Associated RC10B3 Forum v1.0

[2nd Gear]

obi is right I'd start off with 22 86 too if I was you but like he said you might have some tinkering to do.I ran my new kinwald the other day and our track wasnt favoring to b3's because of how bumpy it is.I never got 11 laps til the first race with my new buggy.If i raced on a track that is smooth then the FTB3 would be my choice.It has more speed and is more nimble the kinwald is slow but more stable on the real bumpy stuff.Which I could never set the b3 up for this and I tried every combo of weight and springs.I miss her but I just have to wait til the b4 comes out.Then I can really make a final choice.Beings the track i run on is so bumpy.:confused:

[hill350]

I just bought an B3 Team Buggy Updated from tower along with p2k2 and have a novak explorer II on order. Im looking at Airtronics Blazer Sport AM Radio System. Does anyone know if they are any good. ALso does anyone know what size spur came with thier kits if any did. And is it also 48p? Im new to AE, but not to RC. I have had a fully hoped up bandit for alittle while. WHich got me into RC, but now I what to be able to compete since my driving skills have improved. SO any suggestions or guidance on building the kit would be helpful.

[2nd Gear]

86 tooth spur 48p.If i was you put on a 26 tooth pinion on that p2k2 and watch her fly!!!!!!!!!!:D

[Obi112]

The kit goes together like a dream, in large part because of the wonderful instructions Associated has put together. I don't think you'll have any problems at all with it, but if you do, you know where to come :D

[aeb3man_44]

a 26 pinion fits on kinda tight with a 81 spur 2nd gear

[2nd Gear]

man I had a brain far t I mean a 81 tooth spur with a 26 tooth pinion.I used this week ater week.You have to make sure you get the motor mounting screws in the right holes.:D

[Fafnir]

Hill350 I don't remember if this was in the instructions or not, but when building your B3 make sure you add a little black grease to your servo saver (I am guessing you are not using a metal gear servo) it will really help prevent stripping out servo gears.

just make sure you periodically take it apart and clean any dirt that has gotten in to it.


Chad

[hill350]

DOne, the kit went together with no problems. Just one thing though the front springs seem short even with a 1/4" preload spacer. All that is left to do is install the electronics and paint the body. Never had to before. I know now to use regular spray paint. I didn't order any from tower. SO can one just picj up something from the model section at walmart?

[2nd Gear]

you need paint for lexan.It smells like finger nail polish.BUT if you do use the model car paint remember to spray the inside of the body!!!To many people Ive seen over the years paint the outside of the body.:rolleyes:

[Obi112]

The kind you need is Polycarbonate paint. If your going with spray cans, Pactra is an excellent choice. Most likely, they won't have it at a Wal-Mart, though you can always try. Your best bet is a hobby store. I get mine from an Allied Hobbies (a fairly bid chain), and they don't have much R/C stuff. So, check around and you should be able to find it. (Tamiya also makes paint for lexan bodies).

As for the springs, they are fine. Once the car has batteries and such in it, there will be no gap (an in fact, some compression in the spring).

[phcky]

anybody hear news about a new buggy from associated? i want to buy a B3, but they've been out for so long, and if they are going to come ot with a B4 or something i'll wait and buy that. anybody heard rumors?

[mtn bkr]

Hey guys. I've just recently joined the B3 club. I bought a used XX and traded it to my brother for his B3. I think that I definitely came out ahead in that one. Here's my setup:

Lunsford Ti Turnbuckles
MIP CVDs
JR XR3 radio
JR Z4750 servo
Novak Cyclone
Novak XXL receiver
P2K Pro

I haven't heard anything about a new Associated buggy yet. The owner of the track I race at is sponsored by Associated. I'll keep my eyes open to see if there's any changes from the B3 that he drives.

[Austin GT]

This is our club track recently reconstructed.This is Paul Tibido's mod B-3 taking a huge triple,(and flying over that marshalls head)the jump is to the left just off screen.Sometimes when this guy races and wins they say ''It's the Paul Tibido Show" because he races and wins in more than 1 class.great racing Paul!

[aeb3man_44]

obi are you going to that hobby show this weekend? i am
if so how about i meet you at a certain time?

[Obi112]

mtn bkr: Awesome setup, well worth the XX to get it.

Austin: Nice track, that car has some huge air.

b3man: Not sure yet. I've gone the past three years, and hope to go again, but I don't know yet. I have to work Saturday, and won't find out if I am working Sunday until I go in on Saturday. Plus, since I don't have a car (or a license), my dad will also have to be free and willing to waste a couple of hours at the show.

[phcky]

mtn bkr-
what do you think of your JR radio? I was thinking of getting one, it's the least expensive computer radio out there. what are some of it's features?

[mtn bkr]

phcky,
I like the radio a lot so far. The features I like the best are that it's an FM and has a 3 model memory. It's nice having just one radio to use for both my T3 and B3. I haven't really taken much time to really learn the functions that it has. It seems like some of the functions would be more advantageous to gas powered vehicles.

[CougarTL01]

Well... I've had my Factory Team B3 since around Christmas time (got a great deal on it), and I just found this forum. So, I thought, "Maybe I should let you guys know about my upcoming 'Jump of Death'." Basically, it's a 25 foot drop, into a large field, off of a 3 foot launch ramp. The car should be doing 30-35mph when it hits the ramp, and I'm expecting at least 30-35ft. high off the field. I don't know what's going to break, but it should be entertaining. I was going to use my Evader ST for this, but it decided it couldn't handle a small jump, and wasted the diff. So, what do you guys think about my little stunt? I'm planning it for tomorrow, but if the rain doesn't let up, I might have to wait until Saturday. We'll see...

BTW, Here's my B3 (better pics to come):

http://members.aol.com/bigsteve1031/B3deck.jpg

[Obi112]

Sounds like it will be fun. Try and take a picture or two of it in the air (obviously, someone would have to do this for you, unless you have a couple extra hands). Something will most likely break, but as long as you don't mess up the landing it will probably only be minimal. Update us when your finished.

[DLF]

Is anyone using the new rear shock tower for the B3? It says it's low profile for the Proline body but from the pic, I can't see that it looks any different.

Dana F

[CougarTL01]

Originally posted by Obi112
Sounds like it will be fun. Try and take a picture or two of it in the air (obviously, someone would have to do this for you, unless you have a couple extra hands). Something will most likely break, but as long as you don't mess up the landing it will probably only be minimal. Update us when your finished.

Well... you wanted an update, and I've only got two words: MAAAAD AIR! It was at LEAST 35ft. off the bottom of the hill. I ended up breaking a rear right castor block, bending the aluminum rear plate, and bending a CVD. It kind of landed on the rear right wheel. But, it was worth it. I got some pics of the ramp, looking down the hill, and got a pic of the car going through the air from the bottom of the hill (although I don't know how they're going to turn out). I'm going back with my Evader ST, and a 13T Speed Gem, possibly with 8 cells hooked to it. Should be insane...

[RichieRich]

What is it with guys jumping stuff to get mad air and break things? I'm not trying to flame, just trying to understand. Someone please explain?

[phcky]

why get mad air? i don't know, my friend has an ironman and he is afraid to jump off of a pitcher's mound with it, but i like sending my 1/24 off of skateboard ramps... it's a good excuse to replace the broken parts with upgrades:D

[DLF]

So onone knows anything about the new rear shock tower?

Dana F

[Obi112]

You won't notice much of a difference when switching to the new "lower profile" shock tower. It is slightly lower, and is required to use the newer Pro-line body. It is not an absolutely necessary upgrade, but I got it as part of the Worlds' upgrade (wider wheels, new shock tower, and a new body).

[adam lancia]

are both the front and rear wheels wider on the worlds edition? thanks,

adam

[DLF]

Have another question concerning the B3 slipper. Now, I'm an old dog racer who once raced the old tub RC10 with the first Stealth tranny, so bear with me. :D

I've found that the B3 input shaft is not long enough. The reason I say this is because if you're running on a fairly high traction track, by the time you loosen the slipper nut to get it to slip, the lock nut is so far down the shaft that the nylon will not the lock the nut. On the old RC10 this was not the case. We always wanted the slipper to slip a few feet no matter how good that traction of the track was. I can't seem to do this with the B3.

Has anyone ran into this and/or found a fix? I thought of possibly shaving the large brass washer sown to allow for more threads on the shaft, but I'm not sure if there would be an adverse effects of this.

Dana F

[Obi112]

Originally posted by adam lancia
are both the front and rear wheels wider on the worlds edition? thanks,

adam

Yes, sir. The wider wheels stretch out the tire and allow for more surface area to contact the ground, which equals more traction.

[Obi112]

Originally posted by DLF
I've found that the B3 input shaft is not long enough.

Has anyone ran into this and/or found a fix? I thought of possibly shaving the large brass washer sown to allow for more threads on the shaft, but I'm not sure if there would be an adverse effects of this.

Hmmm, I haven't run into this problem, Dana. I do understand the concern there, but I run with my slipper clutch tighter than recommended (tightened until the end of the nut is flush with the input shaft). Some suggestions (just stuff I thought of off the top of my head, so no guarantees):
- Switch to a nylon locknut, so you'll have more material for the shaft to grip (not sure how it would hold up)
- Trim the spring. I am not sure how this will have any adverse effects, but you might want to try it. Just take off one coil or so. Physically, it probably won't be able to put as much pressure on the slipper as it could before, but you won't have it locked down anyway.

[DLF]

Good thoughts. Those too are options.

However, just did a small bit of research. Turns out that the input shaft for the first version of the stealth tranny has the same part number as the shaft on my B3: 6571. Now, I do know that the old stealth tranny also had no bushings on the slipper. Instead, it used one regular ball bearing and one thrust ball bearing. I had asked AE about why they got rid of the ball bearings and the answer was adjustment related. While the ball bearings were smoother, they said the bushings allowed the slipper to hold it's setting better.

