HPI Nitro Rush Forum

[mrpj1972]

clodkiller- you will need new mounts and a new header to fit that engine in your rush. you might want to contact tower before ordering that engine, because they have it listed twice with 2 very different prices. also why not get the .15ss for same pricesee (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN391&P=0)

WutaRush2- the new chassis is the same thickness as the last upgraded one, its just a different color. the engine plate is better than the last one, because it has a larger "footprint" when mounted. i have a brand new chassis and mounting plate for sale if your interested. show me your best deal you have found on the net and i will beat it!

[clodkiller]

i would get the 15ss but the .12 pulls alot more power and ALOT more rpm

[Radio Acer]

clodkiller, you're also going to need to set up your rush for a slide carb. I don't know how to do that so someone smarter than me will have to tell u how.

[mrpj1972]

slide carb set-up would be easy, you would need an ofna slide carb linkage and then kick the carb around to get a good angle on it.

[clodkiller]

ok cool but will my fly wheel/ clutch match up to the crank it looks different.

[mrpj1972]

as long as it is standard shaft, you shouldnt have any problems. you will have to use the hpi engine mounts on anything other than the fe.

[clodkiller]

the .12 xs is a little to expesive for my curent bugget i think im going to go do the hpi engine exchange.

is the .12 ss any good and 1 had this before or the 15 ss

[mrpj1972]

well if your going to shell out $100 on an engine then why not get some quality backed with a 2 year warranty?? O.S. .15 CV-R (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALL4&P=7) that engine is pretty popular at my track and it will be the next engine i purchase for my rush. right now i have the standard cv-x version (the one with the blue head) not the race one. i have never had any problems with mine.

[C0NTENDER]

Sorry for the splatter guys, but I thought some of you should know what's going on with the HPI challenge this year if you don't already know.


Thanks for the question. We've been doing the standard HPI Challenge series for several years now and everyone's had a great time. In order to keep getting the race coverage in the magazines we need the series to evolve to keep up with the hot trends in the industry. So this year we will shift our focus a little to emphasize the Savage trucks.

We're planning two Savage Slam events that will be fun events like the one we did last year... racing, Savage Bowling, concours, long jump contests, barbeque, prizes etc. The idea is to get together for a fun truckin' event with friends and family. We're shooting for one event on the west coast and one event on the east coast, both in the Summer so that the whole family can attend.

For the HPI Challenge, we're planning one event with the format basically the same as in previous years (nitro and electric sedans), with selected winners getting a free trip to the HPI Challenge World Finals in Europe. The race will probably be in the Summer, somewhere in the middle of America.

If your not happy about this, please go to
HPI Challange (http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34825)
if you wish to make you opinion known.

[Tabushi]

The Rush EVO really worth it v/s the old nitro rush model ?? ...

On my rc airplane club we are planning to start racing rc offroad 1/10 creating our own category ... and maybe we will create an hpi nitro rush evo category but some people are afraid of the history over the prior rush chassis ...

[mrpj1972]

new rush has updated chassis, and has a better engine. there is also a better constructed engine plate to combat the whole chassis issue. the rush is not a "out of the box" competitive racer, but with a few upgrades it sure is fun to beat the likes of the losi's & gt's!!!!

[Tabushi]

Just a quick question ... not thinking on performance but just on rulebook-legal, the HPI nitro rush EVO with a .12 engine would be allowed to run on sanctioned events ?

thanks !!

[mrpj1972]

sure most people will allow .15's & .12's to run together but they will monitor the number of ports. like at my track we follow roar rules, to an extent. our rules are pretty simple, 3 port engines only and it must be a stadium style body on the truck. we also have divided that into 2 classes, one sportsman (beginner) the other modified stock. you can run in either class but once you win a season (4 months long) in the sportsman class you have to advance to the modified stock class. and if you start in the modified stock class you cannot go backwards. i'll help you in anyway i can to start your own rules.

[clodkiller]

i hate to be an a$$ and double post bnut i really need some opinions i need a new engine soon as possible

12ss or 15ss pro's and con's

[mrpj1972]

well clod, im going to stick to my guns and suggest the o.s. line over the hpi engines. o.s.= reliability, reliability, reliability!! and now the cv-r line comes with a 2 year warranty. there's my 2 cents

[clodkiller]

yea i know the cv-r is better but is hpi engine exchange seems best you get engine mounts updated flywheel and the 12ss or 15ss for $100

[Rushin]

Hey everyone this is my first post here but Ive had my rush for quite a while now.. I just ordered a Fantom FR15 for it too so im really excited to see how it will perform with a different engine other than the 15fe... o ya and are aluminum shocks worth the money and if so which will fit onto the rush..... thanks guys

[mrpj1972]

well i have heard nothing but good and seen nothing but awesome things about the fantom line of engines. be very careful how you break the engine in!!! they have some really high break in temps. if you can find a deal on the t-maxx big bore shocks, they work great. springs might be a little stiff for your liking but you can just re-use the stockers from your rush. dont forget to pick up the hpi engine mounts when you switch out your fe.

[Tabushi]

How many people around here have the nitro rush EVO ? ... and how its the experience with it ??

thanks !!

[mrpj1972]

yeah im real curious myself about how well the t.15 is holding up!

[Rushin]

Hey thanks MRP for the tip.... I have already bought the engine mounts and am still waiting for my Fantom.... I have stiffened up my rear shocks by using the purple HPI springs and 50 weight shock oil but I was just thinking that aluminum would look and perform a little better. As for the T-maxx shocks I'm not sure if you can get those in a set of 2 for just the rear and I dont think they will fit in the front either do you have any other suggestions?? O and about the Fantom how should i go about breaking it in with the high break in temps just let it idle??

[RC10tee3]

theres sets of two from hot bodies for like 18 bucks, then theres another set with threaded shock bodies for $20.99$


http://www.towerhobbies.com/listings/cat-cat-c2.html

[mrpj1972]

well i think RC10tee3 meant to link this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXANU0&P=7) but they dont come with oil to fill them. the traxxas ones come the oil, and you can get them in different lengths and with or without springs. i currently run the traxxas big bores that were originally purchased for a t-maxx i used to have, on my rush. i'm running the hpi black stock springs on the rear and the hpi white (super soft) up front. i do run some shock clips because i use my truck to race on a clay oval track. so its set with a little slant // :D as far as breaking in the fantom, read the instructions and then.............read them again!!! if your manual instructs you to run high temps during break in, you should not lean it out to get those temps. instead get the rpms up to raise the temps. you'll need to leave the needles where they are set from the factory. oh yeah dont forget..........read the instructions. also dont froget that fantom doesnt have a warranty!

[clodkiller]

well I made my decision to do the engine exchange through hpi but still cant decide .15ss or .12ss??????:confused: :confused: :confused:

Plus the hpi engine comes with a 2 year waranty and they take my fe off my hands


im going to have some fun with my fe before i send it in

[Rushin]

Hey thanks for the tip MRP I think Im going to get those hot bodies shocks. I race on asphalt which is why i use the purple springs(super firm) on the rear. for the front I use associated green springs (super soft) for some slant too =)

[SC1]

Tabushi,

My grandson and I ran a Rush for three years. The kid hit a lot of things while he was learning to drive it, to include running full-bore into the concrete foundation of our house. I replaced more than a few front-end parts, but we never had a chassis problem.

I believe all the chassis problems came from guys jumping these trucks off of hills, dirt mounds, etc. At any rate, the new chassis should be stronger, eh?

I just bought an MT2 for myself, and am probably going to get a Rush EVO for the kid, to replace his RC-10. Your club's idea of a "race class" sounds like fun. Wish I could get my fellow airplane/helicopter flyers interested in something like that.

.

[clodkiller]

.15fe oficialy dead

gotta set aside some cash i just spent it all on driving school. 12ss or 15ss :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[Rushin]

WOW!!!! this forum IS DEAD!!!!!! anyways jus wondering if anyone has put a bellcrank steering setup in their Rush and if anyone has... TELL ME HOW YOU DID IT!!!!!

[mrpj1972]

cant remember his name but there is a guy on hpiforums.com that set his rush up that way. i think you have to get the associated gt steering linkage and a lay down servo set-up.

[Rushin]

sounds like a plan!!!

[Nitrus rush]

Yea, it was me. I used a 645mg Hitec servo, Associated GT servo mounts and custom drilled holes in the chassis. Assembled the bell crank linkage and set it on the chassis and hooked up the turnbuckles. It wasn't too bad.

[Rushin]

Does it improve the steering at all?

[Nitrus rush]

Does it improve the steering at all?

Steering is about the same, but you can notice a little more turning of the wheels at full left or full right turn. Also, the bellcrank setup is a servo saver so you dont go stripping gears on your expensive servo in a crash.

[Rushin]

CRASH??? who crashes??

[Tom118118]

I have a fairly new rush and the back suspension seems low I have adjusted the setting but with no joy it keeps bottoming out is this right or is there another suspension i can use I have limited budget also I keep braking drive cups.

tom

[Tom118118]

hi Anemic slug do u no wat shocks i could use on my rush its fairly new i got it last weak

tom :D

[Tom118118]

is any1 there

[mrpj1972]

well by adjusting do you mean adding shock clips? another method would be changing out the shock oil to a heavier thickness. that will slow down the shock travel, but you have to be careful because, assuming your still on the stockers, thicker oil will raise the risk of popping the shock caps on a hard landing. another method is to put a short piece of fuel tubing on the shock shaft to stop the shock from compressing all the way. but again you raise the risk of other damage, on a hard landing you could snap the top of the shock tower because all the inertia is transfered to the shock mounting point. most guys just put up with the chasis taking the bulk of the hits, because it will outlast anything else. unless of course you bend it, then you can just send it in to hpi for a replacement. my 2 cents!! good luck!

