Ofna Monster Pirate Forum

[32sport]

I`ve looked everywhere but I cant find info on making your own starter rod for the MP, I`m sure I saw it on here somewhere, can anyone help, please?

[fezzy]

FrankT, Definetely go for a 14t bell and 62t spur, It should be a good gearing for low end power.... What pipe are you using???.

32Sport, I thought you sold your MP and Dom?? Anyway.. It has been done to make a Hyper Drillstart. Here is the post on midman.com's Forums explaining how it is done.

http://www.midmad.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=1468

[vikingdave21]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by drader
I was running my MP for the first time today... the thing screams, but after a few short runs - not even jumping - just pavement/hard dirt stuff I snapped a front CVD at the bone/head end. My question is - is the problem the short diff cups, or the lack of slipper? Will getting a slipper help protect the drivetrain? I don't want to lose the clown tires just yet! And by the way - the Hyper 8 port is *magical*! [/QUOTE


drader, what carb settings do you use on your 8 port . just wondering


thanks]

[Coconut]

Has anyone else modified a Hudy set-up to work with the 17mm hubs. I did and found that the rear camber was like 1/2 dgreee toe-in on right side and 1 1/2 degress toe-in on left side. I finally got them both to 1 1.2 dgreees by shaving the right bulk where the gear case was bottoming against the bulk. It is at the front out put bearing area and the rear brake mount. The small round area of the inside of brake mount. I sure wish the rear was adjustable. With the warping that occurs when taking plastic parts out of molds; adjustments of rear toe are needed.

[Meesh]

I need a smaller spur gear for my .70 powered MP. The .70 doesn't turn fast enough to give any speed with that big (65Tooth?) Spur gear.

Does anyone know what other gears will fit the center spool??

[Coconut]

delete

[Coconut]

The Dom has a 62. Changing the bell gear will have a greater effect.

[Meesh]

I have to change both. I have no room to move the engine to allow for a larger diameter bell. I first need to make the Spur smaller then I can grow the bell.

[mpfreek]

Originally posted by losi
Wut do u think about the monster pirate RTR i have a mp and it rocks

[anothermbdusted]

ok ill ask this since i dont want to search what is the differnence in the dominator and the mp? other then tires?

[32sport]

32Sport, I thought you sold your MP and Dom?? Anyway.. It has been done to make a Hyper Drillstart. Here is the post on midman.com's Forums explaining how it is done.

Thanks Dude, no I never sold the trucks, just messed about with some 1/5 scale saloons for a few months, the novelty wore off, but I`m still mad about Monster Trucks, so I sold the 1/5 stuff.
Thanks for the link

[fezzy]

Dominator Differences:
Slipper Clutch
Hyper7 Rear Shocks F/R
4mm Thick Rear Tower
4mm Thick Tall Front Tower
MT3 Rims/Tyres
Improved Fuel Tank Design
New Bodyshell

Gearing - Stock MP Gearing is 12t bell 65t Plastic Spur, Dominator gearing is 13t bell and 62t steel spur.

Meesh, There are only two spur gears available for the MP/Dom Running a Single Speed, If you run a 2-Speed there are 3 different gearsets you can run and 3 different clutchbells. For Single speed though you can either have a 65t MP Plastic Spur or a 62t Dominator Steel Spur, What I'd advise to you is to get the 62t Steel Spur and get a bigger clutchbell, Standard Dom bell is 13t so you may want to try a 15t with all that power.

[anothermbdusted]

thanks fezzy

[FrankT]

Hi fezzy I ordered the hyper 8 port and the Paris AL650 pipe.on that gearing wear can I order it do happen to have any nunber's..

Thanks Frank

[FrankT]

I just thought I let everyone no that I just got done talking to Ace about the hinge pins, he said the replacement ones that he gets for the dominator are the same as the pirate and are not long enough.what to now..what about Lunford brand does anyone no about them..
Thanks

[fezzy]

FrankT, Your best off speaking to Ace Hobbies (http://www.ace-hobbies.com)

[FrankT]

I did...and thats what they told me

[fezzy]

I meant about the gearing :D

[FrankT]

Oh sorry fezz

[PCC]

Frank, what my buddy did was he installed the longer hingepins through two of the front shock towers (double the towers = less bent shock towers) and he put about a 1/4" fo fuel tubing on the excess hingepin on the back end to hold the pin in place relative to the chassis.

[T-Maxxahol]

here are some pics of parts I have been working on.. Yes those are the Proline bulks... lol... Everything bling bling... lol.. check it out...

[ExtremeRCR]

On the subject of longer hinge pins.l You do not need to buy longer hinge pins! Just go to a LHS and buy 2 5/32nd ring collets (SP?). Use one E clip and slide the collet on the hinge pin between the slots on the bulkhead.

[jives]

I just used a extra set of bottom ones on top, yeah they are longer but it doesn't effect it any way I can tell.

[FrankT]

so I just need set of bottom ones....or just I just order the diff supports #18019 listed in an earlier post...
Thanks

[T-Maxxahol]

pics

[rc/guitarman69]

Hey has any one put a throttle retrun spring on a Monster pirate?
If so can you help me out. I cant find out how to hook it up. If any body has a pic that would be sweet! Thanks!

[toddzilla]

hook it around the fuel inlet nipple and onto the ball on the slide.


i hate waiting for parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

[rc/guitarman69]

On the carb? If so i tried that and its not strong enough i guess my servos are to strong LOL. Any idea? Or should i just by a stonger spring? Thanks!

[Coconut]

Personally;I think its better to run a failsafe and only use a return spring strong enough to return carb to idle if linkage fails. Otherwise be sure and run a good coreless servo as they return smoother than the cheaper servos.

[rcracerguy]

Has anyone had problems rounding out the end on the diff where the drive cups go on? I've lock tightened mine with blue threadlocker. Evertime I check them they are tight,but they are still rounging the ends out. Any answers? I probily have to get new one,but I don't want to keep buying them. You think a slipper would help? I don't realy want to pay that much for a slipper when I'm not hurting any of my gears. Oh yeah I am just running the stock Hyper 7. So there isn't to much power there.

[cxdxh]

i just had to buy a pair. also i just got done putting on my 9.5 side guards (yes, you heard right) i figured it would look cool and also keep out some mud. also, im think about getting a .40 from OS to put in my dominator. anyone seen this done? thanks

[Coconut]

Not su8re what your describing. If it's the diff drive shafts and your rounding the flats then they are moving from shock probably. It's landing on the jumps that gives the most strain;especially if you are correcting with throttle.

[morfracerX]

www.geocities.com/ssrcparts/ofna.htm

i just got these hubs today, they allow you to mount t-maxx wheels on the MP & DOM they look freaking great. I will try and give you guys an update as soon as i can.

These things really look great

[FrankT]

hi cxdxh those side guards fit ok on the monster pirate??? and do you have a part # for them.
Thanks

[cxdxh]

the part number is 19173 i think and also you can get them in all kind of colors. i got mine in red. you have to do some work with the dremel to get them to get on right but they look pretty nice when done. which collet would i have to use for the .40? thanks

[FrankT]

for the collet I'm not to familar with the four stroke set up...Sorry.
Thanks for the part #
Frank

[Coconut]

Originally posted by morfracerX


www.geocities.com/ssrcparts/ofna.htm

i just got these hubs today, they allow you to mount t-maxx wheels on the MP & DOM they look freaking great. I will try and give you guys an update as soon as i can.

These things really look great

I guessif you have alot of T% Maxx tires they are ok;but that is alot of extra rotating mass and T maxx wheels are not as storng especially the hex area.

[cxdxh]

i got mine in today and they widen the dom or mp just about by an inch, not bad considering that the dom already handles awesome......

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by Coconut
I guessif you have alot of T% Maxx tires they are ok;but that is alot of extra rotating mass and T maxx wheels are not as storng especially the hex area.

I'M NOT GOING TO USE THE STOCK T MAXX TIRES, I AM GOINING TO RUN WITH THE PROLINE RIMS AND THEY ARE MUCH STRONGER THEN THE MT3'S. with all of the aftermarket wheels made for the maxx line finding a high end wheel will be no problem (sorry about the caps**)

and the wider track is just a very nice bonus

[T-Maxxahol]

ANY OF U GUYS IN THE UK OR JAPAN.. I am looking for some nice Hoa Boa stickers.. for my Mp hybrid.. lmk if u have acces to any I will pay your shipping costs.. and anything else there might be..thanks......

[Coconut]

Actuallyof the maxx wheels available I likemost on MaxxTraxx forum found the Pro-line Maxx wheels to be very weak in hex area. The stock Traxxas wheels are the strongest plastic. Because of the basic smaller hex none are ideal for high power .21 use;thus the popularity of aluminum wheels for.21 maxxes. I have seen no problem with the MT3 or heard of any. Any way good luck.

[cxdxh]

Are Titans made by Pro-Line? hmmm,....

[fezzy]

RPM Racing Products make the Titan wheels.

[vikingdave21]

how do you insert a pic.

[vikingdave21]

finished my monster

[cmracing]

Hey guys, I know most people put the Dominator front shock tower on the Monster Pirate to help with the bulkhead breakage problem since it helps support the hinge pins in the front. I thought I saw in a picture of someones truck a small piece of aluminum that connected the upper hinge pins on the front of the truck together too, on the backside of the bulkheads. Does anyone remember seeing this too? This way the front and rear of the hinge pins would be tied together.

