf queen... i wish i had better quality pics so i can show the whole thing...

[RCAttack]

What do the torque rods do?:confused:

[TRF Drive Hard]

This reduces the flex in the steering that is produced by high torque/speed servos...

[RCAttack]

So, If I use standard servos, I wouldn't need them or best to put them on for support.

[TRF Drive Hard]

In my experience... i use them... makes the steering more rigid...

[RCAttack]

Works for me, all I need is my ride, it's somewhere between Hong Kong & Australia, :rolleyes:

[RCAttack]

Anyone know where I can download a 04-R blank setup shee? TIA

Cheers

[minijosh]

go to the tamiya website in the US and go to the rc part. you can get them there for free

[RCAttack]

Thanks minijosh, I didn't think of the obvious,
Does anyone know of any other shops in Hong Kong that would sell the 04-R, I have tried Hobby Mania, Harmony hobbies & Waigo Hobbies. They are all out of stock & won't have any for a few more weeks.:mad: :mad: :mad: TIA.

Cheers Brad

[Anton-C]

im gonna get a ta04 as soon as possible, but should i get the shorter wheel base one (ta04-ss) or the normal one (ta04-s) i know you are gonna suggest the R but i cant afford one.:(

thanks for your help;)

[Cychalen]

Get the normal one. There are more bodies to choose from. You can convert it to SS later on if you want.
Check page 23 of this thread.

[Anton-C]

ok, ill go for the regular one.
but just out of curiousity what is required to turn a normal one in to the ss or vice versa, is it really just the suspension arms?

thanks:)

[Cychalen]

Yes, that's all you need.

[minijosh]

i own a SS and i kind of wished i had a S. bodies too scarcy and there are only 2 at the moment. the audi TT and the Toyota mrS

[TRF Drive Hard]

Just pick up a set of strandard arms... its way less than 10 bucks... then youd dont have to worry bout the bodies:D

[Anton-C]

cool, i might just get the arms with the car, so i can try both wheel bases;)

[RCAttack]

I read a article in a RC mag a while ago & they mentioned a site where you could paint a body apply strips & stickers & then view the finished product. I have been unable to find that article again, does anyone know what the site might be.

Cheers

[madaussy]

DON,T run your 04R without the torque arms,i had a slight brush against some boards on sundays race meet and demolished my f/l arm and hub carrier,i dont know if it was one of a kind or not but you do appear to lose a lot of strength and rigidity? without them,anybody else had the same problem?:(

[TEM]

Breaking an arm is a matter of luck. There will be times when you hit a wall at full speed and break nothing; and there are times when you clip a corner at 5mph and break an arm!

When you hit a wall hard with the torque rod installed; you put even more strain on your hub carrier! Without it; all the force of the blow is in the sus-arm. When I first ran the car, I couldn't get enough steering. One time I hit a wall hard, the ball stud that held the torque rod ripped right out of the hub carrier. Instead of patching the hole and rethreading it or installing a new hub carrier, I said screw it; lets take the other one out and see how it runs... I've done well without them since. Later on when I talked to the fast tamiya guys; they said leave them out..... I mean if it works for you, keep them. You MIGHT have to sacrifice some durability for handling...

[jackhammer74]

The torque rods eliminate a lot of play in your front suspension, but they do not make it more sturdy or durable. Like TEM said braking parts is a matter of luck.
This past weekend I was having a problem with the back end coming loose at the end of the longest straight, after a few changes I finally got it taken care of, but then it started pushing through the turns, it didn't have enough steering. I removed the torque rods and presto! I had steering. They're just a tuning option, I know I definitely won't use them again in tight courses.

[madaussy]

thanks for the feedback guys,so it appears to be a drivers preference with or without the rods,as TEM said ,you can be lucky and unlucky,jackhammer,did you make any changes to your front oil weight or springs ?,just curious as i have had the same problem on occasions.:cool:

[jackhammer74]

Well, currently this is my setup up front, 60w oil,I may switch to 70w, white springs, yellow swaybar, no torque rods.

[sengming]

here are some pics of my ta04-r with tamiya type rr stock motor, am radio and a mtronik 20turn esc.

[TRF Drive Hard]

I been looking for a type RR... cant seem to find one...:( btw, nice 04;)

[TEM]

Think I'm going to start a "National Organization of TA04 Owners against the Usage of Torque Rods". I've already got a club house, now I'm going to need a VP, a Treasurer, and some members.
:D

You get more turn without the torque rods; but sometimes I think it might be a little too much. Would be nice to eliminate some of that play but not to the extend of using the torque rods. Later on when I break an arm, I might go graphite(hard) and shim it so it's got minimal play.

More on that handling thing... you guys playing with the droop?(Very important!), the stock setting is NONSENSE!

[minijosh]

Hey ta03 drive hard, send me a pm. I know of a place that has those motors online. Are you sure that is a ta04-R? Doesn't the R version have a different battery set up? I am looking for the J-tree that comes with the R. If you didn't use it, can I get it from you?

[madaussy]

heyTEM,isnt droop when you have had to much to drink?:D

[jackhammer74]

Hey TEM how much droop are you running in the front? Just last weekend I realized I wasn't running enough in the rear, so I fixed that, but I'm not sure about up front?

[minijosh]

I will be the bean counter for you. I will include my paypal account for you to deposit everything into plus a shipping address you cannot track down.

[Archerboi]

Read the new items list on the tamiya website, there they have a new version of the TA04, a idea I had. Its the TA04 R with the SSG top plate and shock stays. Now I can get that without spending money on the SSG carbon items. The chassis is the molded graphite one. Cannot wait to get it :D

[TEM]

4mm in the front, 3mm in the rear.

That picture?, that looks like a TA04R to me.

Yes yes; That would look good on a resume... "Treasurer of the National Organization of TA04 Owners against the Usage of Torque Rods".

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by minijosh
Hey ta03 drive hard, send me a pm. I know of a place that has those motors online. Are you sure that is a ta04-R? Doesn't the R version have a different battery set up? I am looking for the J-tree that comes with the R. If you didn't use it, can I get it from you?

Hey minijosh, thats an 04r... the j-tree? is that the battery holder?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by Archerboi
Read the new items list on the tamiya website, there they have a new version of the TA04, a idea I had. Its the TA04 R with the SSG top plate and shock stays. Now I can get that without spending money on the SSG carbon items. The chassis is the molded graphite one. Cannot wait to get it :D

Hey archerboi... done that already... hehe:D

[minijosh]

I didn't know that the R had a tub chassie. I bought those SSG's and i need the J tree from the R model. Yes Drive hard it is the battery holder. The SSG package says to get the J tree to mount the batteries onto it. So I thought the R wasn't a tub chassie. Are the instructions wrong on the package? Opps I cannot read. It is the TA04 Pro J tree that I need. Can anyone help me out on that one?

[Tamiya4eva]

Hey guys. Its Archerboi, I had to change my nic, something happened to my old one and I could not post to anything. I like the new nic better. :D
Anyway, TA03, you really must be ahead of the game. They have a new offroad chassis too. The MB01.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ah ok minijosh... thats chassis you think is a tub is really the lightweight carbon molded chassis... it does not come with the j-tree you need... actually comes with the pro version and trf...;) you could use velcro to strap the packs in... more like a weight saving there...:)

ted

[Tamiya4eva]

Would anyone know how to take acrylic paint off lexan? I airbrushed some Tamiya smoke paint on the windows, and it did not come out well at all. Not smooth. Kind of sandpaper like. :mad:

[RCAttack]

We all talk about the effects tires, suspension & ride height has on our rides, But what about the effect the body has on handling,

With those huge wings we bolt on, I think we forget how important they are, Ever seen a real race car try to get around a track after it has lost its wing? The ass end slides all over the place & at the end of the main straight, the wing really helps to pull the car up for the corner.

I have found when testing with the body on, the car handles alot differently. So what do we do? I like to practice with the body off, to avoid any damage that may occour from a crash. So all my settings are made without the body, Then when I race on goes the body & all that adjusting has changed.

I would like to hear how you guys take the effects of a body into account when setting up your rides!!!!

Cheers

[TEM]

Always practice with a body. Not only is the handling dramatically different, also, the body protects the car and the expensive electronics equipment you have on it. If not for the body, say goodbye to a 100dollar receiver or a 150dollar ESC. Your spur, spur mount and shaft it sits on can get killed too!...

