The Forum for TB-01s, TB01 EVOs, and anyone who has a TB01 inbetween

[ShinHed]

.

[Albertt]

Thanks for being patient with me...I'm just a bit overzealous about getting a TB01...:D

I see what you are saying now...but I guess you could use the TA04 arms on a TB01 if you shimmed it on each side.

Also, about the steering:

...You can adopt the Evo bearing supported steering to the TB01 but, you would have to cut the hollow shaft so its flush with the arms and thread a screw through it to stop it from coming off.

That's what I was thinking. Also, I looked a little deeper and found the exploded view diagram for the TG-R chassis kit.

Compare the steering systems of the two:

TB01 (Subaru Impreza WRC2001) (http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58271b.pdf)

TG-R chassis kit (http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/44030b.pdf)

The TG-R uses a system like what you decribe, but uses a long machine screw from the bottom mated to a nut on top to secure the arms. This means that one would have to drill out two holes in the tub chassis...which isn't all that hard.

[ShinHed]

I never saw the TGR pdf before:D Using the TRG parts will work better in this situation. It it will have lots less slop than the stock TB01 setup, and lighter than the TG10/TB01 aluminum steering.

You are still misunderstanding the TB01/Ta04 arms though. You would have to shave some some of the Tb01 gearbox away for the Ta04 arms to fit. Who needs Ta04 arms on a Tb01 anyways?

See pic

[Albertt]

Sorry bro, I was thinking that the mounting points for the suspension arms on the TB01 were external to the arms...but they are internal...meaning the mounting boss (which is too long) is between the two suspension arm extensions.

I never saw the TGR pdf before Using the TRG parts will work better in this situation. It it will have lots less slop than the stock TB01 setup, and lighter than the TG10/TB01 aluminum steering.

If I can get my hands on the TG-R parts, then i will try it. Do you know of a good source for TG-R parts? Otherwise, I'll try and come up with a way to mount the TA04/TB Evo1 steering arms.

I've never been too fond of aluminum parts. They are heavier than plastic and because they deflect less prior to yield, you end up with bent parts instead of cracked. It usually impossible to bend the aluminum parts back to spec, and replacement cost way more than that of replacing a plastic part.

Thanks for all the help...
AL

[ShinHed]

I'd love to post a pic of my latest TB01 project (and last) to show how I intergrated parts from many different Tamiya cars but, no camera.

You can get every modern Tamiya part from my buddy Hiro in Japan. Since he's in Japan, prices are very low. Almost every hop-up on my TB's are from him. Take the part's numbers from the pdf files and e-mail him what you need.

Hiro's site
http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~hirofact/HOME.html

Hiro's e-mail
rc_order@a7.rimnet.ne.jp

[93SRV]

god damn i'm retarted..
should've gotten the long suspension set instead of those aluminun stock pieces. especially after seeing Hiro's price for it! DAMN!

[Albertt]

...should've gotten the long suspension set instead of those aluminun stock pieces...

Not necessarily true. I have this feeling that the LSA kit actually limits suspension travel. THe fact that the hinge point extend into the wheel and is now more outboard on the hub carriers/uprights might mean that there is now interference there, limiting suspension travel. I know for a fact that it is that way with my TA04's suspension. For some reason I have this suspicion because the LSA kit is basically the suspension components from the TB Evo...which seems to be more a touring car than rally car.

A friend of mine wanted to convert his RS4 Sport2 (based on the Pro2) to a rally car and in order to give it more travel, we had to remove material from the hub carriers and the arms so that there would be more clearance.

[93SRV]

yeah, i do believe the long suspension is for touring racing, i jsut need more travel. i have a few ideas, i'll keep ya posted. :D

[Albertt]

What is the limiting factor for suspension travel? Is the length of the shocks? The travel in the suspension arms? Or perhaps the length of the dogbones?

EDIT: Coincidentally, take a look at the rear shocks on the Losi Rally Weapon:
http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures/partspics/partspics/rallylr.jpg

[93SRV]

for me right now, i'd say it's just the length of the shocks.
you can get the super low friction shocks that are longer without any worries about the arms or axels but it's almost an issue after that.
nice pic! HMMMMmmm :D

[Jimmy33]

Hi
When I driver my TB01 Ford Focus WRC (full name he he ) :rolleyes: off road on grass the front of the body shell always bends in and stops the progress of the car. Is there a foam bumber I can get which will hold the body oud in the right shape?

James

[metrikrc]

I have my 01 in hand and am articulating the suspention to see what limits travel. It is the inner lower arm hitting the bottem chassis that limits travel on my car. I use the carbon chassis, with droop screws. On the tub chassis, there would probably be less interference from the chassis. The hub carriers, and knuckles dont limit any travel. It all happens right outside of the lower, inner hinge pin. Im still quite convinced that the long suspention kit is the way to go for either rally or touring. Long shock ends too... Im surprized by the number of people rallying their 01s. Are there any touring racers here? I rallyed mine like once, then immediately decided my ta01 was better for rally duty.

[ShinHed]

I just found this Tamiya rally group...

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tamiyarallye/

See if they can help:cool:

[ShinHed]

A TB Evo II did something good:confused:

LINK (http://nifty.amikai.com/AmiWeb?ami_url=http://www.tamiya.com/japan/rc/jmrca2002/index.htm&ami_src_lang=JA&ami_tar_lang=EN&ami_dis=3&ami_dict=general&ami_font_col=009933)

You try to make sense of it:confused:

[ShinHed]

:cool:

[Albertt]

When I driver my TB01 Ford Focus WRC (full name he he ) off road on grass the front of the body shell always bends in and stops the progress of the car. Is there a foam bumber I can get which will hold the body oud in the right shape?

You can either raise the body on the mounts or drive on shorter grass. Rally cars are not really built for that type of terrain.

I have my 01 in hand and am articulating the suspention to see what limits travel. It is the inner lower arm hitting the bottem chassis that limits travel on my car. I use the carbon chassis, with droop screws. On the tub chassis, there would probably be less interference from the chassis.

I had a feeling that the carbon chassis would restrict suspension travel more...because of the droop adjusting feature. When I converted my friend's RS4 Sport2 to a rally car, I had to grind off the chassis extensions for the droop feature so that the arms would drop lower.

The hub carriers, and knuckles dont limit any travel. It all happens right outside of the lower, inner hinge pin.

But here's my thoughts. On his Sport2 and on my TA04, which have the longer type arms that extend into the wheels, the hub carrier design tend to come closer to the suspension arm. It is due to the outer hinge pin being located outboard on the hub carriers. I had to grind material away from the bottom of the hub carrier and the cross support on the suspension of his car to gain more travel.

Can you take a look at your TB01 with your LSA kit to see if this hold true? If the carbon chassis wasn't in the way, would your hub carrier be?

Im still quite convinced that the long suspention kit is the way to go for either rally or touring.

I agree. Longer suspensions would actually benifit rally cars more than touring cars.

[Albertt]

What version of the TB is that? Is that a mirrored image...because the battery seems to be on the other side?

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by Albertt
What version of the TB is that? Is that a mirrored image...because the battery seems to be on the other side?

Soon to be released EVO 3.

[Albertt]

I wish they would release a TB01-R or -S that would still use the plastic tub chassis, but be equipped with the LSA hardware, full bearings, finer pitched spur and pinion, aluminum shaft, etc...basically, an EVO 2 with the tub chassis and knobby tires. :D

More body choices would be nice too...like the Seat Cordoba, Toyota Corolla, Vaxhaull Cavelier.

[93SRV]

yeah, that would be nice!

p.s. i'm gonna grind my chassis right next to the hinge pin down a bit to let me have some more clearance.... it's DEFINANTLY an issue.

and THANK YOU THANK YOU for finding that website for tamiya rallye! man, around here, i get laughed at for having the TB01 and wanting to rallye it but i think it could be a new genre of RC'ing.. 4WD rallye sedans. and although people laugh at me for aving the tB01 on track, i don't think it'd be the same in this new form of rallying. it's perfect IMO. tough, reliable, shaft, and options.

[Albertt]

i'm gonna grind my chassis right next to the hinge pin down a bit to let me have some more clearance.... it's DEFINANTLY an issue.

Sorry, I can't remember...do you have the carbon fiber plate chassis...or the plastic tub?

[93SRV]

plastic tub..
it's in the way like a tad.. like 1 mm

[metrikrc]

The ebay source who was selling evoIIs for 248.00 for a while isnt listing them anymore. Does anybody know where to get one for around that price? Im ready to replace my evo like right now.

[ShinHed]

I just purchased an Evo 2 for $230 shipped from the Rc/Tech boards so, you can always try the boards; but beware from who you buy.

I'm currently awaiting for some titanium screws to arrive from my supplier (http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~hirofact/HOME.html) so that I can complete my kit. I can already tell the Evo 2's drivetrain is not as free as the TB01's so, all the more reason to wait for the Evo 3.

I've asked that eBay seller 2 times already if he would post more Evo 2's anytime soon, but he never replies.:mad:

[wyd]

ShinHead if the drivetrain in your EVO2 is not as free as you TB01 you probably need the bearings cleaned out some as both drivetrains are the same. I have both cars and that was never a problem.

[fabolousRC]

wyd..the TB EVo gearboxes are made tight compared to the TB01. I believe Shinhed have had a lot of experience with a "free" gearboxes so you can tell how sensitive he is to a "tight" gearbox. Now Tamiya decided that the racers like us were right. In addition, Tamiya's decision to switch to TA04 arms is to promote their usual interchangeable parts chemistry that they always have plus the advantage of already available TA04 lightweight and strong aftermarket parts. *phew* Shinhed...I heard they re-design the planetary gear too.

[wyd]

Hey your right I forgot the case setup is differnt but the diffs are the same. My EVO2 had better acceleration than my TB01 did. Never did figure that one out as my TB01 seemed flat but that might have been the extra weight.

I wonder if the EVO3 will have more of a stadard diff without those lose outdrives they use on the stadard EVO2. That was one of the things I hated the most about that car. I would also like a chassis for my TB01 more like that molded T04R one with the battery slots cut into it. I like to run my plastic tub TB01 in GT2 but it is hard to gear it easily. I milled out eh back of the chassis just to make pinion gear changes easier. I made no modifications to lighten the car.

