HPI RS4 Rally forum

[grego9198]

Got my Rally working now
GM V6R ESC
Speed Gems 15T Quad
Sanyo 2400 pack
JR XR2 Radio/Receiver
Fiberglass upper deck

What kind of shock oil and shocks should I run for dirt/ lite jumping? And what should I run onroad? Also what should I upgrade first?

[tl_ke_racer]

i do heavy offroading, lots of jumping(big jumps) i use 50wt it the front shocks and 40wt. in the rear, u want the front to be slightly hiegher in the front.

[Rinkrat99]

Hey Grego9198

I also have the JRX2 radio. Do you have a power adapter for charging? If so what is the ratings? 12Vdc @ xxxmA?

Thanks

[Rinkrat99]

I got the RS4 Rally runnig on asphalst today using Yokomo slicks and I found that the inside front tires were getting scuffed pretty badly. I think the problem is first that the camber is slightly pointed in towards the car under hard turning and possibly the springs are not firm enough. The setup was

1)

[Rinkrat99]

I got the RS4 Rally runnig on asphalst today using Yokomo slicks and I found that the inside front tires were getting scuffed pretty badly. I think the problem is first that the camber is slightly pointed in towards the car under hard turning and possibly the springs are not firm enough. The setup was

1)

[Rinkrat99]

I got the RS4 Rally runnig on asphalst today using Yokomo slicks and I found that the inside front tires were getting scuffed pretty badly. I think the problem is first that the camber is slightly pointed in towards the car under hard turning and possibly the springs are not firm enough. The setup was

1) Stock Oil
2) Stock Springs (Med)
3) No shock limiters
4) Ride height was stock about 1" off the ground

The car was pretty good using a Firehawk motor with 31t pinion. Tonight I try and figure out what my toe-in was and bring the the camber out to bring the tire flat on hard turns.

Damn battery door and side x side packs! I couldn't close the door with my current wire config.

[Rinkrat99]

I finished up my on-road setup.

I used 60w oil in both shocks and the black springs on the rear and green on the front. The ride height adjustment was a 1/4" spacer internal to the shock. The shock is now 1 1/3" rather than the original 1 1/2".

I was thinking maybe go with a spacer that would allow usage of the RS4 Pro series springs which are 1"

Will these springs be too stiff?

[ND4SPDR]

I was wondering if anybody here knows what the part number is for the pulleys that go next to the belt tensioner. I stripped one the other day, but I can't find the part number i nthe manual or Tower. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Rinkrat99]

Try step 4 of the manual. It looks like the p/n is A490

[ND4SPDR]

Ah, I was looking at the parts listing in the back. Roughly how tight should my rear belt be? I'm fairly new to 4WD, and my Rally Weapon never needed any adjustments, so I'm clueless.

[ViperR]

Keep the setting as stated in the manual for starters. It should be the mid-way point. I've always kept mine at this setting whether belt is new or old. Belt should not be too sloppy or too tight. Mid-way is good to start off with.

[KevanB]

Hey guys whats up? I have a stock HPI e-rally. No electronics, but can throw in some 1500 batteries. Anyone interested?

Anyway, what hop ups do you guys suggest that will make hte rally faster? The slipper clutch?

[wiseman]

hey kevanb, are you selling the car, if so let me know how much you want fo it

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all

I need some help with a setup for onroad (Asphalt). I already have 1/4" spacers inside the shock and am using 60W oil in both front and rear shocks. Also, I have the stock black springs on the rear and green on the front. The car is pushing very badly when turning. Should I swap springs?

[KevanB]

Wiseman: I am going to sell the car. I dont know what to include though. I can include:

*VERY beat up inner body, and VERY beat up Subaru Impreza metallic blue rally body
*Very Clean, newly rebuilt chassis, just rebuilt shocks, diffs, cleaned all bearings
*some 1500's
*a Duratrax ESC-100, will handle down to 15 turns, reverse, great for bashing
*a modified Reedy Conquest motor; has lots of torque, great for rally,
*a regular servo
*a Hitec reciever-75mhz, with one crystal
*A Hitec Lynx 75 mhz, sport radio, ok for bashing, comfortable
*If you want, a crappy tower hobbies charger, not peak charger

What do you guys think everything is worth? I would guess around 140 for EVERYTHING. Cuz the radio/receiver/servo is worth $30, motor worth $20, car worth $70-80.

What do you think?

Wiseman, drop me a PM, once we figure out how much it is worth on here. :)

I will post some pics once I get home (i am at school :p )

[KevanB]

Rinkrat: Put some regular touring car springs on the shocks. Add some preload spacers, and voila, you have a touring car.

Oh yeah, Wiseman, I can also include

*some spare touring car springs,
*preload spacers,
*and some other spare parts for the car (bearings, screws, shock stuff)
*the manual,
*box (lol)

[wiseman]

VernanB I'll give you $120.00 for the whole thing I can pay you with paypal, let me know

[KevanB]

Cool, Ill sell it for 135 shipped, since it is such a huge package. (I have no idea what shipping will be, but $15 is an esitimate, I will find out later). I will let you know

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all

I need some help setting up my RS4 rally for onroad. The pic is the result of my latest try at getting it right. I am running a 1/4" spacer inside the Rear shock with 60w oil and 3/8" spacer in the fronts with 30w oil.

The Red spring is rated 58.8 gF/mm and the rear has the stock Black at 67.2 gF/mm

I tried a heavier spring in the front with 60w oil and could not steer. The Heavy spring is rated 78.4 gF/mm

HELP - any ideas on adjustments?

[KevanB]

What do you mean it wont steer? It could be the camber, or something binding in the steering. First try using a softer spring setup in the front.

[Rinkrat99]

Hi Kevin

The car pushes very hard when turning in. The Red spring is the softest that HPI offers. The camber is about 0 also.

[KevanB]

Increase the camber. And try some harder springs. Those tires look mighty old too. I have no other suggestions, Im not a expert touring car tuning either.

[KevanB]

Wiseman, I will sell the car for $120, but I do not know what shipping is yet. Send all other stuff to kevanbates88@hotmail.com

[jerrit1]

KevanB, here are some things to try to increase your steering.

Front Shock Mounting - Move the lower shock mount towards the outside

Front Camber Link - Longer camber links increase steering

Front Ride Height - Lower the front ride height

Rear Ride Height - Raise rear ride height for more high speed steering

Rear Shock Mounting - Move upper mount towards outside

Wheelbase - Lengthen the wheelbase for more steering

Rear Toe-in - Decrease rear toe-in

Front Toe - More toe-in gives you more steering coming out of the corners

Ackerman - Use less Ackerman for more sensitive steering

Front Caster - Less caster gives you more steering exiting corners


Jerrit :D

[jerrit1]

and for gods sake...buy new front tires, those things are DEAD! ;-)

Jerrit :D

[jerrit1]

...remember, tires are the ABSOLUTE #1 performance tuning aid, the tire will make or break a good racer, the suspension geometry is a fine tuning step after the correct (and in good condition) tires are choosen for the track your on.
The best bang for the buck for on-road, dry asfault at about 65-104deg F are the Duratrax SFGP tires (4 for $10) from www.towerhobbies.com
You can re-use your current wheels by boiling them and peeling off the old tires.
The inserts are another fine tuning aid, always buy molded inserts, generally soft inserts = more traction on high-traction tracks and hard inserts = less traction on high-traction tracks
I use soft in the rear and hard in the fronts on all of my on-road cars.

Hope this was some help for ya.

Jerrit :D

[jerrit1]

Hahah....sorry KevanB, my responses were for Rinkrat99...DOH! my misteak. ...did somebody say steak! (a little Duce bigalow joke there).

:rolleyes:

[Rinkrat99]

Hi Jerrit

Thanks for the info. FYI - Those tires were run on the rear about 1 hr on the asphalt. I then swapped them to the front while they were still in good condition. GOOD CONDITION=even tire wear.

They were Proline Med compound slicks with the Proline foam insert which sucked hard.

These tires were worn through within a 5 min pack.

I didn't want to buy new tires until I at least settle the suspension

[BrianJohnson]

Just got my e rally its faster then i thought it would be. :eek:

[jerrit1]

Rinkrat99, I think your foam inserts are definately what caused the dreaded "inner ring of death"...but an hour of constant driving is a lot of tire to road time.

Jerrit

[trakhak]

I checked the sale forum but no luck, any of you guys have a extra rally roller you want to sell. Inexpensive, dont need all the options, just a clean good condition roller.

[ViperR]

Hey trakhak,
Know someone who has a newly built Rallye to sell. He decided to get into nitro instead. I'll post info when I find out more. It won't be a rolling, though. It will come with the whole shibang.

