The Forum for TB-01s, TB01 EVOs, and anyone who has a TB01 inbetween

[TB01 2NR]

Well just to get things started, heres what i have:

1. TB01 onroad NSX
2. Hotbodies McLaren F1 body
3. Graphite chassis
4. Aluminum steering
5. RPM Invader rims
6. Ballbearings (duratrax)
7. TA03 Superlow friction dampers (yellow oil and blue prings)
8. Tamiya Slicks (need some new tires thinking about ordering a dozen Proline road rages?)
9. Futuba radio gear ( just broke my steering wheel a few days ago..dang!)
10. Futuba ESC


feel free to discuss set-ups parts, or just TB01 stories, also please no bashing, TB01

[MarNat]

Have you seen what Integy sells for the TB-01? Go to there web site and have a look. Really cute stuff.

I bought for mine their alu. steering kit and their motor mount. I too have the graphite plates and bearing kit.

Also, Penguin is making their own graphite chassis version for the TB-01 that even include shock towers. The good news is that they will sell the parts individualy. I talked to them and they said that their shock towers are gonna be compatible with the Tamiya Carbon chassis set..... Cool....

[TB01 2NR]

What are those companies websites?

[MarNat]

http://www.integy.com/index1.html

[MarNat]

http://www.penguinrc.com/welcome.shtml

[TB01 2NR]

Thanks man I am checking out the Integy site right now.

[Isky]

im thinking of buying a tamiya baja champ.

[This message has been edited by Isky (edited 03-08-2001).]

[TB01 2NR]

Isky that would be a TL-01B chassis type not a TB01. You'll find more help in TL01 threads, also, maybe you should check out the Project Baja Champ from RCCA about ayear ago, it was sweet.

[Isky]

Is the TB01 Rally any good? Its a nice car...

[TB01 2NR]

Depends, all out it is the best rally car out there, but for large buggy or stadium truck style jumps the HPI is better. Both have lots of hop ups available. Both come in Kit form. The TB01 is however extreamly durable! I have only broken one part on mine, which has had extensive bashing, but the part was an aftermarket non tamiya so it doesnt really count does it? If you plan to ever convert to onroad the TB01 is a great choice! I'd go with it over the Baja Champ as far as a "better" quality car, but if you want to save a few buck s go with the Baja Champ. Also the HPI and Tamiya Rally cars are simliar prices, major differnce is the belt (HPI) vs. Shaft ( tamiya)

[TB01 2NR]

Well the topis seems to have died so I'll give it a boost hopefully lol :)

This was posted on the site awhile ago but I never added it to the TB01 forum. Anyways it was a concept for a TRF TB01 Stadium Truck. This obviously came about before the TB01 EVO. Anyways while this truck never made production someone could make one from a TB01 and some extra parts.

As you can see from the pic it looks like it was ment to replace the ageing Tamiya Stadium trucks specifically the Ford, Toyota Chevy threesome.

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/rc/kaizou/009trial/trial1.jpg

Next is a pic of the chassis. As you can see its a modified TB01 which is a natural choice because of its durability and that i was built from the beginning for off road. Also by using an existing chassis less parts need to be made and hop-ups are available when the truck comes out.

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/rc/kaizou/009trial/trial2.jpg

In the next picture you can see the modified suspension. Rather interesting idea and looks pretty cool.

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/rc/kaizou/009trial/trial5.jpg

Finally a picture of the wheel hubs. This is a custom part, probably to be replaced with something stronger after it went into production.

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/rc/kaizou/009trial/trial3_2.jpg


Finally here is a link to the Tamiya site where this is from.
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/rc/kaizou/009trial/trial.htm

[TB-EVO 1]

AHHHH finally~... some TB fans~~~.... from my SN you can guss I have a TB-Evo~ and Loving it~... here is my set up~

1.TB-Evo chassis (pretty much stock. I have changed the springs on the front and rare)
2. Futaba PDF radio
3. Keyence ESC (kick *** ESC in my opinion)
4. Opel V8 body and a Raybrig mugen NSX body
5. Trinity 2400 6cell batteries

That's pretty much it. The Evo kit is race ready out of the box. But just one thing that I am very disappointed about the kit is that it doesn't inculde any turnbuckle tie-rod for the suspension. for a kit that cost about 400 dollar they REALLY should inculde it. I am thinking taking my car to the track for the first time tomorrow. Just for practice and see how it perform....

[TB01 2NR]

Hey where all you guys go? Anyways heres some new news on the TB01 front.

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/show0110/tb_evo_thmb.jpg

:eek:

[ 09-22-2001: Message edited by: TB01 2NR ]

[dugrant153]

I'm thinking of getting a TB01 rally.
Looking for advice. Is it a worthy choice? It's quite expensive, in comparison to some other kits.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

i am looking into a TB 01 rally also
and i was wondering id=f it's an actual 'RALLY' car

I t sort of looks like a onroad with rally tires and body...
it's shocks are really small compared to hpi's rally ones.
Can you put longer shocks?

[PCC]

I recently bought a used TB01 from a friend. He was in the process of rebuilding it into an all graphite TC when his wife threw out the box containing a few things (like the shocks). He shelved the project and I bought it a year later.

It's got: Factory graphite chassis, graphite prop shaft, aluminum motor mount, the plastic ring gears, full ballbearings, Tamiya Dyna Run Super Touring motor, and probably some hidden mods/hop-ups.

I installed some HPI aluminum shocks and some tires on it and just threw in an ESC and receiver and drove it. It was quick. Not quite dialed but the suspension settings were as I received them so I don't know where the camber/caster/toe settings were. I've since removed the suspension and am in the process of converting the car to a true 190mm with HPI Nitro RS4 suspension arms and RS4 CVD's. I'm almost done with the conversion but need four more turnbuckles and the front CVD bones. I've ordered the PenguinRC rear shock tower for it but will run the stock setup for the front. I plan on getting the Integy steering upgrade, too, then I think it will be ready to race. Unfortunately, it will play second fiddle to my XRay but, who knows? I might like the TB01 more than I like the XRay.

[Throtl Hapie]

That truck thingy looks cool. I love the hub things. :eek:

[Dj Kumara]

Hey TB01 2NR, do u know the address to the project Baja Champ site? My brothers got one and I'm sure he'd like to know.

[PCC]

For you guys with the TB01 NSX, what chassis comes with that? Plastic tub, composite plastic tub, or sheet graphite? I'm wondering because I might add another TB01 to the stable.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

i am pretty sure it is plastic tub

i think i will get a HPI RS4 rally

[dugrant153]

Well, I ended up getting a TC3, NMT.

Haven't rallyed it yet. Probably going to happen in the summer. Still looking for some kind of innerbody shell for the TC3 rally! I know they're at apex models, but can't find them on the website!

[Poolboy51]

The TB01 or the TC3 Rally sound like the best choices for cars. Belt's ok 4 on road but as we all know, belt's and dirt just don't mix. I don't have quite enough money to get a TC3 so I'm prolly just gonna get the TB01 and race my friends sorry HPI rally ***** hahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!:D

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by dugrant153
Well, I ended up getting a TC3, NMT.

Haven't rallyed it yet. Probably going to happen in the summer. Still looking for some kind of innerbody shell for the TC3 rally! I know they're at apex models, but can't find them on the website!

did you jus get a racer kit or do you have the rally conv. also

[dugrant153]

It was a used racer kit, with blue adonized shocks.

I recently tested it in rally conditiond without the rally kit. With the stuff I'm doing, doesn't look like I'll need the rally kit at all!

Just need to find a way to cover the chassis properly.

[TB01 2NR]

The Baja Champ project was in RCCA a while back. Pick up a back issue, im sure you can do it directly from this site. Oh that pic that i posted which isnt loading anymore? It was for a TB01 EVO2. Hmmm havnt seen anything new since i posted it, wonder if the idea got selved or was a JDM only kit?

[ShinHed]

Anyone have pics of their TB series cars? I would post but, my camera got stolen at the arcade.:mad: My TB01 has most of the Tamiya hop ups except the aluminum rear uprights and aluminum hard rear suspension. It also has Penguin graphite shock stays and Eagle aluminum steering front hubs (more show than go).

[dugrant153]

Hey all,

Can anyone tell me the dimensions for the TB01 rally cover? Some pictures would also be nice.

It's for a rally TC3 project of mine. THanks!

[ShinHed]

:eek:

[ShinHed]

;)

[dugrant153]

VERY nice TB01, Shinhed.

[ShinHed]

Thanks

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well looks like i am a proud owner of the TB-01... just got it today... and finished putting it together... all i need now a nice motor to compliment it... im looking for a nice mod motor for it... what winds would you suggest... but please... ONLY TRINITY motors... nothin else would make me happy:D ...

[ShinHed]

TA03 Drive Hard

Its great to see more Tb01 fans like yourself. Which one did you get? I can't wait to see you hop-it-up like your ta03. To bad I can't suggest a Trinity for you cuz, I use Reddy Ti 10 turn dble with a stock 88 tooth spur and a 25 tooth pinion.

[TRF Drive Hard]

I really dont plan on hopping her up... it has ball bearings already so im cool with that... the kit i go was the Subaru impreza wrc 2001 prototype... if i was gonna hop it up... i might as well get the tb evo... it had all the hop ups i need:D

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
... if i was gonna hop it up... i might as well get the tb evo...
I know, I know but, sometimes its a hard habit to break.:(

[TRF Drive Hard]

Actually i bought this tb01 for my friend... he just doesnt know it yet... so hopping it up is outta the question... besides, it looks fine as is... hmm, thinkin bout gettin that tb evo for myself:D

[EazilyAmuzed]

I was just wondering what you guys have found to be the best handling body from tamiya. I would run a Dodge Stratus body but the Tamiya Championship Series only lets you run there bodies, so any help on this would be great.