[Tom118118]

what are shock clips like your other sugestions although a bit drastick it just sags when you put it on the floor and starts to compress to much to start with. seems the the springs are not strong enough for the weight

[Tom118118]

could i use the shocks of a t- maxx i have heard that some people have use them but do they work?

[Tom118118]

in other words are they worth getting them for my rush

[Radio Acer]

ok, i use 30 wt. oil in the back and get the HPI purple (super had) springs in the back and the bottoming out problem is solved. improves handling a whole lot too. and i use t-maxx shocks in the front and rear but you'll be fine with the stock shocks. those are my suggestions.

mrpj1972 also has some good ideas.

[mrpj1972]

i run the t-maxx big bores on my rush. i also use 30wt oil but in the rear i have the springs that came with the shocks, dont know what rating they are. and in the front i use the hpi white springs (super soft) i race my rush on a clay oval, so my truck is setup for racing, not bashing. shock clips are plastic spacers that come in different thickness, they snap on to the shock body above the spring. another quick way is to use zip ties in place of clips, although they most likely will not last long. go to your lhs and ask for some shock clips, heck they may even give you some if their cool enough.

[lou diamonds]

do any of u guys know who makes adjustable turnbuckles for the rush. my hobbyshop guy says no one make them for the truck. i would think losi for example would have somthin to fit. :confused:

[mrpj1972]

ummmmmmm hpi makes them..... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZT48&P=7

[clodkiller]

I use Hot boddies threaded aluminium shocks for the t-mazz on my rush they work very nice they come with very soft springs (no shock oil) but they only cost $19 a pair

[mrpj1972]

you can find the big bores for like $70 for all eight, and thats with springs and oil. then you can sell the other 4 or keep them as back ups. although i have never bent or broken any. :P

[Tom118118]

so t-maxx shock would be useful for my rather new rush

[Tom118118]

are they worth bidding on ebay for 4 quid or can you buy them new for less

[Tom118118]

does any1 now wat i could do or use too stop all the bashing on my rush .i havent put any1 hop ups on it coz i have only had it for a week and 2 days.also if i was 2 put any on there what 1s could i put on 2 stop all the bashing.what settings should i use too do 4 - 8 foot jumps.what setting have u got if you use your car for jumps coz i keep on braking the dog bones and drive shafts.thanx

tom

[mrpj1972]

better get yourself the aluminum brace before you bend your chassis. the rush isnt really a jumping truck, need to get you a monster truck for that like a savage!!

[Tom118118]

iv just got my rush and i am getting low on cash because i have too keep on buying bits for my rush but thanx any way

[Tom118118]

do you have any more tips from stopping the bashing . like settings.

[Radio Acer]

well, there are quite a few hop-ups that are pretty essential for the rush, but the shock upgrade is one that you can't live without. and for the dogbones, i've never broken any but i use MIP CVD's which i think are a little stronger.

titanium turnbuckles, aluminum rear brace, tuned pipe, and aluminum a-arms are some of the first hop-ups you might want.

[Radio Acer]

i'm trying to post a pic of my rush. hope it works
tell me what you all think (if it works)

[Radio Acer]

it only let me post one pic so here's the other.

[Rushin]

Nice Rush RadioAcer!! Do you have the aluminum A-arms on the rear?? I can't tell, anyway where did you get them? And you should get the graphite upper deck as you dont already have it.

[clodkiller]

I will fianly be getting some cash here i got a job mowing my neighbors yard for $30 every 5 days

I was about to get the 12ss today but it was dicontinued so i decided not to buy it i would really like to keep an Hpi engine in the truck im thinking the .12xs?!?!?!?

[rush freak]

drop in the new t 15 its a great motor for the price

[Tom118118]

i think your car looks wicked .what hop ups have you got on it

[Tom118118]

where did you get your body from it looks wicked i still got the red body that you get with it.iv only brought couple of new dog bones and diff gears

[Tom118118]

is your rush a rush evo because mine is .do you what the difference is between the rush and the rush evo.

tom

[Tom118118]

is any1 on line !!!

[clodkiller]

If any one here want's a cheap and efective way to keep track of speed, total distance, avg speed, total run time ect.... Go to a sporting goods store and buy a electronic ciclo master 212 you can set it to 2 different wheel diamithers ranging from 1 mm - 2999mm I bought it for my homade luge board and it worked perfect and very acuratly. you place the spuplied magnet onto the side of a wheel and the sensor to a no rotating place 3 mm away and it counts revolutions and claculates speed and distance. I have yet to try it on my Rush but you should be able to screw the magnet in to the wheel. It can handle speeds up to 74 mph The great part is it was only $25 e-mail me if you have any further questions staticx843@aol.com

[Radio Acer]

The body is a an HPI Rush body and my dad used Pactra paint for the paint job. and just a quick tip on the body: the bosy isn't that strong near the end so when you're cutting out the wheel wells in the rear don't cut along the indented line but about 2 or 3cm. below it to give it the axtra strength

some one asked about the aluminum rear a-arms, yes they are installed and you get get all that GPM stuf at www.hobbyetc.com.

clodkiller: i would still get the OS line of engines, just my two cents though

The main difference from the Rush to EVO is the chassis, mottor plate and the drive train is a little stronger, there might be more but i can't remember.
list of hop-ups is:
OS .15 cv-x
HPI tuned pipe and header
HPI ball diff
MIP CVD's
GPM rear bulkhead and a-arms
Hot bodies t-maxx shocks
lightwieght flywheel
14T clutch bell
Sway bars
hard anodized slipper clutch
graphite front and rear shock towers
titanuim turnbuckles
powerline cooling head for OS .15
my racing tires, proline Lugnuts and Edges
and last but not least, a JR XS3 radio

[clodkiller]

Yea i have heard good things about the O.S line of engines
but i want to keep it race legal fo the summer because my local track alows only .12 so i looking at the .12cv-r

[rcboy717]

Hi guys! I haven't been on the boards for a long time. I miss it!

so you guys are putting t-maxx shocks on the rush now? What about the front? I don't see how they would fit. If it all works out I got to get some!

God bless,
#TOM# <---- The other Tom:)

BTW... nice car Radio Acer (and paint)! I'm a fan.

[EJS]

I have my rush taken apart at the moment because i sent my bent chassis into HPI to get the replacement. What are some things i should get to help prevent it from bending again? Ive heard that the rear brace helps, is that true? what else should I get? Also i stripped a spur gear because the chassis bent, when i get the new chassis back how do i set the gear mesh properly? Do i need to loosen the engine screws and slide it up close to the spur gear? how close? I dont remember how it was when the car was new. some step by step instructions ould help alot, or a link to them. Thanks alot.

[EJS]

HOw can I be sure that my engine is tuned properly? Im new to the hobby and I dont have a temp gun yet? are those 30-40$ ones really accurate? what temp should my 15fe be running at? I have it tuned as best that i could tell, its responsive and it smokes at mid to high throttle. How can i tell that its tuned properly without the temp gun, should i buy one soon? Thanks

[EJS]

SInce i am getting the new 2.5mm chassis, can i also use the hd engine plate from the EVO? Will it fit right in? has anyone done this? Thanks

[rcboy717]

Hey EJS!
I don't have the rear brace yet and haven't had any problems with the 2.5mm chassis without it, but I'm sure it adds a little more beef and plus it looks trick;) and I belive it has clips to hold you power wire in place. I think I'll buy one soon.

Your engine settings sound great how you discribed them! you could check out you temp by warming it up then spiting on the egine head (near the glow plug). If the spit evaporates away vary quickly and violently you may say, it's too hot so add a little more fule to the mix (turn the mixture knob counterclockwise a bit). the opposite it true if your spit (or drop of water if you not that crude!:) stays on the head for some time. you want it to just sizzle of nice and easy. Remember to get the engine up to running temp. before you do any kind of tuneing.

I'm not sure if the other engine plate would fit. I don't have one. I've never try it. Sorry

God bless,
#TOM#

[EJS]

Thanks for the info. I just saw that there was an updated hd engine plate for the evo so i figured it would help out in the reg. rush, but i can always switch it out later. im gonna buy the rear brace and put my rush back together today.

[rcboy717]

Sweet. sounds good. My advice on the engine temp. probably wasn't as clear as you would have liked, but I'm sure that you could dig up some old car action magizine articles on the site that well give you awesome tips on tuneing your engine.

Enjoy!
#TOM#

[clodkiller]

Well now that i have the money to invest into a new engine im going high preformance im looking at the hpi .12r xs with 1.35hp @ 38,000 rmp and its $130 will this fit on too the rush with just engine mounts and will my FE clutch/ flywheel fit on the crank

[Rushin]

Clodkiller, yes that engine will fit on the Rush but the flywheel will only fit if it uses a collet... if it doesnt then you may have to buy a new flywheel.. On another note.. I just had idea about mounting the battery box at the front of the truck anyone done this ?? If you have what are it's benefits, I thought that it would distribute weight a little bit better throughout the truck.