I'm wondering, since the shafts are the same, if this is why the shaft seems shorter on the B3. If so, there shouldn't be any reason why I couldn't shave the bushings down.

In any case, I've emailed AE with this question. I'll let you know what the response is.

Dana F

[mtn bkr]

I need a little bit of tuning help. The buggy handles pretty well except it has quite a bit of on-power push. I tried moving the pack forward and lowering the front a bit, but all that did was help with the off-power steering. I went to the Associated site and moved the bottom front shock mounting point to the inside of the arm because they said it'd increase steering. Any other tips? I'll probably be racing the thing again this Friday and would like to get the thing dialed in a little more.

[DLF]

Yea, I think the B3 is famous for that. As strange as it sounds, I've put spiked tires on the front of mine and found some improvment. Myself and some team mates have taken Losi step pins and split and reguled the tire to fit the Associated front wheels. Works quite well.

Dana F

[adam lancia]

mtn bkr,

have you tried limiting the up travel on the front shocks by putting spacers inside the shock bodies under the piston?? this is what always seems to help me when i have a lack of on power steering. i think the 25 degree caster blocks help here as well but i'm not sure cause i haven't used them yet. hope this helps,

adam

[CougarTL01]

hey guys... I just ran into a problem with my B3. I was replacing the left outdrive, because it was a little beat up (through no fault of my own... yeah... that's it. ;) ), and I just messed up the nylon "T" nut that holds it together. The one that the thrust bolt screws into. As I was tightening it, the little ends that go in the slots of the outdrive folded up, and the whole thing went into the outdrive, and now it just spins uselessly. So... I drove 35 min. to the "Local" hobby shop (the one around the corner doesn't even carry servo tape, let alone the parts I need). Well, I came back, and did it again! Something tells me that it's not my fault... I seem to remember a spring in there somewhere when the guy was looking up the part in the diagram. Anybody know the answer to this?

[DLF]

Yep, there's a spring which drops into the outdrive before you drop in the t-nut. Look in the old outdrive. Usually it gets stuck and you have to help it out of the outdrive.

Dana F

[CougarTL01]

Cool... thanks. I lost the manual for my B3, so I didn't have a chance to check. I figured I should know these things by now, but you know how it is... Much appreciated. :)

[SlickThunda]

Well, I'm new to RC Cars and I'm almost finished with my Team Kit B3. Theres just a few questions I need to ask; I was planning on buying a Team Orion Core Modified Motor, and the Mechanical Speed control you get in the B3 sports kit. Would the Core motor work well with the B3? and what type of pinion gear should I get?

C ya lata, Thunda:cool:

[phcky]

Cougar- Associated has a PDF of the manual on their web site (RC10.com) that you can print out. I almost lost mine once, printed out another one, and then found the origional.

[adam lancia]

thunda,

how many turns is the orion motor?? are you sure that the mechanical speed control will handle it?? depending on the turns of the motor, your manual had a section that will tell you what pinion you should use. hope this helps,

adam

[SlickThunda]

After talking to a few friends I decided to buy the Stock Instead, and if I the mechanical sc can't handle it(its a 27t) are there any esc's you would recomend?

Thunda

[hill350]

For a 27t motor I got a p2k2 and it is awsome along with it i got a novak expolorer II ESC. FOr pinion I got a 25teeth to go with the 81 spur. Seems to be running great.

[Obi112]

The Explorer II Sport is the best ESC in its price range. If your going to buy an ESC, do yourself a favor and pick up a Novak.
And I'd go with a 24 tooth pinion.

[phcky]

my expirence has showed that a good, clean MSC will handle anything. I threw a 9t speed gem into a tamiya baja champ and it worked for three runs before burning out. I realized the speed controler was corroded and otherwise covered with junk- dirt, grass clippings, you name it. I had a spare and decided to try it out, and it worked great! I kept it clean and put a little flux on it every 7 or 8 runs, and it works great around 100 runs later. It's a tamiya rotary type with external resistor, about 13 bucks. not proportional, but stands up to anything

[adam lancia]

that's impressive!! i didn't think those little buggers would be able to handle all that juice. i guess simple still works really well. cool stuff,

adam:)

[RichieRich]

Those Tamiya MSCs are pretty solid. The only thing to watch out for is that if you use the slow and medium speed alot, the resistors will become fairly hot. When they get hot, they become brittle and can break. So, try to keep the speed at full throttle. When at full, the resistors are bypassed.

[Toyman]

HI EVERYONE what brushes for a reedy Ti 12 turn double and what pinion should i use as a start point? What shock springs and oil is everyone here using. I need advice from someone that knows the B3 well on a race track. please i need technical setup. he he he we all want that edge !!!!!!

[phcky]

judging how long nobody has replied for, i think it's safe to say nobody knows

[SlickThunda]

Right now I am kneeling on the floor infront of my computer because my dog beat me to the chair(-.-). I have a question to all of you people out there who have been racing RC for many years before I was born, where the hell can I get an original RC10 kit!? I've looked everyone from my LHS to ebay, but I can't find one anywhere. I really want one for not only the collectors value, but I want to see how it would do against my B3. Now that my dog and I have reached an understanding(she let me sit at the very, very edge of the chair) I will leave you all as I depart once again on my quest.

[adam lancia]

try posting in the wanted section of this web site. there a lot of people out there with a ton of stuff. i know that jeepinator and Steve P. have a ton of old stuff too. they usually have a good idea of where to look for older stuff. hope this helps,

adam

[RichieRich]

About the only place you'll find an original RC10 is on ebay. It's probably still possible to find one at an out-of-the-way hobby shop. You'll pay a hefty premium if you want one NIB.

[LEADFOOT]

There is an original RC10 thread just like this one. Read the last post. A NIB kit will cost big bucks.


Toyman,

goto RC10.com and look for setup sheets there. I run #1 pistons, green springs, 30wt, shocks in the middle up top and outside on bottom. Fairly generic all-around setup.

[SlickThunda]

Guess what! I've got the money for my motor and ESC, and decided to get a Duratrax Spike ESC and a Reedy MVP Motor(27t). Any one got any suggestions on what type of pinion gear I should get?

[SlickThunda]

:mad: Is anyone here even gonna answer my question?

[mtn bkr]

For a pinion gear, start out with a 22 or a 23. I run a 22 tooth pinion in my B3 which is equipped with a P2K Pro. You may even go with a 24, although I really would try the 22 or 23 first. What type of track are you driving it on?

[XXXER]

What up guys? I do not think that I have posted in here yet, but I have owned a FTB3 for about a month and a half. I like it so far, but I cannot judge whether the XXX is better.

The whole motor/pinion thing? If you will be racing on a track, ask aroudn, see waht others are running. If you are going to be doing speed runs out in your street, something like a 23-24 might be more suitable. With a tight track like the one I race at, I usually go from 20-21 teeth, wtih an 81 tooth spur. My motors include the P2K2, and Peak Hellfire. The Hellfire is ballistic! Up until the last 30 seconds or so, it gets blistering hot. I am working on seeing what I can do to make it run cooler, but it is very powerful for sure! My P2K2 is very consistent, so I choose that motor when the track is a litlte more "Sweeping".

My setup is very good, it has a pretty good amount of damping up front, to prevent from doing a serious donut into the sweeper off the straight.
35/1 front Blue springs
30/2 rear Silver springs
Inner hole on teh front arm, middle up top. outer hole on the camber location, kingpins in the middle. 25 degree caster blocks

hub carriers have all washers behind them. Shock mount, outer on the arm, 2nd out on the tower. Camber: middle on the bulkhead, outer on the carrier.


This set-up works pretty well for me. it is a lot more steering than I am used to so it does me very well. I have a lot of steering exiting corners, and a good amount when entering, but that is mostly how you enter the corner.

[Justo]

G'day! I am the very proud owner of a new Team B3! This is a special occasion for me because my first "pro" RC car (VERY first was a Hornet), was an original RC10 Team Buggy. Now, for my latest car (11th in 13 years, 6th over the past year alone!), I decided to go back to what got me into this hobby, offroad buggies!

I decided against the FT kit, because it's too expensive here in Oz, they didn't have one in stock anyway, and, I couldn't see any performance increase from the FT parts.

I will be getting the FT blue Ti turnbuckles firstly. Should I keep the stock ball ends?

I am currently running a Team Orion Chrome Stock RS Dyno'd motor with a (rather heavy?) kyosho 24T pinion, and an LRP Quantum competion ESC. Boy this thing flies! I don't remember my original RC10 going this quick without a 14turn in it!?

I want to get a mod motor for it. I only have one mod motor, but it's a really expensive LRP 8x3, and I don't think I should put it in. So, I want to get something around a 10 or 11turn. Can anyone suggest a good motor?

[Obi112]

Been a while since I visted this thread.

Congrats on your purchase, Justo. There really are no performance benefits to the Factory Team version. It is a bit lighter and stronger, but it will not be the difference between the A- and B-Mains... a good driver can win with either.

Ti turnbuckles are a very good upgrade. I haven't bought a set yet, mainly because I am cheap and have had no problems with the stock steel 'buckles. As for the ball ends, it is up to you. A nice set from RPM would give you added security plus they would add a little color. But if there is no slop, a new set is not necessary.

As for the mod motor, there are a million good choices out there. You didn't really specify a price range, so I am going to point you to the Reedy Sonic because of its large comm. But also take a look of Trinity's motors and the rest of the Reedy line.

[centextom]

Ive got 2 FT B3s and the cvds dont seem to go into the outdrives very far, and I was a little worried about that, but they seemed to run fine until tonight. I was just playing around in the yard, and snap! It finally happened, the cvd took a small chunk out of the outdrive and the bone fell out! Does Associated make a longer outdrive or am I always going to have this problem?

