HPI Nitro Rush Forum

[Radio Acer]

Sorry for being such a nuisance. this is my first nitro vehicle and i still have the stock 15FE engine. So I really only know the basics of Nitro. I hope to learn more at the track and from this forum:p

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by Radio Acer
Sorry for being such a nuisance. this is my first nitro vehicle and i still have the stock 15FE engine. So I really only know the basics of Nitro. I hope to learn more at the track and from this forum:p

Yea, I know what you mean. Everyone has to start out somewhere.

[jasonthehunted]

I got so frustrated with the carb on my 15ss today that I took it out of the Rush and bought an OS 12 cv-r. I ll tell you how it goes when I install it, I m sure it will install just like the 15cv-r Guess Im about to learn all about a slide carb too.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

To make the FR 15 slide carb work with my Rush's linkage I had to flip it so that the fuel nipple was facing the gas tank instead of the other way around... I'll post a pic...

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/tn_100_0783.jpg

[Projektz Bora]

has anyone here ever tried raising the suspension and putting bigger wheels on their rush just to make it like a mini stampede or something?? ive raised the suspension.. but i havent gotten big wheels yet.. anyone ever tried that?:D

[Radio Acer]

Thanks everyone!! I looked at your pic Pal2al)ox and i noticed the slipper clutch was slammed down tight. Is that how its supposed to be :confused: 'cause mine is bearly over the end of the rod. am i melting the slipper clutch or is this another lesson in Nitro. Whatever:rolleyes:? I'll say it again "I just don't get it":)

[Radio Acer]

I've also been looking at the 15ss. which one is better... OS 15CV-R or the 15SS? Just wondering.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Depending on how you're gonna be driving your rush, you might wanna tighten or loosen the slipper to certain settings. I mean if you're doing onroad driving, mostly, like me, then you don't need the slipper clutch to be engaged that much, so you tighten it down. However, if you're gonna be doing alot of jumps and stuff like that you need it to be loosened. The whole thing about the slipper is so that when you jump, the spur gear doesn't strip, when the clutch bell starts pulling a couple more thousand rpm due to no load on the tires (the tires add rpm's as well...). If you're running onroad with the slipper loose, a small bump will make it engage, and in some cases it will always be working, which creates friction, which melts it. You gotta find a setting for it which will give you the best of both worlds. A slipper clutch is a beatiful thing to have on a truck if properly configured!

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by Radio Acer
I've also been looking at the 15ss. which one is better... OS 15CV-R or the 15SS? Just wondering.

I'd say the .15 cv-r probably has more power, but for the price and with HPI's engine exchange, you can't beat the price of the .15ss.

[jimbonj]

Originally posted by Nitrus rush
I'd say the .15 cv-r probably has more power, but for the price and with HPI's engine exchange, you can't beat the price of the .15ss.

If you're decided on a CVR, check this out:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LR0649&P=1

Cheaper than the HPI exchange.

HTH, Jim.

[jasonthehunted]

out of the 2, I think the OS would be best becasue of the simplicity of the OS,s carb. the 15ss isnt too beginner friendly

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by jimbonj
If you're decided on a CVR, check this out:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LR0649&P=1

Cheaper than the HPI exchange.

HTH, Jim.

Good point, but there must be a glitch in the pricing. Look at this, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ72&P=7 . The same engine, just with a rotary carb, is listed for $124.99.:confused:

[Radio Acer]

You are all confusing me:confused:Maybe I shoudn't have asked that question:rolleyes:I'll go with the CV-R. It'll take me awhile to save up my money though

[jasonthehunted]

Originally posted by jimbonj
If you're decided on a CVR, check this out:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LR0649&P=1

Cheaper than the HPI exchange.

HTH, Jim.

HOLY MOTHER OF JESUS!!!!!!Thats a great price...ya ll better jump on that before they figure it out. I just paid $129 for the same engine at my LHS yesterday.
I want to report a burglary. Ive been tampered with.

[Radio Acer]

It is a great price!!! I'll take advantage of it as soon as i can :D Too bad i got zip in the wallet :( Just ordered $60 worth from tower for me rush. Tell me later how it went with installing the slide carb in your rush

[jasonthehunted]

the saga continues.....I went to put the flywheel on and real;ized I bought the cvr(p) which has a different shaft on it. Took it back and grabbed the correct one but it has a rotary carb. Didmt realize it til I got home...doesnt matter to me. Im just ready to run the rush. been 3 weeks since I ran it.

[jasonthehunted]

The OS .12cvr is installed and I got 4 tanks through it already. This thing is great. So much easier to deal with than the 15ss. I cant wait to put another 2 easy tanks through iot before I start haulin the mail!!!!

[jasonthehunted]

now that I got my new engine running, I guess I just have to replace the entire truck. :( if its not one thing its another. Got the OS entirely broke in (its a screamer...I love those ;) ) but my tranny is messed up. Its internal, I can hear it. I took the tranny apart but didnt notice anything, I replaced the bearings in it too. No dice. Guess I ll tear it down again and see *** happened. This isnt a recent happening. The last time I drove the rush was with the 15fe...I crashed hard after my last qualifying heat, (rush + wall = :eek: ) I had forgotten about that, because I had bought the 15ss that day and was going to install it the next. During that crash I hit so hard that I bent on of my new MIP shiney cvd's. I didnt drive the rush but about 5 feet after the crash then I picked it up and scrambled to the pits to inspect and repair the damage. I thought it was just the bent cvd but looks like its worse.

engine revs, clutchbell spins, spur turns, the cvds spin, tires spin, but put it on the ground and it barely moves and you can hear the grinding. Ive even tightened the slipper all the way down, same thing.

somebody tell me this has happened to them and what they did to fix it. I dont want to go Associated.

[RushMan86]

Hey man sounds like you need some help. Its the diff. Take apart the tranni and take apart the diff assembly. It won't look like there is anything wrong but there is. If the gears don't have a sharp edge there no good. But if they are sharp just take the gears out install some grease and re-install them according to the directions. Hope this helps man and I hope you can get your rush runnin agian!

[jasonthehunted]

yeah thats what I suspected, after goin through it thats what is has to be, so I went to hobbytown this morning, and bought 2 sets of the replacement bevel diff gears and also a new middle gear too.

Sorry about the Associated remark. I was kidding, I wouldnt do that :D

[Radio Acer]

good! don't go associated! I had the same prob (almost) with my tamiya buggy. I actually wore out the pinion gear within a year and a half. it was metal too!! but if it isn't the differential or gears as RushMan suggested, look at the plastic case that holds the gears inside, it could have cracked causing the gears to not mesh properly. thats what happened with the buggy also. In the end that destroyed all the gears and i had to replace them all. what really happened was that the electric motor moved. Well I hope it's only the gears that are the prob in your truck!:D

[RushMan86]

Yea for better diff gears use the spyder gears out of the rtr3 gear box. those will last a lifetime.

[jasonthehunted]

I got it goin.....well I did have it goin.......:D hehehehe. I busted an a-arm. The neighbors wood fence jumped in front of me ;) 2nd time Ive broken that....first fence though. Totally creamed the body too. Hopefully thats all the damage though, Ive already replaced the A arm but I havent ran it yet becasue me and the woman went to see 2 fast 2 furious and then she dyed my hair like leopard skin but thats another story, I did hear a screeching gear noise right after impact adn I know the spur is ok.....Oh boy here we go again!!!! hehehehehehe it was fun for 3/4 a tank though. Didnt get a chance to really open it up though but Im goin to the track tomorrow and I will then.

[jasonthehunted]

wooo weeee. the track was fun today. ran the dirt oval of course with my east coast modified body on and some foam tires. It was fun, the cvr is quick. At one point it was uncontrollably quick, but thats becasue the header came loose, it was fun though sounded evil too. Ill mess with gearing some tomorrow, only used the 15 toothe today. I only had about a pint of fuel and I used it all up. My track doesnt carry the fuel I was using so I ll get a gallon of the trinity tomorrow and get back up there. Hopefully I ll be dialed in by Friday so I can race the dirt oval. That is if enough people are ther racing, I hear most of the poeple will be heading to Oklahoma for the nationals this weekend.

[Radio Acer]

That's great you got your truck runnin!! (with no probs is what i meant) I'll start racin my rush When I get back from czech republic. I replaced the steering rods and turnbuckles with titanium today. think one of the stock rods was bent. and guess what happened to one of the ball cups? it was totally shredded!! and I mean shredded!! I haven't even gotten a quart of gas through the truck yet!! well i can only say i'm happy i Replaced the rods (and ball cups):D

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Hey all,

Well the cold weld that was holding my pressure fitting on the fantom pipe came loose and fell off. After a visit to my local Canadian Tire I found exactly what I needed, J-B Weld. Great stuff! I took a few pics of the re-attached pressure fitting:

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/tn_100_0914.jpg
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/tn_100_0913.jpg

[jasonthehunted]

do you race your rush or just bash?

how does that aluminum rear brace work for you? I took the stock one out because I couldnt adjust the idle screw with it on there and I have the aluminum on order from tower.

what fuel tank is that?

I just ordered the graphite front and rear shock mounts and the rear brace today. I need more adjustability on the shocks for racing. I was using the purple firm springs in the back but switched to Losi reds today becasue I wasnt getting enough rear bite on the dirt oval with foam tires. Worked alot better when I did that too. I cant wait to get to the track again tomorrow

[Nitrus rush]

The HPI Rear brace works fine for me. It looks to me like he has the HPI Racer tank but mounted backwards.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Originally posted by jasonthehunted
do you race your rush or just bash?

how does that aluminum rear brace work for you? I took the stock one out because I couldnt adjust the idle screw with it on there and I have the aluminum on order from tower.

what fuel tank is that?