[wiseman]

Viper i have rally for sale with hop up parts on it LMK

[ViperR]

Hey Wiseman,
I should have put an "I" at the begining of my reply. "I know someone who's selling a new Rallye", not "Know someone who's selling a Rallye?" My mistake. Sorry. It was for trak above.
Anyway, found out lots on this beauty. All new,2 radical custom NASCAR/NASTruck bods, fully set-up, never seen pavement,tons of hop-ups,spare parts (I mean lots), full radio, ESC, new ROAR motor, xtra rims/tires,etc.,etc.,etc!
This guy spent a ton getting it set-up and all the stuff and what he paid for the custom bods. Last minute he decides to go nitro. Must be $400 or $500 in all.
He's still deciding on a price for the whole lot. I'm guessing on $250 and I'll talk him into paying for shipping (US of cource).
This is a steal!

[Killer racer]

Just got my rally i love it. What are the best hop ups to buy for it?:)

[ViperR]

Hey all,
Above Rallye w/all above items (plus ALOT more) has been sold. Some lucky person got a **** load of stuff! Items calculated more than $500 worth of items. Almost like an HPI Rallye hobby shop in one deal. Everything was new and unused.
Right place at the right time.

[wiseman]

I really like both of my rallys, ! is the RS4 Rally, with hop ups, and the other is my PRO 3 with alot of hop up parts, waiting on my 1 way front axle for got the need for speed with it, :D

[ontherush]

i have a hpi rally and i want to put me reedy Ti modified 12 turn single motor in it. what pinion should i use so the rally could have good low end and good top end at the same time?

[marcusg]

Fellas just got done with my rally Suburu. Thanks for all the help. This thread was very useful. I attached a few photos. The pics don't give it justice.

Marcusg

[*Miller*]

Never really knew anything about RS4 Rally's, but I just picked up a second hand roller off Ebay. It needs some work on it, but I am confident I can sort it out... I have a Pro3 and SNR at the moment, so, in your opinion, should I fix up the car for my own use as a light off roader, or fix it up and re-sell? It cost £26, and has no body, electronics or wheels. To get it working it needs to be screwed back together and needs new rear shocks, plus the equipment I mentioned that is missing. Opinions, please? :p

[SteveK]

I say keep it: You'll never make back what you put into it to sell.

Besides, it's an awesome car, and a blast to drive. I gotta rebuild mine now that the snow is gone and the rain stopped.

[*Miller*]

Cool. Btw though, the undertray and inner body are not included :p Is this going to hamper going offroad? Or will I get away with using it offroad but cleaning it

[SteveK]

I think the inner body set is a good thing for off-road: Little stones and stuff have a tendency to get into the belts and diffs, even on-road sometimes. On-road you could just use the bottom half if it's fairly dirty. I'll put up with a little extra heat for keeping the interior cleaner and for a little piece of mind while running.

[A+_gangsta]

How can i get the shocks off the electric rs4 rally? And does anybody know of a blowup sheet for the rs4 electric rally? I bought a roller of of ebay and have a 27t stock and a novak explorer 2 and its really fun!

[A+_gangsta]

thought i would post a pic of my body that i modified for fun cause i will buy a new body (SUBARU) and paint it orange and purple and it wil look sweet!
This body here a did a yaer ago and is getting old!

[A+_gangsta]

thought i would post a pic of my body that i modified for fun cause i will buy a new body (SUBARU) and paint it orange and purple and it wil look sweet!
This body here a did a yaer ago and is getting old!

[A+_gangsta]

thought i would post a pic of my body that i modified for fun cause i will buy a new body (SUBARU) and paint it orange and purple and it wil look sweet!
This body here a did a yaer ago and is getting old!

[A+_gangsta]

thought i would post a pic of my body that i modified for fun cause i will buy a new body (SUBARU) and paint it orange and purple and it wil look sweet!
This body here a did a yaer ago and is getting old!

[A+_gangsta]

oops sorry about this!

[SteveK]

A+gangsta-

To take off the RS4 Rally shocks, lift up the lower spring perch and grab the plstic rod-end with pliers. Twist it until it pops off, and then pop the top mount off once that's loose.

I recommend getting some of the open-end balls and snapping them into the shocks, so you can mount the shocks with screws and nuts. Check the original RS4 manual for the part #s.

[*Miller*]

Originally posted by SteveK
I think the inner body set is a good thing for off-road: Little stones and stuff have a tendency to get into the belts and diffs, even on-road sometimes. On-road you could just use the bottom half if it's fairly dirty. I'll put up with a little extra heat for keeping the interior cleaner and for a little piece of mind while running.

Should I see about getting the inner body set then?

Also, could someone possibly post a picture of the rear shock assembly please? It was disassembled on the chassis I just bought, and with no manual, I dont know what it is supposed to look like. Thanks!

[KevanB]

Go on hpi's website. They have the manual there

[*Miller*]

Thats a great idea, why didnt I think of that rofl! Thanks mate! :D

[marcusg]

Gentlemen, what do you guys think of the HPI Front One-Way 32 tooth Differential upgrade, part # A509 ? Is this upgrade worth it ?

Thanks, Marcusg

[wiseman]

I have one in my car and also chanded the top gear going to the front end, gave me more speed with it,

[1 Bad STi]

Hey Everyone, just picked up the subaru rally kit. I plan on running a 3000mah battery or higher, which is the best bet to go for? Am running it on a Speedgems Jade motor.

Was looking at some, Team Orion Super Duty Plus 3000 Battery Packs?? Any good:confused: :confused:

[1 Bad STi]

Anyone useing the Pirelli Tires?

[ND4SPDR]

I am. They wear MUCH better than the regular rally tires, but they certainly aren't slicks. Haven't used 'em much offroad though...too much fun drifting. :)

[1 Bad STi]

Did you purchase them online?

[ND4SPDR]

Nope, hobby shop.

[1 Bad STi]

I await my car..... just won on EbaY...:D

[1 Bad STi]

I await my car..... just won on EbaY...:D

[1 Bad STi]

I await my car..... just won on EbaY...:D

[1 Bad STi]

Sheesh:rolleyes: sorry for the overposts

[*Miller*]

Hehe nice one, looks still wrapped?

[1 Bad STi]

still wrapped when i bought it.

[1 Bad STi]

Hey Gentlemen, Could you please suggest some Bad A$$ battery packs for my Rally. I will be running a Speed Gems 15T. I would like to get something that will give high speeds/long runs.

[*Miller*]

Cool, I use Sanyo 2000Mah packs. They cost me £20 for a set, I put gold plugs on. I charge at 3.5amps, and I get good speed and pretty good run time, over 10 minutes

[jerrit1]

go to www.promatchracing.com
Get the GP3300 cells at 1.170+ volts for $72
or get the GP3300 cells at 1.160+ volts for $50
These are truely the most powerfull cells I have ever used.

umm....no...I dont work for nor sponsored by them....just love their batts.

Jerrit

[1 Bad STi]

Are these packs any good?

http://**************/ws/*******************************3138445776&category=2565

[A+_gangsta]

Heres my deal. With the body mounts on the car, i wish they were not so tall out of the car. Could i cut them off, drill a hole and put it back through with clips on the bottom and the top to when there will be no body post sticking out of my car? If i were to do this, could i be able to still race in a hpi rally class at a hpi challenge? i would appreciate an answer quick!
Thanks,
A+Gangsta

[super_suby]

i'm at the stage where i can install my electrical components on my new RS4 Rally Impreza, but i don't understand how the servo links to the steering. does anybody have any pictures or good explanations? i have futaba equipment. does the star-shaped piece have to be replaced with the part that came with the HPI kit? please help me, i cant wait to get my suby out on the street!
thanks!

[Ryan Lane]

Yes. The stock servo horn (star shaped thing with holes in it) needs to be removed. You then replace it with on that has only one arm from the HPI kit. Look at the arms. There should be three or four of them. There will be one marked for use with a futaba servo. You may need to refer to the manual for this. It is important that you use the one for a futaba servo. Make sure to charge up a battery and center your servo before you instal that servo horn. This is all outlined in the manual. IF YOU DONT CENTER IT FIRST you will end up taking the servo back out to do it.

[super_suby]

thanks for the quick reply!
I've got the right arm now for the Futaba servo. Could you please give more detail on the process of "centering" the servo? also, in general..... does anybody have a good illustrative photo of a very efficient set up on an RS4 Rally? What are the best places to mount all the electronic components. Thanks guys, this forum has been very helpful for learning a ton about r/c.
peace

[ND4SPDR]

To center the servo, just center the steering trim knob on your transmitter, turn it on, turn on the car, and the servo will center. Just make sure to turn the car off before you turn off the transmitter. As for electronics placement, here's an ancient shot of mine (before all the pretty parts and connector upgrades):

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=1584

The esc is located where you see it, and the receiver on the wide part of the upper chassis.