[RichieRich]

Justo - Welcome. I have a team B3 too. I purchased cars at about the same rate as you. How long have you been R/C-ing?

Obi112 - You need the Ti. When I replaced my 'buckles with the Lunsford ones, I knew I had one bent stock turnbuckle. After I removed them all and inspected them, all were slightly bent except for 2!! :eek:

centextom - All CVDs for the B3 seem to just barely fit in. I wish they could be about 1/16 in longer. Make sure you have your rear shock length set up correctly so they don't let the suspension droop too far and cause the CVD to eat outdrive.

[XXXER]

Centex, I know a good amount of people who buy replacement bones for the XXX buggy, and use them in the AE car. You need to shim the stub axle differently though(I cannot remember if it is all the way in or out). Either way, when doing this, you can run longer down-travel, and make the car fly more level, and predictable.

Justo: I would suggest the stock ball cups. Those RPM ones suck! They are a softer plastic, and they will bend, making your car handle funny. I would rather not hit anything, and run the stockers. I suggest you get the RPM gear cover though. I ditched the stock Lexan cover ASAP, and went with a black one. you may consider getting plastic actually: though it is plain, it gives it a much cleaner/professional look IMO. Also, get the rear bumper, it helps prolong the life of your rear skidplate, and it protects the endbell of your motor from rear-end collisions.

If anyone else has anything new to add, I would love to read it! I am still learning this buggy, and recently(last week) put my XXX together wtih some electrics from my Micro RS4, and let a friend race it. I took it around for a few laps, and the thing was DIALED. I need to keep a reason for not running my old buggy! ;)

Catch you later.

-Steve

[Justo]

RichieRich - Hi. As I mentioned before, I've been RC'ing for about 13 years. I took a bit of time off around the middle. But over the past year I have gone a bit crazy crazy....

XXXER - Yeah, I want to get front and rear bumpers but I'm not sure if any of my LHS can get them.

Obi112 - I don't really have a price limit as to what motor I get. However, living here in Perth, Western Australia, I have a very limited choice of motors.

I don't race my cars, only bash. I want to make this buggy a very competent basher with good looks. Basically, I want it to be blue.

Does anyone know if the blue wheels off the Losi XXX Kinwald buggy would fit on a B3?

[LouisB]

I bought a FTB3 about a month ago and I really need some set-up help (I used to race a traxxas Rustler in the modified truck class but gave up after my first full 10 race championship because I TQ'd and won every race and I found it too easy to drive)
I race on a track in the UK, it's a BMX track that my club has taken over. It can get very dusty and there is very little grip when it's like this. There are quite a few LARGE jumps, a set of doubles, table top etc and there are about 2 or 3 40' straights.
I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on how to change the set-up to make the car better on rough tracks because it seems to lack grip and stability. I still managed to win the first race against some good drives but I have slipped back to 3rd now. The B3 is great and easy to drive but I'm sure that if I found a good setup then I'd be able to win the championship.
Thanks for any tips you could give me!

[LEADFOOT]

I can put XXXT wheels on my B3, so I don't see why not. Well, at least I know of the rear ones. The XXX and XXXT share common axle dimensions. The front ones I don't know about. ...


Okay, I just tried it. As long as you use the B3 bearings the Losi wheels should fit no prob!:D

[Justo]

LEADFOOT - Hey thanks for the info! That's good news!

Has anyone noticed that the allen keys they give you strip the holes in the screws too easily? Almost all my screws requiring the smaller hex drivers are stripped now.

Also, I found a couple of the holes on the underside of the chassis are not countersunk properly, leaving the screws sticking out of them to get scraped along the road.

[AssociatedRacer]

Have any of u guys seen the b3x ?
http://www.team-orion.ch/global/global_news.asp?id=1292

[EnerGie]

anyone has the B3 or B2 manual that can send it to me by e-mail
eric_vicens@hotmail.com
I triyed serching it on RC10.com but the manuals dont want to come up!
plz help

[LouisB]

TEAMLOSIRACER,
Thanx for posting the link, I like the look of those graphite shock towers. Do you think that Associated will come out with a new kit or do another upgrade package? If it's an upgrade then I'm getting it!

[AssociatedRacer]

probably both

[Obi112]

Justo: I noticed both of those things. The semi-countersunk screws don't bother me too much (well, at least not now... I bet when I rebuild the tranny and can't get them out, then I'll hate them). And I replaced my wrenches a few months after building the kit. Yes, I did strip on or two screws, but luckily that was it.

And I hope AE comes out with a B3x upgrade kit.

[RichieRich]

Try the Dynamite hex driver set. I love mine. Those little allen wrenches are junk. Although, if you really like them, you can usually find replacements at your local Ace Hardware. I think they're like 18 cents each.

Nevermind, there probably isn't Ace Hardware in Australia. :D

[AssociatedRacer]

buy a set of REAL allen wrenches, there great, they never strip. And also always tap the screw holes if u have a tapping screw taht came with a kit(i dont know about the b3, my xxx ke did...)

[b_madd]

lookin to buy a new motor for my B3. tyring to decide between the Reedy Ti Millenium 10x2 and the
Trinity P-94 10x2

[LouisB]

Trinity P94:D Somebody at my club tried one in a touring car and it put him up into the A-final when he is normally in the B. Excellent performance and low wear but the brushes are more expensive than most (and can be difficult to get hold of)
Reedy T1:D Very good torque(I believe), but I haven't tried one yet.
Orion Core:D I am currently running a Team Orion Core modified 13X2 in my FTB3. I'm a big fan of Orion motors and the Core has tons of RPM and good torque it is also very good on the comm and the brushes. After the first race day with this motor I cut the comm but left the brushes because they were in very good condition and after 6 packs of practice there was very little wear at all.
They're all good:D :D :D

[crono man]

i guess this is the perfect place to ask this newbie question...

im thinking of getting back into 2wd offroad what would guys recommend losi(xxx ke) or associated b3 FT

strong and weak points of each car... also do you think the b3 is to old to still be competitive against the newer xxx ke?

thanks again for any input
:)

[LouisB]

Both can win races with a good driver. It depends on what parts your LHS stocks.
(Associated are working on their new car but who knows when it will be produced)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

hey guys, my freind has a B3 and wants to get an aluminum battery holdown thingy...
does anyone make them?


thanx for your help

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

uhhh... TTT?

[LouisB]

I haven't seen an aluminum battery strap for sale but you might be able to make one?:confused:

[aeb3man_44]

just tell him to get the graphite one, besides whats the big deal?
It's only a battery hold down thing

[rb type r racer]

hey yall i just went down to the hobby shop and they had a factory team b3 there new i bought it and put it together the next day and that thing is awsome but when hit a jump in my back yard it wants to flip forward how could i fix this i have a back yard rc car track with pipes and a lap system cuz i have about 8 people that live next to me that have cars and we all piched in money and bought a lap counter it is awsome well talk to u later and can u give me good set ups for this

[XXXER]

crono man- The XXX KE sucks in my opinion. If I ever get another XXX, it will just be the standard kit. That graphite does not do jack squat for me. I recently switched from the XXX to the FTB3, just for fun. I have found that both cars are VERY capable of winning.

Aluminum battery strap? Looking at the shape of the stock one, I can see where an aluminum would be very costly to machine.

Nosing forward? Either lower your rear ride height, raise the front, or put a slightly stiffer spring up front. What is happening is that the front is absorbing too much of the lip of the jump, or the rear is rebounding before it hits the lip of the jump.

good setups: 30/2 front, with thin internal spacer, inside on the arm, middle on the tower. 1/4 oz. weight in the front bulkhead.
35/1 rear, second hole out on the tower, outside on the arm. Hubs spaced all the way forward. 1 washer underneath pivot block. Inisde mount on the camber link on the chassis, outer on the rear hub carrier.



That set-up is DIALED on my track, and much faster that my losi could ever run on the track. It took some work, but I feel that the AE car is definately starting to win me over.

-Steve

[rb type r racer]

hey thanks i needed it i am doing that set up right now and tomorrow i will let you know about the jump thing i also had a xxx and i can fill the difrence between them i think the b3 is way better and team associated people need to find some good people to beat matt francis and kinwald i think if kinwald and matt francis swiched over to team associated they would be alot faster i think the losis are crap but better than the kyosho i like associated cuz they have alot of puch when u give full throttle it goes crazy i like team associated more than any other brand

[FactoryTeam]

Originally posted by XXXER
crono man- The XXX KE sucks in my opinion. If I ever get another XXX, it will just be the standard kit. That graphite does not do jack squat for me. I recently switched from the XXX to the FTB3, just for fun. I have found that both cars are VERY capable of winning.

Aluminum battery strap? Looking at the shape of the stock one, I can see where an aluminum would be very costly to machine.

Nosing forward? Either lower your rear ride height, raise the front, or put a slightly stiffer spring up front. What is happening is that the front is absorbing too much of the lip of the jump, or the rear is rebounding before it hits the lip of the jump.

good setups: 30/2 front, with thin internal spacer, inside on the arm, middle on the tower. 1/4 oz. weight in the front bulkhead.
35/1 rear, second hole out on the tower, outside on the arm. Hubs spaced all the way forward. 1 washer underneath pivot block. Inisde mount on the camber link on the chassis, outer on the rear hub carrier.



That set-up is DIALED on my track, and much faster that my losi could ever run on the track. It took some work, but I feel that the AE car is definately starting to win me over.

-Steve

XXX KE and B3 FACTORY TEAM are very much worth it. So if the graphite doesnt do u any good, teh CVDS will. The Threaded shock bodies will(xxx). The Ti Buckles, Telfon bearings, and titanium nitrade shock shafts. And btw, Graphite does actually drive better...