[metrikrc]

I can confirm that evo tgr gearboxes are indeed tighter than tb01 gearboxes. I have been racing in the stock class, and the 01 is noticeably quicker and faster than my evo with a stock motor. A mod motor tends to overcome the difference. I couldnt figure it out for a while. I thought mabey my gearboxes were slightly out of alignment, but through much experimentation, and comparison,, it is true,, 01 gearboxes roll longer and easier than tgr gearboxes given identical innards. I am having my super souped up o1 on consignment at a local hobby shop, and so will be running the evo today in stock. Hopefully, it will not be a limiting factor. The evo is such a sweet handler, I think it will be o/k. Currently there are 2 nib evos on the bay starting at 175.00! I will probably wait for the evoIII, unless evoIIs go on sale for much less.

[93SRV]

do u guys suggest ball diffs for the TB01? i'm racing in the dirt so the gear diffs are quite rugged for this, but i know the ball diffs are more adjustable.

[metrikrc]

The ball diffs are pretty well sealed against grit, so should hold up well in the dirt. Be sure to use rubber sealed outdrive bearings, and drive shaft bearings. I have tried to use heavy grease inside the gear diffs to make them stiffer, but it just leaks out and they loosen up quickly. expect to rebuild ball diffs more often if running in dirt. They are well protected, but grit will find em,, it always does.

[93SRV]

yeah, right now i'm just packin in the grease with my gear diffs but it gets really damn grimey real quick. might have to make the switch soon.

[Albertt]

Is there a way to seal the gear diffs better so that the grease won't leak out? I will take a look as soon as my TB01 comes in...

I ordered it from my LHS Saturday (I decided to go with the Ford Focus body)...should be in on Thursday. I also ordered the aluminum motor mount and the TG10 aluminum steering.

[Albertt]

I haven't got my kit (yet) but noticed that the universal axles use a spline mating between the hex hub and axle instead of the usual cross pin (that always falls out) and slotted hex hubs. Is there a particular reason why Tamiya went with this configuration? Are the universals that important of a mod?

Thanks
AL

[93SRV]

my clutch on my 1:1 car is starting to get really bad. looks like i won't be getting many hopups for the TB in the next little bit. hehe. time for a dual friction stage 3 clutch baby!


albertt, i'm not quite sure why tamiya went that way with that model- i'm going to assume it probablly has to do with lost torque.

[Albertt]

I'm thinking that a Futaba 9303 or some other metal geared, ball bearing, high-torque servo might be needed. Opinions?

Thanks
AL

[metrikrc]

Any standard servo is enough for an evo or 01. Unless you are accustomed to or just want faster steering response it isnt needed. I have been racing all summer long with cheap old standard servos. Just recently I have fealt a need for faster and more powerful steering servos.

[Albertt]

...I was worried about durability.

I guess the reason why I brought this up was that two of my friends (RS4 Sport2 and FF01) have stripped teeth on the servo gears before while running in dirt. Since I plan on doing so with my TB01 (which should be here by Saturday), I was worried about this problem as well.

Another question:
Are the TL01 hubcarriers and steering hubs up in the front suspension the same as the TB01. From the pictures I've seen, they do seem to the same.

Thanks
AL

[ShinHed]

No.


http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/rcitem.htm

[Albertt]

Ok...I guess I should have checked there first...:D

I'm thinking about buying these...
http://users.sisna.com/hcamper/1/mtc/mtc22167.jpg
and fitting them to the TB01. They can support ball bearings, elimnating suspension slop. I've been comparing them to the TB01...
http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58271imp_2001proto/impreza7.jpg
Am I just being silly or could these be made to fit?

[ShinHed]

Adding TL01 parts to a TB01 would be a downgrade. Keep in mind that even Tamiya's 414 cars don't have bearings in the front hubs and their the best of the best.

The best way to eliminate slop on a TB01 is to get the long suspension arm kit.

Next, you can replace the LSA front hub carriers with the Ta04's racing hubs and the apply torque rods but, first things first.

:)

[Albertt]

Keep in mind that even Tamiya's 414 cars don't have bearings in the front hubs and their the best of the best.

Yeah, I know. My TA04, doesn't have much slop because the tolerance between the OD of the kingpin shank and the holes on the hub carrier are very tight.

Adding TL01 parts to a TB01 would be a downgrade

Really? The suspension parts between the TB01 and TL01 look so similar, both in design and the way they are put together. They both have the "shiny" plastic look (unlike the 414 and TA04 - AND the LSA kits parts), both have two piece suspension arms that are bolted together, both have long shank screws instead of regular hinge pins and both use those large rounded philips headed kingpins. But I did notice that the TL01 hub carriers don't have any kingpin inclination, while the TB01 seems to have quite a bit.

The best way to eliminate slop on a TB01 is to get the long suspension arm kit.

Does this LSA kit take away suspension travel? I notice that all the poeple who get his kit run their TB01's on-road, as a touring car...not as a rally car. Are the LSA components as durable as the stock TB01 suspension parts?

Next, you can replace the LSA front hub carriers with the Ta04's racing hubs and the apply torque rods but, first things first.

Yeah, I thought about that too...I was going to get the racing hubs for my TA04.

Thanks for the help...
AL

[metrikrc]

The long suspention kit will deffinately not hurt ground clearance. Nothing in the hubs interferes when the suspention is dropped far. If anything limits ground clearance its interference from the chassis on the arms. The long arms are very beefy ad I doubt if they could be broken by the car itself. I have hit pvc pipe joints head on at full speed with only 1 wheel making contact and absorbing the full impact. Nothing broke. The stock lsa kit along with stock steering does still leave alot of slop,, and this may be partly responsible for the durability. I keep returning to my hopped tb01 for racing. Even though its less precision, it has been a far better stock class race car for me. Are those tg10 gearboxes in the tbevoIII? If so,, I am really looking forward to racing that car.

[93SRV]

i have my new aluminum motor mount installed and i'm having a problem getting the top part to screw back down..
seems like the motor mount is thinker or puts the gear like a MM too close to it cause the plastic won't go inbetween the two. anyone have this problem?

oh, and i have all my GPM aluminum parts on now and the steering up front is SO much better. not as good as long suspension but a lot better than stock.

[Albertt]

But maybe instead of retrofitting the Megatech TL01 hub carriers to the TB01 arms, perhaps I could drill out the king pin holes from the 5mm (actually slightly larger to allow clearance for the 5mm kingpins) to 8mm. Of course I would have to be very careful to maintain the correct centers, but if done, I would be able to fit 5X8mm bearings in the hub carriers. Since the kit will be in my hands tonight, I'll take a look and see if this is feasible and whether there is enough material around the hole so that I don't weaken the parts too much.

93SRV: When my TB01 gets here, I'll take a look at what you're talking about, since I've ordered the aluminum motor mount as well.

Metrikrc: I'm still considering the LSA kit...since I just purchased the kit, my RC slush fund is a bit dry. When it gets replenished, I'll start up with more mods.

[soulstice]

Anyone know where to get Kai aftermarket parts?

[93SRV]

the motor mount finally went on right..

took a little "lovin" but i got it on and fits very nicely
now.. i'm gonna borrow a digital camera towards
this weekend and grab some pics of my dirt machine
to post up here.

anyone else have any pics?

[Albertt]

Forget my ramblings about the hubcarriers. The holes on the hubcarriers for the TB01 are 5mm, and cannot be enlarged due to a lack of material around them. I'll live with the stock kingpins until I possible get the LSA kit...then I'll add the TA04 racing hub set.

I opened the box up Saturday and was a bit surprised. Is it me, or are there a lot of parts...compared to other Tamiya kits (I've built about a dozen of them in my past)?

A few opening questions before I dive in:

1. Should I use the plastic diff ring gears and bevel shaft pinion gears? Or should I live with the weight in return for durability?

2. For those running their cars in dirt/rally style conditions (93SRV, I know you're one of them), did you guys build the cars with those pre-cut foam pieces?

3. What spur/pinion ratio should I use with a 19 turn triple?

4. Any recommendations for a brand and type of grease for the gear diffs? I have some Ofna 50,000 weight silicone oil lying around.

Thanks
AL

[93SRV]

yeah, there are quite a few parts in this kit but i found at the end there were quite a few extra parts (i hope, he he he). pretty fun to build.. straighforward and good parts.

i definantly reccomend the foam pieces, they fit perfectly in the steering and up front on the driveshaft. i put those on, plus i superglued a thin layer of more foam on the inside of the inner body cover. this together prevents a ton of dirt getting in but still some dust gets in.. nothing big.

if you get the lightweight gears, they can hold up pretty damn well. that's my next buy.. the metal ones are definantly more durable but hardly worth the extra weight. good to have around for the super tough beater days. :)

i use team associated diff grease.. it works very well and can stiffen up the diffs fairly well. i'm not too knowledable with the gearing yet so i'll leave that to someone else (as per my previous post).

have fun with building! i know i did!

[Aluma]

as i recall, and its what i use for stock motor on my evo2, 55spur with 22 pinion. go up or down from there....but just from my experience, 23 pinion got the motor too hot.

[Albertt]

I was surfing around on Tamiya's online parts catalog...

1. TB01 Aluminum Propeller Shaft - 50886
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/img/50886.jpeg
From the picture, it looks as though it comes with the two bevelled pinions that mate to the diff ring gears. It also appears that the ends of the shaft are not splined like the stock steel shaft...they look like they have flats. Would I have to use the plastic lightweight gears from this kit:
ITEM 53401 TB01 Lightweight Ring Gear sethttp://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/img/53401.jpeg (I also note that the picture shows two sets of ring gears - a pair for those who use gear diffs - another pair for those using ball diffs)
Does anyone have experience with the aluminum shaft, or have you all swapped in the carbon shaft, 53402 (as listed in the TB01 instruction manual HopUp Option Parts sheet)?

