HPI Nitro Rush Forum

[rushmadness]

Hey can someone help me!!!!!!!! my clutch bell and pilot shaft wont come off! Im not sure why maybe my racing clutch is hugging the pilot shaft too much????

[RushMan86]

hey man, yea just take the racing clutch off and use your glow plug wrench it will come right off. And if it still doesn't heat it up to loosen the lock tite.

[rcboy717]

Good thinkn' Rushman!
I never thought of useing heat to loosen lock tite. duh!!

[chevelledude33]

im interested in a new engine. Right now im looking at the os 15cvx, the hpi 15ss and the hpi 12rss. What would you prefer and would these drop in without major mods? Also i was looking at them and the crankshaft looks different would i need a new flywheel? I have the 15fe and the stock flywheel and an anodized purple one with a collet.

[RushMan86]

Well I had a 12R SS engine, and honestly i didn't like it that much. Its very hard to tune. If i could do everything agian with those 3 choices i would go with the 15CVX Its a good reliable and fast engine. Nothing would be needed to just drop it in besides HPI Aluminum motor mounts.

[chevelledude33]

thanks:)

[Chevyman#59]

alright, here is a new pic of my truck with some new graphite parts.
WARNING: it is a relatively big pic

(the third picture on the top is the newest one)

http://groups.msn.com/JCsRCRacers/shoebox.msnw

[duratraxman]

hey hows it going?
all right i have been searching for the right beginner nitro truck for about 2 weeks and still searching.

i have looked at the rush and want to know is it reiliable? fast? and will it take mild abuse?

the other car i have lokked at is the duratraxx nitro evader

tell me what you like and dislike about the rush. thanx you guys

[Chevyman#59]

The rush is a great beginner truck. It is very durable and can take some punishment. The downside is that some people have experienced some chassis bending with the older versions. I still have the older version and have not had any problems yet and i have really smashed it a few times. Luckily this has been fixed with the new kits and if you have an older kit, hpi will replace the chassis for free. Another good/bad thing is that if you really want to race it competetively down the road, the upgrades needed to make it a contender are expensive, but that will be the same for any beginner truck. Also, a really good thing is that there are tons of upgrades available for it from a variety of companies.
So, in summation, the rush has its good points and bad points. the bad deals mostly with chassis bending but has supposedly been fixed by hpi for the new kits. The good is that it is very durable, and can take a pretty good beating. Another good thing is that if you want to race it down the road, it can be done, just with a little $$$.

Good luck choosing and remember, have fun!

[RushMan86]

Yea i experienced chassis bendings with both my rush' IT was easily fixed with NitrusRush's custom chassis and upper decks. There only dollars plus shipping and he can make them anyway you want. My first upgrade suggestion!

[chevelledude33]

hi im interested in nitro rushes custom chassis'. Where can i reach him or email him. One more question im thinking of upgrading my rush to racer status and would like to know if hpis ball diff set is any good?:)

[Chevyman#59]

I know that a lot of people run it, but i don't. It is a relatively high maintenance item and to be honest with you, i don't have the time to ad that to my list of things to check pre-race.
Also, it performs the same function as the gear differential already in the car, so why change it? At least thats my reasoning behind not getting it. I guess what im trying to say is that i have better things to spend my money on than a ball differential.
I may upgrade later on to it when my gear diff is gone, but for right now, im satisfied with what i have.

[Anemic_SluG]

The difference is the ball diff makes cornering way smoother.... a bonus but yes it is tons of maintenance...so out witht he ball diff till I have time to rebuild it with tons of lok tite, and back in with the gear diff. If you plan on racing I have like 3 diffs put together at all times, the gear diffs unload in the corner at times and also wear out quickly but are usually more reliable than the ball diff it tends to come undone. There is a few ways to seal a gear diff and add oil to it to change the way it handles that might be a good comprimise. Hey it is good for 1/8th scale buggies it should be good for 1/10th scale trucks. Go for other mods before the ball diff, like CVD's and graphite shock mounts, as well as upgraded shocks.

[chevelledude33]

alright ill get a graphite upper deck instead. Will i be able to reach the low speed needle if i drop in a 15 cv-x? the fuel tank looks to be in the way.:)

[Chevyman#59]

unfortunately, the fuel tank is in the way, but once you get the low end mixture right, it shouldn't need much, if any, tuning after that.

[chevelledude33]

Thanks man. You guys are more helpful than hobby shop. lol:D

[Nitrus rush]

Hey chevelledude33, e-mail me at Jax100386@yahoo.com and take a look at my site for details on what I sell. here (http://nitrusrush.tripod.com/the21rush/id10.html)

[tl01boi]

i rebent my rush chassis staright lol and i have extra hpi sport 2 suspension arms and axles should i try to put them on my rush ands make it a 2 wheel drive on road car hahah
and also nitrus rush u think u can make a hpi sport 2 chassis i would payu

[rccarkilla]

Hey guys,

I've just secured a deal with a guy wanting to buy my HPI Pro2, which means a load more money which I'm gonna throw at my Rush! lol

I'm going to have £260 ($430) in total, which means I can buy quite a bit, but I'm not going to spend all of that on my Rush obviously.

I'm going to add:

Hitec HS605 Hispeed high torque helical gear servo (throttle)
GPM front shock tower
GPM rear shock tower
HPI Ti turnbuckles
Proline dirt paws on F5 yellow rims (rear)
Teamline intelligent failsafe w/hitec y-lead connector

That little lot should keep me going for a little longer. I'll have pics when I get the new bits...

=chris=

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by tl01boi
i rebent my rush chassis staright lol and i have extra hpi sport 2 suspension arms and axles should i try to put them on my rush ands make it a 2 wheel drive on road car hahah
and also nitrus rush u think u can make a hpi sport 2 chassis i would payu

Yep, I can make the sport 2 chassis, you'll just have to send it to me to make the aluminum one from and then ill send it back with the aluminum chassis when im done.

[tl01boi]

email me at KhMyazNbOi@yahoo.com and tell me how much it will cost i want the thinnest alluminum u have since its a electric car

[ssclone]

hey is it possible to put a 360 stinger pipe on the rush at all? i like the way they are and was just wandering if it is possible.



aaron

[rcboy717]

I'm thinkn' I might get that ti chassis that f4i modelsport Racing makes (check it out here: http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/ click on products and then the little hpi in the uper left.)
but I not sure what bell crank system to get for it. He says the the one on there is for a MT or something, but It's to tall for the rush and it's just on there so you can get the idea. also what turnbucklse would fit best?

Thanks!!

BTW it's sweet how this forum is really picking up. Only 255 more pages untell we have the same number of pages as the RC10 forum.:eek: :rolleyes: (at least last time I checked.)

[rcboy717]

wait a sec!... when I say how great it is that this forum is really picking up every one stops posting? :( :rolleyes: :p :)

[chevelledude33]

ok, heres a question, how much does the rush weigh in pounds?:D

[Anemic_SluG]

Ok Bellcrank steering....aghhh 1 night in the cellar I decided to put a bell crank system on my RUSH!

OK I used Prolines system for the super nitro and it doesn't come as pictured on the Tower Hobbies site. It doesn't have the adjustable center turnbuckle it comes with a fixed graphite one. So problem 1 was it going to fit. well it does. I sanded the original posts that hold the upper deck to the chassis down so they would be the same diameter as the cranks bushings. I used an old bushing on each side to push up the cranks. That fit perfectly with the precut spacers that come with the kit. I drilled my holes for the servo and boom Bellcrank steering. It was a pain and everything didn't fit as planned but it works and is much more stable than stock. I also used 70mm turnbuckles for the steering ends. The only clearance problems I had was I needed to use Team Associated ball cups because they are smaller thanthe HPI or RPM ones. Good Luck!! If you need any further questions answered please let me know!

[Canada]

I have a question I do not know anything about off road truck but I have little experience in on road. What would you guys take if you had the choice between a monster truck or a rush. I am leaning towards the rush becuase of the cost but will it not as fun to drive because of the limited ground clearance and what kind of beating will it take, would a rush be as durable say a savage. Also how old is the rush will HPI continue to stand by the rush for another couple of years, I don't feel like buying one then it becomes obselete. Any awnsers appretiated.

[ViperR]

Weight of a stock Rush is : a henway

[nitrorush89]

is anyone want to buy a rush olny drove it twice after i breaking in
the engine and it stock so if you want it it $350.00 canadien and e-mail me at t_maxx89@hotmail.com for info;)

[RushMan86]

Canada: I have a rush and a savage. I have driven the savage once or twice mainly because of defects and what not. But the factory is obviously taken care of that. The rush will not become obsolete in a couple years mainly because none of the HPI products have. You asked if the savage is more durable then the rush and the answer is yes. Its 1:8 scale and also has a different design than the rush. The rushes weakest point is the chassis but that can be easily fixed by one of my buddies with a durable and good looking custom chassis. I have never had any problems with the rush and i have owned it for over 2 yearS! Great truck.

[nitrorush89]

hey what is better truck thr rush or the rustler like in speed and power and how can you get 47 mph out of the rush with out changing the engine

[chevelledude33]

You cant. lol If you want 47 mph my guess would be to drop in the new 2.5 it is the most awesome small block ive ever seen. Why dont you want a new engine?:D

[Canada]

Originally posted by RushMan86
Canada: I have a rush and a savage. I have driven the savage once or twice mainly because of defects and what not. But the factory is obviously taken care of that. The rush will not become obsolete in a couple years mainly because none of the HPI products have. You asked if the savage is more durable then the rush and the answer is yes. Its 1:8 scale and also has a different design than the rush. The rushes weakest point is the chassis but that can be easily fixed by one of my buddies with a durable and good looking custom chassis. I have never had any problems with the rush and i have owned it for over 2 yearS! Great truck.
Thanks for awnsering rushman I am still undecided though tough desion basically it is all about $$$$ and if I want to spend less money on racing my NTC3 :rolleyes:

[rccarkilla]

Rushman89 -

The std Rush engine has 0.56HP and tops out at about 30,000rpm. Pretty tame huh? The Traxxas Rustler's 2.5 has over 1HP and about 40,000rpm (est) but the price of the kit reflects that.