[XXXER]

How the heck does your post have any more validation over mine? I merely stated that the Graphite does not do jack squat for ME The standard KE setup sucks too. I prefer the graphite on the Factory Team buggy, as that is what I run. I am no dork playing around in a parking lot, I have been racing for quite a while, and I have been doing RC for a good amount of time as well. Sure, the KE has all those shiny parts, who gives a crap? Once again, I merely stated what I thought on the KE car, and I prefer the standard XXX. If you would like to add any more value to this thread, then you will give YOUR view on the topic, with supporting evidence, instead of nit picking what I wrote, and claiming it false.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by FactoryTeam
Graphite does actually drive better...

Does Graphite hold the transmitter? I think not...

I have much of my -S decked out with graphite. Does it make me a better driver? No... Does it make my car lighter? Yes.. Does it make me faster as a driver? No.. Does it make a slight difference? Yes..

I may be .00001 sec per lap faster now that i have my graphite. I don't know.. and i don't care. I bought the graphite to lighten my car.. nothing else.

-Troy

[speedydave]

I miss buggies...I want to buy another B3, but this time a FTB3 so I can race something electric indoors(buggies are usually more popular indoors, and trucks outdoors). Since Steve(XXXER) was getting bashed about his opinion on here, Steve, I'd appreciate it if you could PM me some info on the XXX and the B3, as to what type of track they seemed better suited for, how they react to different things, etc. If I buy another buggy, it'll most likely be between september and november, so no big rush, but I'm also saving up for a Mugen XR, sooo..hehe. Also, what happened to your moderator status?? And where did all your posts go?

[RacingFreak]

I have some pictuers to show you all!

<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~suttichet/buggy/buggy1.jpg>
<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~suttichet/buggy/buggy2.jpg>
<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~suttichet/buggy/buggy3.jpg>

[RacingFreak]

I really love this car. It's better than XXX in any ways!!

[aeb3man_44]

thats nice, how long have you had it for?

TEAM ASSOCIATED IS THE BEST!
I love my ftb3 soo much!

[KevanB]

ummmm CAN I HAVE IT?!?! pretty please :D :D
My B3 is dead :( , i ripped the MSC out (bye bye death contraption!) and stuck in an ESC (YAY :) ) but then my turnbuckle broke (awww :( ) now i have a new turnbuckle (yay :D ) then it borke again (damit :mad: ) o well i can still have fun with my RS4 Rally , o crap thats broken too !!!

[KevanB]

hey send that into rc car action itll definatley be in the next issue!

[RacingFreak]

I will try to send them in for RC Action mag.

[Obi112]

RacingFreak: Awesome car, and excellent use of the Orion stickers. I tried using them, but the result was less than satisfactory.

NMT_RACER_BOY: I actually saw an aluminum battery strap for a B3 a while ago. I saw it for sale on E-bay, and I think it was made by Racers' Edge. Now, it is not necessarily better than a graphite strap. It may help dissapate a fractional amount of additional heat, but it is probably heavier (and much more expensive).

[XXXER]

Originally posted by speedydave
I miss buggies...I want to buy another B3, but this time a FTB3 so I can race something electric indoors(buggies are usually more popular indoors, and trucks outdoors). Since Steve(XXXER) was getting bashed about his opinion on here, Steve, I'd appreciate it if you could PM me some info on the XXX and the B3, as to what type of track they seemed better suited for, how they react to different things, etc. If I buy another buggy, it'll most likely be between september and november, so no big rush, but I'm also saving up for a Mugen XR, sooo..hehe. Also, what happened to your moderator status?? And where did all your posts go?

Like I stated, I hate the KE car. Sure, it has all of the glittery stuff, but the Graphite is what kills me. The main parts of graphite I do not like are the main chassis, and the front of the chassis (bulkhead, lower front nose piece). They CAN be made to work, but I still like the way that plastic feels. Also, the damping is waaaay off anything I ran. Build the kit from the stock XXX, and it will drive better, in my opinion. The shocks on the Losi are the best I have come by. Building them was a pleasure, and all the shocks came out the same way every time I was done building them. Another gripe on the XXX, is on the outer part of the front arms, they use very small hinge pins, and they are prone to breakage. The whole front end is waaaay too sloppy for my tastes. It chatters when pushed hard through corners. It can be shimmed, and tightened, but I still think it should hold together better than that. If my track was a little rougher, or rutted, I found the car did not handle well. It would either push or wash out, which could be helped with a little bit of dialing in, but I feel that the changes were much more drastic than those i would make on my B3.

The B3: Where do I start. It turns when you tell it to. The Stealth Tranny (Nuff said). It seems like an easier layout on the chassis, if you ask me. If linkage parts break, you do not need to replace the parts they broke into. I have not broken a single THING on this car, and I have had it for 3-4 months. The shocks are a pain in the butt to bleed, but I have learned how to do them so that they work, and come out even. The bearings in the front wheel are kind of a pain when changing front tires. The sealed bearings in the FT kit are the NICEST bearings! There is plenty on the buggy to adjust, without overwhelming you. I have just gotten this buggy dialed in to run, and the car just holds together better. My diff has not had to be adjusted, the ball cups are still tight. The shock seals have not let a speck of dirt in. My oil still comes out crystal clear (Or colored, as it may be).

Overall, I am enjoying running the B3 more than the XXX.

-Steve

[speedydave]

Wow Steve, thanks! FTB3 it is!

[Justo]

I've been jumping my B3 lately. It's handling it very nicely. I want to jump my real car soon.

Quick question, what size pinion would you guys recommend I use with my 8x3 LRP Fusion? I've got a 16t now (with stock spur), and my B3 goes psycho fast, and the motor doesn't get hot at all.
I figured I might be able to gear it up some more. Just don't want to waste money getting a few different gears.

[RacingFreak]

Does anyone use Antiroll bar on RC10B3?

[LouisB]

Most of the tracks that i run on don't have enough grip for an anti-roll bar to be useful, so I have never used one on my B3. It is only used when there is lots of grip to stop the car from swaying when cornering, unless you are rolling your car because of too much grip it would just end up over or understeering.

[RacingFreak]

So the Anti Roll Bar will make the car hard to turn?...How about this track that I attached a picture here. Do I need Anti Roll Bar for my car?

<img src=http://www.tfbraceway.com/pix/off_road_track02.jpg>

[DLF]

RacingFreak, if that's the track near Atlanta at Fernando's place, I've run a Mugen XR on that track for about 2 tanks.

Let me guess: The reason you ask is because after you go WOT down the back straight and make that slight turn to the right to make the turn, you traction roll, right? If so, I can understand why you ask.

However, before I go any further, is the statement I made correct?

Dana F

[RacingFreak]

DLF,

Seem like ou know what I'm talking about. Yes, that is Fernaldo's Track. I will try put tha Roll-Bar in and see how it works on my car...and how do you put your Transponder on the RC10B3?

[DLF]

I didn't get a chance to run my B3 on that track. I ran the Mugen just those few times. The track is real right for an 1/8 scale. I had the roll problem at that one point in the track but then realized I was staying in the gas too long for that turn anyway. It can't hurt trying a roll bar, but since that part of the track starts to go downhill, it may not be worth using one. I'd be afraid that it would cause too much loss of traction in the rest of the track.

Also, I ran the track the day after a good rain so the track was very sticky. I'm not sure how it would be in drier conditions.

Dana F

[Obi112]

There aren't many options for mounting a transponder. The easiest and most popular way is to drill a hole in the body (normally the front window) and put the transponder in there. do you own the transponder, or does the track own them? If you own it, you could just tape it (or Shoo-Goo it) somewhere on the chassis where it is out of the way. If the track owns it, you should mount it in the windshield or make a custom transponder mount (somewhere on the chassis or the rear shock tower).

[aeb3man_44]

get the transponder as close as you can to the front for the best lap times

[DLF]

I actually made a small l bracket that screws into the battery brace to hold my transponder. Works really well. All I did was solder a few pieces of brass togeather to make it.

Dana F

[Obi112]

Originally posted by aeb3man_44
get the transponder as close as you can to the front for the best lap times

But not at the expense of convenience. A few inches closer to the front is not going to help any one, unless your racing at the top-most level (I'm talking Worlds here). And lap times? Less than half a second (probably) difference between the front and the back.

[aeb3man_44]

hey whats up obi?
thats what a hobby store owner told me at a race once, just repeating!

[RacingFreak]

I ran my RC10B3 last week..amazing..much faster than LOSI XXX!! in the same set up..same motor..same battery capacity..everything..even better handlling..that's why this car have been in the top for long long time!!

[Obi112]

Originally posted by aeb3man_44
hey whats up obi?
thats what a hobby store owner told me at a race once, just repeating!

Yeah, I can't blame him for saying that, because it is true. You will get better lap times (as long as your a consistent driver), but the improvement isn't worth the trouble of putting the transponder in a weird spot.

[LouisB]

Transponder position would make no difference to lap times (unless it moved during the lap:D ) because no matter where it is, the time for the transponder to get round the track is the same. If it is in the front then the lap will start when the front passes through and finish when the front passes through again, if it's in the back then the lap will start when the back passes through and finish when the back passes through again. the only advantage of having it far forward is going to the line, on the final lap along-side another car.
I have mine in the front window, you can check if you remembered to put it in easily:p

[XXXER]

I see that your track is using the "old" AMB system. There is a new one out, with smaller transponders, that need no recharge. They run off your Battery/DSC plug. they are smaller, and the cool part, is you can get your own personal transponder, and you would be compatible EVERYWHERE you go. There are something like 7 digits, so you getting the same one as someone else is not bloody likely, if you look here, they are the small red thing on this car: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=632098

[Obi112]

Wow, that is sweet. I just hope that the system starts spreading, because I want one. How much does the transponder cost?