2. I'm sure most of you guys read my little tirade up above about ball bearing raced hubcarriers. While I realized that using TL01 hubcarriers and the modifying of the stock TB01 hubcarriers would not work, I found these on the parts catalog:
ITEM 53378 (OP378) TG10 Alu. Front Hub Carrier
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/img/53378.jpeg
From the pic, it looks as though there are bushings or bearings included. Could this be the upgrade I had been discussing? Does anyone have these TG10 hubcarriers? Am I seeing the picture correctly?

Thanks
AL

[ShinHed]

1. Yes.
2. The aluminum shaft is cheaper than the carbon one and lasts.
3. I have aluminum hub carriers (my pic is somwhere in this thread) and they come with bushing. You can replace them with 850 (5x8mm) bearings.

[Albertt]

Sorry about all the questions...I get this way when I am excited about a new kit... :D

The aluminum shaft is cheaper than the carbon one and lasts.

So, since the aluminum shaft has the flat ends, I'll need to use the two bevel gears supplied with it. Is that the right part number for the plastic ring gears? The Raybrig NSX TB01...I was under the impression that it had an aluminum shaft...but in the exploded view, it appears to have splined ends.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58262e.pdf

I have aluminum hub carriers (my pic is somwhere in this thread) and they come with bushing. You can replace them with 850 (5x8mm) bearings.

Do they have the same kingpin inclination?

Thanks for the help...
AL

[ShinHed]

What TB01 kit did you get? I have a Raybrig Nsx and it came with the shaft with flat ends. Do you have all your bearings yet? Where do you order parts from? Here...

http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~hirofact/TB01.html

You might wanna buy the aluminum king pins (53157). Not that the steel ones won't work but, because the black steel kingpins are ugly, heavy, and for some reason kept falling out.

Also keep in mind that your bearings, king pins, and hubcarriers will not fit when you get the LSA kit. Your bearings will still fit only if you use 50867 TA04 C Parts (Front Upright) and 50908 TGR F Parts (Rear Upright).

If you do that, then your LSA universals/wheel axles will fit too loose and you'll have to use Ta04/Evo 2 universals with a 39mm swing shafts

:eek:

[93SRV]

yikes,

i think he got the rally style TB01.. which comes with full ball bearings and the shaft is splined on either end.

[Albertt]

What TB01 kit did you get? I have a Raybrig Nsx and it came with the shaft with flat ends.
93SRV is right. I purchased the Ford Focus WRC2001...which comes with full bearings and has a steel shaft with splined ends.

Where do you order parts from?
My LHS...they match any price I show them...plus, I've been going there for 10 years now.

You might wanna buy the aluminum king pins (53157). Not that the steel ones won't work but, because the black steel kingpins are ugly, heavy, and for some reason kept falling out.
You read my mind...I was going to order those.:D

Also keep in mind that your bearings, king pins, and hubcarriers will not fit when you get the LSA kit. Your bearings will still fit only if you use 50867 TA04 C Parts (Front Upright) and 50908 TGR F Parts (Rear Upright). If you do that, then your LSA universals/wheel axles will fit too loose and you'll have to use Ta04/Evo 2 universals with a 39mm swing shafts
I'm holding off on the LSA kit and not going to worry about all that only because I don't plan to race much on a on-road track...and the only rally racing I do will be with my neighbors and GF so the competition won't be that rigorous. I'm more of a basher theseadays...competitive racing just costs to much and I'm saving up for a home and all that.

Another question:
I realize that I can only use the Tamiya TB01 spur gears and the kit comes with the 55, 58 and 61 teeth gears. Are these the 0.6 or 0.4 type? The kit only comes with a 16 tooth, and I feel that I might want to go to an 18 or 19 tooth. Which pinions can I use from here? --> http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/mini161.htm

[ShinHed]

The TB01 comes stock with 0.6 types. Just recently Tamiya released 49236 0.6 Hard Spur Gear 55T.

These will suit your application

50355 SP355 18T,19T AV Pinion Gear

You can also change the spur to the Evo's 0.4 spur gear and open yourself to several 0.4 pinions.

[Albertt]

The TB01 comes stock with 0.6 types.

They look almost 48 standard pitch. I guess the 0.4 are almost 64 pitch as well.

50355 SP355 18T,19T AV Pinion Gear
So, the term "AV" has the same relation as 0.6?

Thanks again
AL

[ShinHed]

Albertt: Yep.


A few pic of my latest TB

[ShinHed]

:)

[ShinHed]

.

[ShinHed]

You too can foolishly replicate my car with these parts...
53408 TB-01 CARBON FRAME SET
50800 TG10/TB-01 Gear Case X2
50860 TB-01 G-Parts (Gear)
50886 TB-01 Aluminum Propeller Shaft
53284 5mm Aluminum Ball Connector (10 pcs.)
53308 Aluminum Servo Stay
53354 TG10/TB01 Stabilizer Set
53360 TG10 Ball Diff Set
53365 TG10 Aluminium Stearing Set
53366 TG10 Aluminium Gear Box Mount
53388 Turnbuckle Tie-Rod Set
53392 Turnbuckle Upper Arm Set
53401 TB-01 LIGHTWEIGHT GEAR
53403 TB-01 Aluminium Motor Mount
53512 TB Evolution II Hard Suspension Arm
53507 TB01 Reinforced Front One-Way Unit
49142 Lightweight Aluminum Wheel hub (Thick)
49244 5mm Aluminum Ball Nuts
49198 TRF Damper Set(Blue)(Everything but blue shock bodies used)
49240 Matched Spring Set
50867 TA04 C Parts (Front Upright)
50882 TA04 King Pin Set
53458 TA04 RACING HUB CARRIER SET
53448 Hard Lock-Nut & Spacer Set
53488 ADJUSTABLE BALL CONNECTORS
53499 Wheel Axles for Assembly Universal Shaft X2
53500 Cross Joints for Assembly Universal Shaft X2
53506 39mm Lightweight Swing Shafts for Assembly X2
53526 3x23mm Titanium Turnbuckle Shaft X2
53528 3x35mm Titanium Turnbuckle Shaft
53534 3x 8mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs.) x4
53529 3x 8mm Titanium Round Head Soket Screw (5 pcs.)
53530 3x10mm Titanium Round Head Soket Screw (5 pcs.) x6
53535 3x10mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw (5 pcs) x5
53536 3x12mm Titanium Countersunk Hex Head Screw
50908 TGR F Parts (Rear Upright)
92509 Kyosho Titanium Turnbuckle 20mm (2 pcs.)
92414 Kyosho Titanium Turnbuckle 42mm (2 pcs.)
P2104 Penguin P2100 Steering Spacer Tie Set
GTB1028 GPM GRAPHITE SHOCK TOWER TAMIYA TG10
Dynamite Red Teflon Bearings (10 5xll, 1 6x12, 4 5x8)

[Albertt]

It's a sickness with you. An addiction. Seek help. :D

Thanks for the parts list. Now I have something to aspire too.

I think you left out the 53378 - TG10 Aluminum hubcarriers that you told me about...

Also, it appears that in the last photo, all three cars have carbon fiber driveshafts, but you don't mention that in your list. I think the part number is 53402 - TB01 Carbon Propeller Shaft.

[ShinHed]

It is a sickness and that's why I didn't include the prices too, or else I'd really feel sick:D

I was just compiling the parts used on the middle car in the last pic.

None of them have carbon propeller shafts, I guess the pics are kinda dark.:confused:

I also left out ..

2nd 53366 TG10 Aluminium Gear Box Mount
50894 Medium-Narrow 5-Spoke Wheels (2 pieces) x2
9805794 Tamiya Shock bodies (Silver 2pcs) x2........
.................
...Don't cry for me, I'm already cryinghttp://www.plauder-smilies.de/crying2.gif

[Albertt]

It is a sickness and that's why I didn't include the prices too, or else I'd really feel sick

I can't even imagine spending that much. You replaced all the steel screws with titanium? Could you give me an estimate of how much those cost?

None of them have carbon propeller shafts, I guess the pics are kinda dark.

I also left out ..

2nd 53366 TG10 Aluminium Gear Box Mount


What is your opinion of the carbon propeller shaft. Does it cost more than the aluminum version? Does it have the same falt ends, or the splined ends like my steel piece. I was toying with the parts last night and realized just how heavy the steel shaft is.

What advantage (performance wise) do the 53366 aluminum gearbox mounts have over the plastic ones? In other words, are they merely there for looks, or do they actually help the structure?

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by Albertt
I can't even imagine spending that much. You replaced all the steel screws with titanium? Could you give me an estimate of how much those cost?

I spent around 50-60 on screws. I saw it as a bargin, considering I was getting them cheaper than anywhere in the USA (Tamiya brand atleast).


What is your opinion of the carbon propeller shaft. Does it cost more than the aluminum version? Does it have the same falt ends, or the splined ends like my steel piece. I was toying with the parts last night and realized just how heavy the steel shaft is.

What advantage (performance wise) do the 53366 aluminum gearbox mounts have over the plastic ones? In other words, are they merely there for looks, or do they actually help the structure?

I spent around 50-60 on screws. Even the screws for the body posts are titanium. The only ones that aren't are the one on the hard suspension arms (I kept stripping the screws trying to thread them into it). I saw it as a bargin, considering I was getting them cheaper than anywhere in the USA (Tamiya brand atleast).

Avoid the carbon shaft at all costs. Everyone who's ever used them (even with stock silver can motors) has had them break and get stripped, unlike the ones for the TL01. The alloy shaft is closer in weight to the carbon shaft than steel shaft.

My philosophy for getting the alloy gearbox mounts was that the TB01 doesn't have an alloy center post like the Evolution cars so why not try to stiffen the chassis in a different way. Does it work, hell if I know but, it does look good
:D

I'd like to thank Hiro's RC (http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~hirofact/HOME.html) for all the Tamiya parts, this message boards, M 5 for the rear carbon damper stays, eBay for the bearings, Tower for the Kyosho turnbuckles and Penguin RC for the carbon steering link and shims.

