HPI RS4 Rally forum

[jayskiia]

does anyone have one? have you seen one? my lhs tells me they wont go on dirt or jump, so whats the point? i want one but i want to know what to expect.

[Isky]

your LHS is full of it. This car wont go on dirt? the what the(bad word) is it supposed to go on??? And it will jump. One guy posted a pic of his car on a track designed for off-road trucks jumping like 6 feet into the air. the car went super high...this thing is awesome...

[jayskiia]

cool thanks for the input. if anyone else has comments please send them to me. also i cant find a whole lot of info about the hpi challenge rally contest...not much about it in the mag. how was it?

[Isky]

I heard it was awesome...lots of prises!!!!! Everyone got something! You would be dumb not to go!!!no offense. Im going to go to one which will soon be held at my LHS

[CTRallyRacer]

Jaskilka,

GET ONE! I have both the Electirc and Nitro version of the rally and love them both! If you want to look at my rides, take a look at my website...

0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0
Connecticut Scale Rally Racers http://www.ctsrr.com

[morfeeis]

those pic's came from dkov here are a few of them there is also a few other rally cars there too

http://www.rccarboard.com/cgi-bin/ubb/Forum12/HTML/000002.html

[morfeeis]

Originally posted by Isky:
your LHS is full of it. This car wont go on dirt? the what the(bad word) is it supposed to go on??? And it will jump. One guy posted a pic of his car on a track designed for off-road trucks jumping like 6 feet into the air. the car went super high...this thing is awesome...

these are the pic's i was talken about that are dkov's

[morfeeis]

where did everbody go??????

[navspecwar]

im here. (thanx for the rally, "santa")

[Turboduck02]

i wanna rally car! I like the scale appearance :) Only if I could spark some interest here. That'd be fun. 4wd... oh man

[navspecwar]

DONT WANT ONE! GET ONE!:D

[Fetztang]

did any body see the freestyle rc video they jump one off a roof,down sairs,flip it like crazy, and smash into curbs at full speed. and the only thing to brake was the battery it got ripped out of the car

[navspecwar]

the xxxmain.com freestyle vid?

[RustlerBoy]

who likes the rally? im getting one as soon as i come up with 150. I like the subaru and the focus. Wht u guys think?

[navspecwar]

i'd have to say subaru. either way you got colin mcrae drivin:p

[RustlerBoy]

Hey, i need some new batts. Whatcha think between these choices? I have a peak charger, and a timed charger, but the peaker wont charge nimh, so choose wisely

Team Orion 3000 matched
Team Orion Rocket 2400
Peak Performance 2400 packs for E-maxx(2 pair)
Integy matched 2400's with 420+ runtime

I race stock, but just got a mod motro to have fun with, and i need runtime, but also something i can race with form y P2k

[Soya]

Integy 2400's for sure. I've got Integy's matched cells in a stick pack and run time stretches forever. My D4 16*2 makes crazy power with it, too:D :D :D

[Izzy]

RS4 Rallys are great! My first hobby quality car was a Rally. There great to drive in areas where the roads aren't that great and a normal sedan would get scrapped up fast (potholes, large cracks, etc.). This is great for me since I live out in the country where the road has gone to pot. The car also handles a little grass well too when I occasionally drift off the road. I've got the Impereza with a speed gems ruby (16T), Novak Fusion esc,and shiny CVDs.

[4W Drifter]

Rallies rock. Ive had my RS4 Rally for a year now and have thuroughly enjoyed it. I moved to a house on a dirt road with a short driveway so I had nothing else to run. I was reluctant to get a rally at first but have not regretted it one bit. I run a 17 turn Speed Gems2 motor and use 1700 stick packs with stock gearing (31/90) and can get a solid 9 minutes of run time. Not to mention the 35mph drifts around corners (hence the name).
One word of advice though. If you get a mod motor, make sure you invest in some universals. Those axles get torqued quick!
P.S. RC10T truck bodies are a perfect fit if you want that truck look for your Rally. (If you can find one)

[slipstream3d]

My RS4 Rally makes a bit of noise in the front end- a sort-of loud clicking every now and then. It does it when the wheels are turning, the suspension is being pushed down by me, or the steering is working. I'm guessing this is the front dogbones, definately not the shocks or the wheels or the belt skipping. I just finished building it.

Any ideas? Or does it just need to be 'broken in'?

[trxstr1961]

if your wanting the truck look, try protoform checvy silverado body, those r SWEET *** BODIES!

I have a rs4 sport and want another truck body, thinking of going the chevy route:D

[greenmuse]

i just recently purchased my rally and i love it! its hands down the most fun ive had with an rc,its almost unstopable,unless it gets high centered on a rock.i got a pugeot 206 bodied one,but have yet to paint it,im using a butchered protoform 190mm focus body,its so dang ugly.

the noise might be a lack of lubrication in the diffs.take em down,and relube it

[navspecwar]

mine's been makin that noise for around 20 runs. the first time i heard it, i carefully looked at everything, nothing was wrong, so i kept driving it. havent had a single problem.

[CK9887]

my electric rs4 made that clicking noise in the front and it was the screw came loose out of the differential and was hitting the differential casing. Its happened twice now. Will locktite solve this?

Heres a picture of my hpi.

[microrcdude]

Locktite small screw threadlock is your best bet

[Signguy]

Does anyone out there want to get rid of an electric RS4 Rally? I'm looking for a rolling chassis, doesn't have to be anything special. I need a winter project car.

[momosport]

I raced w/ DKOV and the Rally is Such an incredible machine. Several of the hardcore offroaders even gave it a try. It was a blast.

For more info on the rally, visit:

http://www.rcrally.com
OR
*edit*
Guess RCCA doesn't like my link. view Profile for site info.

www AccessRC CJB net


here is a pic from one of our slow nite of racing.

http://www.rcrally.com/Events/IMAG0017.JPG




Momo

[Laxman]

Dude, I love my rally car. I got it used off EBAY. When I got it, it was beat to hell. but it had the graphite chassis....which turned out to be cracked in the back. Well, I fixed that with some pieces of nickel and liberal amounts of epoxy and have yet to have a problem with the chassis since. It also came with short shocks and an extra set of tires, a bunch of spare parts and a motor. Not too bad of a deal since I was looking for a fixer upper. I got a new Exo VI body, X-pattern tires, installed the short shocks, got hpi green springs, a ball diff that I put up front, a slipper clutch, graphite upper deck, Garnet Speedgem motor, with a Tekin 412 running off of a Trinity 2400 Sanyo racing pack. Right now its lowered for street racing, but it doesnt take long at all to set it up for some off road abuse on baseball diamonds and such. and can I just say....I JUST LOVE DRIFTING! Hell, it drifts just fine on asphalt..... And pics to follow in the future....

[holshotracer]

i am thinking about getting a rally. since i'm in michigan and now we have snow i was wonder how does rs4 rally handles in the white stuff. you see full size rallie in snow so i think that it would be fun:D also the rrp top shaft works great i have one on my rs4 mini

[twisted]

i have a rs4 rally and when i first got it i ran it bone stock.i was not impressed with its handling chararistics so i moded it.in my oppinion the stock shocks were the problem in me trying to achieve my offroad glorry. i took some associated .71 shocks and made some custome shock towers to acomadait the longer shock. works so much better now! sorry for the bad spelling :mad:

[Dirt Dog R/C]

How tough is the rs4 rally

[twisted]

its pretty tuff,the only thing i ever broke was the belt,it didnt break i just stripped it.

[Dirt Dog R/C]

Im going to get one today:D what kind of moter do u guys use? I was thinking about puttin a trinity speedgem pro 15t titanite in mine

[twisted]

hey dirt dog, i am using a speed gem 12 turn double.very fast,just watch for overheating! goodluck

[Dirt Dog R/C]

I just called my friend from my club to bring his losi rally weopen so we could race tonight on our DIRTDOG track:D

[twisted]

hey dirt dog, together already?

[Dirt Dog R/C]

Thats right Twisted already. I just got done racing 20 min ago this is one of the tuffest cars I have ever had. I was jumping it about 8 feet in the air And dint break anything. Oh yeah do u have any hop-ups yet?

[NitroCrackers]

im soon goin to be a rally owner. im buying one off of topfeuler. the only fear i have of buying used cars is stripped screws and screw holes. some people have an overtightning habit. but ill trust him. does anybody know him?

[twisted]

dirt dog, the only hop ups i have are custome made. i wanted a better shock and all i had were associated .71 shocks.they are to long for the stock shock towers so i custome made some out of g10 fiberglass.the car jumps and handles alot better now.more like a buggy than a touring car. now its a real rally!!lol

[Dirt Dog R/C]

Thats cool

[rcfreakofnature]

hey people this fourm is to help me think or that to do to my rs4 rally car when i get it show alot of pics plez

[seise]

Still putting mine together. Need to finish body and electrics. Would also like ideas on what to dao, i.e. setups for street vs. off road etc.

