HPI Nitro Rush Forum

[Tucker01]

AsTheRushComes the stock Rush Evo manifold is aluminium not plastic (are you sure they showed you the right part?).

[Radio Acer]

Astherushcomes- you can use a dynamite header, associated RC10GT Header, HPI Header, and there are endless possibilities but those are the most popular choices

[Logan100]

what's up fellas been awhile hey tucker you said that you replaced the pin that holds the hub inplace with a allen bolt or something like that, if i remember right(to lazy to go back and read) but could you give me the size of bolt and nut set-up you went with. thx about all the alum I added, I couldnt be more happy,money well spent.. way more rigid and way less chassis flex but two things I had to file the rear knuckles to get them to fit in the rear arms(nice job GPM) and I think that with the added rigidity' I want to go to a super soft tire compound and hard foams, I've noticed some pretty bad sidewall role in hard corners. Extra weight??? if there is any it's very minimal less than 4grams.(should have weighed but forgot.) anyways good to see you guys are still around.
P.S. check this I broke my savage's crankcase in two and shatterd the engine mount in like 5 pieces lol now that take's skill lol damn. Oh well time for a Picco 26.
l8r

[Tucker01]

Logan I just used a nut and bolt I had in my RC spares box, think it was M2.5.

[Logan100]

astherushcomes if you havent allready, pick up a racing clutch. And make sure that after you break that motor in take your clutch apart and scuff the inside of your bell with 150 grit sand paper(softly doesnt take much) and hit the out or top of your clutch shoe's/pad's with 250 grit(again softly) all you need is to take the shine away.
Your clutch should look dull. If you do this once and awhile allready than forget about the above if not.. you'll get way better hook-up and take more advantage of your new motor's torque. Also what about trying to mill out your header's intake a little bit and get this add a second nipple to your pipe and run the second pressure line back to the other side of the tank??? might work to drop back pressure inside your pipe, lol, might work... probly want to try with stock pipe first. anyways just a thought.
Hey thx tucker ill get something.

[Tucker01]

OK, my new site is up (although unfinished), let us know what you think guys.

Inferno and Rush Resource (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/geoffbrownis/)

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Hey guys, I'm new to the boards.... I have had a HPI Nitro Rush for more than a year now, but have only run it 3 times.... My story is similar to that of "RC Rocks" from 11:08AM 10/29/2002 (top of page 5).... I got my Rush used from my cousin for cheap, he already had one, and this one belonged to the father of his girlfriend. Anyways, I got it on a family outing, and used it for 2 days... Then went to use it in a parking lot on the way home from the outing, and IT happened.... The throttle linkage poped off the servo, and the throttle got stuck at WOT.... it was top speed into a solid concrete curb 9 inches tall.... The chassis was REALLY bent badly, and the engine stopped immediatly upon impact... I bought a new chassis from a hobby shop a few days after that.. ( I think it is still the 2mm,)... and I still have the old bent chassis... is HPI still doing the chassis swap to the 2.5mm for free??

Anyways, after getting the chassis from the hobby shop, it ended up that I needed an engine mount, as that was bent too, so I got that... put everything together, and it still didn't run right... I got it to start a few times, but the engine was revving itself, and spitting out red hot fuel all over... For christmas this year, I finally asked for a new engine, and told my parents to ask my cousin which one to get, because he is pretty into the RC thing... After looking at engines online, I was going to get a .18, and told my mom not to worry about the engine if she hadn't gotten it yet, but she already did. My cousin told her that the engine was RC10GT or something like that.. Is this correct, and if it is, is this the stock Rush engine, and how large is it? (.12, .15?)

Is there a place that sells ONLY RUSH parts on the net? I have looked at some websites, and for me, it was pretty difficult to tell what would and wouldn't work for the Rush, and I didn't see many places that separates the parts by application.

After I get my new engine, the first things I need to get is a new fuel tank and fuel lines, cause there was some nitro left in there when I put it away for a year, and now it is like a sledge at the bottom of the tank. After that, I am going to get new Servo's, to be sure that there are no accidents like last time with the linkages poping off. Can anyone recommed good servo's for me? I just use the truck for recreation... I don't race or anything like that. I just was something that had good perfomance, and isn't going to easily break on me...

Lastly, I was reading through this thread, and only got to page 6... I saw that a bunch of you jump your rushs... I have the perfect ramp for it, my brothers skateboard/inline skate plastic launch ramp. Is there any company that has a good strong metal roll cage for the rush?

EDIT: I am at work right now, and check this page every few days, but if you want, you can also email me at: ZachG@speed-Society.com

[Tucker01]

Hey E_D, welcome to the forum.

Lol, yup my first nitro (Kyosho Sandmaster) had a close encounter with the kerb! It's still in bits in a box in the loft!

First off, get yourself a manual for your car, you can download one from my site (link above). All the part numbers there are listed, you can then put them into the Tower Hobbies (http://www.towerhobbies.com) website to see the part (even if you don't order it from there it's a great site).

If your mum got an engine for an RC10GT it won't fit, the crankshaft will be too short. You need a standard length crankshaft. Your mum should be able to return it for a full refund or swop if it is wrong.

If you do need another engine, get either the HPI T15 of the O.S. 12CV-R/X. the O.S. will be more powerful (even though a smaller engine) but is more expensive too). The T15 will straight in, the O.S. will need engine mounts (A863 $3.89).

HPI should replace your chassis FOC if you're in the US.

Before you next run your car get yourself a failsafe (the Ofna Micro failsafe fits in the radio box nicely) and a throttle return spring (do a search on the forums for TRS). This will prevent your car running away in the event of almost any problem.

For a steering servo I'd recommend the Hitec 625MG, and for throttle the Hitec 925MG. The 925MG makes setting up the TRS so easy as when the servo is off you can turn the arm with just a very light spring (unlike normal servos which are still quite hard to turn when off).

As long as you run with the body on, and keep away from kerbs/tress/hard objects you don't need a roll cage, which is probably why I've never seen one for the Rush.

[Tucker01]

Hey E_D, welcome to the forum.

Lol, yup my first nitro (Kyosho Sandmaster) had a close encounter with the kerb! It's still in bits in a box in the loft!

First off, get yourself a manual for your car, you can download one from my site (link above). All the part numbers there are listed, you can then put them into the Tower Hobbies (http://www.towerhobbies.com) website to see the part (even if you don't order it from there it's a great site).

If your mum got an engine for an RC10GT it won't fit, the crankshaft will be too short. You need a standard length crankshaft. Your mum should be able to return it for a full refund or swop if it is wrong.

If you do need another engine, get either the HPI T15 of the O.S. 12CV-R/X. the O.S. will be more powerful (even though a smaller engine) but is more expensive too). The T15 will straight in, the O.S. will need engine mounts (A863 $3.89).

HPI should replace your chassis FOC if you're in the US.

Before you next run your car get yourself a failsafe (the Ofna Micro failsafe fits in the radio box nicely) and a throttle return spring (do a search on the forums for TRS). This will prevent your car running away in the event of almost any problem.

For a steering servo I'd recommend the Hitec 625MG, and for throttle the Hitec 925MG. The 925MG makes setting up the TRS so easy as when the servo is off you can turn the arm with just a very light spring (unlike normal servos which are still quite hard to turn when off).

As long as you run with the body on, and keep away from kerbs/tress/hard objects you don't need a roll cage, which is probably why I've never seen one for the Rush.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Well, it ended up that my mom didn't have a chance to get the engine for me, so she gave me $150 instead.... Right now, I have about $250 with which to get an engine. I am really not too sure what I am going to get. I want to get something that is easy to tune, and this isn't ungodly expensive. I am not going to get the .18... The truck will not be raced or anything... just used for fun, and probably jumping off of a ramp my brother has. When I was looking at engines on HPI webpage, It appeared that the .15SS and the .12 motors are all in the same price range. I am really just looking for something easy to use, and a little better than the stock engine. I don't have a body for the truck either, so I will have to pick one of those up as well.... I will post some pics when I get home if I can find them... ( I am at work right now).

[jimbonj]

I know you said you didn't want a .18, but this would be a real good engine for the Rush:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP7&P=ML

[Ethereal_Dragon]

I was thinking of not going with the .18 cause it was the most expensive of the bunch on the HPI webpage... but THAT one, is ALOT less... less than HALF of the HPI one... does anyone have any feedback on the O.S. .18 CV-RX w/11J Rotary Carb ??

How do they stack up against an HPI engine....
- speed
- power
- reliability

Will it drop right in to the Rush, or am I going to have to be a master metal craftsman? (the page listed some trucks it would fit, but I didn't see the Rush among them)...
If it does fit into the Rush, what other drivetrain components will have to be changed for this to fit.

If it fits, I guess it might be a good deal... looks like it comes ready to run, with air filter, and glow plug.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

I took a short break at work, and had time to check out the tower hobbies webpage more than I have previously... I started a wish list with the servos suggested in a previous post, and also put on a Nitro Star .15SS (these prices are like $100 less than the HPI webpage)...

Here's my next question.... as you could probably tell... I am an RC NewB... can anyone recommend any good references for me to check out to learn more..... I am wondering what type of spur gears and how many teeth would be optimal for different setup's... high speed, high acceleration, and what about the rest of the drivetrain, what can I replace.....

Sorry for buggin you guys with NewB questions. ( I am slowly reading all 41 of the pages in this thread.... on like #13 right now.).

[Joe69]

Hi,

I'm new to the world of Nitro cars and have recently purchased a HPI nitro rush evo but ma having a few problems if anyone can help.
I've run the engine as per instructions, however I'm now at the stage where I'm ready to take it out for a full run, however I'm having problems with the needle valve settings. When I star the car, it runs fine but accelrates by itself at quite a speed, I can adjust the valves to reduce the the amount of fuel but it then goes t slow and cuts out.
I've reset it all to the base settings but just can't seem to get it right.