I'd love to do it again next year. You've all been great. Goodnight.:rolleyes:

[93SRV]

You might wanna buy the aluminum king pins (53157). Not that the steel ones won't work but, because the black steel kingpins are ugly, heavy, and for some reason kept falling out.


well i'll be damned..

i was out thrashing around tonight and i noticed a extreme lack of steering and looked under and one of the kingpins had came right out! or at least i think that's the kingpin? (short screw up front holding the hub carrier to hub on top and bottom?)

i guess i should order these up.

are the titanium ones the exact same size as the stock ones? or do i need something special?

also, are the tamiya ones extremely different than say the HPI ones? i'm asking cause i need something to hold me over while ordering these and my LHS doesn't carry any Tamiya stuff.. just associated, HPI, and Losi..

[93SRV]

oh yeah, also, the little white bushing came out with it
too.. (it's an aluminum hub carrier).. what size bearings
fit these? 5x8mm ?
might as well do those two if i'm replacing all of this. :D

[ShinHed]

I didn't know that the alloy hub carriers came with white bushings, unless you aren't using Tamiya brand (Tamiya ones came with bronze bushings). More than likely they use 850 (5x8mm) size bearings.

I'm not an HPI guy so I couldn't tell you if it's compatible but,53157 OP157 Aluminum King Pins should do ya'.

P.S
Unless your trying to be the "#1 Local Hobby Shop supporter", never order Tamiya parts through them. You can probably get the parts faster and cheaper on your own.

[fatpat]

ShinHed, those TB's are swwwwwweeeeeeet!!

Do you have a TG10 too?

[Albertt]

...also, are the tamiya ones extremely different than say the HPI ones? i'm asking cause i need something to hold me over while ordering these and my LHS doesn't carry any Tamiya stuff.. just associated, HPI, and Losi..

I took a look at the parts list and exploded views for the Yokomo, HPI and Kyosho cars...they are a different size. Tamiya TB01 kingpins (same ones on most of the lower end kits) have an 5mm DIA and 5mm long shank, with 4mm threads...they are large compared to what other companies use...sorry. Maybe you can help you rig something up with a 4mm screw and a bushing from a hardware store for now.

I didn't know that the alloy hub carriers came with white bushings, unless you aren't using Tamiya brand (Tamiya ones came with bronze bushings). More than likely they use 850 (5x8mm) size bearings.

Do you have the hub carriers by GPM?

[93SRV]

yeah, the hub carriers are GPM.

does this make a difference? the stock kingpins fit in, just for some reason one fell out so i think they'll fit but i guess i'll just measure up the other bushing for bearing size.

and thanks for looking up that info!!
saves me a trip! :)

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by fatpat
ShinHed, those TB's are swwwwwweeeeeeet!!

Do you have a TG10 too?

Thanks for the complement.

I had a TG10 (that's why a joined TAMIYA NITRO (http://www.****************/) but, I'm now using those parts and other leftovers for a TB01 tub chassis so I can bash.

Edit:

Check out TamiyaNitro by clicking fatpat's http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/images/home.gif.
:cool:

[SteelCityWheels]

I've got a Focus RS WRC 01 used for bashing. Looking for some hop-ups to get a little better performance... can't let my buddies out corner/accelerate :D

I can go thru Tower and get a few things, but I've got some questions about that too.

If I get the ball-diff set up, do I need to get two (Front/rear)?

What is a one way diff?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXGH56

Anything else out there that I can add... without breaking the bank?


by the way: ShinHed, Thanks for the Hiro's R/Cs link. Dropped them an email about some parts I need to restore my Grasshopper.


Thanks,
Andy

[Albertt]

If I get the ball-diff set up, do I need to get two (Front/rear)?

You don't have to. I've seen some driver's who prefer the ball diff in the back, others in the front. I've always upgraded to ball diffs both front and back.

What is a one way diff?

It contains a one-way bearing, allowing it rotate on in one direction. When set up properly, the front wheels (usually where one-way systems are placed) are allowed to "free wheel", once the torque is not exerted on the axle. This means that when you let off the throttle or brake, the fron wheels continue to rotate. To some drivers, this is useful for "pulling" their cars around corners. Back when I raced off-road with my Lazer ZX-R, I locked up the one system. I prefered to have the extra braking instead.

[Albertt]

...that the drive shaft does not have universals or dogbone joints at each end...the way the TC3 and Academy ST4 does?

Also, what steering servos are you guys using out there? Would the Futaba S9303 be overkill?

[93SRV]

thay bothers me like CRAZY! what a pain in the butt, eh?
gott have it all balanced and stuff just to replace the gear,
and that bearing in the motor mount isn't a picnic either.. haha.


man, i have to tell you about my crash today.

so me and my friend are racing off road on fine gravel and dirt on a walking path near my house.. this path is also right next to a parking lot for tarmac use as well. so, i come FLYING down the path and hit a rock, and i hear CCRRRUNNCCCH (later to find out a small piece of solder had come loose and gotten between the gear destroying both of them) and my car goes flying off the path hitting the cement and doing about 9 or 10 summersaults before coming to a rest..

not only did i destroy the gears but i broke a rim in half, snapped the antenna and snapped two body posts. i wish i had a camera for that one!

[Albertt]

...thay bothers me like CRAZY! what a pain in the butt, eh? gott have it all balanced and stuff just to replace the gear...
I figure Tamiya has a lot of confidence in the dimensional tolerances that make sure the three bearings are centered.

so me and my friend are racing off road on fine gravel and dirt on a walking path near my house.. this path is also right next to a parking lot for tarmac use as well. so, i come FLYING down the path and hit a rock, and i hear CCRRRUNNCCCH (later to find out a small piece of solder had come loose and gotten between the gear destroying both of them) and my car goes flying off the path hitting the cement and doing about 9 or 10 summersaults before coming to a rest.. not only did i destroy the gears but i broke a rim in half, snapped the antenna and snapped two body posts. i wish i had a camera for that one!
You broke a rim? Was this a Tamiya rim? Sounds like a heckuva crash. Are you sure it was solder that damaged the gears and not a pebble from the gravel surface?

[93SRV]

could have definantly been a pebble but i can't figure out how it got in there.. i've been bullet proofing that thing for a while.. even dust barely gets in there.. and yeah, it was a tamiya rim.. totally crushed.. ouch.. might be savable.. maybe not. :)

[Jimmy33]

HELP

just destoryed the standard spur gear and have fitted the larger of the other 2 spare spur gear na dI cannot get the pinion to mesh witrh the spur. It is a TB01 rally, do I need to change the pinion :confused: or am I missing something :rolleyes: ? thanks for the help

[93SRV]

you have to be able to adjust the position of your motor to make them mesh together.. i have the aluminum motor mount upgrade which makes this very easy but i'm not so sure about the stock one.

[SteelCityWheels]

Originally posted by Jimmy33
HELP

Page ten in my manual (Focus RS WRC) gives you the possible gear ratios. Tells you how to possition the motor for different pinions and spurs.


Andy

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by Jimmy33
HELP

just destoryed the standard spur gear and have fitted the larger of the other 2 spare spur gear na dI cannot get the pinion to mesh witrh the spur. It is a TB01 rally, do I need to change the pinion :confused: or am I missing something :rolleyes: ? thanks for the help

If you destroyed the 61 Teeth Spur gear the next one would 58 Teeth and you need to get at least 19teeth pinion on it cuz the stock pinion (if you have the stock plastic motor mount) won't work with the way they setup the motor mount.

like 93srv said, you want to get the aluminum motor mount. It's abit of a hassle to change the pinion when you're still using the stock chassis but you get more efficient powertrain and better motor cooling in return. The stock motor mount was designed on practicality on efficiency point of view.

What I would do if I was on a budget is ask your LHS to order you a set of new spurgears which comes with the 61 Teeth spur or if you're in a hurry, buy 18 and 19 teeth set of pinion gear (about $4-6 bucks a pair). Another way to save you right now is that if you own a TL01 or any of your friends who has one and does not use his stock pinion anymore cuz they just can give it to you for free.

The thing with 19T pinion and 58T spur combination is that unless you have a mod motor, the gear ratio is too much for your silver can. You're not getting a whole lot of acceleration and not even close to the top speed of your 16/61 combination either. if you do get it, it'll take you the whole neighborhood street to get it and by that time, your car is going to be out of control/range anyway :D

Pick and choose what you want to do and just call my secretary if you need another appointment for your car :D

*j/k*

[ShinHed]

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/show0210/photo/nm_rc3.jpg

[93SRV]

:eek:

[Jimmy33]

I have a 21turn stock in it, should I put the 17turn mod in it?

And yes I do have a TL01

[Albertt]

I wonder why Tamiya switched sides for the motor and battery...I thought the old configuration was better...

[Aluma]

depends on which track you run on...if it has more turns to the left, then this evo3 is better for handling with the battery inside.

If it has more turns to the right, then the evo2 would be better cuz it has the battery to the inside.

Unfortunately, my track runs counterclockwise and that leaves more left turns....but my evo has battery on the outside...so it tends to swing out cuz of the battery's weight.

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by Albertt
I wonder why Tamiya switched sides for the motor and battery...I thought the old configuration was better...

I've read somewhere on a Tamiya site that it to help combat torque steer.

http://www.teamjoybox.com/hs2002_index.html

Gotta get one:eek:
http://www.teamjoybox.com/hs02008.jpg

http://www.teamjoybox.com/hs02014.jpg

[nici]

Hi!
last week i got the TB-01 rally.haven´t really driven the car much yet as i am changing the esc/motor at the moment, stock is pretty boring :D so these are the probles i encountered and hoping you guys can answer them.

#1 i was thinking of putting the esc(LRP F1 reverse) on the receiver in front of the motor but the esc manual says it must be atleast 3cm away from the receiver and powercables, so the only place i can think of is the thing that is ontop of the propeller shaft, and if i put there the heatsink will hit the shell and i cant make too large holes in tthe shell because as im running the car in wet/snow untill spring. how about making a hole large as the heatsink and the making somekind of metal"grille" cover ontop. the stuff with loads of holes in it ;) would that work?

#2 assuming i run the 17x2 , stoc gearing and 1600mAh packs about how long can i run it? 5 minutes? 10?

#3 tomorrow i will put in a 17x2 , so is that as long as the tamiya stock one or do i have to cut the plastic behind the motor?