[Meesh]

Some one somewhere Has posted how to convert a Hyper .21 to drill start. I'm not sure if it was on this forum or not. Can anyone direct me to the post???


TIA

[fezzy]

Here ya go Meesh, http://www.midmad.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=1468

I just broke my P/S and i wanted to convert to drill start, Don't think i could do it though... :(

[Meesh]

I had seen that post. The w ay it is described it won't work. If you turn the shaft around so the long end sticks out the short end is not long enough to engage the one way bearing.

Thanks for trying. I appreciate the help.

[MMTM]

If you really want to run Maxx tires and rims then you should try this ;)

Still working on it but I'm waiting till I get some Jeep work done before I spend more on this.

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/hybrid/hybrid34.JPG

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/hybrid/hybrid35.JPG

[toddzilla]

isn't the idea of driving r/c cars based on the fact that they are cheaper to use??? you guys are nuts!!!!

[MMTM]

I've never based my interest in a hobby on the price. If I did, R/C would be far from the first one I would drop. I'm getting some new tires for my Jeep (36x12.5s) used for $400. Motors, axles, tranny & t-case, I could spend more money on any of those parts than my whole R/C costs.... And I have too. ;)

I drive and build b/c its fun!

[jives]

Originally posted by toddzilla
isn't the idea of driving r/c cars based on the fact that they are cheaper to use??? you guys are nuts!!!!

HA HA Newbies..;) J/king :D

I've spent more on my R/Cs in the last 2 years then your average used Car...then again I spent more on my computers in the last 3 years then on my new Taurus SES :) Silly priorities.

[toddzilla]

i'm not saying i'm afraid to spend money, it just seems kind of stupid to put 1500 dollars in ONE r/c vehicle..

i have in the past, run a street/strip '70 nova with 7 grand in the running gear alone, but it was a real car that i drove every day and had a blast with.. r/c is fun for sure, but it is a far, far distant second to actually driving a high powered car.

to each his own, i say.. if it makes you happy go for it :D

[whatever]

it's ironic that you criticize someone for spending alot on there interest and then say to each his own.it would almost be the same to say nothing at all.i have a freind that dumps a ton of money into his jet ski then wonders why i spend so much on r/c.neither of us will get rich spending or money on either interest so it's all moot.:eek:

[Coconut]

I reaaly wouldn't spend 1500 on one Rc either but that's just me. If a guy wants to then that's his business;as far as I'm concerned. Some guys just get a kick-out of have every new performance item that comes out. I use to be that way;until I realised the fast guys make little changes and work on set-up and driving. Everyone seems to go thru the new items will make me much faster stage.

[MMTM]

I just got tired if breaking suspension arms on my MP. I never had trouble with it untill I installed the Collari. After that I broke 2 front upper arms, 1 rear arm, and 2 Ofna super shocks in 1 day!. Robin (monstermaxx) comes down to my track and beats the poop out of his Rody non-stop and hardley ever breaks parts (the occasional spur gear). I already had the chassis bomb-proof w/ SaBR parts so instead of just installing Ofna's stock replacement aluminum arms and went a step up. ;)

[fezzy]

MMTM, You only break those kinds of parts when you crash! Maybe the difference between you both isn't in the trucks but the driver?. Just thinking aloud :D

[MMTM]

I'll agree at least 50/50 on that statement. When I upgraded to the Collari the extra power on tap (vs. the hyper 21) takes a bit of getting used to. In this case the power only caused 2 of the broken parts, the rear arm and 1 shock. The other 2 parts just shattered on impact from a clean landing after about 10' high x 40' jumps. It was the strangest thing. I'm thinking I got it clean and all the sudden the front wheel falls over :rolleyes:

MonsterMaxx has a lot more wheel time at the track than I do (odd, considering I run the track and its a 3hr drive for him :p ) but I'm getting there. This way I can keep the truck in 1 piece untill my driving catches back up w/ my truck! :D

[jives]

Originally posted by toddzilla
i'm not saying i'm afraid to spend money, it just seems kind of stupid to put 1500 dollars in ONE r/c vehicle..

I think I'm into my 1/5th scale for just over 1k, my super with all the upgrades/parts/bodies, lets just say it's more than the 1/5th scale as it sits it's less than the 1/5th scale.

I'd spend it if I had it, I've gotten my MP to a pretty duriable setup but if I was once again breaking parts regularly I'd be investing in more durable parts as well.

[toddzilla]

i guess mostly i made that statement because i went to a "bash in the park" last month and there were alot of t-maxx guys there that had ridiculous amounts of money in thier trucks, one guy had 2500 in his, and i heard of another that put 1400 in his before he even drove it. very few people around here race monster trucks, it's mostly 1/10 gas trucks and 1/8 buggies, so for a basher it just seems extreme to me. but hey, if you have the money go for it, it's not like it bothers me or anything. it's just hard to understand is all i was trying to say, i wasn't trying to criticize, i just worded it wrong to begin with.

[fezzy]

I went to one of my LHS's today, One I haven't been to before and just came in this morning was a MP, it was fantastic.... H7 Rear Shocks F/R, Dom Front Tower/Chassis Braces, 2-Speed, 8-Port Hyper21... Basically a Dom w/2-Speed and 8-Port. It had MP Meats!, It looked VERY nice indeed, They didn't know much about it tough, I'm going to see if i can go help them and maybe pick up a job!!! :D

[Claude B]

Originally posted by PCC
I know, I know, this isn't the T-Maxx nor the Savage forums, but has anyone ever gotten their Monster Pirate to wheelie? I don't mean bouncing it from a jump and gunning the throttle, I mean from a standstill. I'm just curious if anyone has and what engine they are running. Also, what mods, if any, were done to get this to happen.

I'm thinking of getting a MP or a Dom. I just read through all 20+ pages of this thread! Took me a few days but I got through it. Now my head is spinning.

Sorry to drag up an old question but a few weeks ago I was out bashing my MP 7.5 and there was a dude there with a MP and on the grass he was popping wheelies. I didn't know any better so I didn't really ask any questions but he told me the truck was basically stock, just longer outdrives so the doggies don't pop out. It had the big tires and all. After seeing that I thought all MPs popped wheelies. He didn't say much about the engine just that it was a RB S7.

[PCC]

Umm, a stock S7 doesn't have enough torque to lift the front end of a Monster Pirate.

[Coconut]

Without a slipper clutch and the right gearing and the right surface;it's possible for the MP to pop wheelies with the S7. A low-end pipe would also help.

[anothermbdusted]

Does anyone happen to have a old stripped spur gear from a MP or a dom like a 60+Tooth that they can send me for measurments?

[rc/guitarman69]

Hey guys i wanted to know on the front and back builkheads( aka gear box suports). Is it worth me to upgrade to alum ones? Cause i had a crash and broke my front one. Ripped the arm right out of it. If so what ones should i buy? How are the powerline racing ones and where can i get them online? Just let me know i figure i broke it i should upgrade it. Also what is the part number on the stock front builkhead? Thanks !!!

[FrankT]

here is a picture a my MP almost done ,just waiting for my order from ace for the engine and pipe.

[ExtremeRCR]

How do I know if my truck has a 4 port or an 8 port? I had originally thought that I had a 4 port because the head is black. But the pull start has a sticker that says turbo on it. I was also at the track yesterday and my stock MP was quite a bit faster off the line than other MPs that seemed to have engines that were tuned well.

[anothermbdusted]

does it look like this one? if so then it is a 4 port

[fezzy]

You just have a 4-Port, only 8-Ports come with a Purple head, not black.. Also every Hyper21 motor has a sticker saying turbo on the back, thats what they call the impeller on the inside of the motor.

[rc/guitarman69]

Originally posted by rc/guitarman69
Hey guys i wanted to know on the front and back builkheads( aka gear box suports). Is it worth me to upgrade to alum ones? Cause i had a crash and broke my front one. Ripped the arm right out of it. If so what ones should i buy? How are the powerline racing ones and where can i get them online? Just let me know i figure i broke it i should upgrade it. Also what is the part number on the stock front builkhead? Thanks !!!


Please help!!!!

[anothermbdusted]

I personally always upgrade if i can afford to...

[rc/guitarman69]

Yep i can afford to! I just wanted to know which is better the ofna ones or the powerline or? Before i spend the dough!

[anothermbdusted]

i dont have a dominator but have you checked out maxxtraxxes forum to see if you can get a answer there?since no one has answered i here yet? ill check to see if i can find others for you

[rc/guitarman69]

Originally posted by anothermbdusted
i dont have a dominator but have you checked out maxxtraxxes forum to see if you can get a answer there?since no one has answered i here yet? ill check to see if i can find others for you

Hey if you where talking to me! I have a MP not a dom! So who ever has alum bulkheads let me know which ones are better ofna or power line or?

[anothermbdusted]

basically there the same..... try looking here for a parts list http://www.midmad.com/mp/images/MP%20PartsList.jpg have you looked into the sabre parts yet or the proline hybred bulk heads?

[rc/guitarman69]

Originally posted by anothermbdusted
basically there the same..... try looking here for a parts list http://www.midmad.com/mp/images/MP%20PartsList.jpg have you looked into the sabre parts yet or the proline hybred bulk heads?

Yea sabre doesnt make the front bulkheads (aka gear box supports!) But i guess ill just go with the power line ones. I looked at the proline. I want to keep it stock i like the big tires and its my basher! I dont want to make it a racer! So if any body has any info give it to me! Thanks for the help anotherbdusted!!!!