[rcfreakofnature]

when u get it does it come all unasembled

[Rushevaderacer]

Yeah you have to build it

[RS4rally1124]

holshot i also am in Mi near detroit and yes it does handle in the snow. my friend and i both race on homemade snow tracks. just make sure that you have good condition rally tires and have fun.

everyone else i am still in love with this thing and i am thinking of making a custom chassis. what do you think are the weak points of the stock chassis i can make to go away. another cool addition is it will have an attached or molded in bottom dirt gaurd to kepp out dust and with the top dirt gaurd it shoud make a tight seal.


JT

[twisted]

i have no problems with the stock chassis.if anything the top plate is to weak,flexes to much.

[4W Drifter]

dbl post

[4W Drifter]

mine

[4W Drifter]

another pic
here (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=101420)
and check this (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35827&highlight=rs4+and+rally) out too

[atm92484_3]

Not to be a tool guys, but theres a RS4 Rally thread going in the Vehicles Forum.

RS4 Rally Thread (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35827&perpage=25&pagenumber=2)

[4W Drifter]

tool!







j\k :p

[rcfreakofnature]

well dude i didnt notic it, and people how fast do they go
:cool:

[momosport]

holshotracer,

As far as snow ( or any wet stuff) Be sure you cover your electronics REALLY REALLY good. Heat will be a factor, so be aware of heating. My buddy Rob (ROBSTOYS) did an article a while back on a site about waterproofting the rally. Something about a breadbag, I'll try and find it and post it here.

Twisted:
Yeah, thats one of the complaints we had too. If you are lucky enough to find an "Origional" RS4 Graphite upper chassis brace, it helps alot. Its long since Discontinued, but check in parts bins at your LHS. I think i have a pic.

For others:
As far as Motor recomendations, at our track for Rally class (see pic) we ran stock motors and most everyone ran the P2Ks. They worked really well. Depending on conditions, Id say don't go much lower than a 15t.
Be sure you upgrade the motor plate. Definately worth it.
Part #A789 Purple
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/a789.jpg

A248 Origional
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/parts/a248hsm.jpg

Another good option ( for thiose who race on tracks) is the slipper clutch. A must for packed offroad tracks and running in the street.

Check out the following:
TOP FIVE Hop-ups for HPI RS4 Rally!
By Unanimous count, and not in any particular order, the TOP FIVE best hop-ups for HPI's venerable RS4 Rally!

1. Heat Sink Motor Plate - HPI Part# A248 - Silver or #A789 - Purple Anodized
2. Robinson Racing One-piece Top-shaft - Part# RRP 1527
3. Slipper Clutch - HPI Part# A507
4. MIP CVDs - Shiny Preferred - Part# 1307 Front Wide and #1309 Rear Wide
5. IF you can still find it, the ORIGINAL RS4 Carbon Graphite Upper Chassis Plate!

Hope this helps


MOmo

[momosport]

Thought I would share for anyone who might doubt the Rally and its ability.

This is a shot taken durring our points series race. The car (Driven by DKOV) is jumping a QUAD that was about 15 feet in length. ( Insert Dukes of hazard Horn here)
(From quad start to end) Most everyone in Rally class could clear the Quad, Which is more than I could say for most Stock classes.

<-- Roughly 15 feet-->
____/`\__/`\__/`\__/`\_______


http://www.rcrally.com/Events/IMAG0013.JPG

[Laxman]

For any of you who wants one, I believe I have an extra graphite upper deck. email me if you are interested.
dclaxman@yahoo.com

Also, what would a Robinson Racing One-piece Top-shaft do for my rally RS4?

See one of my previous posts for what my car is equiped with.

[twisted]

momo, nice pic and thanks for all the info.we dont have any offroad tracks around here so all i do is bash my rally.i would like to race it though.i only have really raced dirt oval (for 10yrs).

[holshotracer]

i don't remember where but i,ve read that the gearing for the rally is for a 17 turn and higher. i got the rrp top shaft in my rs4 mini because the pin stripped the pulley, and it doesn't seem to skip belts as easy.

[Compudude_y2k2]

shouldnt you know by now that that question is dumb.
IT DEPENDS ON ALMOST EVERYTHING
They can go anywhere from 9.125 to 61.64 mph

[twisted]

i have a rrp top shaft in my mt ,cant find one for the rally as of yet.

[Laxman]

I have never had any problems with my belt skipping. and i'm running a 13T

[rcfreakofnature]

yea srry man i thougt it was rtr, but how fast does urs go

[Dirt Dog R/C]

Mine goes 42.6 mph with A hacker moter.

[twisted]

that sounds pretty cool.

[Dirt Dog R/C]

Hay twisted do u have any monster trucks?

[twisted]

hey dirt dog at the moment i only have an electric rs4 mt but i have had them all.heres a short list:
1.tmaxx
2.emaxx
3.jps clodbuster
4.thunder tech racing stampede
5.nitro mt
6.nitro pede

what have you had? (prolly should only talk rally here)

[Dirt Dog R/C]

I have 1.Two T-maxxes 2.Hpi savage 3.terra crusher 4.custum monster pirate 5.New era models clod 2000 6.electric pede 7.nitro pede 8.wild digger 9.mad force bought for $250.00 10. txt-1 my friend bought me 11.Duratrax mt pro These are just my monster trucks:D :D

[momosport]

The RRP top shaft is a one piece unit and i think it improves the smoothness. It flows better IMO. As someone said, they lost the pin, no extra parts with the RRP.

Robinson Racing One-piece Top-shaft - Part# RRP 1527.

Yeah, the track was sweet. It was a tough track thats for sure.

DC

Can you send me a pic? How much you asking, email me.



MOmo

[twisted]

hey dirt doug, i was thinking of getting a terra crusher or mad force.if you ever sel one of them lmk!

[ViperR]

Sorry to bud in, but I was wondering what a "Rolling Chasis" is?
I just got my Rallye w/ Lancer body and will be keeping it stock for now, but installing a Green Machine 3 motor, green springs in Rr & reds in Fr.
I might install 4mm shock limiters inside the shocks to lower COG and will also be able to fit touring bodies on it.
I was also suggested to scrap the Z-Link at the servo saver arms and install HPI Pro2 arms w/purple (short) ball links. This way the steering is tighter and no slop develops when the Z-Link starts wearing a bigger hole in the plastic.
But, anyway, whats' a "Rolling Chasis"?

[twisted]

viper r, a rolling chassis is just that.its when you have a car thats complete except the electronics...motor . servo and speedo.just a chassis that roles. :D

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all


I currently have an Associated T3 and looking to move into the Rally field which will enable me to easily switch between On-Road and mild Off-Road settings. I am not planning on racing at this time.

I would like to know your thoughts on this car. Is it worth approx $160 (Tower Hobbies kit LXBSX4) out of the box or are there some must hop-ups which are needed such as Ball Diff, Slipper Clutch (is it needed on 4wd)?

Thanks for your thoughts.



Report this post

[twisted]

well its a very good car if you want to do some on and offroad.the car box stock is very good. i did get the slipper for mine just becuase i like big air and when you come down out of the sky it can be a shock to the drive train.the only thing i did not like were the shocks.they work fine but in my oppinion they are to small for serious offroad.

[momosport]

The reason i got my rally was so i could eliminate my RS4MT and RS4 sport.

THe rally is an excellent choice for dual purpose. You might consider getting a set of onroad shocks, if your REALLY want to race it onroad. OR the easier fix is to use the shock limiters that come in the kit to stiffen the springs. The problem w/ stock springs at stock height makes for a huge amount of Chassis roll. stiffening it up will eliminate that.

out of the box or are there some must hop-ups which are needed such as Ball Diff, Slipper Clutch (is it needed on 4wd)?

I wouldn't go with the ball diff, the stock one is just fine. Its overkill for Rally. I personally like the slipper. It might be worthwhile. For other hop-ups, read my post above.

Welcome to Rally!


Momo

[microrcdude]

MOmo, i've seen you race. You car screems. you passed me ONCE!
I raced a mark pavidis replica.

[ViperR]

To lower your ride height without buying new shocks is to install internal shock limiters inside the shock bodies. The shorter shock travel will compress the springs even more for a stiffer touring-like ride (I actually install the harder green Rallye springs) and will lower the chasis ground clearance. It's a great compromise between a full clearance Rallye and a RS4 touring. It won't roll as much, but won't scrape the street with too little clearance.
You will also have the choice of using those RS4 type bodies that won't normally fit on the un-modified Rallye. I've done dozens of HPI Taurus' in NASCAR decals and also HPI F-150s' in NASTruck decals. Fit's great since the limiters were installed. I also use the NASCAR type black rims and street tires.
The Rallye kit comes with these limiters on tree #6817 (you get 4 of these trees' in the kit). Use the ones that will give you the clearance you desire. Most people want 1/2', but some desire 3/4" just in case of rough neighborhood streets.
Been modifying Rallyes' and doing bodies for years and I can help set you up.
Sorry about the above post, I hope I didn't come across as a newbie and mislead anyone. I'm just new to this forum.

