RC Lab Forum

[7even]

Hello everyone:

I run the RC Lab 7even pro kit. It's new in the US. Not many know about it. It's a great kit and I'd be happy to answer anyone's questions about it.

:D

[ovalnator]

can you hook us up w/ pics??? Ive heard of the car and am very interested in finding out more info

[chizzler]

if you guys need any info on it check out www.rclab.com (http://www.rclab.com,) if you need more details on pricing and such check out www.mdiracing.com (http://www.mdiracing.com) and drop them an email!! :D

[ 09-11-2001: Message edited by: chizzler ]

[XXXER]

How about I move this into the "RC Vehicles Forum".

BTW, I really like the design of this car, I am a sucker for Carbon Fiber!

[7even]

thanks, XXXer...didn't notice this forum! ;)

[7even]

ovalnator: I'm taking some pics...but Chizzler did give you the right web addresses. I get my stuff from MdiRacing too. Kit was $190. Their site isn't finished yet, but I know they focus on this car as their own team cars. for pics check out the rclab sites: www.rclabusa.com (http://www.rclabusa.com) www.rclab.com/rclab.html (http://www.rclab.com/rclab.html)

[ 09-11-2001: Message edited by: 7even ]

[ovalnator]

Thanks. The car looks sweet; just may have to buy one of those too.

[7even]

UK site: http://www.rclab.co.uk/
review in UK: http://www.rcracenews.co.uk/articles/rclab.html

[mracer63]

yeah...7even!

[chizzler]

hey florida guys, just put in an order for mine finally!!!! :cool:MDI :cool: :D
Seems like everyone runs the labs there!

[Mracer63]

I've got a turnbuckle assembly sheet if anyone wants one for the RC Lab. The manual isn't to scale so you will need a tape measure or something similar w/mm on it. Most Americans just don't have these. I can email a .ai or .eps or.jpg file so you can be sure to have it to scale.

[chizzler]

send one my way.....

[B3Tyler]

Whats up? I too run a RcLab. Where do you run? And whats your IM ? maybe we can talk

[Mracer63]

CHIZZLER - didn't you get one from mdi? They would have included it w/the kit. didn't they? or have you not got it yet?

[chizzler]

oh, i didnt know they would include it, cool! guess i dont need one then!..... :D

[7even]

my AIM is mdezin

[Mracer63]

I've noticed that there are a couple of screws I have to tighten after a few runs. That's about it. I haven't broken anything on the car yet really. Nothing that would stop me from running. bumper...oops.

[7even]

I run the sway bar kits on my 7even. With the stock suspension arms the mounting "balls" are molded on...so they can break. I have broken the front balls off (ouch). Rear ones are the metal screw-in type of ball joint ball. Go figure, I haven't broken the rear balls off. Anyway, just thought I would mention that. I'm still running the same stock arms though...just no sway bar in the front! I want to see how long it takes to break an arm under normal use...

[7even]

The Delrin upgrade arms need the screw-in type of ball joint ball front and rear. They shouldn't break. :D

[7even]

keep in mind that changing to different aluminium or delrin items can also change your set-ups because they have different degrees on them...let me know if you need more info on this, I'm going to make a chart I think.

[7even]

I still haven't broken my car I'm happy to say. I stipped out a rear shock mounting hole but was able to just screw into one of the 2 other holes for next heat. I had spare arms but didn't really need to change it out for that...I'm amazed at the durability of this car more and more :D :eek:

[fmolzer]

Guys, I am just building the 7even and love the kit and the quality of the parts but I have run into 2 problems:

1: When I put the front belt on the pulleys and tighten the front bulkhead down, the belt becomes way too tight. The rear one with the tensioner is perfect, but the front one causes the entire chassis to tweak about 2 mm front to rear, have you experienced this? I have checked the assembly and it seems I am doing things the right way, but there must be something i did not catch.