[pugton]

I run a toa4 pro the best tamiya body i found for it was
a honda nsx it handled very good.
The worst was a skyline.
But everybody;s car handleds differnt depending on
track and conditions,

BEST OF LUCK WITH YOUR CHOICE

[TRF Drive Hard]

I'd say use the Opal V8 body... looks really nice... slap some carbon decals on the hood and its a slammin ride:cool:

[ShinHed]

pugton

I too use a NSX body. My next body of choice would be the new cr5 Corvette body. Based on full-scale aerodynamics testing, these are among the sleekest.

[pugton]

I think you can get that body shell already painted,
but a freind of mine did not like his he said it
gave to much down force at the front.

[we race on carpet at our club]
:)

[kartrun]

Hey guys,just thought i would jump right in and join you guys on this forum.Anyways,thought you guys would like to know that i am working on a TB evolution that i am planning on trying to challenge Cliff Letts record TC3.Anyways,for those of you who don't know about it,Cliffs cars was powered by 14 cells and a special built 10 turn mod motor.Plans for my car include 14-18 cells and a custom built modified motor....
i'm not telling how many turns;)
Anyways,just thought that might interest you guys...i plan on having it finished in the next couple of months and as soon as i do i'll post pics.

[ShinHed]

Be sure to keep us posted, even if this thread seems dead at times.http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/laugh.gif

[Aluma]

hi everyone, I have a TL01 and I just ordered a TB Evolution 2!

cant wait to get it!

[ShinHed]

Aluma (Akuma?)

Where did you get your TB Evo 2? I've never driven a TL01 or Evo 2 but, I bet you will be impressed. I'm guessing my current TB01 (i have many intelligent hop ups) setup is close to the performance of an Evo but, I don't know.......yet;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

I wanna TB EVO & TB EVO 2... need money, need power:p

[Aluma]

well I got it online direct from hong kong...It cost me more than I'd like to pay for a car, but If I've learned anything from my TL01, just buy the best version you can!!! HOPUPS costs sooo much for any car that in the end, all the hopups cost more than the pro car.

maybe I'll just sell it or keep it as a collector thing...

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by Aluma
...HOPUPS costs sooo much for any car that in the end, all the hopups cost more than the pro car...

Unfortunately, I know what you mean:(

[CAMRY17]

Good to see some other people loving the TB01.

I'm a nitro fan and have been for years. i bought the tb0

[CAMRY17]

Good to see some other people loving the TB01.

I'm a nitro fan and have been for years. i bought the tb01 2001 subaru last year as I wanted a rally car.

I've since added the tg10 sway bars and shock/ spring, a LRP ESC with peak 15 x 2 motor. This thing now hammers.

For a dual offroad/ onroad car its amazing after all the airtime and trashing its gotten how tough it is. I've had no problems, but one.

CAN ANYONE HELP. WITH THE ABOVE MODS I'VE DONE I ADDED THE ALUMIUM PROP SHAFT, THIS INCLUDES 2 BLACK PLASTIC BEAVERGEARS TO GO IN THE GEARBOXS. MY PORBLEM IS THE REAR PLASTIC (WHICH ATTACHES TO THE PROP SHATFT KEEPS WARPING AT THE REAR IN BETWEEN THE GEAR MESHING.

I'VE TRIED EVERYTHING, BUT CANNOT FIX IT AND CANNOT GO BACK TO THE ORIGINAL STEEL SHAFT.

ANY ADVICE ON HOW TO FIX IT.

CHEERS

[TRF Drive Hard]

How is it warping? does it fit snug?:confused:

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by CAMRY17
.........WHICH ATTACHES TO THE PROP SHATFT KEEPS WARPING.......

My rear small bevel gear is also warping. I've heard this has been happing to other owners too. I geuss I'll have to call Tamiya to see what the problem is.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hmm... a probable cause could be that the gears are moving a at higher rate than normal causing the gears to warp, in fact, getting warm... somewhere the drivetrain has too much friction... i have warped and melted the bevel gears in my ta02 before, this could be having the same effect... thoughts on this???:confused:

[CAMRY17]

I've spoken to the guys at my Hobby shop, and these guys have raced the TB's for years and they have never heard of the problem.

The only thing they could suggest was because I am running a reversing ESC, that when I apply the brakes I might be hitting the reverse and causing the plastic gears which have heated up from running hard to warp when they hit the main metal gears.:confused:

I have set the brake on the ESC so that I have heaps of brakes when I do brake.

I had thought of gluing a small washer to the back of the plastic gear, but am afraid that with the heat in the gearbox that this will just eat into the diff housing.

I want to fix this as I love driving the thing. It's awesome how hard it goes with so little maintance compared to nitros.

Any thoughts guys?

[Aluma]

UUUUU, boy!!! got the TB 2! got lots of parts! Its gonna be a while before I finish building it... :(

I was thinking of selling it, but it's just TOO beautiful!

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by Aluma
UUUUU, boy!!! got the TB 2! got lots of parts! Its gonna be a while before I finish building it... :(

I was thinking of selling it, but it's just TOO beautiful!

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

?you bought the tb2... and now you wanna sell it? where were you when they were passing out the brains?:p

[Aluma]

well, I thought about it and my brain kicked back in...

I finished building the EVO2! DAng its more beautiful than in the pictures... I just hope I dont mess up the ball diff cuz i dont know how to set it right...followed instructions, hope thats okay.

now if only that motor,ESC, and radio would hurry up an get here!!!:mad:


I cant stop looking at it...messssmerizzzing....

WARNING, dont stare at all the carbon for too long....
:D


anyone know if I can use aftermarket pinions and spurs on this thing?

[Maddmaxx]

I'm starting a new project. A TB01 built to TCS GT2 rules and possibly another for GT1. For most of my racing however I will have to run them against ROAR touring cars. I still think they can be competitive. Anyone have any advice on the mixing and matching of Tamiya wheels and tires for the NSX. I'm thinking about the 50810 semi slicks, 53293 reinforced slicks "A" and 53294 reinforced slicks "B" for various weather and track surfaces but don't have enouth info on wheel offsets yet. Also could use some advice on inserts. Most of my experience is with HPI tires and inserts.

[Aluma]

OMY!!! if you can get a quantum eSC do it!! they are SSSOOOO smalll!! it's about a quarter the size of a normal esc.

[TRF Drive Hard]

I'd go with firm in the front and medium firm in the rear... personnally i use firm all around, especially when using slicks...:cool:

[Maddmaxx]

2nd question. Can anyone tell me about the long suspension arm kit. Does this kit alter the width of the car like a 190mm to 200mm kit on a TC3 or is it designed with different pivot points to change the suspension travel at the stock width???

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by Maddmaxx
2nd question. Can anyone tell me about the long suspension arm kit. Does this kit alter the width of the car like a 190mm to 200mm kit on a TC3 or is it designed with different pivot points to change the suspension travel at the stock width???

From what I've heard, it does not. However I am researching a conversion using HPI arms. Here is a link..

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=6910

[ShinHed]

Pay no mind to my previous post. Upon more reading of the link I supplied, it only seems to benefit the TL01:mad: :(

[Maddmaxx]

Camry17 and ShinHed. Is the warpage you get on the plastic bevel gears after installing the aluminium drive shaft because you are using a metal diff gear. There is a lightweight diff gear set that contains a plastic diff gear that will give plastic to plastic gear mesh??? There may be an equivalent gear for the ball diff also but I'm not sure of that. This may be the answer. If not, then someone else give it a shot.
Incidently, the aluminium shaft and lightweight diff gears are part of the NSX 2000 kit now.

[ShinHed]

My kit is the NSX version, so I got all plastic and aluminum from day 1. I'm just gonna believe that the heat from running at high speeds did it.

[Aluma]

Ummm, can I use spur gears and pinions from other manufacturers? this .4 is soooo fine.... I just ran my car this morning and teeenneee little rocks got into them and slightly scarred the little teeth... or is there a way to protect from this?

and yes my EVo 2 flies!!! hehehe:D I put the power from the ESC to about half cuz its sooo fast!


about the ball diff. ...you're not supposed to be able to move the spur if you hold the drive cups right?

cuz i can, so do I tighten it more or loosen it more?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

how heavy is the stock TB01? (with or with out electronics)
THANX!!!

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

O... BTW is TB 01 rally car just a on road with a rally tires and body? how come it's shocks look like normal on road shocks? can you fit hpi rally super shocks?

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by ShinHed


My rear small bevel gear is also warping. I've heard this has been happing to other owners too. I geuss I'll have to call Tamiya to see what the problem is.

First my bevel gear was a little warped but now the whole inside is stripped:mad: Now a have a front wheel drive TB01.

I geuss the stipping was my fault for using industrial petroleum greese.:o

[CAMRY17]

""Camry17 and ShinHed. Is the warpage you get on the plastic bevel gears after installing the aluminium drive shaft because you are using a metal diff gear. There is a lightweight diff gear set that contains a plastic diff gear that will give plastic to plastic gear mesh??? There may be an equivalent gear for the ball diff also but I'm not sure of that. This may be the answer. If not, then someone else give it a shot.
Incidently, the aluminium shaft and lightweight diff gears are part of the NSX 2000 kit now.""

Yeah, I'm using the original metal diff.

Is there a plastic diff?

If so could anyone tell me about it.

Thanks for your help.

Cheers:D :confused:

[Maddmaxx]

There is a light weight gear set available under part #53401 that includes both the bevel gear for the end of the shaft and the large gear that attaches to the gear diff case. I'm still not sure about the ball diff. Like I said, these parts come stock in the NSX 2000 kit and that is part of the TB-01R chassis number (R for on road) The aluminium shaft and gears reduce the car weight by ofer 150 grams. I do not think that Tamiya recomends these gears for off road use.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

fine! just ignore me!!!
:( :( :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :(

[Dodge Ram]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
O... BTW is TB 01 rally car just a on road with a rally tires and body? how come it's shocks look like normal on road shocks? can you fit hpi rally super shocks?
I'm curious too. Seriously considering buying one, but Tamiya's site isn't exactly "packed" with info. What can you guys tell us?

