TA04 Forum

[jackhammer74]

Since I don't see one in here I'll try and start one, I'm sure plenty of people own this
kit.
my question is, is anybody familiar with the
racing hub carrier set tamiya sells for this kit, if so what's the benefit of it, is it just more camber?
Please help.

[GTpanda]

It's a different caster I think, but more importantly it has one more ball-ended link to the chassis, reducing slop even further! I think it's one of the must-haves for the TA04

[jackhammer74]

thanks for the reply man. I guess there's not many 04 owners outhere posting.
I'd seen the links you're talking about on other people's cars, but I haven't seen them listed under parts for the 04 on the Tamiya website. Do the racing hub carriers come with this links?

[GTpanda]

The links are included in the hop-up, with the ball ends (that substitute the two screws attaching the top deck front to the alu columns - sorry for the terminology)

the front suspension has virtually no slop anymore (haven't raced the car yet, that may well change with use)

there's a ta04 forum on hpi electric-non-hpi forum, last time I saw it it was quite active

there may also be something on some (don't know why this has been censored out... it's the name of the first (or so) search engine) ***** forum, but I prefer "general" forums because I like opinions from a broad public

I mostly hear positive comments about the ta04, but I think tamiya is paying the price for not being competitive for too long.

I can read some german, and there's a lot of activity in germany and the netherlands, you can find tips on www.tamiya.nl (http://www.tamiya.nl) (under the racing team pages). I even buy from a german online shop, my LHSs don't love tamiya and don't carry but the basic hop-ups

the only thing I got from towerhobbies is the carbon chassis (much cheaper than the other carbon upper- and lower deck items that became available this year, don't know why... do you?)

can't wait to try the car out, but ... I already got a job ;)

[ 09-21-2001: Message edited by: GTpanda ]

[karim]

Yes, the racing hub carrier set is an absolute must-have. It will reduce slop dramatically thus improving the handling of the car. Other must-haves are the aluminum motor heat sink and the aluminum spur gear adapter, they will help reduce the occurence of flexing or warping spur gears. Other important hop-ups would be the carbon saddle pack chassis and if you run on a wide-open track the front one-way diff would be of great help. I have a full-option TA04 and those were the hop-ups that had the most noticeable advantages.

[RC10L3 Oval guy]

hey guys. Don't get me wrong, but tamiya should at least put 20-19 turn motors in kits, or no motors at all. Also the ta-o4s have bushings!!!! And 200 for the Ferrari, I could get an Associated oval for that much. Thought i want a ta-04, but tamiya should add more for the dollar or hundred!:confused:

[jackhammer74]

As a Tamiya lover I wish I could argue with you RC10L3, but I can't, you're right. Take nothing away from the TA04 though, it has an incredibly smooth drivetrain, I love mine. It just takes a little bit deeper pockets to maintain one.

[RC10L3 Oval guy]

Ya i don't mean to be mean, but thats the truth. I love tamiya to. I'm glad you aren't mad:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)

[GTpanda]

I agree, Tamiya is expensive. But the TA-04R is imho a good bargain, it has a lot of hop-ups (even expensive ones) included.

I can't understand the other variants, they really are too expensive. Having purchased a TA-04pro, I wish I had waited for a few months and got the "R"... :(

[k_bojar]

The TA-04R is an EXTREMELY good bargin...Its a better deal than the Pro kit :) just got one and love the car and I gotta say its FAST :D It even seems faster than my TC3

Anyone got any good set-ups for the TA04 for carpet and/or parking lot???

[TRF414m]

To relpy to an earlier post, the racing hub carrier set is a great part to have but not because it reduces slop. I often switch from the racing carrier set to the stock one depending on the track conditions. One thing I do is cut off the original mounting point on the stock caster block and run the same mounting point as the racing set. This gives much better grip and steering.

[GTpanda]

TRF414m: maybe a dumb question :o, can you please explain? I can't tell what's the difference...

thanx

[TRF414m]

GTpanda-
The main difference between the stock (TA04) block and the racing caster block is the amount of caster, upperlink location and the torque rod (this is the second upperlink). The stock caster block has about 8 deg. of caster, upperlink location is on the block via 3mm ball end and no torque rod mounting point. The racing caster block has about 5 deg. of caster, upperlink is located on the upper kingpin and of course the torque rods.

You can run the upperlink on the upper kingpin with the stock caster blocks by cutting off the extra material that the 3mm ball end would usually go. I wish I could tell you exactly when one caster block is better than the other but there doesn't seem to be a predictable way. I can say that the performance difference is huge when you have the right one for the condition your running. I'd say that I use each one about 50/50.

[GTpanda]

thanx, I think I got it.

in theory, less caster makes the car less stable on the straight and more aggresive in the turns... is this your feeling?

I just mounted the racing set without giving much thought, I'll try to make a comparison now!

Cheers

[TRF414m]

GTpanda-
It's the other way around. The more caster, the more stable in general. Caster is a tuning item just as much as camber is. The reason why the stock caster blocks work better in some conditions is because it provides the required balance of steering resulting in higher corner speeds. Having said that, you will also incounter conditions that demand the racing caster blocks (less caster) to better balance the car. If you are using the racing caster blocks and your car seems to stop in the turns (I don't mean it actually stops) you may want to try the stock caster blocks. You may notice more corner speed resulting in faster lap times. The same goes for the stock caster blocks. They may not enter the turns well and cause too much understeer. In this case you should try the racing caster blocks. Like I was saying before, sometimes your car might seem good with one of the caster blocks until you try the other and find it's even better.

[TRF414m]

Oops, I read your post too fast. Yes, less caster less stable or more turn in. I thought you typed less caster more stable.

[GTpanda]

:) it's OK

it's good to have a really tunable tamiya car at last... (I don't mean hop-uppable, that's never been a problem :D )

[jackhammer74]

I just got my brand new replacement bottom deck, I went with the new carbon reinforced tub, I think it is the stock one on the TA04R. This thing is pretty cool, pretty sturdy, and it even has a cutout for the motor, it was pricey though, 40 bucks.
I can't wait to install it, but alas I'm going to have to wait because the morons at my LHS, got my special order and then decided to put it up with the store stock, I'm missing the front and
rear CF shock towers, and the two low friction belts I'd ordered.
Last time I order from them.:mad:

[ivannaxray]

I was looking through the november 2001 car action when i saw the painted TA04 corvette, and thought it was pretty sweet, i was thinking of starting on-road racing and was wondering if the Ta04R was a good begginers car or would the X-ray T1 be better (it includes the tuning manual, which is why i was wondering)

[jackhammer74]

well, neither of those kits is a beginners kit, but if you're set with either one of them. I'd go with the TA04R. It's quick, handles pretty good, and it's fairly durable. Believe me it's pretty competitive.
Now the XRay that's a top of the line exotic touring car, it's tuning is pretty involved, there's an infinite amount of tweaking you cand do to that car, and it might be a handfull if you're just getting started, I mean you don't want to get discouraged, right off the bat.

[ivannaxray]

very true. i also don't want to spend $300 bucks on something outta my league. I was wondering what car you would recommend for a beginner on-roader (i do the off-road scene) I was thinking the T1 because it has that tuning manual to go with the instruction manual.

[jackhammer74]

seriously, as a beginner I would buy,
-a TC3 racer kit I have one, so I speak from experience. excellent
-a TA04S or R (the R is a little pricier, but well worth it), I myself
bought the TA04 when it first came out and I love mine.
-a TL01, there's lots of aftermarket support for this car, and a lot
of people race them competitively too, very,very simple to set up
and you'll find a lot of help with it should you happen to need it.

I got personal experience with the TC3 and the TA04, and I love them both. Money wise the TC3 is the better deal 'cause of what it comes with. It's a steal at $150, the TA04 will run you between $160 and $200.
Anybody else got any other suggestions?

[ivannaxray]

thanx
i was looking through my car action mag again and i found the TA04 sport with the corvette body on it. What all does the TC3 include that the TA04 sport doesn't and vise versa. By the way tower has the Ta04 sport for $160 just like you said.

[M 5]

Let me tell you the price of all TA04series
TA04PRO $138, its $151 when I bought it...
TA04 w/ferrari360 $128, w/GTR $100
TA04-S $61, w/corvette$83
TA04-R $147

Quite cheap!:cool:

[jackhammer74]

Where are you getting those prices from M5?

Ivannaxray the main difference I would see between the TA04S and the TC3 is the material they're made off, the TC3 is made of a very sturdy composite, while the 04 is made of plastic which is not as durable.

[ivannaxray]

i have some information about graphite, now this is going to come as a shock but graphite isn't that durable. The problem with graphite is that it is very stiff, which causes it to snap when pressure is applied. in the words of a chinese proverb if you do not bend you will break (and yes it applies to graphite)

[M 5]

Jack: HONGKONG

[jackhammer74]

Ivannaxray, I just want to give you a heads up, I have both cars
and while I love my TA04, I've had to replace a lot of parts already
after only a few races. Lower deck, front and rear shock towers, which went the same day, upper deck, and belts, all are goners. I'm currently upgrading those parts to the hop up versions.
The TC3 in the other hand is more resistant to impacts, let me tell you I found that out quickly, I put a 15 turn jade speed gem, in there, it was ballistic. I had quite a few bad crashes while making some high speed passes. LOL.
Nothing broke.
Bottom line is, whatever material you're dealing with, if you strike it hard enough it is going to give. It just seems to me that the TC3s composite doesn't give as quick.
Also I forgot to mention before, a huge feature of the TC3 is that it comes with MIP CVDs(constant velocity drives), huge improvement over dogbones.
Look man, I love Tamiya, I've had at least 5 tamiya cars, and believe me there's no substitute for looking at others guys faces after they ate your dust, and then telling them that a Tamiya just kicked the pants out of their Pro 2s, Pro 3s, Yokomos etc..
But for a beginner, if you want to get your money's worth, be fast, and maybe eventually when you're ready be competitive all with the same car, without having to buy a lot of hop ups. Then I think a TC3 is the best choice.