[clodkiller]

I moved my batt box to the front of my fruch it is right behind the servo and the reciver is next to my fuel tank (reciver is covered and i have the graphite upper deck) It works pretty good its not to noticiable in the air it still flys good and level

[Radio Acer]

EJS- to find the right gear mesh, take a small peice of paper and put it in between the spur and the clutch bell. Now move the engine towards the rear and tighten the mounting screws. When you're done you shouldn't be able to remove the paper unless you spin the gears to get it out. And i have one of those $30 temp. guns and it proved to be just as accurate as the $70 ones.

[clodkiller]

Every one here posts pics of your truck I havent seen too many pics lately.

[Rushin]

Just got a new chevy silverado Body... Ill post pics when i get the chance to use a digicam. I painted the the silverado outlaw black with candy blue streaks its pretty cool I think.

[EJS]

Thanks for the info Acer, i got my truck all back together and running fine again. After I got it back together it was all out of tune, and a pain in the ass. ANyone have that HD engine plate from the evo? would it help stiffen up the chassis at all? thanks

[tazman]

I just upgraded my rush to a t-15 how much smoke should come out of the exaust?

[Radio Acer]

tazman-when you hit full throttle then you should see constant smoke but otherwise you shouldn't really see any, and this goes for all engines. hope this helps.

[EJS]

I have a problem with my stock hpi reciever.... if i walk more than 5ft away it dies, no functions work. I checked all wires etc, and still it wont work moe than 5ft away, I tore it all apart and put it back together and it worked fine for like 5 mins then it lost range again... then i toreit all apart/ put it back together again, and it only worked for 5mins again.... just driving in circles in my driveway like 20ft away from me.... it just all of a sudden loses throttle and steering.... any help would be greatly appreciated cause ive ran out of ideas... besides buying a new setup

[clodkiller]

This probly wont help too much but examine the antena and make sure the wire inside is not snapped or the part were it it conected to the reciver look at those conections 2
or it could be you have a cracked cyrstal in your contoler or reciver

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Hey all. Many of you may be familiar with my rush. I'm parting it out.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1429380#post1429380

If you want anything email me: paradox@hpiforums.com

It's been fun, but its time to move on. One last pic :(

http://hpiforums.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10099/tn_100_1817.JPG

[rcboy717]

Awesome Pa|2a|)ox! That's my goal for my rush and I'm getting close :cool:. I may shoot you an email with some questions soon.

Regards
#TOM#

[ou_phidelt]

I just a nitro rush for the bargain price of free. It is my first RC and cant wait to get some fuel for this thing. Being that I am in college and cant read all 34 pages of this thread is there any way I can get a cliff's notes version of what is up with this truck?

[ou_phidelt]

Stupid question. I have the HPI glow plug ignitor but I cant figure out where the hell to plug it in.

[mrpj1972]

well the ignitor goes into the top of the engine. you may not have time to read all the pages of this thread but you may want to make it a priority to read this (http://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/instruct-rush.htm)

[ou_phidelt]

Sorry for the poor wording on my part. I meant where to plug in the charger to the ignitor.

[mrpj1972]

well if it looks like this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ07&P=ML) one then you just plug it into the piece that is similar to a glow plug. not really sure of any other rechargebles that differ from this set up.

[ou_phidelt]

It is that one. The cord doesnt "lock in". It just pushes in and the spring pushes it back out. I cant figure out how to get it to stay.

[mrpj1972]

what has happened is the inside capture piece has flexed/bent open to far and it wont close anymore. you might be able to give it a slight bend to get it to lock on the charger, but you can most likely go to your lhs and get a new one for like $20. what your experiencing is the outcome of heavy use, so the battery may not even hold a decent charge. it might be in your best interest to get a new one.

[ou_phidelt]

Thanks for the help mrpj1972. I have it propped against the wall and it appears to be taking a charge. I made a trip the LHS today so if the weather is better tommorrow I'll see what it does.

[ou_phidelt]

It didnt take a the charge. I charged it for about 12-14 hrs and the light is still indicating its charging. Looks like another trip to the store.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

The light on the charger doesn't turn off.
Take the glow plug out of the engine, and with pliers put it on the glow plug igniter. If it glows white to bright yellow hot then you're fine. The light doesn't go off on these chargers.

[mnsavageguy]

i have a savage 25 and a nitro rush. my question to you guy and gals is this: last week (with my rush) i had a run away(fixable),is there a throttle return spring mod available(like the savage)?

[Pa|2a|)oX]

You can easily make a throttle return spring fit onto the rush. Its all about creativity, it's not an actual set youcan buy, but go to your local hardware shop and get some springs withhook ends on em and play around with the placement. you can usually mount it on the rollbar, then to the carb..

Btw Guys,
There's one thing left from the parting out of my rush.
This is the high quality F4i Titanium Chassis. There's also a rear tranny assembly attached to it which you can buy together with the chassis if you wish. The tranny includes a Heavy Duty Disk Hub, a Fiber Disk Brake, and Aluminum Lower Arm Mounts.
I'm letting it go for 60$ plus shipping, if you wish to purchase it with the rear tranny stuff I'll let it got for 75$ plus shipping.

Here are pics.
e-mail or post here for questions paradox@hpiforums.com

http://hpiforums.com/files/tn_100_2495.jpg
http://hpiforums.com/files/tn_100_2497.jpg
http://hpiforums.com/files/tn_100_2499.jpg


Thanks

[AsTheRushComes]

Does anyone no if there is a recall or something on the Rush dogbones??? Maybe its just me, but from the first time I drove my Rush and about every other run after that, the dogbones fly off and I have to go searching for them. One option is the HPI shiny cvd upgrade (which HPI says is about a mm or so longer) or MIP, which set is preferred? ::::: ATRC

[AsTheRushComes]

i have a savage 25 and a nitro rush. my question to you guy and gals is this: last week (with my rush) i had a run away(fixable),is there a throttle return spring mod available(like the savage)?

I had same prob about a week or so ago with throttle getting stuck wide open and my LHS says there is a throttle return for the Rush, but not sure which manufacturer. I'm wondering myself if I can get a better throttle linkage altogether that will fit the Rush running a .12 engine instead of having to mess with the return spring.

[clodkiller]

i had the dogbone problem but mine was when i raised the suspension i found a slight bend in both of the bones and bent it back and have had no problems since

[Radio Acer]

AsTheRushComes-my dogbones flew out during a race one time and it's not exactly that problem of the dogbones. the rear a-arms flex WAY too much so the dogbone can come out, so i had to get the aluminum ones from GPM, since then, no problem

[AsTheRushComes]

Thanks for the feedback. The dogbones only fly off when landing a jump and the A-arms are pushed upward. I'll checkout the aluminum arms, but I think the longer dogbones will do the trick. Oh, they arent bent either. I can't find the link, but HPI stated the shiny HD dogbones which fit the RS4 MT and Rush are a few millimeters longer to resolve any issues::::ATRC

[clodkiller]

will this work on my rush :
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWX1&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGEE4&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN373&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM718&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM719&P=7
will these screws work for holding down the engine and mountshttp://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM833&P=M

sry for all the items but i wana make sure it will work if you wouldent mind looking at what i have picked out.

Frank

[Radio Acer]

I highly doubt the 2 speed will work. first, when you have a 2 speed you can't have a slipper clutch, and second, the 2 speed would only work on asphalt (atleast this is what HPI is saying, i never tried it out myself) as for the motor and mounts, i don't know. I would check to see if the engine has the same mounting dimesnions as a .15, if it does, then you can probably use it. if you can't find that out than ask HPI.

I also have a question. Whenever i just barely touch the boards during a race my servo saver pops off and i'm basically done. Has this ever happened to anyone else?

[clodkiller]

can you take the sliper unit off ?? for it to work because i think the unit works on the mt

[clodkiller]

i know the engine will its a small block but i really want a 2 speed if any one knows of a 2 speed that works on the rush send me a link ( the keepin it clean isnt a problem)
im gonna make a aluminum cover

[clodkiller]

found it the price is a little od i thinks its so high because it was new tech 2 years ago i wana c if i can get it cheaper
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB56&P=ML

[J_Caverly]

Here are some pics of my racing rush.

[J_Caverly]

2 of 3

[J_Caverly]

3 of 3

[AsTheRushComes]

OMG! I can't believe this happened to my Rush tonight. Fired it right up with a fresh tank and my new hpi racing clutch sprung and exploded my clutch bell and destroyed a new spur gear. I can't believe this, this clutch was supposed to be rugged enough to handle a few runs and it kills while idle. Is there any other upgrade options other than the HPI racing clutch? For some reason I don't trust the hpi clutch. :::::ATRC

[ViperR]

That's one of those cheap HPI cluthbells that are made of potmetal. You need a steel one. Duratrax makes good ones. That way, you can still use the HPI racing clutch that is a good one.

[AsTheRushComes]

Yea your right, it'd never given me any trouble before so I hadn't replaced it. I got the 15T HPI clutch bell but by the sounds of it it may eventually get replaced. The lhs tonight said they wasn't any other option for the clutch than what HPI had to offer. I thought that was a load and he reaassured me that if I really wanted to make I racer out of my Rush, than I might as well buy a TripleX-NT Adam Drake since im runnin the novarossi. Gotta love those guys!

[AerialGunner]

I need to know if that RS4 2speed WILL work or not. If not, Imma try it anyway. Just let me know what needs to be done. PLEASE!!!!

IT M U S T BE DONE!!!!!

[AerialGunner]

I'm talking about for the RUSH EVO!!!!