[fezzy]

Short answer is this, the OFNA Bulks are better, they are CNC Machined where as the Powerline ones are cast, The OFNA ones are therefore better made and offer more strength... However, depending on how hard you bash the Powerline bulkheads will offer greater strength than the stock bulkheads, and they are almost half the price of OFNA's.

[rc/guitarman69]

I dont bash to hard. Had my Mp for a few months and only broke this bulkhead. Cause i miss judged a tree and hit it LOL. With the wheel on the left side and ripped it right off! Is there any other bulkheads made? Like alum or ti? Thanks just let me know!

[fezzy]

Only the OFNA CNC ones, Powerline ones and the Proline Hybrid ones... I'd go for the OFNA ones if you can afford them, If not i think the Powerline ones will do just fine for you.

[Meesh]

I am now offering a drill start conversion for the HYPER .21 pull start engines. I have enough parts to do 10 engines so the first folks to E:mail me at bemichaud@attbi.com and say they want the conversion get on the list. Price is $30.00 plus shipping. I can accept PayPal or Money Orders, no personal checks. This is what I need:

Send me you recoil starter assembly including the shaft that goes into the engine. I will modify the parts so that the motor can be started with an electric drill using a 6mm hex driver. If you don't feel comfortable taking things apart, send me the complete engine. Be aware that with the MP or Dominator you will have to raise the engine up 1/8th inch or more to give a straight shot to the hex drive from the back of the truck.

Any questions you can call me at 978-681-0946
http://pic5.picturetrail.com:80/VOL92/800986/1418510/18427169.jpg

[toddzilla]

just finished repainting my mp/dom, used that bob dively liquid mask, works awesome!!


gonna start work on some kind of rollbar to keep the cab from compressing in the RARE :rolleyes: chance that i MIGHT :rolleyes: land on the roof POSSIBLY :rolleyes:

http://www.ericallenogle.com/todd/pirate.jpg

[Mook9304]

Nice truck.

[Litll Jayy]

I just got a MP today and have pretty much broken the motor in ( am on tank #6 or 7 now ). What carb settings are yall using for the 8 port? I tried going with what the book says that came with the truck but when I use those settings it spits out ALOT of gas out the pipe and won't get any kind of high RPM's.
I broke it in using 10% and am about to switch to 20% ( just finishing up what I have left of the 10% ).

Also when giving the settings, can you tell me the turns out from bottomed out, The way the book says x turns out from flush kinda sucks.
Thanks for the help.

[vikingdave21]

Hi

If you turn the high speed all the way in . You will see a ring inside the brass housing. Start flush with that ring about 2 1/2 to 3turns. The low speed is flush with the slide valve and start to tune 1 turn IN!! from there. I called Ofna on this and you will start to see lots of power from there.:D

[Claude B]

Originally posted by Coconut
Without a slipper clutch and the right gearing and the right surface;it's possible for the MP to pop wheelies with the S7. A low-end pipe would also help.

I ran into him again at the LHS and I asked him about it. He said stock gearing, steel spur gear, longer outdrives, ported S7, 086 pipe. Don't know if he's telling the truth though.

[Litll Jayy]

Thank you VikingDave, According to the manual they were saying break in at 5 turns and normal running at 4 turns, so when I had to lean in an additional 1 1/2 turns I thought something was screwed up. ( I want to run rich but 4 turns geeez, I was spillin more fuel out the stinger than I was burning in the motor! )
As for the low end needle I was doing the pinch the fuel line trick, making sure the motor idled up after you pinch it before it dies.

Thanks again

( Now I can't wait to get home and give the beast some hell. ):cool:

[anothermbdusted]

hey i have a chance to trade my ofna 9.5 for this truck it is a MP he says does it look good to you guys and hes willing through in the new bulk heads for the proline tmaxx conversion if ness is it worth the trade? need to know QUICK!!!!

[anothermbdusted]

sorry

[Mook9304]

Does any body know besides the 2 speed tranny is there any parts that I will need to put that in .

[Philly's Finest]

anothermbdusted:

Looks okay. Do you really want to trade your hand made truggy? Let us know what you did?

[Coconut]

Originally posted by Mook9304
Does any body know besides the 2 speed tranny is there any parts that I will need to put that in .

Look back aways and you'll se a reprint by Fezzy that gives items needed and how to use needle bearing to make it work right. It'son the Dominator forum;I believe.

[Coconut]

Aothermbbusted; If he has the bulkheads for pro-line then he got the center diff and rear brake kit for free with it. No way ;I would trade a MP that was recently sold for 229.00 with 8 port engine just before they were discontinued for a 9.5. You can getv a MP roller;that comes less body,clutch,servo linkage and wheels and tires for like 128.00 at www.stormerhobbies.com. Check under OFNA and scroll down to seea picture of what you get.If your going to make a racing MP/Dominaotr the roller ids the way to go because you'll want to change the things that don't come with it.

[anothermbdusted]

Well to heck with it.....I am now a pround new owner of a monster pirate from stormer hobbies....thanks coconut for the info on this kit...going to keep the 9.5 and now i got a new pirate also boy life is good....now i just need a new receiver and a engine for my 9.5 lol....what should be upgraded first i ordered the kit and brake linkage and the motor mounts and thats it...

[Coconut]

There are alot of different opinions but here mine. Mugen purple flyheel with gold OFNA springs and the compose black mugen shoes. Ifit comes with the MP front tower then a dominator front tower and long shock like rear. Some MPhave beeen coming with them altely I here. get some Kyosho 96644 8X10mm shims and I would get the smallkyosho(think it's 5X8mm ) which come in handy to shim clutches.the 8X10 to shim the diff and also the cvd'stojust a little play. I would get pair of front CVD's for rear and 30800 long drive cups for all four diff's. CNC knuckles when you break the stock. Lunsford Dominator turnbuckles will make it easyto adjust. oh yeah;when you mount the Dom tower youwill need Dom front hingepins as they go thru the tower on Dom for strength. I'd go ahead and get the Lunsford kit . They are new and hard to find ;so you might have to order from them direct by calling. Be sure and go thru all the cvd's;drivecups with red locktite and then blue on rest of metal to metal screws. Tower carries most of thse items including the shims. You don't have do do all this but it's a list at least. Of course you need wheels and tires (you don't getb stuck with the stock ones at le3ast buying a roller. You might want to also consider the center diff and rear brake kit since you race . You could start with Coleman's set-up and go from their. Just drill the piston as before.Good luck

[anothermbdusted]

well thank you for the suggestions...will order some more things on next check i guess:D ..should all be done in late FEB...will be able to drive it sooner but wont have the money to buy all the things i was thinking of until then....figure i would try and get the sabre towers and chassis..and then some UE shocks and then something like the sabre cva's when they come out and then i should be set. but most of that is a wish list right now. lol....thanks for the info though will be here on tuesday.:D

[FrankT]

here is an updated picture of my new MP.I have the 86 hard coated pipe coming next week.:)

[rcracerguy]

I just want to make sure on this. My diff gears are shot after a gallon of fuel,but I think it was own falt. Anyway does it matter with side the ring gear goes on the diff? I've toke it apart plunty of time,but I don't realy see witch side it should go on. Yes I know witch side it came off of. One side drops down alittle around the screw holes and the other side is alittle up but pretty much flat. Anyone understand me?

[Coconut]

yes;if you look at the diff case(aluminum) you will notice that the side the Socket head screw go into has reacess for the socket heads. The ring gear of course goes on other side.

[anothermbdusted]

hey really quick question about the shocks on the MP the ones that come stock with it are they any good?is there any problems with the blue ones that are included?

[rcracerguy]

Hum.. That's weird. My ring gear looks like it's always been on the other way. There is no marks from the screws on that side. You can see the threds marks in the holes on that side. It's that's true it must have came backwards....?

[Batteries]

I wanted to change the gearing on my future MP, but I dont know which type of spurs to get that will work with it. The ones that electric guys buy? or some kind of special ones or something? And does anyone know where they sell a clutchbell gear lower than 11T for the Monster Pirate? Thx alot!

[anothermbdusted]

you wont find a clutch bell that is lower then a 11T why do you need something lower then that may i ask?as for spurs go to the ofna website they got the spurs youll need there..

[Batteries]

I just wanted to know if there was anything lower than an 11T, cuz i wanted to get a lil more torque out of the ole MP. Thx for you help! Just one quick question, if I got the RTR monster Pirate do I have to paint the body?

[anothermbdusted]

i think it comes painted but not sure usually the rtr's from ofna are already painted

[Batteries]

Yeah Im dumb sometimes! I looked at ace later on, and they said that it was pre-painted and everything. I should have read before posting! Ah well, you learn something every day. By the way, Are the instructions that come with the MP good? Cuz this will be my first nitro, so I will need to follow instructions that are GOOD.

[fezzy]

I seriously would not consider a MP for your first truck, the instructions are THE WORST you will EVER find, PERIOD. The MP will also require you to have a reasonable ammount of experience as some of the parts need a custom touch to 'perfect', EG, Shimming the diffs is a must.... Although not particularly hard it could be fustrating for someone new that hasn't got a clue.

If your new then get a T-Maxx.