If you want the car to go around 45-50mph, there is no doubt about it - you WILL need a new engine. My STS MT12 (1.35hp & 38,000rpm) should reach around 40-50mph hopefully, but that's only because I have a 14tooth clutch bell, and huge 5inch Masher 2k tyres (raises the final gear ratio).

The Rustler is a bit brash in my opinion. Traxxas makes a lot of it's vehicles sound amazing to new-comers by putting out high top-speed figures. The rustler has always been geared too high (especially with the old TRX.15). Maybe now the TRX2.5 has been fitted it'll have better acceleration.

The Rush is undoubtedly the stronger of the 2 kits. The Rustler has a decent chassis, but the geometry is messed up (take a look at the layout and you'll understand). The Rush is better at handling due to the fairly equal lateral wieght distribution, and jumps much better through the air.

The Rush's pitfall is the chassis, but it can be fairly simply sorted with a custom brace of some sort. Some people opt for the more complex route and redesign the whole chassis. Generally, they remove the side walls, andfabricate it out of a thicker more durable material, and get rid of the dreaded ' weak spot'. Others just simply attach a metal strip which is bolted over the engine mounts to reinforce the weak area. Both work equally well.

Overall I'd have to say I'd take a Rush out of the two trucks. It has one of the most beefiest front-ends ever seen on a 1/10 stadium truck, and is also a very well handling, and nippy machine. Reviews say the Rush tops out at around 33-36mph - not bad with a simple engine like the FE!

The traxxas Rustler is also worth a good look at though, and you never know, for what you want you might be better off with a Rustler. In my opinion, the rustler is aimed at running in places where there is masses of room, and not many large jumps. The Rush is more controllable, tougher and better on the jumps though.

=chris=

[RushMan86]

hey evryone i recently traded for another rush and i want to make it into an on road killer. I have everything planned out and fitted except the 2spd and i was wondering if this one would work....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=KYOC6161&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

[nitrorush89]

hey i got a rush a year ago but only drove it twice and i saw the rulter but i have a picco 12 that i put in the t-maxx but it relly sucked so i took it out and i want to know if it will work in the rush

[Chevyman#59]

What kind of shock setups are you fellas running? I am trying different setups and want to see whats going to work best. I would like to know what springs you all are running (front and rear) and what weight of oil in the shocks (front and rear).

Right now, im running yellow springs in the front, blue springs in the rear, 30wt oil in front, 40 in rear. This setup seems to run really well onroad, but unfortunately, i haven't been able to test it in the dirt yet due to snow. I have a feeling it will really hook up on the turns, and get a bit loose coming off the turn when throttle is applied just like when i race it onroad.

Thanks in advance for your replies.

[RushMan86]

hey chevyman i run the exact same set up only with different shock oils. In the front I run 50wt and in the back i run 80wt with a little 10,000 diff oil mixed in for heavy jumping... Works great on road and the front hooks up incredibly well for turning and rear keeps chassis off the ground all the time.

[RushMan86]

hey chevyman i run the exact same set up only with different shock oils. In the front I run 50wt and in the back i run 80wt with a little 10,000 diff oil mixed in for heavy jumping... Works great on road and the front hooks up incredibly well for turning and rear keeps chassis off the ground all the time.

[Roscoe]

Nitrorush89, the Picco will not work in the Rush. A T-Maxx and a Rush take two different-sized cranks. The T-Maxx is made for short-crank engines, like the RC10GT's and such use. The Rush is made for a standard crank, which means your Picco's crank will be too short to work in the rush. Looks like you've got a nice Italian paperweight on your hands.

[darkman]

Sorry if this is a re-hash of the topic, but I got no response in the General Nitro forum, and I burned out after about page 6 in this one. :p

-----------------------

I race a HPI Nitro MT (bought used and abused) and my wife races a mostly stock HPI Rush (RTR).

I just figured my wife just wasn't as good a driver, but last weekend, she broke her Rush, but still qualified for the B Main in Novice. I let her run my NMT in the B Main and she spanked the competition. She said that my truck was SO much easier to drive. (I think she drove the NMT better than I do, but don't tell her I said that. )

So, now we're trying to figure out why the Rush handles so bad. I've had all kinds of heck trying to get the rear suspension to look right. Out of the box (RTR) it sagged real bad, and I'm still not satsified with it. We've tried various shock oils, springs, etc. Bascially, I've got two sets of the largest spring spacers I could find and the hardest springs I could find. That seemed to get the dog bones level. Other than that, all the suspension settings are stock.

The thing just oversteers like crazy. It's hard to keep it going straight on the long stretches. I'm wondering if it's just getting tire spin all the time or what. We're running real soft proline fuzzies on a hard clay track.

Any advice? I don't even know where to start.

[ViperR]

Big difference between racing a 4x4 and a 2wd stadium. All 2wd's are light in the front to control and make-up for what the rear is pushing out. The key is to make the rear stiff and sit high while forcing the front wheels to dig-in and respond to steering.
It's all in the spring/oil set-up. I run my Rush with purple/50 rear and stock black/40 front. Smokes Assoc 2wd. I believe my difference is the sway bars I snuck in my fronts. It keeps the rubber planted on the track no matter what angles the A-arms are at. Of cource I use the softest bar of the kit to keep the A-arms nimble. Works for me, but I like my travel stiff. No sag and yet the bouncy traits of a stiff ride gets you out of jumps much faster.

[RushMan86]

where did everyone go?

[ViperR]

I'm wondering the same thing. We were talking about springs,oil & whatnot for the best set-up for the Rush. Maybe it was my comment on how there is a big difference in 4WD vs 2WD for racing and how light the front ends are on 2WD's and how the key is to keep the front wheels planted and dug in for better steering.
Well anyway, how's the weather by you Rushman86?

[Chevyman#59]

Im still here. Just getting ready for the upcoming season. Im making my next big purchase in a week or two. Need to buy a Fantom .12, starter box, and all the other engine accessories to keep this engine in shape, not like the fe, lol... I can't believe how badly i have abused that thing.
I went to ************** and they said that the fantom .12 engine that they have is the new '03 edition, and its way cheaper than any other place i've went to. They are selling them for $95 shipped, thats an awesome deal to me.

[ASSASSIN]

:( :( :( :( :( :(
My rush just got totaly raped by the curb. If you go to general discussion you can see all the crap that broke. There goes like 300 bucks. Plus all that retuning. My rush was my favorite car, I feel like I just got shot in the knee. Damn, looks like I wont be beating any more gt's and xxx's any time soon. :(

[ssclone]

well i've been here waiting for someone to post something. well my rush is being a shelf queen right now. it needs a new steering servo (stupid me played w/ it in the snow w/out balooning it up) .but cant wait until spring, accualy going to take it out. havnt really played w/ it, since i got it in november. but it still needs a lil tuning. i hope i burn up that fe in it so i have an ecuse to get a new one. (maybe a 2.5 or something of that sort).



aaron

[Nitrus rush]

Man, ASSASIN, that really stinks. I sell custom parts if your interested. Look here (http://nitrusrush.tripod.com/the21rush/id10.html) for details. As for my rush, I'm in the process of making a 3 point solid stainless steel roll bar. All that's left to do is weld it together. I now have a new project to put my customizing touch on, my new rolling chassis Tmaxx. I plan to make a custom extended chassis, custom rear skid, Hyper .21 or Hyper 8 port, and a nice steering servo, but I first have to cough up the cash. If you havent seen my rush yet, look at my site, http://nitrusrush.tripod.com

[ASSASSIN]

My #1 priority is getting a new engine. I have most of the stock parts I can replace for now, but my engine is totaly iced. Im gonna seriously consider that custom chassis though. I cant believe how easily the 2.5 mm aluminum and graphite top plate broke. I consider my self to be a good driver (though I do sometimes gun the throtle a bit to long:D ) this is the most parts Ive ever broken in one crash, also the most expensive single crash Ive had.

[aipseros]

WOW! Guess what, I got banned for telling some guy to kiss my *** last night. This is the 3rd time I got banned now. hehe, thought you were gonna get rid of me eh?

[bmxrider]

can someone help me. what would be a good pipe for my rush? i still have the stock fe (waiting to burn it out).


also my steering servo is messed up, when i turn it like clicks and is weak, like with a stripped gear but their not stripped. ill prolly replace it anyway if yuo cant help

thanks,bmxrider

[ssclone]

well first off a good pipe would be the MIP stinger pipe, then get a header for it as well.

as far as the clicking is and the weak servo is....i'd try putting new batteries in the truck, and see what it does. then look and see if the servo saver is hitting any bolts.






aaon

[Nitrus rush]

I broke my stock steering servo.......and i didn't even crash into anything. It kept clickin and it wasnt turning good. So i took it apart, realized some of the gears were stripped and also that it was a piece of crap, and threw it in the garbage. I upgraded to bellcrank and Hitec 645mg servo. If it is clicking when you turn, and it's not hitting anything, gears have to be stripped somewhere. Inspect it thouroughly, the teeth are very small. For any small block engine, i'd recommend the RC10GT tuned pipe.

[Kenny123]

My friend is going to sell me his DuraTrax Overdrive St, or his HPI Nitro Rush for $140. Which is a better truck? They both have only had 1/2 a gallon of fuel.

[RushMan86]

obviously everyone in here is going to say the nitro rush, well mainly because it is!

[Chevyman#59]

Rushman86, i concur, lol :D , but seriously, i would pick the rush because i feel the design is more supierior to the dratrax, just my opinion tho.