[twisted]

hey viper r welcome to the forum!hey i have been into rc for more then 10 yrs and somtimes i hear somthing i have never new befor. i have even worked in larg hobby shop for 4 yrs and some of the things you see/hear will knock ya silly lol.

[ViperR]

Thanks for the welcome. If I can ever be of assistance for anything on the Rallye, let me know. I know of several things you should do, many things you can do (but, not really needed) and some things I would never do,
from my experience with the Rallye.
Can't wait to join in the fun. I'm hoping to learn a few things myself.

[Rinkrat99]

Do any of you know when the new HPI Rally Sprint will be available in the US?

Thanks

[twisted]

hpi is offering parts for it on there site in there online store. so maybe its available. i really dont know.:confused:

[NitroCrackers]

do you think 290 shipped is a good price for this

3100778868

\
\\\
\\\\\
\\\\\\\
that is the item number, its on ebay...
///////
/////
///
/


:cool:

[NitroCrackers]

aaaaaa, phooy, heres a link


http://**************/ws/*******************************3100778868



hpi rally (http://**************/ws/*******************************3100778868)

[NitroCrackers]

ohhhh... i think cause its an ebay site it wont work at rcca:o :confused:

[momosport]

Originally posted by microrcdude
MOmo, i've seen you race. You car screems. you passed me ONCE!
I raced a mark pavidis replica.

You race at Amain? Hmmm. Im shocked I was only able to pass you once, must have been a bad battery pack! J/P.

The economy hasn't been good for me this year and finding work is hard. I have had to cut back on extra spending which unfortunately has meant little to no Racing this year.

My TC3 will be back in force come summer. Im looking to run more nitro as well. What do you race in the winter? Are you a regular at the Friday nite races?


MOmo

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Originally posted by slipstream3d
My RS4 Rally makes a bit of noise in the front end- a sort-of loud clicking every now and then. It does it when the wheels are turning, the suspension is being pushed down by me, or the steering is working. I'm guessing this is the front dogbones, definately not the shocks or the wheels or the belt skipping. I just finished building it.

Any ideas? Or does it just need to be 'broken in'?

check the dog bones, the stock ones rub when you make tight turns, change them out and get new diifs, the ball diffs 32t i think it is, and it will run great. your rally will have more run time

[twisted]

my rally makes a squeeking from the front dog bones.i did everything to find out what it was,even thought it was a bearing but could not find anything.after reading the above post maybe its my dogbones too. :o

[microrcdude]

I race a B3 that is tricked out, and I'll be there this friday. I'll be in buggy novice, because it is my first off-road race.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

am i the only one???? the shocks that came with my hpi rally leak all the time! is this normal or is it just me? they dont leak badly just when i push them down

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

my rally

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

...

[twisted]

hey jimmy, it sounds like you might of built them wrong.were do they leak from top or bottom? i replaced my shocks just becuaes i dont think they provid adiquit suspension travel for off road. i know from past experience if you do not trim off all the flash on the shock parts when assembling them it can cause leaks. give me a little more detail about your problem and i might be able to help you out.

[twisted]

jimmy one more thing, nice job on the inner body! :D

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

they leak from the bottom. i assembled them the exact way the book tells me too. then agian the book told me to adjust the tie rods all wrong so who knows hu. here is a pic of them.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

and thanks on the comp on the inner body:D

[twisted]

ya those look like the bottom seals are leaking.if it s not a problem i would get a new set of shocks not that there is anything wron with the stock one im just not a big fan.check to see if any of the orings ripped when you put them in.its either that or there is flashing left over from the plastic trees. good luck
!!

[ViperR]

When you built the shocks, did you marr the piston rods with a pair of pliers? This would certainly rip the lower O-rings quickly and leak very early (just takes a few strokes of the piston and it just takes a little marring). I've repaired many of these "mishaps" that people bring to me.
I've also seen the Rallye's kit shocks last a long time with no leaking and that was due to a perfectly built shock that had no marks on the rod. The manual that HPI has on the Rallye shows just a piece of tape between the rod and the pliers and believe me, tape is too thin and rips away easily.
What I use is a $5 tool made of brass (softer than the rod steel) and makes perfect shocks every time.
Disassemble your shocks and "feel" for any burrs on the rod. Even a small one will rip the O-rings.

[twisted]

viper good points. when i build shocks i use the cutting part of pliers to grab on inbetween the threads on the bottom of the shaft. the orings dont pass over that area.

[momosport]

WTG ViperR That was my thinking.

I found that when threading on the shock shaft ends, I use heavy paper or rubber band to protect the shock shaft. Scratched pistons are one of the main reasons for leaky shocks.

You might also take them apart and check to see that all the O-Rings are seated properly.

MICRO-
I'll try and make it up. I might break out the XX4 to run but I doubt it. You race a B3? interested in buying a used one? We'll talk off the board!



MOmo

[ViperR]

Something else to check on those leaking shocks: besides the correct placement of the O-rings, see if the bottom cap that holds the O-rings on is snapped tight and that you used 2 O-rings. I've repaired shocks that were leaking only to find that the builder used only 1.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

i took them apart and dont feel any grooves, i am going to drain the fluid and check the o rings. i raced my rally agianst 1/10 scale cars with .12 nitro engines, man i did goo i placed 3!!! i took some pics i am going to see if my boy can email them to me since he took them while i raced. the only down fall to racing gas cars when you got a light electric is they banged the@#^^%$ out of me. my upper deck cracked and my body got shredded!! lol its ok the satisfaction of beating all the rest of the gas cars was just a great feeling, they gave me my respect for runnning that rally!!:D

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

it was all off road jumps the whole nine. i am going to buy a 1/8 scale ofna mbx, let me know if you guys think this is a nice car!

[mikey-subru]

Originally posted by jayskiia
does anyone have one? have you seen one? my lhs tells me they wont go on dirt or jump, so whats the point? i want one but i want to know what to expect. get one they are brill :D if you can't count on them then you can count on nottin they can do ramp me and my m8's had a comp and i got first in a jump!!!!!!!!!!!!

[mikey-subru]

Originally posted by RustlerBoy
who likes the rally? im getting one as soon as i come up with 150. I like the subaru and the focus. Wht u guys think? subaru i spent nearly £300 on it because it my fave car. i must admit i have a focus and they are decent and remember get a new shell for fifty quid from my dads shop if you get a focus coz they are crap shells get anova ford one coz my focus one cracked or my dad will repair it. Does ne1 think audi tt shells are ne good?

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

the only problem i have is my upper deck. man that thing shatters every time i hit a jump wrong or smack into another car, dam man it is like 9 bucks each time. does anybody know where i can buy a stronger one? my pro 2 upper deck is solid, i crashed way harder in my pro 2 and the only thing that caught damage is the body, wich is kool, cause the car still runs. the body is weak on the rally. hopefully they have carbin fiber frames or something that is better, if any body knows a website that sells it at a decent price please let me know i want to beat some more .12, they are heckling me cause they say i am a light weight, true but not so true:D

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

:mad:

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

:mad:

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

as you can see the body of the car took very little damage! just the upper deck!!:eek:

[louis deviney]

the car is good and it will jump and will take on dirt. try to find areview and you should be set.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

try to find what?:confused:

[ViperR]

I think louis was saying "a review" and mispelled it.

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all

OK I have finally redecided which car to buy for Valentine's Day. Instead of the TC3 I am now buying the HPI RS4 Rally since I do live on a dirt road and this is where my primary play time will be.

Which MPI CVD's work on the front and rear of the car?

Which Universal fits?

I guess I should be looking for the WIDE 200 mm either CVD's, Universals, or DogBones. Is this correct?

Are there any other Rally kits available from HPI that have hop-ups?


Have there been any parts more susceptible to damage than others?

What Hop-Ups do you reccomend.

Thanks

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

buy a carbon fiber upper deck for it.

[Jason C]

A slipper clutch is a great hop-up as it will protect your belts and pulleys from sudden shocks. Also, turnbuckles are nice to have so you can make easy toe/camber adjustments.

If you want to save $30, just get CVDs for the front as the rear hubs don't have to move as much as the front. Yup, you'll need the wide CVDs. For the drivetrain, if HPI hasn't changed the kit gearing, you should go with a smaller pinion gear. The stock gearing was 31/90 - a bit tall for any motor (it's not even listed on the manual's gear ratio chart). For a stock motor, somewhere around 26-28 teeth should work and for mod motors, add 10 to the number of turns to get an approximate tooth count (so a 10 turn motor can use a 20 tooth pinion, get it?).