[default_uzer]

My MP is Brand new out of the box, the first couple of times that I ran it after the break-in were perfect, the third time I ran it, and let it cool down, I found the Spur gear was melted to the Clutch bell gear! I bought a new cluchbell, and Clutch shoes, also a new spur Gear! It seems to run fine now? What caused this to happen? Any suggestions so it wont happen again?
Thanks

[anothermbdusted]

can you use any tmaxx shocks for the MP front and rear?will these work heres the specs and picture also

SPECS: Full Length: 4" (101mm)
Shock Body Diameter: .506" (12.8mm)
Spring Diameter: .677" (17.2mm)
Spring Length: 3.2" (81mm)
Full Shaft Travel Range: 1.2" (31mm)
Shaft Diameter: .115" (3mm)


http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hbsc2511.jpg

[cmracing]

I can't believe that you were able to melt the spur gear to the clutch bell. Either you had the mesh set WAY too tight, but I can't believe that is possible. Or, the clutch shoes were slipping SO much that they really overheated the clutch bell, in which case the clutch bearings have to be shot also. I'm sure the grease in the bearings is long gone and the suckers are probably blue from heat. To the person getting a Monster Pirate as a first RC car, I would not reccomend it! I have been into RC cars for 16 years and the instructions that come with the Ofna Monster Pirate are absolutely THE WORST I have ever seen! I love my Ofna stuff, but the Monster Pirate instructions should not even be included they are so terrible. Their other instructions are fine for their other products. Good luck if you decide to get the Pirate!

[default_uzer]

Yes! The spur was actually melted to the clutch bell gear, and yes the shoes, and bearing were toast!! The truck would not roll forward at all, I had to kind of chisel them apart! I also adjusted my brake it seemed it was tight when I rolled it forward with my hand! As for the mesh that is how it was adjusted from the factory i never messed with it at all! Who knows? So far it is working fine and no probs as of yet! Maybe I should also get a steel spur instead of plastic?:confused:

[Coconut]

Originally posted by anothermbdusted
can you use any tmaxx shocks for the MP front and rear?will these work heres the specs and picture also

SPECS: Full Length: 4" (101mm)
Shock Body Diameter: .506" (12.8mm)
Spring Diameter: .677" (17.2mm)
Spring Length: 3.2" (81mm)
Full Shaft Travel Range: 1.2" (31mm)
Shaft Diameter: .115" (3mm)


http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hbsc2511.jpg

No;they are too short . They also have other disadvantages. The stock long MP shocks are better. If changing shocks I would get 1/8th. They also don't have much shock oil volume. If upgrading I would also make sure they use 3.5mm shafts;much stronger.

[default_uzer]

Does anyone know if an Atomik Truck body will fit on a MP? If I remember right the MP has a 12" wheelbase? Thankz!

[anothermbdusted]

ok this leaves me the kyosho shocks and the UE ones then right.which are modified 9.5s right...is there any other ones out there that youd recommend then?and thanks for the response coconut

[Coconut]

Alot of peop;e use the rear Mugen big bores. I don't know about the Kyo or Mugen. The main problem is to find a shock that has a body that is sort enough that when the suspension is fully compressed the chassis bottoms out before the shocks do. The unlimited shocks are shorter than rear 9.5 and have shorter shock sahft. With hyper seven rod-ends ;they work great. The standard rodends are alttle longer. All the UE shocks that are out now are the shorter ones. Only one I've seen that have them are www.hobbyshopnj.com;but Stormer should have them shortly;I would think. Also I have heard that the Trinity 5133 springs for the Terra Crusher work great with them.

[anothermbdusted]

so then to get the best performance shock i need to get some 9.5 rear bodies and then the hyper 7 rods?because i cant find the mugen bigbores

[Philly's Finest]

I thought the newest UE shocks have the short shafts & short bodies. I am probably gonna be buying them. They aren't that exspensive either. I'd rather have them then the bigb bores.

[PCC]

Ace Hobbies (www.ace-hobbies.com) has the Mugen bigbores for sale for $39 a pair. You still need the springs for them, though.

[Philly's Finest]

Stormer has the UE shocks for 3 bucks more & they are threaded & come with springs. Big bores are $80 & UE are $83. They might be a bit shorter than the regular ofna shocks but they are fine for an MP/Dom.

[Coconut]

Personally my finding on the Dominator shock s is that the main problem is the rear shock tower is too short. The mounting holes need to be raised. They should have done this when they redid the rear towers. With idenical length shocks the rear will have much more droop than the front. I actually set mijne up with longer front than rear shocks because of this. The Sabr may solve this;I don't know. I would be willing to bet that Coleman's truck had the old 9.5 shock bodies that are the same as the UE bodies and that he cut some off the rod-end threads. You will noice that the measurements given for his raising the steering turnbuckle rod-end on the steering link end is wrtong. They state 7.5mm but the spacers shown only workout to 6.5mm. Of course they say the engine is a OFNA but if you look closely it's an RB. As far as springs go his leaning the shocks will make them act like springs are stiffer and it has more dampening. I also really doubt the front springs are blue OFNA as they would need more pre-loading to be arms level. most of the SM and Jt guys are saying the Trinity 5133 are the right springs for four shock trucks that weight about the same as Dominator . I have a set coming and hope they are because they are much cheaper.

[anothermbdusted]

Hey coconut you got some eagles eyes man i never noticed that so i ask about this and the reason why pauls truck has a rb in it on the dec issue is because he was sponsered by rb at the time he raced but now ofna/picco now sponsers him...as for the shocks you can buy the 9.5 ones for 82$ that are UE's at stormer these will work right? i plan on getting the sabre shock towers next month so this is why i ask now...heres a pic of themhttps://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/ueshk4a.jpg

[anothermbdusted]

ok heres some questions for you now that i have the MP in my hand....first of all whats up with the fuel tank? does it need braced because if so i was just looking and the 9.5 radio tray supports work perfect under here..is this a good thing to brace it or leave it be???also the rear end cant droop all the way or the drive shaft hit the drive cups is this normal or will the shocks cure this?also it looks like the center diff looks like a locked spur no slipper or even a diff is this right?over all thought i think the kit is nice. will have it all together tomorrow afternoon shocks body and engine and all but the only thing i can see that i dont like so far is the fuel tank and the front hubs....other then those things i dont know about the shocks yet

[default_uzer]

Question for anothermbdusted? Why the big change with the shocks? Are the stock ones not of quality or drability? or do you just want something stronger? I am just wondering it sounds like a good idea!

[Coconut]

Yes;those are the ones. I would try the rod-ends that come with them and then use the stock and bottom retainers if it doesn't bottom out in rear. Yes;most people drill the chassis and brace the tank. As to why change shocks its a personal choice really but they are hard coated bodies,shorter bodies,Tianium nitrate shafts that are 3.5mm thick( stronger and wear better. One thing is don't pay attention to Storners recommended springs as they are too small in diameter and rub the shock bodies.

[default_uzer]

I am wanting to buy the two speed transmission for the MP, is it worth it, and will you gain much more speed or power or both? Thankz!

[fezzy]

To be honest with you I would not bother, Unless you run purely on-road the performance gain will be pretty useless, Mine has caused so many problems with my Dominator that I want to sell it and revert back to a single speed and go 8-Port Hyper.

[default_uzer]

fezzy,

Ya, I will be pretty much running off road with it! So you are right it would be a worthless feature for me and a waste of time and money! Thankz!

[SUPERMP]

Hi I am new to the board.....lots of activities here!!!
Anyway I thought I would start off by showing off my MP with XTM 24.7.

http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/1153929.jpg
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/1153926.jpg
This is an old picture with the OS RG

[default_uzer]

Hey SUPERMP,

Nice looking MP u got there!! How well does the xtm 24.7 run in that thing?, do you do a lot of wheelies with that kind of power?

[SUPERMP]

I have not run it yet can wait though........the weather here is very cold:(

[default_uzer]

SUPERMP,

Ya, me either it cold here in IOWA too! Come spring and summer I am out for some extensive play with all of my nitro vehicles! Especially the MP!!

[anothermbdusted]

hey i got my MP's shocks on and i put the rear shocks on the lower part to the outside and the top to the inside hole and the chassis bottoms out befor the shocks end but my front ones i have at the inside hole on both and the chassis wont hit the ground first befor the shocks bottom out is this right?i thought that the rear was the ones with the problem not the front.
for anyone that didn't know already you can brace the fuel tank by using ofna 9.5 radio tray posts...i know that i should drill the holes into the chassis but im going to try it with out to see how it does i just put the plastic ones onto it with a screw and its nice and tight with just a tiny bit of side to side movement..will pobably drill anyways but will see

[default_uzer]

anothermbdusted, tht is a good idea! I would drill the holes for a really tight fit and to keep it in place, and reduce vibration to the fuel tank! Canyou order just he radio tray posts or do you have to have a 9.5 laying around?

[anothermbdusted]

no you can get the radio tray post from ace the part # is 49022 the cost is 7.96$ for 4 of them i just happen to have an aluminum set and a plastic set here that i got on my 9.5 and just wanted to see if it works and low and behold it does fit so ill change it to the cnc blue ones after i get it running..almost done got to mount the electronics and thats it other then the body...

[default_uzer]

anothermbdusted,

Thanks, I will check there to order them! That is a pretty good idea too! Well have fun!

[anothermbdusted]

is the pipe going to be to close to the tires when they ballon from acceration in a turn? I dont want to be breaking a cvd so let me know fezzy or cocnut or someone with alot of experience in the MP's....