[Nitrus rush]

Definately the nitro rush. The duratrax st might be bigger, but the rush's design is far superior. Take it from me, i've had first hand experiences with duratrax vehicles. The rush may not be the most flaw proof car, but it can be fixed to be a great r/c. Some major problems with duratrax vehicles are weak rims, defective engines on somepart, not a very well-thoughout design, weak drivetrains, and for vehicles like the Nitro Demon, Nitro Quake, and Axis, only a few parts were changed and they were basically all the same. Some of the rush's downfalls are the weak chassis (which I countered with a custom one of my own), weak turnbuckles, and a weak steering servo. Other than that, it makes to be a great stock stadium truck. With some hop-ups and work, the rush can be fixed of all the flaws, just look at my .21 rush.........http://nitrusrush.tripod.com

[Kenny123]

How does the Rush handle? I want to know because I’ve only have 4WD cars and I don’t know how 2WD handles.

[Nitrus rush]

With the right setup (tires, springs, shock oils, etc....) the rush can handle pretty well on a variation of surfaces including asphalt, clay track, and dirt. Just at high speeds the turning is noticabely impared, especially with high powered engines, because the front wheels are lifting off the surface.

[bmxrider]

well i fixed my servo and now on to the pipe,
what stinger should i get cause a towers says they all fit hpi . 15 engens or shouldf i get the turbo ring pipe me likes the price:D

[Nitrus rush]

If your talking about the Paris turbo ring, it's a good pipe. But if you want something just as good, the RC10GT pipe is probably cheaper and just as good, if not better. I have no experience with the stinger pipe, but to have it rear exhaust, you will also have to get the 180 degree header. I think the RC10GT pipe is your best bet.

[bmxrider]

ok thnaks nitrus rush]

[nitrovortex]

hey fellow rushers, i heard that to use the 14 and 15t clutch bells that you need engine mounts :confused: is it true???? mine is still stock apart from air/fuel filters and fibre disc brake, trashed the stock body today.

[nitrovortex]

hey fellow rushers, i heard that to use the 14 and 15t clutch bells that you need engine mounts :confused: is it true???? mine is still stock apart from air/fuel filters and fibre disc brake, trashed the stock body today.

[LokiOs]

do any other tires fit on the rush? I have a boat load of associated / Kyosho tires, but have been thinking about getting a rush. If the associated rim would fit it would make my decision a little easier.

[ssclone]

nitrovortex- i think you could just get the differnt tooth bells, and wont need new motor mounts..but im not too shure



LokiOs- i have imex g-hawgs on my rush but i got the HPI rims on it.. if you want to add differnt rims to it get the HPI wheel hub adapters and it should do the trick.



aaron

[Chevyman#59]

yeah, the associated velocity rims for the t2/t3 work on the truck, those are the rims i am running on mine, all i have to do is take off the hex hub thingy (for lack of a better term at the moment) and just put it on so that the pin fits right into the slot.

[RushMan86]

NitroVortex, yea you will need to get new mounts if your going to put bigger clutch bells on. Mainly because of gear mesh. But if your skimped for money as I always am just use the HPI Aluminum mounts(non-heatsink). They are like 4 bux and will hold you over till you can buy some nice ones like wolfpack or something.

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by nitrovortex
hey fellow rushers, i heard that to use the 14 and 15t clutch bells that you need engine mounts :confused: is it true???? mine is still stock apart from air/fuel filters and fibre disc brake, trashed the stock body today.

Yes, you do need engine mounts for an option clutch bell, because the gear mesh will be off and you have to adjust it with the optional engine mounts.

[darkman]

Does anyone know the Tower Hobby numbers for a CVD kit for the Rush? Is there any such animal? Whould the MT rear kit work? One last thing. I've lost the tiny rubber donut that spaces the dogbone at the diff end. Will I need to replace that when I swap in the CVD kit?

So many questions, so little brains. :P

[jimbonj]

The NMT rear kit fits the Rush.


HTH. Jim.

[Rushevaderacer]

Can any one tell me any other bodies that fit the rush that are not hpi.

I have all 4 of them:rolleyes:

[Anemic_SluG]

Originally posted by Nitrus rush
If your talking about the Paris turbo ring, it's a good pipe. But if you want something just as good, the RC10GT pipe is probably cheaper and just as good, if not better. I have no experience with the stinger pipe, but to have it rear exhaust, you will also have to get the 180 degree header. I think the RC10GT pipe is your best bet.

The MIP Stinger will not fit the Rush. I have it for my GT and you need the shock tower and they do not make one for the Rush. I would go with the Associated or RPM pipe for the money they work well and increase the low end torque.

[Anemic_SluG]

Originally posted by Rushevaderacer
Can any one tell me any other bodies that fit the rush that are not hpi.

I have all 4 of them:rolleyes:

I have the Crowd Pleazer for a XXXNT on my Rush it fits ok. I also hear any body for the GT will fit as well.

[Rushevaderacer]

Thanks

but will the holes line up

[Nitrus rush]

The stock body mounting holes won't work on an aftermarket, non hpi body, so you'll have to mark and drill your own.

[Rushevaderacer]

Oh ok

thanks

[Sebring]

Here they are..

A couple months ago, I bought a used Rush off of my friend with the intention of making it a project vehicle..I've got just about every hopup available on it (All the graphite parts, the stuff from GPM, etc.), and I hit the track with it the first time yesterday, and found that it still understeers like nothing I've ever driven before. The turning radius also needs some work, since our track has a lot of hairpins. I've got Bowties on the back, so I'm sure they're plenty sticky enough for the track's surface..It needs a bellcrank steering system, I know it. The direct servo saver system just doesn't work well enough. I know it was designed to have one, because it's got the holes in the chassis for the servo to lie down. Anyone know of a bellcrank steering system that will work with it? I was thinking about a T-Maxx style steering system..but I'm not sure if it will fit under the graphite upper deck.

Also. Anyone know what happened to the RS2-ST racer that was supposed to come out? A while back in the RC Car magazine review of the Rush, it was said that a racer version was supposed to follow soon after..and one never came..

I KNOW for a fact that if I could get the truck to stop understeering as much as it does, it would hang with Associated and Losi trucks with no problem. It's plenty fast with an Ofna Force 12 it's handleing just leaves much to be desired.

[Chevyman#59]

You can do a few things to fix this understeer problem, you can either go with stiffer springs in the rear of the car, go with higher wt oil in the rear shocks, go with softer springs in the front, or go with softer oil in th the front shocks, or you can even try a combo of these. The first thing i would do is experiment with different springs, since this will be the easiest way to correct the problem, and then i would move onto shock oils if it didn't get corrected much. But remember, the stiffer the rear of the truck becomes, the "looser" it will be because the lateral forces cannot be converted into vertical movement (the boddy roll of the truck in the corner is where the tires are hooking up) quickly enough so therefore the rear of the truck starts to slip around. Sorry if that is confusing, but good luck.
I'd have to agree on the steering system, i really hate it, lol. I am trying to see how it could be done at the moment. I know Nitrus rush has a bellcrank system on his truck and its pretty awesome, in fact, he has a post on here about it a couple pages previously to this post.

Hope i offered some assistance, if not, o well, lol. But sincerely, good luck.

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by Chevyman#59
You can do a few things to fix this understeer problem, you can either go with stiffer springs in the rear of the car, go with higher wt oil in the rear shocks, go with softer springs in the front, or go with softer oil in th the front shocks, or you can even try a combo of these. The first thing i would do is experiment with different springs, since this will be the easiest way to correct the problem, and then i would move onto shock oils if it didn't get corrected much. But remember, the stiffer the rear of the truck becomes, the "looser" it will be because the lateral forces cannot be converted into vertical movement (the boddy roll of the truck in the corner is where the tires are hooking up) quickly enough so therefore the rear of the truck starts to slip around. Sorry if that is confusing, but good luck.
I'd have to agree on the steering system, i really hate it, lol. I am trying to see how it could be done at the moment. I know Nitrus rush has a bellcrank system on his truck and its pretty awesome, in fact, he has a post on here about it a couple pages previously to this post.

Hope i offered some assistance, if not, o well, lol. But sincerely, good luck.

Yes, I do have the bellcrank system, but I still haven't gotten around to giving instructions on my site on how to put it together. The bellcrank system is definatly better because, 1. The bellcrank system is a like a servo saver, and plus the servo saver on the servo, it'll be hard to strip a metal geared servo. 2. You do get more steering and more adjustability.

I used a bellcrank steering kit my lhs had just sitting there, and i put it together, and went from there. Hopefully soon, i'll have some instructions on my site on how to do it. Until then, visit my site, http://nitrusrush.tripod.com , to see some pictures of how i setup the bellcrank.

[Sebring]

I see what you mean. I've got yellow springs in the front, blue in the back and 40wt all around. I'll play with different setups and see what I get.

I was thinking about using the T-Maxx bellcranks because the Rush's holes in the bottom of the chassis that are predrilled for a laydown servo are drilled like a Losi truck, with the servo going left to right instead of front to back. The Duratrax Evader and Nitro Evader use a simillar system, so I'll see if I can find the bellcranks for those, and see what happens. The only thing that really concerns me is the distance between teh holes for the posts (I'm using the graphite upper deck) and the place where the kick-up angle starts. I tried using the system off my RC10GT, and it was too long. I'll try the Evader's cranks and see whatI get.

Any news on the RS2-ST racer? I thought it was kind of odd to release a 4WD race truck when there is no 4WD event, but then hold back on the 2WD racer..Odd.

[Chevyman#59]

How about we wake this thread up?

Are you guys all getting ready for the upcoming race season, or summertime? What all have you done to your trucks recently?
I currently am finishing my truck finally. I've just added the Fantom fr12 and a lightweight flywheel, and a 14t clutch. I have also decided to give the associated pipe a whirl because it boasts really good torque. we'll see, i'll post some pics later on this week possibly.