Hey jasonthehunted :)

I mostly bash, but if there was a place to race it in Toronto I'd go there the first chance I get. In Toronto we have lots of people with nitro cars, well relatively lots, if you know what I mean, and I guess that noone has had the guts to build a track. For now I just have fun with onroad/offroad bashing.

The Aluminum rear brace works great, It strengthens the entire upper assembly. The only thing I don't understand is why HPI made the little pegs that reach down and touch the upper deck seperate from the actual brace. It's annoying when you have to do a quick fix which involves taking off the upper deck, cuz those peices are pretty difficult to get in there:

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/fast_hpirush.htm

The guys above are in the United Kingdom and they make GPM like alloy stuff for the rush. As you can see they made a rear brace which is, imo, designed much better than the hpi one.

Anyways, that is an hpi racer tank, thanx nitrus. It's mounted backwards cuz I couldn't get the slide carb throttle linkage hooked up unless I turned the fuel tank around. I actually like it better like this anyways, the fuel lines are much easier to route to where I need them, and the fuel isn't heated up on the way to the engine by the engine head.

lol, that was a pretty long post...

[Pa|2a|)oX]

:mad: :mad: :mad:

I blew some diffs today when I was running my rush offroad. One good thing did come out of today tho... some good pics:

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/tn_100_1033.jpg
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/tn_100_1026.jpg http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/tn_100_1022.jpg http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/tn_100_1020.jpg http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/tn_100_1019.jpg http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/tn_100_1018.jpg http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/files/tn_100_1012.jpg

[Nitrus rush]

Nice rush, just one question. Why did you lift the body off of the truck so much. Anyway, nice front body mount!

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Hey Nitrus,
I lifted the body so high cuz I didn't want to butcher the body on the side there the pipe is mounted. lol I know it looks a little screwy, but as soon as I get mashers, it'll look better :)

[jasonthehunted]

fixed my diff in my rush and spent 3 days at the track this week. I keep spinning the flywheel. Ive gone threw 3 collets now. Also since the stock rear brace wouldnt work with my new engine, I ran without it until the aluminum got here. Well if anybody is thinking about running without a rear brace,......dont, well dont if you plan on hitting anything. Bent my chassis in the rear, I knew better, but oh well. I bought another chassis, I probably can bend the other one back though. I got the new rear brace also went ahead and bought the graphite front and rear shock mounts Ill be installing them this week. the Rush is FAST with the 12cvr, plenty fast for my oval track, and too fast for the offroad. Dont get to use all of its power on the offroad, but on the oval it is sweet, gets the power on the ground quick where I can use it, was just as fast as the 1/8 scale buggies in the straights, but couldnt hang with them on the turns... what do you expect they got 4wd???? ;) I still havent gotten the rush to handle like I want, but thats my fault, Im not too good at setting up offroad trucks yet. But Ill work it out, just go to keep getting that track time.

[Radio Acer]

I got the titanium turnbuckles and I'm goin' to get some tires when I find out what the locals use at the track. Haven't raced but I'll start soon as I can. Ain't much tracks around Vermont. Just 2. Well i think Jasonthehunted will answer this question. What is the next Hop-up that I should get since I will be racing my rush? (other than an engine and tuned pipe)

[jasonthehunted]

what do you have so far?
probably different sets of springs for front and rear. Might as well go ahead and get you a new set of a-arms, so you can make that repair when it happens. you can get an entire set of 4 (front and back) for cheap. Ive tore 2 front a arms off, its a very quick fix. also might want to change out the snap on ball ends for some that screw on. just look around at what other people are running and ask lots of questions to the older guys that are racing, the older guys like to help out more than the younger ones. They know that the better you drive the easier it is for them to race with you, they dont have to dodge your car everyturn when your upside down. :p your engine is only a very small part of goin fast, anyone can drive fast in a straight line, you pick up most of your speed around corners and not having to wait on a marshall when you wreck. Make sure you car can get around the track thats the main thing. Thats my main problem now, I spent so much timwe and effort on a good motor that my car is too fast for me to drive, I got to catch up.

[jasonthehunted]

http://www.texashoovesandhorns.com/images/rushedm.jpg

yeah thats my Rush for dirt oval with a CustomWorks east coast dirt modified body. what do ya ll think?

[Radio Acer]

Pretty cool rush. Didn't really expect that body:D Oh well looks cool. Well I only have the titanium turnbuckle set but i didn't want to buy anything else until I got a little advice. I was planning on getting the set of springs which I forgot to mention. Do you think a set of GPM aluminum a arms would do the job? I also plan on getting the ball differential because i will need to adjust the diff when I'll be racing oval and technical.

What do you all use for Radios? I gotta get an FM one

[RacingRush]

Radio Acer- I use the Airtronics MX-3. It works great and was only like $110 on Tower.

I finally started working on the Rush again. I blew the diff back in april and it took a while to get the parts in. Plus i've been occupied with my Honda 400EX, which has become my new hobby.

Im looking to convert the Rush for the sand dunes. Hopefully I'm going next season and want to run the rush down there. Do you guys have any suggestions for sand running? I already got new springs to increase the ground clearance. Should I add anything else to help with durability? I hope that with the increased clearance the sand will stay off of the chassis. Any other suggestions would be great.

Thanks for your help.

Jason

[Radio Acer]

Get new tires for the Sand it will definetely help. I don't really think you need that much strengthening for the chassis if you will run it in sand. But I could be wrong.I 've heard the aluminum rear brace does some good to prevent chassis flex in the rear. I found a place called ultimate hobbies and found out that they sell the MX-3 for only $90.00 CHEAP!!good thing i found that out:D It's only the radio and receiver though but I don't need servos anyway.

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by jasonthehunted
http://www.texashoovesandhorns.com/images/rushedm.jpg

yeah thats my Rush for dirt oval with a CustomWorks east coast dirt modified body. what do ya ll think?

Very unique look. Tell all of us how it works for you when you race oval.

[Radio Acer]

Hey Pal2al)ox,
Where did you buy the Gpm aluminum stuff for your rush I can't seem to find a hobby shop (online) that even carries GPM stuff.

This will most likely be my last post for a whole month. I'll be gone in Europe. (and trying to connect to the internet takes about an hour so I won't even try it over there:rolleyes:)

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Hey Acer,
I got my stuff locally, but I believe that www.hobbyetc.com carries alot of GPM stuff for the rush. Good prices too...

[ssclone]

sweet rush's dudes.

i finally got a pullstart for the rush last night. i havnt played w/ it much because of trying to buy and sell a home and then moving ah it was a mess.

i had it runnign before and it is humid out that it ran like poop. as soon as the next pullstart or the motor goes (the fe) im getting a new motor and a tuned pipe for it.



aaron

[ssclone]

well it is time for a new motor for me. i should be getting one in a month or so. i do have a question thought....

is this a pretty good motor for the price as well.. its an ofna hyper .21 w/ pull start (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD7&P=7)


i am on a budget too.

is this motor easy to tune?

i am alss looking at getting a new clutch bell and some street tires and paddle tired hehe. i might race the rush idk yet.



aaron

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by ssclone
well it is time for a new motor for me. i should be getting one in a month or so. i do have a question thought....

is this a pretty good motor for the price as well.. its an ofna hyper .21 w/ pull start (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD7&P=7)


i am on a budget too.

is this motor easy to tune?

i am alss looking at getting a new clutch bell and some street tires and paddle tired hehe. i might race the rush idk yet.



aaron

To fit a .21 engine, you'll need to make a conversion for it. Look on my site, http://nitrusrush.tripod.com . The link on how to put the .21 in your rush is here. (http://nitrusrush.tripod.com/the21rush/id3.html) Look around my site for pics and everything else you might need.

[ssclone]

hey man thanks alot.

as far as the motor goes is it a good one for the money?


aaron

[Nitrus rush]

At www.ultimatehobbies.com , you can get it for $109. Tower is a rip off on this engine. Anyway, this engine works awesome for me and I paid $130 for it.

[ssclone]

hey man thanks alot.


aaron

[Radio Acer]

I'm in the czech republic and the internet SUCKS. but you can't help it in europe. anyway Nitrus where did you learn about |Ultimate hobbies? and you're right tower hobbies is a rip off. From now on I'm buying stuff for $10 less :D I;m going to deck out $150.00 when i get back to vermont (3 weeks :rolleyes: ) I'll Post pictures as soon as I can

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by Radio Acer
I'm in the czech republic and the internet SUCKS. but you can't help it in europe. anyway Nitrus where did you learn about |Ultimate hobbies? and you're right tower hobbies is a rip off. From now on I'm buying stuff for $10 less :D I;m going to deck out $150.00 when i get back to vermont (3 weeks :rolleyes: ) I'll Post pictures as soon as I can

Way back when the HPI USA Forum was still up, many people bought engines and other stuff from ultimatehobbies.com and I have kept the link this whole time. They have a lot better prices than tower on many things.

[ViperR]

Hey all,
The current diff gears (HPI #A850) are terrible and are always stripping out. I guess they're made of pot-metal. What's the HPI part # for the solid metal diff gear kit? I believe it's on another HPI nitro, but can't seen to locate the part #.
Thanks!

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by ViperR
Hey all,
The current diff gears (HPI #A850) are terrible and are always stripping out. I guess they're made of pot-metal. What's the HPI part # for the solid metal diff gear kit? I believe it's on another HPI nitro, but can't seen to locate the part #.
Thanks!

Actually, I just ordered a spare set of those better bevel gears. The part number is 86014 and it can be found here. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTA4&P=7)

[ViperR]

That's them! :D Thanks!