[Coconut]

That header definite comes out further than mine;but usually the ballooning problem is at front. I believe that you will be OK as they etend to get narrower as they balloon. As far as the front shocks;are you running the Dominator front tower? As for the rear ;are you running stiffer inserts like the Trinity/pro-line or racers edge? They amke the tires larger diameter but I believe are needed with weight of vehicle. Any 1 1/8th in stand-off will work for tank.

[anothermbdusted]

thats what i mean im not worried about the rear tires hitting it im worried about the front end when im steering into a turn under power and the tires balloning i guess i should have been more specific about this sorry..
no i dotn have the dom front tower yet it came with the short one,as for inserts im running the ofna ones that came with the tires.as far as shocks they are bone stock but i am planning on getting some sabre stuff next month like the tall front tower and the rear one also and maybe the chassis but hard to say right now on that i dont know how it handles right now..

by the way i heard somewhere and now i cant find it that you can use 9.5 cvd's on the MP is this true and which ones?and what do you all need for the conversion?

[geerah]

i want to change the stock shocks on my mp. I was think of the dominator shocks, but will i have to change any of the shock towers, and are there any other shocks that would be better

[Coconut]

You'll have to change to the taller dominator tower. Also Dominator tower has the top front hingepin going thru the toer for more strength ;so you'll need a longer hingepin. Probaly the easiest to get is the new Lunsford pins. The stock shocks are OK but if upgrading I would get some with 3.5mm shock shafts. The Unlimited engineering super shocks are good as any i've seen. 3.5mm shafts,Titanium nitrated shafts and hardcoated bodies. They are threaded bodies and have a shorter body and shaft but otherwise the same as OFNA 9.5 shocks. www.stormerhobbies.com and www.hobbyshopnj.com carry them. Many also use the Mugen Big Borews but I haven't tried them on Dominator so don't know about there length.

[anothermbdusted]

well i got the linkage all setup correct now....what a joke the instructions are..lol I don;t know how long it took all you guys to se it up but for me it took most of the afternoon to get it just right...I'm a little scared of the gear mesh though..when i roll the truck forward it sounds loud but if i take the motor off it then its nice and quiet and roll very well..but connected its a little on the loud side compared to my 9.5 is this normal???also is the center gear like a spool gear and is it any good for jumping at all??is the diffs better for racing or the slipper??

[Coconut]

Yea;the gear mesh is kind of hard comparedto some. What I do is mount the motor close ;then get the spur center on the clutch bell gear .I tighten the motor to mount. I then loosen the mounts under the chassis and put a piece of paper between the gears. Slide the motor against the paper and itghten the mount. Then I loosen the engine mount scrwes to get the final mesh with the paper. Then hold the spur and check for slight play in cluch gear. yes;the M?p center is a spool. The slipper is better for jumping but then the Center diff maybe better for racing. With the center diff;you can run the rear brake kit ands set brake Bias. From what I have heard it works verywell and heard they are running 30Wt diff oil center like Coleman.They make two different diff for Dom/MP. One has the better beveled diff gears . It's like 97.95 at Ace-hobbies. Of course.your going to have to play with gear ratios with the .25. I would think that the gearing available on the MP is really going to make it accelerate much better than the buggy center diff gear on 9.5 with larger wheels.

[anothermbdusted]

i think what im going to do is pickup the proline tmaxx bulkheads and get the diff and rear brake kit for free and that way if i dont like the suspension on the thing then i can switch over to the tmaxx style and if i do like it then i can sell it to someone that does like the tmaxx suspension better...but thank you for the info on the center diff mesh..i thik i got it about the best i can. just lets hope it dont strip on the first run thats all....on a side not why does the front bearing on my clutch bell always burn out the seal but the rear bearing is fine?

[ExtremeRCR]

What is all this I am hearing about bracing the gas tank? I have many hours of blasting around a track and have not had any problens with the tank. What weight oil and pistons are most of you running for racing? The track where I run has a couple good sized jumps. Right now I am running 30 wt oil in front with the 2 hole pistons in the Dominator front shocks. In the rear I am using the stock shocks with the stock pistons drilled out to 1/16th" and 45 weight oil. Do any of you recommend running without the sway bar?

[Coconut]

Bracing the tank cuts down on fuel foam and makes it easy to refuel when opening the lid. Ijust put one standoff on rear. Anytime the clutch bearings burnout I would firrst suspect the clutch is slipping too much. Some of the light springs used for buggies when using heavier wheels/tires can give a problem. Also make sure there is some end play when shimming the bell.

[anothermbdusted]

Also on the tank i was reading on maxxtraxx forums where someone was racing and he landed bad of a jump and cracked the fuel tank because it smashing against the servo saver unit/front end brace.. so i put a brace on the front of the tank and the rear and it makes for a very solid tank now will not move at all...preventive maint. thats all...
And coconut as usual thank you for the info on the bearings... going to run it tomorrow morning hopefully i dont strip the gear on the first run:p but if i do its going to be about two weeks befor i can afford to get another one because im going to get those proline bulk heads and then i can use the new diff in the center and have rear brakes also for free and then ill upgrade later to the tmaxx if i dont like the orignal suspension...its cheaper that ways also if you think about it also...

[Jasio18]

I made this air filter for my MP. I bought the air filter from Auto Zone for $2.49 and got the hose for about .09 cents at home depot. Total cost with tax: $2.74...Thats better than what most hobby stores charge for the air filter. Believe it or not, but I have noticed an increase in top speed with this air filter on...I made a cut out in my body so that it sticks out and gets a Ram-Air effect. More expensive doesn't make something better.. I'm happy and my engine seems happy with the better intake...works for both of us....final thought: HAPPY :D

now i hope these pictures work...
http://g3squad.com/stuff/rc001.jpg

http://g3squad.com/stuff/rc003.jpg

[fezzy]

What have you secured it with? Zip Ties?. You may want to think about using some hose clamps, I did a similar mod and because there was no groove in the hosing and because it was so thick that zip ties wouldn't work.

Looks like a good mod though

[Jasio18]

I don't need anything to secure it with. The hose was so tight to get onto the carburator and the filter that i had to warm it up by using hair dryer...than, i took it outside into the cold weather (10 F) and it shrank the tubing so good that it feels like its welded on. taking it off is very hard....it needs a LOT of pressure in order for it to fall off....thats why I don't see a need for hose clamps or zip ties.
;)

[default_uzer]

Jasio18,

Nice idea! I guess whatever works to keep it on is the key?

[Jasio18]

lol, yep...the way i see it is....more work now, less work later

thanx for the props

[anothermbdusted]

well the 9.5 is sold so now the fun begins.going to see about ordering sabre parts on monday.... not going to get the chassis yet just the towers and steering plate i think..i know the shocks the towers and the cups and the diff anything else should be changed out?and is it worth the extra money for the cnc center diff if your only going to race once in a while locally?the proline bulk heads come with the center diff and brake kit so i was going to get that

[cmracing]

That filter looks like a FB59 which was used on millions of GM cars from the 60's through the 80's. It is the crankcase ventilation filter which sits inside the regular airfilter housing on the older carbureted cars (it's for the PCV system). You used to be able to buy just the insert for $1.00 a long time ago. I kinda doubt they are available anymore. I use a cartridge-style gas filter as an air filter on my old Vanning. It works great and gives it roll-over protection.

[Jasio18]

cool cm....I can't really picture your air filter in my head, do you have any pics to help?:D

[anothermbdusted]

is there a big difference between the cnc diffs with hd gears then the one that is cnc and regular gears?the reason why i ask this is because the proline bulkheads include the regular cnc one and the rear brake kit so i figure i would buy them so i get the bulk heads for free....
coconut did you get your springs yet and if so how do they work?

[Coconut]

Yea;got the springs but haven't had a chance to run them. Looks like it will be awhile as I've got other things going. Had to scrape the paint from the inside were they go over retainers;but they seem to be right for front with very little pre-load. As far as the centr diff the heavyduty have bevel-cut gears ;so should be stronger. The straight cut gear version is certainly the right price with the bulkheads. As far as parts ;the sabre or the new cnc OFNA steering link would be a good replacement as the stock bends pretty easliy.

[anothermbdusted]

hey this is what my front and rear diffs look like on the outside is this normal? i though they were plastic and these are made up of all aluminum...

[Coconut]

They changed the diff cases to aluminum sometime ago.

[DipInTraffic]

come check out our ofna monster truck site ......lots of titan guys http://www.titanforums.com

[anothermbdusted]

so all of them are aluminum now?why do they sell part #18001 then? the diffs seem tight in the case to me and sound and roll very well also..am i missing something?how am i suppose to check to see if it needs shimmed?

to anyone that has tried the proline bulkheads is it worth it to upgrade the suspension??i know its a matter of opinion but does it perform better then in stock form?

[toddzilla]

you actually shim the ring gear to the pinion gear, the diff itself doesn't need shimming.

[anothermbdusted]

that makes more sense i was thinking of the gears inside the case needed to be shimmed..lol so what size is the shim because this makes sense to me as i thought that the gear mesh moved a little more then i liked :D ill goto the hobby shop tomorrow and get some for it....just need to know the size of them thats all

[anothermbdusted]

do the shims need to be exactly 8x10mm?can it be like 9x12mm?