[ivannaxray]

I found the xxx-s for only 180 is worth the additional money or is it just a so-so car. I kinda like the idea of a no tweak chassis, but right now my hobby shop offers mostly associated which swings me back the other way. Oh i am so confused :confused:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey tower has a TA04R for $292... im guessing this baby is hopped up the whaaaazoooo... and one got any info on this? i just purchased it and im waiting for it to come in-stock... i got an 04 Pro... but i havent built it yet... i wanna make a slammin hopped up ride just like my other 3 ta03s...:cool:

[M 5]

Pricey!:eek:

You already have a TA04 PRO and you ordered another version of TA04?

[GTpanda]

:eek: :cool: hey, Drive Hard, you're still one '04 short... :D :D :D

in any case the 'R is the best choice, in your shoes I wouldn't bother building the pro - personally, I got the pro and am still buying my way through to an 'R worth of hopups...

just kidding, but... is there a reason beyond insane passion for RC to get three pieces of a kind ? :confused: ;) :D

[micro_man]

i am getting a ta03 and a tl01 and i wanted to know if there are some good modifications for them so i can race at the tamiya track. the ta03 is an r version.

thanks

[TRF Drive Hard]

I'm just buyin it for looks and show... plus i wanna make sure i get every hop-up there is in the aftermarket... i'm also lookin into gettin the HKS Altezza kit... and the TA04-S...

...as for that 03... the 03 was a hop-able car... there were plenty of parts for that kit back then... even rare to find... ha ha that's how i have 3 03's hopped... the tl01 is hop-able... as i mentioned before in another thread, i built one from ground up buying every aftermarket part... value is about $300... as for the others, like the 03, and 04... valued between $400-600 sweeeeet:cool:

[M 5]

If you like the looks, why don't you get the 414M, or even the new TV EVOII :cool:

I also have a TA03-F with every hop-up! But after I got the 04PRO, I left it aside... Wouldn't thought Tamiya will come out with this 'so cheap' TA04-R!:o

[Usagi]

The TAO4R is about 20,000 yen here in Japan.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Heck i want the 414M... know where i can get one?:confused:

[jackhammer74]

looks like you may have to order that from Japan, I know of a couple people that have it, but I'm not sure where they got it from, I haven't seen it anywhere myself.

[GTpanda]

Drive Hard:

if you can0t find it in Japan, try in Europe, it doesn't seem to be a problem over here, the 414 is about 560 USD (1 euro is about .9 USD, so even less than that)

tamiya-shop.de (http://www.modellbau-roehrmann.de/cgi-bin/artikeldb.pl?funktion=2&warengruppe=RC-CarsyyyTamiya)

[Usagi]

Japan has them for 36,800 yen or $280.00 for the 414M

[Usagi]

AAll the tao4 series are are really cheap her, ta04 is around 11,000 yen or so. the Ta04r is about seeing prices nowdays for 19800yen or $170.00 or so. Prices are dropping here.

[jackhammer74]

I wonder how much would shipping add on to that price.

[Usagi]

well maybe some thing like $20 or so.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey Usagi... do you think you can hook me up? im good for the money... please? i really want one of them babies...:cool:

actually i meant to post in the 414... what i really want is a 414m... if it's possible

[jackhammer74]

hey, does anybody know if tamiya or anybody else is going to make aluminum bulkheads for this chassis, I drool everytime I look at the Xray's beautiful set.

[Usagi]

Let me get back to you on that tao3:)

[TRF Drive Hard]

SHWEEEEEEET:cool:

[jackhammer74]

Hey, has any of you guys checked out www.speedtechrc.com
they got some pretty sweet stuff, and it's very reasonably priced.
Also they're about to start carrying a full line of tamiya parts and accesories.

[M 5]

Hey guys
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/tamiya_fair/ta04blue.jpg

"blue is faster"

[M 5]

Usagi
How much is a 414M in Japan?

Its about 320 here :D

[M 5]

TTT!

Heres mine
http://www.geocities.com/jason_4tec/ta04_01.JPG
Huge picture, sorry:p

go here if its not working
http://www.geocities.com/jason_4tec/ta04_01.JPG

[Usagi]

Hi M,
You taking $ or yen? 414m

Well 36,700 yen or I don`t know about $ maybe 310.00? its crazy a?:)

[jackhammer74]

those that use aluminum shocks, which kind do you use? and how do you like them?
I've heard of people using associated's, yokomo's, the tamiya TRFs, and even somebody tried serpents, (the ones on the xray)
I've seen some made by integy at www.speedtechrc.com and they're reasonably priced but I don't know if they'll fit.
:confused:

[yf22k]

This is my TA04S C5R. Its not really a S kit anymore with all the option parts i have.

I have
1)16T Triple Motor
2)Carbon Fiber Upper Deck
3)Carbon Fiber Lower Deck
4)Carbon Fiber Shock Towers
5)Carbon Fiber Suspension Arms
6)Aluminum/Carbon Fiber Gear Hub Carrier
7)Aluminum Ball Differential Pulleys
8)Aluminum Shocks
9)Aluminum Motor Mount Meatsink
10)HG Aluminum Alloy 5 Le Mans wheels
11)Aluminum Racing Steering
12)Universal Shafts
13)Front & Rear Sway Bars
14)Ball Differentials
15)Full Turnbuckles
16)Low Friction Suspension Shafts
Not all these parts are installed yet.

[yf22k]

Here's another pic

[yf22k]

Here's the last pic. Let me know what you think. Its a little blurry. I'll have some new pics in a few weeks after i put the option parts on.

[yf22k]

Hey where can i get the blue shocks like M5? my purple ones are kinda girly plus i want to have a second set with a different setting

[Bandini]

I want to get a TA04-R chassis kit and a Protoform Stratus body. Will I need part no 53426, TA04 RACING BODY MOUNT SET?

What does the racing body mount set do? Does it alter the positions of the body mounts?

Also, is there anything else that's needed to build a competitive racer? It looks to me like the R version needs next to nothing.

[M 5]

yf22k:Sure I can get them for you. But I'm not sure if they're out yet.
Just PM me.

Bandini: Those body mounts are stock mounts. That's not an upgrade.
You don't need to get another mount, you just need to cut the holes on the body to fit directly to the body mounts.

[Bandini]

M 5: Oh :o I saw this compatibility list (http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/rc11.htm), where a few bodies were listed with OP426 as a necessary part. Hence my confusion.

[carbsmith]

Hmmmm, once again Tower's over-pricedness I guess, because I have only seen the TA04R at 220-225US before.

[rcgary]

I use the Tamiya Threaded shock bodies, and they work very well. I haven't "had" to rebuild them, just have to try different oils. Very consistent. While other companies do make very nice shocks for this car, remember only Tamiya shocks are TCS legal. Why buy 2 different sets, you know?

Drive Hard, GTPanda's right about the chassis too. Get the R, and at most pick up the saddle pack chassis. 2 other hop ups you'll probabilly want that aren't in the box with either car are the one-way upper shaft and front one-way. They make the car much free-er

[Bandini]

rcgary: Correct me if I'm wrong; on a tight carpet track, I don't want the one-ways, do I? I also want to run with stick packs, so I guess the TA04-R already has everything I want in a car.

Ivannaxray: Ivannata04r :)

[gkc]

I would suggest getting the Lightweight Diff Joints. It frees up the drivetrain, improves acceleration and top speed. Gives your 04 a totally different feel

[Bandini]

M 5: Regarding the body mounts again; I heard over at the HPI forum that the front racing mounts are placed on the foam bumper instead of the shock tower. There were some pictures as well, so I'm inclined to believe this is true.

[rcgary]

High traction carpet is the perfect example of where you DO want to run the double one way. You have so-much traction to begin with, especially if your track runs foams. I primarily race carpet with mine, and our track bans foams, so we run Yoke, Pit, or Sorex slicks. I use the double one way. Actually...(thumbing through setup notes...) I always use the one way. There was one time (not at band camp) where the track was kinda slick, and I just used a softer rear insert to help rear traction and laid the rear shocks in one hole, but I kept the double one ways in. The car carries more corner speed with this setuo. I believe just about everyone except for 2 people in the top 10 in the GT2 class this year at Nationals ran the double one ways. If you're not sure you'll like it, get the upper shaft first. It will free up the drive train and the car won't be all that drastically different "feeling", but it will be more efficient. Then try the front diff.

As far as the chassis goes, yes, if you want to run stick packs, the graphite reinforced tub chassis is very nice. I have one myself. I just think the car is better balanced with teh saddle pack chassis. The rear of the car feels a little more "squirmy" to me with the tub. I know this is a weight distribution thing, I just haven't taken the time to change my setup all that much. The car is just better "for me" with the saddle chassis.

The "Racing" body mount set moves the front body mounts off the shock tower and onto the front bumper. It's a relocation of the posts is all. It helps keep the wheel wells from cracking if you hit something because there's more frontally located support.

[M 5]

Originally posted by Bandini
M 5: Regarding the body mounts again; I heard over at the HPI forum that the front racing mounts are placed on the foam bumper instead of the shock tower. There were some pictures as well, so I'm inclined to believe this is true.

Bandini, hey you're right. There are difference between the stock ones and this racing mount set. But its very useless because the main purpose is to mount the body. You can do the same thing with the stock one to any body.
Also it won't fit any Tamiya body that is specially designed for the TA04, don't know about other Tamiya bodies though.
:)

[carbsmith]

Remember, the TAO4R's tub is stiffer than the saddle chassis, and it can take side by sides too! I think the original TAO4 Pro chassis could too, but many people didn't realize it (this is based on a TA04 add, so I could be wrong).