#4 is the original 16?/61 gearing ok for the 17x2?

thanks in advance!!

[Albertt]

That's interesting...kind of throws off a lot of the common thinking. From what I've heard, the Academy ST4 and TB Evo1 and Evo2 were supposed to be configured properly. It was Associated's TC3 that was incorrect. But now, Tamiya has gone this way as well.

About your pictures...in the last one, to the right of the ball differential, there appears to be a carbon fiber disk. It looks like the disc that mounts to the other side of the spur on my TA04. The disk came with the aluminum spur gear adapter set. The reason I bring this up is, does Tamiya now have an adapter (for standard industry type spur gears) for the TB series of cars?

[ShinHed]

Yep.

I'm not sure if it'll work on the current TB cars though:confused:

http://www.teamjoybox.com/hs02013.jpg
http://www.teamjoybox.com/hs02045.jpg

[nici]

i got my car running now :) tb-01 rally car with lancer evo VII body painted green/black, hitec rangerII N 40mhz am radio, lrp v-spec2 17x4 motor and lrp F1 reverse esc :) pretty fun to drive on gravel and snow and for now i like it alot! not planning on racing it on-road but i will run rally next summer :) mostly on tarmac/gravel/snow and ice until spring though. snow rules! :cool: and pretty good runtimes too, surprisingly good :eek: id say about ten minutes with 1600 mAh packs, probably cause the timing is not that much right now, increasing it when i lears to control the car as it is, by the next weekend or so :D

[93SRV]

nice man, did you do anything for runing in snow?

[Albertt]

I'm interested in this spur gear adapter for my car. It appears to have the same side bore (6mm) for the drive shaft, and the 2mm slot for the anti-rotation pin. The only question is if it is too long for the fit between the two bearings (one in the motor mount - other in the rear gearbox). If it is too short, it can easily be shimmed. Do you have a part number?

[nici]

the tb-01 doesnt need any modifying to run in wet or on snow if it has the polycarbonate cover :) all the electronics keep dry, just the wheels and stuff get wet, but as long as your electronics are dry driving in snow is like cleaning your car :) last winter my baja beetle was like new after the winter but when i ran it on dusty asphalt and gravel the parts start wearing and the fumes began to stick on the car :( when i ran my ff01 last winter i made a cover for the car of some clear thin plactic and fastened it with silver-tape :) it worked fine and still would if i put the electrics back ;)

[Albertt]

...the tb-01 doesnt need any modifying to run in wet or on snow if it has the polycarbonate cover all the electronics keep dry, just the wheels and stuff get wet, but as long as your electronics are dry...

I would go the little extra step and make sure the receiver and ESC are kept dry. THe ESC is touch and go, because it does get warm, so ballooning it might cause it get very warm. The option here (what I would recommend) would be to use a mechanical SC with plenty of di-electric grease on the contacts and exposed resistor connections. THe receiver on the other hand is simple. Place it in a balloon, and fill the mouth of the balloon with grease, accompanied by a zip-tie. Servos can be sealed better with caulk or RTV silicone, unless you have a higher end unit with water-resistant seals.

[Aluma]

hey i just noticed that the evo 3's diffs are ONE PIECE!! cool...no more drive cups falling out! or having to glue'em in place. boy i want one now!

[nici]

i ran the thing on wery wet asphalt and not one drop of water anywhere under the cover. (the one with the driver figures attached to it, i didnt put them on though) the thing is sealed! foam here and there and the cover is tight. dont run it thru puddles or anything that will soak it but snow, water and debris will stay out of there. :) and anyway i really dont think the tamiya msc can handle a 17x4 modified, it copuld melt the body or something :D and its wery hard to powerslide and stuff with it in the snow.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58257lancer/lancer3.jpg

[metrikrc]

It looks like Tamiya have made great efforts to lighten up the evoIII drive train. This is a great thing sinse the original evo diffs are super heavy, over complicated. I seriously need to find a good source for an evoII for the meantime while I wait for the III to be realeased. Check the for sale forum for my old evo and 01.

[Albertt]

I've been experimenting with different greases for packing in the TB01 gear diffs. I've tried Trinity Purple Stuff, Ofna 50000wt. silcone oil, Associated ball diff grease, Black grease, Kimbrough Diff grease and Kyosho #3000 diff grease. I've been meaning to try Tamiya's anti-wear grease (a small jar came with my TA04 kit), but that is at my GF's place so it will have to wait.

The Purple Stuff and Kyosho greases, though quite thick, seem to lack surface tension or tackiness, meaning they don't adhere to the moving parts enough. The Ofna gear oil, is also quite thick, but since it is an oil, it leaks pass the case and ring gear interface too easily, creating a mess. Since the TB01 diffs are not really sealed (hermetically), oils are definitely not the best idea. The best results I've been having is with the Associated Black grease in the front diff and Kimbrough's diff grease in the back. Each time, the diffs were cleaned, and reassembled using the ceramic grease (provided with the TB01) on the back side of the larger diff gears where the large (but thin) washer is used.

I am noticing that the screw holes for the three screws that hold the diff together are a bit loose, so I'm probably going to have to use some plumbers tape the next time I reassemble.

[nici]

today i ran it in the stuff thats not really snow and not water either. the stuff that falls from the sky and is wery wet. anyway, it wasnt that much fun cause the tires just spin and the car goes wery slow as the chassis hits the stuff... :( how come the rear of the chassi is much lower than the front? cant find the longer things for the shocks in the package :confused: anyway the electronics were all dry and when the whole car was dry the car was pretty clean aswell :)

[Albertt]

...how come the rear of the chassi is much lower than the front?
You can try either adding spacers to the top of the spring, or if you've already applied enough preload to the spring, you can remove the spacer inside the shock body that sits underneath the piston head of the shaft.

...anyway the electronics were all dry and when the whole car was dry the car was pretty clean aswell
Good to know. Are you drying off the bearings with motor spray and re-oiling them?

[metrikrc]

I have been using super tech lithium general purpose grease in the gear diff in my 01. Its about $.98 at wallmart for a14 ounce grease gun tube. It is stiff, tacky, and hasent leaked out yet. Im sure it eventually will as the diffs are not really sealed. RC car grease is way to expensive to be using so much of, and it all tends to thin out and leak. This stuff has tuned my rear diff to about as stiff as the ball diffs in the evo, and it has held its setting for a couple weeks now.

[Albertt]

I have been using super tech lithium general purpose grease in the gear diff in my 01. Its about $.98 at wallmart for a 14 ounce grease gun tube. It is stiff, tacky, and hasent leaked out yet. Im sure it eventually will as the diffs are not really sealed.

Cool, i'll go check the stuff out. Is it petroleum-based? I was going to use axle/bearing grease for 1/1 autos but when I saw the label stating that it contained petroleum, I was afraid that it would harm the plastic housing on the TB01 diffs.

[nici]

Are you drying off the bearings with motor spray and re-oiling them?
no, i woud but hevent got anything li´ke that. what would you recommend? something like wd-40? wont buy rc-specefic stuff as they cost way to much and hard to find where i live... :(

[Albertt]

no, i woud but hevent got anything li´ke that. what would you recommend? something like wd-40? wont buy rc-specefic stuff as they cost way to much and hard to find where i live...
WD-40 would work concentrate the spray into the side (raceway) of the bearings. If you could buy an RPM Bearing Blaster or something similar it would be best. After you spray (keeping in mind that WD-40 is not really a lubricating oil), you should apply light oil, sewing machine oil is good. If you're planning on running in water and snow again, coat the bearings, after you oil them, with thick grease, to prevent moisture from getting in to them.

[metrikrc]

The tube sais it contains mineral oil(heavy), and lithium soap. No mention of petroleum. It does mention to clean out any non compatibale grease before using this stuff. I had the diff packed with associated black grease and it mostly leaked out,, so thats what was inside the diff case when I packed it with the lithium grease. Hopefully, I havent created an acid that will eat up the plastic.

[nici]

at home we have a large can of from the sixties or somehing :) its metal and with green paper on it that says something like Singer symaskinsolja, ompelukoneöljy. (in swedish and finnish) the can is actually pretty cool :D anyway, first i spray WD-40 and then i put the oil on the bearings, correct? thanks! oh, tamiyas ceramic grease is thick enough? i dont think it is wise to put that on yet because the snow has melted allready and dust sticks to oil pretty good :) did that with my race-bike last winther, put thickened VAlvoline teflon oil on the chain. it was good but when it got dusty small rats got stuck in the chain :D had to soak it in solvents of iffert kind and clean it with a toothbrush and stuff :D

[Albertt]

About those foam pieces that come with the TB01 rally kit...I'm seriously thinking about trashing these. THe one that fits around the right side of the steering linkage really puts friction in the steering action.

For those with the aluminum motor mount and are still using the plastic tub chassis, do you use the small aluminum plate that goes between the motor and mount? I left it out, all it seems to do is take away thread engagement length of the screws in the motor can. I also used a washer for the lwer screw (non-slotted). I would recommend that the rest of you do the same because it gives a larger bearing surface for the screw against the motor mount.

About the aluminum steering arms, if you're planning on getting this for your TB01, you will need to get four 3mm flat head (for countersunk holes) machine thread screws. THe steering kit comes with screws that are not flat headed.

Finally, about the ESC switch. Does anyone have a clever way to mounting it in the tub's switch slot so that the power can be turned on and off without having to remove the inner body?

[93SRV]

i don't find the foam around the steering linkage too bad after i stretched a bit.. when it's new it's pretty bad but maybe take your knive and cut a bit more out of the middle.. it really does help with the dust and dirt..

i am using the motor mount plate.. haven't tried without yet..

as for the ESC, the only thing i can thing of is rigging up something where the original power switch was supose to be cause it's super convenient.. i dunno about you, but my ESC switch is way too small to screw in there..