[Aluma]

So we can only USE tamiya spurs/pinions on the Evo2 ?


:confused:

[Maddmaxx]

NMT_RACER_BOY. no one is ignoring you. Information sometimes takes time. A stock NSX 2000 TB01 kit weighs 1640grams. This information quoted from http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/58262nsx2000/nsx.htm

Aluma: for you half of the answer. The stock plastic motor mount for the TB01 kits (EVO may be different) is one of the tamiya "perfect mesh" designs that has different bolt holes for specific Tamiya gears. The optional aluminium mount however has the more useful single hole and slot method of gear lash adjustment. Now if we can come up with a spur gear adaptor for aftermarket gears then any gear combination can be run. In the meantime, Tamiya also makes an optional set of high performance gears similar to 64 pitch that can be used.

Dodge Ram: There is actually quite a bit of information on the Tamiya web site. They have the equivalent of an online catalog at http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts or in that general area. There are pull down menues that allow you to access different catagories of parts for different kits. The biggest problem seems to be that each and every tamiya kit is slightly different from the others and we need to decode what the "mix and match" is. For example, the NSX 2000 kit has 4 identical wheels in it but the hex adapters for the rear wheels is twice the offset of the front adapter. There are however NSX wheels available from older kits that have this difference built into the wheels. There are also long and short universal axles that one would assume would accomplish the same thing??? See where the confusion lies.

Best of luck all, this thread is getting better and better. I still need to know what the story is on the long suspension arm kit for TB01.

[Maddmaxx]

sorry Aluma: I just reread the thread and realized that you have already encountered the .4 option gears.

You are right, rocks will chew these gears up. they are for clean on road use only. Dirty environments need the "stock" .6 gears

[Maddmaxx]

Sorry for so many posts back to back but I just discovered this on the Tamiya web site.

For EVO owners, the gear that comes with the carbon or aluminium drive shaft "must not be used". Instead use the bevel gear that comes with the EVO kit or part 50911 EVO gear.

I don't know why this is but I suspect that the bevel gears may be different between the ball diff and the gear diff that comes in the other TB01 kits???

[trxstr1961]

i have a tbo1 too, and must say, its a nice car, but im wanting to get rid fo it, since i cant find gears for it :(

So, if u want it, let me know at mwilson478@comcast.net

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by Maddmaxx
Best of luck all, this thread is getting better and better. I still need to know what the story is on the long suspension arm kit for TB01.

I've heard many different stories about the long arm kit but, I know for a fact that they are the same arms include in the TB Evo car.

[Dodge Ram]

Does the TB01 have more ground clearance and/or suspension travel than a touring car? Hard to tell from pix I've seen. Hop-ups available to make it have more travel/clearance?
Is there a better choice of a Rally car in the same $$$ range?

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by Dodge Ram
Does the TB01 have more ground clearance and/or suspension travel than a touring car? Hard to tell from pix I've seen. Hop-ups available to make it have more travel/clearance?
Is there a better choice of a Rally car in the same $$$ range?
If you set up the TB01 Rally like it says in the manual, you get more clearence than a TB01 Onroader (damper placement, spacers, springs, different tires, etc..). I have a Tg10 rally (Gas version of TB01) and its considerably higher than my TB01 onroader NSX. The TB01 Hop-ups availabe are for onroad touring or turning your ralley into a touring car.

[Maddmaxx]

All of my TB01 experience (still limited) is on road.

It seems that your choices are 3 though. The TB01 rally chassis, the HPI rally car or the TC3 with rally conversion. All are similar!

You may have noticed that the newest addition to the Tamiya Championship Series is "asphault" rally.

I'm not sure that any of the rally cars are really happy on a traditional off road track (big air jumps, tabletops etc.) I think that they make up most of their time on the flatter parts of the track and try to avoid trouble on the really rough stuff.

A while back I tried to build a rally car from 2 different manufacturers chassis and parts breakage was really a problem. Sophisticated on road parts do not like dirt......It looks like good rally cars are relatively simple and bulletproof.

The TC3 has little protection from dirt and a gear that almost hangs out of the bottom of the chassis

The HPI car has a dirt shield cover but the belts may be fragile.

The Tamiya car seems to be ok but may not have as much suspension as the other 2.

I think the choices are equal. That means everyone will like the one they like.

[CAMRY17]

Dodge,

The TB01 is the best rally car.

The things indestructable.

I've rallied mine off 7ft high skate and BMX tracks with no damage.

Man the tub on this thing is bullet proof. The only problem I"ve found is I keep blowing my rear beaver gears, but changing th the pastic ones in the whole diff fixed this.

NOTE - THANKS MADDMAX FOR THE PART NUMBER.

You need this car.

It is the greatest.

Cheers :cool:

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by CAMRY17
Dodge,

The TB01 is the best rally car.

The things indestructable.

I've rallied mine off 7ft high skate and BMX tracks with no damage.

Man the tub on this thing is bullet proof. The only problem I"ve found is I keep blowing my rear beaver gears, but changing th the pastic ones in the whole diff fixed this.

NOTE - THANKS MADDMAX FOR THE PART NUMBER.

You need this car.

It is the greatest.

Cheers :cool:

Do you have ball-diffs or the standard ones that came with it?

[CAMRY17]

The standard GEAR Diffs that can with the 2001 WRX Prototype.

[Aluma]

hey can I fit the normal gears in my EVO 2?

i dont really like setting the ball diffs..

[CAMRY17]

Stick with the Ball Diff. In the long run if your racing there provide better set up and are faster to adjust trackside.

The originals will fit, but why mess with something Tamyia have invested heaps of time and money to get the best they can.

As I said above. The ball diff is better in the long run if your racing.

Stick with it and practice setting it.

As a guide I lock my front one up fully and set the rearend lose for high bit tracks. But have found this setting works well on 90% of surfaces like high traction tracks and even for playing tin the car park.

You want the rear to be just biting and REMEMBER TO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE FRONT.

Cheers :D

[Rza]

finally a place with tamiya fans.

my current setup is a

tb evo
TRF blue damper
hks altezza carbon pattern body.

and i love it.

[CAMRY17]

:cool:

Sounds great.

What sort of set up (motor, wind etc are you running).

[Rza]

i got
a Reedy MVP stock motor in it right now. i like it a lot. completely rebuildable too.

i had a dyna-run stock motor before the MVP but now its in the ta04.

explorer 2 esc

jr xr3 radio.

tamyia tb01hop-up link (http://www.tamiya.nl/tamoptions/tam_53000_tb01.html)

[ShinHed]

Here is a link to a thread with some better incite on the Long suspension arms. http://www.tamiya nitro.com/bbs/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=&TOPIC_ID=754



Edit: Remove space between Tamiya and Nitro

[Aluma]

Is it me or does the Dyna run motor bite?

its soo slow! I get lapped 3-4 times by everyone else...
and yes already ordered a P2K....atleast I can keep up now i hope.

also got a super tuned MVP...haven't used it yet though....I'm itching to know what it can do compared to a dyna-run i was using before. :)

[Maddmaxx]

Thank you ShinHead. I couldn't make the url work as you posted it but I went to **************** and worked it out from there. It looks like the answer is that the long suspension arm kit will still give you a 190mm car but with better suspension angles and with much better parts then the stock arms and pins. The kit is pricey at $70 tower but you get everything from the inboard suspension pins to aluminium hubs plus new dogbones etc. This is a hardcore racing mod for the TB01.

Aluminium stuff is pretty, but this stuff is racy (onroad racy, not necessarily rally racy)

This will just about complete my GT2 setup
1. NSX 2000 base kit
2. Ball Bearings everywhere
3. P2K stock motor
4. Aluminium motor mount
5. Long suspension arm kit
6. Shaped inserts with Reinforced slicks type A for spring type B for summer
7. One of my old Tekin 410 speed controls (now out of business)
8 Sanyo 2400 cells
9 lots of 3 x 10 titanium screws (excessive and manic at least)

Ok and not too pricy for some light and not too serious racing.

[Maddmaxx]

Ok, time to start a new discussion. Does your TB01 have support at both ends of the drive shaft. The NSX 2000 kit does not show in the instructions or have parts for the forward bearing. There is only one bearing back in the motor mount. There is however an obvious bearing location at the front of the chassis.

I was just wondering if the shaft could be supported at both ends and what effect this would have?

[Aluma]

hey, got back from racing my EVO2.... boy either my car sucks or something? got 6th place.... the only thing i can think of is the batteries I use... everyone is still faster!

maybe you guys can shed some light on this...
I have a EVO 2, quantum sport ESC, Matrix 9.5 pro MVP motor, and use 88T with 34T pinion(as u all know its the fastest acceleration combo) but I'm using tamiya style connected 1700 and 1900 battery packs...


could that be the problem?

[Maddmaxx]

Don't know the motor, how many turns?

[Aluma]

Matrix 9.5 is a stock motor made by integy from the Associated/REedy MVP stock motor....Its "tuned" or something.


the guys at my local track use Lightspeed motors...(tuned p2ks)

since it's a short track we need lots of torque. :D

www.integy.com look in stock motors section

[Maddmaxx]

Then you are probably geared wrong. Try going up to the 37 tooth pinion and see what hapens. Electric motors are strange compared to fuel burning engines. They make more torque at lower RPM. A driver who wants more power with a stock motor needs to get the motor to draw more current from the battery. I know that this is going down the effeciency curve but it is going up the torque curve. This may require that you go up to larger batteries to make the race time ie 2000 or 2400.
Basically you keep going up with the gears untill a...you can't make the time b... you start to slow down again or c... your motors start destroying themselves due to the overheating that goes with the taller gears. This gearing technique is what makes the A main drivers look so fast. Because they are smooth they can pull a taller gear and go even faster. A clear cut case of the rich getting richer.
Tamiya's suggestion for the TB01 is 19/58 for modifieds and 22/58 for stock motors. The numbers will be different for your .4 modulus gears but the ratio will be the same. Good luck and let us know what happens

[Maddmaxx]

Sorry, before anyone else jumps to conclusions. This gearing advice is for stock motors only. Modifieds still gear for RPM because they can have all the power they want by changing turns and regearing. Stock motors are..... well stock so to go fast you have to lean on them a little.