Any ideas tips helpppp

[Radio Acer]

Joe-trim your transmitter so that the carb isn't as open durng idle and your truck should be fine. You might have to adjust the idle stop screw (see your manual on the engine tuing page for reference)

E_D-The .18 O.S. willl blow away any HPI engine in every one of those categories. You'll be pulling wheelies down your street 24/7. You wil only need the $4 engine mounts that were listed by Tucker01.
As for gear ratios, There are no different spur gears for the Rush. But if you still have the stock 13T Clutch bell then you might want to move up to a 14T or 15T clutch bell for more speed (and less acceleration, you won't miss it, trust me).
Tucker01 gave the best suggestions and explanations for everything else.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

ok, well, after I got home from work today, I actually had a little bit of time to check out my Rush.... It isn't going to be NEARLY as easy to fix as I had previously thought.... I took the shocks off, and noticed that the rear shocks are leaking fluid, and are different lengths. I also took off the differential, and it is leaking fluid also. Also, the input shaft that has a large plastic gear, and the brake is slightly bent, and wobbles when I turn it. Also, it sounds like there is some sort of sand, dirt, or dust inside the differential, cause I can hear a grinding when I turn it. I think the rear A-arms are incorrect, as it looks like they are exactly matching, either both right or left side... I noticed this after I noticed that one of the rear wheels had a good 1/2" more travel than the other.

I am trying to figure out what is stock on this truck, and what isn't.... It is using a Futaba FP-R122JE Reciever, a Hitec HS-303 Servo for the throttle, and a Hitec HS-303MG as the steering servo. The header looks to be stock, but I think that the pipe isn't, but I am not sure what type it is. Also, on the old (bent) chassis, there was a CVD sticker, but I am not too sure exactly which part this would be. When I got my new chassis, it IS the newer thicker chassis, so hopefully it won't bend as much. Should I try to still send in the old bent chassis to get another new one as a back up?? Also, should I send in the .15 FE that is shot for a .15SS under the engine exchange, or would it be better to just buy the .15SS from a hobby shop? I also have to buy a new fuel tank, and fuel lines...


Here are some pics of my Rush.... 3 old pics, 1 new pic.

Here, you can see the damage done to the chassis as a whole...
http://www.speed-society.com/ethereal-dragon/RC%20Car/OLD_CHASSIS_1.JPG

The front end was SEVERLY messed up in the crash, and totally stripped the servo.
http://www.speed-society.com/ethereal-dragon/RC%20Car/OLD_CHASSIS_2.JPG

Here, you can see the extreme curvature at the rear of the chassis as a result of the crash
http://www.speed-society.com/ethereal-dragon/RC%20Car/OLD_CHASSIS_3.JPG

This is the most recent pic I have of the Rush after I got the new chassis, and stupidly transplanted everything to it thinking that the crash had only effected the chassis..... DOH!
http://www.speed-society.com/ethereal-dragon/RC%20Car/REBUILT_CAR.JPG

[RC10tee3]

that chassis is so messed up its not even funny , that front part is suspose to be flat and then have one part kicked up ,,,i would take it all apart and replace that chassis with the new one and send that in and get the other one for free and i would buy an O.S. .18 from towerhobbies before id the 15ss

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Yes, the chassis was already replaced a year ago.... but I took it apart again last night, because so much of the stuff was messed up....

Can someone look at those pics and tell me if anything on the Rush looks like it is not stock.... I was not told when I bought it what was stock and what wasn't.

[Radio Acer]

The springs are different and that pipe is not stock either. The rear tires and wheels are not stock either. That's just about all i can find.
CVDs (Constant Velocity Driveshafts) are the driveshafts, just that at the rear hub they are connected to the axle by a little pin and set screw.
Whoever crashed that truck must have launched it off the empire state building, becuase i have had some real bad crashes and never bent the chassis half a millimeter.
And get an O.S. You will be thankful you did because they are a lot easier to tune than HPI engines, and better all around.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Yeah, I forgot to mention that I got the new rear wheels and tires, cause if you look closely at the first 3 pics, the rear tires are really worn down, and the wheels were scratched to ****....

As far as the crash, that was me. The truck LITERALLY hit a 6"-8" tall concrete curb at a perfect 90* angle.... I was in a parking lot, and the throttle linkage pop-ed off of the servo, and it was stuck at wide open throttle, and steering was COMPLETELY unresponsive... It got a good 250 - 300 foot run before it smashed into the curb, so I am pretty sure that it was at top speed...

After the impact (which was pretty loud), the engine stopped immediatly after impact, and the rear wheels only rose about 1 cm above the ground, and that was it.....

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Ok guys, after going to the LHS, I found that the Hitec 925 Servo is $90, and any GPM parts would have to be "special ordered", I decieded to look elsewhere.... so far, tonight, I have won a graphite upper deck (for $15.50), and a graphite front shock tower (for $10.50)... both are new in the package, and from the same seller, so shipping will probably be under $10... Anyone know of any good websites for the Rush?? Many I have seen, are either over-priced, or don't have more than 10 parts.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

W.T.F. ... this forum is dead.... where is everyone??

I am wondering which of the following any of you would recommend.... I am going to also replace my A-arms, since I am re-doing the whole rest of the car.... Would the graphite or aluminum be better to get? I am still searching for the best deals on parts...

Does anyone know of a good hobby shop in the Chicago land area that doesn't charge an arm and a leg?

[Radio Acer]

I think someone already said it, go to tower hobbies, they guive you money off and free shipping if you sign up for something. And all you have to do is type in the part # in the search box and you will find what you're looking for. Also, the only people that stock GPM are www.hobbyetc.com They also have a good amount of other stuff for the rush. As for graphite arms for the rush; they don't exist. so get aluminum...

[Ethereal_Dragon]

I also won a Hitec HS-925MG servo New in the box for $65 shipped....

Does anyone know what length the front and rear shocks are, and what size range will fit. At the LHS, they have 2 sets of threaded shocks for $15 each.... I believe they were Duratrax or something, with yellow springs, but the guy at the LHS wasn't sure about the exact sizes that would work, and I didn't ask him to look cause they were really busy.

[Radio Acer]

just look at your manual or find it on the HPI website...I think you can use AE's shocks or the hotbodies t-maxx shocks, or if you really think it's worth it; HPI's shocks.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

I got my truck used, and didn't get the manual with it... And also, I finally finished reading all 41 pages of this thread. WHEW! Lots of information.... it's funny, because now that I have already spent some money on my Rush, I could have just bought a brand new EVO RTR for less than it will cost to get my truck running again..... cause I still have to buy:

Steering servo
Aluminum A-arms (front & rear)
Rear graphite shock tower
rear aluminum chassis brace
threaded shocks (front & rear)
fuel tank
fuel filter
fuel lines
engine
header
probably a new exhaust too
differential



Also, I saw someone mention that the stock screws are weak points in the suspension... Was this referring to the screws that hold the fron A-arms to the chassis? because mine bent BADLY in "The Accident".. Would these be the stronger replacements?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMX90&P=7

[Tucker01]

Yes, they are way stonger, we've yet to bend one of those. You can just replace the front inboard pins with the HPI 3mm x 42mm stainless steel pins bought seperately.

[Radio Acer]

yeah, those hinge pins are amazing, just have a dremel nearby. when i installed mine then some of the hinge pins were a tight fit. Just put the hinge pin into the dremel and work it back and forth in the plastic at no more than 1,000 RPM. make sure the plastic doesn't get too hot either. My suspension was a wonder after i put those in. :D

[aaandht]

I just got a OS .18 CV-RX engine for my truck and I wanted to get new gears for it. I was thinking about 16/52 or so, but what spur gear can I put on it? My LHS said they only make a 56T for it.

[Radio Acer]

your LHS is right.

[Tucker01]

The Savage spur gears fit should you feel that way inclined.

When HPI put the .18SS in the NMT they used a 15T clutchbell (originally 13T). I think it safe to say with the lighter Rush (both weight and geartrain friction) you could go up to a 16T with the stock spur.

Hope that helps.

[aaandht]

Actually, could I use it with out the slipper? I dont really do jumps....*shrugs* but I'm ordering a 16 or so tooth clutch bell

[Tucker01]

If you feel you don't need the slipper, just tighten it up until it doesn't slip (don't crank it down so much that the spring coils touch each other though, that's too tight). With is set like this is won't slip during normal usgae, but might just save the day (and your gearbox) if something goes wrong.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

I am hoping to be receiving my graphite upper chassis, and graphite shock tower (don't remember if it was a front or rear... and can't get to ebay from work) sometime this week. I am also going to order the aluminum rear chassis brace soon. Do any of you know if there is a strong replacement (aluminum or grahpite for the plastic piece that connects the rear brace to the rear shock tower? I haven't seen any and was just wondering... also, does anyone make an aluminum exhaust mount to replace the stock plastic one?

[Radio Acer]

That plastic part behind the brace doesn't need to be stronger, so there is no replacement.
The only other exhaust mount there is, is a wire that goes from the chassis to the pipe, nothing fancy there, it doesn't need to be and it's not a good idea to have aluminum there. If you bang your pipe against something, then the wire will absorb the impact and bend, therefore saving your pipe. I used to have HPI's pipe retainer wire thing, but it broke easily instead of bending. MY dad found this wierd spring clip thing in a hardware store (Home Depot, I think) and we just cut off a small paice of the wire and bent it using pliers. It took a long time but it was worth it. The wire is about half the diameter of HPI's so it bends pretty far back, farther than it will ever have to, yet it's really stiff and keep the pipe in place when it's supposed to be.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

ok for the part that the brace mounts to.. I just wasn't sure if that was replaced if it would have any effect on the ridgity of the chassis.. as for the exhaust mount, I meant that little piece of plastic that the wire attaches to... I know there is no point to getting aluminum, just wondering if anyone offers one.

[Tucker01]

Racers Edge do a nice tuned pipe mount. Purple anodised base (obviously, any other colour would upset the handling!) and thick wire with a sprung section. Works a treat.