[ssclone]

i was just thinking about posting on here too.

i have done nothing to my rish cuz i still need a servo...but i did run it and i did do a few burnouts w/ it as well.

i have a question.....here it goes.......i was looking in my tower cat. and HPI has a 2spd tranny that can buy for te RS4 and ae i was wandering if this would work on the rush? also will any of the hop up parts on the rush as well?



aaron

[Nitrus rush]

I can tell you to fit the RS4 2 speed will definately take some serious modification, and I dont even know how it would fit on there. If youre willing to spend the money, I'd say for it and make it fit on there. As for AE parts fitting, that would not be too many. Maybe titanium buckles would fit, and some other small hop ups would fit, but thats about it. If i could get my hands on a cheap rush roller, I would make a custom chassis and fit an RC10GT and its transmission components on it and would make it super tough with all the steel gears aftermarket companies make for it. I have currently started up my rush and for not being run in about 2-3 months, the .21 beast started right up and was firing just like it used to. I hope this thread livens of some more!!! Also, I got in contact with a friend and I might be able to get short video clips goin of my .21!

[Sebring]

My summer time is year round. Heh. I love the California desert. I just finished breaking in and tuning out my Ofna Force .12, and let's say it's a massive improvment over the OS .12CV-X I had in it last summer. This thing hauls butt, and the engine's only 69 dollars. For anyone who wants to race a 12 and doesn't want to spend a lot of money on a race worthy engine, definately go with the Ofna Force .12 or Force .12 pro. Here are the Force 12's specs.

Horsepower: 0.56 BHP at 29,000 RPM
RPMs: 3,000 - 30,000 practical range
Length: 74mm (front of crankcase to back of pull start)
Height: 86mm(3.40")(bottom of pull start to top of head)
Mounting Holes on opposite side: 1.22" (31mm)
Mounting Holes on center front to back: .48" (12.1mm)
Distance from drive washer to end of starter case: 3.31" (84.0mm)Width at widest point (mounting flanges): 39mm (2.54")
High Speed Needle: 2-1/2 turns out from closed
Low Speed Mixture: initially flush with carb housing, turn clockwise
using small 1/8th" turns to lean out mixture.
Maximum running temperature: 250 F

It may not have the sheer BHP of some engines, but as light as my Rush is, it hauls.

[ssclone]

was it a drop in a go type motor? or did you have to do any mods?




aaron

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by ssclone
was it a drop in a go type motor? or did you have to do any mods?




aaron

Being a small block .12 size engine, he probably didn't. All he probably had to do was get engine mounts, flywheel, collet, (or just use the stock flywheel), and if it was a slide carb, make a new linkage.

[ssclone]

ok..well i was jw because you will never know every motor could be differnt.

here is the .12 pro for 109 out of stormer

ofna force .12 pro (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=OFN50125)

there is the .12 foce for 59 out of stormer.


ofna force .12 (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=OFN50121)

the last one if what you got right Sebring ?

does ur rush do wheelies now w/ this motor?

it does say it fits in HPI's so i guess that means not alot of mods right?

i think im getting the .12pro if i get any motor.



aaron

[ssclone]

is it possible to run a 360 stinger on the rush? if so one for which car?




aaron

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by ssclone
is it possible to run a 360 stinger on the rush? if so one for which car?




aaron

You can, but there isn't a specially made shock tower like on other vehicles that can use it. But, there probably is a way to run the pipe through the hole in the rear shock tower. If it wouldnt fit, you can always make some kind of custom aluminum shock tower.

[ssclone]

ok.. i was looking on the MIP site and they have a 360 stinger kit for the rs4 nitro micro i was liek whoa, but i doubt that would wor. i could just rig up a new shock tower.




aaron

[darkman]

A while back, I posted questions about the handling of my wife's rush. My NMT out handles the Rush by a long shot, but it is 4x4.

I played around with the rush and found that at half throttle or less, it oversteers dramaticly, basically does donuts. As I gradually increase throttle from half on up, it goes quickly into understeer to the point that, at full throttle, it goes almost straight. Yes, at full throttle and full crank, the truck goes very nearly in a straigh line.

I had hoped the handling problems were related to tire spin or something easy like that. Not so. It seems to me that the front end just isn't getting any bite at all at higher speeds. Obviously getting zero bite at full throttle.

I'm running 40 wt. shock oil all around, blue springs in front (I'm not sure what brand, but their a little stiff) and the hardest springs I could find, plus spacers on the rear.

Next, I'm going to put softer springs on the front, and I was thinking about getting some proline "Blade" tires, with nobies on the outside edge and ridges on the inside.

Of course, I am open to suggestions.

[RushMan86]

hey man longer shocks in the front are good too. Because when u gun the throttle the front end lifts up big time. I put longer shocks on the front and it dramatically increased the handling performace. Also the addition of sway bar set also helps alot because there is alot of chassis role in corners. The stiffest in front and rear work great for me.

[ssclone]

im looking at getting a new motor for the rush in a month or 2. i was wandering about running a trx .15 or the new 2.5, would either of them fit?

i know that the trx.15 will out run the fe and it is only 95.00 for the one w/ the pull start, if so which size crank should i get..the short, standard, or long?

or should i go w/ a 2.5? its 150.00 out of tower. what all would i need to do for it to fit the rush? weould i need to buy the .15 to 2.5 conversion kit for the rusty for it to fit?




aaron

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by ssclone
im looking at getting a new motor for the rush in a month or 2. i was wandering about running a trx .15 or the new 2.5, would either of them fit?

i know that the trx.15 will out run the fe and it is only 95.00 for the one w/ the pull start, if so which size crank should i get..the short, standard, or long?

or should i go w/ a 2.5? its 150.00 out of tower. what all would i need to do for it to fit the rush? weould i need to buy the .15 to 2.5 conversion kit for the rusty for it to fit?




aaron

Both of them will fit with standard cranks. The 2.5 has stock mounting holes and is a small block, so it will fit. It will be harder to fit due to the weird rear exhaust manifold setup, but however they have the exhaust working on the nitro rustler, it should work on the rush. Also, due to the slide carb on the 2.5, you'll need a new linkage or make a new linkage to get it to work. In my personal opinion, i'd bye something a little better like an O.S. engine for their power and reliability.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Hello!

Please note that unsolicited links are not permitted. The "home page" field of your profile is the onyl place it's acceptable to have a link to your homepage. - Admin

Anyways, I just bought a Titanium chassis from a guy name F4i Model Sport Racing, and want to install the bell crank steering. Only it seems that noone has the appropriate bell cranks, has anyone installed bell cranks on their chasiss b4? If so, what did you use?

[Sebring]

Yeah. The red head engine is the one I have. I'm still using the stock flywheel, thou I;ve got a vented unit on backorder as we speak. I'm using HPI's purple heat sync engine mounts, and all fits perfectly. My friend is running the same engine in his otherwise stock rush, and he had to make some cuts to teh plastic brace, but with teh aluminum brace, which EVERY Rush owner should have (It's only 10 bucks, and VERY worth it), it fits perfectly. It's rotary carb, so no mods were needed there. The low end screw is on the right, so it's easy to get to from the back of the truck with a long flat head. The OS 12 I had in it was almost impossible to get to the low end needle 'cause of the gas tank.

As for bellcranks. I'd try either Losi XXX-T bellcranks or cranks off of the Duratrax Evader ST (Which is practically a XXX-T anyway). They sit on the chassis the same way as the Rush, with the servo sitting side-to-side instead of front-to-back. I'm going to try that as soon as I get paid.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Well actually, with the chassis that I got, the servo sits front to back...
Here's a pic....

http://members.rogers.com/kpalanski/images/chassis/chassis.jpg

[Nitrus rush]

Do you plan on using the upper deck, if not, f41 has a picture on his site of the nmt bellcrank mounted on the rush chassis. If you wanted to fit it under the upper deck, you would have to cut the bellcrank posts, if you can even do that. That is how my rush's bellcrank is setup and I used an old rc10gt steering kit that was at my lhs. I think I'm just going to print up a word document on how I fit the bellcrank. For now, look at my site, http://nitrusrush.tripod.com , for pics to get an idea.

[krisI.925]

How are all of you running the wires from the reciever battery to the reciever. Iv been having a lot of trouble with this. Right now i have the wire running underneath the engine and it works ok. But I would like a better way. Can some one tell me another way and a pic would help a lot. Thx.

[Nitrus rush]

I run mine on the aluminum rear brace, then to the receiver pack. Having them by the engine could result in melting and shorting of the wires. If you dont have the aluminum rear brace with the included wire clips to hold the wires to the rear brace, you can zip tie them to the plastic one.

[ssclone]

well i had teh rush out a few days in a row and it runs good..today i was probly hitting close to 32-33 mph .

i have a question....after i run it for a lil while and it stalls. then i try to start it up and it wont start. it only does this when its hot.(note: it is the stock 15fe). i have the HSN out 2 3/4 and im not to sure about the idle set screw but its out pretty far. can you guys tell me what in the same heavens in happening.plus evertime i hit the break it dies. and i have the carb open pretty far and the linkage hardly moves and it dies i have no clue what is going on.





aaron

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by ssclone
well i had teh rush out a few days in a row and it runs good..today i was probly hitting close to 32-33 mph .

i have a question....after i run it for a lil while and it stalls. then i try to start it up and it wont start. it only does this when its hot.(note: it is the stock 15fe). i have the HSN out 2 3/4 and im not to sure about the idle set screw but its out pretty far. can you guys tell me what in the same heavens in happening.plus evertime i hit the break it dies. and i have the carb open pretty far and the linkage hardly moves and it dies i have no clue what is going on.





aaron

Well....I'd hate to say it, but that is probably the signs of the end of the FE. It is the exact same thing that happened to my FE before it died. There is probably no compression either. I'd suggest sending it in and for about 100 bux, getting a .15ss, or get another option engine. I wouldn't waste my money on a piston and sleeve set.