2. Front one-way: The front one-way came preassembled, but one of the sidewalls on the pulley (the walls that prevents the belt from slipping of the pulley sideways) is delivered separately. The manual shows this sidewall installed but offers no clue on how to install it. I can't figure it out by looking at the parts. Am I supposed to glue the parts together, or is there a proper way of doing this. :confused:

Any input highly appreciated.

Fredrik

[chizzler]

hey fmolzer im currently building mine too, i dont know why you belt is tight, that seems odd......:confused:

WORD OF WISDOM: dont overtighten the screws that go int othe hubs, theyll strip (ooops, found that the hard way...;))

about the one way im planning on glueing it, seems like the only logical thing....:)

[chizzler]

since no one has posted pictures yet, heres some for all those to see :)
http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/128-chizzler/rclab1.jpg

[chizzler]

here is a shot of the rear diff........


http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/128-chizzler/rclab2.jpg

[chizzler]

the front end of the chassis..........

http://www.clikshow.com/rc/garages/128-chizzler/rclab3.jpg

[fmolzer]

Hi again averyone,

I have solved my problems: I had accidenatly used the rear hubs up front and vice versa. It seems you can use the front hubs in the rear with no problem, but the rear ones up front will cause the belt to be very tight. I guess I have to pay more attention to the manual :D

As for the pulley, I have confirmed that you are supposed to CA glue it, but it does not tell you to do that anywhere in the manual. I decided to sand the surfaces a little to get the CA to stick real well and it seemed to do the trick.

Going forward, the car should be ready in another couple of days. It sure looks fast, Let's hope it can give those XXX-S cars a hard time at the track...;) My only concern right now is weight, I don't know where it will end up, but judging from the rather big components, it will not be a light weight car. I might opt for the carbon fibre shocktowers to lighten it a bit, but will try the stock towers first.

Does anyone has track/race experience with this car yet?

[7even]

It's quite easy to accidentally put the rear alum.bulkheads in the front and vice versa. They are similar enough in appearance for sure and they'll fit too...right until you find the front belt is WAY TOO TIGHT!!!.

More than a few have learned that the hard way.

If you put the alum.diff. up front the car is easier to drive for sure and I recommend it unless you race tracks that are long w/sweeping corners. A track w/tight corners is a little tough to drive w/a one-way up front.

[fmolzer]

I used to race my TC3 with a one-way at our local track and liked how that handled, so I will try the one-way first. My general driving style is relatively smooth and I only use brakes when absolutely needed so I think it will work for me. I guess I will know once I try it, I will keep you all posted.

[Mracer63]

if you are running on high-grip or carpet tracks, the one-way may not be all that bad...give it a try before spending money if you don't have to.

[Mracer63]

check out the pics on the RC Lab USA site. They are of an MdiRacing body/7even car.

http://www.rclabusa.com/gallery/index.html

[Mracer63]

setting up my RC Lab w/all the hop-ups...very cool so far...no slop at all w/all the new stuff...I'll post pics as I'm finished.

[fmolzer]

Mracer63, let me know how you like the grapite shocktowers. Do they do anything good to the car? reduce weight? less flex? just curious.

[fmolzer]

I Finally have my car together and setup. First race is next Thursday. I am a little worried about the staps that hold the saddle packs down. It seems that there is not much to protect them from sliding sideways. I would have preferred a more solid side support. The cells do fall down into the groovew on the chassis, but not very much.
I also put the car on the scale. Fully loaded, the weight is 1600 grams exactly. (564 Ounces). I will try to find a way to lighten it a little bit. I am still curios on how it will handle and how it will stand up against the XXX-S cars that dominate our track.

[ivannaxray]

i was wondering what this car's going price tag is. I am looking at all the available options and i think the T1 is on the top of my list but the cost knocks it out. Then the XXX-s seems great and at a good price but now the 7even or whatever may take the top spot, but first i was wondering how much it is going for and what that price includes? thanx for your help.