[Logan100]

whats up fellas? well chose a motor.. I got an O.S. .12TR. it has a slide carb on it, so I have to make a linkage for it. the LHS says they have something that will work, but im still waiting on my new clutch, flywheel,bell,mounts. should be in next week or the one after. Also picked up my new transmitter (JR XS3 pro). thing is so sweet, still need to install servos and rec. man the rec is so tiny its mint. once my parts come in Ive got alot of wrenching to do, whole truck needs to come apart, well almost lol.
Also I had to pick-up titanium screws for the rear suspention mounts, seems that with the aluminum thats where the shock load transfers and its hell on steel screws. I hope that works but if not Im gonna drill and tap 2 more screws in each side, ordered tap yesterday. anyways give me 2 weeks and ill post pics with everything and i mean everything finished. Hope it will be good enough for your web site tucker.
L8

[Tucker01]

Sounds good, look forward to seeing it when you're done. You know HPI do a slide carb linkage kit, can'r remember the part no. sorry.

[MrNyceGuy42]

Hello all,
Recently got an evo and love it. question: I ran it wide open for the first time and slammed into a wall snapping the rubber collar that holds the pipe to the header and snapped a diff shaft cup in half. Can the rear shaft be replaced with cvds or is just for the front? what are some of the benefits of these and how can I sure up the rear so that I can tr to prevent breaking this shaft again. ( outside of learning to drive better)

[Tucker01]

Hi Mr. Nyce, welcome to this thread.

OK, do you mean you broke one of the cups that comes out either side of the gearbox? CVD's can be fitted to the rear of the Rush, but don't replace that part. They replace the dogdone and the wheel axle shaft.

Generally you'll find it's sound advice not to use your RC vehicle within 100 yds of anything hard. Sod's Law says if you do you'll find it, normally at 40mph. It's vitually impossible (not to mention highly impractical) to build a car to take impact such as that.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

My graphite shock tower, upper deck, and Hitech 625 servo should be arriving any day... unfortunatly, my truck is taken apart... COMPLETLY APART... I am not going to be able to put it back together for a while, because I am movin on Friday, and I am NO WHERE NEAR ready to move, such as being packed and everything...

Then, after that, I am not going to have too much money, cause I am getting Lasik eye surgery on March 11th (gotta have the good sight to drive the Rush, right? :) ) and that is $$$$... I am hoping that my tax return will cover the surgery and some of the Rush parts.... Unless I deceide to get the surgery, and new suspension and wheels for my Scion xB.

[MrNyceGuy42]

[OK, do you mean you broke one of the cups that comes out either side of the gearbox? CVD's can be fitted to the rear of the Rush, but don't replace that part. ]

Yes I broke a cup... has anyone replaced standard diff with ball diff and how sturdy was it? So a CVD goes inside of that cup right. Are these more sturdy than standard dogbones.


Oh and I am looking to maybe start a off road club for the north raleigh/triangle area if anyone is interested please let me know and maybe this spring we can get things rolling. any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I am fairly new to the hobbie but am ready to see how I stack up against others.

[Logan100]

mr nyce whats up?? I have replaced the stock diff with the ball diff and as far as sturdy, Im not sure what you mean. In my rush atleast the rear end had little to no slop (and more like no slop). the reason I changed mine was because of stripped spider gears. The ball diff works very well aslong as the head of the screw that holds it together is facing the left rear wheel and you have your slipper clutch set properly. I cant remember but I think my slipper is 5 full turns from tight or something like that. Also it wouldnt be in my top 5 things I upgraded first but definately do upgrade to MIP CVD's. Let me know if you want a part #. Also try going to RCTECH.NET to find people in your area intrested in club racing, Starting your own club/track is very expensive (trust me Im in the middle of doing so right now) I would be willing to bet that you allready have a track and clubs in North Carolina probably close to home hopefully.
Dragon what's up?? just to give you a thought, If I was you I would stop at your hitech 625. What I would do is put that 625 in my steering servo and take stock steering servo and switch it with throttle servo. Dont buy a hitech 945 servo its costly and has 185 ft lbs of torque (thats what I run in my savage and a 625 will dry steer the savage so a 945 works real good) Its total overkill for 1/10 scale stadium trucks. In my rush I run well just got JR servos and my steering servo only has 85 ish ft lbs of torque. Around what youll want. Your 625's a hell of a servo but I would be done with my servo's. Make it strong, Make it handle then Make it go like hell!!
TUCKER HELP lol if you could find that part # for that linkage conversion you would be my hero, or save me alot of messing around. THX. Hey also I found this web site called Beat Your Truck.com, has a ton of rush photo's that you could use for your site. I think thats what its called anyways.
l8

[Logan100]

mr nyce whats up?? I have replaced the stock diff with the ball diff and as far as sturdy, Im not sure what you mean. In my rush atleast the rear end had little to no slop (and more like no slop). the reason I changed mine was because of stripped spider gears. The ball diff works very well aslong as the head of the screw that holds it together is facing the left rear wheel and you have your slipper clutch set properly. I cant remember but I think my slipper is 5 full turns from tight or something like that. Also it wouldnt be in my top 5 things I upgraded first but definately do upgrade to MIP CVD's. Let me know if you want a part #. Also try going to RCTECH.NET to find people in your area intrested in club racing, Starting your own club/track is very expensive (trust me Im in the middle of doing so right now) I would be willing to bet that you allready have a track and clubs in North Carolina probably close to home hopefully.
Dragon what's up?? just to give you a thought, If I was you I would stop at your hitech 625. What I would do is put that 625 in my steering servo and take stock steering servo and switch it with throttle servo. Dont buy a hitech 945 servo its costly and has 185 ft lbs of torque (thats what I run in my savage and a 625 will dry steer the savage so a 945 works real good) Its total overkill for 1/10 scale stadium trucks. In my rush I run well just got JR servos and my steering servo only has 85 ish ft lbs of torque. Around what youll want. Your 625's a hell of a servo but I would be done with my servo's. Make it strong, Make it handle then Make it go like hell!!
TUCKER HELP lol if you could find that part # for that linkage conversion you would be my hero, or save me alot of messing around. THX. Hey also I found this web site called Beat Your Truck.com, has a ton of rush photo's that you could use for your site. I think thats what its called anyways.
l8
[OK, do you mean you broke one of the cups that comes out either side of the gearbox? CVD's can be fitted to the rear of the Rush, but don't replace that part. ]

Yes I broke a cup... has anyone replaced standard diff with ball diff and how sturdy was it? So a CVD goes inside of that cup right. Are these more sturdy than standard dogbones.


Oh and I am looking to maybe start a off road club for the north raleigh/triangle area if anyone is interested please let me know and maybe this spring we can get things rolling. any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I am fairly new to the hobbie but am ready to see how I stack up against others.

[Logan100]

mr nyce whats up?? I have replaced the stock diff with the ball diff and as far as sturdy, Im not sure what you mean. In my rush atleast the rear end had little to no slop (and more like no slop). the reason I changed mine was because of stripped spider gears. The ball diff works very well aslong as the head of the screw that holds it together is facing the left rear wheel and you have your slipper clutch set properly. I cant remember but I think my slipper is 5 full turns from tight or something like that. Also it wouldnt be in my top 5 things I upgraded first but definately do upgrade to MIP CVD's. Let me know if you want a part #. Also try going to RCTECH.NET to find people in your area intrested in club racing, Starting your own club/track is very expensive (trust me Im in the middle of doing so right now) I would be willing to bet that you allready have a track and clubs in North Carolina probably close to home hopefully.
Dragon what's up?? just to give you a thought, If I was you I would stop at your hitech 625. What I would do is put that 625 in my steering servo and take stock steering servo and switch it with throttle servo. Dont buy a hitech 945 servo its costly and has 185 ft lbs of torque (thats what I run in my savage and a 625 will dry steer the savage so a 945 works real good) Its total overkill for 1/10 scale stadium trucks. In my rush I run well just got JR servos and my steering servo only has 85 ish ft lbs of torque. Around what youll want. Your 625's a hell of a servo but I would be done with my servo's. Make it strong, Make it handle then Make it go like hell!!
TUCKER HELP lol if you could find that part # for that linkage conversion you would be my hero, or save me alot of messing around. THX. Hey also I found this web site called Beat Your Truck.com, has a ton of rush photo's that you could use for your site. I think thats what its called anyways.
l8

[Logan100]

mr nyce whats up?? I have replaced the stock diff with the ball diff and as far as sturdy, Im not sure what you mean. In my rush atleast the rear end had little to no slop (and more like no slop). the reason I changed mine was because of stripped spider gears. The ball diff works very well aslong as the head of the screw that holds it together is facing the left rear wheel and you have your slipper clutch set properly. I cant remember but I think my slipper is 5 full turns from tight or something like that. Also it wouldnt be in my top 5 things I upgraded first but definately do upgrade to MIP CVD's. Let me know if you want a part #. Also try going to RCTECH.NET to find people in your area intrested in club racing, Starting your own club/track is very expensive (trust me Im in the middle of doing so right now) I would be willing to bet that you allready have a track and clubs in North Carolina probably close to home hopefully.
Dragon what's up?? just to give you a thought, If I was you I would stop at your hitech 625. What I would do is put that 625 in my steering servo and take stock steering servo and switch it with throttle servo. Dont buy a hitech 945 servo its costly and has 185 ft lbs of torque (thats what I run in my savage and a 625 will dry steer the savage so a 945 works real good) Its total overkill for 1/10 scale stadium trucks. In my rush I run well just got JR servos and my steering servo only has 85 ish ft lbs of torque. Around what youll want. Your 625's a hell of a servo but I would be done with my servo's. Make it strong, Make it handle then Make it go like hell!!
TUCKER HELP lol if you could find that part # for that linkage conversion you would be my hero, or save me alot of messing around. THX. Hey also I found this web site called Beat Your Truck.com, has a ton of rush photo's that you could use for your site. I think thats what its called anyways.
l8

[Tucker01]

A889 Slide Carb Linkage Kit

I'd say a 645MG servo is way too slow for steering use, it's slower than a standard servo even.

Thought I'd found all the pics on Beat Your Truck! Hmmm, have to take another look.

[MrNyceGuy42]

Here is a pic of my new Evo

[MrNyceGuy42]

And without the body

[MrNyceGuy42]

I hope to have some new turnbuckles and shock springs by the end of the week. I would love to see some other rushes.

[MrNyceGuy42]

By the way My steering makes a clicking noise when I turn .... is this the servo that is stripped or the servo saver? Should I replace the stock witha MG and which model would you recommend for a backyard basher / newbie racer?