[ssclone]

ok man thanks alot..is the FE worth porting out at all..i had planned on trying to port it out when the motor does finally go.


i think if and when it goes that im just going to get a trx 15 for it w/ a cvec pipe and be set.




aaron

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by ssclone
ok man thanks alot..is the FE worth porting out at all..i had planned on trying to port it out when the motor does finally go.


i think if and when it goes that im just going to get a trx 15 for it w/ a cvec pipe and be set.




aaron

Actually, you're probably only gonna get a couple more runs in before it finally doesnt even start anymore. I wouldn't bother to port the fe. Also, I would probably not get a trx 15, because of it's known problem of running extremely hot. But I am a firm believer in O.S. engines. Any of their engines are of great quality, and I would definalty recommend them.

[rcharry]

CAn you guys compete with the other buggies, like the GT and NT. If i get it, i plan on hoping it up. what do you think!

[ssclone]

i havnt raced a buggie at all, idk if it will hang w/ it. id say if you want a 2wd beginner stadium truck this is the one to get. now by hopping it up it will make it faster and you might then be able to hang w/ the buggies.




aaron

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by rcharry
CAn you guys compete with the other buggies, like the GT and NT. If i get it, i plan on hoping it up. what do you think!

If you mean a 1/8th scale buggy on an average sized track, I would doubt it. They have, for the most part, a higher top speed and superb handling. I guess If your stadium truck was finely tuned to track conditions and the driver was very good at handling it, you might be able to compete with a 1/8th buggy.

[rcharry]

oh, my bad i meant trucks not buggies....stupid me, stupid me!
So can a hopped up rush hang or even beat the AE GT and Losi NT?
thanks

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by rcharry
oh, my bad i meant trucks not buggies....stupid me, stupid me!
So can a hopped up rush hang or even beat the AE GT and Losi NT?
thanks

It can definatly beat a AE GT or Losi NT. There has been many stories of rush owners beating other stadium trucks, and even getting first place. At the hpi challenge, with my mostly stock rush when I was first starting out, I was beating Nitro Mt's. It was so cool how different tires and shock setup allowed me to handle better on the track and beat other trucks.

[Mr. Furious]

Hi All,
I'm thinking of getting a Nitro Rush. I was wondering if it's possible to adjust it to get some decent street performance out of it? Of course I'd get a set of street tires but my main concern would be the ability to adjust the suspension to make it handle on-road.

Thanks,
Furious

[RacingRush]

I love my rush!!!! I just got it goin again with nitrus rush's help. :)
I love the power of the O.S. CV.

I just figured out how good of a jumper it is. I built a huge jump in my backyard today.:D It is 1.5 feet high with a huge lip and a 12 foot gap. I got the rush to kinda do a tailwhip.

Now i have another thing to spend money on. Next I need to get the MT running. Oh well that can wait for another day i have the rush to play with. :)

Later

Jason

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by Mr. Furious
Hi All,
I'm thinking of getting a Nitro Rush. I was wondering if it's possible to adjust it to get some decent street performance out of it? Of course I'd get a set of street tires but my main concern would be the ability to adjust the suspension to make it handle on-road.

Thanks,
Furious

I run my .21 rush on pavement all the time and it handles pretty good except for high speed, cuz the front wheels are in the air.:D With suspension tuning and onroad tires (such as road hawgs), it should handle quite well.

[krisI.925]

Iv been having some gripes about my rush lately. It seems that a lot of the parts are wearing out and stuff. Like the wheels are getting to get pretty wobbly along with the A arms and stuff. And when i hit the brakes i can see the engine move a little bit with all the screws tightened of coarse. Any of you guys have this kinda stuff in your trucks?

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by krisI.925
Iv been having some gripes about my rush lately. It seems that a lot of the parts are wearing out and stuff. Like the wheels are getting to get pretty wobbly along with the A arms and stuff. And when i hit the brakes i can see the engine move a little bit with all the screws tightened of coarse. Any of you guys have this kinda stuff in your trucks?

The reason your wheels may be wobbling is because they might be loose, it happens to me quite often because my locknuts are really old. As for the rest of the parts, I found the stock parts that came with the rush were weak and brittle. I replaced them with HPI nylon parts, and for some reason were a lot better quality than the stock ones.

[krisI.925]

No i checked all the wheel bolts and all other fasteners. The real problem i think is that all the plastic parts are wearing out. Where did u get your Nylon parts from.

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by krisI.925
No i checked all the wheel bolts and all other fasteners. The real problem i think is that all the plastic parts are wearing out. Where did u get your Nylon parts from.

The plastic or nylon parts, are just the stock hpi replacements, but they seemed a lot stronger and longer lasting then the stock ones.

[killarush]

Hi guys,

I have returned to the Rcnitro forums under a new name as there were problems with my old username (rccarkilla). From now on I'll use my maxxtraxx username - Kilarush, just to let u know ;)

KrisI.925 - The HPI nylon parts tend to have quite a short life I believe, as I replaced 2 front a-arms about 1 gallon ago, and have already managed to 'oval - out' the mounting holes. This is probabl down to the soft compound of the plastic, but its a small price to pay when you have impact-resistant parts.

The engine movement may be down to the engine plate being loose. Check all the mounting screws around the plate, and I wouldnt be suprised if there is a screw missing. I doubt it has anything to do with the mounts themselves though.

=chris=

[ViperR]

I agree with killarush.
The softer-more-impact-resistant plastic of the HPI parts are part of the everyday life of a Rush (or other HPI kits). I haven't broken anything as of yet, but the holes do "keyhole" after about a gallon of nitro.
It's part of the hobby. You rebuild an engine (piston & sleeve) after about a gallon, anyway.
I'd rather replace plastic after a gallon than replace from impact that happens often with the harder plastics (like Traxxas,Assoc,etc.). They don't keyhole, but an impact will bust them. A-arms are always breaking with these. Haven't had an HPI arm break as of yet.
Cheers for HPI!

[krisI.925]

i havent broken any chassy parts yet either. Just things like turn buckles and spur gears and i think the stock gas tank. But do you guys know where i could get some of those aluminum bearing carriers. Iv see them before but i dont know where i can find them.

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by krisI.925
i havent broken any chassy parts yet either. Just things like turn buckles and spur gears and i think the stock gas tank. But do you guys know where i could get some of those aluminum bearing carriers. Iv see them before but i dont know where i can find them.

Hobbyetc, which sells GPM parts used to have them, but after reviewing the site, I don't see them anymore. However, I did find them on the HPI site and can be purchased at Buy HPI. Here (http://www.hpiracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=72040) and here. (http://www.hpiracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=72041)

[clodkiller]

My .15 fe is on its last leg, compresion is almost gone time to buy a new engine:D

What is a direct drop in right now im leanig to the .15ss any sugestions would be great. Thanks



PS...and under $150

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by clodkiller
My .15 fe is on its last leg, compresion is almost gone time to buy a new engine:D

What is a direct drop in right now im leanig to the .15ss any sugestions would be great. Thanks



PS...and under $150

I've heard great things about the .15ss and it is a direct bolt-in. Other engines I'd pick would be any O.S. .12 or .15 that would be in your money range.

[chevelledude33]

hi guys im having a big problem with my rush. for some strange reason my flywheel is stripping. where it gos onto the crankshaft. I ve gone through 4 flywheels. :confused:

[killarush]

Chevelledude -

First of all, what engine have you got? If you have another engine than the FE, the the crankshaft may have a slightly different length. If it is too long, the the pilot shaft will not tighten down enough to lock up against the flywheel - leaving the flywheel loose and prone to stripping.

If you still have the FE, then try thread-locking the pilot shaft to the crankshaft. If you dont do this, the pilot shaft is likely to unscrew and let the flywheel strip.

Also, It sounds as iff you are still using the standard cast flywheel. If you are, I'd strongly recommend upgrading to a HPI machined version (included on new kits now) , as it uses a collet to grab on instead of those 3 little 'notches' inside the cast version.

=chris=

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by killarush
Chevelledude -

First of all, what engine have you got? If you have another engine than the FE, the the crankshaft may have a slightly different length. If it is too long, the the pilot shaft will not tighten down enough to lock up against the flywheel - leaving the flywheel loose and prone to stripping.

If you still have the FE, then try thread-locking the pilot shaft to the crankshaft. If you dont do this, the pilot shaft is likely to unscrew and let the flywheel strip.

Also, It sounds as iff you are still using the standard cast flywheel. If you are, I'd strongly recommend upgrading to a HPI machined version (included on new kits now) , as it uses a collet to grab on instead of those 3 little 'notches' inside the cast version.

=chris=

Yea, your absolutely right. The stock cast flywheel is garbage, so upgrade to the HPI machined flywheel, which can be found here, (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM718&P=7) and HPI collet, which can be found here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM719&P=M) .

[Nitrus rush]

Killarush-- How is your rush runnin with that new high performance .12 you got for it? If I'm not mistaken, the heatsink head had either had a bluish green color to it.

[killarush]

Hi nitrus -

The Rush aint running too good at the moment I'm afraid. I havent run hardly any fuel through it at the moment (13 tanks) and due to the sensitive tuning characteristics of the STS MT.12 it is proving to be a real pain to tune right. Apparently a lot of other people have had the same problem, but it's just a matter of fine-tuning it until it runs nicely. I'm pretty sure I could do with a new glowplug too, lol :rolleyes:

Sadly though, the Rush is gonna have to be sold ( :eek: ). I've just bought a £800 motorbike off Ebay and need to sell the Rush to help fund it. It'll be well missed I'm sure...