[rcgary]

yes, the stock FRP TA-04 Pro chassis could use side-by-side packs too. I know the molded chassis is supposed to be stiffer, but I just like the way the car handles better with the weight bias of the saddle pack vs the molded tub chassis. Again, personal preference.:)

[carbsmith]

I knew that it was the weight bias that you liked, and I don't have a problem with that-I was just saying. A stick pack across the chassis never has ideal weight bias-only front to back like the RS4 Pro3.

[rcgary]

or saddle style as well. I like the idea behind the layout on the pro 3, but the rest of the car makes me go Hmmmmmmmm....:D

[carbsmith]

other than steering, it doesn't look like it would be very hard to make a TAO4 a center batteried car.

[Bandini]

Rainbow Ten in Japan is selling TA04 PRO Blue Collection for 27000 Yen. Can anyone tell me what the difference is between a regular TA04 PRO and the Blue?

The TA04-R sells for 24000 Yen. Would this still be a better deal than the PRO, even the Blue one?

[TRF Drive Hard]

I WANT THAT BLUE!!! GIMMIE BLUE BLUE BLUE!!!

[ShinHed]

I heard the TA04r was the best. Why would that be?

[rcgary]

Best value. It has the threaded shocks ($50), racing front hub carriers ($15), new rear hubs with more toe-in ($12), the aluminum spur gear moung ($12), graphite injected molded tub (the standard tub is just plastic), graphite upper deck ($15). full bearings, ball diffs, and more. That's $104 roughly over the cost for the hop ups seperately, plus it comes with a body too. The 04 pro retails for $299. You can get an 04r for $250-$290, and it doesn't need the addtional hop ups because it already has them

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by rcgary
...04 pro retails for $299. You can get an 04r for $250-$290, and it doesn't need the addtional hop ups because it already has them

Where can I sign on?

[rcgary]

They're backordered right now...good luck finding one for the next short while... Worth the wait though

[Bandini]

But surely the so called "TA04 PRO Blue Collection" must come with threaded shocks at least. Otherwise it wouldn't look particularly blue.;)

[Usagi]

You know those prepainted bodies are maded in the philpinnes? thats how they can produces them so cheapy. :confused:

[Bandini]

At last, I found some information and a picture. Try this link! (http://www.tamiya.com/japan/news/news0201/news2.htm)

If my translation from Japanese is correct, this is a TA04 Pro, plus ten hop-ups for better steering and drive efficiency.

The blue stuff is TRF dampers, motor heat sink and aluminum racing steering - apart from the, IMO, ugly wheels.

This chassis is 12.5 % more expensive than the TA04-R chassis in Japan. So what do you say?

[jackhammer74]

Has anyone installed the new lightweight outdrives in their 04s yet? What do you think?

[rcgary]

i've got them installed and will be running them for the first time tonight. hoping for good things :)

[ShinHed]

Never mind this post.

[pkny]

i'm really glad to say that i will be getting my ta04 pro with in a month or so.. and i need some suggestions on what to "upgrade" i'm for sure getting,

turnbuckle upgrades - steering / camber;
graphite/aluminum gear hub;
stabilizer bars;
springs;
heat sink;
body mount;
aluminum ball connectors;
racing hub carriers;

any suggestions on what i should also get?? btw i'm kind of curious if anyone has upgraded the pulley (above the motor mount).. i've noticed that people usually have one of the two pulleys upgraded to aluminum.. is it possible to install two aluminum pullies?

thanx a lot

PK

[TRF Drive Hard]

I think i love my 04 more now than i do with my 03s... this thing is quick!:D

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by pkny
any suggestions on what i should also get??

Depending on where you are getting your Pro, I'd get a Ta04R. Its a much better deal, for around the same price.

[FuriousGeorge]

Hey, I just wanted to know how good the TA04S is? I am possibly going to get one, but I want to know how durable and competitive it is in stock form. I don't have much to spend on upgrades, I just want a durable car I can have fun with or possibly even race. Is the TA04S a good choice?

[RCtinkerman]

Mine started out stock. The couple of times I ran it without hop-ups it ran well but was a little on the heavy side. I will say the thing never broke on me not even once. I contribute it to luck more than good driving:D It's a good car.

[ijnek]

Hi,

i'm currently running the ta04r chassis.
jus need 2 find out if there r any after market aluminium parts available for the ta04 chassis.

if there is,can u pls provide the website?...thanx...

[rcgary]

there are blue aluminum parts coming out, but not things like a-arms, hub carriers, etc. Check out tamiya.com and click on the new products listing. There's a TA04 Blue collection, and it describes all the alluminum parts

[FuriousGeorge]

Are 414M parts compatible with the TA04 chassis? Like, would the universals or the ball diff from a 414M fit the TA04?
Thanks in advance for any reply.

[rcgary]

Yes, BUT... If you use 414 drivetrain components in the TA-04, and some do fit, it is not legal. The only exceptions are the diff pullies/diff assemblies, and I think the aluminum pullies are also legal. But the upper one way for the 414 is not legal to use on the TA-04.

[Rza]

finally people who like tamiya rc.

anyway i found this site to have a pretty good list on tamiya chassis hop-ups.

hop up link (http://www.tamiya.nl/tamoptions/tam_53000_ta04.html)

also

another link (http://www.tamiya.dk/rc/ta04options.html)

man i wish i would have waited for the TA04-R kit too.
i spend enough money on my TA04-PRO to buy 2 R kit.
oh well.

and towerhobbies has the TA04-R kits for 180. damn!

[ShinHed]

I have a Ta04 Graphite saddle pack on the way. What problem will I run into trying to install it on a Ta04r? I heard it needs some sort of support but, wouldnt the supports have come with the ta04r?

[rcgary]

No, they came with the Pro. In back where the 2 screws connect the upper deck to the motor arches.....On the R chassi, those screw sholes are part of the chassis. On the Saddle Pack chassis (And the Pro for that Matter) there are 2 aluminum posts that do that. I think they're Tamiya P/N 9805675. Call tamiya to be sure though.


Just an FYI:
There is a NEW NEW version of the molded chassis on the way out. It has slots cut onder the motor like the old chassis, but the area under the batteries is also milled out too. AND, it's the right lenght, so you're front belt won't be stretched to blazes. I have one, and it's really nice. The car works nearly as well with this chassis as my saddle pack chassis. it's P/N 53494 I think:cool:

[pkny]

are there anyone who own's a 414 m?

if so - are the belts on the 414 m the "low friction" ones?
thx

[Rza]

It looks like iam going to be going another ta04 kit but this time the ta04-r.

is a very very good value to pass up.
even comes with 2 sets of the 53438 Tamiya Universal Shaft TA04

damn i wish i would have picked this up and not the pro kit : ).

[jackhammer74]

How do you think I feel Rza I bought the basic TA04 when it first came out for about $200 and that's because I had a 10% off coupon. I guess I just love Tamiya cause I've spent another 200 bucks hooking it up and I'm not done yet. I love it.

[adray]

i'm looking for a good gearing combo for my new TA04-S. i use a 12 turn Caliber motor, a novak esc and a 2400 ni cd pack. my battery and motor are getting extremely hot after a run. tamiya says to use a smaller pinion with a stronger motor, and i've read in RCCA about combos in the 30 tooth pinion range. any ideas? i'd like any other setup tips or websites for my car as well. thanks-A

[rcgary]

how large of a track? With an open track with a 75 foot straight, I'll gear between a 96/23-26 depending on motor and infield.

[adray]

well, i'm lucky enough to be in southern california, and my favorite place to run my cars is at Tamiya Headquarters, alot of curves and one long straight, although i haven't brought the TA04 there yet. most of the other courses i go to do have long straights but also alot of curves as well. i'm mainly looking for a solution that would keep my gear from overheating. thanks-A

[rcgary]

Well, why didn't you say that! LOL. with a 12 turn on the tamiya track, I'd run a 22 or 23/93 We were running 28/93 in stock at the nats last year, so a 5 tooth drop sounds about right.

[ImpreziveSTi]

This has probably already been discussed, sorry, but what do you guys think of the HKS Altezza TA04R? I know it doesn't have everything that the dedicated R-chassis includes but is it a good buy or is it better to go all out and pay for the R-chassis?

Also, how do u guys do against the TC3's, Pro3's, X-rays, XXS, and all the rest?

Go Tamiya!

happy motoring,
ImpreziveSTi

[jackhammer74]

Yes it does have everything, they're the same thing, the only difference is that the HKS comes with the Altezza body and the chassis kit comes with no body, and actually I don't know where you've been looking but, the Altezza is generally $50 + more expensive than the chassis alone, sometimes more.
As far as perfomance goes, it's there, you just have to know how to set up your TC. With a good set up this puppy has no problem hanging in with any TC out in the market.

[Rza]

the chassis comes with dish wheels while the hks kit comes with 5-spoke wheels. hehe :)

[ImpreziveSTi]

jackhammer74: really? generally $50 more than the R-chassis? I know a place where it's $229 and online at Tower and Hobbypeople they have them less than the R-chassis at around $249. I was comparing the parts list between the two and according to Tamiya's site the dedicated R-chassis has a bit more hop-ups than the Altezza, which must be why it sells for more at the places I have seen it. Anyone else can confirm this?

happy motoring,
ImpreziveSTi

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by ImpreziveSTi
..I was comparing the parts list between the two and according to Tamiya's site the dedicated R-chassis has a bit more hop-ups than the Altezza, which must be why it sells for more at the places I have seen it. Anyone else can confirm this?..
Ehh, Like what? I have an Altezza and evreything listed on the Tamiya site for the dedicated R chassis came inside the Altezza kit (minus the dish wheels).

[jackhammer74]

Hey imprezive I see what you're saying I checked out Tower and they want $292 for the 04R chassis kit, but just last week they had it listed for $174.
They also have the Altezza kit for $249, that doesn't make any sense. Matter of fact , I called Tamiya America in Aliso Viejo, CA. I spoke with one of their techs, and I asked him about the 04R chassis kit and the Altezza kit, and he verified that they're the exact same thing only difference is like Shin hed said the chassis comes with dish wheels and no body, while the Altezza 04R comes with finished body and 5 spoke gold wheels.
I don't know what Tower is doing. Even at my LHS where things are generally more expensive, the chassis is 50 bucks cheaper than the Altezza.