[Tucker01]

For a budget steering servo you can't go wrong with a Hitec 625MG, just make sure and take it apart and seal it up with some kind of sealant, the cases aren't dust/water resistant. Great torgue for a ST (people even use them on 1/8th buggies) and plenty of speed too.

Couple it with a Kimbrough Gas Truck Servo Saver (the spring in the stock servo saver is too weak, you won't get the full benefit of the servo) and you'll be laughing.

[MrNyceGuy42]

Thanks ... I found the broken gear in the stock servo so I am off tomorrow to buy the things I need... it amazes me that HPI put such a sub par servo . the gears look like they are garbage. Anyway it gives me an excuse to spend some money. Msaybe I'll get some turnbuckles too while I have the front end taken apart. thats if it gives above freezing this weekend.

[Tucker01]

Rush Evo 18SS, is this what's coming next?

Rush Evo 18SS (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/geoffbrownis/)

[himark]

Is the Rush a good beginner truck? I want to get into RC but I dont want an electric because charging a battery for 4 hours just so you can run it for 6 minutes seems retarded to me. This looks like a nice truck and I want to get a nitro truck to bash with.

[aaandht]

Rush was my first RC truck. Not too fast, but still a decent speed. I had the one with the 15FE, was really easy to tune since it only had 1 needle. Comes assembled and has a radio. Though if you want 4WD get an MT2, but it is a little more expensive...

[Tucker01]

The Rush Evo has a far better engine and a 2-needle carb, it flies.

However, the Rush and Rush Evo do have a few niggly problems that you need to be aware of. Check my site for further details.

Rush Resource (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/geoffbrownis/)

[Radio Acer]

just a pointer, nothing against the rush, it is an amazing begginer truck, and it was my first nitro truck, but you should start with electric cars. First, stock cars can run for over fifteen minutes, not six. Second, it takes from half an hour to an hour to charge a battery if you have a decent charger. Third, electric cars are much simpler than nitro cars, they require half the mantainence and knowledge, just my two cents though...

[AsTheRushComes]

http://www.extremevelocity.net/f4iracing/f4i_hpi/images/rushchassis.jpg

Anyone know exactly what bell crank steering setup he has here?

I cant stand the stock steering assembly on my rush, just upgraded to MG Hitech servo, and OFNA servo saver so its time to complete the front end. I need something compatible with the graphite upper deck.

[Radio Acer]

I'm not 100% sure, but i think the RC10GT Bellcrank system works with the Rush, and it works only with the graphite upper deck, but i don't know exactly what he has pictured there. You also might need shorter turnbuckles if you make the conversion.

[AsTheRushComes]

How bout this, will it work?

CLICK HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG86&P=7)

[AsTheRushComes]

looks very similar.

[Radio Acer]

How bout this, will it work?

CLICK HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG86&P=7)

I have no idea. If you want aluminum then look for an aluminum hop-up designed for the RC10GT. You could try this (http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=293) but i would try something from tower first, since you can return items, no questions asked, no extra fees.

[AsTheRushComes]

trying to stick with the purple anodized if I can. Found this site though, sure you've seen it before since they are about the only site with nice rush hop-ups.

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/fast_hpirush.htm

Anyone have comments on the HPI NITRO RUSH STEEL BRAKE DISC WITH GRAPHITE PAD? Much appreciated.

[Radio Acer]

You might have noticed, but those aluminum parts are from GPM Racing. If you live in the UK, i would stick to ordering them from that site. But if you live in the USA then you might want to visit www.hobbyetc.com they're the only distributors of GPM in the USA (that i know of). As for the brake, i've never used it before, but the steel should obviously hold up. But i'm worried about the graphite pads. They might wear out quickly if you use the brake a lot. I would stick to the Fiber brake disk. When it begins to wear out, just put a washer in between the screw head and the steel brake pad and you'll have some nice stopping power with that, and your brake disk will last much longer. I've used that trick and i haven't even switched my brake disk out yet. (I still use the original plastic one :rolleyes: )

[AsTheRushComes]

Current status of my Nitro Rush. Please recommend any options or upgrades you feel fit.
I will post more images as things progress.

http://home.earthlink.net/~joshpowelson/images/AsTheRushComes.jpg

[azizhousecallz]

I just order my rush should be here in a few days.
i would love some feed back on some simply good mods i should start out with. Any problems i should look out for? :o

[xtreamrush]

First hop-up to buy is the titanium turnbuckle set. Next is the graphite upper deck( A majior weight saver). I dont suggest the graphite shock towers (atleast the rear) because they WILL break. This truck is heveier than any other stadium truck so they will have more stress exposed to them. I have gone through 3 shock towers. They are nice to save weight but they are more likely to break than the plastic parts. there is a rear brace that is metal but it really is not needed for the stock engine. Now what problems to look for. Well i went through 3 - 4 idler gears so its a good idea just to have spare Idler and Diff gear. And watch your slipper clutch carefully. the rush will burn those pads very quick. Ive owned my rush for about 2 1/2 + years. I now made it a wheely master by putting a Force .26 from my 1/8 scale buggy.

Any other questions?

[xtreamrush]

Now i have a question. How do you load a pic :confused: ?

[xtreamrush]

Never mind about the photo. AOL SUCKS!

[Radio Acer]

A note on the graphite shock towers. I've raced my Rush pretty hard it has done some pretty scary stunts at high speed, but i have never ever broken a graphite shock tower. And load up the tranny (and diff) with grease, HPI doesn't do a good job of it. Also, i would check all the screws on or around the engine that thread into metal and put threadlock on them. HPI didn't do that for me either and i found out the hard way when i lost a screw and the pilot shaft worked loose. As for the upgrades titanium turnbuckles and get a heavy duty slipper clutch. I wouldn't buy the graphite upper deck right off because it doesn't do great wonders, while the stock one still protects your receiver.

[azizhousecallz]

Ok got a new rush two weeks old.
I just put in a racing clutch, new engine mounts, (the 5 dollar ones),
a 15 tooth bell, the stronger brace (purple looks great and you can feel the difference.) I also had to chg the dif guts. they burned up. still using stock dif guts. super air filter and i have a stage two carb. my question is:
were is the extra power?
am i not tuning it properly or do i need to add something else.
i have a better exhaust on the way and to be truthful it seems slower now.
i have adjusted carb settings, and chked mesh as well as batteries. just not getting any signs of power increase. im not looking for it to shoot to the stars but i was hoping for some more power to the wheels. i set my clutch to the two middle holes or second holes. any suggestions? :D

great truck buy the way!

[AsTheRushComes]

So where is it? :)

[azizhousecallz]

[QUOTE]

i have not taken pictures yet! but they are coming! working on a new body! airbrushing takes time

[azizhousecallz]

this rush may be a basher but damn! the stock parts on this thing suck ass!

[azizhousecallz]

this rush may be a basher but damn! the stock parts on this thing suck ass! just running it in the park today a\on a dirt track and the steering servo went. not to mention the fact that i have had to change the rear dif twice in three weeks. the engine is great fires up and runs non stop. but damn if your going to make a RTR truck next time give me a choice for a better RTR with all the upgrades.... bastards!

[azizhousecallz]

http://www.geocities.com/azizhousecallz/rc2.jpg http://www.geocities.com/azizhousecallz/rc3.jpg http://www.geocities.com/azizhousecallz/rc4.jpg

[04Mach 1]

Nice Truck! Just got my rush running again, and boy did I forget how much fun this is. So for my first post I thought I would tell you all about my truck, got MIP CVD's, HPI tuned pipe and header, Blue springs in back, racing clutch, .18 cv-rx, filter and the thing hauls ass. Hope fully I can get some pictures up tomorrow, lets see some more trucks!

[azizhousecallz]

Nice Truck! Just got my rush running again, and boy did I forget how much fun this is. So for my first post I thought I would tell you all about my truck, got MIP CVD's, HPI tuned pipe and header, Blue springs in back, racing clutch, .18 cv-rx, filter and the thing hauls ass. Hope fully I can get some pictures up tomorrow, lets see some more trucks!



not may upgrades. better shocks,air filter, racing clutch, engine mounts, and a ton of bodies. :D

[azizhousecallz]

want to get an upgrade servo. the stock servo went on my rush after a month. dont want to replace it with the stock servo. need something that can take the bashing. please help! thanx! :o

[04Mach 1]

Yeah I need 2 new servos also, both of them broke. I have heard really good things about the JR metal gear servos, they can be pretty expensive for servos though...havent decided yet. $30-$50 should get you a good servo I think. I will probably get the new servos in the next couple days....

[azizhousecallz]

Yeah I need 2 new servos also, both of them broke. I have heard really good things about the JR metal gear servos, they can be pretty expensive for servos though...havent decided yet. $30-$50 should get you a good servo I think. I will probably get the new servos in the next couple days....

thats what i have read on the boards. going to shop them on the web. maybe tower, or hobby people. good luck! :)

[04Mach 1]

Well I ended up just getting some cheapy airtronics and futaba servos just because I didn't feel like spending that much on servos, they work fine. Got some tanks through it, tuned up, runs well. Got some Proline Gladiator tires that look wicked and should grip the dirt well. Hopefully I can get some pics up soon.