[CAMRY17]

Being a Nitro Guy. I am still a little confused on gearing of electric cars.

Maybe you guys can help me.

With the TB01 I have. I run a 15X2 motor running 21/55 gears.

It seems to have punch out of the corners, but looses some top end in the straight.

I want to give it more top end, but still maintain punch out of the corners.

I was thinking of going 18 or 19/55.

I must admit I have not tried the 58 or 61 gears yet.

Any advice on the best gearing.

Cheers

[Maddmaxx]

Its my humble opinion that you are on the opposite side of the problem from Aluma. I think you should be trying the 19/58 ratio. You are running a modified motor that wants to rev more freely. Try it and compare. Gearing is one of those things where the car will tell you what it wants. Try different things and see what happens. The worst that can happen is that it will be slower and you will go back to what works better.

Ok, my gears just came in today along with the aluminium motor mount so I'm going back to the dungon to install them. Guess what? A P2K pro on 22/58 gears for asphault.

You guys running rally cars want to subtract 1 or 2 teeth from the pinion from this advice. This is ment for on road racing type gearing and is a little extreme for grass and dirt.

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by Aluma
hey, got back from racing my EVO2.... boy either my car sucks or something? got 6th place.... the only thing i can think of is the batteries I use... everyone is still faster!

maybe you guys can shed some light on this...
I have a EVO 2, quantum sport ESC, Matrix 9.5 pro MVP motor, and use 88T with 34T pinion(as u all know its the fastest acceleration combo) but I'm using tamiya style connected 1700 and 1900 battery packs...


could that be the problem?
I personaly would change the batteries. I'm not a pro racer (I just bash in my TB01 Evolution clone) but, when I changed the type of batteries I used, it was like a new car. Depending on how hardcore you are, you my want to invest in some new connecters too.

[TravisZ2892]

Im selling my TBO1. Its got a Lancer Evo 6 Tamiya body, Futaba radio gear, Duratrax Streak ESC, Tamiya carbon fiber chassis set, a set of Drag style rear wheels, a set of 4 mounted foam tires, a set of regular tamiya style tires with inserts on pro-line gumby rims, and I still have the rims that came with it. Its the Raybrig NSX base. Im Selling off all my electric stuff to get a T-MAXX. I think $200 is a decent price what do yiou think. BTW Im in Jacksonville Florida. send me an e-mail if your interested.
TravisZ28MAXX@yahoo.com

[PCC]

Originally posted by ShinHed


From what I've heard, it does not. However I am researching a conversion using HPI arms. Here is a link..

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=6910

I did this conversion on my all graphite TB01. You need to use the longer NRS4 arms and the width will go a bit over the 190mm target but thinner hex hubs will cure that. The suspension almost drops right in. The width of the arm mount and the arm's attachment point are 2mm off. You will need to put some spacers in there. On my car, I have it set to the shortest wheelbase possible and the wheelbase still ended up longer than normal (~260mm). The front camber link needs to be mounted on the front of the caster block and the Ackerman will be screwed up a bit but I'm working on that one. For drive axles, I used CVD's, Pro2 bones in the front and Racer 2 front bones in the rear (with the appropriate axles in place).

All I can say is that this car handles sweet! I like it better than my other cars.

I ended up getting Penguin front and rear shock towers but I have the front one installed on the rear. Anyone want to buy a Penguin rear shock tower? I never used it, just installed it and pulled it off...

[Maddmaxx]

Unfortunately I can't build a TCS legal car (Tamiya parts only except for a few limited items) using this method.

Incidently, for those of you who want titanium ti-rods (not TCS legal) the Lunsford kit for the HPI RS4 Pro looks like a drop in. All of the rods are approximately the right length to take care of the steering and the upper arms. I wonder if you converted over to 5mm balls and ball connectors if some of the slop in the stock suspension would go away. This is for stock TB01's not EVO's

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by PCC


I did this conversion on my all graphite TB01. You need to use the longer NRS4 arms and the width will go a bit over the 190mm target but thinner hex hubs will cure that. The suspension almost drops right in. The width of the arm mount and the arm's attachment point are 2mm off. You will need to put some spacers in there. On my car, I have it set to the shortest wheelbase possible and the wheelbase still ended up longer than normal (~260mm). The front camber link needs to be mounted on the front of the caster block and the Ackerman will be screwed up a bit but I'm working on that one. For drive axles, I used CVD's, Pro2 bones in the front and Racer 2 front bones in the rear (with the appropriate axles in place).

All I can say is that this car handles sweet! I like it better than my other cars.

I ended up getting Penguin front and rear shock towers but I have the front one installed on the rear. Anyone want to buy a Penguin rear shock tower? I never used it, just installed it and pulled it off...

Yeah,
I too have the Penguin Graphite shock towers. I had too remove the front tower because my Nsx body would'nt fit properly. Do you have any pics or can you give me a list of all the parts used so I can emulate you, or do you think its better to buy the official Tamiya long arm kit? I can get it for about $36 shipped

[PCC]

$36 is a killer price for the Tamiya long arm conversion. I would do it if I were you. The main reasons for me to do the HPI arm conversion were: I had the parts available already, I wanted a true 190mm width both front and rear and i believe that longer suspension arms work better than longer hex hubs with short suspension arms like my car had, and, my LHS carries half a wall of HPI parts and only one stand-off with Tamiya parts (though they can order anything I might need for my Tamiyas - I don't want to wait most of the time).

I must say that I did something right when I put the suspension together because this car handles much better than my XRay does. I'll have to redo my XRay back to the latest setup sheet that I downloaded from their site but, for now, it doesn't do it for me.

[trxstr1961]

i have a tbo1 im not using and want to sell/trade it...im looking for parts for my rs4 sport i have...mwiolson478@comcast.net

have pics too for those interested :)

[Aluma]

hey guys got back from racing.... switched to 35tpinion and 2400 matched pack... well, I can keep up and pass some people but I have oversteer problems.

I think my springs are too soft...my chassis is sparking in the rough part of the asphalt.

oh yeah, anyone know what alternate gears I can use other than the ones provided in the kit? 88t and 55t...I'm reallly starting to hate this super fine pitch!!! any little pebble and ggggrrrrrrr there goes the pinion! grrrrrrrssssssssssss...there goes the spur.

luckily it didnt get that far...just lost the pinion...it got chewed to bits...

now I can hang with the big boys, but i cant control the dang car in the corners.. :( I adjusted my steering and it helped...and also added some creep. I think Im going to try that front ball diff from the tg10.


oh, one more thing, can i use NORMAL gear differentials? where and what part number is it? I dont like this ball adjusting constantly thing...one minute its right, and next qualifier its all loose and it just never ends...:P I just tightened mine all the way.

[Maddmaxx]

Aluma, I sent you a private message on the gears.

Short answer: Yes I think you can use the M6 gears instead of the M4 gears. No I don't think you can use the stock gear diff housing in the EVO transmission case (anyone who knows better, help us out here) and last, stick with the ball diff.

Try setting it tighter untill the wheels on that end of the car will not slip when turned in the same direction at the same time with the driveshaft locked. ie hold the gear on the shaft while turning the two wheels. That should be a good setting

[Aluma]

hey guys, i found a spur gear adaptor, dont know if it'll work but I'll give it a try soon. www.rc-cross.com in the japanese tb01 section.


maybe this will let us use kim, rrp, other spurs and pinions ! woohoo!!

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by Maddmaxx
.........Short answer: Yes I think you can use the M6 gears instead of the M4 gears. No I don't think you can use the stock gear diff housing in the EVO transmission case (anyone who knows better, help us out here) ...........
You can interchange gear diff housing between TB01 and the Evo. Don't forget to change the bevel gears too. My TB01 is all Evo in the gear boxes.

I found some info about universal spur gearing for the TB cars but, all as been in Japanese (and AltaVista - World - Translate don't help much).

http://www.iris.dti.ne.jp/~ta-ma/rc/tb01/tbgear.jpg

[Maddmaxx]

Nice adaptor, now if only it fits universal gears!!!

That gear ratio chart behind the gears is frightening. If we are in agreement that the 6.50 or so ratio (overall, pinion/spur times basic bevel/ring ratio) in the upper left corner where the 22 tooth pinion and the 55 tooth spur cross is good for stock motors then who can possibly run the higher ratios shown down and left from there?? Wow, I thought some of my gear suggestions were a little on the edge.

[PCC]

Yeah, what's up with Tamiya suggesting such tall gearing for their cars? On the TB01, if you run the .4 pitch gears, their lowest gearing suggested for the TB01 is a 6.73 (88T spur driven by a 34T pinion) which I consider a bit tall.

[Aluma]

i think because usually they come with stock RS540 motors and they need that 6.73 ratio to get speed.

[Aluma]

you guys sound like you know what you're talking about....maybe you can help me out.... I'm pretty new to R/C and I got a tamiya car.(flame suit on) anyway, its got red springs which are soft and comes with this orangy oil.... its too soft a setting (figured that out cuz the car sparks sometimes) I adjusted preload and helped but not enough. I got the tuned spring set and i'm thinking blue front and yellow rear(firm, medium) but I have no idea as to what oil to use. my LHS only carries associated...would you guys know what weight matches the blue and the yellow springs given all shocks use 2hole disks inside?


I once put 30 wt with the stock chrome springs and the car looked like a pogo stick...I DONT want that to happen during the race!

[creep]

Wow! Finally the TBO1 gets some respect. I bought the Raybrig kit and so far have added stabilizers, alum. suspension mounts, and the carbon fiber chassis kit. still to come are carbon fiber shock towers, alum. motor mount, alum. steering system, and probably better shocks. Has anyone got the universals for the front?