HELP ME PLEASE!!!

[clodkiller]

Last weekend my fun consist of two 18v DeWalt drill batteries and my toys r us Hummer from when I was 10
I was bored so i hooked up the 2 packs used a bungie to hold em down and ran the 4 wires to the conector. The Tourqe was crazy I would sit and spin if you peged the gas the tires were so bald the truck still only did about 15mph because of the super low gearing and after about 20 min the truck turned into a rolling smoke bomb and drove for another 5 min till the motor had fallen out because it melted itself out ot the holder. In the end it was all worth it to see the truck rollong down the street with smoke billowing out from under it.

[AsTheRushComes]

Last weekend my fun consist of two 18v DeWalt drill batteries and my toys r us Hummer from when I was 10
I was bored so i hooked up the 2 packs used a bungie to hold em down and ran the 4 wires to the conector. The Tourqe was crazy I would sit and spin if you peged the gas the tires were so bald the truck still only did about 15mph because of the super low gearing and after about 20 min the truck turned into a rolling smoke bomb and drove for another 5 min till the motor had fallen out because it melted itself out ot the holder. In the end it was all worth it to see the truck rollong down the street with smoke billowing out from under it.

yo clodkiller, you gotta post some pics of ur hummer! http://home.earthlink.net/~joshpowelson/images/icons/icon_crackup.gif

[clodkiller]

sorry I trashed is when i was done ill try to find the truck on toys r us web site

[clodkiller]

here is a similar truck to what i had i had the large version and mine was the origional hummer.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00021PTSK/qid=1088008297/sr=1-5/ref=sr_1_5/103-8644243-5835061?v=glance&s=toys

[Radio Acer]

I have a problem with my Rush and therefore a question. Whenever i go off a jump or push down on the rear end then it doesn't want to return back up to it's normal position, so basically i have 1/2 an inch of suspension travel. I have a swaybar and Hot Bodies T-maxx shocks with 30 wt. (associated) shock oil installed. Can anyone out there tell me what to do to bring my suspension back to life?
(I've tried putting the sleeve thing that screws onto the shock lower to make the springs harder, it doesn't help much because then it's really hard to push the truck down then.)

[clodkiller]

i would try replacing the o-rings and putting in new fluid. There could be not enough or just tons of tiny air bubles in it. only thing i can really think of

[Radio Acer]

that's what i would do, but the shocks have only gone through 5 or 6 tanks of feul, and i don't think it's time for a rebuild, if i somehow i find a solution, i'll tell you guys. but thanks anyway

[EJS]

Ive ran a gallon through my rush in the past 6 months. Now i dont drive it much because of problems with the radio. The throttle stays open too long and sometimes it loses range within like 5 ft. Im scared of having it runaway. I think the problem is the stock reciever box in the car.. Can i just go out and buya new one of these? or do i need to get a whole new setup? what are some of you guys running? FM? how much $$$ is just the new stock reciever? or a new system? thanks alot. I want to fix it for as cheap as possible. Also what servos are best for the steering in the rush? (brands and model names/numbers) Thanks

[mrpj1972]

first off you didnt say whether or not you tried putting fresh batterys in your truck, so if you havent, you should do that first. :rolleyes: also how old is the truck? sounds like this could be covered under warranty, but be prepared for some more down time. hpi is usually pretty good with the customer service. if your going to replace it, your better off just buying a hole new system, but you can certainly find a stocker for dirt cheap. try looking on ebay, or even the message boards. people are always upgrading their radio systems. as far as a servo, stick with the futaba line for your truck. they are the most economical for the use that your going to need. anything that has bearings and more speed will be ideal for you. below are some links to some of the things i spoke of:

servo (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVW07&P=0)
radio, reciever & single servo package (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXASX2**&P=0)
radio, reciever & 2 servo's package (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXASX3**&P=0)

[clodkiller]

I Finaly got a new engine my mom bought me a O.S cv_r for my b-day. Today i finished the breakin process. And i am now starting to drive a little harder. I was making a pass and decided to drive into my front yard. I turned around and then the truck was reving but no moving so something in the tranny is stripped any idead what it is before i got tearing into it???

[Radio Acer]

If you have a Ball Diff, then check to see if it's loose. Is your slipper clutch tightened? The flywheel, clutch, or clutchbell could be loose. there might be something wrong with your dogbones or the hex in the wheels could be stripped. And you should also check your gear mesh. that's just about all i can thnink of that could go wrong, other than a stripped gear in the tranny.

[RC10tee3]

i think i know exactly what it is ,,,take apart your tranny then take the four little screws out of the diff and see if the bevel gears have stripped or cracked in to pieces,,,,that has happen to me 3 times now and thats exactly what it sounds like happen to you,,,but if you have a ball diff then its not the prob

[mrpj1972]

RC10tee3, well if your replacing your bevel gears that often you need to buy the ones for the rs4. they are the same size but they're made of a better metal. they hold up well too. i had them in my rush that has seen, upgraded stock .15, o.s. cv-x .15, o.s. cvr-x .15 & a fantom .12.

clodkiller, you should check all your external stuff before tearing open a diff or a tranny for that matter. go for the easy things first!!

[RC10tee3]

i'm not replacing them that often,,,after along time they just wear out and break apart or they just strip out but now that i packed the diff with vaseline :D it hasnt happen since,,,,but thanks for telling me about the other gears from the rs4,,next time i have to replace them ill get those and if i get the money ill buy the ball diff

[clodkiller]

every thning external is good just the bevel gears grind like crazy and something inside is striped i ordered a middle gear because that is what usualy goes in the tranny.

About the diff gears in the rs4 are you sure there not pot metal?

[mrpj1972]

well here are the links to the tower pages that show both sets. you can see that the material used is listed in the "features" towards the bottom. those gears are the exact same size, just different materials. trust me on this! i have used those gears in 2 diffs and never had any problems.
pot metal (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM742&P=7)
cast (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTA4&P=7)

[Mini Z]

sup all, I'm getting a Nitro Rush next week. What should i buy to just improve it a little. Its an RTR Nitro Rush =) Also is the motor i have in my truck a nitrostar? Becuase i was looking @ other stock nitro rush's and they have small aluminum heads. Mine came with a purple head.

[mrpj1972]

you will find most of your answers here (http://hpiforums.com/viewforum.php?f=2&sid=7cbb9358c1f57cda24f9355ddeb93f32)
i like to improve on a truck for the longevity. so i suggest, an air filter upgrade, a fuel filter addition & a header & pipe upgrade for a little more boost. you need to figure out your long term plans for the truck and then build from there. oh and yes that is the nitro star engine, im assuming that you have a yellow body?

[Mini Z]

yea comes with a yellow body. Hmm cool those are the first suggestions i was thinking in my mind. Though I've been reading about the chasis, and how some say its weak then some say its strong enough. Heh are there any other chasis for the nitro rush? link you provided seems to be down or not working

[Mini Z]

Anyone know if the HPI Racing Clutch and HPI lightened flywheel will work with my truck?

[Radio Acer]

The HPI racing clutch will work and assuming u mean this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM759&P=7) flywheel then yes it will work. But you will also need to get this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXM719&P=V)
My chassis has held up to all the beatings i've given it. (it hasn't been that much but it's lasted). I would also reccomend putting HPI purple springs in the rear, and if you want to, thicker shock oil. titanium turnbuckles are also a must, i bent my stock turnbuckle after my first run. And watch your slipper clutch for wear. I found out the hard way that it doesn't last too long.

[Mini Z]

what does that brass collet thing do?

[Radio Acer]

You force the Flywheel onto the collet and the collet basically grips the shaft so that the flywheel doesn't fall off or become loose. I have the flywheel modification and you need the brass collet to make it work.

[clodkiller]

The truck as is RTR is a very fun truck. Every thing on my truck worked perfect with the exeption of wear and me crashing it 1 time. Regular driving like on your street or in your yard or a park is good just when you go to a track with stock parts is gets alot harder to keep your truck in one pice. So i would think about what you are going to be doing. And buy your hop-up parts from there.

Best advice is take care of your engine unless you have money to invest in parts or a new one.

[clodkiller]

I replaced the bevel gears they were 100% gone they looked like they mad ben shot with a gun or something. The grease inside was full of teeth and chips. Every thing works good but I got a neighbor that might be able to either harden them or machine ones out of better metal.

[Mini Z]

i think there are 2 types of bevel gears for the rush on i think is made of pot metal and the other is like cast iron or something???

[mrpj1972]

11 posts up says the same thing

[nitro for life]

Has anybody used the K&N air filter system from bluestarracing.com I wanted to know if it was wearth the money. Does it make the engine perform better.

[mrpj1972]

no it is not "worth" (lol) the money. they are overpriced pieces of equipment that is not intended for rc use. stick with what is made for rc, like the motorsaver filters, or hpi actually has nice ones too.

[clodkiller]

I had seen one cool home made K&N air filter the guy has an old one his pick-up truck he cut a round pice out and wraped a slim pice of foam around the circle cut out he was using what looked like the air filter boot from an O.S engine

[clodkiller]

what shocks do you ppl use i got tmaxx shocks woth the hardest springs in the rear and i bottom out when i jump a curb i got 50 wt oil j/w what every ones set up is and how it does off road

[Radio Acer]

I use the Hot Bodies t-maxx shocks, 30 wt. (Team AE) oil and I have the springs that came with the shocks, but i don't know what they are rated, but the spacer thing is down to about the half the shock body length. It handles really well on the track and for bashing around.