[azizhousecallz]

Well I ended up just getting some cheapy airtronics and futaba servos just because I didn't feel like spending that much on servos, they work fine. Got some tanks through it, tuned up, runs well. Got some Proline Gladiator tires that look wicked and should grip the dirt well. Hopefully I can get some pics up soon.

cool! i'll be looking for those pictures. and let me know how those servos hold up. i still have not picked any up yet. :D

[04Mach 1]

Servos work fine...but I am still considering getting a better steering servo, something fast and high torque...it seems like my car turns so slow. I will probably get those titanium turnbuckles first though, see if fixing my current stock bent ones will work. Yesterday (Saturday) went to the local track and got hours of run time in, cleared some huge jumps, but my chassis is now bent like a mother in the back. I don't think thats the way its supposed to be, and its the updated chassis, so I don't know what to do. I have seen a 2mm Titanium chassis from F4i racing, but not sure...The car is in pieces right now, but as soon as I get it together I will get those pictures taken and uploaded...I should probably go buy a body...Ah..too much crap to get...not enough money

[azizhousecallz]

Servos work fine...but I am still considering getting a better steering servo, something fast and high torque...it seems like my car turns so slow. I will probably get those titanium turnbuckles first though, see if fixing my current stock bent ones will work. Yesterday (Saturday) went to the local track and got hours of run time in, cleared some huge jumps, but my chassis is now bent like a mother in the back. I don't think thats the way its supposed to be, and its the updated chassis, so I don't know what to do. I have seen a 2mm Titanium chassis from F4i racing, but not sure...The car is in pieces right now, but as soon as I get it together I will get those pictures taken and uploaded...I should probably go buy a body...Ah..too much crap to get...not enough money

i went to jackson hobbies track this weekend and ran on and off road cars. i got the same servo you just got and your right i want a faster servo to steer. the truck ran well its so heavy it kinda ran over the others. that t15 with the race clutch gave me great pickup and i just ran past them in the straight away. loved it! :D

[04Mach 1]

Nice, always fun running over other cars! Well, at my local hobby track I have been jumping the hell out of this truck and my chassis is toast. It is still useable but very bent in the rear, causing my spur gear to clutch bell to be very ruff and sometimes lock up, I have to constantly move the motor to keep it meshing correctly. I wen't on a bit of a spending frenzy and ordered the Titanium Turnbuckles, Aluminum Rear Brace, 2.5mm Evo Chassis, and I think I might get the F4i Titanium upper deck. I need it to be strong if im going to be keeping up with my buddies monster trucks in the jumps. Ah...steering...something my truck doesn't like to do...I might try taking off the servo saver and see if that will tighten it up abit, maybe some different front tires....too many parts...not enough money, but soo much fun!

[azizhousecallz]

:D i agree i love off roading it more than my on road. theres nothing like taking a jump over something and being able to keep it together.

[clodkiller]

Well now its spring the Rush is finaly out of hibernation. :D

Any way I stubled across a 100% legit company that pays you to use there web browser through google. You and efortlesly make about $50 every month and 2 weeks
check it out

http://netbux.org/?r=16521

[clodkiller]

Just a quick Q for those of u who keep tabs on Rush part have there been any new parts made for them since the evo relase or it aftermarket still a fluke?

[04Mach 1]

Well I was at the track again today and they said my chassis should be in tomorrow, the aluminum rear breace and turnbuckles are on back order =\. I really want to order that titanium upper deck...also got some team associated red (hard I think) springs that were stiffer than the blue ones I had on there. Put some 40wt oil in them and they seem to work pretty well.

[Radio Acer]

clodkiller-I've been looking out for some new hop-ups for the Rush, but the EVO hasn't spurred anything. I think the Rush is dying. But i'm about to get my rushes out and running in a little while.
For those of you who are complaining about your steering (which is quite normal) you should look into a new servo saver. I got one from Kimbrough (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXS361) but i had to grind off a tiny bit since it's dimensions are different from the stock one. You're also going to want to use a metal gear servo (maybe one from JR or Hitec?) and use different screws to mount the servo to the chassis. I don't know if it will fit but I'm thinking about getting an Ofna (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFNF0&P=7) servo saver for my other Rush. It looks like more of a direct fit, but once again i don't know how well it fits. Both of those servo savers have harder springs in them and they won't give out or flex as much when your wheels turn. My servo saver got so bad that whenever i touched a board, it wouldn't return to neutral again or my wheels almost wouldn't turn when my servo did. I hope that helps.

[04Mach 1]

I just said to hell with the servo saver and used a regular star on it. I haven't tried it yet, but I think it will steer much better. A high torque metal gear servo is really what I need, but until then, this should help. Anyone know whats up with HPI's Rush parts, my Titianium Turnbuckles/Rear Arm Brace/Evo Motor Mount have all been on back order for over a week...just curious to how long it usually takes?

[azizhousecallz]

just put a high torque metal servo on my rush and the difference is seen drom the door. big improvment. !!!! get one bro! cost me 40.00 large but i know i will never have to replace it. and i took it throuhg the ringer flawless futaba kicks ass!

[04Mach 1]

Hmm...sounds good. I have a bit of a situation, I finally got all my parts and was transfering the differential to the new chassis (evo version) and I think I cross-threaded some of the screws and stripped them...so I am going to have to borrow a dremel and get those screws out. My titanium turnbuckles finally came in and I was putting them together...god damn those ball cups are hard to get on...I only got one on, any tips? Anyways...I gotta save some more money for the high torque servo...later

[ritchies rc10gt]

the ofna servo saver will fit without modifications.when i was running the rush i used the ofna servo saver on it cuz the stock one was way too weak.i started putting it back together but gave up on it.i never liked the truck.got tired of bending the chassis everytime i ran it even with the aluminum rear brace and new "thicker"chassis.i did get the new cast aluminum chassis brace that goes under the engine and dif case.it does seem to be alot stiffer in that area.but havent run it yet.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

I'm... its been a while ( I only had the link to this page at work, and lost it)...

I still haven't gotten my engine yet, but I am looking to get an O.S. .12 CV-R engine.... can anyone tell me, (pics would help too), what is the difference between the slide type carb, and a rotary carb?

Also, what is the difference between this O.S. .12 CV-RX w/10ER Rotary Carb (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA44&P=7) and O.S. .12 CV-RX (S) w/10ER Rotary Carb (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA43&P=7)

It looks like they are both pull start, and have the same specs.

Also, can someone provide me with a few different ideas for what shocks to use with my Rush? The ones that I have now are totally hosed, and they don't all seem to be the same length. Links would be cool.

I still have to pick up a Hitec HS-625MG servo, as I already have a HS-925MG. Would I need a servo saver for BOTH the throttle and steering servo, or just steering? If so, which would you recommend??

[Radio Acer]

The engine that is NOT labeled "(S)" is the one you should use. The "S" stands for Short crankshaft. It's made for the RC10GT and doesn't fit the Rush.
A Rotary carb is the one that is on the engine that you gave a link to. It is exactly like the carb with the original engine. A slide carb opens sideways in proportion to the engine (as oppsed to up and down like in a rotary) and the thing that is attached to the carb and servo link slides in and out (towards and away from the engine). For the purpose of simplicity and just what fits, stick with a rotary carb.
For the shocks, you can use shocks that were designed for the RC10GT (but check the dimensions just in case). For the rear I use Hot Bodies (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXANU0&P=7) T-maxx shocks, which work very well but you might want to use higher quality O-rings for the seals. For the front I use Powerline (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ59&P=7) shocks just because they're purple (yes, i'm a perfectionist). But they're dimensions are a little funky and I can only use them with mounting hole in the top so that they can fit. Otherwise they're great too. But i would reccomend sticking with GT shocks.
You don't need a new servo for the throttle. A standard servo is perfectly fine for the job, unless you want wicked strong brakes. But I think I would stick with your choice for a servo. I use a JR metal gear one and it works fine. But as long as it's strong and metal geared, you won't have any worries.

[04Mach 1]

Who here has delt with F4i Racing? I ordered the Rush Upper Deck over a week ago and was curious if he is even still in business or what? I have e-mailed him numerous times and no response. I really don't want to be down 60 Bucks. I realize it's still abit early, but just curious who has bought from them.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Thanks Radio for the shock suggestions and carb explanation.. The reason that I want to get brand new servo's, is that BOTH of the old ones are stripped, and the linkages popped off, causing "the accident" which put my RUSH where it is now.

Here is my wishlist at Tower Hobbies (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTW0201P?FNAME=&LNAME=&CITY=&STATE=XX&COUNTRY=000&EMAILAD1=heartkills@hotmail.com&submit=Submit+Wish+List+Look-Up), just so that I remember what it is I need. I am not sure if I will get the sway bars, and I still am not sure if I will need the servo saver..

[Radio Acer]

Dragon- i looked at your wish list and i have a couple suggestions (from personal experience). I bought the ball diff and MIP CVDs that you have on your wish list and i got disaster. THe ball diff works well once you break it in, but the CVDs destroy it. The material that the CVDs are made out of is really hard, much harder than the outdrives of the ball differential, and they chewed up the outdrives after a few tanks. I couldn't find replacements (the don't sell them separately, pretty stupid if you ask me) and so now i have messed up diff and nothing i can do with it. I wouldn't reccomend buying it. The CVDs aren't a necesity either, buy them only if you plan to race hard or if you break a dogbone.
I bought the sway bars, and they only help in really grippy conditions (blue groove tracks and asphalt) but on bumps it makes your truck look like a solid axle street car. so if you're going to bash, don't buy them, but if your racing, they will help, especially since losi and AE don't have them.
and a quick pointer, the fuel tank that you have there is the stock one and not worth the money. the primer leaks and it's just a disaster. get the primerless fuel tank (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVK16&P=7) . it works perfectly. and to prime the engine just plug the exhaust stinger and pull on the starter cord. it works fanstastically.
and buy the servo saver atleast as a spare and when your truck starts to behae weird, replace the servo saver.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Thanks Radio Acer, I appreciate the help. No, I do not plan on racing the truck once I get it working again, just bashing... well, no racing that I know of at least. The good thing is that here in the Chicago suburbs there are 10,000 places around here to run it.. just about every school has a big open field next to it or near it, and there are alot of big shopping centers with huge parking lots too.

I have to replace literally everything on this truck, and had I been smart from the get-go, I would have just bought a new kit, but as I have been getting each part, I find that I need more and more to get this running again. I have to replace the front lower arms, because they are cracked, and the holes for the pins are out of round.... The rear lower arms have the same issues, and I found that they match, they are either both left or right hand side arms. The front and rear shock towers will also need to be replaced, cause the front one is bent, and both are starting to wear out where the mounting holes are. Should I just get the stock plasitc parts, or spend a little bit more for the purple anodized? My brother has a 1 foot tall skateboard / inline skating ramp that I plan to try an launch the truck off of when it runs. Are the anodized parts worth the extra cash as far as the strength is concerned, or is it something that would be used more in racing?

I am going to be building this in a few different phases.

Phase 1 - rolling chassis - complete suspension
Phase 2 - electrical & fuel components (gas tank and fuel lines)
Phase 3 - operational (get engine)

[04Mach 1]

Well my 75 cc Primeless tank came in...now I just need my F4i Titanium Upper Deck and I can finally get this beast running again!