You should practice with the same body you race with or one that is exactly the same brand and model. I do notice a handling difference between bodies, but I don't change my setup to account for those differences. Yes a lightweight ferrari modena 360 makes a hell of a difference from a standard weight protoform 4 door accord!

Ok, so a car is freshly assembled. I'd first go find someone how has one that runs it well and ask them what their set up is and I do the same thing to my car. Then go run it with a normal body(you should have a few of those around for playing with). It might take some time to get the car to hook up. There isn't a real problem with running most bodies for club races but it's just that for the TCS, you have to run a tamiya body. And they tend to be more expensive so I basically reserve the tamiya body for just that. I(most people) like the modena 360. The only thing to play with is maybe the o-ring to angle the wing.

If your car is setup right and you drive good; there should not be much damage sustained on the body from practice or even a race! If if you are bashing into walls often, you have much much bigger problems than what a few bashing bodies will solve. A car that you are sane enough to put on a track should drive straight. It might first corner like crap but will corner. If it won't handle through the corner, drive slow! A car on slick tires will drive over a skating rink if you drive slow enough! Don't try anything stupid, if it dont' work, it's not going to work. Pick it up and back to the drawing board! If a person has the same setup and it works, it has to work in your car to a certain degree!.. It almost has to work good.

RC cars are a lot different than real cars in that we are running faster by scale and running in almost ideal conditions. Do you know race cars angle the wing differently when the air temperature is different!(cold air is denser than hot air!!!)

So after blabbling on forever, whats the final conclusion:
Always run with "a" body
I only play with the wing angle
And I only adjusting my driving style to suit a body and I don't touch the settings UNLESS it makes a hell of a difference in handling that you have no choice but to change setup.

[minijosh]

the Pro and the TRF are the same thing. I found a place over seas that sells them.

[minijosh]

I too have noticed a huge difference in the bodies. Our local track will not let you race without one. Their insurance will not cover your car.
I have tried a hpi Lotus, looks good but handles like poo in those high speed corners, Hpi Dodge stratus, I like it but won't fit on my SS, a Hpi F-150, looks really good but other racers hate it so I am a target, Tamiya Skyline Kure R34, not sure because my first shell and I bashed the crap out of it, my new Tamiya Audi TT, I love this thing and it is great all around the track, Frewer Nissan Silvia, not bad but second rc shell with a high riding TL01 so I rolled alot on those high speed corners.
These are just some of my shells. Why doesn't Tamiya make a Dodge Stratus or 300?

[RCAttack]

The Dodge Stratus is pretty cool, Alot of the guys use it where I race, I have one on my TL-01 at the moment & will be getting one for my 04 as soon as it arrives early next week I hope. I will be keeping the NSX body that comes with th 04 for show. I find the 350z is also a top body, Although I don't think it will fit the 04 with its foam bumper.

[jackhammer74]

I sometimes run a 300 only because of how it handles you can't deny the handling advantage with the stratus or the 300. I really hate to look like everybody else, but it works. Like TEM said for TCS you can only use Tamiya bodies, the best ones are the Modena, the NSX, and the R34 Skyline, I use the Skyline and the NSX. I just finished painting my NSX shell for the next TCS meet, I'll post a pick of it tonight.

[TEM]

I took a peek at the 414M2 forum. So TA04DriveHard, are you a drug dealer?

Anyways, what I want to know is if you can replace the 414M2 chassis with a 04R graphite tub to run in GT2; would it all fit? or what would you need to make it fit? Do the lightweight aluminium bulkheads for a 414 fit the 04R tub chassis?, How much weight differences between that and the stock plastic?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by TEM
I took a peek at the 414M2 forum. So TA04DriveHard, are you a drug dealer?

Anyways, what I want to know is if you can replace the 414M2 chassis with a 04R graphite tub to run in GT2; would it all fit? or what would you need to make it fit? Do the lightweight aluminium bulkheads for a 414 fit the 04R tub chassis?, How much weight differences between that and the stock plastic?

No, im not a drug dealer:rolleyes: :p

No, neither chassis nor bulkheads are compatible with the 04... the only things that are compatible are the suspension arms, rear hub, front hub, steering knuckles... even the tranny except the center shaft... i made a duplicate steering of the 414 on my 04-trf... but like said i tried myself in hopes to make a real nice car...

ted

[Tamiya4eva]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Hey archerboi... done that already... hehe:D

On that new chassis with the SSG towers, would you be able to mount the body posts on them, cause my stock Skyline body would fit fine if you could.

This was Archerboi :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya the body post will fit;)

[Tamiya4eva]

Oh thats great. I can start saving for it then. My TA03 is almost done, then my TXT-1 :D

[RCAttack]

My 04-R arrived yesterday :p :p :p :p , very impressed with the whole kit, especially the dampers, WOW, how smooooth are they.

Painting the body today & will post some pics when finished.

Cheers

[mr_eagle]

hey

Does anyone know if the lightweight carbon lower deck and the rear lightweight universal on the front, TCS legal for GT2 the stock racing one. I need to know asap my TCS race is on Augest 3rd.

[TRF Drive Hard]

GT-2
1. All Tamiya TA, TB and TL series sedan chassis’ (TA01, TA02, TA03, TA04, TL01, TB01 (Tub chassis), FF01, FF02).
2. Tub chassis only, no carbon plate double deck chassis’ allowed.
3. Tamiya Hop-Ops allowed, no chassis lightening allowed.
4. Any ROAR legal 24-dgree stock motor or kit type closed-endbell, silver can motor only. Rebuildable 27 turn 24 degree stock ROAR motors are also legal for this class.
5. Tamiya rubber tires only, no foam tires.
6. Any tire insert may be used.
7. Changing the camber positions on the car other than the way it was intended is not allowed. I.E. Cutting the front hub carrier to accommodate different camber angles is not legal.
8. Camber links must be positioned in the mounting holes that they were originally drilled for. Drilling new camber link holes is not legal.


Seems like you cannot do what you mentioned...

[TEM]

You can use any TUB chassis in GT2. If it's a carbon fiber sheet, then NO.

You don't want to be using the lightweight universals in the front. They will bend/break very very very easily!

National title winning hopups over the standard R kit: lightweight outdrives(rear), lightweight universals(rear), front oneway, center one-way(but it's not noticable by normal humans), graphite arms. Those are the majors. Get aluminium hex hubs cause the plastic ones wear and scrub the bearing. Ti stuff would help(but not for most of us). Springs, swaybars, oils; other mandatory stuff adjust to preference and track condition.

Any questions?

[RCAttack]

I have given my 04-R about 5 runs & about half of the rear belt has nearly worn through on the 'back', It doesn't appear to be rubbing on anything & I have found no pebbles around the diff area that could have worn it. Any ideas anyone

Cheers

[TEM]

I've seen this happen to 3 of these cars. We all suspect its the little bearing inside the gearbox. There is 1 self taping screw that holds the bearing off the innerside of the bulkhead. It is questionable whether or not it sits true. A slight angle will make the bearing rub on the belt in an angled way that is not good!.... I 'd say take it out.. it's not even that necessary...

[RCAttack]

It has happened reasonably quick, so I have turned the belt around & taken the questionable bearing & screw out, I will let you know if that is the culprat.

Cheers Brad

[RCAttack]

Yep, That bearing was the cause, thanks, leaving it out doesn't seem to make any difference.

[dlevitas]

I recently purchased the new Lightweight Carbon (Tub- Part: 53494) chassis for my ta04 pro but after i purchased it i thought saddle pack (52001) or the other carbon chassis (53466) could be lighter.

Does anyone know the weight differences of these parts?
I know the tub chassis weights 100 grams, but what about others...

Thanks.

[jackhammer74]

I'm not sure about the weight difference between those three, but it's not much if any, and actually if you talk to people that have used both types, they generally prefer the lightweight carbon tub, it handles better, and it makes the car more rigid.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Its too bad that tamiya didnt make a molded carbon of the saddle pack, i bet that would be awesome... ive used the saddle pack chassis and its ok... but i think the saddle is light than the molded carbon...

[TEM]

If you're looking for a weight advantage, I don't think it's worth it to change over. Different configurations work for different people so consider that. Saddle config works better for me but I have to run the side by side since only tub chassis is legal for GT2. Still don't got the full hang of it.....