[clodkiller]

yea i got the hb t maxx shocks and use those grey ones in the front do you bottom out much in the rear?

[clodkiller]

my bad one more question is a turbo head upgrade any good for an .15 os cv-r i hear is rasies rpm slightly are we talking like 1000 rpm or like 200

[Radio Acer]

No, I don't really bottom out much, just off some really tall jumps. I use Losi Red Springs in the front, they're softer and work better in front.

[clodkiller]

I have some troubles with my .15 os cvr My gas tank was getting dirty along with my filter so i cleaned them then ran the truck and it cuts out if i go past half throtel. I got full compression my nedles were fine but i messed around with them to try to get it right again ( 2 tanks of gas ) and its still not right
What settings do you run on your .15 os cvr engine if any one has it so i can get a general area

[rshooch]

has any one have the new(not so sure on how new it is) rush evo?? i used to rc long ago but on the street.. im looking to get back into the nitro rc but off road and im looking at the rush evo.. i never had any big problems with hpi.. just wondering about it. any help would be great.. also i will only be using it for fun around the yard some small jumps hear and there but mostly just beating up the yard.. one more thing my old engine from hpi is the nitro star .15 fe and the one that comes with the rush evo is t-15 is the quality as good as the fe?? my fe still runs fine to this day and i bought it back in 1999 i belive..

btw nice site lots of info :cool:

Ryan

[clodkiller]

The rush evo is suppored to be pretty good it basicly a rush beefed up in its trouble spots like chasis/engine motor plate and a few other minor things. The new t-15 is supposed to be a very good little unit. It has a nice increase in power that the .15fe lacks. The rush is very well suited for bashing it has very beefy parts that take a good beating and if they break they are cheap and easy to replace.

[rshooch]

cool thanks for the reply i should be getting it in the mail in about a week :D

[clodkiller]

sweet If your looking for some good refrence take the time and read throug some of the pages of posts they arent about the evo but they have tons in common and thers some good tips ext...

[rshooch]

yeah ive read about half of the post so far just trying to find time for the other half lol

[rshooch]

ok well i didnt get the rush evo i got the hpi mt2 insteed.. i looks to me to be the same thing just four wheel dr.? any way im happy and cant wait to chase the dogs with it lol

[I_KUT]

I just bought a rush last week (used) and quickly blew the engine :mad: What's the fastest engine i can get for my rush?

[Radio Acer]

There's a bunch of fast engines out there.most people at my track use an O.S. .15 cv-r. Then there's fantom, Team orion wasp, and others. And if you don't have them, then you'll need Hpi motor mounts, and a flywheel and collet.

[clodkiller]

OS.15CV_R Fast,Reliable,Afordable,Waranty


All u need to know ^

[I_KUT]

thanks for the info, i will get the O.S. 15cv-r. but, just to be sure..do i need to buy a new flywheel and collet? the flywheel and collet i have for my .15fe wont work?
also..the reason i blew up my 15fe is because the air filter fell off when i was running it in some sand..i wanted to rebuild the engine as a spare so i am going to order a new piston and sleeve..but when i look into the air intake, the crankshaft is pretty scratched up..not like on the hpi website, but pretty bad, i dissasembled the engine and there was very little sand inside, maybe a few grains..i guess my question is...will these scratches on the shaft affect compression..and is it worth it to buy a new one? the motor wont start at all and my LHS's are all saying the motor is garbage..but i would trust youre opinion more...

[clodkiller]

i would look at every seal and bearing to make sure it still has compresion in the crank case. im not sure if the scratches will hurt the crank shaft they will just act like oil rings and lube that area probly.

[clodkiller]

yes u need a fly wheel and collet

[clodkiller]

and u need hpi engine mounts

Big tip here if u buy the mounts from the hobby store and they got the parts behind the counter they will had u the $40 mounts ask for the $5 ones they always have them in stock and they work perfectly fine. they dont look like anything special but they dont look hack either

[TheGasMan]

Hey all you guys. I got a Rush Evo last couple of weeks ago (RTR with HPI electronics etc) and just finished running it in. Got the DVD thing with it too. Problem is I just cannot get the brake and steering right (drifts to right even on full trim - and VERY poor brakes). The HPI guys make it look easy to trim etc. Am I missing something - PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!

[TheGasMan]

to rshooch...

Yep - recently bought the "new" HPI Rush Evo RTR (pull start - not a fan of the RotoStart) - and as mentioned in my post I've had a couple of niggles. But the engines ace - cant wait to get 25% fuel!! (only runnin 10%). Thicker chassis and stuff - its built like a tank - though i'd recommend firmer springs - backs a little soft. But a great buy anyway.

[Radio Acer]

GasMan-I suggest that you take the steering servo out of the car and pop the servo saver off of it. turn on your radio and car and make sure that you have your steering trim in the center. Now mount the servo saver onto the steering servo as close to center as possible. After you have mounted the servo back in the car then a minor trim adjustment should make the car track straight. as for the brake, I had the same prob, but all you have to do is screw in the litttle screw at the end of the braking linkage as far in as it will go, or install fuel tubing that is longer than the spring in place of the spring. hope this helps

[Radio Acer]

speaking of steering and servos, has anyone ever installed a bellcrank setup in their rush? if so can you please tell me how to do it and what i'll need (other than the graphite upper deck). thanks in advance

[I_KUT]

i just had my rush at the track for the first time today and had some serious problems with the cvds falling out..man i didnt even make it all the way around the track! also..after about a quarter tank of fuel it kept stalling on me..it seemed to be running super rich but it shouldn't have been..i thought it was a clogged air filter so when i removed it i noticed that it was SOAKED with fuel..i blew the fuel out with compressed air and it worked fine again for a quarter of a tank. im using the stock nitro star 15 fe..anyone have these problems? help me please!

[TheGasMan]

Cheers for the reply, Radio Acer, ...I'll get my screwdriver out now!

[Radio Acer]

The drive shaft falling out problem is the rear a-arms problem. they flex way to much and therefore let the drive shaft fall out (i had this same problem the first day i went to the track too) get urself a good pair of aluminum a-arms from GPM Racing. ( www.hobbyetc.com ) is their only distributor. i bought those and never had anther drive shaft problem again and i race weekly.

As for the FE, I have found it as junk, others haven't had problems with it, but i did. I overheated it once, maybe twice but i'm not sure. then it retired, but i was having problems with it even before that happened, so i bought the O.S. cv, and it runs like a beauty, i didn't have much experience with the FE so i don't have any idea what's wrong with it, but save yourself some trouble and buy a new motor, that's my 2 cents.

[Radio Acer]

and check the feul tank for leaks especially air leaks, like around the primer ;)

[Logan100]

I-Kut Yup new A-arms are the way to go but if cash is a prob or need a quick fix try this: If you take O-rings (size P3 i belive but if im wrong they are the same ones used to cushion the fuel tank) and use them to evenly space the dog bones (i have 3 off my diff and 2 off my rear axels) this helps....well fixes the prob but you can also adjust rear ride hieght to help but you'll run into bottom out probs so try the O-rings and get the arms.
about the engine I would be patient with it get at least 5 tanks through even if it takes a quater tank at a time. They are moody as moody gets. Still hooped find your air leak.
Hope this helps L8

[I_KUT]

thanks everybody...actually i found a similar fix yesterday with the dogbones...snip a little bit of fuel line to space them out..works like a charm!
also thanks with the engine probs...i will check into the air leak..

[rush racer]

can anyone tell me i have a rushevo with an 18ss and some upgrades was wondering if i could race it? and if i can do i need a fm radio or could i use my am radio

[Radio Acer]

You'll be fine with the AM radio since you're just starting to race, later on might want to step up to FM. But the first thing i would check is to see if ur local track operator allows engines larger than .12 size (since u have a .18). And if you don't already have them then get titanium turnbuckles, the stock ones bend, snap, twist, and every other imaginable thing, i know from personal experience. and you might want to get a 14T or 15T clutch bell depending on the track's layout and size, that should get you started for racing.

[rush racer]

i was wondering why you have a foot or so of fuel line going to your exhuast is that what it calls for .

[rush racer]

Every one here posts pics of your truck I havent seen too many pics lately.
how do you post pictures of your vehicle?

[Tony1l]

You can improve your Rush's breaks by adding a wheel collar and spring. Tower Hobbies have many choices, search wheel collar. I've setup a spring on both sides of the hook and by setting the collar I control it's exact position. I have also added springs to the screws that separate the metal break plates. (see attached photo) These springs came out of an old ink pen. I trimmed the springs to give just a little push, as it doesn't need much.

[Tony1l]

These were taken before I installed my T.15 and turnbuckles, but that body was new.

[Tony1l]

Dirthawg's don't you love em'

[Tucker01]

a report on my sons Rush Evo which may be of use to other Rush owners.