[pkny]

yay i got my 414m for $340 US!!!

[ImpreziveSTi]

Thanks for the clarification guys. Yah, I noticed that Tower has been listing the TA04's at some wacky prices. Also hobbypeople.net is listing the 04Pro at 219 and the R-chassis at 209 :confused:

Anyways, I heard about a new revised chassis for the 04R. What was the problem with it in the first place and should I wait until they hit the market?

happy motoring,
ImpreziveSTi

[jackhammer74]

The problem with the first run was, that the carbon reinforced tub
was a tad too long and would cause the front belt to get too tight and actually fray.
The revised chassis is actually the right size, plus it has countersunk battery slots and countersunk screw holes on the bottom.
I bought the first one as a hop-up, and then found out about the problem, I sent it out to Tamiya and they're supposed to send me the new one.

[pkny]

if you live in Toronto, canada - tamiya claims that you can trade in your gen 1. carbon chassis that was included in the 04R kits for the generate 2 chassis for free - you just go to the hobby shop that you bought it from

[jackhammer74]

Do any of you guys use other than Tamiya springs? I've heard about people using Associated's. Tamiya's do tend to be softer than other brands.

[Randy Rathbun]

I have ordered the carbon fiber chassis for the TA04-S and should have it in the next day or so. I have a question about it before it arrives: am I going to need the center posts, tam part # 9805675?

RCCA has them listed in the March 2002 issue as something I am going to need, but the Tamiya site shows something that looks like them in with the lower chassis - since the picture is so small I can't be sure, however.

[pkny]

i believe you do need the center post if you're installing the carbon chassis on a 04-S..

the centerpost is used to hold up the motor mount/gearbox parts

just check in with the staff at the hobby store you're buying the chassis from.

[Randy Rathbun]

Ive asked. Nobody seems to know. Nobody but Tamiya even acknowledges the part exists!

Guess I should just spend a few minutes letting my fingers do the walking and call them.

update:
Just called Tamiya. They said it does come with the center posts.

Update to the update:
Got the lower chassis and it does indeed come with the center posts. This thing looks very cool.

[jackhammer74]

What body do you guys like the most on your TA04, I like the
300M I don't like the styling but, I like how it handles with it.

[Gallen]

I am using the 300M too, it works great!

[Gallen]

hey guys,
does TA-04 have the aluminum bridge that goes above the motor just like 414M?????

[jackhammer74]

You're referring to the rear bulkheads, I have searched for those for a long time now, I don't think that at this time anybody makes them for the TA04.

[Gallen]

have a look at my TA-04!
http://www.geocities.com/billyko83/1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/billyko83/2.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/billyko83/3.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/billyko83/4.jpg

[jackhammer74]

very nice car man! How many megapixel camera did you use to take those pics.

[Gallen]

3 million...but took it with the lowest setting!

[MrHorspwer]

I am the newest TA04 owner to join this thread. I have a TL01 that I quickly outgrew after two trips to the track. I picked up a TA04-S to do track duties. Before anyone says it... I didn't get a R because I seriously didn't want to pay the extra $100+ my LHS or Tower was getting for them... espically since I will probibly beat it into the boards pretty badly. I will add some hop-ups eventually... I would like to get used to the car first. Right now I am running 26mm HPI x-pattern tires, TRF dampers (yellow spring, 70wt oil), a Trinity Midnight 27T, and a Rooster ESC... all of which were lifted from my TL01. This was a pretty decent setup for the carpet track I race at... it ran circles around a friends foam tire equipped, P2k motor'd, long-arm TL01. I am expecting similar results with the TA04... maybe a spring change. I have a few questions for you guys though. First, the factory instruction manual setup has a serious amount of positive camber and toe out up front. I measured everything with my calipers, twice... all to spec. Is this the setup the car usually likes? Alot of people I have talked to say that Tamiya manual setpus are pretty much right in the ballpark. I had my TL01 set up with about 0 toe, about 1-1.5 degrees negative camber up front... with 2 degrees in (uprights), 0 degrees camber in rear. What kind of numbers are you fellas running on carpet? My second question regards a vibration. I have yet to really take the car out... I just ran through a pack in my basement to make sure everything is alright. With the car off the ground and on throttle, if I turn the wheel it shakes like hell. I think I have narrowed it to the rear belt vibrating. It only happens when the front tires are turned though. I don't notice any problems with the car on the ground whne it is actually moving. Is this normal and I'm just being paranoid? Or should I check something out? Another question... kinda related. Where should my belt tension be? Right now, I have the adjuster a little tighter than half way on the slot... so the belt it about even with the top of the upper brace. I tried multiple locations, the vibraiton still remained. Thank for the help.

[Gallen]

I think you should start off by setting the front and the rear at 1 degree and after you get used to your car, change the rear to a 1.5. This setting works really well for me. Alsothe shock oil you are using is too high, you should be using a 40 to a 60 W oil. The tension of the belt doesn't really matter, as a lot of people run their TA-04 without the tension adjuster. Hope this helps!

[jackhammer74]

You sure about the shock oil Gallen? 40w rear, 60w front , works great on asphalt, but on carpet, 70w sounds right, up front though, in the rear try 50w.
Also, about the belt tensioner Gallen's right, set it so there's little or no tension, the belt will stretch eventually, then, the tensioner will become very useful.

[Gallen]

I am very sure about the shock oil, 60W up front and 40W at the rear. This will make the car very stable.

[MrHorspwer]

I haven't done much tuning with the oil... I went with 70wt based on the recommendation of a few racers at the track. I never played with it on my TL01, it worked well and I didn't want to change it. A few were running as high as 90 in the front... but 60-80wt up front and 40-60wt rear was the norm. I plan on picking up some oil and a spring kit to play with either way. Right now I only have yellow and gold springs... which I am assuming are medium springs. Thanks for the tip on the tensioner, I will loosen it up before I hit the track.

[CaseyDDR]

new guy here and jus saying im buying a TA-04P Blue Edition :) hehe. are these any good? my last RC car was a TA-02 when i was like 8 lol. i raced it though! and i won! so its ok :) anyways jus tell me how these cars run, i get mine tomarrow night :) woowoo.

[Gallen]

great car, but you will have to spend some time on tuning your car, as it is very different from your tl02. The TA-04 is more sensitive to the setup.

[CaseyDDR]

Nono, its a TA-02 :) how much should this thing cost... i know the price im getting it for and it sounds good but not sure. and if you guys are interested.. i know somebody selling TA-04 Pro's for cheap. not going to say who or price but if he wants me to and u guys are interested i will :)

What all does the Blue edition come with now, i read earlier bout u guys talking bout it. Whats special bout it? Thanks!

Casey

[pkny]

ta04 pro - blue version has nothing "really special" to it except that it comes with blue anodized trf shocks, blue alum. motor mount, blue aluminum steering arms.. etc. etc.

basically hte orig. ta04 pro with blue parts.. get a ta04 R - its worth the money, and i must emphasize - the ta04 pro Blue / normal's have a frp chassis's - the ta04R has a moulded graphite chassis with a graphite upper deck

[Skribble]

I think this is a pic of the blue version ..

[Gallen]

this is not a TA-04, it is a 414MII!

[lance_5346]

yeah,the TA04 doesn't have the blue alum. bulkheads, the TA04-blue ed just has a blue anod. Motor Heatsink plate.

[rcgary]

2 FYI's guys:

(doing best Howard Finkel voice) And The NEW, 2002 Ifmar Touring Car World Champion Chassis, The Tamiya 414M2! And people say Tamiya cars aren't competitive.

There is a new 04 on the horizon. the 04ss. It's wheelbase is 10mm shorter then a standard 04.

[jackhammer74]

Man! I want a 414MII, sooo bad.
By the way Tamiya only entered 2 cars, and they both made the A-main, pretty impressive huh?

[rcgary]

I know. I wonder why Jun and Jacobson weren't there. $$$ perhaps?

[Skribble]

Oh, my bad. :(

[lance_5346]

yeah..the ta04ss is basically the same chassis as the others, or so ive heard, and the only thing new are the suspension arms that are angled more inwards towards the center of the car to give it a shorter wheelbase. tho IMO the solid rear arms look nice.

I heard sometime ago when I was racing my ta04, a guy said that it's the end of the world when tamiya wins the worlds

AAAAHHHHHHHH!!!! THE ENDDD IIISSSS NNNEEEAAARRR!!!!

man, i gotta find that guy again..

[jackhammer74]

Hey, rcgary, I was wondering the same thing, I thought Jun and Jacobson were Big T's #1 and #2 guys.

[rcgary]

I guess just stateside

[Babblefish]

Originally posted by pkny
ta04 pro - blue version has nothing "really special" to it except that it comes with blue anodized trf shocks, blue alum. motor mount, blue aluminum steering arms.. etc. etc.

basically hte orig. ta04 pro with blue parts.. get a ta04 R - its worth the money, and i must emphasize - the ta04 pro Blue / normal's have a frp chassis's - the ta04R has a moulded graphite chassis with a graphite upper deck

Not quite. The TA04-Pro blue version has all the aluminum parts, universal joints, threaded shocks, etc. that the TA04-R has (in blue of course). The blue edition is just one notch below the 414MII. Major things missing are the aluminum bulkheads and suspension arm supports. If I'm not mistaken, it even comes with carbonfiber upper and lower chassis plates. The standard TA04-Pro is essentially a TA04-S with fiberglass upper and lower decks. Check Tamiya's website for more info. The car in the picture is a standard TA04-Pro.

http://home.earthlink.net/~wjang/_uimages/MiscPhotos/TA04pro.jpg

[lance_5346]

I almost bought a blue edition once, but it's really not worth it.