[RC10tee3]

at how much you will be paying to keep replacing those bevel gears your better off buying the Ball Diff HPI made for the rush

[ViperR]

I'll have to look into the ball diff. I'll try the metal bevels (86014) 1st to see how they hold up compared to the stock pot-metal ones (A850).

[Nitrogt10]

I have a MX-3 radio system and i would like to get another Crystal Set for racing. I looked on tower(http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX0804**&P=7) and a Airtronics set cost 30 dollars and i was wondering if i could get a Futaba set (or any other Manufacturer) on a Airtronics radio and it still work right .:confused:

[rcboy717]

Nitrogt10, you should try posting that on the

[rcboy717]

Nitrogt10, you should try posting that on the RC Electronics forum (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=331)

Or better yet post it here: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=126787&highlight=Hi+Im+stupid

Hope that will get you an answer to your question.

#TOM#

[rcboy717]

oops:eek: :p :rolleyes:

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Well after a hard day of bashing with my rush, the day came to a sudden and abrupt end when my steering servo started to glitch like crazy. Well I'm in need of a new servo, so what I'll do is swithc the steering servo and let it serve as the throttle servo, and buy myself a good steering servo, the question is can you guys reccomend any good servo for like 40 USD or about 60 CAD?

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by Pa|2a|)oX
Well after a hard day of bashing with my rush, the day came to a sudden and abrupt end when my steering servo started to glitch like crazy. Well I'm in need of a new servo, so what I'll do is swithc the steering servo and let it serve as the throttle servo, and buy myself a good steering servo, the question is can you guys reccomend any good servo for like 40 USD or about 60 CAD?

On Towerhobbies, you can get a 645mg Hitec, High Torque, Metal Geared servo for $39.99. I payed $50 for it and I am very happy with it. Works really good to steer my .21 beast. Click here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ90&P=7) for a link to Towerhobbies.com.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Thanks Nitrus,
I followed your advice and got the 645MG, I'm going to install it tonight and try it up in cottage country tommorow :D

[Radio Acer]

I'd also like to get a stronger steering servo. the original one hasn't died yet, but i don't really want to take it to racing. Any coreless or digital servo out there with at least 90 oz/in. torque and a .15 second transit for less than 100 bucks. i looked at a few airtronics servos but they seemed kinda expensive but if i have to i'll buy them.
thanks

[rcboy717]

Radio Acer, You shouldn't need all the torque or any kind of digital servo. It's just a 1/10th 2wd truck. Maybe you should try that servo that nitrus was talking about.

It's your call.
#TOM#

[Nitrus rush]

Like I said, I have the 645mg and it works awesome with my bellcrank setup.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

The 645MG kicks ass!

I was at the cottage for the past week and was testing the heck out of my car. It handles very well even in the layers and layers of foilage that have fallen on the land. I got the servo for about 70 CAD and have got to say it works really great and I would reccomend it to anyone. It's incredibly strong.

[monyet fangkeh]

hi...im thinking getting the rush rtr. i want to know if you all happy with your rush? i want to know the performance, durability, and the overall aspect about the car. is it a worth buy stadium truck? is the engine in the rtr good enough? if i get the rush...what would be the first hop up that i really need to buy? can the rush handle big jump? im not going to racing, only bashing with my friend. should i go with the rush rtr or NMT rtr? can i put MT tires for the rush? i also heard that HPI product is tend to have a bit of flex in the A arm. is that happen in your rush? if i want to change the body...can i change another body with other brand ( proline? ). can i change the shock? i dont really like the plastic one. i want aluminium one...what brand can i use for it?

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Okay, that's a lot of questions but here goes:

I want to know if you all happy with your rush?
Personally I am very happy with my rush. I have upgraded it heavily since the time I have gotten it, and am overall increasingly happy with its performance day after day.

I want to know the performance, durability, and the overall aspect about the car.
Performance wise, the rush can (well tuned) go about 33-36 mph out of the box with no mods. It has great handling around corners, and if you are planning on going offroad there is a great third shock mount that can allow your truck to be raised about 2 inches off the ground. Durability wise, the truck does need some help in a few areas. One of these being the old chassis that came with the rush. I am not sure how the new updated chassis is at handling jumps and such, but from expirience the old chassis flexed alot, and eventually bent. Overall, the car can be hopped up to compete very well with comparable rustlers and rc10gts.

Is it a worth buy stadium truck?
For a first truck, I would definetly reccomend the Rush. It is not that complicated of a truck compared to 4wd rc's and can be mastered easily while providing you with options to get hop ups and such. You can just bash with it, or you can decide to race with it, but at least you know both options are always open to you.

Is the engine in the rtr good enough?
The .15FE that comes with the stock rush is a good engine to start out with. It provides enough power to get you through most terrains but lacks certain qualities that are found in better engines (duh). I belive it is rated somewhere around .46 hp (correct me if im wrong). And the darn little things will never give up on you, they'll push your car until its last breath.

If i get the rush...what would be the first hop up that i really need to buy?
When you get the rush you should look into a nicer more rigid chassis (www.f4iracing.com). You should also look into captured ball ends for the turnbuckles, and ofcourse Titanium turnbuckles (offered by HPI). Later on there are a decent amount of aftermarket goods available.

Can the rush handle big jump?
The rush can handles jumps, but be aware that it wont be able to handle it forever with that sometimes flimsy aluminium chassis.

Should i go with the rush rtr or NMT rtr?
That all depends. The rush will go a bit faster, but the nmt will outhandle the rush. The rush will be allowed to race in more classes, as the nmt will not be allowed because of the whole 4wd thing. Also, there are alot more aftermarket parts available for the NMT, so you have a wider selection. But for a starter truck, I'd go with the rush, due to its overall simplicity, and ease of use.

Can i put MT tires for the rush?
Yes you can. You can put almost any tires on the rush, at some point with the aid of hex adapters.

I also heard that HPI product is tend to have a bit of flex in the A arm. is that happen in your rush?
The A arms that come stock with the rush are remarkably rigid peices of plastic, they are nicely manufactured, and shouldn't break to easily, unless you're doing something nuts. The only time I have broken one is when my truck hit a tree with one a arm at about 50 mph, I wouldn't have expected the a arm to survive through that anyways.

If i want to change the body...can i change another body with other brand ( proline? ).
With some modifications (to fit the pipe in) you can make most stadium/offroad/nmt bodies to fit the rush.

Can i change the shock? i dont really like the plastic one. i want aluminium one...what brand can i use for it?
You can change shocks with most any brand out there as long as the measurements are within norm.

Whoa, well I hope that helps.
I'm sure that if you get the rush you wont be dissapointed.

[Radio Acer]

I am definetiley happy with my rush. I've got a track in my back yard where I thrash it all the time. never broke anything and i have had some nasty crashes!!!! All in all the rush is a great, durable truck. but you might want the titanium turnbuckles. Pal2al)ox pretty much covered everything. hope you have fun with your new rush!!!

[rcboy717]

Nice post Pal2al)oX!!

yes, get a rush:D

#TOM#

[Radio Acer]

Rcboy
about the servo question that i asked. I race my rush so i wanted a worthy servo. i guess i'll go with the 645mg since you all are happy with it

I'm trying to learn how to post pics just a test:

PICT0477.JPG

[Radio Acer]

Another test:

Rush.jpg

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Hey RadioAcer,
I'm sure that if you get the 645MG it will be totally worth it. You'll love racing with it, because it powers your truck around everything, I got it last week, and went offroad like craaazzy, the 645 mg handled my car very well, and was no comparison to the old stock wervo i had.

[rcboy717]

Radio Acer, good luck with the Pic posting. I always end up giving up after my 2nd or 3rd try!:D

[Radio Acer]

The 645mg it is then!:D

(i guess i won't post them pics)

[tl_ke_racer]

my rush is gettin here tomorrow, .12cv-x, im puttin a maximum mt body on it, .12 vc-x should be enough power right?

[NitroRushed]

What exactly is this "3 stage engine upgrade" i keep hearing about?

[Nitrus rush]

tl_ke_racer- A three stage upgrade from HPI is an upgrade of the .15 FE Engine. From what I can remember, it gives you an ABC Piston/sleeve set, a upgraded heat sink head, and new head screws. Maybe somethin else, but I forget. It makes the FE a little better, but IMO, it's not worth it. I'd rather spend the extra money and get a new, high quality engine.

NitroRushed- I had the .12 cv-x, and it has enough power, but I like my .21 better. It's a good beginner engine, and people actually use the .12 cv-x for off-road tracks.

[tl_ke_racer]

man got my car today, that .12 cv-x that came with it i cant get it started or tuned, cuz the guy closed all teh valves, i checked teh os website only says how to set teh high speed needle but not the low
i got it started one for a second then it sputtered a little and died cant figure it out,im ready just to start savin and buy a new .15ss motor.

[Nitrus rush]

The low end, for all I can remember, was set around flush. Too start out, maybe even a turn out from flush. Try that and it should start. The high end should be set around 2 turns out from closed.

[tl_ke_racer]

what does flush mean? i dunno how to set it flush, sorry im new to this stuff.

[Nitrus rush]

The low end needle should be set so it is flush with the housing that its in, meaning it would be flat against the low end needle housing. Once it is set "flush", I would turn it counter-clockwise about a turn, just to get it started up.

[tl_ke_racer]

i gotcah flat with the housing, an a complete revolution out from their.

[tl_ke_racer]

okay set it flush then went counter clock wise about a turn and now its stickin a little bit pas the housing that should be right eh?>

[Nitrus rush]

Yea, if you turned the needle out, it will stick out a little bit. That is just to get it started and running though. Once it is started, you might have to tune it though.