[1 Bad STi]

ND4SPDR , what tires are you running on your rally?

[1 Bad STi]

i noticed in some of your pix, your not running pirellis'... just curious?

[ND4SPDR]

Yeah, that's an old pic. They're Kyosho Rally Blocks...here's a new one:

http://www.******.net/media/graphite.jpg

[1 Bad STi]

How are they working out for you?

[SteveK]

Originally posted by super_suby
thanks for the quick reply!
I've got the right arm now for the Futaba servo. Could you please give more detail on the process of "centering" the servo? also, in general..... does anybody have a good illustrative photo of a very efficient set up on an RS4 Rally? What are the best places to mount all the electronic components. Thanks guys, this forum has been very helpful for learning a ton about r/c.
peace

This has become a no-brainer in newer cars, but the RS4 Rally is still somewhat old-school in this respect. For starters, bolt in the servo like the manual says. With all your electrics plugged in, turn on the transmitter and then the ESC, the servo should center itself.

Now look at the car from the right side, straight at the servo. The tie-rod running from the servo should be at a right angle to the imaginary line between the centers of the screw holding the servo arm on and the ball the tie-rod mounts to. If it's not, you can end up with more steering throw one way or the other. You can do a couple things if it's not 90 degrees:
- Move the steering with the centering adjustment on the radio if it's a tiny adjustment.
- Move the tie-rod to a different hole on the servo arm.
- Take the arm off the servo and move it in the desired direction if it's a larger adjustment.
- If there's room, and it's a slight adjustment, you could put some washers under the ball where it mounts to the bellcrank to raise it on that end. Just keep the number of washers small, and keep an eye on clearance when the steering moves.

When you have that straightened out, look down at the car from the top: That same tie-rod should be perpendicular to the bellcrank arm it mounts to. If it's not, you can do a few things:
- Add or remove washers to the pivot-ball on the servo arm.
- Move the tie-rod to another hole in the bellcrank.
- Move the servo in or out slightly with washers (Just watch the belt).

I haven't wrenched on the RS4 in a while, but I seem to remember that it was set up pretty well right out of the box. I messed with spacers on the servo arm and bellcrank, but that's because I used Du-Bro rod-ends instead of the snap-on type in the kit. I think it should be pretty close out of the box, close enough that you might not need to do anything.

Now if you are talking about my RC10T and RC10DS, then you'll want to pay a lot off attention to it.

[ND4SPDR]

Originally posted by 1 Bad STi
How are they working out for you?

They've been getting fairly worn from tons of onroad drifting, but they can definitely handle rally surfaces. I like them. :)

[1 Bad STi]

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/409f3e61/bc/My+Photos/MVC-091F.jpg?bcIADI_AiynyPbKl

finally done......

Speedgems Jade 15T
SMC GP3300's
Tekin Formula 10

[1 Bad STi]

any of you guys have experience with the 2speed for the rallys? (dont take my offroad to much)

[1 Bad STi]

any of you guys have experience with the 2speed for the rallys? (dont take mine offroad to much)

[1 Bad STi]

I am now going to sell my rally, is anyone interested. Look in the For sale Thread for details. Thanks.

[_SC_]

is the rs4 rally roller ready? or not hpi said it was roller then a post on here said it isn't?

[flabandit]

Was looking hard at getting the rs4 rally for bashing. Two questions: Do you all use the inner body? How does it handle and how fast is it compared to the tc3 and losi xxs.
Thanks.

[RallySteve]

Originally posted by _SC_
is the rs4 rally roller ready? or not hpi said it was roller then a post on here said it isn't?

Nope, you gotta build it.

RS

[RallySteve]

Originally posted by flabandit
Was looking hard at getting the rs4 rally for bashing. Two questions: Do you all use the inner body? How does it handle and how fast is it compared to the tc3 and losi xxs.
Thanks.

The Rally is a perfect car for bashing, but don't expect it to handle like a TC3 or a XXX-S. Speed wise it's comparable to those... maybe not quite as quick, but if you use the same motor as the others have it'll be close. They will leave you in the corners though.

Think of it this way... you'll kick their butts in the dirt!

Don't use the inner trays at all unless you're driving it in really loose debris, however... sometimes I'll just use the bottom half. Seems to be better than nothing and you still get quite a bit of airflow.

RS

[fanboyslayer]

I've been looking hard at one of these because I like the dual sport option. But how DO they handle? Could I keep up with a T-Maxx? I know very little about the performance of these cars.

[Rinkrat99]

Hi Guys,

I am in the process of finishing up an Excel spreadsheet for my 4 cars that have the final drive ratio for each model. It will be much easier foir me to pull-out 1 sheet and look at the RS4 and say ok what do I need for gearing.

My question to you is?

What is the max and min Spur size that the RS4 takes?
What is the max and min Pinion size that the RS4 takes?
If possible, if you could provide Spur 90 takes a 23t to 30t pinion, 87 spur takes a 26t to 34 pinion etc.

Thanks

[RallySteve]

Originally posted by fanboyslayer
I've been looking hard at one of these because I like the dual sport option. But how DO they handle? Could I keep up with a T-Maxx? I know very little about the performance of these cars.

That's a little hard to answer unless you've driven one. They've got some body roll and they can handle the jumps pretty well, in fact at our off road track we were clearing quad jumps with ease using stock motors. They didn't always land pretty, but they flew nicely. :) Actually now that I think about it, our lap times were faster than the stock trucks and buggies, but that's basically due to the 4wd system in the corners.

As for racing against a Tmaxx... well, with a stock motor you'll kill him off the line and out of the corners, but you had better be out of the way when he catches up with that .21+ on the straight! With a mod... you'd probably be able to fend him off all round... for about 4 or 5 mins. :p

RS

[RallySteve]

Originally posted by Rinkrat99
Hi Guys,

I am in the process of finishing up an Excel spreadsheet for my 4 cars that have the final drive ratio for each model. It will be much easier foir me to pull-out 1 sheet and look at the RS4 and say ok what do I need for gearing.

My question to you is?

What is the max and min Spur size that the RS4 takes?
What is the max and min Pinion size that the RS4 takes?
If possible, if you could provide Spur 90 takes a 23t to 30t pinion, 87 spur takes a 26t to 34 pinion etc.

Thanks

The only thing I can offer is what I currently use... 90 spur and 28t pinion (48 pitch). I'll go up or down a couple teeth with the pinion, but that's pretty much all it needs.

RS

[holshotracer]

i have two questions for you guys. right now i'm changing my mini over to the rally type because i'm setting it up for dirt oval and need to know whats the part # for the front belt and whats the over all legth of the chassis? i'm wondering because i'm making my own chassis and don't have the front belt.

[RallySteve]

The front belt is:

A744 Belt S3M 438 (146T) 3.5mm $8.00

Are you wanting to know the wheelbase length or from the front edge of the chassis to the back?

I converted a Mini to a Mini Rally and it was a hoot! One thing I recommend though (if you haven't already) is to get the CVDs that fit the Mini. You'll have less headaches with the axles, because with the stock setup they want to pop out of the outdrives due to the increased suspension travel.

let me know if you have any other questions regarding this conversion. Oh, I've got pics too!

RS

[holshotracer]

i need to know the length of the chassis, from the front to the back. i ended up using arms off a kyosho pure ten alpha arms and dog bones. so right now i have a 200mm wide mini. i going to make my own chassis.:D

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

What tire do you guys find works good semi offroad and doesn't wear alot on ashphalt?
Thanks

[wiseman]

I use regupar street tirs from proline they seem to grip both kinda good for me. plus through a wild rooster tail on my rally

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD375&P=7

will these work?
i am looking for cheap aluminum rally shocks

[RallySteve]

Well, the HPI Mini chassis is 261mm from the front edge to the back. My Team Atlas chassis is 262mm, so anywhere in there will work just fine.

[RallySteve]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
What tire do you guys find works good semi offroad and doesn't wear alot on ashphalt?
Thanks

A tire I've found that works good off-road and wears good on asphalt are the Tamiya Rally block tires. They're pretty hard though... but OFNA makes a copy of them that are much softer and seem to wear ok on tarmac too.

My buddy recently bought a Nitro TC3 for his father and the tires that come on that look like they'd be good for on-off road running. They've got a pretty deep aggressive tread and he's been breaking in the motor a lot lately and they seem to wear a long time.

btw - those shocks you posted a link to look like they'd be fine for the Rally.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

cool,
thanks rally steve.
I guess this is the tamiya rally blocks
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGG35&P=7

do you think this will have long wear too?
cheapest pair of rally tires I can find on tower
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSE39&P=7

I can't find the ofna ones, but I think one of those two should be ok. The question is... Which ones?