It doesn't have the carbon stuff, is still has the flimsy FRP plates, it even still has the stock plastic shock towers. It IS just a TA04-PRO with all the blue stuff, and it don't have the universals either. Only the blue anodized parts are new.

Besides that, the Blue Ed. is a little more expensive with all the blue anodized parts, but it doesn't have the parts that you really need.

The TA04-R is a much better choice,with the carbon stuff and all or the racing hardware, or better yet, If you can save some more why not go for the TRF4141MII.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Maybe thats why its called the blue edition... if it superceeds the 04r and the 414m2 in hopped-up parts, then im sure there will be nothin blue of it... in other words, nothin special, just another stock 04r or 414m2:rolleyes:

[TRI-TURBO]

NOW THIS is what i call a CRAZY 414MII:D ...welll its sorta standerred but still :p
http://www.team-orion.ch/images/wc02tc-trf411m2-l.jpg
http://www.team-orion.ch/images/wc02tc-trf411m2-rear-l.jpg
http://www.team-orion.ch/images/wc02tc-trf411m2-front-l.jpg
I beleve this 414MII won The world 1:10 Championship

[TRF Drive Hard]

Now that, is a beautiful thing:cool:

[Babblefish]

Here's a picture of the inside of an unassembled TA04-Pro Blue Edition. Notice the included motor, TRF blue shocks, aluminum steering bellcranks, blue dish wheels, etc. This is way better than the standard TA04-Pro. Think detuned TRF414MII for about the same money as an TA04-R. I'm ordering one of these babies! By the way, this version is NOT shown on the US or Japanese Tamiya websites. :p

http://home.earthlink.net/~wjang/_uimages/MiscPhotos/TA04problue.jpg

[SpoonEK2]

Woohoo!

It's here...my new TA04R. FedEx has some trouble delivering it so i won't physically have it until tomorrow. I got official word from Tamiya USA that they discontinued the Altezza 04R. They said there were replacing it with the HKS Mercedes that is coming out. You can check that car out at: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=82999

Now all i need is a motor, ESC, batteries, and a charger. Not to mention all those accesories like oil, wiring, plugs, ca, scissors, reamers, etc... Sheesh all this stuff adds up. This is what i'm planning to get:

Motor: Trinity p2k2 pro
ESC: LRP IPC 7.1
Charger: MRC SuperBrain 959
Batteries: Peak RC3000HV Unmatched

What do you guys think? I'll get some better batts and charger when I can afford it. I'm not going to start racing for another month or so.

My last car was a HPI Nitro RS4 2 that i somehow misplaced. I can't seem to find in anywhere so that's why i got the 04R. I still have my TA02 Loctite Skyline from way back... I remember racing it in the B-main and my Dynamite Basher batteries started to dump. Man that was fun. Now i'm planning on getting serious about racing after a 5-year electric hiatus.

I have a question on the stock shock oil (#400 which i assume is 40-wt) from tamiya. How is it on a parking lot surface? Should i generally go harder or softer when running on asphalt. I know that harder is better on carpet. Also, besides the lightweight diff halves (which tear themselves up after a while) what mods are worthwhile?

Thanks,
Andy

[Babblefish]

Congratulations Spoon! You're gonna be very happy with that car.
I run on parking lots also and have had good luck with the following setups:

Front Shock:
2-hole piston w/40 weight oil
Associated yellow springs
Shock position - stock factory

Rear Shock:
3-hole piston w/40 weight oil
Associated gold springs
Shock position - stock factory

0 degree front toe
-1 degree front camber
-2 degree rear camber
Yellow front anti-sway bar
Blue rear anti-sway bar

I also use the P2K2 Pro motor. Here's my gearing:
Spur - 128T
Pinion - 35T

The Superbrain 959 is a very good budget charger. Here's mine with the addition of a cooling fan:

http://home.earthlink.net/~wjang/_uimages/MiscPhotos/959Charger.jpg

[jackhammer74]

get
-the front and rear Carbon fiber shock towers
-the aluminum spur gear holder
-the racing front hub carriers (I can't remember if these come with
the 04R.
-the rear 2 degree uprights
-low friction belts (again I can't remember if these come with the
"R" kit.
-reinforced rear gearcase.
That's all I can remember off the top of my head right now, I'm at work.
Good luck man! Like babblefish said, you're gonna love the car.

[SpoonEK2]

Hey Babblefish...How'd you do that to your Superbrain? I read your post on another thread about the fan thing, but i don't think you posted pics on how to do it. Can you share the knowledge? That looks really effective at cooling it down. Is it blowing air into the unit or sucking air out? Looks good.

Regarding the setup...will using more or less holes soften and harden the compression/rebound of the shock? Will it be like using a different weight oil? As you can see i'm really new to setup as i never even changed the setup on my other cars. Thanks for the help.

Jackhammer74: Hey i was looking on the parts list for the 04R and it includes low friction belts and the racing hubs. It doesn't come with the CF Damper Stays or the aluminum spur gear holder. I think it comes witha CF spur gear holder. I still haven't received the kit...it's sitting at my dad's mailbox. I'm going to go get it right now.

Thanks for the advice.

[Babblefish]

Spoon: Glad you like the charger mod. I just posted pictures of how I wired the fan in the other forum. The fan blows into the charger.

Having more holes in the piston is like using a lower viscosity oil. I guess the advantage in using different pistons front and rear is that you can have different dampening using the same weight oil.

BTW: The TA04-R does come with an aluminum spur gear holder. The clamp that holds the spur gear to the holder is made of CF.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Today i was racing my 04 around the hockey rink... i notice it handles the turns quite well... my friend was impressed with the way it handles too... hmm, i have the 04 pro, soon to come is the 414m2... now all i need is the hks altezza kit and the ta04-r... gosh i love this machine:D

[SpoonEK2]

Just got the kit in. It's beautiful. Now all i have to do is wait for some tools (knife, file, ca, etc...) to come in from tower to start building... I got $30 off for ordering $350 in stuff which i could never have gotten if it weren't for all the little items i bought. The superbrain is still on backorder so hopefully i'll receive that before the second week of june. Until then, all i get to do is stare at the car which isn't bad, but i know i'll be itching to drive it. The HKS body is amazing. I might pick another one of those up as well for backup ($37.99). Tamiya stuff is too expensive!!

Andy

[jackhammer74]

yeah, I wasn't to sure about those (the belts, the hubcarriers, and the spur holder, heck that's about 60 bucks right there if you buy them separately) just proves what an awesome car/deal the TA04R is.

[jackhammer74]

Hey spoon, the altezza CF body is limited edition, I would hang on to that and not use it for racing, Tamiya makes another altezza shell which is clear and you can paint it any way you want it. Or you can always get a HPI body, which are cheaper, between 22 to 26 bucks, and they look pretty good, here's one of mine.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Dude!!! is that a custom grill you have there??? if that is... dude it looks awesome:D

[SpoonEK2]

Hey jackhammer,

Yeah i'll probably use the altezza body once in a while, not to race but to bash. i don't want to crash that thing into the boards! I just want to see how cool it would look driving around an empty parking lot. If there are people there, I'm gonna use my old skyline body from my TA02. I don't want to go through the process of painting a body right now. It's one of my least favorite things to do. Maybe it's because i'm not that great at it and i lack patience. I'm not even going to use the gold Advan wheels to run. I have my old wheels and tires from the 02 so i'll use those. it looks like tower shipped my stuff today so i should be getting it in a few days...

[TRF Drive Hard]

BASH!?!?! did you say BASH!?!?! omg... all the wrong words to say... dude man you just dont "BASH" with that kinda body!!! find another one to bash with but not the Altezza!!! (crimity sakes, when will they grow up:p)

[SpoonEK2]

haha i meant drive around really slow on a very clean parking lot surface...not BASH. How about the words "exhibition laps" ...does that sound better?

[jackhammer74]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Dude!!! is that a custom grill you have there??? if that is... dude it looks awesome:D

Thanks, yeah it is custom, I used this stuff called Wireform is made by a company called Paragona, I found it at an arts and crafts store. It was like 4 or 5 bucks for a 16" x 20" sheet, it comes folded up in a package.
This stuff is really easy to cut and work with, the hardest part was carefully cutting out the body.

[MrHorspwer]

Figured I'd post up a pic of my TA04-S with it's new (not anymore) Stratus body. Today was a really rewarding day at the track... played with the setup and I think I found one I like. One lesson I did learn is not to buy another ProtoForm body. The same body you see in the pic does not look so good anymore. I have had only Tamiya bodies since this but since all the fast guys at the track were running Stratus's I'd figure I'd give it a try... plus it's a whole lot cheaper than a Tamiya body. Tamiya bodies would usully crack after 3 weeks of good hits... the ProtoForm cracked in 3 places after a days worth of light board contact. Very disappointing. A friend cracked his same body down the side(!) after a single slide into the boards(a bit harder than any of my hits). So... does anybody know of some other companies that make durable bodies... HPI maybe?

[MrHorspwer]

Another pic... sans body. TA04S own3s joo!:D

[jackhammer74]

after extensive and considerable crash testing over the last two years.:D
I've found HPI bodies to be very durable, you'll get a dud once in a while, but for the most part, they will last a long time.
I don't know about Protoform I've only had one of their bodies it's a 300M, it's been through a lot of punishment, and it's still in one piece. Maybe you got the crappy one in the batch.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by jackhammer74


Thanks, yeah it is custom, I used this stuff called Wireform is made by a company called Paragona, I found it at an arts and crafts store. It was like 4 or 5 bucks for a 16" x 20" sheet, it comes folded up in a package.
This stuff is really easy to cut and work with, the hardest part was carefully cutting out the body.

Dude thats the same stuff i have... sweet:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by SpoonEK2
haha i meant drive around really slow on a very clean parking lot surface...not BASH. How about the words "exhibition laps" ...does that sound better?

Much better:D (the thought of taking a bat and bashing it... ugh evil thoughts...:p)

[Interceptor]

Tamiya wins the Worlds!!!!! Woohooo!!!!!