[Albertt]

when it's new it's pretty bad but maybe take your knive and cut a bit more out of the middle.. it really does help with the dust and dirt.
I thought about doing that...I think I'll remove the lower part of the "smile" cut.

i am using the motor mount plate.. haven't tried without yet..
Try taking it out...the screws thread into the motor car more that way. To me, that plate serves no purpose.

as for the ESC, the only thing i can thing of is rigging up something where the original power switch was supose to be cause it's super convenient.. i dunno about you, but my ESC switch is way too small to screw in there..
I think I will servo tape it to the inner wall, and somehow adhere a piece of balloon over the hole. This way you can feel the switch, but the hole will be sealed. I have an LRP Quantum Reverse...the switch is tiny as well.

[Albertt]

Noticed kinking in the steering...found out what it was. I had upgraded the stock TB01 steering bell cranks to the TG10 aluminum (with bearings) steering kit. THe rod ends (grey colored) that form the link between the two bellcranks were scraping against the back of the front gearbox. A little trimming with my X-acto gave it the clearance. A note to those who plan on this modification...be prepared to do the trimming.

Anyone know about how heavy the TB01 (with electronics) is? Man, it feels significantly heavier than my TA04. Understandable though...it's got metal gears...a steel driveshaft...a lot more bulk altogether.

[nici]

whee! tuned the timing on my lrp v 10spec2 17x4 nad got loads more speed. my cousin(whom i got the motor from nearly new) had tuned the motor pretty crap. the timing scale is from 0-7 on the motor and it was around 8!! changed it to about 4 and got more speed :) id put more but when it sarts snowing the roads get pretty slippery so i dont need that much power ;) stopped the interference too when i relocated the antenna and cut it shorter(it was over 20cm too long!!!) :) anyway, does normal 190mm bodies fit the tb-01? i was thinking of getting the HPI audi a4 Avant body :) the avant is pretty nice :eek: BTW what 190mm body would you recommend for rallying?

[Albertt]

...does normal 190mm bodies fit the tb-01? i was thinking of getting the HPI audi a4 Avant and the Subaru Impreza bodies...

Yes, 190mm bodies do fit Tamiya cars...but might actually be a bit wide at times. Tamiya cars are about 183mm to 185mm...nothing a few spacers can't fix.

[nici]

tamiya bodys are not that durable either, atleast the lancer VII has so many sharp details so it has cracked at several places, mainly in the front, i wonder why :D and do you know a foam-bumper that would fit in the front? and also where should i put spacers? about 2-3mm on both sides i assume, on the axles between the rims and the hex-thing?

[Albertt]

...tamiya bodys are not that durable either, atleast the lancer VII has so many sharp details so it has cracked at several places, mainly in the front, i wonder why...
Really? I've used a lot of different bodies and found that Tamiya bodies, due to them being thicker, usually last longer.

I've seen racers line the inside of the body with duct tape or reinforced packing tape to prevent cracking under impact.

and do you know a foam-bumper that would fit in the front?
A foam bumper would definitely help prevent premature damage to the body. The bumper would serve to keep the front end from folding in. When I get around to it, I'm going to putting a foam bumper on my TB01.

and also where should i put spacers? about 2-3mm on both sides i assume, on the axles between the rims and the hex-thing?
The spacers are hex shaped and generally go bewteen the hex hub and the wheel.

[nici]

ok, the tamiya pin-type axles are really starting to piss me off :mad: first i snapped one on my king blackfoot sliding into a pile of snow so the wheel folded under the truck. and about five minutes ago i snapped it on the tb! :mad: i guess ill have to ask my lhs what the new part costs, i suppose its pretty expensive as spares gere usually are... :( i like the kyosho non-pinned type better as it has never broke, and i havent driven my qrc beetle that smooth really... :D and about the body, my tamiya mondeo body held up pretty fine, its just that the lancer has so many sharp details on it and it wont flex enough so it cracks :(

[Aluma]

man you musta been doing some freaky moves or major speed to break an axle on a TB evo.... I've hit mine on the wall sideways many times and haven't broken an axle yet...I hate that 90 turn at the end of the straight. :D

[Albertt]

ok, the tamiya pin-type axles are really starting to piss me off first i snapped one on my king blackfoot sliding into a pile of snow so the wheel folded under the truck. and about five minutes ago i snapped it on the tb!
What part of the axle did you snap? Are you talking about the dogbones? I know the TB01 is heavy, and at high speed it'll have a lot of momentum, but snapping steel axles...it's sounds like you took one heck of a hit.

If you broke a hub carrier or the steering hubs, I can understand...it's probably pretty cold...and those parts are plastic.

[nici]

the thing that the pin goes thru and the plastic hex-thing attaches to. it breaks where the pin is :( a piece of advice, dont drive your car in the dark on o dusty parking-lot :D and being tired soesnt really help improving driving skills either so i hit a concrete thing about 5 inches high almost full speed(17x4 mod) and the wheel flew in the bushes :D oops.

[93SRV]

that must've been some crash to break that !

and for the record, i find tamiya bodies WAY more durable than HPI's.. if mine was an HPI, it would be in 10 different pieces by now.. not to mention the tamiya bodies are better to scale and the detail is incredible..

i want the cosworth escort rallye body that tamiya akes but i can't find it anywheres. anyone know where i can order this?

[nici]

i know they are wery realistic and made of thick polycarbonate, its just that the MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTUION VII- BODY has so many and so sharp details so it cracked. id get tamiya bodys but first of all the are hard to find, second they cost a fortune(over double the normal body) and you cant really call them "high-performance" can you. they are taller, heavier, and tha aerodynamics is worse than race bodys+ the wings (if there is any) are too small as they are scale too. dont get me wrong, i like tamiya bodys wery much because they are so realistic and detailed but wouldnt race one. i would definately get the supra, HKS racing altezza and the Integra bodys from tamiya if they didnt cost 39.99 £!!! thats about 50$ i think. cheap as muck eh?

[Aluma]

well, if i was you I'd get the HKS altezza... Its WORTH the cash! Its very strong, and has MONSTER downforce. I use it on a regular basis now, I used to use a "Stratus" but my car was really squirrely....i just switched to the HKS and WOW! the car was dialed! Its really incredible how much of a differece a body makes.

[nici]

in $$$ the hks body would cost exactly 65.6439 USD!!
:eek: and http://www.apexmodels.com site doesnt show if they are in stock, i would have to e-mail them. ooh! owerly difficult obstacle! :D but thats not legal for racing is it? i dont think its legal here anyway. if it is its pretty cool :) btw. "here" is vantaa, finland. http://virtual.finland.fi/finfo/images/suomi.gif vantaa is where the helsinki square is.

[nici]

and ordering from apex models would be a pain in the ass. first, on theyr website they say this, "Please note that due to the hundreds of e mails we receive each day we are unable to answer multiple question messages. Messages with attatchments are no longer opened." and it would be difficult to ask one question per mail, and then i would have to fax my order with dads creditcard stuff(as i dont have my own) and ask them to reply if and when they could ship the package :( knw any other shops who sell the hks body in europe?

[Aluma]

just order it from towerhobbies.com

they are $29.99 USD

[nici]

hmm... i could do that as that is not so expensive. i got the qrc beetle last winter from towerhobbies and i knew this before i ordefred but there will be about 30% taxes+ customs and stuff :( but if it even doubled the prize it would still be cheaper than getting it from england... quite funny actually :D

[nici]

ooh, for only 8$ extra i get it painted "carbon" :cool: thats about what a can of paint costs so id get it painted =) also thinking of getting the Supra or maeby the integra body :D :cool: i think i would put the integra on my ff01! and a lexan body for my king blackfoot. and the replacements for the broken parts on my king blackfoot! and for the tb-01! and also for my qrc beetle and ff01 :rolleyes: and i should most definately also order improved driving skills :D

[Albertt]

Who applies grease to the spur and pinion?

Also, I'm running the 61 tooth spur with the stock 16 tooth pinion. I'm a bit afraid to move to a 18 or 19 tooth pinion for fear of overgear and burn out the motor.

Finally, for those with the stock suspension (not LSA), do any of you have extreme chattering/vibration in the front driveline when applying throttle and having the steering at full lock? I've been forced to turn my dual-rate almost halfway down to prevent this problem.

THanks
AL

[metrikrc]

Its probably your dogbones chattering. The lsa kit includes dogbones and it chatters a bit too at full steering lock. The only way to get rid of it is to buy universals for the front axles. As far as grease on the spur and pinion,, I dont ever do it. It attracts crud.

[Albertt]

Its probably your dogbones chattering. The lsa kit includes dogbones and it chatters a bit too at full steering lock. The only way to get rid of it is to buy universals for the front axles.
Shoot, I forgot to mention...I do have universals in the front...I put in the ones made for the stock short suspension arms. I was surprised when I saw this happen...I figured that the universals would take care of this problem that I've seen in many other kits including my TL01 and M03. Perhaps I will have to live with turning the dualrate down.

As far as grease on the spur and pinion,, I dont ever do it. It attracts crud.
That's what i've always thought. But, i noticed that the manual says to do so and that the spur and pinion are pretty much enclosed...so it made me curious as to whether anyone else was lubing their spur and pinion.

[Aluma]

my evo2 does the front chattering thing too... I does that cuz the cups are loose in the diff...put some grease on the splines and stickem in, plus maybe an extra o-ring inside to tighten them up to the bones. It helped quite a bit doing this...but you still have to turn the dual rate down a little. Until Tamiya makes a one piece cup/diff. ring like associated, they will always chatter.

[metrikrc]

Oh yeah, I totally forgot about the diff cups. If an oring makes the bones too tight, try cutting slices of fuel tubing to the correct thickness. Thats what I did to tighten up he bone end.

[Dan H]

Hi guys, I am considering a TB-01 (Raybrig NSX.) One of my LHS is having a Tamiya spec class. Tub chassis only and stock kit tires with stock silver can motor. Tamiya bodies only too. (Better than seeing a field of Stratus's) Anyways, should be fun!

Anything in particular I should know about or get? I already plan on buying ball bearings and a different ball cups to remove the notorious Tamiya slop in the suspension.

[metrikrc]

The raybrig nsx already comes with the lightweight transmission components, so next would be the aluminum motor mount. Consider it a must have. The plastic mount will be a severe weakness in actual race conditions. Next I would recomend the LSA kit, ball diffs, front universals,, in that order.

[Dan H]

Thanks for the info!