[ShinHed]

I can't wait to get a digital cam so, I can flex my TB01.:cool: Who are you ordering your shock towers from? I ordered a set from Penguin R/C and my Nsx body won't fit poperly with the front tower on. I have some Eagle front universals not in use. They were never raced with.

[Maddmaxx]

Nice paint, I know that transition stripe is a chore. Did you cut out the wing supports or is that paint in there?

[creep]

The wing mount has been cut out. AS for the shock mounts I was going to get them from Penguin. I know you can't use the front but I dont think you need towers in the front.

[PCC]

I had my LHS order the rear Penguin tower and they ordered both front and rear for me. I bought both but I installed the front tower in the rear and the rear tower is now sitting in a box downstairs. Anyone want it?

[creep]

How much?

[PCC]

Send me an email.

[kyla'sdad]

hi guys, i'm glad to see there are people interested in tamiya. i need some help. i just picked up a TB EVO and i need to know all the websites that i can get parts from. i'm going to use this car for racing so i need spares, gears, etc...please help!!

[ShinHed]

This is my #1 site for ordering Tb parts..

http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~hirofact/HOME.html

Once your payment is recieved, your item will be here in 5 days. No American Tamiya distributer can beat these prices.

You can get most gears (pinion, bevel, ring, spur) manuals, etc. from him. The Tb01 aluminum drive shaft is the same as The Evo, and the Long Suspension Arm set for the TB01 are the same TbEvo arms and hubs. Seriously, if you don't see a particluar item on his page, just e-mail him.

[tarheelquality]

I am running an EVO 2 on a fairly long parking lot track with a 10 turn mod. I was a little slow this weekend and was wondering if anyone had a good ballpark pinion and spur suggestion?I am not used to the .4 ratios are the close to 48 pitch or 64 and can a standard spur be used on the EVO 2?
Thanks

[Maddmaxx]

Well, I finally had to make more changes to the TB01 on road car. The very same tub chassis with cover that works so well as a rally car has too many drawbacks for on road touring. Having to remove 14 screws each time you want to clean and oil the motor is too much. Running the tub without the rally inner body also allows too much dirt to accumulate in and around the drivetrain.
Most useful mods so far.
1. Graphite chassis kit. (lighter, easier to maintain drive train parts and motor gets more airflow runs cooler)
2. Aluminium Motor mount (variable gear lash settings, motor runs cooler)
3. Alunium drive shaft and light weight gearsets at both ends of the car (stock in the NSX, option for other versions. Provides more acceleration due to the reduced rotational weight.)

Unfortunately these mods will drive the car up to GT1 class from GT2. For those who want the ultimate performance from the TB01 chassis, start with the EVO. My car will probably look a lot like an EVO when all done and it will cost a lot more to do it this way. I like this chassis though and I'm going to work my way through it piece by piece learning as I go.

Still sticking to the original plan. Tamiy parts only so the car is built to legal TCS rules.

[creep]

Has anyone ever tried putting TAO4 suspension on a TBO1? The arms look longer and might bring the width up around 200mm. If anyone has both cars give it a try and let us know.

[ShinHed]

The long Supension arm set contains the same arms which come with the Tb Evo and the Evo arms are compatible with the Ta04 arms.

[creep]

Are the Evo arms as long as the TAO4 arms?

[ShinHed]

They are the same length but, that does not mean you can just buy the new arms and expect everything else to fit .

I'll know for sure once I get my Evo some day but, no time soon. Anyone here have an Evo and '04? Aluma?

[ShinHed]

My car.

[ShinHed]

.

[creep]

I wasn't thinking about just the arms I meant all the suspension parts; upper and lower arms, hubs, axles, whatever. By the way, what brand are those aluminum parts? I see Integy makes some pretty cool looking parts like a puprle anodized motor mount, prop shaft, and steering rack with BBs. I want to get them but don't know how good they are. Does anyone have any Integy parts?

[ShinHed]

Integy's purple anodized parts are Eagle brand. Integy doesnt make them, they're just the distributer. All aluminum parts on my car are Tamiya brand except for the purple front hubs. My other Eagle products are front universals (not on this car anymore).

[jfc_tech]

Hi, I'm from the Land Below The Wind, North Borneo Malaysia. I have a TB01 Rally which i converted to be run for touring.

I have: a) Dyna Run Super touring motor
b) Dodge Stratus Protoform body
c) TA03 super low friction shocks set
d) LRP F1 Pro REverse

thinking of getting the TB01 Evo II when the money is enough. Willing to chat with anyone with this kit. contact me thru email.

[jfc_tech]

Hi, I'm from the Land Below The Wind, North Borneo Malaysia. I have a TB01 Rally which i converted to be run for touring.

I have: a) Dyna Run Super touring motor
b) Dodge Stratus Protoform body
c) TA03 super low friction shocks set
d) LRP F1 Pro REverse

thinking of getting the TB01 Evo II when the money is enough. Willing to chat with anyone with this kit. contact me thru email.

[tarheelquality]

Evo 2 is awesome!! I have one and the handling and quality is great! The motor is kind of a pain to change or adjust but that is the only thing I could possibly complain about. If you have the money buy one. Mine came off ebay with 2 bodies 4 sets of tires a mod and a stock motor and a battery pack for $200.00!! I snatched it up real quick!

[Maddmaxx]

Shinhead. Nice car! I have a question about the aluminium suspension mounts. Are they mounted in front of the trans case and behind, in other words are there 2 or 4 of them on the car. How much did they help the suspension pin slop. I have found that the suspension pin hole in the trans case is the largest source of slop in the chassis. I still need to tighten the suspension pins, the shock mounts and the tie rods to get the suspension settings to be something other than "an average position"

[ShinHed]

Maddmaxx,
They mount on the front of the trans cases (ones on the rear bumper area and one right behind the foam bumper area on the front). They absolutely eliminate all slop, because they come with their own special suspension shafts with a slot cut into them so that they are held in place with a grub screw. I put a little bit of glue in the hole of the mount before I put the grub screw in.

[Dj Kumara]

Is the TB EVO 2 cheaper than the TB EVO - I think it is here (New Zealand). Number 2 is $670NZ and the first one I think is over $800! Also I thought it was hard to get hold of, but it's readily avaliable here (http://www.hobbydirect.co.nz).

Welldone to Tamiya if it is cheaper.

[Maddmaxx]

Started on the long arm kit. Requires 12 x 6 bearings. Looks like TGR axles, with splines for hex hub. Kit will stretch suspension out to nearly 200mm. Has longer dogbones with a larger pin at the outboard end. Kit puts ball inserts into upper arm ends instead of shoulder washers. Longer steering arms on front with shorter tie rods. This is a very complete kit. I will report on overall width of car when complete. There are metal plates to hold the suspension pins but they are not as good as the aluminium suspension mounts on Shinheads car. The suspension pin fil is still a little sloppy.

[Maddmaxx]

I was wrong in the previous post, the dogbones are exactly the same length as the originals. The extra length is in the wheel axles. For those who have been discussing the suspension arms, the arm part # is 0115297 for each set of "M Parts". You will need 2 sets. These may work with the stock uprights, I'm not sure. To go beyond this point you should buy the long arm kit as everything else is new and different. Like I said before this could be a collection of parts from the TGR chassis. The axles are substantially beefier which requires that you obtain 8 12 by 6 mm bearings to complete the installation. The long arm kit comes with oilite bushings for these 8 parts. More info after the weekend when the installation is complete

[wyd]

I just bought the long arm setup for my TB01. Nice kit but for the price it would have been nice to get bearings instead of the bushings. I think it is overall a nice setup.

The question I have is will TA04 Pro caster blocks fit. I would like to use them since I can run the tie rod setup like the 04's do to stiffen up the front. I read I can use TA04 arms if I have the long arm kit. How can I get some extra dog bones? Do they sell them separate and if so any part numbers?

Thanks
Brian

[wyd]

MaddMaxx I use the stock TB01 chassis and I then use a graphite Tamiya toplate from their kit for the TB01. I then can remove all the plastic stuff that makes it so hard to get to the motor. I then used a Dremel and put a u shaped hole in the back of the tub so I can remove my pinions without pulling the motor or motor mount. I can change pinions in about a minute. I also put in a lightweight servo. My car weighs 3lbs 8oz and will be alot lighter with the new smaller servo, LRP Quantum, and removing those plastic plates that the plastic center brace connects to. I gainied just a little more chassis flex but not too bad at all. Car can still run in all the Tamiya GT1, GT2 and the new GT3 class.

[Maddmaxx]

The part number for the special dogbones that come in the long arm kit appears to be 9805733 "Drive shaft, 2 pcs." I don't know about the TA04 blocks. I agree with you that the extra rods (trailing links??) would help this chassis. I am more used to working with chassis where the problem is suspension arm fit that is too tight and work is required to free up the suspension. In Tamiya's case, the fit is more loose, the suspension works very well but some additional slop is the side effect. I guess that bushed suspension arms would be too expensive for the average kit. Actually, for the original rally intent for this chassis, the looser fit is probably better in the dirt.

[wyd]

Maddmaxx I just finished putting on the new long arm set. It has alot less slop than the stock setup. I also put on a tie rod setup like the 04 pro has to stiffen up the front. I did that and I now have almost zero slop and none front to back. It should work great and looks trick as well.

[jfc_tech]

I then used a Dremel and put a u shaped hole in the back of the tub so I can remove my pinions without pulling the motor or motor mount. I can change pinions in about a minute.

Interesting idea there wyd but i still can't figure or picture it in my mind how u did it????:confused: :confused:

If have a picture of the bottom of the chasis it will be helpful. Is it just above the square opening for the air to cool the motor???

thanks.
p/s i love the idea of using the TB01 graphite top plate only.