[minijosh]

i am getting ready to sell my full SSG carbon fiber set. upper deck, lower deck, front and rear dampner stays. this can only be used in the GT1 series and I suck at racing so I will stay stock. I will throw this in the for sale area unless on of you guys want it. you need the battery section from the TA04-Pro to keep you batteries in it.

[TRF Drive Hard]

You should keep it... just in case you might need it... hehe i have xtras myself too:D

[mr_eagle]

I'm thinking of getting a hudy ultimate set-up system, will it fit the TA04 and is worth getting or is there a better one for the TA04?

[TEM]

minijosh; how much you getting rid of the ssg for?(curious) And doesn't it hold saddle packs?

mr_eagle; the hudy will fit the TA04. Actually most setup systems for 1/10th will fit. There isn't a better system if you ask me; in fact, I believe the system is too good for the TA04! It helps a lot to have a setup system. However, with the slop in the TA04, you can make do with a crappier system and it won't make much difference!

[TRF Drive Hard]

The ssg for the 04 holds stick... the ssg for the 414 can hold saddle;) i wish the 04 had that version...

[minijosh]

the only way it will hold the sticks in is either with tape or the ta04-pro J tree which is hard to find for me for some reason.

[minijosh]

oh the price, i paid 90 bucks for the whole kit on ebay. how much did u pay drivehard?

[jackhammer74]

Originally posted by mr_eagle
I'm thinking of getting a hudy ultimate set-up system, will it fit the TA04 and is worth getting or is there a better one for the TA04?

I have one myself and it's awesome, you'll find other ones, but you won't find a better one, like TEM said though, it's almost too good for the 04, cause of the slop.

I got lucky and picked mine up minus the setup board gently used for $50:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by minijosh
oh the price, i paid 90 bucks for the whole kit on ebay. how much did u pay drivehard?

I paid 80 bucks on eBay:D

[jackhammer74]

A couple of race weekends ago I was talking with one of the fast guys at my track, we were discussing setups and what not, I complemented him on how hooked up his car was, he told me that he was trying something new, something he'd seen the fast guys at RCO in PA. do with the TA04. He was running white springs in the back and yellow upfront, the best guess he could give me for shock fluid was 60w upfront and 40w rear, it seemed to mee whites would be too stiff in the rear, but he said it works and actually like I said, I saw it work. Has anybody else seen this or tried it?

[RCAttack]

My 04 seems abit backwards too. At my local track my car dials in best with the rear abit stiffer than the front, although I use yellow springs all round, sway bars front & rear, If I run the front stiffer I get understeer even with no toe in. Oil is 50 rear 40 front & the ball diffs are as loose as I can get them without slipping. I dunno why, but it works.

[KoE]

just a small query tho.. are 04ss arms different (shorter ?) than the other 04 variants?

[TRF Drive Hard]

The SS arms change the wheelbase of the car... thus a short version of the 04... with this change in wheelbase, the chassis alone in not touched... this gives the wheelbase i believe 10mm difference...

[KoE]

thanks drive hard :D another equally good explaination is in page 23. outta searched better next time but the forum is huge!

[TRF Drive Hard]

:D

[RCAttack]

No post in a week, Where is everyone :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Too busy working on their 04s:D like me:D

[minijosh]

my 04-ss is perfect so i don't have to work on it. my problem is that i am at work too much to notice if it needs work.

[TEM]

TA03; What more can you do to your cars??? You don't race your shelf queens, and they all have the best of everything on them. SSG, Ti, colored AL, you name it... Let me guess; you've got a knack for gold or diamond parts now?

minijosh; do you race your SS? What I found is that the TA04 needs a lot of little tweaks here and there ALL the time to stay consistent. And I was also told by the best of racers that it is the nature of that car. It's never finished setting up.. It's not like a TC3 where you can set it up perfect based on a setup you get off the net, spend a few packs tuning and make the A main everytime without having to change anything. That actually gets boring. Something in between would be nice......

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by TEM
TA03; What more can you do to your cars??? You don't race your shelf queens, and they all have the best of everything on them. SSG, Ti, colored AL, you name it... Let me guess; you've got a knack for gold or diamond parts now?

Well as a matter of fact i do race 2 ta04... the 04r and the 04trf... i have 2 other trf's... one of course is the shelf queen and the other waiting to be built... the 04r i race occasionally.... but the 04trf i race most... its tuned constantly... so this way i stay on top... besides, i know this car very well not to give me any problems...;)

btw, i hate gold... diamonds on the otherhand wouldnt look cool on an rc... im not bling bling like that... just good o ti parts and aluminum... and ssg is good enough...:cool:

ted

[kameleonmn]

I'm lookin at gettin a Ta04r or the Ta04 special chassis kit...I've found the special for around 250...and ebay has the 04r for 230...wouldn't be better to just pitch in 30 more bucks and get the special...towerhobbies have the o4r at 269 and the special at around 379 or so...pricey...if anybody can give me a link to these kits at a softer price i'd appreciate it...my bro has a David Jun edition Ta03f that handles like a charm at our track...so now i've sold my HPI Pro3 and getting a 04. Well, I'm out.:) :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Id say pick up the ssg kit on ebay...

[minijosh]

I have the SSG kit if you wanna buy it off of me for 90 bucks plus shipping. I have opened the packages and applied the super glue all around the outside so it doesn't splinter.
When I race my 04, I try to avoid those things called walls and other race cars so I don't have to adjust my a lot. Sure I will take it back to the pits to tighten screws but my friend has the complete Hudy set up and hooked my up from the get go and it still is true to the settings. See it does pay not to hit things. I don't like to play touring car pinball.

[kameleonmn]

minijosh..what is the condition of your ssg kit?...is it still new but just opened...or is it used?...let me know or email me...thanx.

[minijosh]

ygm K

[kameleonmn]

Yea...I'll probably just get the one from ebay...its 252 plus 30 shipping...from hong kong. Does anyone know the driving characteristics of molded composite versus the SSG plates?...All i know is this will be my first Tamiya racer...Hope my season goes well...OUT.

[TEM]

I haven't driven with the SSG, but I have with the CF chassis(s), and the molded graphite tub. I found a little more agressive steering with the saddle chassis. The graphite tub with the battery cutouts will have a lower CG(therefore less roll) than the normal SSG or CF plate. I don't know why the heck did tamiya come up with that design, kind of stupid.

[cobra81li200]

Because in Japan the most popular category uses stick packs and 19T motors, and the main market of Tamiya (where they sell more than 60 % of their production) is... Japan.

[kameleonmn]

Well, just wondering if there are any other people out there that knows where to get the SSG kit besides on ebay...i'm lookin to get either the SSG or the TA04r...well, hopefully there are any out there that are fairly reliable...out.

[TheoDR]

My TA04 at present... trying to cut off some weight. Tamiya doesn't seem to have the complete titanium screw set for it? Only a few sizes here and there. :(

http://home.ps.com.sg/~lightz/Theo/2F2F%20Skyline%20GTR%20wallpaper.jpg

[TEM]

Tamiya Ti screws comes in small packages. And are pretty expensive if you want to make your car TCS legal. The quickest way to shed some weight is to replace the diff outdrives with the lightweight ones; front and rear. Or rear only and replace the front with a oneway. You can get lightweight oneway outdrives but there isn't a significant weight savings there but consider it if you want to go all out. Replace the rear(rear only!) universals with the lightweight ones. Why do you want to run a failsafe? Quite a few grams right there!

I think it was you that asked about your car being slow.... I noticed from your list of stuff that you are using a reversing speedo; well dial out the reverse and redo your whole motor!

And in addition to your speed problem; taking off an oz or two is not going to solve your problem. If you know what you are doing; the stock stuff(plus springs, gears, tires, and perhaps a oneway(s)) is good enough to put you in the A-main at most club races.

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TEM
Tamiya Ti screws comes in small packages. And are pretty expensive if you want to make your car TCS legal. The quickest way to shed some weight is to replace the diff outdrives with the lightweight ones; front and rear. Or rear only and replace the front with a oneway. You can get lightweight oneway outdrives but there isn't a significant weight savings there but consider it if you want to go all out. Replace the rear(rear only!) universals with the lightweight ones. Why do you want to run a failsafe? Quite a few grams right there!

I think it was you that asked about your car being slow.... I noticed from your list of stuff that you are using a reversing speedo; well dial out the reverse and redo your whole motor!