[creep]

Aluminum suspension mounts reduce the slop.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Dan H
Hi guys, I am considering a TB-01 (Raybrig NSX.) One of my LHS is having a Tamiya spec class. Tub chassis only and stock kit tires with stock silver can motor. Tamiya bodies only too. (Better than seeing a field of Stratus's) Anyways, should be fun!

Anything in particular I should know about or get? I already plan on buying ball bearings and a different ball cups to remove the notorious Tamiya slop in the suspension.

Dan, good to see you here. Who has a Tamiya Spec class? You should have mentioned to me you were looking for a TB01, I sold mines for a song not too long ago and it had all kinds of hop-ups.

Avoid the graphite prop shaft as it will fall apart on you quickly (ask me how I know this). Tamiya makes a one-way diff and a ball diff for this car as well. Cross makes an adapter to use standard spur gears on this car ($10) so you don't have to use Tamiya spurs if you don't want to. The .6 gears they sell for it work, though.

BTW, now that HPI's forums are gone, where are you guys hanging out and chatting? How's college? Later!

[Dan H]

Hey PCC! Some of the gang are on the Racing forum under an old SFBA at RCTech.net. Been meaning to tell Jeff but lost his email addy. College is going pretty well.

Thanks for the info about the TB-01. Anyways, Sheldons just started this class recently. I only live 10 minutes away from them so why not? :) Everything from TL-01's, TA01-TA03, FF02's, etc. are being run there. TA04's aren't allowed though. Anyways, stop by the RC Tech forum sometime. :cool:

[PCC]

Dan, since you're near Sheldon's ask them about that Beetle Cup series they were talking about last year. I have a car that is almost ready for that but need a series to run. Thanks!

[Dan H]

I'm not sure about the Beetle Cup race. I can't find the rules anywhere and most of the time, I go home on the weekends so I haven't seen a Sheldons race yet. Try emailing sandyob@earthlink.net

He should be able to give you all the details. From what I heard, its anything goes as long as you have a Beetle body.

[PCC]

Thanks!

[Albertt]

Cross makes an adapter to use standard spur gears on this car ($10) so you don't have to use Tamiya spurs if you don't want to.
I searched and found a few sites selling Cross Racing products, but didn't see anything about a spur gear adapter for the TB01...only for the F201. Do you have a link or a part number?

Thanks
AL

[PCC]

It's some site in Hong Kong. Sorry, but the link is on my laptop and I loaned it to a friend. When I get it back I'll post here.

[fabolousRC]

Hey Dan, I got an extra tub chassis Tb01 that I'm selling. LMK if you want it. It comes with full ball bearings and the aluminum shaft. I might have the stock rally tires somewhere if that's what they require otherwise it comes as a rolling stock.

[Albertt]

Anyone here come up with any ideas on mounting a foam bumper on the front? I bored two holes in an HPI bumper and mounted on top, but it just doesn't sit on small bumper properly. I was thinking about ordering this:
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/img/50803.jpeg 50803 TG10 Bumper
Anyone else put this on their TB01?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by Dan H
Hey PCC! Some of the gang are on the Racing forum under an old SFBA at RCTech.net. Been meaning to tell Jeff but lost his email addy. College is going pretty well.

Thanks for the info about the TB-01. Anyways, Sheldons just started this class recently. I only live 10 minutes away from them so why not? :) Everything from TL-01's, TA01-TA03, FF02's, etc. are being run there. TA04's aren't allowed though. Anyways, stop by the RC Tech forum sometime. :cool:

NO TA04!?!?! why not!?!:confused:

[Dan H]

Thanks for the offer fabolous. I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy a new one but I'll let you know if I'll buy yours instead.

TA03 Drive Hard, I think maybe because the TA04 has a significant handling advantage towards the other Tamiya cars. The TA04's do in fact handle really well.

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by Albertt
Anyone here come up with any ideas on mounting a foam bumper on the front? I bored two holes in an HPI bumper and mounted on top, but it just doesn't sit on small bumper properly. I was thinking about ordering this:
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/img/50803.jpeg 50803 TG10 Bumper
Anyone else put this on their TB01?

I was thinking of purchasing the TGX bumper set instead which is going to cancel out the use of foams all together lolz

[Albertt]

Does the TGX bumper fit? It doesn't look as though it does. Also, it's flat as opposed to kicked up like the TG10 bumper. It would get caught on things more easily. Just a thought.

[PCC]

TGX front bumper won't fit.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by Dan H
Thanks for the offer fabolous. I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy a new one but I'll let you know if I'll buy yours instead.

TA03 Drive Hard, I think maybe because the TA04 has a significant handling advantage towards the other Tamiya cars. The TA04's do in fact handle really well.

Thats a load of garbage... if thats a rule, that is a sorry rule... if youre gonna run tamiya cars run em all... but i guess youre right, it is a high end tc car... but still:p

[Dan H]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Thats a load of garbage... if thats a rule, that is a sorry rule... if youre gonna run tamiya cars run em all... but i guess youre right, it is a high end tc car... but still:p

Yeah, if it weren't for that rule, I'd be running a TRF414M2. :p

[Albertt]

This bad boy fits perfectly on my TB01. I slapped on a urethane foam piece (need to be trimmed up front because of the low hoodline of the Focus body) and now it prevents the front of the body from pushing in when I bump into things. http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/img/50803.jpeg
50803 TG10 Bumper

:D

EDIT: I've been babbling about my TB01 for weeks now...here are some pics of it...it's now a bit scarred and dirty.
http://images.cardomain.com/installs/217000-217999/217465_10_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/installs/217000-217999/217465_11_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/installs/217000-217999/217465_12_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/installs/217000-217999/217465_13_full.jpg
I don't know why the color looks so light, I used Pactra Blue Streak (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCY15&P=7) for the polycarbonate and Testors Dark Blue for the mirrors and spoiler.

[dolemite]

anybody order from rainbow ten to the USA i fixing to put a order for the tb III but im a little worry about giving credit card info and not getting product are they good on their word ,anybody:confused:

[Aluma]

box stock...which is better to run around and do small jumps...

HPI RS4 rally subaru

Tamiya TB01 subaru

I noticed there's lots of different TB01's, which one is best for offroad?

[Cychalen]

Aluma. All I can tell you is the following.
Do not get Raybrig NSX 2000 or Enzo Ferrari if you are getting a TB-01, because they are for on-road. The rest are for off-road.

[creep]

I would have to say the TBO1 is probably more durable than the RS4. It has softer arms that would bend and give a little, it's shaft driven so landing from jumps won't cause the belt to skip and wear down, and if the HPI is anything like the RS4 MT you can strip the spur gear when it lands if you don't set the slipper clutch loose enough.

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Aluma
box stock...which is better to run around and do small jumps...

HPI RS4 rally subaru

Tamiya TB01 subaru

I noticed there's lots of different TB01's, which one is best for offroad?

The HPI Rally and the Tamiya are both very durable. THe Rally is based off of the older RS$ Pro chassis is belt driven. From my expereience with my TA04 and my friends RS4 Sport2, belt drives tend not to hold up well in a dirty environment. Suspension wise, I don't see anything that would put one on top of the other when it comes to small jumps, though HPI makes better shocks.

THe TB01s you want will come with the inner body shell. See my pictures above.

[Cychalen]

I just finished assembling my TB-01. It is a Raybrig NSX 2000.
The problem I have is that the drive shaft keeps coming out of the front wheel axel. This happens only to the front passenger side when I turn the wheels. The rear gearbox joint has an O-ring to prevent the drive shaft from shifting into it too much, but the front gearbox joint does not have an O-ring. Is this the reason why the drive shaft keeps coming out? If this is the case, will an O-ring solve this problem?
The other thing is that the car is very loud and I am only running it with the stock motor. I have full bearings. It sounds like a squealing hyena at full speed. It is even louder than my TXT-1. Is this normal?

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Cychalen
The problem I have is that the drive shaft keeps coming out of the front wheel axel. This happens only to the front passenger side when I turn the wheels. The rear gearbox joint has an O-ring to prevent the drive shaft from shifting into it too much, but the front gearbox joint does not have an O-ring. Is this the reason why the drive shaft keeps coming out? If this is the case, will an O-ring solve this problem?
The other thing is that the car is very loud and I am only running it with the stock motor. I have full bearings. It sounds like a squealing hyena at full speed. It is even louder than my TXT-1. Is this normal?
For the front, I would insert o-rings as well. Check how much play there is in the drive shaft when the wheels are pointed straight. If there is a lot, and two o-rings are needed, then put one on the gearbox side, and another in the wheel hub side. A more expensive fix would be to purchase the universals for the front.

As for why you car is loud, if you have the stock plastic motor mount, the spurgear to pinion mesh should be fine. Did you lubricate all the gears as per the instructions? Also, realize that it will take some time for the gears to break in, tolerances are tight when the car is new. Finally, remember that this is a shaft driven cars, so don't expect it to be as quiet as a belt driven car.

[Cychalen]

Thanks for your reply.
I think I will go with the o-rings way.
I have the aluminum motor mount and I think they are meshed right.
Yes, I lubricated as instructions but there is still a bit of lubricant left. I think I will lubricate a bit more to see what happens.

[Cychalen]

I dissassembled the gearbox and applied all the grease that was left in the tube. I think it is a bit quieter now. On the other hand, maybe I am getting used to all that noise. :p

[TRF Drive Hard]

Applying all that grease... or emptying out the tube:p wont really help much... you just asked for a dirt attraction, when this stuff "melts" it like leaks all over your gearbox... plus too when you run the car... the spinning force ir gonna splat the ceramic grease all over the inside of the gearbox... try Anti-Wear... this stuff will sure enough muzzle the noise a bit... i use this stuff in my diffs and it works;)

[Cychalen]

What is Anti-wear? Is that the name of a product?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya tamiya makes it... goes around for 7 bucks on tower hobbies... mainly used for universal joints, but i found it good in the tranny:D

[Cychalen]

I think I know what it is. It is a sticky stuff that you put on the drive shaft. It came with my TA04-R.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya its greyish and sticky lookin;)

[Cychalen]

Here is my TB01.
Yes, that is a Deans-Tamiya adapter you are seeing. :D I will change the ESC's plug to Deans later.