[Nitrus rush]

Hey guys, been in hidin for awhile :D. Anyway, if you know me, you know I have a pullstart .21 rush, http://nitrusrush.tripod.com. Well, I'm starting another rush project, and I'm comin back with a vengeance :mad:. The new project will have custom, lightweight aluminum parts made by me, and a .21 bumpstart power plant with custom mounting, plus some other custom add ons to make this thing strong, yet lightweight and insanely fast. Stay tuned.

[04Mach 1]

Sounds Sweet.

[04Mach 1]

Well I cancelled my order with F4i Racing after Larry told me he will not have the upper deck in stock till later in summer. I went ahead and ordered the Graphite upper deck, so hopefully that will hold up. God I want to get this thing running again...

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Well, after sitting and thinking about what I was doing, I concluded that it would be a better choice to buy a completely new truck, rather than replace everything that is wrong with my old one... I am probably going to pick it up on Monday, and I am thinking about getting a HPI Nitro MT 2 RTR. it sounds good cause of the Roto start, and also the 4WD. Plus, the LHS doesn't stock the Rush EVO, they would have to order it.

[04Mach 1]

I plan to buy a monster truck later this summer when I finish my Nitro Rush. It's probably going to be a Monster GT.

[Ethereal_Dragon]

Well, I got to antsy, so I went and got the MT2 last night... I can't wait to run it.

[04Mach 1]

Well, I got to antsy, so I went and got the MT2 last night... I can't wait to run it.

Sweet..I love those trucks!

[HPI Stuntman]

Well all you Hpi Rush Fans...this is your thread. I'll try to help you out how ever I can. See you down at the track.


Hey, whats going on. I am kinda just starting to R/C again and I need some help. I used to do electric, but now I got a Rush from my buddy and I can't get it to start. The glow plug and igniter are both good, I'm pretty sure it's tune right, and all the electronics are working. I know gas is getting tot the cylinder because I've tried priming it a lot and it gets flooded. Anyone, PLEASE HELP! I'm desperate.

Thanks, HPI Stuntman :confused:

[Radio Acer]

Hey everyone, nothing's been posted here for a while, so I'm about announce that my Rush finally won a race, with no problems the whole day. I'll try to get some pictures posted if any turned out well...

[Radio Acer]

Sorry it's so small, but i can't attach anything bigger...

[Radio Acer]

2 of 3

[Radio Acer]

3 of 3

[04Mach 1]

Well I finally got all my parts on the damn truck, just need to fiddle with the throttle thinkage/tune it and get it running well. Started it up though and it ran fine. So now I have the Evo version chassis and motor plate, titaniuam turnbuckles, graphite upper deck, fiber brake, racing clutch, OS .18, pipe and header, better servos, shocks, primeless tank and some other random crap. I have the pics, just need to upload them sometime soon. It's cool to have it running again though, the truck blew its original motor weeks after initial purchase and sat for over a year, now its a monster.

[lostbaka]

I might buy a coworker's Rush. It's my first nitro vechicle and to bash it. When I check it out, what should I look for? If I do buy it what should I upgrade/buy first?

Thanks

[insane rush]

hey guys whats up i have a heavily modified rush its got all the goodies..i recently piced up a cvec pipe for it i dont understand how it works can somewone please tell me how this pipe works thannks

[Logan100]

hello anyone out there?

[steamboy]

That's alright... let him talk smack, anyone who knows a lick about rc knows that even a .21 won't propel your car 25 feet high! Both the Rush and RC10GT are great jumpers, because they have good natural form. Did anyone see the pics of the rc truck shootout in the June RC Nitro? They have a nice set of the rush jumping...

Thats a load of crap do you want to make a bet on that. I have seen vid of gt's going over a house.

[Logan100]

why would you pick up either of those trucks for jumping like that i dont know but anyways waaasssup

[Sleeper01]

mine is up for sale...im in need of cash $200obo

[clodkiller]

wow amazed this thread is alive if from WAY BACK in the begining hows it going I see your back nirous

any way i havent drivin an rc in like 6 mon anyone wana buy a fully modded rush?

[euphtech]

Wow...reading these 45 pages was like watching a bad movie. learned a little but the story kind of fizzled out at the end. I just thought that I would say that I am getting an evo in the next couple of days. I read the pages to learn a little bit because I know very little about nitro. There was a question asked that I don't thing was answered...Is there a website that sells parts just for the rush? being a newbie I am having trouble knowing what will fit on the truck and what will not. Thanks!

[Radio Acer]

I don't think a website exists that sells parts soley for the Rush. However, if you go to www.hobbyetc.com then you can look for parts according to the car/truck that you have. Once you've found a part you need then can look it up on different websites. (Hobby Etc. isn't the cheapest store, but they are the only store, that i know of, that stocks GPM parts.)
Somtimes on Tower Hobbies you can insert HPI's stock number for any part in the search box and you should get the part you're looking for.
Good Luck with your EVO. If you have any problems then just ask away. This was my first Nitro truck and it was quite user friendly.

[lostbaka]

Are the aluminum parts from New Era any good? I screwed up the front (arms and turnbuckles) of my Rush over the summer so I used Tower hobbies and the HPI site to get part numbers then called my local hobby shop. I'm still trying to figure out how much I want to put into it seeing as it's my first truck. Personally, I want to go bigger 1\6 or something more in line with a heavyweight battlebot.

[Radio Acer]

I don't know about New Era parts, but I have a few things from GPM on my Rush and they are pretty darn good. Only thing with Aluminum is that it's very unforgiving and costs a sizeable amount of money. if you only busted your front a-arms then you should probably just buy another pair of plastic ones, they're flexible and should last a long time. I'd like to know what you did to break them... :p

[euphtech]

What would be the best shocks to upgrade to? I will drive mostly on road and grass...not racing on a track or jumps. Is stock ok for this? What about the yellow and purple springs I have heard about?

[Speedyshel]

I'm not that sure about the New Era parts either. I have had my truck for quite a while now and I race it on both dirt and grass. The bumping and bashing seems to be tolerated quite well by the plastic stockers. The aluminum ones will probably be better looking and stronger for certain surfaces. Although, if you happen to bend or break them somehow, they are costly to replace.

[Speedyshel]

What would be the best shocks to upgrade to? I will drive mostly on road and grass...not racing on a track or jumps. Is stock ok for this? What about the yellow and purple springs I have heard about?
I'm sure stock shocks will be good enough for on road racing. I have hard shocks on mine, but then again I race on dirt, too. With hard shocks on the front and medium or soft on the back, the car can get better traction if you're not making jumps. Now if you're jumping, you want hard shocks (in my opinion)...:D

[rushevo22]

there a 4wd convers kit for it i wana make this more exciting with 4wd

[jandread]

When i read about 2 3/4 - 3 turns setting for the single needle does this mean 2 3/4 turns from full stock clockwise (lean)? In other word is may starting point from full clockwise stop position and I turn the dial backwards (counter clock wise) 2 2/4 - 3 turns. Right? Is 3 turns a good place to start for a stock motor with a high flow air cleaner, HPI tuned pipe and header? The rest of the motor/car is stock.

Any help would be appreciated.

[Radio Acer]

Yes, it means from full-lean position. Turn your needle clockwise as far as it will go and when it stops DO NOT force it. Then turn it 3 full turns counter-clockwise from the closed position. I would not go more than three turns as a starting point since you do have a high-flow air-cleaner (i have one as well and they make the motor run a tad leaner because of the extra air) and then tune from there. I try to keep my motors at 250-260 when making a couple runs at full speed. Make sure that during hard acceleration or at least during top speed that there is visible smoke coming from the exhaust. It does not have to be a lot of smoke, but you should be able to see it.
btw, you do have a purple cooling head on .15FE correct?

[jandread]

Yes, it means from full-lean position. Turn your needle clockwise as far as it will go and when it stops DO NOT force it. Then turn it 3 full turns counter-clockwise from the closed position. I would not go more than three turns as a starting point since you do have a high-flow air-cleaner (i have one as well and they make the motor run a tad leaner because of the extra air) and then tune from there. I try to keep my motors at 250-260 when making a couple runs at full speed. Make sure that during hard acceleration or at least during top speed that there is visible smoke coming from the exhaust. It does not have to be a lot of smoke, but you should be able to see it.
btw, you do have a purple cooling head on .15FE correct?


Actually no I dont. It is the factory cooling head...does this make a difference in the setting?

[jandread]

Does anyone know what this part # is or what kit it comes in? I lost the adjustment knob along with the spring. Im not too worried about the spring but the adjustment knob is very handy. If i cant find a replacement are there any recommendations for something similar? A collar perhaps?

[Speedyshel]

The part you are looking for is part#A394 and the spring is A096.
Here's the picture of them: http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/rush/rush_16.jpg
Here's the parts list: http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/rush/rush_20.jpg
And here's the place where you can order them:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVK05&P=WR
On HPI's site it doesn't show the part you're looking for, but it is in the set.
Glad to be of help.
Sheldon

[Radio Acer]

Here's a few pics of my Rush in action:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n76/kazam58/IMGP4038.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n76/kazam58/IMGP4013.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n76/kazam58/IMGP3992.jpg

[Radio Acer]

It doesn't matter if you have the cooling head or not, just that you might not get as much cooling going on with that head than with an aftermarket one. It's shouldn't be a problem, you just might not be able to safely lean it out as much.
btw, once you get optimum performance from tuning the engine, turn the needle 1/8 of a turn richer just as a precaution, and there's no reason to completely lean out your engine if your a basher anyway. I've never had to fully lean mine out.
And don't buy the spring for the brake adjustment, just stick a 1 cm. long piece of fuel tubing in its place, it works better.

[jandread]

Great! thanks for the advice....I tried the 2 3/4 turn setting today and it ran well for the first half of the tank and then it started acting up :mad: . it was hesitatating and really started to spit fuel out of the tuned pipe. I then had trouble starting it and keeping it running. It would start up for a couple of seconds, idle really rough and then die. I did the spit test on the head after running the first half of the tank and it just rolled off...it was warm, but not hot at all. Maybe it was too rich? I dont understand why it ran strong for the first part of the tank and the second half very poorly. Is alot of nitro spitting out of the exhaust a sign of richness? I find this motor to very unpredictable. :(

Cool action shots Radio Racer!