[chizzler]

the chassis is $190 for everything you see above in my pics....:)
aluminum motor mounts, carbon grapnite, and a oneway is standard in the kit

[ivannaxray]

hey thanx but i was wondering how the car has held up in actual races. is this car a :) or is it a :( thanx a again

[fmolzer]

ivannaxray,

I have raced my RClabs just once, going at it tonight again. I think it is very competitive and very solid. I used to race TC3:s, the RCLab is definately more crashfriendly. The suspension parts are very sturdy and can take some hard hits without bending or breaking. The CVD:s are also beefier than on most touring cars. Add to that a car that handles real well out of the box and is very well balanced and you have a winner. Get the kit from Les at mdiracing (mdiracing.com) he knows what he is doing and has everything you might need in stock. He is a great guy to deal with. Good luck !:)

[ivannaxray]

I was asking Pete (rcca guy) for his thoughts on the car b/c i noticed that it wasn't included in the tc shootout in the december 2001 issue. he said they were trying to get one but it just didn't get there in time for them to be able to do a little blurb about it. I will get back on once he respnds and let you all know his thoughts

[chizzler]

our thoughts are much better than those of any rcca staff i'd say.
this is an imported car that not many people use, and at rctech . net, we have a long thread with guys who have used this car since its conception (dating to the 5.2), with countless hours and setup tricks, as well as custom parts........this is definately not your "average car," more of tight knit family of racers' car....:D :)

good luck on your decision..:)

[fmolzer]

I did experience one problem with the battery straps of the car. Does anyone have a betyter solution for firmly attaching the saddle pack to the car. I use the lower holes for the clips, and the pack seems to be strapped in real well, but after a hard encounter with a wall, the pack still broke loose and caused me to DNF. Nothing broke. After that I used tape to hold the cells down, but I feel this is really a temporary fix. What do you guys do? Have you noticed the same problem?:confused:

[fmolzer]

I finally found a very good set-up for the car for carpet tracks. I will still play around a bit with the swaybars, but I will post it here by the end of the week. This car is really fast when you get it dialed in.:D

[_neas_]

Any good carpet setups? Mine is shipping to me now

[fmolzer]

neas,

I wish I could post the sheet, but here is the basic info that I use:

front:

Shock oil: 60, springs: kit. shock length: 64 mm. Mounting positions: as per kit instructions. 0.5 degree toe in. front one-way.
tires: take-off 27 w/ medium inserts. caster 5 degrees, camber:
-1.5

rear: Shock oil: 55 springs: kit, shock length: 64 mm. Mounting positions: as per kit instructions, but for lower shock, I use the outer position there. tires: take-off 22 w/medium inserts. camber: -1.5

Also: Install 4 shock O-rings under the rear upper deck and use thread lock on the screws. This makes the car easier to drive. I am currently using a 31 pinion and a 93 spur for a tight carpet track and stock motor.

This set-up makes the car easy to drive. I started with 40 shock oil but the car was very loose. the thicker shock oil was the best change I did.

Let me know how it works for you.

[_neas_]

I haven't gotten the kit yet, so I am assuming you mean that the top deck is held on with four screws and to sandwich the o-rings between the mounting 'posts' (don't know if thats how it is or not) and the deck then secure with the screws?

So how does everyone like the kit straight out of the box? Is it pretty quick? Our track is shorter and more technical so what motor do you think is appropriate? I have a Peak Spitfire and a Reedy MVP right now...at the track the Peak's seem more popular.

Thanks for the help.
-S

[fmolzer]

neas,

The car acctually has 2 upper decks, one front and one rear. Use the O-rings under the rear upper deck. and yes, you sandwich the o-rings between the deck and the aluminium hubs that it screws onto. clamp the screws down so you compress the o-rings with about 25-35 percent or so.