[tl_ke_racer]

well i got it all set let yuh know if it works for me tomorrow, or if i dismount the motor and crush it! lol, im gonan wanna lean the needles out abi t after its started right?

[Nitrus rush]

Once it is warmed up good, then you can lean the needles out. Don't crush it!!!! Give it to me, lol.

[tl_ke_racer]

i dunno, sometimes when i get mad i cant control myself, but the scariest thing is sometimes i like it lol, for osme of u peopel who dont watch movies its from the hulk.

[rcboy717]

You also get a better carb With the 3- stage upgrade. (I'f you still wanter to know.:) )

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by rcboy717
You also get a better carb With the 3- stage upgrade. (I'f you still wanter to know.:) )

Oh yea, I forgot. I knew I missed somethin. The HPI Upgrade 5.5mm carb isn't designed very well because the throttle stop screw prohibits the use of a zip tie to hold on the air filter in a lot of cases. People that used Motorsavers couldn't fit one on.:confused:

[Pa|2a|)oX]

I had the 5.5mm carb on my .15 Nitro Star Standard... That stupid screw made me get a whole new airfilter, and tiny little zip ties. I finally got around the problem and bought a new engine ;)

[ViperR]

I had the same problem when I installed the HPI 15SS w/ 5.5 carb and the Moter Saver. What you do is set your carb first for proper opening (you just have to do this once) and then slide the zip with the help of a little grease and it will slide in no prob. That needle is not one that is constantly being adjusted. One guy used some thin wire wrapped around a few times. No probs with his either.

[rcboy717]

Good Ideas ViperR. Thanks!

#TOM#

[xtreamrush]

Whats up fellow rush racers. Well I have a Rush but it has a problem. I have the 5.5mm carb,Dynamite Header,CVEC tunable pipe on the .15FE. Well when there is about 1/4 tank of fuel left, the engine will die and is nearly impossible to restart. I run it as rich as i can with out killing it but it will still get over 270 degrees. I took out the primer so there are no air leaks. Is it possible that the piston/sleeve is wore out or could it be that it gets to hot? What Head will fit the .15FE for better cooling. Help! I cant sleep knowing i have this problem! :confused:

[ViperR]

Hey Extremerush,
Your piston/sleeve is toast by trying to over-power it with the 5.5 carb. When you get to 1/4 tank, there isn't enough pressure (compresion from the worn piston/sleeve) from the pipe to push the needed fuel for the larger carb.
Been there-done that. You can rebuild the FE, but I sent my engine to HPI for the 15SS exchange program and got a new SS w/mounts & flywheel for $99. Best move to make . It's has alot more torque & rpm and it's ABC. Got lot's of gallons from it and going strong.
Chat with you all in 2 weeks. Off to Hawaii......Aloha!

[RC10tee3]

any body here havee a problem with bending there chassis if you do how did you fix it or did you just by another

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by RC10tee3
any body here havee a problem with bending there chassis if you do how did you fix it or did you just by another

Yep, I bent 2 of them and I made my own. You can see pics of it on my site, http://nitrusrush.tripod.com. If you have any questions about it, e-mail me at Jax100386@yahoo.com.

[RC10tee3]

thats cool nitrus and i just sent mine out to hpi for a new one for free it only cost me like 4 bucks to ship and they shipping back

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by RC10tee3
thats cool nitrus and i just sent mine out to hpi for a new one for free it only cost me like 4 bucks to ship and they shipping back

Yea, I bent one of the updated ones, and the original.

[xtreamrush]

I never had a problem with the chassie. I have bent it before but that was because the rear brace was not bolted on after a rebuild. Buy the metal rear brace. Its alot stiffer than the stock, plus it looks sweet on the rush and it holds the reciver power wire out of the way by clips on the brace.

[Radio Acer]

hey all rushers. I bashing my truck around my track when I met the boards at probably about 10mph when a ball cup popped off. And these were the "heavy duty ballcups". So i went out, drove again and met the boards a second time. (my track isn't to wide)the same ball cup pops off. So i replaced it with the standard ball cup and nothings been happening. I'm going to go buy screw on ball cups if i have to. lol i don't want to but what'll i do :rolleyes:

[Nitrogt10]

Hey Tom (rcboy717) i found a way to post pics. Go to http://www.picturetrail.com/
and upload your pics. then right click on the pic when you have uploaded it and push Veiw Image. Then copy the address at the top and put it in the IMG thing on the form when you are replying.

Heres one of the pics you sent me.
http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL197/1344899/2557471/31297116.jpg

[Nitrogt10]

theres a new R/C forum. ITs cool but we need more people. http://danrc10man.conforums.com/index.cgi

[Radio Acer]

How many of you guys race your rush? Cause I'm just about to start. Only wondering.

[Radio Acer]

Hey all! I need to get a tuned pipe and header but I don't know which ones to get. Or which ones will fit on the 15 FE engine and the Hpi ones are kinda expensive.

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by Radio Acer
Hey all! I need to get a tuned pipe and header but I don't know which ones to get. Or which ones will fit on the 15 FE engine and the Hpi ones are kinda expensive.

I saw this Dynamite inline exhaust system and it looks really good for the price of a nice pipe, manifold, and it's all held together with springs. Click here (http://dynamiterc.com/Products/Detail.aspx?ProductID=DYN6609) for the link to what I'm talking about.

[xtreamrush]

I have the CVEC tuneable pipe with the Dynamite Header.[URL=http://hometown.aol.com/flippit1303/myhomepage/photo.html]:D

[Radio Acer]

Thanks all but in the end I went with the HPI one cause I couldn't find where to buy those. The locall hobby shop ain't to big. You could call it a "traxxas-proline shop" from what they carry. I've also added these:
MIP CVD's
Fiber brake disk
Screw on ball cups (You can't race without those,I found out the hard way)
Gpm rear bulkheads Aluminum
Gpm rear a arms aluminum

[xtreamrush]

Yea i also bought the screw on ball cups. I found out the hard way too.
Well i need help in finding an engine for my rush. Their is no price limit so just tell me the best engines out their that would work with the rush the best.:confused:

[Radio Acer]

depends on what you're track operator will let you race with. My suggestion: An O.S. .12 CV-RX. they're made for racing. And if the operator allows .15 size engines get an O.S. .15 CV-RX. Tower hobbies sells them for good prices. and if you are going to get the non-pullstart version get dynamites torque start starter box. You can use it on any nitro vehicle and it'll last you a lifetime. Hope that helps!

[Radio Acer]

I think I did a pretty dumb thing yesterday. I put the linkage leading to the rotary carb in to the bottom hole. I've heard the truck goes faster because the carbeurato opens all the way. Well the truck didn't even start. Yes the igniter was charged that night. But anyway: how far should the ball cup be from the servo when using the bottom hole. I have the 15FE engine still in it. I will be eternally grateful for any help!!!

[Nitrus rush]

I just took some new video clips August 14th of my rush. You'll see some speed and a bunch of wheelies. The hyper .21 that's in my rush has really loosened up around 2 gallons of fuel and it flies. The server the videos are on is a little slow, so it might take a little while to download. All feedback is welcome!

http://www.******.net/media/21_rush_august_14th_2003.avi

http://www.******.net/media/21_rush_august_14th_2003_2.avi

[Radio Acer]

Nitrus. whats the top speed of your rush?
And got my engine back up and running.

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by Radio Acer
Nitrus. whats the top speed of your rush?
And got my engine back up and running.

If you watched the videos, take a guess, lol. I haven't gotten it speed checked, but I'd guess around 50 mph? That's only with a 15t CB, so it can go even faster.

[Radio Acer]

What do you all use on your pressure fittings? JB weld? And if you do are you supposed to let it dry before you thread in the pressure fitting? I jus got a tuned pipe and don't know what to do with the pressure fitting

[thetimboroni]

Hey folks,
I've been running an electric Duratrax Evader for a year, and I'm about ready to move on to nitro. I've looked at many things, and I think with my budget, I like the HPI Rush the most. I'm wanting to know what the flaws in the car are, and if it's worth it. Any help moving into this whole "nitro scene" would be appreciated.
THANKS
TIM

[Radio Acer]

For your first nitro car I would go with the Rush. The 15FE engine is extremely easy to tune and the darn little thing won't stop runnin'. (And yes the Rush is My first Nitro car). I was able to keep up with GT's and XNT's and my only hop-ups were a titanium turnbuckle set. One flaw in the car is the stock turnbuckles. they are extremely weak and you should get the titanium ones. Another flaw is the the stock suspension setup. Get either hard springs(blue) or super hard springs(purple) and you also might want to put 30wt shock oil in the rear. Get a Rush and it will be worth it. It is a great basher but can also be made a great racetruck.

*Andy*

[ZeroMax]

talking of starting i've just ordered my rush yestaday! so can anybody tell me what i need to start my RTR rush, i know its RTR but do i still need to glue the tires? charge some batteries or buy a glow plug to start it? please help.

[RC10tee3]

yes u will need a glow igniter a fuel bottle and 12 aa batts four for the car and 8 for the radio u also need airfilter oil and fuel and yes its a good ideaa to glue the tires or ull be chaseing them down the street

[ZeroMax]

i've started and done everything right, and now its time for the hop-ups! so people can anybody suggest any starter's hop-ups?

[rcboy717]

ok ZeroMax, I'd say go for some Titanium turnbuckles.

Come on guys lets get this forum going again!

[rcboy717]

Ok ZeroMax, I'd say go for some Titanium turnbuckles.

Come on guys lets get this forum going again!

#TOM#

[rcboy717]

Sorry!