I took my rally out on a skating rink today for some ice racing with my buddy (also has a rally). I had made some ice tires by pushing small staples through a set of Kyosho rally tires and shoe-gooing them to the tire securely. I got pretty decent traction on ice, but sliding was still plenty. That was pretty fun.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

that does sound fun, do you have any pics?

[slipstream3d]

Do you have the part number for the front CVDs? I've got $100 burning a hole in my pocket :D and I'd like to see if my LHS has them, but their website is so confusing it's much better if you have a part #.

[Rinkrat99]

I downloaded the excel spreadsheet for the HPI optional parts but I can't access it from work.

Towers p/n LXAW33 front wide and LXAW35 rear wide

[Rinkrat99]

I am ordering the HPI RS4 Rally on Friday from my LHS. I think the Suzuki body will be my choice. The first upgrades I will go with will probably be tires and rims for on-road so I can go either dirt road or parking lot.

Next would be the CVD's then the shock towers of graphite.

[Jason C]

Originally posted by JIMMYBANGBANG
that does sound fun, do you have any pics?

Sorry, no pics. We were having too much fun sliding on the ice that we forgot a digicam. I'll try to take some pics next time we go out.


Rinkrat,

I forgot to mention another hop-up that is a good idea. Robinson Racing Products (RRP) has a one-piece aluminum top shaft that replaces the stock one. The stock one is simply a steel shaft with plastic pulleys secured by crosspins. Eventually, wear will cause some slop to develop in the top shaft and can even result in the breaking in one of the pulleys. The RRP shaft is machined from solid alloy so it spins true with no slop. This probably won't be too much of an issue if you get the slipper slutch.

Also, the kit tires are not bad, but can wear out very quickly if you run on tarmac/concrete. I prefer Kyosho's Alpha rally tires. They are pretty soft and grippy so you should get some inserts with them. Here's a link:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSE39&P=7

[momosport]

Review this thread for a previous post I made about parts to get.

For CVDs, We (those who raced rally) found the Shiny CVDs are the best choice.

The Robinson top shaft is one of the top 5 upgrades to get.



MOmo

[Laxman]

how does the Robinson Top Shaft improve performance? like whats it do compared to the original?

[Jason C]

You may notice slightly better acceleration and get the holeshot a tad quicker since it has no slop like the stock piece. Basically you'll get better power delivery to the wheels.

[firefly21]

http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

Under Model Car
HPI
RS-4 NOT RS-4 Rally

This is the original top deck, 2 more post vs. stock, a ton stiffer, I use these exclusively and never had a problem on 2 rally cars.

A must have.

[Rinkrat99]

Hi Jason

I checked Robinson Racing Products and did not find the piece you are talking about. We are talking electric aren't we?

[firefly21]

Rinkrat99
The top shaft has been discontinued by RR

[NitroCrackers]

i just got my rally, i just got my rally, i just got a rally du du du du du du du. lemme tell u about it, all the hopups

heatsink motor plate
aluminum rear bulks
aluminum front bulks
aluminum steering hubs
aluminum rear bubs
and finally graphite shock towers
my next hopup is gonna be a graphite front brace and mabye a 2 speed, does anybody run the 2 speed in their rallies?
wwwwaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhoooooooooooooo... and i also gots my tip published in rcca, its the offroad realism. oh and it also helps keep the dirt out of the car while keeping the engine cool.
cya later

[Rinkrat99]

I was talked out of the Suzuki body by Jason since the front is very low to the ground and will almost always hit the dirt around here. So I will order the Mitsubishi Lancer IV and then purchase a 2nd body for on-road probably a Viper, Ferrari GT or Porsche.

Is it me or is the manual at least the online kinda childish? The Associated ones are top notch and the Losi's are well bareable.
Should I expect some confusion with the HPI manual?

[ViperR]

Firefly21,
You are correct in saying that RRP has discontinued the alum topshaft/pulley for the electrics. Besides the full shaft/pulley combo, RRP also made separate pulleys to be used with the kit's steel shaft.
If you go on RRP's web, don't be comfused on their RS4 pulleys. these are for nitro only and will not fit on any HPI elec's. All they offer now is nitro parts for HPI (pinions are still made, though).
If you mostly on-road, the steel/plastic kit set-up lasts a good while. If you off-road and bash, then a slipper clutch will make them last longer.

[slipstream3d]

Originally posted by Rinkrat99
Should I expect some confusion with the HPI manual?

I didn't have any trouble with my RS4 Rally (the instructions are nearly identical, if not the same as, the ones on the HPI site), and I've never built an R/C before. Unless you're dumb :D :D I don't think you'll have any troubles with the manual.

[Rinkrat99]

Hi Slipstream

I ordered my kit today but the LHS doesn't know if the kit is available. I have to wait till Friday and if its not in then its going to go to Tower Hobbies. I wanted to at least give the LHS some business.

The online manual seemed a bit confusing but thats also without the parts in front of me. I guess I just go used to Associated's

[slipstream3d]

Yay, my LHS can get them...

MIP1126 CVD HPI RS4 Front Wide $38.99
(www.greathobbies.com if you're wondering. You can order online both in Canada and the USA [in the USA it comes from an American warehouse, too], plus they have two stores: Stratford, PEI, and Edmonton, AB. Hmm. Interesting choice of a second location... but hey, it's where I live :D )

Canadian dollars, of course, so that comes out to $24.89 USD... less than Tower :D. Plus, I don't have to pay shipping! Of course, Tower keeps 'em in stock but my LHS will have to order them in, so no matter who I go with I'll have to wait.

[NitroCrackers]

anybody have a graphite upperdeck for sale u can email me at craighayes@comcast.net

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Originally posted by firefly21
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

Under Model Car
HPI
RS-4 NOT RS-4 Rally

This is the original top deck, 2 more post vs. stock, a ton stiffer, I use these exclusively and never had a problem on 2 rally cars.

A must have.

sweet!!!!! yea my rally has been out of buisness for a while, i am going to try to race it once we are done with our inspection, this thing is killing my fun. sorry just venting:D but thanks for the info, it was helpfull.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Originally posted by firefly21
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/

Under Model Car
HPI
RS-4 NOT RS-4 Rally

This is the original top deck, 2 more post vs. stock, a ton stiffer, I use these exclusively and never had a problem on 2 rally cars.

A must have.

sweet!!!!! yea my rally has been out of buisness for a while, i am going to try to race it once we are done with our inspection, this thing is killing my fun. sorry just venting:D but thanks for the info, it was helpfull.

[NitroCrackers]

mmmmmk, how much does that stuff cost in dolllas? nobody seems to be running the 2 speed... oh well. :mad: :p

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all

Does anyone have a replacement p/n for the HPI A179 23mm or A275 34mm turnbuckles? It seems that someone should have a standard hex style rather than the bullet hole versions.

Thanks

[Rinkrat99]

I ended up getting the Turnbuckles from Associated. 6 1" and 2 1 1/8"

[Josh11886]

Which is better, the tamyia TBO1, or RS4 Rally? And why? Im drying to decide between them but cant. Any insight is welcome.

[Rinkrat99]

I already have a RC10T3 and decided I need a 2nd car and was looking at the Associated TC3 and the Losi XXX-S but decided on the Rally RS4 Suzuki because most of my running would be on the dirt and offroad would be a secondary decision. The TC3 has a Rally kit but you may have some problems with dirt and pebbles entering the body and possibly corrupting the steering and/or the gears.

I do not know much about the Tamiya. someone else may be able o provide some insight.

My rally is due here on Tuesday and I will start the build process

[NitroCrackers]

mmmmk, everybody ignore the cracker...... "poop"

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Originally posted by Rinkrat99
I already have a RC10T3 and decided I need a 2nd car and was looking at the Associated TC3 and the Losi XXX-S but decided on the Rally RS4 Suzuki because most of my running would be on the dirt and offroad would be a secondary decision. The TC3 has a Rally kit but you may have some problems with dirt and pebbles entering the body and possibly corrupting the steering and/or the gears.

I do not know much about the Tamiya. someone else may be able o provide some insight.

My rally is due here on Tuesday and I will start the build process

show some pics of the hpi when you get it all done, i always wanted to see how the suzuki looks. yea they show it on the web sites but as most people know, it dosent look the same..lol

thanks:D

[microrcdude]

i have a suzuki body. i fount it in a dumpster, and it looks so cool

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all

Like I said previously, the kit is a gift from my wife for Valentines Day. I am planning on painting the main portion of the body Red and I think the spoilers will be black.

I have been toying with PhotoShop and importing decals for the car. I think I will try using the mirror image of the decal and placing them inside before the paint.

Otherwise, I am still not sure if I will use any other color or paint mask since I have never doen a mask before.

[slipstream3d]

I've never painted a RC before, ever, and I'm doing two-tone blue and gold for the Subaru Impreza 1998 that came with my Rally!