The Rush Evo as it comes seems to have problems in a few areas, notably:

Slipper clutch slipping too much
Weak diff gears (should be replaced under warranty, and all new Rush's come with steel gears)
Ineffective brake
Monkey metal clutch bell
Very weak steering arms
Weak inner front lower suspension pins (screws)
Poor suspension (especially at rear which is way too soft)
Too much uptravel on rear suspension causing diff joints to snap

We have upgraded our Rush with the following:

72208 Heavy Duty Middle Gear – beefs up drivetrain
80815 MIP Shiny CVD’s – beefs up drivetrain
A885 Nitro Racing Clutch – set to hole 2, gives better acceleration, doesn’t melt so easily
72213 Heavy Duty Diff Shaft Set – don’t beak or wear as quickly as OE items
72220 Turnbuckle Set – dial out some of that camber, don’t bend in crashes as easily
A988 Heavy Duty Clutch Bell 13T – made of steel, uses ballraced bearings
A863 Engine Mounts – needed to fit Heavy Duty Clutchbell
72215 Diff Spring Kit (using silver spring) – gives some LSD action to diff
75190 Sway Bar Set – reduces roll in corners
86014 Steel Bevel Gears – beefs up drivetrain
72180 Aluminium Rear Brace – helps with gearbox location, reduces gear mesh troubles
A844 Fibre Brake Disc – improves braking
72207 Heavy Duty Disc Hub – essential for reliable slipper clutch action
86316 Ally Hex Hub Clamp Type – don’t get caught in the wheels, no more lost drive pins
6784 Yellow Front Springs – softer than stock for more steering
6799 Purple Rear Springs – harder than stock for more steering
72200 Stainless Steel Hinge Pin Set - wont bend in a crash like the monkey metal screw pins
Spur Gear Ballraced Bearing – replaces bushing
Ofna Micro Failsafe
Fuel Filter
Throttle return spring

After finding the HPI fibre brake disc had some high spots on it causing the brakes to lock prematurely (and us being too impatient to wait from them to wear down), we fitted an Inferno MP-6 metal brake disc and brake pad material. You can use any Inferno disc (they all have identical mounting specs), and the result is powerful, reliable, fade-free braking. Mount the pad material to the backing plates with a good two-part epoxy glue. We added a collar to the brake rod so that at full throttle the brake lever is forced open (just a safeguard as the brake lever can get a bit tight with dirt build up).

We found that with the diff springs we needed one shim behind each large bevel gear, and one shim behind each small bevel gear. We're running the silver (soft) spring.

We've balanced all the wheels with blutack, which makes a huge difference to performance, as our wheels were extremely unbalanced.

With the TX set to 50:50 movement, and the carb arm ball set to it's lowest position (i.e. nearer the carb arm pivot) we get about 95% full throttle and great brake action (the carb arm and/or servo horn will need modifying to get the carb open 100%).

We have had problem with the drive pin for the disk hub coming out (as have many others), so we've removed the pin and O-ring and used a long allen bolt and nut instead.

We've reduced rear suspension uptravel with some fuel tube spacers round the shock shaft (so now the driveshaft doesn't smash into the top of the diff output cup at full compression), and we're running 250 weight oil at the front with 600 weight oil at the back (all with standard pistons). We use 19mm of spacers at the rear, and none on the front. Although this setup really improves the suspension (especially the soft rear end), it's still in it's early days and I feel softer (white) springs at the front and perhaps some fine tuning with oils and pistons is still required.

As this is a low maintenance multi-surface bashing car, we're running the thickest anti-roll bars front and rear.

My son ran about half-a-dozen tanks through the car round the local 1/8th off road track on Saturday with no problems except one bent and one missing front inner suspension screw in a crash right at the end of the day (we have now upgraded to stainless steel suspension pins). The car drives well, wheelies whenever it gets traction, lands flat off of jumps, and can be powerslid (is that a word??) round the corners with ease.

We're still using standard servos and a NiMH 4 x AA battery pack. Fuel is 16% Duraglow.

Our next planned upgrades will include a pair of Hitec 625MG's, a 6V hump pack, a Kimbrough Nitro servo saver, Proline firm foams, Proline Gladiator II rear tyres, and we'll be switching to 20% Big Bang for all our cars after our current fuel stockpile is depleted.

http://pic13.picturetrail.com/VOL451/2326927/4570344/67954252.jpg

http://pic13.picturetrail.com/VOL451/2326927/4570344/67954247.jpg

http://pic13.picturetrail.com/VOL451/2326927/4570344/68072321.jpg



Hope someone finds this useful.

[clodkiller]

Wow get a new air filter. but thats besides the point nice truck
t-maxx shocks in the back make a very nice upgrade

I would say get the ae tuned pipe $17 adds some good tourque.

[Radio Acer]

How do you fit a 5 cell receiver pack in the rush? do have to take off the top cover on the battery pack cover and then mount the pack with zip ties? just a question since I'm considering a good pack.

[Tucker01]

A 5-cell hump pack should fit inside the cover instead of the AA holder as they are designed to be roughly the same size.

[Logan100]

tell me what you think???? I have a bad problem with my front shocks popping out of the mounting hole at the bottom of the A-arm. No prob with the mount in the shock tower (carbon fiber). So heres what I want to do...
Drill out that hole in the A-arm and feed a nut and bolt of some sort through the shock and arm itself. Has anyone done this and or do you think it will lead
to broken arms??? I am trying to order aluminum arms from GPM racing but I allready have like $350 of **** on order.

[Nitrus rush]

I got a 5 cell receiver pack that fits into the stock battery holder just fine. I hold my rear shocks onto the tower with 3mm nuts, washers, and screws, so doing the same for your front shocks would work great.

[Radio Acer]

Nitrus- Do you know what company the receiver pack comes from, or a Tower Hobbies part # or something like that? Thanx

[Nitrus rush]

Nitrus- Do you know what company the receiver pack comes from, or a Tower Hobbies part # or something like that? Thanx

I have the Team Orion 1200 mah Marathon Pack. Here's the link, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXENT8&P=ML

[Radio Acer]

That's the one I'm thinking about getting, I was just makin sure it fits :rolleyes: Thanx

[aeb3man_44]

here is the rush i got for $30

any ideas for upgrades with exhaust etc.?

[Blacktiger]

Best cheap upgrades for the exhaust would be a rc10gt header and pipe.

[aeb3man_44]

cool i can get a gt for 30 dollars

[ta03 tuner]

hey I just picked up a cheap Nitro Rush too...(56 bucks)....anyone have experience with the T-15 engine? I just got mine in the mail today to replace the 15FE that is in the Rush..Haven't installed it yet but will later this week...Hope it works out...

[Radio Acer]

Has anyone ever installed bellcranks into their Rush? How do you do you do it what do you need? I need to find out cause I stripped a metal gear servo with out even hitting anything, and I know bellcranks will help.

[clodkiller]

Im not telling you not to do a bell crank but its really not worth the time and effort I got my servo 2 years ago and its held up fine 140oz ball bearing metal gears.
My truck has gone through tons of boddies probly 8 from street driving. my truck will cart wheel down the road at 40 and nothing breaks. either your servo saver wasnt on tight enough or its just a fauly part. I cant see how any one could break that

from what I have heard bellcrank is a pain in the A$$
you gotta drill and cut a hole under side and get the crank i think from a gt

[Radio Acer]

ok nevermind. I took the whole darn thing apart and found out that the newly bought servo saver was a peice of crap, it has about 1cm. of play in it and then it will stick to a different direction if a bearly hits anything. I'm getting a kimbrough servo saver that should be a whole lot stronger, so I think there shouldn't be another problem for a while. Except I think my clutch gave way at the last race and I'm going to replace it with the HPI racing clutch. Anyone have any suggestions as to what hole I should put it on? Thanx

[martin444]

What is the purpose of having fuel and exhaust pressure pipes so long and coiled up? :confused:

[martin444]

I just Wanted to show it off its still stock but I love it

[Radio Acer]

The pressure lines are so long because when the truck is flipped over then there will be enough pressure in the fuel tank and prssure lines to keep feeding the engine fuel and keep it running longer when the car is on it's lid.

[Logan100]

hey you guys what is the length of your lines? (gas,pressure)
also what is your ride height set to ?
i want to set my ride hieght so that my A-arms are level but i think ill
bottom out to much.

[Radio Acer]

I set my ride height so the dog bones are level and i don't botom out too much. But if you're using the stock springs then you better switch to HPI purple (super hard) and put either 30 or 35 weight oil in the shocks.

[Logan100]

cool thx acer I have the super shock (Hpi) and a waste of money at that and Im using the hpi blue springs and half 35 and half 70 weight with approx 20mm of spacers
also im using #2 pistons. Plan on going to straight 35 -40 weight and putting purple springs back on. Had a problem with the lower screws popping out of the rear A-arms
(well fronts aswell) every time i jumped over 5-6 feet in the air. 70 weight and #3 piston and purple springs with spacers added aswell = friggin rock hard shock but stock plastic A arms cant handle the force of big jumping. Alum A-arms are in this or next week. So im gonna lower my ride height to level A-arms and do some trial and error. Also my fuel line is about 30 cm long (old racing trick more fuel longer run time)
but my pressure line is about 10-15cm. What do you guys run and sell me on what improvments you noticed. COO THX
I will put a picture of my evo up soon, lots of aluminum but its to take out slop and not for bling bling OK maybe a little bit. Naw if you race you want no you need reliability and plastic just dont cut it.
Anybody seen or tried the Sirio S12SE adam drake edition???? Read a review that said more power than most pros can handle and specifically designed for 1/10 scale stadium trucks.
SOLD lol.. Tell me what you think or know about it.

L8R....

[Tucker01]

So you're currently running 52.5 weight oil and plan to switch to 35-40?

Your front shock setup sounds way too hard. When you jump your Rush are you landing on a down slope, or flat on the ground? A 6ft jump flat onto the ground is a bit much for most vehicles, even 1/8th scale buggies break shocks doing that.