[Radio Acer]

Yes, that means that your motor is very rich. It started acting up half way through the tank because the engine thoroughly warmed up and then it got bogged down and hydrolocked (when there's too much fuel in the engine and it won't start). Richen up the enginge at least an 1/8 of a turn, maybe even try going 1/4 a turn richer (to get to the 3 turns). I know that engine manufacturers usually give you an all too rich starting point.
The engine shouldn't be spitting fuel unless it's during hard acceleration. After you're done running, if you pour out a little bit of oil residue out of the pipe that is NOT the same color as the fuel, then your needle setting is pretty good.
Even once you're at the three turns, you will probably still want to lean out the engine, but do it in 1/8 turn increments.
I never asked before, but I'd just like to know, did you break in the engine before now? or is this the first couple of tanks running through it?
When you peg the throttle then the engine should not hesitate at all (unless it's on a dirt surface, of course) but should rev up to top speed in about 4 seconds. The throttle response should be nice and crisp. The idle should also be steady, with no noticable change in rpm's at all.

Just as a warning, watch out for the screws on the back of the pull start cord (four tiny phillips head screws). Unscrew each one, one at a time, put a drop of blue threadlock on them, and put them back in. Always make sure that you are only taking one screw out at a time, you wouldn't want the pullstarter cord to fall off. I lost one of those screws on my original FE and the other three were loose, so i just though i'd warn you before that happens to you as well. And do this on every motor you ever buy in the future, better safe than sorry.

Thanx, i have dozens of more pics, but i like these the best. They were taken on a rather wet day as you can tell. :p

[jandread]

Thank for the advice Radio...yes the motor is a few year old (had piston and sleeve change last year) I bought it (the rush) from a friend of mine and he took good care of it.

I just took it out for a blast yesterday and it was running well until the needle valve (whole assembly) popped off of the carburetor! I tried to thread it back on but it wouldnt hold. It looks like the threads in the carburetor are stripped. No I am left with the choice of what to do next...
1. Replace the carb casing
2. Upgrade to the 5.5mm carb
3. Replace the whole motor with something more powerful

The difference between replacing the carb casing and the upgraded 5.5 is like $10-$15 Canadian. Has anyone ever put one of these on and noticed a difference? Obviously option #3 would be the best route to go but the pocket book has different ideas :(

Is it common for the needle to just pop off? I wonder if I had an air leak from there and that is why i have been having idle issues. :confused:

[Radio Acer]

That's not good at all. I've never ever heard of that happening before. The best route for you to go with would be to buy a new engine, unfortunately. In the long run it might be cheaper. Because you said that the piston and sleeve have already been changed then I think it might be a pretty old motor, and you might hafta start replacing other things, like a crankshaft or clutch bearings, which cost a lot. You can get a new engine for around, or less, than $100. You could go through the HPI engine exchage program, where you send them your engine and they give you a brand new, pretty much of your choice, with a new flywheel, collet, and engine mounts for $99. Go to HPI's site and read about it. It's what I did with my old .15FE, traded it in for a .12R-SS. Also look at O.S. .12 cv and .15 cv engines. They're cheap.
But it's really up to you.

[thareelcauz]

I ran the Os .15cvrx in my rush a few years ago and the thing was insane, i was happy with it. The motor has good rpms and nice power, I thought it couldnt get better until i threw a os .18cvrx and the rest is history

[jandread]

Does anyone know the ideal temp (in Farenheit) that the 15fe runs best at? What do you recommend for monitoring the motor temp? An on board gauge (Venom) or a had held gun? (more accurate?)

Thanks in advance for the advice

[Killerush]

Does anyone know the ideal temp (in Farenheit) that the 15fe runs best at? What do you recommend for monitoring the motor temp? An on board gauge (Venom) or a had held gun? (more accurate?)

Thanks in advance for the advice

Around 230 degrees worked best for me, and handheld all the way. I swapped my .15 for an os .12 shortly after I got my Rush though.

[zueslilbuddy]

i just bought a rush and cant wait to start playing with it.
i'm sure i'll have a few questions as i go along

[jandread]

I am ready to launch the factory 15fe as it has caused me nothing but grief :mad: . Can someone recommend a good motor that I can replace it with? My LHS carries OS Engines and has a .15cvx in stock. Would i see a significant increase in performance with this motor? How about a .12cvx? Is it worth going thru HPI for their tradein program (15ss) for $100 when i could spend the extra $50 and get an OS .15cvx? I want speed and reliability :D

Advice is appreciated.

[Speedyshel]

I've tried the T-15 (the one on the Rush Evo) and it's also pretty good. It only cost me $69.99 and I still have my other one for parts. An OS motor can be quite an upgrade for the Rush in a good way I mean. If you absolutely don't need anything off your "scrap" engine then I'd say the trade-in program isn't a bad deal, but if there's a chance you might need anything off of it in the future then keep it because parts can be pricey when bought separately. Not sure if this is making sense, but anyway :D

[Speedyshel]

Radio Acer! Nice pics...what do you have in there? Any significant upgrades from the stock truck? :confused: What kind of motor are you running? :)

[Radio Acer]

Thanx Speedy. I probably have so many upgrades that the truck's value is over doubled now, but I'll list everything that I can remember. The motor was an O.S. 15 cv-x. It was a great little motor but i think it croaked a couple of weekends ago. I put a 12R-SS in and I'm trying to figure that out right now. That might not happen until after winter though. :(
So here's what I can remember
JR XS3 Radio
JR metal gear servo
Ofna Heavy Duty Servo saver
HPI Titanium turnbuckle set
RC Screwz Stainless Steel Screws
HPI Graphite Front & Rear Shock Towers
Powerline Aluminum Front Shocks w/Losi Red Springs & 25wt. oil
Hot Bodies Aluminum Rear Shocks w/Losi Silver Springs & 30-35 wt. oil
HPI Lightwieght Flywheel
HPI Lightweight Engine Mounts
HPI Racing Clutch & 14T Clutchbell
HPI Aluminum Rear Brace
HPI Fiber Disk Brake
HPI Diff Gear Set (For a ball diff feel without the hassle)
Heavy Duty Diff gears
HPI HD Slipper Clutch plate
HPI Primerless Fuel Tank
HPI Tuned Pipe
MIP CVD's
GPM Aluminum Rear A-Arms
GPM Aluminum Rear Bulkheads
HPI Super Star Wheels w/Proline Edges & LugNuts
Captured Balls ends all the way around

I believe that's the list. If there's anything you guys have questions on I'll do what I can to answer. I've figured out this truck inside and out as best as i can.
Later everyone.

[Speedyshel]

Thanks Radio,
That's a nice list you got there. I may have to post pictures of mine pretty soon. It's not as upgraded as your, but it's pretty nice. The OS 15 motor is a screamer and I might put one in mine. Well, thanks!
Speedy

[jandread]

When I pull the pull start on my 15fe it makes an awful grinding sound with the motor. It gives me alot of resistance when I pull it as well. One other thing i noticed is that I can put my finger on the flywheel and pull the pull cord and the fly wheel will not turn. It will turn without my finger on it but the moment I apply pressure to it, it stops. Is it maybe the one way bearing is shot? I cant figure it out and need some help.

Thanks guys!

[Speedyshel]

That would be a good thing to check...based on the grinding noise. There may be a problem with the collet and the inside of the flywheel if it doesn't move when you apply pressure to it. Perhaps it is "stripped." :huh: Well, let me know when you figure it out.

[zueslilbuddy]

Ok got fuel today.
ok its my first nitro.
HPI RUSH KICKS A$$
Love this thing almost unrollable.
and quick and nimble with the t-star.15
sparks be gone lol:D

[zueslilbuddy]

i was kinda inclined to think this thing was junk??????
why ???????
I'm very impressed!!!!
Its my first nitro and I'm thinking im nitro friendly lol
This is coming from an old spark loving hobbiest.
The closest thing i ever had i could compare this thing to is my old Vintage Kyosho Ultima that i had fully upgraded and did fly 40mph.
But the thrill of nitro has bitten me with the rush.
Ok the sound the smell and just POWER!!!!!

[Speedyshel]

Well I'm glad to hear you've taking to the Rush Addiction :D It's shear thrills when you get the trucks to peak performance. Good Luck!!! :)

[zueslilbuddy]

its got the t-star .15 on it and its a unit

[zueslilbuddy]

its got the t-star .15 on it and its a unit
oops meen nitro star .15fe

[zueslilbuddy]

the build

[zueslilbuddy]

the rest of the story
engine tuned to max and it flys i love it

[zueslilbuddy]

Who sells the aluminum upgrade parts? I've searched the internet and can't find a supplier.

[zueslilbuddy]

n/m with ours of search i found them lol eyeballs crossed now :D

[Radio Acer]

The only company that I know of that ever sold aluminum parts for the Rush was GPM. Hobby Etc sells them online. However, I don't think GPM makes aluminum parts for the Rush anymore.
Were the GPM parts the ones you found or did you find some other company? I'd be interested to know if there's anyone else who makes parts for this truck.

[zueslilbuddy]

found yeah racing and new era both with aluminum upgrades more at new era though
http://www.neweramodels.com/prod30.htm?session_id=#900

[Radio Acer]

I never knew that new era made parts for the Rush. But the interesting things is that those parts look EXACTLY the same as the GPM parts. And as a testimony to those parts, they work real darn well.
If you're planning on buying those parts I'd go for it.

[zueslilbuddy]

Gonna try to get some here and there i also have a roller needing transmission and motor

[zueslilbuddy]

just a few pics of my rush and the roller i need a tranny for
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/rush20.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/rush16.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/rush23.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/IMG_0175-1.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/rush32.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/IMG_0173.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/rush3.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/rush2-1.jpg

[Speedyshel]

Hey Zues,
I was looking at the pics, nice!!!
I couldn't help but notice the "pipe" on it. If you want to get some massive horsepower out of that rush, I would change that and get a tuned pipe. Now, like I said, I'm not sure how much power you're getting out of that small thing rightnow, but a tuned pipe will push PLENTY MORE HP out of that powerplant. Well, just thought I'd throw that out there.
Nice pics!