I'm using that liquid mask stuff, and an airbrush. I've got it masked out but it's become too cold here (-15 celcius) so it's only abot 10 degrees in our garage- I'm guessing this is too cold to use Faskolor paints, right?

[Rinkrat99]

Slipstream

Where in the world are you located that it is -15C outside?

[holshotracer]

i've sprayed pactra acryl at about 20degrees freinhet. the problem was my hands would freeze because of the air going into the body and coming back out. and i was wearing gloves.

[ViperR]

Don't even think of spraying a body unless the temp is at least 50 deg. The coldest I've ever sprayed was 55 and bright sun to bake the paint. Any thing less and the paint won't dry properly between coats. It has to bake on between coats and the sun is the best. I've seen several jobs where it was done too cold and the paint will shatter off the lexan no matter if it's months later during the summer. Believe me, bodies are a side buisness. Just gonna hafta wait.

[slipstream3d]

Thanks, VipeR. That's good to know.

BTW I'm in Edmonton, Alberta (Canada, of course). We'd been having unusually warm weather for the season (+5C) until I decided it was time to paint my car... the next day, guess what? It's -20C. Yippie.

[RS4rally1124]

hey guys.

my rally has been out of commision and while i am waiting i am thinking of hopups. first i would like to know if there is a better lower chassi i can buy. my lhs says that the carbon chassis is dicontinued but they have the upper chassis. i am also thinking upper shaft replaced and slipper. i dont run an inner body, does it make a diff.

i am also considering making my own chassis. something like 2mm aluminum with carbon inserts to make it solid but lighter. do u think that 2mm is light enough and strong enough for the rs4.

one more thing. what company do u think is the best for hop ups. my lhs carries killer amounts of rally hopups because that is all that one of the managers drives. his only other car is a super rally but he is waiting to try and make a.21 conversion.

thanx

JT

[Bird_of_Fire]

Anyone else have any overheating problems with the rs4 rally when you use the innerbody? I'm running a p2k2 pro, futaba 330 ESC, 3000NIMH's, and the RS4 heatsink. How do you combat the heat problem when using the innerbody? I was thinking of cutting a vent hole in the innerbody just above the motor and using a screen of some sort to keep all the big rocks and such out. Anybody try this before? Does this problem happen with other people? Help please!! :)

[ViperR]

I don't use the top portion of the inner body set-up, just the lower to protect the bottom chasis. Rock & pebbles will gather in there, but the motor stays way, way cooler. Been doing this for a long time and I haven't ruined a belt or pulley yet.
After bashing, just remove the bottom half and shake & dislodge the grit. My motor (heat damage) is more important than a $4 pulley kit.
I also, cut nitro spec holes in the body (windshield,drivers window,etc.) for extra cooling.
Running a GM3 and 2000's and motor is very cool after a run.
Nitro spray (plastic & motor friendly) does wonders for removing all the dust that coats the inner goodies.
The bodies, I just take a damp papertowel and wipe the grime away.
Looks new after this.

[NitroCrackers]

a great motor for the rally is the reedy bad maxx 19 turn motor. you talk about torque, i was spinnin me slicks on the blacktop doin donuts and the lil thing where you go backwards, turn and just nail the gas and spin around in the other direction. its also fun to jus spin around and still be almost in the same spot, and when you get it wound up it hauls a$$. its also very easy for the motor to push the car (duh:rolleyes: ), so its easier on the motor. i got 13 mins of runtime with my 1500mah batts. kool. its a tight fit though, i was running it today and the motor doesnt even get hot. my slicks look like i've scared them with a razor blade, lol. im using a 27 tooth pinion and i think its stock gearing.

[ViperR]

That's the correct pinion (27 tooth) for use with a 19Turn (and the stock 90 tooth spur). We use a 31 pinion with ROAR 27 turn P2K2's. A 13 min run w/1500's is excellent. We barely get 8 min with the 27turn w/31 tooth.
What's your ESC and are you using the standard batt plugs or Deans or other?
Thanks!

[NitroCrackers]

im using a super rooster, and i wired the esc directly to the motor. and im using the tamiya connectors for the batts. im surprised the power it has, it spins those wheels no prob!:cool:

[NitroCrackers]

dont forget its a emaxx motor and i dont run WOT like on a racetrack, but i still nail it all the time. its geared really low for what this motor could handel, lol. when i get done running its only warm. i might try a 32 tooth pinion on it sumtime, i dunno. my car has quiet a bit of aluminum on it too, im not sure if its heavier then the plastic or not:confused: its rediculas with all the torque it has;)

[Prinler]

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1616968&uid=887958

[RS4rally1124]

prinler what chassis is that


JT

[PCC]

Looks like a Pro2 to me.

[TXTRCR]

i was thinking about getting another rc car or truck, and i saw the HPI RS4 Electric RALLY CAR with the Escudo body is it any good. i see its belt drive will there be a problem with it picking up rocks or leaves in the belts cause my bashing grounds have a lot of leaves and rocks. i have all the required stuff, speedo, radio, and motor. 159 isnt a bad price i guess. so if any one has seen this car in action or one like it, or has one them selves please let me know what you think and what problems you have had with it so i can be aware because i probably will buy it.

[airsus]

I just got my Rally a couple weeks ago and it's a great car, but I'm going to get some HPI Pro 3 shocks for it for road racing.

What kind of on-road tires do you guys use (if you use them)? I have a set of HPI's X-pattern tires on right now and they work pretty good, altough they seem to wear fast.

Also what about motors and gearing? I have a Reedy MVP stock 27 turn motor and it 's pretty fast and gives me good runtimes. I switched the spur gear down to an 84 tooth gear, my LHS didn't have any pinion gears that were big enough.

[RS4rally1124]

i love my rally and i have had to change belts only 1 time and i dont use the inner body.( thebelt had a little problem with a 600 bb motor and 10 cells)

as for onroad it depends what conditions. i use 1 dot purple foamsfor carpet and for a prepped onroad i run various slicks.(cheapest available.) a suggestion for onroad is a graphite upper deck. it significantly stiffens the chassis and makes it handle incredibly well.

as for the overall durability i have never broken anything jumping or bashing. the only problem i have run into is walled tracks, the arms dont like hitting them. this car is the greatest i have encountered yet.(1/10 scale elec any way.)

now for my questions

1. will the mt arms and shocks fit for more travel.
2. and will the pro 2 graphite chasiis fit or do i have to make a custom graphite/Ti chassis.


thanx and enjoy running your car. if u dont have one u should.


JT

[momosport]

Originally posted by TXTRCR
i see its belt drive will there be a problem with it picking up rocks or leaves in the belts cause my bashing grounds have a lot of leaves and rocks. i have all the required stuff, speedo, radio, and motor. 159 isnt a bad price i guess. so if any one has seen this car in action or one like it, or has one them selves please let me know what you think and what problems you have had with it so i can be aware because i probably will buy it.

To answer your questions:

1) The HPI Rally is probably the most versitle RC available. Offroad to onroad and swap parts w/ the Sport 2
2) Its possible that you may get rocks and debris in the car, however you can run the undertray if you want to prevent it. I wouldn't run both halves, just the underone. the electronics will need cooling. Posted on this thread are top 5 upgrades to make to the rally to make it more bullit proof.
3) I have one and LOVE it. Very durrable, easy to get parts, and a probably the most fun car I own.
No major problems, just keep it clean. Be sure you allow the electronics to cool.
4) As for the body, I think the Escudo works well on onroad, but racing I think the sedans work best. I like the Subaru personally. Depends on where you plan to run. On the track I race on, sedans work well. Hatches work ok, but eh sedans seem more stable.

Most people will agree its a fine choice.


MOmo

[momosport]

Originally posted by RS4rally1124
now for my questions

1. will the mt arms and shocks fit for more travel.
2. and will the pro 2 graphite chasiis fit or do i have to make a custom graphite/Ti chassis.



JT 1: think the MT arms will work but you need to build the front and rear bulkheads for the MT arms to work ( I believe) NOW i have known people to build a rally from the MT chassis. Unfortunately the article is no longer on the HPI Europe forum.

2: Yes. It should be exactly the same with the Sport2 though I think the stick packs work better. What battery configuration are you using?


MOmo

[PCC]

The MT suspension will work but you will need to find a shock combination to go with it. I used Rally shocks in the front and NMT front shocks in the rear on my Nitro Mini to get a decent ground clearance.

The Pro2 and Sport2 chassis is longer between the two bulkheads than the Rally chassis by about 10mm.

[Prinler]

You guys will flip. You know how there is almost no room to mount things? I came up with a way to make a Electronics deck. Its amazing. Center all the Electronics and Covers the Belt on the top.

[Prinler]

2 more

[Prinler]

last one

[airsus]

Does anyone have HPI's 2-speed transmission (2-speed (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXM579&P=V) ). It seems a bit expensive and I was wondering if it's worth the money?