[XXXER]

That is another great thing about that system, is the cost of personal transponders. Before, they were something like 100 bucks, and now they are just 55 bones.

[TSR6]

What am i doing in the B3 forum? I think im lost. Steve..help me. :D

For the Transponders, $55 is not bad at all. If you order 10 at a time, they are only $50.. so if you can get your buddies together, and all buy them at the same time, you can save some cash for lunch.

The only problem with the personal transponders, is that many tracks still use the old software, and unfortunately, some of the old software is not compatible with the personal transponders.

The cool thing is, they are smaller, lighter, and you can mount them perminately anywhere you please. In front of the shock tower, where ever. If you break it, it's your's, not the track's. ;)

I don't have one, for the reason that only one, maybe two of my local tracks accually support the personal system.

-Troy

[kilrbzz]

Its been about ten years since I raced my original RC10 team kit! Then I hit high school and lost control of my hormones. So now I'm back with my newly put together B3 team kit. I'm a bit rusty on whats new and whats winning. I'm ready to outfit my car and hit the track for some practice. I need opinions from felllow B3'ers on what to go with. I'm leaning towards a Futaba Magnum Jr 2PEKA, a Novak C2, and either a P2K2 or an MVP. From what I've read the world upgrade isn't really worth it? Still looking at other mods for the car. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Again its been awhile and lots have changed from the looks of it. By the way my old RC10 still runs(albeit barely). Sounds like a great forum. Keep it up.:cool:

[gtkx80]

Hi, I have a Kyosho Ultima RB Type R and i was wondering if any of you guys know if the topshaft on you'll cars will fit in mine ?!?!?!
I'm not sure if you'll knew, but the RB and The B3 are quite similar!
Many of the parts are interchangeable and stuff like that...Thanks very very much!

Dustin

P.S. I know they are the same legnth, but if its possible, can you count the # of teeth it has ?!?!? Thanx! I wanted to get the Titanium top shaft fo it...if any of you guys have tryed that part, please tell me if you could tell/see a difference in acceleration and so forth! Thanx again

[WheelNut]

Hey, my freind is thinking about getting a B3 as his first RC car ever. Do you think this is a good choice how woudl the B3 be for a beginner vehicle? I have a T3 and I know that it woudl be pretty good, but I've never had a B3, so I dont knwo about durable and all. Plus I dont really remember being a newbies :p so i cant really vouche for it all that much....

[kilrbzz]

Is this thread dead? Well just to ramble. I outfitted my B3 with a Novak C2, matched Orion 3000 packs, and a Futaba magnum jr FM. I bought two motors, the p2k2 and the MVP. Gonna break in the p2k2 first. Going to the local track this weekend for some practice runs. :cool:

[aspiringrcracer710]

AE has made just about eveything they have into A RTR. HEY IF ANYONE FROM AE READS THIS THERE OUGHT TO BE A B3 RTR!!!

[Keyz28]

I have a t3 and have a gearing problem. What would be a good place to start with pinion and spur for a 17t double? Same question for a 27t? Thanks

[aspiringrcracer710]

If you have a gearing problem for a T3 you should ask about it in the T3 forum. This forum is for all questions related to the B3 and its varying incarnations (Basic, Sport, Team, Factory Team)

[LouisB]

Finally got back to my winning ways after qualifying 3rd in the A to win by half a lap, and still just leading the championship but am still looking into ways to reduce rotating mass for better acceleration. Is the RRP titanium top shaft good? The stock outdrives are V heavy and I'm trying to find some lighter ones but i have seen hte aluminium ones chew up, what are the other options?
One thing I've found is titanium outdrives made by titanium racing, someone who I race with is going to try some and I'll see how they wear. This company is very slow at making the parts but it could be worth the wait.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Id see if Factory Team has outdrives. Also, go ahead and get the RRP top shaft. It might help as well. BTW, do you put any weight in your B3 if so where?

[LouisB]

I will try the top shaft, but wait for the outdrives, i'll see about them later.
I didn't use any weight before, but, as I have the 7" wing and was pulling little wheelies all the way down the straight:D i'll put some under the front bulkhead.

[LEADFOOT]

Irrgang Racing services makes "pin cushions" to help reduce wear on aluminum outdrives. IRS Racing (http://www.teamirs-rc.com) :D

Also, every once in a blue moon there is a private maker Team Amoroso or something that puts al. outdrives up on ebay. Some sold for 6.50 yesterday. Keep an eye out!:cool:

[LouisB]

LEADFOOT: I've seen the pin cushions and they looke like a good idea but I've found that titanium racing has just got their new site and shop running and have ordered a titaniun top shaft and outdrives:)
The new site is sweeeeet, go to http://www.titaniumracing.com

[violator757]

ok i got my team b3 today i very happy with the deal but as soona s i turn the buggie and the raidoon the car took off with no responce to my cammand it hit a curb and broke the front a arm so im piised about the radio but im gonna go and get a new set tommorow any how im running a sped gems 9 turn (?) motor and a novak dully esc with futaba radio ger the steering servo is a 3003 and think i might need for racing i plan to start racing this saterday and help is appreated im no a elec noob just getting back into the racing scien also what are some good batts and motors to race with thanks

[JIP2587]

Ummmm.........spelling??

anyway.....the motor should have come with two or three capacitors, were these soldered on correctly? ESC's also have a motor limit, I'm not familiar with the novak so check the motor limit, your motor should not be a lower turn than the limit. Also, did you set the esc according to the instructions?? When I turned on my car and radio on for the first time the car took off (it was on my desk) and hit a wall. Take off one wheel and allow the axel to spin while you set the esc. If all else fails talk to the LHS. If they can't figure it out I would send the ESC to novak.



JIP2587

[violator757]

spelling ha no need for proper grammer as long as you get my point im not a noob also i took the car to the hobby shop they said the radio need to be retuned or it could just be plain messed up so im just gonna replace it and see if that helps also the esc is a novak dully and it dosent have a motor limit thanks for you help

[Obi112]

The pin cushions aren't worth ordering. They replace the shaft at the end of the dogbone (you have to punch it out). When I ordered them, I thought it was a rubber cover for the end of the dog bone that would provide a tight fit into the outdrive. Unfortunately, that was not the case (and I still would like to see a product like that... I think the X-Ray T1 comes with something like that).

[LEADFOOT]

hmmm.

obi, That's what I thought they were, also. I'm glad you provided the input, thanks!

[Justo]

I just installed a new Novak Fusion ESC into my Team B3. This replaces the Quantum Competition I had before. Now my buggy glitches a lot when I go about 10m out.

Has anyone noticed if different ESC's have more problems than others with glitching?

At first I thought it was the new MVP I chucked in, but I swapped back to my trusty Chrome Stock and it still happens.

I have noticed that the glitching always dies down after a while.

[LouisB]

I had a similar problem with some Mtroniks ESCs. I got a sprint 2 and it glitched badly, I sent it back and got a new one and the problem was the same, sent that back and got a sprint 3 and the glitching stopped:confused:
I tried everything to sort it out, capacitors, receiver positions, wires, motors, connections, etc, etc but nothing worked:(
i also have a quantum now, no problems with that:)
Some ESC's don't like being close to the receiver, but as it is in a B3 that shouldn't be a problem. What radio are you using?
You can stand the receiver up on it's side so that the crystal is facing outwards and at the top, this has been known to help.
Check the receiver connections and make sure that the power wires are not touching the receiver or ariel

[Justo]

I am using a JR XR3. I will try the receiver on its side.

[Justo]

Can anyone help me with my setup?

I want to jump my buggy. Currently I use 70wt oil in the rear 30wt up front. I have the ride hight a little higher on the front.
I didn't want my rear end to bottom out as it hits the jump, that's why I used such heavy weight. This works for jumping of grass and pavement.

Any ideas how to setup the buggy so it can handle limestone tracks (very slippery), and still not bottom out?

[LouisB]

You need soft suspension to hook up slippery tracks, but this means lower ride hight and more bottoming out.
You could try soft springs for grip and a high ride hight or stiffer springs and a lower ride hight.
You have to choose between good grip and performance or bottoming out. My local track has loads of large jumps and is quite slippery, but I use 20wt oil and soft black springs to get grip on the track. It means that I bottom out, but i would rather sacrifice the anodizing on the transmission plate than having poor grip. I find that bottoming out does very little damage (I also find on my track that landing off jumps on power helps)

The best thing is to have one setup for the track and another for bashing:)

[kilrbzz]

Raced my B3 last friday and saturday. CVD's popped out six times. I tried putting spacers in the shocks, bringing the turnbuckles both in and out to the max, putting small washers on the inside of the shaft. All this only bought me a little more time before it popped out again. Have I assembled something wrong? I'm ready to take apart the diff and reassemble it. Primarily its been the left side thats popped out. The last time it popped it put a small chip on the left dif. I'm not sure if its big enough to matter, its also on back part where it would connect if I used reverse. Someone told me a friend of theres used Losi CVD's as they are slightly longer and fit better.? Hopefully I will find a problem in the diff. Any suggestions? Thanks :cool:

[LouisB]

Different shock positions? (moving out on the tower and the arms)
It may alter your set-up but it's better than not finishing. That has been a problem on the B3, it could have been designed better:(
I haven't tried the Losi shafts, but it could be a good idea

[DLF]

Ya know, on mine all I did was remove one or two of the shims (can't remember how many) from the outside of the spindle and moved them to the inside. Now, the only time mine pop out is on a real bad landing from a pretty high jump. The point is, they don't pop out as much. When they do, they almost always take a chuck out of the outdrive. However, that's ok with me since they do not pop out very often anymore.

Dana F

[danbrad2000]

are asociated buggys better than losi buggys and reasons why.