#TOM#

[xtreamrush]

get the rear aluminum brace,Woven Graphit shock towers and upper deck, 5.5 mm carb or buy the .15SS engine, Aluminum shock bodys and some stiffer springs. Basicly all the hop up parts fro hpi. Also invest in some Aluminum Suspension arms from GPM. The stock ars are way to vulnerable to damage! the front is the most vulnerable to damage.
Need Any thing else?:D

[Radio Acer]

I was going to add better air filter(BIGGER) the stock one you have to clean every tank or two. Speaking of air filters will the Dynamite turbo flow fit the 15FE? Oh and trying to race a Nitro Rush is a horror just to let you all know.

[xtreamrush]

how is the Nitro Rush a horror to race :mad: I have come in 1st place 7 races in a row thanks to this truck. I couldnt even get 3rd with a rc10gt. You just have to know how to set up the truck for the best results for that track. Now on the filter the elbow will NOT fit the carb. I used a small pice of tubing that fit the carb and then put the elbow on. Any thing else?

[ZeroMax]

well i got the aluminum suspension arms, but theres one promblem - my truck is broken

it starts perfectly but doesn't move all it does is move 1cm and revs louder than a ducati 998 (which is very dam loud) can someone tell me what is wrong with my truck?

[Pa|2a|)oX]

I just had the exact same problem!

It's either your slipper clutch assmbly, i.e. your pin which holds the slipper togther fell out. Or your flywheel is too loose, take the engine off, as well as the clutch bell and tighten it. I had both these problems, but now the truck runs beatifully...

[Radio Acer]

I also have the same problem.

My slipper melted during a race so I just got the hard anodized one. now i still have a prob. the side of the spur is bubbing against the clutch bell so much my engine died bacause of it. So all I have to do istake of the clutch bell and tighten the nut on the shaft.

Oh and about the racing horror thing. I have entered four races so far and every time the truck broke and I couldn't even start for the main. But once I get this prob solved I think I can easily win(that I can agree with you xtreamrush). I'm always winning the heats and... BOOM something happens and my race is over.

Oh and my setup is perfect.

[ssclone]

well guys im back on here, i hate to admit it but i kind of forgot about the rc car boards (all of them. i.e. traxxas, nitrorc). well i almost sold the rush too.:( but i am keeping it now. i was going to either use it to fund my chevelle or buy an E. but i rather keep it and then get a job and use my job to fund it.



well just wanted to stop by and say HI again.:D



aaron

[Nitrus rush]

Racing my rush at the 2001 HPI Challenge was a lot of fun. All the guys at the track helped me out, and it was good because it was just when I was starting out. Once I got the right setup, the rush was bein very competitive. Then another time I practiced with my rush with the .21 and that was a blast. As for stuff breaking, the only thing that happened to me was my ball cups popped off, but RPM ball cups fixed the problem.

[xtreamrush]

For the guys haveing a non moving rush, Make sure you look inside the transmission. If you hear a clicking noise thats more than likely taht one of the gears striped. The idler gear loves to strip out on you. specialy after a large jump. I have been looking for a metal idler gear but with no luck. Even though the gear is only $3. After a while it will get ya.

[ssclone]

my rush dont move either......



its not a tranny problem though... even better... my motors shot.

i was going to go w/ that ofna bb and stuff but it was going to cost close to 200.00 and i was like well i need that money for my car so i didnt get it.


aaron

[Radio Acer]

All you have to do to get your Rush to move is take of the clutch bell and tighten the pilot shaft(put threadlock on it because HPI didn't) And I forgot to add the stock slipper clutch is junk.If something goes wrong with my truck now I don't know what cuz I'm hoping to just finish a race. And if I finish I basically win! :rolleyes:

[xtreamrush]

I guess im the only one with tranny problems. I have gone through 4 idler gears in about 2 months. Of cource this wouldnt happen if i didnt go racing every weekend and drive as hard as i do. But one question i have is how many slipper pads have you guys gone through in the time you have had your truck?

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by xtreamrush
I guess im the only one with tranny problems. I have gone through 4 idler gears in about 2 months. Of cource this wouldnt happen if i didnt go racing every weekend and drive as hard as i do. But one question i have is how many slipper pads have you guys gone through in the time you have had your truck?

I really don't go through any, because I have my slipper locked in place for my .21.

[xtreamrush]

I have my slipper locked to. I belive that's the cause of this problem. When the truck lands off a jump, there is no way for the gears to spin freely enough to not stirp. There for the idler is the weakest link in the hole assembly. Just to much strain on one gear at that moment.

This sound like a possibility?:confused:

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by xtreamrush
I have my slipper locked to. I belive that's the cause of this problem. When the truck lands off a jump, there is no way for the gears to spin freely enough to not stirp. There for the idler is the weakest link in the hole assembly. Just to much strain on one gear at that moment.

This sound like a possibility?:confused:

Sounds quite possible to me. If you are constantly landing off of big jumps, I would back out the slipper nut a little bit. You might not strip as many middle gears that way. Just for me, I don't do any insane jumping, so I have my slipper locked in.

[Radio Acer]

:mad:
I think my 15FE is blown. I don't even have a gallon through it. it starts up fine and the moment I give it step on the gas for more than 3 seconds it dies and i have checked everything that could cause this. It's done this ever since i ran it too lean for 5 min. the temps were above 320 degrees F. So what do I need to fit a OS 15cv in my truck. (New Flywheel, mounts, etc.) and what shaft fits the Rush. I think its a pilot shaft but i don't know
Thanx!!!

[ZeroMax]

somebody help me! i tried dis-assmbling the engine and -

my pullstart got pulled to the max and broke

i took my engine out but the screws somhow got really badly damaged while i was taking it apart - do you know if hpi sells extra engine plate screws?

P.S if i have to replace engine for rush what is the fastest most efficent and best one to get?

[ssclone]

radio acer.. your motor might be shot. if you ran it to lean than you might of fried your crank bearing.


zero maxer.. i would just go to the local hardware store and find some screws that are about that size.. its ok if there longer you can just cuz them down to size.




aaron

[Radio Acer]

Forget it. My 15 cv-x is on its way!! I do have to say that the 15fe carberator is junk. I never found an ideal setting. I might finally be able to run a good run finally.

Zero-max. if and when you decide to replace the engine get the 15cv-x. i've been amazed at how fast the local Losi's are with it. I convinced its a quality engine.

[ZeroMax]

well seeming if i can fix my car i might not buy engine but theres one problem - the screws are stuck to the engine plate, they are so worn out i can't screw them out so bascally if i don't get them out i'm gonna have to get a 15cv-x or one of those quick navirossi's but can anybody think of a cheaper option? under $120

[ViperR]

HPI has an engine exchange program. They will take any 15FE no matter what condition and for $99, exchange it for their 15SS. They also include engine mounts and an aluminum light-weight flywheel.
The 15SS is an ABC w/larger carb and it's very torquey. Lots of speed, too especially when you add a header, tuned pipe & MS airfilter.

[Radio Acer]

i'd go with ViperR.
The 15cv-x is only $90 on tower but it works out along the line of $140 when you add the flywheel, mounts and etc.

[Nitrus rush]

Here are some new custom rush parts I made.
http://www.******.net/media/upper_deck_and_rear_brace.jpg

[ssclone]

dude those are awesome.. how ya make them? damn i needa get a job soon so i can get my ofna .21.

aaron

[ZeroMax]

ViperR: thats in america, where i live u can buy a OS max 15cv-s for less than $99 so i'd rather get the OS.

but if i can i want to save money and fix my old engine but i really have a big problem! now even if i fixed it wouldn;t it be difficult just to get the settings again? and the 'fixing it together part' that would be difficult for me. . . iam really confused what i should do

[ViperR]

Hey ZeroMax,
If you want to keep the engine, but can't get the screws out, then use a "screw extractor". It looks like a tap, but with spyrals. You drill an 1/8" deep hole in the screw heads, twist the exractor in and reverse the action and the damaged screw comes out. I've used these many times on R/C, auto & home applications no matter how bad the screw head is or if it's locked-tighted or rusted in place. Works perfect.

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by ssclone
dude those are awesome.. how ya make them? damn i needa get a job soon so i can get my ofna .21.

aaron

Thanx a lot! I made them with a jig saw, table clamps, sanding files, drill press, and a dremel for polishing.

[rush-aholic]

if not, how hard would it be???

[rush-aholic]

by the way my rush is still completely stock so far

[ssclone]

if its a short crank go for it. is do-able.

i was going to do it but i realized that the 2.5 is a pain..so im going for the ofna .21



aaron

[Radio Acer]

Yippeee!!!!!!! Rush+15cv-x=xtreme fun!!

i took it to the track yesterday and let her loose. I finally finished a race (4th place out of like 10). I gatta become a better driver too. But the engine puled a wheelie down the straightaway. i totally creamed the body too. the whole rear end was hanging on half an inch of the body. it was fun anyway!

[toolcity-racer]

here is the list of changes and yes i have run it once last week before my qualifiers but did not race it yet .seemed to handle a lot better having lowered the overall stance of the truck.

racing clutch
hot bodies shocks
titanium turnbuckles
(hpi) cvd rear drive axles
75 cc racing gas tank
carbon fiber upper deck
carbon fiber front ,rear towers
y-harness charging switch wires
5 cell recharging pack
non-pull exhaust header and tuned pipe to match
hpi optional ball diff rear end
non-pull heat sink motor mounts
durartax rear plate heat sink
powerline head
so .15 cv motor(not too much motor for less wheel spin as track)
rpm receiver box with fm receiver of course
locked the servo saver with a screw (it always pops out with medium hits)
and last -hitec digital steering servo.