[airsus]

I accidentally double posted, but I have another question anyways so here it is. Exactly which chassis's will work with the Rally? And are there any that are a little wider than the stock lower chassis? I'd like to get my electronics as close together as possible so I can solder them together, but the stock chassis doesn't really allow for that.

[Prinler]

Hence the reson to make an electronics deck:(

[airsus]

The only thing I have on the top deck is the switch. I mounted the reciever on the right side battery holder (becuase it's right next to the antenna holder), and everything else is on the bottom.

[airsus]

Is there any way to get rid of the 2 degrees of toe in on the rear wheels?

[ViperR]

No, rear toe-in is fixed. You want that. You also want 1-2 deg toe-out at the front. Adjust camber to your likeing for track conditions.

[PCC]

Originally posted by airsus
Is there any way to get rid of the 2 degrees of toe in on the rear wheels?
When you buy the replacement rear hubs you will get two sets. The pair they suggest that you use are the 2 degree hubs (R2 and L2) while the other set is 1 degree (R1 and L1). There's an older parts tree that includes 0 degree hubs but I don't have the part number offhand.

[ViperR]

Thats right. I forgot about the tree that's made for the RS4 elec line-up (Rallye,Sport,Pro,etc.). My appologies. 2 deg is good for dirt while the 1 deg is for street if you convert and lower your Rallye for pavement.

[wiseman]

I have one and love running it more than my rc1ol3, I have been adding some of the hop up parts to it, making it lighter in weight, runs real good, added different front and rear shock towers, chnged ith front differential to a one way, runs great, powered by a Fantom team stock 27 turn engine, even get nice rooster tails from the back wheels, and a nice Saleen S7R bodie. Its 1 awesome car. Missed the HPI Challenge in Fla last year, but do on going to one soon :D

[Upstate Bob]

I'm looking to buy a motor for my new HPI Rally Focus. I've got the Futaba 330 ESC (13T limit I'm pretty sure) and I'll be running a 1800mah 6 cell stick pack.

I don't plan on racing so having a stock motor isn't a must. What is important to me though, is a quality build and at least 5 minutes of run time before a re-charge.

Has anyone found that there are any clear winners here? Brand-wise, I mean.

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all

I finally got my kit today for Valentines day. I will start the build process tonight but wanted to understand if there are any tricky or misleading instructions in the manual. Any reccomendations besides using some soap on the screw threads and building slowly and cautiously. I will also be picking up some Ball cup dust covers to add to the kit.

Anything else>

[Rinkrat99]

As I told Wiseman bu PM I am a bit dissapointed at the instructions. I think they are fair at best compared to Associated. And also Associated had better segredation of parts for each build step. This doesn't mean the car will be bad but just I thought the parts and stuff were confusing

[torque5252]

Hey,Rinkrat, do yourself a HUGE favor and get the short ballstuds and center steering link. It should be 48mm from arm hole to arm hole.
Also, use some light grease on the ramps of the servo saver, they'll stick and wreck your servo gears if they get dry and dirty, so this is a good thing to keep an eye on. Also, if you can, pick up the bearings for the steering arms. The plastic bushings SUCK.:eek: Some folks lock out the diffs with epoxy or JB weld, I've found that the front one way with a fairly tight rear ball diff works great, but I like to drift sideways all the way around corners!! LOL. Pulls itself around nicely though.( Just some thoughts. )

[Rinkrat99]

I am up to the sterring linkage and servo saver right now.

What do you mean short ball studs? The ballstuds with the kit are almost 1/2" from head to toe. I am not sure what the Center Stering link is, can either explain or give me ap/n from Tower?

I was thinking about the bearings myself. I have them on the Associated RC10T3

Thanks

[Upstate Bob]

Does the HPI rally have enough room above the motor can to slap one of these heat sinks on? My kit is in the mail and I'm about to make a Tower Order soon, I was wondering if I should pick one up.

Heatsink Link (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTC78&P=K)

[ViperR]

No room fo that heatsink at all. The motor is surrounded by the chasis,bulkhead,post & upper brace with less than a 1/4" in all directions. Best thing to do is get the heatsink motor mount (HPI) and a can that has several vent slots.
I use a Trinity can and the heatsink motor mount and all is cool. I also opted not to use the inner body shell.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Rinkrat99
I am up to the sterring linkage and servo saver right now.

What do you mean short ball studs? The ballstuds with the kit are almost 1/2" from head to toe. I am not sure what the Center Stering link is, can either explain or give me ap/n from Tower?

I was thinking about the bearings myself. I have them on the Associated RC10T3

Thanks

If you look at the instruction for the Racer 2 you will see that they replaced the Z-Bend wire with a solid plastic drag bar and short ballstuds. The ballstuds are short from the shoulder to the top of the ball, not overall length. This is because there isn't enough room under the front bulkhead extensions for normal ballstuds as the drag bar will hit the extensions. In the case of the RS4 Rally you need to come up with a turnbuckle and rod ends to make it work as the steering servo saver and the opposite link are different on the Racer 2 from the Rally and the drag link is shorter as a result.

[Rinkrat99]

Thanks for the advice. I will run it as is for now and see what happens. I can always upgrade.

It seems that the battery door latch is a weak point of the design. The latch was almost broken the first time I open/closed the latch.

Any suggestions or improvements?

Thanks

[ViperR]

The battery latch door.....mmm. I've had mine for almost 3 years now and it's still as strong as day one. My guess is a bad mold. Just buy the tree that has those parts and replace. See if your luck changes. Haven't even broken an A-arm yet. And the fellow down the block beats the living **** out of his and nothing broke as of yet.

[Rinkrat99]

Hey Viper

I just said the door latch seems weak. It may last forever who knows. Where in the world do i get a screwdriver to fit these heads? A US phillips can round the head and a European "POSI" won't fit. Thoughts?

[wiseman]

I run the heck out of mine and never broke anything, mine sits lower all the way around, hit pot holes with it and still keeps on tickin, and hauls butt, not bad for a 4wd car, :D

[Rinkrat99]

Do you have any recomendations on how to run the esc wiring and receiver wires? It seems pretty close in there.

Here is a picture of my setup so far.

d:\HPI.jpg

[Rinkrat99]

f:\HPI.jpg

[Rinkrat99]

try this again

[Rinkrat99]

Now its done

[wiseman]

I had the faith in you to build it, good job, the wiring I took a small round screw driver and wrapped the wires tight to make them curl, instead of taping them, it kept the wire over the top belt away from it and looks much neater and did the same for the sterring servo. Hope you enjoy the car, maybe later on you can add some of the hop up parts, which will improve the speed of the car, and kick butt:D

[ViperR]

Hey Rinkrat,
Your reply above mine said "The door latch almost broke the first time I used it". I got the impression it was a bad part.
Anyway, for a US Phillips to fit the screws, grind or file the tip of your driver about a 1/32" and clean up the burs at the tip with a fine needle file. I will fit perfectly and won't skip the screw slots. You'll have an excellent fit and will never hardly skip.

[Rinkrat99]

Thanks for the help. I tried using the tight wrap of the control wires but it seemed like the curl would still hit the top belt. I could be wrong but did not want to chance it either. I am not too sure if the tape will hold. The other two things I ran into tonight after the first powerup was

1) How tight should the belt tensioner be? Should the bearings be touching the belt much or little?

2) Its a real pain to use the supplied pinion. It wouldn't fit through the motor mount so I had to finagle a fit. Also I noticed the Spur gear screw to the belt gears backed out. Should I use loctite?

Tahnsk again. The Escudo will be painted Daytona Yellow and interior black.

see ya

[ViperR]

OK,
Here's the tips:
Belt tensioner; set it at 1/3 the way down. You'll move it lower as the belt streches. It's a long belt and you want it rather secure so it won't skip.
Spur gear screws; use lock-tite. It's metal screw on metal mount. Never had one loosen with lock-tite.
Pinion gear; the stock 31tooth is big and won't fit thru mount hole. Install motor first then slide on pinion and adjust pinion position and gear play.

[talon51]

WOW, when did this thread get so big!! I guess I need to check this forum more often. I've been over in the rally car/modified rally car thread in the electric forum, but its more general, not just about the HPI.
My car is out of commission right now cause I broke the chassis doing some fairly good sized jumps, but I'll have it repaired over spring break, because we're having a big rally race at Barnstormers on March 8th. Believe it or not, rally car is actually the biggest class over the winter there, and at our last rally car only race, we had 36 cars (I think...). It was out biggest turn out yet, the last big rally event had 28 cars, so the class is growing. We had drivers from all over NY, NJ, CT and PA (me) show up, and some awesome racing.
Here's the jump that broke the chasis...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid47/p5f951ae35f24ba418be3c32c5687cb69/fcc0ca4d.jpg
And a close up:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid47/pcf89bf5481f1270bb356647f36a05a8b/fcc0ca47.jpg
And of course, some snow rally action...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid47/pbf4f14e5fae0a807854009cd40265d0f/fcc0ca52.jpg

Anyone have a Super Nitro rally here??