[Turbo Subaru Gl]

http://www2.kidactors.com/phorum/download.php/28,679/edited.JPG
My super nitro rally... :D Hey I actually RALLY IT!!!

[RallySteve]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
cool,
thanks rally steve.
I guess this is the tamiya rally blocks
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGG35&P=7

do you think this will have long wear too?
cheapest pair of rally tires I can find on tower
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSE39&P=7

I can't find the ofna ones, but I think one of those two should be ok. The question is... Which ones?

I think you'd be safe with either of those. I've never used the Kyosho ones, but they look like they'd wear well.

RS

[microrcdude]

Just picked up a used rally. I love the thing, i just have to get a reciever chip for it.

[microrcdude]

Right now, im saving up to buy some new shocks. Then, it will get the carbon fiber treatment.

[wiseman]

Has anybody tried a two speed transmission on a rally, if so let me know how it works out for you, thinking about getting one, got the need for speed, :cool:

[RallySteve]

Originally posted by wiseman
Has anybody tried a two speed transmission on a rally, if so let me know how it works out for you, thinking about getting one, got the need for speed, :cool:

As long as you only use it on-road you should be just fine, but I've heard that they don't last long off-road.

RS

[RallySteve]

Since we haven't had too many pics posted lately, I thought I'd post an old pic of a Corolla body I did up a few years ago.

It's inspired by one of Ivan Stewart's Pro trucks.

RS

[RallySteve]

Here's a Tommy Makinen Edition Lancer I painted up a while back.

[microrcdude]

RS

Nice bodies. Do you still race at amain??

[RallySteve]

Originally posted by microrcdude
RS

Nice bodies. Do you still race at amain??

Every now and then. I'm just starting to get back into the hobby after a 2 year hiatus, but I'll start racing there more often after I get some new gear.

How 'bout you?

[microrcdude]

Yeah, im starting to race rally.

[wiseman]

Does any of you know of any tracks on the west coast of Florida to race at,

[microrcdude]

This weekend, i'm gonna fix my car, and test out my track(will finish track tomarrow)

[microrcdude]

OOPS!!! All in a days work....

[microrcdude]

I am thinking of buying another rally and converting it into a 4WD buggy.

[wiseman]

I have been thinking about getting rid of mine have to many and really no place to race it other than a parking lot

[microrcdude]

I'm gonna order some orion dish rims this week....

[Warling]

HEY guys..

Im really new to the world on RC Nitro cars so if you could jsut answer these two questions about the car it would be really appreciated. First thing.. how fast dopes this car go? acceleration and top speed? actual number would be great but just general opinions would be fine.. and Also what components could be changed or altered in the car to make it go even faster?

Thanks a lot
Matthew

[microrcdude]

For the rs4 rally, or the super nitro rally?

[Upstate Bob]

Hey, here's a pic of my latest body, 1998 Subaru WRX. I like the 2 door style better...

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid89/p438ec153d5fb24f9c423333ea4f4ec07/fa8a3d70.jpg

I've converted it for street use, I just moved to Austin TX and there's no place to race rally-style around here. Also, not shown, I just added a Trinity 15T Jade motor and Take Off rubber slicks on 10 spoke touring wheels. She's pretty quick now and handles great. I really love this car.

:)

[novakguy]

hey im thinking about getting a rs4 rally and i was wonderin if it could handle my novak brushless and do u have any brushless setup tips for this car? thanks

[microrcdude]

I haven't put a brushless in mine yet.(no money:p )
for gearing: 48P 24, 90

[kpsycho]

im 19 and in college and im gonna get my first real rc car i decided upon a hpi rs4 rally this is my list of what to get what do you guys think



rs4 rally $159.99
Hitec Ranger 2N 2-Channel AM/2 HS-303 Servos $39.99
LXDND9 DuraTrax Piranha 6-Cell 1900mAh Flat Standard $16.99*2
DuraTrax Piranha CX-15 AC/DC Fast Charger w/Meter $31.99
hitec EZX-R 2-Way Speed Control esc $39.99
kyosho atomic force 17x2 $19.99
thread lock $1.90
heat sink motor plate $26.99
27t pinion $5.69
graphite upper deck $17.49
black outlaw $4.09
metalic red $4.09
flake silver $2.89
agressor paint mask $4.79
shoe goo 2 $4.49


as possible parts but not sure (money issues)
98 imprezza body 19.29
head and tail lights www.rcneon.com 39.95
underbody light setwww.rcneon.com 49.95
slipper clutch 20.19



i believe thats it any and all input wanted and greatly appreciated

[microrcdude]

sound great! get a set of cheap road tires, too!!

[SteveK]

Originally posted by kpsycho
im 19 and in college and im gonna get my first real rc car i decided upon a hpi rs4 rally this is my list of what to get what do you guys think



rs4 rally $159.99
Hitec Ranger 2N 2-Channel AM/2 HS-303 Servos $39.99
LXDND9 DuraTrax Piranha 6-Cell 1900mAh Flat Standard $16.99*2
DuraTrax Piranha CX-15 AC/DC Fast Charger w/Meter $31.99
hitec EZX-R 2-Way Speed Control esc $39.99
kyosho atomic force 17x2 $19.99
thread lock $1.90
heat sink motor plate $26.99
27t pinion $5.69
graphite upper deck $17.49
black outlaw $4.09
metalic red $4.09
flake silver $2.89
agressor paint mask $4.79
shoe goo 2 $4.49


as possible parts but not sure (money issues)
98 imprezza body 19.29
head and tail lights www.rcneon.com 39.95
underbody light setwww.rcneon.com 49.95
slipper clutch 20.19



i believe thats it any and all input wanted and greatly appreciated

Radio - You might not like a twin-stick model. Try a pistol-grip radio, anything with steering dual-rate should do fine. Airtronics, Futaba, and Hitec make good radios (I'm partial to Futaba). You only need one servo, but if you only save like $5, get a radio with 2 so you have an extra.

ESC - That Hitec ESC won't handle the 17 turn motor you chose: It's only rated for 23 turns and above. Look at the Futaba MC330 for a good, inexpensive ESC that will handle hot motors.

Motor - Consider a stock motor, like the P2K, at least at first. They have a lot of power and torque, but they'll last longer than a 17 turn modified (I wouldn't be surprised if the P2K turned out to be faster than that Kyosho motor). That pinion is a good choice for stock motors.

Charger - Skip the 'timer' chargers. Peak chargers, where you just press a button and does the rest, are so inexpensive right now it's not worth saving the $5-10. Get one that can handle NiMH batteries, since the charger will last for years and those batteries will be the standard at some point.

Car stuff - The slipper clutch is a good buy, especially if you plan to drive off-road. I actually recommend people get that first over the slipper, if cost is an issue: You can let a hot motor cool down, but you can't wait for a broken belt to fix itself.

Take a look at HPI's website, for the upper deck from the original RS4. That one even in fiberglass is a better option than a graphite version of the current upper deck: It's larger, and uses more posts to tie it to the lower chassis.

And a set of cheap on-road tires and some extra wheels are a good idea, the stock tires wear quickly on asphalt. Tamiya makes several tires for about $7 a pair.

Lights are neat, but I don't know that they really help with driving at night. The rest of the time they would just get knocked around. The underbody stuff, that's personal preference but I don't like it.

I'd get stuff like this:
- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBSX4&P=7 ($10 less than the Impreza)
- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCFW2**&P=0
- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUY13&P=7 or http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUY14&P=7 (Depending on your budget)
- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRR48&P=7
- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=7
- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM641&P=7
- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGM28&P=7 (Plus wheels of your choice)

[4x4rust-o-pede]

hey guys!

well i am about to make the deal for a Perfect rs4 rally car
with:

unpainted focus body
full decals
full inner body
rally tires, rims

its a complete rally car, all for $85 shipped!
i cant wait!!!

nate

[microrcdude]

New rally buddy!!! WOOHOOOOOhow are you gonna paint it???

[L-S-C]

Hey, finally got my Rally today, well yesterday, its 3:30am and i just got done building it. This was my first HPI kit and i must say I enjoyed it. I got the Subaru version, when i ordered it from Tower i also ordered front and rear universals, slipper clutch, heat sink motor mount. Much easier putting upgrades in as you build it! I also got a Speed Gems Titanite 15t double, Peak Racing 3300 pack, LRP Quantum Sport (damn its small!) and a Novak XXL receiver, all controlled by my 3PK. Tomorrow I must paint the body, run to the lhs and get a 23 and 21 tooth pinion. Im anxious to see what its performance will be like with this equipment, any guesses? I'll take pics and post 'em when its all finished!