Another issue that it does not tell you in the manual: The front one-way comes pretty much assembled, but you need to CA the right pulley "beltretainer" ring onto the pulley. It took me a while to figure out. It works real well, but be careful not to get CA in the acctual teeth of the pulley. I run on a relatively tight track with basically just one or two straights where you can go " all out" I am using a P2K pro and it seems to do the job for me. I would think any stock motor that leans towards the torque side rather than PRM would be good.

Good luck with the build. let me know if you need any more tips. My car has held up real well despite numerus hard contacts with the boards. So far, the only part I managed to break was a rear carrier and that was after a VERY HARD blow to it. This car is very durable.

Good luck :)

[fmolzer]

I tried out the swaybars on the carpet yesterday. I must say that although wityh my other cars, I have always found a benefit using the swaybars on carpet tracks, with the RCLab, I really prefer how it handles without any swaybars. But again that is just me. Does anyone else have any input on this? I should have spent the money on carbon fibre shocktowers instead...:rolleyes:

[_neas_]

Not sure on the sway bars...I havent quite got my kit together. Anyone here have vers II? I just got the kit, and some parts have changed I think...but they don't quote it in the manual. Its not necessarily hard to figure out..but its kind of a pain (the manual isnt that great anyway...they should hire someone in here or in the UK to go over it and proof-read before they printed it up). Anyway, the motor mount is three pieces now...so where you have two pieces before, with one having more material on for screwing into the motor now there is two pieces the exact same then a 'plate' that you screw on with four screws...it doesnt say what screws but in the bag there was four 'longer' screws and four shorter ones...the longer ones were longer exactly by the thickness of the new motor mount plate...so they went on one side (pinion side) passed through the motor mount plate, into the mount that is screwed to the chassis, into the heat sink posts (the ribbed posts that run horizontally) and into the other mount , then attached on that end with the shorter screws.

Steve at SpeedTech mentioned about not using the posts (he was refering to the first version I think) on the motor mount but instead using two of them infront of the rear bulkhead and screwing them in from the bottom of the chassis...then setting the top deck on and not screwing the deck (the rear top deck) onto the bulkhead, but one screw hole foward, into the heatsink post...this was to give the rear some flex.

I dont think you can do that with vers II though....I think you need all four posts on the motor mount, that is how that plate is attached...I couldnt figure out another way keep that new 3rd motor mount plate on there.

Also, Steve suggested that I possibly shave off some of the top decks, because it might be a tight fit and be putting some strain on the driveline (because they wouldnt be true...the chassis and decks wouldnt be parallel because the top decks might be too long and bow some when they are fastened down). On my kit that doesnt seem to be a problem I dont think...I have put the decks down and they lay right on the bulkheads and the holes line up fine, with small gaps between each part of the bulkheads and the decks.....I might not know how well it will work untill I get the entire car together...

Anyway, I am going to copy this to Steve and SpeedTech and see what he has to say.

I would apprecieate any assembly advice from anyone that has version II

thanks
-s

[HotTrick]

_neas_: Do you know what the purpose of the 3-piece motor mount is versus the older 2-piece? Is it just to save some weight by eliminating some aluminum? It would seem that after adding the steel screws to put the motor mount plate on, you would wind up adding more weight with the extra steel screws versus a little more aluminum. Just curious:confused:

[_neas_]

I am not sure of the difference between the three piece and two piece motor mounts, other then the obvious. Maybe it saves weight? Is there a problem with the one piece, as far as getting a motor on there?

It comes with a 92/32 set of gears in 48 pitch correct? What if I want to run 64 pitch...what should I get, what sizes? I am horrible at gearing....I am running stock.

http://ielhp.spokane.cc.wa.us/rclab/closeupofmotormount.jpg
http://ielhp.spokane.cc.wa.us/rclab/rearview.jpg
http://ielhp.spokane.cc.wa.us/rclab/sideviewofmotormount.jpg
http://ielhp.spokane.cc.wa.us/rclab/topviewfront.jpg
http://ielhp.spokane.cc.wa.us/rclab/topviewofmotormount.jpg

[_neas_]

Hey, I am at a total loss when it comes to gearing. Can someone give me some decent stock setups for 64pitch gears? Something for torque, something for the middle and something for more top speed? I have the stock setup on now...its 48 pitch, 35 and 87 I think?..its the one that came with the car..