[jfc_tech]

I then used a Dremel and put a u shaped hole in the back of the tub so I can remove my pinions without pulling the motor or motor mount. I can change pinions in about a minute.

Interesting idea there wyd but i still can't figure or picture it in my mind how u did it????:confused: :confused:

If have a picture of the bottom of the chasis it will be helpful. Is it just above the square opening for the air to cool the motor???

thanks.
p/s i love the idea of using the TB01 graphite top plate only.

[wyd]

Well look at this way. If you need to slide your pinion off the back of the plastic tub stops you from pulling the pinion off the motor. You then have to take the motor out to change the pinion. You want to dremel enough room so that you can just pull the pinion off without hitting the plastic tub. It is very easy. If your pinion hits the back of the tub then Dremel more out until you can pull it straight off.

Hope that helps you a little better. If I had a digital camera I would just take a picture.

[Maddmaxx]

Your right wyd!!!!!!!!!!!
The long arm kit is great. The only slop left is between the stock plastic shock cap and its shoulder screw and I expect that to go away with the Aluminium shocks which will be one of the next options. The other option will be the aluminium steering kit to tighten that part up. Now for the next surprise. I have only completed the front end, but the car is now a true 190mm car without any of the fancy spacers or long axles that came stock on the NSX version of this chassis. I expected wider because I am used to the NSX setup but am plesently surprised at this. This chassis can now be legal in both TCS and ROAR.
This option is a valuable addition to those who are building up from the stock TB01.

wyd, how did you accomplish the tie rod thing?

[wyd]

I have a TB01 graphite toplate on my car with the plastic tub. I then took off those front and rear covers that go over the steering and the motor mount. In the front that left the screw holes open. I put a 4/40 ball end in on each side and then drilled out my caster block on the new wide arm kit. I tapped the whole 4/40 and put in short threaded ball ends. Then I just used short tie rods and Associated ball ends. I actually just bought 25mm blue Associated blue tie rods to use so it will look cooler. Man does it take the slop out from front to back on the front end.:D

[PCC]

Some pictures. Sorry, sideways!

[PCC]

Another:

[PCC]

I have more pictures but they are over the size limit.

[wyd]

Cool pictures. One day I will learn how to do that. I need to get a digital camera.

Are those Penguin graphite shock towers on your car? If TCS let me run them I would buy a set of them. They would give me alot more adjustments. I have on the stock plastic TB01 towers and at least they have 2 spots to move the shocks around to.

[PCC]

That's the Penguin front tower on the rear. The rear tower is much larger. The front tower didn't look right on the car on the front and I didn't need the extra positions anyway.

[Maddmaxx]

Somebody's been raiding the spare parts box...... I see HPI Pro 3 shocks, HPI Springs, HPI's very useful body mount post tops and even HPI X-pattern tires. Much as I want to keep my car TCS legal, the nearest TCS race to me in New England is in Quebec. I might raid the "box" also. So far I'm sticking with Tamiya parts to prove it can be done.

Thanks guys for the info on the Tie rod (trailing links?)

One other piece of info on the long arm kit. The front shocks want to be a little longer than the stock (on road NSX kit) shocks are. The easiest fix is to move the bottom shock mount to the inner hole on the arm.

[wyd]

When I put on the long arm kit I had to change my shocks spacers in all my shocks or it would have been too low.

You can make your car competitive with just Tamiya parts as mine is more than capable of keeping up with regular touring cars. My car is about 6 seconds slower than the stock class at our track but they run any body and foams. I run Tamiya rubber tires and Tamiya bodies and I'm still close. If I put on foams and a nice Stratus I will be as fast if not faster than the top guy. Plus my car will be 5 oz lighter with foams so I will gain faster lap times. :D

[Maddmaxx]

I didn't realize that foams were that much lighter. I'm finally down to ROAR weight except for the oz or so for the transponder, including 2400 batteries and tamiya rubber. I'm not a big fan of allowing foams. I've always believed that touring cars should be on rubber and pan cars can run foams.

Speaking of weight, has anyone ever weighed their batteries. There is up to 2 oz difference between different types of 6 cell packs. This could help or hurt, especially if you fail post race tech because you didn't check. Happened to me once.

Again, a weight question. Am I correct is reading the TCS rules to believe that there is NO WEIGHT LIMIT??

[Aluma]

HI EVERYONE!!! been quite a while...LOTS OF MODS to my TB2.

so far I've gottent :
tuned spring set (great investment)
front ball diff.(awesome investement)
48P spurs from TB01 (Best thing I ever did, no more crappy stripped gears :D)

XXL receiver and a tuned P2K.

My car is DIALED!!! oh yeah.... got first in my division(novice) :P

word of caution...even without the front one way, the car has TONS of steering!! I lent my car to one of the Pro 3 racer guys...he FREAKED! he could barely control it...too much steering LOL...he's all, "you need to trim the steering"(i have my radio to minimum steering) hehehe anyway...

I was reading some of the previous posts.... yes TA04 parts fit the TB2, BUT you gotta get different bearing for the hubs and reset the camber...the Carriers are from the TGX...so that's different. havent' had to replace anything so far... thank good ness. the arms are from the TB evolution...M parts also used by the TRF cars and TA04 i believe.


MOST AWESOME TIP: make a gear cover!! i did... bubble plastic from a screw box and piece of tape covering the hole under the pinion.(not the whole thing, just from motor mount back)
here's an OLD pic.
http://communities.msn.com/_Secure/0RAD***8YPlGLXYPNNYheyBc64Lx6WI!*itNAZ3*uq3gTuzIFO PNrpPa!MfVFRWFQcqhNuAzEYCCcYgLi9c0tsQnXfYaXmIZlbar UELWQPdo/Tb2chassis.jpg

[wyd]

Maddmaxx foams are alot lighter and alot faster than rubber tires. I like foams since they are faster and you don't need a bunch of different ones. You really only need purples and your dialed. With rubber tires you so many to choose and then a million more inserts so that means alot more money. I can get 4 to 5 weeks on a set of foams and they are still fast. Rubber tires generally run great for about 2 weeks or so and then they progressively get a little slower and lose traction. I guess it just depends on what you like.

[Maddmaxx]

WYD, I know your right about the foams and I shouldn't soapbox because this has been done to death but I've attended the death of many racing classis for the average guy because they got too fast. I'd be even happier if there were spec tires and batteries everywhere but there aren't, so no use crying.

Having said that, I will say that touring cars are probably the ultimate class for modification and self expression and the changeover to foams is just a natural evolution.

One of the reasons that I started this TB01 project is the limited parts base for the TCS legal car. (Tamiya only including tires) This is as near to a spec class with allowable owner mods as I can find. I would like to see racing somewhere between 1. Spec (run this tire, motor, battery, chassis, gear, built this way with the screws torqued this much) and 2. Open, where every few months we obsolete your tire, motor, battery, chassis and gears.

I'm going to have to build another car though, because in spite of the above ranting, I see on the other end of my workbench, a Stratus body, Other manufacturers wheels and tires and a small pile of non Tamiya stuff. Thery keep whispering "feed me"

[wyd]

MaddMaxx here is what I would do. I would still run only Tamiya TCS allowed hopups as they are as good as anything out their. Run any tires and bodies you want but have TCS legal stuff at home to use when you go to Tamiya races. That way you can run your car in anything you want.

That is what I will be doing with my TB01. I have that stock plastic tub with the TB01 graphite toplate. I then have the Tamiya Alum. shocks and the TB01 long arm kit (didn't run with this on yet), graphite shaft, diffs, and lightweight gear set that alum hinge pin holder in rear alum motor mount and Tamiya NSX body.

I will be getting alum. steering setup. I also made some front tie rod stiffeners like the 04 pros have. It takes almost all the slop out of the front end. It has almost none at this time.

With this setup on it is still TCS legal and if I chose I can put on a Stratus body and run any tires I want and run the regular stock class at our local track and be in the top 3 with a Tamiya car.

I do have alot of money in the car but it is all what you are into and I like to be a little different. You should see their faces when my TB01 plastic tub cars beats their TC3's, Yokes, and others. They just say damn thats a Tamiya car with a plastic tub!!!!!

If I ever get a digital camera I will post a picture of my car.

As for the tire thing....I do like both foams and rubber tires. I like foams better since we don't need so many different kinds to be fast. I know that they're a few known to be better rubber tires out their like Sorex, Take Offs, and Pits. I actually like my Tamiya type A's in the lower profile. If a track had a spec rubber tire or like only 3 kinds to chooose from that would be cool and would then run rubber tires more.

[Maddmaxx]

I agree, and that is exactly the way I intend to run this car. I'm getting to old to run the sanctioned events anyway so this is just for local fun. Sounds like my car and yours are just about identical except for the graphite lower chassis.
One thing that I will grant to the case for foams is that they do much less damage to the carpet at indoor facilities. Thats a good thing.
Lets get some more Tamiya shaft drive cars out there!!

[wyd]

MaddMaxx I only tried rubber tires on carpet one time. I don't think rubber tires have any business on carpet. They are not even close to as fast as foams can go on carpet.

I run mainly local tracks as well. I do run some other stuff as well. Going to run at a outdoor track in Maryland next Sunday. It is where they will be having a TCS race later this summer. I won mod their a few years ago at the TCS race. I ran a DJ TA03F.

I will get to see if my car is any better with the long arm kit on. I think it will be. I also can run any body at that track and any hopup.

They run 2 stock classes. One is the normal stock with any chassis, body, rubber tires, and any ROAR approved stock motor.

The 2nd one is tub chassis cars, Tamiya only with any hopup, body, rubber tires, and ROAR stock motor.

The main differance is the chassis setup between the two classes. The nice thing with my car again is since I run the tub chassis I can run either class at this track. I have alot more options running this car that if I run a standard touring car.