Jon

[Electricity45]

Hey, man. Congratulations on the new Rally, Subarus are awesome, but for a real car, I prefer the 2004 Nissan Altima, I'm looking to get one.LOL Watch the heat on the motor, and break the brushes in also, you'll get more performance out of it. And with a fifteen turn motor like the one you got it should go about 25-35 mph, very, very fast for a newbie (assuming you aren't). Should be legal at the Mod. Class at your LHS, race it if you can. Well knock yourself out, the first drive is always the best, running your fresh kit, no scratches, squeaky clean..........Blah, Blah. Have Fun!

[microrcdude]

this is cool!! now i have more people to talk about the rally to!!!! I love my rally so much, it's getting some new parts this christmas. Body, Stainless steel screws, new batteries,...........

[microrcdude]

L-S-C

your birthday is the day after mine!!!!!:D :D

[L-S-C]

Got all the electronics in the car today, didnt get to drive it outside though cuz it was raining. I did try it out on the ceramic tile floor though, insane!!! It likes doing 360's! I cant wait to try it out on the track. The lhs didnt have a 23 tooth pinion, its got a 21 tooth in there now, think it could handle a 23t for a little more top end?? Very pleased with the way it performs, still isnt quite as quick as my 10L3 Touring with a 10t double, hahaha. later

Jon

[microrcdude]

you should put a 25 tooth pinion in it. 23 sound sorta low for a rally

[L-S-C]

Finally got to drive the car on the road today, top end speed is pretty good! Acceleration is excellent on the pavement! This is my first 4WD electric car and I'm very pleased with it. I'm thinking of building another Rally already, only with a BL system.....we shall see. Spent the better part of yesterday putting the decals on the car and making look just like the real thing, turned out awesome. later!

Jon

[microrcdude]

what body do you have??

[L-S-C]

The Subaru! Im still debating weahter to put the rear spoiler on it though, it looks good without it too, but the car feels a little twitchy at high speeds. Its a really sweet car, when the battery is freshly charged, from a dead stop going to WOT it still breaks loose a little on pavement!

Jon

[novakguy]

ok im getting a hpi rally escuto and my friend is getting a tamiya pejero he will have a 15t speed gem pro with a novak rooster and 3300 batterys and im getting a hpi rally and putting my novak brushless in it with 3300s me and him have been debaiting witch one is better at certain things what do you think heres the things what do you think


1.. rock crawling
2.. tug of war
3.. basic offroading large jumps ect
4.. advanced offroading giant hill climbs loose dirt ect
5.. top speed
6.. snow use


thanks;)

[4x4rust-o-pede]

howdy

well, i am waiting for hs addy, then money will be on the way!!! woohoo, unless, he sold to someone else! hopefully not!

well for paint, i have been thinkin yellow with black hood(carbon fiber)

whaddya think?

for electronics, either a 10x2 or a p2k matched with a quantum competition, sort high end for rally, but thats all i got, and it has inner body so i should be ok, i hope.

cant wait till it gets here!

nate

[microrcdude]

the P2K is the best motor avalable for the rally. Use that. Ypur paintjob reminds me of ToxicSoups silvia. If you do a carbon fiber hood, do a black wing, too!

[RALLYKID]

Hey guys really like this forum..........I've had a rally for about a year now and dont see why they are not so popular?? (well popular around us) but you never see them in mags or on hpi web site?????. I guees they are tageted to just the "rally people"

[microrcdude]

I love my rally! Apperently, so does my dad. I can't go anywhere without him asking any questions about my car. I think he might get one

[RonnieRayGun]

the P2K is the best motor avalable for the rally.

you say that with such authority! i like to use the reedy mvp because i can adjust the timing for bashing. i also like it for winter driving, since it runs so hot, it keeps things nice and toasty inside the inner bodies. otherwise the cold seems to shorten my battery life (run time), especially if i run with just the lower body.

i have a p2k and it is a nice motor, but it is keyed to 24 degrees, which is great for racing!

edited for clarity... :)

[microrcdude]

the P2K has so much torque, so everyone arond here is using it!

[RonnieRayGun]

so you must be racing, i can see that. :D

[microrcdude]

Wrong. My rally is broke. the person who owned the car before me goofed up the rrp top shaft:

[novakguy]

i got my rally on christmas and built it in 4 hours how long is it supposed to take...? j/w..well its sweet i have a novak ss and it flys i dont really know how good it goes offroad.. "we have snow" but ive been driveing it in the street and jumping off the end of my driveway this car is probly the best rccar ive ever had i got the escuto body and painted it white in the front and a very light layer at the back and then blue under that then black under that and painted my spoiler black ill post pix l8ter

[tc3xtreme1]

Hey everyone. Just ordered one: Subaru wrc 2001. I also got the motor heatsink. Hopefully it is here on Monday. Does anyone know if the body comes with the yellow things on the side( the stars and half circles). Also anyone have any tips for building it. thanks

[microrcdude]

tips from HPI website:
In step 12 of the assembly instructions the front uprights need to be cut so that the suspension can reach its' full length. The best way to cut them is to use sharp plastic snips and a fingernail emery board. The portion of the arms that needs to be cut should be smooth and even with the rest of the uprights.

When assembling the self-bleeding shocks, fill the shock with oil, then put the bladder concave side down into the shock (dome-side down). Put the upper pivot into the aluminum shock cap, and gently screw on the cap. Have a towel handy, because oil will come out of the small bleed hole in the shock cap. When you have the cap screwed all the way on, the shock is complete and bled correctly.

If you want to fit the optional Sway Bar Set (#A209), you will need to bend the wires down slightly to fit on the front end. This is in addition to the modification to the arm brace that must be done.

Use a small drill bit to put two small air holes in each wheel, opposite each other. This lets air inside the tires in case the tire is glued all the way around the tire making it almost airtight. If a tire that is almost airtight is compressed, the tire may not fill back up with air and expand, giving you a temporary flat spot on the tire. A couple of 1/16" holes will prevent that problem.

Use rubbing alcohol to clean the rims and tires where you will be gluing the tire to them. Doing this will ensure a good bond so that your tires do not come off in a race.

Use weatherstripping glue (not Shoe Goo or something similar) to glue the ends of the foam strips together on the wheels to form a foam donut. If you use stiff glue it will cause a hard spot in the tire, and if you don't use any glue you will get a flat spot. Either will throw off your tire's balance and make handling somewhat erratic. We like Permatex Super Weatherstrip Adhesive.



HPI racers have found that Pacer Zap CA (CyanoAcrylate, or Contact Adhesive) works best to bond the rubber of the tire and the nylon of the wheel. It is super thin, and it runs very well between the tire and rim. It may run too well, so don't use too much, and have some debonder (super glue solvent) available in case it gets on your fingers.

For Your Information: The shock clips that are included in all HPI shock sets are 1mm, 2mm, 4mm and 7mm thick. This will allow you to know what the measurement is, instead of thinking, "the third thickest spacer".

Racing tips:
General Chassis and Suspension Setup
For modified racing, you should set up your car a bit stiffer than for stock, because the car is going to go faster into turns. Go up one piston number, a shock oil weight or shock spring.

The sway bar set is generally necessary only to fine-tune the car, maybe to get a little more steering.

We recommend you have a one-way diff for use on very large tracks with long straights. Since only the rear wheels will brake, the tendency for many racers, especially those who are not used to the one-way, is to spin out while braking. Most people do not use the one-way diff, and reserve it for very special track conditions. If you spin out while using the one-way diff, ease onto the brakes. Advance to full brake gradually and slowly. If you can train yourself to brake sooner, this won't be much of an adjustment.

Even though you may have the belt tensioner attached, the belt should ride loose, just enough to catch the gear teeth while not slipping.

To have your steering slop-free: he has his servo saver screwed very tight, about 7 or 8mm off the chassis. This will help make sure the steering servo centers the wheels correctly, but does not allow much room for the servo saver to protect the servo in case the front wheels scrub a wall.

If you want to tighten up the steering linkage, you can take out the z-bend piano wire and use HPI's short purple ball ends (# Z137) and a tie rod and ball joint set to connect the bell cranks. This removes some of the slop in the steering and the short ball ends prevent the ball joints from rubbing the underside of the upper deck. The measurement from the center of the ball joints remains the same at 48mm. This modification also allows you to adjust the Ackerman angle, but most racer do not mess with this! Another way to tighten the steering is to use two 4 x 8 x 3mm bearings (#B017, $14.00) on the pilot shaft of the steering arm instead of the plastic bushings.