I'd avoid going with the Ally suspension arms. More weight, more breakage prone (they are not as forgiving as the plastic arms), and more expensive to replace when they break.


I'd work on my shock settings and maybe jump technique some more, see what you come up with.

[Radio Acer]

the prob with the stock plastic arms is that they give way too much. i lost a driveshaft because of a mere flip incident. and the GPM aluminum a-arms don't break, bend, or anything else i can think of. and yea, cut down on the height from which you launch your truck, 6 ft is way too high.

[Logan100]

Yeah sorry I might have been a little vauge on my front shock set-up. I run 25 weight with #2 piston and yellow spring with no spacers. Like you I think you could go softer.
Problem is, I live two hours from any R/C tracks so I am at the local BMX track most of the time, which has some huge hits and thats were the big jumps are. There is two sections on the track where Ive found landing flat is best in order to keep your rythym. One is a 3ft table top jump stretching like 10-12 ft. Clears no prob and at that height controling the landing is easy. One thing I'll say is if you have the Evo, dont be affraid to throw the thing around. Ive beat the crap out of mine and had little problems even with stock parts. I broke stock rear drive axel and bent a steering shaft and we wont talk about the state of my rims. LOL but thats the price of testing the limits.
Plan is to drop a motor with enough pull that extra weight from alum. hopefully wont be to much of a thorn and if it is I always have stock parts. Plus you can have the best car and the best set-up but if you cant drive you cant be competitive. I wouldnt have put so much time and money into this chassis if I couldnt handle the thing ( i have a savage aswell and am a fan of HPI and like the evo even if its geometry isnt a dominating design.) I live in a pretty windy climate so im still up in the air on weight..
L8R nice trucks by the way wish we could have a evo blowout haha..

[Tucker01]

I notice in the instructions for the original Rush, HPI recommend purple rear and white front springs for 'experienced drivers'. The white springs aren't even listed as an option for the Rush Evo, which is odd, but I'll be ordering a set soon.

We've just fitted new rear wheels (stripped hex on the originals) with Pro-Line Gladiators2's. Wow...huge improvement. The vastly superior foams really do help to reduce the rear end bottoming out. Also the new wheels are a very snug fit on the ally clamp hex adapters, so hex stripping should now be a thing of the past.

We're also thinking of fiiting some ally bits, namely the front and rear shock tower (to reduce these parts flexing for better suspension action), and the front and rear suspension arm mounts (the rears flex enough in some conditions to allow the CVD's to come out of the diff drive cups).

[Logan100]

Hmm news to me you'll have to list the part # on those springs. Are you still running the stock front ribs? good tire but I'd like to pick up a pair of losi razor pins. I had the same problem with my rear rims aswell, alum hex drives were a quick fix, stock plastic ones were like rounded lol.

I have the carbon fiber towers and upper deck on mine and think that all three are a must, and the alum brace but I know you run that allready. I noticed visable improvements in riggidity plus they look hot. I have a 6V hump pack in my truck but what I'd like to try is a flat pack and mount it with zip ties right under the rec. With the fiber upper deck you mount the rec. on top (buy the way if you do go with the upper deck make sure you also get the hpi or whosever rec cover. Get a large one and youll have room to hide the fail safe under there aswell. Atleast thats what i done.) and the chassis is hollow, with this set up you would first be able lose the stock battery houseing but you also move a heck of alotta weight to the middle of the chassis, good or bad remains to be known. What do you think??

Along with the alum a-arms I've also got front bulkheads, c-hubs and rear suspension mounts and knuckle's, all from GPM racing. Let me know if you want part #'s

L8R

[Tucker01]

Yes we're still running the stock front tyres Logan. When they wear we'll stick some Pro-lines on.

We're probably going to go for the GPM ally shock towers (over here in the UK they are marketed by Fastrax), and the carbon fibre ones are a bit brittle for just bashing around I think. We have a 6V hump pack on order (finally), and I've stuck a pair of Hitec 325HB servo's in. Not that much better than the stock servos, but they are ballraced and I had them lying around spare.

With regards to moving the Rx pack, we thought of that too, but a search of the RC10GT forums put us off the idea. Most people who had tried it said it negatively affected handling.

You'll have to let us know how you get on with the ally hop-ups, particularly crash survivability. Post some pics when you're done too!

Edit: Almost forgot, here's a link to the springs on Tower Hobbies. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=6783&FVPROFIL=++)

[Radio Acer]

crash survivability?!? all those carbon fiber and aluminum parts made his truck 10x stronger (personal experience, lol).
i have a tip if any one is looking for aluminum front shocks. I couldn't find any direct fit threaded shocks. So I bought the powerline aluminum front shocks for the RS4 MT, they fit perfectly. but depeneding on the shock position, you might want to experiment with the upper shock mounting screw and some washers. becuase those shocks are a little wider. I'll post some pics after I'm done the rebuild.

If anyone deicdes to buy a new and different servo saver (which I highly reccomend, I have gone through two stock ones with less than a gallon through the car.) DON'T buy the kimbrough servo savers. they are the correct length, but have some really freaky height wich totally screws up installation. I had to grind away on the saver and upper deck. I would reccomend buy and ofna servo saver and see how that goes.

[Tucker01]

Well, cheers for that Radio Acer. Guess what? I was just about to order a Kimbrough Servo Saver!

As to your comments about crash survivability, the carbon shock towers (especially the rear) and upper deck are known to break in a heavy crash (carbon fibre being way more brittle than plastic), and the ally bits may either bend beyond repair, or transmit the shock elsewhere on the car causing damage to another part (aluminium being way less forgiving than plastic).

Turnbuckles and hingepins aside, the Rush has a very good reputation for the strength and durability of it's suspension parts. As an added bonus they are cheap to replace should they ever break. I'd only consider the ally hop up arms if they really do offer any improvement over the stock items.

[Radio Acer]

They offer reliability ;)

You can find the ofna servo savers here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=ofna+servo+saver+heavy+duty&FVPROFIL=++&search=Go) just in case you were looking for them

[Tucker01]

Thanks for the link Acer, I'll be putting in a Tower order soon. It's a real pain that HPI have suspended their parts sales from Tower to the UK though!

[clodkiller]

My Setup
O.S .15 cv-r
110oz metal bb servo (airtroncis) i think
5 cell hump (rear)
Aluminum Rear brace
Graph uper deck
Hot Boddies Aluminum Threded shocks (t-maxx) all around
losi tires
titanium turnbuckles
Nitro Rs4 dif gears
A.E tuned pipe
Hpi Header
Fiber Break
HD middle Gear


Every thing works perfect i use the stock A-arms and shock towers
Only things I have broken in 2 yrs and 3months is 1 suspension arm, 1 gear diff , 1 mid gear, and stearing servro.
A-arm and servo broke in one crash into the back tire of my dads f-350 dually.

I dont belive in the alluminum suspension parts or towers the stock towers work fine. My truck takes massive amonts of abuse. Especialys If i decide to drive on the street that day. It will tracktion roll at 40 and cart-wheel down the road and nothing breaks.
just about anything else for the truck is a waste of your money.
And the A-arms a $8 for a tree of them if you do break them.

If you lose your dog bones its because have your shocks so when the they re bound they hyper extend and pop out move the A-arm schck mount to the one closest to the wheel.

HB Shocks are well worth the money $20 a pair. alluminum (blue or purple) threaded.
They fit perfect in the rear but the front springs need to have 1 or 2 loops cut out I run silver t-maxx shocks in the rear 1/3 the way compressed

[Tucker01]

Give us some pics then Clodkiller, sounds good.

Do the hotbodies shocks accpet the HPI springs or are they different internal diameters?

[clodkiller]

They Work But rub a little bit

I can only take pics with my poopie web cam with like 100x100 res so ill get all close ups if i can

[clodkiller]

How Do you post pics i dont get it

i click inset image then what

[Radio Acer]

go under the post reply box and there's another one that says "additional options" and the under "Attach Files" click "manage attachments" then click browse and find your pic.

If you're using the T-maxx shocks, switch to losi springs, they fit much better, i run silver in the back and they are a little compressed and then red in the front, fully extended.
i think i'll just give up arguing over the aluminum, even though i must say it's worth the money, because the stock plastic pieces just flex too much, resulting in lost drive shafts, and soft mushy handling (on the track atleast).

Now if HPI only came out with composite graphite peices :rolleyes: (i wish)

[clodkiller]

engine/header

Hope it works :(

[clodkiller]

more

[clodkiller]

....

[clodkiller]

.....

[clodkiller]

heres more

[clodkiller]

heres my first body (road body)

[clodkiller]

thats one part of the body thats missing, The spoiler bolts/nuts ripped out and cracked the rear end of the body and the top of the wind shield right were it curves has a huge hole worn throug it.

[Logan100]

Hey thx tucker Ill stick with the hump pack. Makes total sense and thats what I thought might happen. Gotta agree with acer on the alum parts and I know that if you put a good mill in there your set, Weight shouldnt be a problem. Its funny though because by christmas ill have the motor(I think im gonna pick up a Sirio SE12S Adam Drake $300 cdn. header and pipe not decided yet) new flywheel, clutch, bell, the whole shebang also my next pick-up is a JR XS3 pro transmitter, apparently they have a good reputation with ther rec. and servos. I cant remember what the specs are on the servos (torque and speed) but there more than good enough and my LHS guy is gonna hook me up with a smokin deal.(only because between my Evo and Savage, he makes a killing off me LOL, its cool though its a two way street.) But after that all Ill need is a chassis and screw set and Ill have another Rush.
Man do I wish that I had known about T-maxx shocks worked, and I race/bash with a guy that has one. I have HPI and there the same as plastic shock other than alum bodys and HPI by no means gives their stuff away.
Are they worth it??? Im thinkin....