[Coconut]

Get a set of Kyosho part number 96644 which has 10 shims of three different sizes that are 8mmx10mm. Thats the correct size for diff. You can also use them on drive axles to remove play if too much. If you are not familar with shimming diff's then go to www.maxxtraxx.com;the Unlimited engineering forum and ask for a link to diff instructions. Print and that will explain it as all diff are pretty much the same.

[anothermbdusted]

ive read the thing about it being a little notchy but was wondering how notchy?the out drives are fine but the one to the pinion feels a little notchy....do i just want to take the slack out and thats it?

[Coconut]

With the Dom/MP I have found it best to shim the diff inside the case so that it is smooth;not notchy like they do on buggies. I put shims on both sides of the diffinside the case. The advantage of this is that the total of both sides will never change. When the gears wear and you are cleaning and adding new fluid later;all that is required is to addto gear side and remove same from other side. You then have to shim the pinion. Many already have a shim I have found and won't require anymore ;you just have try it. Since there is no way of seeing how close the end of the pinion is to the diff you jhave to go by feel. When thru you should beable to hold the output shafts and feel very little movement as you wiggle the pinion out put shaft. It should still be smooth tho. Take you time shifting the shim and it will workout eventually. if it is smooth evrywhere but one spot that will usually wear in OK. I just don't think these diff's are quality enogh to go for the slightly notchy feel.Good lucky

[anothermbdusted]

hey maybe its normal but i have the front suspension off the truck and in my hand and went to turn the pinion yoke and when i do the knuckles move like im messing with the steering but im not is this normal and yes it did it befor and after i took it apart and changed the diff oil...

also i noticed that when the front end is connected that the suspension on the right side wants to lift a tiny bit when i turn fully to the left is this normal also?

[Coconut]

Not really sure waht your describing in the first part. Turning the pinion on the diff should not move the steering knuckle unless possibly if the shocks are off and it is turn the CVd's that in turn are moveing the knuckle as they rub the CVD cups. That may also have something to do with the suspension rising too. Depending on were the suspension is in it travel the turnbuckle move the knuckles. This is what causes bumpsteer as the steering turnbuckles are a fixed length although the suspension needs them to be different lengths during different points of travel for knuckles to stay in same position. That is why Coleman used the spacers under steering link and at knuckles. I found 4mm spacers under the link cone washer and 6mm spacer under the cone washer on the CNC type knuckles to work best.The article says 7.5mm total including the cone washer but the picture shows different. I also tried 7,5mm total and it is too much. Seeing as you have the front off ;you might want to shim most of the slop in the linkage to post out. I useed plastic washers and sanded until they were right thickness. They go next to the bolt head that connects the servo saver to the link. On buggies the team drivers work these things out before they release the kits.

[anothermbdusted]

I think i found the problem....I put loctite on to the screw that holds the cva's together and it was binding now got to figure out how to get the loctite out of it so its not binding..i have them in peices right now....do i soak them in something?

[Coconut]

That has to be the CVD's as the only thing connesting the diffs to the knuckles is the CVD's. When you get it back togeather move each arm to etremes of up and down travel and make sure that they CVD's do not bind or rub the edges of the CVD cups. Also lok at the diff drivecups. There is a limit to how much travel you can have because of the short arms without binding. At the extremes grab the CVD shaft and it should have some play not tight as this signals binding. Trying to get to much rdie height and over extending the arms also binds the steering turnbuckles too much. That is the main reason some want the maxx arms;less driveangle :with higher ground clearance not to widen the venicles. The only thing I can see it does for racing is eliminate the large off-set in wheels. or allow the use of Unlimited suspension that have better geometry. The later is waht most racers are going for, The ground clearance is what the bashers do it for.

[anothermbdusted]

well i figured it out last night what was wrong with the cva's i put to much loctite on the grub screw and it leaked a little into the cup of the axle binding it up on both sides....

ran it just a minute ago and all I can say is WOW!!!!!i thought my truggy was good but when that savage came out to play i had no chance well ill bet 50$ i win against it. got to redo the suspension with the long fronts but man oh man is it nice i broke 3 sprinkler heads and drove through the flower patch we have its made like a jump so i had to try it oh well 20 flowers and it will be like new again till the next time:D

[Coconut]

Hey;great. I'd be sure and check evrything over during first few runs and take it easy on the lawn equipment. What gearing are you running with the 25.

[anothermbdusted]

im using the kit supplied 65T and a 13T clutchbell...serious torque...lol love it...when i get the center diff im going to try the same gearing 62t x 13t and see how it does....hey i ordered the mugen big bores from ace today and I hope i got the right springs i got the mugen med blue springs...i got these because my truggy had the ofna blues med and they worked perfect for the track.
where can i find the hinge pins for the dominator conversion on the front end? what is the part number?

[Coconut]

Lunsford just atarted making hingepin and turnbuckle sets for the Dominator. If you are still getting Sabr towers they come with hingepins. I think they are going to supply Lunsford as that was the hold-up on towers is that the place that was making pins for them couldn't do it. They advised me that they expect them in two weeks. Sabr really doesn't do this full time and usually it's best to send them a e-mail advising them to notify you when they ahve the product ready. I've on list for towers and chassis. They have just gotten the Ti for chassis. As they only do this as a sideline they have to reant machine time to make their products and buy ti "drop-off pieces" that keep the parts reasonable.

[toddzilla]

did you get that spur gear i mailed to you?

[FrankT]

Need some HELP???? I ordered the part #'s that I seen here for the long front hinge pins to go threw the dominator front shock tower.I ordered the 18021 pins (to short) and I ordered the 18019 still not long enough.can someone help me out to fin the right long dominator hinge pins...

Thanks Frank

[Coconut]

I have seen alot of people state that you basically can get the long pins are almost imposssible to get. Either call Ace-hobbies or nitrohouse. Lunsford just started making hingepine and turnbuckles for the Dominator also.

[anothermbdusted]

coconut you dont know the part number for that kit do you?

[FrankT]

that would really help....Thanks

[Coconut]

No;but their website is www.lunsfordracing.com With the 1/8th scale stuff it sbetter to call them and order direct. That what I had to do because 1/8th turnbuckles and hingepins are hard to find. They sent them in about three days.The turnbuckles are life time guarnteed but not hingepins. The turnbuckles are really nice to have so you can make easy adjustments.

[anothermbdusted]

ill give them a call in the morning and get back to here with the numbers

[FrankT]

great ....I have the front of my truck all apart just waiting for the right size long pins...
Thanks Frank

[FrankT]

sorry guys ,but I was looking threw the 18021 pin kit I ordered and there is a set of long ones in there that will work on the top suspension arm...Thanks for all the help though.
Frank

[FrankT]

well everyone here it is all finished ,except for my R&B pipe that I'm waiting on.what do you think?? thanks for all the help everyone.:) :) :)

[FrankT]

p2

[FrankT]

p3

[fezzy]

Nice lookin truck Frank.

[FrankT]

thanks fezzy..I can't wait till it warms up here so I can run it.

[FrankT]

here are a couple better photo's

[FrankT]

:)

[cbr74]

LUN 4851 MP/Dom Turnbuckle/Hingepin combo w/ tool

[anothermbdusted]

called up lun and i told them how that some people only want the top front hinge pins and nothing else and they said that they will pass it onto there sales people and that they thanked me very much for letting them know this info and so they are going to be sending me the 2 hinge pins for the top front od the dominator....and the kit retails for 82.50 for all

[Coconut]

WQell; Sabr finally got a batch of Ext Ti chassis for the Dom/MP made. Orsered that and set of towers and steering link tonoght. They still haven't gotten the Ti pins from Lunsford yet;so going to use the stock Dom pins. Only thing is I'm going to be busy;so won't be able to do the Mod for awhile. Since I got a new OS RZV01b for christmas and haven't had time to break it in yet. So I be breaking it in on stock chassis set-up and make the mod when I get the other parts. Have been waiting since mid-Dec for the chassis to become available and they go fast ;so if you want one any time soon might want to give them a call.

[anothermbdusted]

Heck i want one but i got to wait until closer to the end of the month:( two more weeks until i can order one. i dont get my bonus until then...ill have one kick but mp after that..cant wait to be able to race it havent yet im waiting to get all the parts onto it first....

so far heres my list of things i got or have ordered:
the front hinge pins from lunds
mugen big bores
the center diff
rear brake kit

needs or wants:
cnc knuckles
turnbuckles
SABR: shock towers,chassis,steering plate
ofna graphite radio tray,center diff plate
rear cvas
long drive cups
titanium upper chassis braces
ofna bulk heads
my wife will kill me when i order all these things but as long as i can drive it once it will all be worth it:D

[Coconut]

One thing you should add or may get in palce of something else is the Ti steering link. I've even heard of them biending with two links sandwiched. Who makes the ti center braces? I would also suggest that you start with the front bukhead as the rear rarely breaks;they are heavy. Be sure and get something like 30,000 diff fluid. for center.

[anothermbdusted]

thats what i was getting from sabr the steering plate(maybe wrong name sorry)
TITANIUM ROD $10.00
OFN18184-T
TITANIUM ROD REPLACEMENT FOR #18184. ROD ONLY
thanks for the info on the bulk heads also didnt know that just firured if the front is weak the back has to be also

and I am going to be using what I did in my 9.5 30k center 7k front and 3k rear...and will go from there

[Coconut]

Frank T: very nice looking truck. Wish I had the patience to paint like that. I hate masking a body and really don't enjoy painting.

[FrankT]

thanks coconut...Yea it does take some time..but I like painting.