=chris=

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by killarush
Hi nitrus -

The Rush aint running too good at the moment I'm afraid. I havent run hardly any fuel through it at the moment (13 tanks) and due to the sensitive tuning characteristics of the STS MT.12 it is proving to be a real pain to tune right. Apparently a lot of other people have had the same problem, but it's just a matter of fine-tuning it until it runs nicely. I'm pretty sure I could do with a new glowplug too, lol :rolleyes:

Sadly though, the Rush is gonna have to be sold ( :eek: ). I've just bought a £800 motorbike off Ebay and need to sell the Rush to help fund it. It'll be well missed I'm sure...

=chris=

Oh, that's a shame. You have a really nice truck to show off there. My hyper .21 has really loosened up after the 1st gallon, and it has some power to it. Hopefully before you sell your rush, you can get that engine tuned correctly and have a little fun with it.

[rcboy717]

Oh man nitrus, I think I would cry If I had to sell a nice ride like that. Dose this mean we'll never get to talk to you again on this forum? did you ever think of selling some of the part to us! :)

Also what kind of linkage are you useing to run that slide carb.
A good pic. would be good if you could. :rolleyes:

you will be missed here!
Thanks,

#TOM#

[rcboy717]

Hi, It's me again and I need a new steering servo. I still have the stock receiver so I think that would mean I need a Z connector. Got any ideas? I'm looking for the best I can do for 40$ or below. remember, any input is good input!;) :rolleyes:

Maybe a Hitec hs-625mg:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ87&P=M

Thanks,
#TOM#

[Nitrus rush]

rcboy717-I run a slide carb on my .21 and my linkage was just made out of a servo horn, wheel collars, linkage rod, and a spring and it works great. I've also heard the Ofna linkage works good too. Pics of my linkage can be found on my site.

For a 40 dollar servo, I would go with the Hitec 645mg metal gear, high torque servo. I have it on my rush and coupled with a custom bellcrank setup, it works great.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Hey Nitrus...

As you may or may not remember, I got F4i's Ti Chassis with the servo mounts. I grinded down the mounts so that I could use them along wiht the Graphite Upper deck, and now I'm looking for the RC10GT Steering Kit that you reccomended, but it seems that I can't find it anywhere!

Do you know where I could buy one? Or maybe you have an old kit lying around, I'd be glad to buy it from you!

Thanks,
Pa|2a|)oX

P.S. Im going to put in a Fantom .15 into my rush, I can't wait!

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by Pa|2a|)oX
Hey Nitrus...

As you may or may not remember, I got F4i's Ti Chassis with the servo mounts. I grinded down the mounts so that I could use them along wiht the Graphite Upper deck, and now I'm looking for the RC10GT Steering Kit that you reccomended, but it seems that I can't find it anywhere!

Do you know where I could buy one? Or maybe you have an old kit lying around, I'd be glad to buy it from you!

Thanks,
Pa|2a|)oX

P.S. Im going to put in a Fantom .15 into my rush, I can't wait!

Sorry, I don't think I can help as to what kind of kit I have. All I can say is, the one I got must have been sitting there for at least a couple of years. The paper packaging was so faded, you could barely see what it had printed on it. But what I can do, is go to my lhs again, and see if he has another similar kit that I might be able to sell to you. If you are still interested, email me here, at Jax100386@yahoo.com .

[killarush]

Hi guys,

I'll probably still be coming on here from time to time once the Rush goes, but not very often. I am getting out of RC's for the time being, but I could possibly get back into it in the summer but we'll have to see if my pocket will allow it. One thing is for sure though, I'll never have anything as tough and powerful and this truck again.

It's a real shame to see it go but I'm just gonna have to face it that i cant afford both a RC and a motorbike.

=chris=

[rcboy717]

Well, I went to my LHS today to see what thay had as far as servos and I ended up with Hitec's High torque HS-605BB servo for $40. (Probably a rip off but I like to support my LHS) That should do the job but it buzzes loudly with no input or at it's end points. Is this common for Higher torque servos?

Thanks!
#TOM#

[RacingRush]

rcboy- my 645mg is louder than other servos, at least when compared to the stock one.

I was out in the back yard today running the rush and I came to a stop in the grass. Then I punched it to go back to the dirt and the engine reved high but the truck didnt move. :(
I tore it apart to see what happened and also because it needed to be cleaned. It turns out that I stripped the internal diff gears.
Now I have a couple of questions,

Should i use lube in the the diff and on the transmission gears? What kind is good?
Is there any way to help prevent this from happening again?

The engine isnt too powerful so i dont think that i need the ball diff or anything like that.

Thanks for your help.

Jason

[rcboy717]

Thanks RacingRush but I swiched on my radio this morning and it was not as loud. Weird!

Sorry I can't help you with your Diff problem :confused: . I've never had problems with mine (knock on wood!).

[krisI.925]

racing rush you should always have some kind of greese in your tranny including the diff. I always use a lithium based grease for all my rc trucks. I to have destroyed diff and i replaced the gears and it hasnt been a problem since. The only problem i have with the drive train is the stub axles in the back wearing out.

[Nitrus rush]

What I did for my differential when it stripped, is I took out all the broken gear bits, and hit the final gear casing with a shot of Brake Kleen, or other r/c'ers use Nitro Cleaner. Then I put the new gears in and pumped it full of this white grease I had layin around and it works good. Other people recommend putting silicone diff grease which is pretty thick also. I would also recommend the bevel gears that come with the rs43 kit. They are supposedly a lot stronger. I also have the 645mg servo, and it is a louder than any standard servo I've used. Here's a pic of my little bevel gear.

[RacingRush]

Im going to go down to the lhs when my reciever pack comes in and get new bevel gears and a new dogbone.

I there any specific kind of grease that i should use?
It was lubed pretty well when I tore it apart but I think that I will give it extra grease this time around.

Hey nitrus- what is the p/n for the rs43 kit and will they fit?

Jason

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by RacingRush
Im going to go down to the lhs when my reciever pack comes in and get new bevel gears and a new dogbone.

I there any specific kind of grease that i should use?
It was lubed pretty well when I tore it apart but I think that I will give it extra grease this time around.

Hey nitrus- what is the p/n for the rs43 kit and will they fit?

Jason

I would recommend a thick grease, and killarush mentioned lithium based grease is also good. Silicon diff grease also works well.

RS43 gears can be found here. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTA4&P=7)

[Nitrogt10]

Originally posted by rcboy717
Well, I went to my LHS today to see what thay had as far as servos and I ended up with Hitec's High torque HS-605BB servo for $40. (Probably a rip off but I like to support my LHS) That should do the job but it buzzes loudly with no input or at it's end points. Is this common for Higher torque servos?

Thanks!
#TOM#

You should have got a GT
(can you guess who this is)

[LittoDeViL]

Wow took me literally forever to read this Rush forum... there must be a lot more Rush users there then anywhere else eh?.. Well here's a little something for you guys to enjoy for your eyes, a 3.1mm titanium alloy rush chassis.. mMm yummie.. :D

http://www.extremevelocity.net/f4iracing/f4i_hpi/images/rushchassis.jpg

[killarush]

urr, yes. It looks yummy, but the price certainly doesn't!

$80 is just too much IMO. If he'd lower the price a little then I would have considered buying one, but obviously theres no point now I'm selling up. :rolleyes:

[rcboy717]

Originally posted by Nitrogt10
You should have got a GT
(can you guess who this is)

Josh, you know My rush could school your gt any day. now take your little rc10 back to your own forum before we all come after you;) !

#TOM#

[Nitrogt10]

Hey Tom go to http://www.fototime.com[/URL] and upload you pics of your car

Go to http://www.fototime.com/%7B646FC43D-3EA6-4C83-B1E3-FD9BA9E5CB35%7D/picture.JPG
to see my gt (you wish your rush was half as good as my gt)

[Prometheus]

Wow, that Ti chassis would complete my hoped up rush. Can someone please PM me the link to where I can get it?
Oh yeah, hi everyone, I also have a rush. Pretty much all the hop ups I can have (cept for that awsome chassis, ahhh I want it). .12 ss in it. Ill post some pics sometime later when Im not so busy.

[chevelledude33]

i have a 15fe and i did upgrade to the aluminum one but some how the collet tore up the aluminum flywheel where collet goes in. when i put it on it just spins and doesnt crank over the engine.:confused:

[liquidforrest]

Hey guys, I just put up a new ALL HPI message board last night. Come check it out and join up.

http://www.pyropost.com/rs4rtr3/phpBB2

will be looking for some Mod's to help out

[Prometheus]

That looks nice. I just registered as Xaero. IMO, it would be nice if the Rush and NMT had their own section, and the Savage had its own, as they are different types of vehicles. And wow, finaly a forum with a NON-rc buy/sell/trade section. Anyway, great forum, hope to see alot of these other people on there too. If I can ever help out im any way, let me know.

[rcboy717]

I'll be needing a new glow plug soon and I'm not sure what to get like hot or cool? short or long? I still have the 15fe but with the 3-stage engine upgrade. Your most likely thinking it's a peice of poop but it really hauls. I can smoke my friends rc10! But what plug!

Thanks,
#TOM#

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by rcboy717
I'll be needing a new glow plug soon and I'm not sure what to get like hot or cool? short or long? I still have the 15fe but with the 3-stage engine upgrade. Your most likely thinking it's a peice of poop but it really hauls. I can smoke my friends rc10! But what plug!

Thanks,
#TOM#

When I had the .15 FE, I used an O.S. A3 glow plug and it worked great for me. An O.S. #8 plug would also work too, but A3's are cheaper.

[clodkiller]

will the tmaxx motor fit in a rush or is the 15ss beter because you can get the maxx motor for $109 at hobby people

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by clodkiller
will the tmaxx motor fit in a rush or is the 15ss beter because you can get the maxx motor for $109 at hobby people

I would say the .15ss is a better engine. I have seen Traxxas .15's reachin the high 300's in temperature, and have heard a lot of horror stories. I'm pretty sure HPI still has an exchange policy where you can give them your .15 Fe, and for about 99 dollars, they will send you a .15ss.