And in addition to your speed problem; taking off an oz or two is not going to solve your problem. If you know what you are doing; the stock stuff(plus springs, gears, tires, and perhaps a oneway(s)) is good enough to put you in the A-main at most club races. Hey, thanks! :D

Hmm, I did see the lightweight diff outdrives but the plastic material didn't give me much confidence. Haha, anyway, I think I'll still get them when I get my salary.

Why do you say to replace only the rear universals with lightweight ones? Currently using the dogbones (modded the 04 up from a 04S, cost me quite a bomb to do that but well worth it) and the front gives a lot of chatter when turning. Tamiya has a set of black unassembled universals that can fit the TA04 and TL01, will be getting those too.

I've to run a failsafe cus I've been experiencing a lot of interference in my neighbourhood. Was once running the car at full speed (stock silver can) when it suddenly veered to one side and almost hit the kerb. Managed to bring it back under control in time. Whew! :eek:

Also noticed that my Orion RUSH 13 turn magnets are even weaker than the Kawada 23 turn that I also have. What gives? I'd say the motor is great with the ball bearings etc, but with weak magnets???

Will be cleaning out my old Integy 11 turn (from 4-5 years ago back when I had a TA02W), replacing the brushes and popping it in the 04. *drools* The magnets still feel very powerful. *grins*

The car currently uses 2 ball diffs. Front spring is white(super stiff), rear is blue (stiff), using 50wt oil. Running the car on parking lot.

[TheoDR]

The prob I face right now is that the car crawls for the first 5 minutes. After that (I assume the motor has warmed up), the car then begins to go faster. What gives? :confused: There isn't any drag in the drivetrain too.. :( And I don't think its the ESC problem cus I could squeeze every bit out of the stock silver can motor from the start.

[TRI-TURBO]

Are You Using The Same Gearing You Ran With Silver Can Motor, For The 11T Motor??

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TRI-TURBO
Are You Using The Same Gearing You Ran With Silver Can Motor, For The 11T Motor?? Using the 13 turn and having problems.. the gearing is at 37T pinion and 128T spur.

[TRI-TURBO]

hum ..I would Say that you are over geared. Im runing 38 Pinoin and 128Spur, but that is for my Stock 27turn motor

so my guess is that its over geared , maby try gearing it down 5t or so if you havn't yet

you should see a big increase in the car's acleration but the top speed won't be as high

btw what knid of run times are you getting with that gearing??

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TRI-TURBO
hum ..I would Say that you are over geared. Im runing 38 Pinoin and 128Spur, but that is for my Stock 27turn motor

so my guess is that its over geared , maby try gearing it down 5t or so if you havn't yet

you should see a big increase in the car's acleration but the top speed won't be as high

btw what knid of run times are you getting with that gearing?? Getting about 15-20mins with that gearing. The wierd thing is that I tried 34/128 gearing too, its even slower, top speed just isn't there. :(

[TEM]

What do you mean by the front chattering? The stock TA04R has the black universals. But keep the front ones stock(they are heavier but are much stronger), but replace the rears with lightweight blue ones.

You are gear WAAAAY too high. If you are sure your motor is good, and batts, esc are good and drive train is good but the car is slow; I'm suspecting your diffs are slipping! Check your diffs for slipperage. Grasp both rear wheels, turn the spur with your right thumb; if it slips, your diff is too loose. Now hold the front wheels, and tug the belt. It should not slip at all. But when you turn the one wheel, it should feel smooth as the opposite wheel turns the other direction. And if your diffs ARE slipping, and you've been spinning the heck out of them; get a rebuild kit of rings and balls.....

As for magnet strength; what are you checking them with? I doubt you really have an accurate way of checking though. Weaker magnets actually give higher RPM while strong magnets give more torque. You only need to worry about magnets if you accidently overheat the motor badly.

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TEM
What do you mean by the front chattering? The stock TA04R has the black universals. But keep the front ones stock(they are heavier but are much stronger), but replace the rears with lightweight blue ones.

You are gear WAAAAY too high. If you are sure your motor is good, and batts, esc are good and drive train is good but the car is slow; I'm suspecting your diffs are slipping! Check your diffs for slipperage. Grasp both rear wheels, turn the spur with your right thumb; if it slips, your diff is too loose. Now hold the front wheels, and tug the belt. It should not slip at all. But when you turn the one wheel, it should feel smooth as the opposite wheel turns the other direction. And if your diffs ARE slipping, and you've been spinning the heck out of them; get a rebuild kit of rings and balls.....

As for magnet strength; what are you checking them with? I doubt you really have an accurate way of checking though. Weaker magnets actually give higher RPM while strong magnets give more torque. You only need to worry about magnets if you accidently overheat the motor badly. Gee!! :eek: My 04 doesn't have any universals, was originally an 04S (just full bearings) Heh heh, I don't think I've an accurate way of checking the magnet strength..just going by feel. Still pretty much a noob when it comes to higher end equipment. :p My rear diff seems to be slipping. Even with both wheels locked, the spur can still turn. Jeez!

Hmm...37/128 is too high? Think I'll switch to 34/128 then. But can anyone explain why the car crawls for the first 5 mins and then full speed after that? :confused:

[RCAttack]

Does anyone use these? Are they strong enough to handle the stress from a 9T double?

Cheers

[TEM]

So the diff is the culprit eh?..... There ya go...


As for the lightweight outdrives; yes they are strong. Stronger than most people think. I've seen people hit so hard; bent the universal and break the lower arm; outdrives still ok. However, upgrades like this I suggest you save till you get your car handling perfectly.

A slow car that handles good beats a fast but poor handling car 99% of the time!

[RCAttack]

I wish my car handled perfectly, but I don't think any car does, no matter what it is. There is always something that can be improved otherwise we wouldn't have to slow down for corners.

I try to make my ride efficient as possible, but it all takes time & money, something most of us don't have alot of (Drive Hard excepted.lol).

I find things like the 0.4 module gears & universal drives shafts do alot to get the power down & make things nice & smoooth. It all comes down to how many $$$ you want to put into your car.

Anyway enough garble time to lay down a few laps.

Cheers

[KoE]

i'm just wondering what are down-stop and up-stop as mentioned in the hudy's set up guide.

another thing is that the manual mentions something like "down-stop front: ... measure the distance from the surface to the bottom part of the steering block.." and for the down-stop "...measure the distance from the surface to the bottom part of the up right"

what is "surface" referred to anyway? or could i just skip this portion and go straight into the other setups like toe and camber etc? :confused:

[TEM]

I think you know what I was implying when I said "perfect". It's making the best of the situation with what you got. But mind you it is mandatory to have the right springs, oil, swaybars, etc for setting purposes. And those are essential basics for a good handling car. This is not where the big bucks come in yet, those are things you need and should account for. You CAN be relatively slow; but the car should handle and drive great.

But what about the money; titainium, aluminium, carbonfiber, blah, blah, blah (yeah, mostly the things TA03DH has). Small savings in weight do improve handling somewhat but not and never as significant as simply having the right spring combination! You can go all out and spend megabucks, but unless you have the tuning skills, your car will not come close to someone who only has the stuff listed in the first paragraph.

Whats interesting is if you look closely at the kind of trouble racers face; both here on the board and at the track. EX. TheoDR here is going slow cause his diff is slipping, and if you read above and beyond, you'll find questions like how much droop to start with, what springs work where, what gearing to use. A lot of time is people who has stuff but don't know how to use it right.

Money helps but often it's not as simple as that. Ever been taken down by someone with lesser stuff than you?

And to good handling?, We could go a LITTLE faster if the cars did handle better. But if cars went much faster we couldn't drive them too good. I mean assuming you car can take a corner at full speed; do you think you can steer so fast to stay clean? I sure as hell couldn't. The "line" we drive is theoretically the fastest route so we try to take it the best we can. Even with the best grip, most of us won't likely steer fast enough to stay on it. You know, Pro10 cars died cause they were too fast to drive for most people!

[TRF Drive Hard]

I noticed my name being mentioned twice here already... are you guys bashing me for dropping bills into my car(s)?:D seriously though, im not as rich as you all think;)

[minijosh]

I have blown away many opponents with tc3's, xxx-s's, and pro 3's with my stock SS. It is the luck of the draw everytime you race. Who knows that person next to you has their car set up the best but opps, into the wall and they cannot recover because they are upset.

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TEM
So the diff is the culprit eh?..... There ya go...