Anybody?

[White cat]

Originally posted by _neas_
Hey, I am at a total loss when it comes to gearing. Can someone give me some decent stock setups for 64pitch gears? Something for torque, something for the middle and something for more top speed? I have the stock setup on now...its 48 pitch, 35 and 87 I think?..its the one that came with the car..

Anybody?

Which stock motor you are running?

[_neas_]

I am running a Peak Spitfire right now. Most guys at the track are running that. It seems to be the most popular now. After that, GM3 and P2K's. I double checked, and the stock setup is 48p 32/92 on the RC Lab.

Thanks for the help.

[White cat]

I run stock with a final ratio of 5.8-6.5. It depends on which motor I use and track layout.

If the track is big and smooth, I will go for lower ratio. if the track is technical, i will go for higher ratio.

I am not familiar with Splitfire, so I can't tell you which ration you should use. My MVP runs 6.3-6.5 and my P2K runs 5.8-6.0.

The final ratio of the stock gear (32/92) is 6.133.

[_neas_]

I found this ratio thing on a RC site in the UK, it has a chart and I can find the stock ratio there and move up and down a few to give myself some options. Since I am horribly impatient I ordered some 64p gears from stormer last night. I have 120, 122,..and I will have 124, 35, 35, 37, 38, 39, 40. I bought Robinson Racing and Kimborough so hopefully that will work out alright.

I am going to look at that chart and figure out if I need to call Stormer and amend my order any... :)

I would say our track is shorter and technical...with one or two good straights (depending on layout).

The Spitfire is more for torque. Thats what I was told anyway... :)

[White cat]

Originally posted by _neas_
I would say our track is shorter and technical...with one or two good straights (depending on layout).

The Spitfire is more for torque. Thats what I was told anyway... :)

Running a torque oriented motor at tight track is a wise choice. You can try a final ratio of 6.0-6.2 with your Splitfire. The spur/pinion combo of this range would be:

128, 45-43
124, 44-42

Hope this help. ;)

[_neas_]

Thanks for the help White Cat. I ordered some gears so hopefully they will be here this week. I got in the range you (and others) were talking about.

Well, I finally found the time to get down to the track for some practice. The only place I have run the car was on the floor in my kitchen :) so obviously I wasnt able to open her up like I would have.

I get down there and it just doesnt want to move...looks like the rear diff is really loose. So I get it all alpart and tighten it down...still the same problem. Its loose, even when completely cranked down. So I take out the manual and compare as I take it apart. Apparently I forgot part 11 (5x7 plastic bushing) from the first page of the manual...I am not sure how I missed it, its the only black piece in the exploded view of the rear dif in the manual.

I just got home and have looked all over the work area...I dont seem to find it, the bushing. I saved everything as I worked and have it all in one container...but the dif was the first piece I put together...so I might have lost it.

Anyway, anyone know what it looks like? is it soft or hard plastic? think there is something comprable from another kit? I do have an HPI Pro 2 sitting here...

My lhs doesnt have any RC Lab stuff...not much of anything really..unless its AE or Losi. I want to avoid having to order an entire dif just for one part.

Not a fun day. :(

Later
s

[fmolzer]

I tried running with just the front swaybar yesterday, works great and rubbed another 0.2 secs of my avarage laptimes. I did notice that the RCLAB ballcups on the swaybars hit the steering linkage when you are giving steering input (max). This makes the ballcups break if you happen to clip a board at the point where your front wheels are turned in max. I went through about 4 ballcups, got tired of it and tried the associated ones instead. They work like acharm and have not broken yet, after a whole racenight. They are very tight snapping into place, but once they are on, they stay on. Just a tip.