If I could run any after market part it would be the Penguin graphite shock towers. Other than that I would not buy any ohter aftermarket non Tamiya parts. I have on the stock plastic shocktower that has two holes to choose from. I have never run them as I had my shocks just running to where the tower is srewed into to (hope that makes since to you). My car was a TB01 ralley kit at first but I built it to run touring car classes and it came with those plastic towers, the regular TB01 setup for touring racing does not.:D

[ShinHed]

Anyone know a link in which I can buy Cross parts in the US?

[ShinHed]

I just want to take back a statement I made earlier in this board:

The TA04 hard arm set is not compatable with the TB01. I found this out while trying to build my own custom Tamiya parts bin creation. I guess I must now wait for the EVO 2 hard arm set. Does anyone know if this would work?

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/show0205/photo/nm_rc18.jpg

[lance_5346]

i just got my tb evo 2 today, and while building it, the alum. bulkheads looked just like the ones on my TRF414M, and they where.

which means that the evo 2 suspension is, or was only taken from the ta04/TRF414M.

one of my friends suggested that maybe if you can retrofit the ta04 gearcases to carry the tb01's gears, you could use the ta04's suspension. Because that's what tamiya did with the evo 2, they just put the tb01's gearcases between the TRF414M's alum. bulkheads. no special stuff. bear in mind that tamiya makes most of their stuff with just the same specs.

[ShinHed]

HA!

I tried retrofitting the TA04 gearcase for the TB01 but, it don't work at all. The TB01 drill holes are totally off but, that doesn't matter cuz, the ring gear won't fit. I'll just wait for the TB hard arm set.

BTW,
Atleast do the 414/Ta04 uprights fit on the EVO arms?

[Maddmaxx]

Cross is imported to the US by powers international www.powers-international.com and powers international uses Schumacher as a us distributor www.racing-cars.com

[wyd]

Even though Schumacher is a Distributer of Powers INT. they won't carry any Cross parts for the Tamiya cars.

[ShinHed]

I appreciate the help guys:)

[Maddmaxx]

New pics of the Roar body for my TB01. I know, I know, another Stratus but for Nascar Jr. its good.

[Maddmaxx]

And to prove that its a TB01

[TRF Drive Hard]

Sweet ride dude:cool: You get a 2-thumbs-up from Team Anime Racing:cool:

[Jimmy33]

Hi what is the actual width of the standard chassis? Also what do the double width black drive nuts which go behind the wheel do and why do I only have 2?

[creep]

If you have the on-road Raybrig kit they're just for bringing the rear wheels out to fill the wheel wells.(I think) Im sure it helps with handling too.

[Maddmaxx]

Some of the earlier NSX kits had 2 types of wheels. There are part numbers for rear wheels and others for front wheels. Tamiya likes to keep to a close scale appearance and since the real car has a wider rear than front, they provided rear wheels with 4mm offset and fronts with 2mm. The Raybrig kit has 4 of the same wheels (2mm offset) and thus the 2mm spacers for the rear wheels. You can use these spacers as you choose to widen the rear, front or both if you have extra's. Other brand wheels may not have an offset and will produce a much narrower setup. Using wheel offsets and or spacers is one of the many ways to set up your cars handling or appearance. HPI for example sells at least one of their wheel styles with and without offset. The parts list on the Tamiya indicates the offset of each wheel that they sell.

[Jimmy33]

My TB01 rally focus leans to the back on the suspention - the ride hight is jot constant any tips please

Also how do you raise the ride hight?

[fabolousRC]

jimmy...I notice that too on mine's...I think it's because the hub carrier is basically the toe-in type and I do not know if there is any other tamiya option parts that replaces the toe in rear carrier into a neutral rear carrier. Another thing that you can do, jimmy, is to get a custom coil over shock mount. The current plastic mount is very weak and if somebody can make you a widened version of that mount made out of thick FRP (I don't have the tools for this..otherwise I'll make them myself) about 5mm wider than stock mount on each side. Make two of them and you should be okay...make sure you adjust your tie-rods to compensate your ride and traction condition.

QUESTION to the experts:

I need to know the part number for TB-01 steering linkage on Towerhobbies. I tried to look on the Tamiya chassis page but could not find it. HELP?? I'm rebuilding a TB01 from chassis parts lot but the guy does not give me the steering linkage (and more). Also, I'm looking for the parts number on the steering servo mount.

[ShinHed]

When you say steering linkage, are you talking about the metal shaft that goes over the drive shaft connecting the servo to the steering device? If you are, the reason you can't find it at Tower is because, it came in the TB01 "B" metal parts bags with alot of other things. The parts number for 2 of them in a bag is TAM9805628. You can try looking on eBay (search titles and discriptions) for a 3x42mm threaded shaft and it probably will be cheaper than ordering from Tamiya.

When it comes to the servo stays, you can use 49196 Blue Short Aluminium Servo Stay and arrange it like in the picture below or you can buy the 2 seperate plastic parts trees the servo stays came on. The trees are "G" and "B".

[fabolousRC]

I'm sorry Shinhed. What I meant was the whole steering assembly. I found them at hobbypeople.net but they're out stock. It was the C1-C7 section. The funny thing is, I cannot find them in towerhobbies.com. It seemed to stock more part for (arrrgghh) MONSTER TRUCKS (maybe they knew that TXT-1 suspension linkage were so weak!!) and TA04s more than for our cars. I hope you can help with this.

[ShinHed]

Perhaps I could give you mine or you can ask Hiro (http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~hirofact/HOME.html) if he has it in stock.

Btw,

New TB parts have been realease...

53507 TB01 Reinforced Front One-Way Unit $33.00
53512 TB Evolution II/Long Suspension Kit Hard Suspension Arm $11.00

[fabolousRC]

Wow..two one-way diff in one package...how do you brake when you installed both of them in the same car? lolz

[Aluma]

TA04 stuff fits the TBevo 2.... and its probably better... I find that its a lot more stiff.(I broke a carrier and replaced the whole front suspension(except arms) with TA04 stuff! (Y)

as for Hiro, he only accepts postal money orders that can be cashed in Japan at a post office...at least thats what he told me a while back.

[Jimmy33]

man finnally going to be getting the body for my car - dam its going to looks good and kick some ass! :D :cool: :p

[TRF_EVO2]

well what do you guys think of this fantastic car???

[wyd]

I really like my EVO2. It works as good as any car I have raced. I just ran my new Protoform Stratus 2.0 and that body really made the car even better. It takes a little custom fitting on the wheel wells but it was worth the little extra time. Car was smooth and I ended up going 4 seconds faster than the last time with the same setup. The only differance was the body.

[Carlow]

Hey Aluma, How much did it cost for you to buy online and can you share what shop you bought it...thanks:p

[Carlow]

Hey guys, anybody saw the new TT01? How is it differ to the TB01?:confused:

[ShinHed]

It looks lighter but, that's all I know.

Question:

I purchased some Ta04 universals for my TB01 with long suspension arms kit and ran into a problem. The hubs on the LSA kit take 6x12mm bearings but, the Ta04 universals are for 5x11mm bearings and needlesss to say, it's too loose. If 5x12 mm bearings existed, this wouldnt be a problem. On the pack it says for Ta04, 414 and TB Evo 2 but, the LSA kit is Evo arms and hubs etc. What's wrong? Are TB Evo 1 and 2 hubs sizes different?

[Jimmy33]

The TT01 is part of tamiya's either expert built of ready to run new set of cars to join the TL01 to help people get into racing quicker or something like that!

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by fabolousRC
Wow..two one-way diff in one package...how do you brake when you installed both of them in the same car? lolz

Got new TB parts in the mail and I do notice a difference in handling. Now I have to do a more careful job applying my settings (mainly due to hard arms).:eek:

You don't get 2 one-ways in a pack just, 2 ring gears.

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by Carlow
Hey guys, anybody saw the new TT01? How is it differ to the TB01?:confused:

TT01 is a simpler and easier to deal with version of TB01. It was meant to be (like ShinHed said) the replacement for those old TL01 based XB series.

Most noticably missing from the TB01 chassis were those braces in the front, rear and middle of the chassis; Non-adjustable (now a ball cup) front and rear upper suspension arms; and the straight thru the middle main shaft (replaced by two couplings and a shorter main shaft for easier maintenance)

I also bet that all of the rollers are plastic bushing equipped (unless otherwise noted, that is usually what tamiya offers in basic cars) although I'm not sure what kind of ESC that they're going use. I saw on their Japanese website that the first offering of these TT01s are going to be the Mugen Integra Type R which going to be available in two colors: Metallic Blue and Championship White, and it's fully loaded with newly redesigned Adspec GT (it's design looks like JR Cobra/Airtronics MX3)

If Tamiya is going to sell the car at the same price as the current (very expensive) XB series prices, this car will make TC3 run for its money because the TT's cousin (or big brother whichever you want to call it) TB series has more family to interchange with than the TC3s and they are as cheap if not cheaper than TC3 parts especially if you have a bunch of TL and TG10 in your garage :P

Inconclusion, Tamiya made a smart move to reintroduce XB series with TB series based chassis. Don't you think?

[fabolousRC]

ShinHed:

what's the difference between those two ring gears? does that mean you can use both of them for front and rear gearbox to promote better reliability?

[ShinHed]

Well, you could if you wanted to. Its really included just a spare and they both have ball-diff holes in them if you wanted to use one with a ball-diff setup. They're also included in the lightweight gear package.

[wyd]

Does Tamiya or any other company make alum. rear hub carriers or alum. front caster blocks that fit the EVO2. I don't have problems with my stock ones but it would look trick to have.

Would TAO4 or 414M2 ones possible fit. I know my local shop has alum. ones for the TG10 and 04 ones in stock that I would look at.

[ShinHed]

Originally posted by x414x
For the front, it would work, the back would not.


For the front hub carrier you could but, Ta04 uprights are too wide to fit Evo arms.