Off-Road Chassis and Suspension Setup
For bashing around your yard, the settings from the manual work very well. If you are running on very rough ground, like at a construction site, you may want to add 2mm to 4mm of ride height to the shocks. You will find it easier to go over obstacles this way.

Driving Tip: Some rally races are held on dedicated off-road tracks with large jumps, tabletops and doubles or triples. If this is the case, you should raise the ride height and practice hitting the jumps properly so you don't go upside-down too often. Approach the jump head-on if possible and coast into it. As the front wheels hit the jump, go full throttle until the front wheels clear the crest of the jump. If done properly, you should land on all four wheels. You may have to add a larger wing or spoiler to the rear of the car to help keep the nose up while the car is in the air. (7/7/98)



On-Road Chassis and Suspension Setup
Many HPI customers have more than one kit, and have upgraded certain parts of the kits they have. If you have a spare shock set from an RS4 Mini or RS4 Nitro after you have upgraded to Super Shocks for that car, you can use that extra shock set to have a dedicated set for on-road rally car use! Real WRC cars have many sets of tires ready for pit stops and use the proper tire for the conditions they will face. The pit crews can also change the shocks in as little as 20 minutes, and you can do the same thing when preparing to run on a paved track.

For a track with a bunch of traction, such as a track that has been swept or blown off and then sprayed with soda or sugar water, use a firm suspension. Bill likes the #4 piston, a thick (40 wt) silicone shock oil and stiff springs, such as gold or white.

For a slippery or loose track, you will need a soft suspension setup for more chassis roll. Bill uses a #1 or #2 piston with 20 wt or 30 wt silicone shock oil, and copper (softest) or silver (one step harder) springs.

Bill likes his chassis to run very low to the ground - about 3 to 4mm! To set up your car this low, mount the top of the rear shocks on the upper hole of the shock tower, the hub carriers in the lower holes, remove the unflanged rings from the shock bodies and use the shock clips to adjust the ride height.



Tire Selection and Chassis Width
The stock tires that come with the RS4 Rally are great for most off-road bashing. Grass, loose dirt and sand are all good places for the kit tires. Don't run these tires on asphalt for very long! You'll notice the knobs wear off very quickly when they are run on a surface they are not meant for. For hard-packed dirt or clay tracks, the softer rally tires (soon to come from HPI) will work much better. Testing by HPI factory drivers has revealed that for the typical clay/blue groove dirt track, the soft compound Rally tires that will be available soon are the best tires to use.

The spacers that come with a pair of HPI wheels are 2mm wide. They will basically widen your car by 4mm. The RS4 Rally with standard-offset 26mm tires is about 196mm wide at the outside of the wheels. With the spacers the car is about 200mm, which will make it a little more stable in cornering. You can glue them in the wheels, but we recommend that you glue them to the hub adapters if you use them so you don't lose them or have to re-install them each time you change your wheels. Some drivers like to have the spacers only in the rear to get more steering, some like them all around. Experiment, and see what feels best to you.

Using the wheels with 3mm of offset gives you an extra 6mm of width to use for better cornering and stability. With the 3mm offset wheels and the 2mm spacers, your RS4 Rally will be a little wider than 200mm.

Since the introduction of the belted tires, many sedan drivers have been impressed with the tire squeal when the car is cornering. While it sounds like a real car, the squeal means you are losing traction. Using the new molded tire inserts, available from a couple of companies, will almost eliminate the squeal. See the tip below.

The recent surge in popularity of the molded foam inserts is making tire choice a little bit more confusing. The companies offering molded foam inserts have them available in two different compounds: soft and hard. The soft inserts are stiffer than our included foam donuts or strips, and the hard insert is even stiffer. Using these on some high-bite tracks will improve traction, but you may have to soften your suspension.

For more on-road tire tips, check out the tire tips page.



Radio Equipment and Electronics
Use the stock external antenna mast, not a 'stealth' antenna that is hidden underneath the body. A little wind resistance is better than risking radio interference that could cause a huge crash. Also, if another racer is running on a frequency that is close to yours, your car may glitch and get twitchy at the opposite end of the track. The extra range may mean the difference between you hitting a wall and getting around that hairpin!

Many racers like to use a high-speed high-torque steering servo to handle the front wheels. His favorite is the Hitec 525BB, a servo that has 55 oz. of torque with a .10 sec. rotation speed. Fast and strong servos do cost some money, so they are only recommended for serious racers.

Mount the motor as low in the chassis as possible to gain the advantage of a lower center of gravity. You can vary the height of the motor mounting by choosing spur gears and pinion gears of varying sizes.



Maintenance
Use a very lightweight bearing oil on the bearings. Make sure that there is no grit in them. If there is, use motor spray to blast the dirt out, then reapply bearing oil. The bearings that are sealed in the kits won't have to be cleaned, so you won't have to worry about those!

Bill and Frank are big believers in using MIP Blue Seals and RCPS Green Slime when building or rebuilding shocks. The Green Slime goes on the o-rings and lengthens the time between rebuilds, but by no means does this mean you can ignore your shocks! Rebuild them when you notice a leak, or about every three to five race days.



Other Tips
Many racers like the large front bumper that is included in all HPI 1/10 touring car kits. Most of us here at HPI use our optional Foam Bumper (# 6231) to make our bodies last a bit longer. Foam bumpers also support the nose of the body, so the front spoiler doesn't hit the ground as the wind goes over the car.

Many racers have never bent a stock tie rod in several months of racing. Options like a good selection of tires and an extra body and/or wing set are a higher priority than titanium tie rods.

Speed Tip from Kent Clausen: Your ball cups should be kept fairly loose when on the ball ends. They should be able to flop around easily but still stay on. One way to do this is to put the ball cup on the ball end, then pinch the sides of the ball cup with a pair of needle nose pliers. Then, push down on the top of the ball cup by using pliers (slip joint pliers work great) and pressing down on the top of the ball cup and the threaded end of the ball end

[microrcdude]

yes, it comes with those decals

[4x4rust-o-pede]

hey guys!!

i got my rally today, wow it is fun!! never bashed a car this hard before!!

the body is very lite yellow, its not my best but it works, this think has the best setup i have ever seen! it sticks to the road like glue!!! (but thats the last time it sees pavement)

right now i have a quantum comp, p2k, and XR3 radio system, it works great!,

i will post pics later, hopefully offroad pics, no posers!!

nate

[xxh0lywarsxx]

hey i know its not the wanted forum but im either looking to buy a good condition roller or trade a rtr rally for a very nicley hopped up hpi micro rs4 with about 400 dollars invested in it.

let me know

[tc3xtreme1]

ok sweet!!! I wanted to paint it like the pics, but didn't really want to try to paint the yellow stuff. im not the greatest at details and don't have an airbrush. Well i can't wait; i get it tomorrow(hopefully) or tuesday. My friend is also getting one, probable the lancer VI. Is there anything else you should do to protect it from running it in the snow.

[4x4rust-o-pede]

well, for me, the inner body does an excellent job, nothin in it at all!!!

nate

[microrcdude]

for every mitsubishi sticker your friend puts on his car, he will go 10MPH faster.........................................J/K

[novakguy]

hey..i was looking at my friends tamiya pajero and i realized the tires will fit on hpi rally rims and there much bigger than the stock rally tires i think im going to get some and make my gearing 23/90 the tires make my car like 3/4" taller soo now i have jus barely 2" clearance uder my car has anyone ever used tamyia pajero? thanks

[microrcdude]

I've wanted one, but never got one.

[tc3xtreme1]

What gearing are you guys using?

[wiseman]

My rally with all kinds of hop up parts on it, runs real good even with a stock motor, its kinda squirley with a mod motor in it

[novakguy]

hey i jus broke my back axel in hlf and i was wondering what size axel do i need for the back thanks:D

[microrcdude]

This:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM661&P=Z

[novakguy]

hey i need some new tires and was wondering what tires u use..i need some that will last long but go good offroad with a high profile to give me some extra clearance...i was thinking tamiya pajero tires but i cant find them anywere! soo i was wonderin what you would recommend thanks:D

[Turbo Tin Can]

I need these shocks for my conversion, Any rally shocks will work, aluminium or composit. I can't even find stock ones.

[microrcdude]

Shocks
These:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM714&P=Z
or these:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM699&P=Z

I can't find the tires. I'm gonna ask for the part # from someone that has one.

[microrcdude]

I know another way to gain ground clearence. Put an RPM long shank ball end on the end of your shock. It gives you a lot more ground clearence, and is cheaper than new tires.