Fredrik

[chizzler]

wow, this thread is growing, cant wait till my racing season starts again! ;)

[White cat]

Originally posted by fmolzer
I tried running with just the front swaybar yesterday, works great and rubbed another 0.2 secs of my avarage laptimes. I did notice that the RCLAB ballcups on the swaybars hit the steering linkage when you are giving steering input (max). This makes the ballcups break if you happen to clip a board at the point where your front wheels are turned in max. I went through about 4 ballcups, got tired of it and tried the associated ones instead. They work like acharm and have not broken yet, after a whole racenight. They are very tight snapping into place, but once they are on, they stay on. Just a tip.

Fredrik

RC Lab is developing the new ballcups with better material. They are being tested in Southern Cal now. The result is positive so far.

[_neas_]

I heard that if you race stock the plastic outdrives are a benefit so I ordered them. I just got them and I think I have a problem...there is no diff rings for them.. The plastic outdrive kit comes with both sides and 'bushings' made from the same material as the outdrives. I assume you are supposed to pop those out and put in bearings?

Anyway...my kit is a ver II and the diff rings are fused to stock outdrives...thats the way they came, and if I really tug on them they still dont come off (if I bend them I am screwed all together and have to wait another week....so I am not going to pry them off).

Anyone else experience this? Am I supposed to buy some diff rings special for the plastic outdrives? Or do they run as is...(I put it together as is..and its rough, I assume they need diff rings). Also, do I pry out the bushings from the plastic outdrives and put in bearings?

I am the only one in my area with a 7even so I am kind of flying blind.

Thanks
-s

[cannonball]

Hello

Thought I would say hello and introduce myself. My name is Mike Carberry and I am an RC Lab Team Driver from Scotland. I haven't had the car that long, but I'm very impressed with the car's build, ease of set-up and speed!

I have been running with the front one-way unit in, with the 32/15 gears. I have been informed by Mike Smith from Modeltech (Uk Importer) that the car will be even puncher with the 37/17 gears installed.

Also another tip to make the Lab faster is to take the shield off one side of the bearings that go in the hub. And to (EVO/1 kits only) super glue the plastic bearing holders on the top layshaft to the motor mount, this helps to eliminate vibration and aids in a smoother running car.

I'm not an expert on the lab, just an average racer who loves racing! If I find something that works i will post it on here for your viewing and comments, as well as reading about your thoughts and findings on the Lab.

Until then, Happy Racing to you all.

Mike C

p.s.

I have a website, www.rc-cars.2ya.com there is a few pictures of my cars on there, it's a bit of a basic page but if you have the time, please give it a vist, thanks Mike!

p.p.s

I started a new thread, by accident, not competiting with this one. Just started night shift, and suffering from lack o' sleeps!

[cannonball]

A spray of motor cleaner dissolves the gunk thats supplied on them, then they just pull away after that..

Cheers

Mike

[cannonball]

Has any one tried this mod, it increases mid-corner steering! Picture is attached of the mod, hopefully it uploads!

Heres the link to the page with the mod, parts needed etc;


http://www.rclab.rochen.com/rclab/7-6prosetups.htm

Cheers

Mike

[StevePond]

I took the liberty of moving the other thread, and renaming this one to simply, "RC Lab Forum."

[RcLaB1]

this car is really becoming popular.
the quality is great on this car.

i would really love to race the car, but
the nitro scene here is great.
anyone want to share their experiences with
the RC Lab car?

my RC Lab is for sale in the
for sale forum.

thanks

RcLab1

[cannonball]

Hello all

I was wondering if there was any interest from RC Lab owners if Titanium Diff outputs were produced, would there be a demand for them?