[toolcity-racer]

another

[RC10tee3]

thats one badass rush toolcity-racer
hopefully mine will look like that soon

[Photoguy]

Hello all,
I've been reading many of the threads in the 'Nitro Rush' forum. I have two Nitro Rushes. One is dedicated to "on-road" and the other for "off-road". Each one is modified for its intended use. I see that many people are experiencing "spur gear stripping". I think I can lend some information to a corrective procedure to eliminate the "problem". First of all, if you are stripping gears with the "stock" plastic spur gear, getting a steel spur gear WILL NOT correct the problem The steel gear will also strip. The gear stripping is caused from incorrect gear lash or mesh. There are several reasons for this: the gear lash was incorrectly set, the chassis is bending, the engine is moving in its mounts, the clutch bearing is wobbling or worn. Each one or a combination of these maladies will cause accelerated gear wear. Chassis bending: The older chassis has been replaced with a thicker counterpart. If you send the old chassis back to HPI, they will replace it with the newer thicker chassis, FREE of charge, no questions asked. They will even pay for return postage. I suggest that you do this. In addition, replace the rear plastic chassis brace with the aluminum upgrade. Now the chassis is as strong as it can get with factory parts. This should be sufficient for all your needs. Lets move on to the clutch. If the clutch bearing wobbles, the gear lash will change constantly, not good. Here is a pretty much "bullet proof" fix for the clutch. Remove the engine from the chassis. Then remove the "stock" clutch bell, bearing, and flywheel from the engine and throw them away. The stock flywheel and bell are cast and are real "junk". The "stock" pilot needle bearing has so much "play" in it that it acts like it is worn even when it's new. In addition, it requires constant cleaning and lubrication..."junk". Now for the "upgrade". Purchase the HPI machined aluminum flywheel, the inexpensive one, and the collet and spacer kit. Get the racing clutch and a new bell in what ever ratio you want. I suggest a 15 tooth. Now for the bearing. Kyosho makes a three piece clutch bearing kit that consists of one flanged bearing and two unflanged bearings, all are 5X8mm. This is the kit you want. In addition, make sure you get the 'aluminum motor mounts', they're only a couple of dollars. Now the assembly. Slide the two spacers and the collet on the crankshaft. Next, the flywheel. Put a few drops of blue LockTite (DO NOT USE RED) in the crank threads and install the clutch nut. Install the clutch using the middle holes, cutting the excess clutch shoe, the instructions show how to do this. Instead of using the garter spring that comes with the clutch, replace it with a neoprene O-ring. The O-ring works fine. I've done testing with the O-ring and it performs without issue. It is still working fine after a gallon of fuel. It fits lower in the groove than the spring and allows a longer life to the clutch. The spring rides high in the groove and begins to scrape on the inside of the bell after little wear to the shoes. This can cause slipping of the clutch. Place the bearings in the bell with the flanged bearing on the inside. Slide the bell on the pilot shaft (nut). Check to see if the pilot shaft is flush with the bell gear. If it extends beyond, place a 5mm (hole) washer on the shaft so it is even (flush) with the gear. Install another washer on the shaft that has a hole the same size as the retaining screw. Install an allen head retaining screw that you have placed one drop of the "blue" on the threads. The engine and clutch are finished. Install the aluminum motor mounts on the engine and reinstall the engine into the chassis. Now the gear lash adjustment. This takes some extra care to get it right. You can use some paper between the teeth to set the proper clearance. The teeth should be as close as possible without bottoming out. Check in several places around the spur. I set my gear lash with a 10X magnifier. Tighten the motor mount screws. Recheck the the mesh. Retighten again. Now remove one mount screw. Put a drop of "blue" on it and reinstall. Do this in turn with all the mount screws, one at a time. Good news... YOU'RE FINISHED!!! I did this installation two years ago and have not had any clutch issues or stripped spur gears. This installation is where you should spend the money, not on the anodized "bling". Well, that's it for now. I'll tell how to "beef up" the transmission and install a trick setup on the turnbuckles among other things if anyone is interested.

[ssclone]

hey man thats an awesome rush ya got man..


photoguy... thanks for the advice.. i wasnt one with the problem but i will kepp it in mind. i am intested in a write up on beefing up the tranny.



aaron

[RC10tee3]

i think this thread is dead

[Dirk Jan]

Hi everyone,

I'm Dirk Jan and I live in the Netherlands. I drive a Nitro Rush too, here's a picture of it:

http://members.lycos.nl/modelbouwupload2/afb870.JPG

with te body:

http://members.lycos.nl/modelbouwupload2/afb873.JPG

These are the upgrades I made to my Rush:

Picco P15 pullstart
ball diff
aluminium rear brace
graphite radio tray
15 t clutchbell
HPI Chevy Silverado body
titanuim turnbuckles
Picco servosaver
Team magic outlaw pipe
blue springs rear
other manifold (form Protech, onknown brand in America)

I love the car, it's really fast and does wheelies on command. It's a great basher, but needs some modifications to handle well (like an other engine and turnbuckles)

[Radio Acer]

nice rush's. i've been thinking about an upper graphite deck. does it help with anything at all other than weight? i like the way the stock deck covers the receiver(i race) and wondering if you could mount it on the bottm of the deck or something. thanks all

[RC10tee3]

hey it looks like u can ive never noticed that thanks man now i know how im gonna do mine when i get it and has any one seen the new rush EVO it looks badass and t hey actually made a diff color chasssis its black now and the tranny redesigned and a new enigine and motor mount

[Radio Acer]

RC10tee3,

Where did you see this "EVO Rush"?

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by Radio Acer
RC10tee3,

Where did you see this "EVO Rush"?

You can find out about it HERE. (http://www.hpieurope.com/kits/main.php?lang=en&partNo=562)

[RC10tee3]

more pics and info here

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=143626

[Pa|2a|)oX]

I don't understand why HPI is dishing out all these cars like this. I didn't even think that the Rush was popular enough to release an updated version. imho, I would've rather seen hpi let out a fully hopped up rush. We'll see how successfull this one is, maybe it'll spark some aftermarket parts to come out other than the ones that are available now.

That would be nice.

[rcboy717]

I wish there was something I could do to keep this thread alive.

Anyone got some pics. or something?

come on y'all. Jump in!
#TOM#

[Pa|2a|)oX]

I got a story that happened to me...

T-Maxx Vs. Rush...
I was out one day bashing when some guy came outside who I've never seen before packing a 6 Lb aluminium T-Maxx. Needless to say we started bashing together and inadvertantly began having a death match between our cars. :rolleyes: I was outhandling him and was faster but he could run me over easily if he caught up with his huge tires and 4wd. Then out of nowhere he ends up down one part of the street and I'm at the other, we hit wot and start what turns out to be a game of chicken (who'll bail out first). I knew that if I hit him I would be totalled, but then again it would be a good excuse to get some new parts for my rush lol. So in a split second I made the decision not to bail out first. ...................BOOM.......... my pipe, a-arm, and rollbar go flying.. along wiht some other minor parts, sparks flying as his bodyless t-maxx does a 4 foot backflip off my rush's front end and scrapes to a stop 3 meteres later. I sure am glad I had a titanium chassis for that little occasion, because I'm sure that I would be replacing the chassis if I still had the stock one. Parts damaged was about 90$ USD worth, including an almost complete rebuild of the front end.

I was a lil pissed at first, since his car had some scartches on it and thats it. But later on the score was settled as his car was running towards him and started to glitch going WOT into his ankle. CRACK! He went to the hospital with a broken ankle, the R/C gods were with me :) ..

That's my story, but out of that I'm getting some Titanium Turnbuckles, new tires and rims, servo and some other stuff I've been wanting to get for a while, good thing I work!

[Radio Acer]

sounds like you really trashed your rush!! i would never dare do something like that with mine. I'm hoping to get a ton of parts over the holidays and it seems like i'm finally going to get a computer radio for my racing. :rolleyes:

i'll post some pictures soon.

P.S. and lets get this thread going again!!!!!!!

[WutaRush2]

Ive got a rush but the only upgrades are O.S. CV-RX .12 Futaba Metal gear servo and graphite deck but soon to be better!!!!!!

[rcboy717]

How's that o.s. working for you?

#TOM#

[WutaRush2]

The o.s. is a very nice engine on the rush wheelies on command also its faster than my friends gt i love that engine very easy to tune and durable!!!!!:D

[Radio Acer]

i've got a .15 cv-x and i've got the same good things to say about it. i haven't totally leaned it out and it still did a wheelie. extremely easy to tune too. great engine.

[hpi781]

eric smells like tuna

[ritchies rc10gt]

does anybody know how to get the new chassis brace?i checked HPIs site but they dont even mention anything about it.i have the original rush with the "updated"chassis that still bends.HPI said when the brace came out they would give it to rush owners for free.id like to get it so i can put my rush back together and sell it.

[ssclone]

hey HPI.... i sugest that you dont come in here and start raising hell... you will def regret what you say... since you are a new member you should read the rules and guidlines.



aaron

[hpi781]

Originally posted by ssclone
hey HPI.... i sugest that you dont come in here and start raising hell... you will def regret what you say... since you are a new member you should read the rules and guidlines.



aaron sorry wont happen again.