[Jasio18]

I'm trying to drop in a new engine into my pirate...I am willing to spend about $150. I like OFNA's prices and their engines so I have chosen these 3..

Force .25 - 2.4HP not sure about RPM (25000-30000?) (too much fuel consumption)

Delta Force 8port (purple)- 2.3HP 40000RPM (pricey?)

or Hyper 8port - 2.3HP 38000RPM (good?)

I am not sure about these specs because different sites have different specs. If anyone owns any of these engines please write back with a review. I am mostly interested in the Delta Force 8port because of its power and RPM. Whats the cheapest price for it? Also, has anyone seen the HYPER 8port (not Delta force) cheaper than $129, if so where?
Thanx for all help

[anothermbdusted]

JASIO 18:
i can only help with the OFNA .25 engine and this is my opinion of it so someone please dont take offense to what I think of it...
The engine its self is a little bit of a witch to break in but once it does its a good motor overall...it likes to run hot to get any performance out of it im talking like 265F but once the engine breaks in fully the temps drop down to like 240ish.it took mine almost 1/2 gallon untill it broke in fully if i remember correctly....its got decent performance but it cant beat a paris picco four port unless you get it ported...I now have mine ported and it really screams now will have to post a video of it as soon as i feel better(have had a cold now for 3 days it sucks)...the temps drop down considerably when ported and on my mp i have the 65x13t spur clutch bell and it almost(didnt say it does)pulls the front wheels off the ground im sure it would if my clutch didnt need replacing...(its been abused to he** with my old truggy i had)it runs at like 235 if leaned out big time but normally it does about 215-220F.it also holds the carb adjustment well i think but this is only my 2nd engine ever and my first .21 class engine also...take it with a grain of salt.ok
personally if i had to buy a new engine witht he choices you gave i wouldnt get a hyper because of all the air leak problems i have heard about but thats again my opinion....i wouldnt get the delta force either because i think i heard someone say that they were discontinued and hard to get parts for but not sure on that might be something differnt not sure....i guess the engine choice for racing all depends on rather it is a short track or a long one and if for racing and also bashing

[fezzy]

I would strongly consider a XTM 24.7, It seems to be a right screamer of an engine and is really suited to MT's because of its power @ low RPM. The only thing it lacks in is cooling where you will have to buy a Crazy Nut Racing Head, Nova RC Head OR the XTM 21PRO Head (That fits the 24.7 block perfectly), I've heard from NTCMB who runs the 24.7 agains 8-Port Hypers that the top end between the two engines is identicle but the 24.7 gets there quicker.

[robc]

$119 Hyper .21 8-port www.ultimatehobbies.com

[Jasio18]

Thanx guys.
Anothermdusted...I will agree with you on the hyper and the air leaks. That may be a reason to eliminate the hyper 8. I am still not sure about the .25 It seems "too much" not in money but in size. Bigger displacment = more gas = less run time. I would like an engine that will pull the wheels off the ground. I am going to be replacing my wheels with road-rage tires and different rims. Also, clutch bell will be replaced.

I would like low end power and decent RPM...I know there are some engines under $150 that will do it but which ones?

Fezzy, do you know where I could get the 24.7 the cheapest and the head as well?

RobC, thanx for the site, I also found the .25 for $109 there (if anyone is interested in buying it).
Anyone has some insight on the Delta Force Purple???

Thanks to everyone

[fezzy]

http://www.littleshopofhobbies.com has the 24.7 for $125 if memory serves me right, the PRO21 head is $36.96

[Coconut]

The .247 also does not have as good a pull start as the Hyper. If you look around you might finad something like the Rb s7 for 200.00. By the time you add the better cooling head you will be close to that. That's if you have a starter box. It's really not much to seal the Hyper if you want one. The thing about running too low a gear ratio to lift the tires is that it will get to Max RPM quickly and you will have to make sure you don't rev it high for too long. Running at WOT for too long is a real killer of engines. That you are talking Road rage tires makes me think you might like more of a RPM engine. Set the clutch up with heavy springs to get the snap you want ;but lifting a Dominator takes a real compromise on speed and the things that get you there are hard on the drivetrain. I think anothermbbusted said he was running 13/65 gear ratio which is really low. Most are running something like 14/62 with any kind of HP engine.

[T-Maxxahol]

I have no experience with either the 8 port or the 24.7 ( i will soon with a ported 8 port) however Your comments on leakage and sealling the Hyper.........ABOUT SEALING.............
It has become my knowledge that it is a sound Idea to seal every motor u ever buy with high Temp RTV sili...u should seal around backplate pullstart, and carb.........THis will ensure no air leaks and will help create a smoothe low maintenance( tuning) motor... It will also help keep u away from those tuning nightmares u so often read about.....all in all two hours of insight will far make up for any lost time later in the life of that engine
( I always use the broken tip of a cue tip to apply and I apply it lightly but just enough that it pushes out of seams....)
I hope all this helps....any one that doubts....u can doubt.. i got no problems!!!

P.S. I have even seen some poeple who seal around the high end needle where the fuel pickup is (under +on top) this to me seems extreme. and im not confident enough to mess with it....

AGAIN I HOPE THIS ALL HELPS just my two cents

[drader]

I have the 8 port and I love it! I also had problems with Ofna engines leaking (years ago) but the 8 port is very well made; the pullstart is the best design I've seen, and the carb is easy to tune. It winds out like you wouldn't believe! Very hard to start for the first time, though; but I am really impressed by it. The .25 on my buddy's Titan was not very good. Then he got the .247... makes the Titan manic like a new Tmaxx (and the Titan is HEAVY.) Spins the tires on dry asphault, idles great, starts on 1 pull, and with the stock head it's not running hot at all. Even rich the .247 make gobs of torque, seems to get the same mileage as my 8 port. I don't know why people have problems with the pullstart - the motor is so great I don't think the pullstart will see much use! My vote is : .247 with the 8 port in second place.

[Philly's Finest]

Only two I would consider in that range would be the hyper8 and 247. Understand that both have their issues. As long as you know what to do to prevent BIG problems you'll like either one. I have never had the 8-port but I do have the xtm. It is very quick! And as someone already said it is a good practice to really check out a new engine & seal it properly. You don't have to but it is better to.

Hypers - Pigs to break-in if you don't have right needle settings. The ones in the directions are flat out wrong. Some leaking issues but they easy to tune & good pullstarter. Nice carb.

XTM- Really crappy starter. Crappy carb & head which forces it to run very warm. Takes some tuning to find the sweet spot but oh boy once you do. Gas guzzler. I didn't think that was a big deal but let's just say the lhs has now become my second home. I don't like buying alot of fuel at one time but I might have to start.

My 2 pennies

[anothermbdusted]

Yeah i am running a 13x65 right now will be running a 62x13,14 later on as soon as i get all my parts and onto the vehicle....going to see if i can get the wife to hold my little video camera tomorrow while i drive it so i can post a link to it or something...someone please let me know how to post a movie here so i can post one for you all to watch if you wish too....

[Coconut]

I be interested to see it. Wish I had a video for this but otherwise I'm really not interested in them. Can't help you as I pretty computer dumb and really don't care for them except for forums like this. On a side note;did you order the Sabr stuff;hopefully they sent mine out on Friday which is their shipping day. They still don't have pins( think they are waiting for Lunsford) but will use my stock hingepins. Not sure I don't have a OS curse on me as everytime I get daylight time to run in the new engine it rains and blows;cold.

[anothermbdusted]

no i havent ordered the parts yet .dont have the money for another week. will next wed though and then i should have it done by the end of the month i hope or first week of march...i ordered the pins from lunds got them the next day was impressed with the service they provided....should have it fully race ready with engine and all by april time i hope. race at the local track by march....

[browskiii]

Ok here is my two cents on the motex,my two brothers have the 8port in there trucks.Can u say pull start eaters,the first weak they owned them[they bought there trucks at the same time]they went threw 5 pull starts all together.They are still breaking them after the motors have been broken in.However they do rip once they are started.But i would not buy one just for that reason.I have been looking into buying the 247 or the force25 for my savage.My buddy just bought the titan with the force on it,the pull start seems to be a different design.It sounds like the one on the stock savage motor with the clicking.But ill have to see how durable it is.I have never broken one on my savage so if its similar it might be just as durable.My goal is to have my savage wheelie and keep up with my brothers trucks,will the 247 do that for me?I have never seen one run.

[T-Maxxahol]

but if they went through 5 pullstarts at 15 bucks each they should have just bought a starter box.. lol just as much and no hassle....... I hated pullstartin anything once u get a box u never go back

[Jasio18]

I have made my mind up to purchase the XTM 24.7
I am impressed by its power and torque, I could make up for the RPM by changing my gearing a little bit. I will wait on the head (need to get more $$$). I am waiting for littleshopofhobies.com to respond to my e-mail about the price of the engine. Fezzy I hope you are right that they sell it for $125. I looked on other sites and I found it the cheapest for $140. If anyone knows of it being sold new for cheaper let me know (already checked ebay :-)

Thankx Simon.:)

[anothermbdusted]

im going to through a wrench in here for ya to think about ok...the .247 has alot of bottom end no doubt about it at all but by the time that you gear it up for speed your going to get the same speed out of a stock .25..i know this because i have ran against a stock .247 and a ported .247 with my at the time stock.25 and now ported .25 at both times i can win it in top speed no problems at all....off the line a stock .247 will smoke the stock .25 but a ported .25 can actually smoke a ported .247 in the bottom end and also on the top end...at least mine can when its tuned right...i screwed up and listened to someone that thought they knew everything about engines and got to retune it now:mad: and with the .25 you dont need to get a new head for it where as the .247 You Have Too....so by the time you buy a new engine a new head and new gearing you could have also bought a motor that dont need the head and the gearing and all and will smoke the engines mentioned here....like the RB s-7 or so forth. just my 2 cents so for ranting and raving lol

[Philly's Finest]

Were you running the same exact trucks with the same exact set-up?