[fabolousRC]

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/products/57715_16mugen/index.htm

I think they are still going to be XB alongside XB pro. The reason i said that was this. There is a beginner who just want to have fun and there is a beginner with a purpose. The one who just want to have fun doesn't care much about the car as long as it looks good. The one who want to advance wants a car that's upgradeable. I believe Tamiya heard all the complains about the TL01 and moved everything to TT01 which is a simpler version of TB01 as you can see from the pictures, Tamiya have cut down half of the tub and all the braces (which means lighter weight too) to provide an easier access to all the electronics. I just wonder how much does this chassis will flex compare to the TB01? Then if you think about all the options available for the TB01 that can fit with this TT01, wouldn't it be a better platform to compete in the TCS series? Think about it...aluminum motor mounts (plus the easier access to change the pinion and gear ratio)..aluminum steering setup...carbon top brace (yummm)..plus the way that Tamiya setup the new center driveshaft will promote shorter and A LOT :D stronger material (the carbon fiber won't break this time) meaning a lot less power wasted to the front wheels (shorter, stronger material are less prone to vibration)

[Aluma]

Originally posted by Carlow
Hey Aluma, How much did it cost for you to buy online and can you share what shop you bought it...thanks:p

I bought by Evo 2 at rcmodel.com.hk several months ago for 250 bucks...with shipping... $286.

But, I've added

front ball diff $47 front aluminumhubs for TA04 $20

front TA04 racing carrier set $17 tamiya spring set $15

gear cover (I made it from scrap plastic) and TB01 spurs($8)

XXL receiver, quantum ESC and P2K tuned motor with 55/22 ratio.

2400's....i just wish I was a better driver :D practice practice :D

car flies!! OH, maybe you guys might know....I run on takeoff32R's and the car is squirrely, but switch to HPI27R's and it runs on rails...
What's going on? is there THAT much of a difference in tires?

[TRF_EVO2]

hi guys
what is a good pinion and spur to use for a mod motor?
the car im using is a TB EVOLUTION 2

all help is appreciated

[ShinHed]

When you have technical questions, go to these forums..

LINK (http://www.rctech.net/forum/index.php)

[Carlow]

Hey you Guys :cool: , thanks for all the info, can you help me decide what to buy? Between a TA04R or a TB01 evo :confused:

[Archerboi]

Does anyone think that the new TT-01 can be a cool rally car? I would like to get one for the fall and winter time. How about the ride height? Can it be lifted?

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by Archerboi
Does anyone think that the new TT-01 can be a cool rally car? I would like to get one for the fall and winter time. How about the ride height? Can it be lifted?

Nope..the tub's sidewall is too low which will get you some road grimes plus moistures into the chassis. Best bet...Tb01 hands down.

If you happen to come across some guys who converted their TB01s into pure touring car ask them if you can have their chassis..I think they're interchangable with TT01 although I'm not sure.

[Archerboi]

I can get the TB01 with the Lancer 7 body, this is just something to mess around with in the dirt and gravel. While my TC-3 is for the street and asphalt.

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by Archerboi
I can get the TB01 with the Lancer 7 body, this is just something to mess around with in the dirt and gravel. While my TC-3 is for the street and asphalt.

I don't get it??? :confused: :confused: :confused:

[Archerboi]

What I meant was to run my TC-3 on the street, and if I do decided to get the Lancer VII TB-01, to use that to run in the dirt, loose gravel, that sort of surface while the TC-3 will be ran on smooth surfaces.

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by Archerboi
What I meant was to run my TC-3 on the street, and if I do decided to get the Lancer VII TB-01, to use that to run in the dirt, loose gravel, that sort of surface while the TC-3 will be ran on smooth surfaces.

Lolz...the part that I don't understand is that what those car got to do with TT01? Do you now know where I got confused?

[Archerboi]

Well you had said that the TB01 was better for the dirt rather than the TT01 that I had asked about. So I had decided to get the TB01 since that would be better for the dirt, rocks and stuff.

[PCC]

I thought I would just post that I sold my TB01 (fully hopped up and stuff) so I won't be posting here any more. FabulousRC, hope you like your new toy...

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by PCC
I thought I would just post that I sold my TB01 (fully hopped up and stuff) so I won't be posting here any more. FabulousRC, hope you like your new toy...

PCC sir...my new toy got banged pretty bad...dawgedawg slammed me pretty hard that i lost a wheel at first (and the hex nut...but that's easy to fix..my Kyosho/beagle hex nut has the same thickness as the one that got away)...then at the first heat it was hit pretty hard and broke the rear left suspension mount :( :( :( Thank God I own several Tb01s!!! The steering was really sloppy and the ball nut kept popping off all the time. The front carbon fiber bumper holder: GONE...broken off...sayonara. One of the reason why the steering was sloppy could be blamed on my tires too..I need a flat tire not a round one...plus..last but not least a 200 mm body!! my imp just wouldn't cut it :( :( *sigh*

Keep ya'll posted on the next race

[PCC]

Yes, you need better tires but a 190mm body fits just fine. I'd suggest the Pro-Line Dodge Stratus 2 body.

[ShinHed]

Anyone with the TB hard arms? How well is your TB handling?

[hpislammer]

Hello.

Need your help. I´m able to get a TB01 Evo1 for about 225 bucks. Its the complete kit and i´m wondering whether the aluminium motor mount is included in the kid or whether its the plastic motor mount. Please tell me about that. BTW please dont mind my bad english. I´m from Germany. Thanks a lot.

Andy

[tarheelquality]

I am preety sure the Evo 1 comes with the aluminum, I know my Evo 2 did.

[metrikrc]

The evo1 does come with the aluminum motor mount. The one that is available as an upgrade for tb01 is actually better though. The evo motor mount uses 2 slots for motor screws, and its very hard to line up the motor hole with the bottem slot. The upgrade unit for tb01 has a hole for the bottem motor screw, and its much easier to use. Here is a pic of my super hopped up 01, and my evo. Hoping to get an evoII and tg10r soon.

[ShinHed]

metrikrc:

Which one performs better?

[metrikrc]

Until recently, I couldnt get the evo dialed in at all. It has a stiffer chassis and is much more sensitive to set up. I couldnt balance front to rear traction on it and it was a mess. Well, at the last race, I got some really great set up help, and now the evo is really on rails. The 01 is slightly more flexible, and so is a bit less sensitive about having the set up slightly off from ideal, so I had it roughly in the ballpark, and it was working well. I think the evo deffinately has more potential though. The 01 is slightly lighter as well, and Im sure that in stock class, it is slightly quicker off the line and out of corners than the evo given equal motors and equipment. With a mod motor, both are super quick, and the evo models precision really comes into play. The evo is more stable, and consistant on track with a mod motor. Both are really great race cars, but I give the overall nod to the evo by a small margin. I will end up posting faster lap times with it.

[hpislammer]

Thanks for your answer. How well does the evo run right out of the box? How low is the noise level? How easy does it run (meaning rolling resistance)? I´ve performed rc car racing several years ago and went on formula 1 cars. Do you think the evo is a car for a comeback? So many questions. But I think it should be well planned.

[metrikrc]

Built as stock the evo runs superbly. I tried it with a front ball diff, and didnt like it at all. I switched back to the 1 way front diff, and it is much better. As for rolling resistance, it runs with less friction than any belt car I have ever messed with. With the motor pinion taken off, it will coast as though there were no transmission. However,, the tb01 tg10 gearboxes are even better. It seems the tg10 gearboxes are built with ever slightly more clearance for the gear mesh because it is even more efficient than the evo with tgr gearboxes. This is just a guess about the gear clearance, I havent actually measured it! I have switched gears between both cars and the result is the same. The tb01/tg10 gearboxes roll longer and easier. This may be why the 01 is quicker with a stock motor as well. The evo is such a stiff platform that is is very sensitive to proper set up. If you are comfortable with a car that slides its tail easily, then the evo is great for a comeback. Im not sure if the evoII is any better at keeping the rear in check. Its not really a problem if you can tune it to behave and if you like to drive that way. I have had great success with my hoped up 01, and have just recently begun to understand the evo,, so time will tell if it really is much superior to the 01. If you prefer a slightly more forgiving chassis, the tb01 with carbon chassis is excellent. Its expencive to build up, but it is super fast, quick, and only slightly softer than an evo chassis. If I were going to run stock and mod, I would deffinately keep the 01 for stock, and use the evo for mod. Both cars are very quiet with the .4 gears, and only slightly louder with the .6 gears. The only car I have seen that is quieter is the xxxs.

[Aluma]

well, you're half right about the evo2... its very sensitive to setup...but it doesnt necessarily oversteer. At first, when setup with included instructions...it will oversteer. Now...i've changed many things and now I understeer. I believe the culprit to be the droop setting. I've changed springs from hard to soft, rear and front with no change in oversteer/understeer. I've added camber and decreased it with no change in handling either...I've even tightened and loosened the diffs with no change. I have also changed caster and antidive with no noticeble effects. BUT I did notice that more droop makes it oversteer...less droop understeer. I think that is why only the red springs were included and not the yellows like in the 04R. For somereason, i think tamiya new this to be the best spring setup for the car.
aswell, when droop is added, the shock is compressed giving a harder setting. Kinda weird huh?:confused:

[tarheelquality]

Hey guys,
I am selling my Evo II and thought I would let people here know first. Asking $200 with lots of tires including new foams in package and ferrari body. pm me if interested. I will put it on Ebay later this week.

[metrikrc]

My experience comes from the evo and 01, I havent messed at all with an evoII. I can make dramatic changes with changing springs and camber. Currently running blue in front and pink in back, with very little droop. Mine oversteers off power and pushes on power. Thinking of changing to yellows up front with increased preload, and then use less droop in rear to allow the rear end to stay in contact with the ground when I slam on the brakes and the nose goes down. Actually, I may switch back to duall ball diffs and then completely change my suspention settings. A pro racer recently visited our race this weekend and his driving was amazing. Dual ball diffs in his tc3, and he could brake with full control, then power the car through the corners. With a 1 way, I am lightly