[hpi781]

:)

[ssclone]

Originally posted by Radio Acer
i've got a .15 cv-x and i've got the same good things to say about it. i haven't totally leaned it out and it still did a wheelie. extremely easy to tune too. great engine.


sorry.. well to me it sounded like an insult.. but whatever.



aaron

[Prometheus]

Originally posted by hpi781
eric smells like tuna

mmmm....tuna....
(:rolleyes: )

[ssclone]

well i havnt posted on here about my car for a while..


its still sitting waiting on a new motor...


i am buying my frineds N Rusty from him that actually runs.. so i might try to put that motor in the Rush to clear things up on if a trx motor can fit in the Rush.


ill let ya know how things go.



aaron

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Tehehehehee...
Finally got all my hop-ups to recover from my little demolition dirby with a maxx. New stuff includes Fiber Disk Break, Titanium turnbuckles, Evader front shocks, GPM rear shocks, homemade front bumper LED system =).. Have a look! Tell me what you think.

[RC10tee3]

looks good and i like the bumber with the LED's

[Radio Acer]

Pa|2a|)oX,

surely looks killer!

do u race it?

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Thanx!
I'm starting to race it yes. Unfortunately I am only able to do so during the Summer Months, cuzs the track I usually go to is like 4 hours away in another city. However a new indoor track is opening up so I'm hoping to start racing there! I can't wait.

[Tabushi]

Hi,

Im about to go into RC Nitro Offroad 1/10th (i run onroad 200mm for 3 years now) ... and on my rc airplane club we are about to build an offroad truck in order to make some 1/10th offroad category for "Club Racing" ...

Now, im between the Team Associated Nitro RC10GT Plus RTR or the HPI Nitro Rush EVO RTR ... can anyone give me pros and cons of each one ... i had 2 nitro MT's and i loved them, but heard bad comments over the rush ...

thanks in advance.

PAT

[Pa|2a|)oX]

No offense to the rush, I love it to death, but it is not race ready out of the box. You will need to put a significant amount of money and time aside to make it raceable. But when you do you will have the benefits of great stabilty and ride as well as a nicely adjustable ride with the optional turnbuckles.
On the other hand the rc10gt is a race ready stadium truck which comes right away with lots of the things you'd expect in a racing truck that the rush doesn't come with. It is also a very studry and well built truck, where as the rush has chassis issues. I'm not sure if HPI has solved these problems with the EVO, but I am talking from the perspective of the original rush which I've put lots of work and money into to make race worthy. I can just about match or overtake highly modded rc10s now, and whoop the stocks, but in the begining you're hindered with a crappy engine and not enough adjustability.
Thats my 2 cents

[Radio Acer]

the rush evo has a much better engine that the original rush (i've heard). about the chassis problems; i got my Rush in March and i haven't bent the chassis yet, so i think that the problem is solved. but thats just my 2 cents. And as Pa|2a|)oX said, you will have to spend a lot of money on it to make it beat a GT. The rush also flies perfactly and i love it handling characteristics. But i have never driven a GT so i can't compare them too much. :rolleyes:

It depends on how much money you will want to spend.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

I just found out that one of my axles is bent out of shape. So when I started to run my car after all these hop-ups, my day quickly came to an end. I have to make my way to my lhs and get some. But otherwise the truck is looking nice.
Here's a pic...

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=3526

[rcboy717]

Lookin' good pal2al)oX!

What shocks are those?

#TOM#

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Originally posted by rcboy717
Lookin' good pal2al)oX!

What shocks are those?

#TOM#

Hey Thanx!
The rear shocks are GPM and the fronts are fitted from the Nitro Evader. I have to get two ball bearings with the right size and drill holes through em to make the shocks sit one something where they can pivot. right now they dont have to much move, kind of weird design the evader shocks have, I'll figure something out.

Anyways, I got some axles, for 8.50$ Canadian Tire money lol.
Gonna put it together tonight and hopefulyl run it on the weekend.

[WutaRush2]

does anyone know where i can get some good hop ups like aluminum ETC...

[Radio Acer]

for aluminum a-arms and suspension mounts (bulkheads) try www.hobbyetc.com. Otherwise i have been getting my parts from Tower Hobbies.

[clodkiller]

HEY IM Frank and im now back from my long break from my rush (last reply was some were in page 15-19) well im back now and i was wondering is these are good items to invest in
Hotbodies threaded shocks
Graphhite uper deck
New era front and rear aluminium towers
TiTanium tunbuckles
Aluminium Brace
Racing clutch


So far all i have is 110 oz ball bering metal servo
MS air filter
AE tuned pipe
HPI header
and the stiffest maxx springs you can buy : )

[clodkiller]

Hey its Frank again

I was wondering today i totaly fried my clutch some how a small peble weged into the bell and pressed the shoe into the wall.
Well long story short its was flaming hot and smoking like crazy i was looking on tower hobbies for replacmet part and up grades i found everything but the screw that goes into the pilot shaft mine is now seized in any help would be great



PS what happen to the form
maybe the new rush evo will bring new rush entusiest :(

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by clodkiller
Hey its Frank again

I was wondering today i totaly fried my clutch some how a small peble weged into the bell and pressed the shoe into the wall.
Well long story short its was flaming hot and smoking like crazy i was looking on tower hobbies for replacmet part and up grades i found everything but the screw that goes into the pilot shaft mine is now seized in any help would be great



PS what happen to the form
maybe the new rush evo will bring new rush entusiest :(

Set screw? A 3mm Hpi screw fits in the pilot shaft to hold your clutch bell on.

[clodkiller]

thx for the input i have not been able to get to my dad's house to pick up my manual to see the screw size

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by clodkiller
thx for the input i have not been able to get to my dad's house to pick up my manual to see the screw size

That's what I'm tryin to say though, lol. It's not a set screw, just a philips head HPI 3mm Screw

[Prometheus]

Hey whats a good shock oil/spring combo for off roading on a rush? I was thinking like Hard in the back and medium in the front? :confused:

Also, I was digging through my parts box and I found alot of old stock rush parts as well as a graphite upper deck, but no mounting things. If anyone wants this stuff Ill trade ya for something. :)

[Radio Acer]

I use super hard springs (purple) in the back along with 30weight oil. In the front i use the stock (black) springs with 25weight oil (associated). I use this setup for racing. It gives it a low stance but enough damping to prevent bottoming out on the bigger jumps.

[Tabushi]

Someone around here have the Nitro Rush EVO ?

thanks !

[RushMan86]

I used super hard springs in the back with 40wt oil, and super soft springs(yellow) up front with 35wt oil. Worked pretty good for me. http://www.msnusers.com/_Secure/0QwDOAusTcaQH1FYhKUtPIfhAWmXXHqLxfbP5BpwS2iTLadMpL NoqRPawifmi!glkmxpTBut7wlBkRK024O9mEazt8mdxM4uP3vq TeDkYbp0/rushgpm.JPG?dc=4675428816580457034

[WutaRush2]

does any company make a metal spur gaer for my rush im tired of spending money on my plastic ones...:mad:

[Radio Acer]

no one makes a steel spur gear that will fit the Rush (no company that I know of atleast) this is a way to make one http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

and if you're having problems with the wear of your spur gear then you should insert a peice of paper between the spur and clutch bell and then adjust the engine mounts so that the only way you can then remove the paper is by turning the gears. now you have a perfect gear mesh and your spur won't wear as quickly. i have run only about half a gallon of fuel through my rush and i used this method and there is almost no noticable wear on the spur.

[WutaRush2]

HUH........ i dont see anything on the hpi site :confused:

[Radio Acer]

oh sorry,
I guess that didn't work :rolleyes:
Go to the HPI forums, get into '1/10 scale truck FAQ' and then go to 'Engines and speed' and then the fourth thread down is a how-to on making a steel spur.
Hope that helps

[Nitrus rush]

Originally posted by Radio Acer
oh sorry,
I guess that didn't work :rolleyes:
Go to the HPI forums, get into '1/10 scale truck FAQ' and then go to 'Engines and speed' and then the fourth thread down is a how-to on making a steel spur.
Hope that helps

That was the mod for the NMT, not for the rush. Besides, what are you doing that you keep stipping spur gears? I have a .21 stomping on my spur and trans and they hold up fine. You can have a couple of problems, 1)The clutch bell and the spur gear and spaced too far apart, 2)Your chassis is bent causing the stock mounted FE (If you have that engine) not to mesh correctly. I would check to see if the chassis is bent and if it is, get a new fresh chassis and buy the $4 set of adjustable HPI Mounts. It will save you a lot of heart-ache. Also, for your chassis options. I custom hand-craft aluminum chassis for a lot of r/c vehicles. Check out my site, http://nitrusrush.tripod.com if you keep bending stock HPI Chassis. I've sold many and have been using my chassis and my custom upper deck on my .21 for awhile now and they hold up great.

[Photoguy]

Originally posted by WutaRush2
does any company make a metal spur gaer for my rush im tired of spending money on my plastic ones...:mad:

I did a whole "fix" on the "stripped spur gear" issue a few "pages" back. Follow my instructions and you shouldn't have anymore stripped spur gear problems. One thing for sure...if you are stripping the plastic spur gear, a metal spur gear WILL NOT prevent the stripping. You will also strip the metal spur gear. It is not the gear material, it is the setup. BTW, I've done this "fix" on both my Nitro Rushes and have never stripped a spur gear.

[Radio Acer]

I now have two Nitro Rushes for my racing.
The second one has:
graphite upper deck and shock towers
aluminum rear brace and front and rear a-arms
15t clutch bell
hot bodies aluminum shocks (rear)
MIP 360 header and pipe kit
HPI 12R SS racing engine
RC Scewz screw set

any other suggestions for hop-ups?

[Photoguy]

Originally posted by Radio Acer
I now have two Nitro Rushes for my racing.
The second one has:
graphite upper deck and shock towers
aluminum rear brace and front and rear a-arms
15t clutch bell
hot bodies aluminum shocks (rear)
MIP 360 header and pipe kit
HPI 12R SS racing engine
RC Scewz screw set

any other suggestions for hop-ups?