[rcboy717]

Originally posted by Nitrus rush
When I had the .15 FE, I used an O.S. A3 glow plug and it worked great for me. An O.S. #8 plug would also work too, but A3's are cheaper.

Thanks, I think I will go with tho O.S. A3, but what do you think about the Fox blaster plugs? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDTK5&P=7)

Also dose anyone have experisnce fitting pro-line bodys on the rush? how well dose it work and which ones work the best?

Thanks
#TOM#

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by rcboy717
Thanks, I think I will go with tho O.S. A3, but what do you think about the Fox blaster plugs? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDTK5&P=7)

Also dose anyone have experisnce fitting pro-line bodys on the rush? how well dose it work and which ones work the best?

Thanks
#TOM#

That Fox blaster plug looks like it will work fine, but I don't have personal experience with them. My next body will be a Proline and all you need to do to mount it, is mark the holes and drill them which is pretty simple. To me, it doesn't matter which one you pick, as long as you like the body styling of it.

[rcboy717]

Hey thanks for your help nitrus!
Now I'm starting to think I may go with the blaster plug, but I'm shure It dosen't even make a big difference so...

Who Cares!?
#TOM#

[rcboy717]

A direct fit for the rush or not?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMX36&P=7

Thanks
#TOM#

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by rcboy717
A direct fit for the rush or not?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMX36&P=7

Thanks
#TOM#

It would not be a direct fit, but it would only take a small amount of modifiction it looks like. First, you'd have to make a custom center link, then you might have to modify the bellcrank posts to fit under the upper deck. Then drill servo mount holes and you would probably need the graphite upper deck or a custom aluminum one because the plastic one would be in the way of everything. And there might be other slight adjustment to fit it.

[jasonthehunted]

how much of a difference do diffferent glow plugs make in engine performance? sorry about such a vague question but Ive been into nitro rc for a whole 3 days now.

[Anemic_SluG]

Originally posted by Nitrus rush
It would not be a direct fit, but it would only take a small amount of modifiction it looks like. First, you'd have to make a custom center link, then you might have to modify the bellcrank posts to fit under the upper deck. Then drill servo mount holes and you would probably need the graphite upper deck or a custom aluminum one because the plastic one would be in the way of everything. And there might be other slight adjustment to fit it.

That is the kit I used. First off I have the graphite upper deck which has to be cut back to allow the servo to run the rod that connects to the bellcrank. Secondly the picture shows an adjustable center link, not so i got a graphite solid one, Also I filed the original graphite upper deck supports down so the bellcranks would slide over them. Shimmed it all and now I have bellcranks. The only major problem is the servo is in at an angle instead of straight on. But I have em. If you want pics I might be able to post a few.

[RushMan86]

hey guys long time no see... but i got a question hopefully someone can help me... I am back working on my rush after i got the savage all done w/everything it needs to be unbreakable...HD dogbones...DONE! Lol ok now i am back working on my rush... my inspiration would be Nitrus Rush w/his .21 engine so i am taking my stock savage engine and installing it in there...w/everything else it needs. I have every hop-up for my rush avialable including my custom upper deck from Nitrus which i luv! Everything is aluminum...except rims...where can i buy aluminum rims for the rush. Price isn't to much of a problem because i have about 200total left over from this project i recently discovered. Any help would be awesome. Thanks!

[M16-A2]

www.radtechracing.com makes some decent aluminum rims :)

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/Thumbs/NMT_Stella05.jpg

[RushMan86]

yea but there only T-maxx rims.. will they fit on my rush? And if so how do i get front rims w/bearings?

[M16-A2]

Hmm... they used to have a specific setup for HPI trucks.
I bought a set of the purple Stellas for my NMT as you can see in the pic above.
It may be worth it to email them and see if they have any HPI wheels left! (tmaxx wheels won't fit)

[RushMan86]

ok i e-mailed them now

[jasonthehunted]

just got a Rush. first nitro, first off road rc ever actually. its a blast for bashing thats for sure, but I wanna race. I know this has had to have been covered already somewhere in these 17 pages of this forum but what are some must have up grades before I go racing. I intend to use the 15fe to start with, but want a tuned pipe. hear the associated pipe is a good one. do I need to change the manifold/header too??? will a tuned pipe make noticable difference in the FE?

also do losi shock springs work with hpi stock shocks?

the track Im gonna run at doesnt carry much of a selection of HPI parts. I am goin to the hobby shop I bought the Rush at this weekend before I go run at the track, so I want to pick up some "essential" hop ups before hand. tuned pipe, a few sets of springs and whatever I come up with. What do ya ll think? total rookie at nitro offroad, I used to race oval many years ago this is totally different. But equally fun.
thanks

[RushMan86]

hey man go with a better air filter two... a nice 2-stage will boost performace... On the FE i would go with an associated pipe they will make up for the crappy low end in the FE. And depends on the surface ur on but you might wanna go with a new set of rear rims. Bow Ties from www.pro-lineracing.com work well on almost any type of track except for paved surfaces. And if there are any jumps go with the heavy duty transmission brace. Either this or bring a hammer and spare spur gears. Have fun with the truck! We all do!

[RushMan86]

heres a pic of my truck....lets see if it works[IMG]Rush-GPM1[IMG]

[RushMan86]

damn how do i po
st pics?

[Nitrus rush]

Hey guys. Me and my friend set up a speed trap in the street today to see how fast my rush would go. My rush was goin between 47 and 50 mph, which is pretty good for a stadium truck. It didn't have a "speed setup", so it didn't go as fast it could have, but still pretty good. On the last run of doing about 50, I skidded out and crashed into a car tire, and it made my car spin like 5 times. I couldn't believe it, but absolutely nothing broke! All I did was bend a body clip. So all around, it was a good day of street running!

[RushMan86]

lol sounds like fun

[RushMan86]

ok i think i got the picture thing down now... heres my current rush...

[jasonthehunted]

what engine is that?

[RushMan86]

12R SS Racing engine. Don't BUY it! Unless its from me:-D I'll sell it to ya real cheap 140 new 100 from me with half gallon ran through it... It soooo hard to tune. And it looks different now. I got the cooling head custom polished by a friend. Every cooling fins side part is silver or natural aluminum color along with the top fins. Looks trick. Tell me what ya guys think of my rush.

[Nitrus rush]

*mistake*

[jasonthehunted]

looks good. looks like ytou got those aluminum a arms, how do you like those?

[RushMan86]

Actually there awesome. I do not have one single complaint about anything on my truck other than the engine. There GPM if you do not know already. But if you do now have the stainless steel hingepins, you should buy them right after you purchase the a-arms.

[jasonthehunted]

was looking thru ebay and found this

http://**************/ws/*******************************3128361649&category=19168

little much but cool looking


well I guess I cant post the link but do a "rush" search on ebay, you cant miss this thing.....buy it now of $399 :D

[jasonthehunted]

I was so pumped about driving my rush on a track...... it looked so much easier than it turned out to be. Rough day to say the least, stopped by Hobbytown first for some go fast goodies, got a associated tuned pipe, a header, some rear springs (purple) the fiber disc brake pad, 2 clutch bells (13 and a 15) and some more stuff that I cant remember, spent $110 so there better be more that I didnt list. Oh yeah, got a new air filter too. Any way got to the track, finally find the Channel 1 clip, put on the air filter ( didnt ad anything else yet) and took off. made a couple of not very good laps, and headed back to the pits for some adjusting. put on the hard rear shocks because I was understeering alot, that helped. made few more laps keeping off of the jumps for the most part becasue it was my first time on an offroad track and I needed to get used to the dirt. I hope the tuned pipe and header help becasue that 15fe doesnt have the guts for this stuff. (I expected that ;) ) I may go to the 13 tooth clutch bell for some more bottom end too. Im alot farther away from racing than I thought but I figure in a few weeks I ll get my driving skills and the truck itself up to snuff for some racing, Its probably not really that bad either, i was on the track at the same time as several 1/8 buggies and they were flyin man. I nose dived hard on a triple, bent the right turn buckle, broke the right A-arm, and the shock shaft, and then got run over by a buggy and lost my battery box. That was the end of the day, back to the safety of the house, and Im about to get my order together for some replacement parts, I love graphite I really do. :)

[clodkiller]

Do they sell clodbuster wheel adapters that fit the rush

Or do you think imex g hawgs would work good on all 4 corners

[RushMan86]

no they don't make adapters... not that i've ever heard of neways, and yea they will work good all round. But I think a set of masher 2ks would work better

[jasonthehunted]

does anyone-HPI or anybody- make replacement A arms that are stronger than the stock ones? besides the aluminums? and BTW Rushman.... how much did those alum's cost you????

[jasonthehunted]

another thing, who all on this forum actually races their Rush competively? just wondered if anybody did anything but just fun stuff bashing with theirs.

[RushMan86]

I race my rush. Does great... Little different set up than stock though. I use bellcrank set up that I borrowed from a RC10T to help in the cornering w/no upper deck and custom mounts for everything.

[clodkiller]

thunder tech makes clod wheel adapters for the stampede do you think tose would fit.

[jasonthehunted]

Originally posted by RushMan86
I race my rush. Does great... Little different set up than stock though. I use bellcrank set up that I borrowed from a RC10T to help in the cornering w/no upper deck and custom mounts for everything.

you dont run with an upperdeck at all?? guess I could look at the pic again couldnt I.
I got to get some serious track time in before I start racing, I work at UPS the same time the track is open during the week so I can only get up there on weekends. I want to change the steering in my rush already, seems sloppy but its impossible to easily get too with that plastic brace or whatever its called that comes stock. If it can be run with out that upper brace I ll take it off tonight when I start meesing with it,

I think I need to take the engine off to install the new fiber disc break and I m having trouble getting on of the screws out of the manifold so I can switch to the new header and tuned pipe I got.