Now I have to get one. I can't wait till I start my second job in July!!!

[SpoonEK2]

I could have won a TRF414MII!!!! They gave one away at the Reedy Race at Tamiya HQ. But too bad they didn't call my number.... It was supposed to be a "spectator" raffle, but I heard a "woohoo" from the pits when they called the winning ticket. That's not fair!!! I want a 414MII...

[Babblefish]

Not boasting or anything, but I thought some of you might be interested in seeing these: :D

http://home.earthlink.net/~wjang/_uimages/MiscPhotos/414cover.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjang/_uimages/MiscPhotos/414boxend.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjang/_uimages/MiscPhotos/414parts.jpg

[pkny]

the trf414m box looks way better - much more slick and s e x y :)

[TRI-TURBO]

humm i prefer the original 414M box, i don't hav any pics but from what i can remember it had a black carbon fiber patren on it, and had a handle on the top so you could easly carey it around

[SpoonEK2]

how would a TA04R compare with a TRF414MII on the track? Would it be no competition?

[ShinHed]

Babblefish

Post some more pics when it's built.

[Babblefish]

I agree with the comments about the box. The earlier one's were much sexier. This box is SMALL, about the size of a shoebox. Guess it's because this version doesn't include wheels, tires or inserts. Also, I thought the earlier versions included setup wheels and a finned (heatsink) motor mount. The motor mount on this one is just a flat piece of aluminum. Thought about using the TA04-R mount, but they're completely different. I heard that there's a second version of the TRF414MII and that one comes in a black box with more stuff included - for a higher price, of course. Would have bought that one instead if I know more about it, or if it even exists.

SpoonEK2:
Personally, I think the TA04-R would be very, very close to the 414 in a race and the winner would depend more on the driver and car setup.

[Gallen]

I really doubt it. I personally do drive a TA-04 and I think it's really not that close to a 414M at all. : P

[rcgary]

When setup right, an 04 can be right there with a 414. But you need to stick a lot more into an 04 to get it to the 414's level.

[Gallen]

what are some of these hop-ups?

[Babblefish]

Originally posted by Gallen
what are some of these hop-ups?

Mainly everything included with the TA04-R chassis. The only things its missing (and some drivers don't want or need) are the front one-way diff and center one-way pulley. Some guys like the tub chassis over the pan type chassis, so its a toss up. There are many more suspension adjustments possible with a 414, but unless you're really hardcore, a TA04 is just fine. BTW, I currently run a TA04-S with most of the "R" upgrades so I'm anxious to try my 414 when its done to compare the two.

[Gallen]

tell us when you have the results?

[SpoonEK2]

How tight do I make the grub screw that holds the sway bars in place? Also, do I have to CA the edges of the CF Upper Deck? It doesn't seem like it is in a high stress environment which would cause it to delaminate so it is really necessary? One more question...how tight should I make the ball diffs? Thanks.

[rcgary]

Here's how I set up my swaybars. I screwed the setscrews down until the bottom of the screw was even with the plastic it would eventually poke through. I then mount the front or rear case to the bottom, with the swaybar in place. I tighten one screw as I hold the swaybar up, which would allow gravity to pull it down if I let go. I tightedn the screw until the swaybay no longer moves, and back it out slightly. Once I have that side moving free, I'll do the other. It takes a bit of time, but you need to ensure the swaybar isn't binding. I also use some scotchbright and remove the paint from the center of the sway bar. Just a friction thing.

For the upper deck, don't sweat it. I've been using mine for almost 2 years, and it's fine.

Ball Diffs. Well, forst of all, use Associated Stealth lube on the balls and rings, and Black Associated lube on the thrust assembly. This will give you a super smooth diff. I have my rear diff almost locked, and I use a front one way. It all depends on your driving style. you can really tune the car through the rear diff. Just don't let it slip!

Gary

[Interceptor]

a few questions, I am getting a TA04 Pro for a really good price, and at some point, I would like to go to a TCS event and try my luck

Is the 04 190, 200, or adjustable?

will the Tamiya NSX body fit the TA04? I mean are the pre drilled holes the same?

Where is the cheapest place to get tamiya parts?

Are tamiya shock springs the only springs allowed in the TCS events? I seem to remeber hearing that others were allowed now, but I could be mistaken.

What is the best body performance wise? I really like the mercedes, and the Vette, but I don't like the Ferarri

Any other tips would be great, thanks

[ShinHed]

I'm 100% sure it not 200mm. If it's not 190mm, than its damn close. There is a spacer kit that extends the width and it comes with the Ta04r but, i'm not sure if it comes with the Pro version.

The Nsx body will fit perfectly, as a matter of fact, I need a new Nsx body:D

The cheapest place to get Tamiya parts is from overseas. I order all my part from a guy named Hiro (http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~hirofact/HOME.html) in Japan. Check out his prices; You won't be dissapointed.

For TCS rules, you might wanna check out a more racer oriented forums like RcChamp and R-C Tech Forums.

[Gallen]

ShinHed: How reliable is this HIRO guy??? his price seems to be way to low to trust? have you ever buy off him?

[Babblefish]

Originally posted by Interceptor
a few questions, I am getting a TA04 Pro for a really good price, and at some point, I would like to go to a TCS event and try my luck

Is the 04 190, 200, or adjustable?

Where is the cheapest place to get tamiya parts?

Any other tips would be great, thanks

Can't answer your other questions, but:

My TA04-R is about 183mm wide. With HPI +3 offset wheels, it's about 189mm. Not sure about the Pro.

I buy a lot of parts from www.rcboyz.com. Reasonable prices and nice people to do business with.

I would suggest getting a TA04-R instead of the Pro. The Pro is nothing more than an "S" with a fiberglass chassis. If you can get your hands on the "blue edition" Pro (not available in US), then that's a different story. Here is what is included with the "R" version and NOT in the standard Pro:

1) Aluminum threaded shocks with teflon pistons and silicone seals.

2) Aluminum heatsink motor mount.

3) Ball diffs front and rear.

4) Aluminum/CF spur gear mount (also allows using standard spurs).

5) Front and rear anti-sway bars.

6) Low friction belts.

7) Graphite reinforced suspension arms.

8) Graphite/plastic chassis tub.

9) CVD joints at all four corners.

10) Front racing hub carriers (more caster, much less slop).

The "R" is a little more expensive, but well worth it. You'd spend MUCH more if you were to try and upgrade the Pro. The "blue edition" Pro comes with most of the "R" upgrades plus a Tamiya super stock motor, dish wheels and aluminum steering arms. Not sure if the chassis is fiberglass or CF though. I'm getting mine through a hobby shop in Hong Kong.

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by Gallen
ShinHed: How reliable is this HIRO guy??? his price seems to be way to low to trust? have you ever buy off him?

I've had over 8 different orders with him and never a problem. The prices are so low because, that's how much Tamiya parts are supposed to cost. The price for Tamiya hop-up parts are printed on the package in Japanese Yen and if you convert it to the US Dollar, you will see that we pay way to much in the states.

If you don't see what parts you need, e-mail him and he can get them at the same low prices.

[rcgary]

The 04 is "190mm", i.e., it's a narrow electric standard width chassis, not 200mm like a nitro sedan.It may not be the absolute cheapest place, but buy your parts from your Local Hobby Shop. Without the LHS, we have no-where to race. I've been running my 04 pro for about two years now. It's basically been updated to "R" status. Rule wise, every part you use MUST MUST MUST be a Tamiya product (electronics, connectors, and inserts are open). To be honest with you, I race my car week in and week out against XXXs's, TC3's, Missions, and X-Rays in TCS trim. The only exception is the Tires (Pits Shimitzu's), and sometimes I'll run a Protoform Stratus body. Otherwise, I run the Corvette if it's a high-speed track with pleanty of grip, or the Modena if it's a lower speed track where I need more rear grip. The Penzoil R34 Nissan is a decent body too, very neutral. BUT, the Nissan is a heavier body, and more likely to get dammaged in a crash, as the lexan is more brittle. There are weeks though where I will run Tamiya A's or B's, depending on the track. This car is more then capable of competing against the "mainstream" cars. The only thing is to remember you will probabilly be the only one running this car, so you'll need to know how to set the chassis up properly.

A few mistakes on the parts on the pro as previously posted. The pro does come with front and rear ball diffs, and the molded spur gear mount will also accept US spurs. Front and reay sway bars are included with the kit too. I'm not positive of this, but I do not believe the "R" comes with the Graphite Injected arms. Good Luck

Gary :cool:

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by rcgary
...It may not be the absolute cheapest place, but buy your parts from your Local Hobby Shop. Without the LHS.......
Gary :cool:

Hmm? Buy my parts from my LHS!?! Thats a joke! Should I pay $49.99 for some arms through my LHS and wait a whole month for the parts to come in or should I order from the net and get them in 1-2 weeks for $22.95? No, no, how about waiting another month for some turnbuckle cups and having to pay $9.99 for them instead of $3.00. My Hobby Shop can rot.

The 04 may be considered 190mm but, its not quite as wide.

[MrHorspwer]

I agree with ShinHed... to a point. My LHS sucks at Tamiya parts. Everything you could ever want for a TC3, XXXS, or Pro 3... minimal Tamiya parts. They have actually told me not to order parts through them... they realize it's not economical for me and a hassle for them. Everything else come from the LHS though. Their prices are close to anything I can find online and it's always in stock... no waiting for shipping.

[Rza]

i email hiro and this is what he told me.

58290 1/10 RC TOYOTA MR-S RACING (TA04-SS) ($128.00) Now on Sale
58291 1/10 RC HKS CLK (TA04-R) ($225.00) June 27th
58293 1/10 RC BEAMS INTEGRA (TL-01LA) ($105.00) July
53494 TA04 LIGHTWEIGHT CARBON LOWER DECK ($27.00) July

Hiro

and he charges $39 for shipping on the kits

i cant wait for the HKS CLK or at least the new carbon lower deck.