The only things that have made your Rush faster than a stock Rush are the engine, pipe and the 15 tooth clutch bell. Although the aluminum chassis brace will offer more reliability, all the rest of the items are pretty much "Bling, Bling". An anodized "boost bottle" will put you over the top in "blingability".

[Radio Acer]

I'm not that interested in speed. I'm interested in what will help me win races. And the graphite parts definitely help in the 'flex' category, not the "bling" part. The stock plastic parts have way to much flex for racing. I lost a drive shaft once because the rear a-arms flexed so much.

[rcboy717]

^^ That's so true Radio Acer. I have developed a lot of slop in my front suspention do to the holes in the plastic parts being worn-out into more oval shaped holes. I don't really want to upgrade to aluminum "bling" parts mainly because of cost but also for the weight.

#TOM#

[Radio Acer]

Anyone know of any proline bodies fitting on the Rush with almost no alterations (or very little at that)?

[WutaRush2]

the crowd plezer fits nicely just drill your own holes. hope this helps:)

[chevelledude33]

ive got a problem with my rush. Im putting my old mach 15 into my rush and the clutch nut or whatever holds the flywheel on went thread all the way down. :confused: do i have to trim the crankshaft the same length as the stock 15fe?:confused:

[mrpj1972]

ive got a problem with my rush. Im putting my old mach 15 into my rush and the clutch nut or whatever holds the flywheel on went thread all the way down. do i have to trim the crankshaft the same length as the stock 15fe?

yes. make sure you thread a nut down on the shaft before cutting it, so that after cutting you can un screw the nut and that will clean up the threads for ya.

[EJS]

I just bought a rush and the stock exhaust is already messed up. the silicon 90degree tube that connects the header and pipe is melting. What would be the best way to fix this? this is the first car ive owned and I am new to the hobby. Do i need to buy a new system? or jsut a header to hook up to the stock pipe so i wont have a silicon tube that can melt. THanks for any information.

[mrpj1972]

well if your elbow connector melted, then i would suggest replacing it with another one until you learn/get better at tuning. there is only one reason that thing melted, OUT OF TUNE!! dude you need to richen that tall needle on the carb. in other words, unscrew the needle. i really hope that is the .15fe. cause that is a fairly inexpensive engine to fix/replace. you might want to take it to a lhs and have them give you the low down on tuning an enginge and what your engine should be running at. good luck and dont be afraid to ask any questions!!

[chevelledude33]

Does anyone have any measurements to cut my crank or do i just wing it lol.:D

[mrpj1972]

well when you thread the clutch nut on look to see how far it needs to go. then cut it about 1-2 mm further. dont gorget to thread a regular nut down on the crank before cutting. you can also put the engine inside a ziplock or likewise bag, and push the crank through the plastic to protect the engine frome flying metal debris. good luck!!

[mrpj1972]

can anyone give me the details and some pics on doin the gt bellcrank mod to my rush? i already have the graphite upper deck, just need to know what else to buy.

[EJS]

My rush is stock excpet a header and some stiff purple springs in the rear and then 55wt oil all around. Whats the best way to make it so the front tires hook up and allow the truck to turn halfway decent? should I adjust the camber? different tires? sway bar? Give some ideas for fixing this. Thanks. Also do any of you run tire foams inside? what kind should i get? I dont know anything about them. thanks.

[WutaRush2]

i dont have foam in front but i do in back when you got to your lhs ask them if the foam will fit in the new tires that your buy and with the turning the rush doesnt turn well anyways but i still run stock tires on the front and i have no problems you could try new soft compound tires it might help?? hope this helps;)

[Pa|2a|)oX]

About the turning problems. Depending on what kind of surfaces you are driving on you should consider a specific type of tire. If you are mostly onroad, getting HPI V-Grooves all around would greatly help you with manoeuverability and traction. Softer springs in the front as well as a lighter shock oil will also help out. Sway bars are great for onroad driving and significantly increase your turning ability. If you are mostly offroad, try getting something along the lines of a Pro-Line Blade tire for the front. These are modded tires that help you obtain the grip you need while allowing you to turn freely. Foams should be used mostly for the rears unless you are driving onroad, when you are on loosely packed surfaces having no foams, or very light foams in the front will benefit you by allowing the tire to dig into the surface for grip. Otherwise the last thing for turning, and usually the last thing people look at, is the endpoint adjustment on your transmitter, depending on where its set at, you can see a total wide turning radius, or a very large one that can easily flip your car depending on speed. This should be played with until you find the proper adjustment which meets your needs and skill.

[mrpj1972]

anyone interested?? Rush screw kit (http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=61262#61262)

[Photoguy]

WutaRush2,
To get more steering on the front or less understeer, you have to get more traction on the front tires. I'm assuming you are running your Rush offroad. Blade tires work well to increase side grip which will give you better cornering with less understeer. Don't use sway bars for an offroad vehicle. Sway bars are for pavement and very smooth hard surfaces. On dirt, they will work against you. Full independent movement of the suspension is required, this is something sway bars prevent. Decrease pressure on the front springs or slightly increase pressure on the rear springs. Get some Dubro camber adjusters (do not use Titanium!) for the front suspension. Now here's the secret: get some Whiteout (Liquid paper) and brush a thick line ACROSS the tire tread. Do this in several places on each tire. Now drive the truck for a few laps. Look how the Whiteout is worn and adjust the camber so the Whiteout wears evenly across the tire. Do this several times to be sure. Use step-pin tires on the rear wheels. They seem to work well on all dirt surfaces.

[rcboy717]

Hey I like the whiteout idea photoguy! but why not titanium?

#TOM#

[Photoguy]

In my opinion, titanium is not practical. If you "slam" a wheel, the Dubro turnbuckles will bend, saving the suspension components. Titanium typically won't bend or break, something has got to give and that is the control arm (A arm). I actually aneal the camber and steering turnbuckles. I want them to bend under high stress. It is then a just a matter of using two pairs of pliers to bend them back into shape without removing them. Under running conditions they won't bend, but under a high stress "whack", the turnbuckle will bend. The truck will continue to run with a slightly bent turnbuckle, but you'll be out of the running with a broken turnbuckle or A arm. Titanium is for those "Dudes / Noobes " that are more concerned with bragging rights and bling. They really aren't practical in the "real" world.

[krisI.925]

Hello,

I used to own a nitro rush but I sold it to a friend and now he has completely botched up the pull start. And instead of fixing it he wants to try and use the HPI roto start system (aka this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFET0&P=0 ). But Im not sure if it will work on the truck. The truck has a RB Concepts C12 engine with pull start and side exhaust. Its running a MIP header and Paris Turbo ring pipe. So does anyone know if it will work? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[EJS]

Im tired of buying replacement AA batteries for my car and remote. What kind of battery packs will work for the rtr rush remote and for the car. is the battery pack on the back of the rush the only place that batteries can go? WHat have some of you done to fix this. Give me suggestions and even links to battery packs and chargers that would work for the rtr rush. Thanks alot.

[clodkiller]

Hello everyone i havent posted here in some time now but i have a few questions to ask.


I would like to start racing soon what is better suited for racing aplicatons .12 or .15 i just purchased a stater box too.

My bugget on spending for a new enginge needs to try to stay bellow 150 (us$) i can make a aception if a engine above 150 is really worth the extra money.

for christmass i got hop-up parts
graphite deck, aluminum rear brace, titanium turbucles, hpi header and ae pipe, racing clutch , fiber brake, threaded aluminum shocks any thing else that might help out ?

Frank

[rcboy717]

Hey clodkiller, what's your set up with the new shocks? What kind are they? How do they work? I'm in the market for some new shocks.

Will someone smarter then me get on EJS's question? I'm sure he'd appreciate it!

Thanks!
#TOM#

[Radio Acer]

i have no answer for EJS's qeustion but i do have one for for clodkiller.

right now i have an O.S. 15cv-r and most other ppl at my track also do. But many tracks don't allow .15 engines so u should check with your track operator. You also might want to consider graphite shock towers and maybe some aluminum rear a-arms or MIP CVDs (cause as i mentioned a while ago, i lost a drive shaft during a race cause the a-arms had so much flex) u will also want a faster clutch bell such as a 14T or 15T.

[mrpj1972]

i agree with Radio Acer! i too run an o.s. engine, except i have the standard version and not the racing one. if this is your first nitro engine other than the stocker, you definitely want to go with an o.s. engine. if you want to step right up to the plate and go big, then get the o.s. .15 cv-r (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALL4&P=0) if you still want to continue your learning direction, then try the o.s. .15 cv (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ29&P=0) the o.s. line of engines are probably one of the easiest to tune (when broke in correctly) and most reliable out there. as you can see the racing version is twice the horsepower, but for not much more money :) keep in mind that you will need to purchase some other much needed items to make your rush competitive on the track. here is my set up:
o.s. .15 cv-x - hpi racing clutch - 13t & 15t clutch bell - rear aluminum brace - rear aluminum arms - mip rear cvd's - front and rear hpi carbon fiber shock towers - hpi titanium turnbuckles - rpm heavy duty rod ends - duratrax header - associated small & large barrel aluminum pipe - updated 2.5mm chassis - hpi racer tank - duratrax fuel filter - integy heat sink head - hpi ss monster wheel front & rear - proline step pin t front - proline bow tie t rear - hpi rs4 bevel gears
that set up has won me a few a-main wins against losi's & gt's

[clodkiller]

Hello Thx for the input

Who ever asked about the shocks i ise they are Hot boddies t maxx shocks $20 a pair and they are threaded! only complaint is the o rings they come with suck but other wise a nice addition.

I was looking at the os .12 tr with the slide carb nice stat