As for the lightweight outdrives; yes they are strong. Stronger than most people think. I've seen people hit so hard; bent the universal and break the lower arm; outdrives still ok. However, upgrades like this I suggest you save till you get your car handling perfectly.

A slow car that handles good beats a fast but poor handling car 99% of the time! The lightweight outdrives are the white plastic ones that fit to the diff? Heh, pardon me, cus I'm getting a lil' confused. :p

I reinstalled the stock silver can on the 04, wil test it out later to see if I still have the problem. I think I overdid the greasing and oiling on the diffs the last time. :o

[TheoDR]

What's a good setup for the 04? If say I've the on-road tuned springs and using 50wt oil? How about shock spacers, what part number to use? Am using the Low Friction Shock, not the TRF adjustable one.

Equipment currently on hand: 13 turn motor, stock silver can, 34, 37, 40, 44T pinions, 112, 120 and 128T spurs.

Tyres: normal rubber...

Gonna run on an unswept parking lot.

[TheoDR]

What upgrades have the most bang for buck? Other than the Racing Hub Carriers and carbon chassis?

[TRI-TURBO]

Do you have the aluminum motor heat sink?? If not its a pretty good investment to look into


In other news I just ran my TA04-R in the Canadian TCS Finials, I was doing fine untill my motor started to have problems and I DNF Twice :( but overall it was still fun , I'll try to post pics later.

[k_bojar]

Anyone know of a decent starting gear ratio for a 9 single?? in a TA04R??

Starting to run the big power and cant seem to find a comfy gear ratio

[RCAttack]

When i'm running my 9turn I use a ratio of 7.19:1 ie 38t pinion & 128 spur. I can run a ratio of 6.1:1 without the motor getting too hot. I have even run 5.9:1 cooling the motor with a couple of ice cubes before starting.

Cheers Brad

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TRI-TURBO
Do you have the aluminum motor heat sink?? If not its a pretty good investment to look into


In other news I just ran my TA04-R in the Canadian TCS Finials, I was doing fine untill my motor started to have problems and I DNF Twice :( but overall it was still fun , I'll try to post pics later. Yup, got it about 3 weeks ago. :D Haven't raced before..wonder if I should, but I'd have to get the fast charger and a few more batt packs... :eek:

[TheoDR]

Can anyone please tell me what's the part number for:

TA04 Universal shafts (lightweight if possible)
Racing Aluminum Spur Gear Hub (blue anodized)

Thanks! :D

[TRI-TURBO]

TA04 Universal shafts (lightweight if possible) = 53502
http://www.digitalplus.nl/pics/tamoptions/53502.jpg

Racing Aluminum Spur Gear Hub (blue anodized)= 53614
http://www.digitalplus.nl/pics/tamoptions/53614.jpg

[monyet fangkeh]

can u use side by side batt in ta04r? im thinking getting some match batt but build stick pack batt is kinda hard. so im thinking making it to side by side batt. but i dont wanna to solder everytime i put the batt and desolder the batt if i want to take it out. i want to use the batt tube thingy( dunno how to say it:confused: ) do u think i can use it? or i have to change the chassis.

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TRI-TURBO
TA04 Universal shafts (lightweight if possible) = 53502
http://www.digitalplus.nl/pics/tamoptions/53502.jpg

Racing Aluminum Spur Gear Hub (blue anodized)= 53614
http://www.digitalplus.nl/pics/tamoptions/53614.jpg Woottt, thanks!! I just got the spur carrier and lightweight diff joint cups today. :D

Funny thing is, the instructions for the diff cups don't indicate that we've to fit in the metal diff plates as well.... Noticed that the ball bearings sink into the pulley without the plates, so I fixed them together with the rest of the assembly.

[TheoDR]

What hopups give the most bang-for-buck? Mabbe a list of say 1-10 (or more), with 1 being the best value? :D

[TRI-TURBO]

Well i don't know what you already have or what needs to be tuned on your car so heres a list of abunch of Tamiya parts in no perticular order that you may want to consider

TA04 Carbon Hard Rear Uprights
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53428.jpg

TA04 Aluminium Center One-Way Pulley
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53489.jpg

Aluminium Wheel Hubs, Normal 6mm
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53569.jpg

TRF Carbon Reinforced Front Upright Set
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53579.jpg

TA04 Light Weight Aluminium Steering Posts
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53594.jpg

Silver Surface Graphite Upper Deck
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53605.jpg

Silver Surface Graphite Lower Deck
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53606.jpg

Silver Surface Graphite Front Damper Stay
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53607.jpg

Silver Surface Graphite Rear Damper Stay
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53608.jpg

[TRI-TURBO]

...More stuff;)

TA04 Aluminium Front Suspension Block Set
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53609.jpg

TA04 Aluminium Rear Suspension Block Set
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53610.jpg

TA04 Aluminium Rear Suspension Block Set
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53611

TA04 Racing Front One-Way Unit
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53612.jpg

Front Aluminium Body Mount 60mm (2)
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53616.jpg

TRF Aluminium Fluorine Coated Damper Set (4)
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53571.jpg

Type-B Molded Slick Tires (> 25°) & 5-Spoke Wheel Set, 24mm Medium Narrow
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53412.jpg

Type-A Molded Slick Tires (< 25°),
24mm Medium Narrow
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53433.jpg

[jackhammer74]

Originally posted by monyet fangkeh
can u use side by side batt in ta04r? im thinking getting some match batt but build stick pack batt is kinda hard. so im thinking making it to side by side batt. but i dont wanna to solder everytime i put the batt and desolder the batt if i want to take it out. i want to use the batt tube thingy( dunno how to say it:confused: ) do u think i can use it? or i have to change the chassis.

build some side by side packs and put some deans on them, like this

[jackhammer74]

They'll fit just fine

[TEM]

I don't mean to knock you, but most those hopups don't even come close to being bang for the buck or help much with handling, etc.

Based on a TA04R(cause there is no sense in upgrading anything lower). First thing; get tires for the surface you run on. Then get a set of tuned springs(4 colors). The stock sway bars actually work pretty good. But if your driving style and tuning preferences differ; get sway bars. And I am assuming you already got setup stuff and differ shock oil weights. I'm also assuming you got various pinions and spurs; good motor and batts.

Oneways will also fall in the driving preference category. Cause not everyone drives good with them and if you're racing on dirty or poor traction surfaces, it can do more harm than good.

Carbon fiber shock towers are debatable(refer to a few more pages above). Again, not big on performance or handling. Especially on this car. The carbon or SSG chassis that accept stick packs(non saddle type) is useless. It's not as stiff as you think and the CG is higher than the carbon tub with the cut outs! The slotted saddle chassis(414 type) is good but dependent on class and driving style. Thumbs up for mod though.

Flouring coated shocks?, if you already got threaded trf shocks; these flourine coated ones won't make you faster or handle better.

The suspension block set should reduce some slop development but I haven't it significant on the O4. But the arms do develop a little slop in the shaft that runs through them and the blocks. Would be nice to go with hard arms. And front carriers.

Lightweight outdrives and lightweight universals(rear only) saves lots of weight, and rotating mass.

Now having said that; if you want eye candy and can afford it(does TA03 Drive Hard ring any bells?).. go nuts...

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by TEM
Now having said that; if you want eye candy and can afford it(does TA03 Drive Hard ring any bells?).. go nuts...

:D

[TheoDR]

I started modding the chassis from a TA04S base, it had only full bearings.

So far, I've fixed on these:
Racing hub carrier
Carbon upper n lower deck, shock towers
Low friction shocks + tuned springs (blue rear, white front)
Racing spur hub (blue anod), smaller diameter than the un-anod one, so it shld be lighter
Turnbuckles
Hi-torque servo saver
Lightweight diff joint at rear (not enuff money to get a pair for the front)
Alu motor heat sink

Future hopups would be a pair of lightweight diff joints and universal shafts.

What does the Center One Way pulley do? Any significant change in performance?

[monyet fangkeh]

Originally posted by jackhammer74
build some side by side packs and put some deans on them, like this thanks bro...:D.

TEM
why do u suggest to u sing the lightweight outdrives and the lightweight unversal on the rear only? wouldn't it be better if u have that in the front aswell?

[TheoDR]

Just realised how big a hole I burnt in my pocket..haha!!!