[ole]

i have a new TA-O4R what spur and pinnion gear combination do you suggest for this following motors? 11T DOUBLE, 13T DOUBLE, 19T, P2K2 PRO, TAMIYA TYPE T & R.

[M 5]

Talking about prices, this store, www.asiatees.com has some really good prices too.

[ole]

Originally posted by ole
i have a new TA-O4R what spur and pinnion gear combination do you suggest for this following motors? 11T DOUBLE, 13T DOUBLE, 19T, P2K2 PRO, TAMIYA TYPE T & R.

[Interceptor]

anyone have any sites with race winning set up sheets for the 04R?

[Gallen]

try this!
http://www.mpowered-racing.com/ta0tamnoramc.html

[Interceptor]

Thanks, another question I need a quick answer to:

Are there different universal joints for the front and rear of the car? I am trying to put a list together at tower, and I have run across what looks like 3 different part numbers for universal joints. Can some one suggest what part number I need? Thanks again.

[ShinHed]

It might be the separate parts of the universals for sale like these parts at Hiro's (http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~hirofact/HOME.html)

53499 Wheel Axles for Assembly Universal Shaft $6.40
for TA04R,414M,TB Evo2(use with 53500,53501)


http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~hirofact/TA04/OP499.jpg

53500 Cross Joints for Assembly Universal Shaft $4.00
for TA04R,414M,TB Evo2(use with 53499,53501)

http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~hirofact/TA04/OP500.jpg

53501 42mm Swing Shafts for Assembly Universal Shaft $8.00
for 414M,TB Evo2(use with 53499,53500)

[jackhammer74]

Hey Shinhed, I thought the swingshafts for the TA04 were supposed to be 41mm.
Also does Hiro have the whole universal set in stock?
My LHS has one in stock, just one, but they want, get this 45 bucks for it. There will be a cold day in hell before I spend that much there. TA04 parts are ridiculous @ my LHS, in fact all Tamiya parts are ridiculous.
This really sucks cause 95% of the kits they sell are Tamiya and the racing series they run of course is mostly Tamiya cars. So if you brake a part on race day and you want to continue, guess what? I'll just leave it at that 'cause, I could go on about them for a while.:mad: :mad:

[ShinHed]

I didn't see any on his site but, you can always ask him. If you buy all three separate universal parts bags, you can get a set for a steal at, $18.40.:cool:

[Interceptor]

Got my 04 pro today. Question, can I use after market spurs with this car, or do I have to get an adapter? Thanks.

[rcgary]

Aftermarket spurs are 100% compatable with the 04 without any adaptor needed.

[jackhammer74]

Hey interceptor, use 64 pitch Robinson's you won't be disappointed.

[rcgary]

Stick with 48. Even with the carbon/aluminum spur gear hub, I would still strip 64 pitch gears. Kimbourough or Robinson are both good.

[Interceptor]

Well, just got done building my Proand test driving it. Mannn..... This thing is sweet!!!! I threw in the only gear I have right now, a P2k pro, LRP7.1, JR reciever, and hobbico high torque servo. I used 60wt oil in front and 50wt in the rear. the springs and everything else is stock. I used a set of HPI treaded tires for the parking lot of my apartment. The gearing was stock, 120 spur 40 pinion. I installed the heat sink motor mount as well. I couldn't get my 2400 side by side pack to fit, so I used a spec pack. This thing is ballistic. I ran for around 5 minutes and the motor was very warm, but you could still hold your finger on it with out getting burned. It was smooth accerating, and the told speed was way better than my TC3. I didn't have a body for it, so I just ran it around until the battery started to drop off. The car is very responsive, even with the slow servo. I can't wait to put stiffer springs on it. I want to figure out a better way to place the equipment on the chassis, it seems a bit cramped. My first impression was that I love this car. Now I can't wait to get my 414!

My one major complaint was that the turnbuckles don't have a square part in the middle for easy adjusting. I will have to fix that real soon. Tomorrow I will throw it on the Hudy gauges and get it all lined up properly.

This car rocks!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey Mikey... he likes it... he really like it:D

[jackhammer74]

Hey rcgary that's odd that you've been stripping spur gears even with the aluminum spur holder. I've been running 64 pitch for about a year and a half. I have only had the aluminum holder for a couple months, at any rate with or without the aluminum holder I'm yet to strip a single spur.
Are you sure you're meshing them correctly?

[rcgary]

Yup.I've run 64-pitch for years on other cars, but this one will chew them up. Now, I do race on carpet, and because of the traction provided, I think the drivetrain is under more stress then on asphalt. I believe the problem lies in the plastic arches that supports the layshaft itself. I believe this can still flex, vs the 414's arches which are machines aluminum.

Interceptor, I feel your pain on the turnbuckles. I thought the same thing when building my Pro, i.e., if it's a pro, what are these damn threaded rods doing here. I picked up a set of the steel turnbuckles for the 04S and installed them. Tamiya also has a complete Titanium set too, but at a higher cost. As far as the 2400's go, it's the cells man. I even have problem with these cells in my Deans battery jig. Just another reason to go big (3000's) or go home :D

[Interceptor]

Nah. what won't fit in the battery holder is the wires coming off one side of the battery. I guess I am going to have to add some deans bars and bend tabs to solder the esc right to the bat. Crap, now that means I have to go get a better soldering iron. My little 40watt won't get the heat on fast enough.

[Interceptor]

hey, what is the deal with the racing body mounts?

[jackhammer74]

The racing mounts are basically more spread out towards the front and back of the car, the fronts actually come out of the front bumper. they give the body a little more rigidity and keep the nose from folding or flapping.

[rcgary]

They're a great investment. It will help keep the wheel wells from crakcing as the nose of the body is better supported.

Gary K.

[TRF Drive Hard]

This will reduce body flutter from the front... ever hear that "thud thud thud" we'll thats me goin at high speeds around the corner with my 04:p

[Interceptor]

Ok, another problem, I see by the add in RCCA for the 414 that the car has a side by side pack installed, and the esc wires soldered to the bats. My 2400s are side by side, but I cannot get them to side into the battery holder with the wires on, and I tried soldering on taps like in the pick, but there still isn't any room and the battery will not slide in. I am sure some of you guys have a way around this. I was thinking of taking the dremel to the mounts and cutting some of the ridges out that are getting in the way, but that might make my stick packs fit to loose. What have you guys done? I figure it will be the same with the 414 when it gets here.

[Albertt]

...that spans the two rear bulkheads (that house the rear diff)? I noticed on the TRF pictures posted here that there is a finned aluminum piece that acts as this bridge. When I purchased my TA04 (with the Calsonic Nissan body), there was no bridge. I cut an aluminum post (from an old HPI Pro), wedged it in there and bolted it in. Do any of the other TA04 kits come with this "bridge" piece? Was it just left out of my model?

Another question I have concerns the aluminum motor plate. Does the upgraded "finned" heatsink really improve cooling of the motor in the TA04? I used to run off road and had the A&L finned motor plate for my Lazer, and with the 14 turn modified motor, there seemed to be no difference with or without the finned motor plate.

Sorry for the newbie type questions...I'm a newbie here.

Thanks
AL

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by Albertt
...it in there and bolted it in. Do any of the other TA04 kits come with this "bridge" piece?.........

Sorry for the newbie type questions...I'm a newbie here.

Thanks
AL

That's not a Ta04, it's Surikarns Worlds winning TRF414MII.

[rcgary]

The brace that you speak of is avaliable in the Reinforced gear case set. It is also included with the TA04R. I have an 04 Pro, 04S, and an 04SS, and none of them included this brace. It is not finned like the one on the 414, but it serves the same purpose. If you are going to run in any of the TCS races, the custom support you made is not legal, but for weekly racing it is fine.

Yes, the finned heat sink will help to disapate heat better. It is also a thicker material that will resist flexing better.

Interceptor, For 2400's, I had to trim my battery cups before I got my saddle pack chassis. The real bummer is that 2400's don't sit in the tub chassis very well either. The solution for that is easy: Run 3000's. You'll get better performance out of them anyway (IMHO)

Gary K.

[Albertt]

RcGary: Is the reinforced gear set simply the two case halves, plus this additional bridging bracket?

I don't enter any sanctioned races like the TCS...only local parking lot events.

I was surprised that Tamiya left out a simple little piece of plastic and two screws that would have helped so much.

ShinHed: Sorry, I will try and be more accurate in my posts.

Thanks fellas.

AL

[rcgary]

It also includes a bearing as a guide under the diff for additional belt tension. Also, the kit includes a plastic "tube" to take up the space between the outer bearing and the layshaft. The new seup replaces that tube with a bearing and a shim.

The brace is actually a piece of blue annodized aluminum.

GaryK

[Albertt]

My LHS seems to be good in terms of prices, but they never have it in store...so I end up waiting quite a while sometimes.

[rcgary]

Greenfield News and Hobby, my LHS. If they don't have it, they get it within 2 days.

GK

[crayon]

Anybody know the part number of the battery holders of the tub chassis? I have a Pro BE and changed my lower deck to a Carbon reinforced tub (with batt slots) and I've noticed a change in handling.........its so much better:D

[ShinHed]

If you don't have the manual that came with the kit, try Tamiya's web pages and look at the PDF file for your chassis or the "RC Item & Parts List".

For Parts List
http://www.tamiya.com/english/e-home.htm

For PDF
http://www.tamiyausa.com/

If you teach a man a fish....:D

[CarterTG]

Just a new TA04 Pro owner checking in... bought it NIB from a private seller for around what a TL01 would've cost, but figured this kit would provide more room to grow and out of the box has more adjustability.

No hard-core racing plans for this kit. It'll probably get equipped with a MC330CR ESC and a P2K-2 Pro. Since returning to this hobby, I've been seeking a "universal" 1:10th scale chassis to fit some shells on.