Rinkrat99,
Your belt should actually be fairly loose, I set the tension so that when you press down on the belt, it should easily touch the upper deck. If ya make it too tight, you'll strain your motor, and shorten its life. As far as the pinion goes, I usually use between a 24 and 28 tooth pinion, depending on the track length. I NEVER use the stock 31t pinion, its WAY to high for this car. For starters, go with a 27 or 28t pinion. Loctite on the spur gear screw would probably be a good idea, too. I have a slipper clutch, so I don't have to worry about it backing out, just be sure to also check the other screws holding the spur every now and then because they come loose over time too.

Later, rally fans
SWRT RULES!!
Talon

[Laxman]

I'm really starting to get ticked off by not being able to find a chassis for this car at the stores or online ordering. Does anyone know where I might be able to find a new one?


Talon51
Hey, how are you going to fix that chassis? My graphite chassis has split too. I was thinking of 5 ton epoxy and metal bracing.

[Laxman]

Also, would a Pro2 chassis fit? If not, what would it take to fit?

[Upstate Bob]

Why not order from this guy? (http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/hpi/hpi1.html)

He has very reasonable shipping rates, and no tax unless you live in Europe (and then look - out 17% :eek: )

I'm ordering a top plate as soon as I recover from some recent Tower purchases.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Laxman
Also, would a Pro2 chassis fit? If not, what would it take to fit?
No, the Pro2 chassis is longer between the front and rear bulkheads. Using this chassis will stretch the wheelbase about 10mm.

[talon51]

Well, for now I've got it braced with an old upper deck, I've got a pic here somewhere...the only problem is it lacks lateral bracing, so the two pieces shift from side to side and up and down. I'll replace it with the stock chassis for now, but sometime spring quarter, I'm gonna take advantage of the huge machine shop they have here on campus and make a copy of the original chassis out of 3mm aluminum, and do some lightening in strategic areas, like under the bulkheads and radius the all the edges to keep the weight down and maybe give the ends of the battery holder some more protection, because at the HPI challenge this summer, I hit a joint in the boards and it bent the last 2 cells of my battery pack to a 90 degree angle and nearly destroyed the holder. I'll show you guys a diagram when I get it all laid out.

[SteveK]

If you do a lot of jumping, consider buying two chassis and doubling them up, especially if you can't find one of the 'old' upper decks. It's also good to put a fiberglass chassis under your nice new graphite one to protect it from scratches off-road.

[Upstate Bob]

Where is everyone mounting the on/off switch? I have mine on top of the battery door, towards the motor end bell.

[SteveK]

I tape mine to my ESCs: They are all on some fiberglass-like plate with holes in it so I can move them around from vehicle to vehicle with just a couple screws.

[Rinkrat99]

Anyone have a suggestion on how to get this logo onto the Suzuki body? I tried an Avery label but it is not really clear.

[Upstate Bob]

Unless you paint it on, you'll have to use something like this - >clear waterproof inkjet vinyl< (http://www.papilio.com/inkjet%20waterproof%20adhesive%20film%20media.html )

[Upstate Bob]

Can I get bigger wheels/tires for my Erally?

I'd like to fit some truck diameter tires on there to increase ground clearance, has anyone done this?

Thanks.

[supra528]

i was just wondering how fast the erallys can go???? with afairly decent motor in it.

mike

[wiseman]

I have a Fantom team motor in mine with a 1 way front axle and runs pretty good, want to get a Fantom Spec motor for it and see how much faster it can go, been playing around with gears still:cool:

[ViperR]

Hey Upstate Bob,
You really can't install truck-sized tires/wheels on the Rallye because you will upset the rollout that the drivetrain was originally designed for. This will not only put a strain on the drivetrain (diffs,belt gears,etc.), but will also make the car very slow in low-end speed. It will also strain the motor to get up to any kind of speed. The MT is best if you want truck tires.
You can raise the Rallye a bit more by shopping around for longer shock shafts, but this too has something to consider. Longer shocks mean the A-Arms will angle lower and the dogbones will pop out of there place in the axles. You will have to get longer bones as well.

[Upstate Bob]

I was kind of just figuring I would gear down the pinion, oh well, if it doesn't work it doesn't work.

Here's my car by the way, just finished the paint yesterday.

http://members.arstechnica.com/subscriptors/x/owsla/RC3.jpg

[talon51]

Lookin good, too bad it won't be so nice after you take it for a spin on some rough terrain. Rally car bodies don't last very long...the cars themselves do, so give it all its got...

[Rinkrat99]

Here's the Suzuki!

[Rinkrat99]

another one

[Upstate Bob]

It looks awesome, nice paint work. Have you run it yet? I'm waiting for my street tires to come in (should be here monday) before I run mine anymore. I took it out on the pavement the other day (all our soil is covered in snow right now) and the stock rally tires got a little fuzzy on the edges so I stopped and put her away. In the few minutes I ran it though, I have to say, I was very impressed. 17t triple Orion Orbital and it's very fast. I think I'm going to have a lot of fun with this car.

On a seperate note, how do I go about setting this up for street use? I'd like to use the same shocks as stock but use different springs. I figured I'd put some travel limiting tube inside the shock itself on the shaft. Does anyone have a good setup they'd share with me? As far as:

How long of a piece of fuel tube on each shock shaft
What springs to use F & R
What mounting holes on the shock towers


-thanks

[Rinkrat99]

Hi Bob

I haven't run it yet. I just bought a new JRX2 radio and a new Duratrax 12t Modified ESC. Its been too muddy here the past three weeks. Its been snowing then sunny = mud then snow sun mud for three weeks straight.

I will run it with a stock Firehawk motor first to get the feel then go to either a 17t or 14t motor. Need to work on gearing for 1700mAH batts.

My wife said the body is too nice to use! Thats funny.

See ya

[ViperR]

Hey UpstateBob,
I set-up my Rallye for street and here is what to do:
-Since you want a little higher ground clearance than the ultra-low RS4(Pro,Sport,etc.) for regular street asphalt, You can install an internal shock limiter (as you stated), but don't use fuel tubing. The silicon will squash and become shorter after a while and also possibly split. Use the plastic spacer tubes off tree #6817 (you get 4 of these trees with the Rallye). I used the ones that are about 1/4" in length and my Rallye now has a ground clearance of 1/2"(with lower inner body attached).
-Keep same shock placement on A-arms and Shock towers.
-I used 40wt oil.
-Green firm springs Fr & Rr. (HPI part #6737).
-Any street tire & rim you desire.
-Any 200mm body that has some fender clearance to it. I pesonally like NASCAR & NASTruck, so the Taurus,Monticarlo & all Truck bodies work well. My neighbor likes the Celica & Porshe on his lowered Rallye.
This set-up allows lower ground clearance without bottoming out like the regular HPI touring cars.

[Rinkrat99]

Hi guys,

I ran the Rally today on a parking lot with foam tires. Got 4 mins runtime with 1700 mAH batts, 27t Firehawk motor and 31t pinion.

Pretty quick. The tires did not have much grip though. The car pushed through all turns.

I had only the innerbody as my tires were too big for the Suxuki body. I ordered some Pirelli Soft compoiund tires from tower and should get them by next weekend.

The Suzuki body is not any good for Rallying. I kept hitting the front fenders into the ground at my dirt street. So what do you guys reccomend for Rallying on pretty washboard type roadways?

Mitsubishi Lancer, Ford Focus or something else like Acura NSX?:confused Thanks

The car is quick though and I think the belt has been skipping under hard turns :mad:

[heavytank2]

What I plan on doing with my rally (when I get it or convert my 1st gen sport) is take this 200mm F150 street body I have and cut the airdamn off. (There is a mold line above the bumper). To give it that Baja look. Besides, no bumper to get in the way of jumps, rocks, etc.


I already have the body is this nice 2 tone white to yellow fade. (Front to back.)

[Janders]

Rinkrat-
The lancer(red) has a custom removable front bumper, and is in VERY good condition. The impreza(white one in my movies) is my 'beater body, and is now about 1/2 superglue. I have a yellow NSX body for my street yokomo, and there is no way that it would work for rallying

4min seems short for a 27t and 1700's. I got over 5 min with 1900's on a 14T. Are you running ball bearings and an ESC?

If your car is pushing try stiffer front springs

[heavytank2]

Hey rinkrat, something random here, but you got the same reciever as me.

You got an older Futaba 2PB by chance?

Btw, SteveK, WOW, neat idea on the ESC mount, there is 2 holes next to the battery pack for mounting a plate. I always hated how the rooster had NO room to stay on there. I mean it got it wedged between the upper plate and lower plates with the heatsink. (The older revision of the rooster had that huge heatsink.)