[Cychalen]

If you look carefully, you will see that the ESC is a LRP Truck Digital (previously in my truck).
Anyone here knows the limit for this ESC? It does not show in the manual.

[Cychalen]

I don't know why the color looks so light, I used Pactra Blue Streak for the polycarbonate and Testors Dark Blue for the mirrors and spoiler.
You should play with the "White balance" option in your camera if there is one.

[Cychalen]

fabolousRC, I checked my mesh again. I placed a piece of paper between the pinion and spur gear to make sure they have some clearance. It is still whining. Maybe I am too sensitive to noise.

I just finished reading this thread from the beginning to the end, and found out that the vibration in the front driveline when applying throttle can't be fixed. :(
I should have consulted you all before getting mine.
I also found out that the steering has a lot of slop. The only way to solve it is to buy the Aluminium Racing Steering Set plus the TB01 Long Suspension Arm Set.
I think I will keep this one stock and save for other things.

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Cychalen
...I also found out that the steering has a lot of slop. The only way to solve it is to buy the Aluminium Racing Steering Set plus the TB01 Long Suspension Arm Set...
I added the aluminum steering and the hub carriers because they support ball bearings. Using ball bearings allows for tighter clearances, thus elimnating slop. The major source of slop in my TB01's front end stems from the upper suspension link.

[Cychalen]

I inserted o-rings and now the drive shaft does not come out anymore. Thanks.
This is the free modification I made to the steering to remove the slop and the vibration in the front driveline. The stronger the rubber band, the more slop and vibration it removes.
I think this mod is slowing down the reaction time of the servo and making it work harder. Besides these 2 points, I don't think there is a downside. What do you think?

[Cychalen]

I forgot to insert the picture. :cool:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by Cychalen
I forgot to insert the picture. :cool:

Sweet lord Cy... its like adding a steering tensioner:eek:

[Cychalen]

Is that good or should I take it out before I break something? :confused:

[TRF Drive Hard]

It wont break... but seems like it might or may create stress on the servo like you said... but not really bad... have you tried putting "O" rings on the steering knuckle? or you can put shims in the shafts that hold the suspension... that should help reduce the slope...

ted

[Cychalen]

Thanks. I will try what you suggested later.
I already have full bearings and aluminun heatsink. I just ordered the upper cover and dustproof sponge (for steering and motor). The road version of TB01 does not come with these.
I am already spending more than I expected on this car so I will stop here.
One more question. The rear body mount that came with the kit is too short to mount other bodies. Anyone know the part number for the longer mounts? I can not find it.

[TRF Drive Hard]

You dont have any extras on the tree? usually they do and its kinds wierd not having extras;)

[Cychalen]

Yes, but the extra one has a L shape. If I use this one, the hole will have to be drilled on the edge of the trunk or where the wing is and that's not good.

[TRF Drive Hard]

That "L" shaped body post can be used for other bodies, other than the one you are using now;)

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Cychalen
...One more question. The rear body mount that came with the kit is too short to mount other bodies. Anyone know the part number for the longer mounts? I can not find it.
The rubber band idea is sound. Perhaps if you placed across the two bell cranks directly, instead of over the chassis to the tie-rods, there would be a bit less friction?

As for your rear body mounts, all you may need are the extensions. The Impreza WRC version of the TB01 has them. Find them on the exploded view then match the P/N to that on the parts list.
I think it's 50852:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58271b.pdf
http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58271.pdf
If you want to mount a hatchback type of body, you'll most likely need the extension the Ford Focus WRC TB01 has...see my pics.

[Cychalen]

Thanks a lot. I just checked and I have those extensions. My Modena 360 fits perfectly now. I did not know what they were because these unused parts are in gray in the manual and without description.

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Cychalen
...I just ordered the upper cover and dustproof sponge (for steering and motor)...
I just remembered...the dustproof sponge for the steering, you're going to want and modify it before you use it. If you use it as is, it will impede the steering speed. I suggest trimming the front side of the "smile" so that the ball end that travels through it doesn't rub.

[Cychalen]

Thanks for the tip. I will modify it when the parts arrive. The stuff I ordered will arrive in 1 1/2 months from Japan. I think I will have to run the car like a road car for a while. :(
I removed most of the slop and vibration by inserting o-rings in the drive shaft and upper suspension link, and by adding the rubber band around the steering.
I only had the opportunity to run it in the house. I will test it outside this weekend to see how I like it.

[TRF Drive Hard]

...arrive 1 1/2 months from japan

:eek:dude, your closer and shipping takes that long?:eek:

[Cychalen]

I don't think shipping takes that long. I think the next shipment he is receiving is in 1 1/2 months.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Thats still too long:( i would go everyday to the shop ask "is it here yet?" repeatedly until he pulls it out from under the counter:D

[dolemite]

a man to that ;)

[Cychalen]

I know, but he told me that no one had those items in stock. Not even Tamiya HQ.
I saw the Enzo kit last week at the shop and it is still there. I guess TB01 is not a popular car here.
Update. I applied some Armor All to the rubber band and it removed some friction.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey thats a neat idea... why they mount the enzo on the tb01 is beyond me... shouldve been on the 04r or even better... the 414m2:D now the enzo would deserve some real respect to most rc enthusiast;)

[Cychalen]

Releasing it with the EVO III would be nice. :)
Who is buying an EVO III?
Tamiya will release Enzo with the TG10MK-1 Glow Engine Chassis.
FYI. Enzo Ferrari Wheels have an offset +4.

Update: Evo III is arriving here around the end of the month. Tempting! ;)

[dolemite]

I am evo III or tg10 r im still debating dammit is a hard decision :mad:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Here, lemme help ya dolemite... EVO3:D ok? better? just get the EVO3... everyones gonna want one so... lol:p

[Cychalen]

I always found electrics to be more "refined". Evo III is the only answer.

[Cychalen]

Update on my TB01.
I got TG10's bumper and urethane foam piece. This will reduce the chance of the front snapping in half.
I also replaced all the turnbuckles that came with the kit with these ones. It eliminates some slop.
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53457.jpg
The kit motor is sloooow... I am replacing it with Trinity Speed Gems 2 19 turn double. Will stock gearing kill the motor?

[TRF Drive Hard]

It wont kill... you'll have better speed... maybe gear one down, but i tend to gear up... but you will notice an increase in speed... btw, as with all tamiya stock cans, we always buy a better motor before riding it:p

[Cychalen]

The stock motor appeared to be fast indoors. .:rolleyes:
I think Tamiya includes different motors in different kits eventhough they all look the same. This motor was easy to turn with my fingers, but the ones that came with the truck were really difficult to turn. Anyone noticed that?
I wonder what comes with TB01 rally kits.

[TRF Drive Hard]

All tamiya kits come with the standard 540 either Johnston or Mabuchi, with a "special kit" the RS540 sport tuned... unless otherwise note that a certain kit will not come with a motor;)

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Cychalen
...This motor was easy to turn with my fingers, but the ones that came with the truck were really difficult to turn. Anyone noticed that?
This is because more powerful motors (more $) have stronger magnets. The magnet's field are what create the torque you feel when you turn the rotor shaft.

[Albertt]

Originally posted by Cychalen
Update on my TB01.
I got TG10's bumper and urethane foam piece. This will reduce the chance of the front snapping in half.
I also replaced all the turnbuckles that came with the kit with these ones. It eliminates some slop.
http://www.tamiya.nl/pics/tamoptions/53457.jpg
The kit motor is sloooow... I am replacing it with Trinity Speed Gems 2 19 turn double. Will stock gearing kill the motor?
That's exactly why I went with the TG10 bumper...the stock bumper was not wide enough and didn't allow me to attach the foam insert. All you need are the two small rounds plates, a pari of bore inserts, a pair of self locking nuts and two long machines screws and you can attach the foam. THe two round plates, and inserts (which go into the TG10 bumper from the bottom are included in the TB01 kit...they are shown as unused parts on the same tree the front and rear bumpers come off of.
I replace the threaded rods with turnbuckles as well...wanted to be able to adjust the camber on the fly. Also, the stock rod ends used those darn screws...lots of slop. The rod ends Tamiya supplied with the turnbuckle kit use a bored ball, which when you secure the machine screw, have no play at all.

[Cychalen]

I can't drive without a bumper. It is like driving without wearing a seat belt.
Ok, I admit it. I am a bad R/C car driver. :p

[TRF Drive Hard]

Driving your rc car in open quarters without any obstructions cant be bad... but driving in closed quarters takes skill... eh who cares, just ram em:p

[Cychalen]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Driving your rc car in open quarters without any obstructions cant be bad... but driving in closed quarters takes skill... eh who cares, just ram em:p

The feets on my chairs and tables already have dents on them. I could control the car with the stock motor but with the 19T it was impossible. :D

This TB01 handles better than I thought it would be. The speed and run time with the new motor was pretty good too. The motor was hot after 4 packs, but I could keep my fingers on it so I think the gearing is ok.
I was a bit disappointed at first, but with the help of you guys I am starting to like it.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Eh... you know youre gonna get another tamiya kit:D

[SegaBowMan]

what are the different versions of the TB-01. and which one is best suited for bashing and an occasional race?

[Cychalen]

The road version (Raybrig NSX 2000 and Enzo) is faster and lighter because it comes with lightweight components. The rally version (58286 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII WRC, 58281 Ford Focus WRC 2001, 58271 Subaru Impreza WRC 2001 Prototype, etc.) is better protected from dirt. They come with the upper cover and dustproof sponge.
If you are getting the road version, get the new Enzo. Bumpers and full ball bearings are included in the kit. I had to buy them separately. I have the NSX.
If you are getting the rally version, get one that is mentioned above. They come with full ball bearings, the rest do not.

[DIrTjUNkie]

newbie here.......is it not recommended to use the light weight gears in the rally TB-01? overall strength a factor?

ray

[TRF Drive Hard]

The light weight gears are intended for on-road versions of the tb01... less rotating mass versus the stock metal gears... given the tolerance of the light weight gears, it is not recommended for rally, this will cause your light weight gears to wear out prematurely