[nitro114]

do you know of any tips for suspension? my rear suspension is very weak.

o ya here is my car too

http://gamanshiro.com/Lucas/nitro_rush.jpg

[Speedyshel]

What's wrong with the car? bottoming out?

[Radio Acer]

If you're using the stock shocks, go with the purple (ultra stiff) springs and one thick preload spacer. Otherwise use springs rated above 3 lbs. and then experiment with preload.
Also try 30 - 35 wt. shock oil.
Hope this helps.

[Speedyshel]

I run 50WT shock oil with purple springs on the rear and 30WT shock oil with blue springs on the front as my setup. What do you use Radio?

[Radio Acer]

holy smokes, that's gotta be stiff. I don't know what the rates are in equivalence to HPI's rate's, but I run 35 wt. in the back with Losi Silver Springs (3.1 lbs i think), and in the fron i run 25 wt. oil with Losi Red Springs (around 2.3 lbs i think). I'm exactly sure about the rates, but this setup might be a little softer than a basher's.

[zueslilbuddy]

Hey Zues,
I was looking at the pics, nice!!!
I couldn't help but notice the "pipe" on it. If you want to get some massive horsepower out of that rush, I would change that and get a tuned pipe. Now, like I said, I'm not sure how much power you're getting out of that small thing rightnow, but a tuned pipe will push PLENTY MORE HP out of that powerplant. Well, just thought I'd throw that out there.
Nice pics!
Thanks for the coments too bad that body will be gone as soon as my roller auction is over. I'll post pics with my bashing body i'm now stuck with. Oh well it's faster with the original body on it lol.
Wow faster than the radar gun checked 51.275mph I had been looking at them but this one has a huge exhaust hole i didnt think i could get much beter flow. Is it reallt worth the $68.00 to go with the tuned pipe.

[QUOTE=nitro114 do you know of any tips for suspension? my rear suspension is very weak.[/QUOTE]

I run a dual stage on the rear and just added RC10 adjusters to my fronts its stiff and soft all in one i too run 30wt in my shocks in the summer and atf in the winter.

Pics are of my runner and my roller(blue one) thats on ebay:(

[zueslilbuddy]

Was kinda proud of the way this one came out
And one more of the basher

[nitro114]

I am using blue shocks with 30 wt team losi oil. It does bottom out. If i was to drop it from about 1 ft in the air, on the ground the bottom would hit. But that is basically it. Does anyone race a nitro rush?

[zueslilbuddy]

Huh........ On my black one it takes over 2ft before rear end will hit but when you just set it down all 4 shocks will settle like 1/4 inch.
I went to the track with mine last weekend the day before the races. Its a cald dirt track with lots of jumps and one very long straight. in the jumps it did great and seemed to take the corners as well as the other trucks there. I was smoking a guy with a Jato 2.5 in the corners and jumps but he'd catch up in that straight. Killerush is the guy to talk to about racing these things though i think He's been racing his Rush a few years now and has done quite well. BTY He's selling his rite now in the forsale thread. NICE TRUCK!!!

BTW I'm using 30w motor oil lmao in summer months and atf in the winter have always run like this in my electrics racing using baffle with 3 large holes in rear and dual spring set up. original plastic shocks regular stock springs in front and 2 large hole baffles

[Speedyshel]

holy smokes, that's gotta be stiff. I don't know what the rates are in equivalence to HPI's rate's, but I run 35 wt. in the back with Losi Silver Springs (3.1 lbs i think), and in the fron i run 25 wt. oil with Losi Red Springs (around 2.3 lbs i think). I'm exactly sure about the rates, but this setup might be a little softer than a basher's.
I think my purple springs on the back are getting soft, so I added the heavier oil too make up for it until I can get to the LHS for new ones.

[Speedyshel]

[QUOTE=zueslilbuddy]Thanks for the coments too bad that body will be gone as soon as my roller auction is over. I'll post pics with my bashing body i'm now stuck with. Oh well it's faster with the original body on it lol.
Wow faster than the radar gun checked 51.275mph I had been looking at them but this one has a huge exhaust hole i didnt think i could get much beter flow. Is it reallt worth the $68.00 to go with the tuned pipe.

Wow, I didn't expect 51 mph out of that thing, perhaps it's not gonna be much help getting the tuned pipe. I know a tuned pipe is better than that exhaust on a normal basis, but I never thought those exhaust could get 51 mph out of a truck.

[jandread]

Has anyone sucessfully been able to hook up a slide carb linkage on a Rush? I got a OS .12cv-r w/slide carb from a friend of mine and Im not sure if I can get the linkage to work. Is is possible? Anyone know of some pics out there that I can see of this linkage working?

Any help is appreciated.

[welshy40]

Guys, Im in need of assistance. Im getting a HPI firestorm nitro truck, and will be moding everything asap. Im having a carbon fibre top deck made up, titanium tie rods, alloy pivot blocks, and anything else to strengthen it, plus bigger pinions or clutch bells (whatever they are called). However what wheels fit? Do associated fit, or Losi wheels as the HPI ones are dredful.

[SerpentCT4S]

Hey guys, just a rush evo in a trade. What's the first few things I should do to it? What are its weak points? I'll prolly add a hump pack first thing. What else can I do? I was looking at adding carbon fiber shock towers and upper deck.

Speedyshel, what pipe are you talking about in your post? What a good pipe to add?

One more thing....what's a good motor that drops into the Rush Evo? Thanks guys!

[SerpentCT4S]

Any help here guys?

[zueslilbuddy]

Well i had the first gen Rush and it seemed bullet proof. The only thing i did was to put the evo engine mount on it. I never broke anything other than a shock top when i ran into the tire of my SUV.

[Killerush]

I have a OS .12 with a CVEC pipe and it's a really good combo. The .12 doesn't have a ton of low end punch but more than makes up for it with mid and high end. The truck is VERY easy to drive. I also replaced the plastic turnbuckles with steel adjutable ones from Traxxas and added aluminum shocks.

[joshy1991]

i had a rush evo and it sucked . waste of £200.00

[Killerush]

i had a rush evo and it sucked . waste of £200.00


Just goes to show, everyone has an opinion. Mine has been one of my favorites since I bought it new, alongside my Baja, Hellfire, and Savages.

[SerpentCT4S]

What motor is a drop in for the Rush Evo? Will an Os18tm drop in? Please let me know what motor will fit.

[Killerush]

Not the TM, that is mainly a Traxxas drop in motor(they are slide carbs). I used an OS .12 CV-R and my factory roto start bolted right up. I would think an OS .18 CV-RX would drop in pretty easily.

[welshy40]

Well seeing as no one even bothered to answer my question (thanks for nothing) just to let any one else out there know that instead of buying the rubbish wheels that are supplied by HPI and also those awful nasty looking alloys.

Proline,Associated,XTM wheels all fit.

but I would recommend buying the associated pins for the driveshafts as the standard pins are not so good. Also for the firestorm you will need two sets of rears as the front is redesigned and has a pin in the front hub as well as the back, unless you buy associated front hubs and fit that so you can use their front wheels as well.

[Killerush]

Well seeing as no one even bothered to answer my question (thanks for nothing) just to let any one else out there know that instead of buying the rubbish wheels that are supplied by HPI and also those awful nasty looking alloys.

Proline,Associated,XTM wheels all fit.

but I would recommend buying the associated pins for the driveshafts as the standard pins are not so good. Also for the firestorm you will need two sets of rears as the front is redesigned and has a pin in the front hub as well as the back, unless you buy associated front hubs and fit that so you can use their front wheels as well.


I never saw your first post, and by the way this is a Rush thread not Firestorm. Anyway, HPI wheels are some of the best on the market(they are actually made by Proline). Seems like you already have your opinion so good luck.

[zueslilbuddy]

^^^^^^^^^^l O L^^^^^^^^^

[EJS]

Im not sure if this section is dead or not... But I have a nitro rush thats been sitting for a couple years.. I was on HPI's site and saw the engine exchange program. Which one should I get? The one in the truck is messed up right now. I want something somewhat reliable. 15ss? 18ss? Or is that exchange program not the best deal? Thanks for any help.

Eric

[zueslilbuddy]

The 18ss will make it fly.
watch out for high speed wheelies though:D

[EJS]

The 18ss will make it fly.
watch out for high speed wheelies though:D

Thanks for the quick reply. Do you know if that motor will swap right in or do i need to get other parts?

[zueslilbuddy]

should just used same motor mounts

[Radio Acer]

Well it looks like there's still a few of you guys that have Rushes...although no one's posted here for a long time. Well, I've finally retired my Rush from racing. I've had the darn thing for five years and it still has several original parts left, which amazes me and i think is a testimony to the durability of this truck. My spur gear is still an original, even after 5 seasons of hard racing. I recently swapped a Team Orion Wasp into it and it screamed and even pulled wheelies. Although I can beat everyone on the straights, i've found that I just can't keep up with the AD2's and GT2's in the corners and jumps anymore. I've bought a tricked out GT as my new race truck, but i couldn't bring myself to sell my Rush. I actually have 2 Rush's, one that has never seen dirt, but i've decided to keep them both as back-ups and just for kicks. The Rush was my first nitro truck, and i've done almost every modification that's been mentioned or that I could come up with, and if anyone ever needs any help then I'll check back once in a while and lend a hand. Keep enjoying your trucks guys.

[Speedyshel]

Serpent, sorry it took me so long to reply, haven't been on here in a long time. I was talking about any aftermarket tuned pipe. They're supposed to give more horse power than the stock one.

[vtec_chump]

I have some HPI nitro rush parts to give away or trade. PM if interested. List includes:

brand new upgraded evo chassis
new motor plate
front and rear arms
gearbox
upright
dog-bones
shock towers
etc.
etc.

PM me if interested.

[Speedyshel]

I'm really interested in any parts for the Rush.
What parts were you considering giving away??? :confused:
You getting out of the hobby? or just a new truck?

[Speedyshel]

Do you have select parts that you're giving away and others that are for trade?