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by tc3xtreme1
What gearing are you guys using?
My gearing is 24/90 with a stock motor. For mod, i use the 10 over rule as seen below:
motor wind+10+# of teeth on pinion

[Turbo Tin Can]

So im starting my conversion now, and well the rears wont be an issue lots of ground clearance their. But on the Rs4 3 seem teh front hubs wont go in between the space on the bottom a arm. Their seems to be blocks, i filed the one side but for only a few mm gain. Any ideas on how to solve this? I was thinking get aluminum a arms and aluminum knuckles, file them or grind them so that the knuckle goes through the arm. What do u think?

[Turbo Tin Can]

BTW: I need to buy some used front hpi Rally suspension, no shocks tho, just the arms and knuckles. Whose got some for sale?

[microrcdude]

I found out how to make this car 190mm!!!!

[microrcdude]

you can get some on wwww.ebay.com

[4x4rust-o-pede]

well i got my first broken parts!!

i was driving on my grass, and i drove up a tree, came down drove it off then hit the lip on the sidewalk then flipped a few times and cracked both rear shock shafts, i did this on sunday, and i just found the other spring!

all fixed now! this thing is great

nate

[wiseman]

Originally posted by microrcdude
My gearing is 24/90 with a stock motor. For mod, i use the 10 over rule as seen below:
motor wind+10+# of teeth on pinion

I'm running 28/86 with a stock fantom 27 turn motor, with alot of the hop up partd on it, :cool: :cool:

[marcusg]

Fellas, besides the type of tires, springs, oil, camber, and toe in, is their any other tuning options you can do to the RS4 Rally to handle better on road ? I' racing on road, and wanted to get some input from you guys who race race on road with your rally.

Thanks, Mark

[microrcdude]

the heat sink motor mount is a must. It keeps your motor cool, allowing your cars motor to last longer

[Turbo Tin Can]

Marcus im pretty sure the suspension is interchangable with the nitro rs4 3 ss if that helps, im using alot of rally parts on my rs4 to convert it to rally.

[microrcdude]

Why? they are the same lengh

[Turbo Tin Can]

Well im using the front arms on my rs4 to get more ride height, i dont see why u cant use the rs4 arms on a rally to lower rideheight and gain adjustability.

[microrcdude]

I have a ton of extra parts that are new. If u need anything, let me know

[Turbo Tin Can]

Doh, already ordered some lol, ill let you know k. You in the US? I couild always use some turnbuckles and arms.

[microrcdude]

I have a pair of arms. I think they're rear, though. I just don't have turnbuckles

[StanleysDad]

Microrcdude:
Saw your RRP top shaft was cashed out. Did you find a replacement? I've been trying to get one for several weeks and can't find any.

Stanley's Dad

[microrcdude]

yeah, i did, but i went with a stock hpi shaft. I had to order a ton of parts, but only a couple have came. I'm still waiting for a second gear set, and a spur gear hub.

[microrcdude]

My dad and i are going to start making carbon fiber parts for the rally, micro, TC3, xxxs, and more.
Is $8.00 a good deal on a front shock tower?

[StanleysDad]

Any interest in making graphite upper decks? If so, I'll buy a couple (assuming the price is reasonable)

[microrcdude]

yeah. I actually thaught about doing a full carbon fiber chassis. Im still thinking about it. does $15.00 sound reasonable?

[StanleysDad]

I recognize that this is slightly off topic but...what process are you planning on using to make the CF parts? Sorry, just the engineer in me coming out.

[PCC]

If you are going to make a CF upper deck then you should consider making a copy of the original RS4 upper deck as this is much stiffer than the narrow one that comes with the RS4 Rally.

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by PCC
If you are going to make a CF upper deck then you should consider making a copy of the original RS4 upper deck as this is much stiffer than the narrow one that comes with the RS4 Rally.
where can i get an original stock upper deck at for the RS4? I'll take that into consideration.

[firefly21]

<http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/>
under HPI, RS4 not Rally, incredibly stiff, a must have for accurate and predictable suspension action

[sport-maxx]

the rally was my 1st car. i love it! i made this car go to he!! and back! hasent broken from a real crash. just a stupid crash. if i had the body on it wouldnt have broke! its the best!

[StanleysDad]

Originally posted by firefly21
<http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/>
under HPI, RS4 not Rally, incredibly stiff, a must have for accurate and predictable suspension action

By the time you get done paying S&H, it works out to be about $30 for just the upper deck (original RS4). I'm tempted....

[novakguy]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM664&P=K check this out at the top it says front axel if you read into it ...it says rear axel

[PCC]

Those are rear axles.

[novakguy]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCEA2&P=K these will fit on the stock axels right? because i want bigger tires and if i get these rims i can put 2.2 rear buggy tires on my rally

[microrcdude]

correct. I'm putting B3 wheels on mine.

[novakguy]

if i get a 2 speed trany...can i go offroad if i make a dirt cover for it? because it says not to go offroadbut i figured if i made a cover it would be allright?

[SteveK]

No: The HPI 2-speed is not durable enough to handle the shock of off-road driving. It also doesn't really help speed or acceleration unless you have a long track.

[microrcdude]

^^^ he's right. You would go through gears and motors like crazy!

[CLICK_666]

Hey i was wondering what would be the best pinion/spur combination for the longest run times and best efficency? thanks

[HPI rally racer]

I have a rally too!!! Where do u recomend driving them?

[microrcdude]

I drive mine at hometown hobbies. Danget, your a day older than i am!!!

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by CLICK_666
Hey i was wondering what would be the best pinion/spur combination for the longest run times and best efficency? thanks What motor are you runnin?

[CLICK_666]

speed gems pro 12t double

[lhistand]

Does anyone have an upper deck for the RS4 Rally. If so, please let me know. Thanks.

[HPI rally racer]

yeah i need an upper deck too!!!

[HPI rally racer]

does any1 here live in the lower mainland in Canada???

[4x4rust-o-pede]

hey whatsup?

hey rally racer - i dont live in canada, sorry

well since since winter is over, I am in the middle of building my real car's motor, I need cash, so if anyone wants a Rally car, great condition, LMK, i want $90 for it, no electronics, except for servo and motor!

email me at cruelturbowrx83@yahoo.com

nate

[CLICK_666]

dude ill take it off ur hands ex the servo
C_L_I_C_K@hotmail.com
and im from canada rally racer in southern ontario

[PCC]

Originally posted by lhistand
Does anyone have an upper deck for the RS4 Rally. If so, please let me know. Thanks. Are you looking for an original upper deck (narrow one) or an original RS4 upper deck (wide one)?

[CLICK_666]

whats the difference between them, which one is easier to find

[wiseman]

Originally posted by HPI rally racer
yeah i need an upper deck too!!!


Hey I have 1 I can sell you

[PCC]

Originally posted by CLICK_666
whats the difference between them, which one is easier to find As seen from above, the RS4 Sport upper deck (also used on the RS4 Rally and the Pro in graphite) looks like an 'I' while the original RS4 upper deck looks like an 'A'. This extra width gives you additional mounting points for standoffs to allow you to stiffen the chassis even more.

Here's a link to HPI's site where they show the deck and how it's installed in the car. (http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/rs4/rs4-012.jpg) Take a look at the lower chassis in that picture. It's the same as is used in the RS4 Rally.

The original RS4 upper deck is difficult to find, but, I have one...

[microrcdude]

What upper deck should i use for high traction on road tracks with tight turns?? I'm runnin a stock motor.

[CLICK_666]

where can i get the original rs4 upper deck? The "A" shaped one?

[PCC]

Let's just say that I no longer own an HPI Rally nor RS4 Sport but I still have an upper deck...

[PCC]

Originally posted by microrcdude
What upper deck should i use for high traction on road tracks with tight turns?? I'm runnin a stock motor. The original RS4 one.

[CLICK_666]

hey pcc can i buy that offa you?

[HPI rally racer]

never mind about that know. thanx anyways. im getting the upper deck from my LHS. How effective is the heat sink motor plate? Also if anyone is from canada British Columbia let me know cause i want a race partner.:p




-Harp

[microrcdude]

the heat sink motor plate is awsome. IMO, its worth twice it's price.

[lhistand]

PCC: I'll take that upper deck for the RS4 Rally!

[microrcdude]

wow!!! Its a fight over the upper deck!!!!!!
*microrcdude grabs the popcorn and waits for the next reply*

[CLICK_666]

u can have it im getting a t-maxx beeotches :P

[HPI rally racer]

my LHS is being a b**ch. Now i really need an upper deck.:mad: Any 1 gonna sell me 1? i live in Canada BC so i guess there will be shipping. I mite need the main chassis to. please other wise im going to have to make my own:( please email me at harpy_pimp@hotmail.com





-Harp

[lhistand]

Come on Microrcdude, put down the popcorn and put a price on it! Then we'll see who wants it the most?