[Rinkrat99]

Hi Heavytank

Actually, I bought a new JRX2 radio and R125 receiver for both cars last Monday. I still have 3 Futaba Magnum Jr and Sport radios and 3 receivers left. I will probably end up selling on ebay or throwing them out.

I also bought the Toyota Corolla body today.

[SteveK]

Heavytank2-

It works pretty well, the mounting plates. You can use a larger piece of servo tape to secure the ESC to the plate, and then screws and nuts to secure the plate to the upper or lower chassis. You only get a little bit of contact if you try taping it to the upper deck.

It's also much easier to move ESCs and RECs around from car to car with two screws and nuts holding them them rather than servo tape or even velcro.

For I usually 'soft mount' the receivers, putting them on a thick pad of foam and holding them down the tie-wraps or even rubber bands. Sometimes an RC10GT receiver mount is necessary.

[Rinkrat99]

I need some advice with these wheel wells. I drilled the holes per HPI. This is a Toyota Corolla body

Thanks

[momosport]

Rinkrat99

I need some advice with these wheel wells. I drilled the holes per HPI. This is a Toyota Corolla body

I think it looks fine, as long as you don't hit eh fenders when you turn, you should be ok. Its tough to get the body to line up just perfect, but i think it looks fine.


supra528
i was just wondering how fast the erallys can go???? with afairly decent motor in it.

Its been determined that with a good stock motor and batterys, an electric car can hit about 25 or so.



Well, thought I would post a pic of my Rally, thou its somewhat in retirement for the time being. RS4 Rally with Banzai GM3 motor. Fairly quick little car, one of my Favs.


MOmo

[AznJunkie]

Hello people I’m new to the rally forum. I’m getting a new motor. It’s the trinity monster stock motor. What gearing should I use for it? I have a 26t, 28t, and a 32t pinion. Thanks!

AznJunkie

[AznJunkie]

Here's a pic of me car.

[SteveK]

Go with the 26 tooth to start: 32 is way too high, and 28 might be a little high as well.

[jerrit1]

I need some advice!

I bought an HPI RS4 Pro 2 roller for $40...it has a carbon fiber lower chassis that was broken and repaired right where the batteries go and the top plate is some home made plastic piece.
I was planning on converting it to a rally and since money is very tight im looking for suggestions.

Since the Pro 2 was not made for rally duty and since I hear it is longer than the standard rally chassis will it survive rally jumps...on the same note, will the repaired crack in the chassis make it too weak for small jumps?

Do I need to buy new rally type shocks or can I just put in big shock spring spacers to give it more ride height?

Is there any way to make super nitro wheels/tires fit this chassis?

What is the easiest (cheapest) way to get this to be 200mm wide instead of the stock 190mm.

Thanks,

Jerrit

[Albertt]

Jerrit1:

I performed some modifications to my friend's Sport 2 so that he could run it as a rally car. We removed material from the front hubcarriers and from the suspension arms (both front and rear) so that travel could be allowed. He also swapped in the longer RS4 Rally shocks.

Sorry, can't help with the 200mm issue. Maybe some 3mm offset rims and spacers would do the trick.

[civicds]

I have a rs4 rally it has purple aluminum: heatsink motor plate, belt tensioner, joint pieces, arm braces, and wheel nuts. it has a hg purple titanium front shock tower, hpi woven graphite front and rear shock towers, RRP purple aluminum topshaft, hpi super shocks aluminum with purple caps BN just put on the car, rpm ball cups, BB steering, crome mesh rims with x-pattern tires, 3 bodies: honda civic, mitsubishi eclipse, nissan primera, comes with a motor ran 3 times, a esc, manual and a bag full of extra parts. I'm asking $130 for all. If interested post reply here.

[tl_ke_racer]

I just got a rs4 rally yesterday i have a focus body, i got a heatsink motor plate, rrp aluminum uu forgot what its called, i have a slipper clutch, a custom belt tensioner that robstoys put in for me, and double chasis, got stock rally tires, intelli speed esc, stock racing motor getin some pics up in a bit.:D

[tl_ke_racer]

here is the focus the pic is dark sorry.

[marcusg]

Fellas I just got my RS4 rally WRX, and a Novak brushless motor/ESC, will that work ? What can kind of gearing should UI use ?

Thanks, Marcusg

[AznJunkie]

Yes it should work find.

Novak said to keep the final ratio about 7.3:1 and not less than 6.5:1. So if using a 90t spur (stock spur gear) go with 26t – 29t pinion. 26t=7.37, 27t=7.10, 28t=6.85, 29t=6.61. Start with the 26t first and go higher as needed.

I have the Novak SS too, but it’s in my off road truck. Sorry I hope this helps.

[ViperR]

I got a question about pinions & spurs: The stock Rallye kit spur is 90T. They include a 31T pinion with the kit. Why would they include the 31 if the max for a stock ROAR is 29?

[AznJunkie]

That's a good question, I have no ideal why.

31t is to high to use with any motor.

[tl_ke_racer]

dunno cuz they dont race rallys in roar not sure.

[SteveK]

It's even more confusing because the recommended motor in the manual is 17 turns, and the 31 tooth pinion would FRY that motor.

It's been asked many times, and HPI has never answered why.

[ViperR]

My only guess is that in the Rallye manual, it shows a drawing of what looks like a Mabuchi POS motor you'd see in a Radio Shack/Nikko junker. Maybe they are assuming that would be the first motor a newbie would install and that pinion is O.K. for that weak can.
Or they have alot of useless 31T's just to get rid of. Or it's a KGB coop to burn out alot of motors to keep the motor companies selling lots of cans. NAH.

[tl_ke_racer]

lol i got a mabuchi 20t in my car, its actually pretty good lots of torq and just a little slower then my freinds rally with 22teeth pinion and a p2k2 pro mine is only a 17 tooth pinion not that bad of a motor, and it runs for 15 minutes on a 1500 pack.

[jerrit1]

civicds - i am interested in your rally car....send me an email with some pics.

Thanks,

jerrit

[civicds]

send me your e-mail address and i should have them to you by sometime this weekend.

[grego9198]

Hey I just got myself an RS4 Rally yesterday (traded my stock rs4-2 nitro for it) It came with the carbon fiber upperdeck, a 15T speed gems motor and a few battery packs. I need myself an ESC, so what do you guys reccommend? What should I be looking to change on it for some jumping?

[losiracer9]

Will the graphite chassis work with the chassis "tray" (the dirt shield)

[tl_ke_racer]

yeah pretty sure, if u wanna make ur car really strong and handle better just double up on the stock chasis, mine handles way better then a single chasis rally and is much stronger, i do some big jumpin and hard wrecks with mine, only thing that has messed up on mine was the belt tensioner sliding down no biggie,;)

[civicds]

anyone looking for a rally i got one if anyone is interested.

[jerrit1]

civicds - please send pics of the rally to jerrit@grnet.com
Thanks,

Jerrit

[Rinkrat99]

Hey guys

I am gonna run my first race (Onroad Stock) using my Rally. I already bought as suggested a bumper kit. What do you reccomend for dropping the ride height? I am not going to buy shocks at this point until I see how qualifiers go. The racetrack is asphalt sprayed with Sugar water. Semi technical course.

The current setup is probably around 3/4" high or so. The car has always done well onroad playing around with HPI Pirelli tires.

I was thinking of going with the 6735 Red springs to drop the height.

What do you think?

[ViperR]

Hey Rinkrat99,
Page it back a few and look for my name or do a search on my name. I've posted on transfering the Rallye to on-road and done several of these conversions with good succcess (carpet & asphalt). My personal Rallye is for street and blows the doors off the Assoc & HPI Sport/Pros that want to race on street. Their clearance is just way too low (at 1/8") and they scrape and botom-out and their chassis' and are all messed-up. Mine still looks new!

[Rinkrat99]

Hi Viper

I found your previous setup to Upstate Bob

-Since you want a little higher ground clearance than the ultra-low RS4(Pro,Sport,etc.) for regular street asphalt, You can install an internal shock limiter (as you stated), but don't use fuel tubing. The silicon will squash and become shorter after a while and also possibly split. Use the plastic spacer tubes off tree #6817 (you get 4 of these trees with the Rallye). I used the ones that are about 1/4" in length and my Rallye now has a ground clearance of 1/2"(with lower inner body attached).


So you prefer a stiffer spring than what comes stock and you use the inner lower body. I was not going to use the inner lower body. Honestly, I ran the Pirelli soft compound around some standard asphalt and loved it just the way it was. Now for a sugar coated track it was recomended to use soft compound slicks. I will run with my T3 Stock motor (Reedy Firehawk 27t 24d) and probably a 28t or 29t pinion for a 5 min qualifier. I haven't tried the shock fix per above but I can do that Wed or Thrs this week and let you know the result.

BTW - I have never raced onroad but last raced for real back in 1990 with a 4wd offroad car. Should be interesting then.