53466 TA04 Carbon Lower Deck
53465 TA04 Carbon Upper Deck
53461 TA04 Carbon Damper Stay (Rear)
53460 TA04 Carbon Damper Stay (Front)
53280 TA03 Super Low Friction Damper Set
53440 On-road Tuned Hard Spring Set
53463 TA04 Low Friction Belt (Front)
53464 TA04 Low Friction Belt (Rear)
53458 TA04 Racing Hub Carrier Set
53527 3*32mm Titanium Turnbuckle Shafts (2 pcs), used with Racing Hub Carrier Set
53456 TA04 Turnbuckle Upper Arm Set
53457 TA04 Turnbuckle Tie-Rod Set
53437 TA04 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink
53614 TA04 Racing Spur Holder Set (blue anodized, smaller diameter)
53436 TA04 Ball Differential Set
53480 TA04 Lightweight Diff Joint Set
50473 Hi Torque Servo Saver

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TEM
You can use any TUB chassis in GT2. If it's a carbon fiber sheet, then NO.

You don't want to be using the lightweight universals in the front. They will bend/break very very very easily!

National title winning hopups over the standard R kit: lightweight outdrives(rear), lightweight universals(rear), front oneway, center one-way(but it's not noticable by normal humans), graphite arms. Those are the majors. Get aluminium hex hubs cause the plastic ones wear and scrub the bearing. Ti stuff would help(but not for most of us). Springs, swaybars, oils; other mandatory stuff adjust to preference and track condition.

Any questions? monyet fangkeh, here's why! :D

[TheoDR]

Oh, is it better to just get the hard rear uprights or the toe-in rear uprights? Both are made of the same material right?

[TheoDR]

Another question...what's a good gearing for a 13 turn?

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by TRI-TURBO
Well i don't know what you already have or what needs to be tuned on your car so heres a list of abunch of Tamiya parts in no perticular order that you may want to consider

TA04 Carbon Hard Rear Uprights
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53428.jpg


The only "problem" with these parts is the the are 0 degree toe-in...THe 04R comes with 2 degree toe-in for the rear so adding this part to that chassis will actually effect the handling in a "bad" way

Originally posted by TRI-TURBO
why do u suggest to u sing the lightweight outdrives and the lightweight unversal on the rear only? wouldn't it be better if u have that in the front aswell?

I would personally suggest buying a set of light-weight out drives for both the front and rear...The weight savings from these parts for unbelievable...A diff assembled with the LW outdrives weight about 1/2 was a stock ball diff weights :):D and that equals BIG reduction in rotating mass :D:) I dont know about the universals - I'm still using the stock ones...the only advantage to running the LW ones in the rear is that the kit ones are "stronger" and more resistent to bending than the LW ones...So running the Kit ones in front would be more durable

[TEM]

You can get hard 2degree toe in rear uprights. I don't have the part number but your LHS can for sure get them.

As for the outdrives; yes, use lightweights on rear for sure. Front yes, if you run a diff. The oneway has it's own outdrives; thats what I meant. But universals, use lightweights only on the rear cause front ones bend too easily. Since I race on high traction carpet and clean dry(most the time) asphalt; my setup is front oneway with stock universals; rear ball diff with lightweight outdrives and lightweight universals. The kit front ball diff I keep handy with lightweight outdrives already already installed. I keep that around for 2 reasons, quick repair incase I break the rear diff/outdrives; or if it gets real slippery out(wet), then I put it in the front. And mind you; changing from diff to oneway and vice versa, you also have to set your suspension setup differently....

Gearing for a 13t; I'd say if you had to ask that; you are probably not ready to run mod. Cause most guys beat the crap out of their mod motors and whatever gearing you give them the car is still slow and the motor still overheats. But assuming your motors are good and what you do is sane; outside; something like a 33/128. If the track is real long and wide; go up a teeth or two. On ozite; go a few teeth down.

And if the car is still real slow; check your diff for slipperage.. refer to above pages.

If you are new, and or just tuned'in to the TA04 forum, please take your time to read all the above pages. Almost everything is covered more than once. If you are still stuck, then feel free to ask. From newbies to diehard racers to people who we assume do illegitimate business(I think it's drug dealing, but TA04 Drive Hard can correct us on that one) that has ALL the different models with all the most expensive hopups..... yep, we are all here to help....


Sorry TA04DH.. I just couldn't help myself :p

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TEM
You can get hard 2degree toe in rear uprights. I don't have the part number but your LHS can for sure get them.

As for the outdrives; yes, use lightweights on rear for sure. Front yes, if you run a diff. The oneway has it's own outdrives; thats what I meant. But universals, use lightweights only on the rear cause front ones bend too easily. Since I race on high traction carpet and clean dry(most the time) asphalt; my setup is front oneway with stock universals; rear ball diff with lightweight outdrives and lightweight universals. The kit front ball diff I keep handy with lightweight outdrives already already installed. I keep that around for 2 reasons, quick repair incase I break the rear diff/outdrives; or if it gets real slippery out(wet), then I put it in the front. And mind you; changing from diff to oneway and vice versa, you also have to set your suspension setup differently....

Gearing for a 13t; I'd say if you had to ask that; you are probably not ready to run mod. Cause most guys beat the crap out of their mod motors and whatever gearing you give them the car is still slow and the motor still overheats. But assuming your motors are good and what you do is sane; outside; something like a 33/128. If the track is real long and wide; go up a teeth or two. On ozite; go a few teeth down.

And if the car is still real slow; check your diff for slipperage.. refer to above pages.

If you are new, and or just tuned'in to the TA04 forum, please take your time to read all the above pages. Almost everything is covered more than once. If you are still stuck, then feel free to ask. From newbies to diehard racers to people who we assume do illegitimate business(I think it's drug dealing, but TA04 Drive Hard can correct us on that one) that has ALL the different models with all the most expensive hopups..... yep, we are all here to help....


Sorry TA04DH.. I just couldn't help myself :p Haha! Thanks! I've a 34T pinion, so I'll pair that up with the 128T. Found that my front diff was starting to slip too and so I rebuilt and regreased it. :p :rolleyes:

Heh..I'm trying not to beat the crap out of my car..its quite an expensive thing to do!

Oh, is it advisable to stick with the stock outdrives for my front ball diff? Or to change to the lightweight ones?

[TEM]

the suggested gearing is a starting point. You might have to change it depending on the track setup. Lightweight outdrives always. It's just the universals that stay stock front and lightweight for the rear.

No, not beat the crap out of the car; I said beat the crap out of a motor....

BTW, most of these hopups and tuning parts are only good for racing. It's not going to make much difference off the track. Same with precise gearing.

[TRI-TURBO]

yesshhh with all those part you got you could have bought the R-Tuned 04. Do you have any pics of your car?? I saw the ones of your "Stratuspheric skyline" (pretty sweet) but just wondering if you have any of your 04:cool:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Yes... us drug dealers can get anything... im waiting on a shippment of R-Tuned 04s... if you want, meet me at the east shipping dock @ 12mid night... thats when it all goes down:D

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TEM
the suggested gearing is a starting point. You might have to change it depending on the track setup. Lightweight outdrives always. It's just the universals that stay stock front and lightweight for the rear.

No, not beat the crap out of the car; I said beat the crap out of a motor....

BTW, most of these hopups and tuning parts are only good for racing. It's not going to make much difference off the track. Same with precise gearing. I see! Thanks a lot for the tips! :D

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TRI-TURBO
yesshhh with all those part you got you could have bought the R-Tuned 04. Do you have any pics of your car?? I saw the ones of your "Stratuspheric skyline" (pretty sweet) but just wondering if you have any of your 04:cool: LOL!! Thanks for ur kind comments! :D I realised that I could've got the R-Tuned a wee bit too late.. :p I'm seriously wondering if I should get another 04..either the 04R or the TRF. There're quite a number of variants now, gonna be spoilt for choice! Here's pics of the chassis..not very well taken cus of the flash. :(

The wires are floating here cus I took the pics before I tied them down with zip ties.
http://pnavy.com/TheoDR/albums/album01/TA04_chassis.sized.jpg
http://pnavy.com/TheoDR/albums/album01/TA04_chassis_and_body.sized.jpg

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Yes... us drug dealers can get anything... im waiting on a shippment of R-Tuned 04s... if you want, meet me at the east shipping dock @ 12mid night... thats when it all goes down:D Are those kits are sold cheaper in Japan than elsewhere?

