Traxxas Rustler forum [Archive] - Page 3

xxxfactor1987

08-02-2006, 09:37 PM

rustler pics

http://65.54.162.250/cgi-bin/getmsg/_DSC6310%2eJPG?&msg=33E26234-9920-4FD5-AE32-6D14A0F9EC0D&start=0&len=2040667&mimepart=5&curmbox=00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000001&b=b4103f3910fdd166a4f5491a43c08e88&disk=10.1.106.206_d795&login=tuele87&domain=hotmail%2ecom&_lang=EN&country=US&SafeRedirect=%26hm___ts%3d1154569062%26hm___cacheh %3d1%26hm___ha%3dd3bc5ea10bab979d3cb4276f9ec1aba1
http://65.54.162.250/cgi-bin/getmsg/_DSC6319%2eJPG?&msg=33E26234-9920-4FD5-AE32-6D14A0F9EC0D&start=0&len=2040667&mimepart=9&curmbox=00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000001&b=5c6a226e1d8588a702636f78a5bf5520&disk=10.1.106.206_d795&login=tuele87&domain=hotmail%2ecom&_lang=EN&country=US&SafeRedirect=%26hm___ts%3d1154569119%26hm___cacheh %3d1%26hm___ha%3dae9f902b09c06426d29bdf03c45a2a08
http://65.54.162.250/cgi-bin/getmsg/_DSC6315%2eJPG?&msg=33E26234-9920-4FD5-AE32-6D14A0F9EC0D&start=0&len=2040667&mimepart=8&curmbox=00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000001&b=340c5d2d63480b607e6a57507fb352ea&disk=10.1.106.206_d795&login=tuele87&domain=hotmail%2ecom&_lang=EN&country=US&SafeRedirect=%26hm___ts%3d1154569182%26hm___cacheh %3d1%26hm___ha%3dc86fcc51d02e581ff3e17f8c252d3524

looks pretty clean. what do u think of it? should i get it?

apparently they dont work somehow. i tried the other way but the sizes are too big so i cant use the attachment option...

xxxfactor1987

08-03-2006, 07:09 PM

well here's the link. tell me quick b/f someone snatch it lol :)
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391968

ElectricThunder

08-03-2006, 11:59 PM

Sensored is slower but more contolable also 6 cell is as high as the systems can handle safely! the sensoreless is less controlable but you can add tons of power to them some up to 20 cells! also the sensorless speed steps arn't as smooth as the sensored!

The sensored motors aren't always slower and some can handle 14 cells (Hv maxx for example). I personally have run a stock rotored SS5800 on 12 cells.:D :p

For the money though, the mamba max combos seem to be the best bang for the buck; although they run too warm for my tastes (nothing a small 5 volt fan on the ESC can't cure).

RCfroman- I would suggest something like the mamba max 5700 for a good all around basher system with plenty of power on 6 cells (but can also handle 3s lipo or I think 10-12 cells). If you want to stick with only 6 cells or 2s lipo, the Novak 6.5 or even a 5.5 will be fine in a Rusty. Another option would be the waterproof Mtroniks Pro controller paired with a lehner or feigao motor (if you run in a particularly wet environment for some reason; I've also heard nothing but good things about the Mtroniks really).

Those three choices right there will be around 235 bucks or less (novak being the most expensive, but you can get money off via tower's promos; $20 off a $149 or more order I believe is the current one running).

RCfroman

08-11-2006, 08:59 PM

microrcdude

08-17-2006, 07:52 PM

Ok so i did some messing around this morning and i was just wondering if there is intrest on conversion kits to allow AE T3 wheels on their trucks and AE B3 wheels on their buggies? And how much would you be willing to pay for such a kit

TunaCan Charlie

08-18-2006, 12:38 AM

Cool, thanks you guys. Well, I've got to start saving for a brushless system because my esc died today. I told myself that once it died, i was going brushless. So, i'll tell you which system I get once I get the money.

I have a friend who just put a Novak GTB 6.5 system in his rusty. I'll have to let you know how it goes and what pinion he set up with. Maybe he can finally catch my B4 with a GTB 5.5......NOT! :p

___rollin___

08-20-2006, 03:20 PM

I have a friend who just put a Novak GTB 6.5 system in his rusty. I'll have to let you know how it goes and what pinion he set up with. Maybe he can finally catch my B4 with a GTB 5.5......NOT! :p

I don't see why he could'nt to tell you the truth, lol. If he overgears a little that should be a really fun/fast setup. Let us know how it goes.

ElectricThunder

08-20-2006, 03:39 PM

Zack, my Rustler. (SHACK PACKS!!!!!!:D Now I have MECs, as you know).

___rollin___

08-20-2006, 03:55 PM

Joe, mine.....

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/thebigjod/Picture007.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/thebigjod/Picture006.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/thebigjod/Picture008.jpg

(last one is teh motah, MO POWAH)

ElectricThunder

08-20-2006, 04:43 PM

NOICE! What's up with your battery tray? Did you dremel out part of it? :eek: Good idea actually....then you can use adj. zips to hold your batts in. (The lehner is TINY.... :eek: )

___rollin___

08-20-2006, 05:41 PM

NOICE! What's up with your battery tray? Did you dremel out part of it? :eek: Good idea actually....then you can use adj. zips to hold your batts in. (The lehner is TINY.... :eek: )

I dremeled out the back part of it where you massive HV is, but the tray walls are the same as stock. I did do a little mod to the bottom of the battery tray to allow some more cooling to the battery (maybe that's why my packs run cool). I drilled holes straight up and down, then drilled the same holes at a angle to put get some airflow on the bottom of the cells. I'll get a pick of that as son as I can...

Edit: here's the pics

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/thebigjod/Picture010.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/thebigjod/Picture009.jpg

ElectricThunder

08-20-2006, 08:38 PM

I see what you did now. I should probably do that too, just for making it easier to mount future batteries (m1s perhaps? :eek: ). I also dremeled out that craptastic little "wall" in the battery tray. The HV maxx ESC is mounted on a custom ESC plate thingy made of..................CRYSTALLITE! :D It uses the MSC's mounting holes to stay put with two screws.

microrcdude

08-21-2006, 06:27 PM

How much do them "Shack packs" run for now days?

___rollin___

08-21-2006, 09:14 PM

How much do them "Shack packs" run for now days?

At radioshack (that's why we call them the SHAX PAX!) their $25. They come assembled with tamiya connectors. The cells are as good as any other gp3300 so it's a bargain (non matched of course).

ElectricThunder

08-21-2006, 09:43 PM

How much do them "Shack packs" run for now days?
25 bucks as __rollin__ stated. I broke one of my packs down and reassembled it in a MEC solderless power tube though. I'm still doing "testing" as to whether it's a step above me GP3300 SHAX PAX (first impression, it's pretty powerful and it runs cooler than the shack packs methinks)!:D Still need to do more testing.

RCfroman

08-21-2006, 11:08 PM

I got a cheap Dynamite esc to tie me over until I get the brushless system, and it made the truck run better than with the traxxas esc. Apparently it worked too good, because it shattered my diff outdrives. So now I have to buy new diff outdrives. If it's not one thing, it's another...

TunaCan Charlie

08-21-2006, 11:20 PM

I don't see why he could'nt to tell you the truth, lol. If he overgears a little that should be a really fun/fast setup. Let us know how it goes.

Just an update...

He installed the 6.5 in his Rusty and I think put in a 16 tooth pinion to start with. Quote, "It's WICKED fast!". I'll see him hopefully on Wednesday and we'll run together. I might drop to a 16 tooth pinion myself and turn down the slipper a bit. I'm running an 18 now. Later.

microrcdude

08-22-2006, 01:19 AM

a 16 would only make it run slower, but would allow much better acceleration

TunaCan Charlie

08-22-2006, 06:08 AM

a 16 would only make it run slower, but would allow much better acceleration

Not always true. If the motor is not able to spool up to its max RPM because it doesn't have the torque, then dropping gears could allow it to utilize its power better and actually go faster on the top end.

microrcdude

08-22-2006, 07:20 PM

what spur are ya running and how much runs are on the motor?

TunaCan Charlie

08-23-2006, 05:32 AM

what spur are ya running and how much runs are on the motor?

The motor is a brushless Novak 5.5 with the GTB ESC. I don't think runtime on the motor is much of a variable as long as it's kept clean. The RC10B4 RS come stock with an 81 tooth spur and a 23 tooth, 48 pitch pinion. I've swapped down to an 18 tooth pinion when I switched motors from stock. Novak suggests a 16-17 tooth pinion for this exact application, so I'm actually geared a little high right now.

http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/pdfs/GTB_prg_gearing.pdf

microrcdude

08-23-2006, 02:16 PM

Ahh, its in a B4, i thaught you were talking that it was in a rusty. Yeah that gearing sounds about right.

TunaCan Charlie

08-24-2006, 05:20 AM

Ya, my buddy is the one with the Rusty with the 6.5 Novak system. What do ya think he should be running for a pinion if he has the stock spur?

I was supposed to meet up with him last night to bash, but he called off because its his wife's birthday. He didn't remember that before? LOL

microrcdude

08-24-2006, 01:20 PM

Wow id hate to forget my wifes b-day...then again im not married lol.

For gearing, i almost think he needs to move to a Kimbrough 81t spur and a 16t pinion...where do you two bash at and whats the surface like?

Vato Loco

08-24-2006, 08:43 PM

something I'm working on!
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f266/CMHCMH/100_1320.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f266/CMHCMH/100_1319.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f266/CMHCMH/100_1316.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f266/CMHCMH/100_1315.jpg
Not done yet got some more to do, might sell shock towers? don't quite know yet?

ElectricThunder

08-26-2006, 04:22 PM

Very nice Vato! Looks nice and thick too...:D How's your sand rail thingy coming along (or did you finish it already)?

z-man280

08-26-2006, 04:25 PM

Chris, you are THE lexan master!!!! looks hott man, lemme know if you decide to sell them..

Ron

Vato Loco

08-26-2006, 05:30 PM

Very nice Vato! Looks nice and thick too...:D How's your sand rail thingy coming along (or did you finish it already)?
Sand buggy is on the far far back burner! I might sell it and start something else? Don't know yet? I got so much crap on my plate it's getting harder to finish stuff now a days!

Quinton

08-26-2006, 05:32 PM

I have an almost new Rustler roller for sale if anyone is interested.
quinton4@cox.net

Vato Loco

08-26-2006, 05:38 PM

Chris, you are THE lexan master!!!! looks hott man, lemme know if you decide to sell them..

Ron
I hope to! But time is a rare thing to find for me! since I have to make each one by hand one at a time. so getting them out will take time! I plan to make them in sets of 8 or 10 then sell them! shock towers and a added goody to go along with it! :D look on the rear shock tower the body mout is moved! just like on my truck! i plan to make some thing for the front to mount n your stock upper deck to do the same thing! I keep every one up to speed as I can find time. Had to waist most of today looking for tires for my work truck :eek: all of my allowence for the next 6-8 months will go to that :eek:

radiohead61

08-29-2006, 07:37 PM

Okay, I needed something quiet for the campgrounds, but my only experiences had been with nitro off roads. A Rustler, with the new 12 T Titan seemed logical. Holy cow! With a decent battery pack and stock gearing, I find this the easiest to drive. So now, I guess brushless is next with Li-Po. I do see some weak points ie., shock mounts, hub carriers. I already installed bearings all around. Is anyone using bearings in bell crank? What a blast and so much quieter than my T Maxx.

z-man280

08-29-2006, 07:41 PM

Welcome to the forums! The new Rusty is a riot! Many put bearings in the bellcranks, for obvious reasons, and switch to the larger hub carriers, to accept the 5x11 bearings. If you are going lipo- i strongly recommend this mod, as it will quickly take its toll on the smaller 5x8 bearings..

Ron

Quinton

08-29-2006, 09:04 PM

What's the stock gearing on the new and old Rustler?

TunaCan Charlie

08-30-2006, 05:31 AM

z-man280

08-30-2006, 09:51 AM

What's the stock gearing on the new and old Rustler?
NEW Rusty- 23t /86t final drive 10.17:1 ( w/ speed gear-28t/86t 8.35:1)

old rusty-18t/84 final drive - 10.17:1

intrudn86

08-31-2006, 12:31 AM

My upgrades to my Rustler Include:
-Fast Lane Aluminum A-Arms (front and back)
-Fast Lane Aluminum Caster Blocks
-Fast Lane Aluminum Skid plate
-Trinity SpeedGems Pro Titanite 15T Double Motor
-Traxxas XL-5 ESC
-Traxxas 2055 servo
-Adjustable Camber links
-Aluminum shocks (front and back)
-HPI V-Groove Tire M Compound (2) (for the front)
-Pro-Line Road Rage II 2.2 Truck (2) (on the back)
-Nitro Aluminum Rear bearing carriers w/5X11 bearings
-RPM front bearing carriers w/5X11 bearings
-RC-Parts Faze One Aluminum wheels
-HPI Lotus Elise 2000 Body

I have been enjoying my Rustler and have been upgrading as needed. I first broke the Caster blocks on one side and after bending a few rods and breaking a few blocks I decided to switch to aluminum. In doing that I realized that if I went aluminum there then I would probably be breaking the A-Arms next and purchased those at the same time. I was then having problems with the shocks blowing out on hard landings and switched the fronts to the aluminum shocks... haven't had that problem since. I then took a hard cartwheel and broke a rear A-arm... causing me to replace that with the Aluminum arm. The next upgrade was the bearings. First I purchased the 5X8 bearings and was somewhat happy... for awhile. Next I decided I needed to go faster and purchased the 15T motor and XL-5 ESC. 1/2 hour after getting it running I broadsided a neighbors garbage can at about 35mph and snapped the rear bearing carrier. In the breakage I also noticed I had blown out the bearings. This prompted me to purchase the stronger and larger Nitro Aluminum bearing carriers and larger bearings. I am currently working on installing my new Lotus body and am pretty excited to see my finished product. Should be Awesome... I'll try and include some pics someplace once it's finished.

Quinton

08-31-2006, 06:14 PM

Welcome!!!

TunaCan Charlie

08-31-2006, 08:06 PM

Second that welcome!

I want to see pics of that Lotus body on your Rusty!!

Quinton

08-31-2006, 08:17 PM

The Subara WRX bodies look real nice on stadiums IMO

TunaCan Charlie

08-31-2006, 08:24 PM

Originally Posted by TunaCan Charlie
I have a friend who just put a Novak GTB 6.5 system in his rusty. I'll have to let you know how it goes and what pinion he set up with. Maybe he can finally catch my B4 with a GTB 5.5......NOT!

I don't see why he could'nt to tell you the truth, lol. If he overgears a little that should be a really fun/fast setup. Let us know how it goes.

Finally went a-bashin' with my buddy and his "wicked fast" Rusty. Someone told him that the Novak 6.5 system was more powerful than the 5.5 so that's what he bought. I think the store employee was just out of 5.5's, lol. He has really been wanting to beat me since my BL went in.

The race wasn't close. I didn't quite "blow-his-doors-off", but he couldn't keep up at all. I know he was pi$$ed. There was another guy there who was ribbing him pretty hard about it. I felt kinda bad, he is my friend.

Anyway, he ran with an 18 tooth pinion and I ran with a 16T, original stock spurs on both.

microrcdude

08-31-2006, 08:27 PM

whats the stock spur size on the rusty?

TunaCan Charlie

08-31-2006, 08:29 PM

urrrr.....mmmmm.... :confused:

sorry!

TunaCan Charlie

08-31-2006, 08:33 PM

OK....I think it came stock with an 84 tooth spur and an 18 tooth pinion.

Final drive: 10.17.

ROTTY261

08-31-2006, 11:55 PM

I am going to be real new to the electric RC world as soon as my Rustler gets here and I am fairly new to the RC world to begin with. I traded my Nitro Jato 2.5 ( i barely ran it) for an almost new Rusty with a Novak BL system and a GP3300 battery. Other than that don't know much about it except it looks real clean and hardly used. I will put up some pics when I get it and probably ask a couple of hundred questions about them, lol.

microrcdude

09-01-2006, 12:15 AM

id have him try moving to an 81 for a little bit more speed.

SwamiRC

09-01-2006, 04:57 PM

Hello,

Just wanted to share a video I had done a while back. Its a heavily edited montage of stunts using an 8-celled Brushless Rusty.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RD9pKjVM1XY

Enjoy,
Swami

Quinton

09-01-2006, 07:36 PM

Are you the old Swamibar man? :)

Quinton

09-01-2006, 07:41 PM

Judging by the old footage, I think you are. Where ya been over the years? You back in the r/c scene?

___rollin___

09-02-2006, 06:22 PM

Welcome swami!

I haven't seen that video in years :eek:

ElectricThunder

09-03-2006, 09:32 PM

Ah....SwamiRC. I cannot tell you how often your wheelie bar comes in handy (not just for wheelies, but also for protecting the motor!)....:D

CARTRANCE17542

09-05-2006, 04:35 PM

4 yrs ago, rustler was my 1st rc truck. I did not like it then but, now, seeing some great news about the rustler, I might get one but, would like to have brushless system. What is the best brushless system to get for the money that will produce speed? 3s+ if possible. Thanks

silver wolf

09-05-2006, 06:27 PM

Mamba Maxx system

ROTTY261

09-05-2006, 08:36 PM

Swami, I checked out your site today and that is sweet. I think between my boy and I we downloaded all of your videos and watched them over the weekend. I just got my first new to me electric Rusty after only two other Nitro RC's (an associated RC 10 GT and a Traxxas Jato). There were lots of nice hop ups for the Rusty and some good how to's and tips. I hope you keep the site going and for those of you that haven't seen it go check it out. SWAMI (http://www.swami-rc.com)

RacerST

09-05-2006, 09:45 PM

Quinton

09-05-2006, 09:56 PM

Rotty - Also check out www.misbehavin-rc.com if you haven't yet. He's been around for a long time as well. You could start with Pit Lane, E-Rustler and then scroll down to Articles.

Vato Loco

09-09-2006, 09:24 AM

I just ordered the new rustler because of my nitro whoes with the Overdrive. Hopefully this can keep me happy until I get a new OS. I got a NiMH 4200 pack over 2 3000. I hope I dont regret it. Can anybody tell me how much it will matter? Ill probably go and get another 4200 unless 2 3000 would be more worth it.
Get the best battery you can afford! I'd rather have one High quality battery than 3 lesser quality! The punch from a high qualiy 6 cell will out preform a lower quality 7 cell one! IB4200 with a good quality BL system is nuts with power and speed! Also make sure you get a great charger too, a battery is only as good as it's charger! The maintance aspect of it is way easier than nitro! Rustys are fun! I like how easy they are to mod out and when properly modified out they are bomb proof! you might find you''ll like your rusty more! chris

RacerST

09-09-2006, 10:13 AM

RCfroman

09-09-2006, 04:19 PM

the 4200's going to charge slower than the 3000 of course, but I'm not sure how much slower. Some minutes slower probably.

Vato Loco

09-09-2006, 05:34 PM

Thanks Vato Loco. I was kind of worried about run time too. I could get 4 3000 for the price of 2 4200 and then I thought I would be able to charge them and keep going most of the day. Anybody know where I can go to see the average charge times per battery size and charge rate? Right now I just charge at the default 3 amps. Thanks.
Well your going to have to let the motor cool between run any way! the charge time ain't going to make that much diffrence! I let my motors cool for twenty min. between runs plus the re oiling of bearings and cleaning of the motor 30mins between runs! Remember you don't run Nimhs flat! you only run them 3/4 of the battery charge so recharging won't take as long. I have a habit to run no longer than a average race takes 6-7 mins then I let the battery cool then recharge it, at the same time I work on the truck!

RacerST

09-09-2006, 07:15 PM

Is that how the long the usual battery runs for? My brother said he would only get 2 or 3 laps out of his old Evader but I had mine running today for over 10 minutes and it was still running strong. He said thats why he bought a nitro but when I had my nitro running, the time seemed about the same to kill a tank and dont you have to let a nitro cool down too?

RacerST

09-09-2006, 09:18 PM

I did my own research and read that someone ran thier nitro for over an hour so I guess that is longer. The book that came with my Rustler says that I only need a couple of minutes for cool down so I would think the time it takes to swap out battery packs and dust it off a bit would suffice.

radiohead61

09-15-2006, 11:00 AM

Hello fellow R/C people,
I want to put a buggy body on my Rustler.
I am looking for one that will not require Too much modification.
Anyone with thoughts? Having a ball with this Rusty. Bob

z-man280

09-15-2006, 11:03 AM

bandit body..remove the front body mount, pin it on.

radiohead61

09-15-2006, 11:07 AM

bandit body..remove the front body mount, pin it on.
Thanks Z Man. That was FAST.Bob :) :)

z-man280

09-15-2006, 11:10 AM

lol, no problem, Bob. the traxxas bandit shares everything but the tires/wheels, and front body mount with the rusty. the piece that covers your steering servo...take a peek at it. there is a provision for the bandit body to go there and for the body pin to slide in. remove the front mount, use existing rear shock tower mount, add wing...

Ron

RacerST

09-19-2006, 09:02 PM

So I took a 50/50 chance the other day and ordered two Tenergy 3500. I was able to use one pack so far and it was comparable to my Integy 4200. Less run time of course but all in all a good pack. Hopefully ill have the same luck with my other one. Its hard to pass up two 3500 for less than one 4200.

RacerST

09-23-2006, 08:32 PM

Finally got the engine for my overdrive. Heres a picture of my current toys. No hop-ups yet...

http://www.geocities.com/menomin000/images/trucks1.jpg

zack221

09-24-2006, 05:21 PM

can someone tell me whats wrong i put a new idler gear in my electric rustler and now i can only drive it for 2 or 3 mins and it wont pull out any more it acts like the idler gear is stripped again but i know its not b/c i have took it apart about 10 times and the gear is fine so should i buy a new spur gear (even though my spur gear still looks good) or is there something else i should check

RCfroman

09-24-2006, 11:49 PM

Is your slipper clutch tightened correctly, or not enough?

zack221

09-25-2006, 04:40 PM

i have it tightened up as tight as i can get it

RacerST

09-29-2006, 09:21 PM

Cant help with that. I havent had mine long enough.

Im updating on the Tenergy batteries though because theyve been through a few charges and are still rip roaring. I either got lucky or maybe they changed thier recipe. Ive have noticed they seem to get a bit warmer than my good pack but beyond that I just cant see buying a more expensive pack again. I suppose if you want more runtime go with another. Ive only seen a 3800 Tenergy whereas you can get others up to 4300.

CARTRANCE17542

10-02-2006, 04:04 PM

i don't know should I get a Stampede or Rustler. help me out

Quinton

10-02-2006, 07:22 PM

Which one do you prefer?
I've had both and I liked the rusty better because you can fly through dips and around corners and stuff and not tip. The Pede handles the bigger jumps better and wheelies but tips over all the time.

CARTRANCE17542

10-05-2006, 02:15 PM

from the lookof both truck, it look like the Pede is a raise up Rustler. Is the new Rustler better than the old one? I had the old one, never like it

Quinton

10-05-2006, 07:09 PM

Same thing with mild updates - you could easily convert the original rusty to the new one.

RacerST

10-05-2006, 08:38 PM

I like the Rustler because it sits lower. Its my first electric so I have nothing else to compare it too. I got the XL-5 version though and I think its pretty damn awesome. I dont know what money you were looking to spend but the Stampede is $10 more than the Rustler but you can get lower end Rustlers to start with at least thats what it shows at Tower. I dont see any lower end Stampedes that arent discontinued.

radiohead61

10-09-2006, 05:45 PM

I recently purchased a MRC Super Brain 989 and a Team Orion 4800 mah Li-po battery for my "trusty Rusty." The battery is a 4 cell, 2 Series and 2 Parallel. What setting would be correct as far as number of cells and milliamp hours?
Please help me before I blow a $140.00 pack.
Next question; If one was to purchase a Mamba Max system, which would be best for a "backyard basher," ie. 7700 Kv or ?
Any and all help would be appreciated.
Bob

RacerST

10-09-2006, 06:12 PM

Radio: Usually there are details on what to charge it at when you buy it. I think it depends on the quality of the battery.

Also, in case anyone cares, Tenergy currently has a 12% discount on 7.2V packs. You can get 2 3500s right now for $32. Discount code is "octpacks".

radiohead61

10-27-2006, 07:33 PM

I sent MRC Support an email and within 15 minutes, received an answer. Talk about good customer service. I got track time at Route 106 Race Park, in Pembroke, NH. Finally found a groove and had a ball with this 12 turn Rustler, now sporting a "Bandit" body. I ordered a Mamba Max 5700 kv system. Besides the obvious larger hub carriers and bearings, shocks, etc., what will I need to "bullet proof" the tranny? Also, what gears should I start with? I have a selection, but don't want to put it on it's lid with every pull of the throttle.
Having fun in NH.
Bob

radiohead61

11-01-2006, 07:25 PM

Tuna Can Charlie,
Where do you bash and race? I've tried 106 Racepark in Pembroke. Nothing my way, but indoor carpet which starts on Sunday, here in Gilford.
You seem to have gone the brushless route, please check my last post and if you can help me out, I would appreciate it.
Thanks. Bob

radiohead61

11-25-2006, 07:25 AM

Marv829

11-25-2006, 09:56 AM

So Far, Bandit body, Associated B4 wing on a custom mount,Proline Gladiator M3 tires front and rear mounted on Rpm slingshot chrome wheels, Big bore shocks, Heavy springs, New tranny cases with new bearings, Aluminum idler gear, nylon top gear, Rpm dust gear cover,Rpm camber links, Rpm bearing carriers, Rpm lower control arms, Mamba Max 5700kv system, 18t pinion, 86t spur,
I am sure there is a few things I forgot. The chassis and steering servo are the only stock items left and the chassis has been modified. I drilled about 12 holes in the battery tray for extra cooling. Keeps the LiPo's Happy.
Swami bar is on order, wheels for it are on backorder and should be in at the end of November. This is one fast puppy. I will post a photo after the new body is done.Bob

Looks good Bob. I prefer a truck body over the Bandit body for more air flow. I would say when you shread the top nylon gear put the original steel one back in there. Your list is very similar to mine except that I went with the MM7700. I find that high Kv motors with a higher gear ratio feel more powerfull/throttle responsive than lower Kv motors with lower gear ratios to achieve a desired speed. But that is just my opinion as a basher. I run the MM5700 in my Stampede because of the larger tires. You can get a ratio/speed calc HERE (http://www.freewebs.com/gassmann829/files.htm) for MS Excel.

radiohead61

11-28-2006, 07:29 PM

Marv 829,
Thanks for the info. I guess some re-gearing is in order. The calculator helps.
The Bandit body keeps a lot of leaves and debris out of the tub.
This "beast" is very fast. I wish there was someone around here to bash with. I bought it for summer months for when I am in the campgrounds, on the weekends. Much quieter than my T-Maxx, but much faster. It is not as forgiving as my T-Maxx, ie. driver error, oh oh tree. I am still having a blast with this Rustler hybrid.
Bob

botmund

12-17-2006, 04:28 PM

I recently bought a Rustler and installed my Mamba Max 5700 and PolyRC 3S1P LiPo in it.

I have problems building up speed, as soon as it is picking up speed it starts drifting and ends up spinning. Of course its not a touring car but I'm not even able to get 50% speed. Any ideas?

Original tires, changed to bigger ballbearings (back wheels) and changed idler gears. Other than that it is out of the box. I use the bigger pinion included in the package.

Any help appreciated!

Vato Loco

12-17-2006, 07:52 PM

1.What type of surface do you want traction on? That makes a big diffrence in tire selection
2.Have you changed the suspension any? softer springs and lower weight oil will help.

I'm getting a mamba maxx 5700 and 2s2p starter set from a123 racing for christmas. and my tire selection will be as always the proline moabs! I never had an offroad traction issue with them! But my rig is anything but stock too;-)

botmund

12-18-2006, 02:58 AM

1.What type of surface do you want traction on? That makes a big diffrence in tire selection
2.Have you changed the suspension any? softer springs and lower weight oil will help.

Hi,
I want to runt on sand(soccer field) and asphalt and grass. Thats basically what I have outside our home. I haven't changed the suspension at all. I think the spring are almost as soft as can be (orig). I'll have to change oil in them then?

Do you have a link for the tires you mentioned?

Thanks!
:)

microrcdude

12-18-2006, 03:54 AM

YOur best bet will be Proline Masher 2000's, Proline MOAB's, or ProlineDirt Hawg's. All three are awesome all-terrain tires, and last forever. Ive had some dirt hawgs on my buggy, theyve lasted for 10 years, and work on almost every surface.

botmund

12-18-2006, 04:14 AM

cooleocool

12-20-2006, 09:28 PM

I don't think I've posted my pics in here yet..

Enjoy,

-Tom :cool:

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/9697/rustleroctober32006001vn7.jpg

http://img426.imageshack.us/img426/9201/rustleroctober32006002rc9.jpg

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/8950/rustleroctober32006003sa2.jpg

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/7647/rustleroctober32006004fu0.jpg

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/6307/rustleroctober32006005bd8.jpg

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/7136/rustleroctober32006006jz3.jpg

http://img438.imageshack.us/img438/8158/rustleroctober32006007jh8.jpg

botmund

12-21-2006, 10:47 AM

I don't think I've posted my pics in here yet..
Enjoy,

Wow! Nice... That cooling solution you have looks like something I could use. Do you use a custom motor mount or have you done some cutting yourself? (I am Rustler newbie...)

bashin Maxxer15

12-21-2006, 10:52 AM

Tom, I just cant get over that lexan chassis, purdy...

Vato Loco

12-21-2006, 07:56 PM

O.k. I just got in my Christmas gifts from my wife! Thanks Honey! She got me a Mamba Maxx 5700 and a123 racing Li-ion 2s2p starter set! and all I can say is wow! I got the mamba maxx hooked up and did some test runs with a 7 cell 3600 mah pack and It's hard to drive it's so fast! WOW! Now I have to figure out the next layout for my new chassis to hold the new cells! thier larger than normal sub c cells! I'll post pic's after christmas if I got time and weather is nice! I get a cool christmas gift and the weather man says rain through out christmas weekend! Damn it!

microrcdude

12-23-2006, 05:47 PM

Ohh waa waa its raining(haha im rude)....Its been raining non-stop since november here, wont let up till march

one85_db

12-27-2006, 05:10 AM

Here is my Bandit...
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l277/one85_db/00001.jpg
It has RPM Hub carriers for the Rustler front and rear.
Rustler axles all the way around with rustler hexes.
Hitec high speed servo with metal gears and 2 BBs.
Hpi wheels with Pro-Line tires, Ribs in front Mohbs in the back.
Airtronics Am Rx.
Novak GTB and Velocity 4.5R.
Team Orion 4800mAh LiPo.
Traxxas spur gear adapter, clutchless setup. (87/16)
In the mail: RPM front and rear A-arms and Castor Links, and transmission cover.
Next: Rustler CVDs, aluminum Transmission case, and a Novak motor heatsink.

Almost forgot: Custom ABS air scoop where wing used to be, will use a fan to blow fresh air on motor.

RCfroman

12-27-2006, 05:03 PM

that's a pretty intense bandit :eek:

RCfroman

12-27-2006, 06:03 PM

Ok, so I started this project for a 4wd shaft driven rustler and I was wondering if anybody knew of any good differentials and cases that are 1/10 scale and are pretty tough. I was thinking associated tc4 diffs because that's really the only ones I know of that are 1/10 and kinda strong. Any suggestions on diffs?

Vato Loco

12-28-2006, 05:33 AM

If i was going to make a 4x4, I would start with E-maxx components! Alot of crawlwers use a traxxas rusty tranny with drivelines and TXT or other tamiya axles! Lot's of ways to go!

RCfroman

12-28-2006, 11:13 PM

oh yeah! why didnt I think of the e-maxx parts? duh. thanks for the help! :)

one85_db

12-29-2006, 01:46 AM

that's a pretty intense bandit :eek:

Thanks

cooleocool

12-30-2006, 01:21 AM

Wow! Nice... That cooling solution you have looks like something I could use. Do you use a custom motor mount or have you done some cutting yourself? (I am Rustler newbie...)I just trimmed it myself!
Tom, I just cant get over that lexan chassis, purdy...Yeah... :wub:

Vato Loco

12-31-2006, 10:04 AM

Rusty/Pede video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAyYUKUpu2E

one85_db

12-31-2006, 03:15 PM

Rusty/Pede video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAyYUKUpu2E

That was not very interesting.

cooleocool

01-03-2007, 01:05 AM

That thing scoots along pretty nicely now doesn't it!

bashin Maxxer15

01-03-2007, 03:43 PM

That thing scoots along pretty nicely now doesn't it!Yes indeed....

cooleocool

01-03-2007, 11:45 PM

Vato Loco

01-04-2007, 05:24 AM

Well, I took my Rustler out today! Ended up with another bent front shock shaft. The same one as before... Poo...

I just don't see why we'd need to go any faster than my SS5800. She scoots along so nicely on just six cells...
That's a good question! Why :confused: ? Why buy a 1:1 car that goes 100mph or more when the fastest posted U.S. speed limit is 70mph and auto insurance and gas prices are so high?Why :confused: ? I can't explain why I want to go faster :huh: In my last vid you see the rusty killing mail boxs on my speed run! they create a good pucker factor whe I run!LOL :D

cooleocool

01-04-2007, 10:27 AM

Well, I guess I could see why someone would want to go faster or at least have the ability to anyway. Why do I have a 70mph boat? Because it is fun. No matter how much gas those twin engines drink. I'd bet if I could get my hands on a faster system, I'd be pretty happy. But I'm perfectly fine with what I have now.

rclist

01-25-2007, 11:52 AM

Anybody using 7 cell packs in a stock XL-5? Is it worth building/buying a new pack to move from a 6 cell pack?

Thanks

cooleocool

01-27-2007, 02:33 AM

I've heard of people running 8 cell packs since the Xl-5 has an 8 cell limit! From what I hear, the power increase when going to seven cells is quite nice!

rclist

01-29-2007, 12:56 PM

Got to try a 7 cell pack this weekend and as you said the power increase was pretty noticeable. The motor/ESC didn’t seem to get any warmer than with the 6 cell pack but this was a 7x1950 FAUP pack so the runtime was only about 5-7 minutes compared the 12-15 minutes with the 6x3300 pack.

It was also nice that both the length and width of the 1950 pack allowed it to fit right down in the battery tray. It is configured as side-by-side like |||||||

TunaCan Charlie

01-29-2007, 01:32 PM

I have a friend that has just bought a Bandit and threw in the Novak 6.5R BL motor and a GTB. When he found out that it wasn't as fast as my B4 with a 5.5R, he bought a 3.5R motor and soldered it in. He brought his Bandit out last week to show me.

He soon discovered that it still was not as fast as my B4 and decided to call it a night after running one battery pack through it. That's when we found out something interesting...

The 3.5R has so much draw that we could not even pick up the battery because it was so hot. In fact, the shrink wrap on it had melted away and the hot melt glue holding the cells together was melting.

My friend, with three kids and barely enough money for food, was running this motor on year-old Venom 3300 pack with like a million cycles on it. He has no money for health insurance, but somehow has the $300+ to blow on a GTB and two Velocities.

I can't help but wonder two things. 1. How fast would a Bandit be with a 3.5R motor with enough power to run it?, and, 2. How much longer can this guy keep lying to his wife before she finds out where the money goes? :confused:

Vato Loco

01-29-2007, 05:08 PM

Tell your friend quit lying to his wife and tell him he needs to get a better job or a second job, I Been there done that. As for the bandit, has the same things as a rusty just with smaller tires. On the street the thing should run like a bat out off hell! 3.5r is a street motor! If you run it off road that will cause extra heat build up! Also what gearing is he running sounds over geared greatly! drop the gearing 4t see if that helps?

TunaCan Charlie

01-29-2007, 05:21 PM

cooleocool

02-03-2007, 01:07 AM

The 3.5 should be pretty darn fast in a Bandit! With those smaller tires, he can gear it quite high!

RacerST

02-03-2007, 09:57 AM

My brother just bought a XXX-T MF2 Racing Truck Kit. He has yet to put it together. Anyways, I was wondering if any of you have seen it in action and if I stand a chance with my XL-5 Rustler?

Vato Loco

02-03-2007, 08:39 PM

New paint job for the old rusty pede
http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=203

RCfroman

02-03-2007, 09:57 PM

where'd you find that school bus body!?

Vato Loco

02-03-2007, 10:11 PM

LOL's that bus get's the comment'sLOL's it's a parma Sckool bus!

RCfroman

02-03-2007, 10:18 PM

that thing's AWESOME! Did you just use stampede body mounts to hold it on?

Vato Loco

02-03-2007, 10:28 PM

this way!
http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-5952

cooleocool

02-05-2007, 06:20 AM

So what was your technique for doing that paint job?

littlej72

02-10-2007, 12:54 PM

I just got my Rusla' only have ran it a handfull of times(will post pics or vids if I can) got it to get myself back into rc easy(used to race and be pretty fanatical). Nice fun easy car, I got the RTR hopped up version xl-5. Not bad, definately got better after a few runs(new packs new motor) It's bone stock, I have been running some 2000 sport packs, there ok, moderate run time(kinda low) but they were like 12 bucks.

My questions are...

What should I check or do on this, with most rtr there is a lot of little things they skimp on that you can correct and make a big difference, I know on my old (1st gen) t-maxx, changing the shock oil(they were always factory underfilled) swapping out the s servo, and little stuff like that made a big difference, what kind of stuff like that does this car need?

What is a good weight shock oil, or cheapo suspension mods that make it handle better.

Is this really a 12 turn? feels like maybe 16-18 (my last cars were on roads, but I had a tamiya stadium truck that would maybe hang with this thing) everyone suggests going brushless, really if I don't it will be motor lathes and break in crap brushes etc. so I might do it.

What are some good inexpensive batteries, im not racing but $12 sport packs are kinda bumming me out.

If I go brushless what is a good setup for this car, and how much work is it to install?

I have a super brain 959, seems ok for now? Anything out there that might be better?

Any suggestions are welcome.

Quinton

02-10-2007, 03:29 PM

Probably get more answers if you ask your seperate questions in the electric forum and brushless forum.

GP3300 batts are GREAT! You can even get decent ones at radio shack now. Just change out the connectors to Dean's.

BL rules! period.

You should definately upgrade to RPM bearing carriers and bearings throughout your rusty, and aluminum idler gear.

RCfroman

02-10-2007, 03:32 PM

actually, after a little while, the ones from radioshack tend to lose their run time a lot faster than other batts. You can buy or build your own for about $10 more with better quality cells that'll last a lot longer.

then again, it could've just been my packs

littlej72

02-10-2007, 04:45 PM

if not the shack packs whats a good one?

littlej72

02-10-2007, 05:01 PM

Quinton

02-10-2007, 05:40 PM

Drop it in. Just need to upgrade to an aluminum idler gear and do the bearings.

Vato Loco

02-10-2007, 07:17 PM

Is there much work envolved in going brushless on a rustler? bolting it up etc? anyone have a walk through. Mamba max I guess is the hot setup, maybe ill even grind it out and slap lipos in there? Is it hard? can the car handle it?
Here's my MM5700 rusty/Pede with a123 2s2p li-ion's http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sk-i4OxkM6M
http://www.ultimaterc.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=203
as for what needs to be done? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.....Everything ;) Most of your average up grades will do! Just follow the mamba maxx instruction booklet!

RCfroman

02-11-2007, 02:54 PM

if not the shack packs whats a good one?
Well personally, i like Reedy batts, and they're not as much as say, Orions are. Then again, there's IB batteries which work great also. Of course if you want more speed and better run times, then yes, go lipo.

littlej72

02-11-2007, 03:59 PM

Are there lipos that fit where a 6 cell stick pack would fit? can I use them with the stock xl-5 rustler if so what type?

RCfroman

02-11-2007, 04:11 PM

well really, i'm not sure what kind of lipo's would be a good choice because i've only run lipos in my rc18t. I do know that there are lipos that will fit and that the xl5 can handle.

RCfroman

02-11-2007, 04:12 PM

and my 4wd project is on hold by the way. (until summer when i have time off of school to get a job to pay for parts.)

Vato Loco

02-11-2007, 05:26 PM

Are there lipos that fit where a 6 cell stick pack would fit? can I use them with the stock xl-5 rustler if so what type?
i think Orion make lipo's that fit a stock chassis?

Vato Loco

02-11-2007, 05:27 PM

Here found them: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNMF9&P=ML
these would be better, and you can zip tie them in if you have to!
http://www.a123racing.com/html/starterkits.html#
Hypersonic™ Two 2S2P Starter Kit

AS400147-000--HS-SK-2S2P-2
Retail Price: $269.95
Two 2S2P Hypersonic™ 4600 6.6V packs and One Sonic Charge System
Dimensions: 135mm x 28mm x 53mm
Weight: 310g
Output: Up to 30C continuous, 60C pulses
Features: Balancing connector, Deans Ultra output/charge connector

littlej72

02-11-2007, 07:46 PM

The orion pack at tower looks pretty cool, so it would perform better than a 3300 nimh pack? are those ratings not comparable because of the way they produce power? obvious other advantages. Why are the other packs so expensive? but lower ratings

Vato Loco

02-11-2007, 09:09 PM

The reasions I would go with li-ions.........JMO
1. The 2s2p li-ion's are 6.6v they have the power out put= to a 7 cell 8.4v 3600mah pack! also weight far less than a seven cell pack.
2. The charge time on a average pack is 15-18 min's and the pack cools while it charges! also they can be cycled over 2000 times!
3. They can handle more abuse than lipo's and Nicd's.
4. Way safer a Big Plus for me.
Li-ions are nice I can go all day on two packs, also they are simple to keep up! a real no brainer..................

B15

03-04-2007, 04:29 PM

The reasions I would go with li-ions.........JMO
1. The 2s2p li-ion's are 6.6v they have the power out put= to a 7 cell 8.4v 3600mah pack! also weight far less than a seven cell pack.
This is not exactly true, even in a 2p configuration those cells would be lucky to hold 3 volts per cell under load, so 6 volts total. A good nimh cell can hold about 1 volt under load, so 7 volts for a 7cell pack. Thats more than the li-ions are rated for even nominally. A 2s2p li-ion pack would be equivalent to a 6 cell nimh at best, most likely less.

B15

03-04-2007, 05:12 PM

I thought Id share my Rustler:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/bengxe/S5000138.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/bengxe/S5000139.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/bengxe/S5000140.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/bengxe/RC%20cars/S5000212.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/bengxe/RC%20cars/S5000200.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/bengxe/RC%20cars/S5000205.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/bengxe/RC%20cars/S5000206.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/bengxe/RC%20cars/S5000204.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/bengxe/RC%20cars/S5000208.jpg

Mods List:
Mamba Max 4600 on 4s 4Ah max amps lipo (2x 2s in series) w/ UBEC
Geared 24/83
Jato a-arms all around
Maxx driveshafts and axles
Jato 2.5 wheels and Jato 3.3 tires
RC Monster aluminum/ steel differential and steel idler gear
XL-5 slipper shaft and slipper parts
Integy motor heatsink/ fan
FLM trans case mounted backwards on stock chassis
Extended wheelie bar/ chassis brace
FLM front and rear shock towers, front bulkhead and bumper
Jato c-hubs and rear hub carriers
Boca 6x15 and 6x11 rear hub bearings to support 6mm axles in jato carriers
Duratrax Evader BX steering knuckles
Jato aluminum spindles
Proline desert rat body for maxx trucks
Futaba 3PM and Novak XXL receiver
Futaba S3305 steering servo
XX-Long shocks all the way around
Trinity Black springs all the way around
40wt oil/ 2 hole pistons

I think thats it for now. I plan to get either foam tires or slicks for the rear, on maxx sized wheels. Heres a short vid (http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h216/bengxe/?action=view&current=Rustlerspeedruns1.flv) . It went 55.7 according to the gps. I could still gear up quite a bit, but I plan on switching to bigger tires soon.

RCfroman

03-04-2007, 10:13 PM

Ok, so I did some thinking on the 4wd rusty thing, and I've got the shaft and the diff part mostly worked out and where the battery and motor are going to sit. I'll be ordering parts for it sometime this week and the project will be officially started.

Vato Loco

03-05-2007, 06:34 PM

sounds good!

MattRX

03-28-2007, 08:14 PM

Drop it in. Just need to upgrade to an aluminum idler gear and do the bearings.

Hi Guys

Until recently I had a Mtroniks genesis sport ESC with a Feigao 380C-7T motor and it had a habit of munching the idler gear. Where can I get an alloy version and what breaks next?

I have just installed a Novak GTB/Velociti 3.5R and it has quite a lot less torque so the problem may have gone away. I keep melting batteries so I suspect it may still be geared a little high.

Matt

Vato Loco

03-29-2007, 04:03 PM

Hi Guys

Until recently I had a Mtroniks genesis sport ESC with a Feigao 380C-7T motor and it had a habit of munching the idler gear. Where can I get an alloy version and what breaks next?

I have just installed a Novak GTB/Velociti 3.5R and it has quite a lot less torque so the problem may have gone away. I keep melting batteries so I suspect it may still be geared a little high.

Matt
The reason your munching Idlers is that the steel top gear wears the alum Idler fast. the steel Idler should wear slower: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=RCMpedeidler&cat=30 they also have a alum/steel main diff gear too! :D :D :D :D

MattRX

03-29-2007, 08:04 PM

Awsome, I just might have to do some shopping.

I was going to make a new alloy front bulkhead, but for $27 its just not worth the hassle.

Thanks again

Matt

Vato Loco

03-31-2007, 10:40 PM

This is not exactly true, even in a 2p configuration those cells would be lucky to hold 3 volts per cell under load, so 6 volts total. A good nimh cell can hold about 1 volt under load, so 7 volts for a 7cell pack. Thats more than the li-ions are rated for even nominally. A 2s2p li-ion pack would be equivalent to a 6 cell nimh at best, most likely less.
Then why does my truck run faster with li-ions and run wot for over 12mins where my 7 cell can't even touch it? :wave:

ElectricThunder

04-03-2007, 10:05 PM

Then why does my truck run faster with li-ions and run wot for over 12mins where my 7 cell can't even touch it? :wave:
It's all dependent on WHAT load. The 7 cell pack probably can't spike near as high current bursts as the A123s in a safe manner (IE- they'll probably get freaky hot vs. the li-ions). So, the li-ions may very well hold their voltage better under certain loads, but under heavy duty stuff, they drop (still part of the equation missing though!).

Let's not forget that the pack will deliver whatever power it can that is asked of it (to a certain limit). Even if the Li-ions drop down to 2-3 volts per cell, the load that inflicts such a voltage drop is probably something like 100 amps (or some sort of crazy load). So 4-6 volts times 100 amps is still 400-600 watts of power. 746 watts (roughly) is one horsepower, so anywhere from a little over half to six sevenths of one horsepower from the A123 packs; not too shabby (what the motor does with it is, of course, another story). To be fair, I'm not sure what the power capabilities of a 7 cell 3600mah pack are (I'm fairly certain it's not near the capabilites of a 2s2p pack of A123s though; IB4200WCs or the new GP4600s are probably a totally different story).

I do believe Vato said power in his previous post, not voltage (which are two different things....:D). Whether he meant voltage and not power, I do not know though.

Edit: I got so caught up in that, that I forgot to ask a question! HA!

Anyways, is anyone else running the lunsford titanium hingepin kit in their Rustler with the new RPM A-Arms? I just ordered a set of the lunsfords along with some RPM A-Arms (apparently they're lighter, so I figured why not?) and was wondering what ya'll thought of them; hopefully I made a good purchase (my experience with RPM stuff is excellent, but I've never used lunsford stuff). I hate the screw pins on the Rustler; they get bent too easily or 99% of the time, end up backing themselves out of their cozy little pin hole and almost fall out.... :roll2:

RCfroman

04-05-2007, 12:28 AM

It's all dependent on WHAT load. The 7 cell pack probably can't spike near as high current bursts as the A123s in a safe manner (IE- they'll probably get freaky hot vs. the li-ions). So, the li-ions may very well hold their voltage better under certain loads, but under heavy duty stuff, they drop (still part of the equation missing though!).

Let's not forget that the pack will deliver whatever power it can that is asked of it (to a certain limit). Even if the Li-ions drop down to 2-3 volts per cell, the load that inflicts such a voltage drop is probably something like 100 amps (or some sort of crazy load). So 4-6 volts times 100 amps is still 400-600 watts of power. 746 watts (roughly) is one horsepower, so anywhere from a little over half to six sevenths of one horsepower from the A123 packs; not too shabby (what the motor does with it is, of course, another story). To be fair, I'm not sure what the power capabilities of a 7 cell 3600mah pack are (I'm fairly certain it's not near the capabilites of a 2s2p pack of A123s though; IB4200WCs or the new GP4600s are probably a totally different story).

I do believe Vato said power in his previous post, not voltage (which are two different things....:D). Whether he meant voltage and not power, I do not know though.

Edit: I got so caught up in that, that I forgot to ask a question! HA!

Anyways, is anyone else running the lunsford titanium hingepin kit in their Rustler with the new RPM A-Arms? I just ordered a set of the lunsfords along with some RPM A-Arms (apparently they're lighter, so I figured why not?) and was wondering what ya'll thought of them; hopefully I made a good purchase (my experience with RPM stuff is excellent, but I've never used lunsford stuff). I hate the screw pins on the Rustler; they get bent too easily or 99% of the time, end up backing themselves out of their cozy little pin hole and almost fall out.... :roll2:
wow.... um...

I'll just help on your Q a bit. Well I dont have the RPM A-Arms or the Lunsford titanium hingepins on my rusty, however... I get RPM stuff on all the RCs that I can, because they're already highly durable, and if the parts break, you just send them in and get a new set free. Lunsford is also a great company with titanium parts. I've got the hingepins and turnbuckles on my Rc18t and they haven't bent or broken or anything.

ElectricThunder

04-05-2007, 04:19 PM

wow.... um...
:confused:
I'll just help on your Q a bit. Well I dont have the RPM A-Arms or the Lunsford titanium hingepins on my rusty, however... I get RPM stuff on all the RCs that I can, because they're already highly durable, and if the parts break, you just send them in and get a new set free. Lunsford is also a great company with titanium parts. I've got the hingepins and turnbuckles on my Rc18t and they haven't bent or broken or anything.
Thanks.:) I should be getting the hingepins today.

Vato Loco

04-06-2007, 09:53 AM

It's all dependent on WHAT load. The 7 cell pack probably can't spike near as high current bursts as the A123s in a safe manner (IE- they'll probably get freaky hot vs. the li-ions). So, the li-ions may very well hold their voltage better under certain loads, but under heavy duty stuff, they drop (still part of the equation missing though!).

Let's not forget that the pack will deliver whatever power it can that is asked of it (to a certain limit). Even if the Li-ions drop down to 2-3 volts per cell, the load that inflicts such a voltage drop is probably something like 100 amps (or some sort of crazy load). So 4-6 volts times 100 amps is still 400-600 watts of power. 746 watts (roughly) is one horsepower, so anywhere from a little over half to six sevenths of one horsepower from the A123 packs; not too shabby (what the motor does with it is, of course, another story). To be fair, I'm not sure what the power capabilities of a 7 cell 3600mah pack are (I'm fairly certain it's not near the capabilites of a 2s2p pack of A123s though; IB4200WCs or the new GP4600s are probably a totally different story).

I do believe Vato said power in his previous post, not voltage (which are two different things....:D). Whether he meant voltage and not power, I do not know though.

Sorry, what I ment was with the 2s2p Li-ion My truck is way faster, stronger, and runs like its on Viagera goes all nite. :eek: My 7 cell 3600mah pack can't even match it. also the li-ions don't get as hot as the Nihms. the li-ions can hold a charge better than my nihms. I'm torturing one li-ion for S&G's. I have Charged this battery left it on the work bench for 3 days and still has all of it's charge! the charging of the li-ions are great,18mins max that's if i drain the battery flat for a full charge. and I can charge right afer running the battery ain't go to wait for the battery to cool, they come off the charger cool! I go all day on two batteries. I like my Li-ions from A123! :wave:

RCfroman

04-07-2007, 12:32 AM

:confused:

Confusing talk for someone my age. :p

ElectricThunder

04-07-2007, 01:22 AM

Sorry, what I ment was with the 2s2p Li-ion My truck is way faster, stronger, and runs like its on Viagera goes all nite. :eek: My 7 cell 3600mah pack can't even match it. also the li-ions don't get as hot as the Nihms. the li-ions can hold a charge better than my nihms. I'm torturing one li-ion for S&G's. I have Charged this battery left it on the work bench for 3 days and still has all of it's charge! the charging of the li-ions are great,18mins max that's if i drain the battery flat for a full charge. and I can charge right afer running the battery ain't go to wait for the battery to cool, they come off the charger cool! I go all day on two batteries. I like my Li-ions from A123! :wave:
I know; I was supporting what you were saying.:) (I've always wanted the A123s; they just seem to be a much more convenient option IMO with form factor aside, which has been corrected apparently).

Confusing talk for someone my age.
I'm only three years older than you though....:D Open a physics book dang it!:p

RCfroman

04-07-2007, 01:30 AM

I'm only three years older than you though....:D Open a physics book dang it!:p
That's three more years of experience! (If I remember right, physics requires good knowledge of math and algebra, Algebra is EVIL :D )

And I'm not a person that likes to get real technical with things :p

Vato Loco

04-07-2007, 08:53 AM

I know; I was supporting what you were saying.:) (I've always wanted the A123s; they just seem to be a much more convenient option IMO with form factor aside, which has been corrected apparently).

:wave: They are convenient, kinda like the comparison is between Brushed and BL. the Li-ions are a true plug and play kinda thing..........They are worth the price. :D Get a set the wife can't kill you just hurt and what's a little pain?It's worth it! ;) :rolleyes: LOL's

Froman' It confused me to, and I turn 40 today! Age has nothing to do with it! :wave:

RCfroman

04-07-2007, 08:04 PM

Froman' It confused me to, and I turn 40 today! Age has nothing to do with it! :wave:

Happy Birthday then! :)

ElectricThunder

04-08-2007, 01:58 AM

:wave: They are convenient, kinda like the comparison is between Brushed and BL. the Li-ions are a true plug and play kinda thing..........They are worth the price. :D Get a set the wife can't kill you just hurt and what's a little pain?It's worth it! ;) :rolleyes: LOL's

Don't have a wife....:D College is coming though....:(

dadriver

04-08-2007, 08:19 PM

Hey guys,

I have a stock rustler and when i make a hard turn, my tires often come undone from my wheels. I am wondering if i have fluke wheels/tires, if there is a quick fix i can do, and/or if i need new wheels/tires. If anyone has a solution to end this, that would be great.

Thanks,
dadriver

dadriver

04-08-2007, 08:24 PM

Yo...

Also, i have a stock rustler and want to know what i should get for my first upgrade in a 25$ budget.

Thanks
dadriver

Vato Loco

04-08-2007, 08:59 PM

servo! super glue your tires to the rims!

Vato Loco

04-08-2007, 09:02 PM

Don't have a wife....:D College is coming though....:(
College can wait, R/C is more important! :teacher:

RCfroman

04-08-2007, 09:39 PM

College can wait, R/C is more important! :teacher:
LOL! I should tell that to my parents and see what they say.

Vato Loco

04-09-2007, 06:27 AM

LOL! I should tell that to my parents and see what they say.
:wave: While your at it, and tempting fate :D . Tell them that a Life time career in Burger king Ain't that bad! :eek: It should go over like a wet fart! :D

poppasmurf

05-08-2007, 08:14 AM

i have a rustler ,sort of, its pretty much 90% hopped up, with mamba max, and masher 2000's. Only thing stock is the tranny. I m having huge issues gearing my mamba max, it appears to be equivalent to the titan. I tried the 16t pinion 84 spur and punch control set to 80%. truck ran fine. last night i installed a 21t pinion, and changed the punch control to 60%. i ended up blowing something in my tranny. What am i doing wrong. any suggestions???

redbarton

05-08-2007, 12:54 PM

poppasmurf

05-08-2007, 01:45 PM

Which Mamba? I'm running a MM5700 with 15/87 gearing on 7 cells with no problems. Instead of going up with the pinion teeth, I'd be going down.

Im running the 4600kv motor and GP3300 6 cell batts. do you have the pro ball diff???? i dunno i just wanna have a bit more speed than the titan motor, with wheelie strength torque that everyone claims to have no problems with the mamba max. My rustler is pretty much a stampede due to the masher 2000's and FLM parts. I noticed last time i was out that the back wheels where spinning but not really grabbing, should i adjust my slipper more loose???
my esc settings are as follows, incase it may help you solve my problem.
forward/brake/reverse
70%reverse throttle
no voltage cut off limit
60% punch control ( should i lower this for more torque???)
startup speed is set to low (they recommend this for my type of batts)
thats all i can remember for now

LOL can you tell im a newbie, anyways thanks for your help its greatly apprieciated.

poppasmurf

redbarton

05-08-2007, 03:44 PM

Im running the 4600kv motor and GP3300 6 cell batts. do you have the pro ball diff???? i dunno i just wanna have a bit more speed than the titan motor, with wheelie strength torque that everyone claims to have no problems with the mamba max. My rustler is pretty much a stampede due to the masher 2000's and FLM parts. I noticed last time i was out that the back wheels where spinning but not really grabbing, should i adjust my slipper more loose???

No, I run the stock planetary gear diff. Stay away from the "pro" ball diff if you haven't purchased one already. It is junk and would melt under brushless power.

As for the slipper, I have the old style but I run ball bearings instead of the pegs. I tighten the slipper clutch nut all the way down and then back it off a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I stay towards the 1/4 turn. It's nearly impossible to keep the slipper clutch tight for long periods due to the incredible torque of brushless motors. That's what I found at least. If you have the new style slipper, I think you would follow the same steps, but I'm not totally sure.

As for ESC settings, I can't really recommend any, since we have different set ups. I'd probably set the ESC back to default, lower your gearing(smaller pinion at least), and start over with making adjustments.

Also, have you replaced the stock plastic idler gear yet with an aluminum or steel one? That's probably what you blew in the tranny.

poppasmurf

05-09-2007, 08:12 AM

well i had a look at my truck last night. It apears i only lost a pin thats holding my dogbones on the axle, FEWF. And ya i have the aluminum idler gear. I guess ill have to get some new pinions to experiment with, im thinking the stock 18tooth will do just fine.. thanks for the advice and tips.

poppasmurf

cooleocool

05-09-2007, 06:48 PM

Well that was my last used spur gear. Just toasted it today, so now I have all new ones left in stock.

It was a nice day and my track was just prepped by me. So I headed out to make a run with the Rustler. I limited the SS controller by putting it into Sportsman mode (a rev limiter for the most part). I haven't driven the Rusty much this year, so I figured I'd better do that so that I can actually control it on my track. That worked well. Ran about half the run before I switched it over. Probably shouldn't have done that. I made a few laps and... bye-bye spur gear.

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/7233/spurlw6.jpg

juntom10

07-03-2007, 10:36 PM

come on!! :D

lets talk about VXL rusty! :D:D

juntom10

07-04-2007, 09:12 AM

VXL rusty = about 380bucks..

umm
other stadium trucks can run with brushless..but the thing that i like about vxl rusty..is....full metal gears!!! that's so nice...and metal gear diffs! i hate to rebuild the ball diff..lol :D:D

TravisZ2892

07-05-2007, 10:45 PM

does anyone know what I would have to do to put rustler xl5 rims on a bandit xl5? I was thinking about getting one but I cant stand those stupid rims it comes with. on a separate note, does anyone know if anybody is selling the vxl rims and tires yet? that would be what I would really want a vxl bandit with the vxl rustler rims and anaconda tires!

juntom10

07-07-2007, 10:49 PM

i think they will sell vxl rims after they release the vxl cars :D

TravisZ2892

07-14-2007, 12:13 AM

does anyone have any pics of a xl5 bandit with xl5 rusty wheels? I am probably going to put a vxl bandit in layaway when hobbytown gets them in stock and I want to run the 2.8" allstar and anaconda combo all the way around. I looked at the exploded views on the traxxas website and everything looks like it would work. the only thing that concerns me is the wheel offset. anybody got any ideas? is it fine or will I have to come up with spacers or something?

RCfroman

07-16-2007, 12:02 AM

Well you'll need longer axles for the front to accomodate the wider front rims. Otherwise, just use the shallow rims up front, and the deep rims in the rear and you should be fine.

MumblinBerk

07-28-2007, 12:10 PM

Speaking of VXL Rustys... Traxxas announced shipping VXL models started on the 24th. Tower Hobbies has just pushed back their availablility date from "Late July" to "Mid August". Hmmm....

-MB

skellyo

07-28-2007, 05:33 PM

Speaking of VXL Rustys... Traxxas announced shipping VXL models started on the 24th. Tower Hobbies has just pushed back their availablility date from "Late July" to "Mid August". Hmmm....

The estimated arrival date changed because they have already received their first batch and they were sold out with backorders. My pre-ordered VXL Rusty is currently in transit from tower to me.

MumblinBerk

07-29-2007, 04:04 AM

Ahhhh. Well, in that case, I'm looking forward to hearing a first-hand report on your impressions, Skellyo. What are you using for battery packs?

-mb

skellyo

07-29-2007, 10:04 AM

Ahhhh. Well, in that case, I'm looking forward to hearing a first-hand report on your impressions, Skellyo. What are you using for battery packs?

Trakpower Lipos
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRWF7&P=ML

wagonguy1989

08-04-2007, 04:09 AM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb85/Wagonguy-/Traxxas%20Rustler/Picture020.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb85/Wagonguy-/Traxxas%20Rustler/Picture021.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb85/Wagonguy-/Traxxas%20Rustler/Picture022.jpg

bright red tommorow :biggrin:

i had to cut the wheelwells EXTREMELY so it clears the tires when it jumps...

wagonguy1989

08-04-2007, 09:32 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb85/Wagonguy-/Traxxas%20Rustler/Picture024.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb85/Wagonguy-/Traxxas%20Rustler/Picture025.jpg

MumblinBerk

08-04-2007, 11:52 PM

Sweet ride, Waggonguy! Paint looks great. Haven't tried painting a shell yet. Was saving for an airbrush set-up, but it all went bye-bye when I ordered my VXL.

-MB

wagonguy1989

08-05-2007, 01:21 AM

LOL, one good day of bashing... and it aint that pretty any more :D

winchester

08-05-2007, 10:37 PM

i was going to buy a tamiya but decided on a traxxis bandit... are these any good as standard?

winchester

08-06-2007, 05:33 AM

well i bought one today and a bigass battery, i absolutely love it its so quick for a standard car cant wait to start doing some mods

skellyo

08-06-2007, 02:10 PM

Took my VXL Rustler out yesterday to try it out for the first time. I ran a 2S Trakpower Lipo pack and the stock gearing for the vehicle. Here's the result of a speed run on the stock gearing:
http://skellyo.com/rusty_speed.jpg

After the speed run, I ran it for about 15 minutes across low grass and a little bit of dirt. With the weather at 92F, temps were 155F for the ESC and 165F for the motor. The only issue I've found with these thus far is the left rear wheel nut loosening up while running. I believe that the nut just doesn't go on quite far enough to engage the nylon on the threads.

pimpdcontour

08-06-2007, 03:13 PM

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/mgs99/101_0473.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g227/mgs99/101_0476.jpg

here are 2 pics of my truck. i am running a speedgem 17 turn motor with a tenergy 4200 7 cell. rpm arms and bumper. it is a fun little truck. would like other thoughts and maybe even some ideas. what body mounts so you use to put on a h2 body also? i would like to get a h2 and a beater body.

ThunderStick

08-16-2007, 01:41 AM

Just got the VXL Rustler. Very impressed with it so far, of coarse this is my first brushless.

http://i15.tinypic.com/5zh5k77.jpg

RCfroman

08-16-2007, 01:47 AM

I want that body so bad... except in a black form if I could get it

GT Freak

08-19-2007, 08:20 AM

bbwwwaaa hahahahaha here is the EVIL ONE, the DEMONSBANE: http://www.ultimatetraxxas.com/projects/daemonsbane/

sofast

08-20-2007, 03:59 PM

The truck looks awesome... the Rustler vxl that is....

Im just finding it hard to justify having to spend $150 per battery to actually run their "70+" mph...

I cannot even find an 8000mah LiPo Battery.. Highest I found was around 5k mah.

juntom10

08-20-2007, 05:35 PM

www.maxamps.com

they have lots of lipo batteries

even 12000mah one

ducklake1

08-21-2007, 11:45 AM

My VXL :) It's Awesome!!

http://cwhobbies.com/IMG_0776.jpg

http://cwhobbies.com/IMG_0751.jpg

sofast

08-21-2007, 12:23 PM

Rustler VXL- $324
5000mah Batt+ Charger from max amps- $299.99

635+ shipping/tax?

I think the truck is awesome, but not for the money by any means.. Id be MUCH happier with spending $385 on the Jato.

70mph at full charge, then your speed falls as the battery dies.
65+ stock Jato, speed never dies off, and It could easily push 70 with gearing.

Im not trying to hate, I almost put my order in for a VXL, until I realized just how much id be spending vs what I could get for almost half the price

juntom10

08-21-2007, 01:27 PM

yeah.
i love electric..

but the problem is the price of the batteries..

especially lipo.......>0<

winchester

08-22-2007, 09:03 AM

MumblinBerk

08-22-2007, 09:56 AM

Rustler VXL- $324
5000mah Batt+ Charger from max amps- $299.99

635+ shipping/tax?

I think the truck is awesome, but not for the money by any means.. Id be MUCH happier with spending $385 on the Jato.

(snip)

Im not trying to hate, I almost put my order in for a VXL, until I realized just how much id be spending vs what I could get for almost half the price
Yeah, that can be a BIG bite in the butt, especially if you have to spring for the charger right away.

I'm thinking that most of the VXL buyers already have an investement in lipo technology. Then again, it's not MANDATORY to go lipo, as the VXL runs just fine on your existing NiMh packs, as long as you update the connectors to the high-current ones.

On the bright side, the VXL series is going to help bring prices down further by giving competition to brushless leaders like Novak and Castle's Mamba series. As lipo technology becomes more mainstream, quality keeps going up, prices down.

I paid $102 for my 5000 2-cell. Having been lipo-powered in my planes for a LONG time now, that's DIRT cheap. Weight / Power ratios are far more critical in flight, so lipo, though controversial at first, was a no-brainer. It's taken a long time to move the technology into the on-road vehicles.

What we really need at the moment are REASONABLY priced quality chargers that include the darn a/c power supply.

We'll get there. It won't be long before we sit around the camp fire, talking about the "good 'ol days" when electric motors had ineficient brushes and burned out every season.

I don't think nitro will ever go away though. There is just something "magical" about internal combustion.

evst 360

08-22-2007, 01:44 PM

Hey, i bought a nosram tornado ss4 10 turn for a bandit xl5 what spur egar would you recommend? i thought maybe 24 to 22? any suggestions, im running a 26, unreal speed but way too hot can only run for short periods

thanks :D try stock on the spur gear, and 22 on the pinion. (I am assuming you got pinion and spur mixed up in your above post ;)) Then you can start the trial and error to find the right balance of speed, power, and motor temp. Also, just FYI, the xl-5 esc cant handle a 10 turn 540 sized motor (which is what you have) so you will need a new esc to handle that. If you already got a new one, ignore the last 2 sentences.

RCfroman

08-23-2007, 07:14 PM

How much is the vxl system by itself. Or can you not get it separate yet?

juntom10

08-23-2007, 08:23 PM

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSDB8&P=Z

winchester

08-26-2007, 07:45 AM

hmm yeah sorry was just clarifying that i had the bandit xl5 and not vxl :P i also bought a nosram controller to match the tornado :P and also yes got gears mixed sorry, im using a 24t gears seem to be a nice balance between speed and temp thanks for the help :D

poppasmurf

09-05-2007, 09:07 PM

I was finally able to get a shot of my rustler.

In this pic there is:
Mamba Max 4600kv ESC /motor
dremeled chassis(jangs idea)
adjustable front camber links
RPM bearing carriers
RPM spur cover
RPM F&R arms
RPM Bumper
FLM Rear shock Tower
FLM Bulk head
MIP Shiny CVD's
Alum. idler gear
Masher 2000's
Graphite front shock tower
Graphite Tie bar
Swami Bar
GP3300 Batts
JR receiver

My Truck is in pieces now waiting for new parts

Aluminum Castor Blocks (on there way) Hopefully solve my bent kingpin prob
Associated heat sink (on the way)
Big Bores all around (on there way)
G-10 chassis kit (I have it, but waiting on everything else)
Beetle body (needs paint still)

Ill Take some pics of my ride again, when its all back together.
Enjoy

nutwgnfromhell

09-10-2007, 06:32 PM

man I just got an XL-5 rustler with the titan motor and this thing is killer

norcalracer_707

09-13-2007, 07:33 PM

poppasmurf, how do you like those FLM shock towers? I'm thinking about picking up a set for my Rusty. How's the fit and finish on them?

winchester

09-15-2007, 06:14 AM

yeah theyre pretty quick standard arnt they :P if your happy with it and its going great NEVER fiddle with it haha :P

silver wolf

10-19-2007, 04:48 PM

if you don't fiddle then where does the fun come from?

RCfroman

10-21-2007, 12:15 AM

Haha, I think the servo is the only thing I haven't changed on this thing now. So could anyone recommend a good MG servo?

silver wolf

10-21-2007, 11:49 AM

hitec or jr have been good to me.

zueslilbuddy

10-25-2007, 09:01 PM

Well i just picked this rusty up on another forum at a fair price, came with 2 totally ugly bodys and a duratrash esc.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/rustler004.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/rusydrag005.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/rusydrag008.jpg

Claenad it up, threw on a different body, and a duster ESC.
Here it is 2 days later.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/IMG_1079.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/IMG_1080.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/IMG_1082.jpg

Still needs laods of stuff , I'm going to start with bearings all around and some new rear tires.
Any sugestions for rear tires?

BIGDADDYV

10-26-2007, 08:33 PM

I use road rage and V grooves for street on my rusty ...... they hook up well and last a while .... Or you could try for a set of XL5 tires .. Other than strett they are pretty much JUNK IMO ....

zueslilbuddy

10-27-2007, 07:10 AM

I'll post a few pics tonight finally got f/r body mounts set up and raised the body up in the front to get it off the front a-arms in jumps and bumps.
Most of the time I'm running here at home and its dirt, pavement, grass, dirt, pavement, grass, ect. ect. ect....
Need a good all round aggressive, soft compound, lower profile, tire that will last a little while.

Novak Luvr

11-07-2007, 06:07 PM

Hey Guys,
I'm looking for hot hop up ideas for my Rusty. I have already swapped the chassis for the G10, aluminum shock towers, aluminum gearbox, suspension arms, steering parts, CVD, Jato front suspension, Revo Spec clutch, aluminum shocks, wheely bar, Novak GTB brushless ESC, Team Orion Vortex Brushless 4.5 motor, Traxxas glued Anacondas, and a 6000mah Max Amps Lipo battery. It's crazy fast and handles nicely but when are we ever satisfied? When it takes flight maybe. Any tips or photos, give me a shout.

Novak Luvr

11-07-2007, 06:14 PM

I would really appreciate any advice on how to post photos. How do you shrink them to be small enough to post? I'm dying to post some photos of my Rusty but my pictures are too big. Help!!!!!!
Novak Luvr

zueslilbuddy

11-07-2007, 07:50 PM

ok so it took me a few days to get my pics up but heres my winter beater Rustler.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/IMG_1101.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/IMG_1102.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/IMG_1099.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/IMG_1104.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/IMG_1103.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l38/zues_lil_buddy/IMG_1105.jpg

Pretty much stock so far.
I have added steel idler gear new bearings in tranny and a Novak Duster ESC
Next upgrades will be Tires and the rest of the bearings in the f/r hubs.

Novak Luvr

11-07-2007, 09:21 PM

Below is the link to my photo site. Pictures of my Rusty are there. The album is dated today and called Novak Rustler 2007. Browse the other flicks of Team Jay while you're there. Enjoy
Novak Luvr :cool:

http://picasaweb.google.com/JayDP67

MattRX

11-08-2007, 05:49 AM

silver wolf

11-08-2007, 07:30 AM

hey novak luvr with all that alluminum and all that speed arnt you concerned about bending the alluminum when you crash? its good to have some alluminum but not all alluminum thats why its good to have some plastic so when you crash the plastic will break and not the alluminum. but thats just me and i'm only asking a harmless question.

Novak Luvr

11-08-2007, 07:39 AM

I haven't damaged anything yet. Luckily, my buddy just bought a CNC machine and he will be making me some one of a kind suspension arms that can be made on demand. I won't be running it outside in the winter so it has the season off. The suspension is dialed in to take most of the impact. Breaking stuff is just part of the fun. Fixin' it is the other part. You gotta love it!

Novak Luvr

11-08-2007, 07:42 AM

Silver Wolf, I stand corrected. I did damage the original steering knuckle, axle and suspension arm. That's why I upgraded to the Jato steering setup and the aluminum arms. No problems since.

BIGDADDYV

11-08-2007, 08:32 AM

heres some pic of myu hunk of junk I call a rusty ......

XL5 chassis
Old school black tranny with aluminum idler
RPM 5x11 carriers all the way around
Emaxx springs
RPM Talons
Moabs (BECAUSE THERE SHOULD BE NO OTHER TIRE )
Novak SUper rooster
Corally 6t motor
Custom painted Crows Pleazer Lid form SICKLIDZ.com
Venom 5000 batts making it all happen

Enjoy

juntom10

11-08-2007, 08:53 AM

oh my god.

6T motor in rusty? not a 16t?

silver wolf

11-08-2007, 05:32 PM

whats so bad about a 6t in the rustler i have twin monster maxx 19t on the back end of mine

BIGDADDYV

11-08-2007, 06:07 PM

oh my god.

6T motor in rusty? not a 16t?

Tom you reccall my stampede man ...... Took those moabs and balloned them up wider than a 10 inch dinner plate .... ;) I just sometimes have to have some speed in my life ..... TO be honest thats just the way its set up right now .. normally i have a traxxas emaxx motor inthe rear of it and with the other set up that i run i get 35-45 min run times out of a 5000 battery ....

RCfroman

11-26-2007, 09:13 PM

So if anyone that's here was around when I announced that I was working to create a shaft driven 4wd rusty, I'm still working. However, I'm still having a problem finding a shaft long enough to make it down the chassis. It needs to be at least 10.5" and at the most 11.5". Any help would be great.

BIGDADDYV

11-27-2007, 08:27 AM

Make one out of aluminum and a couple of roll pins .... If you need me to I can probably make one for you but i will need pics of the exact set up along with some measurements to make sure I do it correctly .... I have made shafts for most of my crawlers ( dog bones and ect . ) so this wont be much different ... LMK Big V

thewesman1

12-01-2007, 03:42 PM

my rustler just has a checkpoint 12 t motor

littlej72

12-27-2007, 11:25 PM

What would be a good pinion to use with an xl-5 rustler all stock stuff except I swapped the motor with a trinity titanite 15x2? I run fairly high cap. nimh batteries in a hump pack (7-cell) so bear that in mind, I would like it to run somewhat similar to how it comes out of the box, I was never unhappy with it just burnt up the stock motor fairly quickly and thought I would go with something better, which I hope I did. Thanks!

cooleocool

01-05-2008, 09:08 AM

I'd start off with a 13-tooth pinion gear for starters.

littlej72

01-05-2008, 02:08 PM

I sorta answered my own question but... I think that size pinion would be insanely small? It came with I think an 18t and the higher speed flat surface pinion is a 23t, a 15x2 is supposed to be equivalent to a 550 12t(at least the one traxxas put on there) so I left the pinion alone car runs nearly the same as with the other motor maybe a little faster. It did melt the junko tamiya conector to the batter on the first hard run though, but the motor was no hotter than the other one got, probably less, and the esc you could touch no problem. whats a reasonable temp for a motor or esc?

dub

01-07-2008, 05:46 PM

Check out the new JConcepts Hi-Speed Rustler body :)

BIGDADDYV

01-08-2008, 08:05 AM

I Like That Lid Alot !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :o

Dee

01-20-2008, 01:17 PM

I have a XL-5 Rustler, and was thinking about upgrading the tranny with the delrin gears, but it looks like it would actually be cheaper to go with the metal gears from the VXL. Has anyone tried this? Wonder if the metal gears would be noisy?

Maxximus50

01-30-2008, 12:35 AM

I put the VXL gears in my stampede (same trans) it works great, noise is pretty much the same. Now I want to upgrade to the revo style slipper.

savagefan04

02-04-2008, 04:35 PM

hey all...
i'm thinking of picking up a used Rustler from another forum for about 75 bucks. my main question is, are the older rustlers compatible with the newer Vxl ones? Arms for arms, tranny for tranny, etc. I dont want to spend the money on something that if it breaks, its done. thanks

BIGDADDYV

02-04-2008, 05:24 PM

yepp its all compatible ... They just beefed it up in certain areas and left all the parts the same size .... The slipper clutch has been changed to a different style but othe than that its all the same ... Well just different colors for the most part ... I say buy it and go out and have a blast with it ..

savagefan04

02-04-2008, 07:54 PM

thanks Bigdaddyv. this will be my first 1/10 electric offroad. are there any important points i need to review on the older rustler? i own a savage, crt.5 and mlst so i have a fair understanding on how these work, but ESC, batteries and motors are new deal for me.
thanks

BIGDADDYV

02-05-2008, 07:57 AM

what ever you need to know just ask ... We have a plethra of useful and sometimes even usless knowledge in here :D

Monsterbrad

02-05-2008, 06:57 PM

Ok I am looking for something for my wife to run and it has to be fast and durable.
I was going to get her a Losi XXX brushless rtr but she likes the way the Rustler looks better.
Is there any of you that are running the new truck???
what should I know

Maxximus50

02-05-2008, 07:17 PM

The Rustler xl-5 & VXL are not "new", they are updated & upgraded versions.
Virtually all parts(if not all) are forward (newer) and backward (older) compatable.
Traxxas is excellent at not making your old parts and or models obsolete.

I have a Stampede (first "REAL" R/C 4 me) with a LRP ESC and 13t motor,VXL Spec trans gears, it is absolutely awesome!!

I also just picked up a XL-5 Rustler, which is also tons O' FUN!

You can't go wrong with a rustler. (or a stampede or bandit for that matter)
They all share alot of the same parts with minor diff., and parts & hop-ups are everywhere. It is a great vehicle for noobs and pros alike.
My stampede is now 7yrs old, and still great.
I think that they have been around for 10 or so years!

Monsterbrad

02-05-2008, 07:45 PM

She will be getting a new Rustler VXL when spring gets here
I am sold from what I have been reading.
Durability is the most omportant thing cause I don't want to have to fix it all the time like her vendetta.
This new truck with some of my 3800 IB's should be pleanty

Maxximus50

02-05-2008, 08:28 PM

I will soon be changing over all of the hardware on my pede & rusty, to VXL spec hex hardware. Phillips hardware just plain sucks!!

savagefan04

02-05-2008, 09:44 PM

Maxximus50

02-05-2008, 10:26 PM

thanks for the encouragement BigdaddyV. i'm torn at the moment. the truck is 75 bucks but after i factor in a new body, tires,wheels, bearings, diff, tranny and a new esc/motor i'm almost at the cost of a newer vxl set up. too many options my head is spinning. another concern is the only lhs shop only stocks losi xxxt parts. they race that brand so its the only one they carry. everything else is order as u break...

Why do you need all that stuff for it? If it really needs all that I would pass and get a new one. Otherwise $75 seems good if it is good working order, you can still have lots of fun with a XL-5 brushed rustler, you don't have to have a VXL. Don't get me wrong I want one bad but, I already have a XL-5 rustler and a Stampede w/LRP ESC. I really want to put a MM5700 in my pede, but a VXL pede isn't much more $$. My head is spinning too. lol :D

savagefan04

02-06-2008, 09:08 PM

the rustler is used...from the pics it certainly needs a new body, tires/wheels and maybe bearingss. i'd like to upgrade the tranny and diff o i can run hotter motors in the future but in the short time i guess that can wait. basically i like looking into the future when i buy a used rig. eventually going for a NL set up means another 160-200 bucks, plus the 75 for rig puts me at 250ish. adding in the already mentioned parts above i'm at the cost of a new BL RTR. like i said, i'm torn and my head is still spinning. haha

Monsterbrad

02-08-2008, 05:48 PM

I have to say after being in this hobby for almost 18 years that buying something used that needs alot of stuff is never worth it.
Spending the extra cash and getting new is always an option even if it takes a bit longer to save the money.
In this case the truck is brand new and the VXL is a pretty impressive machine.
If it were me I would go new
Then you can say you have had it since new and everything is new.
Replace things when needed.
Just some in put on thoughts
Good luck with your decision
I know I am going to be getting one of these new VXL's for my g/f.

trxvxl88

03-09-2008, 09:00 PM

i have the rustler vxl all was running good and all of ah sudden nothing battery is fully chargde maxamp 8000 11.1 , getting steering but car will not go
please help needed what could be wrong ?
tks

silver wolf

03-10-2008, 10:06 AM

In my experience there there are a few things that could cause this, 1. one of the motor wires came off the motor. 2. the speed control is trashed. but before you get a new esc try switching the wires for the servo and the esc and see if you get your wheels to spin if they do and you loose steering it could be the transmitter or the receiver.

cenracer1

03-10-2008, 04:56 PM

Hi I just put in a MM5700 in my xl5 Rustler and I couldn't be happier.. I am replacing all the Trans parts to VXL specs, but I decided to try it with the original trans first.(I did update to all metal gears a while ago).. what a difference in performance.. IMO the MM is the way to go.. the VXL is good also, but the MM can be tweaked by the computer and thats important.. I also run the Jato 2.8 wheels and tires.. currently running a 22 pinion and 87 spur.. the motor after killing a 4500 battery is just slightly warm.. The speed is amazing considering only 7.2V.. clocked on a bushnell gun hit about 43mph.. much better than the 9t I was running before and 15 minute runs don't hurt either.. Have the punch control set to 50% only applies full punch after half throttle otherwise it will backflip when the throttle is touched and strip out the stock spur gear.. It still wheelies on takeoff and pulls another wheelie after you reach half throttle.. love this thing all over again...

Racer Rob

03-14-2008, 04:16 PM

Well I wanted to improve the handling of the truck, so its getting Jato suspension all around. Used RPM front arms.

Still need to tweak the shocks, but its not too bad. Downside is the truck is now wiiiiiide as can be. I have only ran 2 battery packs through this truck so far, and those were box stock. Its got lots more in store for it.

Keep in mind, in the pics I haven't adjusted anything yet, so the toe and such isn't right. Sorry my camera is a pile.

Install wasn't that bad, little custom work. It wasn't cheap. About $120 including wheels/tires into it. Would I do it again? no. Still have problems to work out. The body doesn't fit. Need to figure out a front body mount, rear doesn't work because the body hits the shocks in that position, etc.
If I did it again, I would probably just use the Jato carriers/hubs in the front with the stock arms and call it a day. Sunday is race day, will see how it does for carpet stadium. That will tell me if it was worth it, or a waste of time and money. My guess is #2...

To make the arms fit, I had to modify the rear arm mounts to be shorter (I think its pretty much the only weak part of the suspension now), and had to file the insides of the front arms to make them the same width as the bulkhead. About 1/8" removed total, 1/16th from each side. That was one of the reasons for deciding to use the RPM arms, as they were thicker in this area.

I also had to move the shock tower to the front of the bulkhead, so I could mount the shocks in the rear. Now I am stuck figuring out a body mount, probably going to use a Duratrax Evader or simular front body mount.

The rear, also had to move the shocks to the rear of the shock tower, I thought at first the rear would be simple, but I had to flip the arms, due to the toe being at the arms, so flipped I had positive toe out. Not good for handling. So, now the body doesn't clear the rear shocks either.

The as you can see, the truck is now longer wheelbase due to the Jato suspension geometry. I will have to take the truck back up to the LHS and see what I can find for bodies that look good on it. Hoping maybe a Jato or similar will not look out of place. (See, LHS's are good, try doing that mail order...)

The wheels are from Pro-Line, not sure what vehicles they make them for. Those are for the Jato.

Now for the pics...
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/7450/rustlernewrear025sjv8.jpg

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/4938/rustlernewrear024sqy1.jpg

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/950/rustlernewrear022sok1.jpg

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/6233/rustlernewrear021sdj6.jpg

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/74/rustlernewrear020sxy3.jpg

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/8895/rustlernewrear019ssz4.jpg

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/2990/rustlernewrear016sbm6.jpg

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/7641/rustlernewrear017sel1.jpg

Jeckler

03-16-2008, 04:36 PM

This is my daughter's Rusty that's she's going to be racing oval with at the local HobbyTown. It's a black Rusty, upgraded with RPM castor blocks, front and rear bearing carriers with 5x11 bearings, and powered by a Novak GTB w/SS13.5 BL and an Orion Carbon 3200 LiPo. On the way for the truck is a VXL transmission and turnbuckles. Wheels and tires are Traxxas 2.8 All Stars with Anaconda rubber. Jato style Twin Spokes are on the way as well. Body is a ProLine Desert Rat painted with yellow, white and silver spots, then backed with blue. It didn't come out with enough blue for my liking, but she loves it.
Currently geared 25/84 (9.14FDR if I did the math right), and still spins the tires and the motor hasn't gone over 110 degrees. The gear cover is off so it's easier to make gearing changes.

http://members.cox.net/jheckel1/andy/rc/rustler/rusty1.jpg
http://members.cox.net/jheckel1/andy/rc/rustler/rusty2.jpg
http://members.cox.net/jheckel1/andy/rc/rustler/rusty3.jpg
http://members.cox.net/jheckel1/andy/rc/rustler/rusty4.jpg

BIGDADDYV

03-16-2008, 06:11 PM

Solid looking little ride there .. I hope she does well with it ...

JS70

03-27-2008, 08:18 AM

...........

pasan

04-05-2008, 07:31 PM

Hi all, I ran my VXL without the body while testing a new battery pack and forgot the put the battery holding clip in place (yes i know im a retard for having forgotten it :( ). Anyway, I flipped it over probably doing 40 or so and the battery was outside and the battery was underneath the car with the conencting wires jammed between the chassis and the axle. I ran it for a while longer and then when i disconnected the battery, the positive wire had worked its way loose from the connector and it came out with a gentle pull. What are my options now? Any feedback would be most appreciated.