Cheers

Mike C

[RcLaB1]

for sale
brand new, never ran, assembled
rc lab 7even 6.0 pro

100 dollars

[HotTrick]

cannonball: I can't see too big of a demand for Titanium Diff outputs being that the Aluminum ones should be lighter to start with and the composite ones to be the lightest of all. They would have a cool factor though, but that's about it in my opinion, unless of course you can get them for a very good price, equal to or just slightly higher than the aluminum ones! Just my opinion though, maybe some of these other guys would like them in Ti!

What I would be interested in Titanium would be the Spur and pulley shaft, much lighter than the stock steel unit. Are you implying that you can make such parts or of someone else who can?:)

[cannonball]

The Spur adapter and the layshaft have changed in the new EVO/1 kits. The Spur adapter is aluminium, and you can also buy a blue anodized unit. A new Ti layshaft assembly is on it's way, and sounds pretty good.

As for the diffs, they are smooth enough, it's the strength factory, considering how much stress a diff will take during a race. The Aluminium units are light, but wear too quickly, the New Delrin versions are very light, but I'm not sure if they will be tough enough! Ti diffs from Titanium Racing, based in England, if they make produce them would be to an extremely high quality! My mates Ti diffs in his T1 have been ran for 8 months now, not even a scratch on them! Still look brand new. They may be slightly heavier, but they have the durability! Cost about 30 pounds a pair in the UK.

Not that expensive, and worth the money.

As you say, every one has they're own opinion, I've had different results.

Mike

[HotTrick]

Yeah they would be stronger but I haven't heard of anyone breaking the aluminum ones. I had a set of Barracuda Ti outdrives on my Losi XX4 and found that Ti also wears very quickly like aluminum. The slots in the outdrives were egged out in no time. Ideally you would have to use the blade system with both the Ti and aluminum outdrives to keep them from wearing out. Once that is done they should last practically forever! Like I said if they were not much more than the aluminum ones I would pay a bit more to get them as replacements, it just seems like Ti is always noticably more expensive than aluminum.;)

[cannonball]

Titanium Racing uses a different grade of Titanium than the other manufactures. The Diff halfs would be machined for the Blades, and would last forever! My mate is a test driver for Titanium Racing, his job is too test the parts to destruction and to find faults with new designs. He hasn't found many faults and hasn't destroy a part yet! The parts are made to last, very high quality and have an amazingly tough hard coating on them!

[t3dude]

what the rc labs web site? i had it once and ii lost it.

[cannonball]

www.rclab.co.uk is the UK site. www.rclab.com is the main site, it has links to all the others.

Mike

[RcLaB1]

hello, just to inform everyone,

the RC Lab 7even was track tested

in Xtreme R/C magazine, August Issue 2002.....

The RC Lab did great on the the test it went through.


comments from you all are greatly appreciated.

[cannonball]

It did very well in a Radio Race Car International review to. No dislikes and loads of good points!

It's tearing up the tracks in the UK @ the mo! Broken a few track records and gaining a lot of favour from other drivers!

Mike C

[WFO]

d

[WFO]

[IMG]\

[cannonball]

Has any of you guys tried this before?

I was testing and thought I would give it a go. It has caused a bit of a stir in the UK. New parts are being tested by ModelTech to further aid the laydown shocks.

I'll try and keep you guys posted!

Mike C

[HotTrick]

That laydown suspension setup reminds me of my FSR Bullet! How well has this setup worked for you so far? On the FSR most people chnged this type of setup to a more upright setup with new parts from FSR. I know that my FSR with the laydown setup used to hop it's tires around sharp corners alot (the rear only) but it did handle well!

Also the Ti layshaft that you mentioned a while back, who will be carrying this? Is it a RCLab product or from another manufacturer?

Thanks in advance

[cannonball]

Hi HotTrick

the suspension set up has worked very well for myself, when I passed it on to Mike Smith from Modeltech, the UK Importers/Distributers their test had very positive results!