L8R

[Tucker01]

I've just finished knocking up a printable Acrobat format set up sheet for the Rush. Anyone want one then let me know.

OK, now available for download:

Rush Set Up Sheet (http://www.rc-forums.co.uk/HPI Nitro Rush Printable Set Up Sheet.pdf)

[clodkiller]

I would say there worth it. There smooth, threaded, and alluminium for $20 a pair what more could u ask for.

just for the front u need a softer spring set

[Radio Acer]

Logan- i got the original XS3 (not the silver "pro" version) and i love it to death. It has never failed, glitched, etc. and the servos that come with it are real good quality. As for the motor, i don't think you need something with that much crazy power, I run the O.S. .15 CV-X, and pulls well enough for me. Although i do have a .12R SS motor in my other Rush and I like it a bit more. But that's up to you of course.

The T-maxx shocks work fine in the rear, but up front they don't allow full travel. I switched to the powerline shocks up front because having the T-maxx shocks really hinders handling and gives the truck a larger turing radius because they don't allow full shock travel.

As for the weight issue on aluminum, you only ad a couple of grams (if any really) to the weight. Aluminum is really not heavy at all.

[Logan100]

Hey tucker thats cool, I never thought to write down my set-ups but this will help. If theres one for the savage tell me where I can find it. You know its wierd the race set-up sheet shows stock plastic parts. lol..
Acer I agree with you, the alum. (or allyminium right tucker lol) should not add that much weight at all and as for too much power in the Sirio... HA no such thing. Naw just jokes still up in the air on what mill Ill end up with. What about Integy rear res. T-maxx shocks.. overkill? Anyways it hot outside so Im going to break something.

L8R

[clodkiller]

logan are u gonna race your truck?
and just wondering why u choose the drake .12 sirio
I guess it really depends on how often or how serious u wana get about racing of you do race. 300 beans is alot o cash for a engine. when you can get something that is nearly $100 less with similar prefomace?

Like Radio acer said the 12r ss (1 hp ) is a damn good engine
Or even the new .12xs that has alot more power
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?
&I=LXFAW3&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJZ7&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGL8&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDUH5&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEDA4&P=7

just to name a few that save u $100

[Radio Acer]

Actually, that Sirio Adam Drake edition is 'only' $190. But that's quite bit for a .12 size motor (Italian engines seem a wee bit overpriced). But you should check ou the '05 Fantom line of engines. They got 1.4hp, a turbo plug, and they're only $140. Take a look at them at www.fantomracing.com
Or you could always go with O.S. Darn reliable those engines are. Or as clodkiller pointed out, the Orion line of engines are good too.

[clodkiller]

OS is good stuff from what I hear and my own experience with my .15 cv-r

The first link was supposed to be the hpi .12xs
1.35hp ,rear exhaust

[clodkiller]

OS is good stuff from what I hear and my own experience with my .15 cv-r

The first link was supposed to be the hpi .12r xs

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFAW3&P=7

[Tucker01]

I'd be very reluctant to base my engine choice on claimed hp (measured BHP would be more accurate, but they don't publish that). I'd suggest looking around the various RC10GT forums to see what those guys race with, and to get opinions on engines they have tried.

[Radio Acer]

true, but the hp ratings can't be too far off from each other. Everyone at my track uses either O.S. engines or Fantom engines. but we're just a real small club, so the motors might be a little different at some of the other larger tracks. But the Fantoms are only the '03 versions, so i don't know about these new ones and how they perform.

[Tucker01]

true, but the hp ratings can't be too far off from each other.

Why? With no industry standard measurement criteria, and no readily accessible independant test data, manufacturers can make it up as they go along. What's to stop them? Who's going to argue (except me!).

The real world car market is full of false horsepower claims (from aftermarket add-ons I hasten to add), yet despite this being provable, the ridiculous claims still continue, mainly because the buying public like high horsepower figures!

RB Concepts don't publish their engine power figures, but are widely regarded as being some of the quickest engines out there. Maybe they don't publish their figures because they are real measured figures, and lower than other manufacturers claims?

I've heard plenty of good things about the new CV-R OS engines, so I'll be getting one for my sons Rush when his stock engine has died.

[clodkiller]

OS defionatly makes an amazing product.
The power band on my cv-r 15 is crazy I run it with an hpi header and A.E fat tuned pipe for tourqe. I hits power band with stock gearing about 2 sec befor the motor tops out and it will usualy wheele if I dont let off the gas.(OnRoad)

[Logan100]

Hey whats up fellas?? Havent had a chance to get on and shoot the **** lately.
Found out on monday that im going to be a dad for the first time. Pretty excited!!and scared lol. Naw im 27 and weve been ready for awhile, but other than that my motor selection is still up in the air, I was looking at the Sirio and baseing it on a review I read that claimed "more power than most pro's can handle" but realistically I dont have a clue what Ill end up with. I found the Sirio for $245 canadian which is peanuts.
I do plan to race my rush and thats why its a heavy investment. I raced a few times last year and the only reason I was reaspectable was because I can drive fairly well especially considering the servos suck. Does anybody have the ball diff in their rush??
I pulled mine out to rebuild it and forgot what way its supposed to be installed. If you do, tell me what wheel the head of the adjustment screw faces (from looking at the back to the front of the truck does it face the left rear tire or the right tire.) Mine is facing the right rear but it keeps backing off and slipping yet my hobby guy insists that it is right. I cannot remember and before I go back into the tranny I,d like to know for sure. Anyways all my alum is stuck in customs and being in Canada I am desperately running out of test time before the snow falls and I cant get any good speed running in my basement lol. Great for drifting though lol (concrete floors)
L8R guys

[Radio Acer]

I had a ball diff and it kept on slipping after each run, but after about 15 or so runs it finally settled in. After every run tighten it down as much as possible (but don't strip anything) and do that until it stops loosening and then you can start to fnd the ideal setting. But I had a poblem with the ball because the hubs have big indents in them from where they meet the drive shafts. This happened only after like 25 tanks of gas and I can't find replacements anywhere. I would have to buy a whole new diff for $40 bucks which is pointless. I even asked HPI on their forums if they sell just the hubs, but i never got a reply so I think i'm just going to stuff the stock diff with some heavy grease :D

[clodkiller]

I think The stock diff works perfect.

Pack the diff really good with supper thick grease i used car grease and it was back to normal after about 10 runs

[Tucker01]

The stock diff with the hardened diff gears, shimed as necessary, and with one of the diff adjustemnt springs in works a treat. Some LSD action, obvioulsy not as smooth as a ball diff, but way way less maintainance!

[Radio Acer]

So you're saying the stock diff works fine? All i gotta get is the cast gears and the diff adjustment springs? sounds cool :cool:

[Logan100]

Yeah after having to pull my truck apart 3 times Ive finally got the ball diff working great...again. My aluminium parts are in just gotta go pick them up, so Ill let you guys know how it is. Hit my buddy's T-Maxx at full speed, He had just shifted into second gear. It looked so bad all I saw was dollar signs lol. I only popped a turnbuckle off and a shock screw stripped out of plastic arm. GOT LUCKY.
L8R

[board paul]

my mate thought he would make his rush a little different for a while.
what do u think?
http://www.ktmodels.com/uploads/scouse car 001.jpg

[board paul]

http://www.ktmodels.com/uploads/scouse car 002.jpg
http://www.ktmodels.com/uploads/scouse car 003.jpg

[Tucker01]

I think those rear tyres are huge!

Nice body idea though!

Updated pics of our Rush Evo.

http://pic13.picturetrail.com/VOL451/2326927/4570344/74123325.jpg

http://pic13.picturetrail.com/VOL451/2326927/4570344/74123327.jpg

[AsTheRushComes]

Hey all.

I have a Rush with a Novarossi CX12 Rotary (originally the .15FE Nitro Star) and am still running the stock exhaust manifold. Problem is it creates too much back pressure and the engine bogs down when I open the throttle. Runs great at about 1/4 throttle, until I punch it. So I went to Superior to pick up a new manifold and they try selling me a stock EVO manifold, not even looking at the engine I am running (regardless I'm disgusted, I bought the engine from them and they cant sell a compatible manifold). Here's the issue -

1. Its plastic.
2. The inlet on the EVO header is smaller than the inlet on the .15FE Rush header.

I'm lacking the power and the high-end this engine can put out. So what would be a good recomendation for a replacement manifold? Any other performance tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm exchanging the EVO manfold for another tomorrow. http://home.earthlink.net/~joshpowelson/images/icons/icon_scratchead.gif

[AsTheRushComes]

OMG! I can't believe this happened to my Rush tonight. Fired it right up with a fresh tank and my new hpi racing clutch sprung and exploded my clutch bell and destroyed a new spur gear. I can't believe this, this clutch was supposed to be rugged enough to handle a few runs and it kills while idle. Is there any other upgrade options other than the HPI racing clutch? For some reason I don't trust the hpi clutch. :::::ATRC

I know its been a while since I replied, but the cause was a bent chassis (front-end). Sent it in for the replacement heavy duty chassis. Lets hope this one lasts a few runs.