Thanks
Dan

[automobiliben]

Anyone have any info. on this car or maybe even some pictures? Saw that it didn't do too bad at the Worlds.

[LouisB]

There's not much difference, you can win with both, if you drive well. Get the one that you can get spares for quickly. The associated is meant to be a little stronger, but you can still break it and the Losi is more adjustable, but is harder to dial in.

One buggy is not better than the other :)

[LouisB]

go here (http://www.team-orion.ch/global/global_news.asp?id=1292)
The B3X came 5th and 7th at the worlds, driven by Mark and Billy, but they were beaten by Niel Cragg who came 3rd with the standard B3! (albeit with a longer chassis)

[kilrbzz]

Thanks for the advice guys. When I went to take apart the diff I found that my rear chassis suspension mount was slightly cracked thus giving way to the CVD popping out. At least it saved me from taking apart my diff!

While I'm here anyone had any experience running Ti mod motors from associated?

Dan - Agree with Louis neither is better than the other. I've had three RC10's (Two original, a new B3, and soon a T3) Raced all of them and it always came down to the driver winning the race. But its kind of a Ford and Chevy thing. You'll never see me own a Losi!:cool:

[mtn bkr]

I took a quick look at the car Associated ran at the Worlds a little while back. It wasn't really that much different from the B3. It had a slightly longer chassis and some changes to the front and rear suspension. I heard they're trying to make it more stable.

[Keyz28]

How much longer was the chassis Cragg used, anyone know? Didn't the b3 come in diff lengths at one time? Also I need a pair of bones and outdrives or universals or cvd's for a b3. I'm working on a theory and want to try something. As soon as I get some parts and try it I'll post the results. I'll buy or trade something for them. Lmk what you have Keyz28@showme.net

[Obi112]

There are three different lengths of the B3 chassis. There is the short, the regular, and the long (I think those are the correct names). The kit comes with the regular chassis, so if you want a different size, you'll have to shell out the extra dough.

[nelson8708]

Me and a friend go racing every once in a while( every sunday ). He was talking about how his Kinwald Edition is better than my Factory Team B3( Ha Ha Ha ). I had just bought the buggy and never driven one. The first heat was intresting to me because they drive differently compared to trucks. In the main I was ready and so was he. Right off the line he gave me some wheel. Man did he live to regret it. Then on the first turn I returned the favor and knocked him right off the track. Torward the middle if the race my antena tube fell out and i ran down to repair it. He had caught up so we battled for the rest of the main. On the last lap we both cased the triple jump. It must have knocked loose his weld because the weld on his motor gave out on the last corner. I won the race, but I would of liked to seen what would have happened If he kept going. I can tell you this much it would have been close.

[LouisB]

I like beating the Losis at my track too:D :D

[aspiringrcracer710]

The B3X just won the European 2WD Offroad Championship!

[LouisB]

Who was driving it?

[LouisB]

OK, Neil Cragg (the UK guys must have finally got the new car)
400 posts:)

[nelson8708]

Any one know the difference between the Factory Team B3 and the B3X? The only thing that I can tell is different is the parts a little bit like a carbon-fiber rear shock tower. I think that B3X stands for B3 extreme or a custom type.

[nelson8708]

I am running a 81 tooth spur gear. What pinoin should i be running?

[LouisB]

The B3X has new shock towers, new front suspension arms and new hub carriers. This means that the wheelbase is longer when using the standard chassis. I think there are different/more shock mounting positions. + NO MORE PIANO WIRE!! The wing is attached on the back of the tower with little feet (like the Losi)

what motor do you have? (any what type of track, tight or open)

[nelson8708]

I have the P2K2 pro and the track is tight but has a long back stright

[LouisB]

The manual says to start with a 24 tooth pinion, I don't race stock but the mod motor guidelines are good for my track (twisty with a long straight) I would go with the 24 tooth to start with or ask other racers what gearing they are using. If you see that you have slower acceleration than everyone else then go down a tooth on the pinion, if they beat you on the straight then gear up a tooth.

[kilrbzz]

Is changing springs even worth it? I've never messed with changing mine. Moving the adjusters has done fine for me. But am I missing something by not changing? Should I use stiffer springs for tracks with smaller jumps or larger ones? Just curious :cool:

[LouisB]

I change to a softer spring when I need more grip, the stiffer springs help to reduce roll on high grip tracks. I just change oil and ride height mostly, depending on the size of the jumps. I've found that on rutted tracks, changing from silver to green or black at the back improves the handling a lot (doesn't bounce + soaks up the bumps better)

[Poolboy51]

What advantages does the FTB3 have over other buggies, such as the XXX Kinwald ed.? Where does it fall short? Im not sure which one I want to get yet. Thanks for any help

[LouisB]

Poolboy, the FTB3 and XXX KE are very similar, both are very quick and great for racing. I got the B3 b/c I could get spares quickly, get the one that your LHS stocks most parts for. The B3 is a little bit stonger than the XXX and has a very good stock set-up, the XXX is more tunable but harder to dial in:)
If you drive well you will win (with a XXX or B3)
Good luck

[aeb3man_44]

hey guys

I am thinking about getting green shocks for the rear does it make a big differece? will the back hang down more? help me out

thanks:D

[LouisB]

Green springs? You will get more grip, more body roll and bottom out more easily (can be fixed with pre-load spacers)

[kilrbzz]

Hey Louis,
Do you know the color order from soft to stiff? Is green the softest? Thought about ordering a complete set if it is worth it. Or should I just get the blue and green?:cool:

[LouisB]

Buggy and Truck Rear Springs
6481 Black 1.740 lb.
6480 Green 1.900 lb.
6478 Silver 2.100 lb.
7434 Blue 2.550 lb.
7435 Gold 2.750 lb.
7436 Red 3.030 lb.

Buggy Front Springs
8232 Black 3.200 lb.
6494 Green 3.500 lb.
6496 Silver 3.850 lb.
6497 Blue 4.200 lb.

I don't think the sets include all of the springs

[pudder]

Hey guys, since I help out in the T3 thread I may as well be here too. I have a FT T3 incase you wonder...

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC01244.JPG

[violator757]

sweet ride i wish i hadnet sold my t3 i sold it on ebay because i thgout i cought the nitro bug for ever now im raceing my b3 and i just bash my gt lol oh well i got a rcae inthe morning ill le tyall know how i do lol im probably gonna do bad but well se this is my first race in about 3 years lol cya

[kilrbzz]

Thanks for clearing up my spring issue Louis.

Had great time racing tonight! Raced Mods with my B3 for the first time. Ran my new Reedy 10x2 WOW! I clearly had the fastest car on the track. Problem was I couldn't handle it until the last heat came around. Can't wait till next time!

Also ran stock with my old rc10. Still a great car with the right setup and upgrades.:cool:

[Poolboy51]

is that a FT? Judging by the stickers on it, it looks like it has alot of money in it. Or maybe you got a hole of the LHS sticker bin. ;) :p

I'm pretty much sold on the B3FT but I need to wait till my dad gets back form CO till I can buy it. We also might go down the the track to make sure the B3 is the right choice.

[pudder]

Lots of money in RPM parts, I have all of them I think except the shock spacers and front bumper (since I made my own aluminum one) :)

I don't realy think I have spent too much money on it, I already had the JR stickers from the hobby shop at the track, they gave me like 3 sheets, Novak ones are from Shottkey diodes (has novak esc too) Progressive suspension I got free from the track's hobby shop too, RPM ones are from buying parts, and Pro-line and Chevy ones were with the body. :)

In the future I am planning on getting titanium topshaft, titanium ballstuds, high speed/torque servo. :)

[LouisB]

I put the titanium racing top-shaft in my FTB3:) I gained so much acceleration that I geared up a tooth for the same acceleration as before but much more more top speed. The titanium outdrives are on their way, the stock ones are way too heavy.
You'd think with all my titanium tranny mods I'd be racing stock, no, modified all the way:D

[violator757]

haha i had a very fun day of racing today kinda well the first race i placed 5 outta 8 lol but i think thats good for have the car not tuned or dialed in very well then the second race i placed 3 then in the a thir race i blew my futaba 3003 servo lol so i was trying to replace the gear and found out i had sripped more than one gear so i missed the a-main but thats because i didnt wannt to rush and get the servo setup plus i dint have enought time but other thn that it was great and i got some help fo people at the track they are realy helpfull and this guy gave me two batts he had for free i m gonna get some softer springs for the back because i dint have the traction i wanted but it got the job done i crashed more in practice then raceing lol

[pudder]

Originally posted by LouisB
I put the titanium racing top-shaft in my FTB3:) I gained so much acceleration that I geared up a tooth for the same acceleration as before but much more more top speed. The titanium outdrives are on their way, the stock ones are way too heavy.
You'd think with all my titanium tranny mods I'd be racing stock, no, modified all the way:D

That is awsome man, that is next up on my hopup list for my T3. Who makes the titanium outdrives? I know robinson makes ******* topshafts, not bad, 20$ at my track.

[LouisB]

pudder, it's a UK company called Titanium Racing nice site (http://titaniumracing.com) the top-shaft only took a couple of days to come but I'm still waiting for the outdrives, they probably haven't made them yet:rolleyes:
I have some RPM stuff on my B3 too, gear cover, spring cups and rear sus. mounts:)
The prices are fairly high but the products are very well made. They also do CVDs, screw kits, ball studs, turnbuckles, hinge-pins etc

[pudder]

Sounds pretty cool! I wonder what those prices would be over here. I can't get anything now though since I blew all of my rc funds on a vintage buggy. :rolleyes:

[LouisB]

Schumacher started importing their pinions to the US so they may sell more parts in the future. You may be able to order direct.