The 247 has same top speed of a 8-port & more torque. IMO it's the best bang for the buck. I paid 129 for my 247 at hobby people but I'm not sure if they still have it at that price.

[anothermbdusted]

when i ran my .25 it was already ported against another .247 that was ported and i ran it in my 9.5 rtr against another 9.5 pro same gearing and all. differnt springs and shock oil ,diff oils really the only differnce between the two...my buddy runs his .247 in a savage and the other guy has a stock .25 and the .247 will smoke it on bottom end but the .25 will on top end...but the the .25 ported will smoke a ported .247 when ran against one another..maybe its the port job i got that is better then his i dont know but i only know that mine beat his in every way shape and form and still does

[Jasio18]

I saw the .25 in action on a 9.5, it looks big and has pretty good power. I don't believe that the .25 will be enough to get my MP wheels off the ground. I am not worried about the speed anymore. I won't be racing the truck, just messing around in the dirt.

I got this message from Little Shop Of Hobbies:
"Simon, total cost for XTM 24.7 w/ insurance & shipping would be $131.48.....hobbi"

That price makes me happy... :D
I will order soon (probably this week)

I have also purchased a dremmel minimite tool from tower hobbies. Where can I find info on how to port an engine?
thanx
simon

[twisted]

to each thier own but when i see a big monster like a monster pirate i dont think of how fast it is, i wonderhow well it will handle and jump.i do like power but speed is not my objective,big air is and serious offroad action.i just wonder why speed is at the top of everyones list.

[Coconut]

I really think both are important to most people ;they are just discussing engine power at this time. I think you can also add durability. The forum is full of discussions about all three.

[drader]

I am happy to say that my MP with Hyper 8 port is faster than every Tmaxx it has encountered, faster than a Titan, and just plain fast! Kinda surprising with those big meats.

[Jasio18]

coco is right :)
I am looking to hook my MP with some Road Rage maxx tires. I will have them on RPM monster clawz rims. What do I need to put those wheels on my MP? whats the part number?
Thanx :cool:

[twisted]

im not busting on anyone that loves speed,i just read alot of people talking about the speed issue most. hey more power to ya if thats what floats your boat! :D

[gweecho]

i would say speed is among the most discussed topic because
of the competetive nature of our hobby. and in live in general
for that matter. dosent really matter what it is you are doing
even as children competing we alway say bet i can beat you
to the tree or bet i can do this faster than you. and lets face it
when on lookers are watching who ever wants to be the slowest.
the last one is always the rotten egg. :D

[Jasio18]

So what kind of an adapter do I need to put Maxx rims on my MP???

[Philly's Finest]

There are adaptors. I wanted to get them a long time ago but just stuck w/ mt3's. I forget who makes them but I'll look for them.

edit: Racer's edge makes what you are looking for http://www.tpbweb.com/web/pages/pl1.asp?pageid=5226&website=www.rccargods.com (here)

[Jasio18]

will the road rage maxx tires fit on the MT3 rims?

[Coconut]

Sure;they fit any of the standard size Maxx tires.

[Jasio18]

Do I need any kind of an adaptor to put the MT3 rims on my MP?Thanx

[cxdxh]

HEY GUYS, I HAVE MP/DOM ADAPTERS THAT NOT ONLY LET YOU USE THE VARIETY OF TMAXX TIRES BUT ALSO WIDEN THE DOM OR MP BY A FULL INCH. EMAIL ME AT CXDXH@YAHOO.COM FOR MORE INFO

HERES SOME PICS AND MORE INFO

http://216.89.252.161/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=34;t=23224

[Philly's Finest]

No I don't think so Jasio. As long as it's 17mm hub they'll work. I beleive it's the exact same part on the dom, I think the difference is that the mp rims are bigger.

[anothermbdusted]

jasio i have a MP and i have chrome mt3's on mine and work with no adapters at all..just like philly said above Almost all 17mm rims will fit as long as the offset is with in reason but yes the mt3's fit on it

[Jasio18]

WOW! THANX! saved me about $40 :D

[Jasio18]

:) I need to find out about clutches. What kind of a clutch will I need if I want very quick response? Meaning, I want to pull the trigger and be already going, not standing there while the engine revs up. :) What are the advantages and disadvantages of this? I am making a wheelie monster out of my MP. I am placing an order on the 24.7, the 650 Paris Racing pipe, mt3 rims and road rage tires. Any other things I may need for a wheelie? I know I'll have to change my gears cause of wear soon. :) Thanks for all your help guys!:)

[Coconut]

To get more snap and less slipping you have to have a clutch that engages after the end revs some. There are several options. Some use aluminum clutch shoes with heavier springs like the gold OFNA or the Mugen 1,1 springs. Others use the composite shoes like the Mugen. Then their is the sliding clutches by Feroni. I haven't personally thried all these;I don't want wheelies personally;but thing that the sliding clutch with the right shoes might be what you want. They make I think three shoe types and a turbo and not turbo. www.rcdiscounters.com carries the sliding clutches. There is some threads on sliding and other clutches on www.maxxtraxx.com big block forum.

[NSBD 1]

Well what do you think of it


http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL24/813878/1704526/20080635.jpg

http://pic3.picturetrail.com:80/VOL24/813878/1704526/20080619.jpg

[Jasio18]

Looking good, especially with those high-socks. lol
Where do you get those things at? I like the paint job, I wish I could paint like that. I'm in the middle of painting my proline 50's chevy truck body....its gonna be one color :( .gotta love the classics. :cool:

[NSBD 1]

I got the socks at www.socks4shocks.com Ithought they where going to be flouresent but guess not. They have many colors. Thanks on the paint job it was copied from the Proline add for the sierra body...

[Jasio18]

AHHH!!!
Damnit!
I messed up while painting the body. I was applying the second coat when I noticed air pockets in the "bed liner" of the truck. It messed up my project!!! ahhh!!! :mad:
I was hoping and praying for this to come out right, damn!
towerhobbies is gonna make a fortune out of me buying bodies from them

[mercenario27]

The New Ofna Board is up Click Here (http://pub77.ezboard.com/bofnaracingnitrotalkback)

[Jasio18]

They have a Pirate10 forum but no Monster Pirate....thats outrageous, lol
Dominator and MP are a little different. There is enough difference for the MP to have its own forum.

[Jasio18]

Here are some pics of my MP. All stock except for that air filter. Gonna drop in a 24.7 within a month and waiting on the Paris Racing AL 650 to be delivered. The red body is what I have just finished painting and started to cut out (look at the cargo bed, notice the air pockets :( )
The other body was the first thing I have painted outside of art class....the paint chipped off and it looks like crap (good body to bash around with, and don't ask about the LRP stickers ;) )

http://www.81x.com/Authors/jakubprokopiuk/Picture%20002.jpg

http://www.81x.com/Authors/jakubprokopiuk/Picture%20005.jpg

http://www.81x.com/Authors/jakubprokopiuk/Picture%20001.jpg

http://www.81x.com/Authors/jakubprokopiuk/Picture%20003.jpg


http://www.81x.com/Authors/jakubprokopiuk/Picture%20004.jpg

[mercenario27]

If all of us email the Ofna web master I think he should change the thread to MP/Dom

post a picture when the body is mounted.

[Jasio18]

All I need to do now is the body post, engine, fuel tank, and antenna holes :D. Already installed the Paris Racing AL 650 pipe. It was kind of hard doing the pressure fitting...thank god for Dremel tools
:cool:
http://www.81x.com/Authors/jakubprokopiuk/sss1.jpg

http://www.81x.com/Authors/jakubprokopiuk/sss2.JPG

http://www.81x.com/Authors/jakubprokopiuk/sss3.JPG
WOW, I just noticed that my shock poped out! Damn screws...need some loctite

Anybody have this body (proline 50's chevy?) I need to see where you drilled your front body posts

[RCfun12]

I heard Ofna motors are hard to start is that true?

[anothermbdusted]

depends on what you mean by hard to start......hard to start when new and breaking it in or in general and over all???if new yeah its like any other engine on the market....get some gloves if you got a pull start......if you got a starter box no big takes a second longer...if hard to start after break in??No mine fires up in like 2 seconds on a starter box and when i had my pull start like 2 pulls and it fired right up but the pull start broke so i use a box...as long as the needles are tuned right then no they are not hard to start. actully on my .25 its easy to start...

[fezzy]

Depends which motor you mean, My Hyper21 is an absolute NIGHTMARE, Sometimes I don't even wanna run the truck because the ammount of energy I have to put in starting the engine.

[RCfun12]

So the stock Monster Pirate motor is it hard to start or is it pretty easily? And one more question is it durable and reliable?
Thanx

[mercenario27]

My original Hyper was a pain to break in. After that it was like a Toro Lawn Mower, Started on the first pull. I bought a force .25 to replace it with. Its been way to cold to break it in, waiting until spring.