[HPI rally racer]

ill buy upper deck for 10-15 US

[popfeng]

Hey guys, im new here. I jus built my car. The long belt sits really close to the motor and the battery when the battery is inserted and help down my the battery holder. I moved the belt tensioner down on the belt so it raises a little bit. But it is still really really close and sometimes it rubs. Im afraid it'll kill the belt because the battery gets really hot or the motor gets really hot. My motor is a Orion 19Turn double with the stock gears that the kit came with. It runs a bit funny and seems to lack power. What should i do? get a lower pinion gear and upgrade to a 17T? what gearing should i use? what motor for best performance. But im really concerned about the belt rubbbing the battery and the motor. PLEASE HELP ME/ Does anyone else's belt have any rubbing? maybe i built it wrong??? please respond. THANKS ALOT TO WHOEVER CAN HELP ME =)

EDIT::: My motor is really weird. in order for the pinion and the spur gear to catch, the motor wouldnt sit on the framce, i had to lift it up, therefore making it really close to the belt. im afraid this is a problem. the belt would get rubbed and burned and snap or something. what should i do? everything else seems fine though. thanks

[lhistand]

Don't worry about your belt rubbing on the battery and motor. That's how precisely these cars are designed. I Have two Rallys, that I absolutely love, and the belts polish the motor can and the battery. And both belts have been in for two years! The battery and motor simply act as belt guides, and the amount of friction is insignificant.

[popfeng]

so i should just leave it as it is? no need to make sure it doesnt rub? i get all paranoid about the belt breaking cuz i would have to take apart the car to switch belts. But, if you experts say its not a problem, then im jus being dumb.

Oh, btw, how would i change the belts. I dont think i need to take off the whole front and rear. The front looks like i can do it from the servo part and remove it from there, but rear looks like i have to remove the whole thing.

Ps.: is it normal for the motor not to be sitting on the chassis and have to be lifted for the pinion to catch the spur?

THANKS ALOT GUYS!

[wiseman]

Hey I have had mine for a couple of years and never broke a belt yet, I sure do like my Rally, its all hopped up and is fast!!

[lhistand]

Hey, Popfeng, forget about your belt for a year or so! The secrets to long belt life: Don't have them too tight; run with the inner body on; and when you have the money put a slipper clutch on. The belts may outlast the rest of your car!

Yes, the motor will have to be lifted to engage the spur gear. And insure there's a LITTLE backlash between the gears -- if you put a piece of paper between the gears when you're tightening the motor, when youm remove it there should be a little "play" between the pinion and spur gears.

[popfeng]

Thanks for the help guys. So im gonna let it rub all it wants. I was jus afriad that the belt couldnt handle the rubbing and the heat and wear itself out.

so now my only question is wut motor to use and wut pinion and spur to go with it for the best best result. i like my car fast and driftable. Not too fast though. I think i like a 17T motor cuz thats all my ESC can handle. So for a 17, wut spur and pinion?

i wont worry about the belt then


Thanks again.

[PCC]

Originally posted by popfeng
so i should just leave it as it is? no need to make sure it doesnt rub? i get all paranoid about the belt breaking cuz i would have to take apart the car to switch belts. But, if you experts say its not a problem, then im jus being dumb.

Oh, btw, how would i change the belts. I dont think i need to take off the whole front and rear. The front looks like i can do it from the servo part and remove it from there, but rear looks like i have to remove the whole thing.

Ps.: is it normal for the motor not to be sitting on the chassis and have to be lifted for the pinion to catch the spur?

THANKS ALOT GUYS!

You can move the motor down relative to the belts by going with the next larger spur gear and the next larger pinion. So, if your gearing was 87/16 you will have about the same gearing by going to 90/17. By using this larger spur and pinion setup the motor will be farther from the belts. Please make sure that your motor does not hang below the lower deck, though.

As for replacing the belts, you will have to take the car halfway apart to get the front belt off or the rear belt, likewise. This is true for all of the electric HPI cars except for the Pro4.

[popfeng]

OK OK OK, i jus bought meself a good ESC, it can handle 8T. So i dont want anything too fast cuz everything on the kit is stock. dunno if the ball bearings and the stock dogbones or arms can handle so much. So anything around 15? 14? 13? if so, wut spur and pinion to use for best result? 12 maybe?

please post

Tahnks!

[popfeng]

BUMP BUMP

What gearing should i be using? im thinking of a speedgem 14T or a 12T, what gearing should i use? i dont want too much load on the motor and have the car be pretty fast. basically a happy medium. someone said 31/90 is too much, then what should i use?

REPly please!

[HPI rally racer]

Any 1 no where i could get the main chassis and upper deck. I cracked them and if i dont get it fixed my car is useless. I REALLY badly need help or my car is going to the can. if any of u could sell me these parts i would need them together. I live in canada so i guess there will be shipping frum the US. Pls ppl i need ur help. What do u recomend? thanx-Harpy

[microrcdude]

can you tel us which parts are cracked?

[microrcdude]

here's a chassis: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3179594677&category=44015

They ship worldwide. The chassis will make your rally handle better

[microrcdude]

Stock upper deck: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM668&P=Z

[PCC]

Originally posted by microrcdude
here's a chassis: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3179594677&category=44015

They ship worldwide. The chassis will make your rally handle better That chassis will work but you will have to mount the steering servo differently, which means that the servo-saver setup will have to be changed. Also, the underbody tray will not fit.

[C0NTENDER]

Sorry for the splatter guys, but I thought some of you should know what's going on with the HPI challenge this year if you don't already know.


Thanks for the question. We've been doing the standard HPI Challenge series for several years now and everyone's had a great time. In order to keep getting the race coverage in the magazines we need the series to evolve to keep up with the hot trends in the industry. So this year we will shift our focus a little to emphasize the Savage trucks.

We're planning two Savage Slam events that will be fun events like the one we did last year... racing, Savage Bowling, concours, long jump contests, barbeque, prizes etc. The idea is to get together for a fun truckin' event with friends and family. We're shooting for one event on the west coast and one event on the east coast, both in the Summer so that the whole family can attend.

For the HPI Challenge, we're planning one event with the format basically the same as in previous years (nitro and electric sedans), with selected winners getting a free trip to the HPI Challenge World Finals in Europe. The race will probably be in the Summer, somewhere in the middle of America.

If your not happy about this, please go to
HPI Challange (http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34825)
if you wish to make you opinion known.

[microrcdude]

^^^ Not a smart move, HPI. Thats like $400 down the drain!

[HPI rally racer]

hi you guys, i am just trying to get an idea of how much i could sell my rally stuff 4. It is basically 2 rolling chassis, one with broken chassis but could be ordered from HPI factory. 3 sets of tires, one set of tires are onroad, 3 sets of shocks, one set of shocks are onroad. 3 bodies(pegeot, wrx and mercedes clk gtr) runner ESC and a trinity copperhead motor. Also 2 under body things that include those guys driving a car and the thing that goes under your chassis (2 of both of these). how much would you pay for this just to give me an idea. Your reply's mean alot to me, thanx.

[adult_squid]

Most people say that the hpi is better and faster but how?
Does it accelerate faster or corner faster or handle better? If I had the same exact batteries, esc, servo, and motor in a RS4 rally and a Tamiya TB01 which would be faster? I'm trying to decide what to get.
Thanks

[microrcdude]

The hpi is so much smoother than the tb01. I beat a mod tb01 with a stock hpi rally.

[adult_squid]

Any body know where I can find some videos of the e rally in action

[marcusg]

Fellas, I have the slipper clutch that I never installed. My question is, I'm using my RS4 Rally mainly for on road racing, should I install the slipper clutch anyways, or will it be more of a disadvantage ? Also those of you who are using your Rally for on-road, what kind of setup up are you running ?

Thanks, Marcusg

[philp37]

I just aquired an HPI rally rolling chassis. I got it together with a package of other R/C offroad trucks that I really wanted. Can I take the Rally and seriously race with the guys at the local indoor track who race "touring cars" on carpet?

[microrcdude]

if you lower the suspension a little bit, you will be competitive.

[HPI rally racer]

hi you guys, i am just trying to get an idea of how much i could sell my rally stuff 4. It is basically 2 rolling chassis, one with broken chassis but could be ordered from HPI factory. 3 sets of tires, one set of tires are onroad, 3 sets of shocks, one set of shocks are onroad. 3 bodies(pegeot, wrx and mercedes clk gtr) runner ESC and a trinity copperhead motor. Also 2 under body things that include those guys driving a car and the thing that goes under your chassis (2 of both of these). how much would you pay for this just to give me an idea. Your reply's mean alot to me, thanx. Sum one plz reply. :mad: