OFNA 1/8 Buggys v2.0

[Lost Racer1]

ok..another quote from Rotorranch.

"I would probably buy the MBX R2 again. You can't beat it for the money! We haven't had any more problems with the diffs. Ofna sent us some gears that are supposed to be better than the originals. I have installed 3 sets in the 4 cars I prep here. I also shimmed the bevel gears, using Kyosho BS-53 shim sets, to eliminate any excess free play. I use the stock Ofna shims under the small bevel gears, and one Kyosho shim behind each of the large bevel gears. This has seemed to do it for the diffs on all but one diff, which required only one shim behind one of the large bevel gears, but not the other.

After assembling the diff, put the diff into the case, and check the preload and backlash of the pinion gear to the ring gear. I have had to use 2 or 3 shims behind the pinion to get the excess freeplay out of the gears. "

Good observation on the bearings...

[crank throw wei]

Thanks for your replies guys! Heres what I have done to date:
I have shimmed the pinion as far in as it will go,without crashing the diff housing ,or causing misalignment with the ring.

I have replaced the pinion bearings,thinking they were allowing "sqirm", there by causing a misalignment.

I have made a .004" shim( from hardened shim stock) to get the mesh as tight as possible,without causing bind.


And I have tryed a variety of lubes.

Keep in mind this has happened on smooth pavement,as much as off road(we have the GTP conversion kit as well,and switch back and forth).

I just fired off another letter to Ofna,but I'm not holding my breath!:(

[Lost Racer1]

Sorry :( maybe you jsut got a bad one?:confused: :confused:

[anothermbdusted]

ofna doesnt responde to letters from what i have seen the best way is to call them

[anothermbdusted]

hey what is better for a suspension the mbx style or the c hub style?which is stronger?the reason why i ask this is because the hub on my 9.5 along with other parts are broke because of a kid in the pits with his radio on doing a radio check

[morfracerX]

dusted

well i can tell you two things aboutthe mbx set up and the c hub set up

With the mbx style you can better fine tune your buggies handling althogh not as strong as the c hub (IMO!!!) it makes up for that with tuneabilty. If you want to dive head first into racing then i myself would go with the mbx style (never gonna happen), but if you just want to have a good handling buggy and not worry about having to tune the suspension as much run with the c hub. TRUST ME you can really screw things up with the mbx set up if you don't know what you're doing :D :D :D

[anothermbdusted]

well thank you for the response thats what i thought but wanted someone elses opinion also.I think im going to try and call ofna and see if i can get the thing warrentied but doubt it so if not ill go with the cnc and hope that it is better then the alloy part that comes with it and then get a trs for the fail safe instead.

[morfracerX]

unless you talk to a real real real nice person at ofna you wont be getting yourstuff replaced by them unless you pay.

On a side not try looking for the parts on ebay, i think i saw a 9.5 front end on there (they have everything else).

[anothermbdusted]

yeah i thought about that also alot of upgrades i want for this thing just dont want to pay the big bucks for them thats all but i probably will end up doing so.hope the wife dont find out.lol is there anyone that makes parts for the 9.5 other then ofna?

[willt]

Im about to buy one of them and I just wondered which is faster a Ultra MBX or a Ultra LX Pro? Also which has more upgradeable parts? So really I guess Im askin which is faster stock and which is faster with the aftermarket goodies?

thanks,
Will

ps Ive already got a Tmaxx but a buddy of mine bought a Nitro MT so Ive got to have somehing to beat him in races and top end speed too!!

[Lost Racer1]

Originally posted by willt
Im about to buy one of them and I just wondered which is faster a Ultra MBX or a Ultra LX Pro? Also which has more upgradeable parts? So really I guess Im askin which is faster stock and which is faster with the aftermarket goodies?

thanks,
Will

ps Ive already got a Tmaxx but a buddy of mine bought a Nitro MT so Ive got to have somehing to beat him in races and top end speed too!!

Which is faster?? Depends on how well you drive. Your setup? Terrain? The LX Pro and MBX are 2 differnt platforms as far chassis and front suspension go. But if you can't drive, it really doesn't matter. I guess what I'm trying to say is, either one you go with will suffice if you're just looking for straight speed. Just update the engine.

[willt]

well let me simplify the question, if you put them, both stock, side by side on pavement with a computer driving each which would pass the 200ft mark first!

[willt]

about what are their top speeds? Ultra LX Pro and MBX

[doesgo]

How does the Ofna Force 21 (P4) engine compare to the Force 25, the Hyper 21, and the Hyper 21 8-port for bashing?

I've got the P4 in my new GT LX and I'm wondering if I should sell the brand-new P4 and look into the upgrade or run the P4 for a while. Is the P4 pretty decent? I got the GT LX just before I found out about the LX Pro with the Force 25 for a few bucks more, but it was too late. Now my buddy's got the LX Pro and will probably be kicking my P4's rear end.

Finally, I've got no off-road nitro tracks around here so I'm a 100% basher. When I do upgrade, would you recommend the Force 25, Hyper 21, Hyper 21 8-port, or O.S. RG?

Thanks.

[-=ADA$=-]

i would say for bashing go for force .25 there is no replacement for displacement, and if not, than hyper 8-port.
And about top speed, it depends on gering and motor, if engine is same and same gearing it will go equally fast

[morfracerX]

From what i have read the .25 has an insane amount of low end, some have even wenbt as far as to line it up next to the OS rz (low end that is). For a basher i would stick with the 8 port, with stock gearing it should be faster. Best thing to do is see how you p4 stands up to your buds .25 then see how you like it.

The .25 is a P4 boared out and should be better on a track wherte there isc alot of slowing and smahing out of turns.

i myself have chosen the .25 for my 9.5 as i sometimes bash at the track and the 8 port hyper for my monster pirate for alot of top end. They should be up and running around the first of the year i just need to get around to putting my MP back together.

[mercenario27]

I'm passing the word around. SSRCPARTS is making CNC 7075 T6 Aluminum Shocktowers for the DOM/MP and GTLX/MBX/BLAZ/GTP. He added a extra shock hole to the shock towers. He said they are priced $40 a set front and rear. Steve also said that he made 6mm/8mm hub adapters to use 2.2 rims that use the HPI/TRX hex on our buggies. He also made them to fit Tmaxx rims for all you Truggy guys. I will post pictures of them as soon as I get DOM and MBX back from Steve, I'm sure he will post pics on his website I'm sure.

http://www.geocities.com/ssrcparts

[doesgo]

Is there a price on the wheel adapters to go to the HPI hex? I didn't see anything about them on the site other than "coming soon".

Thanks.

[mercenario27]

I was told $25 per set contact him, his email is on the site

[doesgo]

Thanks, I will.

Say, should I Loctite the setscrews in the hubs on my GT LX? How about the wheel nuts themselves? Metal-on-metal, you know, but there's something about threadlocking wheel nuts that doesn't seem right for some reason.

[smacked]

Hey guys i am going to get a new ofna buggy and i want to know which to get. I want a fast, reliable buggy that will be good for bashing and racing.

[Lost Racer1]

Originally posted by doesgo
Thanks, I will.

Say, should I Loctite the setscrews in the hubs on my GT LX? How about the wheel nuts themselves? Metal-on-metal, you know, but there's something about threadlocking wheel nuts that doesn't seem right for some reason.

Yes do the set screws.DO NOT! I can't stress this enough, but do not loctite the wheel hub nuts. Unless of course you have spare hubs. :)

IMO I'd go with the Hyper 7 over the GTLX Pro. Its a VERY solid buggy.

The GTLX Pro wouldn't be a bad choice either, but from the racing aspect I think the Hyper will do you better.

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by smacked
Hey guys i am going to get a new ofna buggy and i want to know which to get. I want a fast, reliable buggy that will be good for bashing and racing.

It sounds like you already know what you want, just grab the hyper 7 and have fun.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by Lost Racer1
Yes do the set screws.DO NOT! I can't stress this enough, but do not loctite the wheel hub nuts. Unless of course you have spare hubs. :)

Thanks a bunch! I've already Loctited the engine mount screws (that go through the chassis and into the mounts) and the steering shaft screws, anything else besides the hub setscrews?

[morfracerX]

the screws and bolts that go into the shock tower and the servo brace and center diff brace screws.

[Lost Racer1]

Originally posted by doesgo
Thanks a bunch! I've already Loctited the engine mount screws (that go through the chassis and into the mounts) and the steering shaft screws, anything else besides the hub setscrews?

I've already Loctited the engine mount screws (that go through the chassis and into the mounts)

Oh boy. :) Be very careful in doing that..If you ever have to remove that engine via the mounts, it will be very easy to strio those screws. You should be able to just torque them and be ok. I've had that problem before and its not fun having to dremel slots into your chassis and screws to get them out:(

[doesgo]

Thanks again, guys.

I did the engine-mount screws because one backed out of my HPI NMT and sheared off because I didn't Loctite it. So now I'm very careful about putting threadlock on stuff. I use the medium strength threadlock, there's no problem getting the fasteners removed with normal hand tools.

[willt]

is the top speed of the LX Pro not known or something, thats all I want to know is its top speed, and if you know, the top speed with the 2 speed tranny?

thanks,
Will

[p.n.e]

it comes with a 1 speed tranny as i recall, all buggies do. your probably right, its not known. not many people here have one and those who do probably dont have a radar gun. im guessing around 50 mph. too bad ofna doesnt publish the top speeds..

[ROD B]

is the top speed of the LX Pro not known or something, thats all I want to know is its top speed, and if you know, the top speed with the 2 speed tranny?

thanks,
Will

[well gee will its sounds like your a lil agro dude
maybe this will help my friend and i both have touring cars w/2spds one hpi the other duratrax the dtrx has os 15
and hpi a 12 we raced them both against my lx pro and they were
blown away and the drtrx car was posted 50 out of the box
i dont think the buggy gets over the mid 50's but it will get there
in just a few feet(30/40 ft)
the guy at my lhs says you could see speeds upwards of 60 mph
with the 2spd and i have run only about a half gal of fuel and every time idrive it ,it faster and cooler running temps
if you have a nitro mt youlle probably never run again after you
break in the lx pro.
and how there being shipped now the lx pro would be faster
cause of the bigger motor.

sooo big rod says chill dude get the lxpro and just burn nitro dude
im sure you will be impressed:) :cool: :D

[doesgo]

Hey Rod, what engine was in your LX when do you did this comparison testing?

[ROD B]

Hey Rod, what engine was in your LX when do you did this comparison testing?


hey doesgo we did this last weekend.
and it came with the .25
why do you find it hard to believe or is that what you have been waiting to hear :D i didnt think it would but it did so now drtrx is
a dust collecter

[doesgo]

Unfortunately I got the Ultra GT LX for $260 from Ultimate Hobbies about two days before I found out Tower is selling the LX Pro for $300. I like the GT LX so far, but I'd have paid an additional $40 for the Pro in the blink of an eye if I could have. Force 25, threaded shocks, kickup chassis, nicer body, etc.

So I've got the GT LX with the Force 21 and my friend has the LX Pro with the 25 engine. Double-ouch. :(

I've also got an HPI NMT with a Fantom 15 that really goes and I'm very happy with it right now, but I'm guessing I'll be like you and kind of forget I even have the NMT once I really get the buggy broken-in and tuned. I've only got 1.5 tanks through the buggy so far (5 warm-up/cool-down sessions on one tank, then some low-intensity running around for another 2/3 tank) and I'm impressed already. I can only imagine what a tuned Force 25 or Hyper 8-port will do!

Knowing the actual top speed would be cool, but for me it's more important to be able to go fast enough to have fun and to beat my friends' cars. Other than the guy with the LX Pro, it shouldn't be a problem.

[anothermbdusted]

im going to be a little smart here.I highly doubt the .25 can go 50mph unless you got it so lean your going to blow the engine and even then i doubt it.the reason why i say this is because a friend of mine has got a collari tuned engine one of the best they make and he blows i mean BLOWS my doors off by a long shot.so i guess that if the .25 can go 50mph then his must be doing about 90-100mph then.As for the speed of the .25 I would have to say that it is about as fast as a .15 engine on a pro level.my .25 goes a bit faster then what my buddies rc10gt with a novarossi engine in it. now to be honest with you i would imagine that the engine probably goes about 40 top but not 50+ also depends on gearing of courseand rather it has a 2 spd 3 spd or what but in a off road car such as the lx pro i doubt it can go that fast.until i see a speed gun say it then i wont beleive it and ill tell you what im going to do I have a cop that lives across the street and ill see if he wouldnt mind checking the speed this weekend and then ill post what he says it is doing ok.until then have fun

[doesgo]

Thanks for the additional information, anothermbdusted. That's why I said I was more concerned with having fun than the actual number it runs, because actual numbers are tough to come by.

My NMT with the Fantom engine beat my friend's T-Maxx and another friend's Savage in a drag race, but all three vehicles are tons of fun and really are fast enough for 98% of what we do. So the number is meaningless other than for bragging rights, usable speed while bashing is what matters (to me).

My GT LX feels faster than my NMT, but comparing the two is very difficult without running them side-by-side. Besides, I haven't even gone for a top speed run in the buggy since it's nowhere near broken-in.

Without pacing a car with a speedo or using a radar gun, estimating speed is rediculous unless you have a lot of experience. Sure, most people can look at a 1:1 car going 30 mph and estimate pretty close, but the faster it goes the harder it is to guess accurately. Now try to do that with a tiny car (compared to 1:1) with a loud engine that's really screaming on a baseball diamond or even on a road. There are so many factors that can throw off speed estimates.

And sure, you can compare them to other vehicles with manufacturer-supplied top speed information, but who knows how accurate those are? And with the tuning variables, as well as temperature, gearing, tire, driver ability, radio adjustment, etc., it's an educated guess at best.

[anothermbdusted]

very well said doesgo my point exactly

[-=ADA$=-]

i would say it would do 50, didnt see it run yet, but i would say do like this get new maxx and do drag race, we have top speed of maxx (+- 2 mph) so it would be easier to estimete top speed, but with speedo it would be easier, and i dont say it would be accurate

[ROD B]

OOH ALIL COTROVERSY
ANOTHERM YOU SOUND WAY UP TIGHT BRO
SOME 1 ASK A QUESTION I GAVE THEM MY HONEST EVALUATION
WHETHER MY TOURING CAR GOES 50 LIKE THE MANUFACTURER
SAID OR NOT I MODIFIED IT LIKE WE ALL DO WITH THE OS 15
AND MY BUGGY BLEW IT AWAY ON THE STREET SO EVEN IF THE
BUGGY ONLY GOES 10 MPH IT GOT THERE FAST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT A NON ISSUE.
MY POINT REINSTATED,SO THIS WEEKEND WHEN YOUR PLAYING WITH YOUR COP PAL .
I TOO WOULD LIKE TO KNOW JUST HOW FAST YOUR LX PRO GOES
I PERSONALLY DONT SEE HOW YOU HAVE TROUBLE BELIEVING THAT A 10LB CAR WITH ALMOST 2.4 BHP COULD NOT REACH 50 MPH IF IT CAN BE DONE IN 10TH SCALE W/ 1/4 OF THE HORSE
POWER.
AND MAYBE YOU SHOULD CLOCK YOUR FRIENDS BIG MONEY
SET UP AND SEE FOR YOUR SELF WHAT KIND OF RESULTS YOU
GET.

IM NO RADAR DETECTOR I JUST KNOW FAST WHEN I SEE IT!
.....l8r. burned bizkits:mad: :confused: :rolleyes:

[anothermbdusted]

hey i dont mean any harm or nothing so dont get me wrong but i will post what i find out this weekend if hes home if not as soon as i do see him i will ask him to help me out and i dont got a lx pro i have a 9.5 with the .25 in it

[ROD B]

mb dusted
true that i just got a lil fired up when i read your post
because i my self did not think it would win the show
down and my friend had more faith in it than i did
and he was driving the hpi
its top speed might not be as high
but it gets there in a few feet and that kinda performance
wins real drag races

i was just at hongnors web site and they said the pirate 10 w/hyper 21 will do almost 60
now that i dont believe

even you said your 9.5 is all most as punchy as your buds collari
ofna put it there flag ship buggy for reason.


so i appolagize for being rude
hey if hongnor and hobao makes the buggys does ofna just import them.

thanks for understanding dude:D

[anothermbdusted]

no big man im cool with it all.yes ofna just imports everything for the two of them.so basically if you want to know what is possibly going to be coming to the states start looking at over seas websites I think. As for the .25 I like it for bashing its got a whole buch of torque and its pretty fast once it is broken in(youll know when the engine breaks in trust me mine dropped like 50 degrees in temps and runs like a bat out of he** after it did.I pulled the car in because i thought i ws going to run out of fuel and low and behold it had 1/2 tank still and was running at 195 instead of the preveious 265 needless to say i leaned it a bit more to raise temps back up and well i love it and i am learning on this engine so if i screw things up on it im not really worried about it) but I am planning on getting a ws7 possibly for it sometime in the future i was hoping for christmas but my girls want to many things so it will have to wait til later on

[ROD B]

it does put out a decent amount of power i doubled shimmed my diff to give it a locker effect and it pulls the front wheels up in the grass it still runs alil warm hot enough to sizzle spit but not too fast im not worried though i had the lhs guy tune it cuz hes had
a few ofnas.
what about the 0s rb,s those other ones r better or what i dont know much about 21s
jes that there fast as dubl hockey sticks

[anothermbdusted]

the ws7 is a rb concepts engine for off road its thier top of the line motor.As for the OS engines(no need for contraversy statements) I have heard that they make a excellent engine its just that they wear out quicker then most because of the materails they use rather it be true or not i dont know.
All i know is that I want to get a engine that going to last me for a while if taken care of properly and is going to be fast as he**.I'm in the middle of making a 9.5 racing truck so to speak and got parts ordered and will be here tomorrow so i will be posting pictures of it in the dominator topic area this week end and in the future also if it works.I want a dual purpose vehicle that i can use one for play and possibly racing the truck and then change it back to the buggy to race it locally also.hope it works well see i got the cnc knuckles and carriers for the front and am looking into the titanium hinge pins and turnbuckles when they come out also.but for now i only ordered the wheels and tire just in case it dont work.that way i dont got alot of things i can use laying around for nothing.and if it dont work well il keep them and buy a dominator next year to put them on to unless they come out with something better of course.good night

[mercenario27]

Could you look up the part number for the chassis w/ kick-up in your instructions

[doesgo]

When I heard about the kickup chassis in the LX Pro I thought it sounded pretty cool, but there's hardly any kickup at all! Maybe a couple degrees. Sure, my GT LX's chassis is flat as a pancake, but the kickup on the LX Pro is really minimal.

Is it the same in the upper-level Ofna buggies like the 9.5s and stuff or is the kickup on those more significant?

[-=ADA$=-]

as i know top racers have kick up of 5 degrees ( inferno, as i recall) so its not much

[p.n.e]

what does it mean to shim your diff's? i have heard this a lot but never done it before.

[ROD B]

hey who ever wanted that part# for the kicked up chassis its
34041 ofna prt# its 75.95 in the inst book it says it hard coated

no wonder it has no scratches on it

[-=ADA$=-]

it means putting proper number of shims behind pinion in diffs, to get the right gear mesh

[crank throw wei]

ADA: What I believe rob is refering to is shimming the diff side gears,to increase the the tension on the spider gears,letting them move less freely,thereby creating the "locker" effect he was refering to.

[doesgo]

I've got an Ultra GT LX RTR and I broke the stock nylon rear hub upright/carrier and also the axle. Where can I find replacements? Tower Hobbies doesn't seem to have them, nor does my LHS. The only place I saw them was on the Hong Nor website, I think it's part number A29, but I can't buy from them, or at least I can't figure out how.

Are aluminum upright upgrades available?

I don't mind the dogbones, but I see Ofna has an 8mm CVA upgrade under part number 36058 with CVAs, uprights, bearings, and hub adapters. I can't find this item anywhere, either, even just to get pricing.

Thanks for any help!

[crank throw wei]

doesgo: Go to http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com.They will have it,and many upgrades as well.BTW,the A-- number is obsolete.You will need a 5 digit number,but if you don't have it,the site is layed out decent enough that you may be able to find it anyway.Good luck!

P.S. We just had an AWESOME time in the snow today with our Ultra MBX R2! What a blast!

[coyote660]

hey doesgo...go to Nitrohouse...stock and options...

[doesgo]

Thanks a bundle guys, they both have lots o' stuff!

[PCC]

Originally posted by doesgo
When I heard about the kickup chassis in the LX Pro I thought it sounded pretty cool, but there's hardly any kickup at all! Maybe a couple degrees. Sure, my GT LX's chassis is flat as a pancake, but the kickup on the LX Pro is really minimal.

Is it the same in the upper-level Ofna buggies like the 9.5s and stuff or is the kickup on those more significant?

On my brother's Kyosho Kanai edition the front kick-up is only a few degrees (somewhere around 8-10 degrees). The OFNA front kickup is around 5-8 degrees. I don't know what it is on the 9.5.

[crank throw wei]

PCC: In the tech articles I've read on Ofnas,they only use 3 degrees.I'm sure the different manufacturers use different amounts,but 10 degrees sounds like a bunch! I think if you throw a protractor on that Kania,you'll be surprised how little it actually is. It's hard for me to believe that the small amounts everyone's using makes THAT much difference,but apparently it does,because the stuff I've read pretty much says your buggy is junk if you don't have it. That sux for guys like me with a flat bottom(Ultra MBX R2).I've thought of putting the kick in my chassis,but haven't figured out how to bring the caster angle back to stock,or if it's even really nessissary.I'll have to study the 9.5 to see how they do it.

[-=ADA$=-]

i have MBX R2 also, but didnt have chance to try it yet, caus i have no engine, :(:( and i cant wait to get one!! today i sanded my body, so now i have to go to LHS and buy paints (if theyll have them) and paint my little baby.

[crank throw wei]

ADA$: If I could recommend an engine? We've had VERY good luck with the Hyper 21 pull start.Very high power(2.3 HP),easy starting,idles forever,and runs at 200 degrees while making good power.And they're fairly cheap.It's really hard to imagine having more engine,as our buggy will do at least 50 mph with a single speed.:D

[jives]

The Hyper 7 comes stock with 8mm axles right?

Looking to do a 8mm Axle upgrade on my Ultra LX Pro using the 8mm Knuckles from the 9.5 (36051), front CVA from the Monster Pirate (18081), MP wheel Hubs (36054) up front and the Hyper 7 rear up rights (19036), either the MP CVA again or MP Axles and MP wheel hubs. From all the pictures I've seen and what details I can find I'm pretty sure about the hyper 7 having 8mm just want to be sure. I'm using lots of MP parts cause I already have several of the parts (spares for my MP).

I bent a front and rear axle just to replace the front part (15100) is $30 and probity just bend again or spend about $60 and upgrade the front to 8mm and use parts from the pirate which I already know are pretty tough. If the rears from the Hyper 7 will work then all I would need is those and the wheel hubs to complete the 8mm all the way round about $25 vs. the $10 just to replace the stock rear (30300).

[grimlock3000]

I am still really torn on which buggy is better as a basher. I am looking at getting a buggy for Xmas and the following two options look good to me:

*MBX R2 $180 + Hyper 21 8 port $140 + Hitec 625 servo $40 + Futaba 2PHKA w/2 servos $70 = $430

*LX Pro $300 + Hitec 625 servo $40 = $340

The MBX R2+ RTR, 7.5 RTR, and 9 RTR are all outside of what I can reasonably ask for. If I ask for a $400+ kit, I will end up with a bunch of socks ;) As it stands, if I ask for the MBX R2 I would be getting just the kit and engine as gifts and would buy the rest myself.

I originally thought the LX Pro was all around better than the MBX R2. After some futher digging around, from what i can tell, the MBX R2 setup would get me 8mm axles, full bearings, better engine, better radio, stronger front brace, pivot balls, and an extra servo. If the MBX R2 has any other advantages, someone please let me know.

In another thread someone said,

"Deffinatly the LX Pro. It probably won't be any faster or slower than the MBX but it has alot better parts on it and more upgrades."

Better parts? What parts are better other than the kickup chassis?

Anyway, I am just going to be bashing and will not race at all. Ease of tuning, "wow factor", durability, and future support are my main concerns. Any thoughts? I really need some help making up my mind before it is too late :o

[anothermbdusted]

i dont know if this is true or not but on ofnas website in thier forums alot of people have been stripping the diffs out on a regular bases on the lx pro and as for bashing and all that stuff i would look at the 9.5 has the potentail to race and is tough as nials so far for me i do mostly bashing around but still want to be able to race also if i want to.

[NitroRookie]

Which one of these two buggy would you get ?

[anothermbdusted]

to be honest with you neither.i wuold get the pro version then by the motor and other stuff reason why i say this is because your going to find the weak spots and wish you got the pro version but betwwen the two of those rtr's i would chose the hyper 7 rtr because it has a .21 motor so you can race and it is alot faster then the .25 engine that comes in the 9.5.the only problem with your choice is that i would wait for the new hyper 7 to come with the hyper 8 port engine.

[jives]

So far I've only stripped on set of center diff gears if you read onfa site there is a number to call to get 3 sets because they forgot to put the shims AKA washers on the 4 smaller gears which messes up the mesh. Haven't stripped another set since i rebuilt it with the shims.

grimlock3000,

MBX has Pivot Ball, 8mm axles and Tower (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXV2&P=7) says it has Planetary Diffs, can't find a picture of the gears (31324) to say for sure since I don't have one. There maybe more difference but those are the points I'd look at since I have stripped a set of diff gears and bent the axles on my Ultra LX Pro.

For the $90 plus time to complete it's probity a bit better in terms of durablity.

[PCC]

Originally posted by crank throw wei
PCC: In the tech articles I've read on Ofnas,they only use 3 degrees.I'm sure the different manufacturers use different amounts,but 10 degrees sounds like a bunch! I think if you throw a protractor on that Kania,you'll be surprised how little it actually is. It's hard for me to believe that the small amounts everyone's using makes THAT much difference,but apparently it does,because the stuff I've read pretty much says your buggy is junk if you don't have it. That sux for guys like me with a flat bottom(Ultra MBX R2).I've thought of putting the kick in my chassis,but haven't figured out how to bring the caster angle back to stock,or if it's even really nessissary.I'll have to study the 9.5 to see how they do it.

Okay, I forgot the actual numbers but I remember that the Kyosho has a little more than the OFNAs did.

To get the caster angle back, couldn't you just change the caster on the front suspension? I thought that was part of the reason for getting the pillow-ball suspension. The Worlds chassis would make your MBX R2 a R2+ and be a direct fit.

I actually have the castor block front suspension for the Worlds II sitting around waiting for universals and bearings (I have the Worlds I front suspension on my buggy complete with 6mm axles).

[crank throw wei]

PCC:You sound like your more up on the different chassis,and parts configurations than I am! I will look into your suggestions.Here's the way I'm looking at it:
*The front suspension has adjustment on only the upper control arm for caster.It is shimmed all the way forward from the factory,and that is how I have left it,for no other reason than I haven't seen a need to change it. Adding a kick-up to the existing chassis,would mean having to move the upper contol arm further forward,and their isn't room to do so.If I play with the castor now,with the chassis flat,and find out that it could be adjusted rearward without upsetting the balance of the car,then that would give me the adjustment I need to kick up the front.I just wish I had some Ofna cars in front of me,to see how the other ones do it(like do they run more caster,or do they use different upper control arms).:confused:

[Brett93'Coupe]

Which FUTABA servo is the best one to get for the front(steering) of my LX pro RTR 1/8th scale buggy?

i'm looking for a good comprimise between price and getting the wheels turned so i can make it aorund the race track. Price and places to order are appreciated

thanks

[LosiGuy62314]

seeing as that christmas is almost here and that means presents (money for me). I am trying to figure out how to spend that money. i have decided about three plans.

1) Keep my XXX-NT RTR and buy a bunch of hop ups (graphite stuff, threaded shocks, new servos)

2) Sell my NT w/o radio gear and buy an Ofna Ultra LX Pro two new servos (HS-5625MG for steering, HS-475HB for throttle) and put my JR XR2 in it

3) Sell my NT w/o radio gear and buy the RC12L3 kit and all the goodies needed to make it fully race legal. and put my XR2 in it.

its a tuff decision for me because they are all very good cars and i like all of them. any opinions??

[PCC]

Originally posted by crank throw wei
I just wish I had some Ofna cars in front of me,to see how the other ones do it(like do they run more caster,or do they use different upper control arms).:confused:
I'm near San Fran, where are you?

[mercenario27]

Steve from SSR/C Parts sells hex adapters for ofna buggies to run 2.2 rims. Steve has pictures my buggy posted on his site with and without the adapters showing it with 2.2 rims, if anyone is interested. He also has some nice Shock towers for the Gtlx/Blazer/MBX that puts Ofna's Shock towers to same even their so called upgrade cnc towers

[crank throw wei]

PCC: You know the movie 8 mile? Well I live just north of that,off of ten mile,in Warren Michigan.We couldn't be much further apart!I guess we'll just have to use pics.Do you have a digital cam?

[hellbilly]

ok im sorry for this, i really am. but i have a common question. what are the advantages/disadvantages of GTLX vs LXPro. years ago i got a Worlds GT in a trade deal and i kept for a little while, so i have an idea of what you would probably be referring to. also, has anybody else seen a RTR GTLX with the .25? my hobby shop has one(saw it myself). hobby shop is selling GTLX(w/.25) for $340 and LXPro(w/.25) for $350. both RTR. also, what torque requirements should i be looking for in steering servo? im sure the factory installed isnt enough

[doesgo]

I just bought a GT LX for $260 off Ultimate Hobbies and a friend just got an LX Pro from Tower Hobbies for $300. I would have got the Pro if I had known. Timing is everything. :(

Anyway, the LX Pro has a kick-up chassis, the GT LX does not. The kickup is minor (5 degrees?), but it's there.

The LX Pro comes with the Force 25 engine, the GT LX comes with the Force 21. But if you can get your GT LX with the 25, that's a wash.

The paint job on the LX Pro's body is better looking (in my opinion) than that which comes with the GT LX, but that's personal preference. The LX Pro's body is trimmed, while the GT LX's isn't.

The LX Pro has threaded shocks with socks. The GT LX has non-threaded shocks with shaft seal things, but they're not the regular full-length socks.

The LX Pro has an air filter support wire, the GT LX does not. Minor point, one could easily be added to the GT LX, but it is a difference.

The LX Pro has a transponder mount, the GT LX does not.

The LX Pro has turnbuckles for adjusting rear camber, the GT LX has threaded rods.

The LX Pro has dual six-spoke wheels (six spokes, but each spoke has two parallel pieces), the GT LX has 5-spoke wheels. Same tires come on each buggy.

I can't think of anything else other than different chassis bracing. Same radio, same servos, same radio box, etc.

Personally, I'd definitely pay the extra $10 and get the Pro. Or what I'd really do is order one up from Tower for $300.

[jives]

hellbilly, something around 70-80oz/in; the Hitec HS-605BB has worked well in my cousin's Axis, I put a TS-70 (aka Hitec HS-645) and it's too much IMO really easy to oversteer.

Oh as to parts and setups on different Ofna Buggies, I'm planning on scanning the manual for the Ultra LX Pro (and others as well) and making pdfs for download. If anyone else wants to scan a manual the another buggy and e-mail me the images I'll gladly make a PDF of it and host it.

[Crashbot2001]

Just a bit of info for your guys worrying about adding castor..

I got the set-up for My Hyper 7 Pro from one of the Ofna team drivers. The Hyper 7 Pro comes with three sets of front uprights to change castor. 19degree(stocK) 20 degree and 22 degree. He told me to runt he 22 degree. Not sure what you guys have as stock, but adding a few degrees more will probably help, not hurt

[anothermbdusted]

the ultra mbx pro just came out no pics yet but ofnas web site states somethings about it

[PCC]

Originally posted by crank throw wei
Do you have a digital cam? Nope.

[willt]

Is there a 2 speed tranny out or that would work on the LX Pro?

thanks,
Will

[jives]

Last I was told the 2 speed for the GT and maybe the MBX will work. #35001 or #35011

[morfracerX]

Hey if anyone has a Ofna P4 can you scan in the mannual, i can get this dam bellcrank on the clutch. i cant find a screw that will fit the crankshaft so that i can tighten the bell on, i think i'm doing this wrong but with no mannual and a motor i dont care about it matters not. anyway if any of you guys know how to do this or have the manual let me know.]\

[jives]

Well I hope to have the Ultra LX Pro Manual scanned today and on the web. Which will have the stuff on the .25

But in the quick help area
http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/dtxc0070-exploded.pdf

The diagram they show for the Axis engine is the same one Ofna uses...in fact look close you can see the FC on the side of the crank case :)

[crank throw wei]

Crashbot: Thanks for the numbers! That really helps me make a decision.I measured the caster on our MBX,and it's 18 degrees at it's minimum position.If I put a 3 degree kick in the chassis(as I understand Ofna does in other cars) that will give me a 1 degree adjustment negative to your reccommended number (22). That was really the missing piece of the caster puzzle I needed! Thanks for the input!
Duane


:D :D :D :D

[coyote660]

hey morf...3x5mm screw & 3x8mm washer ought to do ya.

[morfracerX]

Well, thanks for the tips you two. i found out what the problem was and an $8 clutchnut killed what could have been a great day at the track. o well now i just get to wait till next week or sunday.

[willt]

What are some good sites to order a Ultra LX Pro from? The only place I can find it is at NitroHouse for $370 and on order supposedly getting there in mid december, for $300 on Tower Hobbies. Are there any other web sites that have them?

thanks,
Will

[jives]

Tower is the cheapest that's where I got my two from.

Nitrohouse $349
Ace-Hobbies $379 also has the MBX R2 for $180, 80% (See grimlock3000's post below)

Ultimatehobbies has the older GT LX for $260

[KOLOR KRAFT]

HELP ON DECISION so is the lx pro any good or get the 9.5 pro and also are any parts the same on lx pro as the mbx like the diffs and cvds and dog bones...........thanks
ps or quiet screwing around and get the mugen.

[TXTRCR]

ok first i love this car the way it looks, how well balanced it is the quality of the parts, and the way a kit smells when you first open it up. i just got i yesterday and i have one problem you see this is only my second nitro and i cant for the life of me get this large .25 engine to start growling. my reciever batteries are charged i have fresh batteries in my radio and my glow plug is brand new. the only thing is im using the glow starter that ofna included with the kit and i dont think its works well enough to get the plug hot. i pulled the plug and installed it in the end of the igniter and i heard it sizzle but i saw no coils glow red. could you guys or gals recomend a glow starter that actually works most of the time. it would be greatly appreciated. oh almost forgot does the engine come preset in the RTR kit. is the carb set rich allready or do i have to richen it up a little. i dont want to kill the engine right off the bat. so any help you could provide to a nitro newcomer will be appreciated. thanks Ofna Ultra LX Pro RTR with pullstart .25 just to make sure you all know which buggy this is.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

you need a glow starter with a volt gauge so you no you have enough power, when you attach the plug to the starter it should be red if not starter isn't fully charged or a bad plug ,the starter i use is super shot long nose one.

[-=ADA$=-]

I have glo starter with meter, and its great and the coil inside should be orange almost yellow, its best.

[morfracerX]

kraft


i don't know if you have already posted this but I am to lazy right now to find out so here we go.

The buggy you pick depends a lot on what you will be doing with it. the 9.5 (or hyper7) are really racers and will be great on the track, not saying that they will brake a lot if you bash them (my worlds 2 never did) but they have a higher chance of braking while bashing. Anything else OFNA makes (besides the worlds 2) grab it if you want to bash more then race, not saying that the LX pro is not a good racing buggy but i like the H7 the W2 and the 9.5 a lot better (well the look of the H7 and the 9.5).


TXTRCR
it just sounds like you have one of two problems.

1. Your battery in your glow ignitor is dead or needs to be recharged.
2. The glow plug is a dud and needs to be replaced.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i am looking to race only and practice in the back yard what is the big difference in lx pro and 9.5 for racing purposes.right now the mbx is blowing stuff apart with my rb s7 but it is fast. i don't want to make another mistake but i do like the mugen also, but for the money how bad could the lx pro be............ what could possibly brake that makes them bad for racing or you just can't get it to handle.

[jives]

Well one the .25 isn't legal to race so you'll need a different engine. Under hard driving the 6mm axles can bend which is why the 8mm are found on most "Racer" buggies.

The LX Pro is a great budget buggy IMO blows all the other Sub $400 options away but if you're think Mugen vs. LX Pro, I'd be heading more toward the Hyper 7 Pro or 9.5 MBX. I'm waiting to see what the new Ultra MBX Pro is going to cost.

PS Finally got the manual for the LX Pro done not the greatest but it'll have to do, if you wonder why the page sizes are different well has to do with the fact I thought thew ADF scanner at work would be better in the end it was faster to just scan them in by hand and flip the pages :)

Ultra LX Pro 11M (http://eeshop.unl.edu/jpages/jrc_files/UltraLXPro.pdf)

[-=ADA$=-]

i have resetted shocks on my MBX R2, to get biggest clearance, and its high, but the front wheels are pointing outside, it has positive (i think) camber, and when i compress the suspension it will straighten the wheels, shoud i change the lenght of the rods, to make wheels paralell, (but when supension will be compressed they will have negative camber) ir leave it like this??

[crank throw wei]

ADA$:Positive camber is the bottom of the wheel pointed further out than the top,negative is the bottom further in.Here is how we set up our Ultra MBX R2,which produces slight positive camber at full compression(jounce)

*First,set your upper control arms to the outboard(lower) hole.

*Next,with the wheels off,place some weight on the car,so that the chassis plate rests on the table.This approximates the 1/2 travel point.

* Using a square,carefully check the small ring in the center of the hub,behind the drive hex.Adjust it to be perfectly square.You may find it easier to remove the hex,or to to fab up some sort of plate to bolt onto the drive hex,but with practice,that isn't nessisary.

*make sure your pivot balls are as tight as they can be without binding before starting the above adjustment!Clean them out if they bind,but if the slop is still their,and apply a coat of auto wax(no grease,or anything that will attract dirt !) to them before Loc-tite ing the caps back on.

I hope this helps!:)

[KOLOR KRAFT]

on the lx pro are the diffs the same as the mbx and can you change the axle size to 8mm from the 6mm in other words are there any parts the same as the mbx besides the pillow ball suspension i no is different. and i was going to sell the 2.5 motor because i have rbs7 that just plan rips........and should work perfect in the buggy.

[-=ADA$=-]

thanks Crank, but what is when tires piont outside (when you look at the top of the buggy?? cause i have max ride height, but the wheels turn whe i compress the suspension, also what is ackerman(sp) cuase i heard something about it but dont know what it is. thanks by the way!!

[crank throw wei]

Ada$: Sounds like you have toe out,Which will wear tires quickly,and is rarely used,except to "loosen" a car up(not steer so quickly) in a racing situation. To fix your problem,first remove the wheels,and weight car as before.

*Turn on your car and radio

*Zero your steering trim

*With a straight edge,lay it across both front and rear hubs

*adjust your tie rods until the straight edge lies flat on the hub center

*do this at all 4 hubs

*recheck the fronts after doing the rears

*You should now have everthing set to zero

*most people run a slight amount of toe in,to counter the wheels tendency to pull outward at speed,1/2 turn in plenty,front and rear,unless your racing,then some guys run more in the rear.


**Akerman is an effect that is controlled by changing the outer tie rod mounting point,which changes the amount the wheels turn at full lock.Alot of akerman would make the inside tire turn further than the outside tire,makeing the inside tire "work harder"(because it now has less weight on it)in a turn.The MBX R2 has no way to change the akerman.:)

[crank throw wei]

One more thing,If your tires are turning when it goes though it's travel,that's bump steer.You really shouldn't have much,or any! Check that your tie rods are mounted on top of the hubs and steering arms.There is otherwise no adjustment,unless you start shimming the tie rods ,which you shouldn't need to do.But if you do,shim them to parllel the control arms,with the car set up(weighted) as before.:)

[hellbilly]

anybody ever convert one to rally car? if so how does one do this, and what bodies are available? im seriously considering LX Pro but i would like to convert to rally car instead of dune buggy.

[mercenario27]

buy the GTP body and Body Posts and you have a rally car with the same suspension as the LX

[morfracerX]

I have had the stuff to turn my monster pirate into a GTP for about a year now. i for siome reason never got around to it, you will need a front shock tower as well the body mounts and the bumper. you will also want a new set of rims/tires. it will cost you around $60-70 but thanks to LR i got my stuff for free (sucker!!!!!)

[Lost Racer1]

Originally posted by crank throw wei
ADA$:Positive camber is the bottom of the wheel pointed further out than the top,negative is the bottom further in.Here is how we set up our Ultra MBX R2,which produces slight positive camber at full compression(jounce)

*First,set your upper control arms to the outboard(lower) hole.

*Next,with the wheels off,place some weight on the car,so that the chassis plate rests on the table.This approximates the 1/2 travel point.

* Using a square,carefully check the small ring in the center of the hub,behind the drive hex.Adjust it to be perfectly square.You may find it easier to remove the hex,or to to fab up some sort of plate to bolt onto the drive hex,but with practice,that isn't nessisary.

*make sure your pivot balls are as tight as they can be without binding before starting the above adjustment!Clean them out if they bind,but if the slop is still their,and apply a coat of auto wax(no grease,or anything that will attract dirt !) to them before Loc-tite ing the caps back on.

I hope this helps!:)

Your camber settings are backwards;) Negative camber is / \
and Positive is \ / :)

[LkHse]

What shock oil do u recommend I use for our own smaller track, its kind o loose, but it has some hard spots. I dont want the buggy to sag like it is right now. I have a 9.5 RTR

[jerry426]

I'd like to put a 2-speed in my 9.5 buggy. Can anyone offer suggestions or advice? Thanks!

[crank throw wei]

Lost racer 1: I stand corrected;I did indeed have my camber terminology reversed.But since the goal is to get the set up completly neutral,it has no effect on the outcome.:)

[willt]

help me understand about interference on your radio and servos and crap. I just dont get it, i mean there are different channel crystals and diff mHz crystals(27 and 75) what does all this mean? is it like if your getting interference on channel 1 frequency 27 you go to channel 2 and if that doesnt work and you cycle through all your available channels on 27 and you still have interference you go to 75 frequency? im losing my mind trying to figure this out? please help!!?

thanks,
Will

ps also how would you go about clearing up an interference problem? ive got a truck that will just take off and go crazy after running for a while, its interference so what do i do?

[doesgo]

How do I go about filling the diffs in my GT LX with diff lube? Is there an access hole that's plugged with a screw or something? Or do I have to remove the diffs and take them apart?

Also, what weight oil would you recommend? OFNA says start with 3000 in the front and rear and 5000 in the center.

Thirdly, why do the put center diffs in these buggies? Seems like it'd be better to have a solid link to the front and rear so if one end gets loose the other end can keep pulling.

Thanks.

[jives]

Originally posted by doesgo
How do I go about filling the diffs in my GT LX with diff lube? Is there an access hole that's plugged with a screw or something? Or do I have to remove the diffs and take them apart?

No access hole just pull one end off.

Originally posted by doesgo
Also, what weight oil would you recommend? OFNA says start with 3000 in the front and rear and 5000 in the center.

WT is relative to brand, so Ofna 3000 is different than others, I used Nitro Blast Green Diff lub in all mine.

Originally posted by doesgo
Thirdly, why do the put center diffs in these buggies? Seems like it'd be better to have a solid link to the front and rear so if one end gets loose the other end can keep pulling.

From what I can figure the Center diff is all about speed. In most places a 2WD is faster than a 4WD. In theory putting power to the wheels with least resistance makes you go faster. So if all four tires are on the ground with equal traction then this means the wheels with the least amount of loss in the drive line have the most power meaning more RPMs more speed.

As for a solid drive you’d really need to have a slippery clutch if there was no center diff. The Monster Pirate which is built from a Buggy has a solid center drive for climbing but it has a problem with stripping gears time to time. The Dominator has a slippery cause it’s more suited to race and make large jumps.

[jives]

Originally posted by willt
help me understand about interference on your radio and servos and crap. I just dont get it, i mean there are different channel crystals and diff mHz crystals(27 and 75) what does all this mean? is it like if your getting interference on channel 1 frequency 27 you go to channel 2 and if that doesnt work and you cycle through all your available channels on 27 and you still have interference you go to 75 frequency? im losing my mind trying to figure this out? please help!!?

The channels are just narrow band RF sections for TX, you don’t start from one and move you just pick one that someone else is not on. Interference comes from something or someone else broadcasting or transmitting on or around the same frequency as you.

Maybe I’m misunderstanding what you asking here.

[doesgo]

Thanks for the diff oil info.

Can anyone suggest a good manifold/header and pipe to go on my GT LX with the Force 21 engine? Or is the stock setup good enough that I won't see much improvement? More power and rpm is good, but if spending $50 won't net me much of a gain, it's not worth it.

[jives]

Well I've never heard anyone say they didn't get a gain with a RB 063 pipe but...sadly it more about trial and error when it comes to finding the "right" combo.

I'm looking at grabing a 9.5 pipe figure I'll try it on my Ultra LX Pro if it doesn't help then put it on the Pirate if it don't help there at least it will look better :)

[willt]

So if me and a buddy are both on 27mHz but im on channel 1 and hes on channel 2 we should be ok? And if not and each of us need to be on a different frequency, one of us would need the 75mhz and the other on the 27mHz? What if you get interference on 27mHz channel 1, could you switch to channel 2 and get rid of the interference or would you have to switch frequency? the only 2 frequencies i can find is 75 and 27 so what if you get interference on both? please help??!!!

thanks,
Will:(

[crank throw wei]

Willt: 27 and 75 are the only 2 freqs you can use legally.They are both reserved for ground vehicles(cars and boats) And yes,as long as you and your friend are on different channels,you'll be fine.Your interference is the big concern.The most important thing to check first, is for loose parts on the car.Just a loose screw can cause it.Anything metal to metal that can vibrate can cause glitching.Try tightening every screw on the car,even if it doesn't look loose.A big one to look for is the brake lever rods,which can vibrate around in the eyelets.They're easily fixed with shrink wrap.

[willt]

hey thanks a bunch, i kinda get it now! so ill check the screws and stuff and hopefully thatll fix the problem. Thanks again!

thanks,
Will

[mercenario27]

I want to post pics for my new shock towers and hub adapters made by SS R/C Racing (http://www.geocities.com/ssrcparts), but tripod, geocities, even roadrunner are shuting me down. Where can I get a good host for free. Thanx

[doesgo]

I don't know of any good free hosts, but I can host a pic for you for this particular situation if you'd like. If so, send me an e-mail at bruce@2quicknovas.com

[doesgo]

Originally posted by mercenario27
I want to post pics for my new shock towers and hub adapters made by SS R/C Racing (http://www.geocities.com/ssrcparts)
http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/shocktower1.jpg

[morfracerX]

Try here they will host it for free.

http://www.imagestation.com/

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by mercenario27
I want to post pics for my new shock towers and hub adapters made by SS R/C Racing (http://www.geocities.com/ssrcparts), but tripod, geocities, even roadrunner are shuting me down. Where can I get a good host for free. Thanx


SSrc has another site around on tripod, it not done yet but looks sweet if you ask me. i cant wait to get my shock towers and hubs. o joy o joy

[doesgo]

Originally posted by mercenario27
...my new shock towers and hub adapters made by SS R/C Racing (http://www.geocities.com/ssrcparts)
http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/shocktower2.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/shocktower3.jpg

[doesgo]

Is that a GT LX with a Force 25? Did you have a Force 21 in it first? If so, how's the power and rpm difference?

[doesgo]

I'm looking for some springs for my GT LX that are a little bit stiffer than the stock chrome ones. What do you guys typically use? OFNA parts aren't that common at the LHS, is there another brand that will fit OFNA shocks?

Also, have any of you guys used OFNA's aluminum clutch shoes?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

KYOSHO WHITE SPRINGS ARE ABOUT THE BEST A LOT STIFFER THAN STOCK.

[morfracerX]

Hey anyone ever use two kinds of tires on their car? I am looking for some onroad tires and my LHS only has 3 tires (don't ask). Anyway they will be onroad tires for motor tuning and whatnot. Anyway do you guys think it would make the car unbearably unstable with different sets of tires in the front and rear? if all works fine all I will need for that long await GTP conversion is a GTP bod.

[crank throw wei]

MorphracerX:Although I've never done it,as long as the tires are the same diameter,Iwouldn't think you'd have any problems.They probably should have the same inserts,so tire growth at speed is the same also.

[morfracerX]

i have three of these, i just need to buy another set. well i think these are them. if not they will be the set i am useing
http://ofna.com/images/tire-85021.jpg
1/8, Wide Streets
Part#: 85021

or they could be these i dont know.

http://ofna.com/images/tire-82011.jpg
1/8, Medium Streets
Part#: 82011

[mercenario27]

No it is not a GTLX, it is a MBX R2 w/ hyper 21. Am I the only one had troubles with the stock towers bending?

[Krishnen]

I run my buggy on asphalt a lot and I would like to know what tires would last longest. Are the slick tires from Ofna any good?

[morfracerX]

tip of the day!!!!


Monster pirate motor mounts wont fit on the 9.5. (back to waiting for the 9.5 parts to come in )

[morfracerX]

by the way, anyone know if the stone guards come with the mounting hardware (screws)? i won a set of them off ebay and wont to know if i should order some more screws while i am waiting on my motor mounts to come in. (yellow guards what else)

[Lost Racer1]

Originally posted by morfracerX
by the way, anyone know if the stone guards come with the mounting hardware (screws)? i won a set of them off ebay and wont to know if i should order some more screws while i am waiting on my motor mounts to come in. (yellow guards what else)

I'm pretty sure they won't come with screws.

I coulda told you the MP motor mounts wouldn't fit..;)

You pick up that clutch nut yet?? Who's your daddy?:D

[morfracerX]

ok well now i have to find some 3x10mm tapping screws.
Thanks for bei

ng so helpful, what would i ever do with out your help (besides live happy:D :D ).

Yea i got the dam clutch nut, thats when i found out the motor mounts where a no go. and his name is Jerry Wilbourn why ever do you ask :D :D :D

[jives]

Originally posted by morfracerX
tip of the day!!!!


Monster pirate motor mounts wont fit on the 9.5. (back to waiting for the 9.5 parts to come in )

Just too long to fit the space? That was the problem I had with trying toi use them in my Ultra LX Pro. I didn't really need to use them I was just trying a fast .25/hyper swap, but I'm sure they would have worked if I cut them down.

[crank throw wei]

mersonario 27: I have the exact same set-up as you,and have never bent a shock tower! And we beat the holy you know what out of it.How in the world are you bending them?

[mercenario27]

You should see some of the hills we are jumping up and down. I hold the record of the longest cart wheel in the club.

http://schenectadyrcclub.tripod.com

Goto the Photo Gallery section

[crank throw wei]

SWEET! Are you,or your ride in any of the pics?

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by jives
Just too long to fit the space? That was the problem I had with trying toi use them in my Ultra LX Pro. I didn't really need to use them I was just trying a fast .25/hyper swap, but I'm sure they would have worked if I cut them down.


Thats funny, the mounts are to narrow for the 9.5. i had an extra set and was hoping i would get to use them for somthing.

[crank throw wei]

I just ordered a set of X= blue tires,and when it came to inserts,I ordered the NHV (blue-black-blue). I have never read anything about them.Just therorizing,but it would seem that having the stiffer foam in the middle,would keep the tire from growing as much,thereby keeping a flatter tread profile at speed,while retaining a soft sidewall for bite in the corners.

Does anybody have any expirience with these inserts?

[LkHse]

Hey man, on your site, on the third one down..how the heck did u get ure truck so high in the air? the baseball feild one...i cant even see a ramp. When that thing landed did u still have a truck? or was it just an engine and half of a broken chassis

[snevin1]

Am new here and looking for some help. Tried to upgrade my 6mm axles front and rear with OFNA parts ordered via LHS. They do not fit - are for Worlds buggies. Anyone know of 8mm CVA upgrade kits or even the possibility to do such an upgrade on the LX Pro? Only 6 tanks of fuel and tried jumping and cart wheeled her forever and bent everything. No more jumps until I know what I'm doing.

Thanks much,
Scott

[Vmax911]

You could take the front and rear suspension setup from an MBX r2, they are 8mm. They used to have some on ebay, (look for "pivot ball conversion.") I also have a set I don't need if you are interested.

[mercenario27]

That pic of the Tmaxx in the air over the baseball diamond is 100% real. There is no ramp or any kind of jump. That was Big Bob's First Annual Tmaxx Toss. I got real pissed off at it and he decided to toss the thing as far as he could. the only thing that broke was a front bulkhead. Believe it or not the Tmaxx landed on all fours.

[LkHse]

bahhaha funny stuff, now why would u throw a Tmaxx that high in the air?

[snevin1]

In this conversion for MBX r2, do you replace upper/lower swing arms too? and if so, will they actually fit my diff housings? Folks here say the pivot ball is weaker setup than the c hubs. Any opinion on this? I'm full of questions with no answers. I have emailed OFNA a couple times with no reply so will call them today on all this.
Thanks for the help,
Scott

[jives]

I'm still working on a 8mm not Pivot ball setup my orginal idea about using Pirate parts isn't working. I figure I'll ask JR ar Ace hobbies maybe he has some ideas, other wise I think I'll just buy the rest of the arms and C-Hubs from the Hyper 7 and try those since I have some of those parts already as well.

[crank throw wei]

Snevin1: I think that's an exellent question! I have an MBX R2,and have never had any breakage problems,except for a control arm once. I have,however,heard on these pages of guys breaking "c" hubs.The higher end buggies are all equiped with "c"s though.

So,I'de like to start a poll:

* Which design do you think is better,and why?

*Which do you think is more durable?

*Is it worth the expense to upgrade(from ball to "c",or vice versa)

:confused:

[ROD B]

well guys i have bent the shock towers on my lx pro
it usually happens when i flip it end over on asphault or golf grass

as for me i prefer the c hub for simplicity but if your into racing
the pillow ball would be the way to go.
my friend just got a 9.5 mbx im anxious to see just how much better than the lx this should be interesting since they have
the same engines.
i will post my findings soon
when i can afford to im gonna get the hyper7 pro:cool:

[-=ADA$=-]

Crank not all top buggies uses c hub: Mugen MBX XR, and now look at 9,5 so i think its gaining popularity, its more complicated but gives chance to adjust suspension on the fly almost, on the track, without the trouble of carying tons of parts. so i think its great resolution,

[Lost Racer1]

Originally posted by ROD B
when i can afford to im gonna get the hyper7 pro:cool:
H7 Pro 0wnz:cool: (IMO)
ADA posted as I was typing :p

That is true on what you say on the pro buggies suspension adjustments.

I've run buth suspensions, and of the 2 I think I like the c-hubs better. They're kinda like a set and go deal. You don't have to worry about them moving and throwing off your suspension measurements. I mean they're basically pre-measured for you in degrees. IMO unsless your're racing for a living, I don't believe you'll notice a 2mm difference in castor while running.

[morfracerX]

i had balls on my worlds2 but all in all i like the c hubs much better,. the b's where alot harder to get set just right and for me it didn't matter that much but for a true racer it would kill a race fast. I'm happy my 9 came with c's.

Anyway tip of the day :D :D :D
the side guards do come with screws.

on a lighter note if anyone wants some limegreen side wings let me know.

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by Lost Racer1
H7 Pro 0wnz:cool:

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[crank throw wei]

Starting with me:

Balls- 3

"C"s-2

So far.....:)

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by crank throw wei
Starting with me:

Balls- 3

"C"s-2

So far.....:)

shouldn't that be
"balls 2"
"C's 3"

lol sorry

[crank throw wei]

Maybe it depends on how you translate Rod B's comment:
as for me i prefer the c hub for simplicity but if your into racing
the pillow ball would be the way to go.

Kinda ambiguous as to his preferance overall.I'm counting it as balls.:confused:

[Vmax911]

I Like pivot balls. (Made sure I put pivot in there).

Probably because I like tweaking my cars, and the adjustments on a pivot ball setup are very quick and easy.

It's all preference. Changing your setup from C to PV isn't going to take you from last place to first place or vice versa.

[coyote660]

"C"zzzzz

[morfracerX]

Tip 4,348,792
Part number #19173.(yellow sideguards is not for the 9.5, they are to long.

4,348,793
Not all ofna side guards will fit on all ofna buggies, so if you buy them off ebay make sure to get a part number and that they are the right ones.

you guys stick with me i will save you some cash :D :D

[morfracerX]

on a side note let me know if anyone wants them, i have a lime green set for the 9.5 and a yellow set for the "ofna buggy" but i have no idea what ofna buggy. PM me if anyone wants them.

[mercenario27]

Originally posted by LkHse
bahhaha funny stuff, now why would u throw a Tmaxx that high in the air?
No, Bob really threw the Maxx that far. I couldn't believe that he would do that to a $500 rc car. Check out the Picture of Bob jumping down the stairs, he almost hit a little girl running up the stairs. The girl got away from her father. We were too busying paying attention to bob to notice the girl on the stairs until it was to late. Thank God the girl was not hit.

[racer13]

hello guys, my brother bought a hyper 7 rtr from a friend for $100, but it was in peices. i look at it and he has the whole front end off. looks like the front of the chassis is bend up a tiny bit , the center drive shaft is bent/broken, the front shock nitrades(sp) are broken, and some other things but i dont know what they are. the only problem i have is finding parts, it doesn't have a manual w/ part numbers so i dont know which to look for, and searching threw a few hundred parts on stormer/tower isnt fun.. is there any online manuals for the hyper 7??

[LouisB]

Gohere (http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/hobao/hyper7/hyper7build/hyper7index.html) there are exploded diagrams with part# on some of the steps, hopfully the ones u need:)

[morfracerX]

or here (http://www.ofna.com/manuals.html)
\
or hgere (http://www.nitrohouse.com/hyper_7_parts.htm)

Those should help you out, but the best thing to do would be to order oine from OFNA it sounds like you will be needing it alot

[racer13]

i looked for some of the parts i need... chassis, center cvd's, and thats already $100.. it might be better just to find a used no motor, etc roller some where =\

[willt]

I know this is a dumb question but oh well, you never ask you never know, I just wondered on the Ofna factory glow plugs #51007, it comes with two i guess copper gaskets to install it in the head, are you supposed to use both? Ive got a TMAxx and it just uses one!

thanks,
Will

[Vmax911]

No such thing as a dumb question, at least that is what I hear. :)

But just use one gasket, just like on your Maxx.

[NitroRookie]

With help from mmurray70 over on the Maxxtraxx Message Board. I've decided I'm going to be getting myself an Ofna 9.5 MBX RTR Buggy.

[racer13]

Here's some pics of my ofna hyper 7 in peices


bent chassis:

[racer13]

broken shocks and turnbuckle:

[racer13]

bent center shaft:

[Marky]

crikey....how did the previous owner manage to bust both shafts and the turnbuckles :confused: :confused:
My guess is that the set up was wrong and he had a very heavy landing....if the set up is to hard the shafts are the first things to go....learn't the hard way :( ......make sure that when you lift the buggy up off the ground you have some drop in the A-arms...since i have adopted this setup i have not busted a shaft in a long time, and i have'd some pretty hard landings too ;)

Marky

[jives]

Originally posted by jives
...I figure I'll ask JR ar Ace hobbies maybe he has some ideas, ...

Word from JR is they where putting a kit togehter themsleves for $69, but Ofna has said there will be a Kit out after the Holidays.

[racer13]

Marky, his throttle got stuck and he went WOT into a wall =\! i think he was racing a car during the process.

[Marky]

Originally posted by racer13
Marky, his throttle got stuck and he went WOT into a wall =\! i think he was racing a car during the process.


That would explain a few things :D

[willt]

Hey, I know this is asking a lot but could somebody "in the know", explain the proper steps of breakin for the .25? I just want to get the most, both performance and durability wise, from my new engine and dont want to screw it up. If somebody could just list out the steps and how much fuel and time for each and any tips about it Id really appreciate it!! Thanks for the help in advance!

thanks,
Will

[jives]

Ok I think I mentioned this in an e-mail or PM to someone.

First thing I did was get a hair dryer and heat the engine up, First time I started it, it was indoors around 70F the car was up off the ground so it didn’t run away, I tweaked the settings on my controller just to a good idle and shut if off. Then I took it outside again made sure to prop the car up so the tires did not touch started it again and let it idle the first tank out. The outside temp was only about 40F so I set it to fairly high idle to get the heat up and keep it from dieing.

After the first tank I let it cool and when over all the set screws and that looking for loose parts then I filled it back up and started it again this time I drove it around in the yard not more than ½ throttle and no more than a 1sec at a burst, basically just putting around. Did that for 3 more tanks each time longer bursts and more throttle.

I think that pretty close to what Ofna recommends, I break all my engines in similarly I’ve gotten good life from my engines figure in two years and 5 nitro cars I’ve never replaced one cause it went bad, my Hyper and AE .15 are probity due for replacement but we’re talking several gallons of fuel and hard driving later.

[willt]

So Ill set it up off the ground and let it idle high enough to get a good temp. out of it but not too warm for the first tank. Then put it on the ground and drive it in short bursts of throttle never more than 1/2 throttle and never for very long at a time for a tank then over the next two tanks slowly up the amount of throttle and time held. Then ill be good to just start "power tuning" process!
Does all that sound good. Im just makin sure i got it all down pat.

thanks,
Will

[jives]

Yeah, the reason to keep the whells off the gound is to pervent runaways, from having the idle screw and linkages roughed in and wear on the clutch casue if it's cold out to get the temp up to where the sleeve will expand which is the point of break in you normally have to run the idle some what high. Most of the time if you sit it down it won't drive away casue it's not engaged enough but it can load the engine down and make it harder to keep running.

[TXTRCR]

hey i bought an ofna ultra lx pro and i was wondering what kind of pipes are available for this thing. i would either like a pipe that makes the exhaust sound like a dirt bike which is kind of impossible i think sence the rc engines idle way higher. or a pipe thats quieter than the stock one sence i will be doing most of my running at about 9 oclock at night during the week, that is if i choose to run it during the week in addition to the weekend non stop running i do. do any of you have an lx pro this is an awsome buggy for the money. 299 rtr you cant beat it.

[TXTRCR]

here is the method of breakin that ofna recomends

1. set the car on 2x4s to get the wheels off the ground start the engine set idle and let it low idle for one full tank, move the piston to bottom dead center( move the fly wheel untill it gets easy to turn and then turn it so its about the center of the easy part) let engine cool. this is pre break in.

2. start engine agian after engine has completely cooled, agian with wheels off ground, adjust idle a little higher and let it idle untill the tank is almost empty

3 repeat step two, never letting the tank run completely out.

4. start the engine, and idle around using short bursts of throttle, never over half throttle, no more than a few seconds at a time untill the tank is almost empty, checking temp to make sure you are under 220 or there about.

5. repeat step 4 applying more throttle and for longer bursts. still keeping the temp fairly low.

6. now you repeat step 4 and start to lean out the engine turning the highspeed needle only 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn at a time, all the while keeping the temp around 220feriheit

7 finish leaning the high speed needle no fewer than 1 1/2 turns out, and adjust the low end needle to acheive good punch and top end and the temp should now be no more than 250 feriheit.
the low end needle is recomended that you adjust it flush with the brass collar mine is just 1/8th of a turn in from the factory setting thats all i needed.

[willt]

Thanks to all those who responded!:) Also, I havent had mine out yet but just looking at it I noticed the front wheels seem to make a crackly sound like stuffs clankin together when i turn the wheels, do i need to grease or oil anything or is that normal?

thanks again,
Will

[Lost Racer1]

Originally posted by willt
Thanks to all those who responded!:) Also, I havent had mine out yet but just looking at it I noticed the front wheels seem to make a crackly sound like stuffs clankin together when i turn the wheels, do i need to grease or oil anything or is that normal?

thanks again,
Will

Check the mesh on the ring and pinion gears..

[doesgo]

How?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

exactly how...........

[Marky]

I find the best way to do it is....
Remove the whole front/rear end
Remove the A-arms/suspension/upper links
You are now left with a diff casing, with shock tower still attached
Now rotate the main drive cup 360 degrees and make sure it feels smooth all the way round
If not the you will need to shim the diff...
To do this you will have to open the diff casing and take the diff out, you then have to work out what side of the diff needs to be shimmed
Place the thin shims over the outdrive and place the diff back into the casing with the shims inside the casing, there should be enough room for them.
Then close the diff case up and rotate the main drive cup 360 degrees again.....if it feels smooth then BINGO you can put it all back together again......if not then you may have to add another shim or put it on the other side of the diff case......just keep adding or takin away shims untill if feels smooth.
Hope you can understand that :)

Marky

[LouisB]

I got a Hyper 7 (ARTR) for Xmas, I've just finished putting it all together and filling the diffs with silicone oil.
How should the braking balance be set?

[crank throw wei]

Most guys like to set up the brakes with the rears locking up just before the fronts,the theory being that you can still have your fronts able to steer,while the rears,being locked up,can help point the car in a hard turn(or slide into the turn):)

[LouisB]

Thanks:)

I'm going out to carry on breaking in the engine now:D

[Ferrari_boy]

hey guys, (newb Q)

I was thinking about buying the ultra lx pro because of its great price but i came across the ultra mbx pro with the set of color tires, great bodie,etc.

I personnaly like more the chassis suspension of the ultra mbx pro and it just looks better .NOw, i cant find a place where they sell it , is it a least out and my price range is under 550$ can. with the car,the gas and hopefully the fuel nozzle,glow starter and glow plug comes with it like in the lx. So the lx fits nicely in there at 478 or 299 $us at tower

o yea, which of the 2 suspension designs makes one of those 2 cars more stable.

thx in advance

max

[LouisB]

All run in now:D the Hyper 8 port screams!

Can anyone give me a basic camber setup? I've gone for 2 degrees all round. This is for a dirt track.

Thanks:)

[doesgo]

What engine did you have before? What's it installed in? I've heard the 8-port is great, but oftentimes the people singing its praises don't compare it to anything.

Even my anemic HPI 15FE screamed compared to my electric RC10T. :)

[LouisB]

It's my first engine in my Hyper 7 (Christmas present), but comparing it to hyper, OS and Novarossi engines in other buggys it seems to be on a similar level as the Novarossis. It's more powerful than the standard Hyper engines I've seen:)

[doesgo]

Cool. When my P4 dies or when I get some spare cash, the Hyper 8-port is at the top of my low-budget list.

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by Ferrari_boy
hey guys, (newb Q)

I was thinking about buying the ultra lx pro because of its great price but i came across the ultra mbx pro with the set of color tires, great bodie,etc.

I personnaly like more the chassis suspension of the ultra mbx pro and it just looks better .NOw, i cant find a place where they sell it , is it a least out and my price range is under 550$ can. with the car,the gas and hopefully the fuel nozzle,glow starter and glow plug comes with it like in the lx. So the lx fits nicely in there at 478 or 299 $us at tower

o yea, which of the 2 suspension designs makes one of those 2 cars more stable.

thx in advance

max

I also like that new mbx r2 pro (what ever they call it).That rear brace won me over after looking at the rest of intro buggies. If i saw that before i my 9.5 i would have gotten that one, but just like you i never saw it for sale (untill a week or so ago)

Go to www.ace-hobbies.com they sell it for under your $550 pricerange , but for that kind of money you could get a hyper 7 RTR or a 9.5 RTR..

[soslo]

In case anyone has the Hyper .21, and uses o.s.plugs in it.. DON'T!
The proper plugs are: McCoy MC8 (medium), MC9 (cold),or ofna/picco #51007. This came from Chris, at Ofna.
The o.s.plugs are about 2 threads too short. They will cause the engine to be hard to tune, and overheat.
I was having tuning and heating problems w/mine.
Just thought ya'll would like to know. :-)

[beasstofa25o]

There are quite a few RTR buggys from OFNA and i want to know which is the best of the bunch. i am doing mainly bashing, but i dont see how that makes a difference. what are the differences between the different kits, which do u guys reccommend? i really need some quick replys! would any of you reccommend getting a losi xxxnt rtr over the buggys? what about the XTM xterminator?

[soslo]

Get the Dominator.

[beasstofa25o]

uhm...no? i dont like the dominator. i like the buggy look!

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by soslo
Get the Dominator.


couldn't have said it better myself, the DOM is a basher/racers dreaam truck. it Gives you the best of both worlds and at a great pirce. it comes with a great motor right off the bat and if you want a buggy just slap a set of buggy tires and rims on change the gearing a bit and you have a buggy bud.


RUN WITH THE DOM!!!

[beasstofa25o]

guys...this isnt helping. i dont like the dominator. i just didnt feel like typing a long long reason why. its a truck, i want to do casual racing and my friends are all getting either stadium trucks or buggys. so please...which OFNA buggy is the best. i was thinking either the 9.5 RTR or the Ultra MBX Pro RTR. also..is it just me or do stadium trucks seem to handle better in the air then buggys? just something i thought i knowticed.

[crank throw wei]

Beast:I can't speak to some of Ofnas' newer machines,but I have an ultra mbx r2 with a hyper 21,an it rocks! I can't see how going up the Ofna ladder from their would get you into trouble.Personally,the 9.5 mbx looks like my next machine! Go with what you know and are compfortable with.My only suggestion is to stay with the pivot ball front suspension.SOOO much adjustment,and forgiving!

[LouisB]

Here's my Hyper 7:D

[LouisB]

...and from the front.

btw, these pics were taken with a cheap little digi-cam so I'm sorry for the quality:)

[soslo]

Hey Crank?
Have you had any diff. problems? There is a recall out on them.
Beast.. Wait for the new Hyper 7 rtr. It is coming with the pillow ball suspension, AND a starter box. No more p/start nightmares. It should be out next month.
Louis.... Very nice! :-)

[LouisB]

It's now covered with mud and grass:D

I ran about 10 break-in tanks but to get good power i really had to lean it out. The weird thing is with other engines I would expect overheating at these settings the 8 port doesn't stutter, stays cool, blue smoke at WOT and has great power, I'm using 10% fuel so that could explain it:confused:

[Lost Racer1]

Go to 20% ;)

[coyote660]

ditto...

[rcnutcase13]

Originally posted by acidpee
i have an ofna ultragt lx sompletely stock, was my first gas car, i love it, so predictable.

i broke a gear in my rear diff, so i made the rear diff a posi unit, and it seems to handle better!


I've got an ofna ultra gt lx also! I love it! the engine is kind of a pain to start (I hate pulling starter cords!) but I have a starter box for a 1/8th scale buggy(ofna multibox!), otherwise the car is great. I took it in the snow today and I couldn't see it because snow was getting kicked up everywhere!!!

[crank throw wei]

Soslo: I've heard of the recall,unfortunately,Ofna hasn't been helpful at all,either by e-mail,or by phone.I have purchased hardened ones @$29 a piece !

LouisB: I agree with the others,switch to 20%

[soslo]

If it runs good on 10%, and you are happy with it, run it! The motor will last longer anyway.
That is why I got the Hyper 7 crank. No problemo there! The Hyper 7 has been goood to mee! :) :cool: I like these little dudes! hehe!!

[LouisB]

Thanks for the advice everyone:)
I've got over 1 gallon of 10% left so I'll stick with it, but if it develops problems I'll get some 20%:cool:

[willt]

I started to TRY and break in my LX Pro today but have had nothin but problems. I warmed it with a hair dryer and kept it up off the ground. It was extremely hard to start and I have blisters on both hands from pulling the pull cord and because of how hard it was to pull. I finally got it started only to have it shut off in just a couple seconds. I finally got the first take out of it and now it wont hardly start period. I dont know what to do, the glow plug is good and its gettin gas, what do I need to do? Its really hard to pull the pull start and just wont run, HHHEEELLLPPP!!!

thanks,
Will

[soslo]

Take the glow plug out, and make sure it isn't flooded. Put the glow plug back in, and leave it just barely loose, to where the motor is easier to turn over. Use short, quick strokes to start it. When it starts, tighten the glow plug up snugly.... not super tight!!
You may have to turn the idle up also, as it will be running rich until you get it broken in and tuned.

[willt]

ive tried all that stuff, it still barely will start, i dont know what else to do! please help me figure this out?

thanks,
Will

[soslo]

u sure it is getting fuel?
Try blowing through the fuel line through the carb, just to make sure the passages are clear.
If it is, put a little fuel in the carb and try again.
Putting after run oil in the top of the engine will make it easier to turn over also.

[willt]

dont get me wrong i appreciate the suggestions but ive tried everything i can think of, i took off the tail pipe and cleared out everything and done what you suggested a million times to no avail. Ive run out of ideas i dont know whats wrong, help!!!

thanks,
Will

[soslo]

try a new glow plug

[soslo]

Hope this helps! :-)

For warranty issues please contact OFNA directly. 949-586-2910
[ OFNA Nitro RC Racing's Message Board | Search | OFNA Nitro RC Racing ]
Re-post of the pointers for getting the .25 running
IP: 12.237.156.114

Posted on December 29, 2002 at 08:06:18 PM by toxic_monkey

I saw alot of .25 problem posts, so ill throw this back out there for ya to munch on. Like most of you, i had quite a time getting my .25 started for the first time. here is what did it for me.
1) the glow plug package has 2 spacers. use 1.
=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=
2)Dont use a pullstart to get it broke in. The only time you need it is to get the piston down and ready to be bump started. If you say, "but toXic, i dont have one, then go to your local hobby shop and a)buy one or b) bum one.
=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=
3)The glow plug that came in my engine looked fine, but just wouldnt keep my engine running once started, even with nicely charged glo-starter on it. Go get a new one and try that. If it doesnt help, then look on the bright side, now you have a spare for when it REALLY goes out
=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=
4)once you have it started, dont let it cool while the piston is up. Turn the flywheel or pull the pullstarter until it gets really hard, and pop it just past that point. This way the sleeve will shrink back without having a piston to make it not go back right. This is a good idea even after it is broken in.
=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=
5)If it is cold where u live right now, then the hair dryer/heat gun is probably a good idea to help get the head/case warm.
=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=
6)once it dies while trying to start, turn off your radio and open the throttle the tinyest bit and hit it on the starter box. This will help clear some of the extra fuel out. If it doesnt fire, ok, if it does, great. Then once you do this put it back to idle and try again.
=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=
7)I can not stress enough about charged glow starters. If you are using the alkaline C one, then put it deep inside your toolbox, for use only as back-up, because the C type dont get nearly as hot as the rechargeable ones in my opinion. I dunno if it is a fact, but i know a full charged glow starter will give you many more starts than an akaline C one.
=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=
8)if you are still having troubles, slowly back out(turn counter-clockwise) the low end needle, or the brassy-looking one on the end of the carb for you n00bs out there just keeping backing it out a litle tiny bit and it will fire. I thought the same thing you are probably thinking. "Ummm... if it is dying because of too much fuel, how ould that help?" I dunno, it just did. I would back it out about 1/16 every now and then, and every time the engine ran longer and better like it should during break in.
=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=
9)Keep the glow starter on it once it does start, let it idle for about 10 seconds, and take it off. If it dies, then you most likely need a new plug, OR, need to let it warm up more OR need to clear the carb by giving it a short blast of throttle. Not much, just a tap. Remember, were breaking it in, not just plain breaking it. Constant heavy throttle = bad during break in.
=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~ =~=
10)i dunno, i just needed ten.
toXic_monkey

[willt]

how the heck am i supposed to bump start it, kick it, cmon i need some help i can use!!! the glow starter and plug are good!

Will

[crank throw wei]

Willt: I can tell your frustrated,but getting short with the guys who are trying to help you will only make sure they don't help you again! Everything I have read(except the rechargable vs.alkaline,that's not true) is good advice. My only other advice is: Is the fuel fresh?
Is your mixture needle 3 1/2 to 4 COMPLETE turns out?
Is your back cover(behind the pull starter) tight? (be very careful removing the pull start,so the spring doesn't unwind!)
Does the engine "pop" if you prime the carb?


These things aren't rocket science.3 things are required for any engine to run:fuel,ignition,and compression(including crankcase compression in these little 2 stroke engines)

Take a deep breath,reread everything that has been suggested,and analyze thingsvery carefully.If you still can't figure it out,come back here with a very detailed list of what you know,such as fuel age,if it has a secondary cap,why you think your glowplug is good,carb settings,etc.Add everything you can think of,like I know my glowplug is good,because,when I put a glowdriver on it,it lit up the whole house,that kind of thing.I expect you to spend as much time typing as I did! Good luck.

[soslo]

An engine needs 3 things to run.

1) FUEL... Did yop leave it open for a while, or it it old? Put some of your fuel on the ground, and light it with a match. Does it burn?

Let us see now???... What made the fuel burn?

2) FIRE!!!. It needs an ignition source.
Does the glow plug light up, all the way up the wire, when you put the igniter on it?

Hmmmmm.. This next one is hard. What else made the fuel burn?
Can you breath now? What are you breathing?
Unless you have the engine in a vacuum, or live on Mars, I don't foresee any problemo there.
So the 3rd thing is....

3) AIR... We can count this one up as not being the problem. You don't live on Mars? Do you??

4) COMPRESSION!! (so I screwed up! hehe!!) This should be a given, especially with a new motor. Did you already fry the motor somehow? It should be tight at the top of the stroke, and have a pop to it, when you turn it by hand. Even with a small amount of compression, it should at least start up.

If you are going to stick with nitro rc, a starter box, or bumpstarter ($30.00), would be a definite plus. They spin the engine over a LOT better.
Pull starts are a loss.

The rest is up to you.

[-=ADA$=-]

ive read to try this, pull the glo heater off, ope the throttle to WOT, and give it a few pulls, than close the throttle and put glo heater on, it wight help

[rookie12]

Originally posted by ofna_Kdog
[B]Hey, just go down to home depot and buy a 4 x 20 mm screw. Don't buy hobby screws unless you have to...stores rip you off. [/B


]





is anyone on here registered besides

[trx4life]

is the ultra lx pro wit th new .25 a good buggy...i hope so cuz i just baught one..

[soslo]

trx4life...
Keep this for your records, just in case you need it.
http://www.ofna.com/recall.html

[KOLOR KRAFT]

DOES ANYBODY NO THE CORRECT WAY TO WIRE A STARTER BOX WITH THE PANEL ON THE FRONT. i am confussed please help the insructions really suck.the box is the blue one with the chrome top.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

does the yank eliminator from hg work on pull start engines? i am not sure but is that for pull starts? i seen it on the HG web site it looks nice, just put it on a cordless drill then bam!!! insta start. that is also better then carrying around a big box.:confused:

[crank throw wei]

Ummm... wouldn't yanking on a pull start be what you're eliminating? YES!!! That's what their for! They can't be used everywhere ,because you need a straight path to the crank,so I don't know of any Ofnas it would work on.

[Yogi]

I didn't think they made a Yank Eliminator for .21 engines.
I bought a starter box the day after Christmas and with in
a hour I had my buggy running and no more blister on my
fingers from pulling that **** cord. I would rather make
the extra trip to my truck for the starter box then yank on
that cord!! Don't get me wrong the Yank Eliminator would
be good to, but it goes on the shaft were the one way
bearing would go, and it's not going to fit with the pull start
facing the back of the buggy.


http://community.webshots.com/user/yogi275

:D

[Crushedreams]

I just got a gtlx and after breakin I bent the cva shaft. My Question is: Where do you find parts for these things? I have a savage a terra crusher and rc10gt and the parts are easy to find. If anyone knows the part # that would be great. Thanks
Josh

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Originally posted by Yogi
I didn't think they made a Yank Eliminator for .21 engines.
I bought a starter box the day after Christmas and with in
a hour I had my buggy running and no more blister on my
fingers from pulling that **** cord. I would rather make
the extra trip to my truck for the starter box then yank on
that cord!! Don't get me wrong the Yank Eliminator would
be good to, but it goes on the shaft were the one way
bearing would go, and it's not going to fit with the pull start
facing the back of the buggy.


http://community.webshots.com/user/yogi275

:D

damn i thought you could use one. that is good to know, i will just get a starter then when ever i am able to get a car:D

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Originally posted by Crushedreams
I just got a gtlx and after breakin I bent the cva shaft. My Question is: Where do you find parts for these things? I have a savage a terra crusher and rc10gt and the parts are easy to find. If anyone knows the part # that would be great. Thanks
Josh

buy the manual from ace, or tower, they should have one, then the manual will give you a parts listing. i know you dont want to go through the trouble of getting one but sice you have the car get it.

[Crushedreams]

I have the manuals that came with the car but they suck. The part numbers are bunk. I dont have a LHS within 3 hours so online is how it has to be. Where is the biggest parts selection for the buggies?
Josh

[-=ADA$=-]

HERE (http://www.ace-hobbies.com)

[Crushedreams]

I have had this buggy 2 days and I want to sell it. Get something with aftermarket support.
Josh

[coyote660]

i want my mommy...

[rookie12]

ok i got a question is 200 bucks a good deal for a brand new gtlx pro rtr with a .25 engine

[morfracerX]

That's a good deal, $100 off what they cost at tower and tower has the lowest price.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP with wiring ofna starter box with the pnl. in front do i need the black and red lugs on the side for anything or eliminate them...........................

[soslo]

I have the black rtr 1/10 box w/panel.
(2 motors instead of 1)
Don't know if they are wired the same, but they should be close. The plugs on the side would be for charging the battery(s), I can charge this one from 2 holes in the side, right at the battery connections, or with banana plugs through the panel.
I can open it up, and we can take a look see. It should be basically the same.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Originally posted by morfracerX
That's a good deal, $100 off what they cost at tower and tower has the lowest price.

ACTUALLY YOU CAN GET THEM CHEAPER AT OTHER LHS IN CALI

[LouisB]

Would the AE starter box work with a Hyper 7? It says it works with 1/8 off-road on the website but I read a post from someone saying that it wouldn't work wiht their Mugen:confused:

I think it's basically the same as the Thunder Tiger box but with an extra hole for the NTC3, and in a magazine review it said the Thunder Tiger box worked well with an 1/8th buggy.

Thanks, and Happy New Year (it's 2pm here, so I'm recovering at the moment):D

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by JIMMYBANGBANG
ACTUALLY YOU CAN GET THEM CHEAPER AT OTHER LHS IN CALI

do you have a link? i would like to see this.

[willt]

Well i talked to a guy and he told me what i needed to do and sure enough, my engine is purring like a little kitten, well tiger maybe! this thing is fast!!! i would like to apologize for my shortness whith anybody but i was just in "break in" depression i guess! I ve already fried my steering servo though so ill have to get a new one!! oh well this thing is awesome! i would suggest to buy it but dont get impatient with it, its worth the wait!

oh by the way im talkin about the LX Pro!!!

thanks for all the help!
Will

[oodlesonoodles5]

hey guys i might be getting my first ever nitro car. It looks like a ultra GTLX with the force .21. i got some questions tho. it is already broken in do i need to do anything to the engine? is the stock .21 a pull start or bump? if bump what is a good starter? also is there anything i need to be on the lookout for (i.e parts to go bad, weak stuff and things like that) i already have a 645 for steering, will taht work okay? and also what is a good RX pack(i can charge them on my 959) thanx for your help and im sure i will be here everyday trying to tune.

[p.n.e]

hey guys, do u think 250 for a hyper 7 roller with engine is a good deal? its a .21 hyper, seems too good to be true to me.. it doesnt have any electronics..

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by p.n.e
hey guys, do u think 250 for a hyper 7 roller with engine is a good deal? its a .21 hyper, seems too good to be true to me.. it doesnt have any electronics..



Grab it before i find out who is selling it at that price and take it for myself.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Originally posted by morfracerX
do you have a link? i would like to see this.

DO YOU LIVE CLOSE TO SANTA MARIA IN CALI? IF SO I WILL SHOW YOU PERSONALLY.:D

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by oodlesonoodles5
hey guys i might be getting my first ever nitro car. It looks like a ultra GTLX with the force .21. i got some questions tho. it is already broken in do i need to do anything to the engine? is the stock .21 a pull start or bump? if bump what is a good starter? also is there anything i need to be on the lookout for (i.e parts to go bad, weak stuff and things like that) i already have a 645 for steering, will taht work okay? and also what is a good RX pack(i can charge them on my 959) thanx for your help and im sure i will be here everyday trying to tune.



it comes with a .21 P4 ps or a .25 ps depending on if it's new or old.

strip the car down to the bones and rebuildit useing locktight on all metel to metal screws (not the motor mont screw on the bottom or the ones on the wheels) you're going to want to rebuild the diffs and make sure they work as they should.

that servo should do fine aslong as it puts out more then 90 oz of trq anyold 6v 5 cell rx poack will do you fine for bashing just wire it right.

i only had a GTLX for about a week so i really cant help you that much on it. one thing i can tell you is to get as much of the factoryt paperwork as you can with the car, that will make things alot smoother.

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by JIMMYBANGBANG
DO YOU LIVE CLOSE TO SANTA MARIA IN CALI? IF SO I WILL SHOW YOU PERSONALLY.:D


Is that anywhere near westhills?