[TheoDR]

Droolsome!!
TA04 TRF
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/49278ta04trf/top.jpg

TA04 R-Tuned
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/49297ta04r_tuned/top.jpg

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by TheoDR
Are those kits are sold cheaper in Japan than elsewhere?

Depends on the seller...

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by TheoDR
Droolsome!!
TA04 TRF
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/49278ta04trf/top.jpg

TA04 R-Tuned
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/49297ta04r_tuned/top.jpg

I have 3 trf kits already...:D but im waiting for my supplier to stock the r-tuned...;)

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
I have 3 trf kits already...:D but im waiting for my supplier to stock the r-tuned...;) *cough cough* :eek:

[TEM]

TA03DH, Just curious, what real cars do you own? Or can I just assume you've got what your average big time drug lord has?

But still; you've got to be pretty filthy rich for your wife(assumed)'(or wives)-(also assumed due to my previous accusations and assumptions), lets you get away with all these RC cars!

And for kits being cheaper in Japan. Basically kits are cheaper over in a lot of countries in Asia; Japan, Hong Kong, Korea. Mail order works good if you are working with good people. Shipping is worthwhile when you get large shipments. But you also have a small communication barrier to deal with. Find an asian friend that is taking a trip to Hong Kong or something would be your safest bet. Or atleast have him/her talk to the shop you want to deal with. Now back to pricing; street price for like a TA04R is just under 190US. And hopups are usually slightly cheaper than what it says on the package. (tamiya stuff have a japanese yen suggested retail value marked on them). And that is a lot cheaper most the time.

[TheoDR]

I just got another pair of the LW diff joints and a pair of the universals. Gonna get the second pair of unis in a day or two (didn't have enuff for them yet). Sent my armature to the shop to cut the comm, so I'm using the stock silver can for the time being. Will be running the car later! :D Fixed the universals up front cus the stock dogbones were chattering when steering. :eek:

For those who want to know, the universal's part number is:

Assembly Universal Shaft (TA04/TL-01) 53615

Hmm..my girlfriend does have quite some contacts in HK and Japan. I wonder if I might be able to get them cheaper than in Singapore. *ponders*

[TheoDR]

The racing spur holder I bought seems to be giving side-to-side motion problems. Changed the rubber O-ring but still gives the same result. The problem doesn't lie with the spur gear cus when I switched back to the stock plastic holder, the side-to-side motion is gone. Do you guys think the aluminum itself is warped? I'm currently using back the stock plastic holder, together with the carbon support plate. The plastic does seem to be lighter than the alu one though..

[TEM]

Make sure you are not waaaaaayy overtightening the nut at the end of the top shaft. That can cause the adaptor to go wobbly. Checking your spur holder is easy; take the spur off; hold the chassis down securely. Put a ball point pen on top of something and hold it down with your hand and have the tip pointed at the spur holder's edge or surface so it's barely touching. Then pull the belt or turn the spur holder to see if there are any high spots.

Most of us don't have sided to side problem but rather not being able to exactly center the spur. It's easy to see when you are meshing. You think it's perfect and you turn the spur to find that it's either too tight or too loose on the opposite side....

Do you guys noticed TA04DH using the word "supplier".

:eek:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Did i say that?:D i prooly meant contact:p but then again...

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TEM
Make sure you are not waaaaaayy overtightening the nut at the end of the top shaft. That can cause the adaptor to go wobbly. Checking your spur holder is easy; take the spur off; hold the chassis down securely. Put a ball point pen on top of something and hold it down with your hand and have the tip pointed at the spur holder's edge or surface so it's barely touching. Then pull the belt or turn the spur holder to see if there are any high spots.

Most of us don't have sided to side problem but rather not being able to exactly center the spur. It's easy to see when you are meshing. You think it's perfect and you turn the spur to find that it's either too tight or too loose on the opposite side....

Do you guys noticed TA04DH using the word "supplier".

:eek: Woottt, icic! Gonna try that soon after my dinner! :D Wanted to get the second pair of unis today but the shop seems to have either misplaced it or sold away the ones I reserved. :mad: Gonna have to wait till Friday. *impatient* :p

[TheoDR]

I've adjusted the holder, its much better now..have to play around with the washer. :o

For a carpark with dusty surface, what ride height should I use? Shocks using 50wt oil, front white n rear blue springs. Current clearance is 7mm front, 6.5mm rear when loaded.

[minijosh]

I just found a on road track near my house. How lucky of me right. It is outside and pure asphalt so I need some good slicks. I said before that I didn't have to tune my car because she was running perfect, well while I was steering, my steering link came off. Opps, loose screws hehe. I pulled another 26 laps with the big boys. I need a monster stock motor. Indoor carpet racing using stock gear 83 tooth with a 27 tooth pinion. Tamiya of course and I am using a old Trinity Paradox motor. Time for that monster stock to come in the mail I hope. I have wonderful take off speed but when I hit the straight, I peak at not even 1/4 the way thru and I pass people at first and then they pass me half way thru. I took off the belt tensioner because it was too binding hehe. I just put ball diffs in the rear. What good is that going to do me? I am still running the Audi shell. It sticks like glue to the tracks. My friends TL01, which use to be mine, with a 23 tooth pinion and a hell fire stock motor passes me in the straight. Kind of embarressing!!!

[TA04PRO]

wassup guys
i was wondering if anyone got this part
and is it any useful?
how much do they cost?
can it fit on a TA04 PRO?

[TEM]

Minijosh, your gearing is close(if not too high) if you have a REAL torquey motor(yeah, like the old paradoxes). I'd actually gear down unless the track we are speaking of is real long and open. When you get a monster, you might need to go down 3 teeth or more! The ball diffs will give you much smoother steering action and more speed. What scares me is your friend faster than you with a TL-01... something might be wrong with your car!.. check it out competely! He's not the guy with a double deck carbon fiber TL-01 is he?


TA04PRO, check price for that at towerhobbies dot com or something. Those aren't cheap! They do fit the pro. And as for them being useful?, That depends on how good of a racer you currently are. We basically only put them on the rear cause they will damage in the front easily. These are lighter than the stock unit, so it makes your car a little bit lighter and have less rotating mass. This means a faster car. But mind you, faster is only faster if it handles right, and you handle it right....

If you want to know how much weight they save, ask TA04DH to put the universals on one of his scales. It should read accurate to .0001grams. And don't argue, just pay the man if you know whats good for you!

Like always, I have to bash TA03DH somewhere in my post, not because I have anything against him, but just consider me some jerk, a very jealous one!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well, if you guys are really interested... there is a set of ti axles and drfive shafts... i would say those are the best upgrades made for the evo3 which fit the 414m2 also... but can also fit the 04... just omit the bushing or o-ring inside the drive cup... so far i have replaced the axles on my 04-trf and the cvds on my 414m2... they are lightweight and strong like stock steel;)

btw, they are not CHEAP!!!

[TheoDR]

Hello guys! Ah...I went to the r/c shop again today, my universals aren't in yet, gotta wait till tmrw. *impatient* I suspect my batteries may have given up on me. Reason being is that my car still crawls for the first 5 mins, subsequently it increases to top speed. I know I'm not overgearing (I hope!) my motor cus I used 34/128 on the 13 turn. Recently sent the armature for cutting and reinstalled the silver can with 40/120 gearing. Same problem persists. And I don't think my ball diffs are slipping. I guess this means I'll have to invest in a new set of batteries... Gonna borrow a pack from my friend to see if my batt pack is the root of the problem. *sigh*

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Well, if you guys are really interested... there is a set of ti axles and drfive shafts... i would say those are the best upgrades made for the evo3 which fit the 414m2 also... but can also fit the 04... just omit the bushing or o-ring inside the drive cup... so far i have replaced the axles on my 04-trf and the cvds on my 414m2... they are lightweight and strong like stock steel;)

btw, they are not CHEAP!!! Ermm..just how much damage do the titanium axles do to the wallet?

[TRF Drive Hard]

About 33USD a pair! the axles and shafts are sold in pairs separately...

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
About 33USD a pair! the axles and shafts are sold in pairs separately... :eek: Ouch....

[minijosh]

Hey TheoDR, would that pinion/spur be good for a stock motor? You said my 83 tooth and 27 pinion were too steep. So should I get a large spur or smaller pinion? I have a 19,21, and 23 for my TL01 and I am sure they will fit. I also have the stock 25. That is what I normally run.