[StevePond]

Testing

[StevePond]

This thread appears to be working properly now. Thanks for letting me know. :D

[aeb3man_44]

Hey guys!

I got Pro-line step pin m2 tires for my b3 and it is amazing on the grass! I had it running in my grass with a 14x3 motor and 72/24 gearing, it popped wheelies no problem, my dogs were chasing it and didn't get close at all.

The b3 is fun period.

-Anthony

[LouisB]

Yeah, step-pins are great on grass, I use some old Pro-line step-pin plus tires, I got them for $4 a pair (they don't make them any more) and they are amazing on grass.

Does anyone want a killer set-up for loose dirt tracks? (I got TQ by 2 laps!!!!! in mod buggy)

[LouisB]

Yeah, step-pins are great on grass, I use some old Pro-line step-pin plus tires, I got them for $4 a pair (they don't make them any more) and they are amazing on grass.

I chase dogs with my cars too, or rather the dogs chase me :)
They don't stand a chance against my b3, and get tired really quickly trying to chase my T-Maxx across the beach

Does anyone want a killer set-up for loose dirt tracks? (I got TQ by 2 laps!!!!! in mod buggy)

[danbrad2000]

b3 factory team vs xxx kinwald and reasons why.

[mtn bkr]

Which car is best for you depends on your driving style. I have both a B3 and a XXX KE, and I prefer the B3 because it has more of an agressive feel to it. I've raced both cars and like the agressive steering of the B3. That same steering characteristic can make the car feel twitchy at times though. With my XXX, it's easier to drive but doesn't corner nearly as well as my B3 does. If you're having an off-day, the XXX lets you get away with it. If you're having an on-day, the B3 will rip off some killer lap times. Each car definitely has it's strengths and weaknesses.

[Justo]

I'm trying to sort out my B3 to make it an ultimate bashing machine.

Need some recomendations on tyres and motors.

Tyres - Ideally, I'd want a set of tyres for grass/road, and a set for loose limestone.

Motor - I currently have a couple stock motors and an 8x3. I want something that will give me more speed than my stock motors but still give me decent runtimes. I know that sounds vague, sorry. What is everyone running?

ANy other thoughts are welcome.

[LouisB]

A motor between 13 and 15 turns would be about right, u may have to gear it down when running on grass b/c it puts a high load on the motor.

Go here (http://www.pro-lineracing.com) and have a look for buggy tires, for onroad I'd go for road hawgs,step-pins for grass and something else for limestone ;) try and get the Step-pins in M2 compound as they'll last longer, they may also work well on limestone. There aren't many basher buggy tires, but there are for trucks. If you want to you can mount T3 rear wheels on your B3 (I haven't done this but someone else might have, I put rustler wheels on mine) and ahave a bigger selection of bashing tires (you will have to gear down quite a bit)

[Justo]

Is there any way I way I can convert my B3 into a T3? I wouldn't think there'd be much difference?!? If I just got T3 arms, tie rods, cvd's and wheels, wouldn't I have a rough estimate of a T3?

[LouisB]

The T3 chassis is longer, you'd also need shock towers. If I were you I wouldn't bother spending money on all these parts, the B3 is a great basher as it is, if you want a truck buy one:)

[kilrbzz]

What weight is everybody running on a tracks with average jumps that is slightly rutted? Is thirty too high? I am still trying to dial the suspension in on my car. Sometimes I tend to nose off the jumps. Any recommendations? Thanks:cool:

[LouisB]

You could raise the front ride height slightly, or give it more gas through the air (also makes it land better)

What springs do you have on it? If it's rutted I'd start with greens all round

Are your tires keeping contact with the ground or are they slow to react causing the car to bounce around? If the tires aren't in contact with the ground you won't be getting any power down, if this is hte case I would go for about 20-25 in the rear and 25-30 up front:)

I can post a good set-up for rutted tracks if u want

[LouisB]

Looks like I won't have the Titanium outdrives for about 2 weeks now:( but b/c titanium racing kept me waiting so long they're sending me a Ti pinion for free:)

[AssociatedRacer]

justo what kind of b3 do u have?

[kilrbzz]

I race two local tracks. Both totally opposite styles. The first is a short course thats very bumpy with moderate jumps and a short straight away. The other is a large track that is very technical with elevation changes. I seem to either bounce abit too much on the bumpy course and seem to have poor traction on the smooth tech course. I'm running green front and silver back with 30 weight all around on a team edition B3. I have ran with fuzzies, step pins and bow ties. So I don't think its the tires. I also seemed to have the diff and slipper close to being set after a bit of trial and error. Seems I had the slppier to tight to start with.

PS Louis Keep us updated on how the titanium additions go!:cool:

[violator757]

kilrbzz you might want to try seom green spring inthe rear i find my silver spring to be a little to stiff on my track and its like the first one you described give it a try and let us know what happens it should give you a lil more grip also are you using spacers with the silver springs that might be a prob also

[LouisB]

kilrbzz: I agree with violator757 green springs would help. 30wt oil sounds close on the smoother open track but I would go for something around 20wt-25wt on the bumpy track. Loosening the slipper a little would help you get the power down:)

If u want to try it here's a good bumpy track set-up:
It's basically as in the manual with a few changes,

Front 20wt oil, green spring, -2deg. camber, 1deg. toe in

Back 20wt oil, green spring, camber link in shortest position, shocks leaned in max (out on arm inside on tower), about -2 deg. camber, a little more for greater stabillity round corners or less for more traction, ride-height: arms just below level
(one very small spacer inside rear shocks so as not to damage the outdrives)

Short wheelbase, battery back
I was running a Quantum Competition ESC, Futaba PCM radio+receiver, Hitec 625 servo, orion Core modified 13x2 motor with 22 tooth pinion and whatever spur comes with it powered by a mix of orion and integy 2400s and an old pack of 3000H

[DLF]

Just wondering. Does anyone else consider the B3 to inhibit a fairly sever push? I've been living with it but have decided that the push just seems to be too much. I've actually conphensated some of it by putting spiked tires on the front. It helps, but it just doesn't seem right that that would need to be required. I've been racing a long time and don't ever recall driving a car that had a push like the B3. I don't think the old tub RC10 pushed this much. Comments?

Dana F

[pudder]

If you have to much push, try putting some lead weights under the bulkhead, I know that is what some guys do at the local track here, also try putting your battery pack closest position to the front, and maybe your setup could be part of the problem, but I couldnt say.

[DLF]

Well, I have done various setup changes...all have helped. But all in all, it seems to have a push by design. To me, it seems very dfficult and in some cases, impossible to sling the rear end around going into corners. The rear simply has that much more bite than the front. I haven't yet moved the battery forward or put weight in the front. The main reason is that my track has some pretty steep jumps. The approach on most of them require having a real good setup or you'll have an uncontollable landing (IE, landing on your roof). I was hoping the messing with the suspension would help. However, I think weight distrubution changes is what I'll have to resort to.

Still, does anyone think the B3 pushes more than other cars? Or is it just me?

BTW, thanks for the advice pudder. :)

Dana F

[XXXER]

DLF: You have obviously never been cursed with driving a Losi. Push-o-mania. The B3 is a very precise car. If you want the rear end to whip around, make the camber link shorter. I run mine generally long, because I find it gets a little too excited when shortened. Also, is your car pushing at low/high speeds? At slower speeds, put your shock in an inner position on the top. If it is high-speed steering you are after, then put it outside on the tower. If you move it to the inner on the arm, you will also get a little more high speed steering. You may, depending on what hole you are running up top, need to run a spacer. Is your damping too thick up front? Is the front end rolling into the corner much? On a high speed sweeper, watch the front of your car, and the angle of the chassis. does it move much? A lot, a little? If it is a lot, then you need to run a stiffer set-up up front, and if not enough, try a lighter set-up (lighter spring/oil/both).
You could also try putting more washers under the rear suspension arm mount. More washers = loss of forward bite, gain in side bite. (Under power, your car will have more steering).

Good luck!

-Steve

[ttweedle]

Well the wait for the B4 is over! Go check out the new products Forum! WooHoo!

[kilrbzz]

Thanks Louis and Violater! That setup helped alot. Enough to take third in stock. I still bounce abit down the straights though. Do you use spring spacers in that setup? I did. Also I have been messing with my slipper and diff experimenting with differ settings. Any advise. I feel like I have the slipper way to loose according to the manuals but it is much more managable. Is this wrong? Could I be compensating for something else thats wrong? How much should I vary from the original settings?

I bought a second B3ft on ebay last night so to use seperate cars for stock and mod, also it came with lots of extra parts. I think this will help me dial in my cars better instead of changing engines and adjusting the tranny for each engine. First time I bought anything there, hope its all legit.

Tweedle- Haha I assume that was a joke. Couldn't find anything at new products or rc10.com Stop getting my hopes up. The B4 is way overdue!

[LouisB]

I'm glad the set-up worked, it's been great for me in loose but not completely gripless conditions.

Yes I used spacers, I put enough in so that when the pack's in the axles are level and the front arms are level, as in the manual.