If you ride the curbs a lot, it will unsettle the car, due to the movement of the shocks in a laydown position...good for cornering at high speeds, but not on a excessively bumpy track.

The Titanium Parts we have available to us in the UK are made by Titanium racing (www.titaniumracing.com) who manufactuer parts for most popular cars and also export to the States! If there is enough positive feedback for a part, the Diff halfs for example, then Ti Racing will probably produce them!

Hope this helps!

Mike C

[Xray Joe]

Bump! Here's some pics of my 7even custom anodized red.

[Xray Joe]

bump

[jay272]

Hey lab owners. I know of at least 3 people (including myself) who want to buy this car. Seems like a good price for a car that looks this beautiful. But, is it worth it?? Does the car break alot, and are the parts usually in stock at speedtech? How does the car handle? Is it good for stock racing? Any weird problems? Any info would be cool!! Thanks

[4x4rust-o-pede]

hey guys

new to the forum, but i am mostly at rctech.

jay272 - coming from a 14 year old the lab is a great car, it is a performer right out of the box, just get a ball diff instead of the oneway(unless u know how to drive with them!) just pretty much work up from the stock setup, u could use it if it works! just look around and ask around u will get many different perspectives!
here are some OLD pics will update in a little bit!

http://pic2.picturetrail.com/VOL9/862591/1560268/18279610.jpg
http://pic2.picturetrail.com/VOL9/862591/1560268/18279607.jpg

BTW the motor is just a speed gems i stuck in there!


nate

[jay272]

Nice pics!!! I've gotta get one of those things. I wish there were more hobbyshops and distributors that supported this car and it's parts.

[jay272]

Have they ever mentioned this car (RC Lab 6.0) in RC Car Action?? If so, What did they say about it? Also, it seems like this thread is dying!!:confused:

[ta03 tuner]

Where can I find more info on this car?....can it be purchased here in the USA?....Anyone who knows...speak up!:)

[Lab-driver]

jay272- Xtreme RC did a review awhile back, i think i have it somewhere, Ill scan it if i can find it. They liked it alot.

ta03 tuner- I've had a seven for 2 years, i can give you almost any info you want or you can check out http://www.rclab.com . Speedtech RC (www.speedtechrc.com) is where I get all my lab stuff.

[ta03 tuner]

Wow! This car sounds awesome! I'm an avid Tamiya driver but for $200 bucks, this is the car to get (versus $280 for 414trf!) But anyways, is there anyway that I can get this car to use a stick pack configuration? At my track, for pro stock class, we can only use stick packs. Is there a conversion of any sort or will I simply have to tape the pack across the chassis?

[4x4rust-o-pede]

hey guys

ta03 tuner- yes there is a conversion for stick packs, you can go to the rclab forums at rctech.net ask the guy chrisman, he has some

hope that helped

nate

[kart38]

I am buying 7 even 6.0 off of ebay and was wondering if there was any way for me to tell if the car was an Evo1 or Evo2. Well, anything obvious. Also what are the differences between the two? Thanks for answering my, most likely dumb, questions.

Looking forward to getting the car :D

Jason

[ta03 tuner]

c'mon fellas! Any lab drives left? I'm getting a 7evo7 from hong kong next week...can't wait to see the looks of people's faces when I beat them with it...lets keep this thread alive!

[nomac]

BUMP,BUMP,BUMP........three years later, LOL!!! i got myself one for carpet racing but need diffs.....seems there's no more help in the US. :(

[nomac]

getting more replies thru PM's than i EVER imagined about this car!!!! with any luck i can have it on the track by New Year's!! thanks all!!!!!

[nomac]

um....almost there....where's all the "LAb" help gone? LOL

[nomac]

threw the car in the trash....

[butters]

I just bought a Seven 6.0 Version II for $90.00 dollars new off of ebay.

Good? or Bad?

[hardrider]

Anyone here still running this great car?

[tonygray]

The company has closed down. Sorry Buddy but you can forget about the lab now..