[TRI-TURBO]

As promised as before here is a pic from the Canadian TCS Finals!! My car is dead center of all the others in the pic. Its the Silver Mercedes-Benz CLK-GTR:cool:
http://www.******.net/media/Racers.jpg

Btw i was runnning a TA04-R in the GT2 Stock class:p

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by minijosh
Hey TheoDR, would that pinion/spur be good for a stock motor? You said my 83 tooth and 27 pinion were too steep. So should I get a large spur or smaller pinion? I have a 19,21, and 23 for my TL01 and I am sure they will fit. I also have the stock 25. That is what I normally run. Umm..I think you mean TEM? :D Anyway, how many turns is your stock motor?

[TEM]

You should search the TA04 thread for rollout or roll out cause I think I gave a good explanation on the topic.
for TA04 and 414 ONLY
Rollout = pinion/spur * 15/32 * pi * tire dia.

Assume rubber tires are between 62-64mm; measure them yourself cause different tires slightly vary.

Foams, measure....

For stock you are looking for 26(hi rpm motor and or tight track), all the way to about 30-31(for wider track or low rpm hi torque motor). And you work for this.

[minijosh]

27 turn stock motor. one is a trinity paradox and the other is a monster stock.

[TheoDR]

Confirmed that my old batts were the cause of the slow speed. Heh, just bought a new pack of GP, seems to give quite a good punch! Can't wait to give it a full test drive! :D

[monyet fangkeh]

could someone give me a good starting point for camber and toe?
right now i set 0 deg for all corner camber and 1 deg toe in in front and 2 deg in the rear cos i got the 2 deg upright. does it really matter setting up the caster? cos i tried once runing without the turnbuckle that connect the upper deck and the upright, and i didnt notice any difference( maybe it just me:p)
is it gonna improve thehandling if i set the caster? BTW what is torque rod that i read in few page back?

thank you

[minijosh]

here are my specs of my ta04-ss
front and rear droop 2 and 6
front camber -1 1/2 toe in -1 1/2
rear camber -1 1/2 toe in 1
front caster 10 ride height 6mm
the tamiya website has this for the pro
front
camber -1.5 ground clearance 5mm toe in -.5
rear
camber -1 ground clearance 5.5mm

[jackhammer74]

Hey Monyet the turnbuckle you said you removed, that's also called a torque rod. Removing it should give you more steering I know it did me.
As far as camber and toe are concern I run -1.5 deg front and rear
camber and 1.5 deg of toe out. Toe in / --- \ (looking down at your car) upfront will give you stability in the straights but will scrub speed. Toe out \ ---- / will give you more steering. Start with 0 deg of toe and work from there.
I'm not sure what you mean by setting up the caster, the caster angle is fixed on the TA04 unless you change uprights/hub carriers.
I'm assuming you have the 04R, this comes with the "racing" hub
carriers, which give you more aggressive steering than the stock hub carriers in the original 04, they provide 6 deg of caster, the ones in the original 04, provide 10 deg of caster, more caster makes the car more stable, but it doesn't turn as well.
Hope this helps.

[TEM]

Camber, like -1.5 degrees of camber in the front and -1 degrees in the rear. - meaning top of wheel is inwards, bottom of wheel outwards. 0 or 1 degrees of toe-out front, 2 degrees; stock racing carrier in rear. Setup up with setupstation or setup wheels and not your tires and rims.

As for castor. Just the stock TA04R stuff; with no torque rods. And as the President of the National Organization of TA04 Owners Against the Use of Torque Rods, I'd like to welcome you to join! More steering, less tweaking! You hit a wall, a torque rod can pop off, rip out of the front carrier, or bend a ball stud and then your car is tweaked! Might change the name of the orgainzation so that non-TA04 owners can join too. Just need approval from the other members(TA03DH, Jackhammer(you in, right?), etc) to vote on the issue at the next meeting....

[monyet fangkeh]

minijosh
thanks man...im gonna try that set up and work from there.:D

jackhammer74
thanks for that info:cool:

TEM
yeah...after reading ur post maybe i'll join ur anti torque rod group:)

[jackhammer74]

TEM, after seeing my car steer like a Mack truck with them on and then seeing the difference without them, you know I'm in baby!!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well i just got my R-Tuned kit:D

[minijosh]

let me see let me see!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[TRF Drive Hard]

I would if i could!!!:D

[TheoDR]

Give me!! Give me!!! :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Here's what i plan to add:

Ti CVDs
Aluminum caster blocks
Ti screws
Aluminum body post
Ti rods
Hardened suspension arms
Hardened steering knuckles
Aluminum bellcrank
Lightweight drive cups

just a few things to mention:p

[minijosh]

i would like to say thank you for all the troops who are not at home right now fighting for others freedom. this day will always hit home because I am one of those overseas serving your country. while you drive you rc cars in parking lots or built up tracks, we are out fighting so others may have the honor, no privledge of doing the same. this isn't beating a dead horse, just remember this, a army member from Tucson Arizona gave his life for his country and he is never coming home. His name isn't important to you but his daughter, who was born while he was gone, will never get to know her father who gave the ultimate sacrifice. now i ask you, was he a hero? enough said!! support your troops.

[DvMxDv]

minijosh,

Thank you.

America appreciates what you are doing, no matter what agenda the liberal media pushes. History will remember you and the others who are serving bravely and with honor as heros. Keep up the good work and may God bless and keep you!

[minijosh]

It's people like you that make our country worth fighting for!

[TA-04 racer]

Hi,

I have just bought a trinity monster horsepower pro for my ta-04 and just wondered what gearing i need to race it. I race at my local club so it needs to last for five mins and a bit

Cheers

BTW the gearing i am running is a tamiya 0.4 moduel 120 tooth spur with a tamiya 45t pinion;)

Thanks

[TA-04 racer]

Sorry about the last one put it on the wrong forum:rolleyes: it was supposed to be on the other ta-04 forum.

I was just wondering what gearing i would need for a trinity monster horsepower pro in my ta-04. It needs to last for five mins and a bit so i can race at the local club

Cheers

:cool:

[CarterTG]

Well, now that the weather is finally warming up for those of us in the snowbelt, I pulled out the TA04 Pro to prep it for some future bashing.

Since installing the TRF shocks, I really don't remember the last time I ran it. I do remember that the extra o-rings I used during assembly resulted in a lower ride height. I just checked the new ride height using the depth rod on the calipers... I'm at 4mm with the OEM Tamiya slicks... and about 5.5mm with a set of HPI X-Pattern & rims. With the stock plastic shocks, the TA04 must've been riding at around 7mm or higher.

I'm a bit apprehensive about running 4mm up & down the street. That pretty pretty underside ain't gonna be pretty no mo' :(

..anyway, the other thing I did since the calipers was handy was to measure the tire diameters and figure out gearing and rollout (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/fastmath.asp).

I'm only referencing the 04 module gears since that's what's listed in the assembly manual (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/manual.asp?id=266). A spreadsheet helped to whip up a rollout chart. Hope it helps a bit...

[CarterTG]

63mm Tamiya Slick and a 112 tooth Spur Gear
A 47 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 5.08 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 38.93 mm
A 48 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 4.98 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 39.76 mm
A 49 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 4.88 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 40.59 mm
A 50 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 4.78 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 41.42 mm
A 51 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 4.68 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 42.25 mm


65mm HPI X-Pattern and a 112 tooth Spur Gear
A 47 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 5.08 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 40.17 mm
A 48 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 4.98 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 41.02 mm
A 49 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 4.88 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 41.88 mm
A 50 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 4.78 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 42.73 mm
A 51 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 4.68 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 43.59 mm

[CarterTG]

63mm Tamiya Slick and a 120 tooth Spur Gear
A 40 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 6.40 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 30.93 mm
A 41 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 6.24 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 31.70 mm
A 42 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 6.10 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 32.47 mm
A 43 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 5.95 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 33.25 mm
A 44 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 5.82 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 34.02 mm
A 45 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 5.69 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 34.79 mm
A 46 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 5.57 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 35.57 mm
A 47 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 5.45 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 36.34 mm
A 48 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 5.33 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 37.11 mm
A 49 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 5.22 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 37.88 mm
A 50 tooth Pinion Gear gives a 5.12 Gear Ratio. Each Pinion turn makes the car travel 38.66 mm


65mm HPI X-Pattern and a 12