[jasonthehunted]

Rushman, why did you go with the 12ss instead of the 15ss? Ive heard good things about the 15ss, what besides the difficulty tuning dont you like about the engine?

[jasonthehunted]

what happened?? I join the forum and every one sells their RUSH?????

[RushMan86]

I didn't go with the 15SS because I was lured in by the supposed 1hp... It will rev quite high in my old RTR3 but with a 14t cb it doesn't get the necarry RPMs for the claimed 1hp. And w/o the upper deck I wouldn't recommend w/o a nice chassis. I have a 5mm chassis which makes my truck alot stronger. I still use the rear brace fuel tank servo and everything in the same mounting positions except for the steering servo which I have set up bellcrank off of an RC10T. It works great.

[clodkiller]

what happen to this fourm evry 1 is gone i still want to know it clod wheel adapters for the stampede made by thunder tech will fit a rush????

Any reply would be great

[RushMan86]

like i said before guy...they won't work its different axle dimensions and its a 2wd instead of 4wd

[Nitrus rush]

Also, since the tires are so big, they would probably rub on the engine etc.... I think mashers would be the biggest tires I would stick with. Other than that, there should be no point to clod buster tires.

[jasonthehunted]

well I got my Rush 's front end put back together, added the associated tuned pipe and the dynamite hearder, added the performance airfilter, ( forget the name) also got some new tires proline stepins for the back and losi razors on the front, and a new body that I will probably paint up this weekend as soon as I figure what color scheme I want to use Its aProline crowd pleaser for a losixxxnt but Im sure I can get it workin on the Rush. Im on the way to the LHS to get some HPI wheels for the tires and then on to the track to see what I can do today. Hopefully the tires will help me hook up better than the stock tires did.

I ll get a pic up when I get it painted, if it turns out good that is.

[rcboy717]

Hey, let me know how well the proline body works.

Thanks,
#TOM#

[jasonthehunted]

rcboy, Ill post something as soon as i get it painted, I havent figures out how I want to paint it.

what other 90mm turnbuckles are available besides the stock and the titaniums? Ive bent 3 on the right side already, it seems that they are a bit long for their diameter and are bound to bend easily. its a pain in the butt. I guess i could quit hitting stuff but thats not gonna happen anytime soon :P

[Nitrus rush]

What I did before I got bellcrank steering, is I got 96mm Traxxas Tmaxx Titanium turnbuckles and cut them down with a dremel and they worked good.

Here is a new pic of my .21 rush.
http://www.******.net/media/Picture_784.jpg

[jasonthehunted]

do you have a pic of that bell crank steering you rigged up? Id like to try something like that, I know it will take some modifications but I feel that it may be worth it.

[Nitrus rush]

No sorry, no pics of that, but It wasn't hard do to.

[ssclone]

Originally posted by clodkiller
Do they sell clodbuster wheel adapters that fit the rush

Or do you think imex g hawgs would work good on all 4 corners


hey guys im back on here again. sorry i havent had much time to hit the boards.

i busted anotehr darn pullstart. so im building a starter box

now about eh ghawgs...i run them on all 4 corners and i love them. they are just aweosme. IMO.


aaron

[jasonthehunted]

OK in a few weeks Im gonna go to a new engine, I have the .15fe right now but for racing I m getting a 12 becasue 15's arent legal except for open class at my track. I dont want to buy a real expensive racing engine but I dont want to get dusted every weekend either. Ive heard nothing but good things about OS engines, but me having to be a little different than most was looking another direction. What about the fantoms? or the team orions? I know that they are fast engines but what about ease of tunabilty and dependabilty?

[ssclone]

yeah same here all ive heard was good stuff about OS motors.

i wanna be differnet as well so...

im going to see if my buddy still has his old trx 15 form his maxx...

if so im taing it and im going to repiston and sleeve it but im also going to port t out as well. hehe


aaron

[Nitrus rush]

I've heard that the Team Orion Wasp .12 engines are very fast. Actually, I don't think I've heard a bad thing as of yet. But price is also a factor with those engines. I think they go for around 160-190. I've heard various things about Fantom engines, but I'd give them a shot. O.S. is definately quality stuff. All the racers I knew, used an O.S. .12.

[Prometheus]

Will the new TRX 2.5 directly fit into the rush? Cause arent the cranks different?

[clodkiller]

what are the biggest,widest,tallest 2.2" tires avalable a link would be great






Frank :D

[jasonthehunted]

Originally posted by clodkiller
what are the biggest,widest,tallest 2.2" tires avalable a link would be great


someone mentioned Mashers a page or 2 ago you might oughtta check em out.


went to the track today.....never even tried to start up my Rush. I had gone to 2 hobby shops today, i switched to my old Futaba Mag Jr. radio but needed a new receiver and a steering servo. I bought Ti steering linkages and I bought some SS linkages to use as the camber linkage because the stock plastic ones kept popping off. Also got some engine mounts so I could change clutch bells. To make a long story shorter, I had to also change my antennae on the radio, of course the old one was stripped and was tough to get off, well i broke the wire tryin, took a look around ...realized that there was nothing within reach I could safely throw, and said " screw it " I started adding my parts since I was already there and that was that. Ill run it tomorrow, albeit not at the track since its mothers day and Im gonna have to hang out with the girlfriend and daughter all day. hoping the new Hi tec metal gear BB servo does the job in the front. I ruined the stock servo in a collision with a brick wall last weekend when I was getting a monster glitch at the track. All is good, I like the Mag Jr alot better than the radio that came with the Rush. The rush is comin around with the hopups.

so far Ive added:

new radio
receiver
servo
new air filter
really fast pink fuel line
titanium steering rods
Stainless Steel camber adj
Losi razor front tires
Proline step pins on the back
HPI 5 stars all around
HPI hard purple springs/back
Losi soft pink springs in the front
Associated torque tuned pipe
Dynamite recoil header
Stainless Steel hinge pins
purple ball caps all around
proline xxxnt crowdpleaser body (unmounted)

only thing else I plan on changing any time soon is the upper deck of the chassis, a 5-cell rechargable pack for reciever and probably a new engine when I can finally drive faster than the 15fe thats in there now. probably gonna just go with the OS .12cv-r with a slide carb and a starter box. Right now though, Im still trying to get used to friggin off roading so I cant even get around the track with out bumpin something. All this cool stuff hasnt really helped my driving but man it sure is fun messin with it isnt it???? I gotta learn how to land hehehehee.


:D

[jasonthehunted]

ok whats the scoop on the CVDs? whats so special about them, whats with the rebuilding of them? I threw a dogbone today, cant fiind it either. so I figured I d check into these. tell me. Im listening.

also....in a separate accident :P somehow i knocked off the brake adjustment screw (I dont know dont ask) are these pretty much generic parts or are they HPI Rush specific?

[jasonthehunted]

looks like I got this place to myself.

what kinda spur/cluth bell sizes ya ll running? Im running the stock setup and have a couple of extra clutchbells, but I was wondering what set ups if any are more popular?

[Anemic_SluG]

Well It is now time to leave this forum as I bid you all farewell. Ok for real now, just thought all you Rush owners might want to talk to thier non rush owning friends and check out my post in the BUY/Sell page. I have my Rush in there with all of it's hop ups. You can see an old picture of it in these forums, It has changed a lot and I have dialed it in at the track. I whish you all the best this truck has been great. But had to get rid of one of my gas trucks to support my racing habit. Good luck Jason! Hope the Rush works out for you on the track. I had fun beating a lot of people with mine!

[krisI.925]

stock spur, 16T pinion

[Anemic_SluG]

Originally posted by jasonthehunted
looks like I got this place to myself.

what kinda spur/cluth bell sizes ya ll running? Im running the stock setup and have a couple of extra clutchbells, but I was wondering what set ups if any are more popular?

When on the track unless you race on an outdoor 1/8 scale buggy track, I would use the stock spur (the only one available) and a 13 to 14 tooth clutch. Anythig higher will give you mad top end but most tracks I want a consistant pull through all the turns, to get out quickly. The race is won or lost in the turns and tight spots not the back stretch.

[jasonthehunted]

well I took the Rush to the track tonight and raced dirt oval a little bit. Actually I only raced one heat and broke my pull start before the second one. I had fun, all day. I didnt do that bad in the race I got 4th but I knwo I can do better. The rush handled alot different during the race than it did during practice. The track had dried alot and they didnt wet it again until after my heat. But when it was wet I was hell on wheels. I actually had to go to softer springers in the back for a time because i had too much steering. I had HPI purples but switched to LOSI orange with Losi pink in front. Would have switched back to the purples if i would havae know that they were goin to forget to wet the track. :confused: But hey i ll be ready for them next time. I bought a rebuilt 15ss today also for $75. new bearings,piston, sleeve, and shaft. Although I didnt have anytrouble hanging with with the 15fe today. the tuned pipe helped alot, I needed to go to a 14 or 15 tooth CB but didnt. My problem was mostly just me. I didnt need more speed I needed more practice :D . also got the CVDs. I bent one too. learned the hard way that when they tell you to use loctite, you better do it or its gonna cost you money. :eek: another lesson learned. I ll get the SS in it this weekend and I guess i llget a starter box too. I cant wait to race again!!!!!!

[jasonthehunted]

who uses a starter box with their Rush? I got the 15ss in, I put on the lightweight flywheel, but Im having trouble getting the starter box to work with the engine. doesnt seem to be even touching. I got the new motormounts for the non pull start and the flywheel for the non pull start but seems to be to far away. I dont have a clue as to what to do

[Projektz Bora]

Whats up everyone.. i just got a rush about a week ago.. i took it to my brother in laws house where there are a lot of construction going on (new houses) so i took it bashing.. and man... this truck