I run my slipper looser than normal, the nut nearly fell off the top-shaft! Now I have the titanium racing top-shaft which has about 1cm longer threaded part on the shaft than stock I can run the slipper looser than ever before, very useful when the track has less grip htan an ice rink;) Run it as loose as you need to
:)

2 FTB3s, can't be bad :)

The mod buggy championship finished on Sunday:( I went into the final round in first place tied on points with another driver, but the 2 worst results are dropped which meant I had to win the race to win the championship. The weather was really hot and the track was like sand, my car wasn't hoockd up. I tried flat fuzzies, IFMAR studs and bow-ties but I couldn't get any grip. I managed to qualify in 3rd place (better than the car was going) but after some appaling marshalling (I know it was my fault for crashing in the first place, but it helps if the marshall actually sees the car:rolleyes: ) I finished 5th and that meant that i came second in the championship. Not bad conidering the person that won was a veteran buggy driver and I'm 15 and got my B3 (my first buggy) a week before the beginning of the championship:D
I'll kick his a$$ next year (I hope)

[JIP2587]

hey, congrats on 2nd, its better than i would have done:cool:

JIP2587

[LouisB]

Thanks JIP2587, All you have to do is practice and you get much quicker. I seem to be doing alright with racing at the moment:) I got the fastest lap in a round of mod touring cars, I got my Pro-10 dialed in (finished 6th in the championship) last Thursday. Yesterday I got 5th in the nitro truck A final with my RB powered T-Maxx!!! I was the only T-Maxx in the A and beat a couple of XXX-NTs:D
I've also been offered a 12th scale Corally for about $70, including servo and motor. I don't think I'll get bored over the winter;)

[pudder]

Good Job louis! You should have tried some losi step pins

[LouisB]

I don't know if I can get Losi step-pins, my LHS only stocks Pro-Line ones. I have a spare set of wheels so I'll see if they can order some for me. I know that some of hte 4WDs use them.

[pudder]

The losi just have better nubs and rubber than the pro-line ones, I'm sure the pro-line ones wuld work fine too.

[kilrbzz]

Where do bow ties fit into in the tire category? I assume if your fuzzies aren't biting in enough to a looser or firmer track? Are step pins similar to fuzzies? I'm still learning to match tires to tracks.

Congrats Louis on a fine finish taking the silver is great! I wish my track had a point series championship. Its seems your into several areas of R/C. How do you find comparing racing nitro and electric? How big of a difference has the titanium shaft made on acceleration? Did you receive your outdrives yet?

Take it easy and good racing!
:cool:

[pudder]

I know there are a few tire charts out there, but this is just from my personal knowledge:

bowties-hard packed, blue groove tracks
step pins-loose fluffy dirt, very dry dusty dirt

Any other race tires are mostly for hard packed blue groove tracks.

[LouisB]

My local track has very changable conditions. Fuzzies might work one round and bow-ties the next. The biggest factor is the weather, particularly if it rained the night before or not. I find that when it's muddy tires with spikes spaced out a lot work well, like Losi IFMAR studs, you can also use small spikes like fuzzies, holeshots and IFMAR pins to reduce the amount of mud sticking and therefore improve acceleration. I think that Bow-ties are good all-round tires and are good when the ground is medium-packed, loose or damp. I also have some old-style step-pin plus tires which are good when it goes loose and sandy.

kilrbzz: I like the length of gas mains but not the stalling and having to tune the engines, the noise is a bonus:)
I like the precision of electric and the skill required to carefully control the throttle. Electrics allow very closely matched races but don't last as long.
I like all types of racing :D

The titanium top-shaft improved acceleration and would be especially noticalbe in stock racing, it will also wear less (not sure)

No outdrives as yet but i live in hope

I got my best result ever in mod touring car today, 3rd in the A final with my XXX-S:D

[pudder]

I am going to get the titanium topshaft for my t3 next, it is only 20$ or something at the track. the track here also has varying conditions, at first they water the crap out of it, so it is muddy for the nitro, by the time electrics are out is is just nice, a bit loose, after the first race you can see the line the drivers take, and by the end of the day it is dry, cracked, hard pack dusty/dry in the drivers line, and loose and dry on the sides, I have tried bowties before and they were horrible, all I did was spin, but it was fun and I still won my race somehow.

[LouisB]

Bow-ties are odd, they aren't the perfect tire for one single condition, but more an alright choice for most conditions. Some people at the track swear by them, and others swear at them;) (I do both)

[Justo]

Originally posted by TEAMLOSIRACER
justo what kind of b3 do u have?

I have a Team B3. I couldn't justify the extra cost for (what seem like) cosmetic upgrades. I did however get the titanium turnbuckles and front graphite shock tower.

[LouisB]

I would have got the Team version but I liked the blue bits on the Factory Team:D and the titanium turnbuckles and unobtanium shock shafts.

My next race is on carpet at a bowls centre (crazy idea for a wet weather venue) has anyone ever raced on carpet???
I may set-up my B3 for carpet or have it as a spare car for the proper dirt track when the Factory Team B4 comes out:D :D :D

[pudder]

I raced carpet with my Evader ST last winter, buggies would be a bit mor tricky because of their narrow stance, I bet the new b4 would kick ass on carpet though, I am planning on getting one in about a year. If you need any help, PM me or post here and I could try to help you! :)

[LouisB]

pudder: what sort of springs, oil were you running on your Evader?(stiff/soft, heavy/light type of thing:) ) It will be flat apart from a couple of small jumps and quite tight. I have to use rubber tires but I don't know what type to go for, small spikes?? What tires did you use up front? I (and quite a few people at the track) don't think it will be a good idea to race on carpet because 1) we'll only find out we're racing inside in the morning 1 hour before we race giving no time to change set-up 2) The racing will take place on an indoor bowls carpet and you aren't even allowed to stand on it without special shoes so a load of buggies and trucks would really do some damage:(
Thanks for any help with the set-up:) Do you think racing on this carpet sounds like a good idea??

[pudder]

I say go for it, it would be fun. Small spikes would hook up best, but I'm sure you;d get booted out of there if your buggy toutched track with spikes. It sounds as though rubbers are your only choice. If you could get your hands on some good road tires that would be best, but using soft rubber slicks and using traction compound on them (if allowed) would be best. Those rules sound stupid though, no steping on it, no foam tires, quite odd.

Well on a regular crapet track (for like 1/12's and tc's (what I raced on)) I ran with soft springs, had it sitting very low for best grip, thick oil (50-80 would probably work best) but it is hard to tell what to run in your case, but these tips may help somewhat.

[fatstocker19]

rc car

[LouisB]

pudder: The rules are for the dirt track so we aren't allowed foams (why would you want to run foams on dirt anyway??) and there isn't really time to buy new tires (slow LHS)
I will change the oil and put soft springs on and see how it goes:)

[pudder]

Oh sorry, I misunderstood and thought you were racing on carpet! Well if they allow it, go for some small spikes I guess, maybe bowties or some other small pin tires.

[LouisB]

Pudder: you were right the first time, the race will be on carpet. It's just that the rules were written for when we only raced on dirt, sorry if it confused you (the carpet track is for when it's raining and we can't race outside)
There will be a practice meeting on carpet this sunday before the new buggy season starts. I also spoke to my Grandad who goes to the bowls club and he said that they never used the 2 end lanes and that they would be replaced eventually so it wouldn't matter if they were damaged:)

[LouisB]

I raced on carpet this morning, it wasn't going too well:( I didn't change the oil becasue I wouldn't have time to do that if it had been raining and the venue changed. I couldn't get any steering, I moved the battery forward, lowered the front, had toe out, fiddled with camber etc but nothing worked. I still qualified 4th but I was a long way behind the top 3. In the final I was going alright, still very little steering, but then the nut that held my left front shock on fell off! It actually made my car handle better, I had much more steering but the jumps were a little tricky:)
I think I prefer dirt to carpet;)

[pudder]

What kind of tires are you using? In the case of foams, if you don't have enough traction, put some traction on the whole surface of the rear tire, and the two sides of the front, but well onto the surface. If you are running rubber tires (sorry I forgot about your rules there) well that is probaly your problem, rubber tires and carpet SUCK, all they do is slip. My buddy I race with has a T3 and last year in carpet he had to start with rubber slicks because he didn't have money for foams, all he did was slide around, even with insane amounts of traction compound.

Oh yes, I am racing today too. I don't know if I will race my T3 or RC10 graphite buggy. I need to take it easy though, I just am getting over some illness, flu or something.

[LouisB]

I was running rubber. At the front stock tires (that would be the problem) and at the back, fuzzies (too much grip) IFMAR pins (way too much grip) and IFMAR studs (a little too much grip). I was getting massive grip the back and just pushed everywhere:eek: I will pick up some spiked front tires for when I race there again, that should sort it out:)
I was taking it easy too, it was only a practice meeting and I got up 5 mins before I had to leave for the track;)
BTW We're not allowed to use traction compound, I also tried out my new 12th scale car:)

[pudder]

That is weird no foams, that is what is best on carpet too, oh well. :confused:

[LouisB]

Originally posted by pudder
That is weird no foams, that is what is best on carpet too, oh well. :confused:

Yeah, it is a little strange that there's a "no foams" rule for dirt, b/c nobody would ever run them unless they had something seriously wrong with them:) It was the first ever buggy race on carpet and it is unlikely that there will be many more there (if the weather stays good) so I think it could be a good idea to keep the costs down, it would be a waste of money to get foams for only a couple of races a year and only some people would get them. Spikes font and back seem to work well (grip roll)

[kilrbzz]

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone here for getting my B3's going good. Won my first stock class race since my first RC go around about 12 years ago. Even though the top two qualifiers had some problems in the main. I'll still take it!

Also wanted to tell everyone about some plans of mine. I travel nine states in the southeast U.S. for a living. Now that I'm back racing again I'm going to take my cars with me. I've looked up track directories on RCCARACTION's site. I hope to visit a new track each weekend for the duration of my 18 week trip. If anyone has a track they recommend, any suggestions, or just want to hear how it goes. Let me know. I thought about taking pics and posting updates.:cool:

Hopefully I won't have to race on carpet!!

[aspiringrcracer710]

Originally posted by kilrbzz
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone here for getting my B3's going good. Won my first stock class race since my first RC go around about 12 years ago. Even though the top two qualifiers had some problems in the main. I'll still take it!

Also wanted to tell everyone about some plans of mine. I travel nine states in the southeast U.S. for a living. Now that I'm back racing again I'm going to take my cars with me. I've looked up track