The only immediate upgrade I'm planning at this point is probably the 53426 Racing Body Mounts. Performance upgrades will be considered when my skills improve. B)

[MrHorspwer]

I finally made it back to the track w/ my TA04-S. Picked up a set of front & rear sway bars, a new ESC, and a new controller since the last time. WOW. Having brakes coming into a turn is great. A little fine tuning with springs(Ft-White, Rr-Blue) and sway bars(Ft-Blue, Rr-Red) had me pretty well set. A fellow with a FT TC3 and I were running just about the same lap times... me on HPI X-Patterns and a worn out Trinity Midnight, him on foams and a new P2K2. He was geared WAY too high for the track though, I jumped on him coming outta corners. All in all, a good experience building trip.

[Albertt]

Anyone have any tips. I'm rebuilding the diffs and was wondering if anyone had anything special they've done with the diffs. Also, what diff lube and thrust grease do you guys/gals recommend?

Thanks
AL

[LokiOs]

I just read an article about the Tamiya TAO4-ss Toyota MR-s. I have never raced or owned any type of on road car, I am strictly an off road guy. But I want to get into on roan racing, and I don't like to be like everyone else. I was thinking about getting a tamiya car, and this one sounds really good. What sort of after market parts would I need to get for this? How about tires? Will this car be competitive with all the Losi's and AE cars? Also what size bodies go on this car? I see 190mm bodies and 200mm bodies but I do now know if they are all interchangable or if each car is specific? Thanks for any and all help.

[Albertt]

The reason I ask is that on Tamiya's website, a setup sheet can be downloaded for the TA04-Pro. It indicates that for the DynaRun Touring motor, a 120 tooth spur and 38 tooth pinion should be used. I'm recently switching from a P2K to a 19T Triple (Team Orion ProBB) and was wondering what pinion and spur to use. Can I use this TA04-Pro setup sheet as a guide. THe ratio they indicate for the DynaRun Touring motor is 120/38 or 3.16:1. I have a Kimbrough 93 tooth (48 pitch) spur now. Should I stick with this spur/pinion ratio?

Thanks
AL

[CarterTG]

Finally built my TA04 Pro this past Friday. Tried to finish it in time for an event the next day so managed to reach the last assembly step within 7 hours of starting. The event was nixed due to rain, but regardless I had a running chassis.

The only upgrades so far are:
#53456 Turnbuckle Upper Arm Set - for camber adjustment all around. #53426 Racing Body Mounts - to reach parity with the TRF414's body mounts.


I also had the Turnbuckle Tie Rods on the list, but it got backordered and didn't arrive in time.

This chassis inherited the FP-2PEKA FM from my M04L. And is now powered with a SpeedGem2 19turn Quad through a MC330CR ESC. It's first run on pavement was simply amazing! The car felt extremely stable... good forward tracking and predictable in the turns. I'm running a very stock 120spur and 40 pinion. The motor BARELY gave a hint that it was getting warm.

[CarterTG]

The only thing that really needs attention is the belt seems a bit tight. I didn't even install the tension pulley yet. Compared to a friend's TRF414MII, mine seems to have the tightness of the lowest guitar string (E?)

It's my first belt-drive on-road racer, so I don't know what's normal. The lower chassis only has countersunk holes... no slotted ones so it doesn't look like I can loosen up the belt tension any more.

Yeah, I know about trimming those body posts...

[Albertt]

And is now powered with a SpeedGem2 19turn Quad through a MC330CR ESC...I'm running a very stock 120spur and 40 pinion. The motor BARELY gave a hint that it was getting warm.

You're TA04-pro came with a 120 tooth spur? I thought that they would be the same as the TA04...like mine...came with a 83 tooth spur. It's good to know that your motor barely broke a sweat. How was the ESC holding up? I plan on running a 19T triple, with my current 93 tooth (Kimbrough) spur. I thought that I would need a 25 tooth pinion, but after seeing your setup, I'm thinking that I might be fine with a 31 tooth.

The only thing that really needs attention is the belt seems a bit tight. I didn't even install the tension pulley yet. Compared to a friend's TRF414MII, mine seems to have the tightness of the lowest guitar string (E?)

I replaced my torn up stock belt with the Low Friction Belt and noticed this too. I figure it's ok to just let it wear in and stretch out on it's own.

[CarterTG]

mine came with a 83 tooth spur

I should clarify that my TA04-Pro kit came with 3 spur gears that are spec'd as the 04 type. I've only been previously accustomed to the 32/48/64 pitch varieties and have no idea if 04 is an intentional proprietary standard or if it's just Tamiya's marketing talk for 64-pitch.

Since I don't want to risk it, I'll probably seek out gears listed as "04".

The three spurs provided are 128T, 120T, and 112T. Only one 40-tooth aluminum pinion gear was provided. The picture above should give you a general idea if my gear pitch is the same as those in earlier TA04 kits.

The MC330CR is rated for 13turns, so my 19t SpeedGem should hardly be any challenge for it. The ESC is nice and tiny. It fits without overhanging from the chassis.

[jackhammer74]

I've only been previously accustomed to the 32/48/64 pitch varieties and have no idea if 04 is an intentional proprietary standard or if it's just Tamiya's marketing talk for 64-pitch.

Actually 04 is metric. It's close to 64 pitch, but it won't mesh perfectly.
What I did myself, was to switch to Robinson's 64 pitch spurs and pinions, they're of high quality, cheaper and easy to find.

[kayrin]

Hello,

Does anyone has problem fitting a smaller pinion gear on TA04? I got a TA04-R. the hole on the heat sink seems to be too small. I am trying to fit a 28/128 64 pitch combination. is there a trick or?

[Albertt]

The motor plate's slots for the motor screws are a bit shorter compared to other cars. I'm having the same problem, except in an inverse sense. I'm currently running a 96 tooth spur and a 28 tooth pinion (48 pitch) for a ratio of 3.42:1 with my 19 turn motor. CarterTG is running a 120/40 (64 pitch) for a ratio of 3:1 with his 19 turn so I figured that I could do the same. But in order for me to do so, I would need a 31 tooth pinion which is too large. I'm currently trying to find a 93 tooth spur gear. I suggest that you try to find a larger spur gear for your situation.

[CarterTG]

Took it over to a local HobbyTown this past Saturday and participated in only one heat against two other electric on-roads... one a bit faster than me, one just a bit slower.

My last competitive "race" was using my M04L over 8 months ago. So not only was racing new to me again, but so was this chassis! I wasn't even on the starting line when the green flag was dropped, but the other two tangled into turn 1 and I caught up. I was still feeling out the drift of the 24mm stock slicks throughout most of the race. I ate a few of the PVC pipes in the zig-zag chicanes, but then so did the fast opponent. He'd inch up ahead of me in the back straightaway, but he'd still eat a chicane pipe throughout -- whereas I got more successful at avoiding them.

Despite my newbie driving, the TA04 remained tank-tough and forged ahead like a trooper.

The fast car bit it somewhere along the track outside my peripheral vision and had to limp back to the pits with a suspension piece dangling along side it.

About a lap later, the slow car started limping too... maybe his battery dumped, but he did continue several laps; just MUCH slower.

I just hung in for a few more laps before having the checkered flag drop on me. It wasn't a pretty win, but I guess I'll take it.

So now that I've tasted some competition, I can look back and draw on the data gathered... first off, the stock slicks, while apparently fine on my street felt more slippery at this particular parking lot. If I race again, my first choice would be to try a set of foams.. otherwise, I'll resort to HPI pro compound slicks... unless anyone thinks a set of X-patterns might cut it.

The night before, I upgraded to the Racing Hub Carrier and had not done ANY practicing with it. I was running at almost zero camber and the car was oversteering a bit. I plan to tone it down to maybe -1° camber.

Finally, the 19turn was undergeared... I think I could sacrifice a bit more acceleration for top-end... I certainly had PLENTY of juice left over after a 5 minute race. Otherwise, I might try to max my MC330CR with a 13-turn motor -- but I'm not too thrilled about diving into the world of comm lathes.

Also, you guys might want to check the TA04 Pro manual just posted over at TamiyaClub. Toward the last pages, Tamiya has a chart on gearing possibilities with the car. Some of the blank areas are presumably because the pinion and spur won't fit with the existing motor plate.

Here's a pic of my bone-stock gearing for Albertt...

[Albertt]

Congrats on the win and thanks for the pic. It looks as though you can go to a 42 or 43 tooth pinion with the room left on the motor screw slots.

I'm on the hunt for a 93 tooth spur gear. Otherwise, I might just be a copycat and go with 64 pitch gears like you have and not have to deal with that.

One recommendation based on my experiences, if and when you feel like spending the dough, get the aluminum spur gear mount. Perhaps it was because I was running the car ragged (on dirt baseball fields with small pebbles) but I managed to warp the OE plastic spur gear mount. Also, I notice on other cars running faster modified motors that the pin slot on the back of the spur gear adapter begins to plastically deform. Just a thought.

EDIT: Forgot to ask ya, how do set the mesh for those gears? Any special trick? I used to run 64 pitch gears for a brief time when I had a RS4Pro and had a really difficult time setting the mesh. This is why I was so reluctant to go with the 64 pitch gears for my TA04 when I replaced the OE spru gear.

Thanks for the help.
AL

[kayrin]

Albertt, thanx for the reply. it was too late though. I already cut the metal plate, so, it will fit anything now. even 24/115 will fit on there. =) thanks anyway. =)

[CarterTG]

Originally posted by Albertt
..how do set the mesh for those gears?

I didn't really have any guidance in setting the mesh, so I simply figured that there should at LEAST be a gap the width of paper or something....

With the motor still loose, I used my finger to MASH the Pinion and Spur gear close together... Then I made them rotate on each other... I took a scrap piece of sheet plastic (one of the metal-screw baggies) and made the two gears "eat" the thin sheet. I tightened the motor into the mount and then backed the plastic out.

If I knew what I was doing and wanted to